APRIL, 1912 PRICE 20 CENTS A COPY $2.00 A YEAR

VOL. III. HONOLULU, TERRITORY OF HAWAII NO. 4.

The Mid-Pacific Magazine CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD HOWARD M. BALLOU, Associate Editor VOLUME III NUMBER 4

CONTENTS FOR APRIL, 1912.

1 EASTER AND THE CHERRY FESTIVAL By Fritz Williams 303 A WOMAN'S ASCENT OF MAUNA LOA By Margaret Howard 311 Ils,IDUSTRIAL NEW ZEALAND By H. F. Alexander 319 TRAMPING ON MOLOKAI By Kimu Kokua 327 SOLVING THE IRRIGATION PROBLEM IN AUSTRALIA By Niel Nielsen 337 THE STORY OF RICE IN HAWAII By W. A. Cross 345 AFTER BIG GAME IN MANCHURIA By A. H. Ford 353 CHURCH LIFE IN THE SOUTH SEAS By Hugh M. Polwarth 363 THE LEGENDARY ORIGIN OF KAPA By W. D. Westervelt 371 TO MEXICO CITY BY SEA AND RAIL By A. J. Van Coover 379 PACIFIC PERSONALITIES— HON. J. VERRAN 389 GEN. PORFIRIO DIAZ 391 MADAME MELBA 393 DR. JOHN S. MCGREW 395 EDITORIAL COMMENT 396 GUIDE BOOK AND ENCYCLOPEDIA

The Mid-Pacific Magazine Published monthly by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions, $2.00 in advance. Printed by .the Hawaiian Gazette Co., Ltd. Canada and Mexico, $2.50. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copy, 20c. Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffice. Permission is given to the Press to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine when credit is given. Copyright 1912 by Alexander Hume Ford.

1—M. P.

1

Easter Leis—Hcnolulu. I the MID-PACIFIC MAGAZINE VOL. 3 APRIL, 1 9 1 2 No. 4.

The Taro Man—Hawaii. Easter and the Cherry Festival

BY FRITZ WILLIAMS

Having in my travels westward to the in words. Sufficient to say that it is the Far East spent Easter Sunday the same only land I have ever visited in which I year in three different countries, thou- found not a single jarring note to disap- sands of miles apart, I know that this point expectation. Hundreds of whites seeming miracle is sometimes possible and natives awaited the arrival of the of accomplishment. steamer, and as the passengers stepped Six days out from San Francisco on ashore they were one and all garlanded the S. S. "China" we sighted the Ha- with ropes of multi-colored flowers. It waiian Islands on Easter eve, remaining seemed like gilding refined gold to deco- in the harbor of Honolulu over Sunday. rate with flowers the churches of Ho- Mark Twain' has pleaded mental inability nolulu, yet it was done, and such a per- to describe the beauties of Hawaiian fume had been cast upon the unobtru- scenery, even when there were no Easter sive violet that the little purple flower decorations to inspire him. I 'shall not seemed lost in its surroundings, while attempt to paint this Garden of Eden the white Easter lily of pungent odor 303 304 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Under the Cherry Blossoms. THE MID-PACIFIC. 305 and glorious petals held full sway. One Twelve days later we steamed into the hurried glance at the churches and my harbor of Yokohama, Japan. The an- Easter was spent far beyond Punchbowl nual cherry festival was about to begin. Hill, among the natives in their huts. I Every man, woman and child in the is- wished to eat a meal of native taro. Al- lands had deserted all tasks to glorify though it was Sunday, and the native the resurrection of the flowers after six Hawaiian shirks work if he can on any months of death. It was their Easter. day of the week, I was fortunate in find- The Hawaiian Islands are delectable ; ing a small boy and a man of thirty Japan is more, it is an animated paradise. plowing a scant half acre plot of mud- In Honolulu trees and shrubs were ruth- land with an axe—it was their spade, lessly robbed to bring the branches of rake and harvester. I learned that this blossoms to the stranger, in Japan every generous bit of soil yielded enough for one went to see the cherry trees, but the tickling to supply the man's family none touched a petal ; they merely wor- with food, and what more could they shipped nature, and were happy. In Ho- want, in the Hawaiian Islands? I had nolulu the two-wheeled baby carriage heard in Honolulu that the natives do or jinrikisha in which I rode from the not raise taro ; the Chinamen do that, wharf to the temples would have been and certainly on numerous signposts I wreathed in flowers and an effect spoil- read—or at least saw—in Chinese, Port- ed. As my rikisha man sped along we uguese, Hawaiian and English, notices left the European quarter far behind. to the effect that anyone molesting taro I could see that later, or not at all ; I roots would be prosecuted. Yet the na- was indifferent on that point. Soon we tives thrive, and they eat taro, too. I passed beneath a bronze torea, or pair was served with a bountiful dish in one of glorified gate posts supporting a of the native huts. My mouth watered slightly curved crossbeam. Beyond was as the purple root was boiled to neutral- the real Japan ; from the torea to the ize the deadly poison it contains, but temple, half a mile farther on, the road- what was my disgust on partaking of way was lined with cherry trees. Over- the first mouthful to discover that it was head a feathered archway of most deli- an old friend common to every negro's cate pink, fluffy clouds showered down table, in our far southern states, under with every changing breeze a gentle the name of tania. This and the fact snow storm of pink petals, until the that I afterward saw Chinamen tramp- ground beneath, an inch deep in the ing on the boiled roots in great wooden fallen blossoms, silenced the footfalls of troughs to make poi for the natives, the hundreds hurrying on the temple reconciled me to leave the paradise just grounds. Not in any other land is there back of Honolulu and return to the such 'an Easter. From a side street rang "China" in time to see the magnificent the joyous cries of a thousand happy liner in process of decoration from stem children. Robed in blue and white ki- to stern with ropes and wreaths of flow- monos, made solely for this occasion, ers and her rigging transformed to they, too, marched beneath perfumed multi-hued streamers by the enthusias- bowers, amid a snow storm of falling tic islanders, who looked upon Easter petals. Far off in the pink haze, at the principally as a carnival day, and inci- end of the rope about which a thousand dentally as a religious feast. We held little pairs of hands were clasped, and evening service in the social hall be- at which a thousand little Japs tugged neath a bower of roses, and as we steam- away, could be dimly seen a great tem- ed away, the farewell "alohas" of the ple wagon, its gorgeous colored carvings happy and childlike Hawaiians mingled mellowed by the clouds of cherry blos- with the scent of the flowers and our soms, and the regally robed little actors songs of praise, the sun set in the broad on the great platform in front made Pacific on the most memorable, unique beautiful thereby despite the grotesque Easter I had ever experienced. masks that hid their happy, smiling faces. 306 THE MID-PACIFIC.

hes. anc Br rry Che he t der Un hs t Boo THE MID-PACIFIC. 307

From every street and by-way proces- fore Easter, when every home in Russia sions and throngs of richly robed sight- is open to the high and low, rich and seers moved toward the temple grounds, poor, and food and drink is set forth and where laughing maidens in bamboo all invited to partake. Even the govern- booths dispensed little thimble cups of ment keeps open house, and no one need tea, as the worshipers passed on to the go hungry or sober in Russia during temple, where one and all clapped their Easter week. There were many to pre- hands three times to attract the attention pare for, aboard the "Korneloff." Down of their one god, uttered a hurried in the bowels of the craft up fore, sleep- prayer, and so far as the religious part ing beside their muskets, were a hundred of the ceremonies were concerned, Cossacks on their way to guard the new Easter was over. And, once more chil- railroad being built in Manchuria. Amid- dren, the Japanese of all ages made ships sprawled some hundreds of peas- merry in the carefully cultivated park ants from Black Sea ports who were to and children's playground that always occupy land along the railroad, and aft surrounds a house of God in Japan. squatted a number of convicts, who, as I had left the Hawaiian Islands on soon as the Easter festivities were over, Easter Sunday with a feeling of regret. were to help lay the new roadbed. They As my second Easter came to a close and themselves had arranged a program we steamed out of Yokohama harbor, somewhat different ; it included a pro- there was a longing to return which has posed attempt to wreck the vessel, mur- taken me back to Japan, the land of der the passengers and crew and then flowers, many times since, and will, I take their chances of escaping ashore. trust, be gratified by many more visits But unfortunately for their plans, to this land I love above all others. Father Ivan picked up a strip of paper At Nagasaki we changed steamers for marked by one of the convicts, discover- the new Russian possession of Port Ar- ed the plot, and the program was not thur. It was a great change from the carried out. Three days out from Na- then largest steamship on the Pacific— gasaki we passed between the two rocks the China—to a Russian convict trans- that guard the entrance to the fortresses port. A priest of the orthodox Greek of Port Arthur. It was Easter eve, my church was nervously pacing the quar- third within a month, and with the moor- ter deck as we stepped aboard the ing of the ship the festivities began. "Korneloff," a converted tramp that All day long convicts, peasants and looked as though she had backslidden soldiers regaled themselves at our fes- to her original calling. The robed and tive board, to say nothing of their visits beared priest was anxious to reach his to the war vessels and government church in Port Arthur in time to cele- houses. Ashore matters were in the brate Easter services. Nothing strange same condition, but discipline was ex- about that, for the Russian calendar is cellent. I passed a drunken soldier in twelve days behind the Roman, and as the gutter, his hand to his forehead in Easter Sunday follows the new moon, form of salute should any officer pass ; it often falls in Russia just four weeks he was asleep, but still mindful of dis- later than in other Christian countries. cipline. Father Ivan was sad because of It was but Tuesday, and surely the trip a disappointment. The coolies had been across the Yellow Sea and Gulf of Pe- so .busy building the railway that they chili should be made within four days. had had no time to complete his church, The captain, as jovial a Russian as ever so that after all the first celebration of breathed, certainly seemed to have faith Easter in Russia's new eastern posses- in his "converted tramp," for scarcely sion must take place on the men-of-war had he steamed out of the Nakasaki har- in the harbor. The railway officials wel- bor before he began preparations for the comed Father Ivan, however, for there pascal feast that last the three days be- were many bridges to be blessed before 308 THE MID-PACIFIC.

ls. Cana he t on n Seaso herry C THE MID-PACIFIC. 309 the Russian peasants would ride in the ers and the children, and as for the kiss trains that were soon to cross them. The of brotherly love, I spent Easter Sunday coolies, being pagans, were not invited in Port Arthur dodging that. I think to celebrate Easter ; they worked during I was the only white man in the place not so saluted. There were no women Sundays and the other 153 holidays of in Port Arthur. the Russian church, and they alone of Night fell at last and my third Easter the inhabitants of Port Arthur were Sunday came to a close in a strange land sober when at midnight the ship's bells that was gradually to become familiar to told that "Christ had risen." What a me. I did not realize then how little one straightening up ! If such a thing were can judge by first appearances. My fancy possible, it might be said that in a mo- fled for repose to the lands of flowers ment, and for a moment, every one be- and song, but I know now that things came sober. Solemnly men crossed are not what they seem. A man may themselves and with bowed heads mut- spend his Easter holidays in three differ- tered "Christ is risen ;" then embracing ent lands thousands of miles apart and the person nearest kissed him thrice, learn no lessons from these snapshots once on each cheek and once on the lips, at the people's festivals—unless it is that in the name of the blessed trinity. This he must know a nation during the four third Easter was far more Christian seasons at least, before he can hope to than the other two, but it was not as perform the real miracle of judging much to my liking. I missed the flow- others as he would himself be judged.

A Siberian Easter. 310 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Up. Way he t on ters Cra he f t o One A Woman's Ascent of Mauna Loa

BY MARGARET HOWARD

One night in October the great vol- make the ascent to where the red fire cano of Makaweoweo burst into action. leaped up. From the summit of Mauna Loa three The opportunity came, and the feat vertical miles above the sea and two was accomplished. miles nearer the heavens than where we I am happy, even proud, that oppor- sat at the edge of ever-active Kilauea, tunity came my way, and in spite of the still greater crater reflected its red threatened hardships, advice of friends, glare upon the black sky and drew me importunities of strangers, and every ob- to it in spite of myself. stacle thrown in my path, I made the at- The last hours at the volcano of Ki- tempt—and won out. To write an accu- lauea were spent in popping corn over rate account of the trip to the fiery fur- the crevices near the fire-pit of Hale- nace near heaven would require a pen maumau and in looking up toward the dipped in red hot liquid lava. big mountain of Mauna Loa, watching But one white woman had then made the smoke at its summit and longing to the trip, and she did it under the most 311. 312 THE MID-PACIFIC.

The Weary Climb Up. THE MID-PACIFIC. 313 favorable circumstances. This was Miss as I was the heaviest one of the party Isabella Bird, the famous travel writer. excepting the guide. Scores of men have attempted the trip The first day's ride was through the and failed ; horses and mules have died timber belt across country, for this is on the way, and everybody said, "It is above and beyond the use of roads. It impossible for you to make the trip." was not difficult to sit in the saddle and But I hadn't learned the meaning of let the horse jump a log occasionally, or that word "Impossible." So I prepaied get around a mudhole rather suddenly. to start. Another lady from Honolulu We stopped for the night at the tim- wanted to go, and we telephoned for a ber line, near a small pool of water. guide, horses, pack animal, etc., and to Here the guide put up a tent, the best see if others might join our party. (I corner being partitioned off for Mrs. might say that we had to pay a guide Beverly and myself. We gathered $50, $25 for our horses, $15 for a pack ferns and small twigs, spread our blank- animal, and furnish our own bedding ets and slept the sleep of the just. This and food.) pool of water the next morning furnish- At last we heard of one man in Hilo ed our horses with their last drink until who was going, and it was decided that our return from the crater of Makaweo- weo on the summit of Mauna Loa, near- our party should leave the Volcano House Sunday afternoon. This man ly 14,000 feet above the sea. We filled was twenty-nine miles away and came canteens for ourselves, but carrying water for animals was out of the ques- the day before to make the start with us. tion. After a good lunch, we ordered our next morning came at last and horses saddled and packed with bread, The we were awakened for breakfast before blankets and beans. Ready to start, we were joined by another gentleman, an daylight—cold, damp, foggy—hot cof- eee, bread and beans for us ; for the editor of one of Hilo's papers. horses, a nibble of fern, or nothing. The From the Volcano House to Ainapou horses were so cold that they were glad is a ride of only eighteen or twenty miles, and here we were to spend the to start. In a short time we knew the sun was rising way down below the night and be joined by our guide the clouds ; then it gradually came through next morning. We learned by telephone them to our horizon, tinting the billowy that the guide was bringing two more banks of fleecy clouds, which were roll- to join our party ; one a Stanford Uni- ing over and over each other below us, versity student, and a young boy who lived in the locality. So we had quite around us everywhere. We rode on—I should say up. We a party—six, and a guide. left the trees, came to scanty vegetation, We sent our Volcano House horses stopped for our horses to breathe, and back and ordered them to be ready for looked back upon one of the grandest us on Wednesday. Monday morning scenes you can imagine. Just beneath the native guide, Shem, arrived with us, green trees in a perfect sea of the fresh horses for us, and we started out most beautiful clouds, so pure and fleecy single file behind our guide. The ani- they seemed unreal. We fine for the purpose ; native and white that mals were were all speechless for a moment ; then horses accustomed to the hard lava, over we tried to photograph the scene, but which they were to carry us. The guide carried a horseshoeing outfit with him, so our kodaks were too poor. that a shoe could be replaced if necessary I shall never look up from earth and —for if a horse lost a shoe in this desert see clouds as pure and beautiful as they it would be "good-bye horses." The are on the other side—probably their finest horses were given to the ladies, contact with the earth gives them a tinge of gray, but I shall always re- from a chivalrous spirit and, in my case, other side a humane consideration for the horse, member how they look on the 314 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Mokuaweoweo Crater. THE MID-PACIFIC. 315 and believe that with us, as with them, miles up, up, up, to reach an elevation the farther we get from earth the purer of 13,640 feet. our lives become. It is good to know The air was getting thinner and thin- there is a better side. ner, and it was difficult to breathe. Our Just before the vegetation ceased we throats were parched ; eyes and ears met the silversword, a great bush of swollen, and a sense of dizziness coming silver spears that grows right out of the upon us. This is mountain sickness. I rocks. These are found only here, and can't tell all that it is, but something like at Haleakala, in all the world. It is the the worst case of seasickness, with dizzi- rarest of all plants, and one of the most ness, ringing of ears, swollen throat and beautiful. tongue, heart pumping as if to burst, Well, we traveled on and on, until we and many other disagreeable sensations came to a gate which the guide opened thrown in ! and we entered. Here all vegetation At last, at two o'clock, we suddenly ceases. Not a blade of grass. not a bird, discovered ourselves on the top of the not an insect ; even the grasshopper mountain, at the very edge of the might- would be a burden. Nothing but lava— iest living crater on the earth. And black lava, brown lava, red lava, gray now to describe the indescribable ! Be- lava ; everywhere lava, hard lava, called Below us, and one thousand feet be- paohoehoe, and clinkered lava, or aa. neath us, was the crater of Makauweo- The horses shuddered, and we felt a lit- weo, covering an area of more than ten tle dubious ourselves ; but Mrs. Beverly square miles—a lake of lava on top of a mountain of lava. and myself were not going to complain . We had determined to die game if nec- The walls are vertical and drop sud- essary. Surely here is the place for a denly down to the desolate expanse be- signboard reading, "He who enters here fore us. This whole area has once been leaves hope behind." a boiling cauldron of seething lava, which on cooling has shrunken and The sun shone down upon the lava cracked in places. In other portions the and reflected in our faces. There was waves and billows and surges of lava little to guide the steps of the poor beast' have cooled before they could level them- that carried us other than the occasional selves, and the hardened mass appears blood stains left by the horses in front. in the writhing forms, just as it had This awful lava is so hard and sharp and originally been belched forth. clinkered and cracked that the horses step. Slight earthquakes have scattered or were scratched with nearly every piled the loose lava rocks in chaotic con- At times we found large boulders which fusion, but left undisturbed a river of would roll or break off where the horses lava in a lake of lava, like an ocean cur- stepped, but our horses were like flies rent in the mighty deep. on the wall—they stuck. The great points of interest were the At first the strain to ourselves was in- fountains of fire, which were bursting into tense, the constant nerve tension fearing the air, falling again as hardened stones, the horses might slip and fall. But we forming cones around the fountains had to learn to let the horses alone, sit which belched them forth. These cones firm in our saddles, and trust our guide. would be formed in a few minutes, when How can I tell about this trip! A and an extra explosion would occur, tumbling mighty mountain that grew worse them into the burning furnace to be re- worse at each step. In places the crust of lava was only three of four inches melted and cast up again. thick, sometimes the crust barely cover- From fifteen to twenty of these fiery ed the caves beneath. In one place the fountains were constantly bursting into guide had to dislodge a big lava stone the air, 400, 500 and even 600 feet high, to cover a crack so that the horses could with the energy and velocity of a rapid cross. This is all uphill—twenty-five firing gun on a modern battleship. 316 THE MID-PACIFIC.

0 U Qi C. 0)La THE MID-PACIFIC. 317

We called them fountains, but that thermometer at 16 degrees. One gentle- cannot convey the idea, for who can man was so cold that his teeth chattered think of a score of fountains of fire each for hours, and the guide suffered so from thirty to fifty feet in diameter and much that he died within a few days. 600 feet high belching forth unceasing- We ladies fared much better than the ly for days ? men, for they gave us the best, and the only unpleasant thought is that our com- We looked until our eyes were weary ; fort was secured by a sacrifice of theirs. dizzy, trembling, and sick, we were glad Too sick to raise our heads, we let to lie on the lava rocks waiting for the them lap over the edge of the crater dur- tent to be made ready. A small board ing the night to watch the seething, embellished with the names of the party writhing currents of shiny, glistening which had been here the day before laVa, rolling over the edge of one cone as a pillow for Mrs. Beverly and served flowing in a red stream over the floor of myself. The guide appeared, informing the crater, and the columns of red-hot us that the fuel which had been sent for liquid rocks bursting into the air, and to our use had been used. We knew at listen to the roaring of the furnace be- once that the previous. party had suffer- from cold, and were forced to burn low. ed None of us were sure that all this was everything in sight—yes, even the tent quite real. The heavens were still over pole. our heads, but volumes of smoke were Here was a serious situation—night rising from beneath and the glare of fast approaching with a lowering ther- the flames were so illuminating the can- mometer, snow in the crevices of the opy that even it seemed unreal. rocks on which we were lying, horses At four o'clock we were weary to unable to carry us back, nothing with death of our perch on the rocks, and we which to boil coffee, and everybody got up, looked at the stars, prepared the sick. The gentlemen had a conference coffee and made ready to return to terra and decided to leave it to Mrs. Beverly firma. Our sickness continued until we and myself whether or not we would try reached about 8000 or 10,000 feet ele- to get the horses back to timber line. vation. There was every possible beau- We strenuously objected. We had ty in cloud effect, landscape after land- come to see the crater at night, and did scape seemed to wish to attract our at- not want to return ; besides, we were so tention, but we were too tired to do ill that we could scarcely hold our heads more than look. up ; so it was decided to remain. We I remember from one point seeing the gave up our little board pillow, with its mountain of lava beneath my feet, far- galaxy of names, and used it for fuel ther down the green vegetation, still far- for preparing coffee for supper and ther down the taller trees lifting their breakfast. It was precious fuel, but we green branches into the clouds around had to use it. them ; below this, miles of green cane The best protected spot was chosen, fields washed by the white surf of the horse blankets brought, our own thrown sea, and away at the left the smoke ris- over us, the tent laid over all—and we ing from Kilauea, forty miles away. sat, hung over, or partly laid down just I am glad I went. Never shall I for- as the particular rock fitted each indi- get a single incident of that trip. The vidual. We were beastly uncomfortable, wierdness, desolation, immensity, grand- even without mountain sickness. The eur and beauty are impressed upon my night was almost unendurable with the memory as no other event of my life.

2-M. P. 318 THE MID-PACIFIC.

d, lan Zea New 0

O

he t d an ion L The Industrial New Zealand

BY H. F. ALEXANDER

The Mormons have taken for their The great industry of New Zealand is emblem the beehive. To me this has al- wool, and this centers about Christ- ways seemed the fitting emblem for church. Woolen mills are springing up, New Zealand. but the great bulk of the crop is still There are four full-grown queen bees shipped to England. in New Zealand—Auckland, Welling- To Americans, the great industry of ton, Christchurch, and Dunedin, and Wellington is creating new labor laws each is a center of some useful industry. for the New Zealanders. And after all, Christchurch is the home of the colleges industrial New Zealand is largely the re- and the national exhibitions, Wellington sult of the labor law factory in Welling- is the capital, Auckland the metropolis, ton. My first enquiries in New Zealand and Dunedin the bustle place and home were directed toward a better informa- of the fourth largest steamship fleet fly- tion regarding the labor laws in behalf ing the British flag. of the workingman. Many of the state- Wellington is building skyscrapers, ments of the discontented man above the and Dunedin is still ordering ocean mediocre which I had treated as incred- greyhounds from Glasgow. The first ible I now quickly learned were not only little vessel of the Union S. S. Co. still possible, but more than probable. I gathers copra in the South Seas, but she learned from legal authorities that where is scarcely the size of a tugboat when government aid was given to the land placed alongside the new ten-thousand settler, the agricultural inspector could tonners of this southern line. by law dictate to the assisted farmer 319 320 THE MID-PACIFIC.

d. n la a Ze New ene— k Sc l Doc ica p Ty A THE MID-PACIFIC. 321 how he should plant his lands. In New —but it was not where they had inaugu- Zealand any place where two or more rated a millenium. workers are employed is a factory, and One of my first acquaintances ashore under the strictest supervision of the did not hesitate to voice his grievances inspector, who has it in his power to be to the stranger against the laws of his very annoying, for the factory laws are land, that, he declared, pampered the extreme, and all, seemingly, in behalf of day laborer at the expense of every other the factory hand. There are fines and class. This citizen had built a house in punishments for every trivial violation. Auckland, which he rented out upon No workman may remain overtime or moving to his farm in the country. With- work more than a specified number of out his knowledge the tenant undertook hours, without special permission of the at his own expense some trifling repairs. authorities. Only union men must be The workman employed was injured employed, unless special exception is while making the alterations, and as is made by the Arbitration Court. In gov- the law in such cases he at once recov- ernment work, at least, applicants are ered damages to the amount of five hun- selected by lot, the married man of family dred pounds. This amount the tenant in the first lot, and the young single man did not possess, so the owner of the as a last possible employee. house was compelled to pay, but he be- man ing a hundred pounds short, the friend The laws made for the laboring who had loaned him money on mort- have not, of course, by any means driven gage was forced to pay the difference— all of the ambitious ones out of New by law this thing was done. Think of Zeland. Before I had been in Auck- the man who lends money on a mortgage land a day I began to meet residents to being liable for damages to workmen on whom the leveling process was irksome. the building upon which he has loaned These protested that the laws were made the money ! A mortgage in New Zea- to beat down the man who dares, and land is a wonderful bit of writing—it that to attempt to break from the ranks binds the owner and the tenant not to meant failure. Others, of course, urged make repairs without the mortgagee's that only when the state was the sole consent, and even the servants in the employer would there be universal con- house must be insured against accident tentitent. In the meantime, newspapers in the government insurance concern. were daily ridiculing a socialist states- Often, in this workingman's paradise, man who had been relieved of his posi- men too independent—or obstinate—to tion in the railway service because he belong to the union, declared to me that spoke against the government. This they were relegated, by law, to an indus- man had expressed himself violently in trial purgatory. This statement was cor- favor of the government controlling roborated by at least one employer, who every industry. No employees except buttonholed me in my hotel one day to those of the government, was his cry. In narrate the story of his rise in the world the day of his downfall the editors of —in New Zealand—and how in rising the opposition papers were poking fun he had built, and in building remem- at the victim and prodding him with bered an old comrade who was a brick- queries as to what course he would pur- layer, and a good one, although not a sue if every position in the Dominion member of any union, and therefore, was controlled by the government. What said my informant, beyond the pale of would he do then if discharged for protection by law in New Zealand. The cause by his employer—the state— bricklayer, however, was employed, with starve ? I have not yet seen the reply scores of union men. One day a stranger of the agitator of the government as the applied for work when there was no only employer of labor ; I have seen the more to give ; moreover, the newcomer result—in some other parts of the world was a bad workman and often permitted 329 THE MID-PACIFIC.

d. lan Zea New in ls il M len Woo THE MID-PACIFIC. 323 his longing for the flowing bowl to over- same box car and that the government come him—he was told that there was no railway wouldn't r.un milk or garden vacancy. truck trains anyway; that the only way "You have a non-union man at work ; he could make both ends meet was to I demand his place." sell his milk to the cheese factory, and The builder refused to discharge a were it not for the fact that his sons and good workman, and the union man daughters milked the cows, he would threatened to "inform," which he did. have to give up dairying, as it would Promptly the court fined the builder never pay if a man were employed to do £25 and costs, compelled him to replace the milking. He went into facts and his good worker with a poor one, at figures that pointed out conclusively wages set by law, and the New Zealander that at legal wage rates in New Zealand, whose honest convictions would not per- keeping cows and employing labor to mit him to join a labor union was sent milk them would result in an actual de- forth, an Ishmaelite, forbidden by the ficit. Even as I write, there is a recent law of his land to work for any person issue of the Wellington Post before me or firm more than two weeks at a time, containing an article boasting of dairy- and then he must resign his place to a ing as the modest hope of 40,000 fami- member of the union. This, I was as- lies in New Zealand, whose greatest am- sured by many of whom I made inquiry, bition is with fifty cows and one hundred was all fact, not fancy, and I know that and fifty acres of land to take in a gross in many of the rulings of the Arbitra- income of $2000 a year, with butter at tion Court, as published in the daily one shilling a pound to the producer. press, the decree is set forth whether or . Dairying is here advocated as the call- not the non-union man in a particular ing of the man of moderate circum- trade or locality is to have equal privi- stances, and a point is made that many a leges with the union member. who failed in business in the cities in It is not only the town and city em- small way, by hard and continuous work ployer of labor in New Zealand who at dairying, have acquired a moderate at his lot ; the man on the land surety of success. Large fortunes, it is grumbles made at this call- sometimes has his tale of woe to pour stated, are not to be into the ear of the stranger. In fact, the ing ; it is the poor man's occupation ; and paternalistic government that controls this seems true, for each cow, it is esti- transportation and delivers the farmer mated, will give a dollar's worth of milk his fertilizers free, does not always come per week, or fifty-two dollars a year, and in for unstinted praise from the tiller of after grazing, etc., it is readily seen that the soil. It was near Dunedin that I to make a profit the farmer and his fam- met an old truck farmer and dairyman ily must look after their own cows. In who lived within thirty miles of that sea- the cities I noticed all sorts of devices in the shop windows for milking cows by port city of 40,000, yet protested that he could not get his green peas or produce machinery and for separating the butter fat from the milk ; in fact, one inventor to market—to say nothing of his milk. ma- I spoke of the American interurban promised that the use of his milking railways that take ten-gallon cans of milk chines would make it possible to employ from the farmer at early dawn, in ex- labor at current legal rates ($2.00 a change for a fare ticket, to the nearest day) and still have a profit, so that dairy- town or city and deliver it at the corner ing may—if the inventor's claims are grocery or transfer it to a car that takes valid—become in New Zealand the in- destination—and how on dustry of the capitalist or corporation. it to the correct stay was the night runs the empty cans are re- New Zealand butter during my little New Zealand farmer being quoted at 138 shillings a hundred turned. The against two shil- and dairyman was astonished. He stated weight in London—as lings less for the Australian product. that the laws of New Zealand forbid 112 him shipping milk and produce in the The British hundred weight is 324 THE MID-PACIFIC. THE MID-PACIFIC. 325 pounds, so that after freight and com- perfect. If the capitalist would not come mission is paid there should be a shilling to terms, he could go out into the forest per pound for the producer. and clear a bit of land, and the govern- New Zealand has a population of one ment would give him aid ; in fact, every- million, almost all workmen and laborers. where in the railway stations were gov- She exports about $80,000,000 worth of ernment placards offering men oppor- her products annually, or about $80 per tunities on the land. Capitalists, it is capita, pretty equally divided among the true, were invited to invest in sheep rais- people. Hawaii, with a population of ing but they were frankly notified that one hundred and fifty thousand, exports more than 5 per cent. return on their in- over $40,000,000 worth of her products, vestment would be improbable, owing or nearly $300 per capita, most of which to the present high value of land. Nearly goes into the pockets of the few. In everyone in New Zealand is, seemingly, Hawaii a few men of millions give em- land mad ; everyone. clerks, laborers, all, ployment at eighty cents a day to the vast invest in some bit of soil upon which multitude of Orientals they have import- they may retire in time and from which ed as temporary laborers on their several compel a competency—or sell again per- vast estates, creating a social problem haps as land values increase. New Zea- that the government might well pay hun- land is the land of the small man, the dreds of millions to solve. In Hawaii, man of mediocre attainments, and after taken as a whole, the few are immensely all, the world over, he is in the vast, vast wealthy, the many extremely poor. In majority. I have quoted the man above New Zealand, few are wealthy, few real- the mediocre at length ; it is not neces- ly poor ; the Oriental is forbidden to set sary to quote the mediocre man of New foot in "a white man's country," and no Zealand more than once ; he is unani- man may now own real estate valued at mous it is God's country, and his coun- more than $245,000, and this is likely to try—the fairest, best and most prosper- be soon again contracted. The laborer ous country in the whole world—he is must receive a minimum wage of $2.00 satisfied ; that, his last word, and after a day, and it is within the power of the all, what more is to be said? government to take over monopolies for First impressions are the strongest the better service of the people. Today and often the most apt to be those that in Hawaii there is a land commission ap- are nearest the truth ; but, first and last, pointed by the. Governor of that Terri- the fact remains, that industrial New tory that is studying the land and labor Zealand, made by man the land of splen- laws of New Zealand with a view to did mediocrity, has become the world's adopting those that will best serve to open text-book on things accomplished tempt the white man to settle on the land in behalf of a higher humanity for the in Hawaii and the Oriental to leave it. masses, while its illustrations in color Nowhere is New Zealand did I find a from the hand of God declare her to be, laboring man, a drawer of wages, who so far as Nature is concerned, matchless complained of his lot. To him New Zea- in beauty and grandeur. Man's New land was ideal ; he had helped to build Zealand may be splendidly mediocre, but the social structure, and behold ! it was God's New Zealand is Sublimity itself. 326 THE MID-PACIFIC.

The Swamp at the Summit of Molokai. Tramping on Molokai

BY KIMU KUDA

It is not generally known that on the for the hunter, naturalist, or tourist Island of Molokai, in the Hawaiian tramper. group, is to be found the most beautiful There are splendid auto roads along waterfalls arid the most thrilling moun- the sea and far up into the mountains. tain climbing in the Island Territory. There are thousands of fleet-foot al goats True, a_ little peninsula that juts out in the canyons, and on the mountain from a cliff 2000 feet high, is segregated plateaus herds of deer. Molokai is the as the home of those unfortunate Ha- "game" island of the Hawaiian group, waiians who have contracted "The and but two or three hours' ride by Chinaman's Sickness," a disease that in steamer from Honolulu. Hawaii practically never attacks the At Pukoo the Trail and Mountain white man. Here on this lovely little Club has its resthouse, where Judge peninsula, surrounded on three sides by Conradt, of the club, sees that the mem- the sea, and on the fourth by an inac- bers are taken care of at the club rates, cessible precipice, the imported Oriental fifty cents a meal and fifty cents a bed. disease is dying out. Everywhere else Here, too, in Pukoo Valley, the Boy on the Island of Molokai is a paradise Scouts have their summer camp, and the 327 328 THE MID-PACIFIC.

The Cliffs of Molokai. THE MID-PACIFIC. 329 ladies of the club go a-camping in the There is nothing difficult in negotiat- adjacent valleys. ing the Wailau trail from the Pukoo side Toward the mountains there are goats of the island ; it is a gentle, sloping walk and deer, and in Halawa Valley, a half up ; first, over a grassy ridge which a day's walk away, great, clear moun- should be ascended in the early morning tain pools that the Trail and Mountain before the sun is hot. A slow walk of brings you to the forest line, Club is arranging to stock with moun- an hour tain trout for fishing. All along the sea and up to this point there is a horse trail. There is no need of a canteen, for run- coast are ancient Hawaiian fish ponds, in which may be caught a score of dif- ning brooks are encountered on every hand. Straight, but ever upward, ferent kinds of sea fish. The trail from Pukoo leads along the sea coast to Ha- through the forest the trail leads directly lawa. There are few prettier trails in to the summit of the pali that surrounds Hawaii than that up Halawa Valley. All Wailau Valley. There are dainty grey the way the waterfalls that dash down land shells to be found here, and on the from the very tops of the precipices are summit are great tiger shells. Wailau bursts on the vision with a in sight. One of these falls leaps in several drops some three thousand feet ; startling suddenness. You emerge from between the two is a steep ridge, and up the tropical forest by brushing aside a this the pilgrims clambered and climbed branch in your way and stand on the until they could look down into the great edge of that great green rim that sur- pools into which the falls thundered. It rounds the valley. That rim is from was far up on the tablelands above that three to nearly five thousand feet above we began discussing the wonders of the the lowest level of the valley. To your Pelekunu trail. This is supposed to be left are the highest mountain peaks of the steepest and most arduous trail to ne- Molokai ; in the foreground between Pe- gotiate in all the islands, and it is so. lekunu and Wailau valleys is a mountain So it was that the dozen that had prom- peak nearly 5000 feet high and only ised faithfully to negotiate the Pelekunu once ascended ; it was a two-day climb, pass was reduced to last extremities to for the peak is isolated and must be two of us. climbed from the bottom straight up. We stood with Naki and his small boy, There was the tramp back to Pukoo Valley, in which there is perhaps the who had trailed behind, on the edge of most perfectly preserved heiau on the the great green rim. We understood islands, almost in the backyard of Judge why the valley was named Wailau, Conradt, and from Conradt's backyard which means four hundred ' waterfalls. the trail over the mountains to Wailau From every part of the semi-circular rim Valley begins. The plan was to climb of green, ribbons of white stretched up the slope some three thousand feet down to the floor of the valley below ; and then practically drop over the preci- that is, some of the ribbons did ; others pice into Wailau Valley, trail down to only stretched half way down and caught its mouth, take a canoe and paddle along by the winds, ascended again in fleece, the cliffs to the entrance of Pelekunu still others dropper out from lava ledges Valley, and then walk straight up a pali half way down ; scores of these falls lit- wander through the erally poured out from the rocks as 4500 feet high, to though some Moses had passed that way swamp on the tableland, and if luck was kind, finally find the way back to the with his miraculous wand. level ground and Conradt's. The sea was but three hours behind, Neither of us knew the way, but Naki, and before us again was the shining ocean a native who made paiai in Pelekunu clear and distinct. At word of command and attended church dedications in Ha- Naki's small boy dropped over the edge lawa, was on his way home, and for a of the pali and began the descent ; bare- consideration assumed the burden of the footed and liht he dropped from rock white man—mostly grub. to rock and the others followed, down 330 THE MID-PACIFIC.

The Pelekunu Country. THE MID-PACIFIC. 331 the face of the pali where in rainy wea- of which have been long forgotten in ther cascades leap and waterfalls drop Hawaii. sheer, the trailers followed ; often it was There was a reception of the strang- a matter of clinging to a root and drop- ers at the beach and a wordy war, for ping to a rock ; for full 2000 feet it was the travelers wished to proceed at once mostly jumps, then small Naki deviated by canoe to Pelekunu. It was three to the left and the trail led along the face o'clock in the afternoon, and it required of the pali where the tropical foliage an hour's talk to persuade Naki that we clung to bare rocks and provided a foot- really intended to use a canoe. Alas ! hold for man. It was a splendid trail there are no longer koa canoes on Molo- for descending, if you didn't slip or lose kai, the modern three-board outrigger af- your balance. Naki, the elder, explain- fairs have taken their place, and in Wai- ed that Pelekunu was much the same, lau there is but one that can carry four only twice as steep and twice as long— paddlers, and this lay dismantled, so that upward. there was another hour that slipped by From the base of the pali there were before the start was made. The two evidences that the valley had once sup- explorers had to take their turn at the ported a large population. Probably the paddle. entire valley was once terraced. Should For four months out of the year it is Hawaii ever follow the lead of South possible for the steamer to send boats Carolina and import a colony of Hol- into Wailau, and it is possible to paddle landish small farmers, Wailau Valley a canoe along the face of the cliffs to could be made a productive garden of Pelekunu ; the rest of the year the val- Eden beyond the wildest dreams of any leys are isolated. It was a calm day, yet but the intensive gardener. In this val- the rollers sent splashes into the canoe ley oranges ripen in July and August, and the men hugged the cliff. For the the off season elsewhere. The sweet wild three miles the pali is sheer, but at the oranges of Wailau are famous. At last base sufficient land has been made by there on the trail we could see giant the cliffs falling into the sea to provide orange trees laden with golden fruit. a foot trail. It is only near Pelekunu Naki, the younger, shinned up one tree where the entire center of a mountain,. and Naki, the elder, up another ; we sat facing the sea, seems to have been blown below and waited for the oranges to come out, leaving a bay with walls seemingly down, and they did, ripe, juicy, luscious a mile high, that the cutting of a trail oranges, sweeter than the California va- would be difficult. riety, and few seeds. Such a valley in It was dusk when the weary paddlers Italy would be terraced up to the very stepped ashore at the Pelekunu landing. rocky walls and laid out in the fruit. A It did not take them long, however, to three-thousand-foot wall protects this prepare for a surf that ran in on a slop- valley from insect pests, and a colony of ing beach before the mouth of the Pele- Hollanders would see that they never got kunu stream. It was a surf that carried a foothold. you before it right into the fresh water There was an hour following the stream, an ideal place for surfboarding, stream to the sea, and it was necessary but the art is forgotten in Pelekunu, al- to cross the stream a dozen times, and though the small native boys did pick up each new crossing was deeper than the bits of wood and hold them before them, last, until Naki, at least, found it more so as to ride in on the waves. convenient to swim. We slept at the house of the local Ha- At the mouth of the valley there is the waiian pastor, and at six in the morning village where the paiai for the settlement his son Kalamoni shouldered our pack is made and taken by steamer once a and led the way to the mountain pass. week to its destination, ten miles away. There was a charming walk through de- Here the women beat the clothes in wash- serted taro lands, and then a fight ing with ancient tapa sticks, the real uses through miles of wild ginger that meets. 332 THE MID-PACIFIC. THE MID-PACIFIC. 333

above the head. This was all taro land water would be reached. It was Kala- once, and to the industrious should again moni who came to the rescue. Tall, lily- become as highly productive as any gar- like plants grew by the trail side ; Kala- den spot in the Islands. It was a tramp moni pulled down the outer leaf stalks through neglected opportunities. There and clear water gathered on the leaf at were trails up the valley once, and thou- the base. Kalamoni announced that the sands of inhabitants,• now you ford the water could be drunk and we tasted and Pelekunu stream lengthwise, because it declared it good, and after that we spent is easier than breaking a trail. most of the time turning down leaves Kalamoni led us through deep water and wetting our parched lips. and over high boulders ; he was bare- The hours passed and from the higher footed and content, although carrying reaches the views were wildly beautiful, fifty pounds of the white man's burden but my companion was exhausted ; his on his back. The white men carried a heart required rest, and he wanted to camera and parts of two suits of clothes sleep. He did nap once or twice while between them. So long as the bed of the the wild Hawaiian birds whistled and stream was followed there was no com- sang. He had a touch of the malaria plaint from my white companion ; he brought from southern Illinois, but he bent down, drank, and was happy. Sud- didn't know it then. The last stretch denly Kalamoni turned aside into a ditch was reached and the perpendicular climb arched over with ferns and foliage ; into was made. this we crept for a hundred yards, then All around the vast semi-circle was a emerged on a trail that led up a hillside. sheer wall of green, from 4500 to 5000 No malihini would have found that ditch feet high, and the valley far below. It trail. The view became more beautiful was magnificent, but we wanted to reach with every step, and there before us was the very top and rest. By digging in the the sheer wall of green we must climb. perpendicular trail beneath rocks it was Once again we descended to the stream, now possible to get a few drops of water, and at last we admitted that it might and this delayed matters, for we felt that have been well to have brought a can- we could absorb every drop of water in teen, for now we left the stream behind the mountains. and Kalamoni the wise stated that there The top at last. We dropped down was no more water until we reached the and rested. In the burden carried by summit swamp, four thousand five hun- Kalamoni was a vial of something that dred feet above, a four-hour tramp at had not been opened for thirty-five years, least. The steep, part began at once and but the weary traveler still held out. never let up. "Where is the water ?" he asked. For the first few hundred yards it was "Half a mile," replied Kalamoni. not necessary to use the hands in climb- "Lead on," we said. ing to any great extent, but soon the Kalamoni led, and in a moment, but a sheer portions of the trail became more few yards from the edge of the pali the f t equent, and it was real mountain climb- party plunged into a swamp as pictur- ing. We began to grow thirsty. An hour esque and dismal as any in the Southern passed and we grew more thirsty, and States. Water there must be for the feet the mountain top seemed as far off as bogged to the knees, and at last it ever. Every now and then there was a sprang through the mosses into a clear level ridge to cross, and what a relief one pool and, there we called a halt, and the of these ridges seemed to be with a thou- white man's burden on Kalamoni's back sand feet sheer on either side and a foot was unstrapped, a cup was taken out wide ridge ; then we climbed again. My and the lunch spread. The vial was pro- companion was acquiring a thirst that duced, and the amber liquid within was maddening ; he was perspiring from sparkled. For more than a quarter of every pore, and there were still two to a century the cork had not been remov- three hours of steady climbing before ed, yet for that period it had traveled to

3—M. P. 334 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Landing on Molokai.

A Settlement on Molokai. THE MID-PACIFIC. 335 get used in a case of emergency, and too soft bank of mud on which to spend now the emergency had arrived—and I the night, but through the fog we saw was on the water wagon. My companion a ridge, and we took the guide in hand poured a few drops into a cup of water, and put a stop to his aimless wanderings and it was my tongue that hung out. He and despite his protests we led him along drank and I watched him. Kalamoni the edge of the ridge and at last emerged spread the lunch, and behold, there was from beneath the cloud. There lay the fruit cake ! Now in my home fruit cake sea far below, and there, half a mile to was always made with brandy flavoring. the right, across an impassable gulch, I made a reach for the vial and soon was the ridge that should be descended. the cake was saturated with the life-giv- There was one chance, however. The ing fluid ; I did not descend from the valley below ended in a gigantic hole or water wagon for I ate, not drank, the cave, the river in the bottom of the val- brandy, but the result was the same ; I ley leaped into the cave, and above the arose refreshed and ready for the tramp cave was a natural arch. An hour's through the swamp. My companion's breaking through every kind of tropical heart was normal once more, and he growth ended at the arch, and it could was ready for any kind of tramp—and it be crossed. was well, for it was that kind of a tramp It was dark when the weary and worn he was going to get. party arrived at Supervisor Meyer's The Pelekunu swamp, it is said, is house at Kamalo, and we did justice to filled with bog holes that suck the unfor- the venison feast he spread. Judge Con- tunate one who steps into one down to radt drove over for us poor, weary ones death. We tried to keep to the trail, who had taken twelve and a half hours but a fog came up and Kalamoni lost the to cross Molokai from sea to sea over trail, then followed four hours of break- ing through staghorn, bogging to the the Pelekunu mountain. knees, and catching to ferns for self- Saturday night at about dusk the preservation. There were gulches that steamer leaves Pukoo for Honolulu, and ended in deep holes filled with brown those who have ever made the Molokai waters, there were bogs that could not tramps are loud in their declaration that be crossed, and night was coming on. they are the most interesting in all the Preparations were made to find a not islands. 336 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Dam Bi: 's lia tra s u ■ Solving the Irrigation Problem in Australia

BY NIEL NIELSEN

This great world has a few fine places no colossal fortunes here, .and no real about which people hear very little. poverty. Everybody is happy and well- New South Wales is one of them, so it to-do. The country's institutions reflect will be just as well before coming to the the highest types of the activities and main subject of this article to say some- complexities of modern civilization. thing in a general way about it. Like all young countries, the great in- New South Wales, the oldest of the dustries of the soil are the main source six States comprising the Great Austra- of the people's wealth. Here all the lian Commonwealth, the gem of the agrarian activities are still in the initial South Pacific, is one of the richest, freest stage. This does not mean that nothing and most progressive of the world's new worth talking about has been accom- countries. Its territory embraces 310,- plished—such an impression would be a 700 square miles, or 195,000,000 acres, long way from the truth. A country two and a half times greater than the discovered only one hundred and twen- British Isles, and as yet it carries a popu- ty years ago, with but 1,645,000 people at present, and producing wealth from lation of only 1,645,000 souls. But these people belong to one race, speak one its soil to the value of £46,000,000 language, and are fired by the same im- ($220,800,000) annually, may justly pulses, hopes and ambitions, and have claim to have achieved something re- evolved for themselves a government, at markable. But the point of view isap- once the freest, most democratic, and propriate in the light of the country's most easily conformable to the popular marvelous potentialities. No limit can will known on earth. Its social life is be set to its natural resources. Its pos- easy and free, and nowhere else are so- sibilities in every branch of agriculture, cial barriers so thinly drawn. There are especially, are tremendous. Great as 337 3 - S THE MID-PACIFIC

ADiv ersion THE MID-PACIFIC. 339 have been the exploits of the farmers of Victoria, recently said of the Burrin- of New South Wales, what has been ac- juck irrigation scheme: "It is as good complished amounts to little more than as the best I have ever seen ; there was a demonstration to the world that here nothing better in America or anywhere is a country with a most salubrious and else in the world. I am certain from an temperate climate, and a range of rich examination of the soil that it is capable soils, which, working together, yield of a very great variety of forms of cul- abundantly every kind of cereal, fruit tivation. A portion of it is particularly and vegetable ; whose succulent pastures useful for citrus fruits ; all of it is highly support the 46,000,000 merino sheep, suitable for lucerne (alfalfa) growing ; from which the world gets its finest a large part is adapted for the growth wools ; and sustain herds of sleek dairy of oranges, another portion for stone cattle producing each year 80,000,000 fruits, and a big proportion would grow no pounds of butter. This much has been grapes to perfection. I consider that done by the healthy, wealthy and pros- difficulty will be experienced in getting perous New South Wales farmer. Much settlers from America to take up blocks more remains to be done, and the final once they know 'of the manifold advan- goal of the agricultural activities of this tages of the scheme." State, so great are its innate capacities, In the heart of the highlands near the southern extremity of New South is an ever-receding one. In New South Wales today, in the re- Wales, are deep, rugged gorges and gion of ample rainfall, enjoying a pro- mountain peaks. At a point near Bur- Murrumbidgee presses pitious climate and capable of maintain- rinjuck the ing a large population, there are millions through a gorge that narrows so re- of acres of good lands still awaiting the markably as if Nature herself had fore- settler. Notwithstanding this, the pa- seen the contingency of the erection of ternal government of the State embark- a great dam there. The dam has a max- ed on a colossal undertaking to bring imum height of 240 feet, with a base 160 within the sphere of close settlement and feet thick, tapering to 40 feet at the top. intense cultivation a large tract of land It is one of the greatest undertakings of in one of the drier districts. The great its kind in the world. The dam will success which has attended the irriga- throw back the waters into a lake cove' tion projects of private individuals in ing 12,740 acres, reaching in one direr other parts of the country bespeaks won- tion for a distance of forty-one miles t1.2 derful results for this great State scheme the Murrumbidgee, for fifteen miles up —the Murrumbidgee irrigation scheme. the Goodradigbee, and for twenty-onP The interests of the "small" settler are miles in another direction up the Yass given paramount consideration in the River. Its capacity is 766,324 acre feet, land policy of the government, and the which means it will store up sufficient depth of a great irrigation project, with the main water to cover that area to a features of which this article is to deal, foot. will ultimately provide for 7000 settlers. The liberated waters from Burrinjuck The whole project is a State concern, dam flow down the natural channel of which means that no profits have to be the Murrumbidgee for a distance of 'earned to pay the dividends of company more than 200 miles to Berembed, where shareholders. The whole scheme is the diversion weir and headworks are primarily concerned with the develop- located. In construction and design this ment of the State, and of the interests weir is of the very highest type in use. of the settlers, who share in that devel- The canal regulator and headworks con- opment. Mr. Elwood Meade, the irriga- trolling the flow of water into the main tion expert who was brought from canal are situated alongside of and at America to superintend important irri- right angles to the weir, and consist of gation works in the neighboring State ten openings five feet in width, each 340 THE MID-PACIFIC. THE MID-PACIFIC. 341 controlled by sluice gates in three sec- free from disease ; there is also a mark- tions of leaves, which allow the river ed absence of the plant pests which ex- water to be drawn off at different levels, ist in the more humid districts. -thus keeping the canal free from the The average annual rainfall is about heaviest silt. The main canal is 64 feet 16 inches; of which 7 inches fall during wide at the water level, with an 8-foot winter months, which extend from May depth of flow. It will discharge 1000 to August, inclusive, the remaining 9 cubic feet of water per second. From inches falling in the summer months, the main canal distributary channels will f rim September to April, during which -deliver supplies of water to each sepa- period irrigation is necessary to supple- rate holding, while the drainage chan- ment this rainfall. nels will remove surplus water after The first subdivision, which became each irrigation. available for application in January, The climate of the State of New 1912, comprises an area of 125,000 acres. South Wales for temperateness, even- Other subdivisions will become available ness, and salubrity, acknowledges no at frequent intervals until the total area peer. The Murrumbidgee valley is one of 350,000 acres is brought under irri- of the most favored in this respect from gation. In addition 1,000,000 acres of the dual points of view of agricultural "dry" land will be worked in conjunc- production and health. The average tion with the watered areas, and the summer shade temperature is 74.9 de- whole will eventually support 100,000 grees ; the average winter shade temper- people. ature is 51.5 degrees. There are no ex- The soils of the Murrumbidgee Val- tremes of heat and cold. The summer ley are of exceeding fertility and of a heat is dry and bracing, and labor may uniform richness. The whole of the be carried on throughout the hottest country is flat or gently slopes to the days without bodily discomfort. The westward—the ideal conditions for .the winter days are warm and bright, the economical construction of channels. nights cool and crisp, while snow never The capital cost of the water conserva- falls. Lung troubles are unknown ; chil- tion works is treated as a national ex- dren thrive and develop into sturdy penditure, and is not charged on to the men and women. Plant growth con- land. This means cheap water as well tinues throughout the year. Livestock as the absence of inflated land values. live and fatten in the open fields through- Each irrigation settler in the Murrum- out the winter, no hand-feeding or hous- bidgee Valley will have a statutory right ing being necessary. to a minimum volume of water equal to The fruits of the temperate climes, a depth of one foot of water over every such as apples, pears, apricots, peaches, acre of his holding—to be supplied dur- plums, nectarines, and walnuts, grow ing the summer irrigating season. The side by side with the citrus fruits, vines, water charge is five shillings per acre agree- olives, and figs of the warmer climate, per foot, further volumes under each thriving wonderfully. The warm ment at the same rate in summer, and a temperatures and low humidity are un- lesser rate in winter. The charge may favorable to parasite life, and during the be reduced by one-half during the first fruit-picking season provide the neces- year, it being then increased yearly until sary dry heat for the curing and pro- the fifth year, when the full charge will duction of the highest grade raisins and be collected. -dried fruits at a minimum cost. Grain, The State-owned railways convey the cane, and root crops thrive equally well, settlers' produce at particularly low while lucerne, or alfalfa, may be relied rates, and give them direct access to upon to give not less than six cuttings every important part of the State, as well during ordinary years, and occasionally as to the seaboard and the great oversea as high as eight. Stock are singularly markets. There is a considerable local 342 THE MID-PACIFIC.

irrigated Reaches in Australia THE MID-PACIFIC. 343

market for fresh and canned fruits and disease. Each intending settler receives dairy products. Huge oversea vessels a plan of the surface levels of the with modern refrigeration, open the blocks and a design showing the most whole world to settlers everywhere in suitable lay-out into fields for the va- New South Wales. Today enormous rious kinds of crops. Government offi- quantities of butter, frozen mutton and cials afford information and instruction lamb, and fruits go to all the great cen- on the spot on all agricultural matters, ters in Great Britain, Europe, Canada, and advise settlers in the purchase of the United States and in the East. stock and farming implements. The government renders practical as- Persons traveling to inspect the irri- sistance to settlers in various ways. Ten gation area with the bona fide intention acres in each block is prepared for the of obtaining land thereon will be allowed settler before entry, and he is assisted a concession of half rates on the New with cheap material for his fences and South Wales railways. Persons who buildings; the cost of which may be paid have taken up an irrigation block will off by annual instalments. He finds also be allowed half rates for themselves roads made to his farm. Three factor- , and their families, and such belongings, ies—for butter, bacon-curing and fruit- including livestock, as were in their pos- canning, are already in the area, where session immediately prior to the making the settlers' products are treated and of the application for land, when jour- prepared for market at a moderate neying to take up their residence on the charge. State demonstration farms have land secured. been established near the irrigation area, . Savings Bank where various commercial plants are From the Government tested as to their suitability for cultiva- settlers may obtain loans of money at not exceeding 5 tion by the irrigation settlers. The ex- cheap rates of interest, perience of the experts at these farms per cent. is always placed at the disposal of new- The Murrumbidgee Valley will, in a comers. From the State nursery set- few years, carry a large population. On tlers may receive horticultural stocks this model settlement the most desirable guaranteed true to name and free from forms of modern social life will evolve. 344' THE MID-PACIFIC.

The Rice Fields of Hawaii. The Story of Rice in Hawaii

Rice is King in Hawaii. This is a bold The growing of rice occupies 10,0001 statement to make for it is a contested or more acres, and as practiced in Ha- honor in Hawaii as to what is King. waii it is an intensive rather than an ex- Sugar, of course, so long as it is pro- tensive culture, 100 acres constituting a tected by tariff, is financial King of the large plantation. The rental of rice lands- Islands. are high, ranging from $10 to $50 per Give a bounty of five cents a pound acre per annum with water privileges. . and Coffee would become King, and This necessitates careful and continuous. every coffee grower in the island ter- culture to produce maximum crops, al- ritory a rich man. Someday Pineapples though the annual acre yields in Hawaii may produce the monied barons of the compare favorably with the best in the- islands ; the fact is that pineapple planta- world. Two crops a year are usually tions in Hawaii are already doing so, but grown on the same land, thus occupying each of these products if Hawaii were the ground continuously, especially when• isolated would he useless. The people slow-maturing varieties are grown. would have to fall back on Taro or rice The usual practice is to propagate the for subsistence, and rice would become seedlings in seed beds, from which the king. entire crop is transplanted by hand. Rice, while second to sugar as an agri- Tillage methods, while antiquated, are cultural product and far below it in mag- thorough, as is also the practice of irri- nitude and value, is still the most exten- gation and drainage. To a limited extent sively consumed in Hawaii of any prod- the application of fertilizers is followed. uct of the land. If every other crop The sickle is used in reaping, thrashing should fail and supplies from the main- for the most part is done by the treading- land be cut off, the subsistence of its in- of horses, and the grain is winnowed by habitants would be assured by this one hand. staple crop. The average annual yield (two crops> 345 346 THE MID-PACIFIC. z bn Water Buffalo. THE MID-PACIFIC. 347 on good lands in favorable localities, is valuable cereal. There are 12,000 square 6,000 pounds of paddy per acre, while miles in the coast rice belt, but much of 8,000 pounds or more is not uncommon. the soil requires artificial irrigation. The At 'present prices, which are exception- installation of electric pumps is to meet ally good, an acre will produce a crop this need. Adaptations of the gang plow, valued at from $100 to $200. the steam drill, the twine binder and the The estimated annual value of the Ha- steam thresher have also been perfected waiian rice crop in a favorable year is for use in the rice fields, and the industry approximately $2,500,000. will now, it is expected, take rank with From a picturesque standpoint rice wheat growing as one of the most pro- planting in Hawaii is• full of attraction gressive branches of American agricul- to the stranger. The terraced plotted rice ture. fields are always a delight to the eye. Where would our sugar industry be if The quaint method of cultivation by Chi- we had retained the primitive methods of nese men, women and children in their cultivation and manufacture which ob- native costumes is picturesque in the ex- tained some forty to fifty years ago. It treme. In one part of the field a Chinese is by keeping abreast of the times, in- woman is pumping, by primitive wooden creasing production, reducing cost of pro- lift, water from one level to a higher. duction, economizing by the use of the In another a Chinese boy is driving the best machinery, so that we get the utmost horse over the grain, in another China- amount of saccharine matter from the men in their great sun hats are reaping juice, that we obtain the results which we the rice with sickles, and in still another find so satisfactory. Progress has been field the yellow men are plowing with our watchword in the sugar industry and water buffalo in mud up to their bellies. we have reaped our reward. Progress is The leading newspapers of the islands not our watchword in the rice industry. would see the picturesque abolished and Methods, and very clumsy methods, the utilitarian adopted, to the exclusion, which have been used by orientals for perhaps, of the picturesque Oriental, and thousands of years are clung to. the turning over of rice culture to the A description of the methods of rice unpicturesque white man who tills and culture in the mainland rice belt will open reaps by machinery. The Commercial the eyes of the rice planters here. In the Advertiser of Honolulu editorialized re- first three months of the year the rice cently in the following language : fields are plowed, whether the land is wet During last legislature we were warned or dry. Great gang plows, drawn by that our rice industry was threatened un- oxen or mules, hasten the work. Plant- less we did something towards improving ing is well under way by May 1. It is our methods of cultivation. If the price done with a drilling machine, which puts of rice goes down, the price of the land the rice in at a regular depth, permitting upon which the rice is cultivated will go it all to grow and ripen at the same time. down, and some one will feel the pinch. In June the flood gates are opened and Rice land is now bringing from thirty to the water pours out of the main canals fifty dollars an acre. If rents ceased to and lateral ditches. The pumping sta- be so remunerative, the owners, many of tions are in operation night and day, whom are native Hawaiians, would find some of the largest ones feeding 25,000 that their incomes had fled. Our rice acres. The depth of water on the fields cultivation is carried on in the primitive varies from one to six inches, according manner of China, and it is claimed that to the rise and fall of the land. A only Chinese can cultivate the cereal. thorough saturation is all that is re- This is being disproved on the mainland. quired; an excessive quantity will neither According to an article in the Ameri- profit nor harm the plant. The rice can Exporter, the introduction of ma- springs up with surprising rapidity, and chinery is what bids fair to give an im- it is not long before the drainage gates mense impetus to the cultivation of this can be opened and the field cleared. The 348 THE MID—PACIFIC.

czt i ene Sc ld Fie ice R l a ic T p ■ THE MID-PACIFIC. 349 ground dries out rapidly, and soon the rice association, to every rice growing. heavy self-binders can be set to work. country of the world to study and report They are supported by wheels of extra on conditions. Hawaii was the last place width to prevent cutting into the soft of call, and while in Honolulu he stated earth. The rice is shocked, as is wheat that rice culture in the United States had or oats, and will dry out in ten days so reached such proportions that if it keeps as to be ready for threshing. on growing the supply will soon be The cleaning of rice, and its prepara- largely above the demand. In order that tion for market, is carried on in a very rice may be more generally used as a primitive manner on some plantations food, we thought we would show how and better upon others. We do not use good it is. First we had a rice kitchen universally the one-man power mill, the installed at the Buffalo exposition, this man jumping on and off the beam of the kitchen became a fad and we could not pounder, nor do we have the one-woman supply the demand for the meals. So power winnowing machine, with a capac- much rice was eaten there and in the city, ity of eleven bushels a day. But then on that the sales in Buffalo were doubled. the other hand we do not have the For instance, if a family has turkey, the American automaton of complicated ma- stuffing could be of rice, and so on. chinery where the rough rice passes in Rice as a sole food is perhaps not of at one end and out at the other, graded, the value of wheat, but when used in sacked and weighed for the market at the connection with other foods, rice is equal, rate of from 20,000 to 200,000 pounds a if not saperior, to wheat, all things con- day, according to the capacity of the mill. sidered. In the first place, when properly If our rice industry is to hold its own, cooked, it digests in one hour, while most we shall have to do away with Oriental cereals require from two and one-half to methods, and adapt ourselves to Ameri- three and one-half hours. A weak diges- can methods. The day is at hand when tion could be fed on rice and be built up, the rice industry will cease to be Orien- and a strong digestion would be greatly tal or will cease altogether. aided. Rice is particularly valuable when The fact remains, however, that it has used with beef. The latter contains too here been the patience and industry of the much nitrogen when used as a sole food, Oriental that has made the culture of rice but with rice the nitrogenous effects are in Hawaii a success. It is also a fact that largely nullified. Rice is an excellent the sons of the Oriental in Hawaii are food for a tropical country. It can be being educated in the schools and col- kept for a long time, and is readily pre- leges of Hawaii and that they are quickly pared. adopting the methods of the white man, and this combined with the thrift and in- I compare the human body to a loco- dustry of the yellow man gives the latter motive. The latter must have good fuel con- a strong advantage when it comes to a to make good steam, otherwise it is final contest of who shall be king of the stantly out of repair. In my opinion, rice rice fields in Hawaii. is the best fuel for the body, for it is even tempered and produces energy, which The Chinese brought rice culture to takes the place of the steam in the loco- Hawaii more than half a century ago, and motive. You put fats under a boiler and have ever since remained in control of they sputter, flare up and down, do not its cultivation and output. There are 240 evenly; and the boiler is In distribute heat different methods of preparing rice. often ruined. the United States in the larger cities rice kitchens are established by the rice grow- Rice is lacking only in frame-building ers' associations to demonstrate in just materials. It answers for energy, but how many ways rice can be used. lacks in properties for building up the The federal government of the United system. But that repair material is found States sent a special agricultural com- in abundance in the leaves of vegetable missioner, who was also president of the plants--garden seeds contain an excess

-4--M. P. 350 THE MID-PACIFIC.

ht, ig N by e ic R ing Sow THE MID-PACIFIC. • 351 of it. The tops of vegetables contain eluding old and young people ; the adult more nitrogen than the roots, and are of uses over 400 pounds. real value as a food. Particularly in One of the most magnificent features tropical countries the people eat bean of the relief of the beleaguered ones in tops and rice. This is especially true in Peking, was the march of the Japanese India, China and Japan. The following troops to the Imperial City. It is well are excellent combinations : Eggs and known that the, Japanese arrived there in rice, beets and rice, beans and rice. the best condition, and the world was sur- But you people here do not get the prised at the high state of discipline and fine-flavored rice they produce in the endurance to which they had been great rice-eating countries. In the mill- trained. That Japanese detachment ing process the outer shell, which is marched to Peking on a rice diet. Rice highly nitrogeneous, is removed, so that was their principal article of food, and the kernel of rice can be polished until they thrived on it. It was not a scientific it has a pearly appearance. This outer ration, such as most of the other nations shell is highly prized in Oriental coun- provided for their soldiers, but a simple, tries, and the rice is therefore much plain food, and the results are certainly sweeter than what you usually buy. worth the attention of army experts. Considerable rice is raised here, but at Rice is King, of foods at least, in Ha- the same time the rice-eating population waii, it is also king of picturesque prod- will largely prefer the rice from their ucts in the growing. Taro is an ever- own countries. The Chinaman carries lasting green in its bed of water, but rice with him, not only his habits, but his changes ever from the most brilliant country's rice as well, and singularly green to the brightest sunshine yellow. enough, the Chinese in the United States An army of many thousands will oc- are importing 35,000,000 pounds of rice cupy Hawaii in time of peace. Rice annually, although they can buy Ameri- enough to feed the largest army for all can rice much cheaper. The average time may raised in the Hawaiian Islands, American only consumes about four where nature and necessity seem to in- pounds of rice a year. The average Jap- dicate that rice is their candidate for anese consumes about 250 pounds, in- king. THE MID-PACIFIC.

i. ar ng Su he t On After Big Game in Manchuria

BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD

We left New York, my friend Friede convicts. There is one millionaire exile and I, to find the Russians in Central in Irkutsk who has his house scoured Manchuria, and incidentally to bag any once a week from top to bottom with legitimate game that came our way. It champagne, to advertise his wealth. He was during the first Russian invasion of gives thousands to universities and col- Manchuria, and my companion, who leges to show his appreciation of culture ; spoke Russian like a native, declared that but among the hundred uncouth, low- he would capture the Russians, bag and browed men in the forward hold of our baggage, and hang their scalps in the transport, there was not one who did not wigwams of the American manufactur- appear, at first glance, deserving of his ers. He spoke metaphorically, but his fate ; in fact they were murderers, all experiences were graphically real before on their way to Saghalien, and it was he collared the engineers in Central only because of the fact that an ortho- Manchuria who were surveying the rail- dox priest had taken passage on this ves- way that was afterward built of Ameri- sel, hoping to be in time to celebrate can materials, thanks to the daring of my Easter services at the new Port Arthur friend Friede from New York. church, that we were not assassinated in It was in the springtime that we found our berths and thrown overboard as food ourselves at Nagasaki, ready to begin our for the sharks that frequent the muddy- venturesome trip. A Russian convict looking waters of the Yellow Sea. transport arrived in the harbor from Father. Ivan was no more cleanly in his Odessa, and being informed that this habits than the average Russian priest. would be the only vessel leaving for Port (I was given the use of the ship's bath- Arthur in some time, we embarked. room in which to develop my negative's, I have met most excellent citizens in as it never had been used, and the cap- Siberia who have served their time as tain was certain it never would be.) But 353 354 THE MID-PACIFIC.

hus. Manc hern t r No THE MID-PACIFIC. 355

Father Ivan was always a picturesque tails, that Father Ivan noticed the wind sight, whether pacing the quarter deck in blow from the hands of a convict who his long blue cassocks, with bronze hair was passing it to a confederate. Both made desperate efforts to re- flowing down to his shoulders, or when prisoners giving his blessing at table, with upraised gain the scrap of paper, but their move- hands and eyes in imitation of the pic- ments were hampered by their chains, and Providence landed the tell-tale plans ture of Christ one sees on every ikon, or holy picture, in Russia, for it is the at the feet of the priest. After that there aim of the orthodox priest to look like the were no more fresh-air promenades for at Master whom he devotedly serves. the government wards up fore, and The convicts had been brought from Nagasaki a hundred Cossacks were Russia by way of the Suez Canal, prac- marched aboard. tically without military escort, although The Cossacks were good company for in the hold aft, just below the first-class the convicts, they exchanged tales of ad- quarters, more than a hundred peasants, venture, and I have no doubt there was men, women and children, were huddled sincere regret in the breast of more than together, patiently awaiting the arrival of one Cossack than men capable of taking the ship at a Manchurian port, for they such desperate chances had not succeeded were the advance guard of a colony the in their designs ; while the peasants ever Czar had ordered planted along the line pitying the lot of the exile, made their of the railway to be built northward from close confinement more endurable by Port Arthur. The convicts were not so sharing with them their own scanty fare. resigned, however ; capital punishment As one Cossack officer put it in terse Rus- being abolished in Russia and two years sian, "One must expect these things, the longest term any one may be kept in what is to be will happen." Not a month close confinement, these men were more later ten of his men were massacred in than willing to attempt a wholesale Manchuria, and I have often wondered slaughter of passengers and crew, know- if he was among the slain. ing that if detected their punishment . We landed our convict cargo, then would not be augmented, while if their made our way to Newchwang on the gulf plan proved successful, absolute freedom of Pechili, about half-way between Port would be their reward. Daily the con- Arthur and Peking. To the north was victs discussed the plot and passed the the great Manchurian country, and details to each other as they were brought somewhere far beyond Moukden, the up from the hold, two at a time, for ex- Manchu capital, the Russian engineers ercise. It was all arranged that at a were encamped, presumably near the given midnight signal, when the ship was Sungari River, but no one knew their among the thousands of islands off Ko- exact whereabouts. rea, there was to be a concerted attack In vain my companion sought to en- gage a cavalcade for his proposed jour- on the guards. The guards overpow- ered, the crew was to be murdered, the ney, the Chinese refused absolutely to in- passengers made to walk the plank, and vade the land of the Manchu's, report- the ship wrecked on one of the rocky ing that every few miles a different dia- islands. These desperate men were lect was spoken, and that not being able quite willing to take their chances of to make themselves understood they swimming ashore, and perhaps finally would be massacred with their master, one by one, from island to the "white devil." Or, even if they es- escaping them island, to the mainland or Japan. Not caped massacre, no one would sell being provided with pen and ink, the food, and the highwaymen would make traverse leader, who was a semi-educated man, short work of the party. To wrote out the details with a splinter of the country alone on horseback was im- wood dipped in his own blood, and it was possible, as copper cash being the only this scrap of paper, on which were writ- coin current among the peasants, it would ten in letters of scarlet a few brief de- take more than a horse load of these to 356 THE MID—PACIFIC. THE MID-PACIFIC. 357

purchase provisions en route. At last, in American dollar, and they must be pur- despair, Mr. Friede sought a young Chi- chased for silver from the money chang- nese linguist in the Imperial telegraphic ers. The commander's first experience office. It was the business of Hi Ho with one of these Manchu money chang- Yung to understand a score of North ers was his last. He chopped off a piece Asian dialects ; he did not minimize the of silver, offered it in exchange, was difficulties, but intimated that like all told that it was worth but 2,700 cash, ac- Chinamen he was in the service for what cepted the offer, and the Manchu money there was to be gotten out of it. A bar- changer indignantly put up his scales and gain was struck, the Imperial telegraph refused to have anything more to do with service lost one of its best men, and by a man whose silver was so impure that dint of hard work and wonderful prom- he would not bargain. After that it was ises, Hi Ho Yung secured a scared, always necessary to give Hi a day off struggling outfit of some ten or twelve whenever change was needed. He was coolies, while friend Friede obtained for always successful (after some hours of himself from the Viceroy a brilliant red haggling) in securing within the fraction • passport, fully three feet in length, and of a cent the value of a piece of "tempta- the little cavalcade began its weary tion," while his employer would have march. gladly taken 50 per cent. off to save the Difficulties began at once. The line of time it always took to allay the suspicions march, now the route of the completed of the Manchu money changers. Chinese Eastern Railway, and the line of The fact that at the crossroads heads of battle between the Russians and the Jap- highwaymen were often seen decorating anese, was in the spring of 1896 a mere sign-posts was not reassuring, for it indi- barren trail never before followed by any cated that the craft was in a flourishing white man. Children threw stones at the condition thereabout. And as the Man- strange creature with a beard, or hid be- chus never grease an axle, the presence hind trees, the peasants dropped their of a cavalcade is advertised long in ad- wooden .plows and fled from the approach vance of its arrival, while the shrieking of the "white devil." axles also serve to give highwaymen an The nights were spent in deserted Joss invitation to follow unobserved until a fit- houses, for the mandarins, while fearing ting moment arrives for an attack. If a the blazing red passport of the Viceroy, wagon with well-greased axles ap- feared still more the wrath of the towns- proached a village, the Manchus took it men. Often the little party lay barri- as evidence conclusive that it must belong caded within the Joss house, while the to a highwayman's outfit trying to move mandarin harangued his countrymen upon them unobserved, and the owners without, pleading with them not to bring are dealt with accordingly. No one who down punishment on his head by killing has ever heard the ear-splitting shrieks the "white devil" and his servants, a fate, in his opinion, they doubtless deserved, emitted by the greaseless axle of Manchu wagons can form any adequate idea of and would surely meet in another vil- lage not under his jurisdiction. the carrying power of the sounds. In A wagon load of cash does not go far, Manchuria, where no roads existed until and soon it became necessary to fall back the Russians took possession, generations on the silver revenue. This was carried ploughed through the mud in winter and in the form of "temptations," or lumps the smothering dust in summer. Except of silver in shape of a Chinese woman's for the element of danger, the trip was shoe, and worth about $90 each, more or a tedious one indeed. The only occasional less, according to weight and the rate of excitement was a chance pheasant hunt exchange. Every one is now familiar and the consequent possibility of straying with the Chinese cash of brass with the beyond earshot of the shrieking wagons, square hole in the centre for stringing the which my friend did on the one occasion coin ; it takes 1,200 of these to make an when he was lost in the wilds of Man- 35$ THE MID-PACIFIC.

ia. r hu nc Ma in ld ie F t Whea A THE MID-PACIFIC;. 359 churia and had his first adventure with of the white man who had been robbed. the highwdymen. here was a prompt refusal which was In the excitement of bagging the mag- met with a protest trom Hi. nificent specimens of golden pheasant to "You must carry the sentence into be found wild in Northern China, the effect," he said, "or your coolies will lose hunter forgot to listen for the ungreased all respect for you and kill you for your axle, and his attendant, of course, relied money before we are ten miles-away from on the wisdom of the white man and his this village." pocket compass to find the way back to The mandarin also stormed and in- the cash wagon. Night was falling when sisted, the criminal bared his neck, and the Yankee sportsman realized his plight Hi placed the sword of the executioner —lost in the midst of Manchuria. In in his master's hand, but the master's vain he fired his gun at random and nerve failed him ; he exchanged the shouted. Two hours' walking only sword for his walking stick, belabored served to bring the man and his servant the culprit soundly and told him to go face to face with several rough-looking home. But the poor fellow never left the or Manchus, who, in answer to signs, village. No one would speak to him pointed out a direction in which they ex- give him food. He was driven out into plained the two wagons had gone, and the fields and worked to death as a horse rode off for reinforcements. almost before the shrieking of the grease- The trail was, of course, the wrong less axle of the fateful cash wagon died away in the distance, under the guidance one, and it was not until morning that hunter Friede thought he spied the tracks of a new driver. of a wagon. Several hours later he Even the natives, unless highwaymen, dragged himself into a village, where, knew nothing of travel in those benighted surrounded by a crowd of natives, he saw days of only a few years since. It was one of his wagons, and the driver of the impossible to find a man who had ever other grovelling in the dust, calling upon gone a greater distance from his home . Each village the gods of his forefathers to slay him than to the nearest village. for permitting the highwaymen to rob was surrounded by a wall. and each vil- him of his master's cash wagon. With- lage possessed an odor of its own that ascended to high heaven and spread out out provisions or money in an unknown land, and surrunded by hostile savages over the surrounding country ; the was no pleasant predicament in which to strongest smell invariably led to the city find himself, but so abject was the poor gate. It was in one of the larger towns, driver's grief, the dejected sportsman after the little cavalcade was worn out took pity and explained to him that he with a month of marching, that an inci- was forgiven. Instantly the man leaped dent took place that promised to culmi- to his feet, and announced that as he was nate in a tragedy. Hi spoke to the na- of no further use to his master he would tives as he led the way through the open gate, but they turned away with angry go home. "Good bye," said Friede. scowls and would answer none of his "Hold the man!" said Hi, "he has questions. In vain he tried all the dia- robbed you and hidden the wagon ; the lects with which he was familiar ; then men who lagged behind with him are his cash was distributed in perfect showers, which caused an army of shouting fana- accomplices." the mandarin's The mandarin insisted on taking a tics to bar the way to hand in the investigation, and Chinese palace. Refuge was sought in a joss methods of coercion forced a confession house, the capture of which was easily from the luckless driver. The wagon effected, and, arms in hand, the little was found hidden in a wood, and the band spent the night listening to the ex- mandarin having, according to Chinese cited Manchurians' yelling and shrieking law, proved his prisoner guilty, sen- without. When morning came the crowd tenced him to be beheaded by the hand was still wildly gesticulating, but the 360 THE MID-PACIFIC.

On the Way. white man ordered his trembling coolies gates as a mark of esteem in honor of the to unbar the doors and follow him in a stranger who had been so liberal in the charge on the city gate. To his aston- distribution of his wealth. The gates ishment the crowd melted away and was were opened, and the natives, now un- soon lost to view, but on arriving at the derstanding Hi's vernacular, pointed city gate the whole town seemed gathered northward as the direction from which a there, and the gate was closed. The white man raised his gun to fire on a man had once come with the story of a leader of the Manchus who sprang to- mighty river flowing among the moun- ward him, but Hi placed his hand on his tains. master's arm and pleaded with him not to It seemed as though the perilous trip fire, while the beaming Manchu looked had been made for naught—the Sungari inquiringly down the muzzle of the rifle River possibly but a week's march away, and called his companions to come and and no sign of the Russian engineers. see the strange instrument. The man- But then, after all, the journey was but darin's palanquin was now seen making a gamble at best. However, a few days its way through the crowd, the big red later, a surveying party of Russian en- passport was got ready, and, with many gineers sprang to arms out there in wild bows, his lordship, the mandarin ex- Manchuria merely upon hearing from an plained that his people had closed the adjacent hilltop the familiar "Kak vaches THE MID-PACIFIC. 361 sdoravik" (how is your health), in purest est postroad and telegraph station. Russian. Specifications and orders were placed on the wire for transmission by cable to The American, who had traveled half- New York, and while the commercial way round the world to talk with these agents of Europe were waiting for the men, was face to face with his quarry. engineers to emerge from the wilderness He lost no time, trial orders were se- of Manchuria, American foundries and cured for American track-laying tools machine shops were working night and and every kind of Yankee labor-saving day to fill the Orders of the man, whose machinery. Giving the engineers his work accomplished, leisurely drifted notes on the route he had traversed down the Sungaria and Armour rivers northward from Newchwang, the hunter by native junk, to enjoy once more the hurried his cavalcade onward to the near- pleasures of civilization. 362 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Interior of a Samoan Church. Church Life in the South Seas

BY HUGH M. POLWORTH

I have visited one land where it is in building of more churches. I could un- violation of the law to erect a church derstand why he, a German governor, edifice. had, unon taking over the islands, made There are probably more churches in British cricket illegal in Samoa. I could proportion to the population in Samoa even understand the common sense that than anywhere else in the world. Every prompted the British missionaries to Samoan is a Christian, and the chief thank him, for I knew that there were missionary effort in the islands nowa- cricket games between villages upon days is to keep their sheep from wander- which were wagered the possession of ing off to other folds ; for Catholics, of each village, including the food sup- Protestants of various denominations plies for months to come, but it was not and Mormons are all most active in the until I had made a "Melanga" (voyage) work of proselyting. Over in Fiji the through the island villages that I began work is systematically marked out, and to understand why some of the mission- there is no poaching or sheep stealing. aries sided with the German governor The same is true of the still cannibalistic and applauded his ruling with regard to New Heorides, although the Salvation the construction of new churches. Army has reecntly entered the field, but If there is a village in Samoa that nowhere in the South Seas save in q2 - does not possess from one to half a moa has the government felt itself called dozen solidly built coral rock church edi- upon to pass laws prohibiting the build- fices I do not recall having passed ing of additional church edifices, but through its single street. Villages have this the Germans have done in Samoa. gone bankrupt, mortgaging their in At first I was astonished to learn that for years to build a church a little the German governor had forbidden the more imposing than the one in the next 363 364 THE MID-PACIFIC.

A Samoan Native Church. r THE MID-PACIFIC. 365

village. A strict taboo is placed on all erect a new church without first deposit- cocoanuts belonging to the community, ing one thousand dollars with the gov, and for three or four years no one in ernment, to be returned when the church the village may eat a cocoanut or drink edifice was completed. its milk. The cocoanuts belong to the This interference of state with church church and must be sold to the copra seemes to most Samoans as eminently traders, who have perhaps financed the wise, for now if a church is built there building of the new edifice. Of course, is a thousand-dollar surplus. returned to the tax is placed on all by common con- the villages to be used for purchasing sent. First the Methodist church is to supplies while the taboo is in force upon be built ; the chief calls the men together the cocoanuts, which are both food and and they vote—the church is built—and money in Samoa. Moreover, the pater- perhaps in time the Catholics gain con- nalistic German government watches the verts, for an unpopular pastor is excuse chiefs out of the corner of its all-seeing enough for many Samoans to change eye and often interferes in behalf of the their faith. common people. Everyone in Samoa The Catholics ask for a church, and must plant a certain number of cocoa- the chiefs call a meeting of the men. nuts every year. And so far as Mor- Everyone votes to taboo (or set aside monism is concerned the government is as sacred) the cocoanuts of the village waiting merely for some lapse on the until the Catholic church is paid for. No part of the Latter Day Saints to "taboo" one would think of voting against this entirely this rev–Hr from Yankeeland measure, for fear of being looked upon in Samoa. as selfish. Perhaps before the Catholic church is It is a peculiar thing, but Mormonism paid for the Mormons make headway, in Samoa does bear many of the ear- and want a church built for their use ; marks of Americanism. Industry and then the Methodists or Presbyterians remorseless energy are the constituents discover that not only is their church out of its cornerstone,, and religion is rele- of repair, but that the next village is gated to a secondary place. No one is building a church finer and more com- accepted as a Mormon unless he is will- modious than theirs. It becomes a mat- ing to work, and work hard, and as the ter of village pride now, and I know of Samoans are not lovers of hard work one Samoan village that to demonstrate the Latter Day Saints have periods of that it was not at the end of its resources dwindling. At present they have con- sent to Sydney for a white carpenter to centrated on the Island of Upolu. There, construct the church edifice, and the ad- far up in the bush where no Samoans joining village retorted by erecting a have existed, they have cleared a large church with a slate instead of a thatch area and have established a most suc- roof, and so it went, the villages grow- cessful industrial community. Their ad- ing poorer and poorer — men, women herents are trained to love work, and it and children suffering actual hunger. is a fact, I learn from the planters, that Churches needing but a little repair were their labor commands the highest prices abandoned, and others built on the scale paid on the islands. Splendid roads con- of a cathedral large enough for many nect the Mormons with the sea, and their Samoan communities. churches and school buildings are the The rivalry of church building became most solidly constructed in Samoa. Each the curse of the islands, the mission- of the Latter Day Saints is paid—and aries protested, and whole villages de- paid well—for clearing the land upon flected to some other denomination, and which he is to live. So long as he culti- built. Nothing could be done—not until vates his land it is his irrevocably, but the governor stepped into the breach once he ceases to make it fruitful it is and isued an order that no village could taken from him and given to someone

5—M. P. 366 THE MID-PACIFIC.

h. rc Chu ion iss M h Sea t Sou l ica p Ty A THE MID-PACIFIC. 367 else who will cultivate it up to its full teachers. It is a nart of their religious possibilities. duty, and no charge is made to the little In Hawaii I passed through the Mor- ones who are collected from everywhere mon settlement, where a thousand of in the village to make the school house the best workers in our island territory their home, visiting their parents several cultivate sugar cane and have built the times a day perhaps. It is at the church second largest church in Hawaii. In school that the children learn to sing Samoa I again find American industry hymns and psalms, and as the Samoans personified in the Morman community, are ever singing, everyone becomes re- and I trust that I am just enough to ad- ligious. mire their industry—if not their theol- Over in Fiji I found many enthusias- ogy—and hold it up as an example tic Christians communities, and some worthy of emulation by all men. that were not, but nowhere in Samoa, The Samoan is not content with pub- Fiji, or the New Hebrides, where can- lic worship once a week ; he would glad- nibalism is still practised, will a native ly hold daily services, and all day long ; work on the Sabbath. I have heard but the German authorities discourage white Christian captains rage and swear this. However, in every Samoan home, at the heathens, but all to no effect. No evening song services are held, and often Sunday work in the South Sea Islands ; of a moonlight night the family gathers vessels remain unloaded at the wharves, outdoors and for hours sacred songs are and the very convicts refuse to handle sung. Every child in Samoa, it seemed cargo on a Sunday. to me, could put almost any of the psalms I tried life for a few days in a little to music and sing them through. The Fijian school village—but not being a father of the family usually begins the missionary, I could not enthuse. The service immediatel" after the evening little bamboo huts were of the flimsiest meal by reading one of the psalms—in character, for they are occupied only Samoan—and, even the children respond during the school season, and then every —without books—then perhaps there is year or so a hurricane sweeps all that is a chapter from the Bible, and if a native visible of the village off somewhere. teacher is present, the Scriptures are ex- Moreover, each male adult must give -pounded, and hours after the others have three weeks a year to gathering copra gone to bed, pater familias and the na- for the government, so often in the busi- tive teacher are still crouched on the est school season a vacation is ordered floor, the light between them, studying and the huts and school buildings are the Gospel. I do not hesitate to say that deserted entirely, until enough cocoa- -the Samoans, of all peoples I have been nuts are gathered to satisfy the govern- among, are apparently the most con- ment tax collectors. The Fijians have tinuously given to religious exercises. a church architecture all their own. In In almost every Samoan village is the Loma Loma, the metropolis of Fiji, I -church school ; you can tell it because it attended service in the cathedral church is the only one in the village divided into of the islands. I cannot say how many -two rooms. The little permanently in- it seated, but the church was crowded to 'closed room at the end is the teacher's. overflowing, everyone seated cross- The rest of the spacious open house is legged on the mat covering of the. floors, where the children sleep by night and the church being built very like the great learn their A, B, C's by day. There are temple of the Mormons at Salt Lake other and larger school houses also in City, only of grass, reeds and bamboo some of the villages. In fact, there are instead of bricks and mortar, a light, -many villages that exist only when this flying effect in this tropical clime that school house is open. The pupils are was truly in good taste and refreshing. grown men who come to study so that On the Reva River there is a Roman ,:they can go back to their own villages as Catholic Cathedral, a structure that 368 THE MID-PACIFIC.

ii. wa Ha l— era Fun h rc hu C A THE MID-PACIFIC. 369 might do credit to any American city of where the natives have received Christ- 100,000 inhabitants, yet there are not ianity so enthusiastically as in Samoa, five hundred souls to worship there, and and no place where it is so bitterly op- but a single little one-story school for posed than in the New Hebrides. Since the priests to administer to. 1838 they have been killing missionaries there, and they are still at it ; yet, not- For one interested in missions and withstanding this, the life of the mis- missionary work there is no cruise in all sionary in the South Seas today is a the world like that of the New Hebrides. pleasant and oftimes busy bit of exist- It is a two months' trip, during which a ence. Most of the missionaries' wives hundred islands and mission stations are act as teachers in the school, some of visited. Nowadays one may start on ti them being fully as useful as their bet- cruise from Sydney, Auckland, or Fiji. ter halves. But after all, as a layman, In the New Hebrides, still emerging were I permitted to criticize, I should from cannibalism, you may visit islands say that in my humble experience, based inhabited by Samoans, others on which on actual observance, the Medical mis- the Tongan tongue is in vogue, and still sion with its well equipped hospital is others where the Fijian is at home. the most useful and best beloved insti- There, too, are the "Jews" of Ambrin, a tution ever established in the South perfect type of Semitic people. Seas. At the mission hospital the On some of the islands there are traces tongue of the trader is silenced—I mean of Buddhism, on others something very so far as critcism of his brother is con- like Mohammedanism. It is here that cerned, and the old cannibal chief listens the natives of Ceylon and the Malay to words gratefully that at any other wandered to, by early stages at different time or place would fall upon unrespon- periods, and here to this day the Poly- sive ears. The missionaries make any nesian, driven out of his course by con- man's cruise in the South Seas a pleas- trary winds, lands, exhausted, after ant diversion, for the stations are fre- weeks in a small canoe upon the broad quent enough, nowadays, to give one an bosom of the ocean. Give me the New almost daily whiff of "Home," for after Hebrides for a study of the heathen be- all, even in the delights and dreaminess fore and after conversion to Christianity. of tropical life, it is the mingling of men I spent many many months cruising of a color that brings one back to what about the South Sea Islands, and leaving is best in himself, and the only home life Hawaii out of the question, I believe in the South Seas is, after all, congre- there is no place in all the entire Pacific gated about the churches. 370 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Tapa Beaters—Fiji. r The Legendary Origin of Kapa

BY W. D. WESTERVELT

Dr. Brigham, the director of the ing. Very little reference is made in Bishop Museum in Honolulu, well says the legends to the use of skins as cloth- "Kapa (or tapa) is simply ka, the, and ing, although the dog and pig were pa, beaten, or the beaten thing." brought with chickens by their early The cloth used for centuries by the ancestors. Hawaiians and some other Polynesians The clothing of the oldest time was was "the beaten thing" resulting from sometimes made by tying dried ba- beating the inner mucilaginous bark nana leaves around the body, and cov- of certain trees into pulp and then into erings were made by throwing dry ba- sheets which could be used for cloth- nana leaves over the body. Thus Ka- ing or covering. welo was warmed and brought back "The letters "k" and "t" have from to life according to one of the most time immemorial been interchangeable famous legends of the Island Kauai. among the Hawaiians, therefore the The long, fragrant leaves of the ti words kapa and tapa have both been plant were dried, soaked in water un- freely used as the name of the ancient til soft, the outside scraped off, then wood pulp cloth of the Hawaiians. fastened together by braiding or tying. The old people said that in the very In this way a very warm cloak was long ago their ancestors did not have made and worn by bird catchers. They anything like the kapa cloth which has found it' very good for shedding rain been known for many centuries. They and keeping out cold when they went said also that there was no kapa maoli, into the mountains. Sometimes the meaning that there was nothing in na- long leaves of the Lau-hala were ture which provided clothing or cover- thatched into covering for the body as 371 372 THE MID-PACIFIC. THE MID-PACIFIC. 373

-well as for the house. So also grass many references in other legends was braided into very fine cloaks as printed about the same time fill out well as mats. Banana leaves hanging the story. in strips like a fringe were used for Back of Honolulu a beautiful valley malos (loin cloths) for men, and pa-us rises in a gentle slope between two (skirts) for women. rugged, precipitous ranges of lava For many generations the art of mountains, until it reaches cloudland making most beautiful and costly fea- and drinks ceaselessly from the foun- ther garments has been known by the tains of the sky. A stream of laugh- Hawaiians. They braided or wove a ing water rising from waterfalls blown foundation mat of very fine vegetable into spray by swift winds, rushes and -fibres, such as the long threads of the leaps in numberless cascades through ieie vine. This mat was fashioned into pleasant groves down this valley of a mahiole or warrior's helmet, a kihei restful shadows until it is lost in the or shoulder cape or an ahuula or long coral reefs of an irridescent sea. cloak, and covered with the most bril- Th;s is the noted Nuuanu valley of liant red and golden feathers which winding ways loved by sightseers as could be secured from the Hawaiian the— climb to the grand outlook over forest birds. It is natural to suppose extinct craters, island coast, and that the most ancient people brought boundless ocean, called "The View the knowledge of kapa making with from Nuuanu Pali." them when they came from the origi- This was the valley supposed to nal home of the Polynesians. But in have been the first habitation of the the legend of Makuakaumana the gods gods from which all life spread over Kane and Kanaloa are represented as the island group. Here the gwomes or feeling pity for one of their worship- the eepa people had their home, and ers when they saw him shivering in a here the menehunes (the fairies) built fierce storm of cold rain ; therefore a temple for "the child adopted by the they taught him how to make a kihei gods." or shoulder cape. Great was the won- The waters of the valley stream made der of the people of the northern side productive large areas of fertile land of the Island of Oahu when he appear- where the valley broadened into the ed among them and taught them how large seaside plain in which now lies to make cloaks like "the gift of the the City of Honolulu. Here at a place gods." called Puiwa, by ,the side of the run- The legend is interesting, but only ning water, a farmer by the name of shows that the people some time Maikoha lived with his daughters learned how to make a work-day cloak. without any care beyond raising what- The Hawaiian method of pounding ever food they needed for themselves, the adhesive bark of certain trees until and for their tribute to the king and that bark becomes a pulpy mass and their offerings to the gods. then making and drying sheets was Years passed by and Maikoha be- used in Samoa and many other islands came weak and ill. The eepa people of the Pacific Ocean and also even in of the upper valley had always sent Mexico hundreds of years ago. Evi- driving rains and cold winds down the dently the Hawaiian brought the art valley, and Maikoha had cared little with him or learned it from the sea for them ; but the old man at last went rovers of about the tenth century. into the days of death feeling a chill, Nevertheless, the Hawaiian legend of which struck to his very heart. On the origin of kapa is a myth well worth his death-bed he called his daughters keeping on record in Hawaiian litera- and commanded them carefully to ture. It was partly published in a na- obey his words. He said : "When I tive paper, the Kuokoa, in 1865, but die, bury my body close to the waters 374 THE MID-PACIFIC.

a. Tong s— n ig Des he t ing k Ma THE MID-PACIFIC. 375 of our pleasant stream. A tree will kapa could be made ; but the old peo- grow from that burial place. This tree ple said : "From the wauke we get will be to you for kapa, from which the best kapa for fine, soft clothing." you will make all things good for Mai-koha became the chief Au-ma- clothing as well as covering when you kua, or ancestor-god, of the Hawaiian sleep or are ill. The bark of this tree kapa makers, and has been worshiped, is the part you will use." for generations. When they planted When death came, the daughters the wauke branches, or shoots, prayers buried their father by the running and incantations and sacrifices were water. After a time a tree grew from offered to Maikoha Before branches the grave. The daughters saw that were cut and placed in bundles to be it was a new tree such as they had carried to a field set apart for kapa never seen before. It was not tall and making, the favor of Maikoha: was large but threw out a number of small, again sought. spreading branches. This was the One of the daughters of Maikoha, Wauke tree. whose name was Lau-hu-iki, became The daughters with great fear drew the aumakua of all those who pounded near to this monument which was over the prepared bark, for to her was given their father's grave. They believed it the power of finding kapa in the bark was a gift from the aumakua, the of the wauke tree, and she had the ghost god, into which they supposed power of teaching how to pound as the spirit of their father had been well as bless the labor of those who changed. worshiped her. The other daughter, Laa-hana, was Reverently they touched the tree, also worshiped as an aumakua by broke off some of the branches, strip- those who used especially marked ped off the bark and pounded and clubs while beating the bark into pat- pounded until the pieces were fasten- terns or marked lines, for they said ed together in a rude kind of cloth. she learned how to scratch the clubs Thus they found kapa, "the beaten with shark's teeth so that marks would thing," and learned how to make it be left in the pounded sheets. She was into small and large pieces and out also able to teach those who worship- of these fashion such clothing as met ed her to mark figures or patterns on their need. the pounded kapa. Wherever they cut or broke the Thus Maikoha and his daughters branches of this new tree the broken became the chief gods of the kapa pieces took root—or if the fragments makers ; but other ancestral gods were were caught by the swift-flowing also found from time to time as some stream they were tossed on the bank new step was taken in perfecting the or carried and scattered over the plain art. and wherever they went they found a Ehu, a man, was made the aumakua place to plant themselves until they of kapa dryers, because he learned how grew even to the sea. to dip the cloth in dyes and give it Branches were carried to the other color. He discovered the red dye in islands ; thus the Wauke became a the blood of the kukui tree ; therefore blessing to all the people. The kapa prayers were offered to him and sacri- tree under the name aute, which is the fices laid on his altar when the kapa same as Wauke, was a blessing to maker desired to color some of the many Polynesians, from Tahiti to New work. Zealand. A small corner in a house in the kapa In after years, other trees, such as field usually had a very small pile of the mamaki, the irraa-loa and po-ulu, stones called "the altars." Here small were found to have bark from which offerings of leaves or fruit could be 376 THE MID-PACIFIC.

a. f Tap ll o Fu d A Yar THE MID-PACIFIC. 377 placed while the worshiper chanted his When the kapas were perfumed, they prayer. were dried inside a house so that the Kapa dyers searched forests for trees fragrance should not be lost. and plants which could give life blood Sometimes the kapas were well scraped for different dyes. The sap of these with pieces of shell or rubbed with plants was carefully put in bamboo joints stones, then were rolled in dirt and put and carried to the place where the in a calabash and well soaked for a long pounders sang and worked. time. When these kapas were washed, and scraped and pounded again, they be- Offerings of leaves and fruits maker flowers were made to Ehu from time to came very soft. Often the kapa time while the dyes were being collected would take these sheets of kapa and as well as when they were used to color spread them over a layer of cold, wet, the kapa. fresh-water moss, leaving them all night Sometimes the sheets were spotted by for the dew to fall upon. These kapas sprinkling colors over them. Sometimes became very bright and shining. Some- they were marked in lines and figures by times finished kapas were oiled so that using bamboo splints or bamboos with they became excellent protectors from ends pounded into brush-like fibres. the wet and cold of heavy mists and Stone cups were kept in the kapa fields rains. These oiled kapas were frequent- for the dye and the marking splint. ly varnished by being rubbed with eggs. Spider eggs were considered the best for Sometimes torn-up pieces of dyed this purpose. kapas were pounded up with new sheets, In the early time a flat stone was used producing a mottled effect. White kapas upon which to pound out the sheets of of the best texture were used in the tem- kapa, but blocks of wood and long, heavy of ples to cover the gods in certain parts sticks were found to give the best results. the temple ceremonies. They were also These were called kua-kuku. A block used to mark a strict tabu. When laid cut in a certain way was very much on an object, it meant that it was not to liked by the women for it gave back a be touched under pain of punishment by soft sound with the rhythmic beat of the the guarding aumakua. Fastened to a mallets, accompanied by their own staff and placed in a path it meant that chants and incantations to Maikoha or this path was tabu. It was in this way one of the other aumakuas. that tabu standards were placed around Hina, the mother of the demi-god the temples. Maui, was the great kapa maker of the A kapa dipped in a black dye was legends of the ancient Hawaiians. It is kept for the death covering, especially said that she still spreads her kapas in of those of very high rank. the sky. They are the beautiful clouds- Sometimes the perfumes of sweet of all colors, sometimes piled up and flowers or the oil of such trees as the sometimes lying in sheets. When fierce iliahi (sandalwood) were pounded into winds blow and lift and toss the cloud the kapa while it was being made. "The kapas and roll off the stones which Hina perfumes were made in this way. The has placed on them to hold them down,. sweet-smelling things were placed in a or when she throws off the stones her- calabash and covered with water. Hot self, the noise of the rolling stones is stones were put in the water and the the thunder which men hear. fragrance drawn out of the plants. The When Hina rolls the cloud sheets to- water was boiled away until the perfume gether, the folds glisten and flash in the became very strong. This was done with lighting of the sun, thus what men cal! the sweet-scented flowers of the niu lightning is the sunlight leaping from (cocoanut) and of the lau-hala, and the sheet to sheet of Hina's kapas in cloud- wood of the iliahi and other fragrant ' land. plants." 378 THE MID-PACIFIC.

A Typical City Scene. To Mexico City by Sea and Rail

BY A. J. VAN COOVER

Never has the law of contrasts and its ing morning, but the ship rolled heavily effect on one's happiness and well being and the skies were dull, with heavy been more forcibly impressed upon me showers that drove us off the decks. than on a trip by water from San Fran- And still our spirits drooped ! Next cisco to Mexico. It was the rainy sea- morning the clouds broke ; gradually the son in California when I left there. For sun shone through, and life began to weeks we had hardly caught a glimpse take on a brighter hue, in keeping with of the sun, and we drove down to the the genial warmth which increased and docks through deep mud and struggled grew more lasting as we glided along on board in wind that nearly blew us off over seas that had also grown calm, the gangplank. The last of the loading every day bringing us nearer to the was going on, which gave the steamer tropics, to the land where at that season an uninviting appearance. It was still of the year the skies are always cloud- raining when the boat got under way. less. The ship's officers, without excep- We stood under dripping umbrellas and tion, did everything possible for our waved a sad farewell to the few friends comfort, and the little party of passen- who had braved the elements and come gers gathered together in the sunshine down to see us off. Near the entrance in friendly intercourse, those who had to the harbor we dropped anchor again, visited Mexico before giving the rest of for the sea was too rough to permit of us the benefit of their experience. Most our going outside and all that night we of them were going in search of adven- lay within sight of the city lights. We ture or gold, but in spite of the uncer- made a more successful start the follow- tainty of the future, all were bent on 379 380 THE MID-PACIFIC.

The Cathedral—Mexico. THE MID-PACIFIC. 381 making the most of this little breathing patios and the heavily-grated windows space before the struggle began, and we were new to me then, while the mule seemed a carefree, happy lot. cars afforded me considerable amuse- We were in sight of land the first day : ment. There is a pretty plaza, which was high hills with here and there a little decorated at that time for an approach- town. Then we lost it for a day and ing fiesta, and a rather nice old church. picked it up again as we passed by the But best of all was the drive by the sea. coast of Lower California, barren, desert We rattled over rough, cobbled streets, land, but with cliffs that were tinted with by a small park, and on past an old fort rich reds and soft greens, touched as where General Diaz made a famous they were by the warm sunshine. At stand now so many years ago, on around night the moon rose early, throwing a the sea. A refreshing breeze blew about bright band of light across the waters. us, and the waters dashed up over the Certainly nothing more conducive to shore, with the rocks stretching, sharp perfect rest could be imagined than those and pointed, far out into the sea. On six days before our first port was reach- around by the terminus of the railway ed and we dropped anchor at Mazatlan. that will connect Mazatlan with the The harbor of Mazatlan is one of ex- capital city before very long, and then ceptional beauty, and when the dredging back by the Camino Real. As far as eye now contemplated is finished and the could reach, this broad, white road breakwater built, it will be one of the stretched away in the distance, a ribbon finest on the Pacific Coast. At present of dust, with burros and their drivers it is apt to be rough there and not al- coming and going along it, the little ani- ways safe. High, beetling cliffs rise mals almost lost under their great loads. sharply out of the blue waters, while the Some of them had big mounds of hay shore of the deep, curving bay is lined and only the tiny head and feet could with palms and cocoanuts, half hiding be seen ; others werc laden with wood, the pretty little town, and farther in the charcoal and all variety of produce. background is a faint outline of moun- Heavy carts, drawn by three or five di- tains. On the point at one side of the minutive mules or by a pair of slow- harbor is built the lighthouse, and on moving oxen, passed along the road ; the other a small observatory. men on horses or mules, with their big A swarm of little boats quickly gath- Mexican saddles and heavy spurs, and ered around the steamer and, after the others who walked, all coming and go- doctor and customs officers had visited ing along the great highroad. us, we took one of these boats and were Our next stopping place was San rowed over to the landing place, some Blas, which we reached early the follow- two miles distant. The scene on the ing morning. The harbor is pleasing, wharf was full of bright color ; a couple though it lacks the grandeur of Mazat- of officers from the Mexican gunboat lan. A long point of sandy beach ex- lying in the harbor were just starting tends into the sea at one end and bends back in a smart little boat manned by in a deep bay, while all along the shore sailors all in white ; men and women, are palms and cocoanuts, almost entire- usually of strong Indian mixture or pure ly hiding the town. Indian, with smiling, animated faces, There was a race of lighters for first the former in the typical costume of place at the ship's side, with an amusing white cotton with bright colored zarape mix-up of boats and oars in the eager- and sombreros of enormous size, made ness of the rowers to be in good posi- up a picture of great interest to one just tion. Finally, they rounded the stern of arrived from the more colorless life of the vessel and pulled alongside ; then, the United States. as our people were not ready for them, The town is built after the usual fash- all stretched out in the hot sunshine for ion in Mexico. The big, flower-filled a sleep and rest after their hard work.

6—M. P. 382 THE MID-PACIFIC.

Country come to Town. THE MID-PACIFIC. 383

A little later the loading began ; sacks gether and probabl— forgot the cause of and boxes of all dimensions were tied their dispute in a bottle of aguardiente. together and let down over the ship's One more day on board and then I side into the nearest lighter, while the bade a regretful farewell to my travel- men in the other boats slept and waited ing companions and left the boat at their turn. Manzanillo. Here extensive harbor Several of us took one of the small works are in course of construction boats hanging about the ship, and a fif- which have transformed it into a safe teen minutes' row brought us to the and excellent harbor. The approach is shore. The wharf was crowded with very beautiful, and the town, built natives busy unloading the lighters as against the mountain side, is extremely they came in from the steamer ; beasts picturesque, though it does not tempt of burden they looked to us, unused as one to linger. Back of the town, how- we were to see such heavy weights car- ever, is a lake of considerable extent ried on the head and shoulders of one and beauty, which would make a delight- man. ful site for residences. We walked up a dusty road to the vil- The trip to Colima is not particularly lage, which is one of the most primitive interesting so far as the scenery is con- to be found anywhere in Mexico. There cerned, though one sees the native life are a few adobe houses, but most of them to perfection. At each station women are mere shacks of cane with pointed, and children came to the car windows thatched roofs. We bought cocoanuts in sellir— little cakes, fruits or sweets of a tiny shop, which an Indian chopped up some kind, while a crowd of men leaned with his sharp machete, tried strange against walls or convenient posts and re- fruits in the market place, wandered garded us with a kind of stolid interest. into one of the houses to see what were Here and there was a little group of their methods of cooking, and to get a shacks or a larger village. The country batch of tortillas. Presently five sharp for most part was barren and inches whistles warned us of the approaching thick with dust, broken in places by a departure of the steamer, and we hur- pretty cocoanut or palm grove with a ried back to the wharf only to find that fringe of bananas. It was very hot, and our boatmen had taken another party there were long stops at every wayside out to a Mexican vessel then in port. station. The hours dragged slowly by. There was no time to be lost. We ar- But presently we came in sight of the ranged with another set of men and Volcano of Colima, and our first view of started back. When we were midway the great mountain made us forget our between the shore and the steamer, our fatigue and think even the journey from first boatmen, just leaving the other Manzanillo worth while. The two peaks ship, saw us and come toward our tiny stood out sharply against the clear sky. craft, with angry, threatening gestures. The one has long been extinct, but a It was an unpleasant moment, and a big blanket of white ashes was evidence of shark, appearing on the surface nearby, the recent activity of the other peak, did not add to our peace of mind. But and a faint cloud of smoke still hovered our boatmen were equal to the occasion over the crater. Mountains have always and swung past just as the sharp bow had a special fascination for me, and I of the first boat seemed about to cut us have been fortunate enough to see two in two. Then there was a race for the active volcanoes : Vesuvius was in a ship, our men proving the better of the state of eruption the last time I visited two sets. Arrived there, we had a great Naples, and while I was on the Island deal of talking, and finally an amicable of Hawaii, Kilauea afforded a sight settlement of accounts, and the two sets which will not soon be forgotten by of men, who had been ready to draw those of us who spent a night at the edge machetes a moment before, went off to- of the pit, watching the ever-changing. 384 THE MID-PACIFIC.

la. a Chap ke La

On THE MID-PACIFIC. 385 shapes of the lava some 150 feet beneath. potlan, and from there we ran through I was, therefore, especially anxious to arid land, with dust drifting in even see Colima active, and all the time I re- through closed windows, until we reach- mained in the city I watched the volcano ed Guadalajara, pearl of Mexican cities. with interest. The day before I left my During the dry season it is like an oasis patience was rewarded, for suddenly a in the desert, but it only needs irriga- thick, dark column of smoke and ashes tion to make it the garden spot of the curled up, corkscrew fashion, from the world. Climate and altitude, the latter crater, then spread out in a long line 5000 feet, are perfect as it is possible for across the sky. It only lasted a few any place in this world to be, and the minutes, then faded away. When it was city itself is finely built and well cared gone, the mountain looked as though for. It is noted for the hospitality of its there had been a heavy fall of snow, inhabitants and the beauty of its women. covering it far down toward the timber The latter we saw to perfection Sunday line. I secured a picture of the eruption, evening when the band, which is one of taken from the hotel and looking across the best in the Republic, played in the the plaza, and when I showed it to an plaza. They came in carriages and old friend of mine here, he pointed out strolled slowly around the square, while the spot where, some fifty years ago, he in the opposite direction walked the men, was sitting with the Governor of the when unaccompanied by ladies, and State when the latter was shot dead by radiant glances were exchanged as they a man who had some fancied grievance. passed some fair maiden of their choice. Colima is a charming, semi-tropical It was a charming picture : the big square with its border of orange trees, city, with a delightful climate in winter. the glistening leaves of which gleamed No one should pass it by without at least when struck by the electric lights, the a day there, and more time could be well beautiful women with their Paris gowns spent wandering around the city, sitting and glittering jewels and the long line of in its pretty parks or strolling along the well-dressed men, passing and repassing beautiful Colima River, where fine old around the outer edge of the plaza, In- trees give a pleasant shade, while tall dians in poorer but more picturesque cocoanuts and palms rear their tuft of costumes, followed the same line of leaves high above our heads. It is a march. Back of all was the Cathedral, clean city, and though the houses are considered by many to be the finest in not especially prepossessing, through Mexico, though with others that of the open doors one catches glimpses of flower-filled patios that are very attrac- Puebla holds first place. Besides some fine old churches and tive. other points of interest in the city, there The next stopping place of interest is are a number of quaint little Indian Guadalajara. The first part of the jour- towns within easy reach, or one can ney takes us through superb scenery. It make the trip out to the Barranca de is very mountainous, and on all sides are Oblatos, a canyon 2000 feet deep with high peaks with picturesque barrancas. a stream running along the bottom and There are deep cuts where huge rocks patches of cultivated land clinging to stick out of the sides, appearing to be poised there so lightly that the slightest the steep sides. vibration would send them crashing A journey of an hour and a half down upon the track. The train passes brought us to Atequisa, where some of through numerous tunnels and winds our fellow passengers left the train and on amid the mountains and across drove by stage to Chapala on the shores gulches over 300 feet in depth. It rises of the beautiful lake of the same name. higher and higher. crossing the divide We went on to Ocotlan, from which and skirting the shores of a beautiful half an hour's drive took us to the Ri- lake. We stopped for luncheon at Za- bera Hotel, a pleasant place with greed 386 THE MID-PACIFIC.

In the Country. THE MID-PACIFIC. 387

lawns sloping gently down to the edge saving of considerable time over the of the lake. There is a tiny landing mule trains which were forced to take place where a launch can be secured for a roundabout way through the mountain a tour of the lake, or row boats for a passes. And even with the pirates the shorter trip. danger was less by water than by land, Lake Chapala is seventy miles long by for the mountains were infested with twenty wide. High hills rise all around brigands in those good old days. it, and islands dot its surface. It was The air is fresh at this altitude, which very calm when I was there, but the is about 5000 feet, and there are good wind frequently rises and whips the roads with numerous rides to be taken waters with wild fury ; at such times in the surrounding country, as well as it is too rough for small boats to venture boating and bathing. Altogether it is a out and even larger craft are not safe pleasant place for a holiday. on those turbulent waters. By a short detour Guanajuato, with It is a romantic spot, and we could its famous catacombs, and Queretaro, well believe the stories we were told of where Maximilian met his untimely end, pirates who formerly haunted the shores may also be visited on the way to the of the lake, ready to pounce upon the capital city, both places full of interest. boats, laden with rich stuffs for the cap- And then on to the ancient Tenochtitlan ital city, for at that time it was one of of the Aztecs, the beautiful City of the chief trading routes and meant the Mexico. 388 THE MID-PACIFIC.

HON. T. VERRAN Pacific Personalities

SOUTH AUSTRALIA'S PREMIER

"What university were you educated Christian religion with which he earn- in, Mr. Bright?" was the question once estly believes the future of Young Aus- put to the Great Tribune. "Sir, in the tralia is bound. He is deeply interest- University of the World," answered the ed in all social and philanthropic move- man whose marvelous oratory, dazzling ments which are calculated to uplift hu- rhetoric and perfect diction had thrilled manity, and he is a frequent speaker at millions. important gatherings in that connection. The Premier of South Australia Mr. Verran does not mince his words (Hon. J. Verran), like his predecessor when speaking of social cancers which (the late Hon. T. Price), rose from the infest most communities, and he has ex- ranks. Both had meagre education, and erted his influence to bring about refor- at an age all too early were sent into the mation in many ways. world to earn their living. Gifted with Mr. Verran is a delightful traveling natural ability, they made the most of companion. He has a fund of Cornish their opportunities in their leisure hours stories and as a reconteur in the dialect by storing their minds with knowledge of the Duchy he is inimitable. As Oliver of social and political problems which Goldsmith said of David Garrick, "He is were to be turned to such good account the embodiment of all that is pleasant in later on. Mr. Price was a stonemason man." in Wales, and when quite a young man Mr. Verran both as a private member went to South Australia. Mr. Verran and member of Cabinet has been asso- served his apprenticeship underground ciated with the passing of some of the in a Cornish mine, and grasping "the most progressive measures that have happy skirts of chance" left his home for been placed upon the Statute Book of the Antipodes. Humble birth nor want the State—enactments which have ma- of academic training are any bar to a terially helped the workman, the pro- man rising to a pinnacle of fame in po- ducer and the professional man to reap litical South Australia. the highest rewards for their labors. He Often it has happened that latent has been one of the most vigorous fight- statesmanship in a man is developed only ers in the cause of securing an equal by a realization of the responsibilities of franchise for every man and woman office, and that is just where Mr. Price over twenty-one years of age. At pres- proved how eminently fitted he was for ent the voting qualification for the legis- the Premiership. Mr. Verran. one of lative council or upper house is on a re- Mr. Price's closest personal friends, had stricted basis, and Mr. Verran has given such a preliminary training to fit him for his pledge to the electors that he will the position of head of the government. fight to the last ditch to break down a leader of the legislature. Commissioner class privilege. of Public Works and Minister of Mines Just as the President of the United as falls to the lot of few men compara- States can graduate from log cabin to tively. White House by sheer force of energy Essentially a religious man. a deep and ability and social service to his fel- student of Scriptures, and a lay Metho- lows, so has Mr. Verran and Mr. Price dist preacher of considerable power, Mr. before him dissipated the one-time idea Verran's accession to his high office has that birth and station were the stepping not diminished but rather strengthened stones to the fulfillment of the highest his desire to propagate the truths of the positions in the state. 390 THE MID-PACIFIC.

THE MID-PACIFIC. 391

MEXICO'S GREAT MAN

On the twenty-second of May, a year Orleans. In the following year, 1876, his ago, the white-haired old soldier-states- partisans recalled him. man, who, from Mexico City, has ruled On the voyage to Vera Cruz, while the the destinies of his country for a genera- steamer was at anchor off one of the tion, agreed to give up his office be- - towns of the coast, thinking his presence cause a successful revolution had con- had been discovered, and that he would vinced him that his resignation of the be arrested by government officers, which presidential office was his duty. would mean summary death by shooting, In September, Porfirio Diaz celebrated he threw himself into the sea, intending, his eightieth birthday while Mexico was as he afterward said, to swim ashore, celebrating her one hundredth. but, as his enemies always contended, to Diaz has Indian blood in his veins. He commit suicide by drowning. He was is mostly Spanish. He started in life as picked up and taken back on the steamer. a lawyer, but during his stormy career When Vera Cruz was reached he dis- has found little time in which to prac- guised himself as a coal heaver and was tice that profession. He helped drive smuggled ashore by the purser. His time Santa Anna from the country in 1854. had come. That was the beginning of his public career. He aided in making Benito He routed Lerdo's forces and occu- Juarez the leader of the Liberal party, pied the capital five days after Lerdo had and the only fullblooded Indian who was fled the country, going by the west coast ever president of Mexico, president. to San Francisco. When France intervened in 1862 Diaz An election followed the revolution. took the field and kept it till after Maxi- Diaz was duly elected, and on May 5, milian, deserted by his French allies, was 1877, took the oath of office and was twice defeated, captured and shot. He regularly inaugurated to serve till No was twice captured by the enemy during vember 30, 1880. The Diaz government this war, but made his escape both times. was not recognized by the United States His chief exploits were the recapture for nearly a year afterward, March, 1878. of Puebla and the City of Mexico in In 1880 Diaz retired under the provi- 1867. sion of the constitution, which then for- The presidential election came off in bade a president to be his own successor, October, 1867. and General Gonzalez, who had been Diaz was a candidate against Juarez, minister of war, was elected. but he only received seventy-three elec- Diaz became minister of public works, toral votes against 245 for Juarez. later chief justice, and finally governor of From that day until he finally succeeded, Oaxaca, his native state. nine years afterward, Diaz was a con- Gonzalez made a mess of it as presi- stant conspirator against the government. dent, undoing much that Diaz had ac- He pronounced against Juarez, but complished in the way of modernizing after several engagements in the field was and civilizing his country. So Diaz was so badly beaten that he was compelled to re-elected in 1884. In 1887 the constitu- take refuge in New Orleans. tion was amended so as to allow him to Juarez died in 1872 and was succeeded succeed himself for one term. He was by Lerdo de Tefada, president of the re-elected in 1888, and during that time federal supreme court of justice (a posi- the "bridle was taken off" so that no re- tion corresponding to our chief justice), strictions remained as to the number of there being no vice-president in Mexico. times a president could serve, and he con- Lerdo issued an amnesty proclamation tinued as president up to May, 1911, and Diaz returned to Mexico. In 1875 when he resigned and departed from he pronounced against Lerdo, but, being Mexico to pass his declining years in the defeated again, he fled once more to New City of Paris. 392 THE MID-PACIFIC.

MADAME MELBA. THE MID-PACIFIC. 393

AUSTRALIA'S SONG BIRD

Madam Melba, or to give her correct She proceeded to England and appeared name, Helen Porter Armstrong, is the at Covent Garden, but was not a suc- greatest operatic artist of modern times, cess, the critics going so far as to say and it is probable that she will hold that that her voice was too wooden. Not be- title long after she has retired, for it is ing easily discouraged, she returned to hardly likely that so golden a voice will Europe, and two years afterwards again ever be found again. appeared at Covent Garden where she re- She was born in Melbourne, Victoria, ceived a welcome that has never been Australia, in 1866, and is therefore in accorded to any other artist. From that her forty-sixth year. Her father was J. time on she has met with uninterrupted Fitchell, a prominent builder and con- success. tractor of Melbourne. He is a Scotsman, Madam Melba is very charitable and and went to Australia at an early age. not only gives freely to different hospi- Her mother is of Spanish descent. tals and charities, but never refuses a At the age of seventeen she married helping hand to any other singer who is W. Armstrong, the son of a well known trying to climb the ladder of success. On Melbourne physician. The beauty of her her last visit to Australia she persevered voice when she was but fourteen had until she found what she thought was a won great admiration and this prompted promising soprano and now she is having her to give a concert in order to allow the lucky lady's voice trained at her own her friends to hear her to the best advan- expense and has promised to assist her tage. Her father was bitterly opposed to in her profession. her appearing in public in any way what- She is at present in Australia, where ever so he quietly set about telling her she has been appearing in opera with her friends not to attend, as he wanted to own company. Her every appearance discourage his daughter in every way has been an added triumph. People be- possible. The result was that no one gin to collect at the various theatre en- went to hear the future star, much to her trances at six o'clock in the morning and dismay. bringing little stools with them, patiently Among the people who recognized the wait all day for the doors to open. This wonderful timbre of her voice was a has enabled her to show some more of famous teacher of singing in Melbourne. her thoughtfulness for her audiences for He immediately arranged for lessons and she has the doors opened early in the she remained with him for ten years. She afternoon, and when the theatre is filled made many appearances in Australia be- has afternoon tea served out. This has fore she went to Europe to continue her occurred on every occasion. On the first studies but as is usual, the country of her night she appeared, the patient people birth did not appreciate that Australia waiting to hear her, amused themselves had produced the world's greatest singer ; by having a piano brought up to the gal- it rested with Europe to recognize it. lery. Some one played accompaniments After leaving Australia she proceeded to of popular songs which the audience Paris where she studied under the sang. In this way the time was whiled famous Madam Marchesi for some time away until the curtain was raised. and ultimately emerged the finished singer that this teacher never fails to Madam Melba has bought another home in Australia and intends now to produce. Melba made her debut at Brussels on pass part of each year in her native October 15th, 1887, as Gilda in Rigolieto. country. 394 THE MID-PACIFIC.

DR. JOH.N STRAYER McGREW. THE MID-PACIFIC. 395

THE FATHER OF ANNEXATION

Dr. John S. McGrew, whose death it was not until 1876 that he revisited occurred on November 18, 1911, follow- his native State. He went again twenty- ing a fall which he had suffered some seven years later. weeks before, was a type of Hawaii's most rugged and sincere Americanism. Three things were embodied in Dr. He was born in Lancaster, Ohio, De- McGrew's life here, which, apart from cember 23, 1825, his father being a his strong personality, or perhaps be- leading Democrat of his State and the cause of it, made him a man of mark. founder of the Cincinnati Enquirer. At He was the most vigilant and hospitable the age of fifteen young McGrew enter- American in Honolulu, especially toward ed Oxford College, where he graduat- his countrymen. Americans who came ed to enter the Ohio Medical College, in here with a claim to consideration found which he qualified as a physician and it at his hands ; and he was the per- surgeon. sonal host of visiting admirals and gen- erals. He also kept the medical profes- The outbreak of the Civil War brought sion at a high standard ; he may be said him to the front as surgeon of the to have sustained its honorable ethics Eighty-third Ohio Regiment. In the with as firm as hand as he did the pa- Red River expedition he served by de- triotism of the little American commun- tail as a surgeon of division and later, ity of which he was the inspiring cen- under McClellan and Sherman, when he ter. Then Dr. McGrew was first, last went through notable campaigns, he and all the time an advocate of the reached the rank of lieutenant-colonel. annexation of Hawaii to the United Once, while in charge of an ambulance, States, and from this object neither which the enemy intercepted, he saved royal blandishments nor social or polit- by a quick ruse, the wounded Major- ical opposition could swerve him. After General Franklin from capture. the revolution of '93 he became editor- Dr. McGrew came to Hawaii in 1866 in-chief of the new annexation papery to settle unfinished business with a man the Star. who had lately moved here. He liked Honolulu and determined to stay, send- John S. McGrew amassed a comfort- ing for his wife and buying property. able fortune, and left a family consisting This city had few doctors then, and Dr. of a widow, a son and a daughter. He McGrew became the leading practitioner had been twice married, and a son by and was for years in charge of the Ma- his first wife, from whom nothing was rine Hospital. He kept very busy, and heard for years, is believed to be dead.. EDITORIAL COMMENT

THE PUBLIC SERVICE. THE NEW REPUBLIC.

The Public Service Association of It seems as though Hawaii and the Honolulu has established a tourist de- Hands-Around-the-Pacific Club are to partment in connection with its work. give a president to the new Republic of Hereafter the visitor to Hawaii is to be China. Dr. Sun Yat Sen sat beside the taken care of. The tourist department white and brown boys of Honolulu to is patterned after that of Sydney, Aus- receive his education. His wife was a tralia, and organizes all kinds of excur- Chinese girl from the Island of Kauai, sions about Honolulu, around the Island the Garden Island of the Hawaiian Ter- of Oahu, and among the islands of the ritory, and his only son was born in th. group. Islands. The men of the family are From the very start this department members of the Hands-Around-the-Pa- paid its own way, and even indicated a cific Club in Honolulu, and Dr. Sun and profit that may well be spent cutting his son, who at this writing is leaving trails in the mountains and building Honolulu for China, will organize a resthouses on the mountain peaks. branch of the Hands-Around Club in the new Republic. Two enthusiastic sup- The Trail and Mountain Club, which porters of the Hands-Around-the-Pacific is an integral part of the Public Service movement, Wm. S. Bowen and Frank Association, is preparing the first of its Damon, are largely responsible for the resthouses for occupancy, and hopes to education, encouragement and financing have one of these every ten miles along of Dr. Sun, and he alludes to them as the trails. The services have been se- the Lafayettes of the Chinese Republic. cured of a New Zealand official who has In Hawaii the Chinese have been treat- built for his own country many rest- ed as men and brothers, and as such they houses with the assistance of Maori act toward the people of Hawaii. Owing workmen, and his familiarity with the to the fact that the Chinese coolies will Maori language enables him to converse work for a very small wage, they are with the Hawaiians. not desired by the white man as a com- Strong native grass houses will 13,- petitor; but perhaps the Republic of erected at the cost of cutting trees and China will follow the lead of New Zea- drying grass, and the keys to these ser- land and establish a minimum wage law, viceable camping abodes will be kept at and America may in time do the same, the rooms of the Public Service Asso- when much of the feeling against the ciation. Chinaman will be removed. The Public Service Association has China may not wish the Anglo-Saxon secured with the beginning of the year to force his way into Eastern Asia to the placing on sale by the local steam- exploit that part of the world, while boat company cruising tickets that en- America and Australia may never invite able the tourist to visit, at a cost of $25, the Chinese to enter and develop their all of the Hawaiian Islands. domains ; but Hawaii is proud of the Australia and New Zealand have set part her son has taken in the redemp- the world a pace in taking care of the tion of China, for it brings the real tourist ; Hawaii is now preparing to fol- hands-around movement nearer than low their lead. ever. To the Governments of the Pacific.

RESOLUTIONS UNANIMOUSLY ADOPTL D AT THE PACIFIC DAY BANQUET IN HONOLULU BY 350 MEMBERS OF THE HANDS-AROUND-THE-PACIFIC CLUB GATHERED TOGETHER FROM EVERY PEOPLE AND PART OF THE GREAT OCEAN.

WHEREAS) The Pan-Pacific Union, an international organiza- tion maintained by twenty-one American republics administered by governmental appointees from each republic, successfully maintains in the political capital of the United. States a building and staff of workers devoted to the development of commercial friendly intercourse and better acquaintance, among the Ameri- can republics, and this having proved a success, be it

RESOLVED, That the Hands-Around-the-Pacific Club, organ- ized for a somewhat similar association of the nations of the Pacific, hereby calls upon the governments about the Great Ocean and requests the Governor of Hawaii to officially request them to appoint delegates, backed by proper pro rata appropriations, to' organize a permanent body to take up and carry to success the matter of establishing in the metropolis of America a Pan Pacific building to house a permanent Pacific commercial exhibit and government tourist bureau, and to maintain there a force of workers with sufficient funds to advertise throughout America the advantages of the Pacific lands to the investor, emigrant or tourist ; and be it further RESOLVED, That the commercial bodies of all of the countries bordering on the Pacific and interested in the development of trade on the Great Ocean be invited to co-operate in this plan. Proposed Appropriation from Each Pacific State or Country.

Some three hundred and fifty members of the Hands-Around-the-Pacific Club sat down at the Pacific Day banquet, February 23. Every state and country bordering on the Great Ocean was represented. Governor Frear of Hawaii presided, and with him on the platform were General M. M. Macomb, Admiral W. C. Cowles, and E. I. Spalding, president of the Honolulu Chamber of Com- merce, representing the civil, military, naval and business interests of the Mid- Pacific. Copies of this issue of the Mid-Pacific Magazine, minus the single insert sheet, were placed at each guest's plate. The press of the following day reported the affair and the speeches from each table. Copies of the Hands-Around-the- Pacific number of the Mid-Pacific Magazine will be sent to each of the heads of Pacific governments, with official letters from Governor Frear, calling attention to the matters pertaining to the creation of the organization to carry on the joint Pacific promotion campaign in America. Several of the Pacific govern- ments have already, in a semi-official way, given assurances of cooperation and financial support. Merely as a guide the following table of proposed pro rata appropriations to the general fund was suggested, based largely on the proportion of white or civilized population in each Pacific country or state mentioned :

ANNUAL STATE. POPULATION. AMOUNT. Alaska 65,000 $ 1,000 British Columbia 300,000 3,000 Washington 1,441,000 5,000 Oregon 672,000 4,000 California 2, 377, 000 10,000 Mexico 15,000,000 25,000 China 400,000,000 25,000 Japan 40,000,000 50,000 New South Wales 1,400,000 25,000 Victoria 1,200,000 22,000 New Zealand 1,000,000 20,000 Queensland 500,000 10,000 South Australia 400,000 8,000 Tasmania 175,000 5,000 Western Australia 200,000 5,000 Hawaii 150,000 5,000 Fiji native 1,000 Samoa native 1,000

$225,000 THE SECOND ANNUAL BANQUET OF THE Hands Around the Pacific Club IN HONOLULU

JAPANESE PRIMARY SCHOOLHOUSE PACIFIC DAY, FEB'Y 23, 1912

PURPOSE OF THE GATHERING: To bring all races of the Pacific together in a friendly commercial movement to extend the trade of the Great Ocean, and to request the governments bordering on the Pacific to definitely appropriate their pro rata proportion toward the cost of maintain- ing in New York City a permanent exhibition bureau and official tourist bureau that will advertise throughout the American continent the advan- tages of Pacific lands to the investor, tha immigrant and the tourist.

MU S I C Royal Hawaiian Band Filipino Quartette -.. Russian Trio Spanish Solo

THE MENU

LOBSTER AND EGG CHOP SU1 CHINESE DUCK FISH RICE ALMOND SOUP CHINESE CANDY CHINESE NUTS HAWAIIAN FRUITS SANDWICHES TEA PINECTAR POI

NOTE.—The First Annual Banquet was held at the University Club, an Australian program. The next Banquet will be Hawaiian. /- – '• AT THE TABLES REPRESENTING THE PEOPLE OF THE PACIFIC

Honorary President, Governor Walter F. Frear of Hawaii, Presiding.

AT THE OFFICIAL TABLE. Governor 'Walter F. Frear Chas. A. Cottrill, Collector Internal General M. M. Macomb Revenue Admiral Walter C. Cowles E. A. Mott-Smith, Secretary of the Mayor J. J. Fern Territory Marston Campbell, Supt. of Public Arthur G. Smith, Assistant Attor- Works ney-General E. I. Spalding, President Chamber E. R. Hendry, U. S, Marshal of Commerce W. F. Crockett Willis T. Pope, Supt. of Schools AT THE AUSTRALIA TABLE. J. E. Stokes John M. Gile3 Sydney Nicholson Chas. B. Estep Thomas Smith T. Harrington R. A. Jordan T. D. Collins J. C. Penny W. Lishman G. B. Curtis A. P. Gibson V. L. Stevenson Fred Harrison W. J. L. Fitzmaurice C. C. Coonley AT THE NEW ZEALAND TABLE. J. N. Phillips Harry Armitage J. P. Cooke Percy Cleghorn G. vos Jakins F. J. Green J. T. Armitage C. F. Maxwell A. F. Cooke A. C. 0. Linnemann C. H. Hitchcock A. F. Lewis AT THE LATIN-AMERICA TABLE. T. H. Gibson G. H. Buttolph Ignacio de Arano T. F. Sedgwick W. E. Shaw A. Dondero W. D. Westervelt G. R. Ewart R. Y. Gilbert A. Gartley A. Canavarro J. E. Rocha G. R. Marsilly AT THE SOUTH SEAS TA BLE. Ed Duisenberg W. A. Bryan B. G. Rivenburg J. Hills Dr. F. Muir A. Falke C. W. Renear Jas. Bicknell C. A. Bostrom J. H. Townsend AT THE PHILIPPINES TABLE. Geo. R. Carter General M. M. Macomb P. B. Danky J. W. Gilmore H. E. Walker C. Hedemann Gerrit P. Wilder E. P. W. St. George AT THE CANADA TABLE. Edgar Wood J. A. Lyle A. Loftus E. F. Moseley R. A. Robbins C. G. Ballentyne R. 0. Matheson H. S. Hayward F. I. Bradley Daniel Logan W. G. Hall A. Allan Dr. N. B. Emerson W. B. Colley W. R. Hull J. Higgins R. R. Nelson AT THE POLYGLOT TABLE. F. M. Bechtel, Siberia H. L. Strange, Russia M. L. Hudson, Alaska Jas. Rath, India J. W. Wadman,Korea E. H. Thiel, Arctic Circle Martin Grune, Manchuria B. Rabeler, South Africa AT THE WASHINGTON S TATE TABLE. F. J. Lowrey H. E. Hendrick St. C. Sayers H. L. Kerr H. Gooding-Field George Donald Fred W. Carter E. E. Kennedy J. R. Galt Alfred Basch R. H. Allan AT THE OREGON TABLE. N. B. Courtnay Benton Bowers L. M. Rader Ed Dekum Captain A. B. Graham J. A. Maddox E. V. Carter Leslie Butler E. R. Realises Dr. Mills J. W. Cruthers H. J. Biddle G. S. Butler George F. Wilkinson AT THE CALIFORNIA TABLE. P. L. Home S. S. Tabor Walter A. Wall Dr. D. Maclennan Geo. Bustard 0. E. Selzer G. H. Tuttle Geo. McEldowney Will P. Thomas L. A. Mackaye J. Fitzpatrick L. Charles Green R. R. McEldowney Chas. R. Frazier Alex. G. Horn

AT THE SOUTHERN STATES TABLE. John M. Young H. G. Smart W. H. Duval J. A. Adams Wm. Gaynor Fenner B. Stickney A. H. Ford W. Ramsey Smith Maj. Jas. M. Kennedy Geo. T. Brite Richard Quinn Capt. John M. Jenkins J. B. Blackshear S. F. Burbank W. D. Edings Roy C. Blackshear C. F. Loomis J. W. Caldwell Jas. A. Barton Dr. E. R. Marshall A. S. Humphreys J. R. Barton J. C. Evans C. C. Bitting C. E. King L. H. Camp J. S. Donaghho R. H. Trent A. K. Shepard J. McQuaid AT THE WESTERN STATES TABLE. C. A. Stanton M. H. Norwood T. Kinney W. Randall J. S. F. Rothchild M. L. HolbrOok David C. Bell W. D. Tigler W. B. Helmhity Patrick Cudahy C. A. Day AT THE MALIHINI TABLE. I. D. Canfield J. A. Botelho H. N. Hertz S. T. Hoyt Paul Super A. E. Lorimer Rev. R. E. Smith G. Banta . A. A. Ebersole C. H. Meyer F. A. Edgcomb H. M. Hepburn AT THE KAMAAINA TABLE. W. R. Farrington Howard Hitchcock H. Myhre Richard Weeden W. E. Rowell G. W. Paty John Walker John Guild A. F. Wall J. McChesney' Irwin Spalding F. C. Atherton P. M. Pond George Osborne AT THE BUSINESS MEN'S TABLE. W. C. Park E. A. Berndt Walter Dillingham L. A. Thurston C. B. Castle W. R. Castle L. Tenney Peck R. W. Shingle F. B. McStocker Harold Dillingham H. M. von Holt Ralph Johnstone AT THE AROUND-THE-WORLD TABLE. E. A. Mclnerny C. H. Dickey Lyle Dickey W. L. Howard John T. Gulick George J. Brown J. S. Emerson Henri Jules Pinchon Allan Herbert Max Greenbaugh AT THE JAPAN TABLE. Theo. Richards T. Kagiro Gerald G. Irvine Dr. Szudder R. L. Halsey Dr. Mori Frank Scudder A. F. Griffths Dr. Machida T. Okumura W. P. Adams Clifford Spitzer T. Hori AT THE JAPANESE TABLE. S. Uyeno T. Katsunuma T. Uyemura Y. Akai W. Motoshige J. Uvhida K. Haida C: Motokawa S. Sheba K. Kono C. Nakamura T. Mitamura Y. Kimura A. K. Ozawa Y. Mikami E. Katsumata Y. Soga T. Masuhara M. Kawahara T. Sumida K. Isoshima I. Arai AT THE HAWAII TABLE. L. L. McCandless E. L. Like W. P. Jarrett J. J. Fern Jack Kalakiela Charles Rose G. K. Keawehaku David Kalawaia John Wilson George Kane AT THE CHINA TABLE. Lorrin Andrews S. M. Damon H. F. Wichman W. C. Weedon F. Damon H. M. von Holt J. A. Beaven E. A. Douthitt G. F. Krauss AT THE CHINESE TABLE. Chan Ming E. Ho Fon Wong Leong Chu Gem Tse Wah Kwock Wong Leong Yong Kwong Tat Goo Kim Fook Chuck Hoy C. K. Ai Goo Wan Hoy Tong Kau C. Q. Yee Hop Lee Toma Tao Joe AT THE HAWAIIAN CHINESE TABLE, Sam L. Alina Tsok Kai Tse A. K. F. Yap Farm Cornn Tom Ayoy Dr. Chang Dai Yen E. 0. Farm Philip Wong E. K. C. Yap A. K. Ting L. L. Wong Yap Kwai Fong Ching Chau AT THE KOREAN TABLE. Rev. J. W. Wadman K. M. Lee W. K. Park Rev. C. P. Hong H. C. Choi I. P. Hong W. K. Ahn C. N. Chung C. S. Lim C. M. Han S. H. Park