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The East Bank of the Euphrates from Tel Ahmar to Hit Author(S): Gertrude Lowthian Bell Source: the Geographical Journal, Vol

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The East Bank of the Euphrates from Tel Ahmar to Hit Author(S): Gertrude Lowthian Bell Source: the Geographical Journal, Vol The East Bank of the Euphrates from Tel Ahmar to Hit Author(s): Gertrude Lowthian Bell Source: The Geographical Journal, Vol. 36, No. 5 (Nov., 1910), pp. 513-537 Published by: geographicalj Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1777340 Accessed: 30-05-2016 01:59 UTC Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at http://about.jstor.org/terms JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. Wiley, The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers) are collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to The Geographical Journal This content downloaded from 155.69.24.171 on Mon, 30 May 2016 01:59:14 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms The Geographical Journal. No. 5. NOVEMBER, 1910. VOL. XXXVI. THE EAST BANK OF THE EUPHRATES FROM TEL AHMAR TO HIT.* By GERTRUDE LOWTBITAN BELL. THE modern high-road friom Aleppo to Baghdad follows more or less closely the west bank of the Euphrates from the point, just above Meskene, where it first touches the river, down to Feluja, where it crosses over into Mesopotamia and takes a line almost due east to Baghdad. The number of travellers who have passed along the east bank is comparatively small, and the information which we possess is not infrequently confined to the observations made by members of the survey expedition conducted by Chesney; I propose, therefore, to give a brief account of a journey which I made down the east bank in February and March, 1909. Coming 'from Aleppo rid Bab and Membij, I crossed the river. at a point opposite Tel Ahmar. This is the road which is now invariably followed by caravans from Aleppo to UJrfa, though but a few years ago, when the Mesopotamian desert was still more unsettled than it is at present, caravans were obliged to go up to Birijik and skirt the northern limits of the desert to Urfa. Mr. Hogarth had followed the road from Aleppo to Tel Ahmar in the previous year,t and it was at his suggestion that I went to Tel Ahmar. He had asked me to take squeezes of some stones of an important Hittite inscription which he had discovered at Tel Ahmar, some of the stones having been, at the time of his visit, partly under water and therefore difficult to * Map, p. 636. In translating Arabic names I have conformed in this paper to the system adopted by the Royal Geographical Society.-Gt. L. B. t ' Annals of Archaeology and Anthropology: Carchemish and its Neighbourhood,' vol. 2, No. 4. NO. V.-NOVEMBER, 1910.] 2 N This content downloaded from 155.69.24.171 on Mon, 30 May 2016 01:59:14 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms 514 THE EAST BANK OF THE EUPHRATES FROM TEL AHMAR TO HIT. work upon. The river had not yet risen when I was there in February; the stones were dry, and I succeeded in getting the squeezes which he desired. I suspect that this most modern caravan road from Aleppo to Urfa has reverted to a line which it had already followed during an earlier age, for during the numerous Roman expeditions against the Sassanians the passage seems usually to have been made lower down than Birijik, more nearly opposite Hierapolis (Membij), and the MIesopotamian road ran thence by Thilaticomum and through the desert to Batnse in Osrhcene.* The two most famous passages of the middle Euphrates were undoubtedly at Birijik and at Thapsacus: at the former Seleucus Nicator built a bridge, and Crassus, in the first century before Christ, found a bridge there, and crossed, with all the omens against him. But Julian, in the year 363 A.D., marching from Hierapolis, probably took a shorter road, for he was anxious to reach Mesopotamia before intelligence of his movements should have come to the enemy,t and it has been conjectured that he threw his bridge of boats across the river at Csciliana, a place mentioned in the Peutinger Tables, and identified tentatively with Kalaat en Nejm.$ I suggest that Julian's point of passage was possibly no other than the modern Tel Ahmar, and I think it not improbable that Strabo's road from Syria to Seleucia and Babylon crossed the river at the same place. He states ? th*at "; the Euphrates is crossed in the latitude of Anthemusia, a place in Mesopo- tamia. [I Above the river, at a distance of 4 schceni, is Bambyce") (Hierapolis-Manbij), " where the Syrian goddess is worshipped." Thapsacus, which lies lower down than Ceeciliana, was of earlier importance. Xenophon crossed there, and nearly a hundred years later Darius, fleeing headlong eastwards with his broken army after the battle of Issus, with Alexander headlong at his heels. The site has never been satisfactorily identified. Chesney placed it at a point just above Haragla, Moritz ? at Dibse. This does not, however, exhaust the number of recorded roads across the Euphrates, for Chosroes, in his first expedition against Justinian, crossed at Obbanes, somewhere near the modern Meskene, and on his third expedition he built a bridge of boats near Europus, which is Carchemish, the modern * It is so given in the Antonine Itinerary, '"EHierapoli-Thilaticomum-Bathnas~ Edissa." Mr. Hogarth (Annual of the British School at Athens, No. XIV., p. 183) suggests that the Abbess 2Etheria crossed at Tell Ahmar on her way to Edessa. t Ammianus Marcellinus, bk. 23, ch. ii. t Chapot,' Les Frontieres de l'Euphrate,' p. 281. Chapot believes that Strabo's road crossed at a point north of Cxeciliana, which would fit in well with Tell Ahmar (op. cit., p. 254). ? Bk. 16, ch. i. par. 27. || Eski Seruj, according to Chapot, op. ctit., p. 306. ' ' Zur antiken Topographie der Palmyrene,' p. 31. This content downloaded from 155.69.24.171 on Mon, 30 May 2016 01:59:14 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms THE EAST BANK OF THE EUPHRATES FROM TEL AHMAR TO HIT. 515 Jerablus." During the Mohammedan period other points are mentioned. Ibn Khordadhbeh, writing in the ninth century, makes the road from Aleppo to Babylon cross at Balls (Barbalissos)t; but Istakhri, a hundred years later, says that Balls, though it was once the Syrian port on the Euphrates, had fallen into decay since the time of Seif ed Dauleh (944 A.D.), and was little used by merchants.$ In the twelfth century, and perhaps earlier, its place had been taken by KIalaat en Nejm, where Nur ed Din, who died in 1145, built a great fortress, famous during the wars against the Crusaders. The bridge there was called Jisr Membij, the bridge of Membij, but it cannot have been con- structed by Nur ed Din, for Ibn Jubeir, writing, about the year 1185, a description of his journey from Harran and Seruj to Membij, says that he " crossed the river in small boats, lying ready, to a new castle called Kalaat en Nejm." ? In Yakut's day (circ. 1225) the caravans from Hlarran (Carrh~) to Syria always crossed here. For the first four hours southwards from Tel Ahmar, there is no recorded journey along the east bank, and indeed the whole stretch from Tel Ahmar to Rakka has been little travelled. l Half an hour below Tel Ahmar, among some insignificant ruins, I found a small Hittite inscription cut on a bit of basalt, and close to it a block of limestone carved with a much-effaced Hittfte relief. A few minutes further to the east a lion's head, roughly worked in basalt, lay upon a mound. The head is carved in the round; we dug into the mound and uncovered a large block on which the legs were represented in relief. We rode on a few minutes further to Kubbeh, a village where the inhabitants are Arabic-speaking Kurds, and found in the graveyard the fragment of a Latin inscription in well-cut letters- COMF LONG HFR VIAS We left the hamlet of Ja'deh a little to the right, and reached the village of Mughara in three hours from Tel Ahmar. Beyond it the eastern ridge of high ground draws in towards the river. I turned off from the direct path, and in a small valley, just before we reached the * Mr. Hogarth doubts the accepted identification of Jerablus with Europus (Annals of Arch. and Anthrop., vol. 2, p. 169). t ' Ed. de Goeje,' p. 74. t lbid., p. 62. ? Gibb Memorial edition, p. 248. il Pognon was at Serrin, but l.e does not say how he got there (' Inscriptions de la M6sopotamie,' p. 15). Oppenheim crossed the river at Kalaat en Nejm, and travelled northwards along the bank as far as Serrin; see his Tell Halaf, No. 1, tenth year of the Alte Orient, and his " Griechische und lateinis?he Inschriften " in the Byzantinische Zeitschrift for 1905. Sachau crossed to Rakka and went up to Haragla (' Reise in Syrien und Mesopotamien,' p. 245; Sarre and Herzfeld passed over the same track the year before I was there (Zeitsehrift der Gesell. fi4r Erdkunde zu Berlin, 1909, No. 7). 21N2 This content downloaded from 155.69.24.171 on Mon, 30 May 2016 01:59:14 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms 516 THE EAST BANK OF THE EUPHRATES FROM TEL AHMAR TO HIT.
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