Lisbonthrough Four Seasons eyes the insightful guide for enlightened travel There’s no doubt about it: Lisbon gets under your skin. I moved here over a decade ago with my wife, with a view to staying for two years; now I don’t think we’ll ever leave. I love the way the city’s multiple identities beat with the same equable heart; how it’s both seductively stylish and sublimely serene. I love the cramped little houses of Alfama and the sprawling expanse of Belém; the forests and beaches, the surfing and wineries. I love the trams and the way the evening light shrouds the buildings in a warm glow; and how everything in and around the city somehow seems more vibrant, more alive… This guidebook was itself inspired by the ever-changing faces of Lisbon. Tired of guides that were only updated annually at best, we set about creating an insightful, up-to-the-minute log of the very best of Lisbon’s hotspots and hideaways, food and wine, history and culture to help our guests make the most of every moment of their stay, whether they’re with us for two days or two weeks. My thanks go to Mariana Rebelo de Sousa and Mario de Castro for their unwavering input, as well as to our guests, staff and friends for their many contributions. We’re constantly updating the information you’re about to read so please don’t hesitate to contact us with your top tips for future inclusion, or news on ‘no-longer-so-hot’-spots contained within. Finally, don’t miss our Unique Experiences: a special collection of tours and trips compiled for the exclusive pleasure of guests of Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon. So put on your walking shoes and join us on this most intriguing of journeys down Alfama’s cobbled streets, along Cascais’s elegant Atlantic Coast, through the rolling plains of Alentejo – the Portuguese Tuscany – and deep into the magical Sintra mountains… Happy exploring!

Henri Poudensan CONTRIBUTORS

Henri Diana Mario A former resident of Paris, London Cascais-born Diana is a real foodie. Editor-at-Large, worldwide travel- and Barcelona, French-born Henri ex- When she’s not busy being Four Sea- ler and reporter Mario lives in Paris, tols the virtues of the Lisbon lifestyle. sons Hotel Ritz Lisbon’s Public Rela- though his roots are embedded in Happiest taking photos or relaxing by tions Director she’s her friends’ 911 North Portugal. He spent 10 years the sea with his wife and two children, call for the city’s top dining tips, from writing for the Louis Vuitton City the Director of Sales & Marketing at the snazziest hotspots to hidden local Guides and regularly contributes to Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon loves gems. At the weekend she loves enjoy- magazines across Europe, Russia and the city for its unapologetic enjoyment ing the good weather whilst playing South America. Four Seasons Hotel of life. golf with her husband, all the while Ritz Lisbon has been his Portuguese planning her next big adventure … home-away-from-home for over 12 “People here take the time to do things years. that residents of other cities overlook. “Lisbon has the perfect balance of the From watching the boats sail by to traditional, the historical and the con- “You never tire of rediscovering Lisbon’s driving to a deserted beach for a dip at temporary. From Eléctrico 28 and Mo- simple pleasures. It’s pure enjoyment.” lunchtime, it’s a beautiful place steiro dos Jerónimos to pop-ups, concept to savor life’s finer details.” stores and exhibitions, it is buzzing with energy – and endless Instagram pho- tosharing opportunities!”

6 Contents

49 9 Unique 97 Lisbon: TREATS 153 Experiences ‘What & When’ by Moto-sidecar Tour of Lisbon and ON THE GO Moto-sidecar Photo Workshop Events neighbourhood Sailing Chiado & Bairro Alto Private Bullfight Calendar Príncipe Real Wine Harvest 99 Alfama & Castle Personal Shoppers Belém Private Viewings The Best LX Factory Gastro-nostalgia Tour Golf Days of Lisbon Surfing Experiences Fashion: Portuguese Designers 27 Fashion: International Brands Fashion: Multi-brands/Concept Stores Day Trips Fashion: Accessories Sintra & Cascais 84 Fashion: Jewelry Mafra, Ericeira & Obidos Homeware & Interior Design Alentejo Fit for a Kid Antiques Palmela, Arrabida & Azeitão Surfing for kids Music & Books Comporta & Tróia Safari in Badoca Art Galleries Backstage at the Zoo Food & Wine Museums Bars & Cafes Restaurants: Traditional Restaurants: Gourmet Restaurants: Fish/Seafood Restaurants: Contemporary Restaurants: International Restaurants: Quick Bites Restaurants: Fado Houses Nightlife Monuments Entertainment

8 Lisbon

by NeighbourhoodColorful and charming, undulating and eclectic, Lisbon is a collection of bairros (districts) spread across seven hills

10 Chiado & Bairro Alto WHERE lisbon’s past embraces its present Two niche neighborhoods for lively living

The Portuguese have anything but a strict S. Pedro de Alcântara. As you walk back dotted around intriguing squares. sense of time; you’ll understand why as down the hill, turn left into Largo do Car- Lisbon’s trendiest district, Bairro Alto the minutes roll into hours during your mo, a leafy and picturesque little square (the ‘high district), is home to artists, exploration of Chiado and Bairro Alto— that houses the ruins of a fourteenth cen- designers, antique shops, chic bars, espla- two energetic districts where shops new tury convent. From here, a walkway links nades and a harmonious coexistence of and old, al fresco cafés, bookstores and to the top of the Elevador de Santa Justa, picturesque curiosity shops and designer nightspots expose Lisbon at its quintes- the eccentric 45-meter lift (complete with boutiques. The 245-meter Ascensor da sential, fashionable best. Forget time and wood-paneled cabins and brass fittings) Bica (Bica Funicular), built in 1892, is embrace the adventure: discover ancient that links Chiado with Baixa below. the most spectacular way to ascend to the shops, seemingly unknown monuments In Chiado you’ll find traditional shops bohemian bairro. And it’s well worth the and the secrets of Lisbon past and present. such as Pereira (freshly ground coffee and trip…. Peaceful by day, the 16th century The stylish district of Chiado—Lisbon’s butter cookies), Vista Alegre (Portuguese alleyways transform by night into the epi- commercial and cultural heart— is the porcelain) and the historic Luvaria Ulisses center of Lisbon’s nightlife—an al fresco place to go for both contemporary and (exquisite leather gloves) alongside top frenzy of buzzing bars and traditional old-style shopping, casual sightseeing or international brands such as Hermès and fado houses spilling onto narrow cobbled to rub shoulders with elegant locals. Begin Hugo Boss. For vintage lovers, A Vida streets. with an aromatic bica at A Brasileira, Portuguesa boasts nostalgic gems from Bairro Alto epitomizes the city’s colorful preferred haunt of intellectuals and artists the 1930s, 40s and 50s: essential view- vibe: terracotta rooftops against an azure (including Fernando Pessoa and Almada ing! Chiado is also home to the Teatro sky; flower-filled balconies and brightly Negreiros) since the early nineteenth Nacional de São Carlos (Opera House of painted walls; endless white and blue century. Then take a detour via the hidden Lisbon), Teatro São Luís and Museu do azulejos that turn ordinary streets into treasures of São Roques church (including Chiado (National Museum of Contem- works of art. Overhead, the crisscrossing a thorn from the crown of thorns), stop- porary Art). Keep exploring to discover shadows of tram lines dance with lines of ping to marvel at the view of the Castle a wealth of book and jewelry shops, cafés laundry that blush pink in the early eve- from the beautiful viewpoint, Miradouro and old Portuguese tile manufacturers ning light. CHIADO & BAIRRO ALTO

We- A Brasileira recommend as the perfect coffee stop - A Vida Portuguesa for traditional gifts - Luvaria Ulisses for handmade gloves - Elevador de Santa Justa for the experience! - Casa Pereira for home made cookies, ground coffee and jellies... - Ascensor da Bica for a great photo opp! - Teresa Alecrim for embroidered household linens - The delightfully restored Quiosques do Refresco (Refreshment Kiosks) located in Largo de Camões, Príncipe Real Gardens and Praça das Flores But Príncipe Real is not just about shopping - the restaurant scene is one of the most excit- príncipe real ing ones around. From local foodie favourites such as Prego da Peixaria, Cevicheria and colourful mansions and trendy shops Tease, to the classic and impeccably well-kept Pavilhão Chinês, a former 19th century tea and coffee shop, with comfy couches and glass cabinets displaying intriguing interna- Live like a local in the newest hip neighbourhood in town tional artifacts and curiosities, that perfectly embodies the spirit of the neighbourhood, Named after Queen Mary II’s firstborn, D. new life, while still maintaining its old-world Moving along, Príncipe Real is also one of as well as signature cuisine such as Miguel Pedro V, the Príncipe Real (Royal Prince) dis- charm. Embaixada is home to many Portu- the best parts of town to go antique shop- Castro e Silva’s flagship De Castro. trict is filled with gardens and colorful 19th guese designers that have chosen to display ping, with AR-PAB and Isabel Lopes da Century mansions, and is home to one of the here. An innovative concept in the Lisbon Silva both having their shops here, along Príncipe Real also houses one of the city’s coolest selection of stores in Lisbon. Bustling scene, in Embaixada you’ll find a number of with Solar, a shop dedicated to the ancient most absolute gems; the Botanical Garden. with local antique shops and concept stores, brands, like Amélie au Théâtre, Shoes Closet, Portuguese art of tiles - from the subtle Look close or you might miss it - although bio markets, Portuguese designers and art Urze, VLA Records, Organii Bebé, Organii designs of the 16th century, to the ener- the garden spans over 10 acres, it’s almost galleries, it’s the place to go if you’re look- Cosmética Biológica and Linkstore, among getic and bold motifs of the 19th, to the Art invisible from the outside as you enter it ing for something unique. Lisbon is rightly many others. Besides the commercial area, Noveau and Deco of the early 20th century. through a very nonchalant-looking gate on known as a trove of charming backstreets there are also a few restaurants and cafés. Downhill to the west of Bairro Alto is the the main street. However, the inside holds and terraced bistros, and none of its neigh- Just down the street there’s Entre Tanto, an São Bento neighborhood, dominated by the one of the most impressive collections of borhoods are more alive than Príncipe Real, a “indoor market” in the XVIII century Cas- former monastery—now the Assembly of subtropical vegetation in southern europe, shopper’s dream of design and clothing stores tilho Palace. The name is a play on words, the Republic, Portugal’s parliament—from standing proud since the 1870s, with over interspersed with quaint little cafés. which should convey a warm welcome and which it takes its name. The long Rua de 18,000 species and rare collections of Palms allude to the diversity offered by the almost São Bento is home to several interest- and Cycadaceae. The latter are extremely Bohemian Bairro Alto’s a bit less in-your- 20 independent retailers in the categories ing antique shops; Deposito da Marinha rare and are sometimes referred to as living face cousin, it sits just north of the famous of fashion, interior design, decoration and Grande hand-blown glasswork in copies fossils, as very few specimens survive today nightlife district, and takes you away from its gastronomy. In Entre Tanto one can enjoy an of old designs, Alma Lusa designer jewel- outside of botanical gardens. busy streets. Here, the main meeting point is informal, pleasurable, convenient and spon- lery, clothes and quirky products and Jorge the Principe Real garden, home to a delight- taneous shopping experience. Brands such as Welsh Oriental porcelain. At 396 S. Bento, All along the streets, colourful 19th century ful pink kiosk, Quiosque do Refresco, and Liquid, for fantastic Detox juices, Francisca you’ll find a wonderland of wood pieces; mansions pave the way as you wine and umbrellaed by a century-old cedar tree that Prata e Lata for unique jewelry, Anti Milk from columns, pedestals and wall panels, to intertwine what feel like previously undiscov- spreads its branches over 20 meters, provid- kid’s wear and Portuguese men’s swimwear delicate carvings of angels and model boats. ered corners, stumbling upon shop after shop ing shade to the garden. brand DCK are some of our highlights. Al- of some of the coolest stuff you never knew exandra Moura is also a nice place to drop by Homeware and interior design fans will you loved. This is the magic of this part of Daytime is fantastic to shop around, and for the Portuguese designer’s white dresses. also get their fix here, with the famous Prín- Lisbon; there are no crowds, no set itinerary, even though international brands such as 21pr Concept Store also deserves a mention, cipe Real Enxovais, located in the neigh- no extensive guides and maps, no one trying Barbour have settled here, Príncipe Real is as do Shourouk, a favourite of Anna Dello bourhood’s main street, that provides for to tell you where to go. You’re free to explore, all about going local. The highlight would Russo, the Christian Lacroix notepads and the royal houses of Spain, Sweden, Morocco enter, exit and roam around at our own pace, have to be Embaixada, dating from 1877, the sketchbooks, Patine showcasing the colour- and England, where you can custom-order stopping for a coffee or a snack here and newest and coolest concept store to hit the ful Castelbel collections and See Concept, a the finest linens in the country, or choose there while you soak in the beauty of neighbourhood. Housed inside one of Lis- reading glasses design brand. from the store’s pre-selected options. Some Príncipe Real. bon’s oldest palaces, a makeover has given it a of its famous clients include Michael Doug- las and Princess Caroline of Monaco. principe real

We– Embaixada recommend and Entre Tanto for the unique shopping opportunities – The Bio market on Saturdays to go green – AR-PAB for the antiques – The delightfully restored Quiosque do Refresco (Re- freshment Kiosk) located in the Príncipe Real Gardens – Cevicheria for Chef Kiko’s peruvian cuisine – The Botanical Garden for a well-deserved rest ALFAMA & CASTLE Where it all began...Lisbon’s birthplace! The ancient neighborhood

Intriguing Alfama, the city’s oldest two of many beautiful viewpoints across neighbourhood, melds rustic charm with a the city—offering riverscapes and rooftops FROM MID-MAY daily life unchanged in centuries. Its steep on one side and the National Pantheon (the staircases, tiny squares and labyrinthine 17th century Church of Santa Engrácia) on TO MID-JULY, alleyways spill down the southeastern slope the other. Across the street you’ll find the of Lisbon’s highest hill under the watchful Fundação Ricardo Espírito Santo, a living DON’T MISS THE gaze of the magnificent Castelo de São Jorge museum that houses the world’s largest col- (Saint George’s Castle). Alfama’s Moorish lection of 17th century decor, furniture and TRADITIONAL ‘FES- and Medieval origins are still evident at objects of art. Visit the workshops where every turn: cramped little houses, cobbled craftsmen use ancient techniques to restore, TAS DE LISBOA’! narrow streets and winding alleys (some guild and paint antiques as well as create ‘Festas de Lisboa’ is a two-month series of no wider than stone staircases) combine new pieces. Then its onwards and upwards summer shows and events that takes place to create an atmosphere of cozy familiar- to the Castle! annually in Lisbon’s historic quarters. The ity. Weave through the ancient warren of Castelo de São Jorge (Castle of St George) city is swathed in colorful paper garlands streets packed with caged canaries, fra- sits on the site of an ancient fortress that and people spill onto the streets, listening grant balconies and bohemian spirit. Peep was used by the Romans, Visigoths and to fado, eating grilled sardines, drinking the into the churches of São Miguel and Santo Moors. Conquered from the Moors in famous vinho verde (green/young wine) and Estêvão and explore the nooks and crannies 1147 by Portugal’s first king, it remained generally embracing regional art and culture, of tiny courtyards, stairwells, markets and a royal residence until the 16th century; it music and food. June also brings the much- fado houses, all seemingly oblivious to the was later severely damaged in the devastat- celebrated ‘Festas dos Santos Populares’ onslaught of time. ing earthquake of 1755. Today the fully (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), with the One of the most exhilarating ways to dis- restored castle boasts courtyards, battle- partying peaking on the night of June 12th— cover the area is aboard the delightfully ments and beautiful gardens within its an- St. Anthony’s Day, Lisbon’s patron saint— quirky tram number 28. First stop is the cient Moorish walls. A multimedia exhibi- with huge parades and city-wide festivities. Cathedral Sé, built in 1150 (three earth- tion bring the city’s history to life while St Anthony’s Day also hosts the city’s annual quakes and numerous restorations are re- fountains and peacocks grace the shady collective wedding ceremony, featuring hun- sponsible for its eclectic architectural style.) surrounds. Worth the hike (or tram ride) dreds of Lisboan ‘Noivas de Santo António’ Next stop up brings the Miradouro Santa to walk the ramparts and bask in the mes- (Brides of Saint Anthony). Wedding parties Luzia and Miradouro das Portas do Sol— merising city views. don’t come much bigger than this! ALFAMA & CASTLE

We- Chapito for arecommend relaxing sundowner - Foundation Espírito Santo for antique lovers - Miradouro de Santa Luzia & Portas do Sol for the best view of Lisbon - Castelo de São Jorge - Cathedral de Sé 22 BELÉM history by the waterfront Lisbon’s open-air ‘museum’

Unashamedly ostentatious, Belém’s water- every pioneer: from Bartolomeu Dias and Last but by no means least, head to Antiga front monuments and vast open spaces are a Vasco da Gama to Pedro Álvares Cabral and Confeitaria de Belém: home of some of the tribute to Portugal’s Age of Discoveries and Diogo Cão. most worthwhile discoveries available in legendary nautical adventurers. Lisbon today—Pastéis de Belém! Highlights of this iconic district include: This undisputed original and best Portu- Fifteenth century Portugal thrived in the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Jerónimos Monas- guese custard tart shop attracts daily crowds fields of navigation, astronomy, mapmaking tery): the exquisite 15th century UNESCO- to rival any of its surrounding monuments. and shipbuilding. Under the direction and listed monastery built to celebrate the mari- The recipe has remained a closely guarded legacy of Prince Henry the Navigator, time route to the Indies; secret since 1837. Savor the creamy delights pioneering local seafarers undertook peril- Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument to within the shop’s tile-covered interiors or ous voyages of exploration; their goal: to the Discoveries): a 52-meter-high tribute to take a bag away….maybe to the lush wa- discover—and ultimately control—the sea 33 key figures from Portugal’s Golden Age. terfront gardens of the Cultural Center of routes of the highly lucrative spice trade. How many can you identify..?; Belém—the perfect spot to catch your breath By the mid to late 16th century, scores of Wind Rose: a 50-meter-diameter marble after a long day’s sightseeing. From here, Portuguese colonies and trading posts linked mosaic (and map) gifted to Portugal by bask in views of the Ponte 25 de Abril (25th the coasts of Europe, Africa, the Middle East South Africa in 1960. (Climb the Monument of April Bridge) to the left—sister bridge and Asia: the Portuguese Empire had be- to the Discoveries for the best photos); of San Francisco’s Golden Gate—and the come history’s first global empire. Torre de Belém (Belém Tower): the original Cristo Rei statue (a Rio de Janeiro replica) to 1525 fortress in the middle of the water, now the right. As the dazzling sunset reflects off Belém’s monuments and exhibitions cel- a UNESCO World Heritage site and impres- the sparkling Tagus onto Belém’s magnificent ebrate every momentous journey—Ceuta, sive tourist attraction; monuments, ponder another perfect day in North Africa in 1415; Africa’s Cape of Good Centro Cultural de Belém: a multi-purpose the city that shaped the world. Hope in 1488; India in 1498; Brazil in 1500; arts center that houses the free-to-enter Mu- Thailand in 1511; China in 1513and Japan in seu Berardo (Berardo Museum) of Modern 1542 to name but a few—and immortalize and Contemporary Art. - Antiga Confeitaria de Belém for the unique custard tarts - The vast square cloister of Jeromimos - Monastery and the tombs of Vasco da Gama and Luís Vaz de Camões - Garden of the Cultural Center of Belém - The Tower of Belém - The Berardo Collection of Contemporary Art

26 lx factory creativity and innovation One of the newest, coolest and most understated locations in Lisbon

Resting almost directly below one of Lisbon’s tory holds a weekly flea market on Sunday other individual-table area inside next to the go-to store for any and all things quirky or greatest landmarks, the 25th of April Bridge, in its main street, where vendors sell quirky open kitchen, where you can have a tasting vintage, with a wide selection of humorous sits one of the newest, coolest and most un- vintage and local designer clothes, vinyls, old menu, 1300 Taberna prides itself on using posters, coffee mugs, maps, iPhone cases derstated locations in Lisbon – LX Factory. CDs, handmade jewellery and everything in local and genuinely Portuguese ingredients, and much more. LX Factory is also home to between – think of it as a concentrated ver- sourced from small-batch producers. an impressive collection of street art, being Kept hidden for years, this old manufactur- sion of Portobello Market. On anniversary After lunch, head to Livraria Ler Devagar the stage for some of the first interventions ing complex, once one of the most impor- days and some special dates, they also host – translated as “reading slowly”, this alterna- in the city by the new wave of street artists tant in the city, has been returned to the city an open day with live music, street food and tive bookshop, concept store, art gallery and that have swept Lisbon in recent years, and in the form of LX Factory, one of the most a whole lot of entertainment for a day well internet café is the perfect place to rest easy its unique architecture is an attraction in creative and innovative hubs in the country. spent in the sun. after a delicious meal. You can catch up on and of itself. Occupied by professionals of the creative your reading, find a new book, gaze at the bi- industry, it also serves as a stage for a wide And grab a coffee you should, along with cycle suspended from the ceiling or engage in But the true appeal of LX Factory lies range of happenings related to fashion, arts, all sorts of other delicious food and pas- a friendly conversation with staff and locals, beyond its stores or restaurants. The re- architecture, music and much more. tries, many unique to the places that call LX just like in an old-timey salon. vival of a once-abandoned super-industrial Factory home. Landeau is one such perfect complex, which dates back to 1846, tells the First taken over by small businesses and cre- example, and the fact that it thrives on selling Foodies definitely have it covered, as do story of the city and its people. Its graffiti- ative professionals, LX Factory is a modern just a single item can give you an idea of just shopping addicts. Besides the aforemen- laden walls, its decadent, industrial look and hip art centre that houses various start-up how good it is – Landeau’s chocolate cake is tioned weekly flea market, LX Factory regu- the fact that it persevered – no, thrived – in businesses, ranging from funky restaurants legendary, and a top contender for best choc- larly hosts pop-up stores, as well as playing such an adverse environment, and is today to work spaces for designers and artists. olate cake of all time, having taken the city by host to some of the city’s quirkiest, most one of the country and Europe’s foremost Such was the creative vibe in this area that it storm and delighting locals and tourists alike original designers or just plain alternative creative hubs is a testament to the will of the almost passes for an independent city, be it in with its super soft and gooey texture, that is stores. Organii, born from a family project of community. As you walk the dilapidated its unique architecture, atmosphere, creation sumptuously filled with chocolate and a little two sisters, aims to bring to the local market sidewalks, as you admire its one-of-a-kind and evolution – after the first settlers in the hint of salt. 1300 Taberna, which boasts pos- one of the greatest trends of the new millen- street art, as you stumble upon and discover form of start-ups, coffee shops and bars start- sibly one of the coolest decorations in town, nium; bio cosmetics. Healthy, sustainable liv- new stores, ideas, products and possibly ed to join the scene to cater to the profession- is an open-spaced, dark-coloured restaurant ing and respect for the environment are the even new people, as you take in the beauty als hard at work there. Shops soon followed with a tasteful decoration, filled with objects founding pillars of this beauty store, offering of its far-from-perfect architecture, you’ll and the whole complex became a booming, from everywhere, from grandma’s attic to the chemical-free cosmetic solutions. Lifetime understand how LX Factory – and Lisbon hip, well-frequented area of Lisbon. thrift shop, which make for a very cosy at- Kids Rooms is another great suggestion, with – have managed to reinvent themselves mosphere, despite seating around 100 people its super-creative furniture for kids where without losing their authenticity. More interesting than the startups it holds, – from the small, joint table area at the door, design, quality and practicality meet fantasy are the businesses they sparked – LX Fac- where you nibble and share dishes, to an- and imagination, while Bairro Arte is the lx factory We recommend - Landeau for the chocolate cake - The vintage market every Sunday for thrift shopping and quirky gifts - Organii for the bio cosmetics - Oh!Brigadeiro for some of the best brigadeiros in town - 1300 Taberna for a twist on local Portuguese food - Ler Devagar for one of the most interesting bookstores in town

Lisbon From beaches to vineyards, palaces to fishermen’s huts, each trip showcases a different face of Portugal... DayTrips How long have you got?

32 SINTRA & CASCAIS Green and blue, mountains and sea... port the imagination deep into the mysterious seeking a more high-end beach retreat. ESCAPE TO SINTRA mountains. Think sailing boats and surfing, exclusive There are almost too many sites to mention. condominiums and horse-riding through VIA QUELUZ Visit: Palácio National de Sintra, the oldest the waves, golfing and yachting followed by Before Sintra envelops you in its exuberant royal palace in Portugal, for its azulejo-smoth- a picnic on the beach with a great bottle of natural and architectural beauty, start ac- ered interiors; Palácio National de Pena (Pena wine. Don’t miss the ice-cream at Santini climatizing your senses at the ‘Portuguese National Palace) for its storybook, ice-cream- Gelati Fini – favourite of King Juan Carlos 1 Versailles’: Palácio Nacional de Queluz (Que- colored turrets and magical hilltop location; of Spain. Try it for yourself! luz National Palace). Just 15-kilometers from Quinta da Regaleira (Regaleira Palace) for its Lisbon city center on the Sintra Road, the lavish Gothic, Manueline and Renaissance former royal residence dates back to 1747 and architecture and extraordinary garden won- GUINCHO was one of Europe’s last great Rococo palaces. derland comprising underground tunnels and Roughly six miles beyond Cascais lie the Then it’s onwards to one of Portugal’s most caves, towers, fountains and wells; A Piriquita, sandy beaches, dunes and pine forests of revered towns…Sintra is all you’ve read and for the famous travesseiros (flaky pastries the Guincho Coast. Recognized as having more. It take less than an hour from Lisbon to filled with melon jam, almonds and eggs) and some of the world’s best breaks, it’s a surf- travel back to the age of imperial Portugal and Fábrica das Verdadeiras Queijadas da Sapa ers’ and wind-surfers’ paradise, complete Europe’s original epicenter of Romantic archi- for to-die-for queijadas: delicate homemade with jaw-dropping Atlantic Ocean views. tecture. Portuguese aristocrats have followed goat’s cheese and almond cakes. Magical, Here nature is untamed and dramatic; their Royals here since the 14th century. ethereal, timeless….describing Sintra is like the waves are big and the wind is strong. And it’s not hard to see why as you drive the trying to catch the moon: visit and enjoy. Whether you’re watching the surf champi- region’s winding roads. Open the windows onships, horse-riding or simply enjoying and inhale the pure air of the Serra de Sintra the vast swathes of sand, embrace every (Sintra Mountains), fresh with the scent of the CASCAIS inch of ruggedness: you’re in Guincho! region’s thousand different species of plants. Then float away on the dreamy UNESCO BEACHSIDE World Heritage imagery revealed before you: CABO DA ROCA sprawling baroque palaces amidst box hedges SOPHISTICATION Cape Roca—’where the land ends and the and fountains; towered and turreted sum- Perhaps one of Lisbon’s most underrated sea begins’ according to famous Portuguese mer residences shaded by magnificent formal enclaves, Cascais melds the laidback life- poet Luís de Camões—marks Europe’s most gardens; hilltop princess-palaces silhouetted style of the American East Coast with westerly point. Head to the lighthouse for the pink, yellow and red against a turquoise European refinement and sophistication. best views. Don’t forget to collect your com- sky…. Everywhere, glazed azulejos whisper a It’s leisurely and casual yet uniquely chic – memorative certificate: not everyone gets this regal past and the awe-inspiring views trans- the elegant choice for well-dressed families close to the edge... We recommend IN SINTRA - Piriquita for typical pastries - Casa Branca for Portuguese linen - Loja do Vinho to taste or buy - Portuguese wines and cheeses IN CASCAIS - Restaurant Porto de Santa Maria for excellent fish & seafood overlooking the ocean - Santini for fantastic ice-cream MAFRA, ERICEIRA & ÓBIDOS Go west for baroque extravagance and perfect waves

edition of Os Lusíadas by Luís de Camões, MAFRA regarded as Portugal’s national poet. ÓBIDOS Not far from Mafra, travel back in time NATIONAL PALACE to the turn of the 20th century at Olaria THE WEDDING Mafra’s grandiose palace-monastery de- Tipica Joao Franco (Typical Village of José fies description. Ordered by King João V Franco). This fascinating and somewhat PRESENT TOWN in 1717 to celebrate the birth of his first surreal miniature working village showcas- This romantic medieval village was originally child, it was reputedly designed to com- es the traditional culture and handicrafts of a gift from King Dinis to Queen Isabel on pete in magnificence with the Spanish the surrounding area, crafted using tradi- their wedding day in 1282; it was then pre- royal palace, El Escorial. The overwhelm- tional techniques by renowned Portuguese sented by each newly-married Portuguese ing architectural details include over 5000 potter and sculptor José Silos Franco. King to his Queen until the 19th century. As doorways, 2500 windows, 880 rooms, 154 pristine as it is picturesque, Óbidos remains grandstaircases, 29 courtyards and 330 a perfectly photogenic jumble of cobblestone monks’ cells. The two bell towers together ERICEIRA alleyways, whitewashed churches, colorful house over 100 bells (the largest collection houses, dazzling tiles and flowerpots over- in the world), still played every Sunday and RIDE THE WAVES flowing with geraniums and bougainvillea— audible across a distance of 25 kilometers Perched on cliffs overlooking the Atlantic, all embraced within the protective walls of (15 miles). Tour the lavish royal apart- Ericeira is a charming and lively resort a 12th century castle. Today, high-end bars ments; visit the 11 chapels of the pink and with a huge claim to fame. Beneath the and restaurants jostle for space with luxury grey marble basilica; marvel at the bizarre- pretty narrow streets, whitewashed chapels, handicraft and gift shops. Also worth a visit medical instruments in the hospital and blue-edged houses and superb seafood is the Centro de Design de Interiores − Maria pharmacy; and walk around the beautiful restaurants stretches Europe’s first World José Salavisa. Dedicated to the promotion of eight-square-kilometer wildlife garden, Surfing Reserve: 4 km (2.5 miles) of out- interior design and showcasing the collection originally conceived by the King as a deer standing natural surf breaks, and one of of Portuguese interiors pioneer, Maria José park and source of hunting, entertainment, only a handful of protected surf reserves Salavisa, The village’s seasonal delights include food and firewood. Last but by no means in the world (alongside Malibu and Santa July’s Medieval Fair—think knights, court least, save time for the mind-blowing li- Cruz, California, and Manly, Australia). music and theatrical shows—and Novem- brary; adorned with marble and jacaranda- Within the reserve lies Ribeira d’Ilhas ber’s International Chocolate Festival, when wood, it is one of Europe’s finest, housing Beach, widely-regarded as one of Europe’s incredible edible sculptures crown Óbidos over 40,000 rare volumes including the ear- best surfing beaches and host to an annual the chocolate capital of the world. Further liest edition of Homer in Greek, a trilingual round of the ASP World Tour Surf Cham- excellent surf can be found at nearby Peniche, bible from the early 16th century and a first pionship. famed for its superb ‘Supertubos’ break. We recommend - Restaurante a Ilustre Casa de Ramiro in Óbidos for the traditional Arroz de Pato risotto with duck - Restaurante Furnas in Ericeira for fresh fish grilled to perfection - Bread at Pão da Nossa vila — so fresh it’s warm! - The Library in Mafra’s Palace - Monastery with its breathtaking collection of rare editions - Peniche for the surfers among us — known for its great waves! Alentejo Antidote to modern living

Regional handicrafts include ceramics, PORTUGAL’S weaving and cow-bells. The rugged coast- MONSARAZ line hides a plethora of unspoiled beaches Near to Evora, high above the River Gua- TUSCANY and bays. And to top it all, Alentejo is a diana on the border with Spain, the tiny They say in Alentejo, that even time takes gastronome’s dream. Home to pata negra walled town of Monsaraz is straight out of its time. And as you drive through the (the cured prosciutto-like meat of the black a Medieval fairytale. Fortified by the endless wheat fields and gently undulating Iberian pig), staples include pork, bread, Knights Templar in the 14th century, life plains of Portugal’s largest (yet least popu- olive oil and an infusion of local herbs and continues in this atmospheric enclave much lated) region, the overwhelming desire is spices. Must-trys include açorda (a soupy as it did centuries ago. White low-rise to cast your watch and worries aside. In combination of bread, garlic, coriander, houses with outdoor staircases line narrow Alentejo, where the baking sun dictates the olive oil, water and egg) and the cold gas- cobbled streets in the shadow of the impos- pace of life, no-one’s in a hurry. Dominated pacho soup. Alentejo’s desserts will take ing castle. Climb the battlements for a bird’s by vineyards, olive groves and the world’s you within a mouthful of heaven; try Elvas eye view of the town, the vast Alentejan largest cork oak forest, Alentejo prides itself plums and sinful Pão de Rala, packed with plains and into neighboring Spain. on sustainable agriculture and the richness egg yolks, sugar and almonds: it’s crazily of its land and heritage. calorific, but you only live once! It is also fast emerging as one of Europe’s VILA VIÇOSA most exciting wine destinations (while Vila Viçosa is a sparkling vision of mar- thankfully still favoring the region’s indig- EVORA ble—a whole town constructed from the enous varieties of grape), with Wine Route Less than two hours from Lisbon, Evora local ‘white gold’, the mainstay of the local signs edging the long, straight main roads is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, widely economy since Roman times. The 16th (call ahead for appointments). In the towns, considered to be one of Portugal’s most century Ducal Palace with its imposing small whitewashed houses with flat roofs beautiful towns. It is packed with 110-meter marble façade tells the story of and colorful borders cluster around gothic treasures that include Neolithic monu- the mighty Bragança dynasty whose kings castles: head to Portalegre, Nisa, Marvão, ments, the 2nd century Roman Temple of reigned Portugal for nearly 300 years. Castelo de Vide and Alter do Chão in the Diana, a 12th century cathedral (where the The family’s former hilltop castle, replete north east for five excellent examples. There flags of Vasco da Gama’s ships were blessed with secret passages and high vaulted ceil- are also three extraordinary Natural Parks: prior to his journey to India) plus numer- ings, now houses the Palaeolithic, Roman South West Alentejo and the Vicentina ous Renaissance and Gothic churches, and Egyptian treasures of the Museu de Coast (the only place in Portugal where squares, palaces and museums. If you Arqueologia (Archaeological Museum). you can see otters in their natural habitat); can stomach it, don’t miss the macabre Other local treasures come in the form of Guadiana Valley on the banks of the River 15th century Capela de Ossos (Chapel of divine desserts; try the tibornas (with eggs, Guadiana and Serra de São Mamede occu- Bones), lined with the bones and skulls of sugar, almonds and squash). pying Southern Portugal’s highest ground. some 5000 monks: not for the faint-hearted. -RestauranteWe recommend Luar de Janeiro in Évora for typical Alentejo cuisine and the most amazing pata negra ham -Loja da Mizette in Monsaraz for mantas (blankets), rugs, carpets, double-sided travel rugs and made- to-order Capote Alentejano (caped coats) Palmela, Arrabida & Azeitão Scenic wineries amid sprawling nature

Arrábida dazzles like a white beacon amidst wines. The Moscatel is made out of Castelão PALMELA, ARRA- the dense green hills. grapes, an indigenous variety that thrives Follow the small winding road that takes in southern Portugal and was brought to BIDA & AZEITAO you to the sublime hidden beach and calm prominence by the da Fonseca family; Travelling to Palmela from Lisbon, via the emerald waters of Portinho da Arrábida. Periquita is the oldest Portuguese table Tagus River’s 25th of April Bridge, is a Or head to the charming villages of Azeitão wine, enjoyed for its fruity, spicy character. cross-over experience in more ways than at the foot of the mountains, famed for It’s worth visiting the cellars in the Manor one. Within minutes, the long white-sand their wine (housed in extensive cellars), ol- House Museum as well as taking a trip beaches of the Atlantic coast rise into tower- ives and delicious queijo de Azeitão sheep’s to the family’s José de Sousa Winery in ing, chalky cliffs and the surrounding hills cheese. Other specialties of the area include southern Alentejo, complete with ampho- burst with lush Mediterranean vegetation. azulejos in São Simão and the divine tortas rae cellar. Castelo da Palmela (Palmela Castle), con- de azeitão sponge rolls. Close to Alfarim, quered from the Moors in the 12th century, the tiny village of Aldeia do Meco is a has incredible views across the Arrábida quasi-private beach retreat for Lisboans BACALHOA WINE Natural Park that stretch, on clear days, all keen to escape the city incognito. On Praia the way to the city. September sees the town’s do Meco, the Bar do Peixe remains a prime ESTATE infamous wine party in the main square, spot for a tasty lunch or dinner on the sea- (Vila Nogueira de Azeitão) Paços do Concelho, where locals demon- facing terrace. Fresh fish, anyone? Founded in 1922 as João Pres & Sons, strate their grape-treading techniques and Bacalhôa Wines has developed into one of fireworks explode from the top of the castle: Portugal’s most innovative wine producers. a great show if your schedule allows... JOSÉ MARIA DA In 1998, Commander José Berardo became Neighboring Arrábida takes its name from the principal shareholder. The company the Arabic word for ‘place of prayer’; after FONSECA WINE continues to grow from strength to strength even just a few moments breathing in the with new vines and properties, modernized fresh air and wild, isolated surrounds it’s ESTATE wineries and vast contemporary art collec- easy to see why. The Arrábida Natural (Vila Nogueira de Azeitão) tions all true to its pervading theme of ‘Art, Park extends some 10,000 hectares and Founded in 1834 by José Maria da Fonseca Wine and Passion’. The beautiful Quinta da boasts a soil, micro-climate and diversity (and still in the hands of his descendants), Bacalhôa estate, formerly belonging to the of flora and fauna considered amongst the this gorgeous old estate is famed for its Portuguese royal family, dates back to the best in Portugal. In the heart of the park, Moscatel de Setúbal and Periquita, the two first half of the 15th century. Now classified the sprawling 16th century Convento da leading ambassadors for fine Portuguese a National Monument, it also houses the country’s largest private collection of azule- jos and an array of modern art. -We José Maria darecommend Fosenca wine estate - Bacalhoa wine estate - Watching the sunset at Meco Beach, sipping a drink on the terrace of Bar do Peixe...Cheers!

48 Comporta & Tróia Immerse in the ‘eco’ lifestyle amidst nature’s rawest beauty

Caroline of Monaco, Christian Louboutin, Setúbal (one of the world’s largest wine COMPORTA Jacques Grange and the Rockefeller family, regions boasting nearly 10,000 hectares of Comporta is fast gaining a reputation as vineyards). Exit at Setúbal and follow signs & TRÓIA Lisbon’s trendiest—and most chilled-out— for the Tróia Ferry. See how many birds Set within the Sado Estuary Nature Re- summer beach retreat. Find a deserted spot you can spot during your 20 minute cross- serve, Comporta overwhelms visitors with to call your own and indulge in the serious ing of the picturesque Sado Estuary, also its wild natural beauty. A lagoon leads to art of relaxation. a hotspot for the region’s resident popula- imposing dunes that flatten into rice fields Even closer to Lisbon you’ll find Tróia, tion of bottlenose dolphins. Once across and vast pine forests in one direction, and where the dark waves of Comporta fade to the river, continue straight ahead for ten mellow powder beaches flanked by pristine an almost Caribbean turquoise. A stagger- minutes to Comporta. Past Comporta, the rolling waves in the other. A rustic bohe- ing 18 kilometers of uninterrupted golden Grândola road will take you to the equally mian vibe abounds, with the focus firmly sand and some of the country’s cleanest beautiful beaches of Carvalhal and Praia on simple, outdoor living: a game of cards water make Tróia the escape of choice for do Pêgo. Take an alternative route back to on the beach, grilled fish in a waterfront couples and young families alike seeking the Hotel via the charming medieval port, café, rustic chic fishing houses with outdoor the ultimate beach buzz with the minimum Moorish castle, waterfront cafes and handi- showers and views that stretch forever. The of effort. It’s a firm favorite with dolphins craft shops of Alcácer do Sal. On your omnipresent storks personify the unspoiled too! return to Lisbon, admire the city by night rural stillness, with authenticity, space and Keen to see for yourself? Leave Lisbon by as you cross beneath the sail-like cables of harmony the words on everybody’s lips. A the Southern freeway, crossing over the the 12 kilometer Vasco da Gama Bridge: a firm favorite amongst the likes of Princess 25th of April Bridge, and head towards beautiful finale to a breathtaking day. KickingWe back recommend and soaking up the mellow vibe of Comporta’s uncrowded sands, fishermen’s huts, simplistically stylish shacks and hippie-chic boutiques. It’s the ‘secret’ summer retreat of fashionistas, media-moguls and off-stage politicians for good reason... Lisbon Unique 100% ORIGINAL Experiences 100% PORTUGUESE

54 Moto-Sidecar Tour of Lisbon The authentic way to discover the city

Discover the city from the ground up in this and its UNESCO-listed tower that marks the with a stop at the 15th century Jerónimos exhilarating tour from the sidecar of a motor- end of the land and the beginning of the sea. Monastery, the pinnacle of Manueline-Portu- cycle, driven by an experienced rider. Ascend Pay tribute to Portugal’s maritime past at the guese Gothic architecture, built to commem- through the narrow cobbled streets and Monument of Discoveries, then savor the orate the discovery of the sea route to India. atmospheric surrounds of the ancient Alfama essence of Lisbon in the form of traditional Visit the tombs of Vasco da Gama and Luís quarter to the breathtaking views of the city Pastéis de Belém (custard tarts) at Antiga de Camões, Portugal’s national poet, before as seen from the reconstructed ramparts Confeitaria de Belém—you can even take a whizzing back to the Hotel through Lisbon’s of Castelo São Jorge (Castle of St George). private peek into the kitchen that has housed labyrinthine streets. A tour that’s as exhilarat- Descend to the historical vastness of Belém the secret recipe since 1837! End your tour ing as it is educational: don’t miss out!

Moto-Sidecar Photo Workshop If a picture is worth a thousand words, make sure you get the best shot...

Team up with locally based professional side the city’s most spectacular miradours São Jorge before stopping in Bairro Alto photographer Harold Naaijer on this (viewpoints). Naaijer will follow on his and Chiado, birthplace of Portuguese poet insider’s-eye tour of Lisbon’s top photo- scooter offering top tips and advice on Fernando Pessoa. Proceed onwards to the graphic hotspots—as experienced from how to frame the perfect shot, maximize old port of Santos and Belém (pausing for the sidecar of a motorcycle. After a quick the exquisite Lisboan light or capture the a quick bica and Pastéis de Belém), before briefing and check of your photographic city’s most evocative scene…You’ll drive clicking to you heart’s content beneath the equipment, embark on a thrilling ride down the tree-lined Avenida da Liber- imposing Manueline towers of the Jeróni- through winding streets and leafy squares dade, crossing the squares and visiting the mos Monastery. Your holiday snaps will to discover glimpses of daily life along- traditional quarters of Alfama and Castelo never be the same again. DURATION Up to 4 hours LOCATION Lisbon Maximum capacity 8 people (4 side cars) AVAILABILITY On request with a minimum of 24 hrs notice DURATION Up to 4 hours street art tour LOCATION Lisbon Maximum capacity of lisbon 8 people (4 side cars) AVAILABILITY Art aficionados, take note On request with a minimum of 48 hrs notice Lisbon is a vibrant city of pastel-coloured This exhilarating, tailor-made Street Art buildings, terracotta rooftops, cobbled experience is led by an art guide, and will take streets and endless blue and white azulejos an average duration of four hours, whizzing (Portuguese tiles) that transform ordinary guests down tree-lined Avenida da Liberdade streets into works of art. It should come as and across the squares and traditional quar- no surprise to find an extra-large chiselled ters of Alfama and Castelo São Jorge, Bairro face on the side of a building by renowned Alto and Chiado. Guests will ride on a vintage Portuguese artist Vhils, or his masterful col- sidecar with their driver and experience the laboration with Italian artist Pixel Pancho on city’s unique vibrancy from the ground up. a wall near the Tagus river, or even a 40-foot drawing of Portuguese explorer Pedro Alvares One thing’s for sure: participants’ Instagram Cabral by Brazilian artist Nunca, who rose feed will have never looked cooler! to international fame when included in the landmark 2008 Street Art exhibition at Tate Back at the Hotel, the Portuguese contempo- Modern in London. rary art collection is extensive and eclectic, consisting of magnificent tapestries, sculp- In the wake of the global growth of interest tures, oil paintings and more. None of the in street art, Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon artworks in the Hotel appeared by accident invites art connoisseurs to get acquainted – from creation to curation, a careful process with art both inside the Hotel and out on the of selection involved a detailed collabora- streets of Lisbon. Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lis- tion with artists and property owners for the bon Street Art Tour in partnership with Un- Hotel’s grand opening in 1959. derdogs includes a visit to all locations where both Portuguese and international artists have The collection includes dozens of works of art been transforming Lisbon’s landscape with from some of Portugal’s most renowned art- their large-scale mural interventions. ists, such as Almada Negreiros, Pedro Leitão, Estrela Faria and Querubim Lapa, among The itinerary takes in the work of renowned others, and which can be admired in the artists and collectives such as Alexandre Farto public areas of the Hotel with the help of the (aka Vhils), PixelPancho, How & Nosm, Hotel’s free iPad art app that boasts a number ±MaisMenos±, Okuda, Nunca, Bicicleta Sem of interactive features and tools to enhance Freio, Clemens Behr and Sainer, among oth- users’ experience. ers. SAILING A view from the river—simply unforgettable...

SAILING AND OEIRAS CRUISE waters: it’s what vacations were made for. Venture slightly further from the madding A DAY ABOARD SIGHTSEEING crowd on this magnificent yacht cruise from Portugal is blessed with a wonderfully the Oeiras Marina (at the mouth of the A YACHT mild, year-round climate and a breathtak- Tagus River) along the coast to the Fortress We all dream of the perfect day aboard a ing coastline that runs into many hun- of Saint Julião. Drop anchor in a quiet bay yacht…so why not charter one for yourself dreds of kilometers. It was from here that and enjoy a refreshing dip in the Atlantic and up to nine friends and turn those dreams pioneering explorers first set sail in the into reality? This exhilarating experience will 15th century to discover the world, plant- be tailor-made to fit your exact specifications. ing the seeds of Portugal’s unrivalled sea- Whether you’re keen to sight-see close to the faring legacy. Embark on your own ma- shore, enjoy the blissful tranquility of stunning rine odyssey (albeit on a slightly smaller sea-views, dine on board or in a secluded bay, scale!) along the north shore of the Tagus cruise to the fine sands of Cascais’s beaches, River from Praça do Comércio (the origi- snorkel, swim, chill or recharge …. Indulge in nal maritime entry to Lisbon) to Belém life’s finest details in waters that run deep with (the point from which Vasco da Gama the spirit of adventure. Enjoy! departed for India in 1497). Let the expe- rienced crew teach you how to sail or sit back and soak up the sights, sounds and sunshine of Lisbon’s historic shoreline. OEIRAS CRUISE A DAY ABOARD A YACHT DURATION DURATION Up to 4 hours Up to 8 hours Maximum capacity Maximum capacity Up to 7 people per boat Up to 10 people per yacht Type of boat Type of boat Beneteaux 351 or similar Astinor 1275 – 42 feet LUNCH LUNCH Please order your personalized picnic box (payable extra) through the concierge the evening before Please order your personalized picnic box (payable extra) through the concierge the evening before AVAILABILITY AVAILABILITY On request with a minimum of 24 hrs notice On request with a minimum of 48 hrs notice PRIVATE BULLFIGHT Exclusive afternoon with a bullfighting legend Spend the afternoon as the private guest family for generations. Experience a private ring? Or that it comprises three distinct of one of Portugal’s most highly regarded bullfight, performed by António himself, phases that range from the elegant art of the cavaleiros (horseback bullfighters), An- along with a Tourinha fight, performed by cavaleiros to the courageous insanity of the tónio Ribeiro Telles, at his Torrinha Estate his son with a domestic cow. This is a rare forcados (who challenge the bull without in southern Ribatejo—the heart of bull- opportunity to gain personal experience either weapons or protection)? Share the fighting country. of the traditions and specifics of Portu- highlights of António’s career through his During your exclusive visit, António will guese bullfighting - known as Corrida de passionate recollections and gain a privi- introduce you to Ribatejo’s magnificent Touros or Tauromaquia - from one of its leged insight into the fascinating, all-en- landscape and extraordinary Ribeiro Telles most humble and widely respected masters. compassing lifestyle of a Portuguese cava- horses. Discover his enduring passion for Did you know that it differs hugely from leiros. A unique and unmissable experience the surrounding land and the inherent role its Spanish counterpart and is a ‘bloodless that delves deep into the heart of Portugal’s that bulls and horses have played in his fight’, meaning the bull is not killed in the rural and cultural heritage. Distance Approx. 1 hr 20 minutes by car from the Hotel Location Coruche in Ribatejo (‘above the river Tagus’) region Maximum capacity 4 people Availability This program is only possible if booked with a minimum of 4 days notice and is strictly subject to the availability of António Ribeiro Telles and family.

68 wine harvest at josé maria da fonseca Enjoy one of Portugal ’s oldest traditions during this unique day trip

The end of summer and beginning of fall is To immerse guests in this local, centuries- A visit to this beautiful location is a memo- synonymous with harvest, and in Portugal, old tradition, the Concierge team at Four rable experience that will take one backstage it’s the start of the Vindimas, one of the old- Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon has partnered into the culture of a seventh-generation est Portuguese traditions, where the grapes with JMF, José Maria da Fonseca, who have wine-making family – and one might even are harvested from the vines to produce the been producing wine since 1834, to create end up finding out about some secrets of the year’s wines. a day-trip to their estate, where guests can trade. follow the whole process first-hand, as well The Vindimas represent a unique time of as participate in tastings and visit the family’s Heading back to Lisbon’s buzzing Chiado year in Portugal, being the culmination of house-museum, the most beautiful in the district, JMF’s recently-opened By The Wine almost a year of work – after the pruning in region. bar is also a fantastic place to try many of January, the arms start to grow in the spring, the best Portuguese wines. The 18-metre and in the summer the grapes acquire their Tastings include the famous Azeitão cheese (60 foot) long counter and more than 3,000 colour, aroma and taste. Between September and pie, and some of their best wines – the bottles that decorate its ceiling provide the and October, when the grapes mature, and Hexagon and the DSF Colecção Privada perfect ambience for what is also a great thus their weight, acidity and colour present Verdelho are some of the highlights. Guests spot for some petiscos (Portuguese tapas). the optimal characteristics to produce wine, will also be able to take a tour of their breat- Among the different gastronomical options, the Vindimas take place – the grapes are har- taking gardens, as well as the vast vineyards one can enjoy Alentejo cheese, Iberian cold vested and the production of the wine begins. that compose what is one of the largest wine- cuts, oysters from the Sado region, traditional They are a true staple in Portuguese ethnog- producing estates in the country, with an area Portuguese beefsteak sandwich, mussels, raphy and, in the olden days, were accompa- of more than 650 hectares (1,600 acres). All salmon ceviche, carpaccio and a selection of nied by feasts and celebrations. Today, friends in all, the estate has more than 130 workers, different desserts to accompany the Moscatel and family still gather for this ritual where, in produces more than 10 million litres (2.2 de Setúbal wines. only a couple of days, they painstakingly take million gallons) of wine per year and exports a pair of scissors and a box and harvest the 80 percent of its production to more 70 coun- year’s crop. tries and manages more than 30 brands. Distance Approx. 45 minutes by car from the Hotel Location Vila Nogueira de Azeitão, Setúbal Maximum capacity 4 people Availability This program is only possible if booked with a minimum of 4 days notice and is subject to availability. Personal Shoppers Shop ‘til you drop! Duration: Iberian lifestyle: handmade woven blankets, LISBON FASHION Up to 4 hours VINTAGE eau de cologne, colorfully wrapped soaps Location: (including Oprah’s favorite allnatural & DESIGN Downtown Lisbon & ALTERNATIVE Claus Porto soap), china swallows, waxes, A perfectly tailored preview of the A-list Availability: candies, embroidered boxes, cook books, world of Portugal’s fashion elite: from the On request with a minimum BOUTIQUES liquors, teas, chocolates, whimsical Bordalo pioneer of Portuguese artistic fashion, Ana of 12 hrs notice Step back in time and embrace the bygone Pinheiro plates, ceramics and much more, Salazar, to the extrovert concept store of art of living with this insight into Chiado’s all beautifully presented in the atmospheric flamboyant Madeiran-born designer Fátima generations of craftsmanship: from the leg- surrounds of a former 19th century soap Lopes. Immerse in the fairytale world of endary candle store, Casa das Vellas factory. Authentic shopping at its immer- extravagant new designers, Storytailors, and Loreto, founded in 1789, to the embroi- sive best. the contemporary creations of Jimmy Shop dered household linens of Teresa Alecrim Camões, where you’ll find objects ranging and exquisite handmade leather gloves of Duration: from revisited traditional ceramic Cocker- world-renowned Luvaria Ulisses. Up to 4 hours els of Barcelos to computer bags, ceramics, Nearby, catch your breath over a bica at Location: candles and soaps.... one of A Brasileira’s coveted outdoor tables, Downtown Lisbon End your tour at Mude, the Museum of De- where the statue of Portuguese poet and Availability: sign and Fashion, located in a former bank writer Fernando Pessoa provides a classic On request with a minimum of 12hrs building in central downtown: an inspiring photo opportunity. Then head to the highly notice depending on stores’ hours combination of Francisco Capelo’s personal successful A Vida Portuguesa, a paradise of opening art and fashion collections alongside tempo- for those craving Portuguese traditions. rary design exhibits. Stylish enough for you? Select from genuine, thought-provoking products that celebrate a centuries-old

74 PRIVATE VIEWINGS Calling culture vultures everywhere… banker and art collector Ricardo do Espírito tre, further credit to his determination to CUSTOM-MADE Santo. He restored it as an 18th century aris- make art accessible to all: not bad for a man tocratic home and decorated it with items who once bought a Mona Lisa reproduc- MUSEUM VISITS from his private collection. In 1953, he do- tion thinking it was a pretty original…. The For the art and history lovers amongst us nated the palace and collections to a private Berardo Museum pays tribute to more than we suggest you start your cultural prom- Foundation, which remains dedicated to 800 original pieces of art ranging between enade here at the Hotel. With over 600 this day to the study and protection of deco- Picasso, Miró, Dalì, Francis Bacon, Warhol, pieces, our considered selection of unique rative arts and traditional crafts. Don’t miss Tàpies, Vieira da Silva, Paula Rego and Gil- pieces ranks the Hotel as a true museum. the rare collections of gold and metalwork, bert & George. Beginning at the entrance, and spilling tiles and carpets, as well as the shop selling through the inner areas of the Lobby, traditionally crafted reproductions created lounges, restaurants, corridors and even in the Foundation’s workshops. Palácio da bedrooms, we present a sequence of significant works that make up one of the Fronteira country’s most important collections of (Fronteira’s Palace) mid-century Portuguese art. Colecção Journey back in time to the outskirts of We can also arrange a private viewing Benfica, in north-west Lisbon, to Fronteira of each of the following three specialist Berardo Palace (often called the Palace of the Mar- venues: (Centro Cultural de Belém − Praça do quises), a privately owned residence built Império) in 1640. Still one of the city’s most striking Following in the steps of his dear friend, properties, your enthusiasm for its superb Fundação South-African lawyer Óscar Gatez, Joe decoration, stunning azulejos (some of the Berardo never forgot their common motto: finest in the city), contemporary furniture Ricardo “Every investor has the obligation to do and 17th and 18th century oil paintings good in his community”. Berardo became will increase with every room you enter. Espírito Santo a millionaire recycling gold-mine slag in The breathtaking formal gardens include abandoned South-African mines and, in a terraced walk, topiary garden and mes- Silva November 1988, created the Berardo Foun- merizing fountains. Countless beautiful (Largo das Portas do Sol, 2 – Castelo) dation: a private charity working in the tiles illustrate hunting, battle and religious The Palácio Azurara (Azurara Palace), fields of education, health and culture. In scenes, while mythological figures and located at the top of Lisbon’s ancient Alfama June 2007, his collection was installed on statues are spread among busts of Portu- neighborhood, was bought in 1947 by the a ten-year loan at the Belém Cultural Cen- guese Kings. CHIADO & BAIRRO ALTO

WeBold // Regular recommend // Gastro- Golf Days nostalgia Tour A golfer’s paradise Initially introduced by English aficionados starting point for golfers intent on enjoying Traditional Lisbon for gourmands engaged in the port wine industry, golf re- this fairway to heaven without compromising mains one of the key attractions of the Lisbon on the discovery of a city full of charms. GOURMET TOUR old-time bistro where no one lingers because region. With a choice of ten superb Green-fees and transport to the following there isn’t anywhere to sit down!) Recharge courses, the region was named the ‘Golf Des- golf courses can be organized through our OF LISBON your batteries with a glass of Ginja Espin- tination of the Year-Europe’ and ‘Established concierge service: Indulge in this gastronomic journey of heira Pequena at the crowded marble bar and TextDestination of the Year’ in 2007 and 2003 · Oitavos Dunes discovery into the finer tastes of Lisbon. Im- toast the delectable delights of Lisbon. respectively by the International Association · Golf de Estoril merse in the intoxicating flavors and aromas of Golf Tour Operators (IAGTO). · Aroeia Golf Club of Chiado’s A Carioca —the caffeine Duration: Located on top of one of Lisbon’s seven hills · Belas Clube de Campo addict’s dream— an antique coffee and Up to 4 hours in easy reach of all surroundings courses, · Quinta da Beloura Golf Club chocolate store that has been roasting and Location: Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon is the perfect · Quinta da Marinha Golf Club grinding beans of distinction for an eternity. Downtown Lisbon Buy your own to take-home (wrapped Availability: in paper, reminiscent of days of old) before On request with a minimum of 48 hrs notice GOLF COURSES heading to Nova Açoreana on Rua da Prata (Silver Street) in downtown Lisbon. In exis- Quinta da Marinha: Quinta da Marinha Oitavos: tence since 1938, it’s an address that grand- 30 minutes from Hotel 30 minutes from Hotel mothers pass onto their grandchildren—an Located on the famous Estoril Coast, 25 Oitavos Golfe lies within the Sintra-Cascais irresistible selection of quintessential Portu- kilometres from Lisbon, the Quinta da Natural Park. It is set among pine woods and guese goodies. Discover the magic and soak Marinha course was designed by the famous reforested dunes, in an area of great natural up the atmosphere while sampling the pro- Robert Trent Jones and is set in a private beauty. Being a seaside golf course, the ocean duce, from handmade cookies from Arraio- estate of 110 hectares, wooded with pine view is present all the time, although some los (with beer, nuts, almonds and cinnamon) trees. Stretching down to Guincho beach, this of the more fantastic scenery come from the to homemade breads; 24-month smoked course has some of the most majestic scen- Sintra mountains and Cabo da Roca the Eu- hams and black pork Paiola and Paio; re- ery in Portugal. Its hole number 13, a Par 4 rope’s most western point in Europe. gional jams; PBV Port Wine from Douro descending to the sea, is a picture postcard of The layout has been carefully crafted by one and Alentejo; and Queijo Serra, Queijo de Portuguese golf. of the greatest golf architects of our times, Azeitão and Queijo de Nisa cheeses. ex-president of the American Society of Golf The tour will wind up at A Ginjinha, a tiny Course Architects, Arthur Hills. Hills has bar that has been serving ginja (a sour cherry maintained and preserved the unique char- liqueur) to appreciative locals since 1840. It’s acteristics of the land, creating a 6.303 metre, one of the city’s best-surviving ‘tascas’ (an par 71 golf course.

80 Golf do Estoril: Belas Golf Club: Quinta da Beloura: Aroeira I: 30 minutes from Hotel 30 minutes from Hotel 30 minutes from Hotel 30 minutes from Hotel One of the oldest and best-known golf cours- Designed by the renowned golf architect Wil- This is the newest golf course built on the Designed by Frank Pennink, the Aroeira es in Portugal, Estoril was the location of the liam “Rocky” Roquemore, the Belas course, Estoril Coast, set in a 60-hectare area halfway courses skilfully blends the needs of a cham- Portuguese Open Championship for sev- situated between Belas and Queluz, is set in between Cascais and Sintra. It was designed by pionship golf course and the harmonious eral times. Many champions including Max Carregueira Mountains. Its fairways spread the American architect Rocky Roquemore. surroundings of natural landscape. The Faulkner and Seve Ballesteros have walked among the hills and provides an excellent The Quinta da Beloura course forms part of courses run through a pinewood sprinkled the fairways of this course. The designer view over the Sintra mountain range as far a residential development; it is very flat and with wild flowers, a genuine nature park Mackenzie has made excellent use of the pine as Pena Palace and, on the south bank of the so provides a pleasurable but not exhausting where many kinds of birds live. The English trees and eucalyptuses that, together with the river Tejo, Cabo Espichel. game. Its eighteen holes, with excellent views press named it the “Wentworth of Lisbon”, uneven terrain, make this course challenging over the Sintra mountain range, extend over and went on to describe the similarities be- in terms of accuracy rather than distance. 5774 metres for a par 73. tween Aroeira and the famous London club. Along its fairways, more than 40,000 trees Quinta da Marinha Oitavos: have been planted. Oaks, pines, palm trees, Aroeira II: 30 minutes from Hotel cedars and magnolias create a beautiful green 30 minutes from Hotel Oitavos Golfe lies within the Sintra-Cascais landscape around the course. - This course has a fairly different concept of Natural Park. It is set among pine woods and Adding to the beauty of the course, there are golf from Aroeira I, consisting of large fast reforested dunes, in an area of great natural lakes dotted over almost its full extent. These greens, some of which are more than 700 m2 beauty. Being a seaside golf course, the ocean are also the spots where golfers will experience and are equipped with Penn A2 grass. Aroei- view is present all the time, although some greater difficulties. The parallel holes 16 and ra II is the first Portuguese golf course to use of the more fantastic scenery come from the 17 have narrow fairways with a lake between this type of grass on it greens, which can be Sintra mountains and Cabo da Roca the Eu- them, requiring very accurate drives. cut to a height of only 2 mm. rope’s most western point in Europe. At the eighteenth hole, a 372-metre par 4, the With the opening of its second course, The layout has been carefully crafted by one green is hidden behind the largest lake, which Aroeira has become the largest golfing centre of the greatest golf architects of our times, provides an exciting and beautiful finish to in the Lisbon region and is also an attractive ex-president of the American Society of Golf your game leisure and tourism centre, especially in view Course Architects, Arthur Hills. Hills has One of the newest golf course of the Estoril of its nearby beaches. maintained and preserved the unique char- Coast set in a 60 hectare area halfway between acteristics of the land, creating a 6.303 metre, Cascais and Sintra, it was designed by Rocky par 71 golf course. Roquemore. It is very flat and so provides a pleasurable but not exhausting game. Along the fairways, more than 40 000 trees have been planted to create a beautiful scenery with excellent views over the Sintra mountain.

82

Surfing Experiences Ride the Portuguese waves

to know, from where to place your board to SURFING OR how to get airborne! We’ll supply you with KITE SURF CLINIC the best board for your height, weight and Kitesurfing (or kiteboarding) is the fastest BODY BOARD riding style and guide you till you’re happily growing water sport in the world. Combin- chasing the breaks yourself. For those ready ing the adrenalin and techniques of surfing, CLINIC to take it a step further, we’ll teach you all windsurfing, wakeboarding, and kite-flying, The Portuguese Coast is renowned for its the tricks required to get you upright with it’s an exhilarating and potentially high- striking cliffs, beautiful beaches and great your very own surf clinic. Learn how to speed venture into freestyle flying. Not for surf, playing host every year to interna- master the take-off on the beach before the faint-hearted, the sport uses a large, tional competitions and boasting Europe’s transferring your skills to the waves, all on powerful kite to propel you on a board first World Surfing Reserve at Ericeira. The soft, safe boards with expert instructors across a large body of water. Think jumps, ‘Dream Coast’ is a haven for surfers and close at hand. Just bring your swimmers tricks and stunts: the height of cool for kite-surfers of all ages and abilities—so and a sense of adventure! thrill-seeking water babies. there’s no excuse not to join in the fun! Mornings tend to bring lighter winds and Duration: Duration: calmer seas, optimum conditions for surf- Ip to 2 hours Up to 2 hours ers. Begin with a spot of body-boarding Location: Location: (the art of catching a wave on a small body- Guincho Beach Lisbon Coast sized piece of polystyrene): a fun introduc- Maximum capacity: Maximum capacity: tion to wave-riding that’ll refresh your Suitable for groups of up to 25 people. Par- Suitable for groups of up to 25 people mind and boost your co-ordination. From ticipants must be competent swimmers Availability: your starting point in the shallow whitewa- Availability: On request with a minimum ter, our experts will teach you all you need On request with a minimum of 24 hrs notice of 24 hrs notice 88 FOUR SEASONS HOTEL RITZ LISBON

Lisbon fitWe make fortravelling child’sa kid play...

90 SURFING FOR KIDS Time to hit the waves! refresh your mind and boost your co-or- SURFING OR dination. From your starting point in the BODY BOARD shallow whitewater, our experts will teach you all you need to know, from where to CLINIC place your board to how to get airborne! We’ll supply you with the best board for Portugals Dream Coast offers near-perfect your height, weight and riding style and conditions for surfers of all abilities - and guide you till you’re happily chasing the with our special clinic, you’ll soon be tak- breaks yourself. ing to the waves like a pro! For those ready to take it a step further, Mornings tend to bring lighter winds we’ll teach you all the tricks required to get and calmer seas, optimum conditions for you upright with your very own surf clinic. junior surfers. Begin with a spot of body- Learn how to master the take-off on the boarding (the art of catching a wave on beach before transferring your skills to the a small body-sized piece of polystyrene): waves, all on soft, safe boards with expert a fun introduction to wave-riding that’ll instructors close at hand. Just bring your swimmers and a sense of adventure! Duration: Up to 2 hours Location: Guincho Beach Beach Maximum capacity: Suitable for groups of up to 25 children. Participants must be competent swimmers Availability: on request with a minimum of 24 hrs notice

94 Safari in Badoca A walk on the wild side!

dreamed of. Spend the first two and a half Location: BEHIND THE hours ‘behind the scenes’: help the wardens Vila Nova de Santo André – 1 hour 45 min- prepare the animals’ breakfast, release the utes by car from the Hotel SCENES AT BA- giraffes and tigers, feed the quarantined Maximum capacity: animals and embark on an unforgettable sa- 4 people. Children under 4 years old are DOCA SAFARI fari tour. The rest of the day is yours to feed required to sit on the lap of an accompany- the lemurs, watch the eagle and falconry ing adult due to safety regulations. PARK display, participate in interactive sessions, Lunch: Step inside the gates of Badoca and you’d visit the playground, get up close and per- Please order your personalized picnic box be forgiven for thinking you’d entered sonal with the exotic warblers in the Bird (payable extra) through the Concierge the the wilds of Africa. Opened in 1999, this Garden and mingle amongst kangaroos and evening before your trip 90-hectare nature reserve sits between the nandus, yaks and buffalo, lama and chim- Availability: plains and the sea and is home to over 250 panzee to name but a few! On request with a minimum of 48 hrs freely roaming animals including giraffes, Wear seasonal clothes and comfy shoes and notice zebras, tigers and wildebeest. be prepared for a truly unforgettable day. A must for animal and nature lovers young Duration: up to 8 hours, commencing NB Schedules may change due to animals and old, this exciting day trip exposes you promptly at 09.00 hrs. Arrivals past 09.15 well-being or Park operations to some of the world’s most exciting crea- hrs may not be able to join the behind the tures in a way you can only previously have scenes experience. 98 Backstage at the Zoo Behind the scenes at the Lisbon Zoo! Lisbon Zoo makes learning fun! This spe- Duration: cial day trip enables young animal lovers Full day. Personal interactive experience runs to get hands on with the zoo’s inhabitants, from 10.15 – 16.30 hrs join backstage tours and work as little help- Zoo open until 18 hrs in winter and ers to gain a fascinating insight into many 20 hrs in summer rare and unusual species. Start your day Location: with a personal tour of some of the Zoo’s Sete Rios. 20 minutes by car from the Hotel most exciting residents. Get up close with Maximum capacity: cute meerkats and cheeky lemurs; help the 10 people exotic bird trainer tend to his colorful par- Lunch: rots and macaws; then head backstage for Please order your personalized picnic box a very special encounter with the cuddly (payable extra) through the Concierge the koalas. After a picnic lunch, settle down for evening before your trip the highly entertaining dolphin and sea lion Availability: acrobatics in Dolphins’ Bay—one of the Available only on Saturdays, on request with a Zoo’s biggest attractions—before a once- minimum of 3 days notice in-a-lifetime encounter with the dolphins themselves. At the end of your exhilarating access-all-areas experience, there’ll still be enough time to take a cable car ride over the hippos, tigers and lions, go back to Jurassic times in Reptile Land, and spend time interacting with the animals in The Little Farm. A large playground and zoo train complete this exciting day out. 102 Treats- on- the- go PORTUGUESE HEALTHY TREAT KIDS TREAT ROMANTIC TREAT Ham, salad, pickles and mayonnaise Quiche Lorraine Mixed salad with fine herbs TREAT Brie and grilled vegetables Shrimp and chicken skewers with curry Caesar salad Lobster salad and aïoli sauce sauce Tomato, mozzarella and basil Serra cheese and ham “Pata Negra” Vegetable cannelloni Fusilli with smoked salmon Shrimp and grilled vegetables COUNTRY BREAD Basmati rice Green salad with goat cheese and walnut SANDWICHES vinaigrette Smoked salmon with cream cheese scented with lemon

104 The Best Of

Our Tried Lisbon and Tested Favorites

106 FASHION Portuguese Designers

Alexandra Moura Designing for both men and women, they nine, and span everything from lamps made (Rua D. Pedro V, 77 125O- O93) also create company uniforms, theatrical out of magazine pages to colorful, knitted Born in Lisbon, Alexandra began her fashion costumes and are stylists for television sets women’s clothes and bags. career with Ana Salazar and José António Espaço Fátima Lopes and musicians. Tenente before launching her own centrally (Rua Rodrigues sampaio, 96) Story Tailors (Calçada do located workshop, designed by architect The huge headquarters of Lisbon’s flashiest José Alves/José Manuel Ferragial, 8 - Chiado) Patrícia Colunas. Her style is urban, mini- fashion designer is divided into several areas: Gonçalves Venezuelan Luís Sanchez has a passion for malist and identifiable for her use of the fin- a shop with ocean-blue post-modern décor, (Rua das Flores 105, 1o Direito) colours, materials and the exotic. Lisboan est fabrics and haute couture finishing details. a private studio and a vibrant bar. Born on Referred to locally as “the Manuels”, Alves João Branco enjoys drawing and taking the island of Madeira, Fátima is glamorously teamed up with Gonçalves in the early 80s to draping technologies, modelling and cut- Dino Alves (Rua Luz Soriano, 67) preened, with long black shiny hair and dar- design a men’s ready-to-wear brand. Strongly ting processes to new levels. Together, they Referred to as the “enfant terrible” of Portu- ing outfits that can only be worn by those inspired by tailoring techniques and cuts, combine their eclectic influences - including guese Fashion, Dino claims not to care for with a perfect figure and no complexes! She they quickly branched into women’s fash- musicals of the 50s, horror movies of the 70s ready-to-wear. Trained as a photographer also designs eveningwear, eyewear and tex- ion and are praised for their skill in using and legends, tales and local superstition like and painter and inspired by the movie world, tile collections amongst others. luxurious materials to create very feminine, Alice in Wonderland versus Bram Stoker’s the “master of cuts” makes made-to-measure sophisticated looks. Their couture workshop Dracula - to create ready-to-wear couture fashion that virtually blends with the body, Filipe Faísca is by appointment only. dresses and outfits. creating a second skin. A style-guru, and (Calçada do Combro 99, Chiado) Portugal’s most provocative designer, he A controversial designer, multi-talented José António Tenente (Picoas stages fashion extravaganzas during Moda creator and stylist, Filipe began his career de- Plaza, Rua Tomás Ribeiro) Lisboa to showcase his collections. His signing theatre costumes before being asked An architect by training, Tenente designs for workshop is by appointment only. to create shop-window displays for Hermès both men and women, with a fashion reper- and Fashion Clinic in Lisbon. Filipe likes to toire that includes experimental theatre cos- play provocative and visual games with style tumes, jewelry, accessories, uniforms, jeans, and his made-to-measure fashion is quite handbags and eyewear collections. Shunning distinctive. He has also designed a line of ac- elitist labels, his style and theories on the way cessories for Nosso Design and Ana Salazar. clothing should function are displayed in store.

João Tomé/Francisco Pontes Lena Aires LA (Rua da Atalia 96, (Rua da bela Vista 21 1 direito, Bairro Alto) Lapa) A fashionista par excellence, Lena’s store is These fashion outsiders focus on readymade located on an old narrow pedestrian street in outfits for leisure and outdoor ventures the heart of the famous Bairro Alto district. from casual to sportswear, urban to grunge. Her designs are confident, sexy and femi-

108 108 FASHION International Brands

Adolfo Dominguez (Avenida da prentice, opened a small outfitters shop in Dolce & Gabanna Ermenegildo Zegna LiberDadE 180 shop 1, Tivoli Fórum) Basingstoke, Hampshire (England). The range (Avenida da Liberdade, 258-b) (Avenida da Liberdade, 177) One of Spain’s top international brands, Ad- includes clothing, accessories, eyewear, time- Since their first fashion show in Milan in 1985, Synonymous with classic suit tailoring, Zegna’s olfo Dominguez has boutiques throughout the pieces and fragrances. Italian designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano ready-to-wear and exclusive ‘su misura’ services world touting the house’s streamlined, some- Gabanna have changed the fashion world with date back to the 70s. A meticulous process, what highbrow fashion philosophy. Men’s and Carolina Herrera their glamour and style. Worshiped by women measurements are taken in Lisbon, the items women’s clothing features alongside accessories, (Avenida da Liberdade, 150) in high heels, hedonistic men obsessed with made in Switzerland and finishing touches sunglasses and perfumes. Legendary fashion designer Carolina Herrera detail and the Hollywood hot-list, Dolce & Ga- completed in Barcelona. is renowned as one of the world’s best dressed- banna is so much more than a fashion house. Barbour (Rua Dom Pedro V, 99 - women. She dressed Jackie Onassis for the last Furla (Avenida da Liberdade 198) Principe Real) 12 years of her life and today styles women, Dunhill (amoreiras shopping cen- Founded in 1927 by the Furlanetto family, the Established in 1894, Barbour is a fifth genera- men, babies, pets and executives in addition to tre − shop 2151) Italian brand has expanded worldwide, charac- tion family owned business based in South a line of luggage and refined accessories. Her British brand, Alfred Dunhill, specializes in terised by its highly crafted Italian-made bags, Shields. British to the core, the family owned shops also stock a selection of city guides and men’s leather goods, accessories, fragrances and shoes and accessories. business has a long history in designing, manu- art books. clothing, with the Portuguese store stocking a facturing and shipping worldwide, and adopt- selection of lighters, leather goods, menswear, GUCCI (AVENIDA DA LIBERDADE, 180) ing the unique values of the British countryside. CARTIER (AVENIDA DA LIBERDADE, jewelry, gifts and games. Famous clients have Opened in January 2012, Lisbon’s Gucci store 240) included the Duke of Windsor, Pablo Picasso features only the brand’s range of accessories BCBG (amoreiras shopping centre, Lisbon’s most luxurious avenue attracts yet and Gary Grant. in a broad and luxurious space, with a fantastic - shop 2088, second floor) again a prestigious international brand, join- natural light opening the way to the contempo- The design philosophy of this store is “Bon Chic ing in late 2013 the countless others that have Emporio Armani rary Gucci look of the 21st century. Bon Genre – a global vision of good style, good already settled there with a two-story building. (Avenida da Liberdade 220 A) attitude. Highest standard of creativity, innova- Known for its outstanding jewelry and watches, Giorgio Armani has continued to conquer the Hermès (Lg. do Chiado 9) tion, and quality in design.” Cartier’s reputation is linked to the absolute world of fashion since his first ready-to-wear- The famous label made a name for itself in 1837 Designed by Max Azria since 1989, the label has quality of its products. men’s show in 1974, and is a current favourite by supplying harnesses and saddlery to Parisian legions of celebrity clients and 475 retail bou- with the Hollywood set. Emporio Armani, the aristocrats, and later, the courts of Europe. From tiques worldwide. Collections include fabulous DKNY (Avenida da Liberdade, Tivo- ‘young line’, offers an accessibly priced range of the famous silk scarves to the Kelly bag and the evening dresses, swimwear, denim, footwear, li Fórum) women’s and men’s ready-to-wear fashion, sun- dog collar belt redesigned as a bracelet, Hermès handbags and small leather goods. The American goddess, and high-flying imagi- glasses, watches, perfumes and accessories. continues to produce cult objects, ready-to- native queen of sportswear, has her Portuguese wear and made-to-measure fashion. Burberry (avenida da liberdade, shop in the city’s main commercial district. 196) Hugo Boss (Av. Liberdade 141) This British institution began in 1856 when Hugo Boss covers all the main fashion areas for Thomas Burberry, a 21-year-old draper’s ap- both sexes. The Boss and Hugo brands fea- ture shoes, accessories, fragrances, glasses and watches, in addition to various ready-to-wear women’s and men’s lines.

110 fashion International Brands

La Perla (Rua Castilho, 73, loja C) signer recently opened his first store in Portu- little sister” is characterized by its avant-garde, the concept of fashion jewelry, adapted to dif- Italian luxury label famous for its audacious gal, with over 200 square meters showcasing his sensual and provocative style, which seeks to ferent phases in one’s life. In Lisbon, the store lingerie with lines such as prêt-a-porter, beach- newest collections – from ready-to- wear and evoke a luxurious sense of freedom and intima- is located in what was for over 100 years the wear, pre-wedding wear, men’s wear and leg accessories to eyewear and bags. cy with attention to detail and high quality. “Ourivesaria Aliança,” a very traditional jew- wear. The new concept, Nero Perla, is for dis- elry store, that remains one of Lisbon’s most cerning types who favour flawless tailoring over Marina Rinaldi (Rua Castilho, 59, Mont Blanc (Avenida da Liber- beautiful shops; a regal Louis XV-style space current trends. CV-b) dade, 111) with paintings from famous Portuguese paintor One of the 35 labels belonging to the Max Mara For over 100 years Montblanc has been known Artur Alves Cardoso. Loewe (Avenida da Liberdade, 185) Group, Marina Rinaldi was named after Achille as a maker of sophisticated, high quality writing Endorsed by the likes of Caroline Kennedy, this Maramotti’s great grandmother. One of the instruments. In the past few years, the product Vilebrequin (Avenida da Liber- Spanish institution has been the purveyor of most successful brands for women sized 16 and range has been expanded to include exquisite dade, 224 A) luxury leather goods and fashion for over 150 above. writing accessories, swiss-made watches, leather Born in Sant-Tropez in the early seventies, a years. goods, jewellery, eyewear and fragrances. young sports journalist named Fred Prysquel MAX MARA (AVENIDA DA LIBERDADE, developed the first pair of Vilebrequin shorts. Longchamp (Avenida da Liber- 231) PRADA (AVENIDA DA LIBERDADE, 216) Vilebrequin has always been synonymous of dade 190) Another opening from late 2013, Max Mara Opened in 2010, Prada’s presence in Av. da originality and fun, and has become a reference In 1971 the brand launched its first handbag moves from its small store in Rua Castilho, to Liberdade consolidates the reputation of the brand for men’s swimming trunks. Coulourful for women, and today is primarily known for a three-storey building on Av. da Liberdade, most fashion forward district of the city, adding patterns, pictures and sparkling colours evok- its leather and canvas handbags, its travel items, where it can display the full range of its prod- more style to the European capital. ing the Côte d’Azur make each boxer a fun yet and numerous fashion accessories. The brand ucts. classic option. is present all over the world in more than 236 Swarovski (Rua Garrett, 28) boutiques and a total of more than 1,800 stores MICHAEL KORS (AVENIDA DA LIBER- Celebrating beauty since 1895, when Daniel Tods (Avenida da Liberdade, 196 A) in some hundred countries, and in Lisbon it is DADE, 108) Swarovski, a Bohemian inventor and vision- The brand’s mantra of comfort and understated located in the prestigious Avenida da Liberdade. New Yorker Michael Kors presents minimal- ary, moved to the village of Wattens, Tyrol in elegance resonates in their Portuguese store, istic clothing and accessories in a luxurious Austria, with his newly-invented revolution- showcasing shoes, clothing, accessories and Louis Vuitton reboot of classics. A favourite among celebrities, ary machine for cutting and polishing crystal wallets for both men and women. (Avenida da Liberdade 190) Michael Kors remains a powerful brand in the jewelry stones. This family-owned company has Louis Vuitton has been synonymous with the American fashion landscape, now in the fash- grown to become the world’s leading producer Zadig & Voltaire (avenida da luxury traveler since the mid-19th century. ionable Avenida da Liberdade in Lisbon. of precision-cut crystal for fashion, jewelry and liberdade, 84-88) The Lisbon store features leather goods, shoes, more recently lighting, architecture and interi- Theirry Gillier, created Zadig and Voltaire in watches and sunglasses. MIU MIU (Avenida da Liberdade, 92) ors. 1997 and opened their first store in the Paris. “Miu Miu” is the playful nickname for Miuccia Today their signature Rock ‘n’ Roll look is well Marc by Marc Jacobs Prada, the leading Italian fashion designer best TOUS (rua garrett, 50) known and the brand’s simple, elegant and styl- (Largo de São Carlos, 1) known for her high-end Prada brand. Debuting Since 1920, TOUS has created a style of jewelry ish pieces can be worn everyday. Iconic em- The world-renowned New York fashion de- in 1993, Miu Miu, often referred to as “Prada’s that is unique throughout the world; based on blems like skulls, butterflies, angels and wings are also in the brand’s DNA and easily identifi- able.

112 FASHION Multi-brands/Concept Stores

A Outra Face da Lua entre tanto Gardénia Stivali (Av. da Liberdade, 38B) (Rua da Assunção, 22 – Baixa) (Rua da Escola Politécnica, 42 - (Rua Garrett 54, Chiado) A multiple brand fashion store with an en- Located in downtown Lisbon, this retro- Príncipe Real) Victor Pereira da Silva founded his Chiado- viable list of designers: Chanel, Gucci, Dries inspired store by Carla Belchior stocks Located in a mansion from the 1700s, this based shop 20 years ago, in what he van Noten, Jimmy Choo, Azzedine Alaïa, vintage, recycled and kitsch clothing, acces- shopping gallery is an “indoor market” considers the perfect Lisbon district. He Balenciaga, Elie Saab, Polo Ralph Lauren sories, tiny toys, wallpaper and shoes. The consisting of 23 shops dedicated to fashion, sells original young fashion with clothes and Black, Sergio Rossi and Yves Saint Laurent. onsite café serves an interesting selection of leisure, design and food. Its goal is to sup- shoes from likes of Fly London, Guess Jeans, Stivali is also home to Portugal’s first official teas, alongside salads and sandwiches. port traditional shopping, small retailers Diesel, DKNY, Custo Barcelona, Chanel space, with 50 square meters of the and brands. Camper and Melissa. store being dedicated 100% to Chanel prod- A Vida Portuguesa ucts, which is decorated exactly like all the (Rua Anchieta, 11 – Chiado) embaixada Sneakers Delight (Rua do other Chanel boutiques across the world - Journalist and media-mogul, Catarina Por- (Praça do Príncipe Real 26) Norte 30/32, Bairro Alto) the design was, in fact, done by the team of tas, identified a gap in the market for a shop Embaixada is the newest concept store in More art gallery than shoe store, Sneaker Peter Marino, responsible for the design of dedicated to the sale of nostalgic Portuguese the Príncipe Real neighbourhood. Housed Delight stocks exclusive and limited edition other boutiques like Zegna, Dior, Fendi arts, crafts and brands. Occupying an old inside one of the oldest palaces in town, a sneakers, such as Onitsuka Tiger, with a DJ and Louis Vuitton. All the furniture of this perfume warehouse (David & David) in the makeover has been given to the interior to spinning at the weekend. store-in-store was made by Portuguese trendy Chiado district, this gem of a store make it suitable for stores, while still main- artisans. has ensured the survival of many a Portu- taining its old-world charm. guese tradition. Over 1,000 originally packaged products including candy, tea, cof- Fashion Clinic fee, sardine tins, biscuits, soaps, pencils, (Avenida da Liberdade 249) mugs, jewelry, toothpaste, ceramics from Owned by Paula Amorim, shoppers can be the Bordalo Pinheiro Factory and confident in her style choices: Etro, Dolce traditional woollen blankets from Alentejo. & Gabbana, Hussein Chalayan, Jil Sander, with a dose of Marni, Missoni, Miu Miu, Prada and Rick Owens.

114 FASHION Accessories

Chapelaria Azevedo (Praça D. Fabrica sos Chapeus Hospital das Bonecas Retrosaria Bijou Pedro V, 72-73 – Baixa) (Rua da Rosa, 130) (Praça da Figueira, 7) (Rua da Conceição, 91) In December 1886, Manuel Azevedo Rua, a For the younger generation with a passion With a passion for dolls, miniature furni- For the enthusiastic seamstress, Retrosaria former wine producer from the north of for hats, this workshop-boutique in the ture and tiny clothes, Manuela Cutileiro Bijou has been around since 1915 selling all Portugal, decided to open this traditional heart of Bairro Alto offers more than 300 continues her grandparents’ workshop and manner of accessories – buttons, needles, made-to-order hat shop. Thanks to a loan designs plus a made-to-measure service. store in the magical, imaginary world of the thread, etc. – from and for the world of and some advice from his uncle, a priest – Doll’s Hospital. couture. ‘always practice a fixed price’ – the store is still going strong, selling handmade hats for Luvaria Ulisses (Rua do Carmo, 87) all occasions. Top, high, bowler or tradi- Get in line – this tiny, four-meter square tional, even hats for priests, any style goes. shop is the last remaining of its kind, dedicated to the exclusive sale of exquisite leather gloves. In an array of colors and materials, they are surprisingly well priced.

MUU (bags) baixa (Rua da Emenda, 48) A 100% Portuguese brand selling large handbags, fashion accessories and decora- tive items such as pillows, poufs and head- boards, all made out of cow’s leather.

116 FASHION Jewelry antique (Four Seasons Hotel Galeria Tereza Seabra (Rua da rosior (Four Seasons Hotel Ritz saldanha & pimenta (Four Sea- Ritz Lisbon) Rosa, 158-160 A) Lisbon) sons Hotel Ritz Lisbon) Located inside Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Tereza Seabra is co-founder of Artefacto 3 (a In 1978, after working at the family company, One of the stores inside Four Seasons Hotel Lisbon, Luiz Ferreira Antiques are one of long serving Bairro-Alto gallery workshop). Rosas de Portugal, Ritz Lisbon, Saldanha & the most renowned jewelries in the country. This gallery showcases her own jewelry Manuel Rosas decided to create his own Pimenta’s designer jewelry hipnotizes anyone Established in the early XX Century by Luiz brand, in addition to promoting and exhibit- company, ROSIOR. For several years, he who passes by the hotel’s lobby. The owner Ferreira, the brand has maintained its tradi- ing young artists and international designers. obtained important experience working for says she looks to, within the best quality tion in expert craftsmanship since. The silver brands such as Cartier, Tifanny & Co., Saks available, offer the best variety of jewelry that animals and picture frames are still offered Leitão & Irmão (Largo do Chia- Fifth Ave., Sterling or Fortunoff. is not only beautiful but perfectly executed as wedding gifts in traditional Portuguese do, 16-17 & Four Seasons Hotel ROSIOR Jewels are completely manufac- for she is a perfectionist herself. Saldanha & families. Ritz Lisbon) tured in Portugal using 19,2k Gold or 950 Pimenta is also renowned for engagement Long renowned for its jewelry and silver- Platinum, E-F colour Diamond, and the best rings. Boutique dos relógios (Four smith work, Leitão & Irmão moved from colour stones. Beautiful window displays Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon) Oporto to Lisbon when it was awarded the with coloured emeralds and saphires are also Silva Joalheiros (Praça Luís de Boutique dos Relógios was established in title ‘Crown Jewelers’ in 1875. Today’s a hallmark of this brand. Camões, 40-41 − Bairro Alto) 1997 as the result of the creation of a struc- designs are still produced in the House’s Francisco Silva was only 17 years old when tured concept in all aspects, designed to fully workshops. he began to learn his craft from his respond to the high requirement levels and grandfather, a specialist in 18th and 19th cen- strict values of the most prestigious watch- Machado Joalheiro (Avenida da tury jewelry and silver. His reproductions making manufacturers. With a wide variety Liberdade, 180 − Tivoli Fórum) of antique pieces are true works of art. of timepieces signed by the most Machado Joalheiro is home to high-end jew- prestigious watch manufacturers, such as elry from Chaumet, Dior, Dinh Van, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, Cartier, IWC or Gucci, Howard Stern and Piaget; watches by Baume & Mercier. and an extensive supply Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger − of watch winders and cases, at each Boutique LeCoultre, Audemars, Piguet, Ebel and Bre- dos Relógios, you will find a wide range of itling; and specialist pieces from major services and personalized costumer attention. Portuguese, Italian and Spanish silversmiths.

Galeria Reverso (Rua da Esper- anca 59-61, Santos) Ana Isabel is always on the hunt for artists from different disciplines to interpret jewels creating and producing original pieces in her workshop-come-art gallery, located in the Lapa district.

118 Homeware & Interior Design

shapes and sizes, then wait patiently at the Domo Loja da Atalaia (Avenida Infan- counter while the saleswoman fulfils your (Largo de Santos, 1 G − Santos) te D. Henrique, Armazém B, loja 1 Ana Salgueiro request. Domo occupies Santos’s old metalworks. & Cais da Pedra, Santa Apolónia) (Rua do Alecrim 85-87, Chiado) Opened 20 years ago by Gabriela Pereira A public figure in Lisbon’s design renaissance, Seduced by the family’s passion for an- Casa dos Tapetes de Arraiolos Monteiro, it was one of the city’s first interior Manuel Reis’ gallery (that combines a tiques, Ana Salgueiro loves to combine old (Rua Escola Politécnica, 117) stores dedicated to contemporary design. showroom in Bairro Alto) showcases a objects and furniture with contemporary Renowned worldwide for its rugs and tapes- Beneath its vaulted ceilings, the lofty space much-hyped and surprising selection of ob- designer lighting. Her current inspiration tries in traditional Portuguese stitch, showcases furniture, accessories and jects and lamps from the 60s and 70s. unites Louis XVI influences with those of Arraiolos employs embroidering processes lighting by Kartell, Minotti, MDF Italia, the minimal-modernist Portuguese archi- that date back to the 16th century. Using Fiam, Foscarini, Artemide, Flos and Wood tect, Álvaro Siza Vieira. 100% wool on jute or linen, replicas or exclu- Notes amongst others, as well as Portuguese sive designs in any size, shape or color can be tables by Luísa Peixoto. Armazem de arquitectura (Rua made within 120 days. das Flores, 109 − Bairro Alto) Empório Casa Bazar (Rua D. Pe- This group of architects converted the Cutipol dro V, 65 − Príncipe Real) former Portuguese Pombaline stables into a (Rua do Alecrim, 113-115 − Chiado) Inspired by the original Empório Casa, this design gallery store where they host tem- José Joaquim Ribeiro’s cutlery designs pay bazaar-style shop stocks eclectic urban porary exhibitions and consult as interior homage to traditional craftsmanship. homeware that spans the areas of jewels, designers. Practical yet refined, with perfect finishing kitchenware, candles, dresses, travel, and strict quality control, the ranges are architecture, fashion and design books, Azulejos Santa Ana available in sterling silver, chromo-nickel 18 beauty products, lamps and children’s toys. (Rua do Alecrim, 95 – Chiado) /10, silver-plated and gilded. Bridal This factory has been producing entirely services and gift lists are also available. Fábrica Cerãmica Viúva Lamego handmade azulejos since 1741. Join a tile (largo do Intendente 25, Inten- painting claass to fully appreciate the pro- Depósito da Marinha Grande dente) cess from clay preparation to glazing and (Rua de São Bento, 420) Founded in 1849, Fábrica sells traditional painting, in addition to the traditional 17th A glassware store that sells a range of vases Portuguese ceramics and azulejos. Hand- and 18th century patterns. and bowls in both contemporary and painted with traditional 17th and 18th cen- traditional designs as well as striking classic- tury designs, the tiles can be used indoors or Casas das velas Loreto with-an-edge pieces. The Gothic-style, over- outdoors, as decorative panels or façades. (Rua do Loreto, 53 − Chiado) the-top goblets and decanters in a dark ink This ancient temple of candles, with its dark crystal would be equally at home on the table wood furniture and church-like windows, of a tycoon or a rock star. has remained unchanged since 1789. Select from a dizzying array of candles in all colors,

120 Homeware & Interior Design

Paris em Lisboa (Rua Garrett, 77) República das Flores Steinwall Zeppelin Vintage (Rua da Rosa, 40) Next to the famous café A Brasileira in the (Rua da misericórdia, 31 − Chia- (Lgo. Vitorino Damásio, 2C) Tucked away on trendy da Rosa Street in Chiado District, this shop dates back to do) Steinwall sells and distributes interior de- the quirky Bairro Alto district, this great 1888. A good selection of hand-embroidered A new concept store, founded by Frederico sign products and finishings; the store is find sells vintage furniture in a range of night dresses, fabrics by the meter, Oliveira, that sells exotic fresh flowers renowned for launching merchandise new styles from the 30s to 80s, with a focus tablecloths, sheets and colored cotton towels. alongside scented candles, lingerie, design to the domestic market. on the 50s. Mostly from the Netherlands, pieces and a good selection of wines. Scandinavia and USA, the tables, chairs Paris Sete (Largo Vitorino Teresa Alecrim (Rua Nova do and lamps can also be rented for the sets of Damásio 2 A/B 1200-872, Santos Almada 76 – Chiado) commercials, movies and TV shows. Their (Lisboa)) A shop dedicated to traditional home linens personal customer service is great for those Interior designer Gustavo Brito opened his with a selection of night shirts, wool seeking specialist pieces. most recent space in 2004. This museum- blankets, edged tablecloths, simple lace and like store showcases vast collections of the terry cloth items. best modern and contemporary home and office furnishings, including George Nel- Vista Alegre son’s iconic Home Desk produced by Vitra. (Largo do Chiado, 18-23) Vista Alegre has set the benchmark for Por- Princípe Real Enxovais (Rua da tuguese tableware since the beginning of Escola Politécnica, 12/14) the 19th century, and is the official purvey- This local institution – with many a presti- or to several European courts and heads of gious customer – is renowned for the state. The porcelain is considered an heir- exceptional quality of its custom-made loom in many Portuguese families. Patterns trousseaus that include extravagant, include historical reproductions of azulejo traditionally hand-embroidered household designs, East India Company-style floral linens. motifs and work by contemporary Portu- guese artists and designers.

122 ANTIQUES

Ar Pab (Rua D. Pedro V, 69 − Prín- Frederico Horta e Costa (Rua Jorge Welsh (Rua da Misericór- marcos & Marcos (Rua D. Pedro cipe Real) dos Amoreiras, 103 – Rato) dia, 41 – Chiado) V, 59) The quintessential store for unique objects, Frederico inherited his passion for antiques The best gallery in town to find works of art Located at the edge of Bairro Alto on the way opened by art-antiques lovers Álvaro as a child from his grandparents. Sotheby’s related to oriental porcelain. Owners to the Príncipe Real gardens, this shop Roquette and Pedro Aguiar Branco. Pieces Portuguese representative for 20 years, the Jorge Welsh and Luísa Vinhais have galleries has a vast collection of unusual 18th and 19th include 16th-18th century Chinese renowned antique dealer and collector has a in London and Lisbon and are century paintings, sculptures and porcelain containers, a pair of 17th century penchant for 19th century Portuguese natu- internationally recognised specialists in ori- furniture, many portraying strong Portu- German agate candlesticks, a 17th century ralist painters including landscaper Silva ental porcelain and art relating to the guese religious influences. Be aware of the German agate casket with silver mounts and Porto, and Columbano, the master of por- Portuguese colonisation of Africa, Asia, In- government permission required to take a 17th century silver-gilded, mounted traits. dia, China and Japan. All pieces come with certain pieces out of the country. Emu egg shell from Italy...and that’s just for an illustrated certificate of description. starters! Isabel Lopes da Silva (Rua da Es- cola Politécnica, 67 − Príncipe Casa d’Arte (Largo de São Mar- Real) tinho, 8 – Sé) Isabel has a special flair for the high-style Owner Teresa Torres specialises in Art Nou- ceramics, glassware, silver and gold veau and Indo-Portuguese antiques, artworks and jewelry of the 1920s to 70s. Portuguese furniture, silverware, porcelain and Asian art inspired by her travels.

124 Music & Books

A Nova Ecletica Fnac (Armazéns do Chiado, Rua Livraria Ler Devagar (Calçada do Combro, 50) do Carmo, 2 − Baixa-Chiado) (Rua Rodrigues Faria, An afternoon of browsing bliss for book lov- A leading retailer of culture and leisure prod- 103 − Edifício Go.3 – Alcântara) ers! Bibliophile Alfredo Maria Gonçalves ucts including books, photography, videos Translated as ‘reading slowly’, Ler Devagar has been buying small antique lots and the and Hi-Fi items and all the latest technolo- occupies the deactivated industrial grounds contents of private libraries since 1992, ever gies. in Alcântara and comprises an alternative in search of that specialist edition or author... bookshop, concept store, art gallery and O Mundo do Livro internet café. Companhia Nacional de Música (Largo da Trindade, 11-13 – Chia- (Rua Nova do Almada, 60-62 – Chi- do) ado) Spread across three levels, this 50-year-old Considered the oldest record store in the city, store offers an expedition-like experience browse the choice of traditional and popular into the discovery of antique and contempo- Portuguese music, fado and opera albums, rary reproductions of old prints, engravings, sheet music, ballet and rare concert DVDs. maps, books, frames and post cards. A real treasure trove.

126 Art Galleries

Cristina Guerra (Rua Santo An- Galeria Graca Brandão (Rua Galeria Tapeçarias de Por- Vera Cortês—Agencia de Arte tónio à Estrela, 33) dos Caetanos, 26 – Chiado) talegre (Rua da Academia das (Avenida 24 de Julho, 54, 1º Esqº − Avant-garde Cristina Guerra owns one of the In previous incarnations, the gallery was the Ciências, 2 J – Rato) Santos) most radical galleries in Lisbon. She Almeida Araújo family palace and head Located in the old stables where the famous Founded on the motto ‘create exceptions, frequently flies abroad to attend Arco office for the daily newspaper, Diário Popu- Marquis de Pombal was born, Manuel respect convictions’, this contemporary art (Spain), Art Basel (Switzerland), Art Miami lar. Today, José Mário Brandão’s gallery – Amado’s gallery showcases Portalegre tapes- gallery and agency is located in a lofty 19th (USA), Fiac (Paris) as well as Arte Lisboa. with rotary printing press still in situ – show- tries. Over 200 Portuguese and century apartment building with riverfront She represents artists such as John cases Portuguese and Brazilian international artists have had their work views. Immerse in the expressive pieces of Baldessari, Sabine Hornig, João Paulo Feli- contemporary artists including Lygia Pape, translated into 100% wool Portalegre mural Adriana Molder, Susanne S. D. Themlitz, ciano, João Louro, Matt Mullican, Julião Rui Chafes, Nelson Leirner, Efraim tapestries. The limited edition pieces are all Ricardo Jacinto and Sophie Whettnall Sarmento, Lawrence Weiner, Erwin Wurm Almeida, Nuno Ramalho and Anna Maria numbered and hand-signed by the artist. amongst a host of others, waiting to be and Yonamine. Maiolino. discovered... Pente 10 (Travessa da Fábrica Galeria 111 (Avenida Campo Galeria Ratton Cerâmicas (Rua dos Pentes, 10 – Amoreiras) ZDB Galeria Zé dos Bois (Rua da Grande, 113 – Entrecampos) Academia das Ciências, 2 C – Dedicated to contemporary photography – Barroca, 59 – Chiado) Galeria 111 is the oldest Portuguese art gal- Rato) Portuguese and international – the gallery This is an art gallery and performance venue lery, with spaces in both Lisbon and Owner, Ana Maria Viegas, commissioned has an average of six exhibitions a year, dis- with a difference, run by a collective of Oporto, showcasing Portuguese contempo- architects João de Almeida and Pedro playing works from the likes of Inês contemporary artists intent on expressing rary art. The current directors, Maria Arlete Moureira to redesign her space in the former Medeiros, Rita Barros, Georges Pacheco, their art freely. The ever-evolving Alves da Silva and Rui Brito, are constantly stables of the Marquis de Pombal into a Hondartza Fraga, Nathalie van Doxell, programme includes art, video and music on the look out for both Portuguese and minimalist gallery. Exhibiting original azule- Miguel Santos and Sharon Kivland. performances, and shows. Great for spotting international artists to exhibit. jos, Ana Maria has also invited renowned new talent, with an excellent bookshop too. Portuguese and international artists to design new tiles for use in metro stations, public spaces, lakes and churches. Artists include Graça Morais, Paula Rego, Júlio Pomar, Bartolomeu dos Santos, José Barrias and Lluís Hortalà.

128 Food & Wine

Aromas & Sabores Wine Bar Confeitaria Nacional (Praça Claudio Corallo cacao 6 caffé Garrafeira Campo de Ourique (Rua Tomás da Anunciação, 44 – da Figueira, 18 – Baixa) (Rua da Escola Politécnica 4 − (Rua Tomás da Anunciação, 29 A Campo de Ourique) Pioneers of traditional Portuguese cakes Príncipe Real) − Campo de Ourique) Arlindo Santos, owner of Garrafeira Campo and pastries for five generations, the Cas- An ode to the cocoa beans of the tiny equa- Fondly referred to as the ‘wine museum’, de Ourique, also runs this gourmet delica- tanheiro family’s coveted recipes date back torial island nation of São Tomé e Príncipe, this cozy space features wooden shelves tessen and wine bar. 175 years. Their delightful downtown tea- Claudio Corallo’s Lisboan shop is a choco- crammed with carefully selected wines and Pop in for authentic regional breads, cured shop serves tea, coffee and hot chocolate holics dream. An Italian agronomist, he the feel of an old English apothecary (more hams and Serra da Estrela goat cheese. The alongside sweet accompaniments including cultivates rare coffee plants and produces than a Portuguese wine cellar, anyway!) small round queijo sheep’s cheese from Cas- Bolo Rei (king’s cake) – a traditional Christ- chocolate so pure that additives aren’t Choose from wines including Pêra Manca telo Branco is just one of many surprises mas speciality first introduced to Portugal necessary. The choice includes 100% choco- 2005 (Alentejo), Redoma 2008 (Douro re- that awaits. by the founder’s son in the late 19th cen- late containing liqueur extracted from the gion) and Utopia 2004 (Beiras) along a host tury – and a mouth-watering assortment of cocoa plant’s pulp, 73% cocoa with cocoa of others, eagerly awaiting discovery. Be Casa Pereira (Rua Garrett, 38 – cookies and confectionary. bits, fine chocolates with natural ginger or sure to taste the famous Portuguese vinho Chiado) orange peel, and tiny chocolate-coated cof- verde (green / young wine). Think 1930s Lisbon and an Art Nouveau Conserveira Nacional (Rua dos fee beans. jewelry-box-style shop with original marble Bacalhoeiros, 34 – Baixa) Manteigaria Silva (Rua D. An- floors, stone and wood counters, old shop The Lisbon Cannery is an ode to the city’s Deli Delux (Avenida Infante D. tão de Almada, 1 – Baixa) windows and personalised service. An ar- traditions and is located near the Terreiro Henrique, Armazém B, Loja 8 − The Portuguese claim to have a different ray of merchandise – including tea, coffee, do Paço Square in a street named after the Santa Apolónia) recipe for bacalhau (cod) for each day of biscuits and wine – fills the shop’s shelves, city’s cod fish sellers. Originally opened in Located in an industrial building, designed the year. Buy all the ingredients in this drawers and counters: seek advice for the 1930, it has been selling quality conserved by architect João Regal and interior de- 100-year-old store (go for the Icelandic best buys. fish and preserves to a faithful crowd for signer Filipe Alarcão, Deli Delux is Lisbon’s cod, salted for four months) alongside fine generations. Classic buys include canned first delicatessen, grocery store and café. An Portuguese products, including wines and mackerel, tuna, squid and cod and the Tri- epicurean’s delight – take home the award- liqueurs. cana and Prata do Mar conserves. winning olive oil, foie gras, chocolates, exotic fruits, smoked salmon, stuffed sau- sages, cured hams and delicious Portuguese cheeses such as serra or azeitão, or dine in and enjoy the rivers views.

130 Food & Wine

Manuel Tavares A garrafeira SALA OGIVAL (PRAÇA DO COMÉR- Wine O’Clock (Rua Joshua Beno- (Rua da Betesga, 1 A & B – Baixa) CIO) liel, 2 B − Santa Isabel) Founded in 1860, this traditional wine Sala Ogival is a place devoted to promoting Wine O’Clock is the brainchild of wine lov- store stocks Portugal’s best regional wines, and tasting Portuguese wines, furnished by ers António Nora (established in the wine liqueurs, brandies and spirits from the likes producers through their respective regional business), Francisco Freitas (wine collec- of Oporto, Madeira, Moscatel Dão and winegrowing commissions. tor) and Pedro Emanuel (famous football Douro. Other specialities include locally player). With three contemporary stores produced sausages, hams and cheeses, – in Oporto, Aveiro and Lisbon – Wine canned fish, olive oil, vinegars, fine choco- O’Clock offers wine tastings, dinner events lates, hazelnuts, dried plums and figs. and wines from as many as 2,500 varieties alongside a selection of gourmet products, cigars and wine accessories.

132 Museums

Centro Cultural de Belém (Pra- Colecção Berardo (Centro Ellipse Foundation (Rua das Fis- Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian ça do Império – Belém) Cultural de Belém − Praça do gas, Pedra Furada – Alcoitão) (Avenida de Berna, 45 A − São Se- West of Lisbon along the Tagus River, next to Império) Ambitious art-lover and Portuguese banker, bastião) the Torre de Belém and the Mosterios Inspired by his beloved friend, South-African João Oliveira-Rendeiro, opened the Founded in 1956 by Armenian oil magnate Jerónimos Monastery, this multi-purpose lawyer Óscar Gatez, Joe Berardo never Ellipse Foundation in 2007. Located 25 kilo- and art collector, Calouste Gulbenkian, the centre designed by architects Vittorio forgot their common motto: ‘every investor meters outside Lisbon, the 3,500 square modern complex houses a library, an audito- Gregotti and Manuel Salgado hosts concerts, has the obligation to do good in his metre warehouse – redesigned by architect rium, a space for temporary exhibits and performances, theater productions, community’. Berardo became a millionaire Pedro Gadanho and fashioned in black two museums. Fine art collections from the international conferences and prestigious by recycling gold-mine debris in abandoned metal – features ten exhibition rooms and 15th to 20th century include works by Turn- exhibitions. Since its inauguration in 1993, a South African mines. In 1988 he created the areas for the display of over 300 art pieces er, Degas, Rodin, Corot, Monet, Picabia and series of illustrious performers have graced Berardo Foundation, a private charity that from around the world (70s to present day), Lléger. the stage. There is also a bookshop, a works in the fields of education, health and the hosting artist residency programmes boutique selling designer objects, a restaurant culture. In 2007, the Belém Cultural Centre and other special projects. Fundação Medeiros e Almeida called A Comenda, a coffee shop and began exhibiting his private art collection (Rua Rosa Araújo, 41 − Marquês three bars. The Museu-Colecção Berardo on a ten-year loan, showcasing 800 original Fundação Arpad Szenes – Vieira de Pombal) launched in 2007, named after the pieces of art from the likes of Picasso, Miró, da Silva (Praça das Amoreiras, The first to import cars and airplanes into Portuguese entrepreneur Joe Berardo; his Dalì, Francis Bacon, Warhol, Tàpies, Vieira 58 – Amoreiras) Portugal, entrepreneur António Medeiros e extensive modern and contemporary art da Silva, Paula Rego and Gilbert & George. The Amoreiras Gardens are symbolic of Lis- Almeida’s passion for art led him to create collection is on permanent display. Entrance is free. bon’s slower pace of life. Inside this this foundation. Renowned for the line ‘I’d former 18th century silk factory, the works rather beg, than sell or live without my art Centro de Arte Moderna (Rua Culturgest (Rua Arco do Cego − of Hungarian born painter Arpad Szenes and collection’, his pieces include European Dr. Nicolau de Bettencourt − Campo Pequeno) his Portuguese wife, the great artist Maria paintings, English and Portuguese silver, Chi- São Sebastião) Housed in the former headquarters of the Helena Vieira da Silva, are on show. In addi- nese porcelain, furniture, rugs, sculpture, Part of the Gulbenkian Foundation Trust, the state bank − Caixa Geral dos Depósitos − tion to their permanent displays, works by glass, jewelry (dating back to the 17th cen- museum houses contemporary Portuguese this cultural complex houses an art gallery the couple’s friends and contemporaries are tury), clocks and watches. artists including Vieira da Silva, Amadeo and several auditoriums, regularly hosting showcased in temporary exhibits. A small Sousa Cardoso, Júlio Pomar and Nicolau Bet- music, ballet, theater, jazz and movie events café and boutique are located downstairs. tencourt. There is a spacious café for trendy related to the 20th and 21st century Arts. Sunday lunches and a boutique bookshop reflecting all the works contained in the museum.

134 MUSEUMS

Fundação Oriente (Avenida MUDE − Museum of Fashion and translatable ‘empty longing’) alongside the Museu Nacional do Azulejo (Rua Brasília − Doca de Alcântara, Design (Rua Augusta, 24 – Baixa) epic adventures of the past. This museum da Madre de Deus, 4) Norte) Formerly housed in the Belém Cultural charts the history and story of fado—which Azulejos are an integral part of Portuguese As the first Europeans to travel to the farthest Centre, MUDE reopened in May 2009, in reached iits peak in the 1930s—through the daily life. The traditional glazed tiles are corners of Asia, this foundation and the old BNU bank’s head office. The mu- districts of Alfama, Mouraria, Bairro Alto celebrated here through collections ranging museum is devoted to Portugal’s eastward seum is home to the collection of art and and Madragoa. Visit the shop to buy the from Hispano-Arabic trends and the 18th explorations and colonisation. The museum fashion mogul, Francisco Capelo, showcas- CDs of Queen of fado Amália Rodrigues, century Delft school to modern applica- showcases both fine art and everyday pieces ing many an iconic designer and famous the iconic Carlos do Carmo, and a host by tions. Part of the Gulbenkian Foundation, including a wall of snuff bottles, Japanese fashion piece. The collection includes 1,000 the younger generation of stars including the museum is housed in the former Madre armor, Timorese ritual masks, rare Chinese design object and 1,200 couture pieces, with Mariza, Mísia and Dulce Pontes. de Deus convent. It also features a Baroque screens and a 19th century opium pipe works by over 200 designers depicting church that pays tribute to this ornamental from the Qing Dynasty. There is also a shop, trends from around the world. Museu de São roque (Largo art form, works by azulejo artists – café and top-floor restaurant with river Trindade Coelho – Chiado) including Almada Negreiros, Carlos Botel- views. Museu do Chiado (Rua Serpa This museum, in the former house of the ho and Maria Keil – a library, café and shop Pinto, 4 – Chiado) Jesuits (Companhia de Jesus), is dedicated selling contemporary and replica tiles. Fundação Ricardo Espírito Renovated by French architect, Jean-Michel to the rich Baroque period, with over Santo Silva (Largo das Portas Wilmotte, this former São Francisco da 300 pieces including relics and paintings, Museu Rafaelo Bordalo Pinhei- do Sol, 2 – Castelo) Cidade monastery now houses a collection sculpture, jewelry, oriental art and liturgical ro (Campo Grande, 382) Banker and art collector Ricardo do Espírito of more than 5,000 pieces across the genres objects, plus the artistic masterpiece: The This 1912 villa is home to a museum dedi- Santo bought the Palácio Azurara, of painting, sculpture, design, photography Chapel of St. John the Baptist. There is also cated to artist, Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro restored it as an 18th century aristocratic and new media. The museum carries the a souvenir shop and courtyard café. (1846-1905). He began his career draw- home and decorated it with items from his most important national collection of art ing caricatures before moving onto the private collection. In 1953, he created a Foun- from the 19th century to the present and Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga portrayal of figures and faces in witty and dation at the Portuguese School of hosts temporary exhibits to showcase (Rua das Janelas Verdes – Lapa) unusual ceramic forms, including vases, Decorative Arts and the Arts and Crafts In- Portuguese artists. The outdoor café is a Founded in 1884, this museum displays cups and teapots (where a cigar might serve stitute. Rare goldsmith works, furniture and great spot for a bica and wide-reaching city Portuguese art from the 12th to 19th as a spout!) Unusual and highly decorative, carpets are on display and the shop sells re- views. century including paintings, sculptures, his style also extends to Art Nouveau bowls productions created in the workshops. drawings, silverware and jewelry, ceramics, and tiles decorated with animal and plant Guided tours of the art studios – drawing, Museu do Fado (Largo do Cha- furniture and fabrics. Buy splendid repro- reliefs. gilding, carpet weaving and inlaid work – fariz de Dentro, 1 − Jardim do ductions of earthware, glassware, azulejos are by appointment only. Tabaco) and jewelry in the museum shop, before Fado is a nostalgic and mournful musical enjoying a spot of lunch in the garden genre that charts Portuguese tales of lost restaurant and bar overlooking the Tagus and impossible love, and saudade (an un- River.

136 Bars & Cafés

A Brasileira (Rua Garrett, 120 – Café Nicola (Praça D. Pedro V, 24 Pois Café (Rua S. João da Praça, Chiado) – Rossio) 93-95 – Sé) A melting pot for artists and intellectuals A little piece of 19th century bourgeois café Austrians Barbara and Catherine have trans- since 1905 – Fernando Pessoa, Mário de Sá life, the revamped and restored Café Nicola formed this 18th century tea, spice and Carneiro and Almada Negreiros used to eat has retained its Art Deco façade, interior grocery warehouse into a super Austrian- here daily. Although not the best café in paintings and furniture. Bica and cappuc- style café, complete with vaulted stonewalls town, A Brasileira is a real tourist attraction; cinos, locals and tourists all mix effortlessly and recycled furniture. Head there for the Art Nouveau décor remains beautifully along the esplanade. brunch or a light bite with a book, or indulge intact and a much-photographed bronze of in some relaxing people-watching. Pessoa sits outside. Chapitô (Rua Costa do Castelo, 7 – Alfama) Royale Café (Largo Rafael Borda- A Ginginha (Largo de S. Domin- Whimsically bohemian with a real twinkle in lo Pinheiro, 29 R/C Esq. – Chiado) gos, 8 − Rossio) its eye, Chapitô is a music bar and café Portugal meets Scandinavia in this modern A good example of the old tascas (tavern), with African circus-inspired décor. The ter- space, created by Ana Faro and Diogo this popular spot with locals has a traditional race has fantastic views over the city and Coelho following a trip to Denmark. The marble bar (no seating here) and serves Ginja Tagus River—the perfect place to daydream interiors feature printed wallpaper, a crystal Espinheira Pequena. Referred to as ginjinha over a caipirinha. chandelier, Nordic chairs, a Louis Poulsen (pronounced djinedjinegnia), this shot of lamp, calico cushions, Portuguese faïence, cherry liqueur comprises 23% alcohol and is Kaffehaus (Rua Anchieta, 3 – Chi- wall and ceiling ornaments and an orange a real battery recharger. ado) tree in the courtyard. Delicious organic food Viennese style cafés are popular in Lisbon includes salads and pastas alongside mouth- Antiga Confeitaria Nacional and Kaffehaus has a literary café feel, with watering bread, scones and ‘royale - Belém Fábrica dos Pastéis de guests surfing the web and reading. A trendy chocolate’ muffins, all freshly baked on-site. Belém (Rua de Belém, 84 – spot since opening, it serves breakfast, Belém) lunch and dinner with a daily-changing Established in 1837, this revered pastry shop menu. Worth a visit for the Apfelstrüdel and café has a labyrinth of rooms decorated (Viennese apple pie) alone! in white and blue tiles. It serves an average of 10,000 pastéis de Belém a day and is the city’s original and best. Centuries old, the unique recipe is well-guarded secret.... A must-visit when visiting Belém.

138 Restaurants Traditional

A Charcutaria (Rua do Alecrim, A Travessa (Travessa do Con- Lisboa À Noite (Rua das Gáveas, 47 – Chiado) vento das Bernardas, 12 – San- 69-71 − Bairro Alto) Manuel Martins offers mouth-watering spe- tos) Located in a beautifully restored wine cellar cialties from southern Alentejo, regarded as Located next to a puppet museum, in a mag- in ever-hip Bairro Alto, this typical the Portuguese Tuscany. Simple wooden ta- nificently restored 17th century convent, Portuguese seafood and fish restaurant is bles, white tablecloths and minimalist décor this Lisboan institution has taken up resi- famous for its cod specials. Open late, with set the scene for delicious migas, a toasted dence in various districts throughout the city excellent wines and a devilishly delicious des- breadcrumb dish with tomatoes, ham and since 1978. The charming Belgian owner, sert trolley. eggs, garlic and cheese soup and half-moon Viviane, personally recommends the John meat-filled pastries on peppers pureed in Dory dish as the house special. Joined by Santo António de Alfama (Beco vinegar. Be sure to sample the famous Alen- António Moita, with his knowledge of the de S. Miguel 7 – Alfama) tejan wines and sublime cheese dessert, best sea and farm produce, their Portuguese- Owned by an actor and a musician, the walls queijo do céu (cheese from heaven). Belgian oriented cuisine has enjoyed are dotted with black and white portraits growing success over the years. of stars and the place has the feel of a Portu- As Salgadeiras (Rua das Salga- guese-style trattoria. Located in the cozy S. deiras, 18 – Chiado) Cervejaria Trindade (Rua Nova Miguel Square, in the middle of the Alfama This traditional Portuguese restaurant is da Trindade, 20C – Chiado) district, the menu includes blood sausage located in an ancient red-brick bakery, Portugal’s oldest brewery first opened its with apple purée, salad with goose livers, can- complete with original ovens, walls and doors in 1836. Located in the former canteen nelloni and bifes (steaks) grilled with arches. Fancy some fish? Try the stuffed of the Trinos monastery – a building that aromatic herbs. Tarts, ice-cream and fine squid, grilled grouper with sautéed prawns or dates back to 1283 – it’s resplendent with Portuguese wine round things off nicely. cod fillet with corn bread and seafood wall tiles painted by Luís Ferreira, panels crust. Craving meat? Opt for fried wild rabbit depicting the four seasons, and ceilings Solar dos Presuntos (Rua das with coriander or veal stuffed with spinach decorated with Heraldic motifs. Opt for a Portas de Santo Antão, 150 – and black pudding. Desserts are divine and Portuguese steak (ccoked to secret recipes Baixa) the local wines, top notch. A true Portuguese that have been delighting diners for over 170 Opened in October 1974, this traditional meal to savor. years) accompanied by a draft beer or restaurant pays homage to cuisine from fine wine. Portugal’s northwesterly Minho region. The menu remains largely unchanged, serving hearty, regional food such as à Gomes de Sá (cod with potatoes), duck rice with smoked ham, and various sausages from the region of Monção. Expect to eat well— and lots— amongst local stars from the worlds of poli- tics, football and the Arts.

140 RESTAURANTS Gourmet 100 Maneiras (Rua do Teixeira, 35 − BELCANTO (LARGO DE S. CARLOS, Largo Restaurante Varanda Bairro Alto) 10, - CHIADO) (Rua Serpa Pinto, 10 A – Chiado) (Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca, 88 − Bosnian-Portuguese chef, Ljubomir Stanisic, Having earned its second Michelin star in Housed in an old cloister near the opera Marquês de Pombal) surprises customers daily in ‘100 ways’, 2014, after its first star in 2012, Belcanto is house, Largo’s surroundings are as hip as The beautifully restored 1950s dining room depending on his Ribeira market purchases. Chef José Avillez’s top restaurant in Lisbon, the food. Old columns and tanks of color- perfectly sets the scene for the fine A hotspot for the jet-setting crowd, the as well as the only two-starred restaurant in changing jellyfish characterize the über- attention to detail and exemplary service intimate black and white restaurant seats just the city. The Chef is also the first Portuguese cool interiors of Miguel Câncio Martins that awaits at Varanda. With its contem- 30 at a time. The menu features more Chef to ever earn two Michelin stars. (of Paris’s Buddha Bar fame). The menu is porary Mediterranean cuisine and views fish than meat, alongside 100 Portuguese Having maintained the history of this iconic equally modern: brainchild of Lisbon’s cel- over Eduardo VII Park, it is the restaurant wines. Don’t miss the surprise desserts. space in the city, here we find the innovative ebrated Miguel Castro e Silva (formerly of of choice for the local aristocracy, political haute cuisine of the Mediterranean-inspired Porto’s Bull & Bear) it’s modern Portuguese movers and shakers, movie stars and inter- Alma (Rua Anchieta, 15 – chiado) Chef, in harmony with a sophisticated yet at its innovative best. A great ambience national jet-setters. Chef Pascal Meynard Just after a year of closing, Celebrity Chef intimate environment. whether you’re there for a power lunch or a delights with: starters such as Henrique Sá Pessoa has brought back his romantic evening à deux. Venere Risotto with lobster and crawfish signature restaurant “Alma”, much to the Eleven (Rua Marquês de Fron- and Pata Negra emulsion; fish dishes like delight of Lisbon gourmands in the know, teira, Jardim Amália Rodrigues) Minibar (rua antónio maria Monk fish with cardamom, artichoke who used to flock to the old location in In a leafy area in the heart of the business cardoso, 58 - chiado) purée and clementine emulsion; and meat the Santos neighbourhood specifically for district – with views of the city and Tagus The show must go on: José Avillez just selections such as Roasted veal tender- the Chef’s famous food. River – Eleven is a modern, minimalist opened a new restaurant, this loin, pumpkin seeds, leek and black truffle Inside, you just can’t miss the Chef’s table in restaurant serving sophisticated Mediter- time a gastronomical bar inside the Teatro stuffed potato. Don’t miss Sunday Brunch— front of the lively open kitchen – seating 6 ranean cuisine. The seasonal menu changes São Luiz, in Chiado. a family ritual for locals and guests alike. to 8 people. The Chef also personally intro- daily, based on the freshest available pro- You can go for a drink, a “petisco”, a mini One of Lisbon’s top eateries — highly duces some of the dishes, and he is super duce at the local markets. dish or a degustation menu, recommended! friendly – between his restaurant and his at the counter, balcony or the stalls - and TV shows, Chef Sá Pessoa has become one taste some surprises from the of the most beloved characters in the Portu- menu of Belcanto, the Chef’s two Michelin- guese culinary world. starred restaurant, as well as Complementing the space are beautiful from El Bulli, where he also worked as a high stone-arched ceilings, and the decora- Sous-Chef. tion is very warm and the seats very com- fortable.

142 RESTAURANTS Fish/Seafood Contemporary

Aqui Ha Peixe (Rua da Trindade O Mercado do Peixe (Estrada Pe- Bica do Sapato (Avenida Infante GUILTY (RUA BARATA SALGUEIRO, nº 18 A, Chiado) dro Teixeira, Vila Simão − Car- D. Henrique) 28A) Following the success of his Comporta estab- amão da Ajuda) An excellent joint venture between John After exploring different interpretations of lishment, Chef Miguel Reino opened Aqui Located a short distance outside the city, this Malkovich, Manuel Reis and the owners of internatinal cuisine, this time Chef Olivier Ha Peixe in response to demand for a great is a perfect spot for a weekend family Pap Açorda. Architects Fernando S. Sal- has ventured into some more casual dining, fish restaurant in Chiado. He might have lunch. Indulge in the freshest fish (serious- vador and Margarida Grácio Nunes drew with wood-oven-baked pizzas, burguers, swopped the beach for stone walls and vault- ly—you’ll see it flipping as it’s weighed) their inspiration from a 1960s international and pastas in a more laid back ambience. ed arches, but the house favourites remain that’s cooked in front of you. The cabeças de airport lounge; somehow it works, with the The interior includes a DJ booth, and you the same: appetizers to die for, succulent fish peixe grelhadas (grilled fish heads) are a spacious terrace reminiscent of a port be- feel like you’re more in a lounge atmosphere and black rice with cuttlefish ink. The real treat. tween two boats on the Tagus. The menu than in a restaurant. Take advantage of their wine list is limited but not disappointing. remains largely unchanged, but it’s not an great bar for cocktails pre or post-dinner. Reino shops daily at the 31 de Janeiro Porto de Santa (Estrada do issue for the fashionistas, politicians, TV Market, while wife Mafalda bakes the three Guincho – Cascais) stars and wannabes who flock there. XL main desserts. Heavenly dining. This formal one Michelin star restaurant (Calçada da Estrela, 57 – Rato) (known to those in the know as ‘PSM’) is a CANTINHO DO AVILLEZ (RUA This sophisticated restaurant has one of the CERVEJARIA RAMIRO (AV. ALMIRAN- real institution. Located near Guincho beach DUQUES DE BRAGANÇA, 7 - CHIADO) best wine cellars in Portugal – and a crowd TE REIS, 1H) with views over the Atlantic Ocean, it Cantinho do Avillez is the second restau- to match. Local jet-setters and MPs from the Ramiro is a casual, genuine Portuguese shell- serves some of the finest seafood and shell- rant of Chef José Avillez. After regaining adjacent Portuguese Assembly pack the fish restaurant, with a unique atmosphere. In fish in the country – with wines to match – Belcanto, the young chef has accomplished contemporary white and sand-coloured din- the bottom floor, one can find aquariums and including the plumpest langoustines and an old project by opening this casual place ing room, drawn by the house steaks tiles from the prestigious “Viúva Lamego” spider crabs. A high-end establishment; offering Portuguese home-style cooking. (prepared in 15 different ways), the deep house. The top floor is a bit more quiet than expect to rub shoulders with royalty, actors, The result is this small, welcoming and fried cheese and mushroom starters, sea bass the very busy bottom floor. politicians and business magnates. comfortable space, with a bar where you and the traditional sugary egg desserts. can also sample some traditional “petiscos” cevicheria (rua d. pedro V, 129 - Sea Me (rua do loreto, 21 - chia- - Portuguese traditional Tapas. Príncipe Real) do) On an unassuming corner of the Príncipe Sea Me is one of the coolest places serving Real neighbourhood sits Cevicheria, a restau- fish in Lisbon. They reinterpret the concept rant dedicated to south-american cuisine, es- of traditional fish restaurants that exist in pecially Peruvian tapas and Ceviche, headed one’s mind and transform it into an un- by Portuguese Chef Kiko Martins. ashamedly cool and contemporary ambience. However, don’t let its nonchalant appear- With fish and seafood at its core, Sea Me sets ance fool you – Cevicheria is one of Lisbon’s out to discover the vast fauna of the Portu- greatest gastronomic gems, highlighting even guese coastline, selecting only prime ingredi- further Príncipe Real’s statute as the city’s ents. coolest new neighbourhood.

144 RESTAURANTS International estoril mandarim (PRAÇA JOSÉ SUSHI CAFÉ (AV. BARATA SAL- ZAMBEZE (CALÇADA MARQUÊS DE TEODORO DOS SANTOS − CASINO GUEIRO, 28) TANCOS, EDIFÍCIO EMEL, MERCADO DO ESTORIL) Located close to Av. da Liberdade, this DO CHÃO DO LOUREIRO) Located in the Casino de Estoril this Chi- bar- restaurant specialises in traditional This rooftop café-restaurant offers breath- nese restaurant is situated amidst fountains, Japa- nese cuisine, created by profession- taking views of Lisbon and the river, with sophisticated lighting and a great view: you als with experience in reputable Japanese a fusion of the traditional Beira region cui- could be just off the boat in Macau. restau- rants around the world. The space sine together with Mozambican flavours. Gamble safely on any of the exotic dishes is elegant and contemporary, divided into The decoration is filled with many iconic – sautéed prawns in bird’s nest, ragout of different ambiances, from the bar an din- elements of Portuguese culture, including shellfish supreme, honey-roasted pork loin ing area for faster sushi meals, to the more earthenware pieces of Bordallo Pinheiro and sliced duck with ginger...they’re all win- formal din- ing room lit in purple tones and Vista Alegre. Along with the restaurant, ners. and filled with white tables and chairs. The the terrace is the perfect place to enjoy the menu goes beyond the sushi, mixing lesser- Lisbon famous light while enjoying a drink. NOOD (LARGO RAFAEL BORDALO known Japanese dishes The city’s original Japanese restaurant, Aya PINHEIRO, 20 – CHIADO) serves delicious sushi and sashimi, with a Foodies know this popular eatery for its selection of California rolls, salmon and tasty signature ice cream: chocolate and tuna makis and nigris. Beware of the spicy wasabi. The simple canteen-style establish- wasabi flying-fish eggs! ment is both noodle bar and sushi restau- rant, serving a mixture of yaki udon (Japa- yakuza first floor (Rua da Es- nese noodles), yakitori (grilled chicken on cola Politécnica 231 - Príncipe skewers) and gyoza (Asian pastries). Book Real) in advance to avoid disappointment. Opened in late 2015 in the Príncipe Real district’s main road, Yakuza First Floor is Chef Olivier’s most recent addition to his already impressive portfolio in the city. A large wooden table embraces the cook- ing area, where you can see all the Chefs at work on a wide variety of Japanese dishes. ; our insider’s tip is to actually ask the Chef to be the one to choose for you, as you’ll be sure to end up eating some of their signa- ture dishes, and the ones the Chef is more inspired to do. It also allows him some freedom and you will most probably end up having something special that isn’t on the menu!

146 RESTAURANTS Quick Bites ritz bar (Rua Rodrigo da Fon- mazagran, cold tea, orchata, lemon and PIZZARIA LISBOA (RUA DUQUES DE seca, 88 − Marquês de Pombal) cinnamon flavoured milk, capilé and goose- BRAGANÇA, 5H) The dramatic red and black décor, views of berry, Port wine, Beirão liqueur and Mosca- In this Mediterranean-inspired restaurant, Fado Houses Eduardo VII Park, live piano music and tel and savor the city at its unhurried best. thin-crust pizzas of Nepolitan traditions Clube de Fado – João da Praça cocktails to die for (we recommend Ricardo are made in the wood oven special brought (Rua S. João da Praça, 92/94) Felgueiras [barman’s] specialty “10-year 100 MANEIRAS BISTRO (LARGO DA directly from Italy. There are also risottos, To renowned guitar player, Mário Pacheco, Porto Flip”), enhance the special atmo- TRINDADE, 9 – CHIADO) pastas and salads in a relaxed atmosphere fado should only be played with a sphere of this cult Lisbon bar. Snack on a This beautiful Art Deco space houses one restaurant. Portuguese guitar, which ‘most expressively Cuban sandwich with roast pork (“Prego no of Lisbon’s most creative contemporary defines this type of music. Having played bolo caco”) or Chef Meynard’s deliciously restaurants: an extension of Chef Ljubomir POPULI (PRAÇA DO COMÉRCIO, ALA alongside the great fado voices such as moreish cheesecake amongst the fashion- Stanisic’s acclaimed 100 Maneiras. Literally NASCENTE, 85) Amália Rodrigues, Alfredo Marceneiro and able crowd of politicians, actors and fash- translated as ‘100 ways bistro’, the restaurant Located in the famous Praça do Comércio Hermínia Silva, he later turned to authentic ionaistas who swear by this classy favouite. serves a daily-changing menu that blends and serving all day until late night, this café fado composing before opening Clube de Portuguese and international inspirations. and restaurant is known for its delicious Fado where he both plays and regularly CAFÉ LISBOA (LARGO DE SÃO CAR- Spread over two floors, with distant river Sunday brunch, as well as a fusion menu showcases other artists. LOS, 23) views, it is open until 2am to accommodate that mixes steaks and risottos with a variety Café Lisboa is located within the National the Bairro Alto night owls. Smoking and of tapas and Portuguese wines. Faia (Rua da Barroca, 54 − Baixa- Theatre of São Carlos, and sports a classic non-smoking sections, a lounge and cock- Chiado) café ambience along with a modern design tail bar appeal to the discerning crowd. You don’t have to understand the words to styling and is great for a meal or cocktail appreciate this exemplary fado house. A at any time of the day. The menu includes great example of traditional Portugal, from a variety of steaks and the house specialty: the menu to the melancholy music, Pastéis Lisboa (freshly-made pastries). subdued lighting and cozy corners.

QUIOSQUES (LARGO DE CAMÕES, PRÍNCIPE REAL AND PRAÇA DAS FLORES) Catarina Portas, owner of traditional Portu- guese shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’ has revived the traditional quiosques (kiosks) popular in the 19th and 20th centuries. Located in the Bairro Alto, Príncipe Real Gardens and Praça das Flores districts, architect João Regal has designed the new kiosks based on the originals. Sip traditional limonade,

148 NIGHTLIFE

Café Suave (Rua Diário de Notí- Hot Club de Portugal Jazz Club Mahjong (Rua da Atalaia, 3 − cias, 6 − Bairro Alto) (Praça da Alegria, 48, Cave – Bairro Alto) An intimate arty atmosphere frequented by a Baixa) World music and alternative pop rock en- laid-back crowd of actors, journalists and Opened in 1948, Portugal’s oldest jazz club is sure the enduring popularity of this longtime models. Minimalist and very hip. still one of its very best. Low lighting, Bairro Alto institution. live performances from international artists Cinco Lounge (Rua Ruben A. and weekly jam sessionss combine to make Op Art Café (Doca de Santo Ama- Leitão, 17 A – Rato) this a true jazz lover’s paradise. ro – Alcântara) Discover explosive cocktail combinations at A glass cube facing the Doca de Santo Amaro, this lounge in the heart of the Principe K Urban Beach (Rua da Cintura – with famous DJs mixing the best of electronic Real district. A great place to sit for a few so- Santos) music for a cool crowd lured by the innova- phisticated drinks, away from busy Bairro When the summer nights heat up, chill out tive ‘dining room to dancefloor’ concept. Alto. on K Urban Beach’s riverside verandah that brings beachside bliss to the city between July Estado Líquido (Largo de San- and September every year. tos, 5 A – Santos) A relaxed vibe under shades of orange and main (Avenida 24 de Julho, 68 – red. A cool place for the over 25s, with Santos) chill-out music and a sushi bar upstairs. Portuguese tycoons, yuppies and TV stars fill MAIN’s three levels in a cacophony of musi- Hennessy’s Irish Pub (Rua do Cais cal styles including dance, rock, pop, 70s and do Sodré) 80s. MAIN operates a strict dress code and Old sewing machines, buttons, sketched wall entrance policy. frames and various weaving paraphenalia decorate this lounge-style Irish pub. Sink into Lux (Avenida Infante D. Hen- comfy sofas with a beer or whisky whilst lis- rique − Santa Apolónia) tening to live Irish country music. The perfect In the 80s, owner Manuel Reis’ gave Bairro pre- or post-dinner hangout, adjacent to Cais Alto Frágil. Today, he’s elevating the riverside do Sodré railway station and the River Tagus. to hip new heights with Lux: three floors packed with VJs, fashionistas, movie stars, crazy performers and some of the city’s most original music. Ask the hotel concierge about entrance.

150 NIGHTLIFE

Pavilhão Chinês (Rua D. Pedro V, 89 − Príncipe Real) A former 19th century tea and coffee shop, with comfy couches and glass cabinets displaying intriguing international artefacts and curiosities. A great spot for pre-dinner drinks.

Portas Largas (Rua da Atalaia, 105 − Bairro Alto) Everyone is welcome in this popular gay drinking spot housed in a former tavern. A laid-back hangout, it’s more about the atmo- sphere than the music.

Silk (Rua da Misericórdia, 14 – Chiado) Guest-list reservations are a must for this exclusive, uber-chic club—ask the hotel concierge to book you in. It’s worth it for the views from the rooftop terrace and heady blend of jazz, blues and dance music. The sultry space is also available to hire for private parties.

152 MONUMENTS

Castelo De Sao Jorge (Castle of Francisco Franco, it was officially opened in by Henry at the helm, a further 32 carved official residence of Portuguese royalty in St George) 1959 in the presence of the statue of figures of legendary navigators, cartogra- the late 18th century and was most famous- Situated atop Lisbon’s highest hill, above Fátima, believed to have miraculous pow- phers, kings and patrons evoke the city’s ly used to incarcerate Queen Maria when Alfama’s maze of alleyways, the oldest parts ers. Take a lift to the platform just below the unrivalled maritime expansion. Head inside she descended into madness. Over the of this sprawling castle complex date back Christ figure for mind-blowing views back for multimedia exhibitions or right the years, the palace’s stunning facade and to the 6th century. Conquered from the across Lisbon’s historic skyline. way to the top for more stunning river grounds have earned it the nickname the Moors in 1147 by Portugal’s first king, it views. ‘Portuguese Versailles’. Its many restored remained a royal residence until the 16th Jerónimos Monastery rooms have been open to the public since century, before being severely damaged in A masterpiece of Manueline architecture, Palácio da Fronteira (Fron- 1940. Tour the impressive state and pri- the earthquake of 1755. Today the castle the Monastery’s flamboyant decoration teira Palace) vate apartments packed with 18th century has been restored to its former glory, com- includes detailed sculptures of maritime Fronteira Palace, often called the Palace of art, dine in the original palace kitchens or plete with courtyards, battlements and symbols and motifs. The build was ordered the Marquises, occupies a rural location in marvel at the 50,000 azulejos that adorn the beautiful gardens within ancient Moorish by Manuel I (1495-1521) to commemorate Lisbon’s northwest suburb of Benfica. The garden’s 100-meter Grand Canal. walls. A multimedia show and exhibitions Vasco da Gama’s successful return from private property, open to visitors, was bring the city’s history to life while outside, India. It replaced Ermida do Restelo (a her- originally built as a hunting pavilion for Praça do Rossio (Rossio Square) fountains and peacocks grace the shady mitage that was previously founded João de Mascarenhas in 1640 and features Commonly known as Rossio, Pedro IV surrounds. Above all, tourists flock to the by Henry the Navigator) and was funded by splendid reception rooms decorated with Square (Praca de D. Pedro IV) has been one castle for its spectacular views across treasure accumulated from Lisbon’s tiles, panels, contemporary furniture and of Lisbon’s main squares since the Middle Lisbon. Also worth a peep is the fascinating overseas explorations and high taxes earned oil paintings from the 17th and 18th cen- Ages. Located in the Pombaline District, it camera obscura in the Torre de Ulisses by the Portuguese-controlled spice trade. turies. Within the striking formal grounds has hosted celebrations and executions, (Tower of Ulysses), which projects realtime The monastery was occupied by the Order there is a terraced walk, a topiary garden bullfights and revolts, and remains a popu- images of the city onto a large screen. of Saint Jerome (the Hieronymites, who and statuary, with mythical figures and lar meeting spot for both locals and tour- provided spiritual guidance to the seafarers) busts of Portuguese kings. There are also a ists. Named after King Pedro IV – whose Cristo Rei until 1833. Today, it accommodates the number of fountains, decorated with some bronze statue graces its centre – it is also Inspired by the Christ the Redeemer statue tombs of Vasco da Gama, and Luís de of the city’s most beautiful tiles depicting home to the Queen Maria II Theater. in Rio de Janeiro, Lisbon’s Cristo Rei Camões, Portugal’s national poet ,within its hunting, battle and religious scenes. overlooks Lisbon from an elevated position exquisitely carved and gilted interiors. on the river’s south bank, just past the 25 Palácio Nacional de Queluz de Abril bridge. Comprising a 28-meter fig- Monument of Discoveries (Queluz National Palace) ure of Christ atop a 78-meter tower, it was Inaugurated in 1960 to mark the 500th an- Located 15-kilometers outside Lisbon, this erected to give thanks to God for having niversary of the death of Henry the ornate Rococo palace was originally built spared Portugal in the Second World War. Navigator, this iconic caravel-shape monu- in 1747 as a summer retreat for Dom Pedro Work of architect António Lino, engineer ment protrudes over the river in celebration of Braganza (who later became King after Francisco de Mello e Castro and sculptor of the city’s illustrious seafaring history. Led marrying his niece Maria I). It became the

154 MONUMENTS

Tower of Belém Santa Justa Elevator Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Also known as the ‘Elevator of Carmo’, this 1983, this one-time defensive fortress and impressive 45-meter (147-ft) iron ceremonial gateway to Lisbon was built in the structure links downtown Baixa with the early 16th century during Portugal’s higher Largo do Carmo. Opened in 1902 golden Age of Discovery. The tower was or- (and originally powered by steam), it was dered by King João II and dedicated to the built by the Portuguese-born French archi- patron saint of Lisbon, St Vincent. A striking tect, Raoul de Mesnier du Ponsard, appren- example of Manueline architecture – a tice to Gustave Eiffel (note the similarities to Portuguese late Gothic style – the tower is the Eiffel Tower!) Take the ride to the top for encircled with stone-carved ropes and great views of the river, castle and Praça do decorated with heraldic motifs, armillary Rossio, or ascend higher still, via the spiral spheres and symbols of the King’s power. staircase to the top storey café for a bite Look out for the carved rhinocerous, com- with serious city views. memorating a gift from India to Manuel I – the first rhino in Europe, considered at the time to be the strongest animal on earth. Over the years the tower has been a customs control point, lighthouse and political prison. Visit the tiny dungeons, explore the irregular lower bastion, (complete with famous ‘Our Lady of Safe Homecoming’ statue) or climb the steep tower staircase for breathtaking river views.

156 Entertainment

Calouste Gulbekian Pavilhão do Conhecimento (the Planetarium Knowledge Pavilion) The 330-seat planetarium, adjacent to the Located on the former site of the ’98 Expo Maritime Museum, offers an entertaining World Fair, this exciting science and tech- and educational insight into the mysteries of nology museum is a stimulating centre of the universe. Tour the fascinating interactive experiments and tantalising tests exhibitions before marvelling at the astro- exploring everything from the simple to the nomical shows projected onto the 25-meter sublime. Excellent hands-on fun for visitors diameter dome. Ask the hotel concierge to of all ages. check the times of the Portuguese, English and French shows before you visit. Sintra Toy Museum This private collection of more than 20,000 Lisbon Zoo pieces, amassed over a period of 50 years Acrobatic dolphins, performing parrots and by João Arbués Moreira, is a profusion of an Enchanted Forest are just some of the play things. From rare wax, porcelain and zoo’s many attractions. Take a cable car over paper mâché dolls to tin soldiers in their the hippos, rhinos, lions and tigers, tour thousands, miniature theatres to Meccano’s Primates’ Temple, feed the sealions and walk famous Dinky Toys. Fascinating for everyone amongst exotic birds and reptiles. There from the young to the still-young-at-heart. is also a large playground, cafe and train.

Oceanarium Explore the fascinating underwater world courtesy of one of the largest and most impressive oceanariums in the world. Hugely entertaining for all ages, with an incredible central tank and strong conserva- tion message to match. Well worth a visit.

158 What &When2017 Our Events Calendar JAN - JUN March . Foodies: Campo APRIL Pequeno Gourmet . Fish Lovers: Lisbon Market (3 to 5) JUNE fish festival (gastro- · Fashionistas: Moda . Music Lovers: nomic fish festival MAY Guns N’ Roses (2) Lisboa (Lisbon Fash- . Movie Lovers: In- with the best Chefs . Music Lovers: FEBRUARY ion Week) (9 to 12) in Lisbon) die Lisboa (Cinema . Chocoholics: Ariana Grande (11) · For our Runners: . Music Lovers: Festival) (3-14) Campo Pequeno . Party goers: Festas 27th Marathon Bruno Mars (4) . Music Lovers: Chocolate Festival TExt Here da Cidade (City’s of Lisbon (19) . Musicians among Ricky Martin (12) (9-12) Popular Saints Fes- . Fish Lovers: Peixe . Art Lover: JANUARY us: Music Days tivities) · New Year’s Eve em Lisboa (Lisbon ARCOlisboa (18-21) at Cultural Center in · Readers: Lisbon’s celebration Fish & Flavours) . Music Lovers: Belém (28-30) Annual Book Fair (Mar 30 - Apr 9) Plácido Domingo . Cocktail Lovers: across the street (22) Lisbon Cocktail from the Hotel Week (21-29) . Music Lovers: .Tennis Lovers: Esto- Aerosmith (26) ril Open (23 to 1) 160 What &When2017 Our Events Calendar JULY JUL - DEC . Music lovers: Deep Purple (4) . Music lovers: NOS Alive (6 - 8) DECEMBER . Longines Global SEPTEMBER MEO OutJazz - Jazz · Holiday Lovers: Champions Tour AUGUST . MEO OutJazz - music across Lisbon’s Lighting of giant (6 - 8) NOVEMBER Christmas tree Jazz music across gardens OCTOBER . Volvo Ocean Race . Festival ao Largo . Winter market Lisbon’s gardens . Vogue Fashion’s · Documentary (Oct 28 - Nov 5) (Classical Music Fes- Wonderland Lisboa Night Out Lovers: Doc Lisboa . Web Summit tival) (7-30) · New Year’s Eve (6 - 9) . Super Bock Super celebration (31) Rock (13 to 15) . Lisbon + Estoril . EDP CoolJazz Fest Film Festival (19 - 29) . Festival Lover: Vodafone Mexefest

162