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Home , Clueless (game show), Selonians, Semigallians, Vilnius, Warsaw

The Baltic Capitals & St. Petersburg

Plus optional extensions:

Krakow & , and ,

2016

Overseas Adventure Travel The Baltic Capitals & St. Petersburg Handbook Table of Contents

1. TRAVEL DOCUMENTS ...... 3 YOUR PASSPORT ...... 3 VISAS REQUIRED ...... 4 EMERGENCY PHOTOCOPIES ...... 5 AIRPORT TRANSFERS ...... 5 2. HEALTH ...... 6 IS THIS ADVENTURE RIGHT FOR YOU ? ...... 6 STEPS TO TAKE BEFORE YOUR TRIP ...... 7 JET LAG PRECAUTIONS ...... 8 STAYING HEALTHY ON YOUR TRIP ...... 9 3. MONEY MATTERS ...... 10 HOW TO CARRY YOUR MONEY ...... 10 CURRENCY ...... 11 TIPPING ...... 13 SHOPPING IN THE BALTICS ...... 13 SHOPPING IN KRAKOW & WARSAW ...... 14 U.S. CUSTOMS REGULATIONS AND SHIPPING CHARGES ...... 14 4. OPTIONAL TOUR—RESERVE EARLY ...... 15 Optional Imperial Russia: The Kremlin Armory tour ...... 15 5. CLIMATE: A WORD ABOUT THE WEATHER ...... 16 6. PACKING JUST WHAT YOU NEED ...... 19 YOUR LUGGAGE & LOCKS ...... 19 SUGGESTIONS ...... 21 TRAVELER ’S CHECKLISTS ...... 21 A WORD ABOUT ELECTRICITY ...... 24 7. LEARN ABOUT YOUR DESTINATIONS ...... 25 AT A GLANCE ...... 25 AT A GLANCE ...... 28 AT A GLANCE ...... 30 RUSSIA AT A GLANCE ...... 33 POLAND AT A GLANCE ...... 37 CULTURAL INTERACTION ...... 38 SAFETY & SECURITY ...... 39 COMMUNICATIONS ...... 39 8. ADDITIONAL RESOURCES ...... 40 SUGGESTED READINGS ...... 40 SUGGESTED MOVIES ...... 42 USEFUL WEBSITES ...... 44 Travel Documents

1. Travel Documents Your Passport Please take a moment to confirm that your passport meets all of these requirements: • It should be valid for at least 6 months after your scheduled return to the U.S. • It should have the recommended number of blank pages (see below for details). • The blank pages must be labeled “Visas” at the top. Pages labeled “Amendments and Endorsements” are not acceptable.

Recommended number of blank pages Know that this recommendation is based on a “worst case” scenario. When you are on this adventure, you might use fewer pages, depending on the whims of the official on duty that day. Since the consequence of having too few pages can be severe—you could be denied entry into a country—we at OAT feel that in this case, safe is better than sorry, and we strongly recommend that you follow these guidelines.

• Main trip only : If you are taking only the main trip, you will require 5 blank passport pages. • Pre-trip to Krakow and Warsaw, Poland: This extension does not require any additional pages beyond the 5 needed for the main trip. • Post-trip to Moscow: This extension does not require any additional pages beyond the 5 needed for the main trip. • Both pre- and a post-trip extension: You will need a total of 5 blank pages.

If you need to renew your passport: Contact the National Passport Information Center (NPIC) at 1-877-487-2778, or visit their website at www.travel.state.gov for information on obtaining a new passport or renewing your existing passport. You may also contact our recommended visa service company, PVS International, at 1-800-556-9990 for help with your passport.

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Visas Required We’ll be sending you a detailed Visa Packet with instructions, application forms, and fees about 100 days prior to your departure . In the meantime, we’re providing the information below as a guideline on what to expect. This info is for U.S. citizens only. All visas and fees are subject to change.

• Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania—no visas needed: U.S. citizens do not need visas for stays of less than 90 days in any of these countries • Russia (main trip and optional extension)— visa required. Can only be obtained in advance: You must obtain this visa before you depart the U.S. It is very important that you apply for your visa through PVS International. Obtaining a Russian visa on your own through an embassy or consulate is a complicated and bureaucratic process. It requires a letter of sponsorship that Overseas Adventure Travel is unable to supply to you individually. PVS is able to work within this restriction when your application is processed through them, but for legal reasons cannot assist you with applying directly to the embassy. Details on obtaining your visa through PVS International will be included with your application. • Poland (optional extension)— no visa needed: U.S. citizens do not need visa for stays of less than 90 days.

If you are staying longer in any of these countries, you should check with PVS International or their embassy for the applicable regulations:

Estonia: (202) 588-0101 Latvia (202) 328-2840 Lithuania (202) 234-5860 Russia (202) 298-5700 Poland (202) 234-3800

Traveling without a U.S. passport? If you are not a U.S. citizen, or if your passport is from any country other than the U.S., it is your responsibility to check with your local consulate, embassy, or a visa services company about possible visa requirements. For your convenience, we recommend the services of PVS International, a national visa service located in Washington D.C.; they can be reached at 1-800-556-9990 or www.pvsinternational.org .

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Emergency Photocopies The smartest and easiest security precaution you can take is to carry photocopies of key documents: the photo page of your passport plus any applicable visas, your air itinerary, and credit card numbers. Add emergency phone numbers like your credit card company and the number for your travel protection plan. Store copies separate from the originals. This can save you time, money, and bother if your documents are lost during your trip.

If you don’t feel like taking paper copies, consider going digital. Scan everything and email it to yourself. That way as long as you have access to email, you can access the info you need. Another option is to give copies to a trusted friend or relative at as a backup that they can email or fax to you if you need it.

Airport Transfers

Please note: If you plan on booking your own international flights or arranging with our air department to arrive/depart on an earlier/later date than standard for your program, airport transfers will NOT be included in your program price. Transfers must be purchased separately, as an optional add-on, and are subject to availability. To learn more, or purchase airport transfers, please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814.

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2. Health Is This Adventure Right For You? We’ve worked closely with our local Trip Leaders and regional associates to identify the aspects of this adventure that you should be aware of, from physical requirements to cultural factors. Please carefully review the information below prior to departing on this adventure . We reserve the right for our Trip Leaders to modify participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their condition would adversely affect the health, safety, or enjoyment of themselves or of other travelers.

Physical requirements This adventure is suitable for OAT travelers who live an active lifestyle, enjoy good health and mobility, and are comfortable participating in 6-8 hours of daily physical activities and sightseeing. You should be able to walk 3 miles unassisted over the course of each day. This adventure is not appropriate for travelers using or other mobility aids. During our walking tours, there may not be any opportunity to sit down.

Pacing We travel to 5 locations in 15 days. We’ll experience lengthy overland travel of 3 to 5 hours each on Days 5, 7, and 10; plus one 8 to 9 hour transfer on Day 13. We’ll go for several walking tours in centers and an uphill hike in the Curonian Spit.

Climate & terrain Due to the varied geography of the destinations on this adventure, you will experience a wide range of temperatures and weather conditions. As for terrain, we’ll travel on city streets and paved roads, with several walking tours along cobblestone streets.

Transportation We drive overland in a 30 passenger air-conditioned coach, we take a local tram in , a local train in , a small boat to Castle, and the local ferry to Nida on the Curonian Spit. On an optional tour, you can choose to take a hot-air balloon ride on Day 4.

Accommodations All accommodations are hotel-standard, with a variety of amenities and personal service, as well as private bathrooms.

Group size 16 maximum with 1 Trip Leader.

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Steps to Take Before Your Trip Before you leave on your adventure, there are at least four health-related things you should do. We’ll outline some of these steps in more detail in the following pages, but for now, here’s the short list:

• Step 1: Check with the CDC for their recommendations for the countries you’ll be visiting. You can contact them online at wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel or by phone at 1-800-232-4636 . • Step 2: Have a medical checkup with your doctor. • Step 3: Pick up any necessary medications, both prescription and over-the-counter. • Step 4: Have a dental and/or eye checkup. (Recommended, but less important than steps 1-3.)

Medical Checkup After checking the CDC’s recommendations, we strongly recommend that you have a medical checkup with your doctor at least six weeks before your trip. (We suggest you check with the CDC first so that you can have an informed conversation with your doctor about vaccines and such.) Topics to discuss during your checkup are:

• The CDC recommendations. The CDC makes suggestions based on the destination, but that doesn’t mean the suggestions are right for you. Your doctor will be able to advise you on what is best considering your unique medical history. • Advice on what (if any) to bring. For our suggestions of what types of medications to ask your doctor about, see the section titled “Medications” that follows. Remember to get a copy of any prescriptions—written as a generic drug name—so you can replace your medications if they are lost during the trip. • Your fitness for this adventure. This is a must if you have any medical conditions or physical limitations. Use the “Is This Adventure Right For You?” section on previous pages as a guideline. Make certain to review any medical condition you have, particularly cardiac or respiratory disease or diabetes, and discuss the details of the trip itinerary as it pertains to your health. Remember, your trip may take you into remote areas, with no nearby medical facilities.

Please notify us in writing about any medical condition that may require special attention. If your report is normal, you don’t need to send it to us. If you send us a medical report, we don’t use it to determine if you should take this trip, or if you are likely to enjoy it. Those decisions are up to you and your doctor.

Medications Prescription medication suggestions Of course, you’ll need to bring an ample supply of any prescription medications you happen to be taking. You’ll also want to talk to your doctor about any medications suggested by the CDC. In addition, we suggest you ask about prescriptions for:

• An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness • A pain medication. You might need this in the unlikely event of an injury in a location where medical attention would be delayed.

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Over-the-counter medication suggestions When traveling, keep in mind that not every country has approved every medication. Most major brands are OK, but some medications we take for granted are not allowed in other countries. Fortunately, the U.S. State Department offers advice on restricted medications online at http://travel.state.gov/content/passports/english/go/customs.html . (Look under the “Criminal Penalties” and “Special Circumstances” sections of each country you’ll be visiting. If you don’t see anything mentioned, then major U.S. brands should be fine.)

TIP : At time of writing, the State Department did not have any special warnings about American over- the-counter medications for Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, and Poland. For Russia, the State Department did warn that large quantities of medication will receive scrutiny by Russian customs; they recommend that all U.S. citizens entering Russia with any prescription medication carry a copy of their valid U.S. prescription. This is your proof that your prescription medication was lawfully obtained in the .

Traveling with medications To avoid loss and to have them handy, pack medications in your carry-on bag. For quicker security screening at the airport—and a better experience if you get stopped by customs while overseas—keep medicines in their original, labeled containers. To be prepared for any unforeseen loss of your medications, you should also bring copies of the prescriptions, written using the generic drug name rather than a brand name.

Jet Lag Precautions You will feel better on the first days of your trip if, shortly before you leave home, you start to adjust to the different of your destination. Since you will cross several time zones to reach your destination, you may lose many hours of regular sleep. On arrival, your body then will have to suddenly adjust to new sleeping and eating patterns. The result is jet lag. Its symptoms are fatigue—often compounded by insomnia and general restlessness—irritability, and vague disorientation. You cannot totally avoid jet lag; but you can minimize it. Here's how:

° Start your trip well-rested. ° Begin a gradual transition to your new time zone before you leave or switch to your destination time zone when you get on the plane. Attempt to sleep and eat according to the new schedule. ° Avoid heavy eating and drinking caffeine or alcoholic beverages right before–and during–your flight. Drink plenty of water and/or fruit juice while flying. ° Stretch your legs, neck, and back periodically while seated on the plane, and make an effort to get up and walk about the cabin a few times to keep your blood circulation normal. ° After arrival, avoid the temptation to nap. ° Don’t push yourself to see a lot on your first day. ° Try to stay awake your first day until after dinner.

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Staying Healthy on Your Trip

Safe Water Tap water in the region is safe to drink, but is processed differently than in the U.S. so it can still upset your stomach or feel “heavy”. Therefore, we suggest drinking bottle water instead. Bottled water is readily available and inexpensive. (Bottled water is not included in the price of your tour.) When in doubt about the water, salads, or ice, just ask the restaurant or your Trip Leader. It is OK to brush your teeth or wash fruit with tap water.

Safe Food We’ve carefully chosen the restaurants for your group meals. Your Trip Leader can suggest restaurants for the meal you take on your own. Be very careful with food sold from vendors on the street, and with uncooked foods.

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3. Money Matters How to Carry Your Money Generally speaking, you’ll want to bring a mixture of different payment methods—some cash to exchange and a couple of cards—so that you’ll be prepared for any situation. In this chapter, we offer some tips on each type of payment method.

One note: Traveler’s checks are not recommended. They can be difficult to exchange and are rarely accepted in shops and restaurants.

Cash or Traveler’s Checks? Cash has an advantage over traveler’s checks . Cash is more readily exchanged and accepted than traveler's checks, and sometimes commands a better exchange rate. Cash is also a better choice for rural or undeveloped areas where ATMs and credit card machines are scarce.

So we know that bringing cash is a good idea—does that mean U.S. dollars or local currency? There is no need to obtain local currency before your trip. In fact, your U.S. bank may not carry it. You can change money when you arrive at the airport, or at banks, and money exchange offices. For more information on what type of currency can be used on this trip, see the “Currency” section. Torn, dirty, or taped U.S. bills will not be accepted for exchange. Bills that pre-date 2000 may not be accepted either.

ATMs International ATM networks are widely available throughout the Baltics, Russia, and Poland, so ATMs shouldn’t be too hard to find on this adventure. Plus your Trip Leader can advise you on ATM locations as well.

Using a local ATM on an international network will allow you to withdraw money from your U.S. account in local currency; your bank at home will calculate the conversion rate and charge you in U.S. dollars. However, many banks charge a fee ranging from $1 to $5 for every time you use a foreign ATM. Others will charge you a percentage of what you withdraw. We recommend that you check with your bank before you depart. You’ll also want to notify your bank that you’ll be out of the country—that way when they see foreign ATM withdrawals, they won’t put a fraud alert on your account. Lastly, don’t forget to memorize the actual digits of your card’s PIN number (many keypads at foreign ATMs do not include letters on their keys—they only display numbers.)

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Credit Cards Credit cards are widely accepted in this region, especially Visa and MasterCard. American Express is not widely accepted in the Baltics.

Please note that many European credit cards are moving to a new technology called “smartcards” or “chip-and-pin”. These cards have an embedded computer chip instead of a magnetized strip, and the card owner authorizes a purchase by entering a PIN (personal identification number) instead of signing a slip. This new technology is not common in the U.S., so occasionally there are machines in that can’t read U.S. cards. Or the machine can read the card, but asks for a PIN. This doesn’t happen often, and is nothing to worry about. You can usually resolve the situation by asking the cashier to let you sign. (If you don’t speak the language, just mime signing on your hand.) Or you can use another form of payment. For example, a debit card can sometimes be useful in place of a credit card because debit cards use PINs.

Even if you do not plan on using them, we suggest you bring one or two credit or debit cards as a “backup” or for optional tours. We also suggest that you bring more than one brand of card (Visa, MasterCard, American Express) if possible, because not every shop will take every card. For example, although the Discover card is now accepted in some countries outside the U.S., it is not widely adopted, so other brands will work at a much larger range of stores, restaurants, etc.

TIP : Many credit card companies have fraud alert departments that will freeze your card if they see suspicious charges—such as charges from another country. To avoid an accidental security block, it is a good idea to notify your credit card company you will be using your cards abroad. You can do this by calling their customer service number a week or two before your departure.

You should also double-check what phone number you could call if you have a problem with a card while you are abroad. Don’t assume you can use the 1-800 number printed on the back of your card—most 1- 800 numbers don’t work outside of the U.S.!

And speaking of credit cards, please keep in mind that optional tours with OAT can only be purchased with a credit or debit card (if it has a credit card logo and allows you to sign for purchases). Because our headquarters are in Boston, charges may appear to be from Boston or might be labeled as "OPT Boston" (depending on your credit card company).

Currency For current exchange rates, please refer to our website www.oattravel.com, your bank, or the financial section of your newspaper.

In Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania The official currency of Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania is the . The banknote and coin denominations in are as follows: • Bills come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, and 500 euro • Coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 cents; 1 and 2 euro

U.S. dollars are not widely accepted for payment; the euro is the currency of choice. Large banknotes (100, 200, and 500 euros) are not widely accepted because they are hard for shops to break them and there is a higher risk of getting a counterfeit bill; smaller denominations are preferred.

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In Russia The official currency of Russia is the ruble. On price tags, ruble is abbreviated to p (because of the differences between the Greco-roman and the Cyrillic alphabet.) One ruble is divided into 100 kopecks. Banknote and coin denominations are as follows: • Banknotes come in denominations of 10, 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000 p • Coins come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 50 kopecks and 1, 2, 5, 10 p

Technically, the ruble is the only legal currency in Russia; any payment in U.S. dollars or euros is considered “under the table”. When exchanging dollars for rubles, know that newer bills in good condition—without tears, wear, or writing on them—are vastly preferred. Bills that are worn, torn, or older than 2000 might be rejected.

TIP: For Russia, you can usually get a better exchange rate if you wait until after you arrive to change money. But if you do get Russian money before your trip, travelers may bring up to $3,000 worth of rubles in and out of Russia without restrictions. More than that requires a customs declaration.

In Poland The Polish monetary unit is the zloty, which is divided into 100 groszy. Banknote and coin denominations are as follows: ° Banknotes: 10, 20, 50, 100, and 200 zloty ° Coins: 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 groszy; 1, 2, and 5 zloty

The best way to exchange money: You'll get a better exchange rate in Poland at one of the privately run Kantors, open 9 am to 6 pm. Kantors will also change your leftover zlotys back into U.S. dollars.

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Tipping Of course, whether you tip, and how much, is always at your own discretion. For those of you who have asked for tipping suggestions, we offer these guidelines. Listed below are our recommendations for the tips that are not included in your tour price. All tips are quoted in U.S. dollars; tips can be converted and paid in local currency or in U.S. dollars. Do not use personal or traveler's checks for tips.

• OAT Trip Leader : It is customary to express a personal "thank you" to your OAT Trip Leader at the end of your trip, especially if he or she has provided you with individual service. As a guideline, many travelers give $8-$12 per person per day. • Housekeeping staff at hotels : $1-2 per room, per night • Waiters : When dining as a group, your tip is included—there is no need for you to leave an additional tip. When dining on your own, remember that tips are usually not included in the bill. The VAT, which may be listed on the bill, is a sales tax. It is customary to leave about 10% of the check as a tip. • Taxi drivers: Tipping is not customary, but many locals will round up the fare and let the driver keep the change.

Your tour price includes gratuities on the main trip and all optional extensions for local guides, drivers, and luggage porters that may assist you during the scheduled activities on your adventure.

On this trip, you may tip in U.S. dollars or local currency. If you plan to tip in dollars, our regional office suggests bringing small denomination bills to facilitate tipping. If you plan to use local currency, you might want to hang on to small denomination bills.

Shopping in the Baltics It is Overseas Adventure Travel's goal to identify and provide you with shopping opportunities that highlight unique, locally-produced products with good value from reliable vendors. For this reason there may be scheduled visits to local shops during your adventure. There is no requirement to make a purchase during these stops, and any purchase made is a direct transaction with the shop in question, subject to the vendor’s terms of purchase. Overseas Adventure Travel cannot be responsible for purchases you make on your trip or for the shipment of your purchases.

Crafts & Souvenirs Specialties of the Baltics include amber, CDs of traditional music, ceramics, knit goods, lace, leather- bound books, linen, local liquors such as Vana Tallinn and Black Balzam, silverware, and woodcarvings. You can also pick up candies, vodka, and woodwork, artwork, vintage items, and USSR-era knickknacks throughout the region in shops and at flea markets.

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Shopping in Krakow & Warsaw Polish folk objects make good mementos and are an excellent value. Some interesting possibilities include embroidery, lace, dolls in folk costumes, prints and engravings, amber, , and woodcarvings. The wide range of chain stores specializing in different local wares makes shopping in Poland relatively easy. Desa stores carry tapestries, painting, sculptures, and porcelain. Most stores accept local currency and major credit cards.

Store hours : Department stores are open from 10 or 11 am until 6, 7, or 8 pm. On Saturday and Sunday, stores are normally open as well.

VAT : There is a 22% VAT (Value Added Tax) build into the price of most items. Depending on how much you spend on certain goods, you may be eligible for a partial refund of this tax. Ask the shopkeeper or salesperson about the VAT at time of purchase, or talk to your Trip Leader about it before you shop. Be sure to save all receipts and VAT forms for Customs. U.S. Customs Regulations and Shipping Charges For all things related to U.S. Customs, the ultimate authority is the U.S. Bureau of Customs & Border Protection. Their website, www.cbp.gov has the answers to the most frequently asked questions. Or you can call them at 1-877-227-5511.

The top three points to know are: • At time of writing, your personal duty-free allowance is $800 for items brought with you. Items totaling more than $800 are subject to duty fees. • Items shipped home are always subject to duty when received in the U.S . Even when the shop has offered to include shipping and duties in the price, this typically means shipping to the nearest customs facility and payment of the export duties—not door-to-door shipping or payment of the import duties. All additional duties or shipping charges would be your responsibility. Unless an item is small enough to send by parcel service (like FedEx), chances are you will need arrange shipping or pick-up once the item is in the U.S. and will need to pay customs duties. • It is illegal to import products made from endangered animal species. U.S. Customs & Border Protection will seize these items, as well as most furs, , tortoise shell, reptile skins, feathers, plants, and items made from animal skins.

If You Have a Problem with a Purchase The best way to address a problem with a purchase is to not have one in the first place! So don’t forget to examine merchandise before paying for it, check contracts or agreements before signing, and review your receipt before leaving the shop. For major purchases, don’t hesitate to ask in advance about the return policy—local practice may vary from U.S. standards, so don’t assume that you have a certain number of days after the purchase to speak up.

But what if you do discover an issue with an item later on? In that case, your best recourse is to contact the vendor directly. For this reason we recommend that you keep a copy of all your receipts, invoices, or contracts, along with the shop’s contact information. Expect that any resolution will take longer than it would in the U.S. due to delays in communication, the complexities of international shipping/customs duties, and even cultural differences in how business is conducted.

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4. Optional Tour—Reserve Early During your trip, you will have the opportunity to join optional tours to further your discoveries. Most of these tours can only be booked onsite with your Trip Leader, but due to limited space the following optional tour must be booked before your departure. All optional tour costs are subject to change without notice.

Optional Imperial Russia: The Kremlin Armory tour

This optional excursion takes you on an indoor tour of the incredible Kremlin Armory which originated as the royal arsenal in the sixteenth century. Though it used to only contain weaponry, it is now one of Russia’s oldest historical museums and houses thousands of items decorated in precious stones, gems and . Here you can expect to learn about Russian history and view the armory’s unparalleled collection of historic relics including crowns and thrones of Russian , imperial arms, carriages, trophies, Fabergé eggs and more. This optional tour is only available on the Moscow, Russia post-trip extension, and the cost is $55 per person. All optional tour costs are subject to change without notice.

Due to limited space this optional tour must be booked before your departure and all tickets are non- refundable. Pre-bookings must be made by 30 days prior to departure.

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5. Climate: A Word about the Weather

Climate by Location The Baltic climate might be more temperate than you’d expect. Even though Estonia is on the same latitude as parts of Alaska, the climate is closer to that of New England or the Canadian seaboard (due to the influence of the shallow ). During and fall, high temperatures tend to be in the 50s. In summer, highs are generally in the 60s or 70s—despite the extra hours of daylight during the “White Nights”. Sometimes, however, the summer months will exhibit heat up to 90-95 degrees as well. Rain showers are more frequent in summer and early fall. Be aware however, that late fall (October & November) and winter can bring snow, dark (daylight hours are brief), and can be very cold, with temperatures below freezing, strong winds and freezing rains.

Below, we’ve written up climate descriptions and included temperature charts. One intriguing climate phenomenon experienced in many throughout the region is the “White Nights”, a term used to describe the unusually long hours of daylight around the . In Latvia or Lithuania the sun might not set until 9 pm, and in parts of Russia and Estonia, daylight can last until 10:30 pm!

• Tallinn, Estonia : The climate in northerly Tallinn is tempered by its location on the Baltic Sea. In summer, the city gets cooling sea breezes; in winter the same sea air keeps the snowfall in check. That’s not to say that Tallinn doesn’t get snow—a couple feet a year—but it’s considerably less than in nearby or Russia. Spring and fall bring mild temperatures but can also feature sea and/or sudden rain. In summer, high temperatures rarely top the low 80s.

• , Latvia : Summers in Riga tend to be short and cool with cloud cover; highs are generally in the 60s or 70s in July, but can sometimes go up to the 80s. Winters are usually dark and cold, with heavy snowfall from mid-December to mid-March. The city is overcast for roughly 40 percent of the year.

• Vilnius, Lithuania : Vilnius has bigger extremes between summer and winter than Tallinn or Riga. Summer highs can easily be in the high 80s, although usually it’s a few degrees cooler. In contrast most of winter is below freezing. Rainy days are possible all year round, but most rain falls during summer.

• St. Petersburg (main trip) and Moscow, Russia (optional extension): The climate in St. Petersburg is varied, and quick to change from sun to rain to wind—even within the space of one day. (Our regional office suggests wearing layers and bringing an umbrella, just in case.) Moscow has a , with very cold, long winters and warm, humid summers. Summer can bring occasional hot spells while winter temperatures are frequently far below freezing. Winter snows start in November and the snow blanket persists well into spring. Moscow has little rainfall, most of its falls as snow.

• Krakow & Warsaw (optional extension) : Poland has a long border with the Czech and Slovak Republics in the south and a coastline on the Baltic Sea in the north. Most of Poland has a very similar climate and the same sequence of weather throughout the year. Winter cold increases towards the east and in the southern mountains, while the coastlands of the Baltic Sea have slightly milder winters and cooler summers. Precipitation is well distributed around the year with a summer maximum of rain, often heavy and accompanied by thunder. Much of the winter precipitation is snow. Summer temperatures do not differ very much over the country. It rarely gets excessively hot but fine, sunny spells of weather and occasional droughts occur. Winters are distinctly cold and the length of really cold spells varies considerably from year to year.

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Climate Charts The following charts reflect the average climate as opposed to weather conditions. This means they serve only as general indicators of what can reasonably be expected. As your departure approaches you may wish to monitor current weather conditions online. Here is the official data from the weather observation stations closest to our destinations:

Average Daily High/Low Temperatures (°F), , & Precipitation

MONTH TALLINN, Estonia RIGA, Latvia Temp. % Relative Monthly Temp. % Relative Monthly High-Low Humidity Precip. High-Low Humidity Precip. °F (am-pm) (inches) °F (am-pm) (inches) JAN 30-20 87-85 2.0 29-22 87-83 1.3 FEB 29-19 87-80 1.3 29-21 86-78 0.9 MAR 36-24 88-73 1.4 37-28 87-70 1.0 APR 47-32 86-64 1.4 48-35 86-61 1.4 MAY 59-41 84-55 1.5 60-45 83-56 1.7 JUN 66-50 87-59 2.4 66-52 88-61 2.3 JUL 70-54 91-63 3.0 69-56 90-65 2.8 AUG 68-53 92-67 3.3 68-55 91-65 2.7 SEP 58-45 92-72 3.0 59-48 90-69 2.6 OCT 48-38 89-76 3.0 50-41 88-74 2.1 NOV 38-30 89-85 2.7 39-33 88-83 2.0 DEC 33-24 88-86 2.4 32-25 88-85 1.5

MONTH VILNIUS, Lithuania ST. PETERSBURG, Russia Temp. % Relative Monthly Temp. % Relative Monthly High-Low Humidity Precip. High-Low Humidity Precip. °F (avg) (inches) °F (am-pm) (inches) JAN 26-17 87 1.5 24-15 86-83 1.1 FEB 28-17 84 1.4 25-16 86-79 1.0 MAR 35-24 81 1.5 34-24 85-70 1.0 APR 50-33 76 1.8 46-33 83-59 1.2 MAY 64-44 75 2.0 60-44 80-51 1.7 JUN 69-50 71 2.9 66-52 82-57 2.2 JUL 71-53 77 3.1 70-56 87-61 2.6 AUG 69-51 82 3.0 66-54 90-64 3.0 SEP 60-46 84 2.6 56-45 90-69 2.4 OCT 50-37 89 2.0 45-37 87-75 2.0 NOV 37-30 89 2.0 35-28 87-83 1.6 DEC 30-23 87 1.9 28-20 87-85 1.4

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MONTH MOSCOW, Russia Warsaw, Poland (optional extension) (optional extension) Temp. % Relative Monthly Temp. % Relative Monthly High-Low Humidity Precip. High-Low Humidity Precip. (# °F (am-pm) (inches) °F (am-pm) of days) JAN 21-11 85-81 1.4 33-24 88-84 15 FEB 24-12 86-76 1.1 34-24 89-79 13 MAR 34-22 86-68 1.3 44-31 88-67 15 APR 49-34 85-57 1.5 54-37 83-58 15 MAY 63-44 84-51 2.0 65-47 79-56 15 JUN 69-51 87-57 2.6 70-52 80-60 16 JUL 71-55 90-60 3.2 73-55 83-60 15 AUG 68-52 93-63 2.8 73-54 86-58 13 SEP 57-43 93-67 2.3 64-47 91-66 14 OCT 45-33 89-73 2.0 54-40 92-75 15 NOV 32-24 88-82 1.7 42-33 91-85 16 DEC 25-16 86-84 1.7 36-27 90-87 15

MONTH Krakow, Poland (optional extension) Temp. High- % Relative Monthly Low Humidity Precip. (# °F (am-pm) of days) JAN 33-22 88-82 8 FEB 35-24 88-76 7 MAR 45-31 89-66 10 APR 54-38 85-58 14 MAY 64-46 84-58 15 JUN 69-52 85-61 16 JUL 71-55 86-60 14 AUG 71-54 90-61 13 SEP 64-48 92-67 13 OCT 55-40 92-71 13 NOV 42-32 90-82 13 DEC 36-26 89-84 12

Online Forecast Monthly temperature averages for the countries you will be visiting, plus a current 10-day forecast, are available online through the My Account feature of our website www.oattravel.com .

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6. Packing Just What You Need Your Luggage & Locks

Luggage Suggestions

Checked luggage One duffle bag or suitcase. Due to space limitations on our motor coaches, you are allowed one piece of checked luggage per person. Look for one with heavy nylon fabric, wrap-around handles, built-in wheels, and a heavy-duty lockable zipper. Please do not bring a rigid (plastic shell) suitcase.

Carry-on bag You are allowed one carry-on bag per person. We suggest a tote or small backpack that can be used as both a carry-on bag for your flight and to carry your daily necessities—water bottle, camera, etc—during driving excursions and walking trips.

TIP : Consider bringing a second, empty, lockable bag folded into your main suitcase, with a luggage tag and small lock. Use this to carry souvenirs home. Also, when traveling with a companion we recommend “cross-packing,” i.e., pack 2 outfits of your clothing in your companion’s luggage and vice-versa, in case one bag is delayed.

Locks To reduce the risk of damage to your luggage, either do not lock your bags when checking in for flights that originate in the U.S. or use TSA-approved locks. (These are locks that TSA screeners can open and relock with a special tool, avoiding damage to your luggage or lock if a physical inspection is required. Look for the words “TSA” or “TSA-approved” on the lock’s packaging.)

Outside of the U.S., we strongly recommend that you lock your luggage as a preventative measure against theft.

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LUGGAGE LIMITATIONS If you are taking the optional extension to Moscow or Poland, you will be taking a smaller regional flight in addition to the international flights. The luggage limits on these flights might be less than the average allowance for international flights. This means that even if your international airline offers a larger weight limit, you will need to pack according to the lower restrictions, as indicated in the following chart.

Number of Type of Luggage Weight Restrictions Special Size Restrictions? Pieces Main trip One Duffle bag or soft- Varies by Standard airline size: only checked bag sided suitcase. international airline. checked luggage should and one Please do not The current industry not exceed 62 linear inches carry-on per bring a hard-sided standard is 50lbs for (length+ width + depth) person (clamshell) checked luggage and and carry-on should not suitcase. 15lbs for carry-ons. exceed 45 linear inches Extension Same Same Checked luggage: Same to Moscow 44 lbs total or Poland Carry-on: 15 lbs total Remarks and Suggestions The “Dirty Harry” luggage rule: The limits in the chart above are based on the airlines’ published restrictions. The enforcement of luggage limits is a matter of airline corporate policy. It may not be consistent in all situations and may include random spot checks, especially for carry-on luggage. Airline penalties and fines, however, will probably be immediate when and if enforcement occurs. Before you choose to go above the airline’s published restrictions, you should first ask: Do I feel lucky? (And if the answer is , then you should accept that you might be charged a fee by the airlines.)

Remember, these limits can change. If the airline(s) notifies us of any changes, we will include an update in your Final Documents booklet. You should also confirm both luggage restrictions and luggage fees directly with your U.S./international airline a week or so before your departure . Doing so will keep you up-to-date on any last-minute changes, new security measures, or new fees. Most airlines are now charging fees for checked luggage, even on some international flights. These fees are not included in your trip price; they are payable directly to the airlines. For your convenience, we maintain a list of the toll-free numbers for the most common airlines on our website under the FAQ section.

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Clothing Suggestions

Functional Tips As you will experience a wide range of temperatures and weather conditions, we suggest several layers of clothing. If you like to hand-wash your clothes, look for fabrics that will dry out overnight. You can buy clothing designed especially for travel, with features like wrinkle-resistant fabric or built-in sun protection.

Footwear: You’ll be on your feet a lot during the trip, and walking over some rough and slippery surfaces. The soles of your shoes should offer good traction.

Style Hints Dress on our trip is functional and casual. You might want to bring one slightly dressier outfit for dining on your own at nicer restaurants, or for the Farewell Dinner, but that is completely up to you. During our adventure, we’ll visit local religious sites, many of which are Russian Orthodox. Russian Orthodox churches strongly prefer that visitors of both genders dress modestly. In this context, “modestly dressed” means you should be covered to the knees and you should cover your shoulders—no shorts, no skirts above the knee, no sleeveless shirts, and no low or revealing necklines.

In many Orthodox churches, local women will cover their hair with a scarf. Female travelers are not usually required to do this, but covering your hair inside the church would be a nice gesture of respect. (Bring a headscarf with you if you plan to do this.) Your Trip Leader will remind you about upcoming visits to these churches the day before so that you can plan your outfit accordingly. Traveler’s Checklists Did you know that the top two comments travelers have about packing are “I wish I had brought less” and “I wish I had thought to double-check the weather”? In an effort to help you bring less, we offer these lists, which have been compiled from suggestions by Trip Leaders and former travelers. The lists are only jumping-off points—they offer recommendations based on experience, but not requirements. You might also want to refer to the climate charts in this handbook or online weather forecasts before you pack. And finally, remember the Golden Rule of Packing Light—whatever you think you need at first—take half the clothes and twice the money.

Recommended Clothing Checklist ß Shirts: A mixture of short and long-sleeved shirts in a breathable fabric, like cotton or cotton-blend. Polo shirts are more versatile than T-shirts. ß Trousers and/or jeans: Comfortable and loose fitting is best. Avoid tight-fitting jeans for comfort and ease of movement. ß Light wool or fleece sweater; vest or another layer for warmth, like a warm jacket. ß Shoes and socks: Shoes should be comfortable walking/ running shoes or low-cut hiking shoes, with arch support. Bring at least a couple pairs of medium- to heavy-weight socks for hiking. ß Underwear and sleepwear ß Light rain jacket/windbreaker with hood ß Wide-brim sun hat ß Swimsuit for hotel pools or saunas ß At least one outfit for visiting a : Long trousers or a skirt that falls below the knees, and a shirt with sleeves; plus a headscarf (for female travelers).

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Seasonal Clothing Checklist You can expect summer daytime highs in the Baltics to be in the 60s and 70s °F and only occasionally reach or exceed 80 °F. Spring and fall will be significantly cooler, and winter is quite chilly with below- freezing temperatures. Wind is likely and rain is possible during any of our outdoor activities. ß For summer departures: If you wear shorts even in cool weather, you could bring a pair or two for summer departures. But if you view highs in the 60s as chilly, then you should bring long trousers. Sleeveless tops are socially acceptable, but considering the summer temperatures, you might not need/want them. ß For spring and early fall departures : Light sweater and/or a warm jacket, gloves, and a scarf ß For late fall and winter departures: Winter coat, hat, warm gloves, scarf, and long underwear

Other Essential Items ß Daily essentials: toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, hairbrush or comb, shaving items, deodorant, etc. Our hotels will provide the basics like soap and shampoo, but if you are sensitive to fragrances or new products, you may wish to bring your preferred brands. Most hotels do not provide a washcloth, so you may wish to pack one. ß Spare eyeglasses/contact lenses ß Sunglasses, 100% UV block ß Sunscreen, SPF 15 or stronger ß Insect repellent ß Cold-water hand-wash laundry soap such as Woolite and plastic hang-up clothespins ß Light folding umbrella ß Photocopies of passport, air ticket, credit cards ß Moisturizer and sun-blocking lip balm ß Packets of pocket-size tissues or small roll of toilet paper ß Moist towelettes (not individual packets) and/or anti-bacterial "water-free" hand cleanser ß Water bottle (narrow-mouth) ß Electrical converter & plug adapter: see "A Word about Electricity" for details

Medicines & First Aid Gear ß Your own prescription medicines ß Travel first aid kit: Band-Aids, headache and pain relief, laxatives and anti-diarrhea tablets, something for upset stomach. Maybe a cold remedy, moleskin pads, antibiotic cream, or allergy medication. ß An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness ß Optional: A strong prescription pain medication for rare emergency purposes ß Optional: motion sickness medication (for long bus rides, if you are prone to motion sickness)

TIP : The State Department says that if you are bringing prescription medications into Russia, they recommend carrying a copy of your valid U.S. prescription. That way, if the Russian customs officials ask, you have proof that your prescription medication was lawfully obtained in the United States.

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Optional Gear (These are items that other travelers have suggested might be useful—not requirements. The extra spaces at the end are for you to add whatever you don’t want to forget.) ß Travel alarm or travel watch with alarm ß Folding walking staff, sold in most camping stores (preferably rubber-tipped) ß Hanging toiletry bag (with hook to hang on doorknob and pockets to organize items) ß Basic sewing kit ß Reading materials ß Travel journal/note pad and pens ß Phrase book ß Pocket-size calculator for exchange rates ß ______ß ______ß ______ß ______

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A Word about Electricity When traveling overseas, there are a few differences to keep in mind about electricity. First, the voltage is usually different. Second, the plugs might not be the same shape. Lastly, the availability of power can vary.

Voltage : Electricity in the Baltics, Russia, and Poland is generally 220 volts. In the U.S. it is 110 volts. Most of the things a traveler will want to plug in—battery chargers, MP3 players, tablets or computers— can run off both 110 and 220. But you should check the item or the owner’s guide first to confirm this before you plug it in. If you have something that needs 110 volts—like a shaver or a hairdryer—you can bring a transformer to change the current. (But transformers tend to burn out, so it might be better to leave whatever it is at home.)

Plugs : The shape of plugs will vary from country to country, and sometimes even within a country depending on when that building was built. Different plug shapes are named by letters of the alphabet— Type A, Type B, and so on. Standard U.S. plugs are Type A and Type B. Here is the list of plugs for the countries on this trip:

• Overall, C and F plugs are by far the most common plugs in these regions. Type C plugs will fit into a F sockets. You may find some Type E plugs on the optional extension to Poland.

To plug something from the U.S. into a C or F socket you’ll need an adapter that fits between the plug and the socket. Because there are multiple plug types in this region, it may be easier to purchase an all-in- one, universal adapter/converter combo. Versatile and lightweight, these can usually be found at your local electronics goods or hardware stores. Sometimes you can buy them at large retailers too, like Target or Walmart. If you forget to bring an adapter, you might also find them for sale at the airport when you arrive at your destination.

Availability: Barring the occasional and unpredictable power outage, electricity is as readily available on this adventure as it is in the U.S.

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7. Learn about Your Destinations

We encourage you to start learning about your destinations before your trip. Even a small amount of background reading can help you make sense of the kaleidoscope of facts and impressions that will come your way. Having some knowledge in advance can complement and enrich what you can learn from your resident Trip Leader.

Estonia at a Glance

Facts & figures • Area: 17,462 square miles • Capital: Tallinn • Language: Estonian is the , with some Russian, Ukrainian, and Finnish also spoken. • Location: Estonia is bordered on the east by Russia and on the west by the Baltic Sea. To the south is Latvia and to the north is the Gulf of Finland. Estonia has numerous lakes and and many rivers, most of which drain northward into the Gulf of Finland or eastward into Lake Peipus. • Population (2014 estimate): 1,257,921 • : Evangelical Lutheran 78%, Russian Orthodox and Estonian Orthodox 19%; also represented are Baptist, Methodist, Seventh-Day Adventist, Roman Catholic, Pentecostal, Word of Life, and Jewish. • Time zone: Estonia is 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, 7 hours ahead of Eastern Time. The country observes daylight savings time from late March until late September.

Historical Overview Early History The ancestors of today’s arrived in the area over 5000 years ago. They were a Finno-Ugric people related to others who populated Finland, Lapland, and , with societies based on hunting and nature-centered religions. The Romans were most likely the first to give Estonia its name—Tacitus mentions Aestii in his writings in the 1st century AD. However, it appears that Estonia was influenced by the Romans through intermediate cultures rather than controlled by them. Later the Vikings of the 9th and 10th centuries also seemed to bypass Estonia in their conquests; although present in the area, they were much more interested in trade routes to Kiev.

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Northern Crusade But by the end of the 12th century, Estonia’s days of being overlooked by the rest of Europe were unfortunately at an end. Until this point many locals had practiced a form of that worshipped the natural world. (Estonians and Finns were both described by the Scandinavians as experts of wind- magic, a useful skill to know in a maritime society.) In 1193 Pope Celestine III called for a crusade against the northern pagans, and as one of the last remaining unconverted countries, Estonia became a target. Soon the German “Knights of the Sword” had captured nearby Riga (in present-day Latvia) and were using it as a base from which to raid Estonia. Despite setbacks like the German victory at the castle of Otepaa in 1208, and the fact that Danish troops also joined in the fight against them, the Estonians managed to keep the fight going for nearly 30 years. By the mid- Estonia was divided between the Danish-controlled north and the German-controlled south, and not long afterwards the monastic orders began arriving and the first Cathedrals were built.

During the following three hundred years the conquered Estonians continued to practice many of their own pagan rituals in secret, to speak their own language, and to occasionally rebel against the Danish and the . As part of the wider Christian Europe (in name at least) the Cathedrals and churches acted as centers of learning and trade. Soon towns and even small cities began to grow—the country’s capital, Tallinn dates from about this time. (The name “Tallinn” is derived from the Estonian words Taani linn meaning “Danish town”.) Tallinn itself gained a measure of importance under the new rulers when it joined the , an influential medieval trade guild.

The The German-speaking aristocracy would largely control (today’s Estonia and Latvia) until the mid-, when Estonia once again came to the attention of a powerful pan-European force—. As his Tatar swept through the Baltics, other threatened nations sought to stop his onward momentum by joining in what was later named the “Livonian War”. Poland, Demark, and all sent reinforcements and troops. In the end Sweden retained power in Estonia, and governed there from the late 16th through the 17th centuries, a time later remembered as a prosperous golden age.

It was under Swedish rule that modern Estonia was united as a single country, that maritime trade prospered, and that the first Estonian-language books were printed. Sadly, the golden era was short-lived. By 1700 the defeated nations—, Poland, and Russia—were once again fighting for control of the lands lost in the Livonian War. Between the fighting on all sides, a huge famine, and an outbreak of the plague, Sweden could not hold Estonia, which fell to Russia.

Russian Rule and Early Independence Czarist Russia then held sway for the next 200 years, and in that time Estonia saw Russian rulers that ranged from the strict (Peter I) to the relatively enlightened (Catherine the Great) to the gentle but clueless (Nicolas II). In WWI, when Estonian men were drafted to fight for Russia, many went willingly under the belief that if Russia won, Estonia would be granted independence as a reward. It wasn’t until the full fervor of the that Estonia felt confident enough to declare its own independence on February 24th, 1918. Russia resisted at first, but eventually gave in to the combined efforts of Estonia, Britain, Finland, Denmark, and Sweden. On February 2nd, 1920 Russia signed the Peace Treaty and thereby ceded their claims to Estonia.

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Following independence, the Estonian economy developed rapidly, improved markedly, and new books were printed at an astonishing rate. In 1925 a special guarantee of cultural for minority groups (such as the Jewish population) was passed into law—a unique legal protection that no other Eastern European country offered. But there was always the threat of a Bolshevik coup, and in 1934 Kostantin Pats, the head of the official government, seized power (supposedly to protect it against the Bolsheviks). This so-called “era of silence” lasted for four years, during which time the country was ruled by decree and no other political parties were allowed to meet.

World War II and the Soviet Era At the start of WWII and Russia negotiated a non-aggression pact that carved up most of ; Estonia was to go to Russia. This was despite the fact that Estonia had publicly declared itself neutral. After much pressure, a sham revolution, and the arrest of President Pats, Russia generously accepted Estonia’s “request” to join the in 1940. As a result, tens of thousands of Estonians were suddenly conscripted into the Russian army or hauled away to labor camps. So perhaps it is not so surprising that when Germany first pushed the back, the Estonians initially welcomed the German troops. When it soon became apparent that life under the Germans would be more of the same— conscriptions and citizens being hauled away in the night—many Estonians chose to live in exile in Finland. (In time, the displaced Estonian community grew large enough to have their own special unit of 3,400 fighters in the Finnish army.)

With the end of the war and the return of the Russians, the government-in-exile fled to Sweden, where it remained until 1992. During this time Estonia was forcibly incorporated into the Soviet Union. There was some armed resistance, notably by the Metsavennad (the Brothers), who waged a small-scale guerrilla war on the occupying forces. Intriguingly one of Estonia’s most powerful acts of resistance was entirely peaceful—a song festival held in protest 1988, which drew international attention to the plight of the Baltics. Finally in 1991, Estonia gained its independence from Russia for the second time.

Modern Independence Modern, post-independence Estonia has largely focused on undoing the economic damage of the Soviet Era. Yet the country’s success in this arena is clear. In 2004, Estonia was financially stable enough to join both NATO and . The expansive economic growth from 2000 to 2007 was curtailed somewhat by the economic downturn in 2008, but the country was still able to meet the goal of switching to the Euro, which it did in 2011

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Latvia at a Glance Facts & Figures • Area: 24,938 square miles • Capital: Riga • Languages : Latvian is the official language; Russian and Lithuanian are also spoken. • Ethnicities: Latvian 59.3%, Russian 27.8%, Belarusian 3.6%, Ukrainian 2.5%, Polish 2.4%, Lithuanian 1.3%, other 3.1% • Location: Latvia is bordered by Estonia, Lithuania, Russia, , and the Baltic Sea. • Geography: Riga, the Latvian capital, is often described as a cultural capital for the entire Baltic region and is home to some of the most elegant and continental architecture in the Baltics. Most of Latvia is rich flat plain, but due to the high water table, only about 28% is arable. Perhaps this explains why nearly 2/3 of the Latvian population is urban. • Population: 2,165, 165 (July 2014 Estimate) • Religions: Lutheran 19.6%, Orthodox 15.3%, other Christian 1%, other 0.4%, unspecified 63.7% • Time Zone: Latvia is seven hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 1pm in Riga.

Historical Overview Early History Although Latvia was probably first settled in the Age, the ancestors of modern did not arrive in the region until roughly 2000 BCE. Unlike the early Estonians, who were a Finno-Ugric people, the early Latvians were a Balt people that migrated north from Belarus. (Thus right from the start, there was a cultural and linguistic difference between the Estonians and the Latvians.) In the Classical Age Latvia became known for its amber, and soon was at the heart of a vast Amber Road, a trade route that spread to and .

By 1000 AD the Latvians had developed into four distinct tribes— , the Latgals, the , and the Cours—each with its own territory. The Selonians and Semigallians were mostly farmers, while the Cours were nicknamed the “Baltic Vikings”. But it was the largest and most powerful tribe, the Latgals, whose territory was the first area to be referred to as “Latvia”. The four tribes may have been very different in livelihood, but all of them similar in that they practiced some form of pagan . By the early , this drew the attention of Christian Europe, and in 1190 missionaries began arriving from the south.

Northern Crusade At first their mission of conversion seemed to go well. Many of the local population submitted to baptism, but only to return to their pagan rituals later (according to some sources, many of newly baptized would later jump back into the water to wash away the Christian blessing). Soon Pope Celestine III called for a crusade against the northern pagans, and in 1201 the German “Knights of the Sword” invaded Latvia and founded Riga, which they used as a base for action in Livonia (today’s Latvia and Estonia).

Colonists from Germany followed, often choosing to settle in Riga or nearby so that the knights might protect them. With this influx of people came trade, and Riga developed rapidly. In 1282 the city was included in the Hanseatic League, an influential medieval trade guild. Riga, with its connections to Germany and its proximity to Russia became a crossroads for trade between the two and prospered for nearly 300 years.

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The Livonian War Unfortunately the rise of Riga meant that the land became a valuable prize in the eyes of other nations. Sweden, Poland, and Russia all tried to capture parts of Livonia, especially in the wake of the assaults by Ivan the Terrible in the late 1500s. The general competition between nations and the fear of Ivan’s advance touched off a 24-year conflict, known as the Livonian War, which lasted until 1582. By the war’s end Livonia had been carved up between the Swedes, in present-day Estonia and Riga, and the , in the rest of modern Latvia.

Russian Rule and Early Independence In less than 150 years the Polish rule was upended by a Russian invasion in 1700. By 1721 Russia had secured Latvia, and for the next 200 years it was ruled by the Czars. In response to this forced integration into the , many locals began to identify themselves as “Latvians” for the first time (as opposed to identifying as a part of a feudal state or a part of a foreign empire). The movement towards a national identity was largely lead by the so-called “Young Latvians” from the 1850s through the 1880s. Although largely a literary and cultural movement, their work influenced politicians and championed a greater independence for Latvia.

Ultimately it was the chaos of WWI and the Russian Revolution that lead to an independent Latvia. The declaration of their independence on November 18th, 1918 was meet with almost immediate retaliation by the Russians, who invaded in December of the same year. With the help of Estonia and Poland, Latvia was able to force Russia back and maintain their independence. On August 11th, 1920 Russia signed the Treaty of Riga and thereby ceded their claims to Latvia. Over the next few , Latvia’s economy boomed and in the 1930s Latvians could boast one of Europe’s highest standards of living.

World War II and the Soviet Era In 1939 Russia and Germany secretly agreed to a non-aggression pact that carved up sections of Europe into spheres of influence. Like Estonia, Latvia fell to into the Russia sphere. Thus Latvia began WWII under Russian occupation, but once Germany and Russia were actively fighting each other, Latvia was occupied by the Germans. In some ways, who was in charge didn’t make a difference to the average Latvian because both powers used forced conscriptions, deportations, and executions against the local population.

Near the end of the war, the Russians returned to “rescue” Latvia by driving out the Germans—but not to set up an independent nation. Instead Latvia became a part of the Soviet USSR. Despite the impositions from Moscow and the dismal treatment of the average Latvian, there were few examples of armed resistance or organized protests. Many Latvians were fearful of falling prey to the mass arrests or deportations to , and for good reason—under Soviet rule over 120,000 Latvians were imprisoned or deported. The first public protest against the Soviet regime wasn’t until June 14th, 1987. Two years later, one of the most extraordinary Baltic protests occurred on August 23rd, 1989 when Latvia was the center of a human chain of two million Latvians, Estonians, and .

Modern Independence On August 21st 1991, Latvia once again declared independence. Democratic elections were held for the first time in 70 years in 1993. The first years of independence were difficult, yet Latvia reached major milestones such as joining the EU and NATO in short order. Many Latvians today credit the leadership of Vaira Vike-Friberga, the Baltics first female , who was president of Latvia from 1999 to 2007.

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Lithuania at a Glance

Facts & Figures • Area : 25,213 square miles • Capital: Vilnius • Languages: Lithuanian (official), Russian, and Polish. • Ethnicities : Lithuanian 83.4%, Polish 6.7%, Russian 6.3%, other or unspecified 3.6% • Location: Lithuania is bordered by Belarus, Latvia, Russia, and Poland. • Geography: Lithuania is the largest and most populous of the three , but only has about 55 miles of coastline. The land is fertile, low-lying, and in many places covered with thick pine forests or sparkling lakes. The country’s capital, Vilnius, is known for beauty, artists, and of course, artists’ hangouts—cafes and bars. • Population: 3,505,738 (July 2014 Estimate) • Religions: Roman Catholic 79%, Russian Orthodox 4.1%, Protestant 1.9%, other or unspecified 5.5%, none 9.5% • Time Zone: Lithuania is seven hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 1pm in Vilnius.

Historical Overview Early History Lithuania’s history begins in the Stone Age, when two different groups arrived, one from modern Poland and one from modern Denmark. Excavations have shown that these groups were distinct and separate cultures that used different tools and began farming at different times. The one thing both groups had in common was that in about 2000 BCE they were overrun in by a Balt people, the ancestors of modern Lithuanians. Like Latvia to the north, Lithuania became part of the Amber Road and traded with Greece and Roman during the classical period.

By 1009 AD Lithuania was making a name for itself in the outside world—literally. 1009 marks the first written mention of Lituae (the for “Lithuania”). But the mention wasn’t a flattering one, as it was a record of an attack against one St Bruno, who was struck on the head and killed for attempting to convert the pagan king to . This might seem an extreme response to an early missionary, but the Lithuanians were suspicious not only of the new religion, but also of a possible spy from the other side. By this time, the original had split into two tribal groups, the and the Aukstaitijas, and neither wanted to tip the balance of power.

Northern Crusade In the late-1100s, Christian Europe began to try to convert the region in earnest. In 1193 Pope Celestine III called for a crusade against the northern pagans, which resulted in the seizure of Livonia (today’s Estonia and Latvia) by German crusader knights and Danish troops. By this time, the Lithuanian leader had managed to unite the two Lithuanian tribes under his authority. He cleverly sought to avoid the crusaders by converting to Catholicism, but the gamble did not pay off for long. He was assassinated in 1263 by nobles who wished to remain pagan. Subsequent leaders continued to hold a united Lithuania, but could not always hold off the crusader orders that threatened to descend from Riga (in modern Latvia).

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Finally, in search of the protection an alliance would afford, Grand Duke Jogaila married Crown Princess Jadwiga of Poland in 1386. Jogaila converted to Christianity and was named to King of Poland in addition to Grand Duke of Lithuania, beginning an alliance that was to last 400 years. Most of the Grand Duke’s tribe, the Aukstaitijas, formally converted to Christianity a year later and the Samogitians followed suite in 1413. (Because the Samogitians did not formally convert until the 1400s, Lithuania is often cited as the last European country to become Christian.)

Lithuanian-Polish Alliance and Commonwealth It was in the 1400s that Lithuania began a golden age of prosperity and expansion. Unlike Estonia and Latvia, which were under the control of foreign powers such as Germany, Lithuania was a partner with Poland. Together the two nations stretched their reach east and south and created an empire that included parts of modern Russia, , and . The wealth from this empire allowed the , Vilnius to grow to a population of over 25,000 in the 16th century, which at the time made it one of Europe’s larger cities.

The wealth of the empire also allowed for a cultural and artistic flowering. It was during these years that the was founded, experienced a , and Baroque and churches were constructed throughout Vilnius.

With the outbreak of the Livonian War in 1558, Poland and Lithuania became embroiled in the fighting to their north, eventually gaining parts of modern Latvia. During the height of the conflict, the two countries decided to formalize their alliance with the 1569 Union of . The treaty not only re-affirmed the private royal ties between Lithuania and Poland, but also formed a new legal identity; the Commonwealth. Polish was eventually adopted as the official language, but as a , Lithuania continued to keep its own laws, army, and treasury.

Russian Rule and Early Independence Unfortunately for the Commonwealth, their territories and wealth did not go unnoticed by Russia. At first Russia was content to snatch a few lands hear and there, but by 1772 the Commonwealth was weakened enough that Russia simply partitioned it. Lithuania was now reduced from a partner to a subordinate, and a rebellious one at that. When ’s troops attacked Russia in 1812 they were enthusiastically supported, and when the Polish revolted in 1830 the Lithuanians were with them. In an attempt to divide- and-conquer, Russia began to crack down on all aspects of Polish heritage in Lithuania—books could only be printed using the Cyrillic alphabet, Polish was not allowed to be spoken, Catholic churches were closed and replaced with Russian orthodox ones.

Just as with the other Baltic states, it was WWI that first led to independence. But unlike Latvia or Estonia, Lithuania initially declared independence from Germany , not Russia, as it was occupied during the war. After Germany surrendered to the Allies, Poland was eager to re-unite with Lithuania, or at least re-claim Vilnius. Russia was equally eager to recapture the entire country. Soon a tug-of-war broke out, and as a result Vilnius and a small surrounding area was ceded to Poland, but the rest of the country was prey to the Russian army. In an attempt to stem Russia’s possible control of the rest of Lithuania, the local government staged a coup d’etat in 1926 and installed an authoritarian leader, Antans Smetona, who would remain in power until 1940.

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World War II and the Soviet Era In 1939 Russia and Germany secretly signed the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact, which divided Europe into spheres of influence in exchange for non-aggression. Lithuania originally was to go to the Germans, but was later re-assigned to the Russia sphere. As the war escalated, Russia first used Vilnius, and then the rest of the country to their station troops against the advancing German line. With the German conquest of Poland and the arrival of 150,000 Russian soldiers in 1940, Lithuania became the front line between the two giant powers. Although briefly occupied by the Nazis, the country was reclaimed by the Russians shortly before peace was declared. Afterwards it was absorbed into the USSR.

The Lithuanians immediately tried to resist. Armed guerilla fighters, known as “Forest Brothers” began rebelling against the Soviets as early as 1944. Sadly, this only seemed to result in a particularly oppressive retaliation—between 1944 and 1952 over 29,923 families were deported to Siberia. It wasn’t until the 1989 elections that a Lithuanian party won the majority of seats in the USSR’s Congress; not long afterward the Lithuanian Communist Party split off from the USSR Communist Party.

Modern Independence On March 11th, 1990, Lithuania was declared an independent republic. The Soviets responded with an economic blockade and a small-scale storming of the Vilnius TV , but eventually gave in on September 6th, 1991. In a surprising move, the first parliamentary elections in 1992 resulted in a win for the former Lithuanian Communist Party (now called the Democratic Labor Party). The early years of independence saw rising inflation and other economic problems, mostly to do with replacing the Russian currency/coupon system with a national currency. Lithuania officially changed its currency to the euro in 2015.

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Russia at a Glance

Facts & Figures • Area: 6,601,670 square miles, the largest country on Earth • Capital: Moscow • Language: Russian. • Location: Russia spans two , with the part west of the Urals considered to be in Europe while the rest of the country is in Asia. On its west, Russia is bordered by , Finland, Estonia, Latvia, Belarus, Ukraine, and the . On the south, the Russian border touches , , the Caspian Sea, , , and . The North Pacific Ocean defines Russia’s eastern edge, and the Arctic Ocean lies to Russia’s north. • Population (2014 estimate): 142,470,272 • Religion: Russian Orthodox 15-20%, Muslim 10-15%, other Christian ~2% • Time zone: From April through most of September, Moscow and St. Petersburg are 8 hours ahead of U.S. Eastern Daylight Time, 11 hours ahead of U.S. Pacific Daylight Time.

Historical Overview Early History The term "Rhos", or "Rus", first came to be applied to the Varangians and later also to the Slavs who peopled the region currently known as Russia in the 10th to 11th centuries. Like many other parts of Eurasia, these territories were overrun by the Mongol invaders, who formed the state of Golden Horde which would pillage the Russian for over three centuries. Later known as the , they ruled the southern and central expanses of present-day Russia, while the territories of present-day Ukraine and Belarus were incorporated into the Grand and Poland, thus dividing the Russian people in the north from the and Ukrainians in the west. This long-lasting nomadic rule retarded the country's economic and social development.

Muscovy While still under the domain of the Mongols and with their connivance, the duchy of Moscow began to assert its influence in Western Russia in the early 14th century. Assisted by the Russian Orthodox Church, Muscovy inflicted a defeat on the Mongols in the Battle of Kulikovo (1389). Ivan the Great (ruled 1456-1505) eventually tossed off the control of the invaders, consolidated surrounding areas under Moscow's dominion and first took the title "grand duke of all the ". In the beginning of the 16th century the Russian state set the national goal to return all Russian territories lost as a result of the Mongolian invasion and to protect the southern borderland against attacks of Crimean Tatars and other .

In 1547, Ivan the Terrible was officially crowned the first of Russia. During his long reign, Ivan annexed the Muslim polities along the Volga River and transformed Russia into a multiethnic and multiconfessional state. By the end of the century, Russian established the first settlements in Western Siberia. The colonization of the Asian territories was largely peaceful, in sharp contrast to the build-up of other colonial empires of the time.

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Imperial Russia (ruled in 1689-1725) after defeating Sweden in the , founded a new capital, Petersburg. Peter succeeded in bringing ideas and culture from to a severely underdeveloped Russia. After his reforms, Russia emerged as a major European power.

Catherine the Great, ruling from 1762 to 1796, continued efforts at establishing Russia as one of the great powers of Europe. In 1812, having gathered nearly half a million soldiers from , as well as from all of its conquered states in Europe, Napoleon invaded Russia but, after taking Moscow, was forced to retreat back to Europe. Almost 90% of the invading forces died as a result of on-going battles with the Russian army, guerillas and winter weather. The Russian armies ended their pursuit of the enemy by taking his capital, .

The officers of the Napoleonic brought back to Russia the ideas of liberalism and even attempted to curtail the tsar's powers during the abortive (1825), which was followed by several decades of political repression. Another result of the Napoleonic wars was the incorporation of Bessarabia, Finland, and Congress Poland into the Russian Empire.

The perseverence of Russian and the conservative policies of impeded the development of Imperial Russia in the mid-19th century. As a result, the country was defeated in the Crimean War, 1853–1856, by an alliance of major European powers, including Britain, France, Ottoman Empire, and Piedmont-Sardinia. Nicholas's successor Alexander II (1855–1881) was forced to undertake a series of comprehensive reforms and issued a decree abolishing serfdom in 1861. The Great Reforms of Alexander's reign spurred increasingly rapid capitalist development and Sergei Witte's attempts at industrialization.

The failure of agrarian reforms and suppression of the growing liberal were continuing problems however. Repeated devastating defeats of the Russian army in the Russo-Japanese War and and the resultant deterioration of the economy led to widespread rioting in the major cities of the Russian Empire and to the overthrow in 1917 of the Romanovs.

At the close of the Russian Revolution of 1917, a Marxist political faction called the Bolsheviks seized power in Petrograd and Moscow under the leadership of . The Bolsheviks changed their name to the Communist Party. A bloody civil war ensued, pitting the Bolsheviks' against a loose of anti-socialist monarchist and bourgeois forces known as the White Army. The Red Army triumphed, and the Soviet Union was formed in 1922.

Russia as part of the Soviet Union The Soviet Union was meant to be a transnational worker's state free from . The concept of Russia as a separate national entity was therefore not emphasized in the early Soviet Union. Although Russian institutions and cities certainly remained dominant, many non-Russians participated in the new government at all levels. One of these was a Georgian named . A brief power struggle ensued after Lenin's death in 1924. Stalin gradually eroded the various checks and balances which had been designed into the Soviet political system and assumed dictatorial power by the end of the decade. Leon Trotsky and almost all other “Old Bolsheviks” from the time of the Revolution were killed or exiled. As the 1930s began, Stalin launched the Great Purges, a massive series of political repressions. Millions of people whom Stalin and local authorities suspected of being a threat to their power were executed or exiled to labor camps in remote areas of Siberia.

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Stalin forced rapid industrialization of the largely rural country and collectivization of its agriculture. Most economic output was immediately diverted to establishing . Civilian industry was modernized and heavy weapon were established. The plan worked, in some sense, as the Soviet Union successfully transformed from an agrarian economy to a major industrial powerhouse in an unbelievably short span of time, but widespread misery and famine ensued for many millions of people as a result of the severe economic upheaval.

In 1936 the USSR was in strong opposition to , and supported the republicans in who struggled against German and Italian troops. However, in 1938 Germany and the other major European powers signed the treaty. Germany then divided Czechoslovakia with Poland. The Soviet government, afraid of a German attack on the USSR, began diplomatic maneuvers. In 1939 after Poland's refusal to participate in any measures of collective deterrence the USSR signed the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact with Nazi Germany which in effect stated that each country would occupy a portion of Poland, which they did, thus obliterating the independent state of Poland.

In June 17, 1940, the Red Army occupied the whole territory of Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania, and installed new, pro-Soviet governments in all three countries. Following elections, in which only pro- communist candidates were allowed to run, the newly elected parliaments of the three countries formally applied to join USSR in August 1940.

Germany and its allies invaded the Soviet Union in 1941. Although the had considerable success in the early stages of the campaign, they suffered defeat when they reached the outskirts of Moscow. The Red Army then stopped the Nazi offensive at the Battle of Stalingrad in 1943, which became the decisive turning point for Germany's fortunes in the war. The Soviets drove through Eastern Europe and captured before Germany surrendered in 1945. During the war the Soviet Union lost more than 27 million citizens (including eighteen million civilians).

Although ravaged by the war, the Soviet Union emerged from the conflict as an acknowledged . The Red Army occupied Eastern Europe after the war, including the eastern half of Germany. Stalin installed loyal communist governments in these satellite states.

The Soviet Union consolidated its hold on Eastern Europe. The United States helped the Western European countries establish democracies, and both countries sought to achieve economic, political, and ideological dominance over the Third World. The ensuing struggle became known as the Cold War. Stalin died in early 1953 presumably without leaving any instructions for the selection of a successor. His closest associates officially decided to rule the Soviet Union jointly, but the secret police chief Lavrenty Beria appeared poised to seize dictatorial control. General Secretary Nikita Khrushchev and other leading politicians organized an anti-Beria alliance and staged a coup d'état. Beria was arrested in June of 1953 and executed later that year; Khrushchev became the undisputed leader of the USSR.

Under Khrushchev, the Soviet Union launched the world's first artificial satellite, Sputni 1, and the Soviet cosmonaut became the first person to orbit the Earth. Khrushchev's reforms in agriculture and administration, however, were generally unproductive, and foreign policy toward China and the United States suffered reverses, notably the Cuban Missile Crisis, when he began installing nuclear missiles in Cuba (after the United States installed Jupiter missiles in which nearly provoked a war with the Soviet Union).

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Following the ousting of Khrushchev, another period of rule by collective leadership ensued, lasting until Leonid Brezhnev established himself in the early 1970s as the pre-eminent figure in Soviet political life. Brezhnev is frequently derided by historians for stagnating the development of the Soviet Union. In contrast to the revolutionary spirit that accompanied the birth of the Soviet Union, the prevailing mood of the Soviet leadership at the time of Brezhnev's death in 1982 was one of aversion to change.

In the mid 1980s, the reform-minded came to power. He introduced the policies of glasnost (openness) and perestroika (restructuring), in an attempt to modernize Soviet . Glasnost meant that the harsh restrictions on free speech that had characterized most of the Soviet Union's existence were removed, and open political discourse and criticism of the government became possible again. Perestroika meant sweeping economic reforms designed to decentralize the planning of the Soviet economy. However, his initiatives provoked strong resentment amongst conservative elements of the government, and an unsuccessful military coup that attempted to remove Gorbachev from power instead led to the collapse of the Soviet Union. Boris Yeltsin came to power and declared the end of exclusive Communist rule. The USSR splintered into fifteen independent republics, and was officially dissolved in December of 1991.

Post-Soviet Russia Prior to the dissolution of the Soviet Union, Boris Yeltsin had been elected President of Russia in June 1991 in the first direct presidential election in Russian history. After the disintegration of the USSR, the Russian economy went through a crisis. Russia took up the responsibility for settling the USSR's external debts, even though its population made up just half of the population of the USSR at the time of its dissolution. The largest state enterprises (petroleum, , and the like) were controversially privatized for the small sum of $US 600 million, far less than they were worth, while the majority of population plunged into poverty.

Yeltsin disbanded the Supreme Soviet and the Congress of People's Deputies by decree, which was illegal under the constitution. On the same day there was a military showdown, the Russian constitutional crisis of 1993. With military help, Yeltsin held control. The conflict resulted in a number of civilian casualties, but was resolved in Yeltsin's favor. Elections were held and the current Constitution of the Russian Federation was adopted on December 12, 1993.

Vladimir Putin was elected in 2000. Although President Putin is still the most popular Russian politician, with a 70% approval rating, his policies raised serious concerns about civil society and human rights in Russia. The West and particularly the United States expressed growing worries about the state control of the Russian media through Kremlin-friendly companies, government influence on elections, and law enforcement abuses.

At the same time, high oil prices and growing internal demand boosted Russian economic growth, stimulating significant economic expansion abroad and helping to finance increased military spending. Putin's presidency has shown improvements in the Russian standard of living, as opposed to the . Even with these economic improvements, the government is criticized for lack of will to fight wide- spread crime and corruption and to renovate deteriorated urban infrastructure throughout the country. Despite the economic distress and decreased military funding following the fall of the Soviet Union, the country retains its large weapons and especially nuclear weapons arsenal.

In March of 2008 Russian Dmitry Medvedev was chosen as the President of Russia. During this period, Vladimir Putin served as Prime Minister. In March of 2012, Putin was elected to a third term as president.

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Poland at a Glance

Facts & Figures • Area: 120,728 square miles • Capital: Warsaw • Government: Republic • Language: Polish is the official language. It is a Slavonic language. Unlike Russian, it uses the familiar Roman alphabet, but with many additional accents. German, Russian, English, and French are spoken by most members of the travel industry and in hotels. • Location: Situated in the heart of Europe, Poland’s low-lying plains extend from the Baltic shore in the north to the Tatra Mountains on its southern border with the and Slovakia. To the east of the Polish border are Lithuania, Belarus, and the Ukraine; to the west is Germany. • Population (2014 estimate): 38,346,279 • Religion: Roman Catholic 90%, Eastern Orthodox 1.3%, Protestant 0.3%, other 8.4% • Time zone: The time in Poland is six hours ahead of Eastern Time in : when it is 12 noon in New York, it is 6 pm in Warsaw and Krakow.

Historical Overview Polish history can be traced back to the Piast dynasty, a medieval monarchy which brought Christianity to the region in 966 AD. During a time of territorial expansion known as the period, Poland developed close relations with the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, and formed the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth in 1569.

The Commonwealth evolved into a noble democracy but suffered greatly in the mid-17 th century when war struck. Unfortunately, the Commonwealth weakened to the point that it was eventually completely dissolved by surrounding forces including the Russian Empire, the Kingdom of and the Austrian . Because of this dark period, Poland no longer existed as an independent nation.

It wasn’t until 1918 that an independent Polish state came back into existence. The end of World War I signified the beginning of the , when Poland’s imperial powers were conquered. But, it still was not an easy road for Poland. The Second Republic only lasted a little more than twenty years before it was again destroyed, this time by Nazi Germany during the onset of World War II. The Nazi occupation targeted Polish citizens as one of the groups that needed to be exterminated.

Despite the gruesome killing of millions of Polish people, the government continues to function behind the scenes and actually ended up serving a major role in the Allied victory and the end of World War II. With the defeat of Nazi Germany and the advancement of the Soviet Red Army, Poland became a Soviet satellite country.

The shift from communism towards the Poland we know today took some time. It wouldn’t be until the late 1980’s that worker’s revolts and an overwhelming drive for social reforms would begin steering the country away from Soviet rule. Eventually, the resulting modern Polish state transitioned relatively peacefully from communism to .

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Cultural Interaction

Language Barrier You can have some great “conversations” with local people who do not speak English, even if you don’t speak a word of the local language. Indeed, this non-verbal communication can be a highly rewarding part of travel. To break the ice, bring along some family photographs, or a few postcards of your hometown. If you want to meet kids, bring a puppet or other interactive toy. Your Trip Leader can help get the ball rolling.

Our Trip Leaders have remarked that personal space seems to be bigger in the Baltics than the U.S., especially in the countryside. Kissing, hugging, and touching in general is usually not done unless you know the other person.

Customer Service That the Soviet era left its mark on the Baltics and Russia is understandable and expected. But what might surprise you is its effect on customer service standards, even today. A famous story illustrates this influence: when the first McDonald’s opened in Moscow, the new employees were given extensive customer service training, to which one of the puzzled newcomers asked “Why do we have to be so nice to the customers? After all, we have the hamburgers and they don’t!”

This is not to say that you won’t experience genuine kindness and good service while in the Baltics and Russia, but rather that you should be prepared—service in restaurants and shops may not be what you expect.

Taking Photographs The etiquette of photographing most people in the countries on your itinerary is about the same as it would be on the streets of your hometown. You need permission to take a close-up, but not for a crowd scene. If you want to shoot a great portrait, show interest in your subject, try to have a bit of social interaction first. Then use sign language to inquire if a picture is OK. Your Trip Leader can help.

Truth behind the stereotypes—Russia Despite the many years of closer understanding between the U.S. and Russia, many of the current stereotypes of Russian society are holdovers from the Cold War era. Although Russians (like many Europeans) may be critical of the U.S. government, this does not mean that Russians dislike the American people; in fact, surveys reveal that many Russians aspire to a lifestyle similar to their U.S. counterparts. Vodka, although still popular, is not usually drunk with a meal the way beer and wine are. And religion is making a steady comeback from the oppression of the Soviet years.

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Safety & Security Common Sense and Awareness As you travel, exercise the same caution and awareness that you would in a large American city. Don’t be overly nervous or suspicious, but keep your eyes open. If you are venturing out after dark, go with one or two other people.

Carry a one-day supply of cash in your pocket. Carry most of your money in a travel pouch or money belt under your shirt. Replenish your pocket supply when you are in a safe and quiet place, or in our vehicle. Don't leave valuables unattended in your hotel room. Every hotel will offer use of a hotel safe at the front desk or an electronic in-room safe.

Pickpockets Pickpockets may create a sudden distraction. In any sort of puzzling street situation, try to keep one hand on your money belt. If an encounter with a local turns out to be long and complicated and involves money or your valuables, be very careful. Con artists sometimes target travelers.

Communications To ensure you are available during your trip to friends and relatives at home, you will receive two copies of your hotel list, including phone numbers, with your Final Documents. One copy is for you to bring, and one to leave behind with friends or relatives in case they need to contact you during the trip.

How to Dial When calling overseas from the U.S., dial 011 for international exchange, then the country code (indicated by a plus sign: +), and then the number. The country codes on this trip are: +372 for Estonia, +371 for Latvia, +370 for Lithuania, +7 for Russia, and +48 for Poland. Phone numbers abroad may not have the same number of digits as U.S. numbers; even numbers within a country can vary depending on the city and if the phone is a land line or cell phone.

Cell Phones If you want to use your cell phone on the trip, check with your phone provider to see if your phone and service will work outside of the U.S. It may turn out to be cheaper to rent an international phone or buy a SIM card onsite. If you want to use a local SIM, just make certain your phone can accept one.

Calling Cards and 1-800 Numbers When calling the U.S. from a foreign country, a prepaid calling card can be useful because it circumvents unexpected charges from the hotel. Calling cards purchased locally are typically the best (less expensive, more likely to work with the local phones, etc.). One reminder: Do not call U.S. 1-800 numbers outside the continental United States. This can result in costly long distance fees, since 1-800 numbers do not work outside the country.

Internet Most hotels in the countries visited during the course of this itinerary offer complimentary wireless internet in each room. Please feel free to bring your own device(s) on the trip if you plan on using Wi-Fi where it is available.

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8. Additional Resources Suggested Readings We’ve listed a few of our favorite books about the region you'll be traveling. Most of these are available in large bookshops (especially those that specialize in travel or international books), by mail order, and from the Internet.

The Baltics: Between Shades of Gray by Ruta Sepetys (Literature) This highly acclaimed novel tells the story of Lina, a Lithuanian teenager who is forcibly deported to a Siberian work camp in 1941. A talented artist, she uses her drawings as a way to maintain her dignity and identity—and perhaps reach her father, who is being held in a different camp. Although fiction, the story is based on accounts from survivors and historical research, and therefore provides a good sense of the Soviet suppression in the Baltics.

Coup de Grace by Marguerite Yourcenar (Literature) A novel set against the backdrop of the Latvian War of Independence in the aftermath of WWI.

Purge by Sofi Oksanen (Literature) In this acclaimed novel, Oksanen weaves together the stories of two women in 1990s Estonia who are brought together by tragic—and sometimes shocking—circumstance. A bestseller in Europe, the novel has been translated into at least 32 languages.

Set Sail for Murder by Carolyn Hart (Mystery) Sailing to , Tallinn, and St. Petersburg with Mr. and Mrs. Jimmy Lennox is his old friend, retired investigative reporter Henrietta O' Dwyer Collins. But can she find out who is trying to kill Jimmy's dashing wife before disaster strikes?

The Avengers, A Jewish War Story by Rich Cohen (Biography/Memoir) The story of three kids from the Jewish , who went from the streets of Vilna to fighting the Germans and, eventually, a Kibbutz north of . Cohen, who first met Ruzka, Abba and Vitka on a family trip to Israel in 1977, has fashioned a suspenseful, riveting story from the tale of their remarkable lives.

The Baltic Revolution by Anatol Lieven (History) Lieven explores the culture and personality of the Baltic peoples, their religious and national differences and relations with Russia and the West. Written by a Times correspondent who interweaves interviews, observations and history to reveal post- Glasnost Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. This book was written shortly after the Baltic independence, so it may not be in stock at your local bookstore, but it should be available online.

The Baltic, A New History of the Region and Its People by Alan Palmer (History) In this vivid chronicle of the region, Palmer sketches the history of the Baltic with narrative sweep and telling anecdote, covering developments, personalities and conflicts from the Viking era to the growth of the powerful Hanseatic League, 17th-century politicking, Russian takeover and modern independence.

The Christening by Denise Neuhaus (Literature) This accomplished novel, set against a backdrop of the last days of the Soviet Union, follows three Estonian women in Tallinn and .

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The Dogs of Riga by Henning Mankell (Mystery) In this installment of Mankell's Kurt Wallender crime series, the Swedish detective travels to Latvia on the shadowy trail of a grisly murder. It's a gripping, suspenseful tale, steeped in place.

We Are Here: Memories of the Lithuanian Holocaust by Ellen Cassedy (Memoir) A heartfelt and personal investigation into the Lithuanian Holocaust by an American journalist who uses her own family history to illustrate this dark era.

Russia: The Amber Room, The Fate of the World's Greatest Lost Treasure by Adrian Levy and Catherine Scott- Clark (History) Two investigative journalists on the trail of a roomful of amber from the days of Peter the Great, missing since the Siege of Leningrad in 1941.

Among the Russians by Colin Thubron (Travel Narrative) The marvelous account of a 10,000-mile journey by from St. Petersburg and the Baltic States south to Georgia and in 1981. A gifted writer and intrepid traveler, Thubron grapples with the complex Russian identity in this lyrical book.

Anna Karenina by Leo Tolstoy (Literature) Tolstoy's tragic love story of the beautiful, but married Anna, and her passionate affair with the dashing Count Vronsky. Any version is good, but the one translated by Larissa Volokhonsky and Richa Pevear is especially acclaimed.

The Madonnas of Leningrad by Debra Dean (Fiction) When Marina was young she was a tour guide for the world-renown Hermitage Museum…but how could both she and the artworks she loved survive when her city is besieged by the Nazis?

Peter the Great, His Life, and World ; The Romanovs, The Final Chapter ; and Nicholas and Alexandra by Robert Massie (Biography/History) Three important works by a Pulitzer Prize-winning, best-selling expert on the Russian Imperial family. Massie portrays a giant of history in Peter the Great ; unfolds the mystery of what might be the remains of the Romanovs in The Final Chapter ; and dazzles with the fairytale romance of the last emperor and his bride in Nicholas and Alexandra .

Russia, A Concise History by Ronald Hingley (History) A readable, condensed history of Russia's multiple transformations by a well-known Russian scholar.

Sunlight at Midnight: St. Petersburg and the Rise of Modern Russia by W. Bruce Lincoln (History) A wonderfully written, informative portrait of the city, discussing its culture, architecture and history. Lincoln focuses on the development of St. Petersburg in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Poland: God's Playground: A by (History) Critics regard this work as the best and most exciting history of Poland, in two volumes; the author also offers a condensed version—Heart of Europe: A Short History of Poland .

The Polish August by Neal Ascherson (History) An absorbing postwar history that culminates in the rise of Solidarity. The Struggle & the Triumph by Lech Walesa (Autobiography) Lech Walesa’s autobiography sheds enormous light on the issues around Solidarity, as wells as reveals much about the life of this courageous leader.

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Guidebooks: Your Trip Leader will be happy to provide recommendations and suggestions during the trip, so a guidebook is not a necessity. But a good one can be invaluable as a one-stop reference, so for those travelers who have asked for suggestions, we offer these guidelines. Since different guidebook series each have their own target audience and structure, it is well worth your time to browse your local library or bookstore to find the one(s) you like best. To get you started, here is some general information on the most popular series:

Culture Smart! – Focuses on local customs and etiquette instead of sights, dining, etc. DK Eyewitness – Innovative visuals make these books easy to use and a nice souvenir once the trip is over. The focus is primarily on the sights and activities. Fodor’s – A classic guidebook with strong information on activities, shopping, and dining. Good mix of upscale recommendations and budget suggestions. Frommer’s – A comprehensive guide series that is known for its restaurant recommendations. Insight – Offers more information on history and culture than usual, nice visuals, good maps. Lonely Planet – Practical guides geared towards a more adventurous traveler on a budget. National Geographic – From the same company that publishes the magazine. Excellent photographs, good information on history, nature, and culture. Rough Guides –For the independent traveler on a budget. Particularly known for their maps.

Maps: Most hotels will provide maps free of charge at the reception desk or in your room. These maps are usually sufficient for our travelers, but if you plan on any independent exploration, you may wish to consider purchasing a map before your departure. This can be especially useful in a country that doesn’t use the Roman alphabet as the hotel maps may only be printed in the local language.

Some recommended map series include: Rand McNally international maps (especially the StreetWise series), Insight’s FlexiMaps, and Rough Guide’s destination maps. We suggest that you visit your local bookstore or library to get a better sense of which type of map is best for your needs before making a purchase.

Suggested Movies

Pan Tadeusz: Last Foray into Lithuania directed by (2000, color). This period drama follows a family feud set against the backdrop of Russia’s rule of Poland/Lithuania at the turn of the century. In Polish with subtitles.

Purge directed by Antti J. Jokinen (2012, color). Set in modern-day Estonia, this is the film adaptation of the best-selling novel about two damaged women of different generations who are brought together by tragedy and violence. The film has received positive reviews and was nominated for a Best Foreign Language Oscar under its original title, Puhdistus . But be warned that the violence the two women experience is very much as part of the story and can be difficult to watch. In Finnish with subtitles.

Russia: Land of the Tsars produced by A&E (2003, color). Filmed on location in Russia by the A&E crew, this documentary captures the imperial history of the Tsars. Look for the special edition set that includes bonus episodes from the TV show A&E Biography on Peter the Great, Ivan the Terrible, and Rasputin.

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The Other Dream Team directed by Marius Markevicius (2012, color). A documentary that traces the unlikely rise of the Lithuanian national basketball team, who struggled to in the 1992 Olympics despite earlier Soviet oppression and a lack of funds. The story takes a surprising twist when a famous American rock-and-roll band takes up their cause.

The Invisible Front directed by Jonas Ohman and Vincas Sruoginis (2014). A documentary about the Lithuanian resistance told through the experience of one of its leaders, Juozas Luksa, and his fellow “Forest Brothers.”

The Shoe directed by Laila Pakalnina (1999, B&W). This sometimes-tense and sometimes-comedic take on the Cinderella story was an official selection at the Cannes Film Festival. When the Soviet border patrol find a woman’s shoe in the sands of the coast of Latvia, an investigation ensues—one that requires each woman in the nearby town to see if the shoe fits. The black and white and recreation of 1950s Latvia is especially striking.

The Treasures of Hermitage (1992, color). A six-part documentary television series, with a running time of almost three hours. Each of the 12 programs runs 30 minutes, covering the full scope of the collection. Part of the series “Museums of the World.”

Night Train Night Train is a 1959 film by director that brings together Jerzy and Marta—two strangers who both seem to be on the run from something. They accidently end up holding tickets for the same sleeping chamber on an overnight train to the Baltic Sea coast. The story takes a turn when the police enter the train in search of a murderer and rumors start brewing. This Polish thriller will leave you at the edge or your seat until the very end!

The Pianist The 2002 film by director focuses on the destruction of the during World War II. is based on the true story of a Polish Jewish pianist who spent five years struggling against the Nazi occupation of Warsaw. As his family is shipped off to the Nazi labor camps, he escapes deportation and lives in the of Warsaw. The award-winning film tells the harrowing story of the brilliant pianist as he struggles to live through the extreme destruction and despair.

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Useful Websites Tourist information http://www.visitestonia.com Estonia http://www.latviatourism.lv Latvia http://www.travel.lt Lithuania http://www.lonelyplanet.com/russia Russia www.gopoland.com Poland

Overseas Adventure Travel Store http://www.oatshop.com

International health information: CDC (Centers for Disease Control) http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/

Electric current and plug types http://www.worldstandards.eu/electricity/plugs-and-sockets

Foreign exchange rates http://www.oanda.com/converter/classic

ATM locators http://www.mastercard.com/atm for Cirrus ATMs http://www.visa.com/atmlocator for PLUS ATMs

World weather http://www.intellicast.com http://www.weather.com http://www.wunderground.com

Foreign languages for travelers: basic terms in more than 80 languages http://www.travlang.com/languages

Travel tips: packing light, choosing luggage, etc. http://www.travelite.org

Net café guide: 100s of locations around the globe http://www.cybercafes.com

U.S. Customs & Border Protection: traveler information http://www.cbp.gov/xp/cgov/travel

Transportation Security Administration (TSA): agency that screens luggage in U.S. http://www.tsa.gov

National Passport Information Center (NPIC): for passport information http://www.travel.state.gov

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