Properties of Wool and Cotton Fabrics Dyed with Eucalyptus, Tannin and Flavonoids
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Rattanaphol Mongkholrattanasit, Jiří Kryštůfek, Properties of Wool and Cotton Fabrics Dyed Jakub Wiener, Jarmila Studničková with Eucalyptus, Tannin and Flavonoids Technical University of Liberec, Abstract Faculty of Textile Engineering, Fabrics made from wool and cotton were dyed with eucalyptus leaf extract, rutin, querecetin Department of Textile Chemistry, and tannin dyes by the pad-dry technique. In this experiment, ferrous sulfate was used as a Studentská 2, 461 17, Liberec 1, Czech Republic mordant. The dyeing properties were evaluated by measuring K/S values and CIELAB. The dif- E-mail: [email protected] ferent fastness properties were also evaluated. The effect of dyes at different concentration levels with respect to their colour strength was also studied. Key words: natural dyes, eucalyptus leaves, quercetin, rutin, tannin, flavonoid, pad-dry dyeing. Flavonoids (polyphenolic pigments) are n Experimental widely present in plants. Rutin (3,3’,4’,5,7 -pentahydroxyflavone-3-rhamnogluco- Materials and chemicals side) and quercetin (3,3’,4’,5,7- pentahy- The eucalyptus leaves (Eucalyptus ca- droxyl- flavone) are phenolic compounds maldulensis) used in this study were derived from hydroxyl substitutions on collected in Thailand. Quercetin dehy- a flavone chromophore. Flavone-based drate, 98% purity (C15H10O7.2H2O, n Introduction compounds are known to form stable MW = 338.80), rutin hydrate, 95% pu- Eucalyptus is a member of the evergreen complexes with metal cations (Fe, Cu, Al rity (C27H30O16.xH2O, MW = 610.52), hardwood genus, endemic to Australasia. and Cr) [7]. and tannin Ph. Eur. 5 (C76H52O46, There are approximately nine hundred MW = 1701.20) were purchased from species and sub-species. Eucalyptus has Sigma, Fluka and Lachner, respectively. Silk dyed with an aqueous extract of also been successfully ground in many Commercially produced wool fabric eucalyptus leaves possessing a mordant parts of the world, including southern Eu- (298 g/m2 twill weave) was washed with compound displays a yellowish-brown , rope, Asia and the west coast of the Unit- a nonionic surfactant at 45 °C for 30 min- colour. An exception is that when the ed States [1]. Eucalyptus leaves contain utes. Then it was thoroughly rinsed and up to 11% of the major component - tan- fabric is dyed with a ferrous mordant, air dried at room temperature. The plain nin (gallic acid [3,4,5-trihydroxybenzoic the fabric shade becomes dark brownish- weave cotton fabric used was a mill- acid], with ellagic acid [2,3,7,8-tetrahy- grey. In such cases, the colour fastness to scoured and bleached cotton fabric of droxy (1) benzopyrano (5,4,3-cde) (1) washing, water and perspiration is at a 135 g/m2. The mordant used was ferrous good to very good level, whereas the col- benzopyran-5,10-dione]) and flavonoids (II) sulfate heptahydrate (FeSO4.7H2O). (quercetin and rutin) as the minor com- our fastness to light and rubbing exhibits The anion wetting agent - Altaran S8 ponents [2, 3]. The structures of selected fair to good levels [8 - 10]. (Sodium alkylsulfate) and soaping agent important colouring components of euca- - Syntapon ABA were supplied by Chem- lyptus leaves are given in Figure 1. Flavonoids and tannins are two of the otex Děčin, Czech Republic. most interesting natural phenolic com- Vegetable tannin extracts contain a va- pounds. Our interest lies in the colour Instrumentation riety of amorphous materials including that these compounds impart when added The mordanting and dyeing were carried polyphenolic tannins of large relative to wool and cotton fabrics by the pad- out in a two-bowl padding mangle ma- molecular mass (M ), such as hydrolys- dry dyeing technique, whereby a cloth is r chine (Mathis, type number HVF.69805). able gallotannin, and tannic acid, as well “padded” mechanically, applied by rapid A drying machine (Mathis Labdryer, type as a less-complex of non-tannins, such as passage through a small padding trough, number LTE-2992) was used for drying flavones and gums [4]. Because tannins followed by intensive squeezing between the dyed fabrics. A spectrophotometer have a large M and are water-soluble r expression rollers and then dye fixation (Datacolor 3890) was used to measure phenolic compounds, they undergo typi- by hot air while drying. After the dye fix- the colour strength. The colour strength, cal phenolic reactions, notably the che- ation, the samples are thoroughly rinsed lation of metal ions. Tannins have been in terms of K/S values, was calculated and air-dried. The process of padding is used in textiles for several hundreds of using the Kubelka-Munk equation, continuous and very rapid. 2 years, as exemplified by the dyeing of K/S = (1-R) /2R, where R is the reflect- cotton and silk with dyewoods, in which ance. the tannin is ‘fixed’ by a metal salt (e.g., Pure quercetin, rutin, and tannin were used in this study because they are 2.3 Dye extraction from eucalyptus CuSO4) employed as a mordant for the dye [5]. Perkin [6] used tannins as mor- the most common and effective. They leaves dants to increase the uptake of cationic are abundant in eucalyptus leaves. Fresh eucalyptus leaves (Eucalyptus ca- dyes (e.g., Mauvein) onto cotton by first- FeSO4.7H2O mordant was also used in maldulensis) were dried in sunlight for ly applying tannin to the cotton, followed this work. This study also investigated one month and crumbled using a blender, by the ‘fixing’ of tannin by the applica- the CIELAB and K/S values of the dye- after which they were used as raw ma- tion of metal (Fe, Al, Cu, Pb, or Sn) salt. ing, as well as the fastness properties. terial for dye extraction, achieved by the 90 Mongkholrattanasit R., Kryštůfek J., Wiener J.,Studničková J.; Properties of Wool and Cotton Fabrics Dyed with Eucalyptus, Tannin and Flavonoids. FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2011, Vol. 19, No. 2 (85) pp. 90-95. Quercetin (C.I. 75670) Rutin (C.I. 75730) Ellagic acid (C.I. 75270) Figure 1. Colour composition of eucalyptus leaf extract dye. Figure 2. UV-VIS spectra of 50 mg/l crude eucalyptus leaf extract Figure 3. UV-VIS spectra of 5 mg/l quercetin and 20 mg/l rutin in dye and 20 mg/l tannin in distilled water. methanol. reflux technique. 70 grams of the crum- cetin (5 mg/l) and rutin (20 mg/l) were of 400 nm. The colour fastness to wash- bled eucalyptus leaves was mixed with prepared by dissolution in methanol. The ing, light and rubbing of the dyed sam- 1 litre of distilled water and refluxed for spectrophotometer scanned from 190 nm ples was determined according to ISO 1 hour. The sample was then filtered and to 820 nm to obtain the UV-visible spectra. 105-C06 A1S: 1994, ISO 105-B02: 1994, the dye solution separated into two por- and ISO 105-X12: 2001, respectively. tions, one for evaporating under reduced Mordanting and pad-dyeing pressure (rotary evaporator), and the oth- A simultaneous padding process was n er for dyeing. A crude dye extract of eu- used. To study the effect of dye con- Results and discussion calyptus leaves obtained from the rotary centration, 2 and 5 g/l concentrations of UV-visible spectra evaporator was crumbled with a blender dyes (eucalyptus leaf extract, quercetin, The UV spectra of the crude eucalyptus and used for obtaining a standard cali- rutin, and tannin) were chosen. Ferrous leaf extract dye and tannin (in an aque- bration curve. The dilution of the euca- sulfate was varied at 2, 5 and 10 g/l for ous solution) are presented in Figure 2. lyptus leaf extract gave a relatively clear each concentration of the dye, and an The characteristic spectra show ab- solution with a linear dependance on the anion wetting agent, Altaran S8 (1 g/l), sorptions in the 200 nm to 220 nm and concentration absorbance relation at an was added to the solution. The fabric 250 nm to 285 nm regions. Absorption absorption peak (λmax) of 262 nm [11]. was then immersed in the dye solution at in the 200 nm to 220 nm region is attrib- A concentration of 20 g/l was calculated room temperature and padded on a two- uted to various chromophores including from a standard curve of concentrations bowl padding mangle at 80% pick up. the C=C bond of various compounds, of the eucalyptus leaf extract dye solu- After padding for 2 seconds, the samples the C=O bond of carbonyl compounds, tions versus the absorbance at the wave- were dried at 90 ºC for 5 minutes. The and the benzene ring [12]. Absorption length mentioned. samples were then washed in a 1 g/l solu- in the 250 nm to 285 nm region is at- tion of a soaping agent, Syntapon ABA, tributed to the electronic transition of Identification of eucalyptus leaf at 80 °C for 5 minutes and then air-dried benzene [12]. extract dye, quercetin, rutin, at room temperature. and tannin The UV spectral characteristics of The crude eucalyptus leaf extract dye, Evaluation of colour strength quercetin and rutin show three absorp- quercetin, rutin, and tannin were charac- and fastness properties tion maxima in the ranges of 200 nm to terised by UV-visible spectroscopy. The The colour strength (K/S) and CIELAB of 230 nm, 240 nm to 280 nm and 300 nm to crude extraction solution (50 mg/l) and the dyed samples were evaluated using a 400 nm. The absorption range of 240 nm tannin (20 mg/l) were prepared by dis- spectrophotometer (Datacolor 3890). All to 280 nm is referred to as band II and solution in distilled water, and the Quer- samples measured showed a λmax value the range of 300 nm to 400 nm as band FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2011, Vol.