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,__ _: Cm Hm Hmea“Wu LM B "__ P_UMB_h8YS C T O0W eB A VISIT TO THE ISLAND OF SANDAY A VISIT TO THE ISLAND OF SANDAY I by Rev.‘ Alexander Goodfellow (Being a new edition of the introduction to his Church History of - Sanday, first published in 1912, with some lighthearted illustrations which have no justification other than serving to stimulate the imag- ination as to how it might have been. The text is prefaced with a rather tortuous introduction relating to current political problems facing Scotland in general, and Orkney and Shetland in particular.)
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Cienfuegos Press Ltd., Publishers & International Mail Order Booksellers Introduction
The Reverend Alexander Goodfellow’s Church History ofSanday is, of course, a part.ial one in both senses of the word; but a small island like Sanday cannot pick and chose its historians and any future chronicler must draw on this valuable and pioneering account from which we shall be republishing the most relevant chapters. Dr. Goodfellow’s prejudices tend naturally towards Church and State; he is first and foremost a Presbyterian minister and an historian second. One must sift out from his accounts that which is truth and that which is opinion, such as his belief that “. . devout men engaged in the conversion of the Orcadian heathens, to show their utter abhorrence of the ancient superstition, may have erected their chapels on the very ruins of the temples of Odin”. Here, as with Goodfellow, Alexander everywhere else, it was not abhorrence or contempt but emulation that A visit to the Island of Sanday. induced one religion to appropriate the holy places and customs of the religion 1. Sanday, Orkney - History it superseded. Where it could not eradicate, it adapted; where it suited, it 1. Title tumed the old gods into devils or monsters; or it reduced them in the scale of » 94-1.13 DA880.Sl goodness to mere saints. Later, when Popery was overtaken by the Reform- ation, much the same process took place again with the new borrowing ISBN 0-904564-10-X heavily from the old. Q It is pertinent and provocative to note the continuous element both in the J cohesive form of established religion and the way it has been reconciled with the interests of successive invaders. The Presbyterian religion has always been ails a forerunner of the modern democratic State in which the Government is an elected tyramiy giving the choice of people as rulers, but guaranteeing the permanent stability of rule from above. ~ The history of Orkney up to the present time makes an irrelevance of most modern political systems, all of which worship the State to one degree or another, or attempt to deify it in the form of nationalism. It is immaterial to the needs of the people of Orkney if they are govemed from Edinburgh, London, Strasbourg or Brussels. The geographical distance at which the hub Etin0rcadiaego of government operates is not relevant to the present day. It would remain as distant from our realities and needs if it were situated in Wick or Thurso. First published 1912 by W. R. Mackintosh, Kirkwall. The Orcadian is, by tradition, not a nationalist but essentially an internation- This edition published 1.978 by Cienfuegos Press, alist and one finds them all over the world; as a seafarer, farmer, etc., - the Over-the-Water, Sanday, Orkney, KW17 2BL. world’s his and her oyster. However, with the subject of devolution domin- ISBN 0-904564-10-X ating the political stage in the coming months the question of political Printed by C. Broad. alliances and national “allegiances” is going to be put to Orcadians and Shetlanders. It is a question to which considerable thought should be given. T r
However, nationalism in Scotland and Wales is not necessarily totalitarian - In one of the more outlandish pieces of wartime propaganda, Alice Dutt any more that State socialism is necessarily so — it merely creates the atmos- Miller’s poem “The White Cliffs of Dover” made quite a sensation for its phere for totalitarianism if the State needs it by fostering a national identific- glowing praise of England, written as if coming from a critical American. I ation which overrides class interests and feelings of liberty. The comic piece de resistance — though it wasn‘t thought so then - was the The alternative to nationalism is not imperialism. Because one “nation” part where she saw people queuing in the drizzling rain to pay their taxes, rules another, one does not have to chose one or the other. There are as which she thought was the sublimest manifestation of patriotism. many Scots and Orcadians south of the imaginary line that runs from Berwick In reality, however, nationalism doesn’t take such forms. No Englishman on Tweed to the Solway Firth as-north of it and no God-given-right has con-: enthuses over his wonderful civil service and how, under constitutional ferred that section of it above to Winnie Ewing, or to Jim Callaghan to pass government, the trains run on time. No Scotsman regrets that he cannot be it over. compelled to spend hi.s prison sentence in Barlinnie rather than an effete The alternative is federalism. A useful word which can be lifted (and has open prison further south. No Welshman feels he should fill up his tax form been by the Liberals, as has the clear expression “Self-management”) to adapt in Cymric, but one can”. be sarcastic, some intellectuals have gone so far as to something which it doesn’t mean. But what I mean by federalism is the to do that, but one wonders if they intend to declare all their earnings if unification of communities independent of the State, as opposed to the unif- they can get away with it — even in Welsh. ication of the peoples within it. As mentioned earlier, it matters little where 1 Tationalism is a smoke screen put out by the State. Nobody can worship we are ruled from and, in fact, we might as well allow the Danes to redeem the State because it is an impersonal thing, a means of exploitation, a form of their pledge and give us back as on a lapsed pawnbroker’s ticket. People, repression which may be greater or lesser, but it is always there; it is concen- places and whole communities were swapped around as wedding gifts and trated disciplinary force, no more to be loved than the public hangman. The gambling debts by rulers, taken or forgotten and only the acceptance of rule public traditionally hatedthe latter so they were always provided with some and oppression has determined the tradition of keeping them where they are. form of emotional appeal to which they could respond. The British have In the federal idea every community that naturally formed an independent flogged the monarchy to death to do it whereas the Americans are content community would be self-governing; each community would be like the free with a few yards of bunting and tickertape as a tribal juju; but these’ things are cities of the Middle Ages, they would be no bigger than was necessary for each only figureheads and the emotional charisma of the modem State — one the of them to be-able to enable all in them to participa“te,_in their running. Their divine right, by conquest, was dead and damned -— has been the national idea. co-ordination would not depend on ancient treaties or national affinities or The belief in the State as a country, even as a person, is whathas given the nearest powerful neighbour. They would unite, internationally, not Statism an emotion which is expressed as nationalism. Peopleiwill give their nation by nation, but directly to whatever international combination appealed lives to the nation when they are notoriously reluctant to pay ‘fa few shillings to them. \ in customs duties to the State, which is precisely the same thing. The aristoc- There is no reason why a majority of votes obtained on a dubious commit- racy were always willing to risk théir lives for “the country”, but engaged in ment should bind people who detest the policies involved. The coercion of tax swindles in case death duties cost their descendents too much. the minority by a majority, solely obtained through parliamentary chicanery, After 1914, the imperial notion ofI patriotism was as stale as last week’s beer is seen at its worst and most insoluble in Ireland where nobody can devise a It had been pushed too far. After the rising challenge of socialism, the f3SClSi;:l» system — but federalism — where there won’t be a disaffected minoritay some- revived the idea of glorification of nationalism — in Germany, a mystic idea where — it is only a question of which. s bound up with race. This racialism of Germany’s has come in for plenty of The breaking up of Europe into regional communities, loosely federated, hammering, but since Stalinism and social democracy have made the very may seem utopian in view of the power of the States involved. But this is to notion of socialism stink, the nationalist idea has revived. It was an alternat- worship power. In fact, if such regions arise they can sap away at the pillars ive to class struggle. Whatever its form, it is reactionary not so much because of power much as the national idea is doing, but with far greater potency. of what it is as because it is a parasite around the State, a poison ivy that makes What is the basis of a region as opposed to a nation? Self-interest; self- the prison walls of the barrack State look attractive. V sufficiency; the clear possibility of self-management; the sense of community; In England, the disillusion with the Labour Party has given birth to one the possibility of circumventing rule from above. There is no real need to form of racialism which has made great strides in the National Front; in bring race or colour or nation into it. One can preserve the folk traditions Scotland the Scottish Nationalist Party exploits the same feeling. It is and progress — one can only preserve folk traditions and progress when one noticeable that the National Front does not make much headway in Wales is not subordinated to a national centre. If, however, the Scottish National and Scotland where there are creditable nationalist alternatives to such crude Party has its way, the fostering of reactionary and backward looking attitudes racialism as is peddled by the National Front, but it comes to much the same will soon prove to be a more effective curse of Scotland (and Orkney and thing. Shetland) than any playing card ever was. ll The editor is no doubt as prejudiced in urging a system of direct democracy and self-managed federalism as persistently as the author of the following history persuades submission to the prevailing authority, but the State has assumed proportions beyond the imagination of over seventy years ago. With the almost inevitable prospect of uranium mining in these islands it is now no mere academic question as to whether the politicians and civil servants who order the affairs of state are kilted or bowler hatted. Those who depopulated The Highlands and Islands for the Cheviot sheep, the stag, and grouse moors earned the hatred of history, but they have been superseded by those who would depopulate the world. | > I v Stuart Christie, Publisher A VISIT TO THE ISLAND OF SANDAY
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,1 Hearken once more: -’ I will tell thee the mundane lore. —EMERSON
ii..- -‘Eu MY VISIT to the lobster-shaped island of Sanday in the month of June, 1903, was under much more fav- ourable climatic conditions than that of the Rev. George Low in the spring of 1778, who, writing to a friend about his difficulties and discouragements, said — “l had a most wretched season to go through the North Isles with, nothing but wind and rain, which detained me in this and the ’tother place, sometimes for weeks, that I could not set my nose over the door. However, I had made a shift to get a tolerable good description of the No. Isles, with an account of the most considerable curiosities lately found there, with drawings, of which you shall have an enumeration by the next opportunity.” Alas! what would antiquarians and historians not give for a sight of Low’s Orcadian “mundane lore” but by some myster- ious Providence the MSS, with the description of the North Isles — curiosit- ies and drawings —- have alldisappeared. Poor Low’s labour accomplished under such difficulties seems to have been lost labour after all. In his “Tour through Orkney and Shetland in 1774” there is almost nothing about the North Isles. “Thanks to the Best,” as the pious Orcadian would say, “my lines have fallen in pleasant places,” as I was able to look out and about every day during my short sojourn, enjoying the sunshine — Nature’s ben- ediction — all the time. And so far my precious MS has not disappeared into oblivion as my readers may see. According to Dr Wood who resided for several years in Sanday and has been described as “an ingenious medical gentleman” and an antiquarian of no mean authority in his day, “The island of Sanday is first mentioned in the Orlcneyinga Saga, during the reign of Earl Paul, who having, in 1136, defeated Earl Ronald in a sea-fight, and having captured most of his fleet, returned in triumph to Orkney and invited to a special banquet all the aristoc racy of the islands with their friends. He then resolved that a watch-tower should be erected on Fair Isle, on which a fire should be kindled, should an army be observed approaching from Shetland. There was another watch- tower erected in Ronaldsay and similar ones in most of the other islands, so that the signal might be seen over the whole. He appointed Thorstein, the son of Havard, the son of Gunna, to take charge of Ronaldsay; and Magnus, his brother to take charge of Sanday.” . I I
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“Sanday is again mentioned ‘in the year 1137 after Earl Ronald had returned to the islands. Ronald sends ambassadors to the Bishop begging he would intercede for him. He afterwards adds to the embassy Thorstein, the son of Rangnu, and Thorstein, the son of Havard of Sanday. Again, Sanday is mentioned as a fit place for 'a conference to be held between Swein, son of Asleif, Anakol, a follower of Earl Erlend. ‘When Gauti met Swein he sent a messenger to Anakol and requested Swein to betake himself to Sanday with his followers that they might hold a conference there. He therefore prom- ised he should go thither.’ ” “In the year 1157 Earl Erlend and Swein left Shetland for Orkney; but ‘encountering a severe storm and a.variety of whirl- pools, in Dennis Roost, it happened that Swein was separated from the Earl and driven to Fair Isle with twelve of their ships. He concluded that the Earl had perished. From thence he sailed south to Sanday where he found Erlend with three ships. There was great joy on both sides at this meet.Eng.”’ “In the year 1158 Swein fled to Sanday to escape the wrath of Earl Haralld whose house in Gairsay he had forcibly entered with intent to murder him; but Haralld then happened to be in a neighbouring island hunting hares. When Haralld was informed by his domestics of this outrage of Swein he p immediately set out in search of him to Enhallow where Swein had fled; however he contrived to conceal his vessel in a large cavern in one of the cliffs of that island, and so eluded the search of his pursuers, although they were at one time so close to the mouth of the cavern that he overheard their conversation.” “He leaves his ship in the cavern and seizes a merchant vessel which belonged to the monks, sails to Sanday,’ and there lands and sets fire to the ship. Upon landing he repairs to a farm called Valunes, occupied by a man named Bardr; he was a.kinsman of Swein; having privately begged of him to come out he made known to him his wish to remain there.”* a_ If we are to believe Professor Dietrichson in his recent “Monumenta Orcadia, ” “In the battle of Largs some 16,000 brave Norsemen fell.” and there are some antiquarian remains to justify the same, this island was of vast importance during the Norse period - 872 to 1468 ~ when ‘a wave of sepulchre of Norway.* And when the Spanish Armada of 1588 sailed emigration from Norway to Sanday’ took place, and where he supposes the against England she fared no better, if not worse, than the Norwegian Armada had done. Philip’s “Invincibles” like Hakon’s were compelled to retreat, and “first stronghold of the earls to have been established,” -— witness Ellsness, in doing so, at least, as many as were left, had to sail by the Orkneys ‘ where Tressness, and Newark. the storms of the northern seas broke upon them and finished the work of The first survey of Orkney is said to have taken place in 1263 by command destruction.’ Some of those ship-wrecked sailors where cast on the islands of Hakon IV. who issued orders to divide the whole lands of Orkney and where the ‘barbarians showed them no small kindness!’ After a time they Zetland into Marklands containing eight Eyrislands or Urislands, each of which entered into matrimonial engagements and settled down among the natives. should find quarters and supplies for a Hofding and a fixed number of men, This is common tradition and the dark Spanish look of some of the inhabit- probably in proportion to the Skatts formerly paid. Most likely at this time ants of the North Isles goes a long way to substantiate the story. About the island of Sanday was properly mapped out. This was also the year of King this time the famous Elizabethan navigator, Sir Martin Frobisher, sailed Hakon’s ill-fated expedition against Scotland. He set out from Bergen along around these coasts, and “his account of the condition of the Orcadians with Magnus 111., Earl of Orkney, in “a good longship,” with a magnificent in 1577 does not indicate an advanced state of civilisation.”T fleet of 100 galleys. For most of the summer he lay among these islands completing his preparations. When this Norwegian Armada proceeded south- This may have been true of the mass'of the people but surely even then there wards a violent storm arose dashing many of the ships against each other and was an upper class in the islands. In Sanday there were various “Bull” or greatly injuring the fleet. In the battle of Largs some 16,000 brave i“-Eor:-.ei~ien “Bu” houses in 1502 as may be seen from the “Rentals” handed down which fell. Hakon returned to Kirkwall with a broken fleet and a broken heart and go to prove the existence of some better class families. Sir Wm. Sinclair, Knight after a short time he sickened and died. His body lay in state in St Magnus takes his title, “First of Warsetter.” from one of the estates here, and was the Cathedral; from thence it was conveyed to Bergen and buried in the royal * See “The St. Clairs of the lslcs,” by Roland William Saint Clair — pages 83,482, 548. * From the Statistical Account of Lady Parish, 1841, drawn up by the Rev. Walter Traill. t “ The St. Clairs of the Isles” p. 545. 2 _—%i lift the tribute and to enjoy a holiday. Many of their wives and friends came son of “William the Wasterf,’ the disinherited Master of Orkney. Sir William’s with them in the boats. The day was lovely and they were leaping and dancing brother was Henry, Lord Sinclair, who was killed at Flodden in 1513. It appears also-that Sir James Sinclair, the natural son of Sir William, who was with joy. But the Sanday people who were hiding and biding their time rushed Governor of Kirkwall Castle in 1515 and defeated the invasion of his Scottish upon their oppressors and slew every one of them. After this no one asked for kindred in 1529, was knighted by King James V. and in 1533 obtained from taxes. the Scottish King a feudal grant of Sanday and Eday through “misrepresenting these islands as infertile holmes.” If this was so he suffered the penalty as conscience made him a coward. On hearing that His Majesty was to visit Orkney, Sir James, fearing exposure, committed suicide, it is said, by throwing himself from the Gloup of Linkness in Deerness.* r--r-e
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The earliest historian of these islands was the Benedictine so familiarly known as Jo. Ben. who begins his “Description” with North Ronaldshay and Sanday "i’”‘i‘.=-iv in 1529.1 As he passed through the latter island he saw a horrible sight at the graveyard in Cross which reads like an apocryphal story — countless heads of human beings were seen, a thousand of them larger than three heads of the “After this no-one asked for taxes.” present day men, and from their gums teeth like kernels were extracted. He was wonder-struck and enquired at an aged person about the bodies and half- In what are called “Peterkin’s Rentals,”* there are three different references burned bones and was told that the people were for a long time subject to to Sanday at three different periods, namely, in I502, with an account of the Stronsay by paying a yearly tribute, but the unwarlike Sandonians desired to value of the various lands or farms and the amount of scat paid to king and be free. The day came when the people of Stronsay arrived on the island to bishop. as may be seen from Lord Sinclair’s rental book of Orkney; in 1595, * “The St. Clairs of the Isles” — pp. 132, 3, 8. there are the Rentals “Pro Rege” and “Pro Episcopo,” belonging to the 1' John Bellenden — “The Description of the Isles of Orkney.” Some think that the date crown and mitre; and in 1627, the “Report of the Estate of the Isle of Sanday” 1529 should be much later. He was appointed to the Archdeaconcry of Moray and made a Canon of Ross. He opposed the Reformation work, retired and died at Rome, 1550. *Rentals of the Ancient Earldom and Bishoprick of Orkney with some other explanatory See “Old Lore” —- No. 6. and relative documents - Collected by Alexander Peterkin, Sheriff-Substitute of Orkney, l 820. 5 4 J j
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SPURNE-SS it l H l‘ : as given in by the Commission appointed by the Bishop of Orkney wherein the parishes or vice versa, that is, whether things civilia or things sacra came is set forth what was called —- “The JUST TYRELL of the Landis, Teynds, and first, one cannot now say. Cross and Burness parishes have been united since wther Poyntis.” The two ministers and four leading men of the island were the Reformation, it is believed, or before our written records. Formerly the Commissioners and they closed their report by declaring -— “This we have Burness was united as quoad sacra to Cross, while North Ronalshay was done according to our conscience and knowledge.” The document consists included in the united parishes until 1830 when it was erected into a of three pages with information about the kirks, parishes, lands and some Parliamentary church. Then in 1833 it was declared by Act of Assembly of the men connected with the estates, of whom something may be said to be a quoad sacra and erected as such by Court of Teinds in l847.* And again. In the two “Statistical Accounts” of the parishes of this island a vast seeing that this island is separated from Sanday by a dangerous firth -- “about amount of useful and interesting information may be found. The writers seven miles wide” — it is well entitled to be a parish by itself. Before this, were competent men as will be seen. The first or old “Account” of. 1792 was Cross and Bumess had each a church but about the time of the Disruption from the pen of Rev. William Clouston of Cross and Burness and is an the building in the latter place became dilapidated, while the one in Cross elaborate and valuable document of 50 pages dealing with fully 30 different afterwards fell into the same condition, so a new church was erected in a subjects relating to Sanday and North Ronaldshay and may be regarded more central position, suitable for the people in both parishes. This was both as a storehouse and a lighthouse in connection with these two islands. done in I862. t I-Iere one will find much concerning the population, the habits and customs of the people, names of places, the soil, diseases, shipwrecks, servants’ wages l. BURNESS, OR ST. COLM, OR ST. COLUMBA. and work, kelp making and selling, as well as something about the schools Mr. Scarthin his account of this parish says that Burness was “anciently and kirks. One thing of special note is that the only map of these islands was called St. Colm’s,” as if it had originally had been named after that saint. And made by Mr. Murdoch McKenzie, a native of the country, in 1746-7. And in no doubt but the Saint has the priority and is in harmony with Holy Cross regard to Sanday he had the assitance of Mr. John Trail of Burness Parish who and Our Lady. In Peterkin’s Rentals as far back as 1502 this parish is referred by “most exact measurements” found that this very irregular island was fully to as “Parrochia Sancti Columbi” as may be seen from these words — “This 12 miles in length and about 1% miles in breadth, making l9 square miles, Sett and Rentall of Sanct Collumbis parrochin maid the xiij day of Junij Im while North Ronalshay was 4 miles square. The second or new “Statistical Vc tua.” Then, in I595 the same name still exists — “Parochia Sancte Account” appeared about fifty years afterwards in 1841 when the different Columbae.” It is only when we come to the “Report of the Estate of parishes were taken up by different men. Cross and Burness came from the the Isle of Sanday —- 26th June, l627” that the name of the parish is called able pen of Robert Scarth, Esq., Scar House; Lady from Rev. Walter Traill, Bumess, when the minister signs himself — “Thomas Cok, minister at minister of the parish; and North Ronalshay from Rev. Adam White. These Burnes.” The Church, however, is still named “Saint Combs Kirk.” But three accounts are full of interest and of great value and in no way overlap when or how Burness came to supersede St. Colm, the secular for the sacred or supersede but rather supplement the former excellent account by Mr one cannot tell. Clouston. This makes us inquire into the meaning of the word Bur Ness and see how appropriate it is to the place. Of course the “ness” is common to a great -- - .. - .. . __ --—- .. ~~- . ' ';“'..':-*-=--..%=“"-'"'*=-=5"-"' ".5%:-'i-é-;-£=.:J;:=$757???-‘T53?'7' 1-.-.=~.-=.-_ a=- 7 e "-.-.’;;. :=a"-4=e'.-.-: '-'--.--' '*_‘i.‘-215;: .- .- 1 -'1'.‘- IIIi' many “heads” or promontories in this island, as Elsness, Lopness, but the 1. -_- 1 _ - -‘=':-1. ___.---;--J-“'1='I+I '--_'---1r I-.1-' = F" .. :--' " '..'_ - ‘-'ilE'=..;_ I H __ _ "-.--:;:::." ,-;;3.--Z,;..-= '_--1'---'-"i -3'-.‘-1-_‘,_._.:_._;.._, '-"'.'..:- "“- -I.---- .__ _'_ - 21--_ _ -"-__- - _ -:—__ ,--j. ._-_ - _.-- .,,__:;;']|;_. .- ' " =?"’*i ‘--. ' . "-1'-T-'='"--:-;-=.='-..__._.=¢-t=-=-'-"==_---_-_—.:_ ""~ =-- -- ._—_-. - - ' . :: . :"‘¥‘-__- j- - 1;. _ ,1--_;'..-._I3.'__'-'£“?3z_5‘¥=‘§@_‘.5; ~'-j__'- -"-‘ ' JLCE 1-5 _*;=_=-,-.j_ . i 'f{_=.=:-'-._~; ‘ '- - -. -'".\- ' .-'=};=. -_.-..__.-1-;-__--;_- ; -Z _-gb --._..:%. .=.‘ ... 4;‘-. _, 1'_.---'-_-.- ¢-_-;;-77. _,_ - :1-.-__'-.;._ _- word “Bur” is not found so frequently. There is a Burness in the parish of fii?g_-- ._' _ =_-in -"i-'===:§,-&'-‘+_;-?; -_aF- ' Q17": ._ """ ‘L. ?‘;Ii...=fi=.--~_-'_*._"<. ‘ 1-» =-_ < .====;- ' — +.-..—.---_- _ - -'- " '-"-1- -'-'.--_ '_-'-_' '—_'=-._;i=s1s_--I*-_--: -;§:—'T.* '-‘.- Tra.l1—‘_.-_ 1"‘: - -_ ._ . ' _ ====.-'7’ -' ' Firth and in old records we come across “Baikie of Bumess.” Here, however,
‘_~.,___ we have the name of a parish, and according to Mr. Moodie-Heddle of
P7 I Clettt the word “Bur” or “Bor” means “tide,” so we have Bumess as the n -1 J‘-r |—- ._ '1 1- “point or head of the tide.” It seems to belong to the same class of words -- _____-;‘,.;;-_=-___,__ .11‘-. _. - _-_-.. _-__ r: : "__._. -_ --—‘E,.-_.‘__ _ - - ___-____ fa fi_'.‘§IIp4_.*‘_‘;--=fI—;'_.'.._ - _=__EL..1;_.,__"' ‘I’ ___ — ' - ,_fl*‘§‘i*::_~.—.-. 1 - -- -' - :__'~I-»-..— .,._,.___ _ - -- 1...’... . - - ---. _ .- :'.;rii1 ' " .-‘--"-- -|r-- '_ " ._... -.1.-\ T--... ""‘- -- '---.-.- - . -. ....— I _ -45-_ I-n¢\_-a - _ __-_ _fld_ . .£:rr;,-,__k I-P 1-__ -...__ - 1 _=-In-r as Burray (Isle of the tide), Burwick (Bay of the tide), and Burravoe (Voe of the -.-s.._-__m------»---4--5-"--'--v --- I -----~------a~=-~-==-==~=~==""'"*"" --an-n-n-n---n-mn--snip-—ni¢;---_,,-._'=,,J,.—_ tide). The parish lies to the north of the island, and is like.Lady parish Burness is protected from the full force “almost a dead flat,” or like a “billiard table,” and does not rise much above of the Atlantic surge by the holmes of Ire. sea level. It “extends to about 2500 imperial acres,” is “almost surrounded THE THREE PARISHES by the sea,” and on the shores there is said to be “a most plentiful supply of seaweed, both for manure and for the manufacture of kelp.” Burness is As Gaul was divided into three parts so this island has been divided into protected from the “full force of the Atlantic surge by the holms of Ire three parishes - Lady, Cross, and Burness,'or St. Colm’s. As one has said the and the half-tide rocks or skerries of Rive.” The shores are in general flat island itself may be regarded as “three large peninsulae.” The division has but the “appearance of the parish is green, fertile, and lively, excepting been from time immemorial, at least, from early Roman Catholic days, as *Tudor makes a mistake in saying that the island of North Ronaldshay was formcrly the names seem to indicate. Whether the Churches have been named after attached to Lady Parish-p.358. 8 "‘lnformation kindly given to the author. , 9 . . _ _
O
a 0 0 0 I I . W?»:__ I’?-,-“.57 . near its junction with Cross parish, where there is a moor of about 200 r .. .~.-.-».-'-'.r.-.- ' acres of a most barren and forbiddmg appearance — this was in 1840. And what Mr. Scarth says is well worth quoting — “Few places present
more encouragement to the sportsman than the parishes of Cross and “Th \ "-L‘:\§ ‘-..__ -_“'=.I *_ ._ q\\ "_‘\- Burness, for though there are no grouse or hares, as on Eday or on the ‘In. I-M. - __ ._-_ wqff‘-P5 ‘-.-_ mainland of Orkney, there are great numbers of lapwing, snipe, and land 5 ._ 1|-_ . ___r , Q-_ _- _- -. rail; while rabbits are not counted by hundreds, but by thousands. On . ._ I |_ __ Ix _.-
more than one farm 3,000 rabbits are taken yearly!” Without doubt the -._,____ ' links abound with rabbits, the shores with kelp, and the sea with lobsters,
not to speak of other good things. Rabbit skins and kelp had become almost " -r;-‘"1’-Q‘_\\ '- \_._~*'~‘"---/"’
\ E unsaleable by 1840, but since then both have been remunerative, especially I --_Z""--.. R -*'“‘“'§\. "_'l'“';‘;-='"““./"--—"“-""" . the kelp, concerning the latter one man has pithily put it -— “The kelp pays “"' the rent, and buys the coal, and there’s a pound or twa ower.” In the “Some intended and some no intended, at least we dinna’ ken.” golden days of kelp Burness produced 220 tons annually and Cross 260, in all 480 tons of superior quality which brought in “a clear average return district and seems to be of little use. The Point of Rive and the Ruff of to the proprietor of £9 per ton, making £4320.” Rive lead out to the beacon where mariners are warned of danger, but alas! in spite of the warning many sad shipwrecks have taken place, as one remarked, “Some intended and some no intended, at least, we dinna’ ken.” I counted twelve sailors’ graves with stones set up to remind the Wanderers of sacred dust and fateful events. The Loch of Rive is right opposite to the Point where one may find lots of holes with eggs laid by the “graddies.” Pits for kelp also are found all along the shore until one comes to the remarkable Pit o’ Rive which was built by Colonel Horwood when the kelp trade was flourishing, but now, alas! all going to waste, having been unused for a number of years. There may be seen the stone tower and brick stalk with
--*1!‘ furnace beneath which was used for drying and burning the kelp and making it ready to be shipped south. A stone dyke 6 or 8 feet high had been built round the place which is about 100 feet long. The wooden hut where the watchman lived is still to the fore. The whole concern must have cost the enterprising Colonel several hundreds of pounds and it was a sad pity that the undertaking was doomed to failure. The buildings, however, maybe regarded as monumental to the worthy man.
-nil _._- The entire parish (unless 3 acres in Hettal, and 18 acres the minister’s “The kelp pays the rent, and buys the coal, and there’s a pound or twa ower.” glebe lands) now belonging to the Horwoods, was the property of Thomas Traill of Westove in 1840 and included the two mansion houses of Scar As for lobsters, in 1840, they were said to have been “caught in great and Saville. He had 60 tenants, paying rent varying from £4 to £40, and numbers by boats from the shore, and bought up and conveyed to the the rents including the wind-mill and water-mill brought in about £510, London market direct from Sanday by smacks.” And even yet the lobsters exclusive of kelp. Scar house with a farm of nearly 80 acres was occupied are a profitable source of income to many when sometimes a hundred will by the factor, Robert Scarth, while the house of Saville, with lands be got in a single night and sold for a sixpence each or more. The record around, was occupied by the Rev. Walter Traill of Westove, and both places“ night was when Thomas Scott, Thrave, Nester, caught 114 while another together were valued at £130 yearly. It appears that the superior duties man brought in 83. had been purchased from the Earl of Zetland, so that the burdens of Along by Scar House, the Links, and the Point of Rive there are a few stipend, school salary, etc., only amounted to about £70. The net land things of some interest, at least, to a stranger. The “Knowes o’ Huckland” rent of Burness then was £571. From the Valuation Roll, published for is like an old Picts’ house and seems to be a fine place for the native sheep 1906, we see the annual rental value has been doubled. Saville is a large to “smoor” in when the waters rise. The grass is plentiful all around and three storied house with a high wall enclosing what was said to have been horse may feed there at a shilling a month! There is another kind of_ grass the finest. garden in the island. Here the Rev. W. Traill lived instead of at called “bent”, long and coarse, which-grows in great abundance in this '11 10
the‘Manse. Near by are the buildings belonging to Beaness and Langskail. 2. CROSS Otterswick Bay has a beauty of its own but the sea has made great inroads This Parish is called Cross, or according to the old documents, Holy upon the land, while roots of trees have been found, verifying the old Cross - “Parochia Sancte Crucis.” In these modern and secular days the tradition that a forest once existed here. At present people console them- adjective somehow has been allowed to drop, but the ‘Cross’ remains to selves with the indisputable fact that the biggest and best rabbits are found S G I remind us of Roman Catholic times. By 1627 we read of the Crose Kirk in this district. and Parochin.” In the island of Westray there are two old parishes and When Mr. Patrick Neill visited this quarter in 1804* he gives an interest- kirks having the same names as in Sanday —- Cross and Lady. The Cross ing reminiscence about Scar and the “Savil boulder” as it has been termed Kirk in Westray was situated near the shore of the Bay of Skea and is now by Tudor. “We visited the house of Scarr, the seat of Mr. Traill of in ruins, although about a hundred years ago, or more, worship was conducted Westove, who resides on his property, and is engaged in inclosing, draining there. At Stenness also the old Kirk was called after the Cross. In South and other improvements. Here we were happy to find a most extensive Ronaldshay, at Sandwick, there was an old chapel which went by the name and well-chosen library, which must be a source of great pleasure to an 4 -- --- ;—- ~ 7 -...._;?_1| 1" In <1-I _- ‘i ‘I __- _ '_. Iii _ _ — ; --xi _ ~ _ 1*" f _ j *__ - — '——-—— — 1 ' -' _ -_ ._'-_ !\_'._'.' -~': ‘._ '- ‘ ... '. .._.' .r;' . .._ .: . ._ -_“'-_;' - .7 -. '~; . . _ . .._.-_ ___-- -..._._ ..-._ ...... -..- .-.. _ ..._...... _....._'-_ ...-._ -----,_~:.-_..=-._.“_;_..._ .. .- - --_. .- enlightened mind, during the dreary months of winter, in this lonely - - . . _ - .__. _-_.. 1:; .-__.'.._: __:.?__._ __.-__‘_ ___-. -'*‘.._¢_.*'.___ __;_;__ ,______. . __ _ -' _ . _ .7-_1_-____.._--— -|- hi“ .>_--._'_'______1-_._._..-_-_--_--_--__- -i‘_¢. ___...-...__.....v.->i.—-_-' .=.-_,-;,--___-__-_i-4'-l v~ _-'4"7;‘..-_' : _' -s__-“ _;. .~ _ . ___ . _-_...... -....._ -...... _.-_-_ -‘-...... _ -_.._...._,.'.-_—.:_,.___-.-___. --- . -...-- _-_.-V _ -_____ . ___...... ___ _ _ - -- ..- ._,_"=-. .____.----.-.>:_....__,_...____..‘-'_'_--‘-.:..'...-.._.,__._.-___._---__-_-=:'-T.-=--__..-:'..__-_..-._-.:- 7;__...__- _-...:_. . _ ~ _-_.____:-_ _ _ . ___-__ ,_,._,. ._-__ _...... _._.. .. ._. _.' _. _ _ _ 1 ._ .1 _:;fli insular situation.” He then tells something about the boulder —- “In a . _ . - - ~ - '_:.r..?_-—-,-_-:_,-.- ___.-_.:_."....:"-—.,-_- _-;__~i ..._-.:_:.'T._._...-"- '.;- .-—:1.-'*-."'~------. -, - ._-_._.__..___._.-L‘. . .. -.___.__,,,__...-..._-:-.r'.:---...-_.'._:.____.___.'.._.'.__.. _._._ 1--;__,_. _ .- _ __ . _ - ' . -___-2 : .:-1 _ ";;--:"'..-_-~' -_,.- -..- .. - ._ . .. . ' . - _...... _ ._ . . . _ _. . ,_..__,.-_.. ._.. -..._._.. ___ -. _._.- -_.___=- ---__ . ___. ., ._ ..,.__._.. - - . ~_—;_ ;-_-;__ -__ .- ___,__»--=-;,—;:..-....-;_,_---_:'.rr.:-__,,._,_,_,.-....._-...---.__.. _.._'—. ;;, -;_—— ...-_.r:._::----»-:. _ ___ ...... _,...... _.>_-__ .-._._ ..__. _ --... ._ -- . .. ..-- meadow, near the place called Saville, about half a mile from the Church _____ ...... _. . . -.._,..-___.__...,__-.---_.._,,.-.-..._.--..__ .._-...--_,...._._._._.- --—_-;-=--...._--_-..-...___...... ______-.... .-_ _.___. .. _- .. .. . ' ~ _ -_;_- ----__'__. _..___-_._.....1:; '1: --_:.. _.:_1.-::__. ..__ ;----=-,=¢_ if-'37:; '--_ ' _-___-__.."7:~ .-. __ _ I -' '-=1.__ ._:.;---.—""'-___-;-gg,;-=_——--___---,~-z'E'E’-‘;'";;'-=";"'.:_'.-_---._.-5 _=-:- ;:"'- 1.7:: .~-._-.";~-r. ;_ ' —.:.‘.- . _ ,_:~ .-.~_-'~. . . ii _. . '_';_.’;-1"“'- _¢_-w_-;u_n|-,4-L-_-_€-17;-_-—:E_'1:_—_"._— ' < _ _ , .',T' - 3.",_ - ' r " '1'-'-111?-Z--‘5——?--' -.--- ..‘-..>:.1-'r;".:r.-_'-_~ -_:.- - . ':.-_: :-.-1 . - -* of Burness, Mr. Traill showed us a large moorstone, or isolated mass of ' ' ' _-_=_,-.1 ‘.'E.=.';i-'; "-.;;.".-‘-.-=..h:.-. 212 1.? ;§ .'..'."_ -.'.:'.'—_ "' --. . ' '_ l - ‘ "'_?;-,_1='-'-.:"~“--1 -1-"'—_'.-1--F-='...'._'-*"..rE7l'1%' '5'-I '—-7' "' ' if-'I‘ 1 I - - _-____,_-__,__,_,__ -1-__-;.1-_-'._..______.:v..-Y _.-...;=-;-__-;-__ -.._- _-_.;,_-_...... _..--___._..._....._ .. -._=-_-.__. .--_. » -___—;g;—__"..; .1-...... ;..'—'._..' ' ;___..---_ ‘ ...... ___. ..- - .. ...-...... _ __.._.-._...=_...____, -._._..._.._._=...-L...___...._...--_. .___-1--___:.. ..;--;--_- _____ primary rock. The whole island of Sanda is composed of secondary rocks .2": .;::: -'-_.":-_-1-___,--'——' '... .'- _._-. .'._..''...._r ___. --- _- -_---_7 -___-- ' =~-"'-' ".1-___.-='€;"’=F—'? "’4-'3"-.‘.'-L".?i'.-"'T'=E"'E'??Z'_=5'£'I-.7-“LII--. _'1II—'*‘-"_'r.':--""_: .- . _ . _ _ _. _ --1;.=I:- ¢-_- ;-.:£.'.-::_-‘__—_.'.-:'.-‘,"fi--.-_;:.;-‘="=:'.-;:-;":::._—-=E':‘.T'_*-"-_-‘;T='—._..;-z..—.‘;-_""-'-r ---_='-_.='-""-“—':'?r':~_?_' -- ' __ ‘ -'-__-3::-' ' - | l __ _ __ ._ . ;; -..._. ;-; ..._--q...--_--__.__._.:_ .. . »--—-..-__;_.- .1 " ' -'1" '1 .::;"'“-' ;'-5'.-.'?'...... -—'.._..$"'-.'..—.:.-.-"_':;:_-:1 -:.-.";- -:-"L-'-*1 ' -q __; _ z-. ‘._ _.:;.;.;___-_1.;-;~1‘¢E r_'_.“=;.1--r;:.. . I - sandstone, sandstone flag, and limestone. The solitary exception in '- .2-.-.:''2‘ '-'1' --:..;r.::'.:.~—~-'."_|=;t:._§'-: ';-'._?__‘¥_-...-;:---_--..=;-..-;_"'-.;-;-.'='*=-"-::‘-1;:-=_;f=.—-_,._..., _.":';.'."....-" .-_-...' .';- _;--- 1-’ - _ -r _ _ ' ."..:-..='::-'-'=_.-—""".-51%-_._..—;-;::-:1-.~-..;.-_-2;";-_. --r _-'- _ ' . I. 1..-;:_;.§:.-=-:_"§._=- .:':':.--.:.--.-_--.»'i'--‘;~'=!“-_'“--—;:.;'7___ ...... _:'_-__%_-;'=__:;-- --_'f§_'_. {T5 :-—--=_"-;_--_.-- question seems to be a mass of gneiss. We endeavoured to estimate the " I .-' -. -: ' - .-I - = ' " -E -;-:.-:%:_--_--'.-':'.- —-.:_T.-:21-I-.'==?_-.:-.-‘-'.'-'§i.-'3': '- . _ ;*:.':.-_‘:r; 'T. ' . "- -- -J . . -1-::e‘..-..__ _-.-:1-_r..-___....-1-_.»r.:-'..-._ - _— - __—.-_'- .- - . . A -_':-_"_"_—_: ._¢_.,;..._.___--.-__._.-.—-:=':.;—:_-3_.:_._._. ;_;______-_..__._ _....~~. _ . _- .-_ -_ _.., _:.._-- ;.. ._ _. .:_‘_;____.::. . _ _. gross weight of the mass, and calculated it to be about 14 tons. This --,,1-—--- : .._:.-..-. 5._—- - ' i -' ‘=1 4- . .' moorstone we considered as one of the most uncommon mineralogical appearances in Orkney; the nearest primary rocks being at Stromness, I which is above thirty miles distant, and several rapid firths intervening.” I Professor Heddle, according to Tudor, examined this rock minutely and I suggests that it may possibly be of Scandinavian origin. This “Savil boulder” measures above ground 6% x6 x 2% feet, but its base is buried
underneath the surface. Since then the “erratic” has been removed to the ' Mr grounds belonging to Scar house where it is a more -conspicuous object. But '-i:":..§.’”:'¢-- its removal from the Park of Saville, that part called the “coo’s moo”, was ‘Ir ‘\@I Ti‘ __ _ 1. J" _-" I.“-#1; 5 "'!'I'lI¢5'-II Q.-'—- ’ ; “-3 H I‘ N -1|||,;m,;-‘-;_-1,;-§;|m_|__ _ n I k"“I"'___ _""“_ -_.J -. -__ __ -I!--. -|¢I1l$- no easy task, when the weight and bulk of the stone are taken into considera- "‘—- . t-' ‘ - I _ . ‘Jp -|au|.s:.- ---.: -FR» at H H - -.-.s_____‘_;"‘_.g=,:'_fi’-' -an-|____'l-:;_,’_‘_ :-r ‘ '-._:;..;.;: -amp _, -1:.‘ ._.""" ' '1"-ll.--» , ,- 1|-u-P»-. 'I'\~|r -1|--,,."' "31"" ‘-1' g: ea.-,.. tion. As one man remarked -— The greater part of two summers (1879-80) I-H p __.“3.H IQ‘ I h-L _: '=_"'|'\r" ..--1,, - -3.;F ”'r""'- _ l-- 1* was taken up with the work, about 50 men were engaged, and three good ll,F‘! horses spoilt. This big ornament adds to the interest of Scar House. ._": 7 . - -‘fix’ -,\ ‘s ...\ ‘ “It is curious to observe with what dexterity the islanders guide IIICTI-Il;_IldS0l1‘l6-IOOICIIlg I H __ _ 1 .y,-if l V .. .__| v|[- H __ - . _. 2" "-1%-»1l ',4"-*. 1 -.5! ' - and neatly rigged yawls through the breakers of the Roost.” ""'- _ _-- _ 1 ‘rt ,;"'J'¢7 l'-J‘_,'|l" 5 II‘; '3“;" I "~--- - -5 = M -1 r P 1...‘‘s A‘ ' ~' it; .-;\ \ vim‘I-I ' r-= . -~I , - - .. --4,0 _~ v J .- { ' . ~.-‘.\ . ~- .,J 1...,' » - of Holy Rood, which, of course, means the same as Holy Cross. In __-_- § .' " '1. . " ‘-1, | . - J - ,_‘ 1 ‘J isfinal,» -I ' ‘Ii . I1. “I, -., , ._ . - ‘ ' -.jl - _ ... ,_ . '-‘-fie_-l ' r.‘ ‘[1’, I l__ _ 2‘ .- __' 7*“? - '._ - ’ Shetland the name has been applied to various kirks, as the Cross Kirk of pti- |_ _ I ' -
‘B ‘ ' I / r I ‘Q “,
~ J Ie 3 Dunrossness, Northmaven, and Haroldswick, Unst, as well as to the Cross -- ,\ -. '_* __"~ . ___ — ~1.Pf:,2 '__1. -. T"-‘ ___ Goe, and the Cross Isle. Throughout Scotland there are many places “y._
- " __ 17:“--~.___ -t..¢_ 5'I-I7-_ named after the Cross, such as Cross Michael in Kircudbright, Cross Raguel, _.|I ';/-. __ at:-;._ Ills?-..' M“""""J‘p--" ~._..;--ear.‘-=-v-;51>.".,!‘Y'_ ___f’\-3';-it-IT?-F:-g_'__>.,_-' __ ~' . -.-. _ , -- _ ' t 3- "l"’:*:.:----..‘ma;-—-_‘»-. a ruined abbey near Maybole, while in almost every town or village there ' 4 G it ' . I -' ’“__=_‘.,._‘ '_'-T" _ .2 I I ' _.-__ I 1| ‘ Ill I 1 ___ T: ~ ‘.;-_-. : ‘ vi ‘V It’ l:i i ilj. I _'~ “__‘_ n I was wont to be a Market Cross. In Kirkwall there is still seen standing, vI. V ' ' :,'_'i.< ' ' . I lI ‘ ' ' \ vb-;_-|'\."||.“‘;.\‘.-‘"‘~. _' ,{ ’h A’ I “ll - » .'|~'.-y'1':l\:"U”‘ ‘.1 I beside the Cathedral, the stone cross, bearing the date 1621 which date is | . _ ’ |'Pr"' _| , ‘ ' ' ‘I I .1 1-&:,Iii'r_/. /f‘- _ '\-.,-_ F‘;-;I:‘i\.-'_—-*2 '\ ‘I| -um,3l--lwIon.I ._‘_ _ . . ,.l_1jli.‘._, .1”? . believed to mark its restoration by Bishop Graham, the stone itself being " l.ll| ’ Jl I _ | - __ -v much older. In Norse days, it is said, the cross or “corss” was used only as .' ', .1".-r the signal for purely ecclesiastical Things or meetings; but, in after times I “...and three good horses were spoilt.” when the islands became subject to the Scottish Crown, it was used for all *A tour through Orkney and Shetland chiefly in connection with natural history. assemblies. ' Mr. Neill was Secretary of the Natural Society of Edinburgh. -I3 12 . Both the name and the symbol of the Cross came to be regarded as observe with what dexterity the islanders guide their handsome-looking sacred by Christians. Since Christ was transfixed to the Roman Cross on and neatly rigged yawls through the breakers of the Roost.” And the same the Hill of Calvary the badge of shame and scorn has become transformed writer goes on to say —- “The land in Cross rises at two points to more than into that of glory and honour. Jesus redeemed the Cross from its ignominy 3(_)0 feet above the sea, and the surrounding islands, sounds, firths, and bays, as well as the simier from his iniquity. Paul gloried in the cross. After a with the green and generally fertile plains of Sanday itself, present, from time the symbol came to take the place of the reality, the material or these points, one of the most delightful views the eye can rest upon. One of outward cross instead of the spiritual. In the second century Christians these heights, called the Brae of Fea, falls only a very little distance often prayed with arms extended putting themselves into the form of a towards the west, when it terminates in a precipice washed at the bottom cross. The Emperor Constantine’s great victory over Maxentius in 321 by the sea, and perforated by curious caverns; while on the east side the was largely due to the vision he had of the cross in the heavens the night slope 1S gentle and covered with rich pasture grass, enamelled with the field before the battle. The three words above the flaming cross were — “By gentian, the bird’s eye primrose, the squill, and other flowers, until its this, conquer” — and conquer he did. Then he caused crosses to be reaches the reedy edge of Bea Loch on the property o_f How.” Tudor’s erected in public buildings and highways to commemorate the event. Soon account of the height of the land is somewhat lower than the above when after, in 326, the Empress Helena, the mother of Constantine went to he remarks -— “A range of low hills runs from the Bay of Brough to the Jerusalem in search of the true cross, and is said to have found the three southern end of Cross Parish the highest point of which, Stove Hill (249 crosses. The Saviour’s Cross was discovered by its miraculous healing feet), is at the extreme south.” Some parts of this parish deserve more power, for no sooner had a sick lady touched it than she was healed. than a passing reference. The bays of Stove, Backaskail, and Otterswick are This story has been styled the “Invention of the Cross.” Then in 982 said to produce enormous quantities of shell-fish, in fact, the first of these we have Saint Adalbert the Apostle of the Prussians who preached with is “one continued cocklebed.” There is also the curious rock called great success, casting himself on the ground in the form of a cross, and Heclabir on the west shore of the farm of Stove, styled by Tudor a “huge claiming the land for Christ. He was murdered in 997. In Roman Catholic mass of plum-pudding stone,” and supposed to be of volcanic origin. It times crosses became as numerous as the stars and were regarded as is a ridge of rocks shelving to the sea for about 200 feet. But Mr. Neill symbols of the faith. Parishes and churches were called by this name and who visited the place said —- “We soon found that its only volcanic different saints even came to have different varieties of crosses, as the St. resemblance consisted in the similarity of its name to that of the great Andrew’s St. George’s, St. Martin’s (in Iona), and the Latin Greek, and volcano in Iceland: for the rock of Heclabir is nothing else than a breccia; Celtic Crosses. The beautiful legend concerning the Crossbill as taken most of the component pieces of which are rounded and waterworn from Longfellow, bears on this subject:— nodules of sandstone. The pieces are of different sizes, from balls of 3, 5, or 10 lbs weight, to such as are the size of sparrows’ eggs. A few quartz “Stained with blood and never tiring, With its beak it does not cease, and calcareous nodules are interspersed.” The Cave of Helzie Geo is found From the cross ’twouId free the Saviour, , A on the south side of the Bay of Brough, but can only be entered by a boat. ~___,
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" LADY KIRK PARISH
R,- Most likely the kirk baptised the parish -- hence the name Lady Kirk. L 3*r V“‘¢FIQ 9 Perhaps, there was no parish proper until the kirk was founded. The order ‘il""!. is lost in the mists of antiquity, but the power of the Romish Church has evidently impressed itself on this island as well as on Westray and South ‘n Ijnflmllf T Ronalshay, judging from the names of the parishes and churches. At ~ / what date or in what manner Romanism reached Sanday cannot now be 1......
.v known. There is little doubt, however, that this island was for a consider- -*';"7!l"’--".-—- -K‘ , ., _-I able time the headquarters of Popery in the North Isles. According to Rev. I-7'-"r = itXi Walter Traill in his “Account” of 1840 — “The parish takes its name from ' *9-’ .-|.-- -n'.. .'. ' . “...as lots of curious things have been found among the heaps of stones.” the church called Lady Kirk, or the Kirk of our Lady, evidently dedicated in Catholic times to the Virgin Mary. It consists of several districts or to him be my Lord Kinclewin. quho is taksman of the said parochin; thir sub-divisions, as follows, - Elsness, Overbister, Coligarth, Tressness, teyndis of old did belang to the prebendar callit Sacrista, quho was one of Newark, Selibister, Northwall. Each of these districts was probably, in the chapter, thir teyndis was sett in tak be winquhile Robert Earle of ancient times, a separate distinct parish.” And Dr. Wood’s remarks on Orknay to Androw Edmestoun, and he disponit thame to Johnne Lord the antiquities of this part of the island is of special interest :- “Religious of Kinclewin; all the landis within this parochinne they pay their dewtie buildings were formerly pretty numerous in this parish, in general, they to his Majestie conforme to the rentall, and are nott abill to pay any more, were only small chapels, at least we have not now the remains of any large and many yeirs ar not abill to pay the present rent quhilk are upoune religious edifice. Nothing now is left of them, save their foundations them. The fardest rowm of this parochinne is distant from the kirk three overgrown with grass and weeds. They are all surrounded by, or in the *According to Tudor, “the word ‘hill’ in the case of hill trows or hill spirits, has immediate vicinity of, good land, and generally near a well or fresh water nothing to do with hill or mountain, but is said to come from the Ice., hilda, unseen. loch. None of them are to be found on the moor or hill ground. Several These evil spirits were of two kinds — “Hill”and “Water” Trows, to which has been added a “Kirk” Trow even “waur” than the others. ' I .7 I6 two steps cut in the rock. The length of the passage was 19% feet; height, of them have been built close by the ruins of other buildings; such situa- 3 feet; width, about 1 foot 9 inches; diameter of the well, 3 feet; from the tions may have been chosen, from the ready access to stones which they roof to the bottom of the well, 3 feet 6 inches. Several small pieces of afforded; or the devout men engaged in the conversion of the Orcadian decayed oak were found in the passage. The well contained a very little heathens to show their utter abhorrence of the ancient superstition, may water and mud. At a few feet distance from the entrance to this passage a have errected their chapels on the very ruins of the temples of Odin. None causeway was discovered fomied of rounded stones from the beach, and of these chapels have exceeded twelve feet in length, and from eight to laid with great care, the stones in the centre being set upright, those on each ten feet in breadth. Foundations of them may be seen at Northwall, side sloping towards the centre. The causeway was 4 feet broad; it Newark, Cleatt, Tressness, Overbister, Coliness, and other places. It is .,______. -—- _ - — _ - - _ --r .- :.- - - - - ~> ------1' -- -- w __o------—-. _ . ~ . iiiI __- ,_; .-_... likely they would all have been dedicated to some saint or other holy ." - - ' ' ___ ':_- ‘~ _ . .._
person; but tradition, which is very scanty here, has only preserved the . -. . 7- . - - 3 ‘- .."_'_. _—. -._. In ._ , _ - ' ‘-- ._|' - ,, ___ I-— _ ' names of three of them; Peter Kirk, or St. Peter’s Chapel (which has been ‘V \______V .. . '. . . ' - .§_,‘-;?- -' :. ." ' - . - - . . =-. -" - 1- - - of rather larger dimensions than the others), on the banks of Otterswick, } T , "IQ, _.“._ __l.-'.-, _'-_:.'=fe- 1-7 _ '.~':_'_§!;§_‘-:-—._-'.' _= l - - -___.— _ -I .—Z2 a-‘S’U_._- . .-_-___~ 7? ‘- -.-- - ._ _ :--- -:--_ -;- _ .~ ._E";-‘!'...-. ___ L.IE2."-_~_1==',__.—-.-.-.2,"---__ __ ‘___ 1- *"-— ' ‘ near Newark; the chapel or Arstar, close by the round towerlately ' 1- '- -_ 'E.:':_"I .____"I$.-. '._‘:'_'_ '4 -- I -. TR‘-._ __ " --._-__3."--'=.1\... .':_§.-i-- "-|i--if ‘ '.='-T_=‘*"lT"3" 1-’ ' I ll .' .- -‘ _... _\ " - ' 71,." " -_ ':_.;' - . 1- ‘ill?’-'-‘._ .='_-'_-*-3' "‘=-;-"—_-_:,_ -1'11-.-" - \ 1 J:_‘ Y-7. . discovered at Newark; and St Magdalen’s Chapel in Overbister. Fonts, or ______-: --: ___ -—- _-_. _ L _ ___; ___,-_— -,-in I. V 7 _ ___ _ " *;.T;-l-.'-:==.=.-'-*-'.'*.l.'-'=.'?13-"~‘-:'“-"- .- '-l/ _.-’*.‘-T- - ' - ~ " . -----_i¢.__ - - -'-";»'-.-.---I-E=.--- -r.--ii -: 1»_:-'.-.“"-E-‘-'-.">-i1'_=~e.-.-,,~=--;.-"-- .:r- .....'."_ :~.:'_ -‘J---'-1%-’-'7?-‘-51 '2‘-"' Z‘ n] ' - --'=. _' 'j -~ -— ' ‘ 1,. T". -- - _ -. *3-'-‘ . "..;.-"'-- ' -I_ "*“'- .-- '1 \ ' ' holy water basins, have been found at several of them. These fonts are - .- :—_:;. ‘~ .“’~'-"' :.'-' -7-‘ .-"-'--" ' . ‘"'::_. '--- Kw - '- -" ""‘ __ - rt:-1 J -T‘-< -._-. ' if '5'," . '.- ._'.:':.' "F Q‘ 331-3?-.3 " ' - - '- £.;- .-_- ‘r__- - - z;--- —.' . ---.._'_ -_-_--_—_. .,. __'- "7.. ..’.". -r — - I . . "__ .- .\;- . . - *-. -_-; f-J _,_ _=-._ —
5- __;-.-_ out on one side. On examining the small portions left of the walls of the ' .‘ -___‘--_~ chapels, they are found to be cemented with clay; some of them have been plastered inside with lime. - “In the spring of 1826, While removing some large stones which impeded the operations of the plough, nearthe foundations of a chapel in Over- 4*, ,4- bister a long subterranean passage was discovered, which -.-., erminated in a circular cavity. The bottom and sides of this passage were formed of the solid .., \ k rock, as well as the cavity at its extremity,
which has likely been intended for a well; the _ ' ~ ~""- 1 ll.-“ix ___.-.. ._--_ ‘ mi
top or roof of the passage was carefully ——-- . _ _ _'__.-.
covered with flagstones, and above was -1- -1-‘ the natural soil. The entrance to - - the P335389 was 19% feet? he18ht> my ovum Strong punch is passed round during the evening 'a:.~5"__:[;-'2? F-=;-"___. I:9-1.__E>~f_'_I>__ commenced at the chapel, and ran in a straight line to the westward for llllr' ' --' ‘-?'~f-':'- ' -1-‘: - . 30 or 40 yards; it then turned to the south, and was traced in that direction for about 60 yards. It most probably, at one time, led to a small loch, which l'rv\ /k/’ is about 200 yards distant from the site" of the chapel. Tradition gives no ,'.-:“_'.;:;.';r§{-j_3_:|'?l;.‘_'.-1'-',{:'_ __- '_ .-_: -lfll-1', -'37. .-_';~.’.7 name to this chapel. The small hillock was known to the old people by the .3 .- .' - 4" --,1 1 /J name of Carse of Henzie Hunt. St. Magdalen’s Chapel stood about 200 ,- 50/ yards noth of this. No graves are to be found near any of these chapels, unless at one built on the ruins of the burgh of Coliness. This chapel has been built at the south-east comer of the ruins of the burgh. Its length _ was 12 feet; breadth little more than 8. A stone 2 feet long, 10 inches in thickness, and as many in breadth, was found in this chapel. One side of
Ln,-. thisstone was covered with small circular holes, about one inch in depth,
""2-%'.‘_'_;__ H-—""I"'f and straight lines were cut from one hole to another; the holes were not
. .. 2";-"-IL..' "_- -...__-1 — ad ._. __ -“"1 ~—f--:2--4..----.... 1.. ,_.__ — arranged in any regular order. The use of this stone must remain unknown. :2. 1 - - ..l-12... ._.... :,'f4¢:¢=- _ .--,-1.-\--u .-it .-_ _ ___ -‘. _ At a very short distance from the west end of the chapel, a number of apqul-Ifi~ K, ,,_ . L _ I _'* -_~- __-'11‘ .;. ___ ‘___’-Y V _. , _-."'33==“"'.- ,. .-.153’: ii i"s:"“"--"3i"rZ%.-5 *AW H _._>__'_.i_-‘__ _| ‘I _"?_,___:?-‘,.:;-I“ _____ -4-:1-. -‘___. . graves were discovered, all were lined with flagstones. None of them 7*" "" ""' _ _ ~.'~- -'~.-.s-' . .~.... 4,-._ -_ ._ ' 1- 1*.‘-'7 _i - -_ _A _ J»- 3 ______l_~ "-7' 1 ' ». _T '_ ' . T _ _, (>.-"3-' .._,...._._....,.,_....-...... -__ ...... --.-.-. -r-- were above two feet under the surface of the ground. They were close it Many of the skeletons were pretty entire; they were lying with their heads to the west. ” ' I 9 1 8 together in rows, forming the divisions between the graves. Many of the pay no due to I-Iis Majesty, but all dues to the feuars reserving ten pounds skeletons were pretty entire; they were lying with their heads to the west. paid to the prebendar in name of feu duty. Also, there are lands belonging All were on their right sides, with the knees a good deal bent. One of the to Saint Salvator’s stouk, which is in laic patronage, given out of the house skulls had a long wound on the upper part of it. A gold iing, rather larger of Halcro, and feued by them to the late Malcolm Groat of Tankemess, than a finger ring, was found in one of the graves; but the boy who found it, and left by him to his son John Groat, who has taken the said stouk* broke it, to ascertain its composition. I saw only a small fragment of it. “holden of new” of the laird of Halcro; in Owerbuster and in the town of On the flag which formed the south or right side of one of these graves How. Again, there are lands called the Parson’s lands, lying about the there was a very rude attempt at carving a cross Calvary. The upright kirk, feud of old before the Reformation by the late John Laxwell, parson portion was 13 inches long; the cross beam, 9 inches. More curious of the said Lady parish, to Master James Maxwell, paid to the parsons and discoveries might have been made here; but the search was discontinued.” ministers the whole victual due, which was paid of old; the lands are eight Lord Sinclair’s Rental Book of 1502 gives “Parrochia Sancte Marie in penny in Marikirk, and three penny in Ellisnes. Sanday,” and speaks of -- “This Set and Rentale of our Lady perrochin in *The word “Stouk” is said to be from the old Norse Stuka,.a chapel — primarily Sanday maid at Clat the xp day of Junij,” while in the Rental of King and it means a “sleeve”, hence something jutting out from a main structure. The chapels m St. Magnus Jutt out in this way. The chapels generally contained an altar. Bishop lands of 1595, there is “Parrochia Beatae Mariae,” and “Gardemelles, The word “stouk ’ is found in 1609 when Patrick, Earl of Orkney, grants discharge alias Mary-kirk.” The “Report of the Estate of the Isle of Sanday, 26th to one for the “devoties of St. Peter's Stouk in Fair Iyle.” It may be a “small June, 1627,” was drawn up at “Mari Kirk” and signed by “Mr James Cok, regpéipe or titllrling pr a collecting box for donations in the name of St. Peter.” See minister at our Lady Kirk,” and others. There is a great deal said about - ore — o. . this Kirk and Parish which might be summarised thus - There are three parish kirks in this isle, “Mare Kirk, Saint Combs Kirk, and the Croce Kirk,” the number of communicants in “Our Ladie” parish are 320; the length of the parish is 5 miles, the breadth is three quarters of 1 mile; the kirk stands in the south end of the parish; the farthest “roumes” from the kirk are in distance 5 miles. The kirk, “ane kirk of dignitie, callit the Chancellarie,” neither united to any kirk, nor any kirk united to it; the . ; . minister has for his stipend the corn teinds of the said parish (except Saint Augustine prebendary) with the small teinds of the said Isle, which “maks the dignitie of the Chancellarie.” In this parish and isle there is neither school, nor provision, nor foundations, “bott there is necessitie of ane,” no chaplainries, no friars lands, but some prebendaries stouk and kirk lands, as, Saint Augustine’s stouk, consisting of the corn teinds of -I Lopness, wais and costs, (duty paid .in kind, as meal and malt) which —,— -"!l§v" prebendary was in the old erection appointed for the maintenance of the 0- “Sang Scholl” of Kirkwall, set in tack by Robert, Earl of Orkney, to David Scollay, prebendar, and left by him to his lateson, Matthew Scollay, and “disponeit” (conveyed) by him to the late Patrick, Earl of Orkney, _ I '
__.--- ___, .---.-nr-qI-@- ___ who died in possession thereof, his tack being expired, and now is in His -_,_,.--I-I .- Majesty’s possession, paid yearly to His Majesty’s chamberlains in rent . _,_ .._-...... - -4» ulw-h
-;_'|.':l‘I1I":fir-Y-_"'_-_I?? three chal ders of bere. More, the said stouk consists of lands in Lopness, _"I:l".,_-.._--I" __..,. -9___._ --'-—' -..' _ ___. __ - __-- 4;||:|'----—_-.-.-._:.._..____-—-?-____ Wais and How, and in Langtas. There are also lands belonging of old to ‘F-_ 1: _- ,_- the Archdeacon of Zetland set in feu by him to the laird of Asilmountt, 1-,-.-er; fl_,.¢-nk- and set by him in “wodsett” (in payment of a debt) to Malcolm Sinclair 5- .__._ ; . _-_.. > __- ______... ‘in of Quandill, and left by him to his son George Sinclair, who has the said .,./' lands in present possession; in Langtas, in Arstas, in Cleatt, and in the town of How. More, there are lands pertaining to Saint Katherine’s \ “Ta ta tae Sanday” prebendary, set in feu by Archibald Balfour, and by him to the late Henry Sinclair of Cowquoy, and left by him to his son William Sinclair, lying within the town of Liwisgarth, and the town of How: these lands 21 20 . '