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ORCADIAN CHRONOLOGY INTRODUCTION - HISTORY &

BC 1471 Act of Annexation to 1857 Roads act Vikings". The Norse domi- c.10000 Ice retreats 1486 made a Royal Burgh 1858 Bridge at Ayre Mills closes nation lasted six hundred c6000 Grassland, hazel-scrub, ferns Cathedral to Kirkwall Corporation off Oyce years and this influence is cover islands 1492 Columbus reaches America 1859 First "Orcadia" steamship for c5000 First people arrive?? 1513 Henry Sinclair II killed at Flodden North Isles still strong in the isles today. 3900 First known settlers 1528 Battle of Summerdale 1862 cleared out Orkney was of great strate- Vegetation becoming more open 1540 King James V visits Orkney 1865 Junction Road, Kirkwall, built gic importance during 3800 Climate deteriorates 1541 Bishop Reid extends Bishop's Palace First steamship to North Isles 3600 oldest deposits 1560 Noltland started for 1867 First lifeboat Viking times, and the 3200 oldest deposits Gilbert Balfour 1870 J&W Tait founded exploits of the Earls and 3000 Chambered Tombs being used 1567 Norse laws ratified by 1867 First Stromness lifeboat “Saltaire” their supporters are related , Standing Scots Parliament 1874 First Longhope lifeboat colourfully in the Stones 1574 Earl's Palace, , built 1879 Kirkwall waterworks installed c.2750 Maeshowe built 1581 Robert Stewart made Earl of 1887 Stromness Herring fishery starts . 2700 Start of Great Age Orkney 1890 Mermaid at Newark, 2600 Not many trees left 1588 Spanish survivors said to settle 1892 SS St Ola I starts her long service Later medieval times saw a 2500 Skara Brae last occupied in 1908 Stromness herring boom over large influx of Lowland c.2000 Sandfiold burial 1590 First inn at Stromness 1913 Peak of herring boom Moonrise at the Ring of Brodgar Knowes o’Trotty 1600s Stronsay herring fishery 1914 “Electric Theatre” opens Scots due to the close prox- 1300 Peat bogs developing becoming important 1915 First Great Skuas breed In "What is an Orcadian?" The Bronze Age succeeded imity of and then annexation 1159 Hekla erupts 1607 Earl's Palace finished, Kirkwall 1916 HMS Hampshire sunk George Mackay Brown con- the and these peo- by Scotland. Orkney gradu- 700 Iron Age round houses 1614 besieged 1917 HMS Vanguard blows up cludes by calling him, "A ples left behind burnt 600 Oldest deposits 1615 Patrick & Robert Stewart execut- 1919 German Fleet scuttles itself ally became more of a back- c.325 Pytheas circumnavigates Orkney ed, Castle demolished, Cathedral saved 1920 N Zealand Wild White Clover fine mixter-maxter!". This is mounds, , cist and water and suffered as a 214 Great Wall of China constructed 1633 Carrick House built introduced literally true, as Orkney, at barrow graves as as result of exploitation by 100 in use 1666 Great Fire of London; 1937 End of Stronsay herring boom the cross-roads of the ruins of small houses. This AD Newton realises gravity of situation 1939 World War II, Scottish Earls as well by the 33 Death of Christ 1679 Wreck of the Crown, Deerness sinking of "HMS Royal Oak" Atlantic, North Britain and period was marked by a "Merchant Lairds". Only in 43 Orkney said to submit to Claudius 1700 Hudson's Bay Company starts 1940 Work starts on Churchill Barriers the North Sea, has been on deterioration in climate and the 19th century were real 83 Agricola's fleet said to visit Orkney to recruit Orkneymen 1943 Italian Chapel started the seafaring map ever since changes in society as well as farming improvements to c.500 Celtic monks arrive 1705 Earl's Palace ruinous 1947 Albert Kinema burns down people started to go to sea in the appearance of bronze 600 start to appear in West 1721 Kelp-making introduced to isles 1951 MV St Ola II commissioned arrive ,when steam power 632 Death of Muhammad 1725 Pirate Gow captured at Calf Sound 1955 Phoenix Cinema opens boats. Many visitors have and weapons. finally made sea transport 793 Major Viking raids begin 1730 "Archie Angel" survives 1957 Base closes down come and gone over the mil- more regular. 800s Norse migration shipwreck, Westray 1959 Russia launches first satellite lennia, some staying to set- About 700BC larger round c.872 Harald Fairhair King of Norway 1743 Stromness becomes free 1967 Loganair starts inter-island service th Sigurd of Moere first Earl of Kirkwall taxes 1969 First landing on the Moon tle, others leaving only their houses started to appear and During the later 19 and then 955 Earl baptised 1763 Washington Irving's father 1972 Kirkwall lifeboat established genes. The regular input of later the spectacular brochs, the 20th century there have 1000 Leif Ericson discovers America arrives New York 1973 MV St Ola III start of ro-ro new blood and ideas has some with large settlements been the effects of the boom 1014 Thorfinn becomes Earl 1770 Grass, clover and turnip seeds 1974 formed ensured that the Orcadians around them, were devel- c.1030 Earl Rognvald Brusison introduced, farming reforms 1977 Oil Terminal starts up in Herring fishing, two first Earl to live in Kirkwall 1776 American Declaration of 1978 Orkney Norway Friendship Assoc are the versatile and wel- oped. The introduction of World Wars, further great s.1035 First St Olaf’s Kirk built Independence 1987 St Sunniva starts ro-ro link coming people of today. iron for tools and weapons strides in agriculture, North 1065 Earl dies 1789 First lighthouse lit on North to would have been a revolu- 1066 William - a French Viking takes Ronaldsay 850th anniv of Sea Oil and the influx of England 1794 Pentland Skerries lighthouses 1991 1st edition of this guide published After the end of the last Ice tion in itself. From about large numbers of mainly 1098 Magnus Barelegs expedition 1798 Highland Park distillery established Scar boat burial revealed by storms Age, about 13,000 years AD43 and later as part of the English immigrants, with 1115 Murder of Magnus c.1800 Ba’ game takes present form Ro-ro services to North Isles ago, nomadic Pictish Kingdom, Orkney the result that the population 1137 Foundation of St Magnus Cathedral 1809 First Kirkwall pier built 1992 St Ola IV enters service hunters arrived in Scotland. started to experience more 1151 Magnus relics transferred to Cathedral 1813 Martello started Orkney Ferries fully ro-ro to Isles decline has now reversed. Earl Rognvald goes to Holy Land Last Great Auk killed on Papay 1995 50th anniversary of Barriers By 4000BC, Neolithic farm- outside influence: Roman, 1171 Sweyn Asleifson killed at Dublin 1814 Stone of Odin destroyed 1997 2nd edition of Orkney Guide Book ers were well settled in Christian and Scots. Orkney now has a very 1188 Bjarni Kolbeinson bishop 1830 Collapse of Kelp Boom First Atlantic oil reaches Flotta Orkney and for over 1,500 diverse economy, mostly 1231 Last Norse Earl dies 1832 dyke built 1999 Pickaquoy Centre opens years their culture flour- Beginning in the 8th century (John Harraldson) First steamship visits Kirkwall 2002 Northlink takes over still based on its natural 1263 , King Haakon dies 1833 PS "Velocity" starts regular New pier at Hatston ished, leaving the villages, the Scandinavians began to assets, but increasingly 1290 Margaret, Maid of Norway, dies service to Kirkwall 2004 Stromness & Kirkwall marinas tombs and stone circles appear, probably not in huge depending on the ability of 1300 Dutch already fishing herring 1838 Kirkwall Gas Compamy formed ILS at Kirkwall Airport which we can see today and numbers at first. Large scale the Orcadians to adapt to 1379 Earl Henry Sinclair I 1847 Balfour Castle built New Kirkwall Library 1380 Kirkwall Castle rebuilt 1850 Skara Brae revealed after storm which are among the most migration took place during today’s changing world, just 2005 3rd edition of Orkney Guide Book th 1398 Henry Sinclair visits America?? 1855 Steamer between Stromness spectacular Neolithic monu- the 9 century, followed by as they have for at least the 1468 Impignoration to Scotland and Scrabster ments in Europe. the "Golden Age of the last 6,000 years.

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in the form of small stone thin, or non-existent the S M objects that have been effect was for the land to N found, particularly on sink, a process which is still ploughed fields. These are happening in Orkney today, nearly all "", with the result that here sea which are small but careful- level is several meters high- ly made flint tools. Many er than it was 8,000 years would have been mounted ago. The probability is thus on wood to make , that many coastal sites have scrapers, , har- been lost to the sea. poons and other useful things. Mesolithic worked It should also be noted that stone artefacts have been possible Mesolithic tools found in several locations in and evidence of earlier occu- “Microliths” of worked flint Orkney, but so far no settle- pation were found at the At the end of the last glacia- ly important to these people ment site has been excavat- lowest levels at several Carved stone objects from Skara Brae tion, the ice appears to have too, and it is clear that they ed. Neolithic sites. It thus island of Papay and dates reflect the work of a people receded first from the north- had access to capable boats seems that settlement from about 3600BC. The who had been settled for east of Scotland and the with which to move them- The microliths so far found in Orkney may extend back settlements at Skara Brae in some time rather than new islands, where it was less selves and their belongings include styles similar to further than it was thought. Sandwick, on arrivals. thick and melting aided by and to go fishing in deep Scandinavian and Scottish , Noltland on the sea and weather. It is not water. Vessels made with a finds. Much further investi- Neolithic Houses The Westray, Pool on Sanday The houses were quite clear where the first people light wooden keel and gation is needed to throw strong similarities between and Barnhouse in sophisticated, being built arrived from, but they may frames supporting a woven light on the situation, and it tombs and various artefacts all date from slightly later. with double-skinned drys- well have been sea-borne framework of withies and has even been suggested that in the North of Scotland and These are established settle- tone walls, packed between from Britain, Ireland, covered with stitched tanned perhaps our links with Orkney suggests that farm- ments, built by accom- and surrounded on the out- Denmark or even Norway. leather hides were frequent- Scandinavia may be older ing arrived via , plished stonemasons and side with . No other There are many early sites ly referred to in classical than we have so far thought! and that cultural links were on the Scottish coast, espe- times. Such boats would with Scotland during the cially on the west side and have been seaworthy and yet Sea level rose rapidly after Neolithic Age. Farming was on the Inner . The light enough to be easily the Ice Age, but probably well established in Orkney oldest so far found is from hauled up. Most important- reached today's level by at least 6,000 years ago. about 6000BC at Cramond ly all the materials needed 8,000BC. The huge weight One of the oldest standing near , while the for their construction were of the ice depressed the land, houses in Western Europe, nearest to Orkney are in easily obtained locally. which rose after the glaciers the Knap of Howar, is on the Caithness. had melted, a process called Bone tools from Skara Brae Most evidence from Orkney isostatic rebound. However Bone from Skara Brae Large whalebone pins found at Skara Brae Getting around was obvious- of these Mesolithic people is where the glaciation was sherds in Orkney Museum pottery from Isbister

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THE FIRST SETTLERS HISTORY & ARCHAEOLOGY S S S M M M H H H A A A C C C R R R

Knap of Howar House at Rinyo, Rousay House at Skara Brae from artefacts. Barley and incised markings have been these Neolithic sites. some Wheat were grown, found which resemble wick- while cattle and sheep plus er and the designs on Pottery The people at the some pigs, goats and deer pot rims. Remains of pots Knap of Howar in Papay were kept. Seabirds and fish varied from tiny to over used "Unstan Ware" pot- were also important. 60cm in diameter. Two dif- tery, named after the pots The Knap of Howar is the oldest stone-built house in Europe ferent types of pottery arte- found in Unstan Chambered similar stone houses remain resemble the later covering of leather and turf - In several places decorative facts have been found in in Stenness, but found in Britain, or indeed Europe, Maeshowe-type tombs. or even old boats! and their origin is thus Whereas elsewhere in Fuel would have been ani- obscure. However, the Britain plentiful timber mal dung, seaweed, turf, NEOLITHIC TIMELINE buildings at the Knap of would have been available driftwood, whalebone, but BC Howar have two interesting for construction, its lack in not much peat as this only c.11000 Orkney separated from features. There is a strong Orkney was made up for by started to develop much Scotland resemblance in shape and the excellent building stone. later. The houses had good, c.8000 First hunter-gatherers? internal features with some Since driftwood was very lined, drains and in Skara 3600 Knap of Howar oldest date of the early chambered likely available in quantity Brae were equipped with Unstan Ware pottery , and the outline is dis- they would have had wood- cells which were very likely 3200 Stalled cairns appear Isbister oldest date tinctly boat-shaped. en fittings, while whalebone toilets, store rooms or Maeshowe tombs appear may also have been used for pantries. There were stone- Skara Brae oldest date The later Neolithic houses rafters. Roofs quite proba- built dressers, beds and cup- 3100 Knap of Howar latest such as at Skara Brae have a bly used some of the boat- boards in the walls, as well Quanterness Cairn much more squared shape, building tradition with as a central fireplace. In all Grooved Ware pottery with built-in bed spaces, and woven willow supporting a cases the quality of the stone 3000 Standing Stones work is very impressive. It The large house at Barnhouse is 7m by 7m internally Quoyness Cairn Skara Brae phase II The houses at Skara Brae are joined by a central passage is easy to imagine the Skara Brae 1 showing , dresser, beds and stone furniture 2800 Maeshowe built domestic life of the inhabi- Ring of Brodgar built tants. 2600 Woodland virtually gone 2500 Cairns latest date Above all, these people had Skara Brae latest a good and stable standard of living, and had time and NEOLITHIC DOMESTIC energy to build elaborate SITES TO VISIT tombs like Maeshowe, as Stenness Barnhouse well as monuments Sandwick Skara Brae like the Ring of Brodgar. Rousay Rinyo Nothing is known of their Westray Noltland links language or culture, except Papay Knap of Howar that which can be gleaned Sanday Pool

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in many others as well, land, birch-hazel scrub and similar to that of the early while those at the other set- ferns. After the arrival of 20th century. tlements used "Grooved man in about 4000 BC this Ware". This has been taken was replaced by more open Chambered Cairns are to mean that the former was vegetation - probably due to tombs which are characteris- in use before latter. their grazing animals and tic of Neolithic times. They Evidence from the site at clearing for cultivation. are stone-built and typically Pool in Sanday suggests that While there is no direct evi- have a central chamber with there was a succession in dence of manuring, it is hard an entry passage and some- fashions in pottery over the to believe that these people times one or more cells off centuries of the Neolithic did not notice the beneficial the main chamber. Upper floor of Taversoe Tuick period rather than separate effects of dung and seaweed traditions. on the land, especially given Orkney has a large number the evident importance of of these "houses for the Unstan is a typical stalled cairn with one side cell Burial of the dead was clear- the midding to them. dead", many of which are ly taken very seriously, and at people had short and ety was prosperous and well- well preserved, and well- least in some cases, excarna- unhealthy lives, but there is no organised rather than primi- The vegetation changes built. These tombs were tion was practised, where bod- evidence that this was univer- tive and subsistence only. started about 3800BC con- built by the Neolithic farm- ies were left for some time to sal. The fact that they were There are similarities between tinued for some time and by ers, the oldest date in allow the flesh to decay, and able to construct such elabo- pottery and other artefacts 2600BC there were few Orkney being from about rate monuments for their dead found in Portugal, southern only the bones were placed in trees left. Recent tree-ring Skull from the the tombs. Some studies of as well as impressive stone England, Ireland and Orkney, studies of old Irish Oaks these bones suggest that the circles suggests that their soci- suggesting that there were suggest that there was a sud- contacts with people in these den deterioration of climate areas. Little is known about during 2354-2345, which is the boats of the time, but ves- about the time of the latest sels able to transport people Neolithic dates. One theory Decorated stone from , Westray and their animals across the is that a large comet or aster- Pentland Firth or to fish off- oid struck Earth at this time, shore would have been more causing a nine-year winter. than adequate to undertake longer journeys as well. By 1300BC extensive peat bogs were developing, mak- Climate and climatic change ing much marginal land may well have had a lot to unworkable, and over- do with early settlement. whelming remaining wood- Analysis of pollen shows land. By this time the land- Knowe of Yarso on Rousay is a typical small stalled cairn that by about 5900BC the scape would have been very The Tomb of the Eagles at Isbister is also stalled, but has three side cells land was covered with grass- Unstan Ware pots - largest two from Unstan, small bowl from Taversoe Tuick Decorative stone-work resembling Unstan Ware pottery Midhowe on Rousay is very large S M N

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Brae and Knap of Howar. (St Ola) and Howe (Stromness) and the Orkney- The OC type, of which there Cromarty type cairn at are about 60 in Orkney, is Isbister () characterised by having yielded large quantities of upright "stalls" set into the human and animal bones, side walls, shelves at one or artefacts and other material both ends as well as some- from which much has been times along the sides and deduced about the lives of rounded corbelling for the the people buried there. At roofs. Low-roofed cells Pierowall (Westray) a proba- occasionally lead off the ble Maeshowe-type cairn main chamber. The pottery was discovered during quar- type found in these cairns rying, and yielded an intri- The reconstructed exterior of Quoyness on Sanday showing entrance passage was Unstan Ware. These are cately carved stone, now in wide, round bottomed pots, Museum, which The picture is of a hard life, CHAMBERED CAIRNS which may or may not be has similarities to markings with few people living TO VISIT decorated, and are also asso- at Newgrange in Ireland. longer than 30 years, and ciated with the Knap of most dying before 25. This is only a selection of the Howar in Papay, as well as most accessible and best-pre- Stonehall in Firth. served cairns. Others are mentioned in the sections for each parish or island. The MH type have rectangu- lar chambers with high cor- Bookan type Cuween cairn near is built with extreme care belled roofs, and cells which Sandwick Bookan 3200BC, and many contin- (OC) and the Maeshowe may also have high roofs, Rousay Taversoe Tuick ued in use for up to 800 Group (MH). The former but they lack the upright Huntersquoy years before final sealing. type is related to similar stalls of the OC type. They Orkney-Cromarty type Although there is a range of cairns in Caithness, while also tend to be built of larger sizes and design, there are the latter type is unique to stones, often very massive St Ola Head of Work basically two types: which Orkney. In many ways these and normally very well cut Stenness Unstan have been dubbed the tombs are similar to the con- Rousay Blackhammar and fitted together. There Taversoe Tuick Orkney-Cromarty Group temporary houses at Skara are only 12 examples of Exterior of Wideford Hill cairn looking towards Finstown and Cuween cairn Midhowe these unique structures. Knowe of Yarso Side cell at Wideford Hill cairn Where pottery was present it The interior of Maeshowe is monumental and incorporates standing stones Bigland Long was always Grooved Ware, Westray Cott which are flat-bottomed Eday Braeside pots, and quite distinct from Stronsay Kelsburgh the Unstan type. This asso- S Ronaldsay Isbister Dwarfie Stone ciation is also unique. Maeshowe-type Unfortunately most sites St Ola Wideford Hill were cleared out in the past Stenness Maeshowe without the benefit of mod- Firth Cuween Hill ern techniques. However, Onziebust several cairns were excavat- PapayHolm Long Cairn ed recently and produced Sanday Mount Maesry much data. The Maeshowe- Quoyness Eday Vinquoy Hill type cairns at Quanterness

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CHAMBERED CAIRNS - TYPES & DEVELOPMENT HISTORY & ARCHAEOLOGY S S S to have been an association about the material aspects of M M M H H H Bookan-type cairns are A A A with animals, Sea Eagles at these people’s lives, nothing C C C characterised by having R R R Isbister, dogs at and has been revealed about the internal divisions made of Cuween and sheep, cattle or rituals and social aspects of upright flagstones. Pottery deer at others. Whether their life except that the very if present was Unstan Ware. these, together with the large effort implied in the This type is the least com- many pot sherds also found, construction of these monu- mon to have survived intact. are the remains of funeral ments suggests that the soci- Bookan, Sandwick Huntersquoy Upper level, Eday feasts or offerings to the ety was well organised and Arthritis was common in with up to 400 at each of the recent work. The lack of dead is an open question. It had resources beyond mere adults, while mortality in Isbister and Quanterness. bones and other artefacts in is interesting to note that subsistence farming. childhood was high. Usage many instances may simply nicknames for people from particular parishes and The diagrams on this page of the tombs lasted for sev- Some cairns, such as mean that the cairns were Vinquoy, Eday eral centuries, and in the two Maeshowe, contained no cleared out at some islands are still in common show the development pro- recent excavations partial bones on excavation, whilst unknown time in the past. use. Some of these may be gression of chambered Maeshowe-type cairns have remains of large numbers of other earlier excavations In some cairns there appears very ancient. cairns from the simple long entrance passages, no individuals were buried, failed to yield the detail of Bookan type, through the internal divisions and several That the Neolithic people various and increasingly side cells leading off a large S S went to such lengths in elaborate stalled type to the M M and high corbelled chamber. Orkney-Cromarty type cairns H H housing their dead, in con- Maeshowe type which is A A The chambers are often also C C are characterised by upright R R trast to later times, suggests unique to Orkney and culmi- corbelled and can number flagstone set like stalls in a that ancestors were very nated in the eponymous from three to fourteen. Pottery byre and end compartments important to them. While impressive structure. where present was always made from large flagstones. A much has been discovered Grooved Ware few have one or more side

cells. Pottery, if present, was S Holm of Papay South M H Bigland Round, Rousay Yarso, Rousay always Unstan Ware. S A M C H R Midhowe, Rousay A C S R M H A C R

Blackhammar, Rousay Wideford Hill, St Ola Unstan, Stenness S

M Maeshowe, Stenness H A C R

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STONE CIRCLES AND STANDING STONES HISTORY & ARCHAEOLOGY

Things are complicated by the fact that an unknown number of standing stones have been destroyed, some by what we would now describe as “frightened fer- ryloupers”. There are many possible alignments of , chambered cairns and features in the land- scape.

The Moon was also clearly important in the Neolithic, The Ring of Bookan has a on the central area as now. Predicting the tides would have been essential, but these people also knew about the more long term movements of the Moon, The Ring of Brodgar originally comprised 60 stones, of which 27 remain intact which are generally not Apart from houses and ings is perhaps the most the Neolithic people were understood by today’s urban chambered cairns, the impressive and yet enigmat- very much in tune with their dwellers. Neolithic people also erect- ic set of prehistoric monu- environment which obvious- ed standing stones, stone cir- ments in Orkney. ly included the cycles of the Apart from its monthly cles and . These Sun and the Moon. cycle, the Moon has a seem- remain the most impressive Many visitors, illustrious or ingly complex behaviour monuments from this time, not, have proposed astro- The movements of the Sun due to the of its orbit especially the collection of nomical alignments which are reflected in midwinter around the Earth and gravi- megaliths between the may or may not be designed. alignments of the Maeshowe tational interactions between Stenness and Lochs. Nearly always they have passage, at the Watchstone it, the Earth and the Sun. As Moonrise over the Ring of Brodgar and the Loch of Harray a result there are a series of The Ring of Brodgar, suggested “rituals” which is and Brodgar and the The Barnhouse Stone Standing , archaeological shorthand for Standing Stones, as well as cyclical effects, the main STONE CIRCLES & and Maeshowe combined “don’t know” and often midsummer alignments at one being the “Major Lunar HENGES TO VISIT with outlying standing divined all sorts of other Barnhouse, Brodgar and Standstills”, which occur Stenness Standing Stones stones and associated build- things. What is clear is that Bookan. every 18.6 years. Sandwick Ring of Brodgar Bookan Midwinter sunset at the Watchstone The Comet Stone and two broken stones at Brodgar During the standstills at STANDING STONES Orkney’s latitude of 59o the TO VISIT Moon will only rise a few degrees into the sky, and will Stenness Watchstone skim the horizon. Seen from Barnhouse the Ring of Brodgar and Odin Stone (site of) Harray Hinatuin Stone from the Standing Stones it Birsay Quoybune will only just clear the Sandwick Comet Stone Hills before setting Stromness Deepdale into Hoy. This very dramat- Rousay Yetnasteen ic event would doubtless N Ronaldsay Holland have formed part of the Eday Setter Stone Neolithic calendar. Mor Stein

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At least eight Bronze Age tumuli surround the ring of Brodgar revealed a stone cist burial During 2005 the largest recently excavated. Inside were with cremated bones, four mound was excavated to several burials, some cremated, gold discs and 21 pieces of reveal a large and very well- others not, and a large urn, dat- from a necklace. built burial cist. Fragments ing from about 2000BC. This of gold and amber which unique tomb is much larger than The gold is Scottish in ori- were missed in 1858 were other cist graves and the stones gin, but the amber is proba- also found as well as cremat- had been very carefully cut. It bly from the Baltic, and may ed bone which should allow seems that it was designed to be have been fashioned into a accurate dating of the cairn. repeatedly opened and reused. necklace in England as the beads closely resemble oth- At Sandfiold near the Bay of There are well over 200 bar- Decorated gold disk found at the Knowes o'Trotty in 1858 - probably a decoration for a large button ers found in Wessex. Skaill a large flagstone cist was rows and cairns in Orkney In contrast to the spectacular The small number of arte- life much harder. However, monuments of the Neolithic, facts found have seemingly intriguing finds in several the Bronze Age has not left all been imported. Beaker graves suggest that this is many such remains to visit. pottery, a finer and more not the whole picture. Metalworking reached decorated type characteristic Britain about 2700BC, but of the period elsewhere, is Burial Mounds It appears none of the few bronze arte- also rare in Orkney. This that there was a change from facts found in Orkney date lack of artefacts may suggest communal burials in cham- to earlier than 2000BC. that Orkney became rela- bered cairns to individual Copper ore does occur local- tively isolated from Scotland interments in stone-lined ly there is no evidence that it about this time, perhaps due , often then topped with was exploited at this time. to climate changes making a barrow of earth or a cairn The cist was used in the period 2750BC to 2500BC and later about 2000BC of stones. There was also a Large pot with cremated remains Excavation at the Knowes o’Trotty Archaeologists reveal the Sandfiold cist for the first time in 4000 years change from inhumation burials to . The gold disks were likely used as decorative button The Knowes o’Trotty are a covers, most likely on the group of mounds at dress of an important Huntiscarth on the Lyde woman. Excavations in Road, Harray (HY343177), 2002 proved that the site is which form a large Bronze an extensive cemetery, with Age cemetery. There are a Bronze Age building, cre- two rows of eight or more mation fire sites and pits and mounds each. In 1858 exca- the remains of a kerbed vation of the largest mound cairn.

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stones to boil water, and first Another Bronze Age house appear about 1200BC. was excavated at Tofts Ness on Sanday. This large The structure at Liddle in also had double- South Ronaldsay gives a skinned walls but, like later clear picture of the design of houses, had radial walls such sites. With a lack of inside. It had a central large pots or metal contain- hearth and well-made stone ers, stone tanks were filled drains. Next to it a smaller with water, which was heat- building had a large stone ed using stones from the tank. There are many nearby hearth. After use the mounds on Sanday, some of charred and cracked stones which may be Bronze Age were thrown onto a pile - the barrows. Small at Herston, South Ronaldsay “burnt mound”. Dykes Also probably dating mate became cooler and BRONZE AGE TIME- The mounds are usually from this period are the wetter, making farming LINE crescent-shaped and are many “treb dykes” or much harder in Orkney. The BC probably the accumulation “gairsties” which seem to eruption of Hekla in Iceland c2000 Bronze Age in Orkney Bronze Age house with associated burnt mound at Liddle, South Ronaldsay of “pot-boilers” built up divide up the land on several in 1159BC may have caused Sandfiold Cist reused a sudden change for the Climatic deterioration dating from the Bronze Age. series of structures, some of around houses. Some of islands, including North worse in the weather, and Beakers start to appear In particular several large which may date from the these mounds are quite large Ronaldsay, Sanday and further encouraged the Peat starting to develop mounds which date from Bronze Age, including a and have substantial build- Westray. Although North development of peat in areas Knowes o’Trotty in use this time in the Brodgar area likely figure-of-eight house - ings next to them. These Hoy is short on archaeologi- c.1200 Burnt Mounds appear previously available for suggest that the people had a first for Orkney. may have been used for spe- cal sites there is a fascinat- 1159 Hekla erupts farming, causing crop fail- elaborate funerary rites, and cial occasions rather than ing collection of walls and Sharp change in climate ure and a sudden decline in perhaps continued to use the Burnt Mounds Although everyday things. Generally structures under the peat in c.1000 Liddle house abandoned the population. Tofts Ness house in use Ring of Brodgar. only a few Bronze Age it has been thought that the the Whaness area below the houses have so far been sites were used for Ward Hill. Such sub-peat In such circumstances a hot There are at least eight such excavated in Orkney, there of large joints of meat for structures suggest that much bath would have been most BRONZE AGE SITES TO barrows here, in some of are a large number of "Burnt communal feasting, but it is remains to be discovered. welcome! Burnt mounds are VISIT which cists with cremation Mounds" all over the also argued that they may very common in Orkney and burials were found. Recent islands, always near a fresh have been Bronze Age bath- During this period there is Stenness Tumuli at Brodgar may well have been a fash- geophysical investigations water source. These resulted houses or saunas. evidence from pollen and Possible settlement ion of the time. in this area have shown a from the use of heated isotopic studies that the cli- Harray Knowes of Trotty The substantial house at Birsay Kirbuster Hill Typical burnt mound on the shore of the Loch of Stenness below Redland Liddle has double-skinned Geophysical survey map of possible Bronze Age house near Brodgar Ravie Hill

e Sandwick Sandfiold cist i

walls and a flagstone floor r

w Rousay Quandale burnt mound o

with a large hearth and huge T Holm of Houses d flagstone water trough. r u Papay Backaskaill burnt mound g i

There are slabs set into the S N Ronaldsay Muckle Gairstay walls which are too small for Sanday Elsness Barrows beds, but just right for use as Tofts Ness house seats. Undecorated pots Treb Dykes with flat bases were found as Eday Heritage walk well as stone ploughshares Warness burnt Mound burnt mound & houses and traces of cereal pollen. S Ronaldsay Liddle house It seems this site was aban- Hoy Whaness enclosures doned about 1000BC.

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house. The two Stromness excavations clearly show how there was a progressive evolution in design until the final massive round , with surrounding settlement, was developed. These tow- ers were up to 20m in diam- eter, with walls up to 5m thick at the base. If in Shetland is typical, which it may not be, they may have been up to 14m high, the walls being hollow with an Aerial view of Howe Broch during excavation with surrounding settlement interior stairway.

The single entrance is usual- ly guarded by cells, and would no doubt have had a substantial door. There is Aerial view of the Broch of Gurness showing the surrounding settlement, banks and ditches evidence of one or more floors in several, but Brochs (ON Borg, strong- of the brochs at Howe now shown to have been whether these were galleries hold) are a type of building (Stromness) and Old built in Orkney. These were or not is not clear. Most unique to Scotland, especial- Scatness (Shetland), com- large and well-built, with brochs are situated in good ly the north, and of which bined with a reappraisal of occupation continuing for at defensive positions on the there are over 100 examples sites such as Gurness (Evie) least 500 years. They repre- coast, and in Orkney usually in Orkney. Most of the and Midhowe (Rousay), sent a sharp contrast to the amid prime agricultural Neolithic chambered cairn with a very finely-built passage under Howe Broch brochs which have been have thrown much light on preceding millennium, from land, but this may be coinci- excavated were cleared out the subject. which domestic building The radiocarbon dates from brochs are a local product, dence, as not only are there in the 19th century, but recent remains are sparse. Bu of Cairston imply an which developed quickly many inland brochs, but oth- excavations of the round- About 700BC a new type of Unfortunately none of these early date of about 600BC, from roundhouses - in them- ers probably occupied sites houses at Quanterness (St house appeared, typified by interesting Orkney ruins is suggesting that roundhouses selves perhaps the true which are now modern Ola), Pierowall (Westray), those at and Old able to be viewed, as they were already being develop- architectural innovation of farms. Tofts Ness (Sanday) and Bu Scatness in Shetland and in were all back-filled after ing into “protobrochs” by the early Iron Age. of Cairston (Stromness), and the Western Isles, but also excavation. It may be that this time. One theory is that That they were primarily the appearance of the round- defensive structures seems Excavations at the Bu of Cairston revealed a large roundhouse houses reflects changes else- The under the Howe Broch clear - the massive construc- where in Scotland, which tion, ditches and ramparts had reached Orkney. In par- were not just for show. ticular the destruction exca- However the presence of vation at Howe revealed contemporary houses sug- much about the development gests that they were often of these interesting struc- the centre of a whole com- tures. munity. In cases where no domestic buildings sur- Brochs were developed in rounded them, as at The Bu, the late Iron Age as the ulti- they must have been very mate version of the round- imposing farmsteads.

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Similarly the Howe excava- tion, during which the broch IRON AGE TIMELINE was totally destroyed, c.700 Iron Age begins revealed a whole unexpected Roundhouses appear sequence of occupation from Quanterness roundhouse Earliest dates at Howe an early Iron Age round- c.600 Pierowall roundhouse house, itself built on the Earth-houses appear remains of a Neolithic tomb, Tweezers from Howe Broch Bu roundhouse earliest through to the final broch at Insect brooch from Howe Broch c.325 Pytheas' voyage c.300 Howe "pre-broch" about 200BC or earlier. c.200 Brochs fully developed Howe, Gurness, Midhowe AD Roman artefacts in brochs Recent work at Borwick Broch is north of Yesnaby suggests that the broch there c.100 Brochs in decline that the idea that Orkney Norse connections. may date from 400BC, a BROCHS TO VISIT was subdued by Agricola in much earlier date than previ- AD83 may not be just leg- Little is known of the people These are a small selection of the ously envisaged for such end. The discovery of frag- who inhabited the brochs. many broch sites in Orkney. structures. Thus it appears Headed pin from Howe Broch Woven heather from Howe Broch Others are mentioned in the sec- ments of Roman amphorae They may have been descen- that the brochs were in exis- S tions for each parish or island. at Gurness and pottery at dants of the first settlers, M H

tence well before the A St Ola Lingro (remains)

Midhowe could strengthen who developed the society C

Romans reached Scotland. R Berstane this view, but these artefacts themselves, or they may Firth Finstown could just as easily have have been influenced by Ingashowe By AD100 the Bu round- come to Orkney by way of (Celtic?) ideas or incomers. Tingwall house had fallen out of use, Evie Gurness trade, perhaps after passing Their boats would certainly perhaps after a disastrous Burgar through several hands on the have been very seaworthy, Birsay Oxtro fire, and the later houses way. and they made contact with Sandwick Borwick were of much poorer quality. the Roman world according Stackrue Although the Greek explor- Stromness Breckness The Broch of Gurness con- both to classical authors and er, Pytheas is said to have Deerness Dingeshowe veys a strong sense of artefacts found at the Brochs Eves Howe circumnavigated Orkney grandeur, with its still- of Gurness and Howe. Rousay Midhowe about 325BC, no Westray Queenahowe impressive tower, ramparts Mediterranean artefacts Burristae and house ruins. The site is Earthhouses Another inter- N Ronaldsay Burrian have been found from this one of the most impressive esting development starting Stronsay Lamb Ness early. Roman artefacts were brochs and, with occupation about 600BC, is the Grain Earth House, a souterrain at Rennibister, Firth Baywest only present from about the Shapinsay Burroughstone over nearly 1,000 years, has Earthhouse, or souterrain. 1st century AD, suggesting Site plan of the Broch of Lingro, destroyed in the 1980s by a farmer Burray Northfield

Iron Age, Pictish and early Typical examples are at S S Ronaldsay Howe of Hoxa

M S Walls Hestigeo Rennibister (Firth) and H Interior of , Rousay A Grain (Hatston). These C R OTHER IRON AGE underground structures are SITES TO VISIT thought to have been used St Ola Grain Earth House for storage, and probably Harray Russland formed cellars to long-disap- Firth Rennibister Earth House peared roundhouses. There Sandwick Brough of Bigging was a similar structure under Tankerness Minehowe Westray Knowe of Skea the broch at Howe. The Eday Linkataing roundhouse superficial resemblance to Sanday Tafts Ness chambered cairns is proba- Shapinsay Burroughston bly more to do with common S Ronaldsay Castle of Burwick materials than anything else.

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IRON AGE ORKNEY - METALWORKING & DEATH HISTORY & ARCHAEOLOGY

similar stairways and The Knowe of Skea is situ- in some of the brochs, as ated on a small headland off well as but its Berstness, Westray and is in purpose remains obscure. danger from coastal erosion. It contains a large round The mound is covered by a building with a rectangular deep , with stone revet- interior and very thick walls. ting and an entrance cause- There were stone box beds way on the west side. Major and a central hearth but little excavation work over the pottery or refuse, suggesting last few years have revealed that the place may have reg- that the area was important ularly been cleared out. during the late Iron Age as a One of the many Iron Age burials at the Knowe of Skea, Westray metalworking site. A fur- There are several associated nace, kilns and crucibles small buildings, in which associated with copper or were buried over 100 indi- bronze working as well as a viduals, including a large steatite ingot mould have number of infants. Two of been found. The substantial these structures were metal- furnace is high up on the working workshops similar mound perhaps to aid to the one at Minehowe. A draught. mould found in one matches a pin found with one of the There were two burials, one skeletons, suggesting that of a young baby and another the metalworking was in of a woman in her 20s. The some way related to use of woman was buried under the the place as a cemetery. Knowe of Skea excavations, Westray floor of the "metalworking tides and good fishing, while but work at these two sites workshop" while the build- There are may be a Neolithic the associated settlement is has already shown that this Minehowe interior looking up lowers stairs from bottom ing was still in use. The chambered cairn under the thought to lie behind the may be due to lack of dis- Minehowe The mound now built into the mound in Iron body was buried on its back large building, while Bronze nearby farm of Langskaill. covery rather than sites. known as Minehowe was Age times. During the earli- with a piece of deer skull Age burials were also pres- There is another probable Hitherto the period has been first cleared out in 1946, but er excavations stone objects drilled with six holes and ent, suggesting that the site chambered cairn on the top all about brochs and round- was reopened in 1999. It is and bones were found, but bronze rings on the feet. may have been used as a of nearby Berstness. houses, but now it may soon a well-like stone structure they have not been pre- Iron Age burials are rare in cemetery for a long time. be possible to add more with 29 steps, which was served. Minehowe echoes Orkney, making this discov- The headland overlooks the Iron Age burials have until details to these people. ery particularly interesting. Westray Firth with its strong now been almost unknown, Corbelled roof of lower chamber Excavations in progress at Minehowe Minehowe Iron Age furnace Metalworking workshop at Minehowe e i r w o T d r u g i S

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THE IN ORKNEY HISTORY & ARCHAEOLOGY

ence was felt in Orkney, to proved indecipherable, tlement the main theme. be followed by Norse domi- although this may soon The sea would have been nation by the end of the mil- change. very important both for food lennium. The people of and raw materials, as well as Orkney probably continued In AD43 Orkney leaders for communications. No with their pastoral agricul- submitted to Claudius and doubt there were accom- ture and fishing as previous- reference is made to Islands plished seamen and good ly, but much improved ships of the Picts . The Romans boats. The incursions of the allowed more contact with returned again in AD83 Romans at the height of the the outside world, and cer- when Agricola specifically development of the Brochs tainly by the 8th century sent his fleet to “subdue culture may well have stim- many families were living in Orkney”. The implication is ulated a common purpose remarkably good houses that Orkney was a regionally between the various tribes, with a reasonable standard important centre of power, who then became what the Cross-incised stone, of life. as the Romans would be Romans called the Picti, very unlikely to waste their causing the tribal groupings Celtic immigrant blood, The Picts were first men- resources unless some threat of the 1st century to become rather than true Picts. tioned by Eumenius in AD was posed. It is interesting the Picts of the 4th century. 297, as Picti. Their ances- that the decline of the brochs The Pictish Kingdom gradu- tors were also earlier occurs at about the same Orkney has long been held ally developed and became referred to by Pytheas as time. This of course may all to be “the Cradle of the more centralised, with a "Pretani". He also called be Roman propaganda. The Picts", and there have been probable loss of power and the headland facing Orkney Romans wanted everyone suggestions that Orkneymen prestige on the part of the Cape Orcas. The Pretani else to believe that they had were involved in slave trad- Orkney chiefs. By St are said to be one of the first conquered everything. ing and head hunting from Columba s time the northern Celtic tribes to arrive in Without hard evidence these early times. However the Picts were becoming Britain and seem to be con- Classical references must be main Pictish centres of Christian, but Orkney con- nected with the Picts. Celtic in doubt. power were in the Inverness Cross-slab from St Boniface, Papay

people thus seem to have area, where they had a large m u e s

been living in the north of It is likely that the origins of fort at Burghead, and in u M

Scotland at least as early as the Picts in Orkney go at Angus. The "Picts" in y e n

the fourth century BC. least as far back as the early Orkney were probably k r

Iron Age and perhaps further descendants of the earlier O Irish legend refers to the still, with continuity of set- population, enriched by Picts as Cruithni - descen- dants of a king called Stone with carved feet, St Mary's Kirk, Burwick, South Ronaldsay Cruithne and his seven sons. They were a Celtic people who inhabited Northern and Eastern Scotland, who spoke a form of Brittonic Celtic, and who left numerous sculptured symbol stones, Pictish stone, Brough of Birsay (replica) some houses and forts, but Although often called the Roman invasion, the force- virtually no language apart Dark Ages, the first millen- ful spread of Christianity, from some place names. A nium AD was in fact a time the emergence of local, form of Irish Ogam script of great change and develop- regional, and finally national was used, but most of the ment, with not least the power. The Pictish influ- inscriptions have so far

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THE PICTS IN ORKNEY INTRODUCTION - HISTORY & ARCHAEOLOGY

from the old Celtic lan- m m u u e e s s

guage. These include Airy, u u M M

Knucker Hill, Kili Holm, y y e e n n

Egilsay, Cantick Head, and k k r r perhaps even the Old Man O O (of Hoy).

Old dialect words such as diss (small stack), kro (small enclosure), keero (native sheep), rental (as in rig- garental) and treb (as in treb Carding combs from Buckquoy Spindle whorl from Buckquoy dyke) might come from the There are several Papa old . In Reconstructed Pictish house from the entrance, Broch of Gurness names (Papdale, Papa addition the Moon was mas- Westray, , tinued to be the subject of implying that Christianity culine in the Norn - the Old Paplay), indicating sites attacks from both Scots and might have been quite alien Norse language spoken in where Christian “Papae” Picts, suggesting that con- to the Picts. Finally the Orkney until a few hundred were living when the Norse siderable local power increasing numbers of pagan years ago. This is most arrived. No doubt there remained. By the mid 8th Norse raiders and settlers unusual, and perhaps were so dubbed by the century the Picts and Scots may well have exploited the reflects the Pictish form. Vikings because of the pres- had been unified under disintegrating society, and However equally well these ence of these monks Kenneth mac Alpin and the taken over easily. forms may derive from later were already Scots Gaelic. under Norse threat. Although the Orkneyinga Many chapel sites predate

Saga makes no mention of m the Viking settlement, u e

s including St Boniface and

There has been speculation the Picts, it nevertheless u Reconstructed Pictish house interior, Broch of Gurness

M the Brough of Birsay, as

that Christianity may itself refers to the Pentland Firth y

e revealed much about Pictish extensively offshore, show-

n well as a good number dedi- have caused much of the as Peetalands Fjordur - k r buildings. In particular at ing that they had seaworthy

O cated to St Peter, suggesting downfall of Pictish power. Fjord of Pictland. In addi- Buckquoy (Birsay) and at boats. There was some com- that they may have been in Inheritance seems to have tion such names as Skaill (Deerness) houses munication with the outside use by the general popula- followed the female line, at Pickiequoy and Quoypettie from the 7th & early 8th cen- world as shown by artefacts. tion as well. Many later least for the kings. Many of suggest Picts. The vast turies show that some of the The Brough of Birsay has churches are built over earli- the beliefs of Pictish society majority of place names in Picts lived in substantial considerable pre-Norse er Christian sites. as deduced from the symbol Orkney are derived from dwellings, grew oats and structures also, and is the stones, were quite different , but there remain bere, raised cattle, sheep and only place where Pictish Recent excavations have to Christian thinking - several which may derive Bone pins from Buckquoy pigs. They also fished structures are now visible, Razor found at Howe Broch, Stromness Quartz pebble with painted black spots Iron Age comb Pictish-style comb from Buckquoy m m u u e e s s u u M M y y e e n n k k r r O O

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THE PICTS IN ORKNEY HISTORY & ARCHAEOLOGY S m u M e H s PICTISH SYMBOL TIMELINE - PICTS u A C M STONES IN ORKNEY R

y AD e Kirkwall Orkney Museum n 43 Orkney said to submit to k r Edinburgh National Museum Claudius - “Islands of the Picts” O ORIGINAL SOURCES 84 Agricola invades Scotland Firth Redland 83 Mons Graupius campaign Evie Aikerness Beach Roman fleet “subdues Orkney” Birsay Brough of Birsay c.100 Start of decline of brochs Harray Knowe of Burrian c.117 Hadrian's wall Holm Graemeshall c.139 Antonine Wall Deerness Skaill c.150 Ptolemy’s map compiled from Agricola’s campaign Pictish symbols on bone, Burray Papay St Boniface N Ronaldsay Burrian Broch 208-211 Severus campaigns in have been found in Orkney. Papa Stronsay Old Church Scotland The spectacular Flotta cross Burray Broch 297 Eumenius mentions two tribes of Picti in North Britain is in Edinburgh and some S Ronaldsay St Peter’s Kirk Flotta Altar front Southern British pacified Pictish Eagle found at the Knowe of Burrian, Harray in 1936 others have been lost. The Osmondwall 306 Constantius campaigns Burrian Cross is in 313 Romanized Britons in apart from the Pictish houses tions during the 8th century Carved bone from N Ronaldsay Edinburgh, but the Burrian lowlands becoming Christian at the Broch of Gurness. in the area of the Pictish 367 Picts breach Hadrian's Wall Eagle may be seen in the well. Many intricate moulds c.400 Hadrian's Wall abandoned Orkney Museum. c.561 King Bridei receives The suggestion is that the were found, suggesting that Columba near Inverness, Orkney Brough was both a monastic Birsay may have been an Pictish king present Several Ogam inscriptions and secular site, where the important centre for crafts- 564 Orkney hostages in have been found in Orkney. Inverness to guarantee safe "Papae" ministered to the men at that time. On the These enigmatic rune-like passage to missionaries spiritual needs of the people, other hand the moulds may messages have so far defeat- 580 Dalriada expedition by sea while skilled craftsmen dealt be nothing more than the against Orkney ed linguist’s attempts at with the more material products of an itinerant arti- 600s First Orkney Pictish house translation, but recently per- sites known aspects. Evidence that the san. suasive work suggests that c.680 Symbol stones erected site was monastic is limited Several symbol stones have now till end of Pictish Kingdom many are in fact in Old to a few artefacts, such as a been found in Orkney. The 682 Pictish king Bridei mac Bile Norse and can be logically lays Orkney waste Celtic bell fragment, but replica of the Birsay stone at transliterated. 685 Northumbrians defeated there is proof of consider- the Brough is the most spec- 715 Nechtan transfers bishopric able bronze casting opera- tacular, but another eight from Iona to Northumbria St Boniface leads mission to his court, story of St Tredwell Symbol stone from Osmondwall, Hoy Excavations in progress at Skaill, Deerness on a Pictish farm Establishment of St Peter

S Symbol stone removed from St Peter’s Kirk, South Ronaldsay

M churches, often near old brochs

H 741 Dalriada defeats Picts under A

C Ogam-inscribed stone from Pool in PICTISH SITES TO King Oengus R Sanday, transliterates to “RV AV VISIT 742 Norsemen attack Pictish fort ORC” which can be expanded to at Burghead “HROLVR AV ORCNEIUM” or Kirkwall Orkney Museum late 700s Pictish hoards at “Hrolf from the Orkneys” Birsay Brough of Birsay Burgar Broch & St Ninian s Isle Point of Buckquoy Norse raids increasing, Burgar Broch settlement begun Evie Broch of Gurness 800 Norse settlement in Orkney Sandwick Knowe of Verron complete Deerness Skaill 839 Norsemen defeat King of Papay St Boniface Picts, Uuen, son of Oengus St Tredwells 843 Unification of Picts & Scots Papa Stronsay St Nicholas Chapel under Kenneth mac Alpin of N Ronaldsay Burrian Broch Dalriada, End of Pictish Kingdom S Ronaldsay Old St Mary s St Peter’s, East Side

96 97