PREVIEW

Where to watch birds and large mammals of the Białowieża Forest Białowieża Site Guide PDF Łukasz Mazurek & Tomasz Jezierczuk

WILD Site Guides

WILD POLAND Site Guides This is a preview of the Białowieża Site Guide by WildPoland. Visit www.wildpoland.com for full version. Wild Poland Site Guides is a trade mark of Wild Poland S.C. Ł. Mazurek, T. Jezierczuk ul. Żelazna 67, lok. 13 PL-00871 Warszawa

www.wildpoland.com

ISBN: 978-83-64944-00-0

© Łukasz Mazurek & Tomasz Jezierczuk 2014 © Wild Poland 2014

Text, maps & layout: Łukasz Mazurek & Tomasz Jezierczuk Proof reading, additional text editing: George Pilkington/Nurturing Nature Ltd., www.nurturing-nature.co.uk, Dick Filby, Peter M. Macdonald, Photographs: Michael J. Eick, Dick Filby/WildWings, Tomasz Jezierczuk, Łukasz Mazurek Mateusz Matysiak / www.mateuszmatysiak.pl, Lionel Maumary/Birdline Tours, Antonella & Andrea Ferrari/www.animamundimag.com

Photographs on cover: Pygmy Owl by Mateusz Matysiak / www.mateuszmatysiak.pl Białowieża Forest by Mateusz Szymura / www.bialowieza.waw.pl

For online ordering of paperback and full pdf versions visit www.wildpoland.com

The publisher and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy of all the informa- tion in the Białowieża Site Guide, however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice con- tained in the guide. This is a preview of the Białowieża Site Guide by WildPoland. Visit www.wildpoland.com for full version. CONTENTS 3

Contents Foreword 5 European Bison 34 Wild Boar, Red and Roe Deer 35 How to use this book 6 Wolf and Lynx 35 What is the Boring Part? 6 Beaver and Otter 35 The Grand Part structure 7 Other 35 We divided the forest into 8 areas 7 Limited time? 8 THE GRAND PART 37 The Sites 9 Species list 9 The Białowieża Area 39 Maps 10 Short trails 40 1 Białowieża village 40 THE BORING PART 11 2 Palace Park 42 Białowieża Forest and National Park 12 3 Strict Reserve 46 Huge part of the forest is not protected 12 4 Mostowa Street 50 The National Park – Strict Protection Area 13 5 Dyrekcyjny Park 52 The National Park – Active Protection Area 14 6 Bridge 54 The State Forest – Managed Part 15 7 Wysokie Bagno 58 The State Forest – Nature Reserves 15 8 Żebra Żubra 62 How to get there and avoid the mistakes ... 17 9 Gierkówka Glade 64 Motor vehicle or public transport? 17 Long trails 66 Public transport 17 10 Browska Droga 66 Bus 17 11 Bagienny & Pacowski Tryb 68 Train 17 12 Przewłoka 72 Car, bike or walk? 17 4WD 19 The Main Road Area 77 Bike rental 19 Short trails 78 Parking 19 13 Yellow Trail 78 Petrol station 19 14 Bison Enclosure 80 Accommodation 19 15 Góra Batorego 82 Camping 19 16 Zwierzyniec Green Trail 84 Shopping & eating out 19 17 Ukośna Droga 86 Tourist Information 20 The Hajnówka Area 89 The best map of the Forest 20 Short trails 90 ATM and Credit cards 20 18 Dubińska Droga 90 Mobile phone reception 20 19 Topiło Lake 92 WiFi internet 21 Narrow Gauge Railway 94 CAUTION! State border.Do not cross. 21 Use of fire 21 Long trails 96 20 Leśna Bridge 96 How not to get lost in the forest 22 21 Puchaczowa Droga 98 What else do you need to know ... 23 22 Głęboki Kąt 102 When to visit 24 23 Głęboki Kąt to Nieznanowo 104 Weather 24 Spring (March to May) 25 The Budy Area 107 Summer (June to August) 26 Short trails 108 Autumn (September to November) 27 24 Meadows 108 Winter (December to February) 27 25 Teremiski Bridge 110 Daylight 28 26 Budy Bridge 112 Common birds in the Białowieża Forest 29 27 Budy Black Trail 114 Rare birds 30 28 Dębowy Grąd 116 Where and how to watch mammals 34 Long trails 118 29 Dębowy Grąd to Pojedynacki Tryb 118

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The Narewkowska Road Area 121 The Siemianówka Area 183 Short trails 122 Short trails 184 30 Bondówka 122 54 Siemieniakowszczyzna 184 31 Stara Białowieża 124 Siemianówka Water Reservoir 186 32 National Park Border 126 55 Babia Góra 188 33 Blue Trail 128 56 Bondary Dam 190 34 Pojedynacki Tryb 130 57 Bachury Ponds 192 35 Worobiowa Glade 132 58 Szymki 194 36 Parking Site 134 59 Cisówka 196 37 Graniczny Tryb – East 136 38 Graniczny Tryb – West 138 INDEXES & LISTS 199 39 Coniferous Forest 140 Bird list 200 40 Świnoroje Glade 142 Long trails 144 Mammal list 206 41 Wilczy & Pojedynacki Tryb 144 Index of places 207 The Narewka Area 147 Index of species 209 Short trails 148 42 Świnoroje Oaks 148 43 Janowo Pond 150 44 Kosy Most Bridge 152 45 Gruszki Bridge 156 46 Gruszki Oaks 158 47 160 48 Olchówka to Zabrody 162 49 Siemianówka Meadows 164 Long trails 166 50 Carska Tropina Black Trail 166 The Masiewo Area 171 Short trails 172 51 Braszcza Bridge 172 Long trails 174 52 Masiewo Red & Blue Trails 174 53 Masiewo Green Trail 178

Acknowledgements This book would never see the light of day without the tremendous, unselfish help of many. Dick Filby, Peter M. Macdonald and George Pilkington have spent long hours carefully proof reading the text, provided their useful ideas and made it sound more English. Arkadiusz and Mateusz Szymura have shared their local, expert knowledge at any time we needed. The core of the book – bird and mammal locations are the effect of field work and birding of many friends. We cannot list them all but several must be mentioned: Mark Andrews, Peter J. Dunn, Dick Filby, Artur Gierasimiuk, Grzegorz Grygoruk, Bogdan Kasperczyk, Tomasz Kułakowski, Przemysław Kunysz, Lionel Maumary, Sławek Niedźwiedzki, Andrzej Petryna, Michał Polakowski, Jarosław Stepaniuk, Arek Szymura, Mateusz Szymura, Tomasz Tumiel, Adam Wajrak, Karol Zub. This is a preview of the Białowieża Site Guide by WildPoland. Visit www.wildpoland.com for full version. 6 HOW TO USE THIS BOOK  WHAT IS THE BORING PART

How to use this book

What is the Boring Part?

You probably expect to find some basic describe how easy it is to watch all the facts and information about the forest. common birds that are omitted in the The aim of this guide is to give you the main text. These are often birds which best possible chance to see most wild- over the years became rare or have even life the forest has to offer. It is not to disappeared from Western Europe so bore you with historical and statistical remember to check this chapter if you information or any sophisticated eco- think we are missing some rare species system description. But since some facts that you happened to see so often. and numbers show the dangers this for- In the Rare birds chapter you can find est is in, we find it our moral duty to cite information about the rarest and most them in The Boring Part. wanted birds, their preferred habitat and You will also find pieces of hopefully behaviour – all that to help you find them useful information on getting around the in the field. forest, rules for visitors and our hints on Finally, the Where and how to watch how to prepare for your trip. The long mammals chapter provides information­ chapter on When to visit describes ­­­on the recommended time of year and weather conditions and the wildlife that day as well as the proper approach to may be seen, at different times of the year. watch large forest mammals, including In the Common birds in the Bison, Wolf and Lynx. 1 Białowieża Forest section we list and This is a preview of the Białowieża Site Guide by WildPoland. Visit www.wildpoland.com for full version. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK  THE GRAND PART STRUCTURE 7

The Grand Part structure

WE DIVIDED THE FOREST want to squeeze as much as possible out INTO 8 AREAS of your visit. The Białowieża Forest is large and to visit The other two areas are the two all the 59 sites described in this book main traffic routes through the forest. you would need at least two weeks. To These are the routes fromHajnówka to make browsing through this book easy Białowieża (The Main Road Area) and and efficient we have sorted the sites from Białowieża to Narewka (The Nar- based upon the most available accom- ewkowska Road Area). Since you will be modation places to stay and traffic routes driving there each day, you have all the through the forest. recommended sites along the route in The Białowieża,Hajnówka, Budy, Nar- separate areas. Now you can pick a new ewka and Masiewo areas are located stop on your way each day and explore! around the towns and villages carrying The last area is the Siemianówka the same name, respectively. Apart from Reservoir in the N of the forest that we finding accommodation, you would nat- added here as a bonus because most peo- urally stop in these places for shopping, ple would naturally visit it having already petrol or lunch on your way. Therefore, made the journey to NE Poland. Mind it is much easier to find all the interest- you, it has plenty of wildlife to offer and ing sites not only near your hotel but also you could easily spend a couple of days any place where you find yourself in and there. 1 This is a preview of the Białowieża Site Guide by WildPoland. Visit www.wildpoland.com for full version. 8 HOW TO USE THIS BOOK  THE GRAND PART STRUCTURE

Juszkowy Gród Szymki Areas Bondary Cisówka Białowieża - Main Road - Hajnówka -

Budy - Siemianówka Narewkowska - Road Narewka - Masiewo - Olchówka Siemianówka -

Narewka Gruszki Masiewo

N

a r e w k ow s ka R o a d Hajnówka Budy Teremiski

Pogorzelce

Sacharewo Białowieża

N

Topiło 0 5 km

LIMITED TIME? making the most of limited time. As such If you have limited time to spend and we have highlighted them with a black- find making the choice on where to visit stroked symbol on the maps and also in difficult, we have made it easier for you. the site’s main header text: We have selected, what we feel are the Our top sites! best sites to visit for wildlife and This is a preview of the Białowieża Site Guide by WildPoland. Visit www.wildpoland.com for full version. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK  THE GRAND PART STRUCTURE 9

THE SITES long ones are over 7 km (4.4 miles) and The sites in each of the areas are further are either long walks, very long walks divided into short and long trails. The or bike rides. short ones are less than 6 km (3.7 miles) Each site is described with a number and allow for a quick excursion without of details and symbols helping you to special preparation or equipment. The plan your excursion:

Difficulty of terrain: Footwear: dry enough for trainers Site number. Note easy walk different colours muddy or wet - best to wear for 8 areas and difficult walk walking boots top sites with a (dense forest, Site name and overgrown path) very muddy or wet black stroke: GPS coordinates pronunciation, - wellington boots are given for the ha! essential bike ride start of the walk or a parking site where applicable Białowieża village [byahwohvyejsha] TIME OF YEAR TIME OF DAY DISTANCE TIME EASY WALK FOOTWEAR GPS

spring dawn 2 km 52° 42’ 09” N 2 h 23° 51’ 01” E summer morning 1.2 miles

seasons best Time has been calculated in the for this site recommended field and equals to time of day to Distance to walk or cycle given approximately 1-2 km/h visit for each site was calculated walking and 3-5 km/h cycling from the parking site and back which allows for slow pace, to the same spot so remember relaxed birdwatching and to account for additional photographing distance and time if starting from a different spot SPECIES LIST To further enhance your enjoyment, we are seen less often, irregular breeders or have provided each site with a list of the frequent migrants that have been seen most likely species to be seen divided into at the site. With perfect conditions and three categories: appropriate time of the year, you may see COMMON – regular breeders and spe- some of them. cies that are commonly seen at the site. RARITIES – species that are very shy or The appropriate time of the year (usu- nocturnal, infrequent migrants or rare ally spring), the time of day (usually early species that have occurred once or more. morning) and with perfect weather con- You may see some of them if you are lucky ditions, you are likely to see most or all or keep returning to the site at differ- of them. ent times of day or with better weather ALSO SEEN – more elusive species that conditions. This is a preview of the Białowieża Site Guide by WildPoland. Visit www.wildpoland.com for full version. 10 HOW TO USE THIS BOOK  THE GRAND PART STRUCTURE

Each species in the list is preceded with numerous that they can be seen with- a three digit number that refers to the out much effort during many of the page number with a plate of this particu- walks described in this book. The full lar species in the Collin's Bird Guide. The list of these species can be found in the most complete field guide to the birds Common birds in the Białowieża For- of Britain and Europe by Killian Mul- est chapter on page 29. larney, Lars Svensson, Dan Zetterström and Peter J. Grant, first edition. OPTIONS In this section, we give useful suggestions EXAMPLE SPECIES LIST that may be helpful in planning a differ- COMMON ent route than already described, giving 259 Thrush Nightingale Luscinia luscinia you more flexibility to plan ahead.

Please note, that a number of common MAPS species are not included in these lists and Each site is depicted on a map and all are also often omitted in the text. These the most important points like parking are species like tits, Wood Warbler, Haw- site, viewing points and walking route finch or Blackcap that are generally so are described there. 1 Map symbols

meadows route described in the text

start of the route described State Forest point of interest with Nature Reserve 2 reference to the text in the State Forest parking site, National Park area suitable for parking - Active Protection Area petrol station National Park - Strict Protection Area bike rental buildings, post office inhabited area State border restaurant railway it tourist information main road pharmacy

tarmac road, hotel/guesthouse minor tarmac road dirt track, NP National Park HQ minor dirt track viewing point forest track, path bridge marked tourist trails viewing tower rivers, lakes roadside cross Catholic church, Orthodox church

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THE BORING PART

Białowieża Forest and Białowieża National Park 12 Huge part of the forest is not protected 12 The National Park – Strict Protection Area 13 The National Park – Active Protection Area 14 The State Forest – Managed Part 15 The State Forest – Nature Reserves 15 How to get there and avoid the mistakes of others 17 Motor vehicle or public transport? 17 Public transport 17 Bus 17 Train 17 Car, bike or walk? 17 4WD 19 Bike rental 19 Parking 19 Petrol station 19 Accommodation 19 Camping 19 Shopping & eating out 19 Tourist Information 20 The best map of the Forest 20 ATM and Credit cards 20 Mobile phone reception 20 WiFi internet 21 CAUTION! State border. Do not cross. 21 Use of fire 21 How not to get lost in the forest 22 What else do you need to know and take with you 23 When to visit 24 Weather 24 Spring (March to May) 25 Summer (June to August) 26 Autumn (September to November) 27 Winter (December to February) 27 Daylight 28 Common birds in the Białowieża Forest 29 Rare birds 30 Where and how to watch mammals 34 European Bison 34 Wild Boar, Red and Roe Deer 35 Wolf and Lynx 35 Beaver and Otter 35 Other 35

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Białowieża Forest and Białowieża National Park

HUGE PART OF THE FOREST The forest is protected as aUNESCO Bio- IS NOT PROTECTED sphere Reserve but just 1/6 of the whole Białowieża Primaeval Forest, known area is protected as a National Park and as Puszcza Białowieska in Polish, is an only half of it is the UNESCO World Her- ancient woodland straddling the border itage Site in Poland. The rest of the area between and Poland, covering still belongs to the Polish State and is more than 150,000 ha. It is one of the managed by the National Forest Com- largest remaining parts of the immense pany (Lasy Państwowe). Check out the temperate broadleaf forest that once cov- numbers: ered most of the European Plain.

Poland (ha) Belarus (ha)

% of total % of total ha ha forest forest

Total forest area 63,147 100% 87,922 100% National Park 10,517 17% 152,962 174% Strict Protection Area 5,725 9% 30,679 35% buffer zone 3,224 5% 80,715 92%

World Heritage Site 5,069 8% 5,235 (87,606)* 6% (100%)*

Biosphere Reserve 59,726 95% 191,300 218% core 10,164 16% 15,700 18% buffer 16,889 27% 85,600 97% transition 32,673 52% 90,000 102%

Other nature reserves 12,182 19% n/a

* numbers in brackets show the area claimed by UNESCO vs the value given by the NP.

So what happens to the rest of the forest, 1 TheNational Park – Strict Protection which is still unprotected? You will see Area (Obręb Ochronny Sierchanowo, for- yourself when you get here. On the page merly called Rezerwat Ścisły) 14 there is a photo for those who can’t 2 The National Park – Active Protec- wait or can’t visit for themselves. tion Area (Obręb Ochronny Hwoźna) These two main areas, the National 3 The State Forest – Managed Part (Lasy Park and the State Forest, can be divided Państwowe) further into four parts where different 4 The State Forest – Nature Reserves rules for visitors apply (see map on the (Rezerwat Przyrody) opposite page):

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Siemianówka National Park - Strict Protection Area

National Park - Active Protection Area

State Forest - Managed Part

State Forest - Nature Reserves Olchówka

Narewka Gruszki Masiewo

Hajnówka

Budy Teremiski

Pogorzelce Sacharewo Białowieża

Czerlonka

N

Topiło

0 5 km

THE NATIONAL PARK views. – STRICT PROTECTION AREA Entering here is forbidden except with The oldest part of the National Park, pro- a licensed National Park guide and even tected since the 1920-ies. This is the core with the guide – only two trails are avail- area of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve able: 4 km and 14 km long. You can hire and a World Heritage Site. No trees a guide and pay for the entrance in the have ever been planted there and only a National Park offices at Park Pałacowy few were cut and that was before 1900s. 1, see page 20 but we strongly recom- Stunning, breathtaking and unforgettable mend private expert guides at Sóweczka This is a preview of the Białowieża Site Guide by WildPoland. Visit www.wildpoland.com for full version. THE BORING PART  HOW TO GET THERE AND AVOID THE MISTAKES OF OTHERS 17

How to get there and avoid the mistakes of others

MOTOR VEHICLE OR Białystok bus station is just opposite PUBLIC TRANSPORT? the train station, use the footbridge over Travelling around NE Poland, a rural area, the railway. From here, you can take a is best done by motor car. This would save bus to almost anywhere in Poland, pro- you time and trouble as public transport vided you can pronounce the name! :-) is very poorly served. Otherwise, many There are a few connections per day to of the best sites are difficult to get to and Białowieża by Voyager Trans private remote, although a few people have man- busses (office at ul. Bohaterów Monte aged and been satisfied. Cassino 6 lok. 12) and several connec- tions to Hajnówka by both private and PUBLIC TRANSPORT national PKS buses (the large bus station). If you travel using public transport, the Once you get to Hajnówka, just change most central area to stay is Białowieża to a bus to Białowieża (approx. 5 buses a village, where you will find the NP head- day) or take one of the increasingly com- quarters, Museum and the largest variety mon private shuttle buses. of hotels, rooms for rent, shops, bike rent- als, etc. CAR, BIKE OR WALK? Driving through the forest is restricted BUS to a few public roads only. Most of the There is a direct bus leaving from sites described in this guidebook require Dworzec Warszawa Stadion at 14:50, a walk and some require a bike ride. Ide- arrives to Białowieża at 19:20. ally, the best option to use in the forest Check the websites www.e-podroznik. is by car and bike. It allows you to stay pl for bus connections in Poland and war- in the same place overnight and visit all szawa.jakdojade.pl for Warszawa City the described sites in several days. public transport. In most cases though, people just use a car. This allows you to visit most of the TRAIN best sites with short, up to 6 km walks A more sophisticated option is to take a and all the sites if you are willing to walk train to Białystok (the largest town in NE for 7 km or more. If you arrive by public Poland) and then a bus according to the transport, your only option is to hire a place you want to get to. The train jour- bike. Then you’ll be virtually free to visit ney from Warszawa to Białystok takes more than a half of the sites described approx. 2.5 hrs. departing directly from Białowieża village. Check the website rozklad-pkp.pl for For the southern and northernmost sites train connections and www.e-podroznik. you may have to change your accommo- pl for bus connections in Poland. dation to Hajnówka (S) or Narewka (N). This is a preview of the Białowieża Site Guide by WildPoland. Visit www.wildpoland.com for full version. 24 THE BORING PART  WHEN TO VISIT

When to visit

WEATHER We are pretty sure you have your own cold and snowy. You can expect a good favourite weather websites but since the foot or more of snow in January and Feb- historical or typical values can be diffi- ruary. In spring, March and April can cult to find, especially for NE Poland, be quite chilly whereas May is usually we created the charts below using data much warmer – see the temperatures from several different sources dating back chart. Summer is hot and dry. All the to 1970s. rain that we get then is usually during a NE Poland is under a strong influ- few large storms. In autumn, September ence from the continental, boreal climate and October are usually quite warm and which is dry and cloudy. The average the landscape is very picturesque with annual rainfall for Poland is as little as colourful trees. November, on the other 600 mm. In practice, winters are usually hand, is usually cold and grey.

Precipitation & number of wet days Average precipitation (mm) No. of wet days (> 1 mm) 80 June and July are the 74 wettest months but 70 looking at the number 56 of wet days you can 52 see that the difference 46 46 between particular 40 35 36 months is minor. It 31 is generally difficult 26 to get bad weather 10 10 10 10 10 throughout a trip of a 9 7 8 8 9 9 8 few days. It may rain for a day or two but Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec the rest is usually dry.

Average sunlight & wind speed Average Sunlight (hours) Wind speed (km/h) 249 We usually don’t get 236 234 much direct sunlight 220 but if we do, it can get hot quickly. Winds 165 are generally weak, 143 especially in the 107 forest. However, when 93 out in the open, e.g.

52 the Siemianówka 40 32 26 Reservoir, you 12 12 12 11 9 9 8 8 9 10 13 12 can expect much Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec stronger and often chillier winds.

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Rare birds

We thought this might be useful, other- Woodpeckers are amongst the most wise you’re allowed to rip this page out. desired of Białowieża’s rarer birds. They If you are an experienced birdwatcher, like dead wood. It is where they can find familiar with bird calls and songs, it lots of insects, obviously. The number of shouldn’t be a problem to locate and get fungi, mosses, lichens and insects in the good views of the most wanted species. decaying wood can be roughly ten times Some basic information on their habitat, higher than on the living trees. It makes behaviour and local habits can always be dead wood even more alive than a liv- helpful, especially if you come here after ing tree. Good thing to know is that the breeding season, when the birds are most woodpecker species usually select less active. The information given here the same or similar trees and sometimes is based upon our experience. This often even the same branches for drumming. differs from what you can read in other And if you get to see one on a particu- books. Estimated populations refer to the lar, good resonant branch one day, you whole Białowieża Forest on the Polish can expect to see it at the same spot the side and are cited after: next day as well. • Okołów C. et al. (ed.). 2009. Białowieża National Park. Know it, Three-toed Woodpeckers are spruce understand it, protect it. Białowieski specialists. Best to search for them in Park Narodowy, Białowieża. the dead spruce forests. However, they • Pugacewicz E. 1997. Ptaki lęgowe can also be spotted in the old woodland Puszczy Białowieskiej. Północno­ where old spruce trees grow in groups podlaskie Towarzystwo Ochrony (like in the Strict Reserve) or at the edges Ptaków, Białowieża. of bog alder forest with spruce trees. They

ŁUKASZ MAZUREK

Typical Three-toed Woodpecker feeding marks on a spruce tree.

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Where and how to watch mammals

Mammals here are generally shy and most Glade, 24 Teremiski Meadows, 44 Kosy of them are nocturnal or have a dawn and Most Bridge, 49 Siemianówka Meadows, dusk peak of activity which is why not 53 Masiewo Green Trail, 55 Babia Góra. many wildlife tours visiting this area hap- In spring things get a little complicated pen to see them. Here at Wild Poland since the herds disperse in search of fresh we have successfully shown all the large greenery and cows give birth to a new mammals to our clients but it wasn’t with- generation. At that time, your best chance out a sacrifice. If you are willing to give of spotting them is to explore the numer- up a few hours of your sleep, you may be ous forest tracks and glades in the Budy, amazed by the number of large mammals Narewkowska Road and Narewka areas at seen in the forest. All you need is a car dusk and dawn. Best sites are: 28 Dębowy and a spot light or a good torch. A good Grąd, 34 Pojedynacki Tryb, 35 Woro- Site Guide may also help! :-) biowa Glade, 37 Graniczny Tryb – East, In general, winter seems the best 44 Kosy Most Bridge, 50 Carska Tropina choice for mammal watching, see also Black Trail. Remember to start at night When to visit chapter on page 24. But and be there at dawn or start in the after- since most people visit this area in spring noon and stay long into the night. and summer, we thought the following In summer – July and August are again information may help. For the complete a good time for watching Bison since list of recommended sites for each spe- bulls get more active and join the herds cies see indexes at the back of the book, of females until the end of the breeding page 209. period in September. Bachelor groups of young males or larger mixed herds can EUROPEAN BISON be spotted at dawn and in the evenings Bulls are solitary or form loose groups in the forest glades now providing them of a few animals with other males, espe- with the dense sward of sweet grasses cially in winter and they are much easier to feed on. Best sites at this time are: 28 to watch than the herds of females with Dębowy Grąd, 32 National Park Border, calves which can be quite wary and dif- 34 Pojedynacki Tryb, 37 Graniczny ficult to approach closely. Tryb – East, 44 Kosy Most Bridge, 50 In wintertime they all gather in herds Carska Tropina Black Trail, 52 Masiewo and visit forest glades and meadows at the Red & Blue Trails, 55 Babia Góra. edges of villages and especially the feed- After the breeding season the groups ing places where hay is put out for them disperse again and your best chance to by the NP wardens. Some of these sites are watch Bison in autumn is again check- closed for visitors and serve as animal ref- ing out the numerous forest tracks and uges but many are free for you to visit and glades as in spring. take advantage of the season’s best. These • Est. population: max. 450 animals are described in the sites: 9 Gierkówka

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Bondary Cisówka THE GRAND PART

Siemianówka

687 Siemieniakowszczyzna

Narewka

Olchówka

Mikłaszewo

Narewka Świnoroje Gruszki Masiewo The Białowieża Area 39 Short trails 40 Long trails 66 The Main Road Area 77 685

N Short trails 78 a

r e w k The Hajnówka Area 89 o w s k Short trails 90 a R o ad Long trails 96 The Budy Area 107 HAJNÓWKA Short trails 108 Budy Teremiski Long trails 118

Pogorzelce The Narewkowska Road Area 121 Short trails 122 Białowieża 685 Sacharewo Long trails 144 689 The Narewka Area 147 Czerlonka Short trails 148 Long trails 166 The Masiewo Area 171 Short trails 172 Long trails 174 N The Siemianówka Area 183 Short trails 184 Topiło

0 5 km 10 km This is a preview of the Białowieża Site Guide by WildPoland. Visit www.wildpoland.com for full version. Graniczny Tryb

Pojedynacki Tryb

Wilczy Tryb

Teremiski

N

a

r

e

w k

o Pogorzelce w

s k a

R o a d

689 Białowieża

Grudki a g o r D Jagiellońska Droga a k ic n Si

Bagienny Tryb

Pacowski Tryb

Podcerkwa N

Olemburska Droga

Kozłowy Tryb

Białowieża Area 0 1 km 5 km

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TheBiałowieża Area 

Short trails 40 1 Białowieża village 40 2 Palace Park 42 3 Strict Reserve 46 4 Mostowa Street 50 5 Dyrekcyjny Park 52 6 Narewka Bridge 54 7 Wysokie Bagno 58 8 Żebra Żubra 62 9 Gierkówka Glade 64 Long trails 66 10 Browska Droga 66 11 Bagienny & Pacowski Tryb 68 12 Przewłoka 72

he Białowieża Area lies in the quality hotels, pensions and lots of bed- SE part of the forest and for and-no-breakfast farmhouses as well as the purposes of this book we camping grounds. It also has the National include the National Park Strict Protec- Park headquarters and Natural History Ttion Area here as well. Białowieża village, Museum in the Palace Park. More accom- has many sites in the area that we rec- modation can be found in the nearby ommend. It is a good starting place and villages of Pogorzelce, Teremiski and good place to stay, with several large Budy, NW from Białowieża. This is a preview of the Białowieża Site Guide by WildPoland. Visit www.wildpoland.com for full version. 82 THE MAIN ROAD AREA  SHORT TRAILS

Góra Batorego [goorah bahtohrehgoh] TIME OF YEAR TIME OF DAY DISTANCE TIME EASY WALK FOOTWEAR GPS dawn morning 0.6 km 52°42’02”N 1 h 23°46’47”E spring afternoon 0.4 mile 15 GÓRA BATOREGO Very short walk where Black and Three- SPECIES LIST toed Woodpeckers are likely species in spring. Hobby and Honey Buzzard have COMMON 097 Hobby Falco subbuteo also been seen. 225 Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius Take the main 689 road from 229 Three-toed Woodpecker Picoides tridactylus Białowieża and continue for 3.7 km from 317 Coal Tit Periparus ater 319 Crested Tit Lophophanes cristatus the village petrol station. Drive past the two significant bends with speed limit ALSO SEEN roadsigns and stop at the first forest 091 Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus 211 Pygmy Owl Glaucidium passerinum tracks crossroads after the bends. Park 311 Firecrest Regulus ignicapilla your vehicle and take the forest track S for 150 m. You will see a perfect Three-toed Pine Marten Martes martes Red Squirrel Sciurus vulgaris Woodpecker habitat at the top of the hill [1]. Find an overgrown crossroads and check the tracks E and W as well as the main track S. The good woodpecker hab- itat extends for the next 150 m S. An old coniferous stand.

TOMASZ JEZIERCZUK This is a preview of the Białowieża Site Guide by WildPoland. Visit www.wildpoland.com for full version. THE MAIN ROAD AREA  SHORT TRAILS 83

N Góra Batorego 0 300 m

Narewkowska Road 689

1 GrubolipnyTryb 15 GÓRA BATOREGO GÓRA 15

Three-toed Wood­ peckers nesting Góra Batorego is a good site at the site. to spot a Black Woodpecker.

LIONEL MAUMARY MATEUSZ MATYSIAK / WWW.MATEUSZMATYSIAK.PL This is a preview of the Białowieża Site Guide by WildPoland. Visit www.wildpoland.com for full version. 122 THE NAREWKOWSKA ROAD AREA  SHORT TRAILS

Short trails Bondówka [bohndoovkah] TIME OF YEAR TIME OF DAY DISTANCE TIME EASY WALK FOOTWEAR GPS dawn 4.4 km 52°43’28”N spring morning 23°47’18”E autumn afternoon 2.7 miles

Short walk, also accessible from Ter- SPECIES LIST emiski village. Likely species include Hazel Grouse, flycatchers, Black, White- COMMON 105 Hazel Grouse Bonasia bonasia backed and Three-toed Woodpeckers. 225 Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius Good for mammals at dawn: Bison, Wild 229 White-backed Woodpecker Dendrocopos leucotos Boar, Red Deer and Pine Marten have 229 Three-toed Woodpecker Picoides tridactylus 301 Icterine Warbler Hippolais icterina all been seen here. 313 Red-breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parva Driving from Białowieża, take the 315 Collared Flycatcher Ficedula albicollis road NE signposted to Narewka. Drive ALSO SEEN past Pogorzelce village until you reach 091 Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus the crossroads with Narewkowska Road 227 Middle Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos medius signposted right to Narewka. Turn left 229 Lesser Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos minor 341 Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus here and after 300 m you will see a clear- 30 BONDÓWKA ing with a campfire site and shelter on European Bison Bison bonasus your right [1]. Park your vehicle and walk Wild Boar Sus scrofa Red Deer Cervus elaphus S into the glade. Arriving early morning Pine Marten Martes martes you can expect to see Deer, Wild Boar or even Bison so it’s good to be cautious. The glade is oblong and gently swings right. It also narrows and leads to a track you have just come or continue further marked with a black trail at its other end W where Bison and Three-toed Wood- [2]. Follow that track W for 300 m until pecker are likely species. Follow the black you reach the intersection of tracks. Be trail W and after 500 m you will see a watchful along the edge of the glade and small clearing on your left and many all the way to the crossroads is where you dead spruce trees around, this is where are likely to see Bison, Wild Boar, Red Three-toed Woodpecker and Wild Boar Deer, Pine Marten and Hazel Grouse [3]. are likely species [6]. Walking further W Once at the junction [4], turn left and watch out for Bison in the forest, espe- hit the track S as far as 500 m there and cially at dawn or at dusk. After 900 m return back [5]. Bison and White-backed you will reach another glade where Bison Woodpeckers have been seen there. have been seen grazing in the early sum- You can either come back the way mer mornings [7].

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Teremiski

1

7 6 4 3 2

Bondówka N 0 500 m 1 km 5

At the site in September. ŁUKASZ MAZUREK 30 BONDÓWKA 30

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Kosy Most is one of MATEUSZ MATYSIAK / WWW.MATEUSZMATYSIAK.PL the best sites to spot a Nutcracker, all year round.

give you more flexibility and better views site along the black trail [11]. Hazel over the meadows [8]. Grouse and Black Woodpeckers are likely species on that trail. Wolf prints OPTIONS and fresh droppings have also been seen 1 Close to the edge of the forest you will so keep a lookout for them, especially at see a narrow path leading S, signposted dawn or dusk. to the watchtower [4]. It is a muddy trail You can also continue further S along through bog alder forest where all the the route described in site 50 Carska BRIDGE MOST KOSY 44 woodpeckers mentioned above are likely Tropina Black Trail, page 166. and Bison, Wild Boar and Racoon Dog 2 If you feel like walking, you can con- might be spotted at dawn or dusk. It led tinue E along the green trail past the to a tall, old watchtower dismantled in bridges as far as 1 km to a yet another 2010, hopefully to be rebuilt again soon glade where Nutcrackers and Black as it provided some magnificent views Woodpeckers are likely. over the valley [9]. 3 The parking site can also be a start- Once there, you can visit the forest ing point for the site 50 Carska Tropina 200 m S along the black trail for Red- Black Trail, page 166. breasted Flycatcher [10], then return to the hill [9] and come back to the parking

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Olchówka to Zabrody [olhoovkah to zahbrohdih]

TIME OF YEAR TIME OF DAY DISTANCE TIME EASY WALK FOOTWEAR GPS spring dawn summer morning 0.5 km 52°51’55”N 1 h 23°49’41”E winter afternoon 0.3 mile

Brief stop on your way to the Siemia­ SPECIES LIST nówka Reservoir that may bring Barred Warbler, Red-backed Shrike and a Corn- COMMON 111 Corncrake Crex crex crake. Bison might be likely species in 281 Barred Warbler Sylvia nisoria winter. 327 Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio Driving from the centre of Nare- ALSO SEEN wka village take a turn SE signposted 079 Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina to Gruszki. Follow that tarmac road for 5.7 km until you get to Olchówka village. Having driven into the village, just after in front of you. In May and June, SE about a 100 m take a left turn signposted from the bridge in the willow bushes, a to Siemianowka. Continue along the tar- Barred Warbler and Red-backed Shrike mac road for 1.5 km. At first the road goes can be spotted [2] and NW from the road straight N, then gently swings right and there are often Corncrakes calling in the passes a small woodland on the left. meadows [3]. Lesser Spotted Eagles can Continue along and stop at a small be observed, too. bridge over a ditch draining the mead- In winter, Bison may walk out into the [1]

48 OLCHÓWKA TO ZABRODY ows, 100 m past the woodland . At that surrounding meadows in search of food. point the village of Zabrody will be visible Red-backed Shrike

LIONEL MAUMARY This is a preview of the Białowieża Site Guide by WildPoland. Visit www.wildpoland.com for full version. 184 THE SIEMIANÓWKA AREA  SHORT TRAILS

Short trails Siemieniakowszczyzna [syemyenyahkohvshchihznah] (piece of cake) TIME OF YEAR TIME OF DAY DISTANCE TIME EASY WALK FOOTWEAR GPS spring dawn summer morning 3 km 52°53’57”N autumn afternoon 1.9 miles 4 h 23°53’00”E

Probably the best site for birding around Driving from Narewka village take Siemianówka Reservoir. In spring, the the turn signposted to Siemianówka. In specialities of this spot include Citrine Siemianówka turn right and follow the Wagtail, three species of marsh terns, main tarmac road E until you reach Sie- Lesser and Greater Spotted Eagles, mieniakowszczyzna village. Turn left at Black Stork or Hazel Grouse. The list the T-junction and follow the dirt track. is long. After 450 m it divides. The left track

SPECIES LIST ALSO SEEN COMMON 017 Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis 017 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 019 Red-necked Grebe Podiceps grisegena 017 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 067 Goldeneye Bucephala clangula 019 Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus 079 Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga 031 Bittern Botaurus stellaris 097 Hobby Falco subbuteo 033 Great White Egret Egretta alba 111 Quail Coturnix coturnix 035 Black Stork Ciconia nigra 111 Corncrake Crex crex 053 Garganey Anas querquedula 115 Little Crake Porzana parva 075 White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla 119 Crane Grus grus 075 Osprey Pandion haliaetus 221 Hoopoe Upupa epops 079 Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina 233 Woodlark Lullula arborea 085 Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus 281 Barred Warbler Sylvia nisoria 087 Montagu’s Harrier Circus pygargus 295 Savi’s Warbler Locustella luscinioides 091 Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus 297 Marsh Warbler Acrocephalus palustris 105 Hazel Grouse Bonasa bonasia 333 Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes 175 Caspian Gull Larus cachinnans 179 Little Gull Larus minutus European Bison Bison bonasus 54 SIEMIENIAKOWSZCZYZNA 193 Black Tern Chlidonias niger Fire-bellied Toad Bombina bombina 193 White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus Pool Frog Rana lessonae 193 Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida Common Winter Damsel Sympecma fusca 253 Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola Yellow-spotted Whiteface Leucorrhinia pectoralis 259 Thrush Nightingale Luscinia luscinia Ruby Whiteface Leucorrhinia rubicunda 295 River Warbler Locustella fluviatilis Green-eyed Hawker Aeshna isoceles 299 Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus 301 Icterine Warbler Hippolais icterina RARITIES 321 Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus 083 Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus 327 Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio 095 Red-footed Falcon Falco vespertinus 329 Great Grey Shrike Lanius excubitor 099 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus 341 Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus 207 Eagle Owl Bubo bubo 359 Scarlet Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus 313 Red-breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parva

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Walk up to the embankment and see Eagle, Osprey, Marsh and Montagu’s the great views over the lake [5]. In spring Harriers, with Black Stork, Lesser and likely species include Black, Whiskered Greater Spotted Eagles, Honey Buz- and White-winged Terns, Great White zard or Hobby seen over the lake and Egret, Garganey, Great Crested and the meadows S of here [6]. Little Grebes. Yellow and Citrine Wag- Sand Lizards are numerous on the tails, Scarlet Rosefinch and Penduline embankment itself and many can be seen Tit can be spotted in the willow bushes basking on a sunny day. For dragonfly around. Scanning over the reeds may lovers, you may see the rare Yellow-spot- provide good viewings of White-tailed ted and Ruby Whitefaces, Green-eyed

SIEMIANÓWKA WATER RESERVOIR In the 1950-ties and 60-ties the Narew was lowered to a possible minimum River valley and the whole area around allowing for the shallowest areas to Białystok city suffered from drought dry out. Hundreds of water birds lost and the decision was made to build an their breeding habitat and the plans artificial reservoir as a water supply for to reconstruct the shoreline and man- difficult times. An electricity plant was age vegetation to help purify the water also planned to be built and an idyl- were never finished. lic view of water sports development It is difficult to judge the effect of and creation of recreational centre in the Lake on local birdlife since no the area was spread. proper research had been done here Building was started in 1977 and by before the Lake was created. There is the year 1988 nearly 300 farms from 8 no doubt, however, that it is still one villages were resettled and the wide of the best areas in Poland for breed- marshy Narew River Valley was ready ing water birds. Would it be equally to be filled with water. Over 2000 ha good or better if the valley was not of natural sedge marshland hosting flooded? Or would it be better if they many rare breeding birds, including raised the water level to a maximum Aquatic Warblers and Great Snipe instead of allowing for half the reser- were flooded. The largest artificial water voir to dry out after the algae outbreak? reservoir in Poland came into being. We don’t know. Unfortunately it now seems that The inscription on a commemorat- 54 SIEMIENIAKOWSZCZYZNA building water reservoirs in the low- ing stone at the main dam in Bondary lands is not such a good idea. Because says: of the average depth of about 2 m only, Water Reservoir Siemianówka. The the water temperature rose very high evidence of an era of a fast development in summer and blue-green algae found of Białystok county. A symbol of realiza- the Lake a perfect habitat in the first tion of the tasks of development of food few years of the Lake had become a ration economy and the social programme serious biological (and aromatic!) threat of the Party and State. June 1977 to people and animals around. To fight the toxic algae, water level

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Hawker and Common Winter Damsel. walk too far, the border with Belarus is Feel free to walk along the embank- less than 2 km away. ment further E watching out for Sand A better option for Hazel Grouse Lizards on the track and Fire-bellied might be walking in the opposite direc- Toads in the ditch on your right. After tion. Continue along the embankment 850 m you will get to a sandy opening W, walk past the watchtower and the where Woodlarks are likely and more picnic area and straight into the forest amphibians have been seen in a tiny pond as far as 500 m [9]. [7]. The coniferous forest E from here can be good for Hazel Grouse [8], just don’t

Whiskered Terns breed in the wet meadows here. LIONEL MAUMARY

MICHAEL J. EICK Citrine Wagtail at the site. 54 SIEMIENIAKOWSZCZYZNA 54

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Bird list The full list of birds of the NE Poland, in systematic order. Arrival dates – courtesy of Tomasz Kułakowski www.avestom.com

STATUS: B - breeding, P - passing, V - vagrant ARRIVAL: median date calculated for last several years, W - wintering Latin English German French Polish Status Arrival Gavia stellata Red-throated Loon Sterntaucher Plongeon catmarin Nur rdzawoszyi P Gavia arctica Arctic Loon Prachttaucher Plongeon arctique Nur czarnoszyi P Gavia immer Common Loon Eistaucher Plongeon imbrin Lodowiec V Tachybaptus ruficollis Little Grebe Zwergtaucher Grèbe castagneux Perkozek B W Podiceps cristatus Great Crested Grebe Haubentaucher Grèbe huppé Perkoz dwuczuby B Mar 21 Podiceps grisegena Red-necked Grebe Rothalstaucher Grèbe jougris Perkoz rdzawoszyi B Apr 03 Podiceps auritus Slavonian Grebe Ohrentaucher Grèbe esclavon Perkoz rogaty P Podiceps nigricollis Black-necked Grebe Schwarzhalstaucher Grèbe à cou noir Zausznik B Apr 10 Phalacrocorax carbo Great Cormorant Kormoran Grand Cormoran Kormoran B Mar 10 Phalacrocorax pygmeus Pygmy Cormorant Zwergscharbe Cormoran pygmée Kormoran mały V Pelecanus onocrotalus Great White Pelican Rosapelikan Pélican blanc Pelikan różowy V Botaurus stellaris Great Bittern Rohrdommel Butor étoilé Bąk B Mar 27 Ixobrychus minutus Little Bittern Zwergdommel Blongios nain Bączek B Jun 02 Nycticorax nycticorax Night-Heron Nachtreiher Héron bihoreau Ślepowron P Ardeola ralloides Squacco Heron Rallenreiher Héron crabier Czapla modronosa V Egretta garzetta Little Egret Seidenreiher Aigrette garzette Czapla nadobna V Egretta alba Great White Egret Silberreiher Grande Aigrette Czapla biała B Mar 26 Ardea cinerea Grey Heron Fischreiher Héron cendré Czapla siwa B Mar 04 Ardea purpurea Purple Heron Purpurreiher Héron pourpré Czapla purpurowa P Ciconia nigra Black Stork Schwarzstorch Cigogne noire Bocian czarny B Mar 28 Ciconia ciconia White Stork Weissstorch Cigogne blanche Bocian biały B Mar 15 Plegadis falcinellus Glossy Ibis Sichler Ibis falcinelle Ibis kasztanowaty V Platalea leucorodia Spoonbill Löffler Spatule blanche Warzęcha V Phoenicopterus ruber Greater Flamingo Flamingo Flamant rose Czerwonak V Cygnus olor Mute Swan Höckerschwan Cygne tuberculé Łabędź niemy B W Cygnus atratus Black Swan Schwarzschwan Cygne noir Łabędź czarny V Cygnus columbianus bewickii Bewicks Swan Zwergschwan Cygne de Bewick Łabędź czarnodzioby P Mar 16 Cygnus cygnus Whooper Swan Singschwan Cygne sauvage Łabędź krzykliwy B W Anser fabalis Bean Goose Saatgans Oie des moissons Gęś zbożowa P Mar 11 Anser brachyrhynchus Pink-footed Goose Kurzschnabelgans Oie à bec court Gęś krótkodzioba P Anser albifrons White-fronted Goose Blässgans Oie rieuse Gęś białoczelna P Mar 05 Anser erythropus Lesser White-fronted Goose Zwerggans Oie naine Gęś mała V Anser anser Greylag Goose Graugans Oie cendrée Gęgawa B Feb 27 Anser indicus Bar-headed Goose Streifengans Oie à tête barrée Gęś tybetańska V Anser caerulescens Snow Goose Schneegan Oie des neiges Śnieżyca V Branta canadensis Canada Goose Kanadagans Bernache du Canada Bernikla kanadyjska V Branta leucopsis Barnacle Goose Weisswangengans Bernache nonnette Bernikla białolica P Branta bernicla Brent Goose Ringelgans Bernache cravant Bernikla obrożna V Branta ruficollis Red-breasted Goose Rothalsgans Bernache à cou roux Bernikla rdzawoszyja V

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