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Arunachal Pradesh Offers an Especially Phenomenal Patchwork of an Especially Phenomenal Pradesh Offers Arunachal India

Arunachal Pradesh Offers an Especially Phenomenal Patchwork of an Especially Phenomenal Pradesh Offers Arunachal India

NORTHEAST STATES 591 Along © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Cherrapunjee Valley Cher- ( p621 ), ( p621 ), Dibru- ( p602 ) ( p604 ) or Tawang Valley Valley Tawang Jorhat ( p620 ) and meet the last of ) and meet the last of p620 ( ( p611 ) Along ( p606 ) ( p619 ) Kaziranga National Park Kaziranga National Park mansion on one of ’s delightful tea delightful tea mansion on one of Assam’s plantations around garh around adorned Apatani women at the bizarrely Ziro Arunachal’s ‘little Tibet’ in the magnificent canyon land below up on a rhino Grass Resort creeping before in rapunjee

Unwind in calm semi-luxury at a colonial picture-perfect Visit thatched Adi villages the awesome Explore Scramble through Tolkienesque root bridges food at Wild on scrumptious Assamese Feast

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

In recent decades many ethno-linguistic groups have jostled – often violently – to assert jostled – often decades many ethno-linguistic have groups In recent

penning rap songs about the love of Jesus. penning rap songs about the love like and , seem more interested these days in perfecting their English and like interested Mizoram and Nagaland, seem more whole subcontinent. Although fabled as head-hunting warriors, most citizens of tribal states, of tribal states, warriors, most citizens whole subcontinent. Although fabled as head-hunting campaigns do rumble on, but generally the people here are among the friendliest in the are people here campaigns do rumble on, but generally the lous rice, tea and mountain scenery all pretty much to yourself. Quite a few insurgency insurgency a few Quite to yourself. much and mountain scenery all pretty lous rice, tea few foreigners in the region’s magnificent national parks. And you’ll get vast tracts of fabu- magnificent national parks. region’s in the foreigners few worries that deter most travellers from visiting the northeast. That means you’ll meet very from visiting the northeast. means you’ll meet very most travellers That worries that deter and the lack of any truly iconic ‘must-see’ attraction, it’s the somewhat exaggerated safety safety attraction, the somewhat exaggerated it’s and the lack of any truly iconic ‘must-see’ policy. Along with the infuriating permits (not required for Assam, or ), for Assam, required policy. Along with the infuriating permits (not themselves in the face of immigration, governmental neglect and heavy-handed defence neglectand heavy-handed defence governmental in the face of immigration, themselves including ’s largest at wonderful Tawang. at wonderfulincluding India’s largest Tawang. a series of gorgeous Himalayan ridges dotted with colourful Tibetan-Buddhist monasteries, monasteries, with colourful Himalayan ridges dotted a series of gorgeous Tibetan-Buddhist hill tribes amid seemingly endless mountain ranges. These are mostly forested but crest in crest but forested mostly are These endless mountain ranges. hill tribes amid seemingly with mainstream India. offers an especially phenomenal patchwork of an especially phenomenal Pradesh offers Arunachal India. with mainstream peoples. Cultures and facial features there have more in common with Burma and Tibet than with Burma and Tibet in common more have there and facial features Cultures peoples. mountainous surrounding states are home to a fascinatingly fragmented jigsaw of ‘tribal’ home to a fascinatingly fragmented are states mountainous surrounding Assam’s beautiful tea plantations remain India’s most productive. In contrast, most of the In contrast, most of India’s most productive. plantations remain beautiful tea Assam’s tra valley was traditionally a Vedic heartland and backdrop to several Krishna tales. And heartland Krishna tales. and backdrop to several a Vedic tra valley was traditionally way out on the edge of the national map and consciousness. Yet the great, flat Brahmapu- the great, Yet the national map and consciousness. way out on the edge of India’s 1947 partition left the northeastern states dangling like dangling northeastern a crooked states cartographic handle, partitionIndia’s 1947 left the Northeast States Northeast States NORTHEAST STATES the following: person include minimum group.Exceptions Permit applications generally afour- need Minimum GroupSize Areaa Restricted appliestoforeignersthis section who’ll require p597 ( ), p491 ) or elsewhere. Therest of relevant inGuwahati(addresses, office state’s inner linepermit,issued withlittlefuss ateach matter.one isaserious an Indiancitizensneed Pradesh, MizoramandManipur. Entry without Permits are for essential Nagaland, Arunachal PERMITS 592 Information Dhubri „ BENGAL Nagaland fora legally married couple NORTHEAST STATES WEST with marriage certificate

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River Sualkuchi Akhaura Barapani on thismaphavenotbeenauthenticated Rangia The externalboundariesofIndia Sonamura Bengal Bay of Unakoti Jang Umiam Smit Udaipur T RIPUA 40 Lake Orang and maynotbecorrect. (RAP). Tamabil NP (4176m) Mangaldai Dawki Se Balipara Sabrum Manu Kailasahar Tezpur Nartiang Jowai Jaintia Hills Bharali River Lumding Nagaon M IZORA Kaziranga NP Nameri Haflong Kolasib 36 Kaziranga Diphu Champhai Koloriang Lunglei NP Lakhimpur Furkating Nacho Ziro Barak Kohora North Saitual Loktak Tato Dumporijo Khonoma Lake Keibul Lamjao Bandawera River Numaligarh M ANIPUR Dhemaji Raga Furkating Golaghat A RUNCHL NP Bame 39 P RADESH N AGLD an exact, specified starting date.an exact, specifiedstarting You Permits are normally validfor10days from Validity &Registration you’ll probably beallowedtocontinue alone. permit becomeinexplicably incapacitated, three peopleonyourfour-person Mizoram much moreseem flexible,soshould theother inMizoramthings trict boundaries.However, group mustalsosticktogether forcrossing dis- are ‘missing’,especiallyinNagalandwhere the pressed ifsomepeoplelisted onyourpermit Once youarrive, authoritieswillbeunim-

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NORTHEAST STATES 593 If it works, the best option will be the new Otherwise the most reliable way to get per- way to get Otherwise the most reliable various Naga languages, Hindi, various Naga languages, Hindi, English Population: 3.2 million 10,486 sq km Area: Bengali, Main languages: Population: 895,000 Population: 21,081 sq km Area: languages: Mizo, Main English Population: 2 million 16,579 sq km Area: Nagamese, Main languages: Himalayan Jungle Travels Bomdila Arunachal Omega Aizawl Guwahati Purvi Discovery Rhino Guwahati Dibrugarh Mizoram Tribal Discovery Arunachal, Nagaland all, notably Kohima all all Nagaland Agency Based in Best for Where to Apply Where to Apply Home Applications through the Ministry of ) in can take pp132–3 Affairs (Map and end in frustration. months Re- at Kolkata’s Foreigners’ operated system ). p491 gional Registration Office (FRRO; see tour through mits is by booking a tailor-made agency: a reputable Tripura Tripura „ „ „ Mizoram Mizoram „ „ „ Nagaland „ „ „

•• Information NORTHEAST STATES Bengali Assamese, Bengali Assamese, 22,429 sq km Area: Main languages: Khasi, Garo, Assamese, Population: 2.3 million Population: 2.4 million sq km 22,327 Area: Manipuri (Meitei), Main languages: sq km 78,438 Area: Bengali, Bodo Assamese, Main languages: million Population: 26.6 1.1 million Population: 83,743 sq km Area: languages: dozens Main When to Go and most national parks only open from November Tourist season is October to April. However, of the big animals if you wait till February. you’ll see many more

FAST FACTS FACTS FAST Be sure to make multiple photocopies multiple photocopies Be to make sure

„ „ Meghalaya Meghalaya „ „ „ „ „ „ Assam Assam „ „ „ „ Arunachal Pradesh Pradesh Arunachal officers. entry, though on-the-ground realities vary vary entry, though realities on-the-ground and widely between checkposts individual elling without a guide (or ‘guardian’) can elling without a guide (or ‘guardian’) can confuseNagaland and Aru- authorities in in you being refused and mightnachal result of your permit to show at checkpoints and and at checkpoints your permit to show of Registration is compul- police registration. night that sory both on arrival and on each on a you stay If travelling in a new location. tour, your guide will do this for you. Trav- people. Be aware that permits allow you to Be permits allow you to that people. aware visit specified districts only; you’ll needto might routes be as changing plan carefully, problematic. will cost another US$200 for up to four will cost another US$200 for up to four be able to extend your permit, but only in only in your permit, but to extend be able capitalsstate at the Secretariat, Home De- permits extending partment. In Arunachal, lonelyplanet.com NORTHEAST STATES January. where temperatures candipto-15°Cin atanytimeinTawangclothes willbeuseful Guwahati canfeel chilly Warm atnight. sweaty ButbyDecembereven a mountain. air-con (AC) anywhere wellup thatisnotset Until October you’ll generally decent need Climate Costs perperson: Costs ahead. theapplicationprocessatleastsixweeks Start 594 aiu re Rs1500+ commission commissiononly free butlimited (Rs notpossible Nagaland commission commission US$50+ free Mizoram 400) Through Manipur free (notTawang) Pradesh FRRO Through Arunachal Kolkata agency State

Gompa ( p621 ). main Nagatribes. sculptures. Krishna-epic recitations anddance-theatre. Krishna-epic Hornbill Festival Pawl Kut FestivalRas Mahotsav Wangala Diwali sored Buddhistculturalfestival. Buddha Mahotsava Nongkrem Dance Puja Kang Behdienkhlam Ambubachi Mela Rongali Ashokastami Mela Chapchar Kut Torgya ElephantFestivalKaziranga Beach Brahmaputra Festival placeyear-round. tothecropcycletake Tribal danceslinked FESTIVALS INTHENORTHEAST general goodhumour. usual. ASSAM (Rath Yatra; Jul; Manipur & Assam, statewide) Chariot fest for Krishna’s birthday. Yatra; (Rath birthday. fest forKrishna’s &Assam, statewide)Chariot Jul;Manipur (Oct/Nov; all Hindu areas) Lamps lit on banana-stem posts outside homes, Kali images dunked in rivers, inrivers, imagesdunked areas) Lampslitonbanana-stempostsoutsidehomes,Kali allHindu (Oct/Nov; (Jan) and (Jan) (Oct/Nov; Asanang, (Oct/Nov; p612 festival. harvest ) Four-dayGaro (Nov/Dec; Mizoram statewide) Mizoram’s harvest festival. harvest statewide) Mizoram’s (Nov/Dec; Mizoram (Oct; all Hindu areas) Theregion’s biggestfestival allHindu (see (Oct; p487 ). (lateApr;Assamstatewide)Assamesenewyear. (Mar; Mizoram statewide;http://mizotourism.nic.in/festival.htm) Annualforest clearancedances. Mizoram (Mar; (Jul; Jowai, Meghalaya, Jowai,Meghalaya, (Jul; p611 ) Jaintiaculturalfestival. Losar (Dec;Kohima, p617 byall withwildlycostumed danceperformances ) Nagaland’sbiggestevent (Jun; Mandir, Guwahati Guwahati Mandir, Kamakhya (Jun; p597 ) Tantric than more animalsacrifices andeven rituals (Oct; Smit, (Oct; p610 royalfestival. Khasi ) Five-day (Mar/Apr; Unakoti, (Mar/Apr; p616 greatest ancient batheamidTripura’s ) Shivaitepilgrims (variable; http://tawang.nic.in/tawangbm/main.html; (variable; Tawang, p622 ) Government-spon- (Feb/Mar) Tibetan-Buddhist (third week of Nov; Majuli Island, (thirdweekofNov;Majuli p604 Vaishnavite) Major festival withplentyof (Jan; Guwahati, Guwahati, (Jan; opposite ) Elephant races andadventure sports. (late Jan; Kaziranga, (late Jan;Kaziranga, p602 tempter.) Newtourist chaam mark of ‘national’costume. Despite similari- prayer bymostAssamese men)isasubtle (a red-and-white embroidered scarfwornfor theboxedgion (see text, p605 ) andthe Vaishnavite faithisvirtuallya‘national’reli- Assamese culture isproudlydistinct:theneo- blazing sun. trees thatshield sensitive tea leaves fromthe from thedappledshade of interplanted acacia flat andtake theirparticularscenicsplendour Assamese tea estates areDarjeeling’s, virtually manicured or tea estates. Unlike SriLanka’s aretween equallyendless,gorgeous horizons.Inbe- with hazybluemountain and bamboogroves hemmed anddistantly less gold-green ricefieldspatched withpalm overmerising autumnalvistas end- seemingly archetypal Assamese landscapeoffers mes- most accessiblecore of India’snortheast.The the fertile Brahmaputravalley,makingitthe Fascinating Assam (Asom, Axom)straddles ASSAM (masked dances) held most spectacularly atTawang dances) heldmostspectacularly (masked Assamese look‘Indian’,but peoplemight lonelyplanet.com gamosa

NORTHEAST STATES 595 . Mizoram, . Mizoram, (www.assamtribune.com)

0361 / pop 964,000 TOURS TOURS by tour smoothes the permit states Visiting is still compar- but travel the bureaucracy simply slow and rugged. Agencies atively supply a sumo jeep, translator and driver- for emergencies. cum-mechanic, plus a tent basic, relatively Accommodation is often haphazard and delays common- meals are It’s all part place. of the experience and still comfortable by vastly more than travelling local transport. packed-full, over-fast rare, For more information, visit www.assam For more pleasant. Come here to arrange tours to other tours to arrange pleasant. Come here on swiftly. then move northeast states History Pragjyotish- of the site Guwahati is considered pura, a semi-mythical town founded by Asura killed by Lord King Naraka who was later The magical earrings. Krishna for a pair of and, even then, the state’s iconic rhinoceroses hard to spot amid elephant-height will remain grasses. These burnt off by Feb- grasses have the plains will have ruary, but by that stage brown. drab turned a relatively tourism.org. GUWAHATI % city isn’t beau- The northeast’s main gateway hillocks rise temple-topped tiful, but green, and Guwahati’s noisy smog, curiously above are and riverbanks it’s tanks (artificial lakes) Assam Tribune Assam . khar ASSAM •• Guwahati Meghalaya and the vast majority of Arunachal Pradesh are considered safe. Some areas, including including Some areas, safe. considered of Arunachal Pradesh are Meghalaya and the vast majority risk. high malaria a relatively have , TRAVELLING SAFELY IN THE NORTHEAST STATES STATES IN THE NORTHEAST SAFELY TRAVELLING in the northeast. active independence from Some want groups are insurgent of A wide variety or turf fighting clan Although effectively wars. are yet more linguistic autonomy, India, others want and Manipur, Tripura, Nagaland in travel advise against currently governments many Western it’s worth insurance), your travel not all noting that affect that might (an announcement Assam How- contemplate. is too risky to really Generally Manipur equally affected. are of these states OK, and within the usually Nagaland are of Tripura and tourist areas the most accessible ever, Hills to the Cachar and remote mostly limited activity are pockets of rebel of Assam huge state up suddenly and unpredictably. trouble can flare problem is that patches of the far east. The Guwahati cities of One-off just as they have and Dimapur safe hit the normally bombings have A flare-up is hard to quantify. of of danger to travellers so the level struck London and Madrid, made headlines, but most locals 2006 independence outfit) in late (an Assamese attacks by ULFA Still it’s uprising. rather than a popular organisation a discredited see these as a last gasp from the news with of latest wise to keepabreast Don’t let that put you off. Assam is a de- Don’t let that put you off. Assam However, by no means all of Assam is eth- Assam However, by no means all of Assam’s beautiful rice fields look their beautiful rice fields look their Assam’s tional parks rarely open before November November open before tional parks rarely emerald best in October. However, the na- emerald best in October. around Haflong, the Dimasas continue a vio- around Haflong, lent campaign for autonomy. lightful, hospitable and deeply civilised place Its national that you can easily grow to love. wildlife. of range a remarkable parks protect food: the delicious Assamese And don’t miss using a fruity, mild and finely pH-balanced unique banana-alkaline extract called tion of a partially self-governing ‘Bodoland’tion of In the Cachar Hills Assam. in northwestern India. The result was a major Bodo insurgency Bodo insurgency was a major The result India. that was only settled in 2004–05 with the crea- the Assamese have resented Bengal resented and greater have the Assamese terest, the Dimasa and Bodo peoples didn’t just terest, During the 20th century, increasing disappear. led their descendents toethnic consciousness the same in much way as the Assamese resent kingdom was an important force further west. While this might seem minor historical in- of cally now appended to Nagaland) by a Kachari- Dimasa dynasty. The Chutiaya (Deori-Bodo) today’s Assam was ruled from Dimapur (ironi- today’s Assam nically Assamese. Before the Ahom invasions nically Assamese. of between the 13th and 15th centuries, much neglect and imperial attitude from Delhi for immigration. that tide of failing to stem influx of Bengali influx of the state migrants to remains The political issues. hottest Assam’s one of bemoaned a perceived long have Assamese ties between Bengali , and Assamese Bengal. NOT is vehemently Indeed the Assam lonelyplanet.com NORTHEAST STATES 596 0 600 m GUWAHATI 0 0.4 miles

19 ASSAM ••Guwahati A B Umananda C D F Uttar Ghat Guwahati Peacock Island Sattagarh Mandir Karmanasa Chitrachal SRS Rd Hill 1 Island Uzan Bazaar Riverside 16 SLEEPING Bramaphutra 15 Ashok MG Rd Hotel Nova...... 21 B2 Kachari Hotel 13 FC Rd Hotel Rajmahal...... 22 B2 Ghat 20 MC Rd Hotel Siroy Lily...... 23 C3 44 Judges Taybullah Rd2 Jorpulkuri 10 Hotel Suradevi...... 24 B2 ὈὈFieldὈLamb RdPonds Pan Bazar Nehru 30 Hotel Tibet...... 25 B2 5 ARB Rd Park 38 Ghat J Borooah 17 MN Rd Pragati Manor...... 26 D4 Dighalipukhuri Rd Sundarban Guest House...... 27 C2 18 Tank Argwal Path 35 29 Tourist Lodge...... 28 B2 32 45 11 3 4 Fly Panbazar Station Rd 37 43 Over HB Rd Telephone 12 GN Bordoloi (GNB) Rd Silpukhuri EATING To Dimapur Danish Rd Office Tank Sukreswar 8 24 GNB Rd 28 Anamika...... (see 18)

Rd (280km) Rd

2 Ghat UNB Beatrix...... 29 C2 9 36 Train Beauty Valley...... 30 B1 Station Cakes'n'Bakes...... (see 29)

Kamapatty ὈὈ Nehru 34 Rd Chalia PD 14 21 SS Rd Stadium Gopal...... (see 31) 49 47 Rd B Bar Commerce JB's...... 31 A2 Sikh 50 College 31 39 25 ME Pizzas...... 32 C2 MS Rd Temple 22 MD 27 33 Rd uah Rd Sagar Ratna...... 33 B3 Shah Rd 46 Silk Route...... (see 4) Paltan MG Rd Jain Gandhi Tandoori ...... 34 B2 HB Rd Bazar Nepali 23 Solapara 1 KedarMandir Rd AT Rd 42 Mandap GS Rd RG Baruah Rd Mandir 6 HPB Rd Rd 41 DRINKING Café Coffee Day...... 35 C2 3 Trafik...... 36 D2 Rehabari KRB Rd SHOPPING INFORMATION Rajgarh Rd Artfed...... 37 C2 Northeast Network...... 38 C2 40 Arunachal House...... 1 E3 Assam Tourism...... (see 28) Bharalu River To Kamakhya Mandir (5km); -way...... 2 B1 TRANSPORT Hajo (30km); Jungle Travels India...... 3 C2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Blue Hill...... 39 B2 Sualkuchi (32km); KB Infosys...... 4 C2 Assam State Museum...... 12 B2 Buses/Sumos to Tura...... 40 A3 Siliguri (513km); Courthouse...... 13 B1 Deep...... 41 C3 Main Post Office...... 5 B2 48 Hub Manipur Bhawan...... 6 D3 Shopping Dighulipukhuri Park...... (see 30) Hotel Mahalaxmi (Airport Taxis)..42 C3 lonelyplanet.com Mizoram House...... 7 D4 Mall Fancy Bazaar...... 14 A2 Jet Airways...... 43 C2 Police Station...... 8 B2 Guwahati Planetarium...... 15 B1 Kachari Bus Stand...... 44 B1 Rhino Travels...... 9 B2 Nabagraha Mandir...... 16 D1 LPK Forex...... 45 C2 4 7 Royal Tours & Travels...... (see 46) To Delicacy (1.3km); Ornamental Gateway...... (see 18) Network Travels...... 46 C3 Standard Chartered Bank ATM..(see 4) Indian Airlines (1.3km); Sukreswar Devalaya...... 17 B2 Paltan Bazaar Bus Station...... 47 B2 State Bank of India...... 10 B1 Secretariat Sukreswar Ghat Park...... 18 A2 Sahara Airlines...... 48 D4 Complex (3km); Downtown Traveller’s Point...... (see 28) Hospital (4km); Nagaland 26 Umananda Mandir...... 19 B1 Shared Taxis/Sumos to Shillong.. 49 B2 To Tezpur Web-Net...... 11 B2 House (6km); Shillong (95km) Urra Tara Temple...... 20 C1 Zam Zam (Aizawl Sumo)...... 50 C2 (180km) NORTHEAST STATES

(MG 597 built cruise , which contains a Kachari Ghat 9am-9pm) . They depart when ), her (female ), her yoni (female h Sukreswar Ghat Park ornamental gateway comprises mostly three 2540707; Rajgarh2540707; Rd) festival celebrates the end celebrates festival 2332158; Sachel Rd, Sixth2332158; Sachel Mile, 2529411; GS Rd, Christian2529411; Basti) 2547102; www.assamtourism 9.30am-4pm) complex sits on a pretty for- complex sits on a pretty % an important centre for sen- for an important centre ( % ( % h % ( ( (Rs 10 return; (Rs 10 return;

Ambubachi Mela Sukreswar Devalaya Kamakhya is 7km west of central Guwa- is 7km west of Kamakhya offers a fascinating discordant melange of im- of a fascinating discordant melange offers a Sikh temple church, with a silver-spired ages lighthouses rising like dome, and minarets and shop fronts. signboards the stacked above At night Guwahati’s homeless curl up here nibble cones (Rs 47) riche while the nouveau Baskin Robbins ice cream. of RIVERSIDE GUWAHATI RIVERSIDE GUWAHATI Umananda Mandir island, accessed by 36-seater river ested boats full (about half-hourly) from views. river afternoon attractive itself offers including one where modern-looking temples, a dribbles continuously over holy water lingam from a suspended bell-metal amphora. Almost adjacent, little Rd; adult/child/camera Rs 5/2/5; playful, multi-arched by the British. BAZAAR FANCY Bazaar, Fancy Guwahati’s commercial centre, sual tantric worship of female spiritual power female of sual tantric worship in a gory ritually beheaded Goats are (). inner sanctum and the hot, dark is pavilion June/ sticky with sacrificial blood. The huge July cycle with the mother goddess’ menstrual of rep- blood. Nine nearby mandirs even more Shakti. incarnations of resent the airport road by a spiralling hati, 3km off side road. Occasional buses from Guwahati’s bus stand run all the way up (Rs 5, 20 Kachari Continue 1km further for sweepingminutes). Brahmaputra viewpoints. Manipur Bhawan Mizoram House Nagaland House TOURIST INFORMATION Assam Tourism Sights MANDIR KAMAKHYA parts rained body When Sati’s disintegrated p486 toes on Kolkata (see .org; Station Rd) Operates an informal help desk within the Operates an informal help desk .org; Station Rd) Tourist and a tour booth just outside. Lodge Khanapara) city limits. New office at the southeast genitalia) fell on Kamakhya Hill. This makes Hill. This makes on Kamakhya fell genitalia) Kamakhya Mandir 9am- h 9am-last customer) h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Top 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Top (GNB Rd) ATM (24hr) but (GNB Rd) ATM 2331003; GS Rd, Dispur) The h 2452859) Head south from the % ( (MG Rd) Has ATM and changes and changes (MG Rd) Has ATM 2540138; HB Rd) % ASSAM •• Guwahati ( (ARB Rd) Chaotic. % ( (cnr GNB Rd & Lamb Lane; per hr Rs 15; (J Borooah Rd; ) (NCB Rd, Panbazar; per hr Rs 20; (NCB Rd, Panbazar; a

(Lamb Lane; per hr Rs 20; 10am-8pm Mon-Sat) Above a silk shop.

Capital of Assam since 1972, the Asom State State the Asom since 1972, Capital Assam of no exchange. major currencies and travellers cheques. major currencies area’s best. area’s GNB flyover, take the first left off RG Baruah Rd, then turn right up an unmarked dead-end lane. Arunachal House at the relevant state offices. However, foreign- at the relevant slightest shouldn’t expect the morsel of ers ). p592 permit assistance at these offices (see PERMITS PERMITS Indian citizens can pick up Inner Line Permits Main Post Office POST POST State Bank of India Standard Chartered Bank very limited. very LPK Forex MONEY MONEY Stock up on rupees: beyond Guwahati the are facilities northeast’s currency-exchange MEDICAL SERVICES MEDICAL SERVICES Downtown Hospital Web-Net INTERNET ACCESS INTERNET ACCESS i-way KB Infosys Police Station Information Information EMERGENCY Fancy- and Pan-Bazaar areas, and stretches and stretches areas, and Pan-Bazaar Fancy- GS road from Paltan 10km southeast down Bazaar (the bus station area). Hectic commercial bustle animates the central commercial bustle animates Hectic train station district. in the Dispur Orientation Government is ensconced in a Disneyesque is ensconced in Government the of complex 6km south new secretariat city was wiped out by a huge 1897 earthquake 1897 out by a huge city was wiped devastatinga seriesfollowed by of floods. times in the 50 years before 1681. Most of the old 1681. Most of before years times in the 50 city was a vibrant cultural centre well before the before well centre a vibrant cultural city was intense of theatre the and later arrived, Ahoms Ahom-Mughal hands eight fighting, changing lonelyplanet.com rates for cash and travellers cheques in a booth behind rates for cash and travellers cheques in a booth behind Jet Airways. 10pm; h NORTHEAST STATES GNB Rd;adult/camera/videoRs5/10/250; mosque andagroundedUFO. Thehalf-hid- Rs 15/10; possibilities anditsownriver lodge ( p604 ). professional agency withawide range of tour ( p601). Lodgebengalnavigation.com) andBansbari for Brahmaputrariver (www.assam cruises ItisanagentArunachal Pradeshproposed. and fixed-date departures forNagaland and with wide-rangingtailor-made touroptions, sign.ItcoversJust Dosaz’ theentire northeast perienced agency inanoffice beneaththe‘Not Apt,GNBRd) elsindia.com; 1stfl,Mandovi from Rs1280/2280). Kaziranga NationalPark (Indian/foreigner also offers two-dayall-inclusive packages to child Rs450/375, minimumfive people).It dreary silk-weaving centre Sualkuchi (adult/ tly atmospherictemple townof Hajo viathe mercial booth,runsdayexcursions tothegen- Lodge,StationRd) Tourist Point Traveller’s Tours hill-top to reach theholyifvisuallyunderwhelming to walk(ordrive) 4kmfurtherupaspiralroad topping assorted hillocks.PiousMuslimsneed Buddhist pilgrimstoitsfive ancienttemples littletownofpleasant top temples, whilesome30kmnorthwest,the Around thecitythere are more several hill- OTHER SIGHTS ponds Jorpulkuri holiest, second backed bythegently attractive den 15; Planetarium hati Park pukhuri (MG Rd) The distinctive beehive domeof the OLD GUWAHATI reference library. homes, whileupstairs there’s anengrossing You get reconstructed towalkthrough tribal that hintatGuwahati’s14th-centurygrandeur. coins,fabricsandfabuloussculptures samese Tue-Sun) The excellent ASSAM STATE MUSEUM 598 Jungle Travels India Jungle Travels Rhino Travels Travels Rhino h Urra Tara Temple SA • Gwht ASSAM ••Guwahati noon &4pm) rises above rises mildlyattractive displaystribalartefacts, ancientAs- h Poa mosque Mecca 9.30am-8pm)

(HB Rd;admissionRs2,boatsperadult/child Assam State Museum State Assam

. ( ( lookssomewhere a between

% % ( % , inAssam Tourism’scom- 2540666; MNRd) 2604018; www.assamtourism.org; 2604018; www.assamtourism.org; 2548962; MGRd;starshowsRs tank. Thenearby tank. (Lamb Lane)

( % Hajo . 2660890; www.jungletrav attracts Hinduand is a highly ex- isahighly is Guwahati’s h isahelpful,

( 10am-4.15pm % Courthouse Dighuli- 2540651; Guwa-

10-storey tower-hotel, semi-international a 25% tax and service charge. andservice a 25%tax private bathrooms withhotwater. Many add All thehotels and listed here offer cableTV MIDRANGE &TOPEND TibetHotel rooms. Rs 150/230)Well-organisedwarren ofSpartan bathroom with shared bathroomRs 100/170,withprivate Suradevi Hotel five-storeys of stairs. be prepared andupto forsometrainnoise and balcony.It’sagenuine bargain, though tion, thefresh, cleanroomshave fan,geyser d withACRs633; cheap hotels linethesurroundinglanes. rock-bottom roomsintown.Many nastier shared bathroom)are possiblythecleanest floor options(singles/doublesRs150/300with friendly ifunfinished hotel, thebargain top- lane; sRs150-600,d300-800; Sundarban GuestHouse BUDGET Sleeping (p600). safaris It’s anagent forManas multidayelephant GS Rd;s/dfrom Rs1800/2100; it wascleanedmore regularly. swimming poolwould beagreat attractionif (singles/doubles Rs 2000/2600).Therooftop tractively remodelled superdeluxe rooms pay theextraRs100andupgrade to theat- Rs 1900/2500plus25%; .com; AT Rd;s/dwithfanfromRs1200/1800, withACfrom slicesofbetween coldturkey. Vietnam Warjournalistsscribblingreports (mains Rs50to120)onecouldimaginestoned the ceilingfansof therecommended restaurant well kept andhasastriking1960sfeel. Beneath area,Bazaar this15-roomhotel isimmaculately AC Rs890/1090plus25%; Manipuri foodinitsmodestrestaurant. newspapers delivered toyourdoor. Trythe air-conditioned foyerandcomplimentary hotelwell-maintained withalift,pleasantly 550/750, withACRs850/1050; for thebusstation. veryhandy bed-factory, survivable 150/250/350) Perfectly Hotel SiroyLily Hotel Lodge Tourist Pragati Manor Rajmahal Hotel Nova Hotel Other cheap possibilities: ( % Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com (

% a ( 2639600; AT Rd;s/d/tfromRs %

(

( % % 2523464; SS Rd; s/d from Rs 680/890, with 2523464; SSRd;s/dfromRs680/890,with ) Convenient forthetrainsta- ( 2545050; MNRd;dmRs85,s/d ( % % 2544475; StationRd;s/dRs275/330, 2341261; [email protected]; as a

2608492; SolaparaRd;s/dRs 2549141; www.rajmahalhotel ( % a ) a In the buzzingFancy Inthe a 2730722; MERd,firstside Professionally run, ) Were itnearer the ) ) Ifyoupickthis Atthiswell-kept, ) NORTHEAST STATES 599 10am- 10am- This Well h h shuttles to 10am-8pm) h 2416720) % ( 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) 2603833; www.northeastnetwork 2548676; GS Rd) 2264425, ) h 2668255; GNB Rd) % % ( 1-800 4257008; www.airdeccan.net) % 1-800 1800101; www.flykingfisher.com) % (Taybullah Rs 23; Rd; espresso 1-800 1803333; http://book.spiceJet.com) (S2;

% (IC; 2548987; GNB Rd; 9910383838; http://book.goindigo.in) 2661275; GNB Rd; beers Rs 60; 2661275; GNB Rd; % % (9W;

(DN; % (IT; %

% ( Guwahati’s most central answer to most central answer to Guwahati’s ( ) (SG; (6E; a This hip, under-lit bar rolls out a vast bar rolls This hip, under-lit Helicopter travel in India has a poor safety safety in India has a poor travel Helicopter There’s considerable competition between competition considerable There’s Artfed Trafik gun near Itanagar (Rs 3000, 1¼ hours, six six gun near Itanagar(Rs 3000, 1¼ hours, weekly) and Lumla (Rs 3000, twice weekly) booking then pay your Phone for Tawang. at the airport if the serviceactually decides to fly. ). p1170 (seerecord Wednesday flight to Bangkok. For details of flights the from Guwahati, seesome of the . p600 table, domestic carriers: Air Deccan Indian Airlines IndiGo Jet Airways Kingfisher Sahara Airlines spiceJet Helicopter Hans HelicoptersPawan twice daily), (Rs 725, 30 minutes, Shillong Tura (Garo Hills, thrice weekly), Naharla- rural villages including several handloom including several handloom rural villages Buying beautiful (and cooperatives. weaving fine supports this cottons here good-value) peepwork and allows you to of inside one colonial-era remaining old Guwahati’s few mansions. bamboo crafts, wicker- with bargain stocked Severalwork and many a carved nearby rhino. famous golden- shops specialise in Assam’s toned silks. Getting There & Away AIR Guwahati’s pleasantly orderly Lok-Priya Airport Gopinath Bordoloi International Indian Airlines’ thanks to is ‘international’ Drinking Drinking Café Coffee Day music Starbucks pumps out contemporary with per- the city’s gilded youth and attracts slow) macchiatos. (if very fect 10pm) Shopping Northeast Network .org; JN Borooah Lane; NGO seedsnonprofit self-help in projects screen to show key cricket matches. cricket key to show screen 11pm; )

a Anamika ) Tucked Tucked ASSAM •• Guwahati a Cakes’n’Bakes and This sparkling, ) 2663329; pizzas Rs 40- Majestic North- Majestic All-in-one com- ) (dumplings), Chi-

a % ( a Pizzas momos momos 9954097416; MD Shah Rd; mains from offer inexpensive alfresco alfresco inexpensive offer 8am-11pm; 9am-4pm & 8-11pm; 2608024; GNB Rd; mains Rs 25-80; 2608024; GNB Rd; mains Rs 25-80; for burgers and for burgers (Dighulipukhuri Park) 2516021-5; Dynasty Hotel, SS Rd; mains for delicious fresh pastries pastries for delicious fresh 2233402; cnr GS & RGB Rds, Ganeshguri; % h h ( % noon-3pm & 7-11pm) ( % 2510364; Kamrup Chamber Rd; mains Rs 45-70; ( %

( h % (

(Rs 30-70)

(MG Rd; mains Rs 30-95;

for tasty if bready pizzas, cartoon-walled pizzas, cartoon-walled for tasty if bready Just around the corner from JB’s, Gopal ) Tandoori Sagar Ratna Gopal Silk Route

Beauty Valley Beauty Valley Delicacy JB’s snack dinners. (Sukreswar Ghat Park) (Sukreswar (mains Rs 15-25) (from Rs 6). 285) QUICK EATS QUICK EATS fast- several appointed tastefully Rd offers MC food joints. Choose etarian Indian food with wickedly delicious etarian Indian food with wickedly coconut dosas. Big windows and good AC. modern chain restaurant specialises in veg- restaurant modern chain the trek for Guwahati’s very best selection of best selection of for Guwahati’s very the trek almost are cuisine styles. There northeastern buses 1, 2, 3 Take rice alone. a dozen types of or 21 from near the museum. beneath a repulsive overpass junction, the junction, the overpass beneath a repulsive odd location is far from central but worth dishes Rs 20-100; world-class Indian vegetarian food. Indian vegetarian world-class what Mexican-styled snack bar and (upstairs bar and (upstairs snack what Mexican-styled servingvia the sweet a restaurant counter) plex with bakery, ice-cream parlour, some- parlour, ice-cream plex with bakery, storey place, with cheaper Indian food available Indian food available place, with cheaper storey next door. in friendly, simpler places between Kachari and Sukreswar Ghats. and Sukreswar between Kachari As well as the restaurants reviewed here there there here reviewed well as the restaurants As moored many floating boat-restaurants are Eating Eating RESTAURANTS man ushers you into this 47-room oasis where this 47-room oasis where you into man ushers Indian with is softened modern architecture palm-swathed art. Back look out over rooms a glass-pod elevator. there’s hillocks and centre, Pragati Manor would be Guwahati’s be Guwahati’s would Manor Pragati centre, door- A costumed pick. upmarket undisputed Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book is another decent veggie option whoseis another decent veggie stylish vibe. modern décor has an appealing, low-key Beatrix a Rs 100-300; Rs 45, coffee Rs 26; Rs 45, coffee served low tables by stylish at in Mughal uniforms accompanied by waiters tabla music. live gentle Reasonably priced nese and Thai food are servednese and Thai food are in a cosy, two- NORTHEAST STATES & Travels & Travels Rd) arrive earlymorning take the7.15am take around 24hours,Trains to Kolkata soto TRAIN KRB Rd. hours) inwestern Meghalaya depart from hours) viaSilchar (Rs350,11hours). lane) (Mizoram), leave fromoutsideHotel Tibet. ForAizawl For Shillong shared (Rs110/150) taxis/sumos GS Rd) networks include roads andlanes.Companieswithextensive operators have ticket onsurrounding offices station Various government use buses BUS &SUMO 600 epr 10 5 9½ 12-15 13 110 3½ 8 240 310 13 330 (WestBengal) Siliguri 210-250 Tezpur 64 310 Sivasagar 18-20 Silchar 10 Shillong (Meghalaya) 24-26 Kohima (Nagaland) 150-210 Kaziranga 6 500 Jorhat 218-250 viaMao Imphal (Manipur) 355-500 Duration(hr) Dimapur viaNumaligarh Fare (Rs) 265-320 Dibrugarh 12 (Tripura) Agartala Destination and Buses/sumos toTura(Rs175/230,six/10 Buses/sumos FLIGHTS FROMGUWAHATI iaai h ICTue, Sat;DNTue, Thu,Sat ICWed,Sun DN,IC&9Wtwicedaily;6E,SG,S2ITdaily 9Wtwicedaily;IC,6E,DN&S2daily IC Sun;ITTue, DNMon,Wed,Fri, Thu,Sat 6E&DNdaily;9WMon,Tue, Sat;ICWed,Sun Wed,Fri, 9W IC 1hr 1hr IC daily 50min ICTue, Sun DNMon,Wed,Fri, Thu,Sat;9WMon,Wed, Fri; DN&ICdaily;9WMon,Tue, Sun Sat,Sun;ITMon,Fri, 2¼hr 55min Silchar 40min Thu, Lilabari Wed Kolkata Wed 50min 1hr 50min Jorhat Airline/Frequency Imphal 40min 70min Gaya Dibrugarh Delhi Sun Bangkok 2½hr Bagdogra Aizawl Agartala Destination Duration runs several dailysumos(Rs650,16 runsseveral , SA • Nrhetr sa Bdln) Assam(Bodoland) ASSAM ••Northwestern Assam Valley Assam ( % Blue Hill ( % 2730410; AT Rd) 2519094; GSRd) Zam

( %

( % Network Travels 2607145; HPBRd)

, whiledozensof private ( 2631843; GSRd) % , 2639617; MERd,2ndside Deep ( % Paltan Bazaarbus . ,

( 2152937; HPB % Royal Tours Kamrup 2522007; Shared totheairport(Rsperperson/car taxis Getting Around on thetrain(that’snottrueforbuses). aNagalandpermitaslongyoustay don’t need and Tinsukia Nagaland,butyou cutthrough Sunday).TrainstoJorhat,Dibrugarh (no service mapur (fourhours) ismuch faster thanbuses For Jorhat (6½hours) the6.30amtrainviaDi- (sleeper/2AC Rs164/663)arrivingat7.35am. orSikkimtake the10.30pm For Darjeeling Express poaching weapons, anda museum way village of to protect theforest frompoachers. Thegate- aginatively employsformerBodoinsurgents Maozigendri; munity-based management ledby Inspiringcom- Florican (whatabustard!). This is EASTERN RANGE tional parkfees are asforKaziranga ( p603 ). (www.manas100.com; Unesco-listed Bodoland’s % Manas NationalPark NORTHWESTERN ASSAM(BODOLAND) charge Rs20to50forshorter hops. (bus 22;Rs15,onehour).Autorickshaws Hajo (bus25;Rs15,onehour)andSualkuchi runtoKamakhya Mandir, citybuses stand Mahalaxmi Hotel 100/500, 23km)leave fromthedriveway of 03666 toHowrah(sleeper/2AC Rs299/1212). the (admission Rs 30) % place to spot an ultrarare Bengal placetospotanultrarare Bengal 268052; [email protected]) Koklabari (GS Rd) h Oct-Mar) Oct-Mar) . FromtheKachari bus displaying impounded has a fascinating little hasafascinating little toNewJalpaiguri has two‘ranges’. Na- handicraft workshop handicraft Manas Manas National Park lonelyplanet.com MMES (Manas (Manas im-

NORTHEAST STATES

9am- 601 h Around Oguri Hill (Padma Park; Park; (Padma (literally (literally can’t be proven can’t be proven for even better for even better Ganeshgarh temple . The bearded chap . The bearded chap , a -shaped pond , a U-shaped bih-jolokia Agrigarh Hill (NB Rd; per hr Rs 20; (NB Rd; per hr Rs (Cole Park; Jenkins(Cole Park; Rd; adult/child/

11am-4pm) 221016; Jenkins Rd; r without/with AC 9am-8pm) 8am-7.30pm) 222083; Ranu ‘old wing’ Singh Rd; s/d h % h h

224276; KK Rd; s/d Rs 250/400) ( Softec Point % Facing Chitralekha Udyan, two Facing ) (

% (

ancient sculptures a , 250m north of the Baliram the Building of , 250m north Chitralekha Udyan SOME LIKE IT HOT SOME LIKE IT HOT there’s Incredibly How hot is a chilli pepper? A a whole science to measuring spiciness. Sco assesses peppers in grading system scores ville Units of pungency. Pimento sauce tops 2500 and Jalapeño 500, Tabasco peppers go up to 8000. But that’s nothing to Tezpur’s compared ‘poison-chilli’) which has been recorded at ‘poison-chilli’) which has been recorded made it the a phenomenal 1,041,427. That until March least At pepper. world’s hottest by a Dorset 2006 when it was out-hotted Naga chilli grown in unexotic rural England.

Tourist Lodge Cross town to boulder-strewn Cross town to boulder-strewn Hotel Luit Brahmaputra River as it boldly caresses the caresses as it boldly River Brahmaputra is access underbelly. Internet town’s central at available Rs 330/550; Rs 200/300, ‘new wing’ Rs 600/700, with AC Rs 1000/1200) Close to the bus station, the Luit is on a banks. Nearly 1km east along the narrow, along the narrow, banks. Nearly 1km east lane, winding riverside Nonetheless site. fortress to be Banasura’s fire and plentiful statuary lovely views are river legend. the Usha vividly illustrates (adult/child Rs 5/2; and towards across the river both views of Himalayan horizon (if the the white-toothed haze clears). Sleeping & Eating Hotel Durba the bus station, Durba’s clean, 400m north of toilets sit-down flush rooms have windowless bathrooms. in tiled private and geysers 10pm) restaurants. Sights At lawns dotted manicured wraps around pretty with fine costume is Banasura. in Mesopotamian-style A block east then south, faces a ghat on the wide, sandy Brahmaputra blocks south of the bus station, the Tourist blocks south of spacious rooms excellent-value offers Lodge with bathrooms and mosquito nets. camera Rs 10/5/20; camera Rs 10/5/20; adult/child Rs 10/5; Manas Manas

(www.as . Book- ASSAM •• Tezpur scarves. The will soon offer ac- offer will soon aronai Bansbari Lodge Bansbari Lodge Manas Director’s Field Of- (d Rs 600)

260935; Durgabari bath- shared Rd; with is excellent value, two blocks east is excellent value, two blocks ) % (

a 261413; [email protected]; Main Rd,

% ( 03712 / pop 59,000

Access is from Barpeta Rd, where lakes and the enchanting views of the mighty views of and the enchanting lakes % most attractive Assam’s is probably Tezpur parks, attractive city thanks to beautifully kept TEZPUR TEZPUR at 9.40am and 1.10pm, and overnight to New at 9.40am and 1.10pm, and overnight Mothanguri at 11.15pm. To reach Jalpaiguri Barpeta at Koklabari, is available jeep rental Rd and (for guests) at Bansbari. from just north of the railway line. Trains run Trains the railway line. from just north of from Barpeta hours) Guwahati (three Rd to 6am. Barpeta Rd–Bansbari buses (Rs 10, 1½ hourly till around 4pm twice leave hours) A single daily Pathsala–Koklabari bus (Rs 15, A single daily Pathsala–Koklabari at departs around 2pm, returning two hours) Guwahati–Kokrajhar buses serveGuwahati–Kokrajhar Pathsala Barpetajunction and pass within 3km of road. fice Barpeta Rd). GETTING & AWAY THERE ahead through the man-eating tiger in the lounge. Bring food and in the lounge. man-eating tiger Book months diesel fuel (for the generator). the seven-room with its enchant- upper lodge ing views across the Beki and a stuffed River lodges are 20km north of Bansbari beside the 20km north of are lodges border crossing. Chooseunguarded Staying at Mothanguri within the park is Staying at Mothanguri within the park is top highlight. Two simple, lonely Manas’s MOTHANGURI LODGE LODGE MOTHANGURI AC d Rs 850; Municipal the sprawling Rd behind Main of Market. Guest House Travels in Guwahati ( p598 ), which sometimes ), which p598 ( in Guwahati Travels buy full jungle-tour demands that foreigners day packages. sambengalnavigation.com/bansbari.htm; d Rs 1250) by Jungle handled ings (100% essential) are paratively accessible and can be appreciated in and can be appreciated accessible paratively delightful comfort from WESTERN RANGE WESTERN RANGE (though probably you’ll for tigers Famous only see is com- their claw marks), this range are planned. are cottages with private bathrooms. Homestayswith private cottages that sells Bodo traditional Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book Jhobgang Jungle CampJhobgang room d/s 60/100, private bathroom s/d from Rs 150/250, with commodation in traditionally styled Bodo stilt in traditionally styled commodation NORTHEAST STATES the bus station. the busstation. leaveat 6.30am.Private buses fromoutside Dirang (Rs205,7½hours) viaBomdilaleave ziranga (Rs50,twohours). APST for buses and forJorhat (Rs 90, fourhours) viaKa- departures forGuwahati(Rs110,five hours) pass regularly), then600meast. NH52 (alongwhich Balipara-bound buses fences. Itsguardedgates are 10kmupthe ringed withrazor-wired affair dating military (US$64, 40minutes). Theairportisanintimi- ($170,3¼hours) flights goviaJorhatKolkata rive fromShillong. OnTuesdayandSunday operate onWednesdaywhenyoucouldar- Direct (US$94,1¼hours) toKolkata flights Rd) 083/231657; Jenkins Near theTouristLodge, Getting There&Away bar withcityviews. House food inAC comfort,whiletherooftop ( and cheap breakfasts. Semismart house floors of gooddining.Theground-floor ( is mended).Taxes 25%. sweaty climbtothe5thfloor(unlesslift offerings have agingbathtubsandrequire a rooms are rem Rd. Receptionisprofessional andbudget small lanelinkingKK/Jenkins RdwithMain 602 h % The busy The modernglasstower (or Sonitpur),theCity ofBlood. site hasbeenknownever sinceas Tezpur resulting carnagewassoappalling thatthe troops andanalmightybattleensued. The Lord Krishna’sgrandson.Krishnasentin his punishment. Buttheladturnedoutto be feeding as Aniruddhatohispetsnakes ura wasnotahappydemon.Hepondered his wayinandsecretly marriedher. Banas- dashing prince,Aniruddha,magic ally found away unwanted suitors. The ployfailed.A impregnable ‘fire (Agrigarh) fortress’ tokeep daughter herintoan Ushathathelocked wassooverprotectiveking ofhisbeautiful Banasura, thethousand-armeddemon- BLOODY TEZPUR 10am-10.30pm) 232726; cnrNB&NC/SCRds) SA • Aon epr ASSAM ••AroundTezpur ( ( h h 6am-9pm) 8am-9.30pm) bus station arkably reasonable, buttheAC offers IndianandChinese istheIndianAirlinesagent. serves SouthIndianfare serves isanopen-sidedsnack (KK/Jenkins Rd) (KK/Jenkins

Anand Travels Anand Travels contains several contains Baliram Building hasregular China Villa ( % dosa Chat 220

in bird-watching strolls notelephant-backed topped horizonpeaks. forested foothillscrownedbyalineof white- Bharali riverbank, above layers which of rise restaurant. Atdawn,walk1.3kmtotheidyllic beds andthere’s anatmosphericopen-sided thatched constructionoffers great-value dorm the experiencerelatively luxurious.Abigger sturdy bedsandthatched-roof shelters make ‘tents’, but colourfulfabrics,private toilets, fireside are magical.Accommodationisin 1305 perboat).Evening dancesroundthe ing two-hourornithologicalraftingtrips(Rs ‘membership’) ( delightful of Potasali’s Balipara). hamletGamani,12kmnorth at one-house theTezpur–Bhalukpongoff road(turneast rhino adventures. Accessisfrom 20/250; Picturesque AROUND TEZPUR corner of Padun lake. Pukhuri twicehourlyfromthenorthwestroughly andGamani(forNameri)leaveBalipara around Hotel Durga. and Tawang have theirbookingcounters especially satisfying whena‘team’especially satisfying of several oculars). One-hourelephant-back rides are including greater storks(take bin- adjutant alongwithplentyofswamp deer bird life, viewing chances forrhinos, elephantsand most accessibleonegenerally offers thebest There are ‘ranges’, butthecentraland several represents over two-thirds of theworld’stotal. one-horned rhinos(upfromjust200 in1904) Kaziranga’s populationof around1800Indian 5.30am&6.30am, jeep access7.30-10.30am&2.30-5pm) rides of intheexpansivespotting safari flatgrasslands Assam’s must-do attraction is a % rhinoceros- KAZIRANGA NATIONALPARK before theArunachal ‘border’. lukpong’s busymarket. shortly Turnright River. TheTouristLodge is300meastof - overlooking of asweep theBharali/Kameng cottages grassyarea arranged aroundaraised ( tinue to % % If the Eco-Camp isfull,youcould con- If theEco-Camp Sumos forZiro,Along,Bomdila,Dirang Buses toBhalukpongBuses (Rs28,1½hrs) via Kaziranga NationalPark Kaziranga 03776 03782-234037; cottageRs550-650) 9435250052; dm/dRs100/1150plus60perperson h Bhalukpong Nov-Apr) organises allNamerivisits,includ- Nameri National Nameri Park specialises inlow-key, specialises walk- where the ( h 1 Nov-30Apr,elephant lonelyplanet.com hasappealing (Indian/foreigner Rs Tourist Lodge Tourist Potasali Eco-Camp Eco-Camp , 2km .

NORTHEAST STATES 603 This ) 262699; s %

( 262429; s/d Rs262429; offers bar- offers

% 262085; www.old Gymkhana Club ( % ( is a could-be-any- ) a 262675; www.bonhabiresort.com; Aranya Lodge Aranya area where giant hornets where area % Suave modern rooms, some Suave ( )

Network Travels Motel a Wild Grass Resort . central market 2311303; Club Rd; green fees Rs 100) fees 2311303; Club Rd; green 0376 / pop 70,000 Bonhabi Resort Cafeteria meals (Rs 30 to 50) are served 30 to 50) are meals (Rs Cafeteria at and less attractive, attractive, and less % Bustling Jorhat is the transit point for reach- Bustling Island. The 1876 ing Majuli ( golf if you can rustle clubs. Jorhat’s gain-value meets the main (Gar-Ali) commercial street a Rd) in front of (AT east–west thoroughfare lively Getting There & Away Getting There & Away Buses between (Rs 150 to 210, six Guwahati (Rs 60, two hours) and Jorhat or Tezpur hours) or Dimapur all pass through on the Kohora Network buses the even divert NH37. Many 800m up to the Tourist Complex for a lunch stop. A small Public Call Office (PCO) directly Rhino can book bus seats.west of Gate If of your chances stranded you could increase a ride by takingto the twice-hourly local bus Bokakhat (Rs 10), 20km east. Overnight tours from Guwahati run regularly to Kaziranga (see p598 ). UPPER ASSAM Jorhat % assam.com; d season/low season Rs 1600/900; assam.com; d season/low season is so justifiably resort delightful, ecofriendly popular that it doesn’t even bother with a sign. like you feel makes room décor Raj-inspired on safari, dining room the atmospheric you’re serves a food and there’s fabulous Assamese swimming pool. summer-only jungle-edged performed dances are Krishna Accomplished nightly Wild Grass is 600m in the garden folly. Km 373 (4km east of the NH37, south of off essential. In season,Kohora). bookings are where concrete hotel but the better rooms have rooms have better but the hotel concrete where bar. and a restaurant and there’s AC the two-room COMPLEX BEYOND THE sprinkled Rs 500 house-hotels are Uninspired Rhino the NH37 east of Gate. along 2km of value, nor as good as equiva- great None are However,lents in the Tourist Complex. there options. better two much are s/d Rs 1200/1400; with AC, are very comfortable but the experi- very are with AC, noise. by all-night generator ence is marred 630/690, with AC Rs 750/860; with AC Rs 750/860; 630/690, d Rs 450)

ail- 262429; d Rs within the ASSAM •• Upper Assam % (

24 hr) 262423; s/d Rs 210/260) h % (

elephant-ride booking office 262428; 262423; dm without/with linen Rs % ( 262423; s/d ground floor Rs 320/380, 2nd % ( Prashanti Cottage

% . A taxi to and from the elephant- ( has spacious, whitewashed rooms has spacious, whitewashed

Bonoshree Lodge

has perfectly passable and 12-bed three- has perfectly Range Office 6-7pm only) has six modernist split-level units. Bigger National park fees for Indians/foreigners: National park fees services an armed escort (Rs 50 tip of customary)

Better hotels can organise all bookings, Better all bookings, can organise hotels Elephant rides start from November, but at startElephant rides from November, Elephant ride Rs 120/750 Rs 200/200, including the toll fee Vehicle Camera Rs 50/500 Video Rs 500/1000 Rs 20/250 per day Entry fees h „ „ „ „ „

690) in a two-storey building with wicker furniture. furniture. building with wicker in a two-storey The excellent floored bathrooms in a long, green bungalow. bathrooms in a long, green floored Bonani Lodge floor Rs 350-410) offers aging but well-renovated rooms with tile- aging but well-renovated offers Kunjaban Lodge 25/50) walk of the Range Office.walk of Booking ahead is required. wise is often and advance payment TOURIST COMPLEX TOURIST COMPLEX within a five-minute the following are All of October) prices drop at least 30%. Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating to mid- closes (May Park When Kaziranga

paper work and jeep rentals for you at mini- work and jeep rentals paper extra cost. able across the complex’s grassy central square,able across the complex’s is the which just east of ( Kaziranga Tourist Complex, 800m south of 800m south of Tourist Complex, Kaziranga (from Rs 550) is av rental Rhino Jeep Gate. (2km north) till you’ve paid relevant fees at fees paid relevant (2km north) till you’ve the on the NH37. Don’t head for the park entrance on the NH37. Don’t head For Kaziranga’s central range, everything is central range, For Kaziranga’s by an That’s marked close village. to Kohora obvious Rhino the Km 378 marker near Gate cially dry years the park opens for jeep the park safariscially dry years from mid-October. Information improving visibility, and by February new new visibility, and by February improving more tempt cooler temperatures sprouts and In espe- into the open. venture big game to feel like sailing mysteriously on a green sea. on a green sailing mysteriously like feel offThe grass burns in December or January that time grass is elephant-highthat time grass the ride can so ele phants makes pincer movements, surround- movements, pincer makes phants ele frightening without ing rhinos them off. Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book dorms. ride departure point costs Rs 150 extra. ride departure NORTHEAST STATES 425/950; MG Rdtowards Titabor. wildly. Thengal is15kmsouth of Jorhatdown dinners vary less. Opinionson the Rs360set sues. Thecheaper twinis smallerandwindow- have damppatches andthere are hot-water is- George VIaddatmosphere butsomewalls poster bedsandmedalcertificates fromKing looks incredibly grand.Oldphotos,four- s/d/twRs2300/2875/2300) ings 9954451548;Jalukanburi; mown lawns, (Rs7, 45 minutes). Moabondha station Jorhat–Furkating localtrains(7amand5pm)to on NH37(theJorhat–Deragaonroad)ortake site is7km downruraltracksfromKm442 arebut standards homyratherthanlavish. The and verandas. There’s someantiquefurniture dates fromthe1870sandhaswonderfullawns tagetourismindia.com/sangsua.html; dRs1500-1800) Bookings are essential. laxing, do-nothingheritage-style getaways. bungalowsofferColonial-era tea estate re- TEA ESTATE GETAWAYS Around Jorhat hours) departat1.45pm,exceptSunday. to Guwahati(2nd/AC chair Rs127/420,6½ hours) passingKaziranga enroute. Trains quently toTezpur orGuwahati(Rs200,eight (Rs25,1½hours)Sivasagar andfairlyfre- fogwilling. and Guwahatiflights, ways you’ll find next doortothefadedHotel Paradise inwhich cellent-value 10-dishAssamese thalis(Rs35). ex- (open noonto4pmand8pm9pm)serves rooms withalittlesoul.Itslobby-restaurant ( hotels. dozen passable (onATStation Rd),SolicitorRdhashalf-a- andacresa ‘ChillBar’ of marble. a smartnewbusinesshotel withobligingstaff, ( ist Lodge Tourism Assam College, MGRd; the small Head 400mwestalongAT Rdthensouthtofind buzz aroundgolden-brown pilesof jaggary. 604 % % Handy forthetrainstation, With classicalporticoandwide, cow- timeshourlyto ASTC runseveral buses Sangsua Heritage Hotel Tucked conveniently behindtheASTC Bus 2320610; SolicitorRd;dRs200-400) 2309972; Gar-Ali; rfan/ACfromdRs650/1100 2309972; Gar-Ali;

( SA • UprAsm ASSAM ••UpperAssam % a

( 2325652) % museum ) ( isareliable newmidrange choice, % Indian Airlines 2321579; MGRd;s/dRs210/330) h (

% 2385075; bookings 9954451548; www.heri 2385075; bookings Thengal Manor Thengal offering twice-weekly Kolkata offering Kolkata twice-weekly 10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) ( 2321579) % (admission free; Postgraduate Training (admission free; PostgraduateTraining 2321719; SolicitorRd;dfan/ACRs inthegood-value ( % Hotel JanataParadise Hotel 2320011) ( has budget fan hasbudget fan % Hotel GKPalace Hotel and nearby andnearby 2339519; book- and . Sangsua Sangsua ;

a Jet Air- Jet Tour- ) is

traditionally styledthatched onbam- house a green Garamurbacklane,this isanewbut further north.Themostinteresting, acces- from where themainvillage boxed text, opposite ). at oneof Majuli’s 22ancient learning aboutneo-Vaishnavite philosophy thelocalMisingpeopleand include meeting water meadowsandfish trapshere, attractions tly contemplative landscapesof ricefields, the world’slargest river island.Amidthegen- shifting puzzleof includes sandbanks The great grey BrahmaputraRiver’s ever- % Majuli Island minutes). Jorhat byshared autorickshaws (Rs10,40 ( p598). to visitMajuli Travels Island.BookviaRhino per person) are aparticularlyconvivialway From here theone-daygrouptours (Rs800 has traditionallystyledhut-accommodation. furnished tent/bamboohut/luxurycottagedRs600/1200/2000) Resort River launch (Rs50),newlyopened river-island reached fromhere byprivate to Majuli deserted Island.Onanotherwise point for photogenically overcrowded ferries isthedepartureThis windsweptsandbank NIMATIGHAT space ata Vaishnavite philosophy canusually arrange exciting dive. actively Those interested inneo- Island Danny Gam( cally madefabrics.It’srunbylocalguide/fixer boo stiltswiththree bamboo bedsandlo- ing bag. Accommodation isvery basic:bringasleep- SLEEPING or duringthebig drama recitations are arounddawnanddusk chanting, dancesor best chances of observing little bari), where monksare keen toshowyoutheir Kamalabari) and Kamalabari Uttar sible ofweek November). Ferries arrive 3kmsouthof At thecentralcrossroads inGaramur, Nimatighat isaveryNimatighat potholed12kmfrom La Maison deAnanda La Maison 03775 satras ( museum % 274712; s/d/trRs120/240/350) are the large, beautifullypeaceful Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

( % of Ahomroyalartefacts. The % guesthouse. (1kmnorth,then600meastof 9435357171; [email protected]; 9435205539). 9435205539). Auniati Auniati Ras Mahotsav Festival Mahotsav Ras

( % (5km westof Kamala- 274768; dmRs150) Garamur satras isaless-than- Mou Chapori Mou Chapori Kamalabari (see the (see is5km (third Majuli On Hotel Hotel ,

, NORTHEAST STATES (ad- 605 Rang . From . From is the last Devidol a large, a large, 8am-5pm) 8am-5pm) , h h (Indian/foreigner Rs 5/100; (Indian/foreigner (Ahom ammunition (Ahom ammunition is its , look right to see satra . It’s not as tall as Sivasagar’s Talatalgarh are highly spiritual, but don’t highly spiritual, but don’t are Golagarh the extensive, two-storey Ahom two-storey the extensive, 24hr)

, lift-bridge is a monastery of neo-Vaishnavism, of neo-Vaishnavism, is a monastery h Satras (Indian/foreigner Rs 5/100; (Indian/foreigner (Indian/foreigner Rs 5/100; Rs (Indian/foreigner satra

8am-5pm) SATRAS SATRAS A Assam’s distinctive form of everyman-Hindu- distinctive Assam’s by 15th-century Assamese ism. Formulated philosopher Sankardev, the faith eschews and idol worship, focuss- system the caste as God, especially in his ing on Vishnu Krishna incarnation. Much worship is based around dance and melodramatic play-act- ing of scenes from the holy Bhagavad Gita. heartThe of any simple, prayer hall usually open sided and simple, prayer hall usually open sided and shaped like an oil tanker Be- sailing west. end, an inner sanctum neath the eastern flame, the Gita and possibly hosts an eternal (but not divine) im- a horde of instructive ages. expect anything enormously photogenic. 1720s temples built by ‘dancing girl queen’ 1720s temples is the Most impressive Phuleswari. KARENG GARH GARH KARENG unadorned, this 1752 brick if largely Dramatic palace capital. the Ahom’s pre-Sivasagar of remnant a rises like structure The unique four-storey an attrac- above pyramid sharpened, stepped setting that’s slightly forest-and-paddy tive spoilt by nearby electrical transformer substa- the Sivasagar–Sonali tions. It’s 900m north of (14km). Gargaon road: turn just before GAURISAGAR for Sivasagar, Gaurisagar a practice run Like distinctive tank and a trio of has an attractive TALATALGARH TALATALGARH dramatic) (if not incredibly famous This Rd from is 4km down AT Ahom ruin complex beyond a WWII- Some 2km central Sivasagar. era metal Garh Ahom ‘pavilion’, oval-shaped this two-storey buffalo watched once elephant and monarchs fights. 700m beyond turn left, continue Just passing the to reach store) h Rangpalace ruins. Like the lumpy brick Garh, gardens and its beautifully tended structure viewed at a dis- most attractive arguably are tance from the entrance gate. mission free; mission free; , temple , whose six harbour manager harbour manager 222629; fax 225184; econ- %

( is within the great-value is within the great-value . At the tank’s southwest cor- 2222394; s/d Rs 210/260) ASSAM •• Upper Assam , India’s tallest Shiva temple. , India’s tallest temple. Shiva . % ( rising proudly above the tank’s the partly rising proudly above Hotel Shiva Palace

Assam Tourism 9435203421) 03772 / pop 64,000

Around 500m from Shivadol (south then Around 500m from Shivadol

The ASTC bus station has severalThe ASTC hourly % their 17th- and 18th-century heyday. squeezer-shaped temples and ochre-brick and ochre-brick temples squeezer-shaped during ruins built by the Ahom monarchs Around Sivasagar Around Sivasagar many lemon- around SivasagarDotted are ticket counters on nearby AT Rd. For Kareng Rd. For Kareng on nearby AT counters ticket busesGarh, use (Rs 10, 45 minutes), Gargaon BG stop on depart from an unmarked which 50m right. Rd then Rd, 300m north up AT services and Dibru- (Rs 26, 1½ hours) to Jorhat buses private have Many (Rs 38, 2¼ hours). garh swish omy s/d Rs 480/576, with AC & hot water from Rs 875/1000) along AT road close to the ASTC bus station. road close to the ASTC along AT these is the surprisingly The most appealing of large rooms have clean tiled floors. clean tiled floors. rooms have large hotels a gaggle of east on Hospital are Rd) ner, Tourist Lodge ing the tank’s western side is the red-painted ing the tank’s side is the red-painted western Museum Assam Tai proach path and its interior is eerie. Dominat- is eerie. path and its interior proach shaped feature whose golden covering the the whose golden covering shaped feature in tried (but failed) to pilfer British reputedly 1823. Several ap- sit along the temple Shivadol Mandir Its uppermost trident balances upon an egg- queen Ambika. Three typical Ahom Three queen Ambika. towers wooded southern banks include 33m-high

% oil-service was once the capital town of This for over ruled Assam the Ahom dynasty that Sivasagarits name (‘waters takes 600 years. a feature, from its graceful central Shiva’) of reservoirrectangular in 1734 by Ahom dug Sivasagar (Sibsagar) Sivasagar (Sibsagar) drive to Garamur (Rs 10) via Kamalabari to Garamur (Rs 10) via Kamalabari drive to rent. easier are three-wheelers where GETTING AROUND GETTING AROUND buses then meet arriving ferries Jam-packed ( at 7.15am and 2pm. The ferry schedule makes makes schedule 2pm. The ferry at 7.15am and your you charter unless day trips pointless 4000); ask the own boat (Rs (adult/jeep Rs 12/450, 2½ hours) returning returning (adult/jeep Rs 12/450, 2½ hours) GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING & AWAY THERE from passenger little ferries Packed-full Nimatighat and 3pm depart at 10.30am lonelyplanet.com incorporating a decent, AC restaurant. incorporating a decent, AC NORTHEAST STATES cases choose theupperroomsthathave choose cases pol- Indian trance music. lit lounge withbottle-spinning barmanand Hotel,RKBPath;Regency beersRs90) pizzas. doughy serves Rd;mainsRs20-60; Mancotta ship décor. Upbeat little upstairs bar-restaurant withelementsof space- by’s Assamese textiles. motifs. SpotPrincessDianaamongst thelob- children’s playarea andsomelocalfurniture 805/1035; ( coldshowers.attached with tired, basicbutcleanbudget roomsand 230/345) feel.heritage ished hardwoodfloorboardsandawonderful Rs 1600) Bungalow 1000) s/dmainBldgRs2000/3600,s‘executive’ Rs Rd, Mancotta; 1849 lightful colonial-era tea bungalowretreats: thede- Apr-Nov) hour Given three days’noticeitcanorganise two- date departureswith set (OctobertoApril). (around Rs7000perday,includingmeals) tours, vehicle rental and CollegeRd,JalanNagar) Medical the mainbusstation. is onConvoy/TRPRd Rdthen300mright cotta Across therailwaytracks,1kmsouthonMan- Rd;perhrRs20; (Sachit Studio,Mancotta plus there’s fast-connectioninternet at Around thisjunctionare manyplacestoeat, After 800mRKB Path Mancotta meets Rd. ing HSRd(which leadstothemarket area). Path followstherailtracksnortheastpass- Ziro–Along–Pasighat route (see p620 ). Kaziranga aloopbetween closes andthe Travelling to‘tea-city’ Dibrugarhusefully % Dibrugarh road atKm501.5. themainNH37Sivasagar–Jorhat just 50moff if they’re is significantlyeroded.Gaurisagar even Shivadol butsportsfinerstonecarvings, 606 % Near the train station, Near thetrainstation, Discovery Purvi H20 East EndHotel RKB From DibrugarhTowntrainstation, 0373 /pop122,000 2326322; RKBPath; s/dfanRs345/564,ACfrom , 4kmfromtown,and SA • SuhAsm ASSAM ••SouthAssam tea estate visits estate tea

, 700m from the bus station. Inboth , 700mfromthebusstation. , justoffHSRd,isconveniently central, . Purvi alsohandlesbookingsfortwo . Purvi (Mancotta Rd;mainsRs50-110,beers55) (Mancotta a

(Convoy Rd;s/dupstairsRs1500/2600,downstairs ) has bright, modernrooms, ahas bright, Mancotta ChangBungalow Mancotta

( % ( % 2322698; New Market; s/dfromRs 2322698; NewMarket; (admissionRs400; 2301120; www.purviweb.com; 2301120; www.purviweb.com; El Dorado h organises regional Flavours 10am-10pm) isasuave, under- horse-riding Jalannagar South Hotel Indsuriya Hotel (

% h

( % 2326805; City

h 10am-9pm) nearby (Mancotta (Mancotta

2326438; trips Tue-Sat isan Ajmera .

(passenger/bicycle/motorbike/elephant Exact departureExact pointsvaryaccordingtothe sportdomedcentralsun-shelters.ing canoes hamlets like route give of scenicglimpses isolated riverside an umbrella andsunscreen. Briefstopsen (5½ hours downstream onreturn), sobring ter hours andthe journeytakes aroundeight There’sIt cancarryjusttwojeeps. littleshel- a bustoPasighat (Arunachal Pradesh, p621 ). where dailytoOriamghat it’smetby cruises Rs 67/44/199/4190,vehicle Rs1500to3087) 4pm (3AC/2AC Rs865/1275,14½hours) isthe The best-timedovernight trainforGuwahati Mancotta Rdorfromoutsidethetrainstation. wahati (Rs265to320,12hours) leave from 1½ hours). Various toGu- overnight services 68 to90,fourhours) andTinsukia (Rs23, (Rs38,2¼hours),for Sivasagar Jorhat(Rs depart three timesanhourtillmid-afternoon short atMohanbari market. three-wheelers (Rs10)fromAT Rdstop500m theTinsukiabrugarh, 4kmoff road.Shared Mohanbari airportis16kmnortheastof Di- Airlines .flykingfisher.com) Air Deccan THERE&AWAYGETTING Hotels are great value. cess at There’smain busstation. patchy internet ac- Rds converge atasmallroundabout nearthe andParkzoram orTripura. Club, Central Shillongin longjourneysbetween andMi- Flat, sprawling Silchar % Silchar city of Silchar issafe. but furthersouth,thepredominantly Bengali long embroiled inabloody‘turfwar’.Visiting ‘Black Widow’,ledbyJewel are Gorlosa) also namedsubfactions(like poetically tists whose ous insurgency separa- fromDHDDimasa The attractive SOUTH ASSAM 10 hours). combinationticketjeep toPasighat (Rs250, Hotel Brahmaputra’s water Dibrugarh’s level. The rough-and-ready DKOFerry ASTCFrom themainbusstation buses 03842 /pop155,000 , isnotadvised, onceapopularhillstation, ( Kamrup Express % ( CyberMagic % 2320143; Talkiehouse Rd)

(www.airdeccan.com) 2300114; CircuitHouseRd) Berachapuri Berachapuri flytoGuwahati,while Cachar Hills Hills Cachar (

% 261837; Park Rd; .

offers awelcomebreak and and are seri- suffering sells ajeep-ferry- sells Tinmil fliestoKolkata. lonelyplanet.com Kingfisher h , where fish- 8am-10pm) Indian

(www Kusum Haf- . NORTHEAST STATES 607 0620- % 10am-4pm Mon- 10am-7pm) h (MTDF; h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) (Keating Rd; 9am-9pm) Central but very h (Excise Lane, Kacheri Rd; h (Kacheri Rd; (Malki Point; 2306102; Zara’s Arcade, Keating Rd; (Kacheri Rd; (Thana Rd; % ( Eastern and central Meghalaya are mainly are Eastern and central Meghalaya 9am-8.30pm) Bright comfy. and relatively 10am-3pm Mon-Fri) 0364 / pop 268,000 9am-8pm)

populated by the closely related Jaintia, Pnar Jaintia, by the closelypopulated related ), originally mi- p609 (see and Khasi peoples h h cramped. POST POST Post Office TOURIST INFORMATION Cultural Pursuits Adventures INTERNET ACCESS INTERNET ACCESS Rs 20 per hour. fast, all charge None are CyberTech Enter-The-Web Mookherjee’s Cyber Café Techweb MONEY many currencies of cheques Cash and travellers but not Taka. can be exchanged, Indian Overseas Bank State Bank of India halaya is home to the unrelated Garo tribe Garo tribe unrelated halaya is home to the ethnic their different ). Despite p612 (see groups both use a backgrounds, these two inheritance, children of matrilineal system taking family name and babies the mother’s carried on the father’s back. often SHILLONG % hill sta- 1874 until 1972, this sprawling From Since British Assam. tion was the capital of Independence it has developed into a fairly typical modern Indian town, but it still retains and the air is refreshingly charm elements of rain. of cool, if you don’t mind a good chance Information h grants from Southeast Asia. Western Meg- Western Asia. grants from Southeast 66552; www.culturalpursuits.com; Basement, Hotel 66552; www.culturalpursuits.com; Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Exchange upstairs. , is is 10am-5pm) 282311) daily budget h % ( an has kly to Agartala (Rs kly to Agartala 231738; Club Rd; s/d from Rs 245672; s/d from Rs 170/290, % 245649; Club Rd; 246764; Narsingtola; s/d from Rs 246764; Narsingtola; s/d from Rs (

has budget rooms that are rooms that are has budget % ( % %

is neat, new, if not quite as as is neat, new, if not quite ( ( )

•• Shillong MEGHALAYA a Kumbeergram airport is a new six-storey tower with Art tower is a new six-storey ) a Hotel Geetanjali

Indian Airlines Agartala220 Guwahati 310 250 7pm Jowai 11+ 5.30pm 375 250 Shillong 12-15 325 8-11 7.30am, 6.30am 205 (ASTC) 7am, 325 6-9 6.45am, 7am, 7.45am To fare Bus (Rs) fare Sumo (Rs) Duration (hr) Departures SERVICES FROM SILCHAR SERVICES SILCHAR FROM

Buy bus and sumo tickets from various from various Buy bus and sumo tickets full Shillong For Jowai you’ll usually pay the Silchar’s Hotel Kanishka Hotel Kalpataru Four minutes’ walk from the bus station, Four minutes’ and carving out some of Asia’s longest caves. caves. and carving longest Asia’s out some of tation falls April to September (and mostly at waterfalls impressive some very night), creating horseshoes of rocky cliff above the Bengal rocky cliff plains,horseshoes of above statistically are Cherrapunjee and Mawsynram this precipi- places on earth. Most of the wettest (The Abode of Clouds) is a cool, pine-fresh con- Clouds) is a cool, pine-fresh of (The Abode plains. Set on dramatictrast to the sweaty Assam Carved out of Assam in 1972, hilly Meghalaya Meghalaya Carved in 1972, hilly Assam out of MEGHALAYA buses join guarded military convoys making slow: consider breaking dreadfully progress ). p616 (for Unakoti, the trip via Kailasahar fare except on slow ASTC buses. For Agartala, buses. For Agartala, on slow ASTC except fare flights to Kolkata. . above around the bus station; seecounters minutes), and thrice wee Air Decc 3855, 35 minutes). which flies daily to Kolkatawhich (Rs 5675), Gu- wahati (Rs 3855) and Imphal (Rs 2810, 30 (per person/car Rs 70/350) depart from out- Rs 70/350) (per person/car side 30km northeast. Shared Ambassador taxis 30km northeast. Shared the first paved link street between Park and between Park link street paved the first Central Rds. Deco designs on doors and a grandfather clock and Deco designs on doors stylish and more It’s cheaper in the little lobby. Borail View. Take Hotel than better-known 290/520; with AC d Rs 550; 150/265, with AC d Rs 550) than its gloomy foyer suggests. better much down a narrow passageway before Indian Air- before down a narrow passageway lines, lonelyplanet.com plush as its lobby suggests, and right suggests, beside plush as its lobby the bus station. NORTHEAST STATES h namental bridge interested inselling(good-value)tours. JailRd; .nic.in/tourism; concrete, butareas like retain Oakland many tecture ratherswamped bydrabIndian hasbeen ever-attractive Colonial Shillong wasarranged around the COLONIAL SHILLONG Sights &Activities Tourism Meghalaya Office ofIndiaTourist Government for cavingandvisitstoruralMeghalaya. Pegasus Crown; 608 basic maps. GS Rd; To Barapani(18km); 4 1 3 2 SHILLONG Guwahati (98km) 5.30am-5.30pm Wed-Mon) Dawki (71km) Cherrapunjee (Sohra)(56km); Elephant Falls(11.5km); To ShillongPeak(9.5km); Hotel Embassy...... Hotel Boulevard...... Earle HolidayHome...... Baba TouristLodge...... Pinewood Hotel...... Monument...... Iew Duh...... Das-Roy House...... All Saints'Cathedral...... Techweb...... Survey ofIndia...... State BankofIndia...... Post Office...... Police Station...... Mookherjee's CyberCafé...... Meghalaya Tourism...... Indian OverseasBank...... Government ofIndiaTouristOffice.... Enter-The-Web...... CyberTech...... Cultural PursuitsAdventures...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION adsLk...... D2 Ward's Lake...... Khasi MonolithsandMini EHLY • Siln MEGHALAYA ••Shillong h 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pmSat)Free, 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, AC h . The city’s half-timbered archi- . Thecity’shalf-timbered Ward’s Lake (Bara Bazar) by arrangement) Experienced agency by arrangement)Experienced 36 Iew Duh h ( % To DonBoscoMuseum Museum ofIndigenous (1930) Sureka House Cultures (1.5km) 6.15am-7.30pm) Mostly

30

2226220; http://meghalaya withitsphotogenic Mawlonghat 29 15

(admission/camera Rs 5/10; (admission/camera Rs5/10; ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ 31 37 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 22 21 20 19 39 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Jaia C1 C1 C1 C1 D1 C3 B1 C3 C3 C2 C4 C2 C2 C1 C2 C1 C2 C1 C3 C1 C1 w (

Rd % Wahingdoh B Skye Asia(HotelCentrepoint)...... Little Bites...... City HutDhaba...... Hotel Shantiniketan...... Bus toJowai...... Bus toCherrapunjee...... Cloud 9...... (see27) Café CoffeeDay...... TRANSPORT DRINKING EATING oe ano...... C1 Hotel Rainbow...... 2225632; Rd Museum (200m) To Wankhar Entomology Bouchier Rd or-

ὈὈ GS Rd GS

Nongliat Park Po lice Bazaar Rd Bazaar lice Phan 19 22 a biscuittin.Nearbytheturreted 2 terspersed justoccasionally withgratuitous well laid-out collectionof tribalartefacts in- h logical College;Indian/foreigner Rs90/150,student30/50; Indigenous Cultures The very professional MUSEUMS that harbours five forgotten circle tothepublic)lurksbehind atraffic (closed Saints’ Cathedral (atleastfromtheoutside).The1902 night retreat, isparticularlyiconicandlooksgreat at remain. The a miniSoviet-style Thana Rd 24

older houses and even inthecentre andeven older houses afew gems TSS Rd 4 12 8 27 9.30am-3.30pm) Jail 23 21 35

Rd

28 Rd Quinton

Bazaar Ramakrishna Police Rd 26 Centre 32

30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23

6 14 Keating Jail Rd 7 C1 C2 C1 C1 A1 B1 C2

ὈὈ ὈὈ 1

34 16 Pinewood Hotel Rd Kacheri 33 5 25 Jail

(Kachari Rd) (Kachari 9 Indian Airlines(ShebaTravels)...... Deep...... (see 32) Bus toSmit...... Shared JeepstoJowai...... Shared JeepstoGuwahati...... Dawki...... Shared JeepstoBarapani...... Network TravelsCounter...... Khasi HillsTouristTaxiCooperative.. Shared JeepstoCherrapunjee& C1 MTC BusStation...... Secretariat displaysatruly vast,very 13 20 10 3 11

(www.dbcic.org; Sacred Heart Theo- (www.dbcic.org; Sacred Heart Polo GroundBusPark(700m); globe monument To GingerRestaurant(200m); 38 0.3miles 500m 0 0 Malki Point Siat Khnam(1.1km) Shillong Club would look perfect on wouldlookperfect on Ward's Lake Don Bosco Museum of Don BoscoMuseum Botanical Gardens , a1920stea-growers Sumo Counter 18 Castle (2km);Smit(11km); Khasi monoliths Khasi for Aizawl lonelyplanet.com Gurudwara D Das-Roy House Nartiang (52km); To HotelTripura . Bhavan Sikh Camel's Raj To StAnthony's Jowai (52km) School (400m) 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31

Church Back Mizo 17 B2 C2 B1 A1 C1 C2 C1 B1 and and

Rd Rd All All Bivar

NORTHEAST STATES 609 9.30am- h 2500747; Thana Lane; s/d 2228614; Oakland Rd; d from 2211285; GS Rd; s with shared 2211285; GS Rd; s with shared Ageing but clean and Ageing % ( Central yet quiet, bright % % ( 2223164; [email protected];

(

% ( (adult/child/camera Rs 5/3/10;

(1960m) and the picnic spot at (1960m) and the picnic Embassy Shoebox bed spaces are squeezed into bed spaces are Shoebox

The cheapest rooms are original half- rooms are The cheapest . While pretty enough, neither are exactly enough, neither are . While pretty Hotel Earle Holiday Home Baba Tourist Lodge Hotel Shantiniketan The easy-to-miss Siat KhnamThe easy-to-miss is a small site when a different version is played. Timings Timings is played. version a different when by season.can vary somewhat timbered affairs within a classic 1920 Shil- timbered and looks long hill house turrets that has little with fairly lightssweet at night. when decked less atmospheric if more Pricier rooms are There’s annexe. comfortable in a new concrete Rs 50/100) a sagging old wooden house that could use escapes. What did you fumigation and fire is spoken. expect for Rs 50? No English bathroom Rs 125, s with private bathroom Rs 250-300, d with private bathroom Rs 400-475) Baba hides behind lar with backpackers, popu The best rooms small PCO shop. a deceptively cherry windows and views onto the rear have showers. Bucket blossoms. AC Lane; s/d from Rs 200/300) to the many other clean compared and very (30%) hefty ‘taxes’ Beware nearby. of cheapies good, rea- and ‘compulsory’ meals (perfectly sonable value). about 1km. The ground is almost opposite the is almost opposite about 1km. The ground housing area. entrance to an army officers’ Tours (Rs 120) Tourism’s city tours Meghalaya at unsuspecting tourists to a viewpoint take Shillong Peak Elephant Falls 4pm) mind-blowing. Sleeping seasonal and highly are negotiable in Tariffs the low season. fill During peak periods hotels around choices dozens of are fast, but there looking. so just keep the Police Bazaar area grassy area approximately opposite the big opposite approximately area grassy bank. To Nehru Stadium on the south river Church, head east past the Mizo there drive fork left up Bampfyled crossing Rd, then after turn left: descending to the river, the hill and your to is almost immediately the ground right. down to the footpath If walking, take Con- Hotel. Restaurant/Polo Towers Ginger then turn Market, tinue just beyond to Polo Mandir the Matri right. Walk in front of road for the riverside (north side) and along Rs 350)

(betel) (betel) . •• Shillong MEGHALAYA kwai jaiñnkyrsha is a remarkable is a remarkable kublei Wankhar Entomol- (bull versus bull bull (bull versus (traditional ruler). (traditional ruler). syiem yaturmasi at Bara the Bazaar is one of 2544473; Riatsamthiah;Rs 25; admission % (

market Many Khasi women wear a 11am-4pm Mon-Fri by arrangement) or chewing a semireligious habit. Khasi markets chewing a semireligious rotation and some vil- work on an eight-day lage fairs feature you in Khasifights). Thank is KHASI CULTURE CULTURE KHASI with timeless stone dotted Meghalaya is as memorials for tribal monoliths erected still Local Khasi ‘monarchies’ are chieftains. nominally ruled by a Although they might lack political power, a consider- the Syiem of Mylliem remains controlling able economic force effectively Shillong’s vast Iew Duh market (see above), feted while the Syiem of Khrimelaborately is ). p610 ( festival at Smit’s annual Nongkrem pinafore in gingham-checked cotton, fas- in gingham-checked pinafore with a on one shoulder and overlaid tened tartan shawl. Most Khasis consider The memorably named The memorably at 3.30pm and 4.30pm daily, except Sunday It’s effectively a lottery but the shooting is a a lottery It’s effectively usually are Shoots fascinating spectacle. gently trussed target. Those that stick are counted counted Thosetrussed that stick are target. this total. the last two digits of and bets predict unique ‘sport’: a semicircle of photogenic old photogenic unique ‘sport’: a semicircle of arrows at a straw- of hundreds Khasi men fire All around Shillong gambling windows offer gambling windows offer All around Shillong odds on Siat Khnam. This is a ‘Forecast’ SIAT KHNAM KHNAM SIAT selling everything from tribal baskets to fish to fish selling everything baskets from tribal course, on Except,traps and edible frogs. of Sunday when everyone goes to church. most animated in the northeast. Thousands of in the northeast. Thousands of most animated Khasi their villages tribespeople flock in from IEW DUH IEW DUH This vast one-room display of pinned butterflies, grue- pinned butterflies, one-room display of some Rhinoceros stick- beetles and incredible collector. the original insects in the home of ogy Museum h Nongkrem festival ( p610 ) or you could choose p610 ( festival Nongkrem films. alternatives from various over an hour departing on the half-hour. For half-hour. an hour departing on the over the video explains a 16-minute an extra Rs 50, symbolic tower, seven storeys high sevensymbolic tower, seven for the storeys (compulsory) last the northeast. Tours states of galleries on Christian missionary work. The work. missionary on Christian galleries museumhexagonal an impressive, building is Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book NORTHEAST STATES Keating Rd; Keating and goodcakes at panelled bar Platinum(beers Rs120). stroganoff. isthefuturistic, metal- Attached dishes includecrepes,nental cannelloniand chairs atShillong’s suavest restaurant. Conti- h ers.com; HotelPoloTowers,Bazaar;mainsRs90-200; Indian food. 130) isless atmospheric butoffers excellent Galerie Downstairs La morphing laterintoth daintyThaidishesandcocktails, rant serves and great views,thistop-floor lounge-restau- 180; evenings. they’re open-sided sobringacoatforwinter is inattractive, flower-decked pavilions, but long’s bestfood’andactuallydelivers. Seating Home, modestlypricedCityHutboasts‘Shil- h Rs 10-25) waved snacksis eat eries alongThanaRd.Brighter formicro- withmanydrearyBazar butinexpensive Cheap street aboundaroundPolice stalls Eating &Drinking that’shardtobeat. ofand alevel service vibewithsomeperiodfurniture Balinese slightly behind. Pine-framed roomshave agently stylish, building ally inamostlynew,ifpseudo-heritage in hotel brochures, butaccommodationisactu- maharajas. It’sthisprivate ‘castle’thatfeatures turreted summervillaof theformerTripura away onawoodedhillsideisthedistinctively Colony;s/dfromRs1680/2160) Cleve heritage.com; the stylish top-floor bar-café. cheapest rooms.Don’tmiss theviewfrom inthe even unusually luxuriousstandards outforitsmodernistchic stands and evard dozens of similarlypricedhotels, theBoul- ThanaRd;s/dfromRs820/948) yahoo.co.in; room 103withalittlebalcony.). by afriendlymancalledVicky.Thebestis décor(butnogeyser) aresauna-style managed Rs 750) Dhaba, see below ). also agreat, inexpensive restaurant (CityHut 610 Skye Asia City HutDhaba Castle Tripura Hotel o Ginger Restaurant . Hotel 11am-9.30pm) 11am-10pm) h EHLY • Aon hlog MEGHALAYA ••AroundShillong Nine new, pleasantly styledroomswith Ninenew,pleasantly , whilejustbeyondthere’s real coffee 1-9.30pm)

h Rainbow Rainbow Hotel

( 10am-10.30pm) % Sinkintodesigner cream-leather Tucked behind Earle Holiday Holiday Tucked behindEarle With wood and rattan chairs Withwoodandrattan ( 2225210; HotelCentrepoint; mainsRs70-

% Boulevard Boulevard ( % Little Bites 2220386; Oakland Rd; mains Rs 40-110; 2220386; OaklandRd;mainsRs40-110;

( Café CoffeeDay Café %

2222534; GSRd;dRs550-650,tr ( % 2222341; www.hotelpolotow (1st fl;mainsRs50to . e Cloud 9bar e 2501111; www.tripuraroyal ( %

2229823; boulevard@ (Keating Rd; dishes (Keating

(Hotel Mi Casa, (Hotel Mi Amongst Tucked Tucked -disco. train station is Guwahati), hourly minibuses isGuwahati),hourlyminibuses train station counter (nearest railway-reservation terised weekly). Bookatthe weekly). Sunday) andTura(Rs1525,1½hours, thrice hati (Rs725,30minutes, twicedailyexcept buses arebuses infrequent and antiquated. Faster and tinue toGuwahatiairport(Rs170). 125/90, 3½hours). Someshared con- taxis leavetaxis/sumos frequently toGuwahati(Rs Bazaar) work Travels counters including aroundPoliceBazaar, from thePoloGround;booktickets from hours), Silchar, DimapurandAizawldepart iguri (Rs350,18hours), Agartala (Rs450,21 (Rs 202,12hours viaGuwahati). toSilchar (Rs151,10hours)buses andTura to Guwahati(Rs64,3½hours), andovernight ( Cherrapunjee, north of Shillong (Rs600bytaxi). (Wednesday). Theairstrip isatUmroi,35km turning viaeitherJorhat(Monday)orTezpur Rd) Indian Airlines Getting There&Away the Jowai road. long (Rs 8 bychuntering local bus),4kmoff (traditional ruler). Smitis11kmfromShil- thatched bamboo performed infull costumeinfrontof the dance and acuriousslow-motionshuffling val Smit hoststhemajor five-day Framing culturalcentre, astheKhasi itself Smit AROUND SHILLONG Taxi Cooperative hires, contractavanfromthe for aone-waytripwithintown.Forlonger (Rs 7to10perhop)butifemptywantRs50 Shared runfixed black-and-yellowtaxis routes Getting Around (Rs20,40minutes). 1¾ hours) andBarapani hours), Dawki(Rs70,twohours), Jowai(Rs50, (Sohra;including toCherrapunjee Rs40,1½ Bazaar, full fromvariouspointsaroundBara much more frequent, shared leave jeeps when % The MTC alsohasacompu- busstation flies from Kolkata toShillong fliesfromKolkata (Rs6030)re- For mostdestinationswithinMeghalaya From aKacheri Rdparkingarea, shared More forSil- private comfortable buses 8kmtowardsFrom anairforcebase (October). This feat (October). This 2223129) and Deep offers toGuwa- helicopter flights

Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com ( % ( %

(

2222747; Shop44,MUDAComplex,Police Meghalaya Transport Corporation Transport Meghalaya ( % % 2223015; Sheba Travels, Ward’s Lake 2223015; ShebaTravels,Ward’sLake 2223895; Kachari Rd) 2223895; Kachari ‘palace’ 9836047198; Ward’s Lake Rd) 9836047198; Ward’sLake MTC busstation MTC ures animalsacrifices of the local Tourist Tourist Hills Khasi Nongkrem Festi-Nongkrem .

(Jail Rd) (Jail syiem . . Net-

NORTHEAST STATES

611 was once was once (Km 142) Inspection Pamshutia Pamshutia , a scatter- Umngot Creek (pop 6000) is (pop 6000) is Pongtung Durga temple Nartiang (pop 27,300), the district , usually refuses tourists. tourists. , usually refuses forest of monoliths Jowai (Km 146) amid waving betel-nut betel-nut (Km 146) amid waving (d Rs 100) . It then descends through mildly pic- Mawsun 03562 doesn’tNartiang probably justify a special All public sumos from Dawki to Shillong All public sumos from Dawki to Shillong The Cherrapunjee also en- Holiday Resort 2km from Mawshamok. This hike is highly is highly This hike Mawshamok. 2km from a truly hair- there’s en route and strenuous to cross, but the scenery bridge raising wire is magnificent. where waters are dotted with flimsy local with flimsy local dotted are waters where trip from Shillong (54km each way), but if (54km each trip from Shillong route, the Silchar–Shillong travelling you’re the endless coal from blessed respite it offers the main road: trucks. Nartiang’s 12km off turn northeast at Ummulong. By public trans- in port change Hills. Jaintia Meghalaya’s eastern of centre Shillong–Dawki–Sylhet is considerably easier Shillong–Dawki–Sylhet southbound. JAINTIA HILLS % rolling countryside (think in pretty, Situated Sussex with rice), famous for its behind wannabe tucked brained Stonehenge Raised football pitch. the village to honour kings, the highest stone is almost the Jaintia 8m tall. Around 1km away, the famous but over-renovated heavily used for human sacrifices. Spot the ‘endless once heads were severed hole’ into which tipped. Canyon like Khasi villages turesque and a suspension bridge palms, finally crossing blue-green the surreally over boat race is held fishing boats. A colourful every February. here depart by 11am (3pm on (Rs 70, 2½ hours) early after- days), mostly returning market Bangla- from noon. If coming northbound desh, sleep early as and start in Sylhet very Dawki’s only accommodation, the Bungalow courages summer ‘monsoon tourists’ to ex- summer ‘monsoon courages place, hand the world’s rainiest perience first its drama of thunder and the its unforgettable storms. brewing Dawki pop 5500 to Dawki for the only go probably You’ll the journey but Bangladesh border-crossing, includes a dramatic 10km sec-from Shillong the vast green tion along the lip of

is is

(mini- 4.4km

, Nohkalikai for views for views , a pretty, , a pretty, (admission free; (admission free; . Mawsmai’s . Mawsmai’s ficus elastica

Tyrna 03637-264218; www are much more more much are Mawsmai Cave 235762; s/d Rs 350/450) %

( , 17km north of Shil- north of , 17km , living % Mawshamok 9am-4.30pm) ( monoliths h is a hydroelectricreservoir (admission/camera Rs 3/10)

Barapani •• Jaintia Hills MEGHALAYA (known locally as Sohra) has has Sohra) (known locally as ‘root-bridges’ and prodded through the sad, . Access requires at least 1½ hours’ at least 1½ hours’ . Access requires viewpoint Sohra Plaza Hotel Umiam Lake

are particularly dramatic. You can see are 9am-2pm) 03637

Tour buses of BengaliTour buses of sightseers are Better than any of this is descending the Better this is descending the than any of palm-clad village that’s 5km from the resort, 5km from the resort, that’s palm-clad village Nongriat down from steep trek very trained across streams to form natural path- trained across streams these (includ- root bridges of ways. Three near are ing an amazing ‘double-decker’) incredible incredible have Khasi roots that ingenious villagers tree with a local guide (Rs 70 to 150). The most with a local guide (Rs 70 to 150). The most these is a visit to the absolutely exciting of They offer a selection of hikes, either self- hikes, a selection of They offer orientated maps) or (using their hand-drawn .cherrapunjee.com; Laitkynsew village; d Rs 720-840) Laitkynsew village; .cherrapunjee.com; comfortable and run by truly delightful hosts. ther along the ridge, the six-room, ecofriendly the six-room, ecofriendly ther along the ridge, Cherrapunjee Holiday Resort mum fee per group Rs 60; mum fee soot-blackened ex-stalagmites of the mildly ex-stalagmites of soot-blackened 150m-long claustrophobic, rapunjee’s whisked on to a minimal museum on to at Cher- whisked official seasonally The waterfalls. inspiring Falls the entering them easily enough quite without leys that plummet away into deepleys that plummet away bowls lush sprayed by a succession of tropical forest of and scarred by quarrying. Much more im- more by quarrying. Much and scarred val- ‘grand canyon’ is the series of pressive over-played ‘Scotland of the East’ soubriquet, ‘Scotland of over-played with Khasi dotted monoliths though they’re all huddle beside the . Nearby Nearby all huddle beside the marketplace. Meghalaya’s somewhat justify moors grassy room Cherrapunjee Cherrapunjee (Sohra) (Sohra) Cherrapunjee % Although straggling for several kilometres, has a couple of resort hotels. hotels. resort of has a couple The sumo stand, one- a compact centre. simple two- shop and internet computer that’s popular for water sports and picnics and sports and picnics for water that’s popular Umiam Lake Lake Umiam Accessed from long, lonelyplanet.com h tall row of roadside tall row of than the cave. impressive 14km narrow road to back up to the falls and cliffs. Few places in in places back up to the falls and cliffs. Few Just 3km fur- scenic. more the northeast are southwest of Sohra market. market. Sohra southwest of NORTHEAST STATES remain traditionallyfashioned frombam- ally distinctive, but cottages insmallhamlets ers andbamboo thickets. Townsaren’t visu- of depleted junglechoked withgourd-creep- orange slash-and-burn orchard tosad hillsides patchworks of ricefield,cassava-patch and landscape’s undulationsvaryfrom charming from GuwahatithanShillong. The the rollinggreen Garo Hills are easiertovisit administrativelyAlthough withinMeghalaya, % GARO HILLS long Rd;s/dRs150/300) Jowai’s sorry when fulltillaround5.30pmfromjustbeyond Jowai–Shillong sumos(Rs50,1½hours) leave and continuetoShillong evening. thesame Nartiang the 7amSilchar–Shillong bus,see it justabout possibletoarrive inJowaion from Nartiangaround3pm.Thatmakes the centralmarket. Thelastonebackdeparts share (Rs10,35minutes) taxis leave from archery competitions. the accompanimentof music, dancingand when towers of clothandwood are erected to larly lively duringtheJuly dressed localwomen.Thetowngets particu- market isfullof architecturallyAlthough drab,Jowai’svibrant 612 Astoundingly overfilled Jowai–Nartiang planned wellahead. soyou’llneedtohave The nearest Bangladeshconsulates (Tripura), orAgartala are inKolkata Visas leave at7.30am. 350m fromthecheckpoint:walkthroughfieldofcoalstacks!TrainsSylhettoDhaka Frequent Tamabil–Sylhet minibusespickupfrom(butdon’tterminate at)atriangularjunction taxinSylhet(55kmfromTamabil)your Tk300Bangladeshdeparture orinJaintiapura(17km). bewarethe checkpoint’sIndianside. thatTamabil Northbound hasnoSonalibank,soprepay towalk,asthere’s expect usuallynothingbutmassedcoaltruckswaitingatbut northbound The borderpostisatTamabil, That’s market. Rs30bytaxi(southbound) 1.7kmfromDawki Onward Transport moneychanger canusuallyhelpout. There’s noofficialexchangeboothbutaskattheBangladeshcustomsofficeandafreelance Foreign Exchange The borderisopen from6amto5pm. Border Hours CROSSING INTOBANGLADESH 03651 EHLY • Gr il MEGHALAYA Hills ••Garo Hotel NewBroadway Hotel kwai . -chewing, traditionally Behdienkhlam festival Behdienkhlam (

% 212714; Shil- Rs 390/500) lent Garofood. excel- modation option.Itsrestaurant serves cultural festival intoafour-day formalised been Wangala dances and superstitious Nonetheless ‘witch doctors’ are stillactive thatch. Around80%of Garos are Christian. boo-weave mattingandneatlycroppedpalm of souls’. ally considered by Garo peopleasthe ‘abode National Park hirecan organise jeep tovisit the where asimple (Rs100, fourtofive hours,Baghmara 6am), els andGoalpara. between the 2.3km to Siliguri(Rs280,1517hours) crossing buses runs handyifgrindinglyslownight part at6.30amand2pm. Tura–Guwahati sumos(Rs230,sixhours) de- a traditionalstyle possible towatch forHoolock Gibbons from hike to zaar, canarrange guidesforthethree-day Mon-Fri) Tura’s capital. (Asananggri), 18kmnorthof (cnrHK&CircularRds) Tura’s , 4kmoutof towntowardsNazingBa- ork Bopee Reserve Biosphere Nokrek isthebestandmostcentralaccom- tourist office tourist Naranarayan Setu (entrance45kmaway), tradition- (earlyNovember) at before the harvest. These have These before theharvest. Tourist Lodge Tourist Rikman Hotel Hotel Rikman jhum borang offers shared sumosto ( % villages stillpractise Aashirwad Aashirwad (Garo tree house). (Garotree house). 242394; ( % road-railbridge ( % lonelyplanet.com 222141; dmRs100) Tura 220744; s/dfrom , where it’s h Balpakhram Balpakhram ( , theGaro % 100-Drum Dura Trav- 10am-5pm Asanang 222217)

NORTHEAST STATES 232 613 Kharchi %

( . . Flanked by . Flanked (Temple of of (Temple (admission Rs 3;

Gedumian Mosque has interesting has interesting 10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Mon-Sat, are decaying quietly are % south gate Jagannath Mandir , 7km east down AA Rd 2225930; www.tripura.nic (HGB Rd; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) % mausoleums (

2380566; www.tripurainfo.com) Useful 2380566; www.tripurainfo.com) h . To see the palace’s compara- Tripura Government Museum Tripura % ( royal is like a mini Brighton a mini Pavilion. is like Old Agartala Chaturdasha Devata Mandir Chaturdasha Devata (Welcome Palace Hotel, HGB Rd) Hotel, (Welcome Palace (Palace Compound West) Compound (Palace festival in July. festival 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat & Sun) Helpful and 3-5pm 5.30-6.30pm) The small Several The curious, mosaic-fronted Fourteen Deities) hosts a big seven-day Puja Sleeping rooms with pri- offer here All places listed have rooms generally bathroom. AC vate geysers. 6444; http://tripura.nic.in/museum/welcome.html; Post Office6444; http://tripura.nic.in/museum/welcome.html; Cir- cle; admission Rs 2; around from excavations recovered artefacts gallery shows maharajah The upstairs Tripura. portraits, including one with Tagore. behind Batala market. (Masjid Rd) OLD AGARTALA Tripura’s second of remains Nothing much capital, though the small, (the NH44) at Kayerpur, pointy Sights Sights is the strik- indisputable centrepiece Agartala’s ing, dome-capped ponds, the whitewashed reflecting two large by Tripura’s 182nd 1901 edifice was built It looks particularly impressive Maharaja. floodlit at night, can a spectacle that strollers from enjoy for just one hour daily, entering grand the relatively h (now the Tripura unspectacular interior tively sign in between state assembly chamber), 2.30pm and 3pm, weekdays free) (admission Of four Hindu to the caretaker. then report around the palace compound, much temples the most fanciful is MONEY MONEY SBI ATM State India Bank of UTI ATM TOURIST INFORMATION TripuraInfo Tripura Tourism .in/ttourism1.htm; Swet Mahal, 1st floor, Complex; Palace h can organise With sufficient numbers staff enthusiastic. tours. many great-value 10am-1pm Sat) Counter 31 (top floor) changes cash and Counter 31 (top floor) changes 10am-1pm Sat) but allow at least an hour. travellers cheques, news and tourism website. 7am-10pm; TRIPURA •• Agartala h 9am-9pm) h 2323781; JB Rd; % ( ) Welcoming, well-stocked bookshop a (6 Sakuntala Rd; per hr Rs 20; (Santipara; per hr Rs 20;

9am-9pm; ) Best of several closely grouped options. 0381 / pop 189,330

Compared to the shy greetings and glances to the shy greetings Compared h selling local postcards. a Bluesky Netzone INTERNET ACCESS Jnan Bichitra Bookzone BOOKSHOP BOOKSHOP just 3km east of the centre. the centre. just 3km east of Information freshingly organised and manageable if you’re if you’re and manageable organised freshingly arriving from Bangladesh, whose border is Tripura’s low-key capital is centred on the capital is centred Tripura’s low-key re- The town feels Palace. imposing Ujjayanta % ity can seem a little invasive. But compared to But compared ity can seem a little invasive. Bangladesh,neighbouring relaxed. it feels AGARTALA elsewhere in the northeast, Tripura’s more in the northeast, Tripura’s more elsewhere and slightlyforthright forced hospital- stares While attacks are rare, they do happen. they rare, While attacks are cles must travel in armed convoys through cles must travel road. the Agartala–Kailasahar two sections of The Agartala, Udaipur and Kailasahar areas Udaipur and Kailasahar areas The Agartala, is serious However, there safe. generally are All vehi- instability in north-central Tripura. saw dozens of armed groups fightingsaw for – and dozens of an independent state. of against – the creation Dangers & Annoyances refugees leaving the local Borok- leaving refugees Resulting tensionsa minority in their own state. became a major benefactor of Bengali benefactor of renais- became a major sance poet-philosopher Rabindranath Tagore. Tripura with BengaliIndian partition flooded then Old Agartala (Kayerpur) and finally and finally (Kayerpur) then Old Agartala In the 1880s Tripura’s maharajah Agartala. Before in 1949, Tripura (Twipra) joining India its own Hindu royalwas ruled for centuries by based at Udaipur, first family (the Manikyas), History History from Kolkata. However, if you’re expecting the expecting from Kolkata. However, if you’re Rajasthani castles, Tripura of exotic grandeur little. might seem relatively a long detour for ing, and the state’sing, and the temples royal palaces and domestic tourists growing flow of now draw a Tripura is culturally and politically fascinat- Tripura is culturally TRIPURA TRIPURA Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book NORTHEAST STATES damp patches. some bathrooms alreadyHowever, suggest tiled anddoubles have alittlesittingarea. new hotel’s great-value AC roomsare neatly with fanfromRs375/500, withACfromRs500/750; scalding hotshowers andmulti-channel TV. superb food.Roomsare neatifnothuge with and zealousroomservice lish-speaking staff, a charnet.in; HGBRd;s/dfromRs220/330,withAC Rs550/660; showers. Peaceful yet central. simple roomshave mosquitonetsandcold cheap andquite bearable,theChandana’s Compound Lane;s/d/trRs95/210/285) 614 (11km) To Airport Border (3km) To Bangladesh 4 To Airport 1 3 2 AGARTALA (12km) Hotel WelcomePalace Hotel ChandanaGuestHouse Hotel Radha International Radha ) Thishard-to-beat optionhashelpfulEng- 25 Restaurant Rajdhani...... Restaurant KurryKlub...... (see15) Abhishek Restaurant...... Radha International...... Hotel WelcomePalace...... Hotel CityCentre...... Hotel ChandanaGuestHouse.... Executive Inn...... Ujjayanta PalaceSouthGate...... Tripura GovernmentMuseum.... Royal Mausoleums...... Jagannath Mandir...... Gedumian Mosque...... Tripura Tourism(SwetMahal)...... State BankofIndia...... SBI ATM...... Netzone...... Jnan BichitraBookzone...... Bluesky...... UTI ATM...... (see15) EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION RPR • Aatl TRIPURA ••Agartala Market Batala 9 AC 26 To (53km);

Udaipur (55km) Gangail Rd Gangail

( %

( % 2384530; 54CentralRd;s/d 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 2384940; bantob@san D1 C2 D3 C4 C3 D2 C3 C2 C4 A4 C2 D3 C2 B4 C2 C2 C3 D3

( Lacklustre but Lacklustre

HGB Rd % Train BookingOffice...... (see21) Taxi Stand...... South BusStation...... Sherowali Travels...... Sagar Travels/NetworkTravels... Motor Stand...... International BusTerminal...... Indian Airlines...... TRANSPORT anTT u tto...... B3 Main TRTCBusStation......

Thakur Palli Rd 5 2311216; Palace

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IGM Akhaura Rd This ) HGB Rd ὈὈ and youthful,with25roomsin10categories.

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10 Mantri Bari Rd Bari Mantri

Hotel CityCentre Hotel Inn Executive

Jagannath Bari Rd (JB Rd) (JB Rd Bari Jagannath 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19

15 West Compound 17 Palace A4 A4 D3 D3 D3 B3 D1

NS Rd 2 8 14 4

Palace Compound Lake

North (VIP Rd) Durga Bari

Mandir Sakuntala Rd Sakuntala Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Water Tank 3 Ujjayanta

(

Wholesale

Palace % Market Rd Airport Old To BangladeshVisaOffice(2.5km);

Football

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a Pitch ( Guest House Guest

( Rd Central

2325047; 9 Mantri Bari Rd;soldBldg Bari 2325047; 9Mantri %

% 11 6 La Compound Forest Department(4km);

Water Tank Masjid Palace Playfulfake-forest décor Motor Stand Rd

) Rd 2385099; jaininn_pvtltd@yahoo 200m 0.1miles 0 0 2208635; Top fl, Hotel Rajdhani, 2208635; Topfl,HotelRajdhani, Mandir Sri Laxminarayan 19

16 23 13 Palace Compound East Compound Palace MG Bazaar 24

Mandir Ummaneshwar Old Thana La BK Rd BK 18 dopiaza Santipara D

LN Bari Rd (Kayerpur; 7km) 22 To Chaturdasha Devata Mandir;

1 Masjid

Old Agartala Rd a CR Rd includes

AA RD New New ) a 7

) NORTHEAST STATES 615 Interna- .

Motor Stand 8am-7.30pm

h ( (NH44 extension, Km 23; visa applications 9am- e that opens. h at Agartala’s main bus main at Agartala’s spectacled monkeys , a local picnic and boating train-booking office . 8am-5pm Sat-Thu) The planned new Assam–Agartala railway The planned new Assam–Agartala Northbound sumos use busy the Northbound For Udaipur (Rs 20, 1¾ hours) and Mela- hours) For Udaipur (Rs 20, 1¾

6am and noon buses6am and 25 (around to Guwahati (21 hours) to 500) via Shillong Rs 355 hours, tion continues, plagued by extortion and by extortion and tion continues, plagued a groups. There’s attacks from insurgent computerised Mon-Fri,Sun) 8am-11.30am AROUND AGARTALA sightsSouthern Tripura’s best-known could be combined into a long day trip from though sleepingAgartala, Neermahal at is of All transport passesworthwhile. the gates Sepahijala Wildlife Sanctuary and 6am buses 14 (Rs 190 to 220, to Silchar state-run buses 4) are (Counter TRTC hours). serve and also somewhat cheaper (Rs Kailasahar daily bus to Dhaka (Rs 68, seven BRTC’s hours). use232, 1pm) will the gleaming new onc tional Bus Terminal (Motor Stand Rd) usegarh (for Neermahal; the Rs 20, 1½ hours) south bus station. Construc- beyond Manu. has yet to progress spot famous for its station. h 2324807; Airport Rd, Kunjaban;

% (

all 2325685; 2222013) 9am-1pm & 9am-1pm & % % Jet Airways (

(

, h Scrumptious Scrumptious ) . However, most Reliable Indian- 2384940; Hotel Welcome Hotel Welcome 2384940; 2328296; Durga Bari2328296; Durga Rd; a (www.flykingfisher.com) (www.flykingfisher.com) % % 2310398) (

( hides down a small lane in Agartala, about 2km north of the Ujjayanta Palace. hides down a small lane in Agartala, about 2km north the Ujjayanta Palace. of 10am-10pm)

Bangladesh visa office %

( h 2325470; VIP Rd; (www.airdeccan.com) 11am-10pm;

TRIPURA •• Around Agartala Kingfisher main TRTC bus station % ( h . Tickets are sold at Counter 1 for sold at Counter are . Tickets and Sagar Travels/Network Travels Air Deccan

, Sherowali Travels 2341400) 1pm, visa collection 4pm) Visas northeast’sThe only Onward Transport From central Agartala the border is just 3km along Akhaura Rd (Rs 15 by rickshaw). On the town is Akhaura, Bangladesh side the nearest 9km beyond. Locals pay Tk 50 (around Rs 30) by Tk 250. Akhaura train sta- ask over often ‘baby taxi’ (autorickshaw) but supply is thin and drivers further for Dacca–Sylhet trains continue 3km However, northtion is on the Dacca–Comilla line. depart hours) trains to Sylhet (five and 4.40pm. at 9.20am to Ajampur train station, from where to pay your Tk 300 Bangladesh departure tax at Sonali bank (the Coming eastbound be sure closed you On holidays when banks are is in Akhaura) heading for the border. nearest before but don’t count on it (if you immigration, at the hut before payment might be able to negotiate will be a modest supplement to pay). can, there The border is open from 6am to 5pm. The Exchange Foreign local travellers. money is hit and miss; ask no official exchange booth, so changing There’s CROSSING TO BANGLADESH AT AGARTALA AGARTALA CROSSING TO BANGLADESH AT Border Hours Turn right beside Barnali gift shop. The office is 30m ahead shop. The on your left. Same-day right beside Barnali gift service. Turn Private bus offices clustered on Durga Bari Rd on Durga bus offices clustered Private Abhishek Restaurant Restaurant Kurry Klub % and from the leave include immigration desk across the arrivals hall (yes, immigration desk across for domestic departures). Arrive early: before reaching the check-in the check-in reaching early: before Arrive at airline endorsed tickets you must get area then visit the outside the terminal counters thrice weekly to Silchar (US$91). Agartala’s (US$91). Agartala’s thrice weekly to Silchar 90 by autorickshaw. airport is 12km north, Rs ( fly to Kolkata and Guwahati. Indian also flies Indian Airlines 2-4pm) ing outdoor terrace or in a marine-themed ing outdoor terrace AC. dining room with good Getting There & Around mains Rs 60-100; mains Rs 60-100; Chinese-Thai food served an invit- either on tandoori chicken and gingery ‘Thai’ soup ‘Thai’ soup and gingery tandoori chicken served dining room whose in a small décor lighting striking if only the would be rather up. would be turned lonelyplanet.com Palace; mains Rs 40-150; mains Rs Palace; Thakur Palli Rd) Thakur Palli NORTHEAST STATES h a tively smartRs600AC rooms. Sarada GuestHouse visiting this 1930 royal folly, whose interior is interior is visiting this 1930royalfolly, whose boat Rs150/75) isthemost enjoyablepartof borne approach (permotorised/hand-rowed water-land inRudraSagar Lake. Thedelightful a long,red-and-white Tripura’s most is iconic building,Neermahal % Neermahal &Melagarh south of Udaipur. Tourism Tripura offers viewsfromsimplerooms.Bookthrough concrete the fish-filled over tank which thetwo-storey Diwali festival vihara the This gruesomelegend ispiouslycelebrated at legdroppedonMatabari.her divineright fell (see onKolkata When Sati’stoes p486 ), MATABARI Hotel Gouri helpful withlocaltips.IncentralUdaipur, rooms. Manager isextremely GuruPrasad Rs 200/400; palace. Rajbari ings) justbeyondthelumpybrickruinsof the Temple 10 minutes uphilltofindthe Cross theGomatiRiver, turnleftandwalk route totheflimsy pass three more ancienttemple complexes en famous Jagannath of statue Puri( p645 ). You’ll andonceheldthe from Udaipurbusstand, of huge kor Wat–style. Itsitsatthesouthwestcorner curious temple, overgrown withcreepers Ang- tively massive, patchwork of Ruinedbutstillcompara- tanks. remains dotted withancienttemples anda and Udaipur wasTripura’shistoriccapital % Udaipur 616 grounds asbloodythetemple’s vivid-red thatleavemost endlessanimalsacrifices the where a steady stream of pilgrimsmake al- (concrete replacement underconstruction). 9am-4pm) The temple is100meastof theNH44,4km Facing thefriendly Udaipurbusstand, ) 0381 03821 has acceptable fanrooms,plustworela- hasacceptable Tripura Sundari Sundari Tripura Mandir NAGALAND (small butcelebrated inTagore’s writ- . Even more peoplecome here atthebig , hardlyrecognisable asa17th-century Jagannath Digthitank Gonabati Yatri NiwasLodge a ( shimmering on its own boggy is- shimmeringonits ownboggy % (October/November) tobathein ) haswindowlessbutwell-kept

222419; CentralRd;s/dfromRs150/250; ( % Jagannath Mandir Jagannath Mandir 0381-2225930)

( % Badashaheb bamboobridge Badashaheb water palace water 225737; dwithout/withAC , a1501Kali temple . , around1km Bhuveneswari Bhuveneswari (dm/d Rs66/165) isthemost (admission Rs 3; (admission Rs3;

d without/withACRs165/330) koti balconies andthere’s agoodrestaurant. The pilgrimage centre famousfor8th-centurybas- excellent new ’s regional centre is Around 180kmfromAgartala, NorthTripu- % NORTH TRIPURA leave around4pm. from Melagarh toAgartala (Rs20,1½hours) (Rs 450,25minutes). Thelastsumosback consider chartering avandirect toNeermahal 11.30am and3.10pm.Alternatively, youmight at7.30am,10.30am, the Udaipurbusstand Melagarh, (Rs13,50minutes) leave minibuses andMatabari.bus stand FromUdaipurto lonia orSapbrumstopbrieflyattheUdaipur Frequent, ever-stopping boundforBe- buses Getting There&Away 1.3km fromMelagarh busstand. lodge is1kmoff theAgartala–Sonamura road, 165; dm Rs66,dwithACfrom330-440,without cent show. palace organises asound-and-light atthetouristlodge, peoplestaying the enough bare alickof andcoulduse paint.If there are ing) and the Konyakof Mondistrict, whose district (locallyfamedfor theircook- Wokha and Rengmaof Kohima district,theLothaof groupsinclude thedeveloped (asortofNagamese market Assamese). Major a‘neutral’linguafranca called cation uses ble languages. Today inter-tribe communi- mutuallyunintelligi-other anddeveloping theykept eachIn between busybyfighting anyintruders. off Naga tribesvaliantlyfought mapur. Forcenturies some20headhunting they formamajority everywhere exceptDi- border. inNagaland However, Asia andare distributed allalong theIndia/ The Nagapeoples originated inSoutheast NAGALAND turn heads. areas. Foreign touristsare very rare andwill requires transitingTripura’s mostsensitive Shiva. Reaching Kailasahar fromAgartala includinga10m-high relief rockcarvings, Boats leave fromneartheremarkably de- itself, itself, around 10kmaway,isanancient 03824 a Sagarmahal Tourist Lodge Tourist Sagarmahal ) where mostroomshave lake-facing Unakoti Tourist Lodge Unakoti Tourist isareal bargain. Kailasahar

lonelyplanet.com ( % , where the 0381-2544418;

( % 223635; Una- NORTHEAST STATES 617 is an (bachelor (bachelor Hornbill Festi- with various 227072; Secre-

central market 2220749; admission % contains graves of of contains graves ( morungs % (adult/child/car/bus Rs (adult/child/car/bus Rs ( , tribal people sell km north, includes km north, 3 , 2222124; cnr HE & Imphal Rds) % 6am-4pm) 2228751; yiese ( War Cemetery h % ( State Museum 8am-4.30pm winter, 8am-6pm summer) (Stadium Approach) Has an ATM. (Stadium Approach) Has an ATM. h 10am-3.30pm Tue-Sun) (borol). h 0370 / pop 96,000 / elev 1444m (1–7 December), is held here The superb At the fascinating if tiny Kisama Heritage Village [email protected]; Science College Rd) Neithonuo Science College [email protected]; The is an eloquent guide to local sites. (‘Nitono’) Yeise for tour guests. agency can arrange Nagaland permits tariat Bldg) To extend to permits. or add areas dormitories) and a full-size log drum. Naga- annual event, the land’s biggest long cultural, sporting and costumed dance celebration. This is the best opportunity to see in their traditional garb. Naga tribal ‘warriors’ with seven days of incredibly short-range gre- short-range incredibly with seven days of nade-lobbing across the net. Deuce! Rs 5; designs and plenty of a guide to tribal shawl mannequin-in-action scenes depicting tradi- tional Naga lifestyles. (Stadium Approach; ‘edible’ delicacies as wrigglingsuch hornet grubs 5/5/5/10; open-air museum 10km down the well-paved traditional-style Imphal road. The collection of differing tribal Naga buildings fully represents styles, including traditional val Information Information Secretariat, Home Department Tourism department Tribal Discovery UTI Bank Sights & Activities An immaculate killed fighting and Indian soldiers 1200 British during an intense 64-day WWII the Japanese its climax on the deputy This reached battle. (still marked) court commissioner’s tennis flies in daily from Kolkata (US$130, 1¼ Kolkata daily from flies in 1¼ (US$130, is 400m off The airport the Kohima hours). buses runs hourly NST town. of road, 3km out services (normal/super Rs 55/64, to Kohima (Rs 284, and daily to Shillong hours) three trains run to overnight Useful 12½ hours). to Dibru- and 9pm (6¾ hours) Guwahati at (eightgarh at 10.20pm hours). KOHIMA % a across capital is painted Nagaland’s agreeable span- and hilltops like ridges forested series of gled topping on a vast pistachio sundae. Naga tribes converging for a colourful week- Naga tribes converging

halfway ) 226355; Kohima a 229366/242441) 230245; Kohima Rd; % % ( ( % ( near an interesting near an interesting National Geographic National is a basic but acceptable Tourist Lodge NAGALAND •• Dimapur Hotel Avilyn Hotel Avilyn (admission free) Indian (Alliance) Airlines . The only reason tourists visit Dimapur tourists . The only reason 03862 / pop 308,000 / elev 260m See www.nagalandtourism.com for infor- It’s festival Nagaland that most tourists im- Nagaland that most It’s festival s/d Rs 500/700, with AC from Rs 700/945; friendly and super trendy, is to Rajbari Park clean. bus station, the market Right beside the NST to Kohima. is to transfer former palace complex dotted about scraggyformer palace complex dotted Rajbari Park the Ahoms showed up. All that remains are are up. All that remains the Ahoms showed a of phallic pillars some curious, strangely cial centre was the capital of a big Kachari a big Kachari was the capital of cial centre before Assam of kingdom that ruled much % uninspiring commer- Nagaland’s flat, largely district. Guides can be twitchy about takingdistrict. Guides can be twitchy jeep-eating potholes and of back roads for fear hefty ‘tolls’. charging armed bandit rebels DIMAPUR if you have a guide, you’ll possibly be expected possibly be expected a guide, you’ll if you have specific to employ another local guide for each wander into Naga villages unaccompanied: wander into Naga villages ask permission from the local headman. Even everything closes by 7pm and travel by night by everything closes by 7pm and travel to not expected You’re is highly discouraged. current security situation before visiting any- security situation before current virtually in Kohima Even in the region. where major Nagaland towns are stable, though can’t towns are Nagaland major the Always check totally safe. be considered Since 1947 Naga insurgents have battled for battled for have Since 1947 Naga insurgents and some remote an independent Nagaland control. Most partially under rebel are areas mation and p592 for permit advice. p592 mation and Dangers & Annoyances one Indian journalist, has beenone Indian journalist, has through ‘1000 in a lifetime’. years images, there’s still lots of interest in meet- in interest still lots of there’s images, in the words of ing a people whose culture, disappointment. if you lower your ex- But pectations from those perhaps in rural Mon district), some visitors some visitors perhaps in rural Mon district), spectacle to be a of find the contrasting lack agine when booking a Nagaland tour. And booking a Nagaland tour. agine when eas- Hornbill Festival December Kohima’s (except the trip. At other times ily justifies rior wear, loin cloth and all. rior wear, loin subtribe, while the men dust off their old war- their the men dust off subtribe, while villages have the most striking traditional ar- striking traditional the most have villages wear a Naga women For festivals, chitecture. for each distinctive that’s shawl hand-woven lonelyplanet.com budget option. budget Rd; dm/s/d Rs 40/150/200) NORTHEAST STATES One of cheapies several acrossfromtheNST Lodge fordeliciousbreakfast pastries. two minutes downthehillfromViewpoint small hilldirectly above Junc- PoliceStation Hill; s/dRs900/1200) Hill; vate buses toGuwahati (Rs330to375, 13to vate buses (normal/super Rs55/64, three hours). Pri- includingregular shuttlestoDimapur services, The NST offers busstation manyNagaland Getting There& Away fromhip-hopto choralfor sale to heavy rock. monthly live minigigsand CDsof Nagamusic is Kohima’s point, withtwice- youthmeeting instant coffee Rs10; worndécor.only slightly balconies, hotshowerstion hasglassed-in and tiled floors. Curfew is9pm. offers sparklinglycleanroomswithneatly south of ViewpointLodge thebusstation), internet Junction(1km cafés atPoliceStation s/dRs700/1000) PR Hill; rear balcony. price andviewsare fabulousfromtheshared roomsarebus station, unusuallycleanforthe Hotel Capital Sleeping &Eating rock festival (www.hornbillmusic.com). Kohima Simultaneously alsohostsaplay-off 618 Dream Café Café Dream Viewpoint Lodge Viewpoint Popular Bakery Japfü Hotel neighbouring communities. settlements are theirrecently inscribed‘treaty stones’recording peacesettlementsbetween continued intothe1980s,andacuriousfeature ofmanyoutwardlymodernchurch-crowned originally wars denoted Someintervillage thenumberofhumanheadsawarriorhadtaken. the hornsofa designsvaryconsiderably,thecentralmotifisusuallyaNagawarriorbetweenAlthough exact The mostinteresting gates woodenorstonedoors. retain carved theirmassively heavy,strikingly ing essentiallymodern,manyare stillsubdividedinto Naga villagesare percheddefensively ontopofimpregnable ridgetops. Althoughoften appear- NAGA CULTURE onry alldepicted. Asignofwealth, theless, severed motiffoundnotablyon headsare stillanarchetypalartistic where youngmenlive non-Christian communallywhilelearningtraditionalskills. drums.tree-trunk Villages thatare notyet100%Christianretain where theKonyakvillagesofMondistrict, areas, youmightalsostillfindvasthollow particularly are vanishingasthemodernworldcatchesupwithNagaland,butyoucanstillseetheminrural whose designstypicallyhadroundedorTorajan-shapedprow-fronts. TraditionalNagahouses AAAD • rudKhm NAGALAND ••AroundKohima Headhunting wasofficiallyoutlawedin1935,withthelastrecorded occurrence in1963.None- ( % ( ( % % h 2224365; Main Rd;s/dfromRs100/150) 2224365; Main This high-service hotel ona Thishigh-service

mithun (PR Hill; (PR Hill; 2290756; cnr Dimapur & Imphal roads; 2290756; cnrDimapur&Imphalroads; 2240211; [email protected]; PR 2240211; [email protected]; 10am-6pm) Perched above twohandy ( % 2241826; 3rd fl, Keditsu Bldg, 2241826; 3rdfl,Keditsu (distinctive localbovine), withsun,moon,breasts andweap- (forfertility) h Beneath UCO Bank UCO Bank Beneath 5.30am-8.30pm) mithun Stroll skullsalsoonceadornedtraditionalNagahouses

historic A painfully potholed18kmfromKohima, this Khonoma AROUND KOHIMA tothemuseum. orpassclose Secretariat totheNew thetraffic battlethrough minibuses tion Junction.Fromthatjunction,frequent Minister Hill,some200meastof Police Sta- 15 hours) departaround2.30pmfromOld ploring the Mondistrictvillages of the at allaccessible byroad,your bestbetisex- NagavillagesTo findsemitraditional thatare NORTHERN NAGALAND views. Theculturalprogrammeisexcellent. flowergarden withgreatin adelightful sunset traditionally styledNagathatched bungalowsset 800/1200/1200) Village Tuophema Tourist chung, anintriguingovernight optionis If you’re Kohima drivingbetween andMokok- Tuophema is guesthouses views. Thebestof three simplehomestay- steps leaduptothe‘ these, ‘doors’. oneof Through stylised ess/wealth). Several with mithunskulls(denotinghuntingprow- are not antique butsomeare stilldecorated megaliths, graves and and pomelotrees, squashgourdvines,and by Britsbutnowsitsidyllicallyamidflowers

khel s guardedbyceremonial Angami-Naga village where you sleep in comfortable but where but incomfortable yousleep Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com morungs Via Meru’s House Meru’s Via karu karu (bachelordormitories)

( dahu yanra % stone gateways retain wastwicebesieged fort 0370-22 circles. Houses circles.Houses pendantsthat (per personRs200)

’ forpanoramic

karu 70786; s/d/tr Rs 70786; s/d/trRs gates. Konyak

. NORTHEAST STATES and . of- 619 poles Nahar- , 3km dat babo 2291284) sometimes sometimes % (

facial tattoos . The voyeuristic dat, 7.30am-4pm Mon-Sat). (Ganga Market) 2212590; s/d Rs 250/400, s/d Rs 250/400, 2212590; h %

Sahara ( meeting platforms add 2243262; Apatani tribe lapang , are 300m west around Bank west around 300m , are % ( APST bus station paintings and into holes cut in paintings and into holes cut in Itafort Hotel Helipad Peace with the Nishis in the 1960s meant the 1960s meant with the Nishis in Peace

03788 Photography is an understandably sensitive is an understandably sensitive Photography issue: snapping a lady because of her im- and distasteful posed ‘ugliness’ is pretty had cosmetic some Apatani women have their tattoos. to remove surgery the size of US quarters. the size But many the end to that brutal practice. women in their 50s and older still wear FACIAL TATTOOING TATTOOING FACIAL Historically famous for their beauty, Apa- kidnapped all too often tani women were by warriors of the neighbouring Nishi tribes. deliber- were Apatani girls a ‘defence’, As facial tattoos, received defaced. They ately like graffitied beards scribbled onto living Mona Lisa extraordi- fitted their upper nostrils were nary nose plugs known as From the Helicopter tickets are only sold at only sold are tickets Helicopter main attraction here is meeting older Apatani is meeting older main attraction here women who sport alarming lagun Itanagar’s Zero-Point.That’s 16km east of Flights run daily (except Sunday) to Guwahati (Rs 3000) and weekly to many destinations, Ziro (Rs 1200), including Along (Rs 3300), (Rs 1550) and Tuting (Rs 4400), Daporijo (Rs 2200). Pasighat PRADESH CENTRAL ARUNACHAL Ziro Valley % fields and than valley, Ziro’s rice plateau More cupped attractively are bamboo groves fenced by highland pine-clad hills. Tall and traditional the ut- of villages to the tight-packed interest intriguing terly houses, like houses, like Rs 500/600) with AC Here junction. Tinali and sumos to buses private to Tezpur fers (Rs 350, (Rs 300, 5.30am), Along Pasighat 5.30am 5pm) and Ziro (Rs 300, 5.30am and and 11.30am). Pasighat and (Rs 110, four hours) Tezpur (Rs 160) via (Rs 42, 1½ airport you’ll find the nearest where hours), (Lilabari). further west, buses leave at dawn to Along, at dawn busesfurther west, leave

ruins 2222518;

% is a good is a good ( and some basic and some and a colour- village has a has a village Hotel Arun Subansiri museum museum . Some cheaper guest- . Some cheaper is not an attraction but an attraction is not State Museum (www.arunachaltourism.com) Shangnyu

Mon (35km) has a relatively high a relatively (35km) has 9.30am-5pm Tue-Sat) PRADESH •• Itanagar ARUNACHAL whose dull brick utterly h depicting warriors with giant phal- depicting warriors Tibetan Temple Tibetan Langmeang Langmeang

. The town of of . The town 2212806; Zero Point; s/d Rs 700/900) 2212806; Zero 0360 / pop 38,000 With oversized rooms and endless under- With oversized

Arunachal Tourism % ful little distance of the decent distance of admission Rs 50; utilised foyer space, ( It’s within walking accommodation choice. sumo connections to Central Arunachal. crown a hill top 2km above town. For tourists crown a hill top 2km above Itanagar is mainly useful and for its helicopter tailor-made capital is named for the myste- tailor-made rious % pleasantly since 1972, Arunachal’s green, Built ITANAGAR ITANAGAR offers more information. information. more offers is extremely calm. Sadly permits (see p592 ) re- p592 calm. Sadly permits (see is extremely enough to determain annoying and expensive visitors. foreign most potential drew. Now border passes are heavily guarded by heavily Now border passes are drew. atmosphere the Indian military, but the overall never formally recognised Indian sovereignty sovereignty Indian never formally recognised 1962 and it took their surprise invasion of here funding significant started Delhi really before The Chinese voluntarily with- infrastructure. beautiful Tawang Valley are several splendid are Valley beautiful Tawang China has villages. monastery Tibetan-Buddhist some counts) with bucolic cultures and photo- some counts) with bucolic cultures bamboo-house settlements.genic High in the snow-capped peaks along the Chinesesnow-capped peaks along bor- deep-cut foothill valleys In Arunachal’s der. tribal groups (101 by at least 65 different live forested ridges. Theseridges. rise to some fabulous forested The ‘Land Dawn-lit Mountains’ grips of densely an embrace of in northern Assam Dimapur–Mon buses drive via Assam. via Assam. Dimapur–Mon buses drive PRADESH ARUNACHAL cies). Mon is more accessible from Sivasa- cies). Mon is more and ) than from Kohima, p605 gar (Assam, log-drum. Effectively the only way to reach way to reach the only log-drum. Effectively for agen- p595 these places is on a tour (see totem pole people in loincloths, some still living in com- some still living people in loincloths, munal longhouses. luses. accommodation. However,accommodation. vil- in rural Mon to come across tattooed still likely you’re lages tribe tribal a small does have lonelyplanet.com proportion of traditional Naga houses traditional and a of proportion NORTHEAST STATES little thin. the area’s gentle charms toweara canstart exhausting daysof travel, jeep bywhich time to Pasighat typicallyrequires atleastthree asitis,thejourney fromZiro trails. However, one of thenortheast’smostpopulartourist together, wascloser thiswouldbe everything and thatched Adivillages around arelights dizzyingsuspensionfootbridges Pasighat forested linking hillsandtribalsettlements A peacefullanewindsonand through Ziro toPasighat (Hapoli–Ziro road) an unmarked Jeeps toDaporijo(Rs200,11am)leave from some particularlybeautifulforest sections. and againaround10.30am.Thejourneyhas (Rs144,4½hours) around5.15am khimpur (Rs200,6½hrs)to Itanagar andNorthLa- Hot water bybucket. longwalkfromtown(unlitatnight). a slightly alternative withacreditable restaurant albeit Blue Pine choicesceptable nearthemainmarkets. ( MG Rd,s/d/deluxe Rs170/300/400) and roadtransport. 7kmfurthersouth,hasallthehotels starting agar, Rs1200).Sprawling distinguished than 10kmapart. reach), best known), villagesthentic Apatani are return from theirricefields.Themostau- ing isbestjustbefore duskwhenvillagers bizarre 620 % Sumos departfromHapoli’s mainmarket toun- There’s helicopter service aweekly of the building to keep theratsfromclimbingin). of thebuildingtokeep tected frommiceusing‘mushroom stones’(sizeable disksbetweenthestonestiltsandbase photogenic withluxuriantpalmyra-leafthatchingandstilted granariesthatare ingeniouslypro- Asian sarongs. Housedesignsvarysomewhat.TraditionalAdivillagesare generallythemost form atopknotabove theirforeheads. Womenfavourhand-woven Southeast wraparoundslike with porcupinequillorhornbillfeather. Afew oldmenstillweartheirhairlong,tiedaroundto emonial occasions,villagechiefs hatspiked typicallywearscarletshawlsandabamboo-wicker least distantlyrelated. Donyi-Polo(sunandmoon)worship. Forcer- Mosttraditionallypractise Pradesh considerthemselves very self-consciouslydifferent fromoneanother. Butmostare at Adi (Abor), Nishi,Tajin, andvariousotherTibeto-Burman Miri Hill tribesofCentral Arunachal CENTRAL ARUNACHAL’S TRIBALGROUPS 225398; JNComplex,MGRd;s/dRs400/500) RNCA RDS • CnrlAuahlPaeh ARUNACHAL PRADESH••CentralArunachalPradesh tothefascinatingZiroValley. High- nose plugs Hari ( % , 224812; s/dRs300/450) Bamin . Dutta Ziro town shop (see above). (see People-watch- ( and (atmospheric andeasierto % Highland Hotel Highland 225100) from (Itan- Hijo and Hapoli Hong . Noneare more beside Hotel Valley View Hotel is afriendly (NewZiro), (biggest and

( % Pearl Cafe Along are ac- 225238; Hotel Hotel . If

esting information. strenuous village trailsandisamineof inter- is veil. thebestmarket-area Otherwise option hill topoverlooking abamboo townthrough admission free; deceased. They’redeceased. strungwithcaneandbam- boo equivalents nearAlong,butoccasionalbam- villages aroundDaporijolackthegraceof Adi 60). Nishi andHillMiribamboo-and-thatch papuk local delicaciesinthecheerless restaurant (try 200/300) ( Ziro toAlong.Thefour-room ing, attractively ‘Dapo’iftransitingfrom set You have insprawl- littlechoice buttosleep % DAPORIJO across the footbridge andup. Returningyou (1km beyond Adi village is An accessibleyet relatively unspoiltthatched AROUND ALONG southwest of thehelipad. Holiday Cottage ( English-speaking localfarmer Adi-relatedselling books.Agreat guideis informative little 7pm) Café Internet This friendly,nondescript market townhasan % ALONG () with anumbrella. boo-thread loopsandoften topped,surreally, % % Hotel Santanu Hotel The bestaccommodationchoice is 03783 /pop20,000elev302m 03792 /pop14,000elev699m 223250; dRs300) 224653; fromRs1500perday) opposite theAPST andan busstation totem poles totem –chicken inbanana-flower broth,Rs , with faulty plumbing but serving good , withfaultyplumbingbutserving (Abu-Tani Centre, NehruChowk; h ( Paia % Podbi 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) commemorate therecently ( % isscenicallyplonked ona 222463; Hospital Hill; s/dRs250/400) 222463; HospitalHill; . Drive 8kmwestof Along District District Museum 223531; New Market; s/dfromRs 223531; NewMarket; ),

then walk 15minutes , whoknowsmany lonelyplanet.com , 300meast Circuit House

Taje Komut ( % h 222214; 6.30am- Hotel Hotel

NORTHEAST STATES

. New 621 gompa Old Dirang Old . Founded prayer house Dirang Resort Tawang Gompa Gompa Tawang . Himalayan Holiday 03780, elevation dawn-dusk) is a friendly, family % ( (admission/camera/video Rs h 242615; d standard/deluxe/ste 242615; d standard/deluxe/ste % from a huddle of photo- from a huddle of Dirang ( 03782, elevation 2682m). 03782, elevation2682m).

museum % , 1km south overlooking New , 1km south overlooking ( 7am-sunset on request) h minicitadel , 5.5km further north. New Dirang is, , 5.5km further north. . However , 18km before Tawang, is an especially Tawang, , 18km before Bomdila 222243; admission free; 222243; admission free; 242352; IB Rd; d Rs 650-700) 222017; www.himalayan-holidays.com; ABC Bldg, Main222017; www.himalayan-holidays.com; 03794 / elev 3048m Hotel Pemaling % % % its fortified walls, narrow alleys divide three its fortified walls, narrow alleys divide three monks’ dwellings lead- rows of whitewashed ing up to the hulking, colourful between 1992 and 1997). restored (heavily is a small Across the gompa’s central square but interesting % a valley just doesn’t Valley Calling the Tawang by Ringed scale. do justice to its incredible immense mountains, it’s a vast sweep of with dotted sloping plateaux field-patched prayer wheelsBuddhist monasteries, and ar- hidden Semi- villages. Tibetan-style chetypal Rhou By far the valley’s big- example. picturesque tourist drawcard is magical gest ( in 1681, this self-contained medieval citadel Bud- the world’s second-largest is reputedly complex. The 3km approach dhist monastery several wonderful town offers from Tawang framing a spiky points, the gompa vantage snow-speckled peaks. Within backdrop of not unpleasant and there’s a small huddle a small huddle not unpleasant and there’s and sumo counters eateries hotels, cheap of around the central crossroads. ( comfortablebalcony. Dirang’s most option is Rs 700/1500/2000) 4176m Selasometimes snow-bound Pass, the endlessly zigzagging which road across continues eventually to Tawang. Tawang Valley est then through once-lovely river dales (now dales river throughest then once-lovely mountain- military by camps) before marred top hotels sumo connections, many Bomdila has tour-agency and the reliable ( Market) appealing. Fabulous 1621m) is more Tibetan-Monpa picture-perfect is an almost divides its squat, The main road stone village. rocky rises which houses above stream-side genic topped with a timeless a steep ridge All Dirang’s commercial servicesAll Dirang’s commercial in are Dirang valley town, but it’s by contrast, an ordinary Dirang. Suites have great views towards the views great have Dirang. Suites 20/20/100; hotel in an old-style hill house with walls like in an old-style hill househotel with walls like and a wooden wraparound cake Battenburg or Hotel 2222088; % ( . Both Kabu . Both Kabu (17km) and (17km) and (1–5 September), Lokpeng 2104075; taringtabi@redif- 2224464; s/d Rs 300/450) 2223333; tw/d Rs 600/1000, d % ( % % ( ( , 3km northeast, serve Na- Pasighat Aerodrome Pasighat suspension bridge , notably village set village fields in wide rice •• Western Arunachal Pradesh PRADESH ARUNACHAL sells jeep-boat-jeep combina- sells jeep-boat-jeep , which has hot showers and an has hot showers , which using a picturesque but very wob- very but a picturesque using Sille Solung Festival

2224559) Pasighat publishes Adi books and is making publishes Adi books and Kabu Hotel Oman Hotel Aane

(88km, 2km before town). town). Pangin before (88km, 2km Adi Banekebang %

( 0368 8am-noon Mon-Sat) The inconveniently located APST bus sta- bus APST located The inconveniently

Bhalukpong to Tawang Bhalukpong to Tawang ). p602 ( in Bhalukpong checked are Permits for- The road winds up through lush mature Nameri’s wonderful Eco-Camp ( p602 ), too. ), too. p602 Nameri’s wonderful Eco-Camp ( for intense cold in winter. Be prepared ing the journey each way at Dirang or less way at ing the journey each Consider stopping at Bomdila. interesting attractions. Ideally budget at least five days’ days’ at least five attractions. Ideally budget break- from Guwahati (or Tezpur) return a mountain-hopping journey to Tawang’s ‘lit- a mountain-hopping journey to Tawang’s the northeast’s greatest is one of tle Tibet’ WESTERN ARUNACHAL PRADESH WESTERN ARUNACHAL PRADESH Culturally magical and scenically spectacular, Pasighat (7km off the NH52). En route notice (7km off route the NH52). En Pasighat photogenic tion tickets (Rs 250, eight hours) to Dibrugarh to Dibrugarh (Rs 250, eight hours) tion tickets This departs from Oriam- via the DKO ferry. a lonely sandbankghat 30km from (Assam), to Along (Rs 200, 5½ hours) at 6am and to Along (Rs 200, 5½ hours) Siang at 7am daily (except Wednesday) and Itanagar (Rs 170) at 6am (except Monday). Sumos run tion has services 100, 5½ hours) to Along (Rs Guwahati via Naharlagun on Tuesday and Tuting via Along on Friday. h harlagun (Itanagar) (Dibru- via Mohanbari garh) on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING THERE & AWAY from Helicopters while ested foothills, Pasighat holds the Minyong- foothills, Pasighat ested Adi tribe’s % luxuriantly for- a curtain of Nestled before Koreng Pasighat are many other picturesque Adi villages en Adi villages picturesque many other are to route bly cane-trussed road. There the Along–Tato on and Podbi are can stroll 3km along the riverbank then cross then the riverbank 3km along can stroll back to lonelyplanet.com 20km from Pasighat (NH52, Km 523). 20km from Pasighat a movie about Adi history. Sleep about at friendly, a movie central appealing rooftop terrace. terrace. appealing rooftop with AC Rs 1500) fmail.com) plusher NORTHEAST STATES (Rs 50; behind it. and Bomdila (162km). dawn from Tawang (343km), Dirang(218km) ternate days.PublicsumostoTezpur departat hours) viaDirang (Rs130,6½hours) onal- daily andTawang–Bomdila (Rs170, eight runTezpur–Dirangbuses (Rs205,7½hours) Monday andWednesdaytoGuwahati. APST Tawang, helicopters (Rs3000, twohours) fly from From Lumla,42kmtowardsZemithang Getting There&Away Tawang’s mostpolished choice. 400m southeastof themarket, iscentral 880/1650) bathroomRs600) bathroom Rs350/400,dwithprivate try the bathrooms withgeyser. IfGourichan isfull, plush astheexterior suggests, theyallhave market area roomsaren’t andalthough as Rs 350,d600-900) pseudo-Tibetan 150m above themaindrag.Outwardlysmart, hot showers andrenovations underway.It’s butvery tatty good-valueslightly optionwith hotels. bags (Rs100). handicrafts, includingembroidered shoulder ian spiders. Just50meastis gurden many of whomsporttraditional woollyblack turned byapple-cheeked Monpapilgrims, est tothecentralold-market area. are These Nonetheless, colourful ismore setting beautifulthanthetownitself. whose port hubandaccommodationbase Tawang town, 3kmfromthegompa,isatrans- % Tawang Town for manyfascinatinghikes. faultless English andcanmake suggestions Owner,Prem,six-room homestay. speaks Rs 450/750,tr850-1000) Dirang road, minutes’ walk fromUrgelling onthemain downhill fromTawang Gompa. About 10 onfoot,directlytown butit’smuch closer Byroad,that’s6kmfromTawangDalai Lama. Gompa Urgelling from Tawang, includingancientifmodest anigompas 622 Tawang around20small hasroughly Many otherenchanting 03794 /elev3048m h IOA • Hsoy MIZORAM ••History skullcapsthatlooklike giantRastafar- Hotel Dungphoo Hotel , which youenter fromabacklane Tourist Lodge Tourist 8.30am-8pm) (nunneries)offer great dayhikes Tawang Inn Tenzing Guesthouse , thebirthplaceof thesixth dominates theupperold- Hotel Gourichan Gourichan Hotel . isawonderfullyinviting, PL Traders ( % ( % ( prayer wheels % 222359; twRs200) 223765; d/trwithshared 224096; d/stefromRs Monyul CyberCafé

( % gompas ( % ( % 222987) addinter- 222893; s/d 224151; s and sells is a

Avril preferably Lavigne, allcombined(yes, Musical tastes favour gospel,Megadeath and beaus atrockconcertsonthecentralfield. upwiththeir meeting unchaperoned posses smoke openly,wearjeansandhangoutin prettywomen seem liberated; inAizawlgirls surprisingly common. butfriendly,wobblingdry state drunksare ginger andonion.OnpaperMizoramisa is addedusing boiled fattysmoked-pork alongside. Flavour rice, boiledleaves, boiledvegetables and (afternoon meal,4pmto6pm).Bothfeature (morning meal,9amto10am)and itionally have twomainmeals, Forget breakfast-lunch-dinner, Mizostrad- onSunday. tight closes virtually everything areMost businesses longshut by6pm,and strangers forbotheringtovisittheirstate. ifyou’re be surprised warmlythanked bytotal are surreally butuninvasively friendly.Don’t stylefeatures.the localThai-Chinese People very fewtian. You’llsee Indianfacesamongst boo. Mizoramistidyandalmostentirely Chris- north-south furrowswithagreen fuzzof bam- byaforgetfulploughed godwholeftthedeep fromthesky, Seen tohaveMizoram seems been MIZORAM the infamous ‘grouping’policy. Theentire rural India’s appallingly heavy-handed response was Aizawl. capturing Mizoram’s then-tinycapital raid,briefly they launched astunningsurprise National Front (MNF)insurgents. In1966 Famine Front(MFF)later spawnedtheMizo Mizos feeling entirely abandoned. TheMizo The Indiangovernment’s ineptresponse left famine. last happenedin1959causingaserious human crops.This edible,notably thing else Suddenly hungry,theratsswarmonto any- after thethirdyearbamboostopsfruiting. multiply rapidlytoenjoythefree feast. But fruitareto humans,these adored byrats,which inedible millions of fruit.Although egg-shaped boo forests producing flowerforthree seasons, About 50years every Mizoram’sendlessbam- History are determinedly democratic. despite theirleathers andgrowlingEnfields Thunders, Mizoram’slocalbiker gangwho they try!).Similarlycuriousare theAizawl Mizo culture hasnocaste distinctionsand Mizoram runsentirely toitsownrhythm. rawt, a salsa of dicedchillies, asalsa lonelyplanet.com zingchaw tlaichaw

NORTHEAST STATES

623 10am- V is for h

has bell The ever- (Zodin Sq)

Right at Sumkuma site is 8km from is 8km from site 2340936; Zarkawt; admission has interesting exhib- has interesting %

2346156; hoteltropicana@rediff- 2346418; s Rs 170-300, d Rs 260- ( (Durtlang; admission Rs 5; % % 2323548; omegatravel89@yahoo2323548; ( ( 2346418; s Rs 480-540, d Rs 540-650)

2352067; Mizoram d Rs Science Centre; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri,9am-5pm 9am-3pm Sat) Can % % ( ( % ( h

2334082, 2243697; Khatla2334082, 2243697; Maubawk; 9436142938) speaks good English. 9436142938) speaks Salvation Army ‘Temple’ Army Salvation 11am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) % High above Zemabawk, High some 11km above KV Paradise , whose modernist bell-tower spire is , whose modernist bell-tower spire ( % h 10am-4pm Mon-Fri). registration. Compulsory police Chawlhna Hotel Hotel Tropicana The Hotel Chief The h Almost next door to the Chawlhna, the friendly with polished Chief is somewhat more Hotel geysers. and almost-hot neat tiled floors ZEMABAWK Tourist Home 350-500) Sleeping ZARKAWT lower concentration of a convenient There’s around Zarkawt’s hotels midrange Sumkuma Point. bathroom Rs 100/200) 600, s/d with shared rooms bag of popular Chawlhna has a mixed from a side alley 200m south and is entered Sumkuma Point. of mail.com; s Rs 170-250, d Rs 450-550) better the Tropicana’s Point roundabout, curtains, rather cosy with fitted doubles are and balcony. ethnic furniture 9pm Mon-Sat, noon- 9pm Sun) 9pm Mon-Sat, noon- lane. narrow mud via an improbably who died in a 2001 motor accident. Varte K is for her husband Khawlhring who has and energy savings his entire since lavished complex mausoleum a three-storey creating to her memory. The marble fountain-patio has wonderful panoramic views. Inside an odd wardrobe and shoe collection displays Varte’s Mahal, collection. Locals call it Mizoram’s Taj principal not a Mughal but being a school isn’t emperor, Khawlhring’s ‘Christian Taj’ Agra-sized. quite Omega TravelsOmega SP-CID Sights Mizoram State Museum Rs 5; It’s up a steep lane from its on Mizo culture. most distinctive Sumkuma Point past Aizawl’s church ‘windows’. pierced by arched .co.in; Zodin Sq; Zodin .co.in; arrange tourist people). permits (Rs 400 for up to eight Zova ( Zarkawt, road the Aizawl–Silchar 1km off chimes that are endearingly complex. that are chimes 10am- h hamlets hamlets MIZORAM •• Aizawl jhumming 2333475; http://mizo % ( (Zarkawt; per hr Rs 30; (http://newslink.in/) Mizoram’s English-

0389 / pop 275,000 0389 / pop 275,000

Addresses refer to areas and junctions to areas refer Addresses Newslink Dazzlechips Cyber Cafe Directorate of Tourism Information Information This section although is walkable, appalling suffocatingrush-hour traffic fumes. creates zaar (shops), Zarkawtzaar (shops), and long-distance (hotels sumos) and Chandmari (east Mizoram sumos). ing, but the central ridge road is reasonably flat road is reasonably ing, but the central ridge linking Zodin Sq (old bus station), Upper - (‘points’ or ‘squares’). The unnamed spaghetti(‘points’ or ‘squares’). confus- linking stairways roads and steep are of San Francisco seems as flat as Florida. the world’s steepest capital.the world’s steepest Homes at road stilts three with rear level might be held there In comparison, times higher roofs. than their Balanced precariously on a razor-sharp ridge, ridge, on a razor-sharp Balanced precariously Aizawl (pronounced eye-zole) could well be AIZAWL AIZAWL % Officially limit you to Aizawl district permits you nod from SP-CID but with an unofficial further afield. might be OK travelling but once in Aizawl collect the original and (see right) for registration. it to SP-CID take Agencies, notably Omega Travels ( below ), can below ( notably Omega Travels Agencies, paperwork and fax you a permit copy. arrange you through arrival formalities, This gets Information Information PERMITS got attached to India. But everyone’s relieved But everyone’s relieved got attached to India. end up within Myan- that at least they didn’t started 2006 the bamboo forests In late mar. flowering again. Let’s hope that everyone will for the inevitable 2009. in prepared be better remain bemused as to how their ‘country’ everremain a majority in the democratically elected state elected in the democratically a majority being and Mizoram is proud of government Mizos Many in the northeast. state the safest support for the rebels. However, after two dec- However, after rebels. support for the a led to fighting, 1986 cease-fire the ades of settlement.lasting peace holds Today the MNF homes in Mizoram). Obviously such tactics Obviously such homes in Mizoram). of wave a huge creating massively, backfired were then destroyed to deprive insurgents of of insurgents to deprive then destroyed were ‘traditional’ (so don’t look for ancient resources population was corralled into virtual concen- into was corralled population old camps. The tration Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book language newspaper. 10pm) Slow connection, beyond David’s Kitchen. 200m tourism.nic.in/; Chandmari) NORTHEAST STATES see For details, below . h returning around2pmoncetheAirDeccan Chatlang–Zasanga Point,theneitherclimbto Chatlang–Zasanga Bazaar–Zarkawt–Chandmari-Lower Frequent runZodinSq–Upper city buses Getting Around RKV kuma Point.ForSaitualthemostcentralare veniently clusteredSum- aroundZarkawt’s minimum). (Rs15perkm,Rs2000day sumo jeep Malsoma hasarrived.flight Obligingminibus-organiser Rs 100) Rs 500.A9am airportis35km west.TaxisLengpui charge little 30 minutes) Efficient thriceweekly. one hour)mostdaysandImphal(US$61, Guwahati(US$91, daily. Indianalsoserves .airdeccan.com) Indian Airlines Getting There&Away only hopeforsustenance. Saitual. village,ily restaurants halfwayto inSelling zaar butisespeciallygoodatroadsidefam- Hotel Chief. Kennyincessant Gmusic.It’s200msouthof décor are andpleasant undermined by staff friendly food,mocktails, andcontinental nese David’s Kitchen Eating viewpoint isjusta10-minute strollaway. isidyllicandAizawl’sbest The hilltopsetting great newroomsandolder,mustiercottages. thepeacefulTouristHomehas from Zarkawt, 624 Counters sumosare forlong-distance con- Mizo foodcanbefoundaroundtheba- On Sundayshotels are pretty much your SERVICES FROM AIZAWLSERVICES 10am-10pm Mon-Sat) hlog 40 5 4pm 15 430 Silchar 230 5½ 6.30am, Shillong 4pm Saitual 70 3 530 Guwahati 1pm, 14-18 (Rs) 10am, Departure Duration Destination Cost 3pm (hrs) 1pm

( % MANIPUR runs from Hotel Ritz (Upper Bazaar) runsfromHotel Ritz(UpperBazaar) 2305452)

( % fly Aizawl–Kolkata (onehour) flyAizawl–Kolkata 9436374454)

( ( % % airport minibusservice airport andNazareth inChandmari. 344733) 2341263; Zarkawt; mainsRs65-210; 2341263; Zarkawt; David’s fineIndian,Chi- alsorents anew and Air Deccan ( %

2573384;

(www to rent (Rs10),butnocafé. .net) are famed for traditionaldances,spicymulti- Meitei inlocalschools. Manipuris scriptused Vaishnavite Meitei, whoare battlingtohave main groupingisthepredominantly neo- Chin and many othertribalpeoplesbutthe This ‘Jewelled ishometoNaga,Kuki, Land’ MANIPUR ated andafew situ- poinsettia mustyifpleasantly is ringed patches of bylushmountains, is mildlymemorable. This localbeautyspot a very bumpy10kmsidetripto and findsomebiscuitsfordinner. However, views. There’s thelocals littletodobutmeet north of Saitualmarket, offers extensive ( Saitual accessible taste of small-townMizolife, visit the mostattractive district.Butforamore you headeast. Mizoram’s pretty, green hillsget as higher RURAL MIZORAM reasonably priced. Maruti–Suzuki are taxis ubiquitousand (6km)toZemabawk. Chunga BusStation roundpastthenew Durtlang orcurlright flights intoManipur.flights (6E; home totherare Sangai‘dancing deer’. ‘islands’ of thickmatted isreportedly weeds, memorial. of Imphal,hasWWIIgraves andaJapanese domes. Mandir Govindajee (http://imphalwest.nic.in/sambanlei.html) the is supposedly manipur.nic.in/tourism.htm) not beassured. via thecapital, to get apermitare required to flyinandout state. Foreigners whomiraculouslymanage ing itbyfarthenortheast’smostdangerous fickers anddozens of guerrillaarmiesmak- hills provide cover forrare birds,drugtraf- claim tohave invented. Manipur’s forested dish thalisandthesportof polo thatthey % Air Deccan Lokpaching battlefield Imphal hasa % , 2562395; dRs150) cottages Indian Airlines . 9910383838; http://book.goindigo.in) 9910383838; http://book.goindigo.in)

An incredibly good-value

(d Rs300) (DN; Champhai Imphal tourist office tourist % hastworathersuggestive inahill-topgarden,700m (IC; world’s tallesttopiarybush . There are paddleboats 1800 4257008;www.airdeccan , . Even there safety can State Museum State % (RedHill),16kmsouth ,

iswidelyconsidered known forfloating 2220999)

( lonelyplanet.com % 224603; http:// . The and Tourist Lodge Tourist Tamdil Lake andwhat all offer IndiGo Shri Shri

NORTHEAST STATES 625 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely ©

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