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Arunachal Pradesh Offers an Especially Phenomenal Patchwork of an Especially Phenomenal Pradesh Offers Arunachal India

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Arunachal Pradesh Offers an Especially Phenomenal Patchwork of an Especially Phenomenal Pradesh Offers Arunachal India © Lonely Planet Publications 591 Northeast States India’s 1947 partition left the northeastern states dangling like a crooked cartographic handle, way out on the edge of the national map and consciousness. Yet the great, flat Brahmapu- tra valley was traditionally a Vedic heartland and backdrop to several Krishna tales. And NORTHEAST STATES Assam’s beautiful tea plantations remain India’s most productive. In contrast, most of the mountainous surrounding states are home to a fascinatingly fragmented jigsaw of ‘tribal’ peoples. Cultures and facial features there have more in common with Burma and Tibet than with mainstream India. Arunachal Pradesh offers an especially phenomenal patchwork of hill tribes amid seemingly endless mountain ranges. These are mostly forested but crest in a series of gorgeous Himalayan ridges dotted with colourful Tibetan-Buddhist monasteries, including India’s largest at wonderful Tawang. In recent decades many ethno-linguistic groups have jostled – often violently – to assert themselves in the face of immigration, governmental neglect and heavy-handed defence policy. Along with the infuriating permits (not required for Assam, Meghalaya or Tripura), and the lack of any truly iconic ‘must-see’ attraction, it’s the somewhat exaggerated safety worries that deter most travellers from visiting the northeast. That means you’ll meet very few foreigners in the region’s magnificent national parks. And you’ll get vast tracts of fabu- lous rice, tea and mountain scenery all pretty much to yourself. Quite a few insurgency campaigns do rumble on, but generally the people here are among the friendliest in the whole subcontinent. Although fabled as head-hunting warriors, most citizens of tribal states, like Mizoram and Nagaland, seem more interested these days in perfecting their English and penning rap songs about the love of Jesus. HIGHLIGHTS Scramble through Tolkienesque root bridges in the magnificent canyon land below Cher- rapunjee ( p611 ) Along Feast on scrumptious Assamese food at Wild Ziro Dibrugarh Tawang Grass Resort before creeping up on a rhino Valley in Kaziranga National Park ( p602 ) Jorhat Kaziranga Explore the awesome Tawang Valley ( p621 ), National Park Arunachal’s ‘little Tibet’ Visit picture-perfect thatched Adi villages Cherrapunjee around Along ( p620 ) and meet the last of the bizarrely adorned Apatani women at Ziro ( p619 ) Unwind in calm semi-luxury at a colonial mansion on one of Assam’s delightful tea plantations around Jorhat ( p604 ) or Dibru- garh ( p606 ) 592 NORTHEAST STATES •• Information lonelyplanet.com 0 100 km NORTHEAST STATES 0 60 miles The external boundaries of India on this map have not been authenticated and may not be correct. C H I N A T I B E T Tuting A R U N A C H A L Anini P R A D E S H Tato Yingkiong C H I N A Pareng Dambuk Roing T I B E T Boleng Along Mebo Nacho Bame Tezu Pasighat Sadiya Dumporijo Namdapha Daporijo Basar Namsai NP Oriamghat Koloriang Jonai Miao Raga Tinsukia Ledo Dhemaji Digboi Ziro Pangsaw Zemithang Jang Dibrugarh Margherita Pass Tawang Se La North (4176m) Lakhimpur 37 Changlang Bharali RiverSeppa Majuli Longding Khonsa B H U T A N Dirang Bomdila Itanagar Bandawera Laju Nameri Sivasagar Pongchau THIMPU Bhalukpong NP Gohpur Kaziranga Jorhat Bansbari Balipara Mon WEST NP Numaligarh M Y A N M A R Darang Tezpur BENGAL Orang Golaghat Koklabari Kohora (B U R M A) Manas NP NP Kaziranga Mokokchung A S S A M Furkating Bongaigaon Barpeta Mangaldai Furkating Tuensang Road Rangia Nagaon Wokha Kokrajhar NORTHEAST STATES Barpeta Hajo 36 N A G A L A N D Jogigopa Tuphema ὈSualkuchi Guwahati Diphu Dimapur 31 Goalpara aputra 37 Umiam Kohima Dhubri Lake Lumding River Paikan Khonoma BrahmM E G H A L A Y A Barapani Nartiang Shillong Garo Jowai 39 Hills Smit Haflong M A N I P U R Tura Siju Cherrapunjee DawkiJaintia Baghmara Hills Tamabil Silchar River Imphal Dalu Sylhet Barak B A N G L A D E S H 40 Loktak Kakching Lake Moreh Jumuna Kolasib Keibul Lamjao Unakoti NP Kailasahar River Khowai Ajampura Manu T R I P U R A Saitual DHAKA Agartala Aizawl River Akhaura Champhai Ganges Udaipur M I Z O R A M Sonamura River Meghna Lunglei Sabrum Chittagong Bay of Bengal Information Arunachal Pradesh for smaller groups if PERMITS you pay the full four-person fee (US$200), Permits are essential for Nagaland, Arunachal through travel agencies only Pradesh, Mizoram and Manipur. Entry without one is a serious matter. Indian citizens need an Once you arrive, authorities will be unim- inner line permit, issued with little fuss at each pressed if some people listed on your permit relevant state’s office in Guwahati (addresses, are ‘missing’, especially in Nagaland where the p597 ), Kolkata ( p491 ) or elsewhere. The rest of group must also stick together for crossing dis- this section applies to foreigners who’ll require trict boundaries. However, in Mizoram things a Restricted Area Permit (RAP). seem much more flexible, so should the other three people on your four-person Mizoram Minimum Group Size permit become inexplicably incapacitated, Permit applications generally need a four- you’ll probably be allowed to continue alone. person minimum group. Exceptions include the following: Validity & Registration Nagaland for a legally married couple Permits are normally valid for 10 days from with marriage certificate an exact, specified starting date. You might lonelyplanet.com NORTHEAST STATES •• Information 593 FAST FACTS Arunachal Pradesh Mizoram Population: 1.1 million Population: 895,000 Area: 83,743 sq km Area: 21,081 sq km Main languages: dozens Main languages: Mizo, English Assam Nagaland NORTHEAST STATES Population: 26.6 million Population: 2 million Area: 78,438 sq km Area: 16,579 sq km Main languages: Assamese, Bengali, Bodo Main languages: Nagamese, various Naga languages, Hindi, Manipur English Population: 2.4 million Tripura Area: 22,327 sq km Population: 3.2 million Main languages: Manipuri (Meitei), Assamese, Bengali Area: 10,486 sq km Main languages: Bengali, Meghalaya Kokborok Population: 2.3 million Area: 22,429 sq km Main languages: Khasi, Garo, Assamese, Bengali When to Go Tourist season is October to April. However, most national parks only open from November and you’ll see many more of the big animals if you wait till February. be able to extend your permit, but only in Where to Apply state capitals at the Secretariat, Home De- Applications through the Ministry of Home partment. In Arunachal, extending permits Affairs (Map pp132–3 ) in Delhi can take will cost another US$200 for up to four months and end in frustration. people. Be aware that permits allow you to If it works, the best option will be the new visit specified districts only; you’ll need to system operated at Kolkata’s Foreigners’ Re- plan carefully, as changing routes might be gional Registration Office (FRRO; see p491 ). problematic. Otherwise the most reliable way to get per- Be sure to make multiple photocopies mits is by booking a tailor-made tour through of your permit to show at checkpoints and a reputable agency: police registration. Registration is compul- sory both on arrival and on each night that Agency Based in Best for you stay in a new location. If travelling on a tour, your guide will do this for you. Trav- Himalayan Bomdila all, notably elling without a guide (or ‘guardian’) can Arunachal confuse authorities in Nagaland and Aru- Jungle Travels Guwahati all nachal and might result in you being refused Omega Aizawl Mizoram entry, though on-the-ground realities vary Purvi Discovery Dibrugarh Arunachal, Nagaland widely between individual checkposts and Rhino Guwahati all officers. Tribal Discovery Kohima Nagaland 594 ASSAM lonelyplanet.com Start the application process at least six weeks ahead. ASSAM Costs Fascinating Assam (Asom, Axom) straddles Costs per person: the fertile Brahmaputra valley, making it the most accessible core of India’s northeast. The State Through FRRO Through archetypal Assamese landscape offers mes- Kolkata agency merising autumnal vistas over seemingly end- less gold-green rice fields patched with palm Arunachal free (not Tawang) US$50 + and bamboo groves and distantly hemmed Pradesh commission with hazy blue mountain horizons. In be- Manipur free Rs 1500 + tween are equally endless, equally gorgeous commission manicured tea estates. Unlike Sri Lanka’s or Mizoram not possible commission Darjeeling’s, Assamese tea estates are virtually (Rs 400) flat and take their particular scenic splendour Nagaland free but limited commission only from the dappled shade of interplanted acacia trees that shield sensitive tea leaves from the Climate blazing sun. NORTHEAST STATES Until October you’ll generally need decent Assamese people might look ‘Indian’, but air-con (AC) anywhere that is not set well up Assamese culture is proudly distinct: the neo- a mountain. But by December even sweaty Vaishnavite faith is virtually a ‘national’ reli- Guwahati can feel chilly at night. Warm gion (see the boxed text, p605 ) and the gamosa clothes will be useful at any time in Tawang (a red-and-white embroidered scarf worn for where temperatures can dip to -15°C in prayer by most Assamese men) is a subtle January. mark of ‘national’ costume. Despite similari- FESTIVALS IN THE NORTHEAST Tribal dances linked to the crop cycle take place year-round. Brahmaputra Beach Festival (Jan; Guwahati, opposite ) Elephant races and adventure sports. Kaziranga Elephant Festival (late Jan; Kaziranga, p602 ) New tourist tempter. Torgya (Jan) and Losar (Feb/Mar) Tibetan-Buddhist chaam (masked dances) held most spectacularly at Tawang Gompa ( p621 ). Chapchar Kut (Mar; Mizoram statewide; http://mizotourism.nic.in/festival.htm) Annual forest clearance dances. Ashokastami Mela (Mar/Apr; Unakoti, p616 ) Shivaite pilgrims bathe amid Tripura’s greatest ancient sculptures. Rongali Bihu (late Apr; Assam statewide) Assamese new year.
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