APPAREL’S DAY IN COURT/12 SEARS GETS GRAND/2 Women’s WearWWD Daily • The Retailers’ Daily NewspaperFRIDAY • September 19, 2003 Vol. 186, No. 60 $2.00 Beauty Get Dressed — There’s nothing quite like a terrific dress. And knows just how to deliver one, which he proved in spades in the flirty, ultra-charming spring collection he showed on Thursday. The frocks ranged from the simplest slips to a soft jade fairy dress with sheer chevrons perfect for a young starlet. And Posen did great-looking day pieces, too — including some smashing blouson jackets and ruched skirts. Here, one of his slinky little numbers with a fluid skirt. For more on the season, see pages 6 to 11.

Models As Guinea Pigs: Beauty Uses Backstage To Test New Products By Julie Naughton and Matthew W. Evans NEW YORK — Beauty companies have long realized the sizzle factor of being involved with runway shows. These days, they’re also using them for an

Margin Squeeze at Mass Beauty/15 A Three-Way Race in Color/16 even more pragmatic reason — to give a real-life road test to products in development. has become beauty’s backstage laboratory. “The backstage environment offers a critical audience — the models and artists there have seen just about See Beauty’s, Page11 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 WWDFRIDAY A Grand Opening for Sears Beauty GENERAL By David Moin FASHION: , Zac Posen, Chado Ralph Rucci and Daryl K were the collections everyone was talking about as New York shows continued. NEW YORK — Sears, Roebuck is 6 putting its future into a bigger box. Beauty companies are using the runways to give a real-life road test to On Saturday, the first Sears 1 products in development, making the runways a backstage laboratory. Grand unit opens in the Jordan Sears, Roebuck is putting its future into a bigger box, opening the first Sears Landing Shopping Destination, Grand unit in a bid to battle the dominance of Target, Wal-Mart and Kohl’s. approximately 15 miles from Salt 2 Lake City. It’s an initial bid to bat- SUZY: Opening night at the Metropolitan Opera was a gala to write home tle back against the dominance of 4 about…A buffet from Bush…Hollywood’s having a baby boom. Target, Wal-Mart, Best Buy and Classified Advertisements ...... 26-27 Kohl’s and to establish a long- term growth strategy taking Sears To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is to off-the-mall locations with [email protected], using the individual's name. more categories and space. SUBSCRIPTION RATES U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. “Without question, the Sears All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Grand strategy is truly a function Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 of there being very little growth Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. left in malls,” said Jerry Post, WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and September and three in August, by Fairchild senior vice president and general Publications, Inc. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., manager of the retailer’s off-mall Sears Grand opens near Salt Lake City on Saturday. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. growth strategies, in an interview No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be Thursday. “There are not a lot of line stores, which have 185,000 where regional malls don’t exist. expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 new malls being built.” square feet of gross space, includ- The Jordan Landing Sears Grand Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 While Post said that “the heart ing between 120,000 to 130,000 is at 7453 South Plaza Center GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 and soul” of the business at Sears square feet for selling, usually Drive in West Jordan. Competing Printed in the U.S.A. All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of Grand is identical to traditional spread over two levels. Sears has stores in the area include Barnes WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. Sears stores, he also cited a host about 500 full-line stores of that & Noble, Old Navy, Lowe’s and a For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com. of distinctive elements, among size and about 370 more depart- Wal-Mart Supercenter. them, the much larger format. ment stores that are smaller. Sears Grand is shooting for the The first Sears Grand has 208,000 Sears Grand is looking to tar- same productivity as the tradi- square feet of gross space with get middle-income families earn- tional Sears department stores, 155,000 square feet for selling, all ing between $30,000 to $80,000 in according to Post. Last year, Sears In Brief on one floor. That compares with communities with 100,000 to posted $303 in sales per selling the Sears large, traditional full- 150,000 households and markets Continued on page 13 ● BUY BUOYS PENNEY: J.C. Penney Co. Inc.’s shares gained $1.14, or 5.3 percent, to close at $22.80 in Thursday trading on the New York Stock Exchange following an upgrade to “buy, high risk” from “hold, high risk” by Smith Barney analyst Deborah Weinswig. In a research note, Weinswig cited three factors in her new assignment, including management’s attention to the troubled Eckerd drug- Isabel Shuts Down the Capital store unit, better performance from the department stores and cat- alog division and Penney’s “compelling valuation” compared to its By Joanna Ramey ever. The 700-mile wide storm government is closed,” said Paige peers. “We believe that management is focused on improving pro- lumbering across the mid- Peak, director of marketing at ductivity at Eckerd stores and hence increasing the value of WASHINGTON — The approach Atlantic states wasn’t enough to Short Pump, with , Eckerd for a potential suitor or spin-off,” wrote Weinswig. Of the of Hurricane Isabel forced the cancel the ribbon-cutting cere- Lord & Taylor, Hecht’s and an- department store and catalog segments, Weinswig said “sales mo- nation’s capital Thursday to mony at the Taubman Co.’s lat- other Dillard’s as anchors. “I mentum from improved merchandising and advertising, combined hunker down, as Georgetown re- est mall, 690,000 square-foot would imagine that will change. with technology initiatives is leading to improved earnings.” The tailers worried about wet base- open-air Stony Point Fashion The winds aren’t expected to 52-week high for Penney shares is $25.55, reached on Dec. 2. ments, public transportation Park, located outside of Rich- pick up here until 2 p.m.” was halted and the area’s mond, Va. However, the 10 a.m. Malls throughout the mid- ● ATHLETIC PURSUITS: Laila Ali has landed a marketing partner- 336,077 federal workers were or- ceremonies were brief and the Atlantic also reported staying ship with Adidas through 2005, and will serve as a spokeswoman dered to stay home. mall, with Saks, Galyan’s and open well into the afternoon, in- for women’s training, among other things. Meanwhile, rapper 50 The storm by morning had Dillard’s as anchors, closed at 2 cluding the Washington area’s Cent is talking up Reebok during his European tour, which ends come ashore in North Carolina, p.m., with the expectation of re- largest shopping center, five-an- Oct. 6. Through an international marketing initiative, he is fronting and while diminishing slightly, opening at 10 a.m. today, accord- chor Tyson’s Corner Center. the new “G-Unit Collection by Rbk.” Reebok’s Rbk collection is Isabel’s gusts were topping 100 ing to a mall receptionist. Preparing for foul weather street-inspired and designed for young women and men. At the end miles per hour. By early after- On the other side of Rich- has become a way of life in the of each show, 50 Cent throws his own pair of G-6s into the crowd. noon, hours before the hurri- mond, at Short Pump Town Cen- historic Georgetown shopping cane’s eye would arrive, 600,000 ter, officials seemed ambitious district in Washington, which is ● JILL FELL DOWN: Shares of J. Jill Group tumbled 24 percent in homes were without power in with plans to stay open until 5 prone to flooding despite gates after-hours trading Thursday, to $11.65, after the women’s clothing southern Virginia alone. Wash- p.m. Thursday. The mall, another that are deployed to try and specialty retailer said it expected to incur a third-quarter loss of ington’s three airports shut open-air concept with 1.2 million keep the Potomac River out. 13 cents to 15 cents a share, well below the current consensus esti- down as the city joined in by de- square feet developed by Forest Most merchants were open mate of a loss of 1 cent. In last year’s quarter, Jill reported earn- claring a state of emergency just City Enterprises, bowed just Thursday morning, but prepar- ings of 18 cents. It also said it expects quarterly sales in the range as the wind and rain picked up after Labor Day. ing to close as windows were ei- of $80 million to $83 million, compared with $80 million for the in intensity. “We do have people shopping ther being taped or bordered up. same period last year, when it reports results on or about Oct. 23. Not all activity ceased, how- today. Schools are closed. State Continued on page 13 The company said the transition over the past few years from a single-channel market-sourced retailer to a multichannel verti- cally integrated private label retailer has proven to be more com- plicated than anticipated. Freemans Buy Back Namesake By Andrea M.G. Nagel sales have dropped more than Cosmetics before it was sold, Clarification 70 percent to below $20 million now serves as president of the Sales of Goody hair accessories claim 27 percent market share, NEW YORK — What goes in the past five years. family’s latest endeavor, Bev- according to Information Resources Inc., excluding Wal-Mart. The around comes around. But the Freemans had more erly Hills, Calif.-based pH market share figure was unclear in an article on page 10, Aug. 22. In one of beauty’s most in mind than a strategic busi- Beauty, the maker of mass mer- interesting — and never-ending ness opportunity. When it was chandise lines such as Totally — sagas, the Freeman family, announced in the courtroom Juicy, Totally Nutty, Binge and WWDStock Market Index for September 18 the group that sold their name- that the family had won the Botopical. Mark’s sister, Jill sake hair and skin care compa- bidding war, some Freeman Freeman-Buckshaum, serves as Composite: 117.09 Broadline Stores: 118.21 Softline Stores: 117.17 ny to the Dial Corp. in 1998 for family members couldn’t con- pH Beauty’s vice president of a reported $80 million-plus, tain their joy. marketing. Larry Freeman, who repurchased the business in a “My dad, Larry Freeman, founded Freeman Cosmetics in Chicago bankruptcy court this actually began to cry,” said the Seventies, now serves as week from The Hathi Group. Mark Freeman, who noted the chairman of pH Beauty. 1.08 1.76 -0.51 No details were released on family beat out other strategic Freeman Cosmetics was cred- the purchase price, but indus- and investment groups for the ited with creating the botanical Vendors: 112.64 Textiles: 119.02 try sources estimate the family beleaguered business. hair care category in the mid-Sev- Index base of 100 is paid less than $10 million for The younger Freeman, who enties. It has been devastating for keyed to closing prices the business as the brand’s served as president of Freeman Continued on page 20 of Dec. 31, 2002. 0.12 -0.31 I sense, therefore I am.

Thank you to all of our Retail Partners and Beauty Advisors for making Sensi the #1 Brand* at the Fragrance Bar in August

THE NEW FRAGRANCE FOR WOMEN

* source: NPD Group 4 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 Sweet Sounds in Avery Fisher ● A Buffet From Bush ● The Baby Boom

Gallery of Art and that Laura Bush evening Secretary of State and Mrs. Colin Powell will be the guests of honor at a dinner in the Diplomatic Reception Rooms at the State Department. Jo Carole Lauder is the chairman of FAPE and she always handles this annual event with finesse and charm. ● In another part of the forest, far, far away, probably on another planet, cavorted downtown, arriving at Butter with two huge bodyguards and a pack of pals. She was there for Narciso Rodriguez’s party for Carmen Kass’ 25th birthday. Britney, wearing thigh-high black boots and a one- shoulder black-and- white sweater that she kept pulling down to try and cover her underwear, jumped on the ledge behind her banquette, lit a cigarette and danced Carroll Petrie nonstop into the wee, wee hours. You know she and are putting the final touches on their first duet, “Me Against The Music,” the first single released from her new album, “Get in the Zone,” which she hopes will be out for the holidays. Britney says

Suzy she and Madonna have become “close friends.” I’ll say. By Aileen Mehle Others at Carmen’s bash were It was the opening night of the New York Demi Moore, Glenda Bailey, David Philharmonic at Avery Fisher Hall with Copperfield and models Jacquetta Lorin Maazel swaying from the podium, Wheeler, Devon Aoki, Karolina eye® gems from Verdi and Tchaikovsky swelling Kurkova, Angela Lindvall and too from the stage. Add to that the brilliant bass, For the Glorious Food dinner there was many other young beauties to sexy Samuel Ramey, singing desperately thrilling love lobster and beef tournedos and apple mention and plenty I wouldn’t songs from such grand operas as “Don Carlo” and charlottes. The Vintner Christian Wolffe, want to. “Ernani” to a full house of music lovers and you have quite who donated the wines, was there in person ● the New York night. Samuel R., a fine figure of a man, has a watching people drink them. Which they did. Hollywood is having a baby full head of carefully groomed silver hair (surely the envy Listening to the beautiful music and boom. You’ve heard that Colin of any number of gentlemen in the audience — not you, maybe even humming along under their Farrell missed the birth of his first darling) and a beard to match. Anyhow, loved the hair; breath to Tchaikovsky’s Symphony No. 5 son by his girlfriend, model Kim could have done without the beard. were such supporters as Ambassador Henry Bordenave, because he was in This opening night, a gala benefit, the orchestra’s Grunwald and Louise Grunwald, Beverley Morocco filming “Alexander the 162nd season began with cocktails on Avery Fisher’s Sills, Wendy Wasserstein with Tom Quick, Great.” The Irish bad boy is Grand Promenade and, following the concert, a dinner Marie-Josée and Henry Kravis, Carroll heading to Hollywood as soon as on the Grand Promenade and all its tiers, a welcome Petrie, Barbara Diamonstein-Spielvogel and he can to see his son and they change from the orchestra’s usual celebration held under Ambassador Carl Spielvogel, Shirley Lord won’t name the baby till he gets an adjoining tent. This not only saved them money — and A.M. Rosenthal, Wendy and Bill Luers, there. Also, after almost four tents are not free, you know — but rescued ladies in Ambassador Ed Ney and Judy Ney, Laura years of marriage, Greg Kinnear heels too high for them from the hike, and the weather. and John Pomerantz, Ambassador and Mrs. and his wife, Helen, a writer, had There has, of course, been much talk of moving the Donald Blinken, Judy and Sam Peabody, Marie-Josée Kravis their first child, a daughter they orchestra from Avery Fisher in Lincoln Center to Carmen and Zarin Mehta (he is the named Lilly. And finally, Marlee Carnegie Hall, with many reasons given, among them orchestra’s executive director) Joan and Matlin of “The West Wing” and superior acoustics. Judging by the audience’s long- Sanford Weill, Molly and A.R. Gurney, the inspiring her husband, Los Angeles detective Kevin Grandalski, lasting, tremendously enthusiastic response, it didn’t political columnist, William Safire, and, of course, the have announced that their three children are expecting sound on opening night as though anyone wanted to go chairmen of the evening, Diane and Paul Guenther (he a little brother or sister in January. anywhere. Carnegie may not be a fait accompli and the is the chairman of the Philharmonic’s board), Paula and ● trucks may not have backed up to the door, but the Leon Root, Daisy and Paul Soros and Christina and Cornelia Guest was front and center at the parade of feeling is they’re on their way. Alan MacDonald. fashionable men and women leading to the opening of The Gala chairmen of the evening, Paula Root and ● the new Loro Piana men’s shop at Bergdorf Goodman. Daisy Soros, two creative women, designed the The Friends of Art and Preservation in Embassies has Also checking out the Italian designer’s and luminous decor with lush tones of autumn in mind. arranged a wonderful day of events in Washington with accessories were Roberto Cavalli, Amanda Hearst, Remco van Vliet designed two tall centerpieces for each Laura Bush graciously inviting the Members of FAPE to American Ballet Theater’s divine dancing duo, Irina yellow and gold organza-draped dinner table — the White House for a buffet luncheon on Oct. 8. During Dvorovenko and Maxim Belotserkovsky, and CeCe towering curly branches washed in gold, surrounded by the ceremony, the design of the new U.S. Embassy in Cord, with her Yorkie, Tiger, tucked into one of the roses, dahlias and celosia. The low centerpiece rested Beijing will be presented and one of America’s foremost beautiful bags she designed. The opening also launched on a cinnabar box overflowing with hydrangea, dahlias, artists will unveil his spectacular work, which was New York Times film critic Dave Kehr’s new book, Dutch sedum and golden, sunny-sky roses. Try to commissioned by FAPE for the new building. “Italian Film Posters,” published by MoMA. Leave it to remember that when you give your next little soirée. After lunch, the Friends will visit the National the Italians to add a new twist to Hollywood’s classics.

6 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 TheFashion W There was everything from surfer girls and starlets to Downtown rockers and Uptown intelle

Anna Sui: “Party Anna Sui Zac Posen Daryl K dresses and swimsuits: What more does a girl need?” Anna Sui mused new before her show. Oh, but she fibbed, because she york knows that a girl also needs surf gear, embroidered knee socks, sandals done up with sequined blossoms, piles of jingling seashell jewelry and maybe even a canvas jacket or trench for when the air turns chill. And it all made her spring collection a delightful romp. Over the summer, Sui visited Positano and Capri for the first time and came away with beachwear on the brain. Her favorite genre: the innocents-afloat type worn by fresh- faced models on the pages of Seventeen magazine in the Sixties, the kind a girl who doesn’t have to hide from mom. Sui appropriated the look as her own and contorted the heck out of it, mixing, matching, playing peekaboo under see-through dresses and yin to the yang of Sui’s fabulous surfer shirts, shorts and jams. But it takes a certain cheek to turn a swimsuit into a party frock, which Sui did beautifully, translating bra tops and maillot concepts into baby dolls, shifts and full-skirted fluff. These came in lace, stripes, swirling paisleys and a bower of demonstrative flowers: hydrangeas, sunflowers and daisies. The look was sweet but not saccharin, and best of all, it added a fresh, playful dimension to an ultrafeminine New York season. Zac Posen

Zac Posen: Calling all starlets! Has Zac Posen got something for you. His spring collection was rife with flirty, fabulous dresses built to please the paparazzi, casting directors and his discerning pack of young party hoppers alike. And, luckily for the Posen posse, there’s enough to go around. No need to Chado worry about looking like a clone — each Ralph dress, while Posen to the core, boasts a Rucci pretty personality of its own. There’s the demure who-me? stunner in petal pink satin with its twisted straps; the grown-up fairy dress in soft jade with its sheer chevrons providing a little zigzag peekaboo. And, for the luckiest lady of all, there’s the dream-come-true party dress spangled with tiny iridescent shell discs. Working in soft pinks and peaches, dusty plum and pearly gray, Posen took inspiration from the fanciful creatures living in the depths of the Sargasso Sea. More than ever, however, Posen’s clothes looked ready for the real world, charting a course between girly and pull-out-the- stops va-va-voom. His approach to sexy was fresh, never brazen and it never looked better. Posen’s technique and his precocious tastes have finally come together in a collection that’s easy to love, by day or by night. Beyond those dresses were plenty of drop-dead separates, including blouson jackets darted to create a corseting effect Anna Sui and slinky ruched skirts. It’s the dresses, though, which will WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 7 Fashion Scoops

ON THEIR MARC: Talk about the hot seat. The front-row presence of owners Lawrence Stroll and Silas Chou at on Monday continues to reverberate, now fueling speculation galore that Jacobs owner LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton might be getting ready to sell the house. But on Thursday, Louis Vuitton honcho Yves Carcelle chuckled when told of Whirlwind the rumor, which he gladly dismissed. “I can officially deny any intention to sell the company,” he said. “In fact, we continue to develop it as we speak. lectuals. Meanwhile, Isabel finally made it to shore. We just opened the Korean market one year ago, and now we’re moving into Taiwan.” It seems LVMH loves Marc, whose rtw and accessories have been Daryl K cause a fuss. From the Hollywood growing at a fast clip. Approached after the Kors show, Stroll declined to contingent, , sitting in the answer any questions. front row, has first dibs on her pick of the Further fueling LVMH rumors, Concetta Lanciaux, the company’s executive lot. The rest of those girls had better get vice president of synergies, was spotted in the front row at Zac Posen’s show on the horn. Thursday night.

Chado Ralph Rucci: So Ralph Rucci really NO SLACKERS HERE: “I’m not much of a slacks guy,” said hip-hop producer and does have a soft side — though he gave his Rocawear chief Damon Dash as he sat waiting for the Diesel Stylelab show to get audience only a teaser’s dose of it. For the under way Wednesday night. “All I wear is jeans, unless I’m wearing a suit.” most part, however, Rucci continued his Dash said he was a big Diesel customer until he started the Rocawear line. relentless outpouring of esoteric, Along with a crowd that included singer Usher, “Sex and the City” actor Mario intellectual clothes — the beautifully Cantone and artist Stephen Sprouse, Dash fidgeted for about 45 minutes crafted, sculpted looks on which he’s built waiting for the show to start. Cause of the delay? Show officials had to figure his reputation. This season, he eased up out how to get pop icon Britney Spears into the show without being trampled occasionally, using fewer details and by by a crowd of hungry paparazzi, who staked out her seat before anyone was injecting a sportswear feeling in mixes of even in the tent. fabrics: a navy silk rain jacket and shell Spears eventually appeared at the head of the runway, and smiled for the worn with paillette shorts, for example, flashbulbs but didn’t talk to the crowd, though one autograph hound risked and a terrific suede safari jacket over a the wrath of her beefy handlers to get her signature. chiffon blouse and ivory paper taffeta The question of whether Spears would follow in launching an pants. But it’s hard to imagine what apparel line has been bandied about in fashion circles for some time, so her woman would go out in public in a appearance raised the question of whether Diesel patron Renzo Rosso was Rorschach-print shirtdress (that really looking for more than just publicity while he sat next to her during the show. would be a test) or a silk chiffon caftan in He was noncommittal about the possibility afterwards, saying only, “Today, an enormous Ming chair print (sit this one she’s just a guest. Tomorrow, who knows?” out). But about halfway through the FAST FASHION: is taking the phrase “hot-off-the-runway” to a collection, Rucci sent out a black chiffon whole new level. The recording artist showed up in all her front- slip followed by a navy peau de soie and row splendor at the Badgley Mischka show Tuesday with beau tattered silk chiffon suspender-strap Jay-Z,then went straight back to the showroom to try on number — terrific dresses that were several pieces. pretty, feminine and like a breath of fresh A few hours later, Beyoncé was on a plane back to Los air. Ralph, there are a lot of Angeles with several samples. On Wednesday, she nonintellectual fashionistas out there appeared on “The Tonight Show” with Jay Leno wearing who’d like to see more of your softer look 37, a white silk cocktail dress with magenta side. sequined ribbons. After taping “Tonight,” the diva shimmied over to Mann’s Chinese Theatre for the premiere Daryl K: Welcome back, Daryl! After of her new film, “The Fighting Temptations,” in which she the debacle she experienced via her stars opposite Cuba Gooding Jr. For the premiere, Beyoncé wore Chado involvement with what was then look 14, a pale blue beaded lace gown. And she’s slated to wear Ralph known as Pegasus Group, Daryl another number for an upcoming appearance on “The Wayne Rucci Kerrigan was back on the runway on Brady Show.” Wednesday, and the collection she But the singer’s love affair with Badgley Mischka isn’t totally showed made for interesting viewing. newfound. Beyoncé wore a Badgley Mischka gown on the red Kerrigan stayed true to her carpet for the HBO event “Divas Live” and last month bought a downtown, rock ’n’ roll roots with a gold satin ruched sequinned cocktail dress and some shoes from collection that focused on T-shirting, the Badgley Mischka boutique in Beverly Hills. Full price, too! mostly in loosened tanks that were layered, scrunched, torn and CUSTOMER APPRECIATION: Ever since left shredded, twisted and stretched into Balmain, the closest thing America’s got to a Concorde tunics and minis or worn with Couturier is Chado designer Ralph Rucci, who has shown twice leggings or below-the-knee during the Paris couture. But he pulled off a major coup for sweatpants. And sometimes, she Seventh Avenue on Thursday, drawing couture maven Deeda Blair to Beyoncé added on proletariat embellishments make a rare ready-to-wear appearance at his show. “I thought that it was in bursts of decorative buttons. superb,” she said after the show. “There were so many wearable, The clothes looked strong, and distinguished clothes, especially that black feathered number at the end.” offered a necessary antidote to the lighthearted flou that has dominated GUERRIERO UNMASKED: Italian designer Stefano Guerriero is taking over as the season here. Few women want creative director at Maska. The former Fin.part brand, now owned by the to look powder-puff pretty all the private investment fund Go & Create, tapped the up-and-coming Neapolitan time, and there will always be a designer to rework the brand’s image. His first collection will bow for fall market for clothes with street- 2004. “Up until now, Maska was really connected to the Italian market,” smart attitude. Guerriero said. “Our objective is to bring international appeal to the brand by Ye t this collection raised an creating a hyper-feminine, young, glam collection.” Known for his sexy, rock interesting question. Kerrigan ’n’ roll looks, Guerriero launched his own line in 1999. A year later, he linked made her name as the downtown up with Mario Bandiera, ceo of BVM, which owns Les Copains. girl’s favorite, delivering that Bandiera bought 40 percent of Guerriero’s business and BVM became rock ’n’ roll swagger along with Guerriero’s licensee. As part of the arrangement, Guerriero also designed the great clothes that became iconic Les Copains women’s line. Although he will continue with his collaboration in their milieu — pants, hoodies, with BVM to produce his namesake collection, following the spring line, he Ts. These proved to have broad will no longer design Les Copains. appeal even as Kerrigan’s m.o. remained an undone one and SOCIALITE CHEFS: From decorating to party planning, a design-related career apart from the main. has become de rigeur for all self-respecting socialites these days. But part of the appeal of her It’s no surprise, then, that Fendi recruited Tiffany Dubin, Rena Sindi, Sally clothes on the runway was the shock Albermarle, Kim Heirston and Eva Lorenzotti to put their own spin on the house’s of the new, and charm of her downtown- new Chef bag. Fendi sent each a bag, which was accompanied by a letter girl-breaks-through tale. Now, that story is asking them to personalize it, or, in Fendi-speak, let it “inspire your inner no longer new, and Kerrigan finds herself Chef.” The results will be on view Tuesday, when Fendi is throwing a party at in a very different position. Hers are its Fifth Avenue flagship in honor of the New Museum of Contemporary Art’s terrific clothes — smart, strong, wearable New Group benefit. The event will be hosted by Silvia Fendi and Lisa Phillips, — but whether Kerrigan can regain and and co-hosted by Dubin, Sindi, Anh Duong, Francois Kress, Anne McNally, maintain her stature as a designer of Carlos Mota, Marjorie Raein and Yvonne Force. major import without broadening her

focus remains to be seen. GREGG DEGUIRE/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY BEYONCE MITRA; GIANNONI AND ROBERT GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 A Backward Gl Look back with pleasure. The fashion moments of previous decades, from Sixties-style Pop Art looks to Joan Jett

Stephen Burrows’ World: Thanks for the memories. This love fest of a Stephen show, with and other icons modeling Burrows’ terrific Burrows clothes, was nostalgic for those who recall the splash he originally made in the Seventies — and a treat for the young. Burrows’ beginnings were echoed in dramatic jersey and Pop Art dot styles that worked as well for spring 2004 as they did 30 years ago. The new newest looks were lots of fun, too: bright, playful, floral-printed tap shorts worn with a yellow charmeuse blouse and a flirty mini shirtdress in tan, brown and gray york colorblocked rayon matte jersey. The crowd york whooped and hollered for Karen Bjornson in the liquid turquoise column tied at one shoulder, Cleveland in a short, Pop Art silk dress and her daughter, Anna Van Ravenstein, running in a knockout hooded red matte jersey jacket and minidress. And sashaying in the long gold silk charmeuse sizzler brought down the house.

Carmen Marc Valvo: As the doctor would say, “It must be going Stephen around.” And Valvo certainly Burrows caught the bug for all that sweetness and charm. But he treated his with a dose of sizzle, mixing a tougher edge into the equation. Throughout the show, he turned sweet into sexy as floaty chiffons and girly colors played against tougher shapes — biker jackets, corsets, skinny double- wrapped belts — just the kind you’d Diesel see on Joan Jett. StyleLab But the soft-hard theme wasn’t so marked a contrast that it looked as if Jeffrey naughty and nice were playing tug-of-war on Chow the catwalk. Start to finish, it was full-on feminine. And nowhere was that more apparent than in the pretty lineup of ribbon- embroidered dresses, floral prints, saucy ruffles, handkerchief hemlines and streamers. But there was such an abundance of floral chiffon gowns that they soon became indistinguishable. What stood out in this endless array was the lean cashmere and silk tank worn over a short Jeffrey chiffon petal skirt, and a drop-waist tank dress with shredded chiffon strip details, Chow both in pale pink and with a cabbage rose at the hip. All in all, it was a solid collection of very pretty clothes.

Behnaz Sarafpour: With her spring collection, went to extremes. After all, she’s in an adventurous mood lately, having just quit her day job as a private label designer at Barneys New York to focus on her signature collection full time. Subverting her overtly girly instincts, Sarafpour opened the show with a faux Tough Chic moment, tinged with Eighties overtones. She denied herself froufrou, sending out a smart sex kitten’s patent trench and a fleet of body-hugging strapless dresses instead. Smack in the middle of a season full of soft-spoken clothes, Sarafpour’s was a siren’s call. Daring? Definitely. But happily, for those who missed Sarafpour’s sweetness, the designer soon overcame her fever, taming the bad-girl theme with some classically good-girl touches. A multicolored, bow-bedecked gingham top was paired with a patent mini, while sizzling bustier dresses were shown over simple cotton tanks. For the kicky deb who missed Arnold Scaasi’s heights, out came charming mini party frocks, poufed just so. While the shocking switch to sexy dressing left some wondering just where Sarafpour would go next, others found her surprise a welcome one. Just ask the homecoming queen. What’s the fun in being a good girl if you can’t vamp sometimes? WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 9

Carmen Marc Valvo Harlem Heights It may have been only a few subway stops from Bryant Park, but Wednesday night’s Harlem’s In Vogue show was leagues Carmen away from the typical fashion show. Held Marc Valvo at the Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture, the event didn’t just showcase three urban designers — Her lance Game 2, Leslie V. Day and Edwing D’Angelo — it also honored pioneers in biker styles, turn up once more. the industry. Bud Konheim, ceo of , helped make the event happen and served as co-host. Dorothea Towles Church and Norma Jean Darden picked up fashion pioneer awards for being two of the first black models, and Walter Greene, a fashion journalist, took home a media excellence

Leslie Her V. Day Game 2

Diesel StyleLab

Jeffrey Chow: Chow bella! For his debut show, Chow chose the second floor of the mansion, and with its series of small, connected rooms, it’s not a place that springs to mind for a runway show. However, for this mix of uptown evening with a pinch of downtown cool, its well-appointed, wood-paneled walls and chandeliered ceilings seemed an apt setting. So, how does a girl go classic and hip when the sun goes down? Slip into a pair of shorts, of course. “Shorts?” you ask. Well, these aren’t your nylon Adidas or even your sexy terry pair. Chow’s abbreviated lovelies, Norma Jean Darden, Alma Rangel, wife of which hit somewhere between a Bermuda congressman Charles Rangel, and length and short-shorts, were tailored to Dorothea Towles Church. perfection in a crisp silk and cotton blend as well as iridescent silk. Paired with tops award. When a presenter asked the like a gorgeous sequined cape and matching audience to imagine what it was like to be satin tank top or just a simple jersey tank cut the first black model on a Paris runway, on the bias, the look was complete. As for skirts Church said, “You can’t at all.” During the and dresses, among Chow’s best were a flippy Fifties, she worked for the likes of , sequined silk skirt worn with a matching tank and a pair Balmain and Piquet. And Darden of simple white gowns bound by glossy silver ribbon woven recalled how, at age 19, she asked a into a bodice or a bra. Condé Nast receptionist about modeling Chow occasionally overcomplicated matters, as in an opportunities and was stunned to hear, inexplicable black leather opera-length glove that reached “Modeling is a white woman’s priority.” past the shoulder to turn itself into a cape and the Ironically, many years later, it was a shirtdresses he tied up with lengths of ribbon. But his high Vogue editor who hooked Darden up with notes beautifully drowned out these tinny sounds. a publisher for her well-read cookbooks. The former model also runs the Diesel StyleLab: The Diesel line may be known for its successful uptown eatery Spoonbread. campy, often provocative ad campaigns, but according to Throughout the show that followed Diesel Group founder and chief executive officer Renzo the presentations, Darden and Towles Rosso, Diesel StyleLab is where the company explores its clapped and cheered every exit, along creative side. From its inception in 1998, the design team, with the rest of the packed house. First under the direction of Wilbert Das, has challenged out was Her Game 2, featuring tweaked convention, putting together cuts, fabrics and styling versions of terry track suits — an orange combinations that were as culturally stimulating and and white hoodie and skirt, and denim forward thinking as its customers. looks accented with gold bandeaus. So, with a hot soundtrack by Paris-based DJ Michel Next came evening wear designers Gaubert pulsing over monster speakers, and Britney Spears Leslie V. Day and Edwing D’Angelo. Day in her first front-row appearance of the week, Das and his sent out body-skimming, slinky numbers team set out to capture a techno-Eighties-punk aesthetic. in bright jewel tones and florals, with The results were mixed. The profusion of oversized T-shirt very little embellishment except for a dresses, slouchy pants and vests, many featuring straps and ruffled trim or asymmetric hem. exposed zippers, were all well and good, but the collection D’Angelo, however, cranked the va-va- lacked the futuristic elements people have come to expect voom volume with lots of skin — a series from the StyleLab line. Simply put: It’s all been seen before. of ruffled frocks with thigh-high slits. Of So while there’s little doubt the black leather or denim note was a chic one-shouldered gown in Behnaz Behnaz bomber jackets, cotton parachute pants and screen-printed white silk that was very Seventies. Sarafpour Sarafpour sweatshirts will be on many a hit list this spring, it’s too bad

the future was so reminiscent of the past. TURNER GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND DAVID GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 Fashion Scoops

ANOTHER CELEB LINE?: Jessica Simpson has been making the rounds this week, showing up at the Michael Kors, Patricia Field and new shows. Maybe she’s placing orders, or maybe she’s taking notes for a clothing line to come. “I york would love to do a line with my mom. We were actually just talking about that,” she said at the Us Weekly party Wednesday night. “I think I would do a line of dresses because everyone does jeans. I don’t want to do what everyone else does.” And as for help with the designing, Simpson said she doubts she’ll get any help from her new husband, Nick Lachey. “Nick? He’s not into fashion at all. He likes to look good, but when it comes to fashion, he’s not interested.”

HAUTE KIDS: Re-creating the Port-Royal Abbey in Paris, or at least some semblance of it, at Goldie Hawn’s Pacific Palisades home for Tuesday’s luncheon benefiting the Children’s Action Network and Westside Children's Center has required nothing less than a miniarmy of local set designers and builders. But Karl Lagerfeld, who will have to miss the event as he works on the upcoming rtw shows, wanted the presentation of haute couture — the first time couture will be shown at this annual, star-filled event — to evoke the mood conjured at the original event in July. Of the 64 fall looks he unveiled then, 62 will be at the lunch, hosted by Hawn and daughter Kate Hudson. What’s more, fans can get up close and personal with the collection at the Beverly Hills Chanel boutique through Thursday — by appointment only, of course.

CRUISE CONTROL: The invites for the opening night bash Stella Sept. 28 of Stella McCartney’s Los Angeles boutique have McCartney’s barely gone out, and they’ve already become a coveted invite collector’s item. That’s because they not only allow entrée into the event — which after last year’s Absolut Stella party at the Chateau Marmont, complete with a burlesque dancer and mariachis, is ranked among the city’s best. They also hit a nerve among car-crazed locals: a die- cut air freshner spelling out “Stella” in neon light-looking script that’s been dipped in the designer’s new fragrance, which bowed last week. It can actually hang from a rear-view mirror with the attached gold cord. It’s so L.A. “I wanted my invitations to have a sense of humor about them,” McCartney said. “I figured, since my guests would have to take a car to come to the party, I’d rather have them come in a Stella-scented car!”

TV TIMES: Need a Chanel fix? If you happen to be in Europe on Oct. 5, flick on the tube and settle in for a marathon evening. French station Arte just produced two new one-hour documentaries on the famous house, and plans to air them in France and Germany, in tandem with the 1957 fashion flick, “Designing Women.” The first documentary delves into the life and archives of Coco Chanel, while the second is devoted to today’s creative torchbearers, with a special focus on Karl Lagerfeld, who’s a natural in front of any camera. An advance screening is planned for the fashion flock in Paris next week.

FASHION POLICE: Paris’ police force is getting new outfits — and they’re coming from the house of . France’s minister of the interior, Nicolas Sarkozy, presented the new sporty-chic uniforms in Marseille on Thursday. But Nicolas Ghesquière didn’t design them. The house’s uniform division, where Ghesquière got his start, whipped them up. They will rotate into use late next year.

GET YOUR ROCKS OFF: So how will the oldest luxury brand and official jeweler of the Royal Family celebrate a first birthday Sunday? In the case of Garrard and its creative director, Jade Jagger, marking the first year of the London store means flying in Hollywood burlesque queen (and Marilyn Manson girlfriend) Dita Von Teese. A legend in the international fetish and pinup circles — and Playboy’s Ms. December 2002, a fitting footnote, given Garrard recently announced a collaboration with the rabbit head brand — Von Teese will present two of her signature acts: a fan dance on toe, and a sponge-and-swivel number she performs in an enormous martini glass. “We didn’t want another store cocktail party — yawn,” said Garrard assistant creative director Fiona Leahy, who, along with Jagger, will take Von Teese to see the Rolling Stones in Twickenham, outside London, on Saturday night. “Burlesque, like Garrard, is all about temptation and desire. It’s creating the allure.”

SATELLITE COLLECTION: Those skipping London Fashion Week need not despair completely this season. On Tuesday, designer Nicole Farhi is holding a breakfast event at her uptown eatery Nicole’s. There, editors will be treated to a live transmission of her spring show via satellite. But there’s more: Since the designer can’t be there personally, she has enlisted her friend Alan Cumming to be the host, and Farhi is even expected to say a few words to the New York audience just before the show starts.

BLASS FROM THE PAST: Admittedly, it’s difficult to keep up with the personnel changes at Bill Blass, but at least 7th on Sixth should have a clue who’s designing the line these days. Shortly after Michael GENERRA Vollbracht showed his debut collection for the house on Tuesday, the organization’s Web site, 7thonsixth.com, featured a dozen of his looks along with the picture of the designer. But that’s not Vollbracht in the picture, it’s his predecessor, Lars Nilsson, who was let go in February COMING SPRING 2004 the day after his show. Are they trying to say something? WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 11 Beauty’s Backstage Laboratory The tents are incubating more than just apparel trends. Soon-to-be-launched cosmetics products are getting their first road test.

Continued from page one tested out several items backstage — including a lip everything,” said Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne, group gloss, nail polish, shimmer shadow brick and blush, all president at The Estée Lauder Cos., who oversees the in pink — which she is considering for spring. The gloss company’s eponymous flagship brand as well as its and nail polish, which both are in a baby pink color, are backstage mainstay, MAC Cosmetics. “We can get a read “almost sure things for next season,” but the blush, right away on products — whether they’re legitimate which is temporarily called Peony, is a bright pink — or need more work,” he added. “Especially for color- “maybe too bright for retail,” Brown said. The new shim- driven brands, its a very valuable test.” In fact, in sev- mer brick is also being tested “to see whether the colors eral cases, brands have been born backstage — includ- are too pink for the average customer.” Brown added ing MAC, Stila and Bobbi Brown. that at other shows — such as and Zang Toi — Jeanine Lobell, founder of Stila, noted a number of she and her team tested out other items in development, her current products — including the existing Demi including an aquamarine eye dust. Creme lip color and Convertible Color cheek and lip col- When asked if any of the products she was using at ors — have arisen from backstage experimentation. Her Daryl K were unfinished, Brown half-jokingly replied: newest trial product is a mousse-textured cheek color, “The whole bag of spring color.” She added that “spring tentatively set for launch late next spring, which is done” with regard to packaging and names — “But I she was trying out on the models at Nicole still have time to work on the final colors.” Miller, m.r.s. and Lilly Pulitzer. “The texture Brown cited a particular palette of five shades, is great for all skin types,” said Lobell, who called Pink Shimmer Brick, that was still being said she’s also working on developing an tweaked. “You still have time to make changes,” Brown eye color version of the product. new said of backstage work, adding there is an array of Ken Lynch, executive director of glob- faces available during fashion week. “I work with hun- al product development and packaging dreds of girls and skin tones and I can see what really for Stila, said the as-yet-unnamed prod- works and what doesn’t.” uct will likely be available in six shades. york Cynde Watson, director of global makeup artistry for “The mousse blends with the skin really Bobbi Brown, pointed out that a particular gel color well,” noted Lynch. “It works better with dry smudged onto many cheeks and lips at Daryl K was skin. It’s very whipped and sheer.” Also appear- also a work in progress. An existing product that is off ing backstage: Stila’s spring color story and the the market in preparation for reintroduction, the tube brand’s first brow gels, set to launch in May. went by Pink Truffle in backstage parlance. Gordon Espinet, MAC’s executive director of makeup Color isn’t the only thing benefiting from backstage artistry, said that this season, the brand is playing with road testing. Michael Gordon, founder and president of new concealers and stick foundations. “Backstage is the Bumble and bumble, noted his company was testing best way to put products to the test,” said Espinet. “Some two new hair products backstage at DKNY Monday of our best success stories have been products where night — an aerosol gloss tentatively dubbed BB Gloss, we’ve run the tests backstage. Studio Tech [a portable and an aerosol version of its hair powders. “We’re al- foundation in a compact] got its birth backstage.” ways trying obsessively to improve products,” said John Demsey, president of MAC, agreed, adding that Gordon. “We’ve done gloss for years, but never in an a number of the brand’s best-selling and upcoming new aerosol form. And since our products are intended for items — including several foundations, the brand’s salon usage, there really is no better place to try them newly reformulated nail lacquers and a number of its than in a backstage environment. These guys are doing color collections — have originated from backstage hair on a whole new level — if they can hold up here, work. “The shows serve as labs on many levels,” said they will work for just about everyone. And the models Demsey. “For day-in and day-out work, it allows us to and hairstylists are very product-savvy. If they’re giving experiment with new textures. Also, each season, the it the thumbs-up, its a good indicator that the product shows allow us to confirm that our upcoming color di- will be well received. We’re also lucky to be small rections make sense, and if we need to tweak slightly, enough to do small test runs for shows — if we were a we do. We’re seeing that our spring collection is right bigger company, we probably couldn’t, but we’ll on the money as far as color, texture and definition — go in production with enough of something it’s a great market read before it launches.” for a show, then decide if it’s worth In fact, a number of brands — including MAC, Shu doing in our regular product line.” Uemura, Stila, Shiseido, Bobbi Brown, Diane von Stylist Jimmy Paul, who was work- Furstenberg Beauty and Urban Decay — were using ing with Bumble and bumble at a num- prototype colors from their spring makeup collections, ber of shows including DKNY, Bill Blass most of which won’t hit department store counters and Vivienne Tam, gave the new Bumble until February or March. products — in nondescript silver cans At Bill Blass, Frances Hathaway was using two MAC marked with graphics like “Test me (experts lipsticks, called “Midi Mauve” and “Politely Pink,” that only)” — a spin, as well. “Even though it’s still were nearing the completion of their evolutionary in development, it has been tested a lot before process but won’t be fully ready for launch until the it reaches the show,” Paul said of unfinished spring, she said. “It’s a special kind of thing,” Hathaway products. “I make sure I like it beforehand,” he said of using unfinished product. “It’s new for starters, continued, adding, “You’d never take the chance which strikes more of an interest than something that’s that something doesn’t work at a fashion show, but I been around for years. Technology and research and de- love the idea of having something no one else has.” velopment is on the side of makeup artists, helping us to Rodney Cutler, owner of Manhattan’s Cutler Salon PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY do a better job. Foundations and things that diffuse light From top: New products from Bobbi Brown and and a product spokesperson for Redken, noted while have been getting better, sheerer and more natural.” Bumble and bumble; testing a new Shiseido the shows provide great prelaunch feedback, it’s risky to At Marc by Marc Jacobs, Dick Page was using the pro- lipstick; an upcoming Urban Decay gloss. go into the shows with too raw of a product idea. “Testing totype — estimated to be a $5,000 compact — for a new a completely raw product can be fairly risky — the stakes metallic cream eye liner palette that Shiseido is current- you know right then if it’s going to work are simply too high,” said Cutler, who, along with his ly putting into production under its Inoui ID color cos- or not,” said Niki Pashalidis, national team, was working on a number of shows this week. metics brand, which is only distributed in Japan. Page makeup director for Diane von Fursten- “However, if it’s nearly done, it can be a good pre-launch also used the line backstage at Narciso Rodriguez. berg Beauty. “Everybody looks [to the run- indicator — and it’s also helpful once the product is “Backstage is not a good testing ground [for prod- way] for style. You can’t just sell it on the floor launched, to point out to consumers the relationship be- ucts],” said Page, “but a good place to air them out and right away, you have to [first] create excitement.” tween the runways and the product. It makes it more rel- see how people react to colors and textures.” Though he ’s show turned out to be a great place evant to the consumers when you’re with them in the acknowledged that he’d likely use something that’s not for makeup artist Charlie Green to try out a shade of salon.” Cutler was using two upcoming Redken products 100 percent ready for market, he wouldn’t use something Urban Decay’s new XXX Shine Lip Gloss, dubbed Guys —Cement Paste, a hard-holding gel, and Full Frame, an that hasn’t been put through most of its paces. “I would Love BJ, an ode to the designer’s initials. The sheer, updated mousse — for several of the shows. “This is the never use something for a show that I haven’t used be- candy-apple red gloss, designed by Johnson and Urban final test before they go onto counters,” he said. fore, or something that hasn’t been fully worked out.” Decay founder Wende Zomnir, arrived in New York on Several hair care lines also received their final acid Two products from Diane von Furstenberg Beauty’s Friday, when fashion week kicked off, and will be added test — the model critique — backstage this season, spring offering, called the Eclipse Collection, were put to Urban Decay’s spring 2004 Bombshell Collection. Aveda’s new Air Control, a nonaerosol hairspray which through their first acid test at the designer’s Sunday At , Tom Pecheux took Shiseido’s will debut in May 2004, was previewed at the Baby Phat evening show. The idea was to introduce the products, new Perfecting Lipstick for a spin. Pecheux, who and Jennifer Nicholson shows, while the L’Oréal- called Eclipsticks cheek, eye and lip colors, on the runway, helped develop the brand’s latest color line, said the owned Kérastase brand road tested its new Nutri giving a first glimpse to a specialized crowd of everyone new formula “has the rich color of a lipstick, yet is Sculpt line of shampoos, conditioners and styling prod- from makeup artists and models to buyers and editors. sheerer and more creamy than traditional formulas.” ucts backstage at Behnaz Sarafpour. “It’s important because you’re really going to incor- At Peter Som, Bobbi Brown, founder and chief execu- — With contributions from porate those looks into the spring [apparel] looks and tive officer of the cosmetics brand that bears her name, Andrea M.G. Nagel and Kristin Finn 12 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 GE Settles Lawsuit Seven Sues Express for Trademark

NEW YORK — Peter Koral, pres- cer of Seven For All Mankind. With Ward Creditors ident of Seven For All Mankind, “We asked Express to stop mis- the Los Angeles-based denim leading their customers. The By Vicki M. Young $26.5 million, or 20 cents on the firm, Thursday sued Express problems have continued. To dollar. The committee rejected stores, a subsidiary of Limited protect our brand and our val- NEW YORK — General Electric the proposal and filed a lawsuit Brands Inc., for false advertis- ued customers, and to reduce Capital Corp. has settled a law- in January 2002 in Delaware. ing and breach of contract over consumer confusion, we decid- suit filed last year by the unse- The lawsuit sought at least the Seven7 line. Koral filed his ed we had no choice but to sue.” cured creditors committee of $500 million in damages, alleg- complaint in Los Angeles feder- L’ K oral seeks injunctive re- the now defunct Montgomery ing that GE “intentionally mis- al court. lief, unspecified damages and a Ward unit for $80 million. led creditors.” Specifically, it This is the second such suit. In disgorgement of profits made by The parties reached the settle- charged that the lender manipu- June, L’Koral Inc., which pro- Express on the sale of Express’ ment last Friday, and are seeking lated the retail firm’s financial duces the Seven For All Mankind Seven7 products. L’Koral’s attor- Delaware bankruptcy court ap- structure and the timing of its line, settled a suit with Express neys are Bruce Wessel, Harry proval of the agreement, accord- second bankruptcy filing to “ben- in which the jeansmaker had Mittleman and Jane Wald of ing to Cathy Hershcopf, an attor- efit their own credit card and charged trademark infringement Irell & Manella LLP. ney at Kronish Lieb Weiner & marketing businesses” and maxi- and unfair competition. As reported in April, Express Hellman, which represents the mize certain tax advantages. It According to the latest suit, launched the Seven7 line of jeans committee. also sought another $500 million Express had promised to change for fall retailing because it was Because of pending approval, as a restitution claim. the design and logo of Express’ looking to climb into the premi- it could not be immediately as- The committee charged credi- Seven7 jeans. L’Koral’s new suit um denim business. The store certained what the ultimate pay- tors were “duped into extending contends that Express did not sells Seven7 jeans for $78 to $98, out will be to individual credi- hundreds of millions of dollars in keep its promise and has sold a price well above its own brand- tors. Under the terms of the unsecured credit to the debtors,” Seven7 jeans with logos that ed jeans that retail at around agreement, sources said, GE will and that GE Capital made mil- would confuse Express cus- $49.50. The Seven7 brand result- pay $58 million in cash and waive lions in loans to Ward’s secured tomers by falsely suggesting that ed from a deal between Express claims against Ward’s in the by the retailer’s real estate, cre- the manufacturer of Seven For Jeans by Seven For All Mankind. and Tarrant Apparel Group bankruptcy that are worth $250 ating the impression that GE All Mankind jeans is manufactur- chairman and chief executive million. The waiver increases the Capital was supporting Ward’s. ing the Seven7 jeans for Express. Express were not designed by Gerard Guez. Guez owns Seven payout to unsecured creditors by The lawsuit said that the ef- Seven For All Mankind also L’ K oral or any designer of Seven Licensing Co., which holds the $22 million. fect of the loans was to delay alleged that the Express sales For All Mankind’s products, ac- U.S. rights to the Seven7 brand, Calls to GE seeking comment Ward’s bankruptcy while at the staff has used a whispering cam- cording to the suit. which was founded in Paris and weren’t returned. same time “diminish — by tens paign, in which they have been “For many weeks we have is not related to the high-end As reported, Ward’s filed for of millions of dollars — the telling consumers that a design- been receiving complaints from Seven For All Mankind brand. Chapter 11 in Delaware in Decem- value of Ward’s estate.” er for Seven For All Mankind around the country about what Executives at Express could ber 2000, its second filing in Lawrence Gottlieb of Kronish has designed Express’ Seven7 Express is doing,” said Trent not be reached for comment. three years, and promptly said it Lieb, lead counsel for the com- line. The Seven7 jeans sold by MacLean, chief operating offi- — Julee Greenberg was liquidating operations. GE mittee, said in a statement, Capital bought Ward’s in 1999 out “This significant settlement of the earlier bankruptcy. should be a wake-up call to com- In comparison to the settle- panies that think they can try to ment, GE Capital in a reorgani- secure economic benefits for zation plan originally proposed themselves at the expense of un- Maharishi Takes A&F to Court to pay unsecured creditors just secured creditors.” NEW YORK — Maharishi said it tremely disappointed when I first ed that it would discontinue sell- has filed a lawsuit against Aber- saw Abercrombie & Fitch’s Roll ing the pant and did so for two crombie & Fitch for trade dress Up Pants being sold, as they were years [but] resumed sales of varia- infringement in a Manhattan fed- a direct copy of my Snopants. Not tions [of the pant,] leaving me with eral court. only did Abercrombie & Fitch no choice but to bring this lawsuit Ferré Jewelry Line The London-based Eastern-in- replicate the distinctive elements for trade dress infringement.” fluenced apparel brand charged that the American specialty chain, with its Roll Up Pants I was extremely disappointed when Set for Fall Launch styles, infringed on Maharishi’s “ trade dress by copying elements I first saw Abercrombie & Fitch’s Roll — Gianfranco Ferré is of its Snopants. The firm is seek- launching his first jewelry col- ing damages for past infringe- Up Pants being sold, as they were a lection, his “longtime love,” as ment and an injunction barring the designer described it in a A&F from further infringement. direct copy of my Snopants. statement. Court records weren’t immedi- — Hardy Blechman,” Maharishi The collection will be avail- ately available. able this fall at the brand’s Maharishi’s Snopants, the of the [product] but it even went According to Blechman, the Milan, Paris and New York bou- company said, have been worn so far as to replicate the embroi- two are in discussions trying to tiques exclusively. by celebrities such as Brad Pitt dered dragon on the back leg.” resolve their dispute. In line with his apparel col- and Madonna. Blechman said he sent a cease- A spokesman for A&F de- lections, the designer’s jewelry Hardy Blechman, owner and and-desist letter ordering A&F to clined comment, saying the firm line, which initially consists of creative director of Maharishi, stop selling its Shi Ding Roll Up doesn’t discuss pending litigation. 20 pieces, centers on gold as a said in a statement, “I was ex- Pant. A&F, he added, “represent- — V.M.Y. “pure and utter emblem of lux- ury” with rings, bracelets, ear- rings, pins, necklaces, chains, tiepins and money clips, hand- crafted in 18-karat yellow and Taubman Wins Battle in Senate white gold and encrusted with diamonds. NEW YORK — Taubman Centers The bill will now be sent to the right thing by clarifying the Ferré’s personal touch is Inc.’s efforts to rebuff Simon Michigan Gov. Jennifer Granholm, intent of the Michigan Control apparent in the use of the safe- Property Group Inc.’s ongoing who is expected to sign it. Share Acquisitions Act to contin- ty pin, the collection’s leitmo- hostile takeover bid received a The dispute began when the ue to protect Michigan companies tif. A safety pin always serves big assist from the Michigan Taubman family engaged other from corporate raiders.” as the designer’s tiepin, and is State Senate Thursday. almost his good-luck charm. The senate passed, by a 24 to The legislation allows the Taubman The jewelry line, which had 14 margin, legislation that will been put on hold earlier this allow the Taubman family to vote family to vote their controlling shares year, follows the introduction of their controlling shares against the designer’s younger line for the takeover, overturning a state against the takeover, overturning a men and women, GF Ferré, court ruling that effectively pre- which is bowing for spring 2004. vented them from doing so. state court ruling. The company is expanding The earlier court ruling said its business in such markets as the Taubman family, which con- shareholders to vote as a bloc The setback for Simon was its the U.S. and Japan, and stream- trols approximately two-thirds of against the takeover. Michigan second in a week. Last Thursday, lining its distribution as it Gianfranco Ferré’s new jewelry line. the company, needed the approval law stipulates that under certain as reported, a federal district opens new stores. In the first lion euros at current exchange). of non-family shareholders to vote conditions, such groups must re- court ordered the firm to sell its half, sales of the Ferré brand Parent firm IT Holding said ad- their interest. While the Taubman ceive approval from outside 27.5 percent stake in Minnesota’s grew 3.2 percent to $65.1 mil- ditional sales from licenses family opposes the takeover, most shareholders. The bill effectively Mall of America to Triple Five for lion (converted from 58.1 mil- amounted to $67.2 million. of the shares owned by non-family nullifies that stipulation. $81.4 million. Simon said it would stockholders have been voted in In a statement, Taubman ap- appeal the ruling. favor of the deal. plauded the legislature “for doing —Dan Burrows WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 13 Sears to Fight Big-Box Competitors With New Format Continued from page 2 call for service and price verifiers to scan items for their hardware, sporting goods and toys. The family entertain- square foot. At that rate, the Sears Grand stores should hit prices. There are cashiers at the front of the store, where ment area anchors the center rear section of the store. about $47 million in sales. Productivity at Sears stores has up to 20 can operate during peak periods, and another 10 On the Her side, there’s bedding, bath and kitchen, declined from $318 in 2001 and $332 in 2000. checkout registers inside certain departments, such as major appliances, sewing, household products and con- Post said Sears Grand would be in a test mode for 12 electronics and gardening. There is also a customer serv- sumables, which, for the first time, will include food to 24 months “to understand what is working and what is ice center at the front of the store to handle returns, ex- items like light groceries, milk, soft drinks and snacks. not. This is very much a strategy that starts to think changes, bill payments and merchandise questions; a one- This area is followed by a pet products department fol- about Sears five, 10 years from now, and is very much hour photo development service, and a cafe-bakery. lowed by health and beauty aids. compatible to what we do in the malls.” ● A plant nursery and a year-round toy department. “What’s somewhat different is the store is very open, Through 2005, Sears Grand whereas in our normal full-line stores will open in Las Vegas, stores, we have a tremendous Gurnee, Ill., and Rancho Cuca- amount of wall space,” Post ob- monga, a suburb of Los Angeles, served. “In this Sears Grand the company noted. store, it’s more limited. How- “These are pilot stores, not a ever, we have ‘pavilions’ that in- prototype,” Post said. “Each clude a fitting room on an is- will be different in size,” rang- land, with outside walls that are ing from Las Vegas with 165,000 merchandised.” square feet to Gurnee, with Post also said the store has 200,000 square feet. “Our intent “lifestyle graphics and color, is to differentiate them enough feels comfortable and is very, so we can start to understand very different” from other Sears what is important from the con- stores. While the soft opening is sumer standpoint,” Post said. Saturday, the official opening is The Gurnee store, for example, Oct. 11. won’t include a plant nursery. Asked if Sears Grand could Among the Sears Grand fea- move into Great Indoors, anoth- tures new to the retailer are: er Sears, Roebuck retail con- l A “modified” racetrack lay- cept, Post replied that Sears out placing apparel right in the Grand is not a replacement center core of the store. The ap- strategy, though Great Indoors parel assortment, including earlier this year announced that Lands’ End, Covington, Canyon three of its 21 sites would be River Blues and other propriety closed. At an analyst conference brands, is essentially the same recently, Sears, Roebuck chair- as that sold at traditional Sears man and chief executive Alan stores. Looking into Sears Lacy said Sears Grand, if the Grand, shoppers will see men’s The first Sears Grand in West Jordan, Utah; a pilot for future growth. concept gets good consumer re- wear first, then children’s wear sponse, could replace some followed by women’s ready-to- smaller Sears, Roebuck sites. wear, situated in the center. The women’s area is about Existing Sears stores only carry toys for the holiday season. Post said he wasn’t formulating any additional new 12,000 square feet. Men’s wear has 7,000 square feet. ● Two main entrances, dividing the store into His formats for Sears beyond Sears Grand. “This is my pri- ● An 18-foot-wide, 400-foot-long boulevard down the and Her sides, on the right and left, respectively, enter- ority at this point,’ he said, adding that Sears is “very, center to display impulse products. “They could be any- ing the store. very diligently working on our mall-based stores…to im- thing from Pampers to sweaters to motorized garage On the His side, the lineup includes a seasonal goods prove the overall experience. We probably should never door openers,” Post said. department, which will sell such things as grills for sum- be confident, but we are very much encouraged by the ● More logical adjacencies. For example, men’s wear mer, trim for Christmas or patio furniture for spring. way that business is starting to perform. We think the is closer to automotive. Then there’s a nursery, followed by lawn equipment such mall stores will start growing at a rate very positive on a ● Increased service, including 15 kiosks with phones to as mowers and tractors, a paint department, automotive, comp-store basis.” Hurricane Hits Nation’s Capital Retailers Painting the Town Red NEW YORK — Fashion week means stores get their most fes- Continued from page 2 tive. So Lord & Taylor on Monday celebrated its Red Grooms For Brigitte Lupesco, who owns the exhibition in its Fifth Avenue windows on the main floor and designer boutique Else on M Street in even on the scaffolding over the facade where the upper win- Georgetown with her husband, Pierre, dows are being redone, and Façonnable the next day toasted the hurricane was just another the opening of its Rockefeller Center flagship with a party headache in an “up-and-down, up- drawing about 1,000 guests and supporting the Lennox Hill and-down” fall selling season. Neighborhood House. “We know we will have water in The Façonnable brand is based in Nice, France, and is the basement, so we had to bring owned by Seattle-based Nordstrom. It sells at Nordstrom stores things upstairs,” she said. “We taped and through freestanding Façonnable shops. “It’s a unique the windows and that’s it. It’s a mess. business model,” said We’re going to lose business.” Mark Brashear, presi- At the other end of M Street, Up dent of Façonnable. “It’s Against the Wall, a trendy boutique not the worst assign- From left: Sandra Shafer, Façonnable model popular with teenagers and college ment, living on the Michael Gandolfi, Mark Brashear and Katherine students, did a smattering of business Riviera.” Melchior Ray, Façonnable’s global brand director. in a city where streets were largely At the cocktail empty. A clerk reported selling a $64 reception for Grooms, pair of LRG jeans, a $90 Robert the artist, best known Graham button-down shirt and two for his unique visions $26 Rocawear long sleeve T-shirts. of New York, pop cul- In the morning, Wendy Red, fash- ture and carnivals, said ion director of the 21-store chain, this was his first show said store officials would decide as in an American store, the day progressed about closing though he’s exhibited Washington-area stores. Four Up at Mitsukoshi and Seibu Fran Weissler with L&T’s Jane Elfers and Lavelle Olexa. Against the Walls in southern in Japan. Virginia were already buttoned up. “They were pretty full-out exhibitions, but this is wonderful “None of the kids have school here. It’s big time. It’s like theater,” he said of the 16-day run at today, so we might get some business,” L&T, through Sept. 28. The display includes original work on said Red, who also reported sales this the scaffolding composed of five panels called Crossing the season as running hot and cold. Century and depicting five decades of Fifth Avenue shopping: With Isabel expected to linger over Belle Epoch, Dough Boys Return, Roaring Twenties, The 1940s Washington through this morning, Red and Today. Grooms admitted having a strange fascination with Red Grooms expected all stores to be open today, the visual side of retailing. As a kid, he explained, “I was quite and his even though 17 of the 21 units were mad about mannequins. I thought women were trapped inside.” wife, Lyiane.

considered to be in Isabel’s path. ACONNABLE PHOTO BY PATRICK MCMULLAN; L&T PHOTOS LISA BY CHANG — David Moin F 14 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 The Beauty Report Lush Gains a Retail Sister

Two views of the new B Never Too Busy to be Beautiful Parfumerie.

LONDON — The founders of Lush, the U.K. beauty firm keep them to myself any longer.” sized pots of lip color spill from their containers on the that packages and sells soaps and creams like fruit and Constantine added that the move into color cosmet- makeup table and compete for space with compacts, vegetables from the local market stall, have unveiled a new ics was also a long time coming. “Even when we started kohl pots and miniature mascaras. brand — complete with color cosmetics and retail concept Lush there was always the idea of doing a makeup “We were going for the dressing table effect,” said — known as B Never Too Busy to be Beautiful Parfumerie. shop.” The demographic is a broad one, he added, as Bird. “We want people to come to this table and have The 1,000-square-foot store, which opened last week there are products ranging from incense, which costs some fun.” Prices range from $12 for a B Kohl Eyeliner at 39 Carnaby Street, has a Forties-boudoir feel. $2.80, to antique fragrance bottles, which cost $950. Pot, made and painted in Morocco, to $56 for B Compact Indeed, it’s the sort of place a Tennessee Williams hero- Constantine refers to B Parfumerie as a sister com- Foundation. Foundation ingredients include beeswax, ine might forage for a lipstick, compact or special bot- pany to Lush and said, as with Lush, there is no animal cocoa butter and carnauba, a natural skin softener. tle of perfume. The walls are covered with gilt-framed testing and only safe synthetics are used. Constantine, The 12 eau de parfums, which have names like Ass- mirrors, Chinese fans and beaded handbags, while the who trained as a trichologist, worked with Anita assin, A Thousand Kisses Deep, Cocktail, Keep it Fluffy ceiling is hung with crystal chandeliers. Roddick at the Body Shop and started up other envi- and Two Hearts Beating as One, are sold in an atomizer or There are 176 stockkeeping units, ranging from an ronmentally friendly beauty companies before founding in a bottle. Some of the fragrances have their own shower exclusive line of 12 fragrances developed by Lush co- Lush. He is well known in the U.K. for pioneering cru- gels, soaps and body sprays. founder Mark Constantine, and a full color cosmetics elty-free cosmetics. The average price for a 0.32-oz. atomizer is $21 while range created by U.K. makeup artist Rowena Bird. “Lush is more of a cosmetics grocer, selling essentials, the bottles, depending on size, range from $40 for a 0.72- There’s an element of exotica here too: Fragrances much like a supermarket would — albeit with sexier oz. bottle, to $103 for a 2-oz. bottle. come in glass bottles handmade in France while many shampoo,” he said with a laugh the day before the store Constantine said there are not immediate plans to of the eye and lip colors are packaged in Moroccan opened. “Here, we wanted an over-the-top feel. We want roll out the B Parfumerie stores. “We’ve always done boxes or bejeweled and beaded Indian pots. people to come in, touch things and get excited, down to things very slowly, and we want to see how B works in “This is a real indulgence for me,” said Constantine, the pit of their stomachs, about what they see.” London.” Lush has a mix of 200 wholly owned stores who founded Lush in 1995. “It took me five years to The merchandising is more like a souk than a cos- and joint ventures around the world, including one in develop these fragrances and they really were a labor metics store. Perfumes, scented creams and soaps Berkeley, Calif. of love. This store needed to open because I couldn’t crowd the tables and antique dressers while walnut- — Samantha Conti Eyeko’s Portable Counter LONDON — As far as beauty brainstorms go, a at current exchange. mobile makeup counter has to be a first. There is also fragranced Glitter Body Lotion Eyeko cosmetics has teamed up with Self- and mascara in squeezable silver tubes both at ridges to launch a cosmetics cart that travels $15.50, or 9.95 pounds, a non-greasy concealer at around the store answering customers’ pages. $12.50, or 8 pounds, and Felt Lip Pen, a liquid “It stemmed from the idea that women are gloss stain for lips priced at $12.50, or 7.95 pounds. too busy to wonder around beauty halls,” said On board, the products are displayed on two Nina Leykind, who founded Eyeko with her hus- cog-like plastic discs that rotate together like a band and business partner, Max. “With the cart, finely tuned watch. There’s also a rotating tester it’s making life and shopping easy because we area, drawers underneath for cotton balls and come to you.” cleansing wipes and an additional pull-out shelf Customers can page the cart, which launches for extra “play” room. Below, all the stock is Monday at the Oxford Street store, for free from stored behind corrugated sliding doors. Most the nearest cashier’s desk by dialing 53-12562. “If importantly, the cart stands on four lockable someone’s after a lipstick to match a dress on the wheels, for a steady application. second floor, they can page us and we’re there in For customers in need of a quick refresh- minutes,” said Leykind. “It saves customers the ment, Glaceau fruit mineral water from New time and effort of having to take a dress to the York is available, complete with plastic cups ground floor just to match the right eye color.” stacked neatly in a dispenser and a foldable The pink and silver cart, made from MDF chair attached to the side of the cart to take the and designed by Craig Wick at Pointer Design, weight off weary feet. measures 6.5 feet high by 3.3 feet long and is In addition to products and refreshments, the small enough to fit into Selfridges’ lifts, but big cart also offers free mini makeovers. “We want- enough to carry the entire Eyeko collection. ed it to be practical, but fun, too. It’s great having There’s everything from Fat Balm, a lip customers smell and try everything and for them balm and gloss in strawberry, raspberry and to get really involved; it’s what Eyeko is about.” mint for $12.50, or 7.95 pounds, to Make Out, a The Eyeko cart will roll out to other Self- pocket-sized palette containing two eye shad- ridges stores in England — Trafford Centre and ows, a blusher, lip gloss and double-ended Exchange Square in Manchester and the new sponge applicator for $23.50, or 15 pounds, Birmingham store, later this year. with dollar figures converted from the pound — Sarah Harris WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 15 Cosmetics Caught in Margin Squeeze NEW YORK — Mass market beauty executives are on discontinued items — and a lack of blockbuster hits, Mottus agreed and said the blockbusters are so full of caught in a vise that is squeezing the life out of gross has chopped into profits. Several buyers said there are products that shoppers don’t need replenishment. margins. new terms for monies given for discontinued merchan- Even chains that don’t want to see prices and profits Cosmetics, once one of the most robust gross margin dise. Rather than using a 50 percent off strategy, for ex- plummet said they can’t help but try to keep up with producers in mass market stores, ample, and L’Oréal Wal-Mart. “Wal-Mart continues to erode price points is losing its profit luster as con- have dropped prices to $1.99 and and no one can recover from this,” said one buyer. sumer demand for value drives 99 cents on discontinued items, One solution served up by Mottus is for mass mer- prices down. Margins that once Critical Mass said one buyer for a large chain. chants to polish up skin care departments. “The mar- soared past the 35 percent mark By Faye Brookman , which cut prices on many gins are in skin care and the category can distinguish for many retailers have dipped of its items, has gained at the ex- one chain from another.” under 30 percent. pense of Maybelline and Cover Another option is to offer exclusive lines, such as To deliver low prices, retailers are being forced to Girl — but at what cost to the overall business, buyers CVS’ Lumene or private labels. “The drug channel has add more budget lines to the merchandise assortment wondered. such an opportunity to go after department and spe- to keep shoppers from fleeing to dollar stores or the There’s also been a rise in promotional activity and cialty store consumers. It’s a shame to see pricing wars neighborhood Wal-Mart. beauty blockbuster kits. “These promotions do take start in beauty categories,” concluded one leading Even moderately priced brands sold at mass stores consumers out of the marketplace,” said Brauner. chain drug source. are offering more buy one, get one free deals to catch the atten- tion of bargain-hungry shoppers. And, price cuts taken by Revlon earlier this year had a negative impact on Maybelline and Cover Girl, buyers said (see related story on page 16). Merchants who are demand- ing terms such as guaranteed sales, in turn, are churning sup-

pliers. “You really have to work www.clarins.com with retailers — and we do — to get in as a new or small compa- ny,” said Isaac Gindi, designer for Icebox Inc. With this as a backdrop, mass market cosmetics sales continue to lag. According to Information Resources Inc., for the 52 weeks ended Aug. 10, food, drug and discount cosmetics sales are Look as young down 0.2 percent to $2.89 billion. as you feel. More painful is the fact that units are also slumping, declin- I do! ing 3.1 percent to 692 million. “The margins are not in makeup,” declared Allan Mottus, an industry consultant. “Retailers have to give con- sumers what they want and they want value.” Cost consciousness paved the way for a barrage of new budget lines vying for shelf space. Many chains feel they have to join rather than fight the dollar re- tailers and plan to offer brands for a buck or less. Even Maybelline plans to offer a budget nail color called Colorama. There are those, however, who fear lower prices will put more of a strain on gross mar- The ultimate, intensive beauty treatment gins. “We aren’t jumping on the dollar brands at all,” said one Super for mature skin challenged by natural hormonal top drugstore executive. “We changes. It gives tired, lackluster skin a boost of would much prefer to see quali- Restorative concentrated radiance and vitality. ty and pricing go higher.” Offering budget brands doesn’t Isoflavones. necessarily equate to depressed Serum For the first time, a beauty treatment is formulated margins, said Howard Brauner, with plant extracts containing Isoflavones, which the marketing president at have proven revitalizing properties. Wrinkles are Cosmetics 2000. His firm just minimized and skin is visibly smoother. launched a 99 cent lipstick line called Hugs and Kisses. “It can be NEW Spectacular results* up to... done for the same profit when 81% reduction in the depth of fine lines and wrinkles. done right and in the fastest-sell- Replenishes 79% improvement in skin tone. ing items such as lipsticks,” he Lifts 75% of users noticed increased skin luminosity. said. “You aren’t trading a cus- 69% improvement in skin firmness. tomer down because you are Renews going to lose them if you don’t have these price points,” he coun- tered. And, with many chains ask- ing for guaranteed sales, the risk is removed. Brauner does fear, *Confirmed after 6 weeks of use. however, that the proliferation of Patented Formula. Dermatologist Tested. budget brands could “saturate the market.” Many compare the influx of budget brands to the horde of teen cosmetics that infil- trated the landscape over the past five years. Beyond the budget brigade, retailers said a combination of plummeting prices — especially 16 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 The Beauty Report Leadership Up for Grabs in Mass Color TOP NOTES NEW YORK — It’s back to a three-way horse race in color cos- gives the brand some direction.” Another retailer said she was MARKWINS NAMES A GM: Markwins metics. “blown away” by the Maybelline presentation, which she de- Beauty Products has hired Jim And it could become an increasingly hot contest as each of scribed as a bit more funky and youthful. One cautioned that the Koeppl as senior vice president and the three leading brands gears up for the debut of their spring changes could be good as long as the brand doesn’t get “too edgy.” general manager. Markwins Beauty is programs, which typically begin in January. Part of the Maybelline plan also includes bringing in its a division of Markwins International Revlon’s retail sales gains in the past 10 months have put it Colorama nail color line, which is packaged in smaller bottles than and handles the recently acquired back in the heat with Maybelline and Cover Girl. The last time the a typical polish and will be at the bargain retail price of $1.99. Wet ‘n’ Wild, Black Radiance, Tropez three were neck and neck for market-share leadership was in the Revlon is sticking to its plans to stress its fashionable her- and Artmatic brands. Koeppl, first quarter of 2000 when Maybelline, with climbing sales, broke itage, and continues to embark on multidirectional marketing formerly general manager of NYC from its longstanding third-place ranking and strode into first. plans, or a 360-degree approach. For holiday it is playing up its New York Color at Del Laboratories, Today, like then, there is less than one percentage point dif- Red Rocks collection and in spring will put a big push behind a will be responsible for the sales and ference among the three. tie-in with the “Dirty Dancing: marketing strategies of the Markwins According to Information Havana Nights” film. Despite its Beauty brands. Resources Inc., for the 52 weeks assent at retail, Revlon’s future ended Aug. 10, Maybelline pos- is still clouded by a slippery fi- PRETTY PARTY: Diane von sessed a 16.3 percent market nancial structure that serves a Furstenberg infused the atrium of share, Revlon held a 15.5 percent $1.7-plus billion debt. Henri Bendel with a bit of share followed by Cover Girl Cover Girl is expected to con- Tuesday night — complete with with a 15.4 percent share. The tinue the course that has kept it smoke machine, dimmed red data does not include Wal-Mart. in a leadership position — com- lighting and a floor packed shoulder- Revlon’s fragile comeback, bining new formula technolo- to-shoulder — in celebration of the however, has not elevated the gies with on-target shade ranges, official launch of her beauty category, which has been losing while maintaining the brand’s collection. Helping to make merry sales and profit margins. (See fresh, healthy and natural were , Bianca Jagger, Pat related story, page 15.) Mass image. Its marketing plans are Cleveland and Rick and Kathy color sales are down 0.2 percent increasingly targeting messages Hilton. Bendel’s held a soft launch to $2.89 billion for the year, for niche consumer groups. for the cosmetics and fragrance while unit sales have shrunk 3.1 Meanwhile, other brands are collection in August. percent. Maybelline’s sales have gearing up to grab a bigger eased 0.9 percent to $471.3 mil- piece of the pie next year. SCENT SOIREE: Symrise feted lion with a 2.7 percent drop in Neutrogena is coming out Fabrizio Ferri and a recently unit sales. Cover Girl’s dollar Next year Maybelline will be renamed Maybelline New York in the U.S., too. with a new cosmetics collection launched ad campaign he shot for sales inched up 1.1 percent to that is intended to expand its the fragrance supplier during a party $447.7 million, but units have slipped 3.4 percent. At Revlon, multicultural appeal with shades for Latina and Mediterranean held at Industria in Manhattan’s there has been a 4.9 percent gain in dollars — to $450.2 million — skin tones, according to a company spokeswoman. The brand is Meatpacking District Tuesday night. and a jump in unit sales of 5.2 percent. also “working with industry experts to establish breakthrough Ferri said the event, which featured But with distinct marketing efforts being put forth by each of universal shading appropriate for all skin tones.” The company 12 photographs, including new and the leading brands, along with news from smaller existing play- declined to offer more details. archival works, was his first ers and newcomers, market shares could easily shift. Del Laboratories is planning to tweak its new Sally Hansen exhibition — outside the world of Maybelline will be taking itself in a new direction in the U.S. Healing Beauty planogram and introduce Fast and Flawless fashion magazines, that is. Symrise next year, as it changes its name to Maybelline New York, severing Skin Brighteners capitalizing on the its top-selling Fast and created a finished fragrance inspired its Memphis roots for good. Globally, Maybelline has been using Flawless makeup. It also has a new lineup of leg makeup. by each photo and displayed them New York in its title for several years. Along with the name Then bringing some catwalk glamour to the mix, Iman is expect- as well. The scents and shots were change, retailers say, Maybelline plans to spice up its image with ed to introduce a cosmetics line to the mass market next year. Some matched by Symrise’s Maurice an expanded product selection and by better defining its shade retailers have already been sent sample products. The Roucel, who also created a fragrance range within its planogram. The moves are expected to make the already has products selling in specialty and department stores in- called “7th” to recognize 7th on brand appealing to a wider range of consumers. One retailer com- cluding Carson Pirie Scott, Cosmetics Plus and J.C. Penney. Sixth’s 10-year anniversary. mented that the shift “brings a spirit to Maybelline and I think it — Laura Klepacki BRIGHT BEAUTY: In support of Ovarian Cancer Awareness month this month, Delux Beauty is launching an educational and fund- DreamBall Raises Record $2.5M raising program with beauty.com. Ten percent of retail sales of its new NEW YORK — The 19th Annual DreamBall award ceremony was simple line, Junior Duos, a velvety liquid and brief. But it was heartfelt and the result was a record-breaking $2.5 cheek color and a coordinating million donation to the American Cancer Society benefiting the Look ultrabrilliant lip gloss in one dual- Good…Feel Better program. ended tube, will go toward ovarian At the Waldorf Astoria Wednesday night, the beauty industry gathered cancer research. Junior Duos, which to honor Robert Mettler, chairman and chief executive officer of Macy’s accent Delux Beauty’s fall and West and Jean-Paul Agon, president and chief executive officer of L’Oréal holiday looks, come in four shades, USA, for their respective support of cancer research and support pro- Twinkly Pink, Nibbly Nude, Juicy grams including Look Good…Feel Better, the national initiative of the Rose and Flirty Berry and are Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association Foundation, the American available through September at Cancer Society and the National Cosmetology Association. The program Darla Humrich and Jean-Paul Agon beauty.com. helps cancer patients use cosmetics and other beauty treatments to im- prove their self-esteem after suffering the side effects of chemotherapy HOLIDAY DRESSING: Bare Escentuals and radiation treatments. is putting its Perfect Black Dress in Cancer survivor Darla Humrich, honored as “Dream Girl 2003,” re- a gift box for the holidays. A new gift called what it was like at age 38 to look in the mirror and see no hair and set will be offered this season no eyebrows, and even the initial resentment that she was the youngest featuring body products. A $32 kit woman in her Look Good…Feel Better class. However, the anger melted Robin Burns includes Perfect Black Dress Silky quickly, she told the crowd of beauty industry executives, when each of and husband Body Cleanser, a Perfect Black Dress the women was presented with a bag of cosmetics goodies and began try- Dennis McNeill. Body Hugging Moisture body lotion ing on wigs. “We started giggling and carrying on like school girls at a and Perfect Black Dress Shimmering slumber party.” Powder Puff, a sparkling body L’Oréal’s Agon has spent time with cancer patients at Look powder with a puff in an engraved Good…Feel Better sessions. “It was one of the most moving experiences tin. It will be available beginning in I have had in my professional life,” he said. Mettler remarked that his November. family, like too many others, also has been touched by cancer. Four of his Andie MacDowell and Tomiko Fraser father’s five sisters died of the disease. SLATKIN HOLIDAY: Slatkin & Co. is Stephen Spero, president of the Eastern Division Board of Directors of launching a holiday candle duo the American Cancer Society, called the festivities a “landmark event,” called Templeton within its C.Z. and used the occasion to reveal plans from the ACS to construct a new Guest brand. The company, which is facility called Hope Lodge, a 75-room hotel in Manhattan where families Guest’s home fragrance licensee, will of cancer patients being treated here can stay for free. A community re- introduce small and large versions of source center also is planned that will provide information on quality-of- Templeton, priced at $34 and $65, life programs. The initiatives will get under way next year. respectively. Slatkin is also After the presentations, the evening gave way to frivolity with dinner launching a holiday collection of and dancing. And L’Oréal brought in several of its models to help draw nine items under its eponymous attention to the cause. Andie MacDowell, Mena Suvari, Tomiko Fraser brand. Prices in the assortment of and Devon Aoki were among those lending their glamour. Mena Suvari candles and potpourri range from — L.K. Stephen Spero and Robert Mettler $11 to $48. PHOTOS BY DAN D’ERRICO PHOTOS BY INNOVATION OFF THE WALL poration. revlon.com ©2003 Revlon Consumer Products Cor ©2003 Revlon

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• ColorStay® Overtime™ Lash Tint, for up to 3 days of dark, natural-looking lashes. 18 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 The Beauty Report A Talk With Shu Uemura By Julie Naughton Shu Uemura at work last week. NEW YORK — Shu Uemura was one of the seminal leaders of the modern makeup artist movement, but he is shy about taking credit. “I’m just one makeup artist — I think the current industry came about as a result of supply and demand,” he said modestly. “But to combine art and pleasing people — it is one of the highest forms of gratification.” The 75-year-old Uemura, casually clad in a white button-down shirt, blue jeans, a black sports jacket and black running shoes, said when he started in the industry as a Hollywood makeup artist in the mid-Fifties, “being a makeup artist wasn’t a profession. I always wondered if I’d be able to be self-sufficient doing it.” In fact, Uemura’s alternative career options included running a cleaning service. “Not that I’d be the one pushing the mop, but a clean, happy environment helps contribute to happy living,” he said. Becoming a fashion designer or an interior designer were other options. “I wanted to be a pioneer — to do something different,” he said. And does he feel he’s succeeded? The perfectionistic Uemura said he’s still not quite satisfied with a few formulations, and he’d like his next act to include bringing nutritional supplements to his home turf of Japan. “There are so many nutritional supplement options in the U.S., but few in Japan,” he said. “I’d like to Inspecting change that. Beauty has to start the effect. from the inside out.” And while he’s earned the right to kick back and enjoy his successes, Uemura isn’t planning on doing so anytime soon. “To be honest, the business is like a relay race,” Uemura said. “You have to have think she’s an actress here — and she said she loved my someone to pass the baton cleansing oils. So many years later she still buys them to. And my son is a here. Her name is Lauren Bacall. Do you know of her? businessman — he doesn’t She’s famous, isn’t she?” he said in all earnestness. touch faces. At least not for “We add things to our skin care to take care of our skin money.” as it ages, but most important is what we take away,” said Uemura, who was in town this Uemura. “We must use products that eliminate toxins, week for the New York ready-to- ridding them like junk mail, before we can add anything wear collections — of which his else. The skin can also provide for itself, rejuvenate, after company is the official makeup sponsor you’ve subtracted the negatives.” — also didn’t hesitate to weigh in on the These days Uemura is perhaps best known in the U.S. makeup coming down the runways. Overall, he’s of the for top-of-the-line brushes and color. “People always tell opinion that makeup for the shows is pure theater. me that they love my brushes and that they have had the “You are not working with a blank canvas — you are same ones for decades. On the one hand, I’m very working with someone’s face,” he said. “Even when you flattered, and I always thank them graciously. But I’m are trying to be daring and creative, you need to find running a business here,” he laughed. “They should something that looks pretty to the majority. I look at what replace them. I am often praised for my brushes, but I am some of the makeup artists are doing [for the shows] now not the Fuller Brush Co. — I want to be praised for my and there seems to be a desire to shock, rather than to cleansing oil. And I get the greatest satisfaction being prettify. I think makeup should be simple, yet rich. praised for my color. I heard the Rouge 4 Lipstick does Makeup for the collections is very formal, very stylized.” very well here, and that makes me happy.” Still, he says, “I find it gratifying that the makeup artists Uemura is also in the process of revising his are reaching out like that.” As he said when his company foundation line. “The two most important elements of signed the sponsorship deal in 2002: “Fashion Week is a foundation are texture and color,” said Uemura. “You showcase of creative endeavors from both the established have to address the skin first, then how color reacts to the and emerging talent that New York has to offer. Essentially, light, so that you don’t end up with an unnatural finish.” Fashion Week is a birth and evolution of new ideas; since Uemura’s passion for perfection in his products has the beginning of my career I have always been interested in been enhanced since he began partnering with L’Oréal. In the birth of some new idea. I then strive for the quality and November 2000, Uemura inked a deal that gave a 35 authenticity that will shape that idea into a product or tool.” percent stake in Uemura’s company to L’Oréal’s Japanese But does show makeup create trends for average A Shu Uemura cosmetics bag designed for a recent art opening. subsidiary, Nihon L’Oréal K.K., making L’Oréal the second women to follow? Uemura doesn’t think so. “Makeup at biggest shareholder in the family-owned group. The deal fashion shows reflects the identity of the designer,” he “Anyone who cares about makeup, or is even remotely also gave Uemura, known for being a perfectionist in said. “Designers are in a constant search for identity — a interested in makeup, needs to work with their skin,” said regard to product formulations, access to L’Oréal’s makeup artist serves to follow and enhance. Makeup at Uemura. “Even the best color does not look good if you do research and development resources and the group's the shows is for the designer’s ego identification, or to not have good skin. If you have good skin, then color is worldwide distribution network. make his product look better. Women should not look at simply gilding the lily.” Also as a result of the deal, L’Oréal took control of Shu the shows so literally. The average woman should take the His key skin care product is a cleansing oil he’s been Uemura’s international business, including the rights to spirit of the show and just use that. Makeup is like a touting since the early Seventies. However, Uemura the brand outside of Japan, and has increased its presence restaurant menu — you can order à la carte.” doesn’t take the credit for discovering the oil. “It actually globally to more than 15 countries, including the U.S. and As far as upcoming makeup trends for real women, “I was based on a product given to me by Ben Lane, another France. The brand’s freestanding boutiques include a don’t think that the drama of makeup will continue [in the makeup artist, during our days in Hollywood,” said SoHo location in Manhattan, and a door on Paris’s coming years],” said Uemura. “We’ve reached a watershed Uemura. After returning to Japan, Uemura began Boulevard St. Germain. mark. A more natural look will come back — those beigy- importing the oil, then gained the rights to it. Around 1970, L’Oréal also provided a point of inspiration for brown shades, perhaps with a one-feature focus again. he began tinkering with the formula, which has been Uemura’s spring 2004 color cosmetics collection when Perhaps focusing on the eyes and neutralizing the rest of the continually revised over the years as new ingredients L’Oréal executives took Uemura to Thailand recently. “My face, or focusing on the lips, and neutralizing the rest of the have become available. winter collection was all about restraint, but this new face. I challenge myself periodically to do the perfect natural “I am preaching gospel to the heathens about cleansing collection is all about effervescent, very bright, positive face, but I haven’t yet reached that point of satisfaction.” oil,” he said. “I’ve converted the Japanese — now my colors,” he said. “The vividness of the colors in Thailand Another item on Uemura’s wish list: increasing mission is to change things here in the U.S. Think of it as inspired me. I don’t know if it was the Buddhist influence, awareness for his skin care business in the U.S., where the good oil that’s neutralizing bad oil. The best way to remove but the country was peaceful and gentle, and the colors brand is available at Barneys New York, Bergdorf one thing is often with the same thing.” were overflowing in their beauty.” The new color Goodman, Takashimaya, and select Nordstrom Of course, there are a few Americans who have already collection was previewed backstage at runway shows this doors, as well as its own boutique. been converted. “I met this woman in Paris years ago — I week and will be on counter next March. Your cross-selling opportunities just got a whole lot brighter.

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Emily is wearing Bright Eyes® Mascara in Black, Bright Eyes® Color Cream Shadows in Golden Gleam, Pink Glow and Lilac Lustre, and Bright Eyes® Defining Color DuoTM Eyeliner in Plum & Pink. 20 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 The HBA Report Freemans Brand Back in Family SNIPPETS Continued from page 2 sales are now below $20 million. market distribution and bring back BOARDROOM SHUFFLE: Wella has named several new the family to watch their namesake But the Freemans have big to life the brand’s well-respected members to its supervisory board, including Martin J. flounder. plans to breathe new life into the consumer recognition. Freeman Nüchtern, Rainer Henes, Dieter B. Judith, Schwalbach “This was an emotional purchase business. While it’s too early to was founded on the concept of hair am Taunus and Dr. Gerhard Wirth. The supervisory board rather than a strategic purchase. We state firm future operational pro- care, but as it grew, skin, body and also elected Dr. Wirth as its new chairman. The new are excited to have our old business cedures, Freeman said he does bath became a meaningful part of members replace four previous representatives on the back where it belongs,” Mark Free- “have some thoughts of how to the business, too. Past operators supervisory board who resigned in connection with the man said. acquisition of the majority voting rights of Wella by In 1998, when Dial acquired Free- Procter & Gamble. man Cosmetics, the hair and bath This was an emotional purchase rather brand was slated to generate nearly SHOW THOSE LEGS: $76 million in sales that year. But than“ a strategic purchase. We are Aussie Nad’s made it under the new ownership, sales easy for models at nosedived. In 2001, the Dial Corp. excited to have our old business back Betsey Johnson to sport sold off its specialty personal care slick, hair-free legs. division, which included the where it belongs. Company reps made a Freeman business, to investment backstage outpost at firm The Hathi Group. At the time, ” — Mark Freeman the designer’s Monday Freeman sales had fallen to below show, waxing models’ $30 million. reposition the business. We are have basically discontinued all of legs and explaining to While The Hathi Group made going to re-create the magic that hair care. We see an incredible them the ease and genuine efforts to revive Freeman we had prior to the sale to Dial, opportunity there and in natural convenience of at-home — an image and product overhaul and we are putting together a products overall.” waxing. Aussie Nad’s immediately ensued — the brand strategic brand positioning imme- The Hathi Group’s other hold- kits and custom-made failed to regain its former luster. diately. The brand does not have ings, which include Sarah Michaels wax strips — sporting “I The Hathi Group ultimately filed full distribution, and we will bring and San Francisco Soap, are report- Love BJ” on them — for bankruptcy in May. Freeman’s that back into all channels of mass edly still for sale. were given away in goody bags for show Aussie Nad’s at Betsey Johnson. attendees.

FIVE-STAR SPA: Gloss Day Spa, which opened on 73rd street in Manhattan Monday, is hoping to become the star Organic Beauty Site Adds Spice to Web of the Upper East Side. Gloss’ marquis treatment, the $400 Five-Star Facial, is based on an amino acid-based, By Andrea M.G. Nagel the same strict guidelines, but also are fortified with antiaging treatment developed by Lucrèce, a California- herbal and mineral preparations and specially pre- based brand Gloss expects to carry exclusively on the East NEW YORK — Beauty is showing its organic side with pared composts via the soil in which they are grown, Coast for eight months. Gloss founder Dana Minkin, whose Saffronrouge.com, reportedly the first Web site dedicat- making for richer soil and a more vital plant. Also sister, Lori Minkin, acts as spa director, said women over ed to selling organic and biodynamic beauty items. under the biodynamic farming process is the all-impor- the age of 50 — the Five-Star treatment’s target audience Founders want the site to serve as a place that sorts out tant spiritual element to farming, which takes into con- — traveled out West for the facial hitherto. Gloss’ 850- the deceptive clutter of products that claim to be either sideration “the cosmos and the moon cycles when square-foot, second-floor interior features four treatment biodynamic or organic, but really aren’t. planting and harvesting. This,” said Jeff, “translates rooms, where a variety of massages and facials are also Site founders, husband and wife team Jeff and Kirstin into better crops which means better skin care items.” offered for men and youth, including the $135 Twinkle, Binder, claim the site is also the first beauty e-commerce Jeff has been involved in alternative health care for Twinkle, Little Star acne treatment. The spa could exceed company with full American and Canadian distribution, more than a decade, with a focus on vibrational medi- $1 million in first-year revenues. one that has warehouses in Guelph, Ontario — where cine, a concept that is based on physics and vibration. the company is based — and in Haverhill, Mass. Each He was privately trained by a number of mentors and SALLY’S ARTSY SIDE: In Style magazine last night threw a operates distribution in their party for the opening of celebrity stylist Sally respective currencies to allevi- Hershberger’s new salon in the Meatpacking District, ate customs and exorbitant taxes located at 423-425 West 14th Street. The 1,800-square- to customers. foot salon, in addition to offering $600 hair services, also While the site, which was holds one-of-a-kind pieces of art. Decorations include a named after their daughter, giant mug shot of Jane Fonda (taken from her more Saffron, officially launched in politically active days) silk-screened by Russell Young, a June 2002 and entered the U.S. Bert Stern piece featuring Marilyn Monroe and a portrait in December of that year, of taken by the late Herb Ritts. Saffronrouge is now making an effort to build up the number of OPERATION REJUVENATION: Plastic surgeon Dr. Steven J. lines it carries. Currently, the site Pearlman has tapped James Kivior of the now defunct offers three organic lines, Dr. Prema Nolita spa to lead his aesthetics support division. Hauschka, Weleda and Anika Pearlman believes facial massage helps reduce face Aroma, which offer everything swelling, revealing a true and accurate canvas prior to facial from Calendula toothpaste surgery. Kivior has developed an all-inclusive, 80-minute ($4.60), lipstick ($21.50) and mas- program called Operation Rejuvenation, which includes bits sage oil ($14.59). But by the end of of a facial, microdermabrasion, hot-stone massage and a 2003, four more are expected to foot salt scrub. The relaxation journey costs $120 and is be added, including Primavera available now at Pearlman’s 521 Park Avenue office. Life, Juice Beauty and Lavera. More aggressive plans are in the MIDTOWN THREAD: Shobha Tumala is opening a second works for 2004 as the Binders location, this time in Midtown, for her natural hair expect to add five additional removal treatments. The new 14th-floor location, on 595 lines by yearend. Industry Madison at 57th Street, aims to offer the working girl and sources expect Saffronrouge to socialite a convenient alternative to Tumala’s SoHo generate as much as $5 million in Saffronrouge.com’s home page. flagship. “We did some mini research and found that our sales by the end of 2004. die-hards were traveling here every two weeks. They said The number of lines Saffronrouge can offer is limit- has taught holistic health professionals in Brazil, that if we were more conveniently located their friends ed: the Binders said they only know of 25 businesses Canada, England and Belgium. Jeff handles the busi- would come, too.” The salon opens Sept. 30 and offers that make and market high-quality organic beauty prod- ness side of the Web site, and is responsible for creat- threading, sugar waxing and all-natural wax treatments. ucts in the world that qualify to be sold on Saffronrouge. ing and implementing its business systems. In turn, the site is strict in what in carries. It does not While the service the Binders offer is niche, Jeff rec- FACE IT: Dermalogica has designed a new “level” system carry products that label themselves natural, for exam- ognizes that the organic market “is an area that is very of exfoliation, one that prescribes and administers ple, since generally that only means that the product much in demand.” The organic personal care industry, exfoliation in a scientific way. The company’s newest contains natural ingredients, but could also contain which includes everything from cosmetics to body care product, Exfoliation Accelerator, served as the catalyst for synthetic fragrance and lathering agents, which are not to toothpaste, has a 42 percent per year growth rate, he the exfoliation system, which has been designed to be natural. Products with organic certification usually sig- said. The natural products industry was worth $34 bil- used by itself, as well as with Dermalogica’s other nal to the Binders that they may make the grade to get lion in 2002, with $4.6 billion of those sales generated products. The low pH concentrate contains lactic acid, on Saffronrouge, but Kirstin, who was trained in phy- from organic products, including food, Jeff added. papaya juice enzymes, lemon juice, olive leaf extract and totherapy at The University of Wales in England, evalu- To build business for the remainder of the year, bacillus ferment, a source of bacterial protease enzymes ates products beyond the highly regarded stamp. Saffronrouge is advertising online and currently is to loosen cell cohesion, and is used in various amounts Organic items, the Binders said, are grown free of forging relationships with existing online companies. based on skin type and which product with which it will synthetic pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers. Details will be revealed in the first quarter of 2004, be combined. The system is for professional use only and Biodynamic items, on the other hand, are grown under Jeff said. is available at spas beginning this month. 2003 Achiever Awards LEGENDS + LEADERS Cosmetic Executive Women is proud to honor ten women with a passion for beauty. Women who love what they are doing and who never lose sight of who they are. The beauty industry is an industry of inspiration. Be inspired. Join CEW on October 31 for the annual Achiever Awards Luncheon at the Waldorf-Astoria, as we salute ten of our brightest stars.

Robin Coe-Hutshing Founder, Owner & Creative Director STUDIO at Fred Segal

Carol Hamilton President & General Manager 2003 Achiever Awards Luncheon L’Oréal Paris LEGENDS + LEADERS Sonia Kashuk October 31, 2003, Waldorf-Astoria Makeup Artist & Creator Sonia Kashuk Professional Makeup at Target Register online! www.cew.org/events Heidi Manheimer President for U.S. Operations For inquires, email [email protected] Shiseido Cosmetics (America) Ltd.

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Drs. Katie Rodan & Kathy Fields Dermatologists & Creators Rodan & Fields and Proactiv® Solution

Chantal Roos Chairman & Chief Executive Officer YSL Beaute

Eunice Valdivia President Clinique North America a member of

Inner Beauty Award Honoree: Evelyn Lauder Senior Corporate Vice President The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. Presented by: lSenator Hillary Rodham Clinton 22 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 Apparel Helps Nike Beat Forecasts Media/Advertising By Dan Burrows ry. Equally important, we again percent of net U.S. revenues, demonstrated our commitment footwear declined 5 percent to NEW YORK — Robust apparel to managing our business for $822.4 million and equipment sales and greater efficiency helped long-term profitability, achieving fell 4 percent to $85 million. MEMO PAD propel Nike Inc. to strong bottom- the highest gross margin per- Overall, U.S. revenues regressed line gains in the first quarter. centage in our recent history.” 2 percent to $1.25 billion from COMING (BACK) TO AMERICA: Tina For the three months ended Greater efficiency was made $1.28 billion a year ago. Brown doesn’t appear to have any Aug. 31, the Beaverton, Ore.- evident by a 160 basis-point ex- However, that was more than plans to go to Hollywood; instead based footwear and apparel titan pansion in gross margin to 43 offset by growth in Nike’s sec- she’s been spending time in reported net earnings of $261.2 percent of sales from 41.4 per- ond-largest region — comprising Washington, D.C. According to million, or 98 cents a diluted cent a year ago, while selling, Europe, the Middle East and sources, Brown was in D.C. on share, which easily eclipsed the general and administrative costs Africa — where net sales soared Wednesday in advanced Wall Street forecast by 10 cents. retreated 10 basis points to 28.7 17 percent to $1.01 billion from negotiations with the Washington By comparison, last year Nike percent of sales. $869.3 million last year. Of that, Post, working out a deal to write a recorded a net loss of $48.9 mil- Commenting on the gross apparel gained 10 percent to column for the paper’s Style lion, or 99 cents. Excluding an margin increase in a research $341.9 million, which represent- section. If a deal goes through, as accounting change in the prior- note to investors, Goldman Sachs ed more than a third, or 33.7 per- expected, Brown no longer would year period, Nike’s profits would analyst Margaret Mager wrote: cent, of total sales in the region. write for the Times of London, have increased 20.3 percent from “Gross margin should continue In the Asia Pacific sector, ap- where she had a one-year contract $217.2 million, or 81 cents. to improve as Nike derives bene- parel outperformed all other starting last fall, and The Total revenues grew 8.2 per- fits from its supply chain man- categories with a 15 percent im- Washington Post would gain cent to $3.02 billion from $2.8 agement projects such as lever- provement to $113.3 million, ac- syndication rights over the column. billion a year ago with global ap- aging distribution overhead, counting for 32.5 percent of total Salon.com, which also has been parel sales chipping in an 8.3 lower product costs and consoli- revenues of $348.3 million. In running it, is expected to continue percent improvement to $841.1 dated purchasing of materials. the Americas excluding the U.S., doing so. million from $776.9 million last Currency is also contributing to apparel increased 2 percent to The move makes a certain year. As such, apparel sales ac- stronger gross margin.” $39.4 million, which was more amount of sense because it will counted for 27.8 percent of In other bullish news, world- than a quarter, or 25.6 percent, give Brown a real American is reportedly in talks Nike’s net revenue. wide future orders scheduled of $153.7 million in total sales. market, which means a lot more with The Washington Post. “Results reflect another great for delivery from September Nike released its earnings re- readers. It also will make her quarter in which global brand through January rose 10.5 per- port after the markets closed primary market the U.S. and seems she and her team spent that strength and superior product, cent to $3.7 billion from the cor- Thursday, but earlier in the day, Europe a secondary concern. time cutting and pasting six months’ combined with a favorable cur- responding period a year ago. investors traded up the firm’s “She’ll be a very good addition worth of Lucky issues together. rency exchange environment, By geographic region, sales shares 13 cents, or 0.2 percent, to the paper, though it remains to Norwood, the former editor of drove worldwide business,” said gains overseas offset declines in to close at $57.25 on the New be seen how parochial Washington Mademoiselle, and Cynthia Lewis, chief executive officer Phil the U.S., where only apparel pro- York Stock Exchange. In after- will take to her,” said one source. the former publisher of Harper’s Knight in a statement. “Sales duced a revenue increase. While hours trading, they hit a new 52- “She’s very audacious and the town Bazaar, have been making the topped $3 billion, the highest sin- domestic apparel sales climbed 5 week high of $60. The 52-week could use that. And the fact that rounds to advertisers with gle-quarter revenue in our histo- percent to $346.5 million, or 27.6 low is $38.53, reached on Oct. 10. she’s writing from a place other prototypes of their brainchild, than Washington is very helpful to named Scoop. It looks familiar. them, because the paper — “When I looked at it, I was a particularly the Style section — is notch below ‘aghast’ at the blatant very Washington-centric save for borrowing” from Lucky, said a [television critic] Tom Shales.” potential advertiser who had seen a Steffe Seeking Minority Investor Calls to the Style section went prototype. “It looked interesting. unreturned Thursday. Brown declined It’s definitely a magazine I would By Joshua Greene —was released to potential in- footwear and watches. comment. — Jacob Bernstein pick up and look at. But when I saw vestors about three weeks ago. The news that L.F. Brands is it my mouth opened: ‘Huh? This is NEW YORK — While fashion ed- “We’re looking for a minority looking for investors for the NAMING RIGHTS: Lauren Weisberger what it is?’” itors at Cynthia Steffe’s show investor and someone who has Steffe line comes about a week may be publishing’s rookie of the The prototype had been Wednesday sat in the front row business and distribution capaci- after popular contemporary year (despite a barrage of bad assembled in part from images thinking of spring story ideas, ty in Asia or Europe,” said Short. brand Theory was acquired by reviews) but can the writer of “The borrowed from other magazines, there was another type of ob- “Several interested parties [in its Japanese licensee, Link Devil Wears Prada” become a this person said, many of which server in the audience. Cynthia Steffe] were at the show.” International, and third-party franchise author? Simon & were recognizably Lucky. Even more According to executives at Currently, Cynthia Steffe, firm, Fast Retailing Co. Ltd., a Schuster thinks so — it bought the surprising was how similar the Steffe’s parent firm L.F. Brands, whose business is up about 50 multibillion-dollar retailer. rights to Weisberger’s second book architecture seemed — the back of the company is looking for in- percent over 2002, is not distrib- This month, L.F. Brands en- last month after a heated auction the book had a rotating, local vestors to purchase a minority uted in Europe or Asia. tered into a licensing agreement that netted her an advance worth shopping guide followed by pages stake in the Steffe brand. It also Late last year, however, with Silver Lake Inc. to produce more than $1 million. of Scoop-exclusive bargains. Those wants to broaden the contempo- Steffe licensed its Canadian and distribute the David Warren But writing what she knows is sections are in the same spot and rary line’s product range through production and distribution to and D.W. Studio dress lines and out of the question — alarms will same order in Lucky. licensed goods, said L.F. Brands’ Montreal-based DBA Apparel. the Reggio and Rimini evening- sound if she comes near 4 Times “And where Lucky has the Post- chief executive W. John Short. Steffe merchandise is currently wear brands. The four labels Square again — so what could she it notes you peel [to mark clothes L.F. Brands approached in- making its debut in Canada with were acquired by L.F. Brands possibly deliver that justifies the you plan to buy], in the prototype vestment bank Financo Inc. to the fall collection. when it purchased The Warren price tag? The manuscript isn’t due they’re perforated,” the source said. facilitate the search, and a book Some other product cate- Group in 1998. for a year and won’t hit shelves But the art direction appears to with details about the Steffe gories that Short said he thinks In March, trans- until 2005, but one title being borrow even more from another business — which generates an- Steffe should eventually license ferred its dress license from L.F. bandied about: “The Doorman monster magazine success story, nual sales of roughly $15 million include fragrance, eyewear, Brands to Kellwood Co. Wears Dolce.” Real Simple. The cover of the Upon hearing it, though, prototype this person saw Weisberger’s agent just laughed. (apparently there are four different “No, someone else must have come covers) featured a woman in a up with that,” said Deborah Pucci print dress sitting in a chair Schneider of Gelfman & Schneider. (“a midcentury-modern one, like Jones Taps Pech to Replace Bott “It’s cute, but I haven’t heard it an Eames”) while arrows with before. Right now, the book is being dollar figures attached pointed to By Evan Clark Jones New York Sport and team taking this successful brand circulated as ‘Untitled.’” And this each item. Inside, “where Lucky is Country labels, as well as Easy to the next level, while retaining time, Weisberger appears to be so much like Glamour, this is like NEW YORK — Jones Apparel Spirit Apparel and Rena Rowan. the vision of .” playing her karmic cards right — Real Simple — a little more Group has shuffled its executive Susan Rieland, president of As reported, Signature rounds instead of demonizing Anna understated, subdued.” ranks. casual design for the Jones New off the firm’s offerings under the Wintour, she’ll be lionizing Page Hearst continues to play its cards Heather Pech was appointed York Signature and Sport Jones New York brand and also Six’s Richard Johnson and his ilk. close to the vest on the project, president of the firm’s Polo brands, also will pick up design helps fill the void left when the “It’s about twentysomething refusing to acknowledge its name Jeans Co. division, replacing responsibility for Jones New Lauren by Ralph Lauren license Manhattanites,” Schneider said, and emphasizing that it doesn’t have Bubbles Bott, who has left the York Country, Easy Spirit and transferred back to Polo Ralph “but it’s more ‘Sex and the City’ a green light, let alone a launch company, confirming a report in Rena Rowan. Lauren Corp. in June. than ‘Bright Lights, Big City.’ One date. As for the above description, WWD Wednesday. Chief executive Peter “The response has been ex- of the protagonists is a gossip Norwood replied via e-mail that Pech signed on with Jones in Boneparth said in a statement tremely positive to this…product, columnist. It’s very much an insider “your source is unreliable. While 1990 and most recently was group Pech had been key to the success which completes the full lifestyle girl’s adventures in New York.” — there is a shopping component, this president of Jones New York of the firm’s casual sportswear. dressing needs of the Jones New Greg Lindsay is where the similarity to other Sport, Jones Jeans, Easy Spirit, “Her great depth of product expe- York customer,” he said. magazines ends. Although the focus Jones Studio and Rena Rowan. rience coupled with the strength Although it’s not surprising SEND IN THE CLONES: With six and targeting of this magazine has Susan Metzger, president of of her department store relation- that, as ceo, Boneparth is enthu- months to do it and the decades of never wavered, like any new sales and marketing for the ships provide excellent tools for siastic about the new line, retail Hearst Magazines’ wisdom at her magazine project, there are many firm’s new better line, Jones her to make the same positive im- sources also have reacted posi- disposal, Mandi Norwood was asked content concepts in development New York Signature, was elevat- pact at Polo Jeans Co.” tively to the line, which faces an to invent a shopping magazine that and I am enjoying exploring all of ed to group president, taking on He added, “We look forward to increasingly competitive mar- would be Lucky’s killer. Instead, it them.” — Greg Lindsay added responsibility for the her and the entire Polo Jeans Co. ketplace in the better arena.

24 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 IMRA: Keeping Up With Wal-Mart Hitting the Target: By Katherine Bowers lights of the big boxes and Home broadly pushing up price points. Depot,” said Joe Scarlett, chair- The chain is strong with Chain Shares Tips ORLANDO — “In a price-con- man and ceo of Tractor Supply African Americans, but “under- scious world, Wal-Mart is such a Co., which has evolved from leveraged” with Hispanics, ac- ORLANDO, Fla. — Nothing their pets like they’re members force that how do you compete? supplying low-margin basics to cording to Perdue. “A great per- like a field trip for a little com- of the family.” At the holiday, How do you exist alongside?” farmers to fancy machinery to centage of the population is not petitive insight. there will be six endcaps of The question, vocalized by gentleman ranchers. reported, not just in traditional Roughly 70 vendor and retail Christmas stockings for dogs. Forrester Research vice presi- Some retailers see branded markets but also in areas like executives attending the Inter- On the other side of this high- dent Michael Gazala during the exclusives as the route to take, Birmingham and Cincinnati.” national Mass Retail Associa- frequency aisle, food tasters Sept. 14 kickoff to the Inter- while others (Target, for exam- Investing in sales-tracking tion’s annual three-day conven- proffering shot-glass-sized offer- national Mass Retail Associa- ple) view differentiation as a technologies is a priority, Per- tion piled into buses Sunday in ings of vanilla Starbucks frappes tion’s annual conference, was road paved by private label. due said, because getting a read order to tour a SuperTarget hoped to lure customers into the pervading theme at the In fact, the growth of private on customer needs is otherwise here. The 196,000-square-foot grocery. The store also had a three-day event at the Gaylord label surfaced as suppliers’ difficult. store, which opened in March, mini “food court,” sans tables, Palms Resort here. biggest concern, as measured by “For the most part, our cus- is one of the Minneapolis-based with Einstein bagel and Krispy In fact, the noise, both inside electronic audience balloting, at tomers don’t want to talk,” he retailer’s newest formats, about Kreme kiosks, Cheesecake and outside the sessions, was Sunday’s opening session. said. “They are living in multi- 20,000 square feet larger than Factory baked goods and 24 feet nearly all Wal-Mart, all the time. “We’re very concerned about generational homes. Some are the average supercenter. of Jelly Belly gourmet jelly Among the topics publicly and that, since our livelihood is retired. Overall, they are barely Although the size may not be beans. privately discussed: Wal-Mart’s brands,” said Pete Silvestri, getting by and it’s humiliating replicated in every location, the Yet even with tantalizing aro- continued growth in grocery; its leader of Wal-Mart operations to them.” basic layout has been the “rub- mas in the air and high-demand move toward metropolitan areas, for Procter & Gamble. Although demand for the dol- ber stamp to roll out everything items placed along boundaries, and its mandate that its top-100 Some vendors said they felt lar concept is “growing faster since,” one manager said. some observers privately said suppliers be compliant with Among the insights shared Target still has a way to go to get Auto-ID, the much-ballyhooed by the 10 Target managers who its traditional customers to shop wireless item-tracking technolo- This industry is growing unabated. To led visitors around the meticu- the whole store. gy, by 2005. “ lous store: the lingerie depart- “Wal-Mart does a better job The gravitational pull exert- give you an example, Wal-Mart’s market ment is the size of an average of it with their power aisle,” ed by Bentonville’s biggest Victoria’s Secret store (about said one supplier who asked for meant the handful of senior ex- cap is seven times greater than the 4,500 square feet), softlines ac- anonymity. “They’ll put out a ecutives who attended — among count for 25 percent of the su- stack of $6 blankets right next to them, president and chief exec- entire department store sector. perstore’s revenues (30 per- a bargain on food. They don’t utive officer of Wal-Mart stores ” cent in traditional Targets) mind mixing it up.” Mike Duke, executive vice presi- — Daniel Hurwitz, Developers Diversified Realty and the Orlando market is the Target, however, continues dent Don Harris and senior vice retailer’s second-biggest na- to excel in finding attractive president Celia Clancy — were squeezed — needing to provide than our ability to keep up with tional market behind Texas. and clutter-free ways to dis- inundated at every turn by those branded goods whenever possi- it,” Perdue said, the category Nine more supercenters are play goods. seeking “face time.” ble, yet citing as drawbacks to needs to pay attention to brand planned in Seminole County A recent move to take cos- “We have an office right creating exclusives the extra re- differentiation. in addition to the existing six. tume jewelry and sunglasses down the road from them in sources required, loss of core For Chesapeake, Va.-based The company is also trying to off traditional carousel dis- Bentonville, but it never hurts to focus and the risks of angering Dollar Tree, which has 2,468 loosen its reliance on plan-o- plays and put them on walls by put in a little face time,” said other customers. stores and $2.8 billion in rev- grams — weekly dispatches brand “has opened up the de- one sales executive from a Suppliers also said that enue, some differentiation from corporate headquarters in partment and given us a nice Fortune 500 company that sup- while Wal-Mart expects things comes from providing every item Minneapolis that dictate every- boost in sales,” said one soft- plies to the retailer. designed for its $250 billion at $1 or less. In contrast, Dollar thing from the number of lines manager. Starting with But if the question “how to world — everything from a new General uses a broader price ketchup bottles to display to holiday, the majority of watch- coexist with Wal-Mart?” sounds category of sleepwear to a re- range, up to roughly $10. when to mark down corduroy. es will be self-serve to encour- familiar, the answers touted designed beverage unit that’s Because of its strict $1 policy, Instead, it is experimenting age and streamline purchases. over the course of three days do, faster through checkout — it is Dollar Tree carries no adult with allowing ground-level Other successes: sports bras, as well. proactive about collaboration, sportswear, but does a healthy managers to have input on as- priced $7.99 to $14.99. The com- Look for differentiation and cutting through the red tape and business in socks, supplemented sortment and pricing. pany has tripled its category convenience, for starters, said ex- expense historically involved in occasionally by $1 underwear or “Right now, in preparation presentation from four to 12 perts. With its cavernous box and product launches. children’s wear, said executive for our entry into Washington, feet, said the softlines manager. locations at increasingly congest- Ye t, despite tensions about Bob Sasser. The average cus- D.C., I’m surveying our competi- Although the Swell housewares ed highway crossroads, Wal-Mart private label, the mass retail in- tomer spends $7 per visit, he tors around there on pricing and range is reportedly selling has no lock on convenience. dustry has reason to be pleased added, picking up a range of assortment to see what I need to slightly below plan, the brand’s Definitions of convenience with itself. nonperishable food, house- do to capture the customer,” colorful and preppy sleepwear, ranged from being able to pro- The category continues to run wares, health and beauty prod- said one regional manager. intimates and yoga outfits are vide a one-stop shop — possibly roughshod over the traditional ucts, toys and paper goods. The Orlando store, for exam- exceeding expectations. “It has by locating next to complemen- retail sector, growing to a 73 per- Sessions on supply chain ple, breaks with Target’s norm been a key differentiator for tary businesses — to being locat- cent market share in 2002 from a were particularly well attended by having a local distributor this department,” said the soft- ed within developed neighbor- 39 percent stake in 1987, accord- through the three-day conven- stock 24 feet of specialty foods lines manager. hoods, instead of forcing cus- ing to Developers Diversified’s tion. One focused on Auto-ID, for the Hispanic market. In addition to its department tomers to drive to big-box cen- Hurwitz, who painted a national which tags items with a radio- Efforts to raise visit frequen- size, Target is taking other ters off highways. picture of real estate availability. frequency electronic product cy — the corporate goal is two plays from lingerie powerhouse “We’ve got an aging population “This industry is growing un- code. The EPC is essentially a more visits per customer per Victoria’s Secret, developing a who is looking at accessibility as a abated. To give you an example, future-generation bar code with year, or an additional four mil- private label take on the Body major factor in shopping habits,” Wal-Mart’s market cap is seven greater capacity to track an in- lion visits this year, said an elec- by Victoria’s Secret seamless, said David Perdue, chairman and times greater than the entire de- dividual item’s characteristics tronics manager — were evident molded-cup franchise and even ceo of Goodlettsville, Tenn.-based partment store sector,” he said. than its predecessor. According throughout the store. Some ven- offering fashion pieces cued off Dollar General. “From our point Wildfire growth is the order to its advocates, EPC will allow dors offered $20 gift cards “for the pink-and-black scheme of view, convenience is a big need of the day for the Dollar Store for better demand forecasting. your next visit,” free with the Victoria’s Secret advertised and we’re opening two stores a category, which has found its “This cannot only tell you purchase of vacuum cleaners or heavily last spring. day to meet that need.” niche limbo-ing under Wal- what it is and where it is. It can other big-ticket items. In the store’s 60,000 square In a presentation Tuesday on Mart’s pricing. tell you whether an item was The layout also is designed feet devoted to apparel, choosing real estate, Daniel At Sunday’s opening session, sold for full price or marked around frequency, particularly Cherokee reigns as the biggest Hurwitz, executive vice presi- Dollar General’s Perdue spoke down,” claimed Jeffrey Smith, getting general merchandise brand by volume, according to dent of Developers Diversified about the company’s demo- Accenture’s global managing customers to become regular the softlines manager. The ex- Realty, urged the big-box con- graphics and the shifts therein. partner for retail and consumer food shoppers. ecutive touted the return of cepts to consider metropolitan Women make up 80 percent of products. According to Smith, a In the Orlando store, for in- Merona in her store, a contem- areas, which are convenient to a its customer base and 20 per- retailer can add 2 percent to a stance, replenishment items porary careerwear range tem- whole new class of customers, cent of customers are over 65, company’s top line revenues sim- that are relatively pricy at porarily disbanded when the even if it means adapting store he said. The average store does ply by eliminating out-of-stocks. drugstores (diapers, tooth company experimented with or parking design. “Those are the $1 million annually in sales. In one concrete sign of Auto- whiteners, laundry detergent, Meg Allen by Liz Claiborne. areas willing to help you locate Although the retailer has his- ID’s potential, Wal-Mart has man- sports bars and pet supplies) And although the south Flor- there, particularly if it’s a grossly torically served a customer on a dated its top 100 suppliers be filled the aisle separating the ida day was steamy enough to underserved area or there is an fixed income in a rural area, the Auto-ID compliant by 2005 and grocery from general merchan- evaporate snowflakes, much [abandoned property] eyesore,” move toward opening stores in the remaining vendors by 2006. dise. Novelty pet gear, for im- less melt them “on your nose he said. “The days of finding a cities and their surrounding, The retailer is gathering its en- pulse purchasing, is one of the and eyelashes,” a manager said cornfield at two major highways densely settled neighborhoods is tire supplier base in Bentonville hottest categories in the store, the company will soon be fea- [intersections] are over.” attracting a higher-income cus- in November to brief them about said one Target tour guide. turing Rod Stewart rasping the In addition to convenience, tomer. That customer typically the standards for the new tech- “I sold out of a whole end- Julie Andrews classic “My experts also preached differenti- has 20 to 25 percent more in- nology in November. cap [display] of Halloween pet Favorite Things” in its holiday ation — in concept, customer tar- come than the store’s average, “Privately, a lot of retailers costumes in five days,” he television campaign. get and merchandise selection. Perdue said, adding the compa- are thinking about hitching onto noted. “People are buying for — K.B. “I tell my merchandisers to ny is looking at new ways to mer- the momentum Wal-Mart has just keep us out of the head- chandise these stores without created,” Smith said. WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 25

Grajales in her SoHo Cristina Grajales: Midcentury Design Booster showroom.

NEW YORK — Don’t dare call Cristina Grajales an inte- ers. Since establishing her own company, she’s become rior decorator. It’s not that Grajales has anything the go-to person for collectors and interior designers against people who push furniture around for a living, looking for period pieces. She also bids for clients at but her work as a decorative arts consultant is more rar- auction houses such as Phillips de Pury & Luxembourg efied and refined. and Wright in Chicago. “I absolutely don’t want to be known as an interior Grajales’ SoHo showroom is filled with furniture and designer,” she says vehemently. “It’s more interesting objects chosen for their beauty, rarity and wit. “I like for me to curate a collection.” pieces that surprise me,” she says. “I’m drawn to things Her passion is midcentury modern furniture and ob- with a handmade quality. I’m always looking for a balance jects from designers such as Charlotte Perriand, Jean between the simplicity and complexity of an object.” Royère and George Nakashima. Among her prizes are a black pickled-oak console by Grajales, who travels in chic circles where the Pierre Jeanneret, which carries a $150,000 price worlds of design, art and fashion intersect, has tag, a rustic chair and stool by Charlotte gained a following in the fashion industry. Perriand, a rare Alexander Noll cabinet and Narciso Rodriguez, Angel Sanchez, Coach’s a coffee table by Isamu Noguchi. There’s Reed Krakoff, Wolfgang Joop, Michael also a series of faux-bois ceramic pitchers, Maharam of Maharam textiles, and stylist Arts vases and lamps by Grand-Jean Valluris are among her clients. and a 1978 brass Chervet lamp in the “It’s a pleasure to know someone with shape of a giant shrimp. such great taste,” says Rodriguez. “I’m al- With Barbara Wilhell, an art expert, ways inspired by her knowledge and what & Grajales is able to offer one-stop shopping she does. Cristina has an incredible eye that integrates art with design. “It’s a very and a great sense of style. She’s an original.” People nice way of doing business,” she says. “It’s Sanchez, who sought Grajales’ advice when very discreet, very human and very accessible.” he decorated his former home in Caracas, says, “I Grajales is always looking for new artists to in- love the modernists. Before I buy anything I show it to troduce to her clients. On a visit to Cuba in March with Cristina. She understands furniture and different styles theater director Robert Wilson, she discovered and fashion.” Damian Aquiles, who imprints oxidized old keys on

Fashion has long had an affinity with the furniture paper. She also found an art student who crafts deli- THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY and decorative arts of the Thirties, Forties and Fifties. cate mobiles from tomato cans. “I like pieces that sur- The House of Lanvin enlisted Christian Berard to design prise me,” she says. races for Sir Evelyn and Lady Lyn de Rothschild, rugs for its atelier, and Hermès collaborated with Paul In an effort to share her passion for design with the Narciso Rodriguez and Wolfgang Joop. Harold Korda, Dupre-Lafon to make furniture, clocks and ashtrays. public, Grajales created a lecture series for the 92nd costume curator for the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Simone Prové, the daughter of modernist master Street Y. “Dialogues With Design Legends” pairs indus- will moderate. Jean Prové, designed curtains for the dressing rooms of try heavies for discussions and Q&As. Grajales got the idea for a design-oriented lecture se- the Balenciaga boutique here and created fabric back- On Oct. 7, rug designers Christopher Farr and Angela ries after meeting Eva Zeisel, the nonagenarian drops for the windows of Hermès’ Paris flagship last Adams will talk about their work. The subject of a session Hungarian-born ceramics and industrial designer December. Her hand-crafted fabrics are sold exclusive- on Oct. 21 is restaurant design with David Rockwell and known for her sensuous forms. ly through Grajales’ showroom. chef Gary Kunz. Nov. 4 will feature landscape design- “I thought, ‘Why can’t we take advantage of all these As the longtime director of DeLorenzo 1950, a gallery ers Edwina von Gal, whose projects include gardens people who are still around and are so smart?’” she devoted to designs of the period, Grajales developed a for Ross Bleckner, David Salle, Richard Meier and says. “I wanted to learn from them.” network of antiques dealers, galleries and private sell- Ralph Lauren, and Miguel Pons, who designed ter- — Sharon Edelson

Karl Lagerfeld Lawrence Stroll WWD DNR Co-Chairman, Sportswear Holdings Ltd. CE Burton M. Tansky OSUMMIT President and CEO, Neiman Marcus Group Fabien Baron Creative Director and Owner, Baron & Baron Inc. Barry Diller Chairman and CEO, InterActiveCorp Heinz Krogner Group CEO and Deputy Chairman, Esprit Holdings Ltd. Jeffrey P. Bezos Founder and CEO, Amazon.com Inc. Wilbur L. Ross, Jr. Chairman, International Steel Group Chairman and CEO, W.L. Ross & Company LLC Bruce J. Klatsky Chairman and CEO, Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. Jack Mitchell Chairman and CEO, Mitchells/Richards Diane Von Furstenberg Diane Von Furstenberg Studio LP Jed Petrick President and Chief Operating Officer, The WB Michael Kors Michael Kors LLC will doıt. WWD|DNR CEO Retail|Apparel Summit November 5 –7 The Ritz-Carlton, Battery Park, For information, call (212) 630-4779 or e-mail [email protected]

We thank the following sponsors. 26 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003

NATIONAL SALES REPS TWO National Sales Reps needed for Merchandise Coordinator Spec Tech Supervisor major retail house accounts. Good com- Licensee for Kenneth Cole Menswear Spec tech needed for Branded Inti- missions. Need serious Reps with and Ecko Red seeks Independent and mate Apparel Co. to review sewing in- established contacts for Eastern and motivated individual based in Boston structions, patterns & B.O.M. Bra Western U.S. See our hot new product Bryant Pk Duplex 1100, 2000, 4500 FT. to cover Mass, RI and Maine as a Merch. 20 Ft Ceilings - Great Windows/Views molding , sketching & excellent com- line at www.crashbags.com. Serious Coord. Retail exp. a must. Email resume: munication skills a must. inquiries ONLY. Send history of your SoHo-Sublet Penthouse 2000 FT [email protected] Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Fax resume to 212-686-6417 success to [email protected] Search-www.manhattanoffices.com Merchandiser WAYNE ROGERS N.Y. SEEKING: Retail Store Manager Los Angeles based high end accessory National Sales Manager:Musthave 8- 10 yrs exp. selling branded collection Luxury boutique in Short Hills Mall, NJ company seeks a Merchandiser. The seeks energetic Store Manager with ideal candidate will be an expert in the w/ Dept/Specialty Stores & strong rela- min 2 yrs management experience. Ex- accessory circuit. Min 10 yrs as an tionships w/ buyers & mgmt. cellent salary plus commission & paid :2-3 established merchandiser with a Customer Service/Sales Assistant vacation. Fax resume to: 212-355-1411 For Space in Garment Center proven track record. years in related position. Production Assistant:Min 2 years in Sales Assistant Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Responsibilities will include: apparel industry, have sense of urgen- 212-880-0414 cy, excellent production follow-up Apparel Imp. Co. specializing in child- Collaboration with design on trends, ren’s / junior / missy& some men’s fabrications, colors, shapes, and sea- skills with overseas suppliers & profi- ciency of Excel & Word. needs detail oriented asst w/ good Showrooms & Lofts sonal products. Tracking of weekly phone manners & computer skills. Pls BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS sales, compare sales to stock ratios, de- Fax resume to HR at fax #212-354-9099 Great ’New’ Office Space Avail velop classification plans and under- apply to attn: Dave fax # 212-290-9569. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 stand the core industry to develop a fashion mix and maximize sales. Indi- Sales Asst - Bon Bebe vidual to act as a liaison between Leading Layette Importer seeks moti- design, production and sales. vated individual with min 1 yr Import Apparel experience. Will handle In- Interpersonal and leadership skills house sales to spec. stores plus assist required. Ability to define problems, senior sales staff. Must be detail orient- collect data, and establish facts and ed w/ strong computer and org skills. draw valid conclusions. Polished Fax resume to 212-695-4508 professional. Please fax resume Attn: HR SALES EXECUTIVE COTTON, RAYON, NYLON, SILK, (562) 630-7509 Seeking an aggressive sales account CASHMERE! Fine Gauge sweaters! Email: [email protected] executive experienced in selling men’s Pricewaterhouse Coopers, Kohl’s, Fabric Sales Manager Jones approved Mfr. in China. E-mail and/or women’s intimate apparel to for more info: [email protected] One of the largest Asian chains and clubs. Must have establish- fabric suppliers is seeking a ed relationships or contacts and be WE WANT YOUR ORDERS! PATTERNMAKER thoroughly familiar with servicing Large China mfr. seeks new customers. OUTERWEAR sales manger. Candidate those channels of distribution. We have 10 yrs. exp. w/Walmart, K-mart, Leather & Fabrics. Must be knowledge- must have a strong sales Fax resume to: 626-355-5343 JC Penney’s orders. Large Volume! able in Men’s/Women’s/Children. woven fabric background, Please call @ [646] 269-9694 Min. 4 yrs. experience. Willing to work SALES PERSON in New Jersey. Please fax resume to: has existing accounts & abili- A well known New York based Jobber [201] 729-9229 Attn: Gaby ty to develop new accounts. selling brands seeks a highly motivat- e-mail to: ed self-starter to increase sales in Men’s, Ladies’, and kids’ apparel includ- Prod’n Person/Import [email protected] or ing urban wear. Needs hands-on prod’n person for im- fax to 212-967-8018 Please fax to 212-239-0088 or E-mail AITF TRUCKING port co. Must have 10 yrs exp. Pkgs & to [email protected] Warehouse & Distribution Ctr. NY/NJ/LI factory communications. Fax res: 212- in 24 hrs. Local delivery, pick & pack, etc. 302-7732 or email [email protected] Sales Professionals 800-451-8625 or www.aitftrucking.com ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Highly motivated and detail oriented Wearelooking for energetic and pro required for dynamic skin care co extremely motivated sales professio- Product Development with amazing clientele and products. nals to help build our US team. We are PATTERNS, SAMPLES, excellent communication, leadership awellestablished (China/HK) trading Director and problem solving skills. Incredible company seeking qualified sales reps PRODUCTIONS specializing in one of the following All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Los Angeles based high end accessory growth oppty for an enthusiastic, ener- getic individual. For more info. log on fields – Footwear, Accessories, Giftware Call Sherry 212-719-0622. company seeks a highly skilled quali- or House wares. Candidates must have fied Product Development Director to to www.traciemartyn.com Do not apply on line. Fax resume: 718-422-0146 existing relationships with key depart- join our team. This position will be a ment / chain stores in the US market. PATTERNS/SAMPLES key factor in the development and di- Candidates must have at least 5 years rection of our accessory line. This posi- Ma Los Angeles experience. A generous compensation PRODUCTION tion requires strong creative and ana- package is included. Samples & patterns. Full service shop lytical skills as well as an understand- Creative? Experienced with bags & Please fax resume to 201-784-9954 to the trade. Fine fast work. ing of the product development proc- fashion accessories? Join the leader in 212-869-2699 ess and the retail business. custom promotional bags. We’re grow- STORE MANAGER/SALES ASSOCIATES ing & have 2 new positions: Responsibilities: PATTERNS/ SAMPLES •Conduct market and competitive re- Project Manager search to identify target trends and To support our sales team! PRODUCTIONS new markets. S eeking qualified, motivated and Account Director entrepreneurial individuals to work in Call (212) 268-9126 •Manages product through all stages To win more business! of product lifecycle, maintaining estab- our Aspen, Los Angeles, Chicago lished standards at each stage of the For more details, check out our (opening Nov. 2003) and New York Product Development; price, quality website careers section at (opening early 2004) stores. Please E-mail and delivery. www.macher.com resumes: [email protected] •Uses historical data, customer, trend research and information on current SENIOR BUYER markets in the development of new product categories as well as refining Exciting opportunity to join a growing designer company. Re- existing products. sponsibilities include merchandising, buying, planning, and •Establish infrastructure to introduce Profitable!...Interested? daily management of multi-store inventory. Minimum of 5 and produce new product categories. ALLEN B. MEN Small Domestic Outerwear Producer/ •Act as a cross-functional team leader Mfr. looking to retire after 35 years. yrs buying/merchandising exp in designer apparel. Women’s where appropriate to set a direction Make an offer. Fax: 973-614-1099 exp preferred, Men’s exp a plus. We offer a competitive based on collaboration with Planning, by Allen Schwartz salary and comprehensive benefits program. Fax resume to: and Design. •Develop market strategy and drive (212) 632-4322 or e-mail: [email protected]. EOE M/F market focus. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE •Execution of product idea from con- cept to market. Hot New Contemporary Resource Admin Since 1967 Seeking upbeat and self-motivated individual with a Polished professional. Minimum of passion for clothing. Must have existing account rela- W-I-N-S-T-O-N 10+ years experience in a related field. RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 Advance Degree in Marketing a plus. tionships with contemporary/designer specialty stores, de- PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. APPAREL STAFFING partment stores & international accounts. 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 DESIGN*SALES*MERCH Please fax resume Attn: HR Minimum of 3 years experience required. (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION (562) 630-7509 www.resumesforfashion.com (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Email: [email protected] Excellent salary and benefits offered. Please fax resumes Attn: Lloyd Singer 212-840-0092 or email: [email protected] Apparel Staffing, Ltd. Design Technician/ Saks Fifth Avenue All inquiries will be kept confidential See Career Openings Pre-Production @ www.apparelstaffing.com The most inviting luxury shopping FAX Resume To (212) 302-1161 Highly fast paced co, based in L.A., experience in the world. looking for resourceful, detail oriented person. Sewing and computer illustra- tion knowledge a MUST. Min 3 yrs Personal Shopping experience in all phases of technical CAD Artist design and pre-production. Must know Consultant Seeking CAD Artist for Textile Co. Must garment construction and be able to Presently, we seek an experienced have full knowledge of Ned Graphics identify and troubleshoot problems. Personal Shopping Consultant for our Printing Studio, Sophis Harmony flagship store in Manhattan. Our 5th DESIGNER (Coloring & Reconstruct - Mimaki TX2 MUST KNOW ILLUSTRATOR, Avenue Club offers the most compre- You must specialize in Missy Printer), Evolution Coloring Programs PHOTOSHOP, & MICROSOFT EXCEL hensive personalized shopping service (Encad Nova Jet 630). 2 - 3 years design available in the country today. Success- Sweaters/Cut & Sew. 10 experience required. Excellent sense Criteria fitting candidates ONLY apply. ful candidates must possess a proven ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE years experience. Excellent of design & color needed. Photoshop a Respond by Fax 213.622.0119 track record of providing exemplary Exciting opportunity available in our East Coast showroom. plus. Please Fax or E-mail resume to: Attn: DM Jobs or e-mail to customer service, with expertise in the Pay and Benefits. [email protected] development and retention of clients, Responsibilities include managing the sales of Men’s and Email Resume to: 914-251-1656 / [email protected] and the ability to offer guests individu- Women’s Collections within specialty stores; developing new [email protected] alized attention for their shopping business and conducting in-store seminars. BA/BS, minimum needs. An existing client base in high-end retail and familiarity with a of 2-3 years experience, and excellent analytical/ DESIGNER commission environment is strongly communication skills required. Established relationships with GEAR For Sports Gerber Accumark preferred. specialty stores preferred. BA/BS required. Please fax A leading producer of quality active Patternmaker: Please apply in-person, by fax or via resume and salary history to: (212) 632-4322. EOE M/F joan vass usa wear seeks a creative designer to join Midtown women’s apparel company e-mail to: We are seeking a Sales our int’l. design team in Kansas City. seeking an experienced patternmaker Strong communication & organizational for knits & wovens. Must be proficient Saks Fifth Avenue - Human Resources Person with experience skills 2+ years exp. in ladies design in the latest versions of Accumark. 611 Fifth Avenue 10th Floor selling to Bridge Sports- preferred. We require a strong knit- Must be able to develop, manipulate New York, NY 10022 wear background in creating diverse and correct patterns on Accumark. Fax (212) 940-2992 wear specialty stores. collections: mens, ladies, tradtitional & Please fax resume and salary e-mail [email protected] Fax: (212) 704-0445 urban. Comp. salary & benefits pkg. requirements to 212-714-1265 E-mail resume: sready@gearforsports Résumés w/out a salary will not be reviewed. EOE WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 27 H&M Expansion Hits Italy Gucci, Louis Vuitton By Luisa Zargani MILAN — The Milan retail scene is changing by the Paving the Way day — almost as quickly as Hennes & Mauritz turns out new collections. And today, the Swedish fast-fash- ion giant finally lands in Italy, opening the country’s first H&M store, here. Located on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the busy In Emerging Galleria commercial street off the Duomo, the city’s cathe- dral, the store replaces the historical store, By Amanda Kaiser which shuttered in July. Although H&M and Zara are well-rooted realities MILAN — Move over Via Montenapoleone, there’s a new around the world, fast fashion is still a novel concept piece of hot real estate in town. in Italy, where the first Zara shop opened last year, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the elegant 19th-century and mom-and-pop stores still dominate most of the shopping arcade that sits beside the city’s famed cathedral, is country. Rolf Eriksen, chief executive officer of the sprucing up, and Gucci and Louis Vuitton are the first ones to Swedish retailer, attributes the delay to H&M’s need get in on the act. to find the perfect space. Local government officials here have given both luxury “We were looking for the right location, large enough Inside H&M’s Milan store on Corso Vittorio Emanuele. brands the green light for 12-year leases in the city-owned for a flagship and in the right spot. We could have Galleria starting from Jan. 1, 2004. done another 10,000 square feet, but we are on one of “I hope that this will bring good business to both Louis the five top shopping streets in Europe,” said Eriksen. Vuitton and Gucci,” said Giancarlo Pagliarini, who manages the The three story, 16,200-square-foot shop houses the city’s real estate assets. “I don’t know if the two stores will gen- women’s, men’s, cosmetics, accessories and inner- erate a lot of sales, but they will act more as image enhancers.” wear collections. “We would like to offer our chil- Pagliarini spearheaded a plan to increase the Galleria’s dren’s wear as well, so we are looking to open another rents and make it a major revenue driver — a project that shop in the city,” said Eriksen. had its critics. Some detractors feared the structure would For a brand that relies on large and quick restock- eventually become a mall, deserted at night when the stores ing, Eriksen said Milan was also a practical choice. close. Ultimately, Pagliarini and the city’s coffers prevailed. “It’s easy to serve Milan from our warehouse in Louis Vuitton will take over a space previously occupied Paris,” said Eriksen, adding that it is likely the firm by a travel agency, just across the way from the oldest store will eventually establish a warehouse in northern Italy. of Prada, which is a longtime resident and so far the area’s While Inditex Group relied on an Italian real es- only luxury inhabitant. tate partner, Percassi, to open Zara stores in the coun- Gucci will move in practically next door to Vuitton, replac- try, Eriksen said H&M is renting the store on its own. ing historic coffee bar Il Salotto. An interesting catch: City of- “This is the way we do business around the world,” he ficials, eager to preserve a diverse mix of establishments in said. “I must say, Elio Fiorucci helped us and gave us the Galleria, have convinced Gucci to run an in-store café. some useful tips to deal with Italian regulations.” A Gucci spokesman said the company has no further de- He conceded that H&M did not want to veer far from tails at this point. Agostino Ropolo, chief executive of Fiorucci’s imprint of a young and fun store. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s Italian unit, said The company seems to have achieved that goal with Vuitton plans to sign its lease contract in the coming weeks this unit, with a full wall of colorful Warhol-inspired and the store should be open in late spring. portraits in the entrance, a series of life-size reproduc- “We believe the Galleria is an area of the city with a tions of deer in bright yellow with clothes strewn on large amount of commercial potential,” Ropolo said. “We them and necklaces hanging from the antlers, and believe that the arrival of the Louis Vuitton and Gucci stainless steel fixtures painted in orange or gold. “The stores will improve the Galleria’s image.” accent is on colors that brighten up walnut shelves or New residents mean a significant scene change for the tables, too, and the deer are a crazy touch that has of 95 designers based in Stockholm. The designer said Galleria. Once considered the heart of Milanese elegance and nothing to do with the clothes, but we wanted some- new assortments are delivered to H&M stores every week. swank, the quality of establishments has eroded over the years. thing unexpected and functional at the same time,” Founded in 1947, H&M lists 893 stores in 17 coun- While it is still home to Prada and institutions such as the nou- said architect Ulrika Bernhardtz, who worked on the tries. A public company that sells more than 500 million veau-style café Zucca and ritzy restaurants Savini and Biffi, the store concept with architect Anders Larsson. pieces a year and employs 39,000 people, its profits last Galleria’s other inhabitants are decidedly downmarket. Tacky The off-white ceramic tile floors and walls contrast year leapt 49 percent to $670 million, or 81 cents a souvenir stands and even a McDonald’s make their home there. with wallpaper in traditional patterns in unusual col- share, from $449.6 million, or 54 cents, during the pre- The city is hoping to change the ambience and is jacking ors such as bubble-gum pink, mustard, azure or sage. ceding year. Sales advanced 14.6 percent to $6.28 billion up rents accordingly. Still, the rates are appetizing for luxu- In much the same way, a traditional lamp is revamped from $5.48 billion. Exports accounted for 89 percent of ry groups used to sky-high multiples for spaces on Via with modern materials like Plexiglas replacing crys- sales, with Germany, the group’s biggest market, ac- Montenapoleone and its side streets. Gucci and Vuitton will tal. Bernhardtz said the Milan store is “unique” at the counting for 30 percent of sales. pay $1,343, or 1,190 euros, annually per square meter of sell- moment, but that others might be modeled along the In contrast to mid-market competitor Benetton, ing space on the ground floor. Rates for office space, storage same lines. “We wanted a rock ’n’ roll feeling, not a H&M does not own factories, nor does it heavily in- and bathrooms are lower. (There are about 10.76 square feet tidy and sleek image,” she said. vest in advertising. in a square meter.) Margareta van den Bosch, who is in charge of design, “We believe working with suppliers — about 900 — Analogous sales floor space in the Via Montenapoleone said the company chose to highlight the “younger and around the world allows a greater flexibility and that area runs in the ballpark of $1,918, or 1,700 euros, to $4,837, trendier collections” for the Milan store. Van den Bosch, our stores and their locations are our marketing strate- or 4,286 euros, a year per square meter. Dollar figures have who has been working with H&M since 1987 and previ- gy,” said Eriksen, noting that 50 percent of suppliers been converted from the euro at current exchange. ously worked on women’s collections for Italian apparel are in Europe, including Italy, and in the Far East. Antonio Soccol, a director of real estate firm FIM, said manufacturer GFT, said the clothes are not necessarily Although Italians appreciate a personal relationship the Galleria area is one to watch. inspired by high-end fashion designers. with store owners and personnel, Eriksen said the “People will become interested in that space again, it will re- “We also keep an eye on music, sports and the street,” group’s self-service concept will work in Italy, as well. claim some glamour — just like when (La Scala reopens next said van den Bosch, who works with an international team “Our total concept is better than service,” he said. year) — there will be more people passing by that area,” he said.

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