Get Dressed NEW YORK — There’S Nothing Quite Like a Terrific Dress
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APPAREL’S DAY IN COURT/12 SEARS GETS GRAND/2 Women’s WearWWD Daily • The Retailers’ Daily NewspaperFRIDAY • September 19, 2003 Vol. 186, No. 60 $2.00 Beauty Get Dressed NEW YORK — There’s nothing quite like a terrific dress. And Zac Posen knows just how to deliver one, which he proved in spades in the flirty, ultra-charming spring collection he showed on Thursday. The frocks ranged from the simplest slips to a soft jade fairy dress with sheer chevrons perfect for a young starlet. And Posen did great-looking day pieces, too — including some smashing blouson jackets and ruched skirts. Here, one of his slinky little numbers with a fluid skirt. For more on the season, see pages 6 to 11. Models As Guinea Pigs: Beauty Uses Backstage To Test New Products By Julie Naughton and Matthew W. Evans NEW YORK — Beauty companies have long realized the sizzle factor of being involved with runway shows. These days, they’re also using them for an Margin Squeeze at Mass Beauty/15 A Three-Way Race in Color/16 even more pragmatic reason — to give a real-life road test to products in development. Fashion has become beauty’s backstage laboratory. “The backstage environment offers a critical audience — the models and artists there have seen just about See Beauty’s, Page11 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 WWDFRIDAY A Grand Opening for Sears Beauty GENERAL By David Moin FASHION: Anna Sui, Zac Posen, Chado Ralph Rucci and Daryl K were the collections everyone was talking about as New York shows continued. NEW YORK — Sears, Roebuck is 6 putting its future into a bigger box. Beauty companies are using the runways to give a real-life road test to On Saturday, the first Sears 1 products in development, making the runways a backstage laboratory. Grand unit opens in the Jordan Sears, Roebuck is putting its future into a bigger box, opening the first Sears Landing Shopping Destination, Grand unit in a bid to battle the dominance of Target, Wal-Mart and Kohl’s. approximately 15 miles from Salt 2 Lake City. It’s an initial bid to bat- SUZY: Opening night at the Metropolitan Opera was a gala to write home tle back against the dominance of 4 about…A buffet from Bush…Hollywood’s having a baby boom. Target, Wal-Mart, Best Buy and Classified Advertisements ..................................................................26-27 Kohl’s and to establish a long- term growth strategy taking Sears To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is to off-the-mall locations with [email protected], using the individual's name. more categories and space. SUBSCRIPTION RATES U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. “Without question, the Sears All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Grand strategy is truly a function Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 of there being very little growth Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. left in malls,” said Jerry Post, WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and September and three in August, by Fairchild senior vice president and general Publications, Inc. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., manager of the retailer’s off-mall Sears Grand opens near Salt Lake City on Saturday. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. growth strategies, in an interview No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be Thursday. “There are not a lot of line stores, which have 185,000 where regional malls don’t exist. expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 new malls being built.” square feet of gross space, includ- The Jordan Landing Sears Grand Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 While Post said that “the heart ing between 120,000 to 130,000 is at 7453 South Plaza Center GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 and soul” of the business at Sears square feet for selling, usually Drive in West Jordan. Competing Printed in the U.S.A. All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of Grand is identical to traditional spread over two levels. Sears has stores in the area include Barnes WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. Sears stores, he also cited a host about 500 full-line stores of that & Noble, Old Navy, Lowe’s and a For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com. of distinctive elements, among size and about 370 more depart- Wal-Mart Supercenter. them, the much larger format. ment stores that are smaller. Sears Grand is shooting for the The first Sears Grand has 208,000 Sears Grand is looking to tar- same productivity as the tradi- square feet of gross space with get middle-income families earn- tional Sears department stores, 155,000 square feet for selling, all ing between $30,000 to $80,000 in according to Post. Last year, Sears In Brief on one floor. That compares with communities with 100,000 to posted $303 in sales per selling the Sears large, traditional full- 150,000 households and markets Continued on page 13 ● BUY BUOYS PENNEY: J.C. Penney Co. Inc.’s shares gained $1.14, or 5.3 percent, to close at $22.80 in Thursday trading on the New York Stock Exchange following an upgrade to “buy, high risk” from “hold, high risk” by Smith Barney analyst Deborah Weinswig. In a research note, Weinswig cited three factors in her new assignment, including management’s attention to the troubled Eckerd drug- Isabel Shuts Down the Capital store unit, better performance from the department stores and cat- alog division and Penney’s “compelling valuation” compared to its By Joanna Ramey ever. The 700-mile wide storm government is closed,” said Paige peers. “We believe that management is focused on improving pro- lumbering across the mid- Peak, director of marketing at ductivity at Eckerd stores and hence increasing the value of WASHINGTON — The approach Atlantic states wasn’t enough to Short Pump, with Nordstrom, Eckerd for a potential suitor or spin-off,” wrote Weinswig. Of the of Hurricane Isabel forced the cancel the ribbon-cutting cere- Lord & Taylor, Hecht’s and an- department store and catalog segments, Weinswig said “sales mo- nation’s capital Thursday to mony at the Taubman Co.’s lat- other Dillard’s as anchors. “I mentum from improved merchandising and advertising, combined hunker down, as Georgetown re- est mall, 690,000 square-foot would imagine that will change. with technology initiatives is leading to improved earnings.” The tailers worried about wet base- open-air Stony Point Fashion The winds aren’t expected to 52-week high for Penney shares is $25.55, reached on Dec. 2. ments, public transportation Park, located outside of Rich- pick up here until 2 p.m.” was halted and the area’s mond, Va. However, the 10 a.m. Malls throughout the mid- ● ATHLETIC PURSUITS: Laila Ali has landed a marketing partner- 336,077 federal workers were or- ceremonies were brief and the Atlantic also reported staying ship with Adidas through 2005, and will serve as a spokeswoman dered to stay home. mall, with Saks, Galyan’s and open well into the afternoon, in- for women’s training, among other things. Meanwhile, rapper 50 The storm by morning had Dillard’s as anchors, closed at 2 cluding the Washington area’s Cent is talking up Reebok during his European tour, which ends come ashore in North Carolina, p.m., with the expectation of re- largest shopping center, five-an- Oct. 6. Through an international marketing initiative, he is fronting and while diminishing slightly, opening at 10 a.m. today, accord- chor Tyson’s Corner Center. the new “G-Unit Collection by Rbk.” Reebok’s Rbk collection is Isabel’s gusts were topping 100 ing to a mall receptionist. Preparing for foul weather street-inspired and designed for young women and men. At the end miles per hour. By early after- On the other side of Rich- has become a way of life in the of each show, 50 Cent throws his own pair of G-6s into the crowd. noon, hours before the hurri- mond, at Short Pump Town Cen- historic Georgetown shopping cane’s eye would arrive, 600,000 ter, officials seemed ambitious district in Washington, which is ● JILL FELL DOWN: Shares of J. Jill Group tumbled 24 percent in homes were without power in with plans to stay open until 5 prone to flooding despite gates after-hours trading Thursday, to $11.65, after the women’s clothing southern Virginia alone. Wash- p.m. Thursday. The mall, another that are deployed to try and specialty retailer said it expected to incur a third-quarter loss of ington’s three airports shut open-air concept with 1.2 million keep the Potomac River out.