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pourang zarif rené bosch elena campos & miyu hirano There are two signs making Russians The 9th of May is a big date for Russians. You are what you eat, the famous saying worried these days. They check them Every year, the military shows its power by goes. In St. Petersburg one could change when they leave their houses before going parading through Moscow, commemorating this to “You are what you assume you are to work. These signs affect all Russians. the victory against Nazi Germany... eating” as this international tourist... (continued on page 2) (continued on page 3) (continued on page 9)

The world comes to St. Petersburg. Students from different countries visit St. Petersburg State University to earn a degree in Global Communication and International Journalism.

Lee Turner Natalia René KODAK SMOLENTCEVA BOSCH editorial historical feature he editorial board A release date for our It has been far from of First Line has special edition more perfect than easy to produce this volume Tentrusted this week’s December 8th is hard to imagine. but producing a university Dissolution of the USSR issue to the students of the On this same date in 1991, ink newspaper is meant to be a years ago today, the process of granting sovereignty stated the priority of the Global Communication and on a page effectively signified the learning experience and the biggest country in to newly-created republics. All republican laws over Soviet ones. International Journalism Masters dissolution of the Soviet Union past few weeks have certainly the world, The Union of this took place in times of Other republics followed their programme. As you can see and the establishment of the been that. Finding topics of 23 of Soviet Socialistic Republics economic and political crisis example. from the map at the top of the Commonwealth of Independent interest to readers and writers ceased to exist. On December amid a rise of political pluralism On March 17th, 1991 a page, the contributors come States in its place. Sharing this alike was a struggle. Motivating 26th, 1991 the Supreme Soviet caused by the cancelation of referendum about the future of from various backgrounds and page is an examination of that journalists to write articles was issued declaration Nº 142- Article 6 of the Constitution of the country was held. For the first have traveled great distances to turbulent time as it appeared a struggle. Meeting deadlines H and the huge country was the USSR about the leading role time, the destiny of the Soviet be in St. Petersburg. In order to to ordinary people who lived was a struggle. Spelling, dissolved into 12 different of the Communist Party. Union depended on the will of begin work on this newspaper, through it. punctuation and grammar parts. But this was not a one- The Central Committee of the people. The actual question the greatest challenge we faced Heavy journalism on the was an unforeseen, straggle. day event; the whole process the Communist Party began was: “Do you consider necessary was finding an overarching serious topics that dominate the However, the participants in of dissolution started much to worry only in 1989 when the preservation of the Union topic; something to link media are by no means all that the Global Communication earlier, as some historians say, the nationalistic interests were of Soviet Socialist Republics as everything together; something our group has drummed up for and International Journalism with Gorbachev’s Perestroika. already very strong. Neither a renewed federation of equal that everyone could relate to First Line. In between the doom programme have come through National conflicts within special laws to “calm” certain sovereign republics in which and contribute to. After much and gloom are pieces about the to put together a multi-faceted the USSR, such as protests in regions, nor special commissions the rights and freedom of an deliberation, the editorial team beauty of St. Petersburg and study of St. Petersburg informed Kazakhstan (1986), tensions organized to discuss the issue individual of any nationality will made the decision to keep things those fighting to keep it beautiful, by the dozen or so cultures between Georgians and served to resolve the problem. be fully guaranteed?” Nobody simple and produce a newspaper some of the people that call the represented in the group. Profiles Abkhazians, the Nagorno- The first to proclaim their knew exactly what “a renewed with one central question: What city home and the pleasures of the people who have created Karabakh conflict (1988) and sovereignty were the Baltic federation” meant, but 76% is global and international one can enjoy here. Two of this issue and the programme the fall of communist regimes republics: Estonia (November voted “yes”. 9 months later the about St. Petersburg? A look our contributors sampled and they have undertaken can be in European countries such 1988), Lithuania (April 1989) Soviet Union was dissolved. at the relationship between commented on some of the found on the back page of this as Poland, Czechoslovakia and Latvia (July 1989). They A sociological poll Russia’s cultural capital and foreign cuisines now available newspaper. Read on to see just and Romania in 1989 lead to a adopted the documents that conducted by the Levada Centre the rest of the globe provides in St. Petersburg restaurants, what this mixture has brought a scope in which each of our while two others investigated the forth. (continued on page 6) contributors could surely find working conditions and salaries something that catches their eye. of those who work in them. 2 FIRST LINE INTERNATIONAL EDITION

Pourang ZAI R F economics

Rouble Slide: Is it sanctions? Oil? Both? here are two signs making Russians worried these days. They companies received loans in US that it will not step back if check them when they leave their houses before going to dollars, Swiss francs, or euros Western sanctions are tightened. Twork. These signs affect all Russians. It does not make any for the first time in 5 years, while What can be concluded then is difference whether one is young or old; the rouble’s value against dollar lending plummeted 42% from that until the West can find an and euro impacts everyone. But how did we get into this situation? $4.7 billion in 2013. On the alternate supplier of energy

On March 9th 2014, President Barack Obama signed Executive other hand, Russian lenders have and build up the infrastructure Author: World Economic Outlook; Russian authorities; and Graph 1 Order 13660, imposing sanctions on Russia. He signed two other suffered a great deal, far more to transfer it, which could take IMF staff estimates and calculations major orders on the 17th and 20th, warning that the annexation than their Western counterparts. decades, Russia has the upper of Crimea would cost Russia. Russian President Vladimir seems The biggest Russian lender, hand in the energy poker game. willingly accept that cost. European Union sanctions followed and OAO Sberbank, lost $22.8 What can the West do to Russia reciprocated the sanctions. This could be, in brief, what billion in the same period. On win? History now tells us that the happened regarding Ukraine, however, this does not prove how a smaller scale, the price of West has been unsuccessful in effective the sanctions imposed by the West have been and leaves buckwheat, the established bringing a close friend of Russia, another question: could these sanctions have been more effective? staple in less-developed parts Iran, to the negotiating table. of Russia, increased by nearly Iran, like Russia, relies heavily on 28% in February, according to oil and gas exports. Iran finally ow ffective re hey H E A T ? the Federal Statistics Service. yielded when the West targeted Since the beginning of the the oil price declines to $60 per Sanctions are hurting; however, its money transfer and banking year, sanctions and the fall of barrel, the economy will have their effect is not strong enough system. Without the ability to oil and gas prices have seen the negative growth.” to make such a great difference. transfer money easily, selling rouble plummet 23% and 30% The question of whether Nikolay Mezhevich, a professor oil and gas would do Russia no against the Euro and the US sanctions have been effective is of European Studies at St. good. After all, what is the use Dollar respectively. Russia has not yet answered. The Russian Petersburg State University, of money that cannot be spent, Graph 2 Author: www.tradingeconomics.com | federal state statistics service spent $70 billion of its foreign economy is trembling mainly believes the sanctions were not withdrawn, or transferred? Iran reserves to avoid economic because of the price of oil. effective at all; believing 2% did the same: It sold its oil to collapse. A weak rouble may not Sanctions have been effective, of rouble devaluation is due to China and India, but was paid be that bad for the Kremlin as but perhaps not enough to make sanctions, 98% due to the oil in gold, a difficult currency to it can obtain more roubles for the Kremlin change its policies. market. transport. In some cases, the its oil, but that comes with a Oil prices have fallen due to money was blocked for months. Imposing sanctions on SWIFT side effect: more inflation. The many factors: Iraq has held Could They Be More Effective? inflation rate, which stands at its production steady, Libyan banking transfers was the last Russia relies substantially 8%, will probably rise to 9% production was revived and straw, making any international on its oil and gas revenues in by the end of the year, in sharp Chinese demand has decreased. transaction impossible. Iran was its yearly budget. Half of the contrast to the Central Bank's Russia was unlucky not to be on its knees and finally agreed to Kremlin's revenue comes from target of 5%. The Central Bank able to forecast this. Russia’s take further measures regarding oil and gas exports, which of Russia is aware of this fact debt to GDP ratio is one of the transparency of its nuclear constitute more than 60% of and made a record-low injection the lowest in the world, which program. its total exports. Given that the of $1 billion into the market in means the government should The West can do the same Russian government loses $1.4 November to control the rouble not be worried about cumulative with Russia but it seems that billion in revenue for every dollar and is trying to float the rouble debt. (Graph 2) they are satisfied with the decrease in the price of oil per on the global currency market. Russia’s Stabilisation Fund, severity of sanctions. They were litre, sanctions have so far been The International Monetary a legacy of the former Finance enough strong to show that a contributing factor to cripple Fund, however, has already Minister of Russia Alexei Kudrin further Russian intervention in Russia’s economy though the warned Russia that this policy that was later divided into the eastern Ukraine would not go global drop in oil has contributed will not save the country’s Reserve Fund and the National unpunished, but not so strong as more. This is mainly because the economy from the aftermath of Wealth Fund, is a good shield to cripple the Russian economy West needs Russian oil and gas the drop in oil prices and its June to defend against sanctions. In to the point of no return. A Graph 3 Author: Eastern Block Energy, U.S. Energy Information Administration and also because Russia has a 30th survey, which warned of November, the Reserve Fund case in point was the comment loyal energy customer in China. short- and medium-term growth held almost $90 billion and the of German Chancellor Angela In May, Russia's Gazprom inked slowdowns, now seems justified. National Wealth Fund held Merkel made in early November a $400-billion contract with (Graph 1) more than $80 billion. The when she said that the European Chinese National Petroleum With the price of Brent Reserve Fund’s sole purpose is Union did not have any plans Company (CNPC) to deliver exports to the EU flows through change its policies in the near crude oil plummeting by nearly to defend oil and gas revenues to impose more sanctions upon about 38 billion cubic meters of pipelines in Ukraine, it would be future. What seems to be one-third to below $80 per barrel against fluctuation and decrease Russia. A quarter of the EU’s natural gas annually to Northern unreasonable to upset the flow. weakening the country is the this year, the economy of Russia volatility by investing in low-risk, supply of gas comes from Russia China for 30 years, beginning in (Graph 3) coincidence of sanctions with is facing an uncertain, grim low-yield securities. and the fact that Gazprom 2018. This contract, plus another The sanctions imposed the drop in oil prices, which future. “Recession is inevitable The effect of the sanctions reduced its export to Ukraine by less valuable contract signed in upon Russia have had their might be considered a boon for in 2015 if the situation worsens,” on the economy is indisputable. almost three-fifths could be seen November, are unmistakable effects; some more effective the West, since further sanctions Russia's Finance Minister, Anton According to Bloomberg, in as a threat to the EU. Bearing in signs that Russia has already in the long term but not so may not be required. Siluanov, said last month, “If the month of July, no Russian mind that 80% of Russian gas begun securing its future and effective as to make the country

history to fall apart and require either demolition or renovation. Citizens have The project is non-profit and does not have official employees; only Surviving city mixed feelings about this situation. Some think that time demands volunteers. Dmitry Litvinov says: "We need a little money. If we print modernisation, but many are opposed to such a radical change and out flyers or work on promotional material, we pay out of pocket." aria M IVANOVA urge to preserve the historical centre. This has lead to the creation For Dmitry Litvinov and his companions, protection of the St. Petersburg, with a population of about five million people, of a variety of non-governmental organisations. image of the city has a great ideological significance: "We want to is considered one of the most important economic and political 'Living city' is one of these organisations. Over seven years, do something for St. Petersburg. We would not want the city to centres of Russia. Citizens and tourists mostly appreciate its they have been fighting for the preservation of historic buildings. become one of those new, modernized cities, the appearance of cultural charms. Since 1990, the historic centre of the city is under "In our case, we are not talking about saving individual buildings. which is determined almost exclusively by skyscrapers and other the special protection of UNESCO. This means that because of Rather we would like to preserve buildings surrounding symbols modern buildings. St. Petersburg has a history full of tradition and it its uniqueness the image of the city as a whole belongs to the of the city so that the overall look of the city remains unchanged. is reflected in the image of our buildings.” world cultural heritage. A large skyscraper behind St. Isaac's Cathedral is not suitable for Over the past few years, more than 200 objects of historical As time goes by, the city changes every day. Old buildings start St. Petersburg", - says Dmitry Litvinov, one of about 50 activists. significance have been demolished, especially in the city centre - six INTERNATIONAL EDITION FIRST LINE 3

René BOSCH politics

Welcome23 years ago, the USSR dissolved, leaving Russia on its own. Is it changingto again? the New-SSR? he 9th of May is a big the opinions articulated by the Still, this threat is not only 20%, affecting a broad selection fundamental opposition to elections of St. Petersburg date for Russians. Every governments of Ukraine, the witnessed in economic sanctions of media outlets, for example Vladimir Putin. “Nobody thinks told us about the apathy of year, the military shows European Union and the United and political posturing between the English-language Moscow of the kind of Russia they want people during the last years: T “We were setting up meetings its power by parading through States of America. “We become the European Union and Russia, Times. The Russian-language to have as a partner or just on the Moscow, commemorating the stronger, they are scared of but also in the language used version of CNN, a US news global map in 2025”, Gavra says. to beautify the gardens in our victory against Nazi Germany, us and our president,” Natalia in different newspapers, TV- network, has already announced For him, the strong affiliation neighbourhood; it had nothing building a bridge between the (47), owner of a small business stations or Internet magazines. its intention to withdraw from between the person of Vladimir to do with big politics”, she told strength of the Red Army tells us on the streets of St. In less than one year, the tone the Russian market. Popular Putin and Russian society is not us. The first time, she said, three in the Second World War to Petersburg. This desire to see between the countries has Russian-language magazines a relic of soviet times, but part people showed up. The second the Russian armed forces Russia as a major global power changed dramatically, peaking such as GEO or GEO of Russia’s identity. “There are time there was only one person. What Russian society shows today. This year, the bridge seems to be stronger than ever in the newest statements of Traveller could be affected two white poles, the national right now is neither a clearly between the golden age of the among ordinary citizens. In a Mikhail Gorbachev, warning of too. Even though the current leader, either it is the Tsar, the survey conducted a new Cold War. "The world is Russian system with the new general secretary by PEW Global, on the brink of a new Cold War. laws implemented is far from or perhaps – I 61% of Russians Some say it has already begun", pre-Glasnost and Perestroika don´t know – the agree that some Gorbachev stated at a ceremony censorship, the “golden age” president on the of the territories marking the fall of the Berlin Wall of Russian journalism, from the one hand, and the of neighboring in November. Commentators all beginning of the 90s to the mid public opinion on countries actually over the world picked up such 2000s, appears to be long gone. the other hand. belong to Russia, pronouncements, referring to Strangely unrelated to And in between, while only 26% see the historical conflict between the limitations of foreign coloured in black, the Russian image the western NATO-states and investments in Russian media, any kind of as having been the Soviet Union’s Warsaw Pact. the government is investing bureaucracy.” damaged by Putin’s After a phase of convergence millions into the state-funded This distrust politics regarding of East and West, opinions are RT – Russia Today – recently of executive forces the Crimean crisis. heading in the direction of bloc opening a German-language by Russian society, It seems that thinking again, an argumentation version of their station, based in which can be traced after the years of that seemed to be forgotten a Germany. Even though RT has back to Tsarist transformation long time ago. Nevertheless, partly demonstrated a willingness times, makes it between 1991 and there are forces on both sides to show other perspectives especially hard to 1992 and the severe hoping to secure healthy of political procedures in establish a self- cooperation between the East and multiple-level Mikhail Gorbachev and Ronald Reagan economic crisis of foreign countries, their aim of Vladimir Putin and Barack Obama Author: Blog - A Disgruntled Republican in Nashville 1998, the majority and the West. “providing the missing part” – governed society Author: NY Daily News of ordinary citizens wish to “Europe is richer than seems to stand in harsh contrast in Russia. Even official state conservative, nor a purely Soviet Union and the Russian see their country reclaim the just European Liberalism and to Russian domestic policies elections are often seen as unfair, progressive desire. It is stuck Federation became even closer, international role the USSR once Russian Conservatism”, Mikhail regarding foreign media. manipulated or unnecessary, somewhere between a search with President Putin visiting had, including annexations of Tyurkin (30), a journalist for the Still, the huge amount of and the government doesn´t for and establishment of a the newest federal subject, the now foreign soil. St. Petersburg-based newspaper comparisons of the Russian make it easy for the people to new identity and the desire for Republic of Crimea. While This new role has defined Nevski Times (nvspb.ru) tells Federation in 2014 and the trust the establishment again. integration into a westernized, the Donbas Region was still itself more and more in the us. Tyurkin reported directly Soviet Union are rather lopsided. In the recent local elections capitalist cultural world. The struggling in a civil war, Russian last 20 years, leaving a taste of from Kiev when the conflicts Despite ongoing direct and in St. Petersburg for example, events of the Crimean crisis show jets were flying over the Crimean retrospective and nostalgia. began to worsen in January. In indirect state intervention in the candidates had to collect the clearly demonstrate one side, coast with warships parading Cleavages between the West and his opinion, the murmurings media industry, both freedom signatures of 10% of the eligible while discount shopping nights in honor of the President’s Russia regarding international about a new Cold War and a of speech and freedom of voters, just to make it onto the in the centre of St. Petersburg visit. Putin, celebrating what politics seem to be widening renaissance of two ideological movement are not nearly as ballot, a regulation that makes show the other. There are still Western observers see as an again; the time of convergence blocs reflects the behaviour harshly persecuted as they were it hard for “newcomers” to get signs of Soviet thinking, but illegal annexation, brought back seems to be over. Starting of both Russian and Western in the darkest time of the Soviet into politics outside of the big the force of development can the resemblance to Soviet times, with the Kosovo conflict, the media. “We took the exam for Union. While the Russian rouble party. Moreover, members of be seen in every part. “Russia is triggering many commentators eastward expansion of NATO objectivity. And we all got very is facing a severe loss of value the opposition complained not moving slowly basically, Russia to write about a “new Cold War” and the Russo-Georgian War, bad grades”, Tyurkin states. compared to both the US dollar only about this procedure, but used a couple of opportunities and a comeback of Soviet-era observers can´t help but seeing “Instead of trying to understand and the euro at the moment, the also claimed unfair treatment and it misused a couple of thinking. The recent events in Russia and USA as renewed each other, media outlets only current economic crisis cannot under the new regulation. opportunities,” Dimitri Gavra Ukraine, the reaction from both adversaries. This polarisation search for proof of their already be compared to the “Rouble But even besides the laws, says. the West and Russia brings back is especially frightening to existing stereotypes,” he explains Crisis” of 1998. the Russian society itself doesn´t Russia’s future won´t be one the question of where Russia international companies and further. According to Russian seem to be very open-minded full of waving red flags, hard stands, and more importantly, entrepreneurs, who see the While the journalist sees sociologist Dimitri Gavra, the with regard to self-governance. international rhetoric, and a where it is going. A question nascent geopolitical situation as great efforts of the Russian ongoing comparison of Russian It still persists in old patterns, renaissance of retrospect ideas. that hasn´t been as pressing counterproductive. While bigger civil society to understand society to the Soviet Union trusting the leader, distrusting But it also won´t be one of complete European integration, as it is now in the last 20 years. companies have the ability to the European way of life, the is too short-sighted. Gavra, the bureaucracy, hoping for the enhanced press freedom and First of all, Russia stands absorb the consequences of the government appears to support who released his book Russia best to come from the top down. ongoing conflicts, smaller firms, this mutual understanding only on its way to a Civil Society? In an interview conducted in progressive political liberty. It is behind its President. Most especially with connections in a unidirectional way. Recently, Studies of self-governing in St. September, Elena Belokurova, best described by a term often Russians supported the to the European Union, are President Putin signed a law Petersburg in 2000, not only member of the Russian heard when speaking to average repatriation of the Crimean suffering from what they call an to reduce the percentage of rejects the comparison with the Democratic Party “Yabloko” Russians: Russia’s future will be Region, in strong contrast to existential threat. ownership in Russian media to Soviet Union, but also the West’s and candidate in the 2014 local the special Russian way.

of them on Nevsky Prospect alone. Due to some changes in the to demolish the building in their neighbourhood or on their street. law and a growing number of residents’ protests, the number of However, activists fight for the idea of conservation of the historical demolitions is decreasing. However, for the historically important overview of the whole city, at least of individual buildings. Dissimilar Rogov House, actions were not enough. In 2010, there was an motives lead to problems of communication, so the motivation to attempt to demolish the building, it was damaged, and last year it was take part in the protests is reduced." demolished completely. Some politicians and activists of 'Living city' Time, weather, the state, citizens - all change the look of St. tried to stop the demolition to no avail. Petersburg although for different reasons and with different aims. The building became a victim of modernisation. "First of This discussion seems to be endless. Such organisations as 'Living all, the problem is to mobilise people," - says 31-year-old Anisa city' are gatekeepers for businessmen seeking only profit. Though not Khokhlov, professor of sociology at St. Petersburg State University. every building can be saved, organisations like 'Living city' remind us She explains: "Often people begin to act only when their personal that the beauty of St. Petersburg is definitely worth fighting for. interests are affected. They are active only when somebody is going Author: Maria Ivanova 4 FIRST LINE INTERNATIONAL EDITION

Matthew VOABON economics A New World Order One BRIC At A Time and Syria have revived bygone rhetoric in both the media and in political discussion, highlighting the schism between the West and the Rest. The BRICS had initially hoped to forge a new world order; one no longer dominated by the will of Wall Street. The New Development Bank (NDB), based in Shanghai, is the BRICS' answer to developmental institutions like the World Bank or the International Monetary Fund that is considered a major step to the “de-dollarisation” of the world economy, according to the Centre of Research and Globalisation (CRG). Russian President Vladimir Putin is also due pay the “I” in the acronym, India, a visit this month. He is hoping to strengthen bilateral cooperation on energy, defence and direct rouble to rupee trade. The 15th annual bilateral summit will see the new Indian Prime Minister, Narendra Modi, meeting Putin for the first time in the face of Western sanctions. Moscow has banned most Western food imports, worth $9 billion a year, motivating an increase in imports from Brazil. According to the Brazilian Association for Animal Protein, the Latin American country exported 20,900 metric tons of chicken

Brazil, Russia, India, China and South Africa: five major emerging national economies Author: Instituto Brasileiro de Geografia e Estatística to Russia in September alone, registering a massive 291% increase in imports. ith the tumbling finding friendly food suppliers, grouping was a non-starter but the works for Russian nuclear November, Russian and Chinese The 'BRICS' was formed rouble dominating it rather points to a fundamental as the relationship between energy company, Rosatom to business and political interest thanks to their meteoric success headlines and shift in world order; the Rest Moscow and the West build eight new nuclear power took centre stage. According to W in the commodity-thirsty decade the grip of sanctions ever- versus the West. The group deteriorates the value of the stations in the sub-Saharan state. the International Committee of preceding this one but it is in tightening, South Africa has made up by emerging markets; BRICS bond might not be totally This though is negligible in the Fourth International (ICFI) the hard times where they will begun exporting seafood to Brazil, Russia, India, China and lost to the pages of Wikipedia. comparison to trade with the the state-dominated Russian find their identity. The NDB Russia for the first time in South Africa, or the BRICS as According to the Russian other, larger members of the energy firm, Gazprom stated is not exclusive and nor is the almost two decades. Twelve they are commonly known, met Embassy website, representative clique. Moscow's aim to expand that it was prepared to build a BRICS which is looking to licenses have been granted to separately in Brisbane to discuss in the South African capital its economic cooperation Siberian pipeline connecting possibly expand to include companies from the African strengthening their ties as a Pretoria, the trade relations with Asia is demonstrated by Russian gas to China. Alexei the MINT countries (MINT state to supply canned and backdrop to of late November's between the two nations has significant developments with Miller, Gazprom's deputy being an acronym referring frozen fish, as Russia is forced to G20 Summit in the Australian never been better with bilateral the biggest of the BRICS, China. chairman, commented that to the economies of Mexico, diversify its suppliers as relations city. Most of the commodity- trade between the two countries According to the news platform Russia might be supplying more Indonesia, Nigeria, and Turkey). with the European Union and driven BRICS nations have soaring by 22.1% during the Ground Report, Sino-Russian gas to China than it does to the Russia will assume the position the United States have soured been struggling with sluggish period January to November trade totalled US$89 billion in European Union in the near of the BRICS Chair with the over the situation in Ukraine. economic growth in recent 2013, reaching over US$1- 2013 and US$43 billion in the future. Last year, China became next summit to be held in the These new fish imports years and plagued by near- billion, as compared to the first half of 2014. At the Asia- Russia’s most important trading city of Ufa in the Republic of illustrate something much greater institutionalised corruption, same period the year before. A Pacific Economic Cooperation partner, replacing Germany. Bashkortostan, in July 2015. than just Moscow frantically many have suggested the further US$10 Billion deal is in (APEC) forum in Beijing in The situations in Ukraine

history However, politics comes tournament to a higher level Tensions, which two months match, into playing the game. Chess on the brink of war unsaid. than what is actually was. after the tournament’s end, In Sochi 2014, Magnus One hundred years ago, For example, the newspaper would lead to the First World Carlsen and Putin sat next to Jakob CHOR politics and chess went hand-in- Kopeika forecasted, "the noble War. each other at the concluding hand, when the world’s chess elite game of chess" would "promote ceremony. Spassky was there The world world’s best chess player by gathered for a tournament at the the idea of world peace", noted as well, as a reminder from the championships of chess repeating last year's achievement Spassky as reminder “St. Petersburg Chess Society”. the BBC in an essay about the past: Chess is also politics. was held in Sochi amid an of beating Indian chess legend The tournament was prestigious; 1914 tournament. During the Cold War, As if that was not enough, international political crisis. Vishy Anand. Russian president drawing attention from all over At that time, Europe was on politics influenced chess again, in a magician opened the chess The same happened 100 Vladimir Putin visited Sochi and the world. Even Tsar Nicholas II the brink of war. the legendary game between St. games with a white pigeon and years ago in St. Petersburg congratulated the 23-year-old visited the games. That fact had already spread Petersburg-born Boris Spassky black pigeon. with a dreadful future to winner. As the tournament began into the tournament: Some of and American Bobby Fischer. follow. “I’ll probably not get to talk on April 21, and lasted through the Austrian-Hungarian players The game was played in Iceland On November 23rd, to him about politics at least,” May 22, 1914 reporters had had to decline their invitations in 1972, after Secretary of State Norwegian Magnus Carlsen Carlsen told vg.no before the plenty of time to take the chess because of tensions with Russia. Henry Kissinger actually talked defended his title as the concluding ceremonies. Fischer, who would later win the INTERNATIONAL EDITION FIRST LINE 5

Stray Animals in St. Petersburg Nataliia René SMOLN E TCEVA BOSCH Kyoka ONO historical feature St. Petersburg is a beautiful circumstances. Some of them city full of stunning architecture have lost their owners and and clean streets. However, one others have been confiscated. blemish on the city’s appearance Not long ago the timber wolf Dissolution of the USSR is the presence of many stray came to the shelter. He had (continued from page 1) dogs. According to statistics, been living in a cage in a parking in March of 1992 showed that the Donbass Region right now. and a social environment that would have to pay for it or not, in St. Petersburg, there were garage near a carwash around 66% of respondents regretted Officials signing a paper - that was free in the USSR. In those if we could afford it or not. around 10,000 stray dogs in Kupchino station. He was used the dissolution of the USSR. In wasn´t that important for us at new times, we weren´t sure if we 2008. In comparison, the Tokyo for advertisement, however 2000 this number rose to 75%, If you look at Russia before, during and after the state animal shelter rescued 789 his conditions were so bad while a recent poll indicated dissolution of the Soviet dogs in 2012, far fewer animals that someone called the police. a rather low level of regret; Union: What survived the for a city over twice as large. Finally, he was brought to the 54%. The lowest one was two transformation? In order to learn more about Fidelity animal shelter. years ago, when only 49% of A. S.: The politics regarding this phenomenon and why the respondents longed for a return our social environments stood situations are so different, First Legal aspects to the Soviet past. Japan and Russia have very practically the same. Line investigated the laws and This regret is nothing different legal approaches to S. S.: Everything changed! Only regulations surrounding the unusual if we think of how this dealing with the problem of the drunk people, the bad treatment of stray animals. major political event transformed roads and the idiots stood the stray animals. Abandoning a the lives of ordinary people, same! (laughs). Everything else Animal shelters in St. pet is a crime in Japan. People their economic and social reality. changed. Petersburg and Japan who abandon their pet will be Many people who were raised In St. Petersburg there are no fined roughly 1,000,000 yen, and planned their lives according Today, there is again a state-governed animal shelters. equivalent to about 380,000 to the Soviet framework had to situation where inflation The only private ones operate roubles. Also there is a law of adjust to a new capitalist reality. is increasing, the rouble is with public funding. There are 3 humane treatment and handling The family of Alla and dropping and it doesn´t look animal shelters in St. Petersburg. of animals. The purpose of Sergey Smolentcev were about like changing soon. What “Poteryashka” is one of them. the law is to prevent animals is your advice for young to have a child when the Soviet To date, they have helped find from causing an infringement parents today who are afraid Union was dissolved. In the new owners for 12,000 animals. on the life, body or property of the future? uthor ené osch In Japan there is at least of humans by providing for following interview, they discuss Everyday people: Smolencev family A : R B S. S.: You can´t really compare one state animal shelter in each matters concerning the handling their feelings, expectations and the two situations. It´s true, the prefecture. Usually animals of animals. While law protects worries from those momentous that time. majority actually wanted to stay. rouble is falling right now, but protected by the state are kept animals, state animal shelters are days. A. S.: It wasn´t a specific date. It More or less, our generation back then the rouble was falling for 3-7days. If there is no permitted to euthanize strays. was more the period connected lost the faith in tomorrow, even dramatically, we had millions of The Soviet Union was owner to claim them, they are In Russia there is no specific with the coup in Moscow. There resulting in a drop in the birth roubles and they were worth dissolved by the Supreme euthanized. According to the law that protects animals. There Soviet on December 26th were a lot of demonstrations rate at the beginning of 90s. nothing. Right now, the situation statistics of stray dogs in 2012, is only an article in Criminal 1991. Do you remember that and events in Moscow and it was isn´t severe. You shouldn´t 22.6% of dogs were returned Code that forbids cruelty date? broadly covered by the media. Nevertheless, you were worry. pregnant in 1991, giving to their owners, 23.9% of dogs towards animals. However, in St. Alla Smolentceva: 1991 or 1992? I can specifically remember A. S.: The situation right birth in June 1992. Did found new owners and 53.6% of Petersburg there is a resolution, the attack on the parliament in now doesn´t really bother us this pregnancy change dogs were put to sleep. “On the concept of attitude to 1991. August ´91. personally, only if we want to A. S.: No, I can´t remember that your perception of things stray animals” which provides go abroad, or buy something Visiting Animal Shelter date, I couldn´t even say the year. What was your expectation happening? humane treatment of stray A. S.: I didn´t work in this period, from other countries. But if “Fidelity” It´s too long ago to say exactly of the future in this time? animals and forbids killing I was staying at home so I can´t you earn money in roubles and The large number of what I did back then. A. S.: We had no idea what the them”. Stray animals are not say a lot about the working you spend money in roubles, it stray dogs in St. Petersburg is future could bring. We just disposed of as they are in Japan. Is there another specific date lost every feeling of stability environment. The things I can is the inflation rate that worries alarming. Not only is life in the streets dangerous to their out of this period that you we had during the Soviet talk about is the medical care me more. Towards a better future health, it also puts humans remember? Union. We were both working and the food supply. The first As demonstrated by the Human behaviour is likely Sergey Smolentcev: The signing at state funded organisations, one was practically the same as words of those who actually at risk. Authorities seem not to be the most powerful force of the document was only and nobody knew if we could it was in the USSR; the second lived through the death throes consider it a priority to solve behind dog population dynamics. an official confirmation of continue pursuing our careers. one was drastically worsening of the Soviet Union, great the issue, private organisations The International Companion everything that had happened Besides, we didn´t think of the with less food in the shops. That political changes and massive sometimes step in – with the Animal Management Coalition in the previous two years. The changes being that big. We knew worried me. And still, I had all upheavals make headlines and help of volunteers. “Fidelity” recommends that measures be dissolution of the Soviet Union the Soviet Union was dissolving, the instability in my mind and fill the pages of history books, was founded in 2009 to help taken to control the size of the was a huge process, changing but at the same time thought was concerned about that. but some things always remain animals in distress. In addition dog population, and encourages everything we had. At this the same. Countries change and to more than 20 dogs, the shelter responsible ownership. that the new union of states Were you fearful for your time, we were afraid of a total would be practically equal to the governments fall but the realities keeps other animals too; a pig, a Addressing the problem in St. fragmentation of our country child’s future? of everyday life often remain the fox, a raccoon, a wolf, a timber Petersburg will certainly require old one. A. S.: I wasn´t generally afraid of into small regions, for example same. wolf and two bears. action by the government itself S. S.: There was also the Natalia’s future. But there were I remember talks about creating The animals arrive at also, though. referendum asking weather things like education, the schools, Siberian or Uralic republics, like people wanted to USSR, and a the shelter from various Estonia Lithuania Latvia Azerbaijan Georgia Russia

1990 1988 1989 1989 1989 1990 1991 December 21 June 12 December 26 November April July September May Boris Yeltsin created a August 18-21 8 other f ormer Dissolution of position of President August Putsch republics—all except The Soviet Union of RSFSR and was Georgia—joined C IS elected for it. and signed t he Do you consider the preservation of the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics as Alma-Ata Protocol a renewed federation of equal sovereign republics in which the rights and freedom of an individual of any nationality will be fully guaranteed necessary? March 17 December 08 December 25 Referendum about Leaders of R ussia, 76% 24% the future of USSR Ukraine, and Belarus Resignation of secretly e stablish Mikhail Gorbachev, Commonwealth of last leader of the Independent S tates USSR, Boris Yeltsin YES NO came into power

The Dissolution throughout the time Author: Elena Campos 6 FIRST LINE INTERNATIONAL EDITION

the National Library of Russia, diplomatic dead ends fail to fully in the Duma. The government situated on Nevsky Prospekt capture. now has the power to ban any Richard in downtown St. Petersburg, website without explanation. ENO S R announced it was working The RuNet and political Bloggers with an audience of society freedom on an "alternative" online The Internet in Russia has over 3,000 readers must register encyclopaedia for Russians. always been relatively open, with the government as a "mass This new site will not be although how long it stays media institution". Foreign Logged off: How Putin's user-edited, but instead edited this way is a matter for debate. social networking sites such as by the Russian state. Unnamed The RuNet, as it is known, is Facebook and Twitter must now Internet keeps Russia out of the curators will compose articles dominated by domestic websites store all Russian user data on using 50,000 books and such as Yandex and VKontakte, Russian soil and hand it over to global conversation documents collected from 27 which were available in the the government upon request. different libraries. The National Russian language long before In 2014, a year when relations Library’s director, Anton with the West have rapidly eneath all of the As with many Western Internet idealists like Wikipedia their Western equivalents Likhomanov, says Wikipedia deteriorated, Putin's anti-Internet Buzzfeed articles and cat dreams, Russia has other ideas. co-founder Jimmy Wales. At a provided the option. Despite is "incapable of providing rhetoric has reached fever pitch. pictures, many people Not because Russia is evil, but September conference in Kiev, a relatively low level of online B information" about Russian life. In April, the president accused in the West share an idealistic simply because Russia has its Wales criticised the "heavily interaction between Russia and Likhomanov says the library the Internet of being a "special Internet fantasy. The dream is own websites, thank you very influenced" and "government- the wider world, Russian is now has no desire to try to improve CIA project". In September he that websites such as Wikipedia, much. The number one website controlled" Russian media. the most widely used language the over one million articles worried over Russia's "digital Facebook, YouTube and Google in Russia is a search engine, but "The only hope for a free on the web after English. that already exist in Russian on sovereignty" and alleged that can bring people around the it is not Google: it is Yandex. Russian media today comes Internet use in Russia Wikipedia, which he describes has skyrocketed from 8% of looming Western sanctions as "controlled from the United Russians using it at least once a could include blocking Russia's States". week in 2006 to almost 60% in access to the Internet. Putin has What might a Kremlin-edited 2013. While Russia's economy even raised the idea of a "self- alternative to Wikipedia look stagnates, its Internet market sufficient RuNet", a domestic like? We already have some idea, grows 10% each year. More and Internet that shuts off access because government computers more Russians are getting their to foreign websites "in cases of have made over 7,000 edits to news online: Yandex News is emergency". This suggestion Russian Wikipedia articles in the now more popular and profitable rightly worries the many Russians past decade. The edits include than many TV stations. This who take Internet freedom the page on the Vietnam War, as kind of growth poses serious seriously. well as numerous other pages on questions for a government Recent events may have Russian politicians and Russian accustomed to a tight grip on the convinced Putin to reconsider his history. Most famously, the one country’s media. stance on the Internet. He has on Flight MH-17, which stated When he came to power seen how the flow of information the Malaysian Airlines plane in 2000, Vladimir Putin made online enabled people to act had been shot down by Russian a promise to preserve Internet against their government not separatists, was changed in July freedom in Russia. It is a only in the Arab Spring and Vladimir Putin is slowly warming to the idea of Internet censorship. Author: www.prospektmag.com from a Russian government promise that, to the shock of the Ukrainian uprising, but IP address to instead read: many observers, he has generally particularly the 2011-12 "Snow world together to start a new RuTube, the Russian YouTube, is from grass-roots media, it comes "the plane was shot down by kept. Unlike in television Revolution" protests in Russia. global dialogue. Cultural and a popular video-sharing website from Wikipedia," he said. "It Ukrainian soldiers". and newspaper media, online Many of these Russians who national divides can be broken owned by Gazprom. Four per comes from bloggers who are It is one thing to edit a commentators remain relatively rallied for greater democracy cent of Russians aged 9-16 have blogging, on platforms that are down as people share, inform Wikipedia article, but seeking free to say what they want. share the West’s dream of a a Facebook account, but 93% not within Russia." and debate important ideas. to move the conversation away Moscow has not taken the same global online community that have an account on VKontakte, Wales argued that global Societies will modernise, nations from a global, user-moderated path of censorship as China. spreads information and ideas in now owned by close associates sites like Wikipedia must exist will democratise, the Internet will platform to one administered by However, Putin's a globalised world. After a brief of Vladimir Putin. When it as an avenue for dialogue so set us free. For this fantasy to the state is another thing entirely. unwillingness to regulate the glimpse of this dream, Putin is comes to the Internet, Russia is that alternative ideas can spread, become reality, everybody on the Russia’s cloistered Internet Internet is beginning to fade. taking Russia in the opposite hanging out in a different part circumventing "top-down planet would simply need to use landscape signifies a level of Last year a series of online direction. of town to the rest of the world. propaganda" from the Kremlin. the same websites and participate wilful international isolation censorship laws were introduced in the same conversation. This is all bad news for Two months after this statement, that falling trade statistics and

Petersburg is not. But there are also be pretty cold in winter, but and too dirty and too cold” nice things here too: everything because of the dirty roads. “In said Josh. “But once they start Natalia is mostly flat, and I have never winter, the main problem is not cycling they find it a much better SMOLN E TCEVA encountered ice on the roads,” snow and wind, but mud on the option”. society he said and added, “so far”. road and salt and chemicals they Currently the city’s As for ice, the Russian use”, said Anya. administration has a plan to winter still remains one of the More than the laws and build 200 km of bicycle paths by Far from bicycle paradise? biggest obstacles for cyclists in rules, people’s attitude towards 2025, according to the transport In recent years cycling has become more and more popular in St. Petersburg, despite strategy published the ever-present Russian “bad roads and crazy drivers”. Currently about one third of St. on their official Petersburg residents have a bicycle. If one is comparing cities, Copenhagen is a place website, with where 4 out of 5 citizens have a bike and in Amsterdam there are 1.3 bikes per resident. 16 new bicycle Both Amsterdam and Copenhagen have around 400 km worth of cycling paths versus St. routes planned to Petersburg, which has only 25 km of bike paths despite being 7-8 times bigger. connect residential districts to downtown. Bicycle yclists mostly have create a bad image of bikers” your bike on the street can be activists from to ride on the road said his girlfriend Anya, who risky, even though new places the organisation Calong with cars in St. has been cycling since last to park have appeared this last Velosipedisation Petersburg and often face spring. According to the law, summer. “I saw some robbers are working disrespect and even disdain from it is forbidden to cycle on the myself and even confronted one together with the drivers. “Some car drivers are sidewalks though the fine is only person who came to cut the lock administration shocked when they see bicycle 500 roubles. on my bike once” tells Anya. She to help make on the roads, they don’t think of Anya and Danila live in the recommended buying a cheap this possible. counting it as equal transport on city-centre and prefer cycling to bike, because it is less likely to be But the first goal the road”; said Danila, who has any other means of transport stolen and lock it with the chain. is popularising been using a bike as a means of because it is cheaper, faster and St. Petersburg is much the idea that a transport for 3 years, although “gives them freedom”. “You are more bicycle-friendly than most bike can be an in his opinion “the attitude not depending from transport, other Russian cities, because alternative means has improved since 2011”. you can wake up at night and of its European character and of transport. This When cycling on the road go wherever you want”, said the quality of the roads, said is progress and it is essential to know the Danila. “In rush hours it is very Josh from Canada who has had Author: Natalia Smolentceva of course, St. traffic code. “Some bikers don’t convenient – you get home three experience of living and cycling About one third of St. Petersburg residents have a bicycle. respect rules themselves, don’t times faster”. in Samara. “There are cities Petersburg is still far from being the city. It is not only because cyclists is more important. “For a “bicycle paradise”, but if more know how to ride on the roads, Cycling is not only physically like Geneva or Amsterdam that of the temperature, because in many people the problem is the and they disturb others and dangerous in the city, but leaving are bicycle paradise, which St. citizens chose to cycle, the closer Netherlands and Denmark it can idea to ride a bicycle: it is tiring that paradise will be. INTERNATIONAL EDITION FIRST LINE 7

artist and his crude realistic Nights” of June set up the the highly humoristic tale. An counterpart, an officer, as both ambience and also help establish example is the scene where Ida start seeing two beautiful women the underrunning themes of Nikolai is pursued through the REIAI H N out and about on Nevsky. mental instability and madness. mists by the ringing hooves of culture Infatuated with the women, Away from the classics and the bronze statue of Peter the they one day follow them back towards more contemporary Great, itself an allusion to the to their lodgings; it is at this literary works, Andrei Bely’s literary tradition of the city that Reading Petersburg: very point that Petersburg steps Petersburg (1913) could have the book channels. in, mesmerizing and deceiving, been the first example of This short list is concluded Retracing Raskolnikov’s Steps beautiful and ugly at the same Modernism in England had it with Sergei Dovlatov’s The time. been translated into English Suitcase (1986). Set in a time exploration of the human oe Mooney could not be shortlist of what-to-read when “Everything is an illusion, sooner than 1959. A classic when the Russians were psyche. parted from his books. in St. Petersburg. everything is a dream, nothing in Russia, Petersburg must essentially disillusioned by JHe has a copy of Robert “The city’s built on a Set nearly exclusively in St. is as it seems!'” Joe recalls this be read in Russian to be fully the Soviet ideology, the book swamp...and the bones of those Petersburg, the story is filled Cowley’s “More What If?” line towards the end of Nevsky appreciated. Though Bely pokes fun at Soviet values who made it.” Joe says. A city with the city’s landmarks and as he sits down to enlighten Prospekt. penned Petersburg as prose, while simultaneously exploring that shouldn’t be there, but is. brims with its atmosphere, and me on Russian literature. He In the much-loved, much- it is nonetheless influenced by various locations within St. It should come as no once you’ve read it, you could was only fifteen when he read talked-about The Overcoat his identity as a poet and it is Petersburg through the shift surprise then that most tales actually see scenes as they played his first Russian masterpiece, (1842), Gogol introduces thus heavily rhythmic, full of in narrative perspective in the of St. Petersburg, set either out in the book. “Crime and Punishment” us to Akaky Akakievich, an alliterations and symbolism, course of eight chapters. Each in the city or on its outskirts, “I first visited Petersburg and was immediately drawn impoverished government clerk an effect normally lost in the chapter details how an item in have been largely influenced back in January 2012 and it to the richness of Russian and copyist in St. Petersburg, translation. the suitcase the author takes on by underrunning themes of struck me, walking through literature. Now the Oxford who is the butt of jokes in the Set in the days leading his exile to the United States madness, hallucinations, and areas described in the book, how alumnus is a master’s student office because of his threadbare up to the 1905 Revolution, it came into his possession. While “things not being as they seem”. weird and surreal it was retracing in Russian literature at St. overcoat. He seeks to replace it centres on Nikolai Ableukov, a chronologically speaking, the The city is a force in itself, the steps of these characters.” Petersburg State University; and from thereon the overcoat good-for-nothing self-assuming book is the last to have been protesting its “unnatural state.” When speaking of stories in the city where “Crime and becomes central to how the plot revolutionary young man who published, “read it first” Joe In Fyodor Dostoyevsky’s about St. Petersburg, one must Punishment” was mostly set. unravels. has been given the task of emphasizes, as it serves as an Crime and Punishment (1866), also talk of Nikolai Gogol’s “St. To know the city by heart, Both stories share not only assassinating his own father, a introduction to St. Petersburg, the protagonist, Raskolnikov Petersburg Tales”. In his short to understand its many layers, the same geographical setting highly-placed Tsarist official, the city of extremes. It shouldn’t is driven to murder by unseen story collection, the Ukrainian- its forces and its fears one must but also supernatural elements by planting a time-bomb in his be there but there it is, sitting forces that initially justify him born writer treats the city more read St. Petersburg, its many interwoven with the hard-boiled office. on a swamp, the bones, the and later begin to haunt him. as a character rather than a mere masterpieces, and then walk realism of the every-day life in Once again, St. Petersburg “unnatural” city of light and While on the surface, it could compilation of stone and wood. down the alleys those characters St. Petersburg. The “extremes is not merely a setting for the dark. be regarded as a detective Nesvky Prospekt (1835) once walked down. Joe has done of light and dark”, the night-like unfolding of the plot but comes story; it is essentially a powerful follows an aspiring romantic it and now he helps create a days of winter and the “White to life to play its own role in

Julia MAS RK culture "RUSSIA IN VOGUE" EXHIBITION LOOKS AT THE INFLUENCE OF RUSSIA THROUGH THE LENS OF THE MOST POPULAR FASHION MAGAZINE IN THE WORLD eaturing over a hundred in the 1990s, the boom of the photographs on two world coming into the former Ffloors of the Erarta Soviet Union and it was absolute museum St. Petersburg, madness.” “Russia in Vogue” marks Each photo exhibited shows 15 years of Russian Vogue. not only a beautiful image but While famous Russian has a description beside it that names and faces have been seen tells a story of how the image in the international “fashion was created, who was involved bible” for more than a century, and why. the Russian version of Vogue The photos are beautiful and only hit newsstands in the late impactful, which is no surprise 90s. “Russian in Vogue” curated given the reputation of Vogue. by Olga Sviblova, Multimedia The surprise comes once you Art Museum director and read the story behind the photo. founder of the Moscow House The project demonstrates how of Photography, portrays the leading Russian supermodels influence of Russia’s history and were, and still are, and how culture on the fashion and art the stories of the most iconic world. designers’ collections were “The main idea of the created under the influence of exhibition is to show how Russia and Russian culture. Russian culture itself influenced “The collection is not only not only famous Russian icons. for those who are interested The point is that Russian culture in fashion, it’s interesting for influenced the whole world of everybody because it shows how fashion in many directions and big the influence of Russian how famous Russians influenced culture can be on the world” world culture,” says Galina “Russia in Vogue” is at the Zhushman, manager of the Erarta museum, St. Petersburg, St. Petersburg exhibit, “When until December 15. Vogue Russian first came, it was

Author: Erarta Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Art 8 FIRST LINE INTERNATIONAL EDITION

Elena Miyu CAMS PO HRI ANO city life The whole world on a silver platter

Are these traditional? Author: Elena Campos Author: yisushibar.com

Margarita cocktail Author: Elena Campos Russian sushi Author: Carnegie Mellon University

You are what you eat, the famous saying goes. In St. Petersburg one could change this the most important elements as the most popular Japanese with various things that have to “You are what you assume you are eating” as this international tourist destination toys in Tequila-Boom’s cuisine is the food in the world: “sushi rolls”. their own strong flavour, such with the concept of national cuisines from all over the world and produces an international- staff. They will make you feel Most kinds of sushi rolls that as mayonnaise, cream cheese, Russian hybrid of far-away lands’ cuisines. Delicious, reasonably priced and so very and taste Mexico, Peru, Bolivia, have become popular in foreign ketchup and chili sauce. accessible, Mexican cuisine and Japanese sushi are among the foreign cuisines often Cuba and Ecuador. The chef is countries actually originated in the United States and not Japan. What is real sushi? enjoyed in the northern city. But are they authentic? Russian but has traveled several In Japan, cooks never wrap Each chain aims to serve their Elena Campos from Mexico and Miyu Hirano from Japan weighed in to give us their expert times to Mexico in order to rice in salmon, cucumber or own unique variety of sushi; views on how their national cuisines are represented in St. Petersburg. Both came up with learn real culinary techniques. other raw fish. Customers never some do crab rolls and cream interesting results. The sous-chef has also been eat sushi with cream cheese, cheese while others serve a to Mexico but he is from Peru ketchup, mayonnaise or other Philadelphia roll, wrapped in and his influence modifies sauces which have their own exican does not mean ex ex rice and salmon. M T -M ! traditional recipes. The dark unique flavors; they spoil the According to the result of t could be stated that The boundaries in the and something fancy, wild, skin color, warm reception and natural flavors of ingredients. surveys conducted by one of Mexican cuisine is one of international arena might be maybe even a little over-the- subtle attention to detail are, Unlike other types of rice, the biggest Japanese trading the most famous types blurred but UNESCO has top. Though the number of definitely, precious elements Japanese rice is very soft and I from this place. “The dark skin companies and Rossiyskaya of cuisines but there seems not proclaimed this as part of Mexican restaurants is indeed faintly sweet. Sushi is mainly Gazeta, Almost all cooks are to be a huge confusion –and the world’s intangible cultural quite small, Mexican cuisine color gives exotic atmosphere shaped by hand, not rolled. Russian, have never been to interpretation– of what should heritage. Tex-Mex originated in has nonetheless a very special to the restaurant and customers The rice ball should be soft Japan and have never tasted actually be considered as real southern Texas as an attempt place in the hearts of restaurant- have the feeling that they are in and chewy, maybe a little greasy. real Japanese sushi. These national Mexican cooking. by Mexican immigrants to goers in St. Petersburg. Saint Russia but at the same time in Fresh sashimi should be pleasant cooks compete with each other According to UNESCO, this recreate traditional dishes. It is Petersburgerians are willing Mexico” Farah added. on the tongue and have a melting by trying to make novel and cuisine comprises different common to refer to Tex-Mex to experience Latin rhythms, Tequila-Boom is not only a sensation in the mouth. Brewed original rolls. Russians enjoy rituals, culinary techniques, dishes as Mexican food but the hot dishes and crispy cocktails restaurant but also a community. soy sauce should have a tense, these sushi rolls as a reasonably- and age-old skills. These typical ingredients of both have at night and Tequila-Boom They organize parties every flavourful aroma of soybeans. priced fancy fast food often culinary practices portray a minimal similarities. qualifies as an authentic spot Friday and Saturday night. While In the mouth, the delicate paired with alcoholic drinks. cultural model of national Once you see the neon for it. listening to merengue or salsa, sweetness of rice and the tense In Japan however, sushi is identity where Mesoamerican greenish-reddish marquee, your The restaurant has real you should enjoy their popular flavour of sashimi should spread generally reserved for special cooking and Spanish elements world is about to change. Wood people with real emotions trying dishes and cocktail: Margarita evenly, and the flavour of wasabi occasions; special festivals, have been mixed in order to tables, bright colors, Mexican to satisfy high quality standards. and burrito. The cuisine is a should go straight to the nose. national holidays, birthdays or create world famous dishes. flags serving as wallpapers, The ingredients are not difficult cultural mix but “maybe we are Each grain of rice should look other celebrations, and it’s not The concept of Tequila- traditional decorations, to find and their leitmotif is to something multicultural, that is like a sparkling pearl, and the as reasonably priced as other Boom tries to communicate such as the Aztec calendar, depict Mexican food adapted not Mexican or Latin American bright colours of sashimi should foods. ‘Mexican-ness’ using stereotypes: and tablecloths covered in to the Russian customers. but we are an exotic experience be pleasing to the eye. This is Though there is no denying sombrero, poncho and dark bright vibrant hues create an Dishes must be appealing to to try” Farad concluded. real Japanese sushi. the popularity of sushi chains skin. I was hoping that instead atmosphere of coziness and Russian standards, although The “Russian” version in Russia, the nature of the of typical features, I would find warmth. It resembles a hut on misconceptions of the cuisine ushi ussian tyle of sushi may not be a terrible S , R S so-called Japanese food here fragments of the true Mexican the outskirts of Mexico City or influence the guests’ opinions n Russia, the first Japanese affront other than being needs to be addressed. Most identity. Located on the corner even better, a spitting image of and perceptions. “People always restaurant opened in 1990. anything but authentically ingredients used in sushi of Voznesensky Prospekt, the an ‘in-the-middle-of-nowhere’ think it is spicy so you have to Up until 1999, when the Japanese. Interestingly, St. restaurant brims with colourful chalet. give options that have the sauce I restaurants come not from first chain restaurants began Petersburg is now the city that Japan, but from Europe, Africa, spots, cozy tables, an abundance Tequila-Boom was is served on the side” the waiter, to appear, most Japanese has the highest number of China, Korea or Russia. One of vegetable appetizers, spicy established in 2002 in St. Farad, said. restaurants were very expensive, Japanese restaurants outside of could add the fact that Japanese garnishes, beans, chili soups and Petersburg, Russia and now they Sanctions have not and only wealthy people could Japan. One can only hope that products are almost always quite tacos. have a couple of branches in influenced the business as the afford to eat there. However people in St. Petersburg will one expensive. Soy sauce, nori (dried The adrenaline rush of the United States and Mexico. premium tequila, Don Julio, is as chain restaurants targeted day be able to enjoy genuine seaweed), wasabi and vinegars seeing so many authentic The menu includes fajitas with directly imported from Mexico general public from different Japanese cuisine. are also not made in Japan, but Mexican food names made me cheese and chorizo, tapas, and the meat from Argentina classes of the society, Japanese As our experts can attest, actually imported from China take a second look at the menu. nachos with chili sauce, cactus or Brazil. Their direct contracts cuisine became instantly popular. while the world’s cuisines exert and Korea, where they are far The chef might be confusing salad, cold shrimp entrees, with Latin American suppliers According to the Japanese a great influence on the menu cheaper. Mexican cuisine with Tex-Mex: burritos, corn with mayonnaise, allow them to maintain high External Trade Organization that is St. Petersburg’s restaurant Cooks and customers alike the most popular inventions spicy wings, quesadillas, quality standards and affordable (JETRO), Japanese restaurants scene, special attention must be don’t feel it is necessary to order of Mexican food in the United enchiladas, mole, guacamole, red prices since they are located in account for more than 37% of paid to find the best and most ingredients all the way from States namely burritos, nachos, beans and jalapeños, all prepared the opposite hemisphere. all restaurants in Russia, and this authentic fare. The options Japan as the natural flavour of fajitas, chili con carne, Tabasco with fidelity to the spirit of New With sharp flavours and a percentage is still increasing. available have evolved over ingredients is not of eminent sauce, Mexican pizza and wheat Mexico’s small cafeterias. mix of Peruvian, Spanish and But, are Russians being served the past two decades and the importance to them. This tortilla. These foods have come Long Russian winters Russian cuisine, this bright authentic Japanese food? future has challenges for those might originate from the fact to characterise our culinary awaken a need for the exotic; restaurant offers daily business Japanese restaurant chains seeking international culinary that the food served in Russian identity abroad. the inherent warmth of spices lunch for 290 RUB. One of normally serve what is perceived experiences. sushi restaurants are seasoned INTERNATIONAL EDITION FIRST LINE 9

Lina Victoria RUCHS Vzyatysheva city life Customer service – по русский here are a few things that described as being more genuine turn all appreciate the place for the town, often vegetarian or on Nevsky Prospect says that he roubles. It is also possible to the observant foreigner than in their home countries – its friendly, laid back atmosphere. vegan. Here, too, the service was paid 70 roubles per hour. At earn commission if your cash Tin Russia notices right but this is the exception to the Las Veggies is a vegetarian staff breaks with the stereotypes the same time he could have had desk takes in more than 10 after arrival. Amongst them rule. The majority has noted a bistro in the city centre. Their about Russian customer service. much more work than what you 000 roubles. Despite the huge is that casually smiling at quality of service worse than clientele seems to be the “We are not only co-workers, would expect for this money. volume of people and the high strangers is perceived as a bit that of their home country. ecologically-minded youth of but also friends. We all only “When you work at night, you tempo of work, the waitress odd, the customer isn’t actually Other positive notes go to are the only waiter for the whole says the atmosphere in Ledoviy always right and that ordering some of the Western-style café, so you need to receive is rather friendly. “A lot of something at a restaurant either chains or alternative places that orders, fill them, clean tables people going to the hockey can make your day or ruin it. specifically aim at the young and and at the same time you have are our regular clients; we have Customer service in Russia the open-minded. a big list of duties to do during been seeing them for 3 years. is definitely an experience. Anya works at one of the shift — to clean terrace, for If somebody says that the food Although Westerners and those places, the Market example.”, says Danil. is not hot — we reheat it, if he Russians alike probably Place on Vasilyevsky Island. According to him, the drops his coffee — we give him have noticed some drastic Between cupboards full of waiters’ behaviour is rigidly a new one. There are, of course, improvements and changes colourful vegetables and controlled at Coffeeshop. The some awful people who do not in attitude over the past 20 or Finnish cookbooks, she and company has its own code of understand rules. For example, so years, blaming it all on the her colleagues let you forget conduct, which must be learned at the end of a concert we can communist legacy isn’t the way that you are in Russia. The food before starting employment. It stop selling alcohol if the public to explain this phenomenon. is wannabe-international, the describes how you should greet gets rude and sometimes fans Wages and pressure are more coffee is served on Swedish- clients, which adjectives to use can get angry because of that. likely to explain bad service. designed trays. Anya confirms while offering them something, But we just tell them — it is A small survey among that the concept behind Market what you need to know about a rule of Ledoviy”, explains foreign students of the Place encourages staff to treat Things are a little different in Russia Author: Victoria Vzyatysheva the menu, how to get out of Natalya. journalism faculty at St. customers with kindness and make such a job nerve-racking end up working here because conflicts. To check the quality No doubt, things are a little Petersburg State University openness. But this isn’t about and exhausting. The average we know someone who already of service, which stands in direct different in Russia – including (most of whom are in Russia a clause in her contract or an shift of a Russian waiter in chain does,” explains Vika. The pay relation to the place’s rating and the customer service experience. for the first time) shows that instruction from her boss. She café lasts 8 to 13 hours (night might not be the best, but the in consequence the salary level, But it’s not all cultural. The customer service isn’t viewed does it because it feels right and shifts are usually longer), mostly team manages to make you feel every month there is a visit of conditions under which waiters as categorically bad. Many she likes her work. Her hourly on your feet but with a short welcome. secret customer. and waitresses work in St. foreigners experience kindness pay is nothing special, but Anya 15 to 30 minute lunch break. Things are a little different in Yet another work situation Petersburg –pressure, pay and and interest from customer says it’s appropriate by Russian For this you receive 70–90 St. Petersburg chain cafés. Strict for service staff can be observed atmosphere – make for totally service staff, often small, ethnic standards. The customers that roubles per hour plus tips and rules of behaviour, constant in cafés in big centres. Natalya different customer experiences. places that presumably don’t come to Market Place, from sometimes a small bonus. supervision by administrators, Tovkun is a barman in the have very many foreign guests. students to babushkas, island Danil Danshin, who used to low salary and huge flow of “Ledoviy dvorec” sports arena. Those encounters are often people to foreign tourists, in work for Coffeeshop Company customers — all of these factors For one shift she receives 650

Victoria Vzyatysheva city life

Clearing thepeople’s choice air to spend time to reserve a table. The place is accused of illegal business the necessity of the law it seems owadays, smelling of Look how zealously everybody cigarettes after visiting started to follow this law when in bars or cafés. It doesn’t seem not registered a public space, practices because there is no that it has not hit restaurants a café is impossible. it passed. No Russian law is plausible that if a person likes rather it is a rented room where menu or set prices — people and bars too hard. Inspections N in small, independently-owned Smoking is forbidden in all public respected that well. It’s effective having a cigarette with coffee, — according to the owners — can leave as much money places in Russia. Though the because most restaurant owners he will give up drinking coffee “friends” are gathering. as they wish, so all income places are very rare, and there new measures could disappoint support this rule», he thinks. because he cannot smoke.” “At such places this law is is considered as donations. seem to be ways around the ban. many clients, representatives of What’s more, the owners Birger also suggests that been overcome, because we are However, the owners have In any case, the anti-smoking the bar industry mostly support of Tsvetochki noticed that people easily got used to the not public. People just come measures against those who do law is widely supported by the non-smoking policy. What have people actually started smoking law. When the ban began in here to smoke shisha, who can not pay for shisha: if they call service industry and therefore, it places faced in the six months more. The bar continued selling the summer, bar patrons went forbid them it if they go exactly again (all telephone numbers is really working. since the law was implemented? cigarettes after forbidding outside to smoke without for this purpose?”, explains are saved), staff say that there is “First line” looked at the business smoking. However, when complaint and now that it is cold, founder Igor Konovalov. no free space. after cigarettes were banned. comparing the year when it was everybody is already in the habit. Liberty also cannot be Despite the big debate about “Everybody told us that we legal to smoke in other bars The law has been were crazy when we decided to and 2014, when the law was important not only for forbid smoking before the law implemented, Mironov says that average bars but also passed,” says Mitya Mironov, co- sales decreased. for another sector of owner of the bar Tsvetochki. In October 2014, the restaurant business Tsvetochki is a small place Ministry of Health stated that the — shisha bars. They on Rubinshteyna street which amount of smokers decreased are now forbidden to opened in the spring of 2012. by 16–17%, which could be said sell shishas containing At that time, the whole space to demonstrate a real effect of tobacco. However, was smoking, so smoke covered the law. However, these statistics some people have every corner of the tiny room. may not be accurate, because it a way around this. However, the owners decided to compared numbers of 2014 and “Liberty” is a shisha make it non-smoking one year 2009 years. bar, or perhaps before the ban came into effect. Pavel Birger, barmen at better said, space, on Since then, Mironov says Khroniki, also supports the Mayakovskogo street. the number of visitors has not decision to ban smoking in It opened before decreased and some of them public places. He also claims that the law, but from were even thankful for the fresh it has not influenced the number the beginning it has air in the bar. “The amount of of visitors or the general income been a place that one people does not depend on of the bar. People do not have cannot simply walk the opportunity to smoke. It other places to go anyway. into. Anyone wanting depends much more on the “Besides, I do not believe that to go to Liberty has Smoking is forbidden in all public places in Russia Author: medicalxpress.com Euro-to-Rouble exchange rate. the option to smoke effects to call beforehand 10 FIRST LINE INTERNATIONAL EDITION

Kumilonje DZABALA society What a Russian Education is to an African Student frican students are by encouraged students to cram, The affordability of Russian more racism if she were not continent, and so has diverse greater than Russia. Russia has no means the largest that was how students passed, education is not the only more practical in her day-to-day culture and language, but it is taught me how to be strong Aforeign population but in the Russian education, incentive. Russia is in the top activities. not offensive when they ask.” emotionally and mentally.” in St. Petersburg. Yet these you had to understand. When I 20 of the countries with the “The first thing I expected A third student says what a To what end is this education students have been a fixture went back home, I could easily best education and so that is was blatant racism, and yes, there Russian education has been to used? in the St. Petersburg academic adapt because I understood the enticement enough for African is racism, but it is not half as bad him is more than academic; it While every student is scene since the Soviet era, underlying principles of my students on a limited budget to as I heard and also most of the has built his character as well. happy to have received a when Africans were offered discipline and so could apply elect to study in Russia. These time, you just need to be smart “Russian education is more Russian education, few want scholarships as a way for the them in a different situation.” students tend go to towns like about things. Sometimes of than information, it is about to stay in Russia after it is USSR to expand its sphere of Today, things are different, Nizhny Novgorod as opposed course something may happen discipline. The environment, the complete. Roman Zhukov who influence on that continent. at least in terms of access to to St. Petersburg because it is to you, but I do not believe it is culture, everything about living works for Study in Russia- Dr. Nettie Dzabala, a Russian education. After the fall more affordable to live there. notably worse than other places in Russia toughens you up in a RUCUS”, an organisation that Zambian resident was one of the of the Soviet Union, Russian that have a racist reputation.” way that other countries do not provides support to foreign many students given a Russian scholarships to African students The Russian living experience African students have toughen you up, and that’s a students looking to study in for African Students scholarship to study Pharmacy dried up but it has began to A Google search of experienced their fair share good thing. I have never been to Russia, says, “Russia offers in St. Petersburg during the pick up again today. Even as Africans in St. Petersburg will of racist attacks but they say America or England to study, but Malawians students medical Soviet era and she says she does scholarships are not provided bring articles about racism in the most common thing they I know for sure Russia teaches degrees because their country not regret the decision, as the to every African student, every Russia on its first page. This is a encounter in Russia is not so you to be disciplined because needs doctors badly. Russia’s education was relevant to her year a considerable number fear many African students have much violence but just a general the alternative is bad. If you fail, universities offer students when she returned to her home of them find themselves when they come here, and some lack of knowledge of Africa. you go back. The status of being places to study disciplines that country. attending Russian universities live with it while others say it “Some people ask me undocumented here is far worse are relevant to their countries “St Petersburg, then it at undergraduate and post grad is not half as bad as they were questions about Africa, because than it is in USA or England towards the development of was called Leningrad, gave level simply because Russian warned. they do not know a single thing where the chances of your being cooperation between Russia and me the best education I could education is not as expensive as One student admitted that about it. I wish everyone would able to live off the system are other countries”. have gotten because while western education. she believes she would face at least know that Africa is a the British education system

Lina RUCHS about us

forth between Russia’s cultural We have come here for various willingness to understand each learning to rely on each other capital and the German capital, reasons - to learn about Russia, other, the appreciation of each and exchanging views. It’s an About us... Berlin. to learn about Germany, as others’ strengths and making enriching experience, even if it e hope you have time for a proper introduction. We come from various well as to get an international synergies out of it” is what isn’t always easy. Our organisers enjoyed this English- We are the first round of corners of the world, not just perspective on journalism makes this programme a success. have seen us grow together language edition of students admitted to this new W from Russia or Germany. Our and communication. Svetlana During the first semester in from just classmates into a the 1st Line student newspaper, double Masters programme colleagues from Iran, Mexico, Bodrunova, programme co- St. Petersburg we are learning community. Not least because full of fresh views on the run by St. Petersburg State South Africa, Malawi, Australia director on the Russian side, hands-on journalism skills of what happens outside the life of St. Petersburg and its University and Freie Universität and Canada give our programme observed how eager we were and about the Russian media classroom. In our free time we people. We, the students of the Berlin. After several years the truly international dimension to exchange our views in system. We all study Russian or learn about the “great Russian Global Communication and of preparation on side of that our organisers were hoping class. And that’s what Global German to equip us for life in soul”, the science of vodka International Journalism Masters the organisers, seventeen for. What they didn’t anticipate Communication is all about, the two countries. In Germany, drinking and the (not-so-) fun programme, have been living adventurous souls began this was that when perspectives are thinks Anna Litvinenko, co- the focus will shift to political hardships of the Russian winter. and studying here for just over two-year journey in September numerous, so are expectations. founder of the programme. The communication, as well as the However, we also look forward three months now – it’s about and will be moving back and German media landscape to to the amazing adventure of the give us a truly comparative social life in Berlin. perspective. After another We are quite a curious semester in St. Petersburg, bunch. That’s why we spend where we deal with international our free time chasing interviews journalism and the globalisation and stories, which we publish on of media, we will conclude our new city blog – Prospekt. our studies with an elaborate Check it out for yourselves and Elena Campos - Mexico Richard Ensor - Australia Julia Marks - Canada Aglaya Rakitianskaia - Russia Pourang Zarif - Iran Ida Reihani - Iran Master’s thesis – either in Russia tell us what you think. We’d also or in Germany. Throughout the love to hear what you thought programme, we do practical of this edition of 1st Line. training at media outlets of our Did you like our international choice to apply our knowledge perspective? Or are we on the and remind ourselves why we wrong track? Drop us a line at chose this programme. [email protected]. Have But the programme is more we made you enthusiastic about Kumilonje Dzabala - Malawi Lee Turner Kodak - Canada Victoria Vzyatysheva - Russia Maria Ivanova - Russia René Bosch - Germany Natalia Smolenceva - Russia than just academics. It’s about our programme? Talk to us and being in this adventure together, find out if you want to apply in about living in two completely the next round starting in March different countries. About 2015.

Lina Rusch - Germany Matthew von Abo - South Africa Darina Gribova - Russia Evgenia Sinepol - Russia Kyoka Ono - Japan Jakob Chor - Denmark

№ 2 2 ( 3 4 2 ) Адрес редакции: Главный редактор — Lee Turner Kodak 0 8 d e c e m b e r 2 0 1 4 199004, Арт-директор — Elena Campos Санкт-Петербург, Дизайн логотипа — Василий Бертельс П о з и ц и я р е д а к ц и и м о ж е т н е 1-я линия В.О., 26 Корректор —Lee Turner Kodak & Ida Reihani с о в п а д а т ь с м н е н и е м а в т о р о в Номер подготовлен студентами СПбГУ. о п убликованных м а т е р и а л о в . E-mail: [email protected] Тираж 100 экз.