The popular canalside cafés and restaurants of charming historic Nyhavn at sunset in the center of Copenhagen, the capital city of

Text by Scott Bennett. Photos by Scott Bennett, Lars Stenholt Kirkegaard and Peter Symes “We’re going to ??” Now there was a name to draw out my inner 8-year-old. It's funny because it has “fart” in it! Chuckles over and com- posure regained, my interest was piqued. Having been side- lined earlier in the year due to an unexpected health issue, I was eager for a dive trip. When X-Ray Mag's editor-in-chief, Peter Symes, suggested his home turf of Denmark, I was a bit hesi- tant. As someone weaned on the tropics, the country does not exactly leap to mind as a dive destination. After all, isn’t diving all about coral reefs overflow- ing with colourful reef fish? What could possibly entice me to dive in water cold enough to transform Diving & Dining in my fingers into arthritic claws?

PETER SYMES

Denmark— A Foreigner's Perspective

SCOTT BENNETT

I had visited Copenhagen before, km, (or “Fyn” as it is known locations, attracting not only resi- undertaking. I had doubts as to but had never been outside the in Denmark) is the country’s third- dents but visitors from neighbouring whether the car could even pull city, let alone dive. Located 209km largest island. Germany and the Netherlands. I it! Happily, the car managed, and (130mi) west of Copenhagen in the Nothing to do with flatulence, the would soon discover it to be a very we set out for the three-hour drive central part of Denmark, Middelfart name “Middelfart” is derived from different kind of dive experience. to Middelfart. Best of all: no worries is situated at the western end of the Old Danish terms mæthal (mid- After a day to recover from jet- about airport check-ins or excess the island of Funen, just across the dle) and far (way), referring to the lag, it was time to get ready. Peter baggage charges. Lillebælt (), the channel Snævringen Strait, Little Belt’s nar- managed to borrow a trailer to tow Canadian author and associate editor Scott separating it from the peninsula of rowest section. It is also renowned behind his car. Loading it with dive The journey Bennett learnt to dive in a drysuit in Denmark . With an area of 3,099.7 sq as one of Denmark’s prime diving gear and luggage was a major Getting there required a traverse and is seen here with the Old . Middelfart

18 X-RAY MAG : 105 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Copenhagen is famous for its many bicy- cles, gathered in front of cafés where locals enjoy dining outdoors, even in colder months, wrapped up in blankets travel provided by the many cozy cafés such as Skildpadden (The Turtle) dotting the small streets of the old historic center (left); Colourful poppies and wildflowers dot the green fields of the Danish coun- tryside (right)

SCOTT BENNETT The city is also famous for its many iconic spires, such as the dragon spire of the 17th-century stock exchange Børsen (left) and the Neo-Baroque spire of St. Nicholas Church (right), which now houses the Nikolaj Contemporary Art Center. SCOTT BENNETT PETER SYMES of the Danish archipelago. Of the 443 Diving 2000 islands, we had to cross two. Departing Enroute to Middelfart, we stopped Copenhagen’s bustle, we soon entered in the city of Odense to visit the the green of the Danish countryside. dive center Diving 2000 where we Dotted with numerous farms, it looked picked up tanks and gear. Odense SCOTT BENNETT remarkably like rural Ontario, my home is famous as the birthplace of Hans province in Canada. Christian Anderson, and the city has Fænø-Sund Conference Center, We then passed over the many reminders of this distinction for the a sprawling complex of identical PETER SYMES Bridge connecting the big islands of visitor. Despite spending most of his life yellow bungalows occupying a and Fyn, an engineering marvel in Copenhagen, both cities tussle over waterside location just outside of town. that was the largest construction project ownership of Denmark’s most famous lit- Our cottage was bright and spacious, in Danish history. Encompassing a road erary son. with two bedrooms and bathroom, a liv- suspension bridge and a railway tunnel On hand to meet us at the dive cen- ing room, kitchen and outdoor patio—sort between Zealand and the small island ter was owner Jan Laurenborg Olsen, of like an Ikea cottage, with white walls Sprogø, located in the who promptly fitted me and black furnishings. The spacious back middle of the Great Belt, with a shell and the latest courtyard was promptly occupied with and a box girder bridge for Waterproof drysuit. Very snaz- our mountain of dive gear. Arriving on the both road and rail traffic zy indeed! We also picked up cusp of the school holiday season, the from Sprogø to Fyn, the sus- some tanks and added them resort was not yet full. pension bridge features the to our already packed trailer. By the time everything was unpacked, it world’s third longest main I was amazed the car could was getting past dinner time, so we head- span (1.6km or 1mi) and is pull it all. ed into town to see what was open. Not a the longest outside Asia. lot, as it turned out. Fortunately, Café Jazz, Prior to opening to road Lodging situated right on the waterfront was open, traffic in 1998, the only way After another hour, we finally but we had to order fast. We all enjoyed a across from Copenhagen arrived at Middelfart. Our tasty smoked salmon salad as the sun set was by ferry. home for the week was the behind the Old Little Belt Bridge. PETER SYMES Odense Jan Laurenborg Olsen (center) is the owner of Diving 2000 dive center in Odense (above).

19 X-RAY MAG : 105 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO PETER SYMES travel PETER SYMES

PETER SYMES

PETER SYMES

PETER SYMES

PETER SYMES

LEFT TO RIGHT: Quail's egg-topped beef tartare and tartlets (once served to the Queen, according to the chef); salad of green, cherry and heirloom tomatoes from the inn's garden; braised cod with fresh peas and Danish new potatoes; flying gur- nard fish and chips; Danish cheeses; and a strawberry-rhubarb compote with mascarpone ice cream for dessert including, green, cherry and heirloom, all harvested from the restaurant gar- Culinary adventure has cooked den. The freshness was superb. The next day began with a culinary regularly for Next up, cod braised in rich stock

adventure: lunch at a Michelin-star res- the Danish PETER SYMES was seasoned to perfection, served taurant. Our reservation was for noon Royal family. alongside garden-fresh green peas (the only available spot for days) and Pulling up stakes to head to Jutland, tic flower arrangements and eclectic and Danish new potatoes. Chef Henne Kirkeby the drive just over an hour. Being a the master chef now fronts Henne framed prints. Our waiter described Cunningham’s fish and chips was a serious foodie, my anticipation was off Kirkeby Kro, a 300-year-old thatched the mélange of courses, with the menu splendid take on the traditional British the charts. heritage inn renowned as one of reflecting what was in season. We all favourite. Flying gurnard coated with Henne Kirkeby Set near Jutland’s west coast, the Denmark’s top dining venues. Serving opted for the set lunch of five courses a feather-light batter paired with crisp Kro, Chef Paul small village of Henne Kirkeby seemed up field-to-fork gourmet cuisine with with corresponding glasses of wine. chips further tantalized the taste buds. Cunningham's an odd place for a Michelin-star restau- vegetables from the restaurant gar- Although trying to watch my diet, Dessert was a strawberry-rhubarb Michelin-star rant. “What’s it doing way out here?” I den, combined with artisanal local especially regarding fried food, I fig- compote with mascarpone ice cream, restaurant on asked Peter. “The chef is something of produce, the inn draws legions of loyal ured if I was going to throw caution to a thoroughly decadent way to finish. the western a rock star,” he replied with a grin. fans undeterred by the three-hour trip the wind, this would be the place! We were then treated by a visit with coast of Jutland (top left), is Said star was Englishman Paul from Copenhagen. First up was an appetizer of a beef the man himself. Clad in striped apron styled with the Cunningham, a man boasting some tartare topped with a quail’s egg and and Danish slippers, Henne Kirkeby’s clean lines of serious culinary credentials. As the for- Five-course affair tartlets (a favourite of the Danish roy- guru cut an imposing figure. Tall, bald Danish décor, mer executive chef of the now closed Behind the historic façade was an inte- ) served alongside a salad topped and bearded, his smile reminded me accented with Michelin-rated restaurant “The Paul” rior that was cool and contemporary, with edible nasturtiums. A tomato salad of the infectious charm of comedian/ delicate floral in Copenhagen’s Tivoli Gardens, he with crisp whites augmented with artis- featured five different types of tomato actor Ricky Gervais, along with a

arrangements. PETER SYMES

20 X-RAY MAG : 105 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO PETER SYMES travel

SCOTT BENNETT

SCOTT BENNETT

SCOTT BENNETT Chef Paul Cunningham (above) in his restaurant garden (left); Coffee and biscuits on the terrace (left); The inn (top right) and church (right) in Jelling

very English sense of us to Henne (Yes, just like the wireless tech, humour. “You’ve come Strand, a which was indeed named after a long way for fish and holiday town him). In fact, the roots of the

chips,” he quipped. right on present Danish kingdom can be SCOTT BENNETT the coast. traced back to Gorm the Old in a Garden tour Stretching to continuous line. Bluetooth in memory of his par- the house. Not that we needed After a cappuccino the horizon in Dating from the transitional peri- ents. Unfortunately, both are now much after our sumptuous lunch. and biscuits on the ter- both direc- od between Norse paganism and encased in glass, courtesy of a race, the chef led us tions, the Christianity, the site featured two drunken college student’s late- White Nights out back for a tour of powdery- massive royal grave mounds and night graffiti binge. Being the time of “White Nights,” the gardens. No mere plot, the white beach was imposing and the Jelling Church, a 12th century A hike up to the summit of the dinner was later than usual. As operation was extensive, com- thronged with holidaymakers structure in the traditional chalk- larger mound provided superb Denmark is positioned at a much plete with a small greenhouse. unfazed by the unseasonable stone style. The adja- view over the entire higher latitude than Toronto, it did Ruby-red strawberries, tomatoes, coolness. No diving here, how- cent churchyard is area. With the glori- not get dark until well after 11:00 gooseberries and edible flow- ever, as the remains home to the Jelling ous late afternoon p.m. Even at midnight, a sliver of ers jostled for space alongside shallow for quite a way out. stones, carved light, it was a per- light illuminated the horizon. I sus- a multitude of herbs. It doesn’t runestones bearing fect photographic pected sleeping in would not be get any fresher than that! Chef Jelling Denmark’s best- end to the day. A an issue. Cunningham’s passion for food A drive across the Jutland coun- known runic inscrip- nearby supermar- Dawn came around 4:00 a.m., has not gone unnoticed. Since tryside brought us to Jelling, a tions. The older stone ket was open, and and outside my window, a cuck- our visit, the restaurant has added small village with some big history. was erected by we stocked up on oo called, sounding like, well, a another Michelin star. A 10th century Viking settlement, King Gorm in mem­ pickled herring, blue cuckoo clock. With car loaded Jelling was a royal monument ory of his wife Thyra cheese, smoked and my trepidation mounting, we Beachside during the reigns of King Gorm the while the larger was salmon and salads set out on the hour-long drive to PETER SYMES Bellies full, a short drive brought Old and his son Harald Bluetooth. raised by Harald for dinner back at Fyn’s southern coast. Danish floral design in the inn Jelling

21 X-RAY MAG : 105 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO PETER SYMES travel

LARS STENHOLT KIRKEGAARD

SDU

Ringsgård Basin (above) near Ballen shown on locator map (below) where the LARS STENHOLT KIRKEGAARD Ærøsund ferry (center inset) was sunk; Views of the interior of the wreck after it was sunk in 2014 (right column); Peter Symes and author Scott Bennett prepare for a dive (left).

had been decontaminated and like. On the other hand, the G. SYMES made safe for diving and marine coolness was a blessing; we life. By June 2015, a steady growth would not broil in our lay- Ærøsund wreck of vegetation started to appear, and ers and black drysuits while Our destination was the M/F Ærøsund, within a few months, the wreck had waiting to dive. The extra 45 Denmark’s last and newest become heavily overgrown. Today, pounds of combined weight wreck. Here we would hook up with the Ærøsund is one of Denmark’s most belt plus steel tank ensured I fellow diver Lars, who was bringing renowned artificial reefs. Positioned did not move too quickly. a group down from Odense. Most of 550m from shore at a depth of 19m, The divers had brought LARS STENHOLT KIRKEGAARD the journey was by expressway and the uppermost section along two the Saturday morning traffic was light. (the funnel) is only 6m zodiacs, which would a challenge, but I made it. Arriving at the park, we passed holi- beneath the surface, take both groups to the Getting there required took only five day caravans parked on the grass, making the wreck ferry. Nevertheless, after minutes. We were in the second smaller the weekend campers unfazed by accessible for both double and triple checks, group and waited for others to go in the cool weather. The Odense group freedivers and scuba the moment of truth had first. A backwards roll and I was in. The had already arrived, and Jan was divers. arrived. Waddling to the water was not as cold as expected— giving a briefing. The moment of truth With Peter’s patient jetty, I wondered how I a balmy 16°C. Not bad for such a had arrived! assistance, I managed was going to lower myself northern latitude. Right away, I noticed Located in the Ringsgård Basin near to gear up with minimal down to the zodiac. The the water to be less buoyant than the the village of Ballen, the Ærøsund difficulty. The weather answer was cautiously and ocean. Technically part of the Baltic was sunk in a controlled scuttling in was 16°C and overcast, slowly. Climbing down from Sea, the water was more on the brack- October 2014. Beforehand, the vessel not particularly summer- the much higher jetty was ish side and less salty. Ærøsund wreck

22 X-RAY MAG : 105 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Denmark

SCOTT BENNETT Small delicate anemone (above); Yellow sponges and small red anemo- nes cover the walls along Lillebælt strait (left); Sugarkelp and seaweeds (right); Moon jellyfish are the most abundant spe- cies of jellyfish. They do sting but only so weakly that one can- not feel anything if touched; however, one's lips may feel a slight tingle, after coming into contact with the tentacles

SCOTT BENNETT (bottom left). SCOTT BENNETT Diving the wreck especially considering the wreck was happened. “Don’t worry, it happens Svendborg sojourn For the first dive, we concentrated just a few years old at the time we to us all once!” he responded cheer- Later in the afternoon, we stopped on the main deck, so I could prac- dived it. Clusters of yellow sponges fully. “All part of the learning process.” at Svendborg, a picturesque city tice basic buoyancy skills. As it was were prevalent, adding a splash of With diving finished for the day, nestled on Funen’s southern coast. my first time out, I opted to leave the colour. Some fish darted about, but we decided to take the scenic route Established in the 12th century, the camera behind. Due to recent rains, moon jellyfish were especially numer- back to do some photography. city is the gateway to Funen’s south- visibility was minimal, limited to only a ous. Fortunately, they did not sting—a Pastoral vistas abounded; thatched ern archipelago. A shipbuilding hub few metres. good thing, as a few brushed across roofs crowned tra- for generations, the The vessel featured large openings my face. All in all, everything went ditional farmhouses, world’s largest contain- for divers to swim through, with two rather well, and I looked forward to while orange poppies er ship company, A.P. yellow buoys anchored to iron chains the next dive. added vivid splashes to Møller-Mærsk, had its to help divers locate them. The bal- Unfortunately, it proved to be rather the surrounding fields. origins in the city. Today last remained in place, helping to abbreviated. After my back-roll entry, Fields of golden wheat it is a major sailing cen- stabilize the ship’s upward position on I felt a surge of cold water rushing up rippled under a cobalt tre, with more Danish the sandy bottom. The wreck’s lowest my legs. Flood! As surface chop had sky, the occasional tree boats registered than portion was covered with mud and intensified, getting back aboard the interrupting the hori- anywhere else outside difficult to swim through without stir- zodiac was a real struggle. Out of zon. (Read more about of Copenhagen. Each ring up silt. breath and feeling sheepish, I waited diving the wreck in the summer, the country’s Finning around at a depth of five for the others to finish their dives. Peter following story on the yachting elite inundate metres, marine growth was surprising, soon resurfaced, and I explained what sinking of Ærøsund). the cafe-dotted streets. SCOTT BENNETT Svendborg

23 X-RAY MAG : 105 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel BENNETT SCOTT

PETER SYMES

In the Neolithic period, flint scrapers were PETER SYMES often used to soften hides, or to clean Along the coastline of Thurø, just a few km meat off of hides, in addition to being from the town of Svendborg, Stone Age used for wood work. Flint scrapers were essentially artefacts such as flint scrapers and bones flakes from a globule of flint stone, say, the size of a can be found in shallow depths; Danish flow- football. Using another tool to apply pressure to one er garden (left); Wild rosehip blooms (right) of the flat surfaces, it was possible to chip off these flakes, which were razor sharp along the edges—a technique that is often demonstrated in living muse- Thurø sive real estate! Although we did not DIY mentality ums today. The scrapers were thus relatively easy First, we made find any arrowheads, the walk along Arriving back at the resort, I faced and fast to make, and once the edge got dull, they a detour over the water was very picturesque. A something that was entirely new to me: were resharpened by chipping away at the edge, to nearby dive-bombing seagull added some We had to fill our own tanks. Although until they were eventually discarded as new ones island of unexpected drama. the resort did not have an actual dive were made. As a result, over time, discarded scrap- Thurø. Around Thurø Sund is also unique biologi- shop, there were facilities onsite to fill ers and other refuse, such as animal bones and shells Denmark’s cally. Although meadows of carbon- the tanks. This trip was a true do-it-your- from clams and oysters, just piled up high at sites of Stone Age settlements. (See more info in next article). shallow bays, storing seagrass are found in coastal self endeavour and a rude awakening Island of Thurø it is possible to areas worldwide, biologists have con- to those accustomed to extending a find artefacts cluded those at Thurø Sund (sound) to foot and having someone put a fin on dating back to the Stone age and be the most efficient found anywhere. it. (Like me!) Peter wanted to show me such a loca- This carbon-storing trait is garnering After a long day, we did not feel like tion at Thurø Sund (Thurø Sound). The serious attention from scientists search- cooking, so Peter’s trusty iPad located

area was residential, with rambling old- ing to reduce CO2 emissions into the us some pizza takeaway. Babylon Pizza

style homes adorned with thatched atmosphere. proved a real cross-cultural estab- PETER SYMES roofs. Parking the car, we strolled down lishment: a pizza joint, with a Middle the lane towards the water, but it all Downtown Svendborg Eastern name, run by Tamils. The enor- water, and Little Belt was no excep- appeared to be private land. A local Back in the city, we had a wander mous meat-lover’s pizza was excellent! tion. Currents at high tide can be PETER SYMES homeowner asked what we were around the downtown center’s pedes- The next day was a literal washout, as it especially fierce, surging up to three Stone Age settlements were commonly placed doing and then kindly invited us to walk trian mall. Despite being Saturday, it was continuously poured with rain. It proved knots. Knowledge of incoming and along the coastline, preferably near creeks and estu- through his property. the pre-dinner lull, and the streets was to be a good time to rest and do some outgoing tides is imperative, but a aries. In the Stone Age, the sea level was lower, and His home had been in the family for largely deserted. Traditional architec- photo editing. government website (https://ifm.fcoo. contours of the coastline were quite different from five generations, and they had been ture of wood and stucco flanked the dk/select/index.html) produced by today's. But in some places, such as Thurø Sound (shown in the image above, as viewed looking east, fisherman. One separate structure cobbled streets while back courtyards Tides the Department of Defense’s Centre with the island of in the distance), it is pos- turned out to be the old smokehouse revealed sequestered-away restaurants With the Danish archipelago obstruct- for Operative Oceanography (Huh?) sible to "guesstimate" where one might have been where fish were hung to dry. Although and shops. Some of the older buildings ing water passage from the Baltic came to the rescue. Peter bookmarked placed by studying bottom profiles on a sea chart. fishing had ceased years earlier, they lacked right angles. Skewed and colour- to the Atlantic, channels between it on his iPad, so our dive sites could be Thurø Sound forms a deep channel, so it must also now possessed some seriously expen- ful, they proved especially photogenic. islands funnel tremendous amounts of chosen accordingly. have formed a coastline during the Stone Age. 

24 X-RAY MAG : 105 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Denmark

PETER SYMES SCOTT BENNETT

View of the entry to Fænø Sund (top left); Delicate red anemones (top right); Crabs were numerous at Fænø Sund, and this one (left) was eating a freshly caught shrimp, its headless body firmly clasped in the crab's claw.

shore entry. I opted to go without eating a freshly caught shrimp, gods had other plans. My release a huge full moon ascended. The the camera to concentrate on its headless body firmly clasped valve was jammed, and I could time? Eleven o’clock, and we still improving my drysuit skills. in one pincher. The gobies were not deflate the suit. Bobbing had not eaten dinner yet. Visibility was a bit murky on more skittish, but I still got some helplessly on the surface, I felt the surface but cleared as we images. Peter pointed out some like the Michelin Man. So much Søbadet went deeper. The sandy bottom anemones, which were the small- for the dive… After a leisurely start the next was punctuated with weeds and est I have ever seen. Like tiny red A quick trip to Dive 2000 was morning, we headed to Søbadet more crabs than I have ever seen jewels, they were a stark contrast required to remedy the problem, (The Sea Bath), situated near the in one place. Along with a mul- to the muted tones of the sand. and Jan took care of it pronto. It Old Little Belt Bridge. Renowned titude of mussels, the sand was turns out that late the next after- as one of the area’s premier dive buzzing with tiny gobies. We even New Little Belt Bridge noon, he was taking a student sites, it is not only popular with startled a small flounder, which Checking the tides for the next out for an open water dive at Danish divers, but with visiting promptly vanished in day, we decided Søbadet, a site near our resort. Dutch and Germans. We parked a flurry of sand. on a site on the We agreed to meet up. It was a in front the old sea bath house, a Feeling confident, Jutland side, close plan. Heading back, we decided distinctive yellow building about I took the camera to the New Little Belt on another dive at Fænø Sund 30m from shore. Carrying all our for the second dive. Bridge. Conditions as it was close to home. I espe- gear to the water took some seri- SCOTT BENNETT Although less flexible were perfect, with cially enjoyed photographing ous effort! Fænø Sund dient. Hovering around 19°C, than a wetsuit, the almost no current the anemones along with some A small jetty made a great spot The next day we headed back temperatures were cool for June, drysuit did not hinder and a glassy sur- appealing white starfish tinted to gear up, with only a short swim to Fænø Sund, only a few min- but most comfortable when sit- my photography. face. With gearing- with hues of yellow and red. We to the deeper water. Søbadet is utes drive from our cottage. This ting in a drysuit during our sur- The crabs were toler- up time quickening, later headed back to photograph one of Denmark’s sole “multiple- time, we could park adjacent to face intervals. Conditions were ant, so I could get I felt confident as I the sunset. Crimson and orange level wall dive” sites, and just off- the site, so getting gear to the calmer too, so the dive would close to shoot some entered the water. tones set water and sky aglow, shore, the dive area is indicated by water’s edge was far more expe- be a lot easier with a simple portraits. One was However, the dive while in the opposite direction, large yellow buoys. Fænø Sund

25 X-RAY MAG : 105 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Drysuit Newbie: Taking the Cold-Water Plunge travel I will be honest; when it comes to cold water, help but think that if I was wearing a 3mm I am something of a wuss. With most my 900+ wetsuit in the tropics, I would be already in the dives regulated to the tropics, cold water water photographing stuff. diving is a concept that usually fills me with trepidation. I have managed some dives in Underwater, but dry inside the Great Lakes in Canada as well as South When one is not used to it, the feeling of being Africa. On the cool side to be sure, I man- underwater, yet dry inside, was decidedly odd. aged just fine with a 7mm wetsuit. Once in the water, overall flexibility was notice- However, diving in Denmark often calls for ably reduced compared to a wetsuit but not a drysuit. With such experience nil (an unsuc- uncomfortably so. The biggest difference was cessful attempt one January in Copenhagen, the lack of a BCD. The inflator on the suit itself notwithstanding), this would prove to be some- was easy enough, but the control valve just thing entirely different. behind my left shoulder PETER SYMES However, new experienc- took some getting used es are a good thing, and to. Not particularly difficult, pre-conceived notions mind you—just different. are not. Besides, I had the perfect dive buddy Bouyancy challenges to help me along. It was I found the hardest part time to take the plunge. was maintaining buoyancy with the control valve. Just Donning in the field turning one’s shoulder a Trying on gear in the certain way was enough store was one thing but to release air from the getting ready on loca- suit. That is, if you open tion was an entirely dif- it properly before going ferent animal. It was underwater. On a few PETER SYMES strange to consider I was occasions, I mistakenly had A brilliant sunset over Fænø Sund in the region of Funen, or “Fyn,” as the Danes call it wearing track pants and it closed instead of open. t-shirt that would not be I had been warned that Large numbers of moon jellyfish still slack. Following the chain, we up considerably. Struggling with my getting wet inside the too much air in the suit can pulsed off the jetty. As the tide slack- descended to a plateau with a width release valve, I turned it the wrong suit (in theory, anyways, result in floating upwards ened, many became stranded in the of two to three metres. Farther down way, filling my suit with air. Holding but more on that later). feet-first. And yes, it hap- shallows to ultimately wash up on shore. was another wall and another step the chain at the safety stop, my After putting on the shell, pened. Several times. A chain anchored to the bottom before it sloped down to 25 to 30m. feet went upwards and the rest of Peter showed me how to made an easy trail to follow out to As Peter said, the seabed was me promptly followed. Fortunately, apply baby powder over Flooding the suit the wall. Expanses of eelgrass quickly flat and lifeless at that depth, so we were not deep, but I surfaced the rubber seals at the In the end, everything changed to sugarkelp, a brown we opted to stick with the wall. right into a current, which started neck and wrists to make that could go wrong, did. algae resembling large lasagna Descending farther, the environ- whisking me away from the jetty. them easier to get into. Flooding the suit due to an noodles. Goldsinny wrasse darted ment changed yet again. Sea squirt After a brief bit of panic, I managed Boots were attached to improperly closed zipper amongst the fronds along with the colonies abounded along with pink to get ashore. Peter volunteered to the suit in one piece, but was probably the absolute omnipresent moon jellies. Frequently oaten pipe hydroid and plumose return to the house to make us some the gloves were separate low point for embarrass- brushing my face, I was grateful they anemones. The wall itself was not lunch. Reluctant to shed the drysuit, I wet gloves. ment, but I was assured did not sting! It was an environment actually rock, but clay. Nevertheless, remained to snooze on the jetty. that it happens to everyone. Another very unlike anything I had seen before, it was riddled with nooks and cran- Weight minor flood occurred due to an improper seal but huge quantities of sediment nies, providing hiding places for fish Final dive My weight belt was in the form of a shoul- on either a wrist or the neck. made photography an impossibility. and molluscs. A viviparous eelpout Weary, yet undeterred, I was eager der harness that effectively balanced the 30 In retrospect, these mishaps proved to be a Following the chain to a depth of (one of the most unlikely fish names I for another dive. Heading back pounds required. Factor in the 15-pound steel good thing. These were all situations I needed seven metres, we reached the first ever heard) added a splash of red to down, we followed the chain to the tank and it made for some serious heft. The to know how to deal with. Gearing up was level of the wall. Along the top, sug- the yellow of the sponges. Shooting wall. The rocks at the base proved 45 pounds of combined weight belt, plus one cumbersome at first but got progressively arkelp and Laminaria hyperborea, a close to the wall with twin strobes to be my favourite part of the dive. tank, ensured I did not move too quickly. My easier. By the final dive, the stars aligned, and leathery seaweed, undulated gen- really helped minimize backscatter. Upon closer scrutiny, a myriad of tank was attached to a BCD, but I would not everything went perfectly. Goodbye trepida- tly—an indication the current was Heading back, the current picked creatures was revealed. Clusters of be using the latter for buoyancy. I could not tion, hello cold water. I’m hooked! 

26 X-RAY MAG : 105 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel OUR BOATS ARE NOW OPERATING IN THE RED SEA AND MALDIVES TO HELP YOU PLAN, WE’RE CONTINUING TO OFFER OUR “NO DEPOSIT SCHEME“ Contact us for the latest updates on new flight arrivals

Contact [email protected] We’re the team to help you go diving again!

SCOTT BENNETT

Red whelk were numer­ous at LEADING THE WAY SINCE 1992 Søbadet (above) Quality | Excellence | Service | Flexibility | Value

Emperor_Diver_HH.indd 2 24/09/2020 14:36

SCOTT BENNETT Viviparous eelpout next to a red whelk with a tiny nudibranch hitching a ride (above)

blue mussels abounded, as a myriad a Yarrell’s blenny peering out of crabs scuttled. Red whelks were from a crevice but could not everywhere; many were encrusted get a photo. Tadpole fish could with tiny strawberry anemones. also be observed along with the One whelk yielded a real surprise. occasional lobster. SCOTT BENNETT Hitching a ride was a nudibranch so Then, it got cold. REALLY cold. small, I failed to see it until examin- Turns out we blundered into a serious turned out the water was a brisk 6°C. Dykkerklubben (dive club), an ing the photo on my laptop. I spotted thermocline. I was so engrossed with “If you can handle that, you can dive underwater trail follows the stone reef another eelpout and this one sat still my photography that I scarcely paid pretty much anywhere,” said Peter into the Little Belt. Ideal for novice long enough for me to photograph it. much attention. Some 15 minutes later, with a grin. divers, the trail extends for 50m, with a Illuminated by my torch, the colours it was a different story. Warmer water maximum depth of 12mm. were quite striking, especially in con- beckoned, and we made our way Diverse diving Along its length, nine markers provide trast to the wall’s grey tones. back to the shallows. This time, I was The entire Little Belt area offers a information about the diversity of life Perched vicariously atop one kelp grateful my safety stop did not involve variety of dive sites. Just before the to be observed around the reef. Signs frond, a tiny spider crab brazenly shooting to the surface feet-first. Back old bridge on the way to Jutland, a are numbered one through nine, with SCOTT BENNETT raised its pinchers in defiance of my on shore, I was elated that everything turnoff leads to Kongebrogaarden an arrow pointing to the subsequent Common goby (above); A view of the Old Little Belt close approach. I could just make out went perfectly for our final dive. It Marina. Adjacent to the Marsvinet marker. Fish species vary depending Bridge over the New Little Belt Bridge in the distance (right)

27 X-RAY MAG : 105 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel

SCOTT BENNETT

PETER SYMES

PETER SYMES Fishing boats in Middlefart's harbour, with the Old Little Belt Bridge in silhouette (top); Danish Carlsberg beer at Café Jazz, where a porpoise was spotted in the bay, with the New Little Belt Bridge (right). on the season, with viviparous For our last night, we headed back plete the postcard setting. Heading blenny, topknot, goby, lumpfish into town for another meal at the back to the resort, we made a stop and goldsinny wrasse frequently Café Jazz. Securing a table on the at Middelfart Harbour. Despite the observed. Nudibranchs are especially patio, we enjoyed pre-dinner drinks midnight hour, the last vestiges of common during the winter months. as the setting sun silhouetted the sunlight peered above the horizon as Another trail starts near the Café Jazz Old Little Belt Bridge and painted fishing boats sat motionless on the still in Middelfart, continuing along the the horizon with crimson tones. A water—another postcard view. That’s coast right to the dive club. appeared to com- Denmark for you. 

28 X-RAY MAG : 105 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO It is a late mid-summer evening at Søbadet by Little Belt when Scott Bennett The Bottom Contour of Lillebælt (Little Belt) (left) takes in the ambience, shooting pho- tos for his article in this issue. The opposite Gl. Ålbo coast shown in the photo is Jutland, the Photos by Lars peninsular part of Denmark. At this point, Stenholt Kirkegaard the strait is about 800m wide.

On the Jutland side, or the western coast, of the Little Belt, Gl. Ålbo Camping is equipped to cater for divers.

PETER SYMES

Generalised bottom Beach contour along Little Belt (left). It drops off in distinct 4m steps and ledges. At depth, the current can sometimes be quite strong. If caught by the current, 12m do not fight it. Instead, simply ascend in a calm manner and swim perpendicular to Cabins with lockers for dive equipment, a diver-friendly the coast. If you end up TINE HINDAL 25m a bit farther down the jetty and a filling station has made Gl. Ålbo a popular resort—especially beach, you just have to Dead man’s fingers, Alcyonium digitatum among divers from Germany, which is just a couple of hours’ drive away. trot back to your starting (above), is a ubiquitous species of soft coral 40m point... with all your gear. that colonises parts of the walls in Little Belt, Luxury huts & fine dining nearby where everything is provided in just one as well as other areas where there is a solid Denmark currently does not host dive spot in front of an excellent house reef substate. The polyps feed at various times of operations in which diving and accom- and fine dining is not far away. 50-80m the day, with their tentacles extended. They modation is offered in one package, While not a five-star resort, Gl. Ålbo are suspension feeders gathering plankton from the water with the help of cilia and as is popular in many other countries, does have modern luxury huts (with Free Little Belt Guide: Did you know that Little Belt has one of the densest populations absorbing oxygen at the same time. which may be the biggest obstacle up to six beds, loft, kitchenette, bath- in the world of the smallest whale on earth—the porpoise? Learn more about Little Belt's nature, holding back dive tourism in Denmark room, heated floors and a deck) and dive sites, beaches, tours, activities, food, restaurants, lodging, arts and attractions in the free from becoming properly established. an 8-bed/2-bath holiday cottage, 112-page e-book (in English/German/Danish) at: e-pages.dk/jfmadhoc/912/ However, Gl. Ålbo is one exception, which are comfortable and clean, with opportunities to mix with other divers. See: Gl-aalbo.dk ­ A hermit crab takes the Drive to fine dining shell off a red whelk (left). restaurants in nearby Hermit crabs will indeed Bjert (11 minutes), fight over good shells, and (25 minutes) a strong crab can wrestle and (45 a weaker occupant out its minutes), including the shell, if it fancies the shell. The evicted individual then Micheline-star New Nordic Cuisine restau- has to scurry about to find PETER SYMES a new shell to protect its rant Ti Trin Ned. See: vunerable rear parts. Long-legged spider crab, Macropodia rostrata, titrinned.dk has a hairy, or fuzzy, appearance due to algae

PETER SYMES that it applies to itself for camouflage (above).

29 X-RAY MAG : 105 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Between dives, why not try a culinary adventure with New Nordic Cuisine in Denmark travel Denmark?

Toast with turbot, herbs and vinegar dust (far left) and raw The New Nordic Cuisine shrimp with seaweed, rhubarb and herbs (below) at Noma Text edited by G. Symes (left), the flagship Micheline- star restaurant in Copenhagen, Denmark, founded by chefs The New Nordic Cuisine is a culinary Claus Meyer and René movement that burst onto the global Redzepi, who pioneered the gastronomic scene in the early 2000s. TOMISLAV MEDAK / FLICKR COMMONS / CC BY 2.0 New Nordic Cuisine Developed by chefs in , of which Claus Meyer and René Redzepi were the pioneering innovators and founders of the world-renown Noma res- taurant in Copenhagen (four-time winner of the “World’s Best Restaurant” title in Restaurant magazine), the idea was to revamp traditional local cuisine by using principles of “purity, simplicity and fresh- CYCLONEBILL / FLICKR COMMONS / CC BY-SA 2.0 ness” as well as emphasise seasonal pro- duce grown or foraged locally, benefitting from the region’s unique climate, water and soil, including traditional local favour- ites such as Danish new potatoes, straw- berries and asparagus. In addition, the chefs revived and adapted older Scandinavian tech- niques, such as marinating, smoking and CYCLONEBILL / FLICKR COMMONS / CC BY-SA 2.0 salting, as well as prepared local organic foods such as oats, rapeseed, cheeses and heirloom varieties of apples and pears, using methods that maintained their natural flavours. Since its inception, the trend has spread and evolved. In 2004, the Nordic Kitchen CYCLONEBILL / FLICKR COMMONS / CC BY-SA 2.0 SUBHASH ROY / FLICKR COMMONS / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 Manifesto established ten principles based on “purity, season, ethics, health, sustain- ability and quality,” written by chefs from the Nordic lands of Denmark, , Norway, Finland, Iceland, Greenland, Åland and the Faroe Islands. Today, the aims of the New Nordic move- ment have been taken up by many chefs and local kitchens around the world— revamping traditional dishes and creating new ones with fresh local, sustainable and traceable ingredients—as well as gov- ernments, institutions, agencies, schools, SUBHASH ROY / FLICKR COMMONS / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 universities, food production and supply New Nordic Cuisine at Geranium (above and chains, guided by the principles of the center); Heart salad with fresh hazelnuts, apple, Manifesto.  SOURCES: THE GUARDIAN, NORDIC hazelnut oil, cucumber flowers and white currants © CLAES BECH-POULSEN / VISITDENMARK CO-OPERATION, VISIT COPENHAGEN, WIKIPEDIA (center left) and white asparagus with poached Several restaurants serve New Nordic Cuisine in Denmark, including Ti Trin Ned egg yolk and woodland sauce (right) at Noma CYCLONEBILL / WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / CC BY-SA 2.0 in Fredericia (above), Hærværk in Aarhus and Geranium in Copenhagen.

30 X-RAY MAG : 105 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO