The popular canalside cafés and restaurants of charming historic Nyhavn at sunset in the center of Copenhagen, the capital city of Denmark Text by Scott Bennett. Photos by Scott Bennett, Lars Stenholt Kirkegaard and Peter Symes “We’re going to Middelfart??” Now there was a name to draw out my inner 8-year-old. It's funny because it has “fart” in it! Chuckles over and com- posure regained, my interest was piqued. Having been side- lined earlier in the year due to an unexpected health issue, I was eager for a dive trip. When X-Ray Mag's editor-in-chief, Peter Symes, suggested his home turf of Denmark, I was a bit hesi- tant. As someone weaned on the tropics, the country does not exactly leap to mind as a dive destination. After all, isn’t diving all about coral reefs overflow- ing with colourful reef fish? What could possibly entice me to dive in water cold enough to transform Diving & Dining in my fingers into arthritic claws? PETER SYMES Denmark— A Foreigner's Perspective SCOTT BENNETT I had visited Copenhagen before, km, Funen (or “Fyn” as it is known locations, attracting not only resi- undertaking. I had doubts as to but had never been outside the in Denmark) is the country’s third- dents but visitors from neighbouring whether the car could even pull city, let alone dive. Located 209km largest island. Germany and the Netherlands. I it! Happily, the car managed, and (130mi) west of Copenhagen in the Nothing to do with flatulence, the would soon discover it to be a very we set out for the three-hour drive central part of Denmark, Middelfart name “Middelfart” is derived from different kind of dive experience. to Middelfart. Best of all: no worries is situated at the western end of the Old Danish terms mæthal (mid- After a day to recover from jet- about airport check-ins or excess the island of Funen, just across the dle) and far (way), referring to the lag, it was time to get ready. Peter baggage charges. Lillebælt (Little Belt), the channel Snævringen Strait, Little Belt’s nar- managed to borrow a trailer to tow Canadian author and associate editor Scott separating it from the peninsula of rowest section. It is also renowned behind his car. Loading it with dive The journey Bennett learnt to dive in a drysuit in Denmark Jutland. With an area of 3,099.7 sq as one of Denmark’s prime diving gear and luggage was a major Getting there required a traverse and is seen here with the Old Little Belt Bridge. Middelfart 18 X-RAY MAG : 105 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Copenhagen is famous for its many bicy- cles, gathered in front of cafés where locals enjoy dining outdoors, even in colder months, wrapped up in blankets travel provided by the many cozy cafés such as Skildpadden (The Turtle) dotting the small streets of the old historic center (left); Colourful poppies and wildflowers dot the green fields of the Danish coun- tryside (right) SCOTT BENNETT The city is also famous for its many iconic spires, such as the dragon spire of the 17th-century stock exchange Børsen (left) and the Neo-Baroque spire of St. Nicholas Church (right), which now houses the Nikolaj Contemporary Art Center. SCOTT BENNETT PETER SYMES of the Danish archipelago. Of the 443 Diving 2000 islands, we had to cross two. Departing Enroute to Middelfart, we stopped Copenhagen’s bustle, we soon entered in the city of Odense to visit the the green of the Danish countryside. dive center Diving 2000 where we Dotted with numerous farms, it looked picked up tanks and gear. Odense SCOTT BENNETT remarkably like rural Ontario, my home is famous as the birthplace of Hans province in Canada. Christian Anderson, and the city has Fænø-Sund Conference Center, We then passed over the Great Belt many reminders of this distinction for the a sprawling complex of identical PETER SYMES Bridge connecting the big islands of visitor. Despite spending most of his life yellow bungalows occupying a Zealand and Fyn, an engineering marvel in Copenhagen, both cities tussle over waterside location just outside of town. that was the largest construction project ownership of Denmark’s most famous lit- Our cottage was bright and spacious, in Danish history. Encompassing a road erary son. with two bedrooms and bathroom, a liv- suspension bridge and a railway tunnel On hand to meet us at the dive cen- ing room, kitchen and outdoor patio—sort between Zealand and the small island ter was owner Jan Laurenborg Olsen, of like an Ikea cottage, with white walls Sprogø, located in the who promptly fitted me and black furnishings. The spacious back middle of the Great Belt, with a shell and the latest courtyard was promptly occupied with and a box girder bridge for Waterproof drysuit. Very snaz- our mountain of dive gear. Arriving on the both road and rail traffic zy indeed! We also picked up cusp of the school holiday season, the from Sprogø to Fyn, the sus- some tanks and added them resort was not yet full. pension bridge features the to our already packed trailer. By the time everything was unpacked, it world’s third longest main I was amazed the car could was getting past dinner time, so we head- span (1.6km or 1mi) and is pull it all. ed into town to see what was open. Not a the longest outside Asia. lot, as it turned out. Fortunately, Café Jazz, Prior to opening to road Lodging situated right on the waterfront was open, traffic in 1998, the only way After another hour, we finally but we had to order fast. We all enjoyed a across from Copenhagen arrived at Middelfart. Our tasty smoked salmon salad as the sun set was by ferry. home for the week was the behind the Old Little Belt Bridge. PETER SYMES Odense Jan Laurenborg Olsen (center) is the owner of Diving 2000 dive center in Odense (above). 19 X-RAY MAG : 105 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO PETER SYMES travel PETER SYMES PETER SYMES PETER SYMES PETER SYMES PETER SYMES LEFT TO RIGHT: Quail's egg-topped beef tartare and tartlets (once served to the Queen, according to the chef); salad of green, cherry and heirloom tomatoes from the inn's garden; braised cod with fresh peas and Danish new potatoes; flying gur- nard fish and chips; Danish cheeses; and a strawberry-rhubarb compote with mascarpone ice cream for dessert including, green, cherry and heirloom, all harvested from the restaurant gar- Culinary adventure has cooked den. The freshness was superb. The next day began with a culinary regularly for Next up, cod braised in rich stock adventure: lunch at a Michelin-star res- the Danish PETER SYMES was seasoned to perfection, served taurant. Our reservation was for noon Royal family. alongside garden-fresh green peas (the only available spot for days) and Pulling up stakes to head to Jutland, tic flower arrangements and eclectic and Danish new potatoes. Chef Henne Kirkeby the drive just over an hour. Being a the master chef now fronts Henne framed prints. Our waiter described Cunningham’s fish and chips was a serious foodie, my anticipation was off Kirkeby Kro, a 300-year-old thatched the mélange of courses, with the menu splendid take on the traditional British the charts. heritage inn renowned as one of reflecting what was in season. We all favourite. Flying gurnard coated with Henne Kirkeby Set near Jutland’s west coast, the Denmark’s top dining venues. Serving opted for the set lunch of five courses a feather-light batter paired with crisp Kro, Chef Paul small village of Henne Kirkeby seemed up field-to-fork gourmet cuisine with with corresponding glasses of wine. chips further tantalized the taste buds. Cunningham's an odd place for a Michelin-star restau- vegetables from the restaurant gar- Although trying to watch my diet, Dessert was a strawberry-rhubarb Michelin-star rant. “What’s it doing way out here?” I den, combined with artisanal local especially regarding fried food, I fig- compote with mascarpone ice cream, restaurant on asked Peter. “The chef is something of produce, the inn draws legions of loyal ured if I was going to throw caution to a thoroughly decadent way to finish. the western a rock star,” he replied with a grin. fans undeterred by the three-hour trip the wind, this would be the place! We were then treated by a visit with coast of Jutland (top left), is Said star was Englishman Paul from Copenhagen. First up was an appetizer of a beef the man himself. Clad in striped apron styled with the Cunningham, a man boasting some tartare topped with a quail’s egg and and Danish slippers, Henne Kirkeby’s clean lines of serious culinary credentials. As the for- Five-course affair tartlets (a favourite of the Danish roy- guru cut an imposing figure. Tall, bald Danish décor, mer executive chef of the now closed Behind the historic façade was an inte- als) served alongside a salad topped and bearded, his smile reminded me accented with Michelin-rated restaurant “The Paul” rior that was cool and contemporary, with edible nasturtiums. A tomato salad of the infectious charm of comedian/ delicate floral in Copenhagen’s Tivoli Gardens, he with crisp whites augmented with artis- featured five different types of tomato actor Ricky Gervais, along with a arrangements.