投稿類別:英文寫作

Title: The Fashion Magnate-

Authors: Li-Wei-Ling. (李唯綾) Yang-Ming Vocational Senior High School of Technology and Commerce. Applied Foreign Language 3B

Liu-Sin-Yi. (劉欣宜) Yang-Ming Vocational Senior High School of Technology and Commerce. Applied Foreign Language 3B

Advisor: Su-Fang-Yi. (蘇芳儀)

The Fashion Magnate－CHANEL

I. Introduction

Vogue is the ultimate in beauty that people always pursue, and it also reflects the evolution of contemporary society culture. “If an artist can answer before a question is asked, he will be the forerunner of times.” [1] Every brand has its distinctive style on design, but if they want to create the immortal classic legend in continuous change of epoch, they can’t only stick to established practice. Originality and breakthrough are the most important key to lead to the fashion.

From 1910 till today, as one of the most recognized and venerated brands in fashion history, the legendary magnate－ Chanel, came from the impoverished streets of France to revolutionize women’s fashion and liberate its restrictions. Chanel’s own brand－‘Chanel’ has changed the modern brand culture and become a vogue representative for a century. These stories behind the success that Chanel has experienced, the processes of innovating and pursuing the value of women are the major reasons for us to discuss. We hope to find the mystery of ‘Chanel’ behind the success by conferring and research in depth.

II. Thesis

1. About ‘Chanel’

‘Chanel’ is weird but beautiful, tacky but futuristic, elegant but stylish, low-keyed but conspicuous on a variety of fashion stage, and it always finds new originality in old element. Nowadays, ‘Chanel’ is a well-known fashion brand, and it is not only a pronoun of elegant vogue but also the most important indicator in fashion trends.

A. The Brand Image of ‘Chanel’ a Logo Design

The image of brand can not be built in a short time, and the value of meaning also can’t be ignored. The brand logo of ‘Chanel’ is a double-C logo; this idea is from the founder－. The first letter of her name is C, so she used the overlapping of C to show this brand. We can always find this logo on the button of dress, the buckle of leather and other related products. This design of logo possesses strong identification of ‘Chanel’.

1 The Fashion Magnate－CHANEL

B. The Creative Process of ‘Chanel’ a. Concept of Design

The author of ‘Chanel’ is Coco Chanel, and she made a name for herself among the who’s who of Paris all the while acquiring a taste for their luxuries and decadent lifestyle. “In order to be irreplaceable one must always be different,” said Chanel. “People laughed at the way I dressed, but that was the secret of my success: I didn’t look like anyone.” [2] Chanel’s concepts of design weren’t like all the others; they were unique, they were simple, and they were practical. It was Chanel who introduced the world to numerous fashion trends that were unheard of at the time, but which soon became the industry standard. Chanel, who pursuits of minimalism, considers that equality is very important, and can’t ignore the femininity. Even if Chanel’s inspirations of creation are from men’s clothing, she never confuses the gender of male and female. Chanel’s concepts of design in suit or trousers are in order to make the work facilitate and the action look more elegant and tidy for woman. b. Current Development

Coco Chanel died in 1971. In 1986, , who is a designer from German, takes over the design of ‘Chanel’. Karl subverts original style of ‘Chanel’. This move shocks all fashion scenes. Karl, the same as Chanel, has rebellious personality and sensitivity of fashion. They pursue perfection and different logic. Karl Lagerfeld led ‘Chanel’ toward another peak and continued the ‘Chanel’ original value.

2. The Introduction of ‘Chanel’ over the Years

In 1910, Chanel opened the first millinery shop on Rue Cambon, Paris. She sewed up many pretty, succinct and practical hats by excellent handiwork.

In 1913, Chanel introduced the sportswear easy to move before the outbreak of World WarⅠ. After that, she introduced the casual wear such as leather coats, jackets and sailor suit.

In 1914, Chanel opened two boutiques, and ‘Chanel’ which influences brand far away was declared to be born.

2 The Fashion Magnate－CHANEL

In 1921, ‘Chanel’ introduced the first perfume－N°5 (It means Chanel number five.) This is the first bottle of perfume named after the designer in history.

In 1926, ‘Chanel’ introduced the classical ceremonial dress, and this design adopted the color of black used only on mourning clothes in that time.

In 1932, ‘Chanel’ introduced the advanced jewelry show to cause a great sensation in Paris. All exhibits are made of platinum and diamond.

In 1939, Chanel closed boutiques because of the outbreak of World WarⅠ, and only perfume and jewelry are sold continually.

In 1954, ‘Chanel’ held a fashion show and introduced many unique clothes to come back the fashion stage, and it raises the second revolution of brand.

In 1955, Coco Chanel obtained the Oscar Award and be called “The most influential women in the 20th century fashion designers.” [3]

In 1971, Chanel died at the age of 88 years old, single.

In 1983, Karl Lagerfeld started to cooperate with ‘Chanel’ and take on the creative director of senior to provide uniforms, clothing and accessories.

In 1986, Karl Lagerfeld is the main designer of ‘Chanel’ and replaces the design power. His interpretation of the meticulous way continued refined, luxury and ‘Chanel’ spirit which means the fashion style never faded away.

3. Fashion Magnate－Chanel

A. Introduction about the Movie

The movie, called” ” is a love film about the life of Coco Chanel. The director of this film is Anne Fontaine, who is nominated in the French Caesar Award, and major impersonator is Audrey Tautou, who has a remarkable performance in ”Priceless”.

“A girl grew in orphanage, a tenderfoot of tailor, a woman who falls in love, a

3 The Fashion Magnate－CHANEL reformer in conservative age; all of these are Coco Chanel.” [4]

B. The Impression

We want to research that how does Chanel founds the times belonging to her, and her outstanding, flexible and active, personality. Chanel strides across a change century.

C. The Background

The real name of Coco Chanel called Gabrielle Chanel, and she was born on August 19th, 1883. Chanel’s mother passed away when Chanel was just twelve years old, and it wouldn’t be long before her father also abandoned her. Chanel and her sister went to live in the orphanage with nuns in Auvergne, France and it was here where Chanel learned much of the etiquette that would characterize her later career. The nuns of orphanage taught them how to be a polite girl and learned initiative skills of sewing techniques, Chanel took an early liking to sewing and instead of playing with dolls, spent much time dressing them in material she had cut from curtains. Supportive of her efforts as a seamstress, the nuns helped Chanel get a local job to build her talents.

When Chanel worked in a knitwear company at twenty years old, she became very famous because of her elegant appearance, but Chanel was bored with the simplicity of her surroundings and decided to pursue a life of excitement and stardom. While singing didn’t prove to be Chanel’s forte, the experience was valuable in that it introduced her to Etienne Balsan, Chanel soon found herself as a mistress to Balsan and living a luxurious life, she participated in the social activities of race course, and found the profound of equestrian world which gives her inspiration of originality. Chanel rekindled her interest in sewing and approached Balsan with a business proposition. With her new taste of the opulent life, Chanel decided to leave Balsan and link onto the arm of his friend, a wealthy businessman by the name of Arthur “Boy” Capel. Capel encouraged that Chanel should pursue her dream, and then he lent her funds to open up a boutique in Paris. Soon after, Chanel opened an additional two boutiques in Biarritz and Deauville with the help from Capel. It wouldn’t be long before Chanel was moving on to bigger and brighter things, turning her single little store into one of the most powerful empires in the fashion industry.

D. Creation and Love

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Chanel is an excellent designer when she was young. The love story with Capel inspired her to continue designing the attire of man style. After that, this style is called neutral. Chanel was using them for the inspiration they were providing her. The men in Chanel’s life can’t give her all dreams and target, however, all of incomplete fragments combine with her life.

E. The Way to Success

In 1939, during World WarⅠ, Chanel closed down her business and began a relationship with a German Nazi officer. Her reputation in the public’s eyes became quickly and irrevocably damaged. She thought her years as a designer were finished and she stayed out the spotlight until 1954, when at the age of 71, Chanel decided to come back to the fashion stage again by introducing the fashion show on February 5th, 1954, and promoted second revolution in clothing industry. After introducing some fashion shows, ‘Chanel’ begins to show the groundswell of vogue.

In 1955, Chanel obtained the Oscar Award and was called “The 20th century's most influential women in fashion designers.” [5] We can experience Chanel’s love and style by her artifacts. Everything about vogue always connects with Chanel; we can find the fashion always in her modeling style and design of costume. She derives inspiration from her life, and create classic. Chanel has said, “People laughed at the way I dressed, but that was the secret of my success: I didn’t look like anyone.” [6] The entire world expresses respects to this grand designer.

4. The Age of Innovation

A. The Style of ‘Chanel’

Coco Chanel is a leader that can influence the trend of fashion. Since 1920, the original design of foundation and unique creative charm of Chanel had personal characteristics and unique style. Chanel had broken into the fashion industry by being a trendsetter, gaining inspiration for her designs largely from her lover’s closet and using traditionally masculine materials to make them. Instead of the ornate pieces of her competitors, Chanel’s creations were minimal and unpretentious yet still sophisticated. Her “” quickly became a staple in the fashion world. Fashion industry had always based on her early designs, and created the new styles. This is called the “Chanel Style” or “Chanel Spirit”.

5 The Fashion Magnate－CHANEL a. The Brand at the beginning

Since 18th century, the women's dress styles from Europe society have been cumbersome and heavy, and these clothes are very beautiful but not practical. It makes difficult to wear for the aristocrat and lady. When walking or getting on the carriage, women must need the servant to help. Chanel disliked the look of corsets and felt that women were taking on too much discomfort in the name of fashion. “Luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not a luxury.” [7] she said. Chanel brings up minimalism that women can dress by self. Chanel set out to bring her unique vision to the fashion industry. She was a resourceful woman who tried to bring her creativity to her products in a distinctive way; she settles a good foundation of success at that time. b Source of Inspiration

Coco Chanel expressed adequately for desire and expectation of love. Because of love, she created her own brand. The craving of knowledge and creativity make Chanel want to know more about new thing. These experiences and understanding behind the love story led Chanel to go to the top of fashion. Most importantly, Chanel taught an attitude by apparel. Chanel found the inspiration for her designs in the simplicities of her everyday life. Chanel never stopped seeking out ideas for new product lines.

5. The Perfume Kingdom of ‘Chanel’

Chanel was an innovative force in the fashion industry despite the fact that she felt the constantly changing nature of fashion trends was a little on the ridiculous side. “I want to create classics.” [8] she exclaimed. Chanel is known as a dress designer, but in 1921, ‘Chanel’ introduced the first perfume－Chanel N°5. When Chanel N°5 was released, it was not only the first perfume to bear a designer’s name, but it also had a distinctly masculine scent and bottle that set it apart from its competitors. The major components of this perfume are selected from a quarter of rose and jasmine, and it also allocates with the fragrance of acetic aldehyde for the first time. This production technology of perfume is a tremendous originality and it makes a huge effect unprecedented and unrepeatable for perfume. N°5 still represents ‘Chanel’ classical perfume.

6. The Perfume Kingdom of ‘Chanel’

6 The Fashion Magnate－CHANEL

Chanel is known as a dress designer, but in 1921, ‘Chanel’ introduced the first perfume －N°5 (Chanel number five), the major components of this perfume are selected from a quarter of rose and jasmine, and it also allocates with the fragrance of acetic aldehyde for the first time. When Chanel No.5 was released, it was not only the first perfume to bear a designer’s name, but it also had a distinctly masculine scent and bottle that set it apart from its competitors.

A. The Birth of N°5

In 1913, Coco Chanel, the fashion queen, uncounted Stravinsky, a modern musician in Russia, they fall in love immediately just like anything will vanishes in a flash. This amorous affair and enthusiastic love fully reveal the courageous femininity and sensitive determination of Chanel. No one knows that this love make up the most famous perfume which is called N°5 indirectly, and it also build the immortal perfume kingdom of ‘Chanel’ in the future.

B. The Style of N°5

N°5 is the first perfume that made from ‘Chanel’, and it also is the first perfume and major composition is the fragrance of flowers simultaneously. Its inspiration is from the quarter rose and jasmine; it combines with luxury and elegance. N°5 shows brave and bold of feminine, and breaks the traditional spirit about perfume in that time. The nice and sweet N°5 makes everybody to remember the sexy of Marilyn Monroe. When reporters interview Marilyn Monroe, they have asked “What do you wear when you go to bed?”, and Marilyn Monroe just said “A few drops of N°5.” [9] with the lazy magnetic voice of luscious lips. This behavior is the best symbol of N°5. After that, N°5 becomes the spiritual symbol of ‘Chanel’ and it also makes every woman crazy about this perfume.

C. The Development of N°5

The N°5 of ‘Chanel’ have to become available in the market for 87 years, but it still is the most popular and in the great demand perfume. N°5 not only is the classical product of ‘Chanel’, but also created many brilliant records. As the times change and many famous brands join this perfume market, this classical perfume adjusts the smell again and joins up with many original and varied elements to continue leading the wave of vogue in perfume industry.

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III. Conclusion

The simple mention of the name ‘Chanel’ and images of luxury, grandeur and haute couture spring up in minds across the world, so we learned that ‘Chanel’ is not just an expensive brand, but the number of important historical significance and fashion innovation.

Chanel, fairly legendary women, can live her splendid feminist inferiority era. “I’ve never done anything by halves,” [10] said Chanel. Her career was characterized by a willingness to be bold, to take risks, to defy convention and to challenge stereotypes. She ignored society’s rules and created a style all her own, offering women exciting new propositions and in opening the door to a new world of fashion freedom to turn the industry on its head.

She never married and had no children, but Chanel had achieved the kind of success that most others only dream about. Today, under the direction of Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel remains one of the most prestigious and successful fashion houses in the world. From this research, we an know Chanel's concept of design, distinctive creativity, her love story to inspire her work, and even how she changes the fashion industry under the feminist inferiority era. We consider Chanel’s success was not accident but effort and persistence and brings profund effect on us.

IV. Reference

Books:

[1] Baudot, Francois. (2003). Chanel. New York: Client Distribution Services.

[2] Morand, Paul. & Lagerfeld, Karl. (2010). The Allure of Chanel. New York: Trafalgar Square.

[3] Justine Picardie. (2009). Coco Chanel. London: Harper Collins UK.

[5] Charles-Roux, Edmonde. (2005). Chanel And Her World: Friends, Fashion, and Fame. New York: Harry N Abrams Inc.

[6] Pons, Gregory. (2003). Temps Chanel. New York: Perseus Distribution Services.

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[7] Madsen, Axel. (1991). Chanel: A Woman of Her Own. Paris: Henry Holt & Co.

[8] Phaidon Press. (2001). The Fashion Book. New York: Phaidon Inc Ltd.

[9] Aveline, Francoise. (2005). Chanel: No.5. New York: Client Distribution Services.

[10] Kapferer, J. N. & Bastien, V. (2009). The Luxury Strategy: Break the Rules of Marketing to Build Luxury Brands. Paris: Kogan Page Ltd.

Website address:

[4] Coco Before Chanel. 2010/03/24 http://tw.movie.yahoo.com/movieinfo_main.html/id=3076

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