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Fenomen Chanel FENOMEN CHANEL od korzeta do male črne obleke ali kako je gabrielle chanel osvobodila žensko uredila mateja gaber Chanel_FINAL.indd 1 21. 07. 2020 12:49:02 FENOMEN CHANEL od korzeta do male črne obleke ali kako je gabrielle chanel osvobodila žensko Uredila: Mateja Gaber Uredniški odbor: Hana Čeferin, Mateja Gaber, Marta Verginella Recenzentki: Almira Sadar, Irena Samide Jezikovni pregled: Hana Čeferin in Mateja Gaber Tehnično urejanje, oblikovanje in prelom: Jure Preglau Oblikovanje naslovnice: Rok Roudi Založila in izdala: Znanstvena založba Filozofske fakultete Univerze v Ljubljani Za založbo: Roman Kuhar, dekan Filozofske fakultete Ljubljana, 2020 Prva izdaja Tisk: Birografika Bori, d. o. o. Naklada: 300 izvodov Cena: 19,90 EUR Knjiga je izšla s podporo Javne agencije za raziskovalno dejavnost Republike Slovenije. To delo je ponujeno pod licenco Creative Commons Priznanje avtorstva-Deljenje pod enakimi pogoji 4.0 Mednarodna licenca (izjema so fotografije). / This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License (except photographs). Prva e-izdaja. Publikacija je v digitalni obliki prosto dostopna na https://e-knjige.ff.uni-lj.si/ DOI: 10.4312/9789610603559 Kataložna zapisa o publikaciji (CIP) pripravili v Narodni in univerzitetni knjižnici v Ljubljani Tiskana knjiga COBISS.SI-ID=21366019 ISBN 978-961-06-0356-6 E-knjiga COBISS.SI-ID=21285891 ISBN 978-961-06-0355-9 (pdf) Chanel_FINAL.indd 2 21. 07. 2020 12:49:02 3 KAZALO PREDGOVOR 5 FENOMEN CHANEL 9 VONJ PO ŽENSKI 13 Tim Prezelj DRUŽBENI KONTEKSTI VONJAV 29 Mojca Ramšak CHANELOV MODERNISTIČNI PROJEKT: MALA ČRNA OBLEKA 41 Tajda Hlačar MALA ČRNA OBLEKA: NASTANEK IN OBSTANEK PRVE ŽENSKE KLASIKE 49 Tina Verbič OBLEKA NAREDI ČLOVEKA 61 Mateja Gaber PIONIRKA ŽENSKEGA OSVOBAJANJA ALI IKONOMODA ZA OSVOBOJENO ŽENSKO 73 Jerca Legan Cvikl Chanel_FINAL.indd 3 21. 07. 2020 12:49:02 4 FENOMEN CHANEL V KONTEKSTU AMERIŠKEGA KULTURNEGA FENOMENA 85 Lara Burazer KAJ IMAJO SKUPNEGA CHANEL, ČASOPISI IN GLEDALIŠČE? 95 Marija Mojca Peternel COCO CHANEL V SLOVENSKIH KNJIŽNICAH 109 Katarina Švab KAKŠEN OKUS IMA VONJ OZIROMA UPOVEDOVALNE STRATEGIJE VONJA V ROMANU PATRICKA SÜSKINDA PARFUM IN NEKAJ VZPOREDNIC IZ VED O VINU, GOBAH, VRTNICAH IN PIVU 125 Darko Čuden BIBLIJA, GRIMMOVE PRAVLJICE IN CHANEL N° 5 141 Milena Mileva Blažić COCO CHANEL IN BALLETS RUSSES: INOVATIVNI PRISTOPI V KOSTUMOGRAFIJI 155 Ana Obid COCO CHANEL IN IGOR STRAVINSKI 167 Nina Misson IKONOGRAFIJA COCO CHANEL 179 Katarina Richter COCO CHANEL KOT CELOSTNA UMETNINA 193 Brane Kovič ŽIVLJENJEPISI AVTORIC IN AVTORJEV 201 IMENSKO KAZALO 209 Chanel_FINAL.indd 4 21. 07. 2020 12:49:02 5 PREDGOVOR V svet dišav nas v svojem besedilu s fi lmskim naslovom Vonj po ženski po- pelje Tim Prezelj, ki raziskuje voh kot enega najstarejših in najpomembnejših čutil, čeprav je njegovo delovanje še vedno slabo pojasnjeno. Osredotoča se na vpetos vonja v socialno vedenje in izpostavi Coco Chanel, ki je svoj par- fum Chanel N° 5 izkoristila za modno revolucijo. Mojca Ramšak se v svojem prispevku Družbeni koncepti vonjav med drugim ukvarja z družbenokultur- nimi konteksti, ki določajo popularnost vonjev in njihovo trženje. Ugotavlja, da tako fi ziološke značilnosti voha kot tudi antropološko razumevanje sveta vonjev pomembno vplivajo na parfumsko industrijo. Tajda Hlačar v svojem prispevku Chanelov modernistični projekt: mala črna obleka opozori na ne- zanemarljiv vpliv, ki ga je fenomen Chanel imel na družbene spremembe in transformacijo mode. Prikaže povezavo med vodilnimi avantgardističnimi oz. modernističnimi smermi in Chanelom, kar med drugim rezultira v mali črni obleki. Prispevek Tine Verbič Mala črna obleka: nastanek in obstanek prve ženske klasike raziskuje vzroke, ki so botrovali pojavu, da je avantgardna mala črna obleka Coco Chanel postala klasika ženskega oblačenja in se kot taka obdržala vse do danes. Avtorica ne izključuje pomembnosti nekaterih drugih modnih oblikovalcev in ugotavlja, da je zametke male črne obleke moč najti v moški modi. Kako so se oblačili v visokem srednjem veku, v svojem članku Obleka naredi človeka razpravlja Mateja Gaber in podrobneje pred- stavi nemška minezengerja Ulricha Lichtensteinskega ter Walterja von der Chanel_FINAL.indd 5 21. 07. 2020 12:49:02 6 PREDGOVOR Vogelweideja. Medtem ko je Ulrich znan kot avtor prvega avtobiografskega romana v nemščini in kot vitez, ki je kot kraljica Venera v ženski preobleki potoval tudi po slovenskem etničnem ozemlju, je Walter veliki nemški pesnik, ki ga kos oblačila – krzneni plašč, darilo passavšega škofa Wolfgerja von Erla, lahko umešča med pripadnike viteškega stanu. Jerca Legan Cvikl poudarja pomembno vlogo Coco Chanel pri osvobajanju in opolnomočenju ženske. V svojem članku Pionirka ženskega osvobajanja se dotakne nekaterih simbo- lov, ki še danes zaznamujejo modno hišo Chanel, ter predstavi poglavitne atribute, s katerimi je Coco Chanel povzročila revolucijo v svetu mode. Lara Burazer, avtorica članka Fenomen Chanel v kontekstu ameriškega kulturne- ga fenomena, analizira fenomen Chanel v kontekstu njegove umeščenosti v ameriški kulturni prostor. Skuša ga razumeti na podlagi nekaterih drugih kulturnih specifik in (tudi) na podlagi primerjave s fenomenom angleščine kot globalnega jezika. Fenomenu Chanel kot pionirju in znanilcu (družbenih) spre- memb pripiše povezovalno vlogo. Mojca Marija Peternel v svojem prispevku Kaj imajo skupnega Chanel, časopisi in gledališče? raziskuje pojavnost Cha- nela v slovenskem in dunajskem časopisju na začetku 20. stoletja, ko se je Coco Chanel začela uveljavljati v svetu mode. Predstavi zgodbo z gledaliških odrov, ki se je zaradi neprimerne omembe Chanelovega parfuma končala s tožbo in denarno poravnavo. Katarina Švab v prispevku Coco Chanel v slo- venskih knjižnicah zelo podrobno predstavi gradivo, ki je na voljo v slovenskih knjižnicah in je kakorkoli povezano s Coco Chanel. Na podlagi izposoje in raz- poreditve gradiva ugotavlja priljubljenost velike modne oblikovalke, obenem pa preverja pogostost knjižničnih prireditev, ki se osredotočajo na fenomen Chanel ali modo nasploh. Darko Čuden se v prispevku Kakšen okus ima vonj oziroma upovedovalne strategije vonja v romanu Patricka Süskinda Parfum in nekaj vzporednic iz ved o vinu, gobah, vrtnicah in pivu ukvarja z upovedo- vanjem vonja oz. voha v pisanem in govorjenem slovenskem jeziku, poišče primere v slovenski umetni in ljudski poeziji ter navede nekaj kriterijev, ki jih avtorji priročnikov o vinu, gobah, vrtnicah in pivu uporabijo za opis vonja. Milena Mileva Blažić išče povezavo med navidez nepovezanima literarnima deloma, ki že vrsto let spadata v kanon (zlasti) evropske literarne dediščine, in reklamo za parfum Chanel N° 5, ki mu pripisujemo vseprisotnost na trgu par- fumov. Avtorica skuša odgovoriti na vprašanje: Kaj imajo skupnega Biblija, Grimmove pravljice in Chanel N° 5. Ana Obid nas popelje v začetke 20. sto- letja, ko si je Ballets Russes šele utiral pot na Zahodu. Prispevek z naslovom Chanel_FINAL.indd 6 21. 07. 2020 12:49:02 PREDGOVOR 7 Coco Chanel in Ballets Russes: inovativni pristopi v kostumografiji prikaže vlogo Coco Chanel, ki jo je odigrala ne samo v odnosu do Djagileva, temveč do ključnih osebnosti iz sveta umetnosti v začetnih letih prejšnjega stole- tja. Nina Misson v svojem prispevku Coco Chanel in Stravinski podrobneje predstavi razmerje med modno ikono in Igorjem Stravinskim. Coco je bila zaslužna za ponovno uprizoritev Posvetitve pomladi, ki jo je finančno znatno podprla, obenem pa je ruskemu skladatelju in njegovi družini ponudila dom v svoji vili Bel Respiro. Ikonografija Coco Chanelje prispevek Katarine Richter, ki raziskuje številne simbole, ki so zaznamovali ustvarjalno delo Coco Chanel. Analiza preteklosti nam lahko ponuja nekatere razlage zanje, veliko simbolov pa nam zaradi kontradiktornih izjav Coco Chanel še danes ostaja nepojasnje- nih in nerazložljivih. Brane Kovič v svojem zaključnem eseju Coco Chanel kot celostna umetnina povzame različna dejstva, spoznanja in tudi domneve, ki so in še spremljajo podobo Coco Chanel. Na podlagi širokega poznavanja umetnostnih in zgodovinskih tokov jo umesti v širši kontekst. Chanel_FINAL.indd 7 21. 07. 2020 12:49:03 Chanel_FINAL.indd 8 21. 07. 2020 12:49:03 9 FENOMEN CHANEL I. Filozofska fakulteta Univerze v Ljubljani v sodelovanju z Naravoslovnoteh- niško fakulteto v letu 2020 z velikim projektom znanstvenega simpozija, izdajo monografi je ter modno revijo obeležuje historična dogodka v svetu mode. Pred 100 leti je francoska modna hiša Chanel začela svojo zmago- vito pot z ikoničnim parfumom Chanel N° 5, ki je postal eden izmed naj- bolj zaželenih luksuznih objektov 20. in 21. stoletja. Vzporedno z zgodbo ikoničnega parfuma pa je nastala tudi mala črna obleka, kreacija Gabrielle Chanel, ki je revolucionarno posegla v dotedanje modno oblikovanje ter z njo osvobodila žensko telo. Projekt Fenomen Chanel tvorijo trije večji sklo- pi: znanstveni simpozij, izid znanstvene monografi je ter modni dogodek. Medtem ko prva dva sklopa osmišljata družbeno in zgodovinsko ozadje fe- nomena Chanel v vsej njegovi kompleksnosti, je slednji rezultat večmeseč- nega ustvarjanja študentov modnega oblikovanja Naravoslovnotehniške fakultete ter modnih oblikovalk in oblikovalcev, ki bodo na novo tematizirali in interpretirali malo črno obleko. Fenomen Chanel je projekt, ki združuje študentke in študente, mlade ustvarjalce in teoretike Univerze v Ljubljani ter slovenske modne oblikovalke in oblikovalce. Naslov projekta Fenomen Chanel, ki je v svojem podnaslovu baročno po- jasnjevalen (Od korzeta
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