Balen newsletter – May / June 2013 1
We are very happy to introduce our rst and rather extensive newsletter where we present our new producers and also new wines from already familiar estates in our portfolio. In most cases these are very little known and relatively undervalued tiny producers that are highly sought after by wine lovers and connoisseurs all over the world. On this page you can nd a geographical overview of the wineries that are described in detail on the below pages. Firstly we will cover the enormously diverse wine scene in Italy (p. 2 11), then we will brie y jump to the refreshing New Zealand (p. 12 13) and Germany (p.14) and nally nnish with good old France (p. 15 22). Happy discoveries!
Kellerei Terlan
Alto Adige Cantina Parocco – ienda San Michele Friuli Livio Felluga Cantina P duttori Nebbiolo di Carema
Piedmonte
Kumeu River Tenuta Degli Dei Toscana Tenuta dell'Ornellaia
CCaampmpaanniaia Montevetrano Basilicata Nanni Copé Elena Fucci
Argi
Egon Müller
Domaine Jean Jacques Confuron Domaine Arnoux Lachaux Domaine Geantet Pansiot Domaine Anne Gros
Chateau Belle Brise Chateau Clinet
Mas de Daumas Gassac Domaine Anne Gros & Jean Paul Tollot
Balen – Connoisseur T +372 6000 950 Läike tee põik 1, Rae vald 75312 Harjumaa www.balen.ee [email protected] Balen newsletter – May / June 2013 2
2011 Sabbie di Sopra il Bosco, Terre del Volturno IGT, Campania, Nanni Copé
In 2009 Giovanni Ascione discovered a 2 hectae vineyard near his hometown of Caserta. Vigna Sopra il Bosco vineyard is located in Campania, near the city of Caserta in Castel Campagnano province, just north of Naples and about 30 km from the sea. Nanni Copé was Giovanni's nickname when he was a child. It is a beautiful, unpolluted area with vineyards alternating with woods and highly draining sandy and clay soils. e vineyard is on a 13 25% slope and 220 meters above the sea level. Soil is very poor with Caiazzo sandstones (6 million years old). e Taburno and Matese mountain massifs are nearby and the middle course of Volturno river ows by. e vines are on average 30 years old. e main grape is Pallagrello Nero – a late variaty with thick skin and ultra ne silky tannins. ere is also some Aglianico (giving the wine structure and acidity) and a very small share of 130 year old ungrafted Casavecchia. Sabbie di Sopra is made of 90% Pallagrello Nero, 5% Aglianico and 5% Casavecchia. e plants are registred one by one and the vinyard is divided into 4 sectors subject to different pruning, foliage management, surface management and harvesting approaches. e whole agronomic philosophy is aimed at minimizing intervetions. e use of herbicides or pesticides is utterly excluded. Harvesting is performed row by row, sometimes plant by plant based only on the desired maturation level over 2 week time period even though the vinyard is tiny. Average yield is around 25 hl/ha. ere is no distinguishing between variaties and they are pressed together, only factor is the maturation level of the grapes. Fermentation and masceration takes place is small steel vats at 26 degrees and maceration lasts for 16 19 days. Malolactic fermentation is in 500 litre French tonneaux, where the wine is also later aged for 12 months (25% new wood, 25% one year old, 25% two year old, 25% three year old). Bottle aging later for 8 months. e yields in 2011 were lower than normal and only 6100 bottles were produced. e taste is very surprising. As opposed to international grape variaties, the indigenous variaties in the south of Italy have a very good way of keeping good acidity, even in the very hot climate. In addition, due to the unique location of the vinyard, this wine has relatively low pH (3.63) and alcohol level (13.2%). For this reason you initially feel freshness and good fruity acidity. is wine is enjoyable young but keeps very well for the next 10 15 years.
Gambero Rosso 3/3 glasses (2010 vintage) Euro 46,40 / bottle Very limited availability
llagrello Nero DNA analysis shows close genetic relationship with Casavecchia. Very low yields and extremely rich in anthocyanins (the higher the level the better tannin retention and aging potential). Has been found only in the Caserta area and there are in total only around 25 hectares in the world. Casa cchia Ancient dark skinned variaty exclusive to Caserta area in Campania. First found in 19th century in Caserta. DNA shows no concrete relationship with other variaties, remotely to Pallagrello Nero. Just a few hectares have still survived in the Caserta area (100+ years old).
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Montevetrano, Colli di Salerno IGT, Campania 2007 / 2008 / 2010
Silvia Imparato's Montevetrano estate is a boutique winery located also in Campania, south of Napels, in San Cipriano Picentino, around 100 meters above sea level. Montevetrano is a Colli di Salerno IGT red wine made from 60% Cabernet Sauvignon 30% Merlot and 10% Aglianico Taurasi. First vintage was produced only in 1993 and the wine has now achieved an almost cult status. Annual production is only around 30 000 bottles. e wine is often described as Sassicaia of southern Italy due to is elegance and longetivity. e Monteventrano vineyard is 5 hectares with south west exposre and hilly landscape. Average age of the vines is 12 years. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel for 20 days and there is quite long skin maceration of 20 days. Full malolactic fermentation is performed. Monteventrano is aged 10 14 months in new 225 litre French barriques and 6 months in the bottle before release. e wine bene ts from its coastal location and mild climate (the vineyard is protected by the Picentini Mountain peaks). e wine usually has scents of woodland with hints of violet, blackberry and cherry. Spiced tones drawing on liquorice, myrtle, cinnamon, chocolate, mint and tobacco also appear. With age Monteventrano turns from huge concentration into elegance and has very long aging potential (15+ years). Montevetrano has achieved huge cricial acclaim from international and Italian wine guides alike. Last ten vintages have all received maximum 3 glasses from Gambero Rosso, 5 grappoli from Duemilavini and always over 92 points from the Wine Advocate. Montevetrano is regulary included in the Top 100 red wines of Italy 9th in 2013 (vintage 2010) and 12th in 2011 (vintage 2008). We have a small selection of 3 vintages of Montevetrano:
2010 Gambero Rosso (3/3 glasses) L'Espresso (17/20) Duemilavini (5/5 grappoli) Wine Advocate (96/100) Euro 75 / bottle Very limited availability
2008 Gambero Rosso (3+/3 glasses) L'Espresso (18e/20) Duemilavini (5/5 grappoli) Wine Advocate (94+/100) Euro 75 / bottle Very limited availability
2007 Gambero Rosso (3+/3 glasses) L'Espresso (18e/20) Duemilavini (5/5 grappoli) Wine Advocate (95/100) Euro 83 / bottle Very limited availability
2011 Core di Montevetrano, Campania IGT, Montevetrano
With the 2011 vintages comes a new wine from Montevetrano called Core (in local dialect it means 'heart'). Core is 100% Aglianico that is sourced from a particular Aglianico plot on the estate and also from growers in Benevento area who work closely with Montevetrano winemarker Riccardo Cotarella who is one of the most well regarded winemakers in Italy. e vineyards have mostly clay composition with south eastern exposure and are located 400 meters above sea level. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in stainless steel for 15 days. Length of maceration is 8 days. Core is aged in new 225 litre French barriques for 10 months and 4 bottles in the bottle before release. Annual production is only 15 000 bottles. is deep ruby red wines displays aromas of red fruits and spices with undertones of licorice, earth and leather. Excellent pairing with roasted lamb, grilled tenderloin and ripe cheeses. Very good introduction to Monteventrano's house style. Euro 24,10 / bottle
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2010 Titolo, Aglianico del Vulture DOC, Basilicata, Elena Fucci
In less than a decade and producing just one wine from her family's vinyard on Monte Vulture, Elena Fucci has created a new classic in Italian winemaking. e wine is called Titolo (100% Aglianico), named after the local volcanic territory. Monte Vulture, a 1326 metre high extinct volcano in northern Basilicata, lends its name to Basilicata’s most signi cant wine Aglianico del Vulture. Aglianico has somewhat of a mythical reputation and, as one of Italy’s noble red grapes, is said by many to be the ‘Barolo of the south’. On the steep slopes of Monte Vulture the vines bene t from the intense sunlight of the south and, at these altitudes, the dramatic day and night temperature differences that promote freshness and acidity. e climate is relatively cool and Elena promotes a very late harvest (last week of October) in order to allow the tannins, and especially in the grape pips, time to ripen properly. Elena has in total 6 hectares of vineyards, out of which 3.5 hectares are over 65 year old bush vines. ey are located on sloped terraces around 650 meters above sea level on volcanic lava and ash soil. She produces maximum 18 000 bottles a year, which means each hectare produces around 30 tonnes when as much as 115 tonnes could be produced using other farming techniques. e grapes are handpicked, de stemmed, crushed and then fermented in steel at 28 degrees. Malolactic fermentation takes place in 100% new French oak barriques where the wine also matures for 12 months. e wine is ned in the bottle for another 6 months before release. Titolo is intensly aromatic with ripe dark berry fruit, full bodied palate displays complex notes of tobacco, chocolate, leather, rosemary, cinnamon, spice and liquorice. Dry and long aftertaste with rm tannins. Despite the overall largeness of the wine, it is incredibly fresh and enjoyable now but will age for decades. Elena started producing wine only in 2000 when the family discussed whether to sell the beautiful vineyards that surround the house where Elena grew up. e vineyards were acquired in the 1960's by Elena's grandfather Generoso who bought the highest part of the land at the foot of volcano. Over the years, Elana's grandfather and great grandfather took care of the vines and sold the grapes. Elena could not bear to sell the land where she grew up and decided to study viticulture and take over the estate. It is remarkable that all of the vintages produced by Elena have received huge critical acclaim and Gambero Rosso has awarded the maximum score of three glasses to Titolo for the last ten vintages. Furthermore, in the Gambero Rosso guide Titolo is one out of total three wines that has received three glasses in the Basilicata region. Gambero Rosso 3/3 glasses Duemilavini 5/5 grappoli Euro 45 / bottle Available beginning of June
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Cantina Produttori Nebbiolo di Carema, Piedmonte
Carema wine is basically unknown outside of Piedmonte, not to mention internationally. However, it has been held in great esteem by knowledgable wine lovers around the world for centuries. Carema DOC (since 1967) is quite unique because it refers to only 13 hectares and 3 producers. e village of Carema lies in a lovely sunny basin in northwest Piedmont, on the border with Valle d'Aosta. Carema has the most extreme terroir of all northern Nebbiolos and a fascanating subtle and complex character with tangy mineral intensity. It is a challenging place to grow vines and much patience is needed. e vinyards sit 750 meters above sea level on a series of terraces that rise dramatically toward the mountains. Carema wines are ideal for fans of racy, old fashioned Nebbiolo and have a very good price quality ratio, being often half the price of similar level Barolos and Barbarescos. Carema DOC wine has to be at least 85% Nebbiolo and indications „Carema“ and „Carema Riserva“ are usually used on the labels. First category requires minimum aging of 3 years with at least 24 months in large oak or chestnut barrels. e Riserva requires a minimum aging of 4 years with at least 30 months in large oak or chestnut barrels. e Cantina dei Produttori Nebbiolo di Carema winery was founded in 1960 by a group of ten growers and has now developed into the most quali ed operation for the production of Carema wine. Currently 81 growers supply grapes to the Cantina that are processed only by hand. Today Cantina dei Produttori Nebbiolo di Carema is the largest of the three producers, making around 60 000 bottles annually. 2009 Carema Classico DOC, Piedmonte
100% Nebbiolo that is fermented in steel vats. e wine matures 24 months in large oak barrels and 12 more months in bottle. e arome has spicy notes of cinnamon and nutmeg. On the palate the acidity is nicely integrated with mild notes of oak aging. Intense nish with spicey notes. Aging potential well over 10 years.
Gambero Rosso – 2/3 glasses
Euro 19,20 / bottle Available 23 May 2008 Carema Riserva DOC, Piedmonte
100% Nebbiolo that is fermented in steel vats. e wine matrues 30 months in large oak barrels and 12 months in bottle. On the nose notes of dried owers with generous hints of sweet spice, cinnamon, liquorice and cocoa powder. Very balanced palate with mild tannins. Aging potential over 20 30 years.
Gambero Rosso – 3/3 glasses Euro 24 / bottle Available 23 May
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2009 Barbaresco DOCG, Piedmonte, Azienda San Michele (Cantina Parocco)
e parish priest of Neive together with three vinegrowers founded Aziende San Michele in 1973. Currently the farm owns 6 hectares of vineyards in the crus of Gallina, Cotta and Gaia. Barbaresco coming from the Neive village area is known for its power, full bodied structure and strong tannins. Neive is responsible for around 30% of total Barbaresco production and Gallina is considered to be the most recognized cru in Neive. Barbaresco DOCG stipulates that the wine must be aged for a minimum of 2 years, with at least 1 year in oak. is Barbaresco is made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes that come from the Gallina and Gaia sites. e vines are quite old that give very low yields. e wine has been aged in used oak barrels for 12 months and then kept in the bottle for another year. e aroma has notes of cherry, fennel and licorice. As the wine ages smokey notes, more earthy and animal avours like leather and tar develop. is wine is very approachable when young and it is recommended to try this wine rst when at least 4 years old (2013). Aging potential is at least 15 years. Because the vineyards belong to the parish, their aim is not to make pro t. erefore this wine is priced very reasonably for a Barbaresco.
Euro 24,90 / bottle
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Tenuta Degli Dei, Toscana (Tommaso & Roberto Cavalli) e bond between Tomasso Cavalli and his land has its origins in a true passion which has taken shape in the form of the estate owned by the family since the early seventies, Tenuta degli Dei, to which Tommaso and his father Roberto have devoted thirty years of intensive work. e estate is located in the village of San Leolino near Panzano in Chianti. e vineyards have been planted in the Conca d'Oro valley which thanks to its soil and exposure to sunlight is perfectly suitable for wine growing. Tenuta Degli Dei embodies the Cavalli family's lifelong commitment to farming, wine making and horse breeding. Panzano's soil is rich in marl and well drained allowing the vines to absorb the soil's minerals. Grape varieties are of French origin: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Harvest is done manually. After hand picking, the grapes are placed on two vibrating surfaces where two selection stages are carried out, one for the clusters and one for the berries in order to select the best ones. Tommaso Cavalli is personally involved in the production of his wines, taking advantage of the valuable oenological expertise of Carlo Ferrini (one of the Tuscany's and Italy's foremost wine consultants). Carlo is also consulting for Poliziano winery in Toscana (also in our portfolio). Tenuta Degli Dei is considered to be one the most interesting upcoming stars in the winemaking scene in Tuscany. is is also re ected in the positive feedback from various international wine guides. 2009 Cavalli, Toscana Rosso IGT
e wine is made from 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Petit Verdot and 15% Cabernet Franc. e vineyards are 350 meters above sea level. Alcoholic fermentation lasts 8 10 days with maceration 10 14 days. Malolactic fermentation takes place in large barrels (tonneaux) where the wine also ages for 18 months. Afterwards the wine stays in the bottle for another 12 months. Sweet red cherries, liquorice, mint and owers on the nose. Dense cherry and cassis fruit on the palate. Good pinch of acidity and ne grainy tannins. Well balanced, a little bit of Bordeaux and lots of Tuscany. Consultant enonologist Carlo Ferrini's signature velvet treatment. Annual production is 23 000 bottles. Wine Advocate 92 points (2012 2019) Wine Enthusiast 94 points (2015 2021+) Jancis Robinson 17.5/20 (2013 2018) Euro 49,10 / bottle Very limited availability 2011 Le Redini, Toscana Rosso IGT
is wine is made from 90% Merlot and 10% Alicante. Alcoholic fermentation lasts 8 10 days with maceration of 10 14 days. Malolactic fermentation takes place in large barrels (tonneaux) where the wine also ages for 10 months. Afterwards the wine is ned in the bottle for another 6 months. Herbal nose with cherry, spcice and tobacco notes. Bold roundness and soft berry nuances on the nish. Well made elegant wine with easygoing personality. Annual production is 34 000 bottles. Gambero Rosso 2/3 glasses Wine Enthusiast 88 points (2014 – 2020) Euro 24,10 / bottle Very limited availability
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Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, Toscana is is one of the most beautiful wine estates in Bolgheri, if not the entire country. In short, a benchmark for winemaking. Established in 1981, Tenuta dell'Ornellaia has changed hands several times but is now owned by the Frescobaldi family. e vineyards are located around the cellar on the Ornellaia estate and in the neighbouring Bellaria area, in total over 75 hectares. e soils in these locations are extremely diverse – marine and volcanic – thereby creating an unique combination of terroirs for Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Vintage usually begins in the rst 10 days of September for Merlot and lasts into the early days of October for Cabernet. Everything is handpicked and the grapes from each vineyard are vini ed separately. e fruit undergoes double selection in the winery. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks between 26 and 30 degrees for one week, followed by 15 days maceration on the skins. e wine is then transferred to French oak barrels for maturation. rough tasting, the wines for inclusion in the Ornellaia blend are selected. is is followed by a separate selection of the wines to be used in Le Serre Nuove, the estate's second wine. 2010 vintage marks Ornellaia 25th anniverssary. To celebrate this milestone the estate has comissioned Michelangelo Pistoletto to create a special label which is on every 2010 Ornellaia bottle. 2010 Ornellaia, Bolgheri Superiore DOC Ornellaia is considered to be one of the Italian „First Growth“ wines. It is a remarkable Bordeaux style cuvee that embodies a unique quality pedigree and style, renowened as one of the nest wines from Italy. 2010 vintage has the following composition: 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. e wine is aged in 70% new French oak barriques for 18 months, after the rst 12 months the wine is assembled and returned to oak for the remaining 6 months. Afterwards the wine also rests 12 months in the bottle prior to release. 2010 vintage was among the coolest and latest ripening in recent years and yielded one of the most elegant expressions of Ornellaia. A deep ruby hue announces remarkable complexity on the nose with fragrances of dark wild berry, spice and smooth tobacco. e palate is nesse par excellence with silky tannins and clean edged fruit, crowned with a nish boasting impressively racy tannins. For the 2010 vintage, there are also a limited number of bottles available in a single box format as opposed to the traditional wooden case of 6. Euro 195 / bottle Euro 468 / magnum Very limited availability
2010 Le Serre Nuove, Bolgheri DOC Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia is a true ‘Second Vin’ of Ornellaia and delivers the great experience of the Ornellaia estate in a more informal style. Produced primarily from the younger vineyards with the same scrupulous quality philosophy of the agship wine. is wine is composed of 45% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc and 9% Petit Verdot. e wine is aged in 25% new French oak barriques for 15 months, after the rst 12 months the wines is assembled and returned to oak for the remaining 3 months. After bottling, the wine is aged another 6 months prior to release. e wine shows off tons of concentration and sheer depth. Mocha, espresso, dark cherries and plums are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass. e 2010 is a powerful wine. Wine Advocate 93 points (2017 2027) Euro 54,60 / bottle
Balen – Connoisseur T +372 6000 950 Läike tee põik 1, Rae vald 75312 Harjumaa www.balen.ee [email protected] Balen newsletter – May / June 2013 9
Kellerei Cantina Terlan, Alto Adige
Founded in 1893, the Cantna Terlano winery is now one of the leading wine growers' cooperatives in South Tyrol. Currently there are 143 growers working on a total area of 165 hectares. All of the members have a long and strong focus on quality which has attracted a lot of recognition from Italian and international wine guides alike. e winery is in South Tyrol in Alto Adige region which is Italy's northernmost province. Here the Alpine peaks go hand in hand with the Mediterranean scenery. e vineyards around Terlano are all with DOC classi cation and are located at elevations between 300 900 meters above sea level. e lower sites are better suited for Cabernet and other heavy reds, whereas Pinot Noir and the white wines are more at home at higher (and therefore cooler) levels. e soil is mostly red rock with volcanic origin, that consists of acidic lavas and minerals like quarz. e topsoil contains high proportion of coarse grains of siliceous stone and sand. 2010 Montigl, Alto Adige DOC is wine is 100% Pinot Noir. e traces of this grape variaty can be traced back to the 14th century in this location, a re ection that these Montigl terraces and fertile soils are ideal for the production of Pinot Noir. Montigl vineyard is on average 600 meters above sea level on a steep 20 60% slope. e vines are on average 12 years old and the yield is 50 hectolitres per hectare. e grapes are harvested manually, destemmed and followed by slow must fermentation in stainless steel tanks. Full malolactic fermentation and aging in big wooden barrels (50%) and in small barriques (50%) that are 1/3 new every year. Annual production is 32 000 bottles. On the nose – delicate fruit aromas of wild strawberries and blackberries with restrained aromas of tobacco and int, also notes of white eld mushrooms. On the palate – well balanced with mineral elegance. Long and exciting nish. e best Pinot Noir from Italy.
Euro 24,60 / bottle 2012 Terlaner, Alto Adige DOC is wine is a composition of Terlano's three most traditional white variaties Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Sauvignon. Pinot Bianco, as a main variaty, provides the freshness and good acidity, while Chardonnay delivers a pleasing warmth and mellowness and Sauvignon adds the ne aromatic character. e wine is 60% Pinot Bianco, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Sauvignon Blanc. First vintage of this wine was already made in 1893. e vineyards are on average 250 500 meters above sea level on a 5 35% slope with southwest exposure. e yield is 56 hectolitres per hectare. Manual harvest and selection of grapes, gentle whole cluster pressing and slow fermentation in stainless steel tanks. e wine ages on the lees in steel tanks for 7 monhts. Annual production is 240 000 bottles. Aromas of green apple and white peach combine with nuances of lemon and mint. On the palate peach is very strong. Terlaner is well structured, fresh and mineral. Very persistent nish. Euro 15,40 / bottle
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2011 Nuaré, Rosso Delle Venezie IGT, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Livio Felluga
Livio Felluga is without a doubt the best producer in the Friuli region. It was in the 1950s that Livio Felluga (now 98 years old) established his estate by acquiring his rst rows of vines. Livio Felluga wines are instantly recognizable thanks to their distinctive label which bears a map of the estate's hills and was conceived by Livio himself in 1956. Today, Livio's four children manage the substantial vineyard holdings of 155 hectares. Livio Felluga has earned a remarkable 21 times the prestigious 'three glass' award from Gambero Rosso (over the guide's 26 editions) and that ranks the winery among the top 25 estates in Italy. It is a good company to be in, other names include: Gaja, Ca'del Bosco, Elio Altare, Allegrini, Tenuta San Guido, Tasca d'Almerita, Ornellaia, Isole e Olena, Argiolas, Montevetrano, Poliziano etc. We have a few cases of their new wine, called Nuaré. Due to limited availability, this wine is only sold on the Italian market, so it is a great opportunity to sample this quite interesting blend in Estonia. Nuaré is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Merlot. Pinot Noir gives the wine a good acidic pro le, freshness and delicacy, whereas Merlot adds a bit of roundness and softness. e vineyards are situated on gravel and limestone dominated soil, located on highly sloped terraces in high altitudes. e grapes are hand picked in the rst week of October, destemmed and softly crushed. Maceration and alcoholic fermentation takes place in stainless steel vats for 21 days. e wine is then matured in French oak barriques for 12 months and in the bottle another 4 months. e aroma is elegant, fresh, lively with notes of good fruitiness and earthiness. On the palate, the wine is very soft and velvety. Slightly sweet tannins are well integrated with fresh acidity. Aftertaste is intensly fruity. Euro 21,70 / bottle
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2008 Turriga, Isola dei Nuraghi IGT, Sardinia, Argiolas (Limited Edition Collectors Gift Box)
2008 vintage marks the 20th anniverssary of a wine that marked the entrance of Sardinia into the elite of international wine world – the much awarded Turriga by Argiolas. To celebrate this occasion, Argiolas has put together a celebratory casket that contains a bottle of 2008 Turriga with a label design by Antonio Marras, a jazz CD from Paolo Fresu and a book by Marcello Fois. e central source of inspiration: love for Sardinia. All the artists are from Sardinia and it is a synergy of emotions, sounds, colours, avours and aromes from all four cournes fo the island that creates an unique multi sensoral experience.
Antonio Marras is the head designer for Kenzo fashion house. He has designed the celebratory casket as well as the bottle of 2008 Turriga. is is a limited edition box, with only 2000 caskets made.
Turriga is red wine with great character and strength. Its qualities re ect those of the prenuragic sculpture on the label, from which it takes its name. e sculpture represents a strong and proud femininity, typical of Sardinian women and the girl portrayed in Marras’s watercolour, on the bottle label celebrating the twentieth anniversary, is the heiress of the 5000 year old sculpture.
Turriga was rst made in 1988 by the most famous Italian oenologist Giacomo Tachis who has also created such wines as: Sassicaia (1968), San Leonardo (1983) and Solaia (1985). e wine is made from four grape variaties – Cannonau, Carignano, Bovale and Malvasia Nera. e wine ages is 100% new American barrels for 18 months. Turriga has very long aging potential (20+ years).
Gambero Rosso 3/3 glasses Duemilavini 5/5 grappoli
Euro 199 / gift box Very limited availability Available last week of May
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Kumeu River Winery, Auckland, Uus-Meremaa 1/2
Kumeu River estate was established in 1944 when Mick and Kate Brajkovich and their son Maté rst came to the Kumeu region. ey had arrived to New Zealand in 1937 from Croatia. After working in local vineyards they had saved enough money to purchase the Kumeu property. During the 1980s the winery took on a totally new focus – quality and reputition. e winery changed its name to Kumeu River and began producing a Burgundy in uenced style of Chardonnay that featured indigeneous yeasts, extended lees aging and maloctic fermentation. In the years since, the Chardonnays of Kumeu River have gained international awards and accolades. And it is not uncommen to nd the wines of Kumeu River next to the most prestigious white wines of the world. In addition, Kumeu River wines have been included 8 times in the Wine Spectator Top 100 wines (selected from more than 19 000 wines annually). e winery is situated well north of New Zealand's other viticultural regions, 1 hour north of Auckland. It is quite an unique location because the climate is kept cool thanks to its close proximity to the Tasman Sea (15 km to the west) and the Paci c Ocean (20 km to the east). ese two large water bodies generate clouds and help to moderate the climate, keeping peak summer temperatures always below 30 degrees. ese conditions contribute and enchance the fantastic aromas of early ripening variatels such as Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. Today, the 3rd generation of Brajkovich's own 30 hectares of vineyards and produce around 250 000 bottles annually. e soil is predominantly clay with overlaying standstone base. ese soil types retain sufficient water at depth, even during the summer months, so there is no need for irrigation. is factor is critical to the quality of Kumeu River's grapes.
„If you can taste history, duty and family pride in a glass, it’s there in the Kumeu River Chardonnays... now producing some of New Zealand’s greatest Chardonnays, not to mention the world’s.“ Wine Advocate One of the distinguishing factors for Kumeu River's wines is that all of the grapes are harvested by hand and whole bunch pressed. Only indigeneous wild yeasts are used to enhance the texture and complexity. An important part of the winemaking process is barrel fermentation in a careful blend of new and old French oak barrels. Although common in red wines, malolactic fermentation was not usually practiced in white wine making 30 years ago. Brajkovich's introduced this style of fermentation in the early 1980's. is natural process reduces wine acidity and complexes the avour pro le. e result is a much better acid balance and improved drinkability.
2009 Kumeu River Village Chardonnay
e wine is fermented in 1/3 French oak barriques and 2/3 in stainless steel vats to allow emphasis on the ripe peach and melon aromas of the Chardonnay fruit. is is the wine to drink while you wait for the other Chardonnay's to get more bottle age. is year’s Village Chardonnay features very attractive lifted fruit aromas, along with a touch of nuttiness: the hint of hazelnut that is so typical of Chardonnay. e palate also shows a nice peachy ripeness along with a crisp inty character that gives the wine a refreshing cleansing quality.
Wine Advocate 88 points (2013 2014)
Euro 19,70 / bottle 2009 Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay
Most mineral Kumeu River wine thanks to high altitude. 100% barrel fermentation where wine is also aged for 11 months. is wine will improve with bottle age for 4 8 years. Sometimes compared to Premier Cru's of Burgundy (e.g. Puligny Montrachet, Chassagne Montrachet). e 2009 Hunting Hill is beautifully fragrant with its lemon/lime blossom characters and lovely fruit purity. e Hunting Hill vineyard has a particularly pure character that, in its youth, displays a tight and crisp palate which needs some bottle age to reveal the power and concentration that lies beneath the surface.
Wine Advocate 94 points (2013 2019+)
Euro 39,50 / bottle 2009 Kumeu River Mate's Vineyard Chardonnay
Considered to be best vinyard at Kumeu River and only 1000 cases are produced. 100% barrel fermentation where wine is also aged for 11 months. is wine will improve with bottle age for 5 10 years. Sometimes compared to top Corton Charlemagne. e nose is very closed, just giving hints of the golden peach and mineral notes. On the palate, the avour is very concentrated but maintaining a perfect balance and freshness that sets this wine apart and makes it wonderful.
Wine Advocate 94+ points (2013 2019+)
Euro 44,90 / bottle Very limited availability
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2011 Kumeu River Estate Pinot Gris 2/2
e grapes are separated from stems. Partial malolactic fermentation. Fermentation was stopped at 9.4 grams per litre of residual sugar. Acid level is 6 grams per litre. e aromas have typical peach and stone fruit notes tinged with the oral perfume. On the palate the wine is rich with an oily texture.
Wine Advocate 88 points (2013 2014)
Euro 27,30 / bottle
2009 Kumeu River Estate Pinot Noir
e grapes are destemmed. 2 3 weeks maceration on the skins. 11 months in French barriques. e wine has aromas of ripe strawberries and cherries. ere are also the lovely bouquets of smoky oak and dried leaves. On the palate the texture is very smooth and velvety, with warmth and length of avour, and an elegantly full nish. Drink during the next 2 6 years.
Euro 27,30 / bottle
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Egon Müller, Mosel, Germany
e Rieslings from Egon Müller are widely recognised as amongst the very best in Germany (and in the entire world for that matter) and he is considered to be without any doubt Germany's number one producer. He is also the only German member in Primum Familiae Vini – an elite group of 11 family owned producers. Some of the other members are: Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Sassicaia, Famille Perrin and Vega Sicilia. Egon Müller wines are clearly insider's wines and not meant for the mass market. e estate's rarest and sweetest wine – Trockenbeerenauslese can fetch 4 thousand Euros a bottle and it is only sold in the annual wine auction in Trier.
Egon Müller estate (currently 4th genegration) has been in the hands of the Müller family since 1797. Egon IV owns just 8 hectares of vines (out of which 3 hectares are ungrafted and over 100 years old) in the world famous 28 hectare Scharzhofberg vineyard in the Saar region of Mosel. Scharzhofberg is classi ed as a 'premier cru' site and is probably the most famous vineyard in Mosel. e vines are on heavily terraced slopes (35 70 degree gradient) and this makes the work in the vineyard extremely difficult. It is often claimed that nearly 7 times more man hours are needed in Mosel over the course of a season than in atter regions like the Médoc for example. e soil is composed of gray and red slate. All grapes are hand harvested, then pressed without any skin contact before being fermented in large 1000 litre oak casks. e wines are usually bottled 6 months later. e wines are famous for re ned and elegant style with salty mineral tones and quite high acidity. ey exhibit legendary aging potential.
2012 Scharzhof Riesling QbA, Mosel is the property’s most accessible wine and a good introduction to the Egon Müller range. Scents of lemon, lime and white fruits on the nose. On the palate you can taste some apple skin and hints of spices. Pineappale and vanilla notes appear on the long nish. Enjoy it over the next 3 10 years.
Euro 34,90 / bottle Very limited availability Available in June
2012 Scharzhofberger Kabinett Riesling, Mosel Nut oil and sweet herbs on the nose. Supple apricot, peach and raspberry on the palate with nice balance between sweetness and acidity. Elegant nish with minerality and gooseberry. Enjoy it over the next decade but it will last 20+ years.
Euro 67,40 / bottle Very limited availability Available in June
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Chateau Belle Brise 2 2004 / 2009 /2010
e La Fontaine de Coincy family has been present in the history of France since the 13th century. At an early age, Henri Bruno de la Fontaine de Coincy, former employee of Suez Bank in Paris, got interested in the Domaine de Toujun in the Bas Armagnac region, a property that has been in his family for over 7 centuries. To expand his passion in the wine world, he acquired in 1991 a tiny 2 hectare estate in Pomerol, called Chateau Belle Brise. Chateau Belle Brise has established its reputation without any publicity and is considered to be one of the most famous wines of Bordeaux, a truly well kept secret among true wine lovers and connoisseurs. Henri Bruno never presents his wine to journalists and selles them directly (no negociants and no en primeur) to top restaurants and few selected importers worldwide. Chateau Belle Brise is a close neighbour of Chateau Pétrus in the prestigious Pomerol appelation. e vines (80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc) are over 45 years old. e management in the vinyard is completely traditional and done by hand. Even if the estate does not claim it, the whole vineyard has been managed under organic rules from the very beginning. e vini cation is without the use of neither commercial yeast nor added enzymes. Harvest takes one day and is carried out at optimum maturity. e wine is aged in large French oak barrels with a very careful use of new oak. Wine is bottled without ning or ltering. e distinctive charachteristics of Pomerol appear fully in these wines with unique nose of truffles. Please serve at 17 18 degrees and decant the wine for at least 2 hours. e aging potential is 15 20+ years. e estate produces maximum 800 cases of wine and sells directly to prestigious French and international clients, among these the Elysée Palace, the offices of the French Prime Minister, residence of the Prince of Monaco and famous restaurants such as: Guy Savoy, Pierre Cagnaire, Joel Robuchon, Lucas Carton, Alain Senderens, George Blanc, Alain Ducasse and many other Michelin starred restaurants in 20 countries. We have been lucky to source a very limited quantity of 2004 / 2009 / 2010 Chateau Belle Brise from the owner's private cellar.
Euro 205 / bottle Very limited availability
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2010 Chateau Clinet, Pomerol Chateau Clinet, magni cently located at the heart of Pomerol, was one of the spearheads of the winemaking revolution that took hold of the Bordeaux region in the 1980s and now produces one of the most sought after wines in the region. In the 1990s the owners engaged the services of cult oenologist Michel Rolland who introduced later harvesting and netuned the amount of time the wine spent in new oak. Within ve years, Clinet was being compared to Pétrus, La eur and Le Pin. e 9 hectare vineyard is on top of one the nest plateaux in Pomerol and is planted with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. e average annual production is 55 000 bottles but in 2010 the yields were very low and the production was only 35 000 bottles. Average age of the vines is 40 years. Fermentation takes place in wooden vats for 30 days. Malolactic fermentation takes place in French barriques where the wine also ages for 20 months (70% new oak). In the last few years the quality of Clinet seems to be rising: it is the third successive great vintage after 2008 and 2009. e blend in 2010 was 85% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and a small amount of Cabernet Franc. e wine is exceptionally full bodied, layered, moderately tannic and with impressive power. Loads of melted chocolate and black fruits galore along with some coffee bean, mocha and some oak notes in the background. Robert Parker would give this wine 5 6 years of cellaring and recommend to drink it over the following 30+ years
Robert Parker 96+ points
Euro 284 / bottle Very limited availability
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Mas de Daumas Gassac, Pays d'Hérault IGP, Languedoc
Within 30 years, Mas de Daumas Gassac wines have reached a rare status of cult wines. e terroir was discovered in 1971 by Henri Enjalbert, Professor of Geology at Bordeaux University. He was a good friend of Aimé Guibert who bought a summer house in the Gassac valley in 1972. Henri considered the location to have an ideal and unique terroir to produce a Grand Cru level wine. e estate bene ts from a rare and still unexplained red, powder ne glacial soil, strikingly similar to that in the best parts of Burgundy. Furthermore, the vinyards are kept cool by the nearby Gassac river, sea and moutains. Professor Emile Peynaud, the famous Bordeaux oenologist who has consulted for all the First Growth estates became the mentor and consulting winemaker for Mas de Daumas Gassac. Previously he had been part of the rich history of the greatest domaines, but had never witnessed a birth of the Grand Cru wine and for this reason he agreed to work with the Guibert family. Despite the fact that Mas de Daumas Gassac wines are only classi ed as Pays d'Hérault IGP (thanks to not allowed grape variaties), many experts and critics have named Mas de Daumas Gassac the unofficial Grand Cru of the South of France. Both wines have an amazing ability to age and keep an outstanding youth after even 25 years. In fact, a special polyphenol has been found in Gassac that keeps the red wine vibrant and youthful for a long time. Aimé can be also seen in a very good wine documentary that tackles the impact of globalization on the world's different wine regions, where he tries push off wine giant Robert Mondavi from expanding into South of France.
2011 Mas Daumas Gassac Rouge Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge is made from 80% Cabernet Sauvignon blended with 20% Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Tannat, Nebbiolo and Dolcetto. e wine is aged in oak for 18 months. When young, the wine reminds you great Bordeaux wines and when it ages you can see more similarities with mature Burgundy wines. e development of the wine can be divided into the following stages:
Youth: 3 7 years; gives you an idea of the wine, fresh fruitiness and strong tannins Hugh John Maturity: 7 14 years; velvety tannins and complex structure emerges „e only Grand Cru of the Midi (South of France)“ Ideal: 14 21 years; undergrowth and dried roses, truffels and leather become dominant Gault & Millau Dream: 21+ years; real treasure for grandchildren „A La te in Languedoc“ Michael Broadbent Euro 49 / bottle „One of the 10 best wines in the world“ Robert Parker
2012 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc „Exceptional“
Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc is made from Viognier, Chardonnay, Petit Manseng and Chenin Blanc, all around 20%. e remaining 20% are made up of 15 different variaties: Courbu, Petite Arvice, Rhole, Marsanne etc. e wine is aged for 6 months in stainless steel and receives no oak treatment. However, also the white wine has huge aging potential: First life: 1 3 years; enourmously fresh, soft and fruity Second life: 3 15 years; elegant oxidation emerges with age, can remind you sherry or old Sauternes Euro 49 / bottle
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2011 Les Fontanilles, Minervois AC, Languedoc, Domaine Anne Gros & Jean-Paul Tollot
Anne Gros of the eponymoys Vosne Romanee domaine and her husband Jean Paul Tollot (of Domaine Tollot Beaut in Burgundy) have combined their expertise to serve the ne terroirs in Cazelles, in the northern edge of Minvervois region in Languedoc. As they both are involved with their family estates in Cote d'Or, they also wanted to make some wine together and nally they settled down in a small town of Cazelles (with a total population of just 30 people). eir rst vintage was 2008. For wine lovers, this domaine offers a unique opportunity to rediscover the wines of the Languedoc through the eyes of great Burgundian winemakers. What makes their wines so unique and interesting, is not only their expertise as winemakers, but their extreme sensitivity to the terroir in Minervois. Currently they own around 14 hectares of vineyards where they grow Cinsaut, Grenache, Carignan and Syrah. Anne loves Cinsaut and compares its elegance with Pinot Noir. ey also have some very old over 100 year old Carignan plants. Given this couple's background and well known talents, it comes as no surprise to learn that they are rendering wines unlike any others in Minervois, or indeed anywhere else in the Languedoc. eir aim is to showcase each of their principle grape varieties very much including unjustly slighted Cinsault and Carignan. e altitude of the vineyards is the same as in Vosne Romanee, around 220 meters from sea level. e harvesting is only done by hand. e yields are kept low, at 35 hectolitres per hectare. Les Fontanilles plot is 3 hectares, surrounded by pine trees, thyme and rosemary. e wine is composed of 25% each grape variaty: Cinsaut, Grenache, Syrah and very old Carignan. Only Syrah and Carignan are aged in old oak barrels. e vines are 22 50 years old. Les Fontanilles is cuvee that combines freshness and maturity and offers a bouquet of red and black fruits and peppery spices. ere is a good fresh tannin and elegant lift to the nish. Very harmonious and rounded. Very difficult to nd a similar quality wine from Minervois.
Euro 28,70 / bottle Very limited availability Available in June
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2011 Chambolle Musigny 'La Combe d'Orveau', Domaine Anne Gros
Anne took over the family domaine in Vosne Romanée in 1988 at an early age of 25. Today this tiny estate with only 2500 cases is an absolute classic in Burgundy. Anne produces her wines with extreme personal attention to detail and it is no surprise that her wines are highly sought after all over the world. e domaine consists of only 6.5 hectares and even though the estate is not classi ed as biodynamic or organic, they practice these techniques. All the grapes are handpicked, carefully sorted and destemmed. She uses only natural yeasts and minimal ltration. e red wines are vini ed in cement tanks and fermentation lasts 12 15 days. Aging occurs usually for 16 months and quite a large percent of new oak is used: 80% for grand crus, 50% for village wine and 30% for regional wines. Her one hectare parcel of La Combe d'Orveau is located in the village appelation of Chambolle Musigny, right against the border of Echézeaux and regulary outperform this relatively humble classi cation. It is interesing because Chambolle Musigny Combe d'Orveau is actually a Premier Cru site but historically one small part of it has remained as a village appelation. However, for this reason the wines from the village appelation of Combe are usually better priced. Many even believe that because of its location (between Grand Cru sites) this vineyard would deserve to have Grand Cru status. Anne has produced red wines in 2011 that are of the highest quality. is cuvee of Chambolle is often the easiest to approach thanks to its lower acidity. e tannins are always balanced and it is a delicate and elegant wine with notes of red fruit (raspberry and red current) as well as oral rose nuances. Anne recommends to drink it fairly young (between 2 10 years) to take full advantage of its elegant texture.
Euro 97,10 / bottle Very limited availability Available in June
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Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux, Vosne-Romanée e name Arnoux has been in Vosne Romanée since the mid 19th century. Today the 5th generation controls the 14 hectare domaine (until 2007 Domaine Robert Arnoux) that is regarded as one of Vosne Romanée's leading estates. Allen Meadows, founder of Burghound and most followed Burgundy expert, has called Arnoux Lachaux a benchmark producer of Vosne Romanée. e estate style are wines that are built to last but are also accessible in their youth. ere is quite a bit of new oak and this can mean that the wines need to be given time to fully integrate and knit together in bottle before displaying their full potential. e wines are very clean and display rich black fruits and creamy textures. e vines have an average age of 60 years which is quite exceptional. Yields are very low and for Premier Cru wines only 6 bunches per vine are kept. Only organic and biodynamic techniques are used in the vineyards. e grapes are 100% destemmed. e maceration and the fermentation lasts 15 22 days. Only natural yeasts are used and Premiers Cru wines are aged in French oak for 16 months (50% new oak). ere is no ning or ltration.
2011 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru 'Les Chaumes' Highly spiced nose of both red and black pinot fruit with hints of earth and sandalwood. Very generous and rich avours are blessed with an abudance of dry extract that impart a seductive texture to the lush and balance nish. is is a rst rate Chaumes with very few similar quality peers. Try from 2018 onwards. Allen Meadows 90 93 points
Euro 167,90 / bottle Very limited availability Available in June
2011 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru 'Les Proces' A pungently earthy nose of red currants, wild dark berries and spices. Medium bodied palate that is supported by rm but not hard tannins. ere is very good power and excellent lenght that would require up to a decade to resolve it. Allen Meadows 89 92 points
Euro 116 / bottle Very limited availability Available in June
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Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron, Premeaux-Prissey e history of this estate dates back to 1926. Currently the winery is run by Sophie Meunier Confuron together with her husband Alain Meunier. ey own 8.5 hectares of vineyards in 12 different Cote de Nuits appelations. Since 1990 all the work in the vineyards is organic and in some grand cru vineyards a horse is used instead of tractors to achieve better results. e overall style of Confuron wines is very fruity and silky, never too powerful nor jammy. e wines are always easy to drink, elegant and with soft tannins. Masceration lasts 4 6 days and fermentation takes place 14 days. Grand cru wines age in 80% new oak for 15 18 months. ere is no ning or ltration. In 2011, all the grapes were destemmed. Depending on the vintage, whole bunches are sometimes also used. Meil on vaid üksikud pudelid mõisa mõlema grand cru aia veine.
Andrew Jefford (Decanter) „Elegant, expressive fruit, hedonistic rather than intellectual, with ne drinking balance.“
Cli Coates „e quality of the wines is classy, poised and very ne. Alan Meunier's wine deserves greater recognition. “
2011 Romenée Saint Vivant Grand Cru Without a doubt the best and most famous wine from this estate. Vineyard holding is 0.5 hectares and the average age of the vines is 60 years. ese old vines yield no more than 30 hectolitres per hectare and therefore the annual production is 2300 bottles. On the nose cacao powder, coffee, pepper and roses. e palate is very concentrated with notes of roasted coffee and an attack of red fruits. It is recommended to drink it over the next 5 12 years but it will keep easily 15+ years. Euro 395 / bottle Very limited availability Available in June
2011 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru Clos Vougeot site is also 0.5 hectares and the average age of the vines is 50 years. e yield is 30 hectolitres per hectare and annual production also 2300 bottles. Very clean and old school Pinot Noir. On the palate you can feel raspberries, wild berries and soft tannins. Powerful structure but good balance between acidity and gentle sweetness from the oak. It is recommended to drink it over the next 4 10 years but will keep easily 15+ years. Euro 184 / bottle Very limited availability Available in June
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2006 Gevrey Chambertin 'En Champs', Domaine Geantet-Pansiot
e history of this estate dates back to 1954 when Edmond Geantet married Bernadette Pansiot. In 1977 their son Vincent joined the business and today, Geantet Pansiot is run by Vincent and his children. In total, they own 13 hectares of vineyards and the estate is based in Gevrey Chambertin which is considered to be one of the best Cote de Nuits locations. is area boosts 9 grand cru sites. Vincent does not press the grapes. He believes that intracellular maceration is a way to preserve the variatel aromas and in this way the wine does not get overextracted. Natural fermentation extracts a lot of elements by itself. Geantet Pansiot owns 0.45 hectares of the En Champs vineyard and vines are extremely old – 110 years. e wine is aged in oak for 14 months (30% new oak). e wine is bottled without ning or ltration. is wine like Gevrey Chambertin in general, is more powerful than neighbouring Vosne Romanée and Chambolle Musigny. e arome has nice blackberries, liquorice and musk. As this wine is already 7 years old you can feel some truffle and leather notes. e palate has good balance and strong tannins have become smooth and velvety. It is recommended to drink this wine now – 2020. Jancis Robinson 17.5+ points Euro 61 / bottle Very limited availability Available in June
Balen – Connoisseur T +372 6000 950 Läike tee põik 1, Rae vald 75312 Harjumaa www.balen.ee [email protected]