Balen Newsletter – May / June 2013 1
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Balen newsletter – May / June 2013 1 We are very happy to introduce our rst and rather extensive newsletter where we present our new producers and also new wines from already familiar estates in our portfolio. In most cases these are very littleknown and relatively undervalued tiny producers that are highly soughtafter by wine lovers and connoisseurs all over the world. On this page you can nd a geographical overview of the wineries that are described in detail on the below pages. Firstly we will cover the enormously diverse wine scene in Italy (p. 211), then we will briey jump to the refreshing NewZealand (p. 1213) and Germany (p.14) and nally nnish with good old France (p. 1522). Happy discoveries! Kellerei Terlan Alto Adige Cantina Parocco – ienda San Michele Friuli Livio Felluga Cantina P duttori Nebbiolo di Carema Piedmonte Kumeu River Tenuta Degli Dei Toscana Tenuta dell'Ornellaia CCaampmpaanniaia Montevetrano Basilicata Nanni Copé Elena Fucci Argi Egon Müller Domaine JeanJacques Confuron Domaine ArnouxLachaux Domaine GeantetPansiot Domaine Anne Gros Chateau Belle Brise Chateau Clinet Mas de Daumas Gassac Domaine Anne Gros & JeanPaul Tollot Balen – Connoisseur T +372 6000 950 Läike tee põik 1, Rae vald 75312 Harjumaa www.balen.ee [email protected] Balen newsletter – May / June 2013 2 2011 Sabbie di Sopra il Bosco, Terre del Volturno IGT, Campania, Nanni Copé In 2009 Giovanni Ascione discovered a 2 hectae vineyard near his hometown of Caserta. Vigna Sopra il Bosco vineyard is located in Campania, near the city of Caserta in Castel Campagnano province, just north of Naples and about 30 km from the sea. Nanni Copé was Giovanni's nickname when he was a child. It is a beautiful, unpolluted area with vineyards alternating with woods and highly draining sandy and clay soils. e vineyard is on a 1325% slope and 220 meters above the sea level. Soil is very poor with Caiazzo sandstones (6 million years old). e Taburno and Matese mountain massifs are nearby and the middle course of Volturno river ows by. e vines are on average 30 years old. e main grape is Pallagrello Nero – a late variaty with thick skin and ultrane silky tannins. ere is also some Aglianico (giving the wine structure and acidity) and a very small share of 130 year old ungrafted Casavecchia. Sabbie di Sopra is made of 90% Pallagrello Nero, 5% Aglianico and 5% Casavecchia. e plants are registred one by one and the vinyard is divided into 4 sectors subject to different pruning, foliage management, surface management and harvesting approaches. e whole agronomic philosophy is aimed at minimizing intervetions. e use of herbicides or pesticides is utterly excluded. Harvesting is performed row by row, sometimes plant by plant based only on the desired maturation level over 2 week time period even though the vinyard is tiny. Average yield is around 25 hl/ha. ere is no distinguishing between variaties and they are pressed together, only factor is the maturation level of the grapes. Fermentation and masceration takes place is small steel vats at 26 degrees and maceration lasts for 1619 days. Malolactic fermentation is in 500 litre French tonneaux, where the wine is also later aged for 12 months (25% new wood, 25% one year old, 25% two year old, 25% three year old). Bottle aging later for 8 months. e yields in 2011 were lower than normal and only 6100 bottles were produced. e taste is very surprising. As opposed to international grape variaties, the indigenous variaties in the south of Italy have a very good way of keeping good acidity, even in the very hot climate. In addition, due to the unique location of the vinyard, this wine has relatively low pH (3.63) and alcohol level (13.2%). For this reason you initially feel freshness and good fruity acidity. is wine is enjoyable young but keeps very well for the next 1015 years. Gambero Rosso 3/3 glasses (2010 vintage) Euro 46,40 / bottle Very limited availability llagrello Nero DNA analysis shows close genetic relationship with Casavecchia. Very low yields and extremely rich in anthocyanins (the higher the level the better tannin retention and aging potential). Has been found only in the Caserta area and there are in total only around 25 hectares in the world. Casa cchia Ancient darkskinned variaty exclusive to Caserta area in Campania. First found in 19th century in Caserta. DNA shows no concrete relationship with other variaties, remotely to Pallagrello Nero. Just a few hectares have still survived in the Caserta area (100+ years old). Balen – Connoisseur T +372 6000 950 Läike tee põik 1, Rae vald 75312 Harjumaa www.balen.ee [email protected] Balen newsletter – May / June 2013 3 Montevetrano, Colli di Salerno IGT, Campania 2007 / 2008 / 2010 Silvia Imparato's Montevetrano estate is a boutique winery located also in Campania, south of Napels, in San Cipriano Picentino, around 100 meters above sea level. Montevetrano is a Colli di Salerno IGT red wine made from 60% Cabernet Sauvignon 30% Merlot and 10% Aglianico Taurasi. First vintage was produced only in 1993 and the wine has now achieved an almost cult status. Annual production is only around 30 000 bottles. e wine is often described as Sassicaia of southern Italy due to is elegance and longetivity. e Monteventrano vineyard is 5 hectares with southwest exposre and hilly landscape. Average age of the vines is 12 years. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel for 20 days and there is quite long skin maceration of 20 days. Full malolactic fermentation is performed. Monteventrano is aged 1014 months in new 225 litre French barriques and 6 months in the bottle before release. e wine benets from its coastal location and mild climate (the vineyard is protected by the Picentini Mountain peaks). e wine usually has scents of woodland with hints of violet, blackberry and cherry. Spiced tones drawing on liquorice, myrtle, cinnamon, chocolate, mint and tobacco also appear. With age Monteventrano turns from huge concentration into elegance and has very long aging potential (15+ years). Montevetrano has achieved huge cricial acclaim from international and Italian wine guides alike. Last ten vintages have all received maximum 3 glasses from Gambero Rosso, 5 grappoli from Duemilavini and always over 92 points from the Wine Advocate. Montevetrano is regulary included in the Top 100 red wines of Italy 9th in 2013 (vintage 2010) and 12th in 2011 (vintage 2008). We have a small selection of 3 vintages of Montevetrano: 2010 Gambero Rosso (3/3 glasses) L'Espresso (17/20) Duemilavini (5/5 grappoli) Wine Advocate (96/100) Euro 75 / bottle Very limited availability 2008 Gambero Rosso (3+/3 glasses) L'Espresso (18e/20) Duemilavini (5/5 grappoli) Wine Advocate (94+/100) Euro 75 / bottle Very limited availability 2007 Gambero Rosso (3+/3 glasses) L'Espresso (18e/20) Duemilavini (5/5 grappoli) Wine Advocate (95/100) Euro 83 / bottle Very limited availability 2011 Core di Montevetrano, Campania IGT, Montevetrano With the 2011 vintages comes a new wine from Montevetrano called Core (in local dialect it means 'heart'). Core is 100% Aglianico that is sourced from a particular Aglianico plot on the estate and also from growers in Benevento area who work closely with Montevetrano winemarker Riccardo Cotarella who is one of the most wellregarded winemakers in Italy. e vineyards have mostly clay composition with south eastern exposure and are located 400 meters above sea level. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in stainless steel for 15 days. Length of maceration is 8 days. Core is aged in new 225 litre French barriques for 10 months and 4 bottles in the bottle before release. Annual production is only 15 000 bottles. is deep ruby red wines displays aromas of red fruits and spices with undertones of licorice, earth and leather. Excellent pairing with roasted lamb, grilled tenderloin and ripe cheeses. Very good introduction to Monteventrano's house style. Euro 24,10 / bottle Balen – Connoisseur T +372 6000 950 Läike tee põik 1, Rae vald 75312 Harjumaa www.balen.ee [email protected] Balen newsletter – May / June 2013 4 2010 Titolo, Aglianico del Vulture DOC, Basilicata, Elena Fucci In less than a decade and producing just one wine from her family's vinyard on Monte Vulture, Elena Fucci has created a new classic in Italian winemaking. e wine is called Titolo (100% Aglianico), named after the local volcanic territory. Monte Vulture, a 1326 metre high extinct volcano in northern Basilicata, lends its name to Basilicata’s most signicant wine - Aglianico del Vulture. Aglianico has somewhat of a mythical reputation and, as one of Italy’s noble red grapes, is said by many to be the ‘Barolo of the south’. On the steep slopes of Monte Vulture the vines benet from the intense sunlight of the south and, at these altitudes, the dramatic day and night temperature differences that promote freshness and acidity. e climate is relatively cool and Elena promotes a very late harvest (last week of October) in order to allow the tannins, and especially in the grape pips, time to ripen properly. Elena has in total 6 hectares of vineyards, out of which 3.5 hectares are over 65 year old bush vines. ey are located on sloped terraces around 650 meters above sea level on volcanic lava and ash soil. She produces maximum 18 000 bottles a year, which means each hectare produces around 30 tonnes when as much as 115 tonnes could be produced using other farming techniques. e grapes are handpicked, destemmed, crushed and then fermented in steel at 28 degrees. Malolactic fermentation takes place in 100% new French oak barriques where the wine also matures for 12 months.