MARCH 2013 Less Than Three Miles from the Sonoma Coastline, the View from Hirsch Vineyard’S Block 16 Overlooks Redwoods and the Pacific Ocean
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BUYING GUIDE MARCH 2013 Less than three miles from the Sonoma coastline, the view from Hirsch Vineyard’s Block 16 overlooks redwoods and the Pacific Ocean. 55 BEAUJOLAIS 2 CALIFORNIA 59 BORDEAUX 25 OREGON 62 SOUTHWEST FRANCE 33 VIRGINIA 66 AUSTRIA 36 CHILE 69 SPIRITS 43 SOUTHERN ITALY 71 BEER 46 SICILY FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT 55 SARDINIA BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM PHOTO © MARIE HIRSCH WineMag.com |1 CALIFORNIA ASSESSING THE LATEST CROP OF CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR s the 2010 Pinot Noirs from California continue to be released, it’s ley, among others. important to remember that the 2010 vintage presented some real Quality is consistent with price in 2010: You pretty much get what you A challenges. To start, the spring was wet and cold. Then summer was pay for. The best wines are pricey, although one thing you can say about dry and cool, leading to a late harvest. Despite some heat waves around La- California Pinot Noir is that it hasn’t yet been subject to the crazy price bor Day and in late September, the season overall was cooler than 2009, inflation that California Cabernet Sauvignon has experienced. I awarded which itself continued a multiyear trend of mild weather. a handful of Best Buys to Pinot Noirs in 2010, but for true relative value, Because of the season’s chilliness and autumn rains, some 2010 Pinot choose from among the more plentiful Editors’ Choices, including Cam- Noirs suffered from various forms of rot. But at wineries with good sorting bria’s Julia’s Vineyard, Gallo Signature Series, Joseph Swan’s Cuvée de regimens, the wines ended up with long-hangtime concentration and lus- Trois, Melville’s Verna’s Estate and Reata. ciousness, at moderate alcohol levels. Elsewhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, you’ll find more domestic re- Generally, all the major coastal regions fared well, with the Russian views from Oregon and Virginia, as well as selections from Austria, Chile, River Valley dominating in raw numbers due to its concentration of winer- France and Italy. And, as always, be sure to check out buyingguide. ies. Some of the usual top performers produced exceptional wines: Cam- winemag.com to access our complete Buying Guide database of over bria, Failla, Flowers, Foxen, Lynmar, Merry Edwards, Rochioli and Tal- 125,000 reviews. —STEVE HEIMOFF PINOT NOIR Merry Edwards 2010 Olivet Lane Pinot Sheldon 2010 Roma’s Vineyard Pinot 95 Noir (Russian River Valley). The pedi- 94 Noir (Anderson Valley). An ebullient, gor- Williams Selyem 2010 Hirsch Vineyard gree of this rich Pinot Noir is evident right away in the geous example of cool-climate Pinot Noir from an 99 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review mouthfeel, offering a silky and satiny texture, bright- 1,800-feet elevation vineyard at the north end of the see page 3. Cellar Selection. ened with citrusy acidity. The flavors immediately kick Anderson Valley. Sheldon’s Roma is classic in its layers abv: 14.3% Price: $75 in with a solid wall of red cherries, licorice, persimmons, of nuanced cherry, raspberry, spice and acidity. Focused pomegranates and cola. An exciting, complex wine to and intensely delicious. —V.B. Williams Selyem 2010 Precious Moun- drink now, and it should gather momentum over six abv: 13.4% Price: $45 98 tain Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). years, maybe even longer. —S.H. For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.2% Price: $62 Talley 2010 Rincon Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 14.2% Price: $94 94 (Arroyo Grande Valley). This shows how a Williams Selyem 2010 Bucher Vineyard wine can be both immediately delicious and drinkable, Talley 2010 Rosemary’s Vineyard Pinot 95 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full yet possess that extra stuffing to make it complex and 96 Noir (Arroyo Grande Valley). Exceptionally review see page 4. ageable. It offers generous raspberry, cherry, chocolate, delicious to drink now, this is rich, vibrant and complex. abv: 13.7% Price: $58 vanilla and spice flavors, balanced with gorgeous acidity It offers wave after wave of raspberry and cherry pie and a hint of dusty tannins. Drink now–2018. —S.H. filling, rose tea, mineral and smoky sandalwood flavors, Williams Selyem 2010 Williams Selyem abv: 14.6% Price: $58 which are all wrapped into an incredibly fine texture of 95 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian Riv- complex tannins and vibrant acids. The finish is dry and er Valley). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selec- Williams Selyem 2010 Allen Vineyard Pi- graceful. It’s tough to keep your hands off of this wine, tion. 94 not Noir (Russian River Valley). For full re- but it should hold in the bottle for 6–8 years, gradually abv: 13.9% Price: $100 view see page 5. Cellar Selection. losing fruit and gaining earthy, mushroomy complexi- abv: 14.1% Price: $82 ties. —S.H. Paul Hobbs 2010 Katherine Lindsay Es- abv: NA Price: $70 94 tate Cuvee Agustina Pinot Noir (Russian Williams Selyem 2010 Ferrington Vine- River Valley). An ultrarich Pinot Noir, this is dense 94 yard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full Williams Selyem 2010 Rochioli River- and full bodied, with flavors of cherry pie, chocolate, review see page 5. 96 block Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River cherry liqueur, graham cracker, spice and sandalwood. abv: 14.2% Price: $65 Valley). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. Most notable is its weight and the way the wine takes abv: 14.1% Price: $78 over the palate and lasts through the impressively long Gary Farrell 2009 Rochioli Vineyard Pinot finish. Fine now with rich fare, like lamb and steak, and 93 Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review Merry Edwards 2010 Coopersmith Pinot it should also develop in the bottle for 6–8 years. —S.H. see page 5. Cellar Selection. 95 Noir (Russian River Valley). This shows abv: 14.6% Price: $100 abv: 14% Price: $65 Merry Edwards’ signature of exceptional deliciousness and drinkability, coupled with seemingly neverending Pessagno 2010 Four Boys Vineyard Pi- Merry Edwards 2010 Georganne Pinot depth. Made using fruit sourced from the winery’s vine- 94 not Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). The 93 Noir (Russian River Valley). Shows a certain yard in the cooler southwestern part of the valley, near Four Boys bottling has been particularly successful for aggressiveness, offering up vibrant raspberry and cherry Sebastopol, this is rich in acids and soft tannins, but the Steve Pessagno, and this big, voluptuous 2010 is his fruit, cola, mocha and oak flavors, but kept aloof by its flavors set it apart. Notes of raspberry, cherry, cola, tea, best since 2006. Dry and full bodied, it has rich flavors acidity and tannins. It’s certainly elegant and pedigreed, licorice, pepper and sandalwood abound and evolve of red and dark berries, currants, Dr. Pepper and cin- but it need 3–4 years in the cellar. —S.H. with every sip. Drink now–2018. —S.H. namon, with hints of dark chocolate and red licorice. abv: 14.4% Price: $57 abv: 14.1% Price: $60 It’s quite tannic, and obviously needs to age. Best after 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $55 Continued on Page 14 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new- release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Cayuse 2009 En Chamberlin Vineyard Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman 99 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). In a vintage that Williams Selyem 2010 Allen Vineyard in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, produced the finest overall lineup of Cayuse wines to 97 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor date, it may seem a little nit-picky to score some higher wine shows real first-growth quality in its intensity and Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa and some lower. But the En Chamberlin deserves first concentration, with orange nectar, golden mango, pear, Rosa. place again. Brilliant aromatics of smoked meat, bacon peach pie, buttercream, vanilla, buttered toast and spice If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s fat and otherworldly roasted accents seduce instantly. flavors. The balance is exquisite, and the way the acids initials appear following the note. When no initials appear Once on the palate, the silky, balanced, near-perfect mix dance along the palate make the wine clean and lively. following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect of umami and fruit, plus licorice, cassis, coffee liqueur Editors’ Choice. —S.H. the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits and black tea notes suggest it’s as decadent as it is deli- abv: 14.6% Price: $50 Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by cious. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Lauren Buzzeo. abv: 14.9% Price: $75 Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted.