BUYING GUIDE MARCH 2013 Less than three miles from the Sonoma coastline, the view from Hirsch Vineyard’s Block 16 overlooks redwoods and the Pacific Ocean.

55 BEAUJOLAIS 2 CALIFORNIA 59 BORDEAUX 25 OREGON 62 SOUTHWEST FRANCE 33 VIRGINIA 66 AUSTRIA 36 CHILE 69 SPIRITS 43 SOUTHERN ITALY 71 BEER

46 SICILY FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT 55 SARDINIA BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM PHOTO © MARIE HIRSCH

WineMag.com |1 CALIFORNIA ASSESSING THE LATEST CROP OF CALIFORNIA

s the 2010 Pinot Noirs from California continue to be released, it’s ley, among others. important to remember that the 2010 presented some real Quality is consistent with price in 2010: You pretty much get what you A challenges. To start, the spring was wet and cold. Then summer was pay for. The best wines are pricey, although one thing you can say about dry and cool, leading to a late . Despite some heat waves around La- California Pinot Noir is that it hasn’t yet been subject to the crazy price bor Day and in late September, the season overall was cooler than 2009, inflation that California Cabernet Sauvignon has experienced. I awarded which itself continued a multiyear trend of mild weather. a handful of Best Buys to Pinot Noirs in 2010, but for true relative value, Because of the season’s chilliness and autumn rains, some 2010 Pinot choose from among the more plentiful Editors’ Choices, including Cam- Noirs suffered from various forms of rot. But at wineries with good sorting bria’s Julia’s Vineyard, Gallo Signature Series, Joseph Swan’s Cuvée de regimens, the wines ended up with long-hangtime concentration and lus- Trois, Melville’s Verna’s Estate and Reata. ciousness, at moderate alcohol levels. Elsewhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, you’ll find more domestic re- Generally, all the major coastal regions fared well, with the Russian views from Oregon and Virginia, as well as selections from Austria, Chile, River Valley dominating in raw numbers due to its concentration of winer- France and Italy. And, as always, be sure to check out buyingguide. ies. Some of the usual top performers produced exceptional wines: Cam- winemag.com to access our complete Buying Guide database of over bria, Failla, Flowers, Foxen, Lynmar, Merry Edwards, Rochioli and Tal- 125,000 reviews. —Steve Heimoff

PINOT NOIR Merry Edwards 2010 Olivet Lane Pinot Sheldon 2010 Roma’s Vineyard Pinot 95 Noir (Russian River Valley). The pedi- 94 Noir (Anderson Valley). An ebullient, gor- Williams Selyem 2010 Hirsch Vineyard gree of this rich Pinot Noir is evident right away in the geous example of cool-climate Pinot Noir from an 99 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review mouthfeel, offering a silky and satiny texture, bright- 1,800-feet elevation vineyard at the north end of the see page 3. Cellar Selection. ened with citrusy acidity. The flavors immediately kick Anderson Valley. Sheldon’s Roma is classic in its layers abv: 14.3% Price: $75 in with a solid wall of red cherries, licorice, persimmons, of nuanced cherry, raspberry, spice and acidity. Focused pomegranates and cola. An exciting, complex wine to and intensely delicious. —V.B. Williams Selyem 2010 Precious Moun- now, and it should gather momentum over six abv: 13.4% Price: $45 98 tain Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). years, maybe even longer. —S.H. For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.2% Price: $62 Talley 2010 Rincon Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 14.2% Price: $94 94 (Arroyo Grande Valley). This shows how a Williams Selyem 2010 Bucher Vineyard wine can be both immediately delicious and drinkable, Talley 2010 Rosemary’s Vineyard Pinot 95 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full yet possess that extra stuffing to make it complex and 96 Noir (Arroyo Grande Valley). Exceptionally review see page 4. ageable. It offers generous raspberry, cherry, chocolate, delicious to drink now, this is rich, vibrant and complex. abv: 13.7% Price: $58 vanilla and spice flavors, balanced with gorgeous acidity It offers wave after wave of raspberry and cherry pie and a hint of dusty tannins. Drink now–2018. —S.H. filling, rose tea, mineral and smoky sandalwood flavors, Williams Selyem 2010 Williams Selyem abv: 14.6% Price: $58 which are all wrapped into an incredibly fine texture of 95 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian Riv- complex tannins and vibrant acids. The finish is dry and er Valley). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selec- Williams Selyem 2010 Allen Vineyard Pi- graceful. It’s tough to keep your hands off of this wine, tion. 94 not Noir (Russian River Valley). For full re- but it should hold in the bottle for 6–8 years, gradually abv: 13.9% Price: $100 view see page 5. Cellar Selection. losing fruit and gaining earthy, mushroomy complexi- abv: 14.1% Price: $82 ties. —S.H. Paul Hobbs 2010 Katherine Lindsay Es- abv: NA Price: $70 94 tate Cuvee Agustina Pinot Noir (Russian Williams Selyem 2010 Ferrington Vine- River Valley). An ultrarich Pinot Noir, this is dense 94 yard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full Williams Selyem 2010 Rochioli River- and full bodied, with flavors of cherry pie, chocolate, review see page 5. 96 block Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River cherry liqueur, graham cracker, spice and sandalwood. abv: 14.2% Price: $65 Valley). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. Most notable is its weight and the way the wine takes abv: 14.1% Price: $78 over the palate and lasts through the impressively long Gary Farrell 2009 Rochioli Vineyard Pinot finish. Fine now with rich fare, like lamb and steak, and 93 Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review Merry Edwards 2010 Coopersmith Pinot it should also develop in the bottle for 6–8 years. —S.H. see page 5. Cellar Selection. 95 Noir (Russian River Valley). This shows abv: 14.6% Price: $100 abv: 14% Price: $65 Merry Edwards’ signature of exceptional deliciousness and drinkability, coupled with seemingly neverending Pessagno 2010 Four Boys Vineyard Pi- Merry Edwards 2010 Georganne Pinot depth. Made using fruit sourced from the winery’s vine- 94 not Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). The 93 Noir (Russian River Valley). Shows a certain yard in the cooler southwestern part of the valley, near Four Boys bottling has been particularly successful for aggressiveness, offering up vibrant raspberry and cherry Sebastopol, this is rich in acids and soft tannins, but the Steve Pessagno, and this big, voluptuous 2010 is his fruit, cola, mocha and flavors, but kept aloof by its flavors set it apart. Notes of raspberry, cherry, cola, tea, best since 2006. Dry and full bodied, it has rich flavors acidity and tannins. It’s certainly elegant and pedigreed, licorice, pepper and sandalwood abound and evolve of red and dark berries, currants, Dr. Pepper and cin- but it need 3–4 years in the cellar. —S.H. with every sip. Drink now–2018. —S.H. namon, with hints of dark chocolate and red licorice. abv: 14.4% Price: $57 abv: 14.1% Price: $60 It’s quite tannic, and obviously needs to age. Best after 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $55 Continued on Page 14

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new- release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Cayuse 2009 En Chamberlin Vineyard Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman 99 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). In a vintage that Williams Selyem 2010 Allen Vineyard in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, produced the finest overall lineup of Cayuse wines to 97 (Russian River Valley). This Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor date, it may seem a little nit-picky to score some higher wine shows real first-growth quality in its intensity and Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa and some lower. But the En Chamberlin deserves first concentration, with orange nectar, golden mango, pear, Rosa. place again. Brilliant aromatics of smoked meat, bacon peach pie, buttercream, vanilla, buttered toast and spice If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s fat and otherworldly roasted accents seduce instantly. flavors. The balance is exquisite, and the way the acids initials appear following the note. When no initials appear Once on the palate, the silky, balanced, near-perfect mix dance along the palate make the wine clean and lively. following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect of umami and fruit, plus licorice, cassis, coffee liqueur Editors’ Choice. —S.H. the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits and black tea notes suggest it’s as decadent as it is deli- abv: 14.6% Price: $50 Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by cious. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Lauren Buzzeo. abv: 14.9% Price: $75 Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Dolce 2007 Late Harvest Wine (Napa Val- Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying ley). Another spectacular Dolce, which contin- tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Williams Selyem 2010 Hirsch Vineyard 96 ues the brand’s string of successes and further empha- Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This express- 99 sizes its standing as one of California’s greatest ­white Superb 94–97: A great achievement. es the greatness of its vintage and vineyard, offering Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. wines. It lacks a touch of the concentration wave after wave of raspberry and cherry pie flavors, plus Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. found in the 2006, but it dazzles nonetheless with intri- Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; notes of red currant, sweet licorice, spicy Dr. Pepper cate, sweet flavors of honey, butterscotch, golden-apri- often good value. and smoky sandalwood. There’s also something exoti- Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- cot nectar, orange marmalade, tart, vanilla cally briary and wild that intrigues. Even more remark- critical circumstances. and buttered toast. And all that is brightened by crisp able is the texture, an amalgam of acids and tannins that Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 acidity. Terrific to drink now, and it will hold in a proper points) are not reviewed. rivals any Pinot Noir ever produced in California. It cellar for a decade. The blend is 82% Sémillon and 18% should age for up to 20 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS . —S.H. Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent abv: 14.3% Price: $75 quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any abv: 13.5% Price: $85/375 ml price with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag. com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@ Williams Selyem 2010 Precious Moun- wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting Williams Selyem 2010 Drake Estate Vine- products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted 98 tain Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). 96 yard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted In recent years, Precious Mountain Vineyard has pro- will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All Winemaker Bob Cabral’s three 2010 Chardonnays are samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission vided Bob Cabral with some of his most glorious fruit. possibly the greatest he’s ever made. This bottling shows forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. Tremendous in flash and depth, it offers compelling fabulous complexity and sheer deliciousness, offering LABELS flavors of raspberry and cherry, accented by sweet, intricate notes of butterscotch, tropical fruit, pear tart, Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given smoky oak. There’s such complexity in the acid and tan- golden apricot, vanilla cream, buttered toast and exot- the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and nin structure, and in the earthy, stony, spicy nuances, printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on ic spice, with perhaps just a trace of honey. Its brilliant label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax that you find something new to love with every sip. acidity and a tangy minerality provide the balance that 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. This masterpiece is fabulous now, and will develop bot- pushes this wine off the charts. —S.H. Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at tle complexity over the next 15 years, at least. Cellar abv: 14.7% Price: $65 buyingguide.winemag.com Selection.—S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $94

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Williams Selyem 2010 Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). The 96 Turnbull 2009 Estate Grown Black Label Les Belles Collines 2009 Les Sommets acidity really makes this Chardonnay come alive, pro- Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). This best- 94 (Napa Valley). This inaugural release is 88% viding vitality, a quality that’s boosted by an undercur- 95 Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Petit Verdot. The grapes rent of minerals. It’s so rich in tropical fruit, orange, of-barrels blend shows the powerful tannins and dry- come from vineyards in St. Helena and Rutherford. It’s nectarine and pear flavors, and so generously oaked, ness that mark all of Turnbull’s 2009 Cabernets. It’s a huge wine, powerful and concentrated in blackberries, an inky black, dry, powerful wine, with intense flavors of which brings a sweet, satisfying note of buttered toast, black cherry, red and black currant and dark chocolate, that all you want to do is drink it now, preferably with black currants and sweet dark chocolate, with notes of spices on the long, dry finish. Drink it now, with the plus floral and mineral notes. The tannins are strong, steamed lobster and melted . —S.H. but sweet and refined. Showing lots of class, this can abv: 14.6% Price: $50 best beef entrée you can find. It should slowly develop bottle-age characteristics over the next 8–10 years, at a be consumed now, and it will also age for 8–10 years. minimum. —S.H. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $100 abv: 14.4% Price: $87

Williams Selyem 2010 Rochioli River-

96 block Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). While this vineyard is close by the Russian Riv- Williams Selyem 2010 Bucher Vineyard er and is not considered the best of Rochioli’s vineyards, Lineage 2009 Red Wine (Livermore Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For winemaker Bob Cabral consistently makes its grapes 95 Valley). This is a vibrant, lush and layered sheer voluptuous pleasure, this is one of Williams Sel­ 94 into one of Williams Selyem’s most compelling wines. Cabernet­ Sauvignon-dominated blend, with smaller yem’s best 2010s. It just floods the mouth with flavors of This shows the impeccable tannins and acids of Rochioli percentages of Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Caber- raspberry and cherry Pop-Tarts, with the most wonder- fruit, with sweet, ripe, deep flavors of cherry and spice. net Franc. Powerful yet focused, this age-worthy effort ful array of spices and a tender use of oak. Hard to keep Notes of pomegranate, rum punch, dark chocolate and is resplendent in notes of leather, chocolate and dark from drinking it now, but it should age well over the smoky sandalwood add complexity. Beautiful to drink plum, plus a slight trace of licorice. Lay it down for a next 8–10 years. —S.H. now, it should continue to develop for at least 10 years. special occasion many years from now. Cellar Selec- abv: 13.7% Price: $58 Cellar Selection. —S.H. tion. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $78 abv: 14.8% Price: $145

Williams Selyem 2010 Williams Selyem 95 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian Riv- Trefethen 2007 Halo Cabernet Sauvi- er Valley). This shows the extraordinary richness and Louis M. Martini 2009 Lot No. 1 Caber- 95 gnon (Oak Knoll). A bit difficult to approach complexity that the winery’s estate vineyard has exhib- 94 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Martini goes now, this has tight tannins that lock down the wine with ited over its lifetime. It’s vast in cherry, red currant and big with this flashy, splashy, small-production Cabernet. ­astringency. Blended with a little Petit Verdot and Mal- licorice flavors, plus multiple layers of sautéed mush- Made in the modern cult style, it’s soft as velvet, with bec, it slowly reveals massive layers of blackberries, cas- room, exotic baking spice, mineral and sweet, smoky ultrarefined tannins and a brisk hit of acidity for bal- sis liqueur and dark chocolate, remaining stubbornly sandalwood. It’s also very tannic, with a brisk spine of ance, plus flavors of blackberries, black currants and tight throughout. Many people will drink it soon with acidity. Good as it is, it needs time for all the parts to knit dark chocolate. Really pleasurable now, and it should beef, and that’s fine, especially with a good decant, but together. Better after 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. reward up to 10 years in the cellar. —S.H. it should reward even more with 8–10 years in a proper abv: 13.9% Price: $100 abv: 15.2% Price: $145 cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $175

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013

Williams Selyem 2010 Ferrington Vine- Ponzi 2010 Aurora Chardonnay (Willa- 94 yard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Rich Les Belles Collines 2009 White Label 94 mette Valley). A wine of surpassing vitality tannins give this wine a bracing mouthfeel, but it’s still 93 (Napa Valley). Made in the modern style of and complexity, it mixes notes of melon, jicama and drinkable now. While it’s a big wine, the palate feels soft, sweet opulence, this is insanely rich, with notes citrus in a fine-tuned flavor explosion. Long and lively, ­elegant and silky, with spicy flavors of black cherry and of cherry marmalade, red currant, milk chocolate and with bracing minerality, it finishes with a fresh lick of licorice. The 2010s should have one of the longer shelf sweet cedar flavors that continue onto the long, smooth sweet herb. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. lives of recent , holding for at least another finish. It’s a blend of the traditional red Bordeaux variet- abv: 13.2% Price: $60 ­decade. —S.H. ies, and while it was aged in 100% new French oak, it’s abv: 14.2% Price: $65 not too oaky. Drink over the next six years for its youth- ful beauty. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $67

Gary Farrell 2009 Rochioli Vineyard 93 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is Ponzi 2010 Aurora Pinot Noir (Willamette currently very dry and austere due to its tannins, but 94 Valley). The Aurora has just a bit more texture it’s impressive for its noble structure and deep, complex Martin Ray 2009 Synthesis (Napa Valley). and density than its superb companion wine, the Avellana flavors of blackberries, cranberries, brown sugar and 93 Very rich and smooth in texture, like pure vel- Pinot Noir. Black cherry, cola and baking spice notes are spices. ­ With such depth and a long finish, it’s clearly a vet, this Bordeaux-style blend has lots of tannins that accented with touches of iron filings and slivers of dark cellar candidate. Don’t even think about opening it until are soft, ripe and easy. It offers extraordinary waves of chocolate. Thoughtful winemaking is on display here, 2017, at least. Cellar Selection. —S.H. blackberry, black currant, dark chocolate and caramel- creating a dense wine that is nonetheless immediately abv: 14% Price: $65 ized oak flavors. Drink soon for maximum enjoyment. accessible and delicious. Cellar Selection. —P.G. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $100 abv: 14.6% Price: $75

Grgich Hills 2011 Essence Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). After Williams Selyem 2010 Allen Vineyard Pi- 93 years of tinkering with Sauvignon Blanc, Grgich Hills not Noir (Russian River Valley). Somewhat 94 has ­finally produced a truly notable bottling—its best aloof now, this has grippy tannins that lock down the ever. This is lightly oaked, clean and delicious, with tart, Pellet Estate 2010 Pellet Vineyard Caber- palate. Underneath the grip are complex flavors of juicy lemony acids that provide brightness to the green apple, 93 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). An inaugural blackberry, plum sauce and exotic spice, with brooding lemon, lime and pear flavors. The finish is honeyed and release from veteran winemaker Nils Venge, this wine earthy notes and sweet, smoky oak tones. Very fine, but spicy. —S.H. contains small amounts of Merlot and Petit Verdot.

one for the cellar. Give it at least 6–8 years, and it could abv: 14.3% Price: $48 It’s very dry, quite tannic and rich, with flavors of black easily go for another decade beyond that, gradually be- cherries, currants and new oak, with an earthy note that coming more delicate, supple and complex. Cellar Se- adds to the complexity. The mouthfeel is warm and al- lection. —S.H. most Port-like. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $82 abv: 14.7% Price: $85

WineMag.com | 5 Williams Selyem 2010 Coastlands Vine- Williams Selyem 2006 Mistral Vineyard

93 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Brisk 93 Port (Central Coast). Made using classic acidity brightens the ripe raspberry and cherry fruit, Port grape varieties, this is rich and sweet, with choco- Ponzi 2010 Avellana Pinot Noir (Willa- giving it a clean, lively mouthfeel. There’s a jacket of late, coffee, orange, plum and spice flavors. Crisp acid- mette Valley). This was not an easy vintage 93 tannins, but it’s fine and easy, and oak brings just the ity provides needed balance. It shows a complexity that in which to make wine with as much fruit and concen- right touch of sweet toast flavor. Lovely to drink now, lifts it above the ordinary. Drink now–2015. —S.H. tration as this bottling, but winemaker Luisa Ponzi has and it should develop bottle complexities over the next abv: 20% Price: $40/375 ml done it. Deep cherry fruit comes laced with cola and 8–10 years. —S.H. chocolate notes, filling the textural, detailed and full- abv: 13.6% Price: $75 bodied palate. It demonstrates terrific length and an ­elegant, balanced finish.Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $100

Williams Selyem 2010 Flax Vineyard Pi- Boëté 2008 Saunders Vineyard Estate 93 not Noir (Russian River Valley). Rich and 92 Grown Reserve Cabernet Franc (Carmel ripe, this has flavors of raspberries, cherries, cola and Valley). Big, rich and vital, this has a cherry flavor, with red currants, plus layers of exotic spices and toasty herb, mushroom and cola notes that give the wine an sandal­wood that change with every sniff and sip. With earthy complexity. There’s also a lot of oak influence in the form of a sweet buttered-toast note. Give this time Trefethen 2009 Dragon’s Tooth (Napa its silky texture and crisp acidity, it should develop over in a decanter, and serve now with steak or beef-based Valley). This is so smooth, rich and mellow, the next 6–8 years, but it’s also wonderful now. —S.H. 93 Mexican fare. —S.H. you hardly notice how intense the tannins are. But they abv: 14% Price: $60 abv: 14% Price: $40 are hard, and lock down the flavors of black currant and black licorice, plus the complex notes of minerals, roast- ed game and dark spices. Drink this Merlot-based blend now after decanting and over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $75

Williams Selyem 2010 Olivet Lane Vine- 93 yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Soft yet tannic, this has a brooding quality that suggests Feudo Principi di Butera 2008 Deliella it will benefit from some time in the cellar. It shows 92 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). This vintage of De- elaborate flavors of blackberries, plums and cola, with liella represents an enormous jump forward in quality earthy notes of mushrooms and mulch. Good now, af- and intensity. Nero d’Avola vines grow in chalky soils, Williams Selyem 2010 Bacigalupi Vine- ter decanting, and should gradually evolve in the bottle create extremely elegant aromas of dark fruit, choco- yard Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). 93 over the next 6–8 years. —S.H. late, cured meat, toasted pistachio and barbecue spice. Rich, balanced and full bodied, this shows exuberantly­ abv: 14.2% Price: $75 In the mouth, the wine is rich, velvety and long lasting. ripe, sweet flavors of blackberries, mulberries, dark Zonin USA. Cellar Selection. —M.L. chocolate and raisins, with notes of exotic spices. It abv: 14% Price: $90 will last for 20 years, gradually losing fruit and growing earthy and mushroomy. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $50

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 Gary Farrell 2009 Hallberg Vineyard Di- 92 jon Clones Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- ley). This is tight, tannic and distinguished, yet it shows Steven Kent 2009 The Premier Cabernet

a sweet, toasted oak touch, with ripe, tart flavors of red 92 Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). A new ad- cherries, red currants and persimmons, plus accents of dition to Steven Kent’s lineup of exemplary Cabernets, Ponzi 2010 Avellana Chardonnay (Wil- red licorice and cola. Beautiful now with decanting, and this is 100% Cabernet from Ghielmetti Vineyard, one of lamette Valley). The sophistication of Luisa should glide through the next 10 years. —S.H. 92 Kent’s favorite pieces of Livermore ground. The wine is Ponzi’s wines increases from vintage to vintage, espe- abv: 14.1% Price: $60 concentrated and rich, with heady notes of dark cherry, cially at the high end. Here is a Chardonnay for butter and , plus a trace of mint hiding in the lovers, but there is much more to enjoy than just lush background. This will please fans of California and Bor- barrel flavors. Thick and full bodied, it has notes of car- deaux wines. Cellar Selection. —V.B. amel apple, poached pear and passion fruit, sprinkled abv: 14.8% Price: $100 with baking spices. It’s a flavor jamboree. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $60

Lagar de Bezana 2010 Aluvion Gran 92 Reserva Ensamblaje (Cachapoal Valley). Aromas of lead pencil, cassis, violet petal and smoky chocolate are complex and attractive. The palate of this Cabernet Sauvignon-led blend is tight, pure and rich, Boëté 2008 Cheval Rouge Reserve Cab- ernet Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc-Merlot and the flavors of toasty black fruits carry accents of lico- Santa Carolina 2009 VSC (Cachapoal 91 (Carmel Valley). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, rice and coffee. The finish is spicy, with a licorice note, Valley). There’s a lot to like about this dense, 92 Cabernet Franc and Merlot grown in this warm Mon- and the wine’s tannic composition suggests that aging is deep, lush and totally ripe blend of 60% Petit Verdot terey County appellation, this is dry, mellow and com- appropriate. Drink from 2014–2020. Vino Del Sol. Cel- plus smaller doses of Cabernet, Carmenère, Malbec plex, offering waves of stewed blackberries, sweet green lar Selection. —M.S. and Mourvèdre. It glistens in the glass and shows plush herbs, anisette liqueur and smoky sandalwood, with a abv: 14% Price: $29 aromatics and generous flavors of berry, plum, choco- touch of raisins on the finish. —S.H. late and spice. Toasty and smooth on the finish. Drink abv: 14% Price: $30 this excellent blend now–2018. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $40

Planeta 2010 Chardonnay (Sicilia). 92 Creamy, smooth and rich, this gorgeous bot- tling offers flavors of lemon mousse, apricot and vanilla, backed by well-integrated acidity and fruity concentra- Boëté 2005 Saunders Vineyard Estate tion. Palm Bay International. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Sequana 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia abv: 14% Price: $43 91 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Carmel Val- 92 Highlands). Lush and opulent, this shows ley). This single-vineyard Cabernet is softening and complex flavors of cherry compote, raspberry jam, date mellowing, with flavors of cherry, mocha and oak that and exotic spice. Thoroughly dry on the finish, this are picking up sweet, mushroomy, gamy notes. Car- well right now. It offers a delicacy that’s some- mel Valley is a small appellation in a warm part of in- times missing in Santa Lucia Pinot Noirs. From Hess land Monterey County that specializes in Bordeaux red Collection. —S.H. wines. It’s drinking well now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $32 abv: 15% Price: $36

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Cameron Hughes 2010 Lot 360 Caber- 91 net Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). This is Feudo Principi di Butera 2010 Sympo- an impressive young Cabernet: It’s bone dry, tannic and sio (Sicilia). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, 91 Spindrift Cellars 2011 Pinot Gris (Willa- intense, with flavors of mountain blackberries and black Merlot and Petit Verdot, this is plush and round, with mette Valley). Creamy and leesy, with a com- currants. It may even age for a few years. —S.H. bright notes of black fruit, spice, leather and blackberry. 91 plex mix of mineral, fresh herb, citrus rind and pungent abv: 14.4% Price: $26 There’s a touch of spice on the finish, and the texture botanicals, this is an interesting and refreshing style of is soft and rich. Zonin USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. Pinot Gris. Give it a good chill and watch it open as it abv: 14% Price: $20 warms. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $16

J Vineyards & Winery 2003 91 Late Disgorged Brut (Rus- sian River Valley). A little scouring, but delicious and complex, this has ap- Cantina Santadi 2007 Shardana (Valli di pealing flavors of yeast, lemons, limes 91 Porto Pino). An epic red blend from Sardinia, and pears. Dry and yeasty, it feels very this wine boasts huge density and pulpy notes of black- elegant on the palate. —S.H. berry, black olive, licorice, leather and spice. It offers abv: 12.5% Price: $90 silky tannins, with loads of ripe fruit on the finish. Emp- Trefethen 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon son (USA) Ltd. —M.L. 91 (Oak Knoll). Made from the classic Bordeaux abv: 14.5% Price: $30 varieties, this polished, supple wine is pretty tannic, but it’s fine for drinking now. It shows a concentration of blackberry and black currant flavors, with a liqueur- sweet intensity­ that leads into a long finish. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $60

Château de la Chaize 2009 Brouilly. The 91 magnificent 17th-century Château de la Chaize Martin Ray 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sau- and its cellars are national monuments. This wine has 91 vignon (Diamond Mountain). Although this a warm structure that’s packed with black cherry flavor is not particularly Diamond Mountain-esque, there’s no Williams Selyem 2010 Burt Williams’ and finished with acidity. It could age for another year denying how pretty it is. Softly tannic and minerally, it Morning Dew Ranch Pinot Noir (Ander- or two. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. offers a peacock’s tail of blackberries, black cherries, 91 son Valley). abv: 12.5% Price: $19 plum sauce, dark chocolate, , and This shows flavors of jammy raspberry sweet toasty oak. Drink now with grilled steak. —S.H. and cherry. The acidity is fantastic and so are the tan- abv: 14.6% Price: $75 nins, and the mouthfeel is silky and racy. It’s an elegant Pinot­ Noir for drinking over the next 5–6 years. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $75

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013

Gary Farrell 2009 Stiling Vineyard Pinot 90 Noir (Russian River Valley). Dry and silky, Williams Selyem 2010 Weir Vineyard Pi- Black Stallion 2010 Syrah (Napa Valley). this shows classic Russian River flavors of red cherries, not Noir (Yorkville Highlands). 91 Fairly light 90 This Syrah is very strong in tannins, the kind red currants, cranberries, cola and pomegranates, with in body and accessible now, this has raspberry, cherry that dry out the palate. However, it has balancing acid- plenty of savory spices. The tannins are currently very and new oak flavors. The flavors have a spicy, oaky edge, ity and oak influence, plus impressive blackberry, cur- strong; there will certainly be development over the while the tannins are notable, and the acidity provides rant, charred meat and black pepper flavors. Give it a next 5–6 years. —S.H. plenty of cut. Drink now–2018. —S.H. good long decant and drink with beef and game dishes. abv: 14.2% Price: $50 abv: 14.1% Price: $58 —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $38

Cameron Hughes 2010 Lot 337 Meritage Huntington 2011 Mauritson Vineyard Worthy 2008 Sophia’s Cuvee (Napa Val- (Rutherford). Soft and luxurious, this is made Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). This ley). This has Cabernet Sauvignon-driven fla- 90 90 91 from Merlot and Cabernet, and it offers rich, complex wine shows what a fine place Dry Creek Valley is for vors of ripe summer blackberries, black currants, cassis­ flavors of blackberries, cherries, currants, dark choco- growing Sauvignon Blanc. With no oak at all, it’s clean liqueur and smoky oak. It’s dry with smooth tannins, late, herbs, spices and cedar. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. and brisk in citrusy acidity, with refreshing peach, lime, and it shows lots of class. With 8,000 cases produced, abv: 14.7% Price: $18 green grass, tropical fruit and spice flavors. Editors’ it should be relatively easy to find. Editors’ Choice. Choice. —S.H. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $29

Cameron Hughes 2009 Lot 316 Cabernet 90 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Although this is ready to drink now, it offers considerable tannins that Kalaris 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Baglio del Cristo di Campobello 2011 are wrapped around layers of blackberries, black cur- Tannic, dry and acidic now, this doesn’t offer 90 C’D’C’ Rosso (Sicilia). A blend of Nero rants and cedar. The structure is impressive, so let it 90 much of the immediate opulence found in many Cal- d’Avola, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (in breathe in a decanter for an hour or two before serving. ifornia Pinot Noirs. The richness is in there, but it’s equal measure), this is soft and ripe, with black cherry, Editors’ Choice. —S.H. buried.­ The sweet core of cherries, currants, exotic cassis, chocolate and toasted espresso-bean notes. The abv: 14.5% Price: $20 mouthfeel is rich and velvety, with a touch of berry-like spices, mushrooms and minerals is just waiting for time sweetness. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. Editors’ to release it. Cellar this for 6–8 years. Cellar Selec- Choice. —M.L. tion. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 14.6% Price: $55

WineMag.com | 9 Williams Selyem 2010 Eastside Road Tarara 2010 CasaNoVA Merlot (Virgin- 90 ia). The nose is packed with dark notes of 90 Neighbors Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- Planeta 2010 Dorilli (Cerasuolo di Vit- desiccated­ strawberry, red currant and caramel lozenge, ley). Although this wine is easy to drink now, it shows 90 toria Classico). Crisp, clean and elegant, plus dried herb and maduro subtleties. Astringent, lip- the Williams Selyem signature of complexity and bal- this selection would pair with white meat or pumpkin- grabbing tannins bolster the fleshy, medium- to full- ance. Delicious in raspberry, cherry and cola fruit, it stuffed ravioli. It offers a streamlined mouthfeel, with bodied palate. A few more years of bottle aging should has crisp acidity and a sweet coat of oak. It’s a blend of tones of raspberry and blueberry, backed by zesty acid- help mitigate some of the tannic blow, but enjoy­ it now several ­ vineyards from which the winery sources fruit. ity. Palm Bay International. —M.L. with a brief decanting and a slab of grilled meat. —A.H. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $33 abv: 15% Price: $50 abv: 14.2% Price: $52

Tarara 2010 Tranquility Cabernet Sauvi- Cameron Hughes 2010 Lot 325 Mer- gnon-Tannat (Virginia). Aged for 18 months 90 itage (Atlas Peak). There are lots of juicy Santa Carolina 2010 Reserva de Famil- in 100% new Virginia oak, this hefty blend of 60% Cab- 89 blackberry,­ cherry, currant, dark chocolate and cedar 90 ia Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). ernet Sauvignon and 40% Tannat has a deep, bass-like flavors in this Merlot-based Bordeaux-style blend. It’s Smooth and dark on the nose, this exudes a deep, earthy nose that mixes scents of caramel, mocha and cinnamon bone dry and refreshingly crisp in acidity, and it shows accent of lead pencil. The palate is firm, tannic and lay- with notes of potpourri, dark cherry and gravel. It feels firm, hard tannins. It doesn’t have the depth to age, so ered, with healthy doses of blackberry, cassis, black fleshy and full on the palate, with chewy tannins, stun- drink it soon with rich food, like beef . Editors’ pepper and tobacco flavors. Like most top-level Maipo ning acids and a bold, well-stated finish. —A.H. Cabernets, this shows herbal notes of olive and moss on abv: 15% Price: $40 Choice. —S.H. the finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $16 abv: 14.5% Price: $24

William Hill Estate 2010 Bench Blend Feudo Arancio 2010 Cantodoro (Sicilia). Tarara 2010 Cabernet Franc (Virginia). Chardonnay (Napa Valley). There’s some- 90 An 80-20 blend of Nero d’Avola and Cabernet Aromas of spicy cherry, mixed bramble fruit, thing Chablis-like in the stony minerality that marks this 89 90 Sauvignon, this opens with bright fruit notes that recall flower and start out mild, but become explo- Chardonnay. But at the same time, it’s sweet in orange, cherry, forest berry and plum. It is soft and plush, with sive and rich as the wine sits in the glass. The power- peach, green apple and golden mango flavors. A rich, smooth tannins and good length. Prestige Wine Imports house palate shows intense but finessed concentration, satisfying Chardonnay for drinking now. Production was Corp. —M.L. with succulent cherry, herb and cocoa flavors that are 1,913 cases. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 bound by chewy tannins. Editors’ Choice. —A.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 15.5% Price: $23

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013

Feudo Principi di Butera 2011 Insolia (Si- 89 cilia). This estate (owned by the Zonin family) Feudo Arancio 2010 Dalila (Sicilia). Gril- Lawer Family 2011 Hooker Breakaway has recently overhauled its white wine program, and the 88 lo and Viognier are blended to produce a rich 87 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This excellent results show with this beautiful Insolia. Fra- and creamy white wine, with a pretty bouquet of white has appealing flavors of tropical fruit, orange, peach and grant citrus and peach aromas are followed by a creamy flower, stone fruit and citrus. This would pair beautifully vanilla, with a creamy texture and an overall sense of el- thickness and a spicy citrus-like intensity. Zonin USA. with calamari stuffed with breadcrumbs and pine nuts. egance. The acidity is brisk and clean. —S.H. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —M.L. abv: 13.7% Price: $24 abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 13% Price: $16

Michael David 2010 Inkblot Tannat (Lodi). Feudo Principi di Butera 2010 Syrah (Si- 88 Michael David continues to showcase some of Lawer Family 2009 Three Coins Betsy’s 89 cilia). This Syrah opens with ripe, pulpy fruit the more unusual grape varieties. This Tannat is big 87 Vineyard Syrah (Knights Valley). This is and rich aromas of red cherry, blackberry, spice and shouldered, rich and decadent, and it tastes brambly, rich and dry in blackberries, licorice, bacon, sweet oak crushed black pepper. There are touches of smoke and which Zinfandel fans will appreciate. It’s full of jammy­ and peppery spices. It shows lots of acidity and tannins, barbecue on the finish. Zonin USA. Editors’ Choice. red fruit and leather notes, with a long finish. —V.B. giving it a firm structure. Give it a brief decant and drink —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $35 now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 14.6% Price: $28

Martin Ray 2011 Red (California). Cameron Hughes 2010 Lot 350 Chardon- This shows full-bodied blackberry, black currant, nay (Santa Maria Valley). Made in a ripe, 87 Silverado 2008 Mt George Vineyard 87 smoky bacon and pepper flavors, wrapped in firm tan- appealing style, this has rich flavors of pineapple jam, Estate­ Grown Merlot (Napa Valley). This nins. It’s a versatile, easy-to-like wine. Editors’ Choice. 89 tropical fruit, vanilla and buttered toast, brightened by has vigorous tannins and flavors of red cherry pie, red —S.H. crisp acidity. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. currant and spice. Not a long-term ager, but it offers abv: 13.9% Price: $13 abv: NA Price: $14 plenty of upscale pleasure now. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $35

WineMag.com | 11 BEST BUYS

Lawer Family 2011 Duck Shack Char- Tenuta Rapitalà 2011 Campo Reale Nero donnay (Russian River Valley). One d’Avola (Sicilia). This is an easy expres- 85 87 dimensional­ and clean, this has brisk acidity and a sion of Nero d’Avola, and it would pair with roasted creamy mouthfeel, with pineapple, orange, lime and ham or cheese ravioli in meat sauce. Bright cherry and mineral flavors. —S.H. Pepi 2011 Pinot Grigio (California). This blueberry­ notes come with a touch of bitter almond. abv: 13.2% Price: $22 is dryish, impeccably clean and brisk in mouth- Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. 89 watering acidity, with layers of citrus and tropical fruits, —M.L. apples, vanilla, honey and white pepper. It’s a delight abv: 13.5% Price: $13 BEST BUYS to drink by itself, or with everything from Vietnamese to Mexican cuisine. Production was 15,000 cases. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

Cameron Hughes 2010 Lot 335 Meritage 92 (Oakville). A Bordeaux-style blend made pri- marily from Merlot, plus Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab- ernet Franc and Malbec, this is layered with waves of blackberries, blueberries, currants, dark chocolate and Pepi 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (California). Feudo di Santa Tresa 2011 Purato Made oak flavors. The tannins are pure and refined. Produc- Pepi is doing a great job lately making inexpen- With Organic Grapes Nero d’Avola (Si- 88 86 tion is 2,000 cases. Best Buy. —S.H. sive white wines, and with this Sauvignon Blanc, the cilia). Part of the natural wine movement, this wine is abv: 14.6% Price: $14 winery really knocks it out of the park. This is bone made from organic grapes, and the label is printed with dry, mouthwateringly tart in acidity and complex, offer- vegetable ink on recycled paper. The quality of fruit is ing flavors of green grass, gooseberry, lime, vanilla and very nice, with a juicy palate and a bright berry flavor white pepper. It should be relatively easy to find thanks on the finish. Vias Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. to its production of 10,000 cases. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $10

Tangent 2011 Paragon Vineyard Sauvi- 90 gnon Blanc (Edna Valley). Clean and sleek on the palate, this wine has brisk Central Coast acidity, which highlights the complex flavors of green melon, Lawer Family 2011 Three Coins Betsy’s lemon, lime, Asian pear and white pepper. Made with- Tenuta Rapitalà 2011 Piano Maltese (Si- 86 Vineyard Viognier (Knights Valley). Made out oak, it shows the wonderful of its vineyard. cilia). Grillo, Catarratto and Chardonnay are using grapes sourced from a high valley between the Best Buy. —S.H. 88 Russian River and Napa valleys, this wine is rich in trop- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 blended together to produce a rich and creamy white ical fruit, lemon, honeysuckle and vanilla flavors. Brisk wine, with overtones of vanilla, apricot and honey. It acidity helps to keep it from seeming cloying. —S.H. is fresh, not at all heavy or flat. Frederick Wildman & abv: 14.3% Price: $26 Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $13

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Mont Gravet 2011 Côtes de Gascogne. Smoking Loon 2011 Steelbird Unoaked An herbal wine, this has fruit flavors that sug- 87 Chardonnay (California). gest peach and crisp apple. Round, textured and fra- 86 This Chardonnay Con Carne 2011 Merlot (Central Valley). grant, this is for drinking now. Winesellers Ltd. Best has flavors of rich, ripe tropical fruit, tangerine, apricot Buy. —R.V. and lime. The tangy acidity provides a keen finish. Best 85 This Merlot is dry and scratchy on the nose, abv: 11.5% Price: $9 Buy. —S.H. with raspberry and spice aromas. It’s fresh and clean on abv: 13.5% Price: $10 the palate, with a quick wave of spicy red-berry flavor. It remains spicy and a touch minty on the finish. PL360 Beverage Partners. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

Con Carne 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Cen- 86 tral Valley). The bouquet is neutral except for a spot of lemon-lime. The palate is clean and balanced, Newman’s Own 2010 Pinot Noir (Califor- with decent weight and fresh acidity. Flavors of green 85 nia). This delivers great Pinot-like character for fruit, , mineral and herb fall off on the finish. Tin Roof 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Califor- its price tier. Give it credit for the dry silkiness, clean Drink immediately. PL360 Beverage Partners. Best 86 nia). This shows real Sauvignon character in its acidity and vibrant cherry, cola and oak flavors.Best Buy. —M.S. brisk, mouthwatering acidity. Its green grass and goose- Buy. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $10 berry notes accompany riper lemon and lime fruit. Best abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

CORRECTIONS

On page 38 of the 2012 Best of Year issue, we misiden- tified Mixologist of the Month TJ Vytlacil’s “cocktail mentor.” His name is Ted Kilgore. Cambria 2010 Bazia Rosso 85 (Sicilia). From the Messina­ area in northern Sicily, this is a 50- On page 65 of the February 2013 issue, we incorrectly Pepi 2011 Chenin Blanc-Viognier (Cali- 50 blend of Nero d’Avola and Nerello listed the vintage of the Donnachiara Taurasi wine re- 86 fornia). This is a blend of Chenin Blanc and Mascalese that bursts with bright berry view as 2007. The correct vintage for that review is Viognier that’s zesty in acidity and slightly sweet in hon- freshness. The finish is clean, bright and 2008. eyed flavor. Immensely fruity, it bears notes of orange, tight. Tuttovino LLC. Best Buy. —M.L. green apple, lime and vanilla. A versatile wine to drink abv: 13% Price: $10 with today’s spectrum of ethnic fare. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $10

WineMag.com | 13 Sea Smoke 2010 Ten Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita dalwood flavors that are girded with tangy minerality. 5–6 years to begin to emerge from this cocoon. Cellar 93 Hills). Big, deep and hard in tannins, this wine Drink now with steak, lamb or tuna. —S.H. Selection. —S.H. shows the estate’s power and concentration, bearing abv: 14% Price: $50 abv: 14.6% Price: $55 blasts of cherries, currants, persimmons and cola. The flavors are pinpointed with laserlike focus, with hints of Davies 2010 Londer Vineyards Pinot Noir Renteria 2009 River Ranch Pinot Noir cocoa powder and tamari. It should begin to open by 91 (Anderson Valley). A soft Anderson Valley 90 (Russian River Valley). This is soft, delicate 2017, and develop for many years afterward. Cellar Se- Pinot Noir from one of the region’s better known vine- and finessed. It’s not a blockbuster, but a silky charmer lection. —S.H. yards, this has thick fruit, yet it offers a silky counter- that offers layers of red currants, Dr. Pepper, vanilla and abv: 14.7% Price: $82 point to the meatiness lurking in the background. With sandalwood. Ready to drink now. —S.H. tart cherry and dark plum flavors, the wine has depth abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Williams Selyem 2010 Coastlands Vine- and finishes long and clean. —V.B. 93 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full abv: 14.3% Price: $50 Sea Smoke 2010 Southing Pinot Noir review see page 6. 90 (Sta. Rita Hills). Aggressive now, this wine is abv: 13.6% Price: $75 Paul Hobbs 2010 Katherine Lindsay Es- big, distinguished by deep, pure flavors of red currants, 91 tate Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). sweet sandalwood, persimmons, cola and baking spices. Williams Selyem 2010 Flax Vineyard Pi- This has a squeeze of lime-like acidity that cuts across But it needs time for all of the parts to knit together. 93 not Noir (Russian River Valley). For full re- the broad, rich cherry-pie, red licorice and spicy sandal- Best after 2016 and for some years afterward. Cellar view see page 6. wood flavors, which come with a touch of funky leather. Selection. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $60 For all of that fruit, it has a remarkably delicate mouth- abv: 14.4% Price: $59 feel, and it finishes dry and clean. It’s very hard to pre- Williams Selyem 2010 Olivet Lane Vine- dict this wine’s future, but it’s beautiful now to drink af- Storm 2010 Joh Sebastiano Vineyard Pi- 93 yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). ter a few hours in the decanter, and it should be fine 90 not Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This shows lots of For full review see page 6. over the next four years. —S.H. finesse and control, despite its power. It has raspberry, abv: 14.2% Price: $75 abv: 14.5% Price: $85 cherry jam and Dr. Pepper flavors, plus a sweet coat of oak that adds vanilla and cinnamon spice notes. It can Antonio Patric 2009 La Encantada Vine- Small Vines 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian be consumed now, and it should develop in the bottle 92 yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This has 91 River Valley). Here’s an expressive, savory over 3–4 years. —S.H. brisk acidity, finely ground tannins and an intense min- Pinot Noir for drinking young. Dry and crisp, this has abv: 14.2% Price: $50 erality that gives it a nervy core. The palate is light and pretty flavors of raspberry, cherry, gingersnap and san- silky, yet it has intensely concentrated flavors of sour dalwood flavors. It demonstrates the winemaker’s art Williams Selyem 2010 Eastside Road cherry candy, raspberry jam and sandalwood. It’s a fine of blending from various vineyards around the valley. 90 Neighbors Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- wine to drink now, and it should develop in the bottle —S.H. ley). For full review see page 10. over the next 5–6 years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $55 abv: 14.2% Price: $52 abv: 14.2% Price: $55 Williams Selyem 2010 Burt Williams’ Aiken 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Moun- Gary Farrell 2009 Hallberg Vineyard Di- 91 Morning Dew Ranch Pinot Noir (Ander- 89 tain). This is a big, rich, somewhat heavy Pinot 92 jon Clones Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- son Valley). For full review see page 8. Noir, stuffed with flavors of raspberry and cherry pie, ley). For full review see page 7. abv: 13.5% Price: $75 red licorice and oak. It’s impressive for its sheer volume, abv: 14.1% Price: $60 with zippy acidity that helps balance the high alcohol. Williams Selyem 2010 Weir Vineyard Pi- It needs a few hours in the decanter to round off the Sequana 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia 91 not Noir (Yorkville Highlands). For full re- edges, and it should hold in the bottle for several years. 92 Highlands). For full review see page 7. view see page 9. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $32 abv: 14.1% Price: $58 abv: 14.9% Price: $55

Small Vines 2010 Baranoff Vineyard Pi- Breggo 2010 Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir Hahn 2011 SLH Estate Pinot Noir (San- 92 not Noir (Russian River Valley). Really easy 90 (Anderson Valley). An assertive yet rounded 89 ta Lucia Highlands). The silky texture is de- to like now for its silky approachability, and for the way Pinot Noir, this has sharp cherry fruit and a hint of rose lightful, giving it the lightness desirable in Pinot Noir. the flavors gather upfront and through the long, spicy that is very distinctive in its herbal touch. Crafted by Santa Lucia acidity gives a bright edge to the cherry, finish. Polished and crisp, it has flavors of raspberries, Breggo, which is owned by Napa producer Cliff Lede, it cola, pomegranate and heirloom tomato flavors. Drink cherries, tart cranberries and ripe pomegranates. The is a Pinot that many Cabernet fans will love: dark, toasty now–2014 for maximum freshness. —S.H. fruit is sourced from the cool, southern part of the Rus- and rich. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 sian River Valley. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 13.9% Price: $71 James Family Cellars 2009 Stony Point Gary Farrell 2009 Stiling Vineyard Pinot 89 Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir (Sonoma Small Vines 2010 MK Vineyard Pinot Noir 90 Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review Coast). James Family continues to produce solid Pinot 92 (Sonoma Coast). Gentle and silky, this Pi- see page 9. Noirs from this vineyard that are typical of the Sonoma not Noir has perfumes of rose petals, ripe red cherries, abv: 14.2% Price: $50 Coast. The wine is dry, properly tart in acidity, and has flat cola and sandalwood, plus a hint of grilled bacon. flavors of pomegranates and cranberries, with astrin- It tastes as sweetly delicious as it smells, and it feels Kalaris 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). gent cherry-skin-like tannins. —S.H. round, supple and polished. So easy to drink now, but 90 For full review see page 9. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.2% Price: $35 you might miss the complexity if you do. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $55 abv: 14% Price: $71 Bouchaine 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Kalaris 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). 88 This Pinot Noir is drinkable now for its soft de- Talley 2010 Stone Corral Vineyard Pinot 90 Very rich and extracted, this shows the power of liciousness. It’s pretty oaky, but it offers plenty of rasp- 92 Noir (Edna Valley). This is crisp and pure fine coastal Pinot Noir. It’s also very tannic and in need berry, cherry and spice flavors that are wrapped into a with Edna Valley intensity, offering complex waves of of some time in the cellar. It has a deep core of red cher- silky texture. —S.H. raspberry and cherry pie, savory spice and exotic san- ries, pomegranates, red currants and licorice, but the abv: 13.8% Price: $35 ripeness is wrapped in a shroud of astringency. Give it

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 Pessagno 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia vors of raspberry and cherry jam, licorice, brown sug- Arista 2010 Harper’s Rest Pinot Noir 88 Highlands). Soft, sweet and appealing, this ar and smoky oak. Balanced with bright acidity, this is 84 (Russian River Valley). Cherry, cola and has raspberry and cherry jam flavors, with an oak-influ- meant to be consumed now and over the next few years. pomegranate flavors mark this dry, silky Pinot Noir. It’s enced note of buttered toast. It’s an easy, gentle wine, —S.H. a little soft and simple. —S.H. with some real depth and complexity. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.2% Price: $75 abv: 14.8% Price: $28 Kenwood 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv- Cameron Hughes 2010 Lot 326 Pinot Renteria 2009 Knittel Vineyard Pinot Noir 86 er Valley). A vigorous, everyday sort of Pinot 84 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Light in body and tart 88 (Carneros). An exotic, spicy Pinot Noir, this Noir, this is dry, tart and tannic, yet it has a nice silky in acids, this bone-dry Pinot Noir shows modest flavors is medium-bodied and crisp, with complex cranberry, texture and pleasant cherry, cola and baking spice fla- of cherry skins, red apple peelings and cola. —S.H. raspberry, red licorice and smoky sandalwood flavors. vors. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $16 Drink this dry, silky effort now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 abv: 14.1% Price: $40 Red Pony Ranch 2010 Pinot Noir (San- MacMurray Ranch 2010 Pinot Noir (Rus- 84 ta Barbara County). This is aggressive in The Gardener 2011 Pinot Noir (Carner- sian River Valley). There is lots of oak influ- texture, with lots of tart acidity and sandpapery tan- os). This has acidity and tannins that are rich 86 88 ence evident in this wine, with flavors of raspberry jam nins. There are some less-than-ripe wintergreen flavors and complex. The raspberry, cola and licorice flavors slathered on buttered, cinnamon-scented toast. It’s also alongside the cherry fruit. Drink now. —S.H. have a nice coating of smoky oak. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 13.7% Price: $35 quite tart. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $27 Haute Red 2010 Pinot Noir (California). Williams Selyem 2010 Vista Verde Vine- Judging by the high-heeled shoe on the label, One Hope 2011 Pinot Noir (North Coast). 83 88 yard Pinot Noir (San Benito County). The this is one of those wines aimed at the female consumer. This is a light Pinot Noir that tastes of barely raspberry, cherry and blackberry flavors are delicious, 86 It’s Pinot in name only, with clean, simple cherry candy ripe red cherries, and earthiness that almost veers into and the oak brings just the right touch of sweet, smoky and oak tastes. —S.H. sauvage territory. The lightness carries through onto the toast. The tannins are rich and fine, and the palate abv: 13% Price: $11 bears a streak of citrusy acidity that cuts right down the finish, which is quick. —V.B. middle. It should mellow with 5–6 years in the bottle. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Red Pony Ranch 2011 Pinot Noir (Cen- —S.H. tral Coast). A simple Pinot Noir, this is dry and Pedroncelli 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian 83 abv: 13.8% Price: $56 crisp in acidity, with cherry pie, mint and cola flavors. River Valley). 86 The lightness of texture and —S.H. Arista 2010 Two Birds Estate Pinot Noir crisp acidity make this Pinot Noir easy to drink now. The abv: 14.4% Price: $12 87 (Russian River Valley). Dry and crisp in raspberry and cola flavors finish clean and dry. —S.H. acidity, with a silky texture, this is a polished Pinot Noir abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Chime 2011 Pinot Noir (California). This for drinking now. It has a rich array of cherry pie and 81 is minty and light, with a soft texture and red sweet oak flavors, with earthier notes of pomegranate Pessagno 2010 Central Avenue Vineyard cherry tones. The finish turns overtly earthy, even barn- and cola. —S.H. 86 Pinot Noir (Monterey). This dry, vigorous Pi- yard-like. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $68 not Noir has tart acids, with flavors of jammy red ber- abv: 13.2% Price: $12 ries, stone fruits and sandalwood, plus hints of cola and Envolve 2011 Lennox Vineyard Pinot Noir . It’s a refreshing Pinot Noir that you can even 87 (Russian River Valley). This has impressive chill a little; drink now. —S.H. BARBERA flavors of cherry pie filling, red currants, cola and -co abv: 14.7% Price: $21 coa, plus notable oak influence and tart, mouthwatering Enotria 2009 Barbera (Mendocino Coun- ty). A round, robust Barbera from winemaker acidity. The parts haven’t come together and likely won’t La Honda Winery 2010 Sequence Pinot 88 Greg Graziano, this has detailed layers of blackberry before the wine heads south, so drink now with lamb, Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). A rich appli- 85 and currant, with soft tannins and a toasty finish. Pair salmon, tuna and other Pinot-friendly foods. —S.H. cation of oak dresses up the flavors of red cherry, cola, this selection with something savory, like a stew, and abv: 14.8% Price: $40 pomegranate and persimmon. It’s dry and silky, yet anything made with mushrooms and Parmesan. —V.B. there is a some sharpness. —S.H. Frei Brothers 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 13.8% Price: $32 87 (Russian River Valley). This is made in a lighter style for drinking now. It has a translucent ruby Lang 2010 Barbera (Amador County). Mi Sueño 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv- color, and the palate feels dry and silky, with citrusy ac- This Barbera has muscular, robust and tangy er Valley). Dark in color, this Pinot Noir is dry 87 ids brightening the sour red-cherry candy, persimmon 85 flavors of dark plum and blackberry, with a finish that’s and somewhat heavy on the palate, with blackberry jam, and spice flavors. —S.H. distinctly smoky, akin to pipe tobacco. Enjoy this with plum and dark chocolate flavors that come with a touch abv: 14.2% Price: $27 a host of hearty foods, ranging from pasta to smoked of overripe raisin. Oak barrel aging brings sweet, toasty meats. —V.B. James Family Cellars 2010 Stony Point notes. Drink it now before the fruit fades. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $18 87 Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir (Sonoma abv: 14.5% Price: $48 Coast). A bit tough and gritty, with a less-than-ripe Fiddletown Cellars 2010 Concerto Bar- green tomato flavor alongside the notes of cherry and Newman’s Own 2010 Pinot Noir (Califor- 86 bera (Amador County). This rustic Barbera pomegranate. Oaky richness adds sweetness and texture 85 nia). For full review see page 13. Best Buy. tastes of blackberry. It’s medium bodied with just-right to this wine. It’s not going anywhere, but the acid-tannin abv: 13.5% Price: $10 acidity and tannins that are well-integrated and smooth. structure and minerality are pleasurable. Give it a de- The finish gets a little bit meaty, which will work fine cant and enjoy. —S.H. River Rock 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv- alongside meaty, smoky foods. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $35 85 er Valley). This is a little raw and acidic in tex- abv: 15% Price: $27 ture, with a trace of underripeness. But it passes the ba- Lucienne 2010 Lone Oak Vineyard Pinot sic Pinot test, boasting a silky texture and good raspber- Bray 2010 Barbera (Shenandoah Valley). 87 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This wine ry and cherry flavors. —S.H. 85 A Barbera offering dark plum and handfuls of shows the richness of the vineyard, offering flashy fla- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 meaty brawn, it has rounded tannins and plenty of in-

WineMag.com | 15 tensity. Pair this with spicy sausage and risotto to help now, but give it time to breathe in a decanter or in a McManis 2011 Syrah (California). Despite it mellow. —V.B. glass. —S.H. 81 some cherry and blackberry fruit, this is fairly abv: 15.4% Price: $22 abv: 14.1% Price: $75 simple and dull. It’s soft and sweetly spicy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Margerum 2008 Colson Canyon Vineyard SYRAH 90 Syrah (Santa Barbara County). It’s hard to MacLaren 2010 Judge Family Vineyard resist the charms of this delicious Syrah. It has brisk ZINFANDEL acids and tannins, yet it’s curiously soft on the palate, Syrah (Bennett Valley). This Sonoma-based Williams Selyem 2010 Bacigalupi Vine- 93 with rich, exotically sweet flavors of black currants, dark winery, founded in 2007, specializes in cool-climate yard Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). For chocolate, bacon and plum sauce. —S.H. 93 Syrah.­ Bennett Valley, southeast of Santa Rosa, is cer- full review see page 6. abv: 14.1% Price: $36 tainly a cool part of Sonoma County, and the cool 2010 abv: 14.7% Price: $50 vintage has given owner-winemaker Steve Law a great Trione 2008 River Road Ranch Syrah success. The wine oozes dramatic flavors of blackberry Lang 2010 Zinfandel (Amador County). (Russian River Valley). This rich Syrah be- jam, licorice, dark chocolate, grilled bacon, fine herbs 89 This intoxicates with berry pie and coffee notes. guiles with its soft, velvety texture and delicious flavors 89 and black pepper, which come wrapped in firm but sup- It’s a soft, elegant and restrained Zinfandel, with savory of blackberry, chocolate, bacon and black pepper. High ple tannins. The dry finish is long—the mark of a well- curves from beginning to end. —V.B. in alcohol, but a fine follow-up to the very good 2007. made, concentrated wine. Drink now–2016. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $19 Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $38 abv: 15.3% Price: $32 Louis M. Martini 2010 Monte Rosso Vine- MacLaren 2010 Syrah (Russian River yard Gnarly Vine Zinfandel (Sonoma Val- Lawer Family 2009 Three Coins Betsy’s 89 Valley). This is the least expensive of the win- ley). Distinctive as always, this is another powerful 92 Vineyard Syrah (Knights Valley). For full ery’s four new 2010 Syrahs, and it’s the most approach- 87 Zinfandel from Martini, which has a long history with review see page 11. able. With fine, supple tannins and a dry finish, it shows this mountain vineyard. The cool 2010 vintage was abv: 14.6% Price: $28 flavors of rich blackberry jam, black currant, dark choc- kind, bringing the wine to its usual high-alcohol super- ripeness, yet maintaining vital acidity. Notes of raisins, olate, anise and pepper, which are enhanced with sweet Morgan 2010 Syrah (Santa Lucia High- blackberry jam and chocolate are all found in this heady, oak. Only 122 cases were produced, but it’s worth a lands). Dry and soft in tannins, this exudes 87 Porty wine. Drink now with rich barbecue and . search. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. rich blackberry, grilled prosciutto and black pepper fla- abv: 14.4% Price: $28 —S.H. vors. Made for drinking now, it shows real Santa Lucia abv: 16.3% Price: $50 elegance at an affordable price. —S.H. Margerum 2008 Purisima Mountain Vine- abv: 13.6% Price: $20 92 yard Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). Rich and Envolve 2010 Old Vine Primitivo (So- noma County). Rich, interesting flavors of dazzling, this has a chocolate-covered cherry flavor, Pessagno 2010 Idyll Times Syrah (San 88 chocolate, blackberry jam, grilled bacon, ground black complexed with notes of anise, wild mushrooms, bacon Benito County). This treads the line between 87 pepper and sandalwood mark this wine. The pepper re- and smoky sandalwood. It feels soft and velvety all the slightly rustic and refined. The tannins are sandpapery, ally sticks out, suggesting pairing this with spicy meats way through. Drink it now. —S.H. and it has lots of zingy acidity, making the wine feel a abv: 14.1% Price: $36 and stews. —S.H. little rough. But the core of blackberry fruit is rich and abv: 15.5% Price: $35 dynamic. Probably not an ager, so give it a good decant- MacLaren 2010 Drouthy Neebors Syrah ing, and drink it over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. (Sonoma County). The name of this wine, Michael David 2010 Rage Zinfandel (Dry 91 abv: 14.7% Price: $35 which is made using Russian River Valley and Bennett 88 Creek Valley). Gigantic is just one word to characterize this Zinfandel. For starters, it’s enormously Valley fruit, is Scottish for “thirsty friends.” The winery’s Lawer Family 2010 Hooker Betsy’s Vine- high in alcohol—at 16% by volume, it’s almost Port-like. club members helped put the blend together. Bone dry, yard Home Pitch Syrah (Knights Valley). 86 Yet it’s dry and smooth in tannins, and the heat gives tannic and complex, it has flavors of blackberry, black Plenty of red currant, chocolate, blackberry jam, cola, a heady boost to the black currant, black pepper and currant, licorice, grilled meat and black pepper that pepper and cedar flavors in this dry, tannic wine. Drink sweet oak flavors. Not for everyone, but it defines this drink well now. —S.H. up. —S.H. powerful Dry Creek style of Zin. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $35 abv: 14% Price: $28 abv: 16% Price: $59 MacLaren 2010 Samantha’s Vineyard Robert Hall 2010 Syrah (Paso Robles). Syrah (Russian River Valley). Black Stallion 2010 Zinfandel (Rock- 91 This bone- Sharp acidity and less-than-ripe green flavors 84 pile). This shows high alcohol and a full-bodied dry, full-bodied Syrah has firm tannins and intense con- are found in this Syrah, which was blended with a little 87 mouthfeel, plus massive concentration of ripe, slightly centration. It’s a little warm in alcohol, with flavors of Grenache. Notes of sour blackberry and cherry candy roasted fruit. It’s enormous in flavors of blackberries, dark chocolate, blackberry jam, cassis liqueur, grilled also surface, and it finishes bone dry. —S.H. sweet black currants and licorice, sprinkled with cocoa bacon and black pepper, plus a coating of sweet, smoky abv: 14.5% Price: $18 oak. You might want to give this wine a year or so in the and black pepper. —S.H. cellar to let everything meld together. —S.H. Super Sonoman 2009 Syrah (Sonoma abv: 15.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $38 County). This has lots of ripe, jammy raspber- 83 Black Stallion 2010 Monte Rosso Vine- ry and cherry flavors, with a spicy finish. But it’s too soft Black Stallion 2010 Syrah (Napa Valley). yard Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). This is a and glyceriney sweet in high alcohol. —S.H. 87 big, powerful Zinfandel that’s typical of Monte Rosso in 90 For full review see page 9. abv: 15% Price: $50 abv: 14.4% Price: $38 its mountain intensity of fruit. It tastes like the essence Bianchi 2008 Heritage Selection Syrah of ripe blackberries and sweet black currants, with lots Margerum 2008 Alondra de los Pra- (Paso Robles). The fruit is fading in this Syr- of heat from the alcohol. Drink this robust, lusty wine dos Vineyard Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). 82 90 ah, although you’ll still find some cherry flavor. There’s with barbecue and rich meat stews. —S.H. There is lots of cranberry tartness in this Syrah, giving also an overripe, raisiny edge that makes it hard to ap- abv: 15% Price: $45 it a mouthwatering zinginess. You’ll also find rich, at- preciate. —S.H. Collier Falls 2009 Primitivo (Dry Creek tractive flavors of raspberry and cherry jam, bacon and abv: 14.6% Price: $17 sandalwood flavors. It’s a good, dry selection to drink 87 Valley). Here’s a lusty, full-throttle wine that’s

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 marked by strong flavors of black pepper, blackstrap Rancho Zabaco 2011 Sonoma Heritage core of blackberries, black currants and minerals is so molasses, blackberry jam and creamy dark chocolate. 86 Vines Zinfandel (Sonoma County). Even delicious now, you can hardly keep from drinking it, but High alcohol gives it a touch of heat and glyceriney after an hour of airing, this wine is tart and sweet in it will develop cellar complexity with 6–8 years of aging, sweetness. —S.H. primary blackberry, boysenberry and cherry fruit, which and possibly far more. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $34 gives it a rustic, jammy taste. The sweetness suggests abv: 13.9% Price: $40 drinking this wine with rich meats slathered in sugary La Storia 2011 Estate Bottled Zinfandel barbecue sauce. —S.H. Louis M. Martini 2009 Lot No. 1 Caber- 87 (Alexander Valley). This tastes like melted abv: 14.9% Price: $15 94 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full re- milk chocolate and blackberry jam spread on buttered view see page 4. cinnamon toast, drizzled with some anisette liqueur and Seven Deadly Zins 2010 Zinfandel (Lodi). abv: 15.2% Price: $145 sprinkled with black pepper. It’s lusty, robust, high in 86 This bottling is classic in its ample, smoky alcohol and sweet, and it will pair well with barbecue. marshmallow, campfire and jam sandwich flavors. The Turnbull 2009 Leopoldina Cabernet Sau- —S.H. palate is laced with notes of red licorice and vanilla. 94 vignon (Oakville). To call this Cabernet mas- abv: 14.9% Price: $25 —V.B. sive is an understatement. This is packed with black­ abv: 15% Price: $16 berry and black currant flavors, complexed with dark Lava Cap 2010 Reserve Zinfandel (El Do- licorice and dark chocolate notes, with a swirl of cin- 87 rado). Even with Merlot and Cabernet Franc Lapis Luna 2011 Romanzo Moon, Shoup namon spice on the finish. It’s so powerful and deli- in the mix, there’s no mistaking this is a Zinfandel. It has 85 Vineyard Zinfandel (Lodi). Soft, round and cious, you’ll be tempted to drink it now, but don’t. The pepper and jam flavors, with straightjacketlike tannins textured, this is a minty Zinfandel with a pronounced tannins are very strong; the wine is very dry; and it will and plenty of body. —V.B. jolt of smoke on the long finish. —V.B. easily­ reward patience. Best after 2017. Cellar Selec- abv: 14.9% Price: $24 abv: 14.8% Price: $14 tion. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Plungerhead 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel Dancing Bull 2011 Zinfandel (California). 87 (Lodi). Direct and easygoing, this Zinfandel 84 This has a white pepper flavor, plus acids and Bardessono 2010 Maxine’s Vineyard tastes of blackberry, bacon, clove and pepper. The oak is green tannins that join forces to make the palate feel 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville). This tame, and the wine is ready to drink. —V.B. jagged. With its berry and currant flavors, this needs shows the finesse of the vineyard, not to mention the abv: 14.5% Price: $16 to be paired with rich meats and cheeses for balance. winemaker’s talent. Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvi- —S.H. gnon, it’s bone dry and brisk in acidity, with firm tan- Wine Guerrilla 2010 Conte Vineyard Zin- abv: 13.9% Price: $10 nins that make it one for the cellar. It has a huge core 87 fandel (Russian River Valley). This is an of blackberry and black currant fruit that’s waiting to old-fashioned blend of Zin, Petite Sirah, Carignane, Ali- Cambridge & Sunset 2010 Zinfandel emerge. Try after 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. cante Bouchet and Grenache. It’s high in alcohol, with 82 (California). Simple and slightly sweet, this abv: 14.6% Price: $45 heady flavors of wild berries, raisins, chocolate, licorice has flavors of raspberry, sour cherry candy and mint. and spice. There is nothing shy about it, and it’s best —S.H. Pellet Estate 2010 Pellet Vineyard Caber- paired with barbecue. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 93 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full re- abv: 15.6% Price: $35 view see page 5. Tussock Jumper 2010 Zinfandel (Califor- abv: 14.7% Price: $85 Wine Guerrilla 2010 Monte Rosso Vine- 82 nia). A basic red wine to sip at parties, this is 87 yard Block E44 Zinfandel (Sonoma Val- dry and fruity, and it shows Zin’s typical note of peppery Trefethen 2009 Estate Grown Reserve ley). High alcohol gives this wine prickly, peppery heat. spice. —S.H. 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak Knoll). The Although it’s dry, it’s Port-like, with raisin, blackberry, abv: 13.5% Price: $11 structure of this Cabernet Sauvignon (which includes white pepper, licorice and bacon flavors. Give it credit small amounts of other Bordeaux grapes) shows lots of for sheer power. It will age, without ever losing its rustic elegance, with refined tannins and acidity, plus a tasteful character. —S.H. CABERNET SAUVIGNON application of oak. Bone dry, it bears classic blackberry abv: 15% Price: $42 Trefethen 2007 Halo Cabernet Sauvignon and black currant flavors. It will develop over the next (Oak Knoll). For full review see page 4. Cel- six years, but is drinkable now. —S.H. Wine Guerrilla 2010 Mounts Vineyard Cy- 95 lar Selection. abv: 14.1% Price: $100 press Block Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). 87 abv: 14.8% Price: $175 High alcohol gives this Zin some jalapeño-like heat. It Turnbull 2009 Amoenus Cabernet Sauvi- shows classically ripe Dry Creek flavors of briary, bram- Turnbull 2009 Estate Grown Black Label 93 gnon (Calistoga). Stash this Cabernet in the bly blackberry, raisin and chocolate. It will age, gradu- 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For full cellar and forget about it for at least six years. Right now, ally losing fresh fruit and turning more leathery. —S.H. review see page 4. the blackberry, black currant, cherry, herb and sweet ce- abv: 15% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $100 dar flavors are swamped in hard tannins. The structure is immaculate, though, and all signs point to successful Collier Falls 2009 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Antonio Patric 2009 Coombsville Vine- future development. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 86 Valley). You’ll love this if you like your Zins 94 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $75 sweet and intensely fruity. It shows flavors of chocolate- This is very dry, with flavors of blackberries, cherries, covered raisins, blackberry jam and savory spices, with currants and chocolate, plus complex notes of herbs, Charles Krug 2009 Vintage Selection high alcohol lending heat. Good with barbecue and beef spices and minerals. The tannins are a wonder—dusty 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Vin- stew. —S.H. and interesting. Really good to drink now, yet it should tage Selection has long been the winery’s age-worthy abv: 15.5% Price: $34 change gradually in the bottle over the next 10 years. 100% Cabernet. Although this has an alcohol content —S.H. that’s higher than in the past, it should still reward cel- Pessagno 2010 Idyll Times Vineyard Zin- abv: 14.7% Price: $65 laring. The wine is rich with a sweet blackberry flavor, 86 fandel (San Benito County). This strong, with lots of new French oak. The tannins are hard, rem- peppery Zinfandel is consistent with Pessagno’s past ef- Arger-Martucci 2007 Estate Cabernet iniscent of an older era of Napa Cabernet. Give it 5–6 forts with this bottling. It is very dry and rustic, yet it has 94 Sauvignon (Atlas Peak). A dramatic Caber- years, but anything longer than that and the fruit may be a certain briary, raisiny charm. —S.H. net that shows Atlas Peak intensity and age-worthiness, threatened. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $21 this is bone dry, with hard tannins and zesty acidity. The abv: 15.4% Price: $75

WineMag.com | 17 Happy Canyon Vineyard 2007 Barrack net. It’s quite a delicious mouthful of jammy blackber- and not likely to age, so decant it for a few hours before 92 Ten-Goal Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa ries, red currants, milk chocolate and cedar, but it wants service. —S.H. Ynez Valley). One of the best Cabs to hail from the some 5–6 years in the cellar. The grapes come from abv: 14.3% Price: $50 Happy Canyon region, this wine shows the promise of vineyards all over the valley. Cellar Selection. —S.H. this warmer area of the valley. It’s deliriously rich and abv: 14.6% Price: $59 Pedroncelli 2010 Three Vineyards Caber- delicious, offering wave after wave of raspberry and 88 net Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley). Smooth cherry pie filling, chocolate and sweet oak flavors. The Axios 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa and rich, this has pleasing flavors of blackberries, cur- acids and tannins make it a joy to drink now. —S.H. 89 Valley). Lush, soft and delicious, this has fla- rants, dried herbs and cedar that are marked by firm abv: 14.2% Price: $62 vors of chocolate, ripe crushed summer blackberries tannins. Dry and full-bodied, it’s a classic Cabernet to and a hint of dried currants. This richness is augment- drink now and over the next four years or so while it’s Steven Kent 2009 The Premier Cabernet ed by lots of smoky, sweet oak. It could develop in the still fresh and fruity. This bottling routinely earns Edi- 92 Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). For full re- bottle, but the fruit might fall out before the tannins tor’s Choice awards. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. view see page 7. Cellar Selection. soften. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $17 abv: 14.8% Price: $100 abv: 14.6% Price: $125 Stephanie 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Turnbull 2010 Estate Grown Cabernet Mi Sueño 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 88 (Napa Valley). Soft, ripe and rich, this is opu- 92 Sauvignon (Oakville). Rich and flashy in 89 (Napa Valley). Soft, rich and smooth, this has lent to the point of flamboyance. It explodes with black- the way of Oakville Cabernet, this shows ripe tannin upfront flavors of blackberry jam, black currants, black berry and cherry jam, currant, anise and mocha flavors structure and perfect acidity. The blackberry, black cur- licorice and dark chocolate, with a hint of raisin on the that are seemingly sweet on the finish. Dramatic, yes, rant and licorice flavors finish thoroughly dry, long and finish. Drink it over the next few years for maximum but made for drinking now. —S.H. classy. Drink now or age for a couple years. —S.H. freshness. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $50 abv: 14.8% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $65 Clos du Bois 2009 Sonoma Reserve Cab- Axios 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Renteria 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 ernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). One 91 Valley). This is made in the smooth, oaky and 89 (Napa Valley). Rich and full bodied, this is de- of the most pleasurable Clos du Bois Cabernets in years, rich style of the modern cult Cabernet. It offers lots of licious to drink now for its array of blackberries, cur- this is easy to enjoy now for its flavors of cherries, cur- ripe, jammy blackberries, plus notes of sweet, intense rants, dark chocolate and toast flavors. The tannins are rants, tobacco, spices and smoky oak. Editors’ Choice. black and red currants, dark chocolate tart, black lico- just a bit jagged, so give it a few hours in the decanter. —S.H. rice and smoky oak. The tannins are tough but struc- —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 tured, so give it six years in the cellar and see what abv: 14.2% Price: $32 happens.­ Cellar Selection. —S.H. Fleuron 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Pine abv: 14.6% Price: $125 Rodney Strong 2011 Cabernet Sauvi- 87 Mountain-Cloverdale Peak). A nice, easy 89 gnon (Alexander Valley). There are lots of Cabernet to drink now, this shows real class in its Boëté 2005 Saunders Vineyard Estate rich, attractive flavors of black currant, herb and dark smooth texture and flavors of blackberries, blueberries, 91 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Carmel Val- chocolate in this Cabernet, plus a deft touch of smoky cherries and chocolate, nicely accented by sweet, smoky ley). For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. oak. It feels just fine in the mouth, and it’s ready to drink oak. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $36 now. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $28 Cameron Hughes 2010 Lot 360 Cabernet La Honda Winery 2010 Salinian Block 91 Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). For full re- Cameron Hughes 2010 Lot 332 Cabernet 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Moun- view see page 8. 88 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Juicy, sweet and tains). Robust and flavorful, this offers plenty of black- abv: 14.4% Price: $26 fat in glycerine, this has complex flavors of blackberry berry jam flavor, with notes of salt and oak, plus power- and cherry pie filling. The tannins and acids give it a ful acidity. Doesn’t seem like an ager, so drink now with Martin Ray 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sau- fine, elegant structure. Drink now. —S.H. grilled meats. —S.H. 91 vignon (Diamond Mountain). For full re- abv: 14.5% Price: $22 abv: 13.7% Price: $34 view see page 8. abv: 14.6% Price: $75 Cameron Hughes 2010 Lot 338 Cabernet Louis M. Martini 2010 Cabernet Sauvi- 88 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Easy and gen- 87 gnon (Napa Valley). This shows rich black- Trefethen 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon tle in structure, this has lots of Napa Valley polish and berry, black currant, chocolate and cedar flavors that are 91 (Oak Knoll). For full review see page 8. flair. It shows delicious notes of blackberry, green olive, wrapped into smooth, fine tannins, with a long, distin- abv: 14.1% Price: $60 sweet oak and spice, wrapped into firm, refined tannins guished finish. It’s a little warm in alcohol, but altogeth- and brightened by crisp acidity. —S.H. er this is a fine Cabernet for drinking now. —S.H. Alma Sol 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.3% Price: $22 abv: 14.5% Price: $34 90 (Napa Valley). Paso Robles-based Alma Sol reaches into Napa Valley for its Cabernet, with good Martin Ray 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sau- Reynoso 2009 Estate Grown Cabernet results. The wine is dry, full-bodied and smooth, with 88 vignon (Napa Valley). This manages to com- 87 Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This pol- rich flavors of blackberries, currants, dark chocolate and bine instant drinkability with Napa complexity, resulting ished young wine shows the softness and slight herba- spices. Nice now, after a good decanting, and it should in a really nice wine. Although it’s not an ager, it rises to ceousness that mark many Alexander Valley Cabernets. develop bottle complexities over 5–6 years. —S.H. the occasion with sweetly ripe raspberries, cherries and With ripe blackberry, cherry pie, red currant and mocha abv: 14.2% Price: $45 blackberries, plush, polished tannins and a lovely coat- flavors, it’s a fine wine to drink now and over the next ing of smoky oak. —S.H. 4–5 years. —S.H. Cameron Hughes 2009 Lot 316 Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $30 90 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 9. Editors’ Choice. Martin Ray 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Five Rows 2011 Durant Ranch Vineyards abv: 14.5% Price: $20 88 (Santa Cruz Mountains). This dry, full-bod- 86 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). A sound ied wine has lots of rich, exuberant blackberry and black wine for everyday drinking, this has firm tannins and Damian Rae 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon currant flavors accented by smoky oak. It’s a little heavy, 90 (Napa Valley). This is a big, rich, fruity Caber-

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 blackberry, currant and cedar flavors, plus a touch of wine. It has blackberry, raisin, plum and sweet oak fla- Franc made in Lodi, this is a rare chance to see what spicy licorice on the finish. —S.H. vors, with a nice structure of acids and tannins. —S.H. it can be. This wine is imprinted with Michael David’s abv: 13.1% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 typical big, bold flavors. It’s an aromatic combination of perfume, cinnamon spice and toasty oak. The palate Lapis Luna 2007 Moon Eyes Cabernet Cambridge & Sunset 2010 Cabernet Sau- is dense and smoky, with strong raspberry and currant 86 Sauvignon (Lodi). A bright, perfumed Cab- 84 vignon (California). An everyday Cabernet, fruit. —V.B. ernet Sauvignon, this is rich, especially on the finish, this has blackberry, plum and oak flavors. It’s dry and abv: 15.2% Price: $35 with a restrained toasty oak character and balanced full-bodied, and it will satisfy red wine drinkers at par- fruit. —V.B. ties. —S.H. Bianchi 2008 Signature Selection Caber- abv: 14.1% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 86 net Franc (Paso Robles). Soft, sweet and a little hot, this has flavors of chocolate-covered raisin and Arrowood 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (So- Vivo Vino 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cal- black cherry jam. It’s an easy wine to drink now with a 85 noma County). Rich and substantial, this is 83 ifornia). Dry, tannic and rough in the mouth, nice grilled steak or juicy burger. —S.H. potent in blackberry, cassis and dark chocolate flavors. this offers pleasant blackberry, red currant, spice and abv: 14.5% Price: $19 High alcohol gives it a hot mouthfeel. It’s not really rep- cedar flavors. —S.H. resentative of the Arrowood name of old. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $12 Fenestra 2008 Ghielmetti Vineyard Cab- abv: 15.1% Price: $30 86 ernet Franc (Livermore Valley). Medium H & G 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alex- bodied, this wine has layers of dark red fruits, plus Ca’ Momi 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 82 ander Valley). Dry and tannic, this is a simple touches of earth and tobacco, especially on the finish. 85 (Napa Valley). Soft, fruity and tannic, this has wine to down with burgers, beef tacos and other casual —V.B. jammy blackberry, blueberry and currant flavors. It’s foods. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $27 ripe and tasty, but rustic, with some less-than-ripe mint abv: 13.5% Price: $14 flavors and edgy tannins. —S.H. Brushstroke 2010 Cabernet Franc (Mon- abv: 13.9% Price: $25 Hawkstone 2011 Connoisseur Series 85 terey County). This has lots of bright red- 82 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap Dis- cherry flavor, plus plenty of zingy Monterey acidity. Envolve 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (So- trict). This doesn’t show any particular Stags Leap char- The result is a clean, straightforward wine offering juicy 85 noma Valley). Heavy and soft, this is lacking in acter; it’s another dry, tannic and lean Cabernet, with drinking pleasure. —S.H. structure and vitality. It has some ripe flavors of black- cherry syrup flavors. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $17 berries, currants and spice. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Super Sonoman 2009 Cabernet Sau- MERLOT La Honda Winery 2008 Lonehawk Cab- vignon (Knights Valley). Notes of raisins, 82 Happy Canyon Vineyard 2007 Barrack ernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains). dried prunes and chocolate mark this dry, tannic Cab- 85 Brand Merlot (Santa Ynez Valley). Made Despite having rich blackberry, cherry and currant fla- ernet. It’s pretty acidic, with a sharp finish that contains 92 from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc vors, this feels brittle. The acidity is strong and the tan- heat from the high alcohol. Drink up. —S.H. grown in the warm Happy Canyon region of the val- nins come across as a bit jarring. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $80 ley, this shows the greatness of the 2007 vintage. It’s abv: 14.2% Price: $43 Insatiable 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon ready to drink, bearing soft, gentle tannins that frame Lawer Family 2010 Hooker Old Boys 80 (Lodi). This Lodi wine has a whirl of smoky, flavors of blackberry and cherry jam, chocolate, vanilla Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). There oaky flavors, plus a not entirely pleasant green tinge to and sweet, smoky oak. —S.H. 85 abv: 14.2% Price: $42 is lots of fruity, oaky richness in this Cabernet, and acid- its finish. —V.B. ity that is a bit aggressive. It shows opulent blackberry, abv: 13.8% Price: $12 Turnbull 2009 Fortuna Vineyard Merlot raspberry, currant, dark chocolate and buttered toast (Oakville). Rich and dry, with smooth tannins, flavors, which lead to a long, spicy finish. Drink up. 90 this has complex cherry, dark chocolate, red currant and —S.H. CABERNET FRANC licorice flavors. The tannins are unlikely to age out, so abv: 15.4% Price: $32 Arger-Martucci 2007 Estate Cabernet give it a good airing and drink now, with rich beef and Franc (Atlas Peak). One of the best Caber- Lawer Family 2009 Three Coins Cabernet 92 lamb dishes. —S.H. net Francs out there, this shows the imposing structure abv: 14.1% Price: $55 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is direct and 85 of a Cabernet Sauvignon, although it’s lighter in body, a bit hot in alcohol, with jammy berry, cherry, currant with rich, dense tannins, fine acids and flavors of cher- Silverado 2008 Mt George Vineyard Es- and oak flavors. It offers good Cabernet pleasure in an ries and red currants. Decant it, and drink now with tate Grown Merlot (Napa Valley). For full everyday sort of way. —S.H. 89 steak. —S.H. review see page 11. abv: 15.2% Price: $42 abv: 13.8% Price: $50 abv: 14.9% Price: $35 Liberty School 2010 Cabernet Sauvi- Boëté 2008 Saunders Vineyard Estate Charles Krug 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). gnon (Paso Robles). This is a fine Caber- 85 Grown Reserve Cabernet Franc (Carmel This is dry, full bodied and pretty tannic, with net to drink with burgers, Mexican food, beef stew or 92 88 Valley). For full review see page 6. deep flavors of berries, currants and dark chocolate. A skirt steak. Soft and sweet, it has flavors of blackberries abv: 14% Price: $40 bunch of other varieties were blended with the Merlot, and cherries, plus a just-right jacket of smoky oak and a including Zinfandel and Syrah, to make the wine more smooth, spicy finish. —S.H. Turnbull 2009 Leopoldina Cabernet complex. Drink now with a burger or a steak. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 88 Franc (Oakville). This is dry, full bodied and abv: 14.8% Price: $24 pretty tannic, with a sense of elegance, plus flavors Robert Hall 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon of sour cherry candy, red licorice, tobacco and sweet, Martin Ray 2009 Merlot (Diamond Moun- (Paso Robles). The grapes used for this wine 85 smoky cedar. —S.H. tain). A robust Merlot for drinking now, this were grown in warm parts of Paso Robles, so even 88 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 has ripe cherry and chocolate flavors, with a rich veneer though the vintage was cool overall, this is a very ripe Michael David 2010 Inkblot Cabernet 87 Franc (Lodi). As there is not a lot of Cabernet

WineMag.com | 19 of smoky oak. The notoriously hard Diamond Moun- McManis 2011 Merlot (California). Ripe Martin Ray 2009 Synthesis (Napa Valley). tain tannins have been wrestled into submission. —S.H. 84 and very dry, this has flavors of raisins, blackber- 93 For full review see page 5. abv: 14.4% Price: $45 ries and dark chocolate, with a hint of smoky oak that abv: 14.6% Price: $75 adds richness. —S.H. Stephanie 2008 Merlot (Napa Valley). abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Trefethen 2009 Dragon’s Tooth (Napa 88 Rich and dense, this has blackberry and black 93 Valley). For full review see page 6. cherry jam, mocha and spice flavors. It contains 16% Souverain 2010 Merlot (North Coast). abv: 14.1% Price: $75 Cabernet Sauvignon, which lends the wine weight and 83 This Merlot has small amounts of Cabernet body. While it’s technically dry, there’s a sweetness that Sauvignon, Syrah and Petite Sirah. It’s fairly tannic, with Cameron Hughes 2010 Lot 335 Meritage comes from the ripeness of fruit and the caramel flavor a trace of stewy greenness in the background. —V.B. 92 (Oakville). For full review see page 12. Best from the oak, which gives it a sugary, bacony taste. Deli- abv: 13.9% Price: $14 Buy. cious now and for a few years. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $14 abv: 14.8% Price: $40 Bianchi 2008 Signature Selection Merlot 82 (Paso Robles). Simple, direct and country- Boëté 2008 Cheval Rouge Reserve Cab- Happy Canyon Vineyard 2010 Merlot style, this is soft and a little overripe, with flavors of rai- 91 ernet Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc-Merlot 87 (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). A sin, milk chocolate and black raspberry jam. —S.H. (Carmel Valley). For full review see page 7. blend containing the major Bordeaux varieties, this has abv: 15% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $30 lots of acidity and tannins, plus flavors of sweet cherries, blackberries and pepper. Drink now with robust fare, Bogle 2010 Merlot (California). Dry, tart Charles Krug 2009 Family Reserve Gen- like Santa Maria barbecue. —S.H. 82 and simple, this has a flavor of sour cherry can- 91 erations (Napa Valley). The composition abv: 14.1% Price: $22 dy. A fine wine for pouring at big parties. —S.H. of this Bordeaux-style blend is mainly Cabernet Sau- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 vignon, with smaller amounts of Merlot and Caber- Robert Hall 2010 Merlot (Paso Robles). net Franc. It’s rich, with fine, strong Napa tannins and 87 Blended with a little Cabernet Franc and Petite Cambridge & Sunset 2011 Merlot (Cali- a smooth jacket of sweet, smoky oak. The blackberry Sirah, this is a soft, sweet, peppery Merlot, filled with 82 fornia). You won’t find much fruit in this Mer- and currant flavors are deep and impressive. Give it 6–8 luscious, warm-climate flavors of black cherries, rasp- lot, but you will find tons of white pepper. There is a years to mellow. Cellar Selection. —S.H. berries and chocolate. There’s a lot of sweet, smoky oak, flavor of sour cherry candy, and the palate is dry and abv: 15.4% Price: $50 too. Drink up. —S.H. austere. —S.H. Worthy 2008 Sophia’s Cuvee Red Wine abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 91 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 9. Ed- Cameron Hughes 2010 Lot 344 Merlot Frei Brothers 2010 Reserve Merlot (Dry itors’ Choice. 86 (Oakville). This is a little sharp, with some 82 Creek Valley). This lacks the smooth and sen- abv: 14% Price: $29 prickly heat, but dry, with rich tannins and deep black- sual mouthfeel that’s normal for Merlot. Instead, this is Andis 2010 Goedeck-Liu Vineyard Mer- cherry, plum, red currant, pepper and cedar flavors. sharp, with a green flavor. While it’s properly dry, it lacks itage (Sierra Foothills). This is a blend of Ready to drink. —S.H. richness. —S.H. 90 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, all grown in abv: 14.8% Price: $22 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 the Foothills. It’s tannic at first, with a mélange of clove Courtney Benham 2011 Merlot (Napa Tussock Jumper 2010 Merlot (Califor- and cinnamon spice, then blossoms into a lightly stated, 86 Valley). Soft and friendly, this has instantly 82 nia). A basic Merlot, this shows brisk, candied red-fruit-driven wine with big shoulders. A trace of cof- likeable cherry, cola, anise and sandalwood flavors. Per- cherry, raspberry and brown sugar flavors. —S.H. fee lingers in the background. —V.B. fect for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 13.9% Price: $32 abv: 14.2% Price: $20 Cameron Hughes 2010 Lot 337 Meritage Five Rows 2011 Durant Ranch Vineyards RED BLENDS 90 (Rutherford). For full review see page 9. Edi- 86 Merlot (California). Rich and dry, this has tors’ Choice. pleasant cherry, red currant, licorice and spice flavors, Arger-Martucci 2007 Estate Reserve abv: 14.7% Price: $18 with a touch of smoky oak. —S.H. 94 (Napa Valley). Arger-Martucci hits bigtime abv: 13.1% Price: $15 with this Cabernet Franc-based Bordeaux-style blend. Happy Canyon Vineyard 2009 Piocho It marches in a different direction from the soft cult 90 Reserve (Happy Canyon of Santa Barba- Huntington 2010 Cooney Vineyard Mer- style, showing brisk acidity, hard tannins and relative- ra). This is complex and rich in blackberry and cherry 86 lot (Alexander Valley). Rich and easy, this ly moderate alcohol. Yet there’s nothing light about the jam, dark chocolate, anise and sandalwood flavors. The has jammy raspberry, cherry, milk chocolate, anise and complex blackberry, cherry and currant flavors. Won- acid-­tannin structure is especially noteworthy, giving it sandalwood flavors. Earns extra points for the velvety derful to drink now, and it will reward aging over the a firm, elegant mouthfeel. Ready to drink now. —S.H. texture and smooth, spicy finish. —S.H. next 5–6 years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $36 abv: 14.8% Price: $25 abv: 13.9% Price: $45 Cameron Hughes 2010 Lot 325 Meritage Kenwood 2010 Merlot (Sonoma County). Les Belles Collines 2009 Les Sommets 89 (Atlas Peak). For full review see page 10. Edi- 85 Dry and full-bodied, this wine’s pleasant herb, 94 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4. tors’ Choice. cherry, raisin and spice flavors, show some elegance. abv: 14.4% Price: $87 abv: 13.8% Price: $16 —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Lineage 2009 Red (Livermore Valley). For Trione 2008 Geyserville Ranch (Alexan- 94 full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. 89 der Valley). This Cabernet Sauvignon-based Angeline 2011 Reserve Merlot (Sonoma abv: 14.8% Price: $145 Bordeaux-style blend is extraordinarily rich, with flavors 84 County). Simple and robust, dry and full-bod- of raspberry and cherry tart, milk chocolate, red lico- ied. A little on the thin side, but there are some decent Les Belles Collines 2009 White Label rice and sweet oak, plus soft, gentle tannins. It shows sour cherry candy and red currant flavors. —S.H. 93 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 5. a direct deliciousness that makes it easy to like. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $15 abv: 14.2% Price: $67 abv: 14.9% Price: $48

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 Robert Hall 2011 Rhône de Robles (Paso Lava Cap 2010 American River Red Cel- X 2010 Red X (California). Made from Syr- 88 Robles). A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault 86 ebrated Cuvée (El Dorado). This blend of 81 ah, Petite Sirah, Dolcetto and Malbec, this wine and Counoise, this is bone dry and brisk in acidity, with Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot, Zinfandel and Tempra- is bone dry and acidic yet tastes overripe. Although the complex flavors of mineral, herb, sour cherry candy, red nillo carries deep cassis and stewy leather flavors, and alcohol is refreshingly low, it has a raisiny flavor and bit- currant and white pepper. Although production was it’s all around full bodied and satisfying. Its tannins are ter raisin-skin-like tannins. —S.H. only 2,000 cases, this wine is worth the search. Editors’ definitely present, and the finish is marked by lingering abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Choice. —S.H. cola-like spice. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $18 abv: 14.7% Price: $18 OTHER RED WINES Stephanie 2008 Proprietary Red Wine Robert Hall 2010 Meritage (Paso Ro- Michael David 2010 Inkblot Tannat (Lodi). (Napa Valley). A Bordeaux-style blend that’s bles). With its ripe flavors of blackberry and 88 86 88 For full review see page 11. based mainly on Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, cherry jam, red currant, cocoa, anise and smoky oak, abv: 15.5% Price: $35 this is all about sweet fruit. It has flavors of cherry, red this demonstrates a certain degree of complexity. Sweet licorice, red currant jam and sweet oak, wrapped into a and simple, this is showing its best now, and it should Saint Gregory 2010 Pinot Meunier (Men- softly tannic mouthfeel. Drink now. —S.H. drink well for the next 2–3 years. —S.H. 87 docino). A soft and leathery Pinot Meunier, abv: 14.9% Price: $60 abv: 15% Price: $40 this grape is not something seen alone very often in Cal- ifornia, as it’s mostly blended with Chardonnay and Pi- Worthy 2009 Sophia’s Cuvee Red Wine Wattle Creek 2010 Kristine’s Cuvée (Yor- not Noir in sparkling wines. Straightforward in its dried (Napa Valley). This is harder than the 2008, kville Highlands). An herbal red blend of 88 86 cherry taste, but interesting and worth a try. —V.B. which was released at the same time, but it shows real Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Malbec, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Napa elegance. The tannic toughness tells you to decant this is earthy, focused and straightforward. —V.B. it for a few hours, which makes the blackberry and cas- abv: 14.4% Price: $22 Michael David 2010 Inkblot Petit Verdot sis flavors become more expressive. —S.H. (Lodi). This is smooth, round and Zinfandel- Bridlewood 2011 Blend 175 (Central 85 abv: 14.5% Price: $29 like in its fulsome toasty character and abundant choc- Coast). A blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, 85 olate and black fruit flavors. As it’s aged in 100% new B Side 2010 Red (Napa Valley). From its Viognier and Petite Sirah, this is dry, brisk and straight- French oak for 17 months, the oak looms large and lasts inky black color, you can tell that this is a big forward, with red currant and pepper flavors. Drink it 87 a long time. —V.B. wine, and one sip confirms that impression. This is dry, now with roasted or grilled meats and stews. —S.H. abv: 15.6% Price: $35 full bodied and tannic, with explosive blackberry and abv: 13% Price: $15 raisin flavors as well as an edge of crisped beef. It’s a Margerum 2010 Alamo Creek Vineyard Besitos NV Red (California). Sharp and little rustic, and the sweet fruit suggests pairing it with Grenache (San Luis Obispo County). This jammy, this has raspberry, peppermint and 85 barbecue and roasted meat. —S.H. 84 is a soft, gently sweet Grenache, with raspberry jam, white pepper flavors. The name means “little kisses” in abv: 14% Price: $30 toast and cinnamon spice flavors. Drink up. —S.H. Spanish. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $36 Martin Ray 2011 Red (California). For full abv: 13% Price: $15 87 review see page 11. Editors’ Choice. Bianchi 2009 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). Margerum 2010 M5 (Santa Barbara abv: 13.9% Price: $13 This is heavy, soft and overripe, with raisin and County). This dry, Syrah-based Rhône-style 81 84 Port-like flavors. —S.H. Montemaggiore 2009 Nobile Cabernet blend feels like a worthy effort, but the vintage had the abv: 14.8% Price: $22 87 Sauvignon-Syrah (Dry Creek Valley). final say, lending a vegetal note to the wine’s berry and Blackberry, tobacco, dark chocolate, currant and spice cherry flavors. Give it time in a decanter, as airing does flavors mark this dry, tannic blend. It has furry tannins help bring out richer notes of cola and licorice. —S.H. ROSÉS and a briary mouthfeel that make it somewhat rustic. abv: 14.1% Price: $28 Give it a long decant before drinking now. —S.H. Envolve 2011 Rosé (Sonoma Mountain). abv: 14.1% Price: $45 Hahn 2011 Nicky Hahn G-S-M (Central 85 A big, heavy rosé, this has an orange-pink col- 82 Coast). This is thin and acidic, with flavors of or and slightly sweet flavors of jammy raspberry, vanilla Clos du Bois 2009 Marlstone (Alexander sour cherry candy and spice. —S.H. and cream. A blend of Syrah and Grenache. —S.H. 86 Valley). Very ripe and extracted, this has flavors abv: 14.5% Price: $14 abv: 12.7% Price: $25 of blackberries and cherries that are a bit heavy-handed. There’s a lot of oak influence, too, which adds to the The Auctor 2010 Red (Paso Robles). A JCB 2011 No. 8 Pinot Noir Rosé (Russian heaviness. —S.H. 82 dry, edgy blend of Barbera, Grenache and sev- 85 River Valley). Definitely on the sweet side, abv: 14.5% Price: $50 eral other varieties, this is tannic and lacks richness. Pair this has jellied raspberry and vanilla bean flavors. Crisp it with a cheese and pepperoni pizza to coax out the acidity provides fortunate balance. —S.H. Envolve 2010 Puma Springs Vineyard fruit. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 86 (Dry Creek Valley). Rustic and dry, this has abv: 14.4% Price: $17 flavors of berries, currants, licorice and spices. Made from Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. —S.H. Apothic 2011 Winemaker’s Blend (Cali- CHARDONNAY abv: 14.3% Price: $50 81 fornia). Made from Zinfandel, Merlot, Syrah Williams Selyem 2010 Allen Vineyard and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine has simple flavors of 97 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For Ghost Pines 2010 Winemaker’s Blend pink bubblegum and white sugar. —S.H. full review see page 3. Editors’ Choice. 86 (Napa County-Sonoma County-San Joa- abv: 13% Price: $14 abv: 14.6% Price: $50 quin County). This unusual blend of multiple red va- rieties sure has plenty of personality, with strong white- Mirassou NV Sunset Red (California). Williams Selyem 2010 Drake Estate Vine- pepper, raisin and blackberry jam flavors, plus robust 81 Simple, soft and watery, this has a sweet rasp- 96 yard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). tannins and a very dry finish. It really takes over the pal- berry flavor. The blend is Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and For full review see page 3. ate, and needs to be paired with equally assertive food, Merlot. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $65 like barbecue. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $23

WineMag.com | 21 Williams Selyem 2010 Heintz Vineyard Pali 2011 Charm Acres Chardonnay (So- Schug 2011 Chardonnay (Carneros). 96 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For 90 noma Coast). There is lots to like in this Cha- 87 While this Chardonnay was aged in only 17% full review see page 4. blis-like Chardonnay. It’s dry, bright in acidity and min- new French oak barrels, the oak really dominates, bear- abv: 14.6% Price: $50 erally, with an undercurrent of citrus, Asian pear and ing aromas and flavors of buttered toast and butter- tropical fruit flavors. Oak plays a subtle but essential scotch. Underneath that veneer is a tart wine with fine Merry Edwards 2010 Olivet Lane Char- part in the wine’s richness. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. flavors of , oranges and pears, plus beautiful 92 donnay (Russian River Valley). This Char- abv: 14.1% Price: $21 acidity and a clean, minerally finish. —S.H. donnay shows the ripe fruit and tangy acidity derived abv: 14.5% Price: $28 from this cool-climate vineyard. It bears tart apricot, or- William Hill Estate 2010 Bench Blend ange and mineral flavors, balanced by oaky notes of va- 90 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review The Gardener 2011 Chardonnay (Rus- nilla and buttered toast. Drink now. —S.H. see page 10. 87 sian River Valley). New oak accounts for 30% abv: 14% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 of the barrels used, yet it really dominates, with a but- tered toast aroma and flavor. The malolactic fermenta- Sea Smoke 2010 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Navarro 2011 Table Wine Chardonnay tion brings notes of buttered popcorn, while the under- 92 Hills). An exotic, candied style of Chardonnay, 89 (Anderson Valley). This Anderson Valley lying notes of pineapples, Meyer lemons and limes are almost in a class by itself, this offers flavors including Chardonnay is creamy with a caramel-lemon imprint, rich and ripe. —S.H. pineapple, brown sugar, lemon drop, and vanilla yet textured and vibrant with bright acidity. A bite of abv: 13.5% Price: $30 cookie, honey, green apple butter and baked pear. Tex- lime marks the finish. Best Buy. —V.B. turally, the wine is dry, crisp in acidity and minerally, abv: 13.1% Price: $13 Aura 2011 Chardonnay (California). This with a tang to the finish. There’s nothing subtle here, so 86 shows lots of Chardonnay charm and luscious- pair this with rich foods, and don’t overchill the wine. Clos du Val 2011 Lone Cypress Ranch ness. The texture is creamy and buttery, the flavors are —S.H. 88 Chardonnay (Carneros). Leaner and earth- suggestive of ripe pineapples and oranges, plus layers of abv: 14.6% Price: $59 ier than many Chardonnays, with notes of green and vanilla and butterscotch are just right. —S.H. dried herbs alongside the citrus and tropical fruits. Oak abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Bouchaine 2010 Estate Vineyard Char- plays a modest role. All in all, this discrete wine is best 91 donnay (Carneros). This shows real Char- enjoyed now. —S.H. Epilogue 2010 Chardonnay (North donnay character, with a creamy texture housing flavors abv: 13.5% Price: $40 86 Coast). Simple and straightforward, this Char- of Meyer lemon tart, vanilla and buttered toast, bright- donnay has notes of vanilla, caramel and oak. A bite of ened with lively acidity. It’s great to see veteran Bou- JCB 2011 No. 81 Chardonnay (Sonoma sweet baked apple is most pronounced on the finish. chaine performing at such a high level. —S.H. 88 Coast). Rich and ripe, this wine has orange, —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $30 mango, apricot and vanilla flavors, accented by bright abv: 14.1% Price: $15 acidity. It offers immediate appeal to fans of the oak- Fleuron 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma driven Chardonnay style. —S.H. Hawkstone 2011 Barney’s Heritage Cu- 91 County-Lake County). This barrel-ferment- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 86 vée Chardonnay (Napa Valley). A fine ed Chardonnay seemingly tastes as sweet as a dessert, Chardonnay for drinking now, this will satisfy for its although it’s technically dry. With its pineapple and Kalaris 2011 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). creamy texture and tart flavors of buttered toast, orang- tangerine tart, crême brulée and Key lime pie flavors, 88 This boasts citrus fruit, lemongrass and butter- es and pears. —S.H. Chardonnay doesn’t get richer than this. Brisk, citrusy cream flavors that are brightened by zesty acidity. It’s abv: 13.5% Price: $29 acidity gives much needed balance. Editors’ Choice. clean and complex, and it’s a fine wine to drink with —S.H. shellfish in rich buttery sauces. —S.H. Jeff Gordon 2011 Chardonnay (Carne- abv: 13.9% Price: $24 abv: 14.4% Price: $55 86 ros). This follows the tried and true path of making Chardonnay with ripe fruit and plenty of JCB 2010 No. 33 Sonoma Collection Navarro 2010 Premiere Reserve Char- creamy oak. The flavors are of apricots, oranges, sour 91 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Elab- 88 donnay (Anderson Valley). An ultrazesty, lees and buttered toast. —S.H. orate and rich, this wine offers orange, nectarine, honey, lemony Chardonnay, this has razor-sharp acidity that abv: 14.5% Price: $45 vanilla, cream and butterscotch flavors, brightened by should mellow out when paired with the right foods, zesty acidity. —S.H. like seafood in a creamy sauce. —V.B. Robert Hall 2011 Chardonnay (Paso Ro- abv: 14.5% Price: $75 abv: 13.8% Price: $14 86 bles). Ripe and juicy, this bears orange, lime and tropical fruit flavors. It’s dry, but so fruity that it al- Pessagno 2010 Lucia Highlands Vine- Pessagno 2010 Intrinity Chardonnay most seems sweet. The acidity is strong and the alcohol 91 yard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia High- 88 (Santa Lucia Highlands). This best-of- is refreshingly modest. —S.H. lands). Rich and creamy, this has a smooth, buttery barrels­ Chardonnay is oaky, offering waves of butter- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 mouthfeel, carrying flavors of ripe peaches, pears and scotch and buttered toast that dominate the tart under- limes. Santa Lucia’s cool climate helps to bring this wine lying flavors of pineapple and lime. It’s certainly rich Smoking Loon 2011 Steelbird Unoaked a brisk cut of mouthwatering acidity. Production was and well-structured, but quite oaky. —S.H. 86 Chardonnay (California). For full review 784 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $45 see page 13. Best Buy. abv: 14.6% Price: $24 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Cameron Hughes 2010 Lot 350 Chardon- Navarro 2010 Chardonnay (Mendocino). 87 nay (Santa Maria Valley). For full review see Trefethen 2010 Chardonnay (Oak Knoll). 90 In the past, the winery made a Mendocino ap- page 11. Editors’ Choice. 86 This effort shows the dry earthy and herbal pellation Chardonnay from a mix of Anderson Valley abv: NA Price: $14 qualities that often mark Trefethen Chardonnays grown and Potter Valley fruit. But in 2010, all of the fruit is in this southerly district of Napa Valley. It has flavors of sourced from the Anderson Valley. This is fleshy, soft Lawer Family 2011 Hooker Breakaway tobacco, tropical fruit and oak, with lots of zesty acid- and lush, bearing grapefruit and fig flavors that are 87 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For ity. —S.H. wrapped in a tightly focused package with a bright fin- full review see page 11. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 ish. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $24 abv: 13.7% Price: $17

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 Cable Car 2011 Chardonnay (Lodi). A Bota Box 2011 Chardonnay (California). zesty acidity that gives brightness to the orange, pear, 85 Chardonnay of heightened acidity, this is fresh, 84 This delivers plenty of easy pineapple, orange peach and tropical fruit flavors. —S.H. light and banced, with tastes of lemon and pear. —V.B. and pear fruit flavors, with touches of vanilla and but- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 tercream. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $20/3 L Bogle 2011 Chardonnay (California). This Huntington 2011 Costello Vineyard Char- 82 has creamy flavors of vanilla, honey, lime and or- 85 donnay (Alexander Valley). Simple and di- Ca’ Momi 2011 Chardonnay (Napa Val- ange. —S.H. rect, this tastes like blend of apricots, pears and mangos, 84 ley). This Chardonnay has flavors of jammy abv: 13.5% Price: $10 with a gentle oak touch. It has pleasant acidity and nice tangerine, peach, tropical fruit and white sugar. —S.H. warmth from the alcohol. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $20 Laguna 2010 Laguna Ranch Vineyard abv: 14.4% Price: $18 82 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This Hahn 2011 SLH Estate Chardonnay (San- is so oaky you can hardly taste anything but the but- Lawer Family 2011 Duck Shack Chardon- 84 ta Lucia Highlands). Oaky and slightly sweet, terscotch, caramel and brown sugar flavors. Way down 85 nay (Russian River Valley). For full review this has vanilla, orange and oak flavors. It’s a clean wine, deep is a note of pineapple jam. —S.H. see page 12. but nothing beyond average. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $35 abv: 13.2% Price: $22 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Red Pony Ranch 2011 Chardonnay (San- Lawer Family 2011 Three Coins Char- La Honda Winery 2010 Chardonnay 82 ta Barbara County). Buttery, caramelized 85 donnay (Russian River Valley). Flavors of 84 (Santa Cruz Mountains). This has oak, green oak tones dominate the weak fruit flavors of orange and ripe tropical fruit, orange and smoky, sweet oak influ- apple, lime and mineral flavors that finish dry and acid- apricot. A simple and creamy Chardonnay. —S.H. ence this slightly sweet Chardonnay. It’s made in the ic. A sound wine that lacks richness. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $13 popular style, with brisk Russian River acidity that pro- abv: 12.9% Price: $24 vides mouthwatering balance. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $26 Peirano 2011 Heritage Collection Char- CHENIN BLANC 84 donnay (Lodi). A Chardonnay with noticeable Mi Sueño 2009 Chardonnay (Sonoma barrel influence, this is creamy and thick, with a baked Margerum 2011 Chenin Blanc (Santa 85 Mountain). The oak barrel influence comes apple flavor. Pair it with chicken in cream sauce or lob- 89 Ynez Valley). Clean and crisp, this has inter- across quite strong in this Chardonnay. The wine itself, ster and butter. —V.B. esting flavors suggestive of green apples, lemons, limes made from fruit sourced from this mountain appellation abv: 13.8% Price: $12 and spices. Although it’s dry, the alcohol level is modest. in the central part of Sonoma County, is rich in tropical Editors’ Choice. —S.H. fruit and pear flavors, with zesty acidity. —S.H. Whiplash 2010 Chardonnay (Califor- abv: 12.1% Price: $21 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 84 nia). Tasting on the sweet side, this has notes of brown sugar, honey and vanilla. It’s clean and vibrant Clarksburg Wine Company 2010 Viog- Mi Sueño 2009 Chardonnay (Russian in acidity, with rich flavors of pineapple jam and ripe 87 nier Chenin Blanc (Clarksburg). A Chenin 85 River Valley). Oak is the strongest element orange. —S.H. with 15% Viognier in the mix, this bottling has more in this Chardonnay, providing dominant buttered toast, abv: 14.5% Price: $11 depth and fullness than many of Clarksburg’s other butterscotch and caramel aromas and flavors. The wine Chenins. It’s creamy yet retains plenty of acidity, it has a also has great acidity and ripe flavors of green apple, Harlow Ridge 2010 Chardonnay (Lodi). tropical fruit imprint and even a touch of grapefruit. It pear and kiwi. —S.H. 83 Direct and fruity, this Chardonnay is loaded will stand up to all kinds of spicy foods. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 with lemon. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 abv: 12.5% Price: $10 Mi Sueño 2009 Chardonnay (Carneros). Clarksburg Wine Company 2010 VS 85 The oak is a bit heavy-handed in its buttered Parkers Estate 2011 Blue Ash Road 87 Chenin Blanc (Clarksburg). VS stands for toast and caramel flavors. Underneath that veneer is a 83 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). A Char- “Vouvray Style,” a nod to the Loire Valley. Notes of cit- perfectly nice Chardonnay that has clean, tart citrus, donnay to drink or serve at parties, this tastes slightly rus and mineral stand out first, seeming almost tart, like pear and green apple flavors. —S.H. sweet, with orange, apricot and vanilla flavors. It also a squeeze of lemon, followed by a touch of almond. Pair abv: 14.5% Price: $38 bears some creamy, oaky notes and lots of tangy acid- this with seafood, especially scallops or raw oysters. ity. —S.H. —V.B. Pedroncelli 2011 Vintage Selection Char- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 11.5% Price: $24 85 donnay (Dry Creek Valley). Creamy and buttery, this Chardonnay provides satisfying vanilla Pepi 2011 Chardonnay (California). A Clarksburg Wine Company 2010 Chenin and tropical fruit flavors that finish on a honeyed note. 83 simple, everyday Chardonnay that’s refreshingly 86 Blanc (Clarksburg). Clarksburg is becoming —S.H. crisp, with sweet lime, orange, pear and vanilla flavors. a haven for Chenin Blanc in California. This bottling, abv: 14.2% Price: $13 —S.H. using fruit sourced from several vineyards in the area, abv: 13% Price: $10 is balanced with just a trace of sweetness in the back- RustRidge 2010 Estate Bottled Chardon- ground (1% residual sugar). This is crisp, straightfor- nay (Napa Valley). This shows jelly-like fla- Super Sonoman 2010 Chardonnay 85 ward and blessed with notes of pear and lime. Drink vors of orange and pear, with some earthy tones. The (Green Valley). The winemaker aged this 83 it cold. —V.B. mouthfeel is soft and there’s a bounty of oak in the form wine for 20 months in 100% new French oak, result- abv: 12.5% Price: $16 of buttered toast and caramel notes. —S.H. ing in an oak-dominated product that bears notes of abv: NA Price: $30 buttered toast, butterscotch and caramel. Green ap- ple and pear flavors can be found, but they’re basically SAUVIGNON BLANC Souverain 2010 Chardonnay (North swamped. —S.H. 85 Coast). This is weighty, creamy and medium abv: 14.2% Price: $45 Grgich Hills 2011 Essence Estate Grown to full in body. It has plenty of lime and pear flavors, 93 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). For full plus slight brown sugar and vanilla notes. —V.B. Tin Roof 2011 Chardonnay (California). review see page 5. abv: 13.9% Price: $14 83 Made in the popular style, this Chardonnay has abv: 14.3% Price: $48

WineMag.com | 23 Margerum 2011 D Sauvignon Blanc ity and streamlined flavors of green grass, Meyer lem- Cambridge & Sunset 2011 Sauvignon 92 (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Dry on and grapefruit mark this dry Sauvignon Blanc. It’s a 81 Blanc (California). White pepper dominates and complex, this has flavors of Meyer lemon, fig, green versatile wine to drink now with everything from Asian-­ the smell, and the flavor is primarily of candied lemons. grass, mineral, honey, wildflower, white pepper and a fusion fare to a simple roasted chicken. —S.H. —S.H. touch of smoky oak. The acidity is wonderful, providing abv: 13.6% Price: $27 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 a kick of lime-like tartness. Terrific now as an apéritif, and with a wide range of fare, especially modern Asian Worthy 2009 Five Clones Sauvignon fusion. —S.H. 87 Blanc (Napa Valley). This shows its age a PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO bit, as the citrus, lemongrass and tropical flavors pick abv: 12.1% Price: $36 Pepi 2011 Pinot Grigio (California). For up a dried fruit edge. But it’s clean and vibrant, offering full review see page 12. Best Buy. Huntington 2011 Mauritson Vineyard plenty of Napa complexity. Drink now. —S.H. 89 abv: 12.5% Price: $10 90 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). For abv: 14.2% Price: $27 full review see page 9. Editors’ Choice. Margerum 2011 Klickitat Pinot Gris Envolve 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma abv: 14.1% Price: $18 (America). Made from fruit grown in Wash- Valley). This shows a tart, green gooseberry 88 86 ington State but vinified in California, this is a delicious, Margerum 2011 Sybarite Sauvignon flavor that is similar to New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. lively white wine. It’s dry and brisk in acidity, with or- Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Other notes include tropical fruit, orange and honey. 90 ange, lime, Asian pear, honeysuckle and white pepper A Sauvignon Blanc for drinking now, this has a pleasing- Unoaked, with a splash of , this has commend- flavors.Editors’ Choice. —S.H. able dryness and acidity. —S.H. ly tart yet creamy mouthfeel, with rich, complex flavors abv: 11.2% Price: $18 of tropical fruit, lemongrass, peach and vanilla that fin- abv: 14.4% Price: $20 ish in a swirl of peppery spice. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Bianchi 2011 Signature Selection Los Al- Robert Hall 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Paso abv: 11.2% Price: $21 amos Vineyard Pinot Grigio (Santa Bar- Robles). The clean, brisk mouthfeel gives this 84 86 bara County). With its sugary flavors of oranges, gua- Tangent 2011 Paragon Vineyard Sauvi- slightly oaked Sauvignon Blanc instant likeability. It’s vas and vanilla, this will appeal to those who favor sweet gnon Blanc (Edna Valley). For full review dry with a rich streak of honey that sweetens the citrus, 90 white wines. Brisk, clean acidity fortunately provides see page 12. Best Buy. pear and tropical fruit flavors. Pair this with Asian fare, balance. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 ham or a green salad with grapefruit sections. Editors’ abv: 13.9% Price: $15 Choice. —S.H. Morgan 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Mon- abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Middle Sister NV Drama Queen Pinot Gri- terey). This is a real New Zealand-style Sauvi- 89 gio (California). Crisp, citrusy acidity gives a gnon Blanc. It’s dry and tart, with rich gooseberry, lime, Tin Roof 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Califor- 84 sense of balance to the honey-sweet lime, lemon and green apple, Asian pear, vanilla and white pepper fla- nia). For full review see page 13. Best Buy. 86 pear flavors. It’s an easy wine to drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 vors. A touch of oak brings a pleasant, buttery toasti- abv: 12.5% Price: $11 ness. The grapes come from the cool Arroyo Seco AVA Souverain 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (North and the warm San Lucas AVA, a brilliant blending deci- Robert Mondavi 2011 Private Selection Coast). This has grassy tones and tropical fruit sion that makes this wine especially balanced. Editors’ 85 Pinot Grigio (Central Coast). This shows flavors that’ll pair with oysters and other shellfish just 84 Choice. —S.H. brisk, mouthwatering Central Coast acidity, which fine. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 brightens the slightly sweet lemon and lime flavors. abv: 13.9% Price: $13 —S.H. Black Stallion 2011 Sauvignon Blanc abv: 12.5% Price: $11 88 (Napa Valley). A touch of honey brings a Cable Car 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Men- docino County). A simple Sauvignon Blanc sense of sweetness to the flavors of lemon candy, pine- 84 Beautiful Dream 2011 Pinot Grigio (Cali- that tastes of cantaloupe. Serve it at a big outdoor party apple juice, green melon and vanilla. Tart acidity pro- fornia). This simple, slightly sweet Pinot Grigio or any other time the focus is not entirely on the wine. 82 vides fine vitality and balance. This shows real Napa Val- has some veggie-like underripeness, but offers enough —V.B. ley finesse. —S.H. orange and peach fruit to satisfy. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $12 abv: 14.1% Price: $26 abv: 13.8% Price: $10 Pepi 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (California). Insatiable 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Men- 88 For full review see page 12. Best Buy. 84 docino County). Slight in aroma at first, this abv: 13% Price: $10 wine slowly reveals a waft of lemon. It’s light in flavor, and it delivers crispness, with a hint of oak on the fin- Morgan 2011 Double L Vineyard Ries- Paul Dolan 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Potter ish. —V.B. 88 ling (Santa Lucia Highlands). This is fairly 87 Valley). This is a crisp, medium-bodied wine, abv: 13.6% Price: $11 sweet, with flavors of honey, apricots, oranges, nectar- with pleasant aromas of apricot, lemon and pineapple. ines, white flowers, vanilla and minerals. Brisk acidity A smidgen of almond nuttiness marks the finish. —V.B. Robert Mondavi 2011 Private Selection provides the perfect balance to the sweetness. Lovely abv: 13.5% Price: $18 84 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Coast). Simple, now with Asian fusion fare. —S.H. crisp and clean, this tastes like grapefruit juice, and a abv: 10.5% Price: $22 Rodney Strong 2011 Charlotte’s Home squeeze of lime, plus hints of honey and vanilla. —S.H. 87 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Northern So- abv: 12.5% Price: $11 Madroña 2010 Dry Riesling (El Dorado). noma). With just a tiny touch of oak, this wine’s fruit 87 This intensely aromatic Riesling bursts with and acidity star. It has flavors of Meyer lemon, lime, Bianchi 2011 Signature Selection Sauvi- cheese rind and apple cider. Elegant, fruity and dry. Pair green apple, vanilla, honey and white pepper, bright- 83 gnon Blanc (Monterey). This is high in al- it with Thai food. —V.B. ened by zesty acidity. A nice cocktail wine to drink now. cohol, which gives it a jalapeño-like burn. It’s an easy, abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Editors’ Choice. —S.H. simple wine to drink now, offering white sugar, orange, abv: 13.5% Price: $15 lime, green melon and vanilla flavors. —S.H. The White Knight 2011 Riesling (Lake abv: 15% Price: $13 86 County). This is a sweet wine with flavors of Worthy 2010 Five Clones Sauvignon 87 Blanc (Napa Valley). Mouthwatering acid-

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 white sugar, orange, honey and vanilla, all brightened ity comes to the rescue, providing a clean, brisk close. Ca’ Momi NV Ca’ Rosa (California). This by crisp acidity. —S.H. —S.H. 84 blush is made from Chardon- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 nay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Moscato, offer- ing simple, slightly sweet flavors of raspberries, oranges, Robert Mondavi 2011 Private Selection The White Knight 2011 Moscato (Califor- vanilla, smoke and yeast. The bubbles scour the palate 84 Riesling (Central Coast). The Moscato-sip- 85 nia). This is a bit off-dry, with a honeyed edge, a bit. —S.H. ping crowd will like this wine. It’s crisp and off-dry, with but there’s lots of zesty acidity for balance. It has easy- abv: 11.5% Price: $18 honey, tangerine and vanilla flavors, plus zesty acidity. to-drink flavors of oranges, peaches and vanilla. —S.H. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Moreno BHLV NV Rosé (California). An abv: 12.5% Price: $11 84 easy-drinking pink wine, this has sweet flavors Bianchi 2011 Moscato (Paso Robles). of raspberry and cherry soda, honey and vanilla. —S.H. 82 There’s not much going on with this soft Mos­ abv: 11% Price: $30 WHITE BLENDS cato except for white sugar and vanilla bean flavors, and Montemaggiore 2011 3 Divas (Russian only hints of oranges and tropical fruits. —S.H. 89 River Valley). A Russian River interpretation abv: 11.5% Price: $15 DESSERT WINES of a Rhône blend, this is made from Viognier, Marsanne Dolce 2007 Late Harvest Wine (Napa Val- and Roussanne. It’s dry and marked by zesty acidity and 96 ley). For full review see page 3. just a hint of oak. The pineapple, lime, pear, peach and SPARKLING WINES abv: 13.5% Price: $85/375 ml white pepper flavors are rich. This is a genuinely food- J Vineyards & Winery 2003 Late Dis- friendly wine. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. gorged Brut (Russian River Valley). For Williams Selyem 2006 Mistral Vineyard abv: 14.1% Price: $25 91 full review see page 8. 93 Port (Central Coast). For full review see page 6. Pepi 2011 Chenin Blanc-Viognier (Cali- abv: 12.5% Price: $90 abv: 20% Price: $40/375 ml 86 fornia). For full review see page 13. Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $10 Scharffenberger NV Brut Excellence 90 (Mendocino County). A blend of two-thirds Bouchaine 2010 Bouche d’Or Chardon- nay (Carneros). One of the few dessert wines Derby 2010 Fifteen 10 White (Paso Ro- Chardonnay and one-third Pinot Noir, this emits an in- 87 in California made from Chardonnay in California, this 85 bles). Made from Roussanne, Viognier and viting whiff of caramel apple. On the palate, the frothy other Rhône varieties, this blend is dry, soft and heavy. mousse is dry and balanced. —V.B. is very sweet, with a ton of residual sugar and a dominat- But it is flavorful, offering waves of apricots, peaches abv: 12% Price: $20 ing apricot-honey note. —S.H. and coconut-tinged macaroons. —S.H. abv: 10.8% Price: $30/500 ml abv: 13.2% Price: $24 Scharffenberger NV Brut Rosé Excel- lence (Mendocino County). A blend of 54% Madroña 2008 Late-Harvest Riesling (El 90 Dorado). This tastes of dried apple and pear, X 2011 White X (California). There are lots Pinot Noir and 46% Chardonnay, this sings a strawber- 87 drizzled with honey. It has 10.4% residual sugar, prov- 85 of orange, pineapple, Meyer lemon, lime, hon- ry-tinged note on the palate. It’s enveloped by flowery ing to have the right level of sweetness without being ey and spice flavors in this blend of Chardonnay, Sau- aromas of rose perfume. It’s round and easy to drink, cloying. This is a fine choice to pair with apple- or pear- vignon Blanc, Arneis and Gewürztraminer. It’s brisk in and the finish is quick but satisfying. —V.B. based . —V.B. acidity and a little sweet. Try pairing it with Chinese, abv: 12% Price: $23 Vietnamese and Thai foods. —S.H. abv: 11.5% Price: $24/375 ml abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Allure NV Bubbly Moscato (California). Robert Hall 2011 Margaret’s Vineyard An easy to like wine, this shows Moscato’s or- 87 Orange Muscat (Paso Robles). Let’s call ange fruit flavors, with the scouring carbonation of soda. 86 OTHER WHITE WINES this a dessert wine, but you could easily serve it with a It’s very sweet, clean and appealing, and with only 10% weekend brunch of scrambled eggs and smoked trout Tangent 2011 Paragon Vineyard Gre- alcohol by volume, it’s the perfect beach wine. —S.H. or salmon. It’s sweet in honey, tangerines and vanilla, 91 nache Blanc (Edna Valley). Tangent’s white abv: 10% Price: $15/375 ml wines, which are unoaked, get better each vintage. This brightened by zesty acidity. It would also be lovely as an afternoon apéritif. —S.H. Grenache Blanc is exquisitely sculpted with sharp acids Allure NV Bubbly Pink Moscato (Califor- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 and pinpointed minerals, and offers orange, melon and 87 nia). Allure is a line of carbonated sparkling vanilla-honey flavors. A delight to drink, at a great price. wines from Bronco Wine Company. This is bubbly and Robert Hall 2008 Vintage Port (Paso Ro- Editors’ Choice. —S.H. crisp, with sweet raspberry, cream and vanilla flavors. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 85 bles). Made from traditional Port varieties, this —S.H. wine is very sweet, and unfortunately there’s not a lot abv: NA Price: $15/375 ml Highway 128 2011 Gewürztraminer going on beyond that. The blackberry and chocolate fla- (Mendocino). A spicy wine with crisp acidity vors need a lot more concentration to stand up to the 87 Ca’ Momi NV Ca’ Secco (California). With and ample texture, this Alsace-style white would stand residual sugar. —S.H. its slightly sweet orange, pear, green apple, up to spice-driven noodles. —V.B. 85 abv: 20.5% Price: $36 honeysuckle and vanilla flavors, this will appeal to the abv: 13% Price: $16 Moscato-sipping crowd. The bubbles make for easy fun. Lawer Family 2011 Three Coins Betsy’s A blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat, Ries- OREGON 86 Vineyard Viognier (Knights Valley). For ling and Gewürztraminer. —S.H. full review see page 12. abv: 11.5% Price: $18 CHARDONNAY abv: 14.3% Price: $26 Moreno BHLV NV Brut (California). The Bergström 2010 Sigrid Chardonnay (Wil- Robert Hall 2011 Viognier (Paso Robles). 85 bottle looks like it’s wrapped in leopard fur. The 95 lamette Valley). Bergström’s Sigrid is one of 86 There’s ample acidity and just a touch of oak on wine is off-dry, clean and simple, with crisp flavors of the finest Chardonnays made in Oregon. Racy and re- this Viognier, which is rich in orange, peach and lime raspberries, strawberries, honey and vanilla. —S.H. fined, it shows Burgundian finesse, toast and acidity. As flavors. It finishes with some sweetness, but the acid- abv: 11% Price: $30 in other top tier wines from the Northwest, the fruit has

WineMag.com | 25 a certain vibrancy that shouts “New World.” Peach, ap- Anam Cara 2011 Nicholas Estate Char- ple and pear flavors abound. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 87 donnay (Chehalem Mountains). This is the abv: 14.1% Price: $80 first Chardonnay release from Anam Cara, estate grown Erath 2011 Pinot Blanc (Oregon). This has from young vines, and softened by secondary fermenta- 90 a creamy consistency, and flavors of lemon cus- Ponzi 2010 Aurora Chardonnay (Willa- tion. The flavors suggest almond and butter, light citrus, tard and vanilla-cream. There is a dash of baking spices 94 mette Valley). For full review see page 5. Edi- a whiff of toast and a taste of cracker. It’s smooth, with a as well, but the fruit flavors are front and center. Best tors’ Choice. lemony finish. —P.G. Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $60 abv: 13.5% Price: $26 abv: 13% Price: $14

Ponzi 2010 Avellana Chardonnay (Willa- Foris 2010 Chardonnay (Rogue Valley). Adelsheim 2011 Bryan Creek Vineyard 92 mette Valley). For full review see page 7. 87 Clean and fresh, this value-priced southern Or- 89 Pinot Blanc (Chehalem Mountains). abv: 13.4% Price: $60 egon Chardonnay offers balanced, elegant flavors of Adelsheim does a superlative job keeping stylistic con- flower and fruit. Notes of apple and pear are front and sistency. This high acid, lemony Pinot Blanc has a fine Adelsheim 2011 Chardonnay (Willamette center, with hints of white peach and cinnamon. Best mineral underpinning and a fresh, clean attack. —P.G. 91 Valley). Full and round, with snappy acidity Buy. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $22 that brings life and lift to the luscious fruit, this delicious abv: 13.6% Price: $12 wine is aimed at those who like a festival of green and Foris 2011 Pinot Blanc (Rogue Valley). yellow fruits in their glass. It has fine texture and length, Melrose Vineyards 2011 Estate Grown 88 Aromatic and bracing, this is a fruity mix of with a defining mineral streak that elevates this well be- 87 Chardonnay (Umpqua Valley). A clean aro- lime, nectarine and pink grapefruit. Foris wines are no- yond just fruity. It has medium-term aging potential as ma of apple that’s detailed with light notes of fresh herb table for their freshness, purity of fruit and overall im- well. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. and barrel toast introduce this well-structured Char- maculate winemaking. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $22 donnay. It’s a solid effort, buoyed by good natural acid- abv: 13.3% Price: $14 ity. —P.G. Chehalem 2009 Ian’s Reserve Chardon- abv: 14.1% Price: $24 Erath 2011 Quail Run Pinot Blanc (South- 91 nay (Dundee Hills). Bright and spicy, this 87 ern Oregon). Some extra barrel time and wine shows generous but sensitive barrel use. The Deer Creek Vineyards 2011 Private Re- single vineyard status separate this wine from Erath’s ripe and juicy fruit is accented by streaks of nut oil and 82 serve Chardonnay (Rogue Valley). Mar- regular bottling. This has narrow flavors of green apple buttered popcorn. The finish carries a whiff of diesel. ginally better than the regular Chardonnay, this offers and white peach, not showing much new oak influence. —P.G. thin flavors of sour apple in a wash of acidity. —P.G. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $36 abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $22

Chehalem 2010 INOX Chardonnay (Wil- Deer Creek Vineyards 2011 Chardonnay Chehalem 2011 Stoller Vineyards Pinot 90 lamette Valley). This unoaked, tank-ferment- 81 (Rogue Valley). Any aroma is virtually unde- 85 Blanc (Dundee Hills). Tart and dry, this has a ed, no-malolactic style delivers flavors as crisp and re- tectable. The palate is thin and sour, with little in the broad flavor that does not express much speci- freshing as a clear mountain stream. Steely and miner- way of fruit. —P.G. ficity, with some notes of caramel and butter. Not yet al-driven, its apple and pear flavors carry just a tongue- abv: 13% Price: $20 knit together, this could improve significantly with fur- tickling hint of butter. —P.G. ther bottle age. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $19 VIOGNIER abv: 13% Price: $28 Chehalem 2011 INOX Chardonnay (Wil- Cowhorn 2011 Viognier (Applegate Val- lamette Valley). Surprisingly soft, with an 88 ley). Viognier is clearly a strong suit at Cow- PINOT GRIS easy-drinking roundness to the midpalate, this is a bit of 93 horn, a biodynamic vineyard and winery in the Apple- a butter cookie Chardonnay despite the INOX (stainless Adelsheim 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette gate Valley of southern Oregon. The aromatic nose is steel) moniker. The pretty fruit is the highlight. —P.G. 91 Valley). Bright and spicy, this has flavors of wreathed in seductive scents of flower and fruit. Flavors abv: 13.4% Price: $19 melon and pear. Balanced throughout, it finishes with are a mix of citrus and stone fruits, with a taste of honey a lightly toasty accent. Superb winemaking shines here. J. Scott Cellars 2011 Chardonnay (Rogue that brings added depth, but not sweetness. Editors’ Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 88 Valley). Sweet graham cracker abounds, Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $19 wrapped around a tart, lightly spicy note of apple. It’s abv: 13% Price: $30 an interesting combination, a bit unusual, but it works. Carabella 2011 Estate Pinot Gris (Che- Merrill Cellars 2010 Viognier (Oregon). —P.G. 91 halem Mountains). Hibiscus and honeysuck- In contrast to the Artist Series Viognier, this is abv: 14.3% Price: $20 87 le scents highlight the bouquet, while the palate bears made entirely in stainless steel. It’s quite soft, with ripe flavors of pears and spices, buoyed by natural acidity. Stoller 2010 Reserve Chardonnay fruit flavors of peaches and apricots. There’s a hint of Aging in 30% (neutral) barrels puts some extra flesh on 88 (Dundee Hills). This barrel-fermented wine vanilla spice as well. —P.G. its bones. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. reflects the modest ripeness that marked the 2010 vin- abv: 14.1% Price: $29 abv: 13% Price: $17 tage. Scents of almond paste, orange peel, citrus, melon Merrill Cellars 2011 Viognier (Oregon). and pear intertwine, and the wine’s flavors carry light Spindrift Cellars 2011 Pinot Gris (Willa- This young Artist Series Viognier spent seven suggestions of them all, along with a touch of caramel. 86 91 mette Valley). For full review see page 8. Edi- months in once-used American oak barrels. The im- It’s drinking well right now, so why wait? —P.G. tors’ Choice. pression is of citrus, with a touch of sweetness and heavy abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 13% Price: $16 barrel influence. There’s a slightly burnt flavor, a hint of Westrey 2010 Reserve Chardonnay (Wil- alcohol heat and a biting finish. —P.G. Eight Bells 2011 Ravenna White (Or- 88 lamette Valley). This is a soft, broadly fruity abv: 13.7% Price: $19 90 egon). This is a first-rate Oregon Pinot Gris Chardonnay, with near-tropical ripeness. Banana and made with fruit sourced from the Methven Vineyard. papaya flavors dominate, accented by pretty baking Crisp and steely, it’s a mix of cucumber and honeydew spices and a touch of mineral. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 melon fruit, with bracing acidity and excellent length. clean and crisp pear flavors, along with notes of jicama, Chehalem 2011 Ridgecrest Vineyards Editors’ Choice. —P.G. green apple and lemon rind. It offers good detail in an 87 Wind Ridge Block Riesling (Ribbon abv: 13.1% Price: $16 elegant, unassuming style. —P.G. Ridge). Tart and tightly focused, this single-block ex- abv: 13.2% Price: $16 pression is pure green-apple fruit and acid. —P.G. Westrey 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette Val- abv: 10% Price: $28 90 ley). Tart and tangy, with cleansing acidity, this Abiqua Wind 2011 Caleb Knorr Pinot is a Pinot Gris ready for fresh shellfish, oysters, and 86 Gris (Willamette Valley). Fruity and tasting mussels. The lemony fruit is marked by a touch of pine- of lemon, melon and pineapple, this clean and fresh Pi- SAUVIGNON BLANC apple, showing good focus, concentration and length. not Gris offers fair value for the price. It tastes slightly J. Scott Cellars 2011 Sauvignon Blanc Editors’ Choice. —P.G. off dry. —P.G. (Rogue Valley). Crisp and glossy, this refresh- abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 90 ing, stainless-steel Sauvignon Blanc has the appropri- Chehalem 2010 Reserve Pinot Gris (Wil- Winter’s Hill 2011 Estate Pinot Gris ate varietal flavors of fresh herb, sweet grass, lime and 89 lamette Valley). This delivers a bit of extra 86 (Dundee Hills). This has lemony and slightly grapefruit. The flavors of citrus and herb are in perfect grip and weight compared to the widely-available Three bitter citrus-skin flavors that are made for fresh seafood balance and complement each other perfectly. —P.G. Vineyard bottling. Pear and peach fruit flavors are light- and shellfish. Notes of tart lemon and green pineapple abv: 13.8% Price: $17 ly toasty, leading into a full-flavored midpalate and a are matched by the substantial acids. —P.G. medium-long finish. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $16 Kandarian Wine Cellars 2011 Blue Eye abv: 14.1% Price: $28 86 Sauvignon Blanc (Willamette Valley). This Deer Creek Vineyards 2011 Pinot Gris has pungent aromatics of petrol and grass, and the fla- Foris 2011 Pinot Gris (Rogue Valley). Al- 83 (Rogue Valley). This seems to have some re- vors follow. It’s a reasonable style for the Sauvignon 89 though the 2011 vintage was difficult, Foris did sidual sugar, as there is a grainy, sugary aspect to the Blanc grape, but it likely will not appeal to all palates. particularly well with this lightly spicy, fruit-laden Pinot light pear and melon flavors. It doesn’t quite come to- —P.G. Gris. True varietal flavors of pear and apple are perfect- gether. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $20 ly set against vivid acidity. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13.6% Price: $14 Kandarian Wine Cellars 2010 Croft Vine- 85 yards Sauvignon Blanc (Willamette Val- Redhawk 2011 Pinot Gris (Eola-Amity RIESLING ley). A gold-hued, oaky wine, this is well along the ag- Hills). This is appealing for its flavors of fresh- ing curve, but suitable for near-term drinking. Think of 89 Chehalem 2011 Corral Creek Riesling sliced Bosch pear, plus a pear-like graininess on the pal- it as Sauvignon Blanc made in an old-fashioned Char- (Chehalem Mountains). Due to extraordi- ate. It has some residual sugar, just enough to round out 90 donnay style. —P.G. narily sharp acidity in 2011, this tastes quite dry despite the acids, and overall it’s a nicely balanced wine drinking abv: 13.5% Price: $25 very well right now. Best Buy. —P.G. residual sugar of 1.9%. A green berry flavor is matched abv: 13% Price: $14 to elements of mineral and fruit skin, lending length and texture to the wine. —P.G. WHITE BLENDS Bell 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). abv: 10.5% Price: $28 88 The same Bell as the well-known Napa Valley Cowhorn 2011 Marsanne-Roussanne winery, Bell extends its reach into Oregon to make this Anam Cara 2011 Nicholas Estate Ries- 88 (Applegate Valley). At just 12.6% alcohol, lip-smackingly good Pinot Gris. Gooseberry, melon, 89 ling (Chehalem Mountains). The alcohol is this might seem underripe for warm climate varieties, kiwi and grapefruit flavors swirl across the tongue, leav- just 9.1%, with residual sugar of 3.6%, yet the wine does but it tastes perfectly full and nicely balanced. It’s tart ing a clean, fresh and very fruity wake. The moderate not taste that sweet. This is a wine that snaps back and and lemony, to be sure, and in fact makes a fine accom- alcohol is an added bonus. —P.G. forth from tart and tangy to fruity and sweet, with a juicy paniment to fresh-shucked oysters. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 kick to the finish. It maintains good concentration and abv: 12.6% Price: $22 acidity throughout. —P.G. Chehalem 2011 Three Vineyard Pinot abv: 9.1% Price: $22 Deer Creek Vineyards 2011 Bella’s Sun- 88 Gris (Willamette Valley). Clean and easy 83 shine (Rogue Valley). After a sugary start, drinking, this is created using a fruit from all three es- Chehalem 2011 Three Vineyard Riesling this thin and simple wine turns a bit sour. The blend is a tate vineyards. Lightly spicy apple, pear and peach fla- 89 (Willamette Valley). Using grapes from all mix of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. —P.G. vors combine gracefully, giving the wine a solid and ap- three estate vineyards, this slightly sweet (2.5% residual abv: 13% Price: $20 pealingly fruity core. —P.G. sugar) Riesling is textural and complex. Flavors of fruit abv: 13.4% Price: $19 skin and rind dominate, notably grapefruit and peach pit. —P.G. OTHER WHITE WINES Erath 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). Lovely abv: 10.5% Price: $24 Adelsheim 2011 Ribbon Springs Vine- notes of fresh-cut pear, pear skin and a bit of 88 yard Auxerrois (Ribbon Ridge). Solid as melon highlight this nicely defined wine. It’s a showcase Foris 2011 Riesling (Rogue Valley). Tart 90 ever, this lip-smackingly refreshing Auxerrois is brim- for an emerging style of Pinot Gris, which Oregon has 88 and fruity, this Riesling bears flavors of apple made its own. —P.G. and white peach, with an extra dimension of citrus rind. ming with fine flavors of apple, pear and peach. The abv: 13% Price: $14 Balanced and lively, the fruit rules the day. —P.G. cool vintage has lowered the alcohol a touch, and there abv: 11% Price: $14 is plenty of acidity. The fruit purity and compelling aro- Illahe 2011 Estate Pinot Gris (Willamette matics remain as good as ever. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 87 Valley). Stainless fermented and aged, this tart, Anam Cara 2011 Nicholas Estate Dry abv: 13% Price: $22 apple-flavored Pinot Gris is close to fresh cider in flavor. 87 Riesling (Chehalem Mountains). Seem- The alcohol is low enough that it is almost invisible. Just ingly as tart as a Riesling can get despite having residual Foris 2011 Dry Gewürztraminer (Rogue pure, juicy, clean fruit comes through. —P.G. sugar of 1.2%, this lemony lip-smacker shows good con- 90 Valley). The lovel floral aromas are a pure ex- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 centration. It would be a gem with the right foods, but pression of the grape’s unique spice and rose petal char- on its own, the searingly tart acids may be too much for acteristics. It’s deeply flavorful, soft, elegant and linger- Melrose Vineyards 2010 Estate Grown most tasters. —P.G. ing, with a lychee flavor. Best Buy. —P.G. 87 Pinot Gris (Umpqua Valley). This bears abv: 10.6% Price: $22 abv: 13.9% Price: $14

WineMag.com | 27 Abacela 2011 Albariño (Umpqua Valley). Abacela 2011 Grenache Rosé (Umpqua Rex Hill 2010 Jacob-Hart Vineyard Pinot 89 The 11th vintage of Abacela’s Albariño is a racy 88 Valley). This aromatic rosé is a lovely shade of 93 Noir (Willamette Valley). A stunning return wine, with excellent varietal character. Fruit flavors sug- pale salmon, and has mashed apple and yeasty, almost to the quality that was seen in 2008, this superb ef- gest a mix of cucumber, apple, citrus and melon. There’s hoppy notes. Flavors are bracing and lively, hinting at fort bursts onto the palate with brambly berries, sweet a trace of oyster shell minerality and a bracing whiff of pretty cherry fruit. —P.G. herbs, coffee grounds and somewhat stiff, but pol- sea breeze on the finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $15 ished, tannins. It’s complex, with a touch of earthiness abv: 12.9% Price: $18 and generous length. The label reads Willamette Val- Erath 2011 Dion Vineyard Pinot Gris ley, though the vineyard is in the Chehalem Mountains Chehalem 2011 Grüner Veltliner (Ribbon 85 Rosé (Chehalem Mountains). It’s difficult AVA. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 88 Ridge). A spot-on Oregon Grüner, this is dry to understand what this is trying to be. Pinot Gris can abv: 13.5% Price: $58 and spicy. It’s clean as a whistle, with flavors of , show some light blush color, but this wine is almost lemon and sour peach. —P.G. pink. The result is tannic and tart, with a rhubarb-like Rex Hill 2010 La Colina Pinot Noir (Willa- abv: 12.6% Price: $24 flavor. —P.G. 93 mette Valley). The best of a very fine flight of abv: 12.5% Price: $14 2010 Pinots from Rex Hill, the La Colina offers a suc- J. Scott Cellars 2011 Blanc de Noirs Pi- culent mix of crushed flower, berry and liquid rock. The 86 not Noir Blanc (Oregon). Despite the name, Spindrift Cellars 2011 Pinot Noir Rosé flavors meld beautifully, with vivid, lively acidity that this is not a sparkling wine; rather, it is a still white wine 86 (Willamette Valley). Tart, bracing and a bit brings a touch of grapefruit. The label reads Willamette made from Pinot Noir grapes. The varietal character leesy, this has hints of rhubarb, jicama and starchy white Valley, though the vineyard is in the Dundee Hills AVA. seems to have been completely stripped away, leaving vegetables. It’s not vegetal in a green sense, just quite Editors’ Choice. —P.G. just a plain and simple white wine with light citrus and dry and a bit slender. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $52 apple flavors. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 13.8% Price: $22 Bergström 2010 Temperance Hill Pinot 92 Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). The pretty fragrance Abiqua Wind 2011 Collier’s Early Muscat PINOT NOIR comes with cotton candy highlights, along with a note of (Willamette Valley). This has a sweet charm tangy red fruit. It’s concentrated and deep, with appeal- 85 Kelley Fox 2010 Maresh Vineyard Pi- to it, with a rich lemon flavor. This would be fine as a ing purity of flavor and the structure to age for over a not Noir (Dundee Hills). Made using fruit light dessert wine with lemon . —P.G. 94 decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. sourced from 40-year-old vines, this elegant and de- abv: 12% Price: $13 abv: 13.5% Price: $60 tailed Pinot does not shy away from flavors of leaf and Erath 2010 Le Jour Magique White Pinot herb. But they are anchored in pure and expressive Carabella 2010 Inchinnan Pinot Noir 84 Noir (Willamette Valley). Volatile aromas fruit, with old-vine flavors of bramble and pepper. What 92 (Chehalem Mountains). The mysteriously lead into fruit flavors that could be anything. It’s more is most exceptional is the delicacy and length of this named Inchinnan offers a flavorful mix of mint, berry, like Roussanne than Pinot Noir. —P.G. wine, two characteristics shared by all the Kelley Fox cherry, milk chocolate, Asian spice, cedar and cola. It’s abv: 13.5% Price: $55 wines. Cellar Selection. —P.G. harmonious, with subtle power and excellent length. abv: 13% Price: $60 Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Abiqua Wind 2011 Chloe’s Breeze Mül- abv: 13.5% Price: $54 83 ler-Thurgau (Willamette Valley). This sim- Ponzi 2010 Aurora Pinot Noir (Willamette ple and sweet wine has a light peach flavor with a sug- 94 Valley). For full review see page 5. Cellar Se- Chehalem 2009 RR Pinot Noir (Ribbon ary—not syrupy—finish. It might be a good wine to lection. 92 Ridge). A special, 25th anniversary bottling, soak fruit in for a light dessert. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $100 this is a knockout. Dark, smoky and tannic, this has a abv: 11.5% Price: $12 deep, black fruit flavor, threaded with rich streaks of lic- Bergström 2010 Bergström Vineyard Pi- orice, coffee and chocolate. Further detail comes in the not Noir (Dundee Hills). 93 Though the vintage form of peppery herb. This is thick, muscular and inte- SPARKLING WINE helped create a lighter-than-usual version of this bench- grated. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. mark Pinot, it’s beautifully crafted and fully realized. Chehalem 2011 Ridgecrest Vineyards abv: 14.5% Price: $69 Like Burgundy, it disguises its power in a framework Riesling Sext (Ribbon Ridge). At 6% resid- 87 of elegantly defined fruits, acids and polished tannins. Rex Hill 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willa- ual sugar and just 7% alcohol, you might expect this to Cherry, plum, peach pit, pineapple and lemon oil notes mette Valley). A huge step up from the pre- be dessert-like. But the delicate spritz and grapefruit- 92 are all in the mix. It’s a wine that invites contemplation vious vintage, this ripe, round and wonderfully fruity like acidity keeps it in the apéritif range, with Moscato- and rewards your time and attention. Editors’ Choice. effort is a juicy, mineral-soaked bottle of joy. Luscious like orange-candy flavors and a juicy, fruity mouthfeel. —P.G. cherry fruit is topped with a dollop of butterscotch. Edi- —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $80 abv: 7% Price: $24 tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $48 Bergström 2010 de Lancellotti Vineyard ROSÉS 93 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). With its Sineann 2011 Resonance Vineyard Re- built-in ageability and instant flavor appeal, this bottling 92 serve Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton Dis- Cayuse 2010 Edith Rosé (Walla Walla may be the favorite of all the 2010s from Bergström. trict). The 2011 Resonance Reserve has just a bit more 91 Valley). Picked and vinified expressly for this It’s complete and delicious, with muscle and depth— concentration than the elegant regular bottling. There rosé, the grapes were sourced from the Armada Vine- a mouth-pleasing mix of berry, cola, sandalwood and seems to be more new barrel influence as well, offer- yard. It has a pale, copper-like -skin shade, it is earth, plus exotic accents of incense and myrrh. Edi- ing proportioned touches of milk chocolate, nougat and aged for a year longer than most rosés, but it has lost tors’ Choice. —P.G. caramel. All in all, this is a tasty wine with fine length none of its freshness. The pretty strawberry note gains abv: 13.5% Price: $65 and impressive detail. —P.G. complexity and textural interest as it lingers on the pal- abv: NA Price: $60 ate. Persistent, focused, leesy and long, this elegant Ponzi 2010 Avellana Pinot Noir (Willa- rosé looks deceptively light, but offers powerful flavors. 93 mette Valley). For full review see page 6. Cel- Bergström 2010 Winery Block Pinot Noir —P.G. lar Selection. 91 (Chehalem Mountains). Delicate and de- abv: 12.7% Price: $35 abv: 13.2% Price: $100 tailed, this balanced Pinot Noir displays a perfect mix

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 of wild berry, mushroom, green tea and a whiff of com- a big wine, but it has authentic grip and surprising age- red fruit shows good concentration, with nicely bal- post. These threads of flavor, and others associated ability. Cellar Selection. —P.G. anced barrel notes of light chocolate and coffee. —P.G. with them, create a delightful tapestry that continues abv: 13.5% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $32 through the lengthy finish. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $65 Chehalem 2010 Ridgecrest Vineyards Westrey 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willa- 90 Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). The best of the 90 mette Valley). This is a little tight upon open- Carabella 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Che- three vineyard designates in 2010, this firm and full-fla- ing, showing just touches of flower, herb and earth. 91 halem Mountains). This well-balanced, es- vored wine is still a bit tight, and rewards extra breath- Tangy cranberry and black cherry flavors come with an tate-grown Pinot Noir combines elegance with acces- ing time. It tastes like a bowl full of berries and plums underlying minerality. This is a wine to decant or cellar sibility. It’s a lovely mix of flower and red berry scents with pretty mocha highlights. —P.G. for a few more years. —P.G. and flavors. A hint of rose petal adds a gentle touch to abv: 13.1% Price: $48 abv: 13.5% Price: $36 the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $37 Chehalem 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Rib- Anam Cara 2010 Mark V Pinot Noir (Che- 90 bon Ridge). This is a forward, even plush Re- 89 halem Mountains). The Mark V bottling usu- Kelley Fox 2009 Momtazi Vineyard Pi- serve, loaded with generous black fruits and streaked ally gets the most new oak, but in this light vintage the 91 not Noir (McMinnville). Kelley Fox, who also with anise and cola notes. At first, the wine seemed to wood has been kept in check. Tasted prerelease, it blos- makes the Scott Paul wines, has a deceptively delicate fade a bit too quickly, robbing the finish of expected somed over several hours, similar in style and flavor to touch with her Pinots. They may seem light and herb- complexity. But retasted on the second day, the wine the winery’s Reserve, possessing fine balance and a pret- al at first, but on further examination there is plenty of had fleshed out beautifully. —P.G. ty red-fruit flavor. —P.G. fruit, and it’s sufficiently ripe, just not jammy. Pure ex- abv: 14.6% Price: $59 abv: 13.4% Price: $65 pression of the site, along with somewhat wild fruit and herb flavors, are the hallmark. The flavors of bright ber- Illahe 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willa- Anam Cara 2010 Nicholas Estate Re- ry and spice enter gracefully and linger through the long 90 mette Valley). Matured in 50% new French 89 serve Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). finish. —P.G. oak, this wine offers medium concentration and appeal- This shows a somewhat more concentrated midpalate abv: 13.5% Price: $40 ing scents of rose petals, apples and cranberries. The than the regular bottling, though all of the Anam Cara tangy fruit is juicy and firm, and nicely balanced for cel- Pinots share common ground. This is a balanced, ele- Lange 2010 Lange Estate Vineyard Pinot laring. Cellar Selection. —P.G. gant wine, offering a mix of strawberry, earth and pep- 91 Noir (Dundee Hills). This estate offering is abv: 13.5% Price: $38 per flavors all done with a delicate hand. —P.G. lively, with a slightly peppery accent. Cranberry and abv: 13.4% Price: $45 raspberry flavors show midpalate concentration, leaving Raptor Ridge 2009 Meredith Mitchell the impression of a juicy, vibrant wine with aging poten- 90 Vineyard Pinot Noir (McMinnville). This Carabella 2010 Dijon 667 Clone Pinot tial. Cellar Selection. —P.G. muscular, peppery wine has tight focus and good fla- 89 Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This is a fine abv: 13.4% Price: $60 vor intensity. Bright cherry fruit shines through the pin- effort from first-year fruit that was cropped way down point core, gracefully expanding throughout the medi- for extra concentration. It’s a vibrant wine with a bright Rex Hill 2010 Old School Pinot Noir (Wil- um-length finish. —P.G. raspberry flavor that has a pretty, lightly candied qual- 91 lamette Valley). This new designation from abv: 14% Price: $38 ity. —P.G. Rex Hill is a bit reticent aromatically, but full on the abv: 13.5% Price: $54 palate, with plummy fruit and a light hint of barnyard. Sineann 2011 Resonance Vineyard Pinot Good texture and nicely threaded flavors roll onto the 90 Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Smooth and Chehalem 2010 Stoller Vineyards Pinot smooth, lingering finish. —P.G. supple, this has pretty, nicely ripened red fruit flavors. 89 Noir (Dundee Hills). Medium bodied, this abv: 13.5% Price: $58 The mouthfeel is delicate, almost lacy. —P.G. fruity vineyard-designate has a peppery spice note. A abv: NA Price: $48 touch of dried herb and a hint of earth carry onto the Anam Cara 2010 Heather’s Vineyard Pi- finish. —P.G. 90 not Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This two- Spindrift Cellars 2010 Croft Vineyards abv: 13.1% Price: $48 barrel cuvée is the star of the Anam Cara 2010s, bearing 90 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Lovely ar- a mix of pretty cherry fruit and milk chocolaty tannins. omatics introduce this elegant, light, yet truly satisfy- Erath 2010 Battle Creek Pinot Noir (Wil- Some well-modulated earth and herb notes add inter- ing Pinot Noir. Balanced and complex, it shows classic 89 lamette Valley). More extracted than any of est, but it’s the elegance and proportion of the wine that scents and flavors, with Burgundian character. It would the other 2010 Erath Pinots, this wine has a pleasing really shine. —P.G. not be surprising if this wine lasted a decade or more. mix of cherry cola, clean earth and dark chocolate fla- abv: 13.4% Price: $65 —P.G. vors. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $28 abv: 13% Price: $50 Bergström 2010 Cumberland Reserve Pi- 90 not Noir (Willamette Valley). Bergström’s Watermill 2010 Pinot Noir (Walla Walla Erath 2010 La Nuit Magique Pinot Noir lineup of Pinot Noir begins where many other winer- 90 Valley). Oregon Pinot Noir is no rarity, except 89 (Willamette Valley). This is the reserve of the ies finish. This complex, earthy wine shows its fair share when it bears the Walla Walla appellation, as this one Erath lineup and the winery’s best effort—along with of herb and even a hint of stem, but those are offset does. Made using fruit from the Couse Creek Vineyard, the Battle Creek bottling—in 2010. Pretty scents and by crisp, well-defined flavors of cranberry, cherry and this is lovely from the first sniff. A wealth of earthy and flavors of raspberry and rose water mingle with the rip- spice. A fine example of this winery’s house style. —P.G. herbal scents, dusty spices and brambly berries make est cherry fruit in the lineup. Focused, balanced and el- abv: 13.5% Price: $42 this memorable. It finishes with medium weight and a egant. —P.G. whiff of truffle. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $65 Bergström 2010 Gregory Ranch Pinot abv: 13.5% Price: $42 90 Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). This wine Kelley Fox 2010 Mirabai Pinot Noir (Wil- begins tight and peppery, with cranberry and cherry Westrey 2010 Oracle Vineyard Pinot Noir 89 lamette Valley). Sharp and tangy, this asser- cola flavors. Tasted over a period of several days, it not 90 (Dundee Hills). This vineyard-designate, tive wine shows a well-integrated mix of berry, cherry, only held up well, but seemed to gain in focus. It’s not made using fruit from what is arguably the best AVA in sassafras and herb. Lightly dusted with fresh earth, it Oregon, is crisp, spicy, peppery and herbal. The tight does a gentle fade through the finish. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $35

WineMag.com | 29 Lange 2010 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pi- single-vineyard offering. The fruit is ripe and clean, flavors of strawberry and light cherry are set over tart 89 not Noir (Willamette Valley). This is a spicy, with a tart red-berry flavor at the core. —P.G. acids. The palate softens up a bit and runs through a lively wine with interesting flavors of black cherry cola. abv: 13.3% Price: $48 quick, clean fade. —P.G. It’s not a big wine, but it offers a mouthful of pleasure. abv: 13% Price: $38 —P.G. Chehalem 2010 Three Vineyard Pi- abv: 13.4% Price: $60 88 not Noir (Willamette Valley). This smoky, Raptor Ridge 2010 Trig Pinot Noir (Wil- dusty wine seems to be chugging quickly along the ag- 88 lamette Valley). This is quite unusual, loaded Lange 2010 Three Hills Cuvée Pinot Noir ing curve. At the moment, it’s drinking nicely, decked with notes of green herb, leaf, fiddlehead fern, pepper 89 (Willamette Valley). Fruit sourced from three out with pretty baking spice and mocha highlights. It’s and lemon verbena. It’s herbal and not at all disagree- vineyards—Lange Estate, Freedom Hill and Yamhill— smooth and mouth filling, with lots of pretty cherry fla- able, though fruit-lovers may want to look elsewhere. has been artfully blended into an aromatic wine, show- vor. —P.G. Just 50 cases of this wine were made. —P.G. ing a pleasing mix of black cherry, cola and cocoa fla- abv: 13% Price: $27 abv: 13% Price: $38 vors. Open and broadly accessible, this is a balanced and quite delicious drink which will be best enjoyed over the Erath 2010 Leland Pinot Noir (Willamette Redhawk 2010 Pataccoli Family Vineyard next few years. —P.G. 88 Valley). Even in a less-than-ripe vintage such 88 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Somewhat abv: 13.4% Price: $40 as this, the Leland stands out in the Erath lineup. Tight volatile aromas suggest stems and a bit of nail polish be- and herbal, this has an array of Pinot-specific fruits that fore the herbal fruit surfaces. This chewy, tannic wine Stoller 2010 JV Estate Pinot Noir (Dundee are of medium concentration. Its balanced use of bar- does not live up to its single vineyard promise. —P.G. 89 Hills). Half of the wine was fermented with na- rel aging brings a chocolate flavor to the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 tive yeasts, and 30% saw new oak. What shines is the abv: 13% Price: $50 juicy, fresh, delicious fruit—a jumble of raspberries and Redhawk 2010 Vintner’s Reserve Pinot cherries—plus the finish, which hangs deliciously. Edi- Erath 2010 Prince Hill Pommard Pinot 88 Noir (Willamette Valley). Light, but elegant tors’ Choice. —P.G. 88 Noir (Dundee Hills). This is the most com- and pretty, this wine spent 17 months in 40% new oak. abv: 13.2% Price: $25 plete of the four Prince Hill clonal selection bottlings. Fruit flavors emphasize tart berry, with a dash of earthy It has flavors of cherry, Dr. Pepper, cherry candy and a sandalwood. —P.G. Stoller 2009 Cathy’s Reserve Pinot Noir hint of incense. It’s a pleasant, easy-drinking wine best abv: 13.4% Price: $30 89 (Dundee Hills). Aged in 100% new French consumed while still young. —P.G. oak, this seems to be a bit overwhelmed by the wood. abv: 13% Price: $50 Winter’s Hill 2009 Pinot Noir (Willamette Flavors recall black cherry cola, plus a layer of brown 88 Valley). This wine’s core has a flavor of hard sugar and milk chocolate. It somehow misses some of Illahe 2010 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- cherry candy with a coating of milk chocolate. The tan- the depth and texture that past vintages have shown. 88 ley). Fresh and pretty, this has a bright, refresh- nins are firm, and the wine has good midpalate concen- —P.G. ing palate that offers flavors of cranberry and raspberry. tration. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $100 It’s smooth and fruit forward, with medium aging po- abv: 14.5% Price: $24 tential. —P.G. Westrey 2010 Pinot Noir (Willamette abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Youngberg Hill Vineyards 2009 Nata- 89 Valley). Pretty scents of rose petal and white 88 sha Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Sport- chocolate introduce this smooth, mouth-coating wine. J. Scott Cellars 2010 Pinot Noir (Oregon). ing a much-improved label design, the 2009 Natasha There’s a hint of peppery herb and a finishing touch of 88 This Pinot saw one-quarter new oak, which con- brings pungent, assertive scents of tomato leaf, pepper light toast, with clean, well-structured red fruits display- tributed an undertone of burnt toast. The spicy ber- and moist earth. Sharp and focused, the fruit is there, ing excellent varietal character. —P.G. ry fruit is accented by a cola note, and the wine has a though it’s the leaf and earth components that stand out. abv: 13.5% Price: $26 friendly, mouth-filling roundness. This is perfect for For its earthy style, it’s a well-made and complex offer- near term drinking. —P.G. ing. —P.G. Westrey 2010 Justice Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 13.7% Price: $20 abv: 14.4% Price: $40 89 (Eola-Amity Hills). This AVA’s typical miner- ality underscores this full-bodied wine, which bears fla- Melrose Vineyards 2009 Parker’s Pinot A to Z 2011 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Tart and vors of spice, berry and black cherry cola. —P.G. 88 Noir (Umpqua Valley). Dark fruits—notably 87 spicy, this is loaded with flavors of raspberry and abv: 13.5% Price: $38 black cherries and figs—come with a chocolaty edge. cherry pie, lightly dusted with accents of cocoa powder. The citrusy acids keep the wine on point as it slowly The result is a pretty, slightly candied, ready-to-drink Winter’s Hill 2009 Estate Pinot Noir fades. —P.G. Pinot Noir. —P.G. 89 (Dundee Hills). This is a tight, substantial ef- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 13% Price: $20 fort, with scents of bark, earth and herb running through the tart raspberry fruit. It’s less accessible than many of Merrill Cellars 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir Cherry Hill 2010 Dijon Cuvée Estate Pi- Oregon’s 2009 Pinots, but with decanting or further cel- 88 (Oregon). This is rich, round, toasty and choc- 87 not Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Firm and juicy, laring, it’s a wine that should open nicely. —P.G. olaty, and it is instantly accessible and mouth filling. The this Pinot has a core of berry fruit and plenty of acid- abv: 14.5% Price: $34 forward fruit and barrel flavors coat the tongue with ity. The earthy, herbal accents are typical of this AVA. notes of cherries and chocolate. Drink soon, while the Overall, it shows fine balance and decent concentration. Anam Cara 2010 Nicholas Estate Pi- flavors remain fresh and balanced. —P.G. —P.G. 88 not Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This is abv: 13.8% Price: $43 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 pleasant and light, with a strawberry flavor that’s light- ly threaded with streaks of spice and sandalwood. It’s Rainstorm 2010 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Cherry Hill 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Eola- a delicate and pretty wine, reflective of the cooler vin- 88 The second vintage of Rainstorm is smooth and 87 Amity Hills). The nose is slighted lifted and tage. —P.G. pretty, showing flavors of ripe strawberry and chocolate high-toned. But the pleasing flavor of fresh raspberry abv: 13.2% Price: $32 that last through the finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. takes over on the palate, and light touches of cocoa and abv: 12.5% Price: $17 sandalwood from 18 months in barrel bring a bit of Chehalem 2010 Corral Creek Vineyards depth to the finish. —P.G. 88 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). A Raptor Ridge 2010 Adalfo’s Block Pinot abv: 13.5% Price: $29 toasty streak of espresso-flavored richness marks this 88 Noir (Willamette Valley). This is a very pretty wine, though not nearly as substantial as the 2009. Fruit

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 Erath 2010 Estate Selection Pinot Noir Terrapin Cellars 2011 Pinot Noir (Willa- much in this difficult vintage. Short and intensely herb- 87 (Willamette Valley). Perhaps because it is 87 mette Valley). From a boutique producer, this al, it has strong scents and flavors of tomato leaf, which a blended wine, the Estate Selection is showing bet- offers a soft, floral bouquet reminiscent of rose petals override any hint of ripe fruit flavor. —P.G. ter fruit than many of Erath’s single-vineyard Pinots and face powder. That delicate entry belies a wine with abv: 13% Price: $50 in 2010. Light, pretty cherry fruit comes with a note of grip and tannin, as well as some spicy, herbal toughness. milk chocolate from barrel aging. It’s nicely balanced —P.G. Erath 2010 Knight’s Gambit Pinot Noir with a medium-length finish. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $16 85 (Dundee Hills). Herbal and short, this offers a abv: 13% Price: $34 very light watermelon flavor, along with plenty of herb Bomb 2009 Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton and tomato leaf notes. It’s on the slender side, with a Erath 2010 Prince Hill 777 Pinot Noir 86 District). Forward and fruity, this offers flavors quick-to-fade finish. —P.G. 87 (Dundee Hills). Delicate and pretty, this has of berry and plum. It feels a little flat on the palate, with abv: 13% Price: $50 a pale cherry flavor, with light but proportionate tan- some peppery tannins and a quick fade. —P.G. nins. It fades a bit quickly, offering a final hint of milk abv: 14.3% Price: $50 Erath 2010 Prince Hill 115 Pinot Noir chocolate. —P.G. 85 (Dundee Hills). Isolated as a single clone, this abv: 13% Price: $50 Erath 2010 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Though limited bottling comes across as sharp and grassy, with 86 quite light, this widely available Pinot could be some sour plum fruit. The finish carries a hint of aspara- Grandmaster 2010 Pinot Noir (Oregon). tossed in with a group of village Burgundies without any gus. —P.G. From a demanding vintage, this offers tart cran- 87 trouble. Flavors of berry, compact earth and herb carry abv: 13% Price: $50 berry and rhubarb flavors, with a forceful herbal com- through onto the gentle, fading finish. —P.G. ponent. It’s well-structured, offering citrusy acids and abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Redhawk 2010 Grateful Red Pinot Noir good length to the finish. —P.G. (Willamette Valley). A pale and delicate ver- abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Erath 2010 Hyland Pinot Noir (McMin- 85 sion of this entry-level Pinot, its fruit is barely there, just nville). As with many of the Erath 2010 vine- 86 hinting at rhubarb and watermelon. Some earth and Raptor Ridge 2011 Pinot Noir (Willamette yard designates, this is strongly herbal. The notes of leaf stem flavors come through as well. —P.G. Valley). From a tough vintage, this has friendly and herb create somewhat unripe flavor impressions, 87 abv: 13.2% Price: $17 flavors of chocolate-chip cookie dough and walnuts. The with a touch of bitterness on the finish. The fruit just chocolaty character, which is far more noticeable than passes the ripeness of sweet tomatoes. —P.G. Siduri 2011 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- the fruit, helps to mitigate the tough, chewy tannins. abv: 13% Price: $50 ley). Winemaker Adam Lee notes that only Drink soon. —P.G. 85 abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Erath 2010 Prince Hill Pinot Noir (Dundee two Oregon Pinots were made in 2011, as all fruit was 86 Hills). There is a significant change in the fla- declassified. Indeed, this is a thin, peppery wine, with Raptor Ridge 2011 Shea Vineyard Pinot vors of this wine following the outstanding 2009 ver- highlights of orange peel and grapefruit, and just a short 87 Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Here’s an sion. Case production has almost doubled, but the light slice of red berry fruit. —P.G. elegant, low alcohol wine that’s supertoasty and bone aromas and flavors seem heavily scented with black pep- abv: 13% Price: $22 dry, with barrel notes that almost completely disguise per, with additional herb and cherry flavors on the fin- the delicate cherry fruit. —P.G. ish. —P.G. Brella 2010 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- abv: 12.5% Price: $55 abv: 13% Price: $50 84 ley). A light wine, this shows mostly flavors of earth, forest floor and dried wood, rather than fruit. The Raptor Ridge 2010 Meredith Mitchell Hawkins Cellars 2009 Pinot Noir (Willa- finish leaves a sour aftertaste. —P.G. 87 Vineyard Pinot Noir (McMinnville). The 86 mette Valley). A stiff, tannic wine, this slowly abv: 13% Price: $20 2010 Meredith Mitchell designate is less ripe and more opens and brings brambly berry flavors into play, along acidic than the richly flavored 2009. It carries a whiff of with notes of earthy herbs. There’s a touch of bitterness Abiqua Wind 2010 Isaac’s Reserve Pinot volatility that grows more noticeable after being open to the tannins. —P.G. 83 Noir (Willamette Valley). Very light straw- for 24 hours. Its modest cherry fruit is set against bal- abv: 13.6% Price: $22 berry fruit competes with a powerful flavor of damp anced tannins. —P.G. earth. The wine seems thin and on the green side. abv: 13% Price: $38 Kings Ridge 2010 Pinot Noir (Oregon). —P.G. 86 Cranberry, spice and fresh herb give this pep- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Redhawk 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Willa- pery Pinot plenty of flavor interest. Definitely on the 87 mette Valley). Tight at first, this opens to re- earthy and herbal side, this juicy wine is a good go-to Deer Creek Vineyards 2011 Private Re- veal flavors of strawberry and red plum. A bit earthy and bottle for everyday drinking. —P.G. 83 serve Pinot Noir (Rogue Valley). A dilute astringent, it has drying tannins that should smooth out abv: 13.3% Price: $17 wine with a touch of pale cherry fruit. It turns woody on with a bit more bottle age. —P.G. the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Purple Hands 2011 PH Pinot Noir (Willa- abv: 13% Price: $40 86 mette Valley). This is Pinot Noir at its lightest, Spindrift Cellars 2011 Pinot Noir (Wil- reminiscent of a German Blauburgunder. Delicate, just- Deer Creek Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir 87 lamette Valley). This offers light berry and ripe flavors suggest rhubarb and wild raspberry. —P.G. 83 (Rogue Valley). Exceedingly light in color, melon flavors, with a tart, slightly peppery bite. Good abv: 13% Price: $25 scent and flavor, this mixes a herbal note with touches texture and overall balance make this a pleasant quaf- of strawberry and green tea. —P.G. fer. —P.G. Erath 2010 Bishop Creek Pinot Noir abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $25 85 (Yamhill-Carlton District). There is a light suggestion of barely ripe strawberry and strawberry Stoller 2009 SV Estate Pinot Noir (Dundee leaf, followed by flavors that are more tomatoey than TEMPRANILLO 87 Hills). This starts out with pretty fruit scents grapy. —P.G. and a supple, almost silky entry. There’s a strong cola abv: 13% Price: $50 Cayuse 2009 Impulsivo En Chamberlin streak that runs through the core, plus flavors of smoked 94 Vineyard Tempranillo (Walla Walla Val- figs and dusty spices. The finish turns slightly bitter, Erath 2010 Dion Pinot Noir (Chehalem ley). Dark and smoky, this wine is relatively tannic and with a residue of scorched chocolate. —P.G. 85 Mountains). The Dion is a new entry in the emphasizes flavors of leaf, bark, root and herb. There’s abv: 14.5% Price: $45 long list of Erath single-vineyard wines. It doesn’t show plenty of depth and exceptional power to this wine,

WineMag.com | 31 which seems unique among New World Tempranillos. highlights on the lingering finish. It’s fresh and elegant, barrel and has the density and power to prove it. Cellar Cellar Selection. —P.G. with a more gentle fade than some of the more potent Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $80 Syrahs from Cayuse. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $90 abv: 14.2% Price: $75 Abacela 2008 Estate Tempranillo Ellanelle 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Wal- 89 (Umpqua Valley). Youthful and compact, this Abacela 2008 Estate Syrah (Umpqua Val- 93 la Walla Valley). The blend includes 4% each shows a lot of unresolved oak aromas when first opened. 91 ley). Virtually pure Syrah, this is big, full bodied Cabernet Franc and Merlot. It was aged in 80% new Slowly more complexity emerges—rose petals, tart and loaded with berry and barrel flavors. The accents of oak, but retains its lovely, sweetly floral nose and lus- berries, anise, cedar and ground coffee. It’s balanced, clean earth, toast and spice weave through the fruit and cious, berry fruit flavors. Yes, there is plenty of toasty young and age worthy, but decant it if you plan to drink onto the well-built finish that features polished tannins. oak goodness, but it’s layered in with the fruit and soil it anytime soon. —P.G. The power and structure suggest that this could age for flavors. Overall, this is a thoroughly enjoyable bottle abv: 13.6% Price: $30 up to a decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. right now, with a good decade or more of aging poten- abv: 14.1% Price: $30 tial. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Melrose Vineyards 2009 Estate Grown abv: 14.9% Price: $35 88 Tempranillo (Umpqua Valley). There is a Cowhorn 2009 Reserve Syrah (Apple- pretty, floral accent to the aromas, followed by notes of 91 gate Valley). This is among the most elegant Sineann 2010 Block One Cabernet Sau- dusty cocoa and cinnamon. A whiff of buttery leather is and refined Syrahs made anywhere in the Northwest. It 93 vignon (Columbia Valley). Rich and loaded woven throughout, and this is clearly a wine that may has a fine-tuned richness that belies its modest alcohol. with exceptional fruit power, this is dominated by the not please all palates. But the rose petal and cherry fla- Plum, blueberry and cherry pie flavors come with a hint Champoux Vineyard’s classic black-cherry character. vors carry through the balanced finish, and the region’s of Bourbon barrel. The complexity and detail are truly Accents of clean earth, violet, tar and caramel show ex- track record for producing age-worthy Tempranillo sug- engaging. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. traordinary depth, framed by firm and muscular tan- gests that further cellaring might be optimal. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 nins. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 11.4% Price: $30 abv: 14.8% Price: $72 Abacela 2009 Syrah (Southern Oregon). 89 Forward, sappy and fruity, this has excellent Januik 2009 Seven Hills Vineyard Cab- SYRAH structure and plenty of ripe berry flavor. It has support- 92 ernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Cayuse 2009 En Chamberlin Vineyard ing acids that lend a touch of citrus, plus a streak of va- Januik makes just four barrels of this 100% Walla Walla nilla that runs through the finish. —P.G. Cabernet. The usual plushness of the Seven Hills Vine- Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). For full review 99 abv: 14.1% Price: $19 yard comes with a harder, steelier edge—a hallmark of see page 3. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.9% Price: $75 Januik’s style. It’s structured for aging, with black cherry Merrill Cellars 2010 Reserve Syrah (Or- fruit that’s annotated with tobacco, coffee and baking egon). Cayuse 2009 Armada Vineyard Syrah 87 Already aging quickly, this very ripe spice. Cellar Selection. —P.G. wine leans into the raisin and prune end of the flavor (Walla Walla Valley). Dense and concen- abv: 14.4% Price: $45 97 spectrum. Backed with a generous dose of baking spice, trated, this has thick, almost jammy blue and purple it’s a soft and plummy wine ready for near-term enjoy- Tero Estates 2008 Windrow Vineyards fruits, with a peppery highlight and an undercurrent of ment. —P.G. Old Block Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla sweet grain. The palate is tight, featuring layers of cas- 91 abv: 14.1% Price: $29 Walla Valley). This is a jammy wine, with an aroma sis, ink, anise, coffee and iodine, with an earthy salin- and flavor that verge on being pruny. It offers good min- ity that runs through the finish. The Armada is perhaps Merrill Cellars 2008 Julius Caesar Syrah erality, with a compact, focused flavor that suggests in- a bit less fruity and more austere than the other 2009 (Oregon). This is a rustic Syrah, with a simple, tensely concentrated berry compote, plus grace notes of Cayuse Syrahs, but is every inch their equal. Editors’ 86 grapy flavor. The tannins are a bit rough-and-tumble, plum and apricot. —P.G. Choice. —P.G. but the wine is perfectly quaffable with burgers or piz- abv: 15.1% Price: $57 abv: 14.7% Price: $85 zas. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $40 Cayuse 2009 Bionic Frog Syrah (Walla RED BLENDS 95 Walla Valley). The Frog is a bit reductive, a bit shy in 2009 and needs extra decanting. With prop- CABERNET SAUVIGNON Cayuse 2009 Camaspelo Cabernet Sau- er breathing time, it shows inviting notes of violets and 96 vignon-Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). The strawberries, and it gains concentration through the Cayuse 2009 Widowmaker Cabernet Camaspelo blend is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% midpalate, with additions of cherry and an almost liquid 97 Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Using Merlot, and it shows a riot of juicy cranberry, raspber- minerality. An almost delicate version of this wine. Cel- grapes sourced entirely from the En Chamberlin Vine- ry, blueberry and black cherry flavors in a rambunc- lar Selection. —P.G. yard, this pure Cabernet is deep, dark, focused and tious display of power. Full, round and balanced, it of- abv: 14.7% Price: $90 tight, with firm but velvety tannins and a perfect mix of fers hints of cedar, earth and coffee that extend onto cassis, coffee and earth. Even more than previous years, the lush, complex, age-worthy finish. Cellar Selection. Cayuse 2009 Cailloux Vineyard Syrah this vintage displays astonishing depth and power. Fla- —P.G. 95 (Walla Walla Valley). Always a standout, this vors of Serrano ham and other cured meats, plus a deli- abv: 14.9% Price: $75 is the only one of the Cayuse Syrahs that is cofermented cate saltiness and minerality keep the flavors develop- with Viognier. This explodes with flavors of blueberries, ing onto the long, fascinating finish. Cellar Selection. Cayuse 2009 Flying Pig Cabernet Franc- soy, earth, black tea, iodine, anise and salt, plus a hint of —P.G. 93 Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). The Flying Pig sassafras. Notes of herb and cured meat add further in- abv: 14.6% Price: $80 is a blend of 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Merlot. terest to this unique, captivating effort. —P.G. Bursting with a ripe, succulent cherry flavor, it offers abv: 14.8% Price: $75 Tero Estates 2007 Windrow Vineyards layers of blackberry and spice, with floral highlights of 95 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Wal- talcum powder and rose. It’s has a potpourri tone that Cayuse 2009 En Cerise Vineyard Syrah la Valley). This is superstrong Cabernet Sauvignon, dots the long, spicy finish. Perfect for ribs in a sweet 94 (Walla Walla Valley). Flavors of blackberry, with precise, concentrated flavors of brambly old-vine barbecue sauce. —P.G. black cherry and a streak of cola ignite the palate, with a fruit taking center stage. The wine spent 33 months in abv: 14.8% Price: $80 layer of pure mineral underneath. At first a bit delicate, this never pauses, introducing umami and cinnamon

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 Abacela NV Vintner’s Blend #12 (South- The flavors continue onto a finish that’s rich with kirsch DESSERT WINE 90 ern Oregon). This blend of Tempranillo, Mal- and coffee. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. bec, Dolcetto, Merlot and Syrah could have turned into abv: 14.5% Price: $26 J. Scott Cellars 2010 Mistelle Petite Sirah a generic red, yet it is seamless and nicely proportioned. 91 (Rogue Valley). Capturing the dense essence It’s a real crowd-pleaser, with a ripe red-fruit flavor and Abacela 2009 Dolcetto (Umpqua Val- of Petite Sirah, this marries deep berry flavor to a high- generous new-barrel-derived toast and spice notes. 89 ley). Big, bold and outright luscious, this es- light of Bourbon-soaked chocolate. It’s not overly sweet, Best Buy. —P.G. tate-grown Dolcetto mixes bright flavors of berries and but it’s definitely a dessert wine. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 plums with a dusting of cocoa powder and cinnamon abv: 18.5% Price: $24/375 ml spice. A flavor of baking spice wafts through, despite the Tero Estates 2009 Windrow Vineyards fact that the wine was kept in neutral cooperage. The 90 Windrow Red (Walla Walla Valley). This is finish is long and just a little on the chalky side. —P.G. VIRGINIA a field blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, abv: 13.9% Price: $22 10% Cabernet Franc and 6% Malbec. Some overt stem- CHARDONNAY my notes are present, lending a bitterness to the finish J. Scott Cellars 2010 Petite Sirah (Rogue Linden 2009 Hardscrabble Chardonnay that may not be for all palates. But the wine carries a Valley). Here is a full-throttle mouthful of 89 (Virginia). Winemaker Jim Law has fashioned thread of sweet berry as well, suggesting that not all of brambly berry fruit, with generous accents of dried herb 90 a finessed Chardonnay that offers impressive purity and the grapes were equally ripe. An interesting wine, and it and underbrush. The melding of fruit and herb is per- minerality, bearing Burgundian-like qualities. Notes of should improve with further bottle age. —P.G. fect, with clean, polished tannins. —P.G. pear, green apple, kiwi and white currant are offset by a abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.1% Price: $27 lemon-lime edge. It’s all layered with streaks of blonde caramel and toasted hazelnut that add richness. The Merrill Cellars 2010 Cotes du Rogue Red Seven Bridges 2009 Golden Ridge Vine- (Oregon). palate is clean, linear and vibrant, with a modicum of 86 This G-S-M blend is solid and fla- yard Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). This 89 clove and a vein of liquid stone. The finish remains fresh vorful, with mixed berry flavors and an underpinning of is the best of the new releases from Seven Bridges, a graphite. The tannins are drying, on the edge of being and lifted. Editors’ Choice. —A.H. Portland-based winery with a penchant for Washington chalky. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $33 State fruit. Smooth, balanced and mouth-filling, this of- abv: 13.4% Price: $21 fers a truffle highlight that sits over the bright berry and Potomac Point 2010 Richland Reserve Pheasant Valley Winery NV River City cherry flavors. —P.G. 88 Chardonnay (Virginia). This smells deep 82 Red (Columbia Gorge). This mix of Prim- abv: 14.8% Price: $26 and bass-like, with resonating notes of honeyed white itivo, Tempranillo and Syrah has an overripe, pruny currant, spiced breakfast toast and apricot preserves, ac- Abacela 2009 Malbec (Southern Ore- aroma, heightened by noticeable volatility. The stewed cented with touches of caramel and toasted nut. It feels gon). Tight and tannic, with an herbal edge, black-fruit flavor is sharp and quick to finish. —P.G. 87 round, rich and opulent, with a nice lift of acids that give abv: 13.9% Price: $26 this stiff and rather unyielding wine remains a bit puz- the wine some spring. —A.H. zling. Hints of cranberry, mulberry and blueberry are abv: 14.3% Price: $22 somewhat overtaken by herbal, earthy notes. —P.G. OTHER RED WINES abv: 14.1% Price: $25 Shenandoah 2011 Founder’s Reserve 86 Chardonnay (Shenandoah Valley). Toasty Cayuse 2009 God Only Knows Grenache Abacela 2009 Tannat (Umpqua Valley). and honeyed in scent, this has aromas of glazed apples 95 (Walla Walla Valley). This Grenache leaps 87 Add Tannat to the long list of innovative efforts and pears, butterscotch and an edge of Meyer lemon into another dimension, with more concentration, by this pioneering southern Oregon winery. Grapy and zest. Medium to full bodied, the palate is vibrant and earth, umami and salinity than ever before, yet it retains fruity, with chewy, substantial tannins for which this expressive, with the lemon note carrying the finish. its elegance thanks to a crisp finish of raspberry and rock grape is known, this is a steak-ready wine, with upfront —A.H. flavors. Reminiscent in a way to high-altitude Argentine flavor. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $20 Malbec, this will cellar well for a decade or more. Cel- abv: 14.2% Price: $30 lar Selection. —P.G. Jefferson Vineyards 2011 Rsv. Chardon- abv: 14.3% Price: $85 Watermill 2009 Estate Mourvèdre (Walla 85 nay (Virginia). A step up from Jefferson’s Walla Valley). Scents of sour plum and truffle regular bottling, this offers medium-intense aromas of Tero Estates 2009 Herb’s Block Wind- 87 lead into a tight wine that offers tart red-cherry, plum white orchard fruit, wet wool and mineral, plus a subtle row Vineyards Merlot (Walla Walla Val- 94 and earth flavors. There’s a hint of funk and a metalic nuttiness. Light to medium bodied, it has a zesty mid- ley). Youthful and compelling, this 100% estate Mer- streak running through the tannins. Two bottles tasted. palate, with flavors that mirror the nose. —A.H. lot comes with a seductive smoky note. The juicy ber- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 ry flavor is rich and racy, while the barrel aging—50% —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $28 new—hits exactly the right toasty note. Cellar Selec- Trump 2010 Chardonnay (Monticello). tion. —P.G. This smells like a warm spiced-apple muffin. Melrose Vineyards 2009 Estate Grown 85 abv: 14.8% Price: $39 On the palate, the apple-like vibe continues, melding Pinotage (Umpqua Valley). Oregon Pino- 86 with a lemon accent. The acids are bright and keep the tage is not a commonly found wine—this is the first in Sineann 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel (Co- wine feeling lifted through the minerally finish. —A.H. 91 lumbia Valley). In this cool year, the Old Vine our experience. It’s a fruit-powered wine, with a broad abv: 12% Price: $16 Zinfandel from Sineann demonstrates considerable el- flavor of ripe berry that is supported by sharp acids and egance. Nicely balanced, it offers pretty raspberry and somewhat soapy tannins. —P.G. Ankida Ridge 2011 Chardonnay (Virgin- cherry fruit, with old vine touches of spice and a cer- abv: 12.3% Price: $28 84 ia). Honeyed and slightly toasty on the nose, tain brambly character. Tangy, tart and long lasting, this this has scents of baked apple, Bartlett pear and ba- would be a good one to cellar. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Chehalem 2010 Ridgecrest Vineyards guette. Light to medium bodied, the palate bears a abv: 14.6% Price: $39 85 Gamay Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Quite tart and broad white-fruit flavor with zesty acidity. —A.H. perhaps just a bit underripe, this red checks in at barely abv: 11.8% Price: $30 J. Scott Cellars 2010 Grenache (Rogue 12% alcohol. It has a bit of a Band-Aid scent that com- 90 Valley). Quite dark and dense, generous and petes with the light berry flavors. —P.G. Jefferson Vineyards 2011 Chardonnay ripe, this Grenache offers a mix of red and black fruits. abv: 12.1% Price: $24 84 (Monticello). A subdued note of vanilla cake

WineMag.com | 33 adds dimension to the broad, white-fruit-driven nose. and invigorate the palate. The flavors of tropical fruit, vibrancy. Alert acids shoot across the light- to medium- Medium in body, this easygoing wine feels a bit loose on nectarine and white strawberry are appealing, but they bodied palate with great precision, keeping the palate entrance, finishing with a subtle mineral hint. —A.H. would benefit from increased concentration and focus. frisky. A note of liquid stone and a spritz of lemon keep abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Try pairing this easy quaffer with light poultry-based the finish clean. —A.H. dishes and simple preparations of white fish. —A.H. abv: 13.1% Price: $24 Veritas 2011 Harlequin Reserve Char- abv: 13% Price: $22 84 donnay (Monticello). This Harlequin has Stinson 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Virginia). a faint scent of lemon liqueur that’s offset by a white King Family 2011 Viognier (Monticello). 86 Fermented in stainless steel and concrete, this pepper note. The medium-weight palate offers a lemon 85 High-pitched aromas of peach yogurt and apri- Sauvignon Blanc packs some pungency on the nose, blossom hint, and it finishes on the short side. —A.H. cot preserves come with mild intensity, leading to a pal- with aromas of green coffee bean, drying grass, peach abv: 12.5% Price: $26 ate that feels vital and elevated, with a flavor profile that yogurt and ripe apricot. Medium to full in body, the ac- leans toward tropical. It finishes zesty, with medium ids are dynamic enough to charge the flower and min- CrossKeys 2011 Chardonnay (Virginia). length. —A.H. eral flavors. Pair this with pan-seared sea scallops served 83 Mild in fragrance, the nose offers hints of pea- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 in a tarragon beurre blanc. —A.H. nut shell, waxy melon and white peach, with a faint abv: 13.5% Price: $22 thread of orange zest. It feels soft and relaxed on en- Pearmund 2011 Vinecroft Vineyard Viog- trance, but the acidity gains vitality across the palate, 85 nier (Virginia). This demonstrates Viognier’s Trump 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Monti- finishing zesty and light. —A.H. typical full, fleshy, intensely flavored palate, with tropi- 86 cello). This bottling resembles the New Zea- abv: 13% Price: $19 cal flavors of kiwi and bitter papaya seed, plus an ultra­ land paradigm of Sauvignon Blanc, bearing aromas of ripe note of honeydew and a hint of flower. —A.H. grapefruit, passion fruit and kiwi; a sprinkling of gra- Attimo 2011 Yesterday’s Song Chardon- abv: 13.7% Price: $25 ham cracker adds interest. The wine hits the palate like 82 nay (Virginia). Little aromatics can be dis- a fleshy fist, with an intense, grassy gooseberry flavor cerned, but if pressed, there is a lightly vegetative note Keswick Vineyards 2011 Viognier (Mon- that provides plenty of punch. Pair with apricot-glazed and a chalky, apple-like background. The light- to medi- 84 ticello). Fermented in neutral French oak bar- roasted chicken. —A.H. um-bodied palate features a broad, tropical-fruit flavor, rels and allowed to mature on its lees for eight months, abv: 13% Price: $16 plus energized acids. —A.H. this Viognier is expressive of toasty, flaky piecrust, pa- abv: 12.5% Price: $19 paya, melon and a touch of turmeric. It shows some vis- Doukénie 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Vir- cosity on the palate, with an almost oily texture, but the 84 ginia). The nose on this Sauvignon Blanc is an Veritas 2011 Saddleback Chardonnay bright acids are invigorating, driving the wine to a nutty amalgam of white pepper, toast, white peach and pear 82 (Monticello). The 2011 vintage was difficult finish. —A.H. aromas, highlighted by a squirt of kiwi juice. It feels for most Virginia winemakers as the harvest was notori- abv: 13.2% Price: $25 plump but medium bodied, with a bitter hint of papaya ously washed out with rain. This is a light- to medium- seed and a touch of lime on the midpalate. —A.H. bodied wine, with broad, white-fruit flavors that lack in- Tarara 2011 Viognier (Virginia). This is a abv: 13.1% Price: $24 tensity and character. —A.H. 84 restrained example of Viognier, compared to abv: 12.5% Price: $22 the grape’s exotic, expressive paradigm. It shows a slight bitterness on the nose and palate that’s akin to crushed WHITE BLENDS Autumn Hill 2011 Chardonnay (Monticel- papaya seeds, with additional notes of lemon pulp and Tarara 2010 Nevaeh White (Virginia). lo). Aromas of broad white fruits provide the flower. Full and hefty, the acids lend lift, but the con- 81 Rich, exotic notes of honey-glazed papaya and backdrop for the sweaty and cheesy overtones. It’s me- centration of flavors could use a boost. —A.H. 88 warm pear are accented by touches of white flower, gra- dium bodied, with diffuse flavors, but the acidity keeps abv: 12.8% Price: $20 ham cracker and lemon custard. The palate feels round the palate bright and lifted. It finishes on a soft, soapy and weighty, with flavors that aren’t as effusive as one note. —A.H. Tarara 2011 Reserve Viognier (Virginia). might expect. Acids provide enough spine to keep the abv: 13% Price: $14 Rich with aromas and flavors of blonde butter- 84 palate from drooping, with hints of clove and lemon- scotch, tropical fruit, white flower and honeyed nut, this grass adding interest. A blend of 55% Chardonnay, 45% Stanburn 2011 Chardonnay (Virginia). wine feels slightly flat on entrance, with a pudgy texture. Viognier. —A.H. This Chardonnay has a prominent scent of dusty The acids ultimately surface on the finish. —A.H. 80 abv: 15% Price: $35 chalkboard, with background tones of toasted butter- abv: 13% Price: $25 scotch, sweat and pear. The flavor intensity is subdued Tarara 2010 Charval (Virginia). Hazy aro- on this light- to medium-bodied wine, with a discreet Trump 2011 Viognier (Monticello). White matics of sautéed apple and baking spice mark note of hydrogen peroxide that surfaces late. —A.H. orchard-fruit aromas, like slow-cooked green 85 84 the nose, with notes of toasted nut and dill that surface abv: 13% Price: $15 apples and Barlett pears, are offset by flower and light on the palate. It feels full, round and supple, gaining spice accents. The palate is a little broad, but the wine some lift toward the close. —A.H. finishes with a lemony, minerally tang.—A.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 VIOGNIER abv: 12% Price: $19 Barboursville 2010 Reserve Viognier Tarara 2011 Boneyard (Virginia). This Veritas 2011 Viognier (Monticello). This (Virginia). Aged for 14 months in stainless eclectic mix of 42% Chardonnay, 28% Viogni- 87 has concealed aromas of white peaches, tropi- 84 steel with lees influence, this Viognier is expressive of 83 er, 19% Petit Manseng and 11% Pinot Gris smells a bit cal fruits and nuts. It’s medium bodied, with broad fruit peach, flower, mineral and crème fraîche. It doesn’t muddled, bearing notes of peach, apricot and the paper- flavors that lack individuality. It could make for a fine ca- pack the flamboyance that many Viognier’s do; instead, thin crust of caramelized sugar on a crème brûlée. It sual pairing with mild fishes like sole and tilapia. —A.H. it demonstrates poise, bearing medium body and bal- feels easy-going and unassuming, lacking some depth, abv: 13% Price: $22 anced acidity. A minerally tang and a squirt of blood or- but would be a good wine to pair with honey-glazed ange accent the finish. —A.H. grilled chicken. —A.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $30 SAUVIGNON BLANC abv: 12.2% Price: $15 Barboursville 2011 Reserve Viognier Linden 2011 Avenius Sauvignon Blanc 85 (Virginia). Medium bodied, this wine has a 87 (Virginia). Pure, intense aromas of grass, mel- loose-feeling entrance, but zesty acids quickly surface on, gooseberry and underripe peach hit the nose with

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 OTHER WHITE WINES Barboursville 2009 Reserve Nebbiolo in body, the palate has acids that feel slightly soft, with 87 (Virginia). Aged in 60-gallon barriques crafted fine-grained tannins that add some support. —A.H. Tarara 2011 Petit Manseng (Virginia). by the Piemontese cooper Gamba, this has oak-influ- abv: 13.5% Price: $50 86 Mild scents of honey-glazed apple, kiwi, flow- enced notes of cherry, strawberry preserves, pastis, nut- er and apricot preserves come with a citrusy edge. The meg and leather. Medium to full bodied, this wine feels Tarara 2010 SuperNoVA (Virginia). The palate feels rich and voluptuous, with supporting acids, round on entrance, with its tannins and acids picking up 87 restrained aromas of black mission fig, cumin, seed and cocoa are alluring but elusive. Full but the strength of flavors is on the shy side, making the steam as it progresses across the palate. The long, tangy bodied and muscular, the palate feels a bit clamped at ratio of body to flavor intensity slightly off-kilter. —A.H. finish tastes of bloody meat. —A.H. the moment, finishing with some warmth. A blend of abv: 13.8% Price: $23 abv: 13.5% Price: $35 67% Tannat and 33% Petit Verdot. —A.H. abv: 15% Price: $50 Barboursville 2011 Reserve Vermentino Barboursville 2007 Reserve Nebbiolo (Virginia). Intriguing aromas of lingonberry, 85 (Virginia). Fermented and matured in neu- 86 Tarara 2010 #SocialSecret (Virginia). dried herb, strawberry-fruit leather and sarsaparilla are tral oak barrels for seven months of lees aging, this Right out of the starting blocks this is an oaky layered and dark. On the palate, the wine feels refined, 86 has a scent reminiscent of slightly oxidized apple and wine, dripping with caramel and vanilla notes. The tex- pear slices, with supporting notes of blonde caramel, with a malleable core that’s framed by dry, textured tan- ture on the midpalate is finessed and graceful, with lemon­ yogurt and nectarine. Soft and lax on the attack, nins. —A.H. drying­ tannins that latch onto the oak-driven finish. An it gains vibrancy on the midpalate, ending with a pleas- abv: 13.5% Price: $50 eccentric blend of 50% Tannat, 35% Petit Verdot and ing lemon­ grass lift. —A.H. 15% Pinotage. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $25 Breaux 2006 Nebbiolo (Virginia). Scents abv: 15% Price: $40 86 and flavors of rosemary-crusted charred meat, Jefferson Vineyards 2011 Pinot Gris (Vir- raspberry and cassis liqueur balance savoriness with Tarara 2011 Boneyard (Virginia). Light to 84 ginia). White balsamic and beeswax notes pop fruitiness. The palate bears firm, chewy tannins that are 83 medium in body, this wine has a soft, malleable against the backdrop of white fruit and bitter papaya buttressed by uplifting acids. —A.H. texture that bears just a touch of tannic traction. It tastes seed. Medium to full in body, the palate starts out a bit abv: 13.8% Price: $38 of waxy cherries and herbs, with a cinnamon note on the flat, but the acids become more prominent as the wine finish that fades in and out. —A.H. progresses to the finish, ultimately ending with a tangy, abv: 13% Price: $15 minerally kick. —A.H. RED BLENDS abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Barboursville 2009 Octagon (Virginia). OTHER RED WINES 90 This Octagon is dark and charred smelling, with aromas of blackberry, cocoa, savory spice and cherry. Tarara 2010 CasaNoVA Merlot (Virginia). CABERNET FRANC The palate is tight yet finessed, bearing vigorous yet 90 For full review see page 10. abv: 15% Price: $50 Tarara 2010 Cabernet Franc (Virginia). manageable tannins that should eventually fade with time to reveal a charming wine. Flavors of graphite, 90 For full review see page 10. Editors’ Choice. Tarara 2010 TerraNoVA Tannat (Virginia). fines herbes and coffee grounds add interest to the fin- abv: 15.5% Price: $23 As Virginia wines can sometimes struggle with ish. —A.H. 88 acid retention, wines made using naturally high-acid va- Barboursville 2010 Reserve Cabernet abv: 13.5% Price: $50 rieties like Tannat are making waves. This bottling of Franc (Virginia). 87 Opaque purple in color, the 100% Tannat has aromas of dark cherry, pain grillé and Linden 2008 Hardscrabble Red (Virgin- nose smells equally dark, boasting integrated aromas of savory spice, with a grilled portobello underpinning. As- ia). An initial hit of game sets the scene for blackberry, cedar, graphite and charred sugar. Full bod- 90 sertive, strapping tannins lay the foundation, and the this savory Bordeaux-style blend, which has succeeding ied with tight tannins, the palate still manages to show uplifting acids add cut. Only 70 cases produced. —A.H. some finesse, plus dried herb, mineral and cocoa inflec- notes of tar, blackberry, rock, licorice and cocoa. Me- abv: 15% Price: $50 tions. —A.H. dium to full bodied, it feels poised, with accessible acids abv: 14.5% Price: $25 and well-managed tannins that bolster the palate. The Barboursville 2009 Reserve Petit Verdot earthy, expressive finish picks up a hint of cedar. A blend 85 (Virginia). Scents of blackberry compote, toast Barboursville 2009 Reserve Cabernet of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 7% and dried herb define the nose of this Petit Verdot, with 87 Franc (Virginia). Earthy and savory in scent, Petit Verdot and 7% Merlot. —A.H. a subtle meat influence adding interest. It has an open this has notes of char, smoke and turmeric, which are abv: 14.5% Price: $39 core and integrated tannins, but the flavors could use a layered over the black fruit foundation. The attack is boost in concentration. The slightly warm finish ends on pliable, with laidback acids that gain some brightness Tarara 2010 Tranquility Cabernet Sauvi- a dark plum note. —A.H. gnon-Tannat (Virginia). across the palate. A dusting of cedary spice marks the 90 For full review see abv: 13.5% Price: $35 finish. —A.H. page 10. abv: 13% Price: $40 abv: 15% Price: $40 DESSERT WINES Tarara 2010 Nevaeh Red (Virginia). The Linden 2008 Late Harvest Petit Manseng NEBBIOLO 88 oak influence currently sits high on this blend of 90 (Virginia). Gorgeous aromas of white currant, 50% Merlot, 35% Syrah and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, spiced breakfast toast, caramelized macadamia and Autumn Hill 2010 Nebbiolo (Monticello). offering notes of char, molten caramel, tea and smoky golden stone fruit are bold and unwavering. The pal- The bouquet of this wine leads with a note of 87 wood. It feels extracted, with easy acids and big, mouth- ate feels malleable and finessed, with precise notes of smoky strawberry, followed by scents of raspberry, an- clasping tannins. Cedar and dried herb accents add in- pineapple and mango purée that lend an intense, exotic ise, toasted baguette and cocoa. It has mouth-clenching­ terest to the finish. —A.H. edge. The zesty acids are impressive, keeping the finish tannins that are typical of young, Nebbiolo-based abv: 15% Price: $40 clean and elevated. Editors’ Choice. —A.H. wines, plus penetrating acids and an underlying sense abv: 11.8% Price: $28/375 ml of finesse. Dried herb and rock-like mineral inflections Barboursville 2008 Octagon (Virginia). mark the finish. —A.H. 87 Fruit tones of fig and raspberry are threaded Barboursville 2007 Malvaxia Passito (Vir- abv: 13% Price: $20 with hints of sweat, turmeric, herb and cocoa. Medium 89 ginia). To make this luscious wine, Muscat Ot-

WineMag.com | 35 tonel and the hybrid Vidal Blanc are air dried on open a bit odd on the nose, this has a strange whiff of per- Toasted aromas include popcorn and baked apple. The racks, causing the grapes to raisin, concentrating their fume and resiny oak. The palate is round and layered, palate is medium in weight and features racy acidity sugars. The result is a decadent wine with expressive with some minerality. Flavors of apple, pear and quince and not much midpalate. Flavors of oak-driven spice aromas of apricot purée, tea and baking spice, plus a come with a lot of vanilla and raw oak. The finish follows and white fruits lead to a fast-moving, acidic finish, with drizzle of caramel. It feels opulent and weighty, with a suit with toast and resiny flavors. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. leftover spice and resin notes. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. wash of zesty acidity and a zing of tangerine on the fin- abv: 14% Price: $23 abv: 14% Price: $22 ish. —A.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $35/375 ml Misiones de Rengo 2011 Gran Reserva Lapostolle 2011 Cuvée Alexandre At- 88 Cuvée Chardonnay (Leyda Valley). Peach, 86 alayas Vineyard Made with Organic Barboursville 2008 Malvaxia Passito (Vir- apple and pear aromas are smooth and easy to like. Grapes Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). The 88 ginia). Delineated scents of confectioners’ sug- The mouthfeel is juicy and fresh, which Leyda Valley cool conditions that defined the 2011 vintage in Chile ar, spiced mango butter, dried apricot and pineapple is known for, while the flavors of citrus, apple and nec- are draped all over this Chardonnay. The nose deals are rich yet restrained in aromatic volume. The palate tarine come with acid-driven snap. As a whole, this is notes of applesauce and oaky cinnamon, while the pal- is intense, with a hint of orange marmalade added to more fruity and focused than oaky and heavy. Misa Im- ate is sleepy, with very little happening. Flavors of spicy the mix. The vibrant acids keep the palate from seem- ports. —M.S. oak rest on top of white fruit flavors, and the finish is ing cloying. —A.H. abv: 14% Price: $20 neutral and acidic. Marnier-Lapostolle. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $35 abv: 14.1% Price: $25 Morandé 2011 Gran Reserva Chardon- Tarara 2010 Late Harvest Petit Manseng 88 nay (Casablanca Valley). Toasty pear and San Nicolas 2010 Sabrina Reserve Char- 87 (Virginia). Rich, with restrained intensity, this apple aromas are lush and nice for Chilean Chardon- 86 donnay (Maule Valley). The bouquet offers has aromas of toasted graham-cracker crumb, spiced nay. The palate shows good grip and a solid feel, while a dose of toast to go with a standard baked-apple flavor, orange marmalade, peach preserves and wilted rose. It the flavors of smoky apple, bacon, toast and citrus blend and the mouthfeel is plump and easy. Flavors of baked feels slightly pudgy on the midpalate, with a tapering nicely. Racy and juicy on the finish. Grupo Belen USA. apple and pear are friendly and round, while the me- finish that ends on a buttered-caramel note. —A.H. —M.S. dium-length finish delivers touches of vanilla and cara- abv: 15% Price: $30 abv: NA Price: $17 mel. Good for Maule Chardonnay. Montcalm Wine Im- porters. —M.S. Château Morrisette 2010 Frosty Dog (Vir- Concha y Toro 2011 Gran Reserva Se- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 85 ginia). Scents of exotic fruit and flower petal 87 rie Riberas Ribera del Rapel Chardon- come doused with a note of peach yogurt. Overall, it nay (Colchagua Valley). This is waxy smelling, with Santa Helena 2011 Selección del Direc- smells bright and high-pitched, but it lacks some depth. a coastal vegetal note that conveys cool-climate grapes. 86 torio Gran Reserva Chardonnay (Casa- It tastes sweet and feels pliant, with easygoing acids and The palate is short and clipped in feel, with a waxy, blanca Valley). This is a simple wine with friendly slender flavors of golden stone fruit. —A.H. mealy note to the wine’s core melon and peach flavors. pear and apple aromas. The palate has modest complex- abv: 11.2% Price: $20 It’s chunky on the finish and is a touch mealy in taste. ity, with fresh acids and a touch of oak. Core flavors of Banfi Vintners. —M.S. peach and apple finish with modest accents of toast and Tarara 2010 Whitie’s D9 A Big Bold Red abv: 14% Price: $17 popcorn. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. 83 (Virginia). As the name suggests, this blend abv: 14% Price: $10 of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon does taste big and Matetic 2010 Corralillo Chardonnay (San bold, but it also tastes hot and lopsided. It has a Port- 87 Antonio). This is a full and chunky type of New Loma Larga 2011 Chardonnay (Casa- like consistency, with notes of charred sesame seed, World Chardonnay, with an oily, mildly stalky nose that 85 blanca Valley). Pushy barrel aromas make the chocolate and dark cherry that lack precision. —A.H. offers corn and apple aromas. It feels big across the pal- wine smell like toast on top of applesauce and baking abv: 18% Price: $50 ate and tastes toasted and peachy, with a fresh apple spice. The palate shows modest acidity and some flat- streak for balance. The finish is defined by viscosity and ness, while the flavors run toward apple, mango and toasty apple flavors. Drink now. Quintessential Wines. resiny oak. The finish continues to be oaky, showing a CHILE —M.S. tropical flavor and sweetness. Winery Direct. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $16 CHARDONNAY Leyda 2011 Single Vineyard Falaris Hill Tres Palacios 2011 Reserve Chardonnay Concha y Toro 2010 Amelia Limited Re- 87 Vineyard Chardonnay (Leyda Valley). 85 (Maipo Valley). A note of apple is the most 89 lease Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). One sniff indicates there’s a fair amount of oak on this identifiable aroma on the fresh nose. The palate is clean This is heady for Chilean Chardonnay, with baked apple Chardonnay, plus baked apple and peach scents. The and lean, with lemon, orange, nectarine and mildly bit- and no shortage of toast on the bouquet. It feels fresh palate offers acidic rip and lemony cut, but it’s not too ter, pithy flavors. Racy and not at all oaky on the finish. but full, with polish and elegance to the mouthfeel. Fla- sharp. Tangy flavors of lemon and citrus are wrapped in Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.S. vors of apple and spiced squash end in a whirl of cinna- resiny oak, and the finish is textured and long. Winebow. abv: 12% Price: $12 mon and mild oak-related resin, while a final touch of —M.S. acidity keeps things lively. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20 Viña Casas Patronales 2011 Reserva abv: 14% Price: $35 85 Chardonnay (Maule Valley). This is an Viña Tabalí 2011 Reserva Especial Char- oaky, smoky wine, with cinnamon and hickory notes on Matetic 2010 EQ Chardonnay (San Anto- 87 donnay (Limarí Valley). Clean and minerally the nose and palate. There’s also ample pear and mel- 89 nio). Toasty and mellow on the nose, with aro- on the nose, but it’s not very aromatic or exciting. The on character along with tropical fruit and spice notes. mas of baked apple and papaya. It feels good, with lively palate is fresh and tangy, with orange, lemon, green ap- It’s resiny and chunky, but good acidity keeps it lively acidity that boosts the wine’s core texture. Meanwhile, ple and mild spice flavors. The longer the wine sits, the and balanced. Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery. flavors of toasted apple and quince get richness from more its acidity and raciness take over. Crisp and bone —M.S. vanilla and oak accents. Long, viscous and baked on the dry. Southern Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11 finish. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $26 Aguirre 2011 Reina Ana Reserva Char- Concha y Toro 2011 Marques de Casa 84 donnay (Central Valley). The oily popcorn Maycas del Limari 2010 Reserva Espe- 86 Concha Chardonnay (Limarí Valley). aromas are not a turn-off, but they do hint at the resiny, 88 cial Chardonnay (Limarí Valley). Dusty and

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 sticky palate. Flavors of honeyed white fruits, oak res- Granny Smith apple and green herb are fresh and cor- on the palate, with green banana and melony flavors. in, vanilla and toast lead to a short finish with a sugar- rect, while the finish is clear and refreshing. Drink now The finish is mild, green-leaning and bitter, with a flab- like sweetness. Good, but confected and a touch mealy. before it begins to fade. Winery Direct. —M.S. by structure. Global Alliance TR Corp. —M.S. Global Alliance TR Corp. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $9 abv: 13% Price: $12 Santa Carolina 2012 Reserva Sauvignon San Nicolas 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Cu- San Nicolas 2011 Chardonnay (Curicó 87 Blanc (Leyda Valley). Hailing from coastal 83 ricó Valley). This seems like it was probably 82 Valley). Flat on the nose, this has a mild whiff Leyda, this wine has a bouquet that comes with an oce- better earlier in its life. Now, it’s kind of wan and fading, of paint or turpentine along with touches of banana anic edge, plus grass and green fruit aromas. The palate with a maderized note of vanilla, plus white fruit. Mont- and melon. The palate is flat and chunky in feel, with is crisp and lively, with good acidity bolstering citrus, calm Wine Importers. —M.S. clipped, pithy flavors of mealy citrus. Montcalm Wine lychee, melon and grass flavors. The finish is cleansing. abv: 13% Price: $10 Importers. —M.S. Carolina Wine Brands USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.9% Price: $12 Sombras del Sol 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 83 (Colchagua Valley). This is mild on the nose, Sombras del Sol 2011 Chardonnay (Col- Santa Helena 2011 Selección del Direc- with a lemon-lime aroma. The palate is soft, but it has 82 chagua Valley). Tropical fruit, air freshener 87 torio Gran Reserva Cool Coastal Vine- a pulse. The wine’s citrus, melon and tropical flavors and bath soap aromas lead to a candied, sticky palate yard Sauvignon Blanc (Colchagua Valley). This finish flat. For the most part, it’s clean and quaffable. with a mix of sweet flavors that include papaya, pow- crisp, acidic Sauvignon Blanc leans green with pea and Banks Channel. —M.S. dered sugar and mango. The finish is confected and canned bean aromas, but it offers enough green apple abv: 13.5% Price: $8 soft. Banks Channel. —M.S. and citrus character for enjoyment. The palate is zesty abv: 13.5% Price: $8 and lemony, with flavors that include green veggies, Viña Casas Patronales 2010 Reserva herbs, limes and tangerines. The finish is mildly green 83 Privada Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Sundance 2011 Chardonnay (Maule Val- and citrusy. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. Melony and green on the nose, with an asparagus note. 81 ley). The nose is bland, becoming vegetal and abv: 13% Price: $10 The palate sports enough acidity to keep it afloat, but dull on the palate, with green bean and bell pepper the flavors shift quickly from lime and melon to peas flavors that are more normal for underripe Sauvignon Con Carne 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Cen- and asparagus. Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery. Blanc than Chardonnay. This finishes pithy and green. 86 tral Valley). For full review see page 13. Best —M.S. IBESC Wine Distributor. —M.S. Buy. abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $9 abv: 13% Price: $10 Flying Angels 2010 Reserva Sauvignon Arboleda 2011 Viñedo Chilhué Sauvi- 82 Blanc (Curicó Valley). This is flat, oily and SAUVIGNON BLANC 85 gnon Blanc (Aconcagua Valley). This is a waxy on the nose, which indicates that this 2010 offer- Concha y Toro 2011 Terrunyo Costa Los prickly wine, with a strong blast of nettle and green herb ing is past its prime. Melony flavors are soft and bready, 90 Boldos Vineyard Block 5 Sauvignon aromas. It has weight and texture on the palate, while and the feel is flabby and on its way to expiring. Arcadia Blanc (Casablanca Valley). This is about as racy as the flavors of citrus fruits and salad greens are pithy and Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Sauvignon Blanc from Chile gets. It’s green and melon- mildly bitter. Green and white pepper notes dominate like on the nose, with punchy asparagus and lime aro- the finish. Dourthe USA. —M.S. Sundance 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Maule mas. It is wide awake on the palate, where citrusy acids abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Valley). Shy and neutral on the nose except for push lemon, lime, green herb and lemongrass flavors. 82 a touch of apple. The palate is hollow and citric, with It cuts like a razor; drink with shellfish. Banfi Vintners. Miguel Torres 2012 Las Mulas Reserve racy lime flavors that end tangy. This is short on sub- —M.S. 85 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Valley). Punchy stance and offers minimal character. IBESC Wine Dis- abv: 13% Price: $25 and prickly up front, this has sharp aromas, which sig- nal that the grapes were picked early in a hot vintage. tributor. —M.S. Undurraga 2011 T.H. Sauvignon Blanc Flavors of nettle, white pepper and jalapeño rest on a abv: 13% Price: $9 (Leyda Valley). This wine consistently shows zesty palate. This wine finishes with snap and freshness. 90 Viña Requingua 2012 Puerto Viejo Re- off its excellence and purity. This vintage is typically Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. serve Sauvignon Blanc (Maule Valley). aromatic, with scents of ocean, honey, green herb and abv: 13% Price: $12 82 The flabby citrus aroma is dusty and shows a tinge of grass. The palate is full, round and lemony, with scal- vanilla, which is an aroma that isn’t normally associated lion, lime, melon and tarragon flavors. Will pair well Lomas del Valle 2011 Coastal Cool Cli- with Sauvignon Blanc. The palate is big and globby, with with shellfish and ceviche. Testa Wines Of The World. 84 mate Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Val- an oily note and flavors of citrus, green herb and nettle. —M.S. ley). Orange and lime aromas control the nose on this Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20 spritzy, tangy wine that literally shows bubbles in the glass. The flavors are lemony and sharp, with a grassy abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Concha y Toro 2011 Serie Riberas Gran accent. Tasted twice. Winery Direct. —M.S. Santa Helena 2011 Vernus Sauvignon Reserva Ribera del Rapel Sauvignon abv: 13% Price: $15 89 Blanc (Colchagua Valley). This wine is Blanc (Colchagua Valley). There’s no denying this 81 made from fruit that was sourced from very close to the wine’s greenness: It’s draped all over the nose, palate Viña La Rosa 2012 La Palma Sauvignon Pacific Ocean. As a result, it’s ultragreen and vegetal on and finish. But that doesn’t mean it’s not a classy, struc- Blanc (Cachapoal Valley). Dusty, citrusy 84 the nose, with a palate that bears high acid and a flavor tured, tangy wine with length and clarity. It’s a food wine aromas form the greeting, while the palate is juicy in of citrus extract, plus touches of beans and peas. Misa for sure, with pickled, briny notes on the finish. Drink style, without much definition beyond zestiness. The Imports. —M.S. with ceviche, crudo and raw oysters. Banfi Vintners. flavors offer notes of papaya and nectarine. The finish abv: 13.5% Price: $17 —M.S. sizzles for a moment, then fizzles. Viña La Rosa USA. abv: 13% Price: $17 —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $9 Loma Larga 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Cas- WHITE BLENDS 88 ablanca Valley). This juicy white opens with Aguirre 2011 Reina Ana Villa Alegre Casa Silva 2010 Quinta Generación a blend of citrusy and grassy aromas. The mouthfeel is 83 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Maule Valley). 87 (Colchagua Valley). This is a punchy wine healthy and round, with good acidic cut. Flavors of lime, This smells sort of gaseous and mealy. It’s soft and fleshy that’s fresh on the nose. The palate sports a viscous

WineMag.com | 37 feel that’s related to Viognier and Chardonnay, while and black olive. Spicy and dry, it shows some mentho- Santa Alicia 2009 Gran Reserva de Los the Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris in the blend lated warmth on the finish. Marnier-Lapostolle. —M.S. 88 Andes Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Val- bring a citrus-like quality and an asparagus flavor. abv: 14.1% Price: $25 ley). This is a spicy number with a minty green aro- The finish quickly loses steam. Vin Divino. —M.S. ma along with cherry, molasses and smoke notes. The abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Concha y Toro 2010 Marques de Casa mouthfeel is edgy and lively, while the flavors of vanilla, 90 Concha Cabernet Sauvignon (Puente cocoa and herbal plum and berry are solid and com- Estampa 2011 Reserve Assemblage Sau- Alto). An opening of dense black-fruit, spice, violet and posed. It’s solid but a bit herbal on the finish. Halby 87 vignon Blanc-Chardonnay-Viognier (Cas- toast aromas functions as an invitation to this plump, Marketing. —M.S. ablanca Valley). The Sauvignon Blanc in this three- chunky, well-balanced Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate abv: 14.5% Price: $15 grape blend dominates, creating aromas of canned peas bears boysenberry, blackberry and cassis flavors, with and nettles. In the mouth, it’s round, smooth and just chocolate and molasses accents. Toasty, warm and rich Rios de Chile 2011 Reserva Cabernet citrusy enough, with a grassy flavor that’s mixed with on the finish. Drink now–2016. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. 87 Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). Overall this melon and peach notes. It feels round and solid on the abv: 14% Price: $22 is a full-bodied Cabernet, with full berry, chocolate and finish. Additions of Chardonnay and Viognier fill out the creamy oak aromas, followed by a solid palate that fea- blend. American Estates Wines, Inc. —M.S. Santa Carolina 2010 Reserva de Familia tures moderate acidity and ample oak influence. The abv: 13% Price: $19 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). For flavors of creamy blackberry and plum are dark and full review see page 10. oaky, showing chocolaty heft on the finish. Winery Di- Junta 2011 Reserve Viognier-Sauvignon abv: 14.5% Price: $24 rect. Best Buy. —M.S. 87 Blanc (Curicó Valley). The applesauce and abv: 14% Price: $12 tropical aromas are clean, and the palate feels tangy, Misiones de Rengo 2010 Gran Reserva with a cirtusy pop. Flavorwise, there’s citrus pith, lime, 89 Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon (Rapel Val- Undurraga 2009 T.H. Alto Maipo Caber- papaya and banana notes that reflect both the soft Viog- ley). Ripe, concentrated and bullish from the start, this 87 net Sauvignon (Pirque). Rustic smelling, nier and the zesty Sauvignon Blanc. Crisp and chalky on has a roasted berry aroma that leads to a saturated, tan- this has a leafy scent and red fruit aromas akin to cher- the finish. D&M New World Management.Best Buy. nic palate. The flavors on this full-bodied Cabernet run ry and raspberry. The mouthfeel is tight, jumpy and —M.S. from toasted and crusty to blackberry-like and miner- alert, and the flavors of cassis and plum set up a rugged, abv: 13.5% Price: $11 ally. Toastiness and a sense of darkness remain on the scratchy finish, with notes of carob, vanilla and coffee. finish. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. Estampa 2011 Estate Viognier-Chardon- abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 86 nay (Colchagua Valley). White flower, ly- chee and apple aromas carry the mellow bouquet. The Santa Helena 2010 Parras Viejas Cab- V Norte 2010 Gran Reserva Cabernet chunky-feeling palate bears powdery, sweet flavors of 89 ernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). A 87 Sauvignon (Curicó Valley). Powerful from peach and melon, mixed with greener notes of grass spicy, dry berry aroma forms a strong opening that’s the start, this has an herbal berry aroma, with a rubbery and lime. The 80% Viognier component is typical of the crisp, focused and slightly herbal in character. The pal- hint and a lactic element. The palate is chewy, dense warm climate: plump and oily, with a short finish. Char- ate feels juicy and tight, with crisp tannins that set up and rubbery, with creamy, milky flavors of blackberry, donnay fills out the blend. American Estates Wines, Inc. racy cassis, plum and mocha flavors. Clean and fresh on carob, vanilla and plastic. Generally speaking, this wine —M.S. the finish. Misa Imports. —M.S. is full and solid. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $39 abv: 14% Price: $15

Undurraga 2010 T.H. Alto Maipo Caber- Viña Santacruz 2010 Chamán Gran CABERNET SAUVIGNON 89 net Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). The aromat- 87 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Colcha- ic opening includes a forest-like note, plus mineral and gua Valley). Concha y Toro 2009 Don Melchor Cab- Jammy red-berry aromas come with a earthy berry scents. The palate feels chunky and wide, green streak. The wine is a bit hard in feel, with chop- ernet Sauvignon (Puente Alto). This iconic 92 with solid tannins that don’t bite or dominate. Flavors of py tannins. Sweet blueberry and graham cracker flavors Chilean Cabernet is firm on the nose, with cola, cassis, herb, olive, spice, molasses and cassis are typical for the are offset by saline and green accents, while the finish is cherry and leather aromas. It’s racy, juicy and powerful, Alto Maipo, while the finish is defined by racy acids that chunky and earthy. Wines to the World. —M.S. with flavors of cassis, blackberry, plum, nutmeg and cof- should allow this wine to age nicely for another five-plus abv: 14.5% Price: $25 fee that swim in harmony. This is big, but also elegant years. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. and clean. Drink through 2019. Banfi Vintners.Cellar abv: 14% Price: $25 William Cole 2010 Columbine Special Selection. —M.S. Reserve Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14% Price: $95 87 Arboleda 2010 Viñedo Las Vertientes gnon (Colchagua Valley). This is a restrained Cab- Cabernet Sauvignon (Aconcagua Val- Concha y Toro 2009 Terrunyo Vineyard 88 ernet, with spicy aromas of cherry and plum. It feels ley). The aromas here are a touch roasted, but once Selection Block Las Terrazas Unfiltered fresh, clean and juicy, with a balanced mix of herb, cher- 92 things settle, the bouquet is full of spice and leafy plum ry and red berry flavors. The finish is tight, focused and Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). The nose is aromas. It feels entirely fresh and lively, with modest fresh, with herbal shadings. Global Vineyard Importers. an attractive mix of cassis and mineral notes. The palate thickness, plus flavors of spicy oak and herbal, medium- —M.S. is more racy and wiry than dense and soft, with juicy, strength berry fruit. The finish is zesty and almost citric. abv: 13% Price: $18 flashy flavors of berry, cherry and currant. Those notes Dourthe USA. —M.S. all carry through to the long finish; drink from 2013– abv: 14% Price: $20 Junta 2010 Grand Reserve Cabernet 2018. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. Sauvignon (Curicó Valley). An earthy aro- abv: 14% Price: $38 86 Echeverria 2010 Family Reserva Caber- ma of compost morphs into vanilla, carob, bacon and net Sauvignon (Curicó Valley). Jammy, flo- Lapostolle 2010 Cuvée Alexandre Apalta 88 berry notes. The palate has a resiny, grabby feel, with ral aromas fold in graphite, blueberry and cassis accents. Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Colcha- oak-led flavors of charred leather, bacon, rubber and 91 The palate is tight and firm, with mild astringency due berry. D&M New World Management. —M.S. gua Valley). The welcoming blackberry and cassis to the strong tannins. It bears flavors of herbal berry, abv: 14% Price: $18 aromas are friendly and approachable. The mouthfeel saline and rubbery earth, and the finish includes green is lush, layered and grabby, with serious structure and herb and salt notes. Viña Echeverria. —M.S. Tres Palacios 2010 Family Vintage Cab- dark, handsome flavors of black fruit, cassis, tobacco abv: 14% Price: $18 86 ernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Rooty and

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 baked-smelling on the nose, this also has milk chocolate and a spice-dominant finish that comes with mint and and leaf aromas. It feels spunky and fresh. Herbal, leafy herbal notes. Vin Divino. —M.S. PETIT VERDOT flavors of roasted berries and spices set up the rooty, abv: 14% Price: $14 Casa Silva 2009 Gran Reserva Petit Ver- warm, baked-tasting finish that’s full in feel but short on 89 dot (Colchagua Valley). Bold cherry and complexity. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.S. Sundance 2011 Merlot (Maule Valley). A berry notes show herbal, reedy nuances, with a palate abv: 14% Price: $12 86 berry aroma comes with cola and herb notes. that’s deep and tight as nails. Flavors of toast, chocolate The palate is tangy and racy, and it delivers raspberry and spice ride on a core of dark berry, and the finish is Cono Sur 2010 Visión El Recurso Sin- and plum flavors, with a modest finish. IBESC Wine equally toasty and chocolaty, but also a tad hot. Vin Di- 85 gle Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Mai- Distributor. Best Buy. —M.S. vino. —M.S. po Valley). Leather, cheese, licorice, herb and toma- abv: 13% Price: $9 abv: 14.5% Price: $21 to notes define the nose on this snappy, crisp Cabernet that’s more racy and zesty than rich and deep. The finish Tres Palacios 2010 Family Vintage Mer- Viña Pérez Cruz 2009 Chaski Petit Verdot is wiry, but overall the wine is short on richness. Vine- 86 lot (Maipo Valley). Fresh on the bouquet, this 86 (Maipo Valley). This is quite prickly and herb- yard Brands. —M.S. has tomato leaf, plum, raspberry and spice aromas that al, with spicy, almost green aromas of snappy currant abv: 13.5% Price: $16 are similar to those found in simple Bordeaux. The pal- and cranberry. The mouth is marked by crusty tannins, ate is snappy and fresh due to its acidity, while flavors of bearing flavors of oregano, tomato and plum. It’s leafy V Norte 2011 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- cherry pie filling and red plum lead to a spunky, lightly and dry on the finish, with a crisp feel and lots of spice. 84 gnon (Curicó Valley). This opens with prick- oaked finish. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.S. South American Wine Importers. —M.S. ly herbal-plum and red-fruit aromas. The palate feels abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $30 blocky, with thick tannins, and the flavor profile offers black fruit in front of a resiny, dry finish that comes with Con Carne 2011 Merlot (Central Valley). Casa Silva 2008 Gran Reserva Petit Ver- overt oak influence. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. 85 For full review see page 13. Best Buy. 85 dot (Colchagua Valley). This is much differ- abv: 14% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $10 ent than Casa Silva’s 2009 Petit Verdot, which was tast- ed in the same flight. The ’08 is more hard, spicy and François Lurton 2011 Hacienda Arauca- Lomas del Valle 2011 Coastal Cool Cli- tarry, with a leafy, herbal aroma, plus some grittiness. 83 no Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Colch- 85 mate Merlot (Casablanca Valley). This The palate feels snappy, with a can’t-miss saltiness. The agua Valley). Mild raspberry and oak aromas make for starts out fresh on the nose, with a modest herbal ac- finish is long in length but short on fruit, with a raw feel. a timid bouquet. The palate feels edgy and acidic, with cent. The palate is lively and clean, with ample body Vin Divino. —M.S. herbal, oaky flavors of bramble and red fruit. It tastes and good balance. Flavors of cherry, plum and herb lead abv: 14.5% Price: $22 resiny on the finish, with high acidity that creates an im- to a mildly green-tasting finish. Winery Direct. —M.S. pression of sharpness. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14 abv: 14% Price: $11 CARMENÈRE Sombras del Sol 2011 Merlot (Colchagua Quasar 2011 Selection Cabernet Sau- 84 Valley). The nose is a bit prickly and jumpy, Concha y Toro 2009 Carmín de Peumo 82 vignon (Molina). This is prickly and grassy with a candied red-fruit aroma. On the palate, there’s 90 Carmenère (Cachapoal Valley). Intense smelling, with cherry candy and plum aromas. The pal- some grab and stickiness along with flavors of mint, and compact on the nose, this has cola, mint, cassis and ate is tangy and abrasive, with plum, herb, spice and woo-driven spice and berry fruit. It loses some charac- blackberry aromas that are tightly knit. The palate is green tobacco flavors. It’s tart and a bit green on the fin- ter on the finish. Banks Channel. Best Buy. —M.S. narrow and intense, with lightly herbal, reedy flavors ish. Arcadia Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $8 of saucy, savory berry and herb. This is a leading Car- abv: 13% Price: $8 menère, but it’s not as flavorful and substantive as prior Tres Palacios 2010 Reserve Merlot (Mai- years. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. Viña La Rosa 2011 La Palma Cabernet 84 po Valley). Light in color, this has a nose that’s abv: 14.5% Price: $149 81 Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). From ev- defined by a leafy, herbal red-fruit aroma and a rubbery ery angle this wine is sharp, raspy and brambly. The scent. The palate is light in feel and drying, with a spicy, Concha y Toro 2009 Terrunyo Entre Cor- mouthfeel is scratchy, while the flavors waver between dry red-fruit flavor and a buttery oak tone. Mellow and 89 dilleras Peumo Vineyard Carmenère being burnt and stalky to being shrill and sour. Char and leafy on the finish. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.S. (Peumo). This has a dense bouquet, with aromas of compost elements bring down the finish. Viña La Rosa abv: 14% Price: $12 beet, clove, mint, tomato and berry fruit. The mouthfeel USA. —M.S. is rich and saturated, with a rawness that didn’t exist in abv: 13.5% Price: $9 Carmen 2010 Gran Reserva Maipo Alto prior years. Flavors of mixed herb, earth and savory ber- 83 Merlot (Maipo Valley). Wet clay, tomato ry end with a long finish. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. paste, oregano and carob aromas form the bouquet abv: 14.5% Price: $38 MERLOT that’s more strained than smooth. The palate is lively and herbal in flavor, with a baked berry note that ends Viña Pérez Cruz 2010 Limited Edition Santa Alicia 2009 Gran Reserva de Los in a wash of herb. It gets better with airing. Trinchero 89 Carmenère (Maipo Valley). This is spicy and Andes Merlot (Maipo Valley). This is dry, 87 Family Estates. —M.S. soupy smelling, but in a good, savory way. The mouth- spicy and subdued on the bouquet, with a red berry aro- abv: 14.1% Price: $15 feel is creamy and chewy, with plenty of extract and soft ma leading the charge. Focused and fresh on the pal- tannins. It tastes herbal and a touch foxy, with spice and ate, it has spicy, mildly oaky flavors of toasty berry fruit. Millaman 2010 Estate Reserve Merlot berry flavors that lead to a sizable, chocolaty finish that’s Pinches of pepper and chocolate add weight and dark- 83 (Maule Valley). A leafy compost aroma shows weighty and round. South American Wine Importers. ness to the finish. Halby Marketing. —M.S. plum and berry scents. The palate has a fresh but chop- —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 py feel, with pasty berry and resiny flavors. Short, minty abv: 14% Price: $20 and herbal on the sticky-feeling finish. Hidalgo Imports, Casa Silva 2010 Reserva Merlot (Colcha- LLC. —M.S. Casa Silva 2009 Los Lingues Gran Reser- gua Valley). A hard, piercing blackberry aro- 86 abv: 14% Price: $10 88 va Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). As usu- ma forms the greeting on this full-bodied, dark-styled al for Casa Silva, this Carmenère is foreceful, minty, Merlot. Look for roasted, peppery black-fruit flavors herbal and spunky on the nose, with a bold fruit aroma. The mouthfeel is robust and juicy, and the flavors run

WineMag.com | 39 from herbal plum to berry to carob. The finish is herbal, Junta 2010 Grand Reserve Carmenère control the lightweight bouquet. The palate on this with length and texture. Vin Divino. —M.S. 86 (Curicó Valley). With aromas of black fruit, wine feels dry and raw, while a buttery oak note sup- abv: 14% Price: $22 earth, rubber and tomato leaf, this fits the bill for Car- ports the herbal, spicy and brambly flavors and the fiery, menère. The palate is snappy and lively, with drying, short finish. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.S. Misiones de Rengo 2011 Reserva Car- rubbery tannins. Flavors of zesty plum and berry are abv: 14% Price: $12 88 menère (Central Valley). Spice, floral red herbal and spicy, and it finishes with vitality and a scour- fruit and cassis notes create the bouquet and flavor pro- ing scrub of acidity and tannic clamp. D&M New World Apaltagua 2011 Reserva Carmenère (Col- file. The palate feels fresh and full bodied, and the finish Management. —M.S. 83 chagua Valley). Spicy aromas of olive, briar is chocolaty, ripe and medium in length and strength. abv: 14% Price: $18 patch and raw red fruit set the stage for this punchy, Misa Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. drying wine. This is more fresh and sassy than substan- abv: 14% Price: $13 Laroche 2011 Punto Niño Reserva Car- tive, with overtones of herb, hard spice and modest pep- 86 menère (Colchagua Valley). Big berry and pery fruit. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. Viña La Rosa 2010 La Capitana Barrel cherry aromas come with an oaky, loamy, while the ripe, abv: 14% Price: $12 88 Reserve Carmenère (Cachapoal Valley). creamy palate houses black fruit, spice and oaky flavors This is a full and chunky wine, with thick blackberry and that don’t go far on the finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd.Best Terrapura 2011 Carmenère (Colchagua varietally correct herb aromas. The palate has a firm feel Buy. —M.S. 83 Valley). This is a fairly lean and acidic wine, and good texture, while the flavors of herb, chocolate, abv: 14% Price: $11 with dry cranberry and herb aromas. The palate is dry- pepper and black fruit settle on a secure, fresh and live- ing and wiry, with a peppery, herbal red-fruit flavor, ly finish. Viña La Rosa USA. —M.S. Maquis 2010 Carmenère (Colchagua Val- plus a bit of rubber on the finish. Quintessential Wines. abv: 14% Price: $17 86 ley). This wine has a fairly compact and closed —M.S. nose, with black fruit and spiced plum aromas that are abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Morandé 2009 Gran Reserva Carmenère common for the variety. This is compact, firm and hard 87 (Maipo Valley). The opening is oaky, thus ce- on the tongue, with dark fruit and roasted meat flavors oops 2011 Carmenère (Central Valley). dar and balsamic aromas run roughshod over the cher- that are marked by some bitterness. The finish tastes 80 This is leafy and red smelling at first, then be- ry, roast plum and vanilla scents. The palate is wiry and and feels toasted and narrow. Global Vineyard Import- coming raw and candied tasting, with a herbal note. acidic, with flavors of herbal plum and cherry that lead ers. —M.S. Schwartz Olcott Imports. —M.S. to a driving, acid-rich finish, with an earthy, baked flavor abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 and a herbal overtone. Grupo Belen USA. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $17 Tres Palacios 2010 Family Vintage Car- 86 menère (Maipo Valley). Spicy on the nose, PINOT NOIR San Pedro 2010 1865 Single Vineyard this has a strong blast of olive and herb. The body on Kingston Family 2011 Alazan Pinot Noir Carmenère (Maule Valley). Typical of Chil- 87 this wine is full and well balanced, while the flavors veer (Casablanca Valley). This is a focused, cool- ean Carmenère, this deals a mixture of herb, spice, ol- 89 toward herbal, spicy black fruit, pepper and . climate wine, with cherry, raspberry and spice aromas. ive and gritty berry aromas. The palate feels racy and it The finish is short and spicy, with a severe baked and It’s edgy and fresh on the palate, with racy strawberry scrapes, while the flavor profile is defined by toast, black roasted character. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.S. and cherry flavors that are accented by chocolate and fruits, green-leaning herbs and licorice. It’s full in feel, abv: 14% Price: $17 spice notes. The finish is both tangy and zesty as well and it tastes minty and spicy on the finish. Shaw-Ross as spicy and chocolaty. Only 280 cases made. Kingston International Importers. —M.S. Tres Palacios 2009 Cholqui Carmenère Family Vineyards. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 (Maipo Valley). 86 This is an herbal, almost abv: 14% Price: $32 throwback style of Carmenère. The nose delivers a blast Santa Helena 2011 Selección del Direc- of tomato leaf along with a rooty, herbal aroma of red Leyda 2011 Lot 21 Pinot Noir (Leyda Val- torio Gran Reserva Carmenère (Colcha- 87 fruit suggestive of pizza. The palate is tight and smacks ley). On one hand the nose comes across burnt gua Valley). This is crisp, with a floral aroma and min- 89 hard with tannins, while the core flavors are roasted and and stalky, while on the other hand it’s toasted, smoky erality on the nose. It’s lively and solid in structure, with burnt, with a baked berry note and an earthy nuttiness. and racy, with pent up intensity. Overall, it’s medium in dark fruit, coffee and bitter chocolate flavors. Things Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.S. size and density, with a blend of herb, licorice, pepper become more herbal upon closer inspection, with some abv: 14.5% Price: $26 and red fruit flavors. Oaky, spicy and a touch hot on the warmth on the finish. Misa Imports. —M.S. finish, and it’s bright and juicy throughout. Winebow. abv: 14% Price: $10 Arboleda 2010 Carmenère (Colchagua —M.S. Valley). 85 Crusty aromas of herb, tar, black olive abv: 14% Price: $45 Viña Casas Patronales 2009 Reserva and baked black fruit set up the jumpy, high-acid palate, Privada Carmenère (Maule Valley). 87 Hard with flavors of herbal berry fruits, accented by green Matetic 2011 Corralillo Pinot Noir (San and compact on the nose, this has aromas of mint, rub- bean and pepper. Overall it’s a hard, baked and oaky Antonio). Dry raspberry and strawberry aro- ber, vanilla and metallic berry fruit. The palate feels 89 wine, with a strong herbal tilt. Dourthe USA. —M.S. mas come with a touch of vanilla. The mouthfeel is lively tight as nails but deep, and the flavors suggest dark ber- abv: 14% Price: $20 and jumpy, with ample kick to bolster the woody, toasty ry and plum along with herb. The finish is wiry in feel, flavors of berry and vanilla. The finish deals toast, wood- with lemony acidity and flavors of licorice and carob. La Playa 2010 Block Selection Reserve spice and resin notes. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. Block N. 13 Carmenère (Colchagua Val- Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery. —M.S. 85 abv: 14% Price: $28 abv: 14.5% Price: $15 ley). Black as night in color, this has heavy aromas of bacon, rubber and char that settle squarely on notes Viña Casablanca 2010 Nimbus Single Echeverria 2010 Limited Edition Car- of vanilla and creamy oak. The feel is fresh but shear Vineyard Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley). menère (Curicó Valley). A dark berry aro- 89 86 and tight, with flavors of herbal berry and spice, plus Baked red-fruit aromas come with tea, orange peel, ma comes with a distinct whiff of green. On the pal- a scratchiness on the chewy finish. Cabernet Corpora- rubber and creamy milk-chocolate accents. The pal- ate, the wine feels crisp and clampy, while the flavors of tion. —M.S. ate feels complete, with a friendly creaminess that sup- spicy, herbal plum and berry teeter on the edge of being abv: 13.5% Price: $12 ports the strawberry, plum and vanilla flavors. This is a green. It tastes briary and like tomato sauce on the fin- balanced wine that’s fresh and ready to drink. Carolina ish. Viña Echeverria. —M.S. Tres Palacios 2010 Reserve Carmenère Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25 (Maipo Valley). 84 Spicy, dry and leafy aromas abv: 14% Price: $23

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 Laroche 2010 Viña Punto Alto Pinot Noir terms of feel, with modest fruit and carob flavors that as well. The mouthfeel is entirely full and chunky, with 88 (Casablanca Valley). The light-framed aro- control the short finish. Protecom Wines. —M.S. grabby tannins in support of the spicy core flavors of mas of strawberry and raspberry are clean and citrusy. abv: 13.8% Price: $13 licorice, blackberry, pepper and espresso. Oaky, toasty The palate on this wine made by the Chablis-based and a touch hot on the finish. Viña Echeverria. Best producer Laroche is crisp, tangy and juicy, with flavors Viña La Fortuna 2011 Culpeo Made with Buy. —M.S. of raspberry and cranberry that are fresh and tight. A 83 Organic Grapes Pinot Noir (Curicó Val- abv: 14.5% Price: $12 clean, honest Pinot to enjoy now. Wilson Daniels Ltd. ley). Dark in color, this wine has an oaky and earthy —M.S. nose, with a compost streak. It feels full and stocky, and De Martino 2010 Legado Reserva Syrah abv: 14.5% Price: $20 it tastes of resiny oak and dry berry fruits. It finishes 86 (Choapa Valley). This Syrah hails from north- with a citrus-like juiciness. VinLozano Imports. —M.S. ern Chile, and it deals aromas of sweet black fruit, olive, Kingston Family 2011 Alazan CJ’s Barrel abv: 13.5% Price: $10 rubber and oak. It feels juicy and fruity, with racy black 87 Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley). This Pinot plum, wild berry and pepper flavors. It’s rather raw in Noir is raisiny on the nose but maintains a fresh out- Loma Larga 2010 Unfiltered Pinot Noir feel and modest in complexity, but overall it’s interest- look. The palate runs heavy, almost to the point of feel- 82 (Casablanca Valley). This wine seems ing. Opici Wines. —M.S. ing flat, while the flavor profile offers ripe berry, cherry strained, with a nose that’s outright lemony and pinched. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 and raisin notes. It’s plump and soft on the finish, with a The palate is surprisingly thick feeling, with a herbal resin-like taste. Only 48 cases produced. Kingston Fam- plum flavor and a weedy finish. Winery Direct. —M.S. Lomas del Valle 2010 Coastal Cool Cli- ily Vineyards. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $20 83 mate Syrah (Casablanca Valley). This wine abv: 14% Price: $38 is rubbery and gaseous on the bouquet, with compost, Santa Alicia 2010 Edición Limitada Gran creamy oak and milk chocolate scents. The feel is full Leyda 2011 Single Vineyard Cahuil Vine- 80 Reserva de Los Andes Pinot Noir (Cas- but jumbled with jammy black fruit flavors. Winery Di- 86 yard Pinot Noir (Leyda Valley). Aromatical- ablanca Valley). This is raw, sour, tangy and loaded rect. —M.S. ly speaking, this Pinot is rustic, roasted and rough, with with juniper and pine notes. Halby Marketing. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14 notes of leaf and asphalt. The feel is grabby and sticky, abv: 14% Price: $25 with chewy tannins in front of the chunky, raisin-like fla- Piggy Bank 2010 Syrah (Elqui Valley). vor. The finish is baked and rubbery tasting. Winebow. 83 Rubbery, plastic-like aromas of black fruits —M.S. CARIGNAN come with a burnt, smoky edge. There’s grip and acid- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Meli 2009 Dueño de la Luna Carignan ity on the palate, but the mouthfeel is jumbled, and the 87 (Maule Valley). The aromas are hard at first, wine’s flavors come across like wiry plum mixed with Apaltagua 2011 Reserva Pinot Noir (Cu- then rubbery and leathery, with a tarry black-fruit note. herb. It finishes hard, candied and herbal. Well-Oiled 85 ricó Valley). This is a fresh type of Pinot, with After the palate opens with aggressive, rubbery tannins, Wine Company. —M.S. a pointy bouquet containing herbal raspberry and nettle flavors of licorice and grapy, medicinal oak burst onto abv: 14% Price: $12 qualities. It feels juicy, fresh and lifted due to the acidity, the scene. Long on the finish, but with a lasting resiny Botalcura 2010 Litú Syrah (Central Val- while the flavors of raspberry and herb come with dry, flavor. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. ley). oaky, toasty accents. It’s peppery, dry and light on the abv: 15% Price: $45 82 This Syrah is heavy and minty, with plastic finish. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. aromas. The palate is chunky and citrusy in feel, with abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Oveja Negra 2010 Single Vineyard Cari- little body. Flavors of clove, mint and berry lead to a 87 gnan (Maule Valley). Graphite, black­berry, resiny, almost fruitless finish. Specialty Cellars. —M.S. Echeverria 2011 Reserva Pinot Noir cassis and toast aromas define the bouquet on this hard- abv: 13% Price: $12 85 (Casablanca Valley). Candied cherry and smacking, wide-bodied Carignan. The flavor profile plum aromas come with a floral note and a hint of citrus is dominated by rugged flavors, and the mouthfeel is peel. The body is a bit sticky and resiny, while a flavor of bouncy. Loud on the finish at first, and then things go RED BLENDS herbal cherry comes with a lactic, resiny angle. The fin- quiet. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. Emiliana 2008 Gê (Colchagua Valley). ish is dry, peppery and resiny. Viña Echeverria. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18 93 This Colchagua Valley blend smells of lead pen- abv: 14% Price: $12 cil, coconut, black cherry, spice and vanilla. The mouth- Morandé 2009 Edición Limitada Cari- feel is firm, solid and complete, with dark berry, fine Tres Palacios 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir gnan (Loncomilla Valley). This smells crisp, herbs and spice flavors. On one hand it’s fresh and alert; (Maipo Valley). Lightly herbal strawberry and 86 85 crusty and herbal. The palate feels narrow and acidic, on the other hand its dense and brooding, with coffee raspberry aromas are authentic and fresh. On the pal- and the wine’s core flavors of plum and boysenberry car- and dark spice accents. Drink now–2017; only 355 cas- ate, this is light and juicy, with snappy, lean flavors of red ry herbal streaks of pine and juniper. Resiny and tangy es produced. Banfi Vintners. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. fruit and dry spice. The finish is dry and oaky. Michael on the finish. Grupo Belen USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $92 Skurnik Wines. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $23 abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Emiliana 2009 Gê (Colchagua Valley). Undurraga 2010 T.H. Carignan (Maule Gê is one of Chile’s perennial best blends. It Concha y Toro 2010 Marques de Casa 92 Valley). This is bold and bullish, but also acidic mixes Syrah, Carmenère and Cabernet Sauvignon into Concha Pinot Noir (Limarí Valley). This is 84 84 and raw in feel. The opening berry aroma conveys a wild a lovable, complex whole. The nose is spicy yet suave, one heavily oaked wine: It smells like smoke, tar and side, and the mouth is racy and grating, with the feel of with cool berry, herb and olive aromas. It feels fresh, baked berry. The palate is short on substance and high fruit skin and flavors of plum and cherry. This captures full and clean, with olive, pepper, cherry, cassis, coffee on acid, so the flavors are racy and angular, and with all the rugged, hard-core side of Maule Carignan. Testa and chocolate flavors on the palate and finish. Only 452 the oak influence this wine smells and tastes charred, Wines Of The World. —M.S. cases made; drink now–2017. Banfi Vintners. Editors’ toasted and blackened. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Choice. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $92 Tacora 2011 Reserva Pinot Noir (Limarí SYRAH Kuyen 2010 Red (Maipo Valley). This Syr- Valley). This is dry, scratchy and peppery 83 ah-led blend offers a moderately intense nose, smelling, with a soft, plump mouthfeel, plus leafy, herb- Echeverria 2010 Reserva Syrah (Col- 92 with berry and cassis aromas along with herb and spice al flavors of baked berry and plum. Plump and solid in 87 chagua Valley). Jammy, dark aromas form a good opening, and there’s blueberry and rubbery notes notes. It’s full and structured, but not a bulldozer, and

WineMag.com | 41 the flavors of baked berry, cassis, herb and chocolate are Estampa 2010 Reserve Assemblage Cab- flavors that take on a baked character as it eases into a excellent. It’s very smooth and heady, with lots of com- 90 ernet Sauvignon-Carménère-Petit Verdot simple finish. Global Alliance TR Corp. —M.S. plexity. Drink now–2016. Global Vineyard Importers. (Colchagua Valley). This Cabernet Sauvignon-led abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Editors’ Choice. —M.S. blend comes with a deep, minerally aroma as well as abv: 14.5% Price: $40 with lush black-fruit, herb and spice notes. The feel is Tacora 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi- plump and smooth, while the core flavors are of black- 84 gnon-Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Lagar de Bezana 2010 Aluvion Gran berry, tobacco, raw oak and spice. It’s predominantly This has clove, cinnamon, herb and rhubarb notes on 92 Reserva Ensamblaje (Cachapoal Valley). round and ripe, but there’s more than enough crispness the nose. It’s creamy and pasty feeling, with a heavy dol- For full review see page 7. Cellar Selection. and tannic bite to keep things framed. American Estates lop of wood resin. Flavorwise, it’s sweet and candied, abv: 14% Price: $29 Wines, Inc. —M.S. with caramel, mocha and stewed tomato notes. Prote- abv: 14% Price: $19 com Wines. —M.S. Santa Carolina 2009 VSC (Cachapoal abv: 14% Price: $25 92 Valley). For full review see page 7. Viña Pérez Cruz 2009 Liguai (Maipo Val- abv: 14.7% Price: $40 90 ley). A hard spice aroma leads the charge, and while the nose is tough and closed, it harbors a solid DESSERT WINES Antiyal 2010 Red (Maipo Valley). Roasted, black-fruit element. Jammy, thick and chunky on the Errazuriz 2011 Late Harvest Sauvignon spicy and gritty aromas are common for this 91 palate, this has equally jammy flavors of blackberry and Blanc (Casablanca Valley). For South Carmenère-led blend from Alvaro Espinoza. The palate 90 herb. It remains chewy and rich on the finish, with a American dessert wine, this is at the top of the class. is full and ripe, with tannic grip. Flavors of buttery oak, molasses flavor. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Carme- The nose is light and offers nectarine, tangerine and vanilla, blackberry and olive lead to a toasty finish, with nère form the blend. South American Wine Importers. peach aromas, while the mouthfeel is honeyed and mocha and bitter chocolate notes. Overall, it’s an oaky, —M.S. plump, with orange marmalade, cinnamon and nutmeg ripe, strong-boned Maipo wine to drink now–2017. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 flavors. The finish is long and complex, and a touch soft Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. in feel. Vintus LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Bodega Volcanes de Chile 2009 Parina- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 89 cota Carignan-Syrah (Maule Valley). The Errazuriz 2009 Don Maximiano Found- aromas on this Carignan-Syrah blend are gritty and sug- Montes 2010 Late Harvest Gewürztra- er’s Reserve (Aconcagua Valley). Al- 91 gest asphalt, smoked meat and dark berry notes. It feels miner (Curicó Valley). While the nose on this though this blend smells a bit loamy and earthy, there’s 90 electric and tight on the palate, yet controlled, with rub- sweetie isn’t deep, it’s lush, inviting and peachy as they plum, cherry and cinnamon aromas that are frontal in bery tannins and plenty of herb, pepper, spice and lico- come. The palate feels fresh and straightforward, and their attack. The palate is serious and tight, with medi- rice notes to go with the oak-infused berry flavor. Vision the flavor profile blends tropical fruit flavors with spice um-strength tannins and flavors of baked berry, spice Wine & Spirits. —M.S. and honey accents. Overall this seems natural, easy­ and coffee. On the finish, pepper and olive notes enter abv: 14% Price: $35 going and expressive. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. the frame. Drink now–2017. Vintus LLC. Cellar Selec- abv: 12.5% Price: $27 tion. —M.S. Santa Helena 2010 Vernus (Colchagua abv: 14.5% Price: $95 89 Valley). This red blend is snappy but also jam- Santa Monica 2004 Late Harvest (Rapel my on the nose, with a blueberry aroma and a pinch Valley). This attractive blend of 53% Sémillon Escalera 2008 Red (Curicó Valley). This 88 of green. The mouthfeel is syrupy and big, with jammy and 47% Riesling offers a bouquet of petrol and apricot, is sweet and rich up front, with marzipan, bal- 91 flavors of baked berry and cherry. On the finish, there’s while the palate is lively, with honeyed flavors of cara- sam wood, berry and kirsch aromas. Expect a full and enough acidity to keep it fresh as the red berry and cas- mel, vanilla and apricot. It’s a bit sticky on the finish, but creamy mouthfeel, with a mix of herb, spice, olive and sis flavors take over. Misa Imports. —M.S. overall this is an eye-opener. Drink now–2015. Purple dark-fruit flavors. Extra spice notes in the form of clove, abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Toes Inc.. —M.S. nutmeg and wood grace the finish of this Carmenère- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Syrah-Cabernet-Petit Verdot blend. Drink now–2017. Millaman 2010 Limited Reserve Cabernet D&M New World Management. —M.S. 88 Sauvignon-Malbec (Curicó Valley). This is Miguel Torres 2009 Nectaria Vendimia abv: 14.5% Price: $49 one ripe wine, evidenced by its black color and raisiny 86 Tardia Botrytis Riesling (Curicó Valley). nose. Alongside the bouquet’s raisin element are leather This botrytis-affected Riesling is dark and unctuous, Santa Helena 2009 DON (Colchagua Val- and baked blackberry notes. The mouthfeel is saturat- with a nutty stone-fruit aroma and a petrol-like accent. ley). This Cabernet-led blend is compact on 91 ed, yet the wine remains racy, with deep berry, choco- The feel is tight like Sherry, while the flavors of citrus the bouquet, with clay, spice, balsam and rubbery ber- late and spice flavors. This seems generous throughout. peel, cinnamon and resin lead to a creamy, sticky fin- ry aromas. The palate offers fine structure and inten- Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. ish that comes with some heat. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. sity, with blackberry, toast, coffee and mocha flavors. It’s abv: 14% Price: $20 —M.S. long and chocolaty on the well-oaked finish. The blend abv: 13.5% Price: $25/375 ml contains 15% Petit Verdot and 5% Syrah; drink through Viña Chocalan 2009 Gran Reserva Blend 2017. Misa Imports. —M.S. 86 (Maipo Valley). Initial fiery aromas give way Aresti 2010 Late Harvest Reserva abv: 14.5% Price: $75 to notes of creamy oak, raspberry, plum and chewing 85 Gewürztraminer (Curicó Valley). The bou- gum. The mouthfeel on this blend of Cabernet, Car- quet is wheaty and honeyed, but not all that fresh. On Viña Santacruz 2008 Tupu Edicion Limita- menère, Syrah and Malbec is thick and syrupy, and the the palate, the wine feels chunky and full, with a nutty da Carménère-Cabernet Sauvignon-Mal- 91 flavors suggest lemon peel, jammy berry and oak resin. flavor of honeyed stone fruit. Melon, honey and hazel- bec-Syrah (Colchagua Valley). This smells intense Modest comlexity on the finish comes with a candied nut flavors carry the finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. up front, with tree bark, herb, spice and black fruit aro- fruit flavor. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. —M.S. mas. It’s focused on the palate, with tight tannins, gritty abv: 14.5% Price: $16 abv: 12% Price: $15 bite and crusty, dark flavors of peppery, earthy berries and herbs. Cool, long, sly and spicy on the finish. Drink Aguirre 2009 Reina Ana Gran Reserva Viña el Aromo 2010 Artemisa Late Har- now–2016. Carmenère, Cabernet, Malbec and Syrah 85 Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Maule Val- vest Muscat (Itata Valley). The nose on this comprises the blend. Wines to the World. —M.S. 84 ley). This is roasted to the max, with a very earthy nose, Muscat is flat and smells like applesauce and peach syr- abv: 14% Price: $60 including burnt leaf, smoked meat and heavy fruit. The up. Surprisingly, the palate is bright in feel, with am- palate feels a bit high in acidity, with cherry and berry

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 ple acids and flavors of tangy peach, apricot and honey. I Capitani 2011 Clarum (Irpinia). Falanghina driven aromas of honey and vanilla, with notes of exotic Wein-Bauer, Inc. —M.S. 87 and Coda di Volpe are blended to produce a fruit, citrus and Golden Delicious. It is soft and supple, abv: 12% Price: $15/375 ml rich and creamy white with apple, pear and stone fruit. with a lively, fruit-driven finish. Panebianco. —M.L. It only sees stainless steel and this helps maintain its abv: 13.5% Price: $55 fresh fruit flavors. Wineberry America LLC. —M.L. SOUTHERN ITALY abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Cefalicchio 2011 Lefkò (Castel del Mon- 88 te). Made from biodynamically farmed Bombi- FIANO DI AVELLINO no Bianco, this offers a creamy consistency, with clean SALENTO notes of honey, apricot, almond and vanilla cream. I Capitani 2011 Gaudium (Fiano di Avel- Compared to other expressions of this grape, this is Cantele 2011 Chardonnay (Salento). 90 lino). This offers creamy richness and notes dense and rich. JK Imports. —M.L. Here’s a fresh and easy Chardonnay from south- of apple-cinnamon, citrus and pear. The mouthfeel is 86 abv: 13% Price: $30 not too dense but is rather fresh and zesty. Wineberry ern Italy with citrus aromas that are followed by notes of pear and peach. The wine offers ripe fruit aromas and a America LLC. Best Buy. —M.L. Capolino Perlingieri 2011 Vento Greco touch of creaminess on the palate. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15 (Sannio). Loads of honey and yellow rose aro- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 87 mas open the bouquet. There’s a touch of sweetness Tenuta Sarno 1860 2011 Sarno 1860 (Fi- that recalls candied fruit and honeydew. Montcalm Leone de Castris 2011 Messapia Verde- 88 ano di Avellino). Huge floral intensity opens Wine Importers. —M.L. ca (Salento). Messapia is a solid and pretty ex- the bouquet of this Fiano di Avellino, with notes of 86 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 honeysuckle, rose and jasmine that are followed by ac- pression of Verdeca, offering a supercrisp citrus note, followed by pear and white flower touches. Pair it with cents of citrus, pear and a touch of rubber. The finish is Librandi 2010 Efeso Mantonico (Val di sushi or smoked salmon. Winebow. —M.L. creamy and soft. Caroline Debbanè Selections. —M.L. Neto). Here’s a powerful and loaded wine abv: 12.5% Price: $16 87 abv: 13% Price: $30 made from the Mantonico grape that features intense aromas of apricot, honey and almond. The palate shows Villa Mottura 2011 Le Pitre (Salento). This a creamy texture and a spicy finish. Winebow. —M.L. no-fuss blend of Chardonnay and Fiano offers GRECO DI TUFO 86 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 simple tones of citrus and pear that segue to a crisp, I Capitani 2011 Serum (Greco di Tufo). clean mouthfeel. Pair this fresh southern Italian white Vigneti del Vulture 2011 Pipoli (Basilica- 88 There’s a blast of pear and peach at the very with insalata di mare (seafood salad). Siena Imports. ta). This blend of Greco and Fiano shows a dry start that builds in momentum to include aromas of —M.L. 87 note of crushed mineral, followed by notes of peach, lemon zest and spice. The wine also boasts a naturally abv: 13.5% Price: $29 creamy and bold mouthfeel. Wineberry America LLC. honey and a touch of spice and lemon zest. Pair this with Thai mango salad. Worldwide Cellars. Best Buy. —M.L. Miali 2010 Pizzo del Vento Verdeca —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15 (Salento). This easygoing Verdeca delivers 84 abv: 13% Price: $12 slightly oxidized aromas of apricot and butterscotch, Mastroberardino 2011 Greco di Tufo. with bright touches of lemon zest and honeysuckle. 88 This gorgeous Greco di Tufo opens with bright Rubia Di Bra Llc. —M.L. ROSÉS aromas of pear, peach and crushed brimstone. In the abv: 12% Price: $10 mouth, it tastes fresh and fruity. Pair it with crab Leone de Castris 2011 Five Roses Rosa- or Thai vegetable rolls. Winebow. —M.L. Miali 2010 LussoBlu Sauvignon (Salen- 88 to Negroamaro (Salento). This opens with abv: 12.5% Price: $25 81 to). This oxidized expression of Sauvignon cranberry and sweet raspberry notes, backed by almond shows an off-gold color, with aromas of apricot and but- skin and grapefruit touches. It offers a fresh, simple Vesevo 2011 Greco di Tufo. Lemon terscotch. It tastes flat and broad on the palate. Rubia mouthfeel, with creaminess and restrained richness. 87 mousse, pear and peach notes open the nose Di Bra Llc. —M.L. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. of this fresh Greco di Tufo. There is a drying mineral abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $17 tone at the back that holds the wine together nicely. Vin ­Divino. —M.L. Miali 2011 Ametys Rosato (Puglia). A abv: 12.5% Price: $25 PUGLIA 85 blend of Primitivo (70%) and Syrah, this opens with sweet aromas of raspberry candy and bitter al- Cefalicchio 2011 Jalal Moscato (Pug- Villa Raiano 2011 Greco di Tufo. This ex- mond. The finish is characterized by a fresh blueberry lia). Made with biodynamically grown Moscato 87 pression shows ripe fruit and a bold, creamy 87 flavor. Rubia Di Bra Llc. —M.L. grapes, this fragrant white wine opens with honey, white style. Pear and Golden Delicious apple notes give the abv: 13.5% Price: $17 wine momentum and the added freshness it needs. Si- flower and stone fruit aromas. The mouthfeel is creamy and rich, with a touch of sweetness on the finish. JK Im- ena Imports. —M.L. Cefalicchio 2011 Rosato (Puglia). A gar- ports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 net color and amber highlights mark the ap- abv: 13.5% Price: $42 83 pearance of this biodynamic wine. It presents slightly oxidized aromas of butterscotch and apple, backed by A-Mano 2011 White (Puglia). Winemak- IRPINIA raspberry and strawberry tones. JK Imports. —M.L. ers Mark Shannon and Elvezia Sbalchiero have 84 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 I Capitani 2010 Faius (Irpinia). This fasci- crafted a light blend of Fiano and Greco with loads of 90 nating blend of Greco, Fiano and Falanghina lemon and lime flavors at the front. The palate is super­ (the great white grapes of ) is aged 8 months lean and bright. Underdog Wine & Spirits. —M.L. PRIMITIVO DI in oak to produce a thick, creamy wine, with spicy in- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 tensity and a candied fruit note. Notes of honey, butter- MANDURIA scotch and apricot all play supporting roles. Wineberry Matané 2010 Il Matané (Primitivo di Man- America LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. OTHER WHITE WINES duria). abv: 13% Price: $18 89 Here is a Primitivo di Manduria that Marisa Cuomo 2010 Furore Bianco Fior- opens with soft aromas of black cherry, plum, prune 91 duva (Costa d’Amalfi). This boasts oak-­ and tobacco. The wine is integrated and balanced, with

WineMag.com | 43 lingering tones of sweet spice on the finish. The palate the back. If oak is not your thing, don’t bother. Vin Di- shoot brand of Conti Zecca in the Salento area of Puglia. feels velvety smooth. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. vino. —M.L. This lean wine delivers easy berry aromas and a slight abv: 14% Price: $24 abv: 14% Price: $12 touch of toasted almond, with fresh berry flavors on the finish. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. Felline 2010 Primitivo di Manduria. This Leone de Castris 2008 Il Lemos Syrah abv: 14% Price: $14 88 pretty expression of Primitivo opens with 89 (Salento). A pure expression of Syrah, this ripe fruit aromas of prune and blackberry, plus notes opens with toasted notes of almond and spice, backed Mondo del Vino 2009 Codici Primitivo of sweet spice and moist pipe tobacco. There’s a soft, by dark fruit and prune notes. It shows a plush, creamy 85 (Salento). Some leather, teriyaki and cured chewy feeling on the palate, followed by bold fruit fla- consistency, with a spicy oak note as well. —M.L. meat notes give this wine a dark first impression. Ripe vors. Voliovino. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA cherry and raspberry jam flavors appear on the soft fin- abv: 14% Price: $20 ish. Touchstone Wines. —M.L. Feudi di San Marzano 2011 Sud Negroa- abv: 14% Price: $11 Feudi di San Marzano 2010 Sud (Primi- 88 maro (Salento). This bears a dark color with 88 tivo di Manduria). Fleshy, bold and well con- inky concentration. It presents ripe blackberry and centrated, this Primitivo di Manduria delivers sweet prune aromas, followed by chewy softness and a sweet SALICE SALENTINO fruit flavors of blackberry pie, prune and raspberry jelly. spice flavor. Vin Divino. —M.L. Leone de Castris 2009 Donna Lisa Riser- The wine is soft and chewy, with a bright note of fruity abv: 13.5% Price: $15 va (Salice Salentino). Plush and opulent, sweetness on the finish. Vin Divino. —M.L. 91 this wine doles out huge intensity in its black fruit aro- abv: 14% Price: $15 Leone de Castris 2010 Elo Veni Negroa- ma and its toasted oak note. It shows incredible softness maro (Salento). This offers ripe cherry and 88 and richness on the finish, with a sweet blackberry-pie Feudi di San Marzano 2009 Sessan­tanni blackberry notes, followed by bright acidity and a pal- tone as well. Winebow. —M.L. Old Vines (Primitivo di Manduria). This ate that bears medium density. It’s a great food wine to 88 abv: 13% Price: $50 Primitivo bears a dark, inky color, with bold aromas of pair with breaded veal, sausage or meatloaf. Winebow. blackberry jam and exotic spice. Oak-driven flavors of —M.L. Feudi di San Marzano 2010 Sud (Salice tobacco, cinnamon, toasted nut and carpenter’s shop abv: 13% Price: $15 Salentino). Rich and opulent, this opens with are almost too much. However, the wine does end on a 88 toasted aromas of spice and nut, backed by accents of sweet, fruity note. Vin Divino. —M.L. Feudi di San Marzano 2010 Sud Malvasia ripe fruit and blackberry jelly. The mouthfeel is soft, abv: 14.5% Price: $42 Nera (Salento). With its ripe berry and plum 87 supple and slightly sweet. Vin Divino. Editors’ Choice. aromas, plus its background tones of spice and dark —M.L. Torre Quarto 2007 Regale (Primitivo di chocolate, this is a pure expression of Malvasia Nera. A abv: 13% Price: $15 88 Manduria). This is a savory, elegant, concen- touch of sour cherry gives the wine a bright, fresh finish. trated effort that doesn’t show too much sweetness. Vin Divino. —M.L. Leone de Castris 2009 50 Vendemmia Dark fruit, spice, black olive and tobacco notes appear abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Riserva (Salice Salentino). Celebrating the on the silky close. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L. 88 winery’s 50th anniversary, this Riserva shows sweet ripe abv: 14% Price: $20 Luccarelli 2010 Ampelo Malvasia Nera fruit, with rum cake, blackberry jam and cinnamon- (Salento). This opens with a wet earth aroma, 87 cream notes. Some bright cherry and prune accents also Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Primitivo di plus easy notes of black fruit and prune. On the pal- appear. Winebow. —M.L. Manduria. Sweet spice, rum cake and dark ate, there’s a ripe note of fruity sweetness that gives the 87 abv: 13% Price: $16 plum open the nose of this dark and savory Primitivo. It wine roundness and softness on the finish. Gran Sasso is chewy and dense, with loads of ripe black-cherry fla- USA. —M.L. Botter 2010 Caleo (Salice Salentino). This vor on the finish. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15 boasts bright, chewy red-fruit and cherry notes, abv: 14% Price: $21 87 with a soft, round mouthfeel. Pair this with grilled sau- Palamà 2011 Arcangelo Primitivo (Salen- sage or gorgonzola pizza. Total Wine & More. Best Leone de Castris 2011 Villa Santera to). Huge black-fruit intensity rushes to the 87 Buy. —M.L. (Primitivo di Manduria). Villa Santera opens nose and gives this wine a sun-drenched, jammy feel 87 abv: 13% Price: $10 with jammy aromas of blackberry preserves and rasp- that is soft, but not necessarily sweet. In fact, this ripe berry tart, followed by slightly smoked tones of roasted Primitivo shows balance and a touch of refreshing acid- Castello Monaci 2010 Liante (Salice Sal- almond and pipe tobacco. This is fleshy, extremely rich ity. August Wine Group. —M.L. entino). Bright, brambly berry and forest floor and sweet on the close. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 87 notes open this bouquet of this 80-20 Nergroamaro abv: 15% Price: $18 and Malvasia Nera blend. Touches of cherry and sun-­ Pirro Varone 2008 Le Vigne Rare (Salen- ripened prune also make an appearance, especially on to). Made using organically farmed fruit, this 87 the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. SALENTO blend of rare indigenous grapes from Puglia opens with abv: 13.5% Price: $15 a dusty mineral shading, plus notes of ripe blackberry, Conti Zecca 2008 Nero (Salento). A blend prune and cigar box. It is sweet and chewy on the finish. of Negroamaro and Cabernet Sauvignon, this Leone de Castris 2011 Maiana (Salice 93 Domenico Valentino. —M.L. has amazing softness, with plush aromas of cherry, choc- Salentino). Maiana is a Negroamaro-based abv: 13% Price: $21 87 olate and sweet spice. The mouthfeel is clean and rich. wine (with 10% Malvasia Nera) that shows extremely This is one of the best wines from Puglia currently on ripe fruit, with tones of blackberry jam and maraschino. Botter 2011 Caleo Primitivo (Salento). the market. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. The finish is smooth and soft. Winebow. —M.L. This exciting selection offers spicy nutmeg and abv: 14% Price: $55 86 abv: 13% Price: $13 cinnamon notes behind the ripe fruit and prune aro- Feudi di San Marzano 2009 F Negroama- mas. A soft, slightly sweet finish is carried forth by the Palamà 2010 Arcangelo (Salice Salenti- wine’s medium density. Total Wine & More. Best Buy. ro (Salento). This pure expression of Negroa- no). The traditional formula for Salice Salen- 89 —M.L. 87 maro has been enhanced by rich oak influence, produc- tino red wines is based on Negroamaro, with a small- abv: 13% Price: $10 ing a bouquet redolent of spice, dark chocolate, cigar er percentage of Malvasia Nera. This pretty expression box and Spanish cedar. There are jammy fruit tones at shows notes of bright fruit, sour cherry, white almond Tenuta Cantalupi 2009 Cantalupi Negro­ 86 amaro (Salento). Tenuta Cantalupi is an off-

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 and a touch of tangy sweetness on the finish. August with tomato sauce and grated Parmigiano. Metropolis of Pallagrello Nero and Casavecchia grapes, this shows Wine Group. —M.L. Wine Merchants, Inc. —M.L. sweet aromas of chocolate fudge and maraschino, with abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 lingering tones of tar, black licorice and almond paste. The wine is incredibly smooth, rich and long lasting. Feudi di San Marzano 2011 I Tratturi Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. PUGLIA 86 Negroamaro (Puglia). Easy and fresh, this abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Cefalicchio 2008 Romanico Canosa bright Negroamaro opens with spicy tones of clove and nutmeg, backed by ripe cherry and prune. The softness Terre del Principe 2009 Centomoggia Riserva Nero di Troia (Puglia). This opens 90 offered on the palate would pair with white meat or (Terre del Volturno). Bold and inky, this wine with dusty, etched aromas of brimstone and crushed 90 pork. Vin Divino. Best Buy. —M.L. is made from the little-known Casavecchia grape. It granite. Wait a few minutes more for the plum and abv: 13.5% Price: $11 opens with notes of bitter chocolate, cherry, blackberry, dark currant notes to surface. The firm, polished tan- cured meat and savory crushed peppercorn. There’s a nins could use a few more years of bottle aging. JK Im- Feudi di San Marzano 2011 I Tratturi slight note of sourness on the finish that is balanced by ports. —M.L. Primitivo (Puglia). Inky in color, this wine abv: 13.5% Price: $30 86 hints of crushed granite and smoky campfire. Vias Im- has plump aromas of ripe fruit, blackberry jam and rum ports. —M.L. Antica Enotria 2010 Negroamaro (Pug- cake. On the palate, it is soft and smooth. Vin Divino. abv: 13.5% Price: $53 Best Buy. —M.L. lia). Organically farmed Negroamaro delivers 87 abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Terre del Principe 2009 Ambruco (Terre savory tones of ripe fruit, dried currant and leather. The del Volturno). This has bright aromas of mara- mouthfeel is lean and streamlined with pretty, but very 89 Racemi 2010 Anarkos (Puglia). This has schino, tobacco, bitter chocolate, prune and dusty min- delicate, nuances of wet earth and spice. John Given bold cherry and blackberry jam flavors, with eral. There’s a tightness to the mouthfeel that is rein- Wines. —M.L. 86 some warmth. It is dense and inky, with some chewiness abv: 13% Price: $25 forced by acidity and long-lasting berry flavors. Vias Im- and sweetness on the finish. Voliovino. —M.L. ports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $14 Antica Enotria 2009 Uva di Troia (Puglia). abv: 13.5% Price: $53 This bright Nero di Troia represents the values 87 Teanum 2008 Gran Tiati Gold Vintage of the natural wine movement in southern Italy. Organi- (Puglia). Almost too much of a good thing, cally farmed fruit shows simple aromas of cherry and 86 OTHER RED WINES this wine was aged for 15 months in oak to produce a wild berry, matched with a pristine, polished mouthfeel. Di Majo Norante 2010 Ramitello (Biferno super­rich and extracted red wine that is heavy, dense Lettieri & Co. —M.L. Rosso). Soft and plush, this blend of Monte­ and powerful. The bouquet is redolent of ripe fruit and 91 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 pulciano (80%) and Aglianico has beautiful intensity to exotic spice, and the finish shows some bitter tannins its long-lasting aromas of blackberry, maraschino, choc- and sour fruits. Gattopardo USA LLC. —M.L. Castello Monaci 2010 Pilùna Primitivo olate, exotic spice and leather. There’s a bright touch abv: 14.5% Price: $35 87 (Puglia). This bold effort opens with notes of mint and licorice on the finish. Winebow. Editors’ of jammy blackberry and prune. It is soft and slightly Tenuta Fujanera 2009 Arrocco Nero di Choice. —M.L. sweet, with flavors of of plush fruit and cinnamon. Fred- abv: 13.5% Price: $1 Troia (Puglia). Spicy and raw, this features erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. 86 tight berry aromas, followed by licorice and rum cake abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Torre Quarto 2007 Quarto Ducale Riser- accents. A blast of heat and ripe fruit appears on the fin- va (Rosso di Cerignola). This blend of Uva ish. K&L Wine Merchants. —M.L. 90 Cefalicchio 2011 Red (Puglia). Touches of di Troia and Negroamaro shows sophisticated tones of abv: 13.5% Price: $20 87 ripe cherry and strawberry emerge at the front toasted nut and spice behind the notes of ripe fruit and of the bouquet, followed by notes of cola and rum cake. Torre Quarto 2008 Bottaccia Uva di Troia prune. The mouthfeel is soft and smooth. Montecastelli The blend consists of Nero di Troia and Morellone, and (Puglia). This features savory aromas of cured Selections. —M.L. the fruit is harvested according to biodynamic princi- 86 abv: 13.5% Price: $24 meat and smoked hickory sauce. The quality of the fruit ples. Tight tannins appear on the finish. JK Imports. is dried and candied, with hints of cassis, prune and rai- —M.L. Librandi 2009 Duca San Felice Rosso sin. The finish shows acidity and an almond-like bitter- abv: 13.5% Price: $42 Classico Superiore Riserva (Cirò). This ness. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L. 88 Riserva shines the spotlight on the little-known Ga- abv: 13% Price: $18 Matané 2011 Negroamaro (Puglia). Lush glioppo grape. The wine opens with aromas of bres- and rich, this easy Negroamaro offers notes of 87 Feudi di San Marzano 2010 Negroamaro aola, spice, leather, dark fruit and rum cake. The fresh, ripe cherry and blackberry, backed by light spice and (Puglia). A note of jammy blackberry opens streamlined mouthfeel would appeal to consumers who tobacco accents. The palate is smooth. Empson (USA) 85 the nose of this easygoing, soft and plush wine. More don’t gravitate toward overextracted reds. Winebow. Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L. ripe berry flavors appear on the finish. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Antica Enotria 2011 Vriccio Primitivo Librandi 2009 Magno Megonio Rosso (Puglia). Notes of cherry and raspberry open 86 Teanum 2009 Òtre Nero di Troia (Puglia). 88 (Val di Neto). More than any other estate, Li- the nose of this organic wine. It is easy on the palate, This opens with savory aromas of cured beef, brandi has invested in research and experimental vine- with a lean, fruit-filled finish. Metropolis Wine Mer- 85 smoked hickory sauce and dried berry fruit. The mouth- yards to protect the indigenous grapes (like Magliocco) chants, Inc. —M.L. feel is fresh in terms of acidity but also gritty in texture. of Calabria. This wine shows the region’s winemaking abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Gattopardo USA LLC. —M.L. potential with its bright berry aroma, plus the loads of abv: 13.5% Price: $18 toasted nut and spice at the back. There’s a raw, slightly Antica Enotria 2010 Red (Puglia). Organic bitter almond flavor on the finish. Winebow. —M.L. 86 farmer and winemaker Raffaele Di Tuccio de- abv: 14% Price: $25 livers an easy 50-50 blend of Sangiovese and Montepul- TERRE DEL VOLTURNO ciano that bears simple aromas of cherry and wet earth. Lucania 2009 Grifalco (Aglianico del Vul- It shows a fresh, compact finish that would work nicely Terre del Principe 2008 Vigna Piancastel- 88 ture). This offers loads of freshly ground pep- 94 li (Terre del Volturno). Made from a blend percorn, backed by touches of caper and black olive.

WineMag.com | 45 The blackberry and plum fruits gives this wine a soft, Murgo 2011 Bianco (Etna). Fresh and lean, Duca di Salaparuta 2010 Bianca di Val- yielding feel despite the tannins. The fruit is sourced 84 with mineral notes of brimstone and crushed 91 guarnera (Sicilia). Here’s an opulent, struc- from vineyards at various altitudes on Mt. Vulture. Oli- granite, this blend of Caricante and Catarratto shows its tured expression of Insolia that shows the aging poten- ver McCrum Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. volcanic origins. The finish is characterized by dried hay tial of the grape and its ability to absorb the beautiful, abv: 14% Price: $14 and herb notes. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. toasted qualities associated with oak aging. It’s sophis- abv: 12% Price: $25 ticated and smooth, with peach, vanilla and exotic fruit Di Majo Norante 2011 Cabernet (Terra notes. Corvo USA. —M.L. 87 degli Osci). This offers a sunny, Mediterra- Frank Cornelissen NV MunJebel 8 (Etna). abv: 14% Price: $NA nean take on Cabernet, bearing bold blackberry and 83 Part of the orange wine movement, this literal- ripe fruit aromas, plus notes of spice, toasted nut, dried ly does open with a brown, bordering on orange color. Cusumano 2011 Jalé Chardonnay (Si- rosemary and dusty mineral. The mouthfeel is firmly Suspended particles give it a cloudy appearance and the 90 cilia). Soft and rich, this opens with perfumed structured and compact. Winebow. —M.L. mouthfeel is immensely spicy and bright, with lemon honeysuckle and jasmine aromas, backed by yellow abv: 13% Price: $13 zest, nutmeg, chestnut and honey notes. Zev Rovine Se- fruit, peach and melon notes. The palate is round, soft lections. —M.L. and creamy, with a fresh, citrusy finish. Vin Divino. Poderi Angelini 2010 Susumaniello (Tar- abv: 13.5% Price: $32 —M.L. 86 antino). Susumaniello is symbolic of the rise of abv: 14% Price: $30 southern Italy’s little-known indigenous grapes. This ex- Murgo 2010 Tenuta San Michele (Etna). pression shows austere, aged aromas of candied fruit, 83 This wine presents oxidized aromas of caramel Planeta 2011 Carricante (Sicilia). This ex- prune and worn leather. The mouthfeel is marked by and butterscotch, followed by apricot and pear notes. A 90 pression of Carricante shows a bright future for bright acidity and gritty texture. Domenico Valentino. touch of bitterness appears on the finish. Domaine Se- this native Sicilian grape. It opens with a drying mineral —M.L. lect Wine Estates. —M.L. note, followed by citrus, almond, peach and white flow- abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $55 er accents. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $36 Di Majo Norante 2011 Sangiovese (Ter- 85 ra degli Osci). Slightly bitter and sour at first, OTHER SICILIAN WHITES Baglio del Cristo di Campobello 2010 this bright Sangiovese offers notes of forest berry, cher- Laudàri Chardonnay (Sicilia). Planeta 2011 Cometa Fiano (Sicilia). 89 Aged for ry and raspberry. It would pair nicely with cheesy pizza one year in oak, this opens with peach, apricot, lem- Among the greatest expressions of Fiano, Co- or pasta. Winebow. —M.L. 92 on mousse, vanilla and toasted almond notes. It shows meta is a full and generous effort, with deep layers of abv: 13% Price: $12 freshness and a leaner mouthful than you might expect passion fruit and stone fruit, plus touches of vanilla, given the bold intensity of the bouquet. Maritime Wine honey and light spice. The concentration and fresh- Torrevento 2009 Torre del Falco Nero di Trading Collective. —M.L. ness is wonderful, and the wine would pair well with Troia (Murgia). Aged for 10 months in stain- abv: 13.5% Price: $32 85 steamed lobsters or buttery crab legs. Palm Bay Inter- less steel in order to maintain simple, clean lines, this national. —M.L. Nero di Troia opens with a spicy tone of black pepper, Feudo Principi di Butera 2011 Insolia (Si- abv: 14% Price: $43 backed by ripe blackberry and prune notes. There’s a 89 cilia). For full review see page 11. Editors’ touch of bright acidity on the finish. Majestic Imports. Choice. Planeta 2010 Chardonnay (Sicilia). For —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $17 full review see page 7. Cellar Selection. abv: 13% Price: $NA 92 abv: 14% Price: $43 Baglio del Cristo di Campobello 2011 Adènzia (Sicilia). Tenuta Rapitalà 2011 Grand Cru Char- 88 This 75-25 blend of Char- SICILY donnay and Grillo (aged only in stainless steel) makes a donnay (Sicilia). Tenuta Rapitalà steals the 92 great companion to fresh seafood dishes. The wine of- scene with this stunning warm-climate Chardonnay. fers loads of citrus and pear notes, with a chalky miner- ETNA WHITE WINES The wine shows huge intensity and persistency, with al overtone and bright acidity. Maritime Wine Trading lingering tones of apricot, vanilla, exotic fruit, pineapple Benanti 2008 Pietramarina Carricante Collective. —M.L. and a touch of toasted almond. It’s a sophisticated effort 90 (Etna). Made with the native Carricante grape, abv: 13% Price: $23 this elegant effort shows a dusty mineral nuance, backed that raises the level of Sicilian winemaking. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. by subtle tones of citrus and stone fruit. It shows struc- Baglio del Cristo di Campobello 2011 abv: 14% Price: $30 ture and acidity that will help it age for more years to 88 Lalùci Grillo (Sicilia). This shows pristine come. Wine Warehouse Imports. —M.L. Tenuta Rapitalà 2010 Grand Cru Char- qualities, with white flower, citrus, peach and honey abv: NA Price: $48 notes. The density it imparts on the palate is also im- donnay (Sicilia). Dedicated to Count Hugues 92 pressive and creamy. Maritime Wine Trading Collec- Bernard de la Gatinais (the winery’s charismatic for- Cottanera 2011 Etna Bianco (Etna). Very tive. —M.L. mer figurehead), this beautiful Chardonnay opens with 90 dry and dusty, this blend of Carricante and abv: 13% Price: $26 Catarratto does a great job of showing the volcanic extraordinary fullness and density backed by layers of exotic fruit, vanilla, spice and apricot. The finish is characteristics of Mt. Etna. There is fruit in the form Cusumano 2011 Angimbé (Sicilia). A creamy and long. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. of citrus, pear and melon, and the wine presents a tangy blend of Insolia and Chardonnay, this opens —M.L. 88 grapefruit finish, with a pretty mineral nuance as well. with a light golden color and fragrant aromas of honey- abv: 14% Price: $30 Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. suckle, white almond and stone fruit. It shows a thick, abv: 13% Price: $28 Donnafugata 2009 Chiarandà (Contes- creamy consistency on the palate. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $17 Barone di Villagrande 2011 Bianco 91 sa Entellina). This Chardonnay-based wine opens with deep aromas of yellow fruit, honey, rose and 87 (Etna). This Carricante offers aromas of citrus, Cusumano 2011 Cubìa Insolia (Sicilia). vanilla. It is creamy and rich, with lingering tones of al- white almond and cut grass. There are pretty touches of This 100% Insolia opens with a bright golden mond and sun-ripened citrus. Folio Fine Wine Part- 88 drying mineral and brimstone on the finish. Omniwines color and tight aromas of apricot, candied fruit, lemon ners. —M.L. Distribution. —M.L. mousse and pear. It shows nice intensity and a bright abv: 13% Price: $40 abv: NA Price: $19 note of bitter almond on the close. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $21

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 Duca di Salaparuta 2011 Kados Risigno- Donnafugata 2011 Anthìlia (Sicilia). A Planeta 2011 Alastro Grecanico (Sicilia). 88 lo Grillo (Sicilia). A pure expression of Gril- 87 blend of white grapes indigenous to Sicily, this 87 Alastro is a floral expression of Grecanico that lo, this offers clean fruit, with pristine aromas of citrus, bright wine opens with citrus and stone fruit notes, plus offers bright tones of honey, jasmine, rose and almond honey and white peach. The finish is crisp and stream- drying aromas of talcum powder and crushed mineral. blossom. This wine would make for a great predinner lined. Corvo USA. —M.L. It is an easygoing wine with fresh acidity that would pair drink by the glass. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA with trout or poached salmon. Folio Fine Wine Part- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ners. —M.L. Feudo Arancio 2010 Dalila (Sicilia). For abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Planeta 2011 La Segreta (Sicilia). Gre- 88 full review see page 11. 87 canico, Fiano, Chardonnay and Viognier com- abv: 13% Price: $16 Donnafugata 2011 Lighea Zibibbo (Sicil- prise the blend, offering pretty floral aromas that are 87 ia). Zibibbo is another name for Moscato, and wrapped with tones of lemon and peach. Palm Bay In- Tenuta Rapitalà 2011 Piano Maltese (Si- this dry effort shows the beautiful floral aromas associ- ternational. —M.L. 88 cilia). For full reivew see page 12. Best Buy. ated with the grape, which is often destined for dessert abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $13 wines. Honey, white flower and jasmine notes blend with the crisp, clean mouthfeel. This is a perfect aperi- Principi di Spadafora 2011 Don Pietro Valle dell’Acate 2010 Bidis (Sicilia). Aged tivo. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. 87 (Sicilia). This blend of Catarratto, Grillo and 88 in oak, this blend of Chardonnay and Insolia of- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Inzolia shows Sicilian personality, with bright lemon, fers bold aromas of white rose, honey and stone fruit, almond and sea breeze aromas. The palate’s freshness with a soft, round palate. The creamy finish would pair Duca di Salaparuta 2011 Colomba Pla- and lightness would pair well with grilled fish or shrimp. well with a crab cake or a spicy Thai mango salad. — 87 tino Insolia (Sicilia). Elegant and pristine, Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. M.L. this bears bright notes of citrus, honey, candied lemon, abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA pear and peach. The wine is silky and fresh on the finish. Corvo USA. —M.L. Principi di Spadafora 2010 Schietto Altadonna 2011 Grillo (Sicilia). This opens abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 87 Chardonnay (Sicilia). Clean and polished, 87 with a fragrant bouquet of white flower and this Chardonnay opens with very subtle tones of vanilla, honey, and it shows thick streaks of glycerine that run Feudi del Pisciotto 2010 Alberta Ferret- peach and passion fruit. There’s just enough structure down the sides of the glass. The wine has the heft and 87 ti Chardonnay (Sicilia). Full and generous, to create rich, creamy sensations. Montcalm Wine Im- staying power to pair with fried calamari rings. Opici this Chardonnay has been shaped by oak aging. It shows porters. —M.L. Wines. —M.L. an off-gold color, and it exudes notes of apricot, honey abv: 14% Price: $19 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 and vanilla. The palate feels creamy and smooth. Vias Imports. —M.L. Settesoli 2011 Seligo (Sicilia). This blend Baglio del Cristo di Campobello 2011 abv: 13% Price: $20 87 of Grecanico and Viognier offers a generous 87 C’D’C’ Bianco (Sicilia). Chardonnay, Grillo, bouquet with exotic fruit, pineapple, white flower and Insolia and Catarratto are blended in equal measure to Feudi del Pisciotto 2010 Carolina Maren- dusty talc powder. The wine also shows creamy thick- provide a fresh yet complex wine. It bears a drying min- 87 go Grillo (Sicilia). This oxidative style of Gril- ness in the mouth. Palm Bay International. —M.L. eral tone, backed by notes of citrus, sweet peach and lo shows notes of candied fruit, dried apricot, honey and abv: NA Price: $25 pear. A soft touch of fruity sweetness gives it roundness toasted almond. It will appeal to those who enjoy bold, and depth. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —M.L. creamy wines. Vias Imports. —M.L. Tasca d’Almerita 2011 Leone d’Almerita abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 13% Price: $20 87 (Sicilia). This white blend is the quintessential seafood wine. It offers citrus, stone fruit, crushed min- Cambria 2011 Suaviter Grecanico (Sicil- Feudo Arancio 2011 Chardonnay (Sicil- eral and pretty flower nuances. Winebow. —M.L. 87 ia). A tight, compact expression of Grecanico, 87 ia). Creamy, rich and loaded with apricot and abv: 13% Price: $20 this exudes aromas of yellow rose, citrus, vanilla and ex- peach, this would pair well with creamy vegetable ri- otic fruit. The pretty floral component would pair with sotto. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. Tenuta Gorghi Tondi 2011 Meridiano 12 poached salmon or trout. Tuttovino LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $9 87 (Sicilia). A 70-30 blend of Catarratto and abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Chardonnay, this wine offers enormous freshness in Feudo di Santa Tresa 2011 Rina Ianca the form of citrus blossom, white almond, honey, lemon Caruso & Minini 2011 Terre di Giumara 87 (Sicilia). Made with organically farmed fruit, mousse and leaf notes. It feels silky, crisp and light. 87 Grecanico (Sicilia). This Grecanico-based this blend of Grillo and Viognier shows zesty freshness Voliovino. —M.L. wine offers fullness and richness in the form of pear, and floral richness. The palate shows creamy heft and abv: 12.5% Price: $24 stone fruit and sun-ripened lemon aromas. There is a cleansing acidity. Vias Imports. —M.L. floral note at the back, with fresh flavors of exotic fruit, abv: 13% Price: $16 Tenuta Gorghi Tondi 2011 Rajàh Zibib- mango and papaya. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. 87 bo (Sicilia). This dry expression of Zibibbo abv: NA Price: $14 Feudo Montoni 2011 Grillo (Sicilia). (a grape normally used to make passito dessert wines), 87 Bright and fragrant, this has aromas of Golden opens with a fragrant bouquet of white flower and hon- Caruso & Minini 2011 Timpune Grillo Delicious, pear, white flower and honeysuckle. It has a ey, backed by a lean, crisp mouthfeel. The acidity offers 87 (Sicilia). Assembled and balanced, this shows touch of sun-ripened sweetness, followed by a creamy a big surprise. Voliovino. —M.L. bright aromas of citrus and exotic fruit, set against fresh texture. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $24 acidity. It’s an easy-drinking option for seafood or salad. abv: 13% Price: $15 Vinifera Imports. —M.L. Valle dell’Acate 2011 Insolia (Vittoria). abv: NA Price: $16 Occhipinti 2011 SP68 Bianco (Sicilia). 87 Fragrant and floral, with a bright golden color, 87 This blend of Albanello and Moscato opens this expression of Insolia shows a rich, creamy mouth- Cottanera 2011 Barbazzale (Sicilia). A 50- with an off-gold color and rich aromas of yellow rose feel, with orange blossom and candied lemon flavors. 87 50 blend of Inzolia and Viognier, this feels slen- and honey. There’s a touch of bitter almond on the pal- —M.L. der and tight on the palate, with a drying note of talcum ate. Louis/Dressner Selections. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA powder behind the flavors of citrus, honeysuckle and abv: NA Price: $NA stone fruit. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. Valle dell’Acate 2011 Zagra Grillo (Sicil- abv: 12.5% Price: $14 87 ia). With loads of white flower and honey notes,

WineMag.com | 47 Zagra (100% Grillo) is fresh and clean, with lingering Tenuta Rapitalà 2011 Grillo (Sicilia). This A light, lean mouthfeel gives this wine a bright, lively tones of almond skin, jasmine and orange blossom. The 86 Grillo opens with bright notes of citrus, kiwi, cut personality. World Wide Cellars. —M.L. finish is crisp and lean. Polaner Selections. —M.L. grass and grapefruit. Pair it with Thai spring rolls. Fred- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Cambria 2011 Terre di Sicilia Inzolia (Si- Caruso & Minini 2011 Isula Catarratto 83 cilia). A slight note of sulfur blows off fast 86 (Sicilia). Easy and bright, with fresh aromas of Valle dell’Acate 2011 Case Ibidini Insolia enough to reveal lemon, stone fruit and melon aromas. kiwi, exotic fruit and fresh green herb, this zesty Catar- 86 (Sicilia). A simple citrus aroma provides for a The finish is fresh but a touch watery. Tuttovino LLC. ratto would pair with fried fish or calamari. Drink now. fresh and inviting bouquet. Peach, pear and green apple —M.L. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. touches give the wine added brightness and buoyancy. abv: 12.5% Price: $7 abv: NA Price: $15 Polaner Selections. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Cambria 2010 Chardonnay (Sicilia). This Caruso & Minini 2011 Terre di Giumara 83 oak-aged Chardonnay opens with aromas of 86 Inzolia (Sicilia). This Inzolia offers clean and Cambria 2011 Bazia Bianco (Sicilia). This candied fruit and butterscotch. The bouquet presents fresh aromas of citrus, peach, white flower and garden 85 blended white shows simple citrus and mineral oxidized aromas, with creamy yellow-fruit and vanilla herb. A subtle touch of sweetness is found on the palate. notes, with touches of peach and Golden Delicious. The bean flavors. Tutto Vino. —M.L. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. mouthfeel is linear and direct. Tuttovino LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: NA Price: $14 abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Feudi del Pisciotto 2011 Baglio del Sole Colosi 2011 White (Sicilia). Fragrant and Corvo 2011 Bianco (Sicilia). One of the 83 (Sicilia). A blend of Inzolia and Catarratto, this 86 floral, this bright wine would pair well with fried 85 simple pleasures from southern Italy, Corvo opens with slightly oxidized aromas of caramel and but- seafood or baked Mediterranean fish. Honey and peach has steadily produced value Sicilian reds and whites for terscotch, followed by notes of apricot and lemon zest. blossom notes lead to a crisp, easy mouthfeel. Vias Im- many generations. This blend opens with peach, cit- Vias Imports. —M.L. ports. —M.L. rus and pear notes, plus zesty freshness. Corvo USA. abv: 12.5% Price: $8 abv: 12.5% Price: $13 —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $NA Cusumano 2011 Insolia (Sicilia). This ROSÉS opens with a pretty white-flower and honey Morgante 2011 Bianco di Morgante Nero 86 Planeta 2011 Rosé (Sicilia). Planeta’s fresh notes, followed by a thick and slightly heavy mouthfeel. d’Avola (Sicilia). A white wine made using 85 rosé (made with Syrah) shows attractive berry, Barbecued shrimp would make for a great pairing part- red grapes (Nero d’Avola), this delivers a pungent bou- 86 citrus, herb and sweet almond-paste notes. Palm Bay ner. Vin Divino. —M.L. quet, accented by honey and wild flower notes. It shows International. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $12 a soft stone-fruit flavor on the finish, with a bit of heft abv: 12.5% Price: $16 and power. —M.L. Duca di Salaparuta 2011 Calanìca Gril- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Principi di Spadafora 2011 Rosato (Si- lo-Viognier (Sicilia). Part of the extended 86 cilia). Light pink in color, this wine offers gen- Calanìca series, this Grillo-Viognier blend shows aro- Principi di Spadafora 2011 Alhambra (Si- 86 erous aromas of forest fruit and citrus. It has enough mas of honeysuckle and jasmine, backed by touches of cilia). A blend of Inzolia and Catarratto, this 85 depth and creaminess to pair with a spicy Thai mango cut grass and wild sage. In the mouth, it shows ripe yel- has a slender mouthfeel, followed by a bright citrus note salad. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. low-fruit flavors. Corvo USA. —M.L. at the finish. It’s an easy wine to enjoy with appetizers or abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $NA finger foods. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $12 Bonavita 2011 Rosato (Sicilia). This Ro- Duca di Salaparuta 2011 Calanìca Inso- sato is part of the natural wine movement, and lia-Chardonnay (Sicilia). This blend of In- Tasca d’Almerita 2011 Sallier de la Tour 81 86 it’s apparent. Aromas of apple juice and citrus open the solia and Chardonnay opens with easy layers of citrus, Grillo (Sicilia). There’s a touch of toasted al- 85 bouquet, with some evidence of volatility or instability. pear, kiwi and cut grass. Balanced acidity gives it infor- mond at the start, but then this Grillo revs up in the Fresh acidity is present, with notes of lemon and red mal, easy-drinking appeal. Corvo USA. —M.L. glass to deliver notes of citrus, stone fruit, crushed stone raspberry. Jan D’Amore Wines. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA and lemon tart. The mouthfeel is crisp and simple. Do- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 maines and Appelations. —M.L. Feudo Montoni 2011 Catarratto (Sicilia). abv: 13.5% Price: $13 86 Catarratto is one of Sicily’s most widely farmed ETNA RED WINES white grape varieties. This expression shows a mineral Corvo 2011 Fiore (Sicilia). Fiore is en- note, backed by citrus and almond blossom touches. Se- 84 gineered to deliver fresh and easy sensations Graci 2010 Quota 600 (Etna). Using fruit lected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. of white flower and citrus. The lean, zesty mouthfeel 92 that was sourced from the vineyards on Mt. abv: 13% Price: $17 would work with fried calamari. Corvo USA. —M.L. Etna, 600 meters above the shimmering Mediterranean abv: 10.5% Price: $NA Sea, this expression of Nerello Mascalese shows ele- Spadafora 2011 Grillo (Sicilia). Here’s gance and complexity in a streamlined, compact wine. 86 a light and easy Grillo that opens with citrus, Feudi del Pisciotto 2011 Baglio del Sole Flavors of cassis, tar, smoked bacon and dried herb are dried herb, stone fruit and honey. The wine feels fresh, 84 (Sicilia). This 50-50 blend of Inzolia and tightly wrapped together. Sherbrooke Cellars. —M.L. compact and dry. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. Catarratto opens with aromas of white flower and hon- abv: NA Price: $49 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 ey, followed by a fat, thick palate. Vias Imports. Best Buy. —M.L. Cottanera 2008 Etna Rosso (Etna). This Tasca d’Almerita 2011 Sallier de la Tour abv: 12.5% Price: $8 91 opens with a delicate note of black currant, fol- 86 Inzolia (Sicilia). Spicy, fresh and clean, this lowed by touches of smoky campfire and brimstone. would pair with fried seafood or spaghetti con vongole. Tenimenti Zabù 2011 Grillo (Sicilia). This Etna’s characteristic volcanic-soil fingerprint is evident. It offers pretty citrus tones followed by a drying mineral 84 light expression of Grillo opens with a pungent Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. nuance. Domaines and Appelations. —M.L. almond aroma, followed by citrus and stone fruit notes. abv: 13.5% Price: $55 abv: 12.5% Price: $13

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 Frank Cornelissen NV MunJebel 8VA tannins and a bright touch of fruity sweetness that gives of the most exciting red wines to emerge from southern 91 (Etna). Using fruit that was sourced from the it power. Winebow. —M.L. Italy in recent years. This is made with organic fruit, and high altitude vineyards of Barbabecchi, Guardiola and abv: NA Price: $NA it shows bright tones of raspberry and cassis, with some Tartaraci, this bottling opens with a penetrating dark- tones of toasted almond and light spice at the back. Vias fruit note, plus delicate aromas of spice and black earth. Benanti 2009 Rosso di Verzella (Etna). Imports. —M.L. It shows impressive, bright acidity. Zev Rovine Selec- 89 Elegant and full of volcanic character, this blend abv: 13.5% Price: $16 tions. —M.L. of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio opens abv: 15% Price: $45 with notes of brimstone, crushed mineral and delicate Planeta 2011 Cerasuolo di Vittoria. Cera- forest berry. There is a spicy, slightly thorny side to the 88 suolo di Vittoria is a light, fragrant red wine that I Custodi 2007 Aetneus (Etna). Part of the wine that becomes more apparent on the palate. Wine pairs with creamy shrimp risotto or white meat. Mea- 91 natural wine movement, this organically farmed Warehouse Imports. —M.L. sured and elegant in terms of intensity, it offers pleasing blend of Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio and Ali- abv: NA Price: $18 freshness. Palm Bay International. —M.L. cante shows harmony and elegance. It shows some age abv: 13% Price: $23 too, with aromas of tar, licorice, cassis, prune and dark Firriato 2009 Cavanera Rovo delle Cotur- tobacco. It feels supersmooth and silky. Casa Bruno. 89 nie (Etna). This opens with aromas of dried Valle dell’Acate 2011 Il Frappato (Vit- Editors’ Choice. —M.L. herb and rosemary, followed by notes of smoky camp- 88 toria). Il Frappato delivers loads of zest and abv: 14.5% Price: $35 fire and crushed granite. There’s a pretty feminine bright aromas of berry, chopped mint, cola and ginger. touch on the finish that appears as perfumed blue flow- There’s a note of black pepper on the palate, followed Pietradolce 2008 Archineri Nerello Mas- er. Soilair Selection. —M.L. by some almond bitterness. Polaner Selections. —M.L. 91 calese (Etna). This is an elegant wine that abv: NA Price: $32 abv: 13% Price: $20 opens with aromas of blue flower, cassis, ginger, tar, cola and licorice. There are blasts of fresh mint and spice Frank Cornelissen NV MunJebel 8 (Etna). Feudi del Pisciotto 2009 Giambattista on the polished, streamlined finish. Bacchanal Wines. 89 Made from Nerello Mascalese that was harvest- 87 Valli (Cerasuolo di Vittoria). This blend of —M.L. ed in 2010 and 2011, this dry wine opens with bold aro- Nero d’Avola and Frappato delivers a tight, compact abv: NA Price: $NA mas of berry, dried fruit and cassis. Tangy acidity gives mouthfeel, with lively aromas of forest berry, blueberry the wine a bright and lively mouthfeel. Overall, it’s silky, and white almond. Pair it with roast chicken or pork. Barone di Villagrande 2010 Rosso (Etna). long and intense. Zev Rovine Selections. —M.L. Vias Imports. —M.L. 90 Beautifully etched mineral notes of granite and abv: 15% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $21 lead pencil are followed by touches of cassis and small forest berry. This is firm and elegant, with long, polished Cottanera 2011 Barbazzale (Etna). Made tannins that give the wine power and character. Omni- 88 from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuc- OTHER SICILIAN REDS wines Distribution. —M.L. cio, this shows bright berry aromas of blackberry and COS 2007 Contrada Nero d’Avola (Si- cassis, with cola, dried ginger and polished mineral abv: NA Price: $19 cilia). This expression of Nero d’Avola paints notes. The mouthfeel is clean and bright, with a touch 93 a rosy picture of the future of this indigenous variety Frank Cornelissen NV MunJebel 7 10th of chopped mint. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. and Sicilian winemaking in general. Aged in large casks Anniversary (Etna). This is a unique wine for —M.L. 90 and cement, this is elegant and fine, with an extremely enthusiasts of the natural wine movement. It shows a abv: 13% Price: $14 polished texture. The finish is marked by a note of dried dark garnet color, with spicy aromas of dried fruit, cur- berry fruit, plus warm, earthy tones of leather and dried rant and Indian spice. A bright tone of dried mint and Frank Cornelissen NV Contadino 9 spice. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. rosemary lingers on the finish. Zev Rovine Selections. (Etna). The ninth edition of Contadino (the 88 —M.L. fruit is from the 2011 harvest) is made from a wild —M.L. abv: NA Price: $85 abv: 13.5% Price: $75 blend of Nerello Mascalese (70%), Nerello Cappuccio, Alicante Boushet, Uva Francesca, Minella Nera, Mi- Principi di Spadafora 2008 Sole dei Padri Frank Cornelissen NV MunJebel 8MC nella Bianca and Insolia. The wine shows an amazing- Syrah (Sicilia). Francesco Spadafora makes (Etna). Ruby in color, this wine offers intense ly spicy quality that awakens the palate with a sudden 93 90 one of the best Syrahs in Sicily and Italy. This offers aromas of clove, dried fruit and prune. Aged in clay jolt, followed by dried fruit, black ash and dried herb beautiful aromas of dark fruit and chocolate, followed pots, it shows character and a unique personality that notes. The intensity is remarkable. Zev Rovine Selec- by spice, leather and tobacco accents. These aromas are will resonate with lovers of natural wine. Zev Rovine Se- tions. —M.L. well integrated, resulting in a silky, creamy mouthfeel, lections. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $26 with long persistency. Montcalm Wine Importers. Edi- abv: 15% Price: $45 tors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Pietradolce 2010 Archineri Nerello Mas- VITTORIA RED WINES calese (Etna). 90 This Nerello Mascalese opens Planeta 2010 Dorilli (Cerasuolo di Vitto- Baglio del Cristo di Campobello 2010 Lu- with delicate aromas of forest fruit, fresh blueberry, ria Classico). For full review see page 10. sirà Syrah (Sicilia). The folks a this relative- vanilla, ginger, licorice and spice. A mineral sensation 90 92 abv: 13% Price: $33 ly new Sicilian winery are responsible for some of the gives the tannins a dry, dusty feel. Bacchanal Wines. nicest Syrah made on the Mediterranean island. Lusirà —M.L. Valle dell’Acate 2009 Cerasuolo di Vitto- means “Syrah” in local dialect and the wine shows the abv: NA Price: $NA 90 ria Classico. One of the leading wineries in dark, cherry berry, chocolate and black pepper charac- the Cerasuolo di Vittoria appellation, Valle dell’Acate teristic of the variety, with herbal and spice overtones Tenuta di Fessina 2010 Erse Rosso delivers an elegant and feminine expression, with bright that recall its territory. Maritime Wine Trading Collec- (Etna). Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cap- 90 aromas of blue flower, forest fruit and almond paste. tive. —M.L. puccio are the basis of most Etna red wines. This shows The wine’s natural freshness would stand up nicely to abv: 14.5% Price: $38 purity and clarity, with aromas of forest fruit, cola, wild ricotta ravioli. Polaner Selections. —M.L. strawberry, blue flower, tar and dried ginger. The wine abv: 13.5% Price: $23 Cusumano 2010 Sàgana Nero d’Avola is very delicate and feminine, with tight structure, dusty 92 (Sicilia). The Cusumano brothers have been Feudo di Santa Tresa 2010 Cerasuolo di on a winning streak lately with a string of excellent edi- 88 Vittoria Classico. Cerasuolo di Vittoria is one tions of Sàgana—a pure expression of Nero d’Avola.

WineMag.com | 49 Round and elegant, this has integrated oak tones, ity and elegance. Polished and clean on the finish. Om- vintner Arianna Occhipinti, this wine portrays the vari- backed by notes of red cherry, spice and tobacco. This niwines Distribution. —M.L. ety in it’s purest form. Dark ruby in color, notes of for- winery has various vineyard sites across the island. Vin abv: NA Price: $17 est fruit, blue flower, spice and smoked bacon abound. Divino. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. Louis/Dressner Selections. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $35 COS 2010 Pithos (Sicilia). Unique and ex- abv: 12.5% Price: $42 91 pressive, this blend of Nero d’Avola and Frap- Feudo Montoni 2009 Vrucara Nero pato is aged in clay amphorae and represents a mile- Planeta 2010 Syrah (Sicilia). A savory and 92 d’Avola (Sicilia). Vrucara is one of the nicest stone product in the growing natural wine category. 91 meaty expression of Syrah, this opens with en- expressions of Nero d’Avola. It bears a deep, dark col- It offers polished sensations of forest berry, cassis and ticing aromas of dark cherry, leather, cured meat and or and intense aromas of black cherry, blackberry jam, spice, plus a touch of earthiness from the clay and loads wet earth. The palate is extra smooth and soft, with fla- leather and spice. The fruit shows the Sicilian sunshine of bright acidity on the finish. Domaine Select Wine Es- vors like pistachio and almond, that pin the wine to Sic- in an elegant way, without feeling heavy or too sweet, tates. Cellar Selection. —M.L. ily. Palm Bay International. —M.L. and that’s what sets this wine apart. Selected Estates of abv: NA Price: $35 abv: NA Price: $42 Europe Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $45 Cottanera 2009 Sole di Sesta Syrah (Si- Planeta 2010 Nerello Mascalese (Sicilia). 91 cilia). Made from Syrah that was grown on the 91 A new wine from Planeta, this pretty expression Feudo Principi di Butera 2008 Deliella steep, blackened slopes of Mt. Etna, this is round and of Nerello Mascalese shows an elegant and refined per- 92 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). For full review see plump, with aromas of blackberry and spice backed by sonality. It drinks like a Pinot Noir, with bright berry page 6. Cellar Selection. black olive, bacon fat and crushed white pepper. It’s fruit and background notes of forest berry, almond paste abv: 14% Price: $90 silky, long and smooth. Banville & Jones Wine Mer- and black volcanic powder. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. chants. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Morgante 2009 Don Antonio Nero abv: 13.5% Price: $48 92 d’Avola (Sicilia). Rich and full, this has aro- Planeta 2010 Santa Cecilia Nero d’Avola mas of cherry, toasted nut, spice and chocolate. Its per- Cottanera 2008 Nume Cabernet Sauvi- 91 (Sicilia). Santa Cecilia opens with the aromas sistency would pair with roast pork stuffed with prunes. 91 gnon (Sicilia). A pure expression of Caber- that define the Nero d’Avola grape. There are touches Winebow. —M.L. net Sauvignon from the volcanic soils of Mt. Etna, this of almond and Bronte pistachio, followed by blackberry, abv: 15% Price: $42 shows a drying mineral nuance of brimstone and graph- plum and cherry notes. A smoky mineral tone appears ite, backed by black fruit and spice notes. The tannins on the finish, and the wine is fresh and well structured. Palari 2009 Faro. Loaded with personality are superpolished and silky. This is a beautiful marriage Palm Bay International. —M.L. 92 and special distinguishing qualities, this blend of grape variety and terroir. Banville & Jones Wine Mer- abv: NA Price: $43 of Nocera, Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuc- chants. —M.L. cio is a wine for those interested in Italy’s indigenous abv: 14% Price: $48 Planeta 2009 Burdese (Sicilia). Showing grapes. The bouquet is complex and layered with notes 91 integrity, intensity and persistency, this opens of bramble, forest berry, cassis, cola, dried ginger and Donnafugata 2008 Tancredi (Sicilia). A with penetrating aromas of dark cherry, spice, leather green . The mouthful is tight, structured and 91 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Nero d’Avola, and prune. The mouthfeel is smooth and long, with fine, streamlined. Panebianco. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Tannat and small percentages of other grapes, this polished tannins. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $65 shows Sicilian ripeness and bright fruit. It also reveals abv: NA Price: $42 sophistication and complexity, with notes of spice and Tasca d’Almerita 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- leather, plus dark chocolate richness. Folio Fine Wine Tascante 2010 Ghiaia Nera Nerello Mas- 92 gnon (Sicilia). Despite the problematic vin- Partners. —M.L. 91 calese (Sicilia). Tascante is a new brand from tage, this wine opens with bold aromatic intensity, fea- abv: 13% Price: $40 Tasca d’Almerita that is derived from the words “Tasca” turing notes of prune, plum, blackberry and spice. On and “Etna” spelled backwards. From the slopes of the the palate, the wine is structured and firm, with a touch Duca di Salaparuta 2007 Duca Enrico mighty Sicilian volcano, this wine is loaded with min- of sweet cherry on the finish. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 91 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). This wine opens with eral, dark spice, ginger, forest berry and dried herb. The abv: NA Price: $65 impressive density, bearing ripe aromas of dark fruit and mouthfeel is tight and lean, with age-worthy tannins. spice, followed by smoky endnotes of toasted nut and —M.L. Tenuta Rapitalà 2010 Hugonis (Sicilia). A campfire. There’s a playful touch of rosemary and green abv: 13% Price: $NA 92 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Nero d’Avola, curry as well. Corvo USA. —M.L. this offers notes of rich chocolate fudge, cherry, black- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Tenuta Rapitalà 2009 Hugonis (Sicilia). A berry, spice and tobacco. It offers firm but velvety tan- 91 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Nero d’Avola, nins, with a long, fresh endnote of ripe berry fruit. Fred- Feudo Principi di Butera 2010 Symposio this shows loads of intensity, with notes of plump cherry, erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. 91 (Sicilia). For full review see page 8. Editors’ blackberry, wet earth, leather and savory spice. The pal- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Choice. ate has firm, polished tannins and rich concentration. abv: 14% Price: $20 Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. Baglio del Cristo di Campobello 2010 Lu abv: 14.5% Price: $50 91 Patri Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). This is a pure Feudo Principi di Butera 2008 Symposio expression of Nero d’Avola, with bright cherry and gen- 91 (Sicilia). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Baglio del Cristo di Campobello 2011 erous milk chocolate notes that are backed by toasted Merlot and Petit Verdot shows the great strides this 90 C’D’C’ Rosso (Sicilia). For full review see oak tannins and a fresh, spicy finish. The quality of the winery has made in recent years. The quality of the fruit page 9. Editors’ Choice. fruit is lively, rich and chewy. Maritime Wine Trading is fresh and intense, with deep layers of black cherry, abv: 14% Price: $17 Collective. —M.L. chocolate and spice. The finish is rich and penetrating, abv: 14% Price: $40 with lingering barbecue spice on the finish. Zonin USA. Baglio del Cristo di Campobello 2010 —M.L. 90 Adènzia (Sicilia). A blend of Nero d’Avola, Barone di Villagrande 2008 Sciara (Si- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, this opens with choco- 91 cilia). Merlot and Nerello Mascalese make for late, ripe blackberry, leather and spice notes. The finish perfect blending partners, creating a wine with cherry Occhipinti 2010 Il Frappato (Sicilia). If you is loaded with chocolate and toasted espresso-bean fla- softness and bright fruit intensity, plus volcanic mineral- 91 love Pinot Noir, you should definitely try Sicily’s Frappato grape. The crowning achievement of dynamic

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 vors, revealing many soft layers on the palate. Maritime pleasing touch of dried rosemary on the finish. Prestige schino, blackberry preserves and prune, followed by Wine Trading Collective. —M.L. Wine Imports Corp. —M.L. spice, tobacco and rum cake accents. The mouthfeel is abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 14% Price: $31 soft, chewy and long. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $30 Benanti 2006 Il Monovitigno Nerello Cap- Feudo Maccari 2010 Saia Nero d’Avola 90 puccio (Sicilia). Released many years after 90 (Sicilia). Characteristics of toasted almond and COS 2009 Nero di Lupo Nero d’Avola (Si- the harvest, this slowly aged expression of Nerello Cap- pistachio shine through as soon as you put your nose 89 cilia). This pure expression of Nero d’Avola of- puccio demonstrates balance and character, with pure, to the glass. Those notes are followed by bright cher- fers broad aromas of red berry, blackberry and currant. delicate notes of cassis, dried berry, sage and rosemary. ry and blackberry, plus fresh sensations of acidity. Ko- The fruit is on the dry side, made complex with aromas It finishes with dusty, polished tannins. Wine Ware- brand. —M.L. that recall wet earth and tobacco. The palate is elegant house Imports. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA and layered. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $36 abv: NA Price: $30 Marabino 2009 Archimede Eloro Pachi- Cambria 2009 Rosso del Levriero (Sicil- 90 no Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). This Nero d’Avola Cottanera 2010 L’Ardenza Mondeuse (Si- 90 ia). A 50-50 blend of Syrah and Nero d’Avola, shows a dark, rich color and inky concentration. It pres- 89 cilia). A pure expression of the rare Mondeuse this wine is soft and has enormous density, with linger- ents aromas of smoked bacon, black cherry and exotic grape, L’Ardenza opens with bold concentration and ing notes of leather, cherry and dark chocolate. The fruit spice, with a rich, velvety mouthfeel. Porto Vino Ital- soft layers of cherry and plush black fruit. The wine is layers are generous and plump. Tuttovino LLC. —M.L. iano. —M.L. lush and rich, with an easy finish. Banville & Jones Wine abv: 14% Price: $27 abv: NA Price: $40 Merchants. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $48 Caruso & Minini 2008 Delia Nivolelli Occhipinti 2010 Siccagno Nero d’Avola 90 Riserva Syrah (Sicilia). This pure expres- 90 (Sicilia). There’s a wild, untamed quality to Cusumano 2011 Benuara (Sicilia). This sion of Syrah opens with a black fruit note, followed by this 100% Nero d’Avola that comes forth as almond, 89 fresh blend of Nero d’Avola and Syrah opens opulent notes of cardamom, clove and nutmeg. Savory wild berry, cola and dried ginger. Made according to with a ripe raspberry note, and it shows a soft, plush notes of leather and cured meat drive the palate’s mo- biodynamic principles, this is fresh, tart, focused and texture and a chewy close. It has a ripe blackberry fla- mentum. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. complex. It offers a thrilling experience. Louis/Dress- vor, with a smooth, creamy texture. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $39 ner Selections. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $14 abv: 13% Price: $42 Cottanera 2010 Fatagione (Sicilia). A mix Duca di Salaparuta 2009 Vajasindi Làvico 90 of mostly Nerello Mascalese with a small per- Occhipinti 2009 Siccagno Nero d’Avola 89 Nerello Mascalese (Sicilia). This pure ex- centages of international varieties, this is a bolder, toast- 90 (Sicilia). A feminine expression of Nero pression of Nerello Mascalese opens with bright berry ier style than this estate’s other red wines. Spice and to- d’Avola, this shows layers of forest berry, vanilla, cola, intensity and drying mineral nuances of brimstone and bacco come on the heels of ripe red-fruit, smoky brim- light spice and crushed almond. It shows a sleek, pol- lead pencil. The mouthfeel is fresh, lean and etched. stone and toasted nut flavors. Banville & Jones Wine ished mouthfeel. Louis/Dressner Selections. —M.L. Corvo USA. —M.L. Merchants. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA Planeta 2010 Merlot (Sicilia). This is round, Feudo Arancio 2010 Cantodoro (Sicilia). Cottanera 2009 Fatagione Nerello Mas- 90 soft and velvety, with notes of cherry, blackber- 89 For full review see page 10. 90 calese (Sicilia). This blend of Nerello Masca- ry, spice, leather and tobacco. With no sharp edges, its abv: 13.5% Price: $16 lese and some international varieties offers bright berry acidity is well balanced within the many layers of fruit. and herbal overtones, backed by notes of black pepper, Palm Bay International. —M.L. Feudo Arancio 2009 Cantodoro (Sicilia). olive, mineral and blackberry. There’s a spot of menthol abv: NA Price: $42 89 A blend of Nero d’Avola and Cabernet Sauvi- that helps render a zesty and soothing sensation on the gnon, this wine offers ripe, plump layers of black fruit, palate. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. Principi di Spadafora 2008 Schietto Cab- chocolate and spice. The palate is soft, luscious and vel- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 90 ernet Sauvignon (Sicilia). This offers black- vety. —M.L. berry, prune and cooked plum flavors, with tones of abv: NA Price: $NA Cottanera 2009 Grammonte Merlot (Sicil- leather and tobacco. The mouthfeel is smooth and silky. 90 ia). Merlot from Mt. Etna shows the inherent Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. Feudo Montoni 2010 Nero d’Avola (Sicil- softness of the variety, with bright cherry and blackberry abv: 14% Price: $19 89 ia). There’s a ripe and opulent quality that gives notes, plus accents of mineral and black spice that bring the wine loads of intensity and consistency. The purity up the rear. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. Benanti 2007 Il Monovitigno Nerello Mas- of the fruit is excellent, and the finish reveals nicely inte- abv: 13.5% Price: $48 89 calese (Sicilia). A pure expression of Nerello grated acidity. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. Mascalese, this delicate wine opens with aromas of wild abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Cottanera 2007 L’Ardenza Mondeuse (Si- berry, smoky spice, crushed stone and tobacco. It shows 90 cilia). Made using Mondeuse grapes that were a dry, dusty finish, with subtle accents of cassis and dried Feudo Principi di Butera 2010 Syrah (Si- farmed on the slopes of Mt. Etna, this shows an elegant, raspberry. Wine Warehouse Imports. —M.L. 89 cilia). For full review see page 11. Editors’ etched quality, with a mineral nuance that’s backed by abv: 13.5% Price: $41 Choice. cassis, licorice, tobacco and dark fruit. The tannins are abv: 13.5% Price: $17 tight and polished. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. Caruso & Minini 2010 Cusora (Sicilia). —M.L. 89 The bouquet on this blend of Syrah and Mer- Feudo Principi di Butera 2010 Riesi (Si- abv: 13.5% Price: $48 lot offers soft layers of cherry and chocolate fudge. The 89 cilia). A blend of Nero d’Avola and Syrah, this palate is round, rich and creamy, with sensations of ripe opens with plush tones of blackberry and cherry, backed Feudo Arancio 2007 Hedonis (Sicilia). As fruit and tobacco. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. by savory accents of spice, smoke and black pepper. The 90 its name suggests, Hedonis ushers forth opulent abv: NA Price: $28 mouthfeel is smooth and velvety. —M.L. and indulgent aromas of chocolate fudge, bright berry abv: NA Price: $NA and exotic spice. The aromatic intensity is impressive, Ceuso 2009 Fastaia (Sicilia). Fastaia is a but the palate is tight, linear and compact. There’s a 89 “super Sicilian” blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Occhipinti 2011 SP68 Rosso (Sicilia). Merlot and Petit Verdot that offers ripe aromas of mara­ 89 This biodynamic blend of Frappato and Nero

WineMag.com | 51 d’Avola shows a bright ruby color, with fresh aromas of Principi di Spadafora 2010 Syrah (Sicil- Zisola 2010 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). blueberry, cassis and white almond. The mouthfeel is 88 ia). Winemaker Francesco Spadafora shows his 88 Straightforward and bright, this easygoing Nero fresh, bearing a sour cherry flavor. Louis/Dressner Se- deft hand with Syrah in this easygoing wine. It has in- d’Avola offers notes of forest fruit, cherry, dried rose- lections. —M.L. tensity and complexity, with layers of spice, red cherry, mary and toasted almond. The palate is lean, fresh and abv: 12.5% Price: $30 leather and black pepper. Montcalm Wine Importers. streamlined. Palm Bay International. —M.L. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $26 Tenuta Rapitalà 2010 Alto Nero d’Avola abv: 13.5% Price: $12 89 (Sicilia). Notes of bold black fruit, prune, to- Altadonna 2010 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). A bacco and toasted almond open the rich bouquet of this Principi di Spadafora 2009 Don Pietro 87 bright expression of Nero d’Avola, this shows a dense wine. Creamy and soft on the finish, this would 88 (Sicilia). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, pretty fruit note, backed by prune, spice and wet earth pair well with roasts of chicken or pork. Frederick Wild- Nero d’Avola and Merlot opens with bright intensity, accents. It feels silky and supple, with soft tannins. Op- man & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. especially in terms of the quality of its fruit aromas. The ici Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $21 palate is smooth and silky, with a long, fruit-driven fin- abv: 13% Price: $15 ish. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. Cambria 2009 Suaviter Nero d’Avola (Si- abv: 14% Price: $17 Cambria 2010 Mastronicola Nocera (Si- 88 cilia). Bright nuances of black cherry and prune 87 cilia). This opens with savory spice, leather, are backed by softly toasted aromas of nut and spice. Principi di Spadafora 2007 Schietto Syr- cured meat and tobacco notes. There isn’t much fresh The one year of oak aging has helped to further soften 88 ah (Sicilia). This Syrah offers bright tones of fruit found, but there is a pretty aromas of cassis. Drink the wine’s velvety texture. Tuttovino LLC. —M.L. leather, cured meat and blackberry. Smooth and long- now. Tuttovino LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 lasting, the palate boasts loads of bright berries. Mont- abv: 14.5% Price: $34 calm Wine Importers. —M.L. D’Alessandro 2010 Nero d’Avola (Sicil- abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Cambria 2009 Syrah (Sicilia). Plump, rich 88 ia). This Nero d’Avola from the Agrigento area 87 and meaty, this Syrah offers ripe fruit aromas of southern Sicily opens with spicy nuances of cumin, Tasca d’Almerita 2008 Camastra (Sicilia). of blackberry and prune, followed by tobacco and wet clove and nutmeg, followed by plush red-fruit and dusty 88 This is a blend of Nero d’Avola and Merlot in earth notes. It will appeal to those consumers who ap- mineral endnotes. The palate is polished, bright and almost equal measures. The first varietal offers aromas preciate a bold, chewy style. Tuttovino LLC. —M.L. finely textured. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. of red fruit, wild fennel and pistachio. The second grape abv: 14% Price: $21 abv: NA Price: $14 lends softness and bright cherry flavor. There’s a touch of tar and graphite on the close. Winebow. —M.L. Ceuso 2010 Scurati Nero d’Avola (Sicil- Donnafugata 2010 Sedàra (Sicilia). A abv: 14% Price: $29 87 ia). Scurati Nero d’Avola delivers easy tones 88 blend of Nero d’Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon, of red fruit and cherry, with slight shadings of tobacco Merlot and Syrah, this is bright and fresh, with an easy- Tenimenti Zabù 2010 Il Passo Nerello and wet earth. There is an herbal note as well, and the drinking approach. Cherry, blackberry and spice give it 88 Mascalese (Sicilia). A pure expression of mouthfeel is vibrant and fresh. Vias Imports. —M.L. a full and lively personality. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Nerello Mascalese—the main indigenous grape of the abv: 13.5% Price: $15 —M.L. Mt. Etna area—this is a ripe and juicy rendition, com- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 pared to the variety’s normally austere personality. It Colosi 2011 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). This has notes of blackberry, spice and dark tobacco. World 87 opens with pretty fruit tones of cherry and Feudi del Pisciotto 2010 Valentino Mer- Wide Cellars. —M.L. blackberry, with subtle tones of spice and rum cake in 88 lot (Sicilia). Valentino is part of a series from abv: 13% Price: $18 the background. Vias Imports. —M.L. Feudi del Pisciotto that contributes funds to charitable abv: 14% Price: $16 causes. This wine opens with jammy aromas of cherry Tenuta Rapitalà 2011 Tenuta Syrah (Sicil- and blackberry, with touches of sour astringency and 88 ia). Bright, intense and compelling, this Syrah Cusumano 2011 Syrah (Sicilia). Plump sweet fruit on the finish. Vias Imports. —M.L. has bold fruit and a soft, velvety mouthfeel. A wine to be 87 and meaty, this opens with dark aromas of abv: 14% Price: $21 consumed at casual and dressy occasions alike. —M.L. blackberry, spice, crushed pepper and bresaola. This abv: NA Price: $NA would drink well at informal occasions with family and Feudo Principi di Butera 2010 Cabernet friends. Vin Divino. Best Buy. —M.L. 88 Sauvignon (Sicilia). True to the variety, this Tenuta Rapitalà 2010 Nadir Syrah (Sicil- abv: 14% Price: $12 expression of Cabernet Sauvignon offers rich layers of 88 ia). This opens with loads of milled black pep- dark fruit, prune, chocolate, spice and dried rosemary. per, which makes a strong statement. Behind that spicy Cusumano 2011 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). The palate is tight, structured and fresh. Zonin USA. tone are notes of black fruit, prune, tobacco and leather. 87 There’s a hint of ripe fruit here that recalls —M.L. Soft cherry and chocolate accents appear on the finish. strawberry or raspberry. The palate is clean, round and abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. soft, and the finish lacks the burnt almond note this abv: 13.5% Price: $17 grape sometimes offers. Vin Divino. Best Buy. —M.L. Feudo Principi di Butera 2010 Nero abv: 14% Price: $12 88 d’Avola (Sicilia). This estate in southern Sic- Tenuta Rapitalà 2010 Nuhar (Sicilia). An ily has been showing great momentum the past few 88 innovative mix of Nero d’Avola and Pinot Nero, Duca di Salaparuta 2010 Calanìca Frap- vintages. A pure expression of Nero d’Avola, this wine this shows balance and harmony on the palate. In terms 87 pato-Syrah (Sicilia). Frappato and Syrah shows varietal characteristics of cherry, forest berry and of aroma, the Nero d’Avola overpowers the Pinot Nero, make perfect blending partners. The first grape shows toasted pistachio. Zonin USA. —M.L. however. It’s a bright, fruit-driven wine with freshness light, feminine characteristics, with bright berry and abv: 13.5% Price: $17 on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. cola nuances. The second delivers color, dark fruit, den- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 sity and savory spice. Corvo USA. —M.L. Planeta 2010 Plumbago Nero d’Avola (Si- abv: 12% Price: $NA 88 cilia). Plumbago is a pure expression of Nero Valle dell’Acate 2009 Il Moro Nero d’Avola that portrays the natural characteristics of this 88 d’Avola (Sicilia). This opens with aromas of Duca di Salaparuta 2010 Passo delle indigenous Sicilian grape. Red berry, cherry, almond blue flower, rose, almond paste, forest berry and sweet 87 Mule Suar Marchesa Nero d’Avola (Sicil- skin and pistachio open the bouquet and give way to spice. The palate offers fresh berry fruit and a compact, ia). Bright and straightforward, this Nero d’Avola shows zesty freshness on the palate. —M.L. streamlined feel. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 cherry, plum, toasted pistachio notes, with a fresh touch ate’s freshness would pair with cheese-based appetizers. of spice, leather and bitter almond fill in the back. Palm of wild fennel. Corvo USA. —M.L. Vias Imports. —M.L. Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $16 abv: NA Price: $30

Duca di Salaparuta 2009 Triskelè (Si- Feudo di Santa Tresa 2008 Avulisi Nero Sikelia 2010 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). Juicy 87 cilia). This blend of Nero d’Avola and Merlot 87 d’Avola (Sicilia). Made from organically 87 and ripe, this opens with black fruit and prune shows a black-cherry note backed by toasted nut and farmed fruit, this opens with fresh cherry and black- notes, followed by soft tannins and a chewy, rich mouth- leather accents. It feels tight and fresh, with an easy, berry flavors. It has a lean mouthfeel, backed by bright feel. Pair it with roasted meats with buttery baked pota- crisp finish. Corvo USA. —M.L. acidity, and it would pair with potato gnocchi and toes. August Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA cheese. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $26 Duca di Salaparuta 2009 Vajasindi Tasca d’Almerita 2010 Lamùri Nero 87 Nawàri Pinot Nero (Sicilia). Bright garnet in Feudo di Santa Tresa 2008 Nìvuro (Sicil- 87 d’Avola (Sicilia). Lamùri shows a food friend- color, this delicate wine has aromas of cassis, sour cherry 87 ia). A clean blend of Nero d’Avola and Caber- ly side of Nero d’Avola that would pair with veal, pork and violet, plus a drying touch of mineral. The mouth- net Sauvignon, this opens with red cherry, blackberry or roasted turkey. The bouquet is redolent of cherry feel is lean, fresh and sharp. Corvo USA. —M.L. and plum notes. The wine delivers cleansing acidity and cola, forest fruit, ginger and toasted nut. Subtle notes of abv: 13% Price: $NA good fruit concentration. Vias Imports. —M.L. smoke and spice appear on the finish. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $20 Feudi del Pisciotto 2010 Baglio del Sole 87 (Sicilia). Bold and modern in style, this blend MandraRossa 2010 Bonera (Sicilia). An Tasca d’Almerita 2010 Sallier de la Tour of Merlot and Syrah shows ripe fruit and blackberry, 87 easydrinking blend of Nero d’Avola and Caber- 87 Syrah (Sicilia). Syrah finds a perfect home with soft endnotes of leather and chocolate. Vias Im- net Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this would pair well in Sicily. The sea breezes and sunny weather help give ports. Best Buy. —M.L. with breaded veal or roasted chicken. Aromas include ripe aromas of blackberry, cherry, tobacco and smoked abv: 13.5% Price: $10 cherry, milk chocolate and blackberry, with a note of bacon. It exudes a spicy touch of barbecue sauce, with toasted pistachio. Palm Bay International. —M.L. gritty tannins that give the wine texture, richness and Feudi del Pisciotto 2010 Carolina Maren- abv: NA Price: $20 power. Domaines & Appelations. —M.L. 87 go Frappato (Sicilia). This pure expression abv: 13% Price: $13 of Frappato offers savory notes of cassis and cured Marabino 2010 Noto. This offers bright meat, followed by prune and dark plum accents. It’s a 87 cherry intensity, with raw spice and tobacco Tenimenti Zabù 2011 Chiantari Red Blend dark and concentrated interpretation of this grape. Vias notes. The purity of those aromas gives the wine nice 87 (Sicilia). Sweet tones of prune, ripe cherry and Imports. —M.L. momentum on the palate. Porto Vino Italiano. —M.L. moist pipe tobacco give this wine appeal and personal- abv: 13.5% Price: $21 abv: NA Price: $17 ity. The palate shows soft tones of chocolate and cooked cherry. World Wide Cellars. —M.L. Feudi del Pisciotto 2010 Versace Nero Morgante 2010 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). abv: 14% Price: $16 87 d’Avola (Sicilia). In a touch of irony, Versace 87 Nero d’Avola sometimes delivers a toasted note is a no-frills Nero d’Avola that opens with a bright ber- of pistachio or almond, and that nutty note is definite- Tenimenti Zabù 2010 Chiantari Nero ry note and light touches of spice and toasted nut. The ly found in this wine. Soft and smooth in texture, the 87 d’Avola (Sicilia). Clean and easy, this has a smooth finish would pair well with breaded veal. Vias palate offers notes of black fruit and plum. Winebow. bright fruit aroma, plus a subtle tone of burnt almond Imports. —M.L. —M.L. at the back. Pair this with ravioli and smoked ricotta abv: 14% Price: $21 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 cheese. Worldwide Cellars. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $16 Feudo Arancio 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Murgo 2010 Tenuta San Michele Pinot 87 (Sicilia). This opens with aromas of black cher- 87 Nero (Sicilia). This Pinot Nero opens with Tenuta di Fessina 2010 Ero Nero d’Avola ry, chocolate, prune and blackberry jam. Freshness and candied aromas of raspberry, citrus and wild strawberry, 87 (Sicilia). This pure expression of Nero d’Avola subtle softness picks up on the rear of the wine. Prestige followed by a lean but fresh feel on the palate. Domaine has bittersweet aromas of almond and cherry that are Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. Select Wine Estates. —M.L. set against notes of soda, cassis and wet earth. The wine abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $60 is aged in stainless steel to maintain the purity of its aro- mas. Winebow. —M.L. Feudo Arancio 2011 Merlot (Sicilia). A Planeta 2011 La Segreta (Sicilia). Now abv: 13% Price: $25 87 fine wine to enjoy while watching a football 87 boasting a stylish, revamped label, La Segreta— game or a good movie, this Merlot washes down eas- one of Sicily’s most popular value wines—offers chewy Tenuta Gorghi Tondi 2010 Coste a Preo- ily, offering bright cherry, plum and mild spice flavors. red fruit and cherry flavors, followed by bright acidity 87 la Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). Dark and dense, Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. and a bitter almond note. Pair it with grilled sausages this has loads of ripe fruit and leather aromas on the abv: 13.5% Price: $10 and onion rings. Palm Bay International. —M.L. bouquet. It shows a soft, supple side on the palate, with abv: 13% Price: $15 a tangy touch of black licorice on the finish. Voliovino. Feudo Arancio 2011 Syrah (Sicilia). —M.L. 87 Smooth and velvety in feel, this Syrah offers Principi di Spadafora 2009 Schietto Nero abv: 13.5% Price: $17 plush layers of red fruit and tobacco. It drinks very eas- 87 d’Avola (Sicilia). A bright and straightforward ily, imparting cheerful red-berry and spice flavors as its expression of Nero d’Avola, this offers notes of red fruit Tenuta Gorghi Tondi 2010 Sorante Nero glides across the palate. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. and toasted pistachio, plus a light shading of tobacco. 87 d’Avola (Sicilia). Easy and smooth, this shows Best Buy. —M.L. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. bright fruit aromas of cherry and cooked raspberry, with abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 14.5% Price: $19 soft layers of spice and tobacco at the back. Pair this with pasta and hearty meat sauce. Voliovino. —M.L. Feudo di Santa Tresa 2011 Frappato (Si- Settesoli 2011 Seligo (Sicilia). From one abv: 13.5% Price: $30 87 cilia). Made using organically farmed fruit, this 87 of Sicily’s most powerful wine co-ops, this blend wine opens with spicy aromas of dried herb and basil, of Syrah and Nero d’Avola offers pretty fruit intensity, followed by tones of wild raspberry and cassis. The pal- with layers of red cherry and blackberry. Subtle tones

WineMag.com | 53 Tenuta Rapitalà 2011 Campo Reale Nero rosemary. Barbecue spice and teriyaki sauce flavors give Viticultori Associati Canicatti 2008 Scialo 87 d’Avola (Sicilia). For full review see page 12. the wine a bold, chewy feel. Vias Imports. —M.L. 86 (Sicilia). This blend of Nero d’Avola and Syrah Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $21 opens with savory aromas of cured meat, dried berry, abv: 13.5% Price: $13 cassis, tobacco and wet earth. There’s a touch of almond Feudo Arancio 2011 Pinot Noir (Sicilia). bitterness on the finish. Sober LLC. —M.L. Valle dell’Acate 2011 Case Ibidini Nero 86 Dark ruby in color, this has soft aromas of cher- abv: NA Price: $NA 87 d’Avola (Sicilia). Easy, fresh and true to the ry, black fruit and cassis. There’s a bright point of acidity variety, this expression offers blue flower and forest that would pair with pasta with cheese. Prestige Wine Bonavita 2009 Faro. Dark and inky, this nat- berry notes, backed by almond and pistachio accents. Imports Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. 85 ural wine is made from organic fruit, and it of- The finish is crisp, tight and lean. Communal Brands. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 fers aromas of cured beef and prune, followed by ac- —M.L. cents of tobacco and wet earth. There’s not much fruit, abv: 13% Price: $15 Feudo Arancio 2011 Nero d’Avola (Si- and it shows slightly bitter tannins on the close. Jan 86 cilia). If you are curious about Sicily’s Nero D’Amore Wines. —M.L. Valle dell’Acate 2011 Case Ibidini Syrah d’Avola grape, this is the perfect wine for beginners. It abv: 13.5% Price: $40 87 (Sicilia). This Syrah offers plush cherry and shows great fruit integrity, with characteristic aromas of blackberry notes, with cured meat, tobacco and black cherry, wild berry and toasted pistachio. Prestige Wine Botter 2011 Caleo Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). pepper touches. It feels smooth, rich and soft. Commu- Imports Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. 85 There’s a touch of ripe fruit followed by prune nal Brands. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $9 and dark tobacco. This Nero d’Avola is smooth and soft abv: 13% Price: $15 on the palate, with a touch of ripe fruit, plus notes of Feudo Arancio 2010 Sangiovese (Sicilia). prune and dark tobacco. It would pair well with spicy Viticultori Associati Canicatti 2010 Aqui- 86 Monovarietal wines made from Sangiovese are chicken wings. Total Wine & More. Best Buy. —M.L. 87 lae Cabernet Sauvignon (Sicilia). Bright a new concept for Sicily. The wine exhibits a dark ruby abv: 13% Price: $10 Cabernet aromas of blackberry and black pepper are color, with sweet aromas of cherry and blackberry. A followed by some bitter almond and cured meat tones. touch of white almond marks the finish. Prestige Wine Cambria 2010 Bazia Rosso (Sicilia). For It has structure, firmness and intensity, with a medium Imports Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. 85 full review see page 13. Best Buy. build. Sober LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: NA Price: $NA Feudo di Santa Tresa 2011 Purato Made Cielo 2011 Primi Soli Nero d’Avola (Si- Viticultori Associati Canicatti 2010 Calìo 86 With Organic Grapes Nero d’Avola (Sicil- 85 cilia). This easygoing wine opens with a cherry 87 (Sicilia). A blend of Nero d’Avola and Nerel- ia). For full review see page 12. Editors’ Choice. aroma, followed by leather and wet earth touches. Easy lo Cappuccio, this delivers a tangy, spicy feel, plus pol- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 tannins and bright acids make it pair well with pasta or ished aromas of blackberry, almond and cured meat. pizza. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —M.L. Pair this easygoing selection with pepperoni pizza. So- Feudo Maccari 2010 Nero d’Avola (Sicil- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ber LLC. —M.L. 86 ia). An easygoing Nero d’Avola, this shows char- abv: NA Price: $NA acteristic almond and toasted pistachio flavors, followed Colosi 2010 Red (Sicilia). An easy red by bright cherry and raspberry notes. The mouthfeel is 85 blend, this would pair well with hamburgers or Viticultori Associati Canicatti 2010 Cen- tight and compact. Kobrand. —M.L. grilled meats. Notes of cherry and blackberry accent the 87 tuno Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). This offers ripe abv: NA Price: $NA palate. Vias Imports. —M.L. notes of prune and blackberry, with a nutty nuance. The abv: 13.5% Price: $13 mouthfeel is round, plush and smooth. Sober LLC. MandraRossa 2010 Cavadiserpe (Sicil- —M.L. 86 ia). A blend of Merlot, Nero d’Avola and Ali- Corvo 2011 Glicine (Sicilia). This opens abv: NA Price: $NA cante Bouschet, this opens with aromas of cherry soda, 85 with floral aromas of violet and rose bud, fol- smoked meat and plump red fruit. The wine’s overall lowed by light berry and plum notes. The palate tastes Viticultori Associati Canicatti 2009 Aq- personality is simple and informal, with a raw, chewy easy and fresh. Corvo USA. —M.L. 87 uilae Syrah (Sicilia). Bold prune and ripe mouthfeel. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA blackberry notes are followed by leather and dried to- abv: NA Price: $NA bacco accents. In the mouth, the wine is smooth, velvety Corvo 2010 Rosso (Sicilia). A blend of and easily approachable. Sober LLC. —M.L. Natale Verga 2010 Antale (Sicilia). A 70-30 85 Nero d’Avola and Nerello Mascalese, this de- abv: NA Price: $NA 86 blend of Nero d’Avola and Syrah, this has a dark livers forest berry and cola, with blue flower and dusty garnet color, with ripe aromas of blackberry and sour mineral accents. The palate is easy, bright and lean. Donnafugata 2011 Sherazade Nero cherry. The wine’s acidity gives the palate a lively pop. Corvo USA. —M.L. 86 d’Avola (Sicilia). An easygoing Nero d’Avola Jandell Selections. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA that would pair with white meat or roast turkey, this has abv: 14% Price: $13 layers of blueberry, toasted almond and pistachio fla- Mezzacorona 2011 Goose Bump (Sicil- vors, with a mild mouthfeel on the finish. —M.L. Tasca d’Almerita 2010 Sallier de la Tour 85 ia). Dark and inky in appearance, this blend of abv: NA Price: $NA 86 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). This shows a bright Nero d’Avola, Merlot and Syrah offers nuanced bright quality of fruit, with fine nuances of berry, tart cherry fruit, with softness and an obvious touch of sweetness Duca di Salaparuta 2010 Calanìca Nero and plum. The acidity would pair with oven-roasted la- on the finish. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. 86 d’Avola-Merlot (Sicilia). Merlot and Nero sagna with a cheesy crust. Domaines and Appelations. —M.L. d’Avola form the base for this easy red wine that would —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $10 pair with fettuccine and meat sauce or pork roast. The abv: 13.5% Price: $13 quality of the fruit is clean, bright and sharp. Corvo Principi di Spadafora 2010 Alhambra USA. —M.L. TerrAmore 2011 Nero d’Avola (Sicil- 85 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). This has jammy aro- abv: 13% Price: $NA 86 ia). Made with organically farmed fruit, this mas of strawberry and raspberry that would work well is bright, fresh and linear, with forest berry and black at cocktail hour. The palate is lean. Montcalm Wine Im- Feudi del Pisciotto 2010 Missoni Caber- cherry notes, backed by almond and dried tobacco leaf. porters. —M.L. 86 net Sauvignon (Sicilia). This concentrated Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Cabernet offers aromas of cured meat, dried fruit and abv: 12.5% Price: $12

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 Tenimenti Zabù 2011 Nero d’Avola (Sicil- Feudi della Medusa 2009 Albithia (Ver- Argiolas 2008 Korem (Isola dei Nuraghi). 85 ia). A fresh berry aroma opens the nose of this 87 mentino di Sardegna). This creamy Vermen- 90 An interesting blend of Bovale, Carignano and easy-going Nero d’Avola. Slender and crisp, it would tino offers aromas of peach, exotic fruit, honey, pine nut Cannonau (three of the great indigenous grapes of Sar- pair with curried chicken or veal chop. Worldwide Cel- and chopped herb. There’s a touch of green fruit, kiwi dinia), this opens with aromas of bramble, fresh herb, lars. Best Buy. —M.L. and basil as well. The Sorting Table. —M.L. black olive and dried ginger. Soft berry fruit is backed abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 14% Price: $24 by a fresh, menthol-tinged finish. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Colosi 2009 Nerello Mascalese (Sicilia). Mesa 2011 Giunco (Vermentino di Sarde- 84 A simple expression of Nerello Mascalese, this 87 gna). This Vermentino boasts a creamy mouth- Feudi della Medusa 2008 Norace (Isola shows notes of bright, slightly bitter berries, with a dry- feel and medium intensity, with notes of white flower, 90 dei Nuraghi). Norace is a blend of Cannonau, ing mineral sensation at the back. Vias Imports. —M.L. dried hay, peach and citrus. It feels smooth and silky on Syrah and Carignano that offers dried fruit and spice, abv: 12.5% Price: $15 the finish. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. backed by tobacco, black olive and a whiff of blue flow- abv: 13.5% Price: $26 er. The mouthfeel is dominated by savory flavors of pep- percorn and cured meat. The Sorting Table. —M.L. SARDINIA Mesa 2011 Primo Bianco (Vermentino abv: 13.5% Price: $55 86 di Sardegna). Very fresh and easygoing, this ISOLA DEI NURAGHI crisp and spicy selection offers bright accents of lemon Feudi della Medusa 2007 Crisaore (Iso- zest, kiwi and dried hay. Pair it with your favorite salad 87 la dei Nuraghi). Made from the little-known WHITE WINES recipe. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. Cagnulari grape, this wine offers a cured meat accent, Feudi della Medusa 2009 Alba Nora (Iso- abv: 13% Price: $18 backed by blackberry and plum notes. It feels tight and 89 la dei Nuraghi). A unique expression of Char- raw on the palate, with integrated acidity on the finish. donnay, this has oxidized aromas of butterscotch and The Sorting Table. —M.L. candied fruit, backed by apricot, cinnamon and nutmeg ROSÉS abv: 13.5% Price: $40 tones. Creamy and rich, this wine has a zesty and bright Mesa 2011 Primo Rosato (Isola dei finish. The Sorting Table. —M.L. 86 Nuraghi). Notes of pink roses and wild flow- abv: 14% Price: $44 ers open the bouquet of this delicate selection. It offers OTHER SARDINIAN cranberry and citrus flavors over an easy, fresh finish. REDS Tenute Soletta 2011 Kyanos (Isola dei Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. Cantina Santadi 2007 Shardana (Valli di 88 Nuraghi). This blend of Incrocio Manzoni and abv: 13% Price: $18 Vermentino opens with bold floral intensity, plus solid 91 Porto Pino). For full review see page 8. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 background tones of peach and lemon mousse. It offers Pala 2011 Chiaro di Stelle Rosé (Isola dei a creamy, soft mouthfeel that could stand up to white 86 Nuraghi). Tangy and bright, this wine delivers Cantina Pedres 2009 Cerasio (Cannon- meat or shellfish. Tricana Imports. —M.L. a mouth-puckering blast of citrusy acidity, with a hint of abv: 14% Price: $32 87 au di Sardegna). This dark and luscious Can- bitter almond. Raspberry and peach notes help soften nonau opens with spicy aromas of barbecue and teriyaki the finish. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. sauce, followed by dark fruit and prune accents. Softly Pala 2011 Silenzi (Isola dei Nuraghi). abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 85 Notes of pear, peach and honey open the bou- toasted notes of sweet almond and rum cake also ap- quet of this fresh wine. There’s a touch of butterscotch pear. Specialty Wine Co. —M.L. at the back that gives it a medium-rich mouthfeel. Ban- ISOLA DEI NURAGHI abv: 13.5% Price: $19 ville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L.

abv: 13% Price: $NA RED WINES Cantina Sociale di Dolianova 2010 Dolia (Cannonau di Sardegna). Capichera 2007 Mantènghja (Isola dei 86 A simple expres- sion of Cannonau, this has notes of dark fruit and prune, Nuraghi). Dark and savory, this has masculine 92 followed by sweet spice and leather accents. It would OTHER SARDINIAN aromas of cured meat, leather and tobacco. It shows pair well with grilled sausages. Saranty Imports. —M.L. huge density and richness on the palate, with ripe WHITES abv: 13.5% Price: $15 prune, blackberry and currant notes. This Carignano Mesa 2011 Opale (Vermentino di Sarde- would pair with barbecued pork. Un Pò Pazzo. —M.L. Cantine di Dolianova 2010 Dolia (Monica 88 gna). Aged only in stainless steel, this expres- abv: 14.5% Price: $87 sion of Vermentino offers fragrant aromas that span 85 di Sardegna). The Monica grape often shows from natural rubber to apricot. The wine is creamy and Feudi della Medusa 2007 Gerione (Iso- a rustic or raw quality, with aromas of cherry cola, black pepper and sour fruit. This expression does just that, smooth on the finish, with a touch of spice. Montcalm la dei Nuraghi). A blend of Cagnulari (55%), 91 with an added touch of bright acidity on the finish. Sa- Wine Importers. —M.L. Syrah and Cabernet Franc, this boasts an inky black ranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $33 color, and it offers smoky aromas of spice, leather, to- abv: 13% Price: $14 bacco and bitter chocolate. Those oak-inspired tones Tenute Soletta 2011 Chimera (Vermenti- are followed by bold layers of blackberry and plum. The 88 no di Sardegna). Fresh and clean, this Ver- mouthfeel is creamy, long and well structured. Keep BEAUJOLAIS mentino offers ripe aromas of apricot and peach, with this for five years or longer. The Sorting Table. —M.L. background tones of citrus and pear. It’s extra smooth abv: 13.5% Price: $80 and silky on the close. Tricana Imports. —M.L. JULIÉNAS abv: 13% Price: $30 Agricola Punica 2010 Montessu (Isola Pascal Aufranc 2011 Les Cerisiers (Julié- dei Nuraghi). Elegant and tight, this blend of- Tenute Soletta 2011 Sardo (Vermentino 90 90 nas). This selection is named after the cherry fers savory tones of cured meat and dried fruit, followed trees that border the vineyard, and it’s not too much of 88 di Sardegna). Fresh and fragrant, oozing with by green notes of curry leaf and herb. The wine is tangy, jasmine, honey and stone fruit notes, this shows the a stretch of the imagination to find a red cherry flavor in thick and persistent on the palate. Kobrand. —M.L. the wine. Red berry fruits are there as well, backed up best of Sardinian white winemaking. There’s a touch of abv: 14% Price: $35 sweetness that is well balanced and not too heavy. Tri- by dry, firm tannins. Wine Traditions. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 cana Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $20

WineMag.com | 55 Trenel Fils 2010 Esprit de Marius San­ Château des Jacques 2011 Clos de Ro- barnyard note. The tannins are forceful, so age it for an- 90 gouard (Juliénas). Full of firm tannins, this 92 chegrès (Moulin-à-Vent). This is rich, spicy other year. Wine Traditions. —R.V. Juliénas shows solid structure and ripe red fruits. The and full of red cherry flavor. It also has a dark, firm abv: 13% Price: $17 fine acidity should help the wine age, and the juicy, structure from the granite-based soil. The acidity that fruity character should appear after a year or more. APS cuts through the fruit lends balance. Age this for 2–3 Wine & Spirits. —R.V. years. Kobrand. —R.V. FLEURIE abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $NA Domaine des Nugues 2010 Fleurie. This shows fine balance between its fragrant red Clos de Haute-Combe 2011 Juliénas. An Lucien Lardy 2011 Les Thorins (Moulin- 91 fruits and firm tannins. It is a testament to how struc- attractively fruity wine, this is rich in cherry and à-Vent). A densely tannic wine, showing the 89 92 tured a Fleurie can be, with its acidity cutting through light spice flavors and is laden with acidity. It has a dry influence of Beaujolais’s granite soil, this is currently the firm structure. This is for aging for four years, when set of tannins, but it is so densely juicy that it is ready to dominated by minerality and structure rather than fruit. it will become round, with a rich texture. Paul M. Young drink now. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V. Considering the weight of the wine, the fruitiness is Fine Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22 likely to develop over the next 2–3 years. Cru Wines. abv: 13% Price: $23 Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Pardon et Fils 2011 Les Mouilles (Julié- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Lucien Lardy 2011 Les Roches (Fleurie). nas). Firm tannins set this wine on a path to ag- 89 Ripe and structured, this has finely balanced fla- ing. At the same time, it has a fine layer of intense fruiti- Château des Jacques 2011 Moulin-à- 91 vors of bitter black cherries and juicy red plums. It has ness, and it is crisp and packed with blackberry fruit. It Vent. Owned by Beaune négociant Louis Jadot, 91 great depth of flavor, and its ripeness and fruitiness will has the typical minerality and structure of Juliénas, so this wine is big, bold and fruity, with black cherry flavor develop over the next few months. No added sulfur was give it 2–3 years. Lionstone International. —R.V. and acidity. It shows the structure and the potential of used in the fermentation of this wine. Zancanella Im- abv: 13% Price: $22 wood-aged Gamay. Kobrand. —R.V. porting Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Château du Chatelard 2011 Cuvée Terre SAINT-AMOUR Château du Chatelard 2011 Cuvée les de Lumière (Moulin-à-Vent). A full-bod- Trenel Fils 2010 Saint-Amour. Named after 91 Vieux Granits (Fleurie). Ripe and fruity, this ied, rich and rounded wine, this has ripe tannins and 90 a Roman centurion rather than a god of love, is full of red cherry fruit. It has a mineral-driven struc- 90 red cherry and plum flavors. With a bite of spice and a Saint-Amour produces structured Beaujolais. With its ture that gives it a firmly textured edge and brings out chunky, solid structure, this selection can be consumed solid tannins and firm structure, this wine proves the the acidity. This could age for several years. Wineberry soon and it can also be aged. Wineberry America LLC. point. It is concentrated, with acids and minerally red America LLC. —R.V. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. fruits dominating at the moment. It needs to age for 1–2 abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $20 years. APS Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24 Domaine des Nugues 2011 Fleurie. Solid Domaine du Vissoux 2011 Les Trois and structured, this shows the firm side of Fleu- Roches (Moulin-à-Vent). Big, bold and fine- 90 91 rie. It is dominated by tannins that overlay the red berry ly concentrated, this shows both rich fruit and struc- CHÉNAS fruit and the firm plum-skin texture. With its weight and tured tannins. Notes of cherry, black plum and a touch concentration, this needs to age for another 2–3 years. Pascal Aufranc 2011 Vignes de 1939 of smoky wood come together in this wine that needs at Paul M. Young Fine Wines. —R.V. (Chénas). Made using fruit that was sourced 92 least three years to show at its best. Weygandt-Metzler. abv: 13% Price: $23 from vines planted in 1939, this wine shows the great Editors’ Choice. —R.V. concentration low yields and old vines can give. It has abv: 12.5% Price: $26 Domaine du Vissoux 2011 Les Garants Gamay’s natural freshness, with firm, dry tannins, a (Fleurie). Contrary to its flowery name, Fleu- spice note and a fragrant finish. It’s drinkable now, but Richard Rottiers 2011 Moulin-à-Vent. This 90 rie can produce firm and tannic wines, and this selec- it will be better in two years. Zancanella Importing Co. is a firm and stony wine, with dry tannins that 91 tion is a case in point. It is a solid and chunky effort that Editors’ Choice. —R.V. give structure to the intense acidity and the red cherry is laden with tannin and bitter cherry flavor. The tight abv: 12.5% Price: $35 flavor. It’s dense and concentrated, with a solid feel that acidity needs time to settle down, so give it a couple of demands several years of aging. Riahi Selections. —R.V. years. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. Domaine Chasselay 2011 La Carrière abv: 13% Price: $28 abv: 12.5% Price: $26 88 (Chénas). This is firmly tannic, with dark berry and black cherry fruits. Minerally and textured, Signé Vigneron 2011 Domane de la Pas- Lucien Lardy 2011 Les Chênes (Fleurie). it shows the full effect of Beaujolais’s granite soil. It sion (Moulin-à-Vent). An attractively bal- 89 This aromatic, red-cherry flavored wine dem- also has a rich feel that will evolve over the next several anced Moulin-à-Vent, this has firm tannins that contrast 90 onstrates the freshness of the year and the grape. It’s months. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. well with the damson flavor and tight acidity. The finish a finely textured wine that is structured and accessible, abv: 13% Price: $28 is fresh, with a hint of minerality. Margate Wine & Spirit with firm, dry tannins. It can be aged for 2–3 years. Zan- Company. —R.V. canella Importing Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 MOULIN-À-VENT abv: 12.5% Price: $22 Vignerons de Bel Air 2011 Domaine des Château des Jacques 2011 Clos du Vignerons de Bel Air 2011 Domaine de Ailes (Moulin-à-Vent). This is a rich, pow- Grand Carquelin (Moulin-à-Vent). Beau- 89 la Calèche (Fleurie). This is generous, full of 93 erful and wood-aged wine that shows fine balance be- 88 tifully perfumed, this has swathes of ripe cherry and red berry and plum fruits and lined with acidity. It has tween its ripe red fruits and solid, chunky tannins. The plum, with a hint of wood aging. The balance is already a firm structure that gives shape to its exuberant fruiti- wood rounds out the rich texture and gives character to well established, with a line of crisp acidity that sits be- ness. Ready to drink now, but it can be aged for another the full, juicy finish. G.L. Steinke Associates Inc. —R.V. hind the rich, sweet fruit. With its tannins, this needs 2–3 years. G.L. Steinke Associates Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16 to age for at least three years. Kobrand. Cellar Selec- abv: 13% Price: $16 tion. —R.V. Gérard Charvet 2011 La Réserve abv: 13% Price: $NA Pardon et Fils 2011 Domaine Pardon d’Amélie (Moulin-à-Vent). Firm and rustic, 85 (Fleurie). A ripe red-fruit note offers a per- this has red plum and berry flavors that mingle with a 87

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 fumed character to this fruity wine. A touch of banana ite soil, plus juicy red fruit. Concentrated and complex, ity cuts through the soft fruit flavors, and it has touch is the only quibble with what is otherwise a bright selec- it needs several years to mature. APS Wine & Spirits. of tannin. Ready to drink. David Milligan Selections. tion. Lionstone International. —R.V. Cellar Selection. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 13% Price: $16

Vignerons de Bel Air 2011 Le Py (Mor- Domaine Dupré 2011 Haute Ronze (Rég- CHIROUBLES 90 gon). The famed Côte de Py Vineyard in Mor- 87 nié). This is a well-balanced and rich wine, with gon has made a powerful and structured wine, with a its tannins and acids giving it a sense of structure. With Trenel Fils 2010 Chiroubles. This has a black cherry flavor that’s shaped by the dry, firm tannins. its black cherry and plum skin flavors, this is firm and mineral structure that’s laced with acidity and 89 It is concentrated, dense and generous, with strong smooth. The Wine Collective. —R.V. red currant flavor. It has a tight texture and a crisp feel, minerality and gritty texture. Age for 3–4 years. G.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 showing a serious, austere side of Beaujolais. It’s all bal- Steinke Associates Inc. —R.V. anced by the bright, crisp finish. APS Wine & Spirits. abv: 13% Price: $16 —R.V. BROUILLY abv: 13% Price: $20 Domaine Dupré 2011 Vignes de 1935 Château de la Chaize 2009 Brouilly. For (Morgon). Firmly tannic, this has has a dark Château de Raousset 2011 Chiroubles. 89 full review see page 8. plum flavor, layered with considerable density and dry- 91 Showing a mineral-driven structure and firm abv: 12.5% Price: $19 88 ness. With its juicy acidity and firm structure, this needs tannins, this is a Beaujolais that needs to age. Rich and to age. Swiss Cellars. —R.V. juicy, its perfumed red fruits currently cut through the Robert Perroud 2011 Pollen (Brouilly). abv: 13% Price: $17 dry tannins. The Wine House. —R.V. 90 Using grapes sourced from stony soil, this is a abv: 13% Price: $20 serious, tight and mineral-driven wine. It has firm tan- Laurent Gauthier 2011 Côte du Py Vie- nins that dominate the potentially juicy red fruits. Pow- illes Vignes (Morgon). Intensely juicy, this is Vignerons de Bel Air 2011 Domaine de la 89 erful and concentrated. Paul M. Young Fine Wines. packed with acidity and tight red-cherry fruit layered Source (Chiroubles). This has a firmly tannic —R.V. 88 with firm tannins. It feels a little austere at the moment, structure and juicy fruit, suggesting its aging potential. abv: 13% Price: $19 and it is likely to take time to open. Paul M. Young Fine It is rich and ripe, with black cherry and plum flavors Wines. —R.V. that create a generous finish. G.L. Steinke Associates Château de la Chaize 2010 Brouilly. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 Inc. —R.V. 88 Round, ripe and fruity, this has soft tannins that abv: 13% Price: $15 accentuate the cherry flavor and give a hint of dryness. Vignerons de Bel Air 2011 Hiver Gour- The acidity and brilliant fruit are delicious, finishing mand (Morgon). This is firm, concentrated Domaine Cheysson 2011 Chiroubles. 89 with a bright red-fruit flavor. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. and, as its name suggests, it’s ready to pair with hearty Emphasizing tannins and tight structure as abv: 12.5% Price: $20 86 fare. It has structure, followed by red cherry and blue- much as fruit, this also has a banana flavor that needs to berry fruits, and it’s finished with acidity and a dry edge. blow off by aging for 1–2 years. Wines of France. —R.V. Chateau de Pizay 2011 Château de Saint Best abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Age for 3–4 years. G.L. Steinke Associates Inc. 88 Lager (Brouilly). From the eastern slopes of Buy. —R.V. the hill of Brouilly, this attractive, open and fruity se- abv: 13% Price: $14 lection shows a fine red-fruit character that’s laced with MORGON fresh acidity. It has a firm structure, which creates a sol- Signé Vigneron 2011 Domaine de id base for the fruitiness. Drink now. David Milligan Se- Château des Jacques 2011 Côte du Py l’Oseraie (Morgon). For a Morgon, this is 88 lections. —R.V. (Morgon). Solid and dense, this shows the 92 relatively light, showing more fruit than structure, with abv: 13% Price: $16 structure and concentration from the famed Côte du Py freshness that’s tempered by a firm edge and minerality. in Morgon. It has a lot of tannins at the moment, al- Keep for a year, or drink now. Margate Wine & Spirit Robert Perroud 2011 L’Enfer des Ballo- though the potential of the red berry fruit and acidity is Company. —R.V. quets (Brouilly). Bold and fruity, this is laden evident. Age this for four years. Kobrand. —R.V. 88 abv: 13% Price: $14 with bitter cherry and juicy plum flavors. The tannins abv: 13% Price: $NA are light and attractive, with juicy, refreshing acidity­. Domaine Dupré 2011 Le Griottier (Mor- Age this for a few more months. Wine Traditions. —R.V. Chateau de Pizay 2011 Morgon. Of all the gon). 86 A griottier is an orchard of bitter cherry abv: 12.5% Price: $17 91 Beaujolais crus, Morgon is the one for aging. trees. This is fruity yet lean, with a cherry flavor. It has a This wine, with its powerful structure, exemplifies age- hollow center, with more tannins than fruit. Zancanella Signé Vigneron 2011 Château de Bag- worthiness. It is weighty and dense, with a solid feel, Importing Co. —R.V. nols (Brouilly). This is soft and full bodied, plus juicy, opulent fruit that helps to balance the wine. 87 abv: 11.5% Price: $22 with round tannins that hint at dryness. With its ripe Keep for 3–4 years. David Milligan Selections. Best red-plum and strawberry flavors, this is a pleasure to Buy. —R.V. drink now, but it is likely to age for several months. Mar- abv: 13% Price: $15 RÉGNIÉ gate Wine & Spirit Company. —R.V. Domaine Dupré 2011 Vignes de 1918 abv: 13% Price: $14 Laurent Gauthier 2011 Grands Cras Vie- (Régnié). Using fruit sourced from 94-year-old illes Vignes (Morgon). Powerful tannins 91 91 vines, this is a powerful and concentrated wine. It has a Vignerons de Bel Air 2011 Eté Indien dominate this serious, complex selection. It has consid- serious, complex mix of fruit and tannin, with notes of (Brouilly). Soft and fruity, this is a generous, erable dryness and fruit, a potentially impressive combi- 86 leather and spice that lend power and density. Age this ripe wine that’s full of juicy red-cherry fruits and gentle nation. It needs to age for several years. Paul M. Young for at least another year. The Wine Collective. Editors’ tannins. It has some richness, giving a sweet character Fine Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Choice. to this open, ready-to-drink wine. G.L. Steinke Associ- abv: 12.5% Price: $35 —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 ates Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14 Trenel Fils 2010 Côte du Py (Morgon). Chateau de Pizay 2011 Régnié. A red- The sense of structure that is so evident in 2010 91 fruited wine, this is a bright and crisp selection wines is particularly apparent in this perfumed, rich and 87 from the lightest of the Beaujolais cru villages. Its acid- firmly tannic selection. It shows the hard edges of gran-

WineMag.com | 57 CÔTE DE BROUILLY comes laced with light tannins, giving this bright wine Thorin 2012 Nouveau (Beaujolais). A clas- an open, juicy character. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. 87 sic and fun Nouveau, this has an extra side of Robert Perroud 2010 La Fournaise du abv: 13% Price: $NA firm tannin that adds weight to an otherwise bold, fruity 91 Pérou (Côte de Brouilly). Concentrated and food-friendly wine. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. fruits dominate this ripe, juicy wine. Firm tannins lend Domaine Dupré 2011 Vignes de 1940 abv: NA Price: $13 structural support to this generous, textured selection. 86 (Beaujolais-Villages). Using fruit sourced Age it for another year. Paul M. Young Fine Wines. Edi- from old vines, this is concentrated, with some rich- Chateau de Pizay 2011 Beaujolais. This is tors’ Choice. —R.V. ness and weight. Ripe red-cherry fruit mingles with bal- 86 ripe, full bodied and delicious, with a red fruit abv: 13% Price: $19 anced, dry tannins. The Wine Collective. —R.V. flavor. It has all the juicy fruitiness that is associated with abv: 12% Price: $13 Beaujolais. Drink now, even slightly chilled. David Mil- Château des Ravatys 2009 Domaine de ligan Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. 90 l’Institut Pasteur (Côte de Brouilly). Big Georges Duboeuf 2012 Nouveau (Beau- abv: 12.5% Price: $11 and ripe, this is structured with fine acids, rich berry 86 jolais-Villages). This is a classic, bold, fruity fruits and firm tannins. The ensemble is full bodied, Nouveau, with firm tannins that add weight to the pal- Domaine Chasselay 2011 La Platière juicy and elegant, finishing with crisp flavors of red ate. Pair this with food. Deutsch Family Wine & Spir- 86 (Beaujolais). For a simple Beaujolais, this cherry and pepper. The Wine Frog. —R.V. its. —R.V. has richness and fruit density. It’s as fruity as the wine abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $13 should be, but it also has firm tannins. The finish has a minerally texture along with black-currant-like acidity. Vignerons de Bel Air 2011 Eté Intense Signé Vigneron 2012 Château du Souzy Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. 87 (Côte de Brouilly). Ripe, round tannins give 86 Nouveau (Beaujolais-Villages). This shows abv: 12% Price: $25 this full-bodied wine a rich feel. With its mouthful of the depth of structure that can be found in a villages- bright red-cherry fruit, this is a delicious selection to level wine, even when it’s a Nouveau. It has weight and Henry Fessy 2012 Nouveau (Beaujolais). drink now. G.L. Steinke Associates Inc. —R.V. spicy fruit, with upfront, juicy cherry and banana fla- 86 This is a festive wine, with soft, ripe fruit and abv: 13% Price: $13 vors. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. —R.V. acidity, plus a red berry flavor. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $9 abv: 12.5% Price: $9 Trenel Fils 2011 Côte de Brouilly. A round- 86 ed wine, this has an attractive red-jelly flavor Signé Vigneron 2011 Château du Souzy Bouchard Aîné & Fils 2012 Nouveau and light acidity. It is full and rich, with fine acids on the 86 (Beaujolais-Villages). A bright and fruity 85 (Beaujolais). This is classic and fun, bold and finish. Keep for six months. APS Wine & Spirits. —R.V. wine, this is packed with red cherry flavor and fragrant fruity, with weight coming from the firm tannins. Pair abv: 13% Price: $20 acidity. Fresh and open, this is ready to drink. Margate this with food. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. Wine & Spirit Company. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 abv: 12.5% Price: $9 BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES Domaine Chasselay 2011 Les Grands Albert Bichot 2012 Nouveau (Beaujolais- 85 Eparcieux (Beaujolais). Light, juicy and Domaine des Nugues 2010 Beaujolais- 85 Villages). For a wine meant to be consumed fruity, this is classic Beaujolais. A red cherry flavor and 89 Villages. Powerful and concentrated, this has now, this is almost too tannic. It has bright fruit and a a burst of acidity come with gentle tannins. Ready to a dark red-plum flavor and solid tannins. It is dense, and flavor of black currant skin, plus a dry, tannic core. A drink. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. it shows the structure of the vintage. This is worth aging, French Paradox. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $20 and it certainly needs food to show at its best. Paul M. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Young Fine Wines. —R.V. Domaine du Vissoux 2011 Les Griottes abv: 13% Price: $16 Vignerons de Bel Air 2012 Bel Air Nou- 85 (Beaujolais). A classically fruity Beaujolais 85 veau (Beaujolais-Villages). Firm and tight, from the south of the region, this is packed with bitter Domaine des Nugues 2011 Beaujolais- this is a wine that is still shaking off its baby tannins. cherry and ripe raspberry flavors. The tannins are soft— 88 Villages. A wine with some depth, this is lay- Open this a few minutes before drinking, and its fruiti- plentiful enough to lend structure. It is delicious, juicy ered with fine tannins. The acidity and red cherry flavor ness will pair well with food. The finish is bright with and ready to drink. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. are held up by its firm structure. It’s also fruity enough acidity. G.L. Steinke Associates Inc. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $15 to be consumed now. Paul M. Young Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $16 Georges Duboeuf 2012 Nouveau Gamay Pardon et Fils 2011 Domaine Pardon Cu- 85 (Beaujolais). This has surprisingly structured Henry Fessy 2012 Nouveau (Beaujolais- 84 vée de l’Ermitage (Beaujolais-Villages). fruits and firm tannins for a Nouveau, and it still main- 87 Villages). Banana and ripe red-berry notes This has an intense aroma that’s almost overpowering, tains a juicy cherry flavor and ripe acidity. The finish create the attractive open of this bright wine. It comes leading to a wine that is firm and dry. Its red cherry fla- has a tangy, textured character. Deutsch Family Wine with a raw edge, but if slightly chilled it would make for vor is dominated by dense tannins. The perfumed char- & Spirits. —R.V. a fine apéritif. Louis Latour Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. acter, joined by acidity, remains on the finish. Lionstone abv: NA Price: $11 abv: 12.5% Price: $10 International. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Mommessin 2012 Nouveau (Beaujolais). Barton & Guestier 2011 Beaujolais-Vil- 85 Flavors of banana and red berry come with 86 lages. With just an edge of tannins that give some tannin. This exudes vibrant, in-your-face fruit a dry character to the wine, this is a step up from Bar- BEAUJOLAIS that’s crisp and juicy. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. ton & Guestier’s Beaujolais. It has firm plum and black abv: NA Price: $10 cherry flavors, with fine acidity on the finish. Barton & Domaine du Vissoux 2011 Coeur de Ven- danges (Beaujolais). Made using fruit that Guestier USA. Best Buy. —R.V. 89 Barton & Guestier 2011 Beaujolais. Light was sourced from 100-year-old vines, this has a dark col- abv: 12% Price: $10 in color, this shows red cherry and strawberry or, firm tannins and minerality, plus a solid black-plum 84 flavors. The tannins are soft, creating an easy wine that flavor. This will age for several years. Weygandt-Met- Domaine de la Madone 2012 Nouveau is ready to drink. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. zler. —R.V. 86 (Beaujolais-Villages). Red cherry fruit abv: 12% Price: $11 abv: 12.5% Price: $21

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 Jean-Claude Debeaune 2012 Nouveau come wrapped in soft tannins and crisp acidity. Wey- Bernard Magrez 2010 Château les 84 (Beaujolais). This has juicy cherry and banana gandt-Metzler. —R.V. 90 Grands Chênes (Médoc). Smooth and unc- flavors, plus smoky tannins that give this wine a struc- abv: 12% Price: $16 tuous in texture, this has dense black fruits that edge ture that’s unusual for Beaujolais Nouveau. The acidity toward dryness from the tannins. Dark chocolate and is just right, lending the finish freshness. Deutsch Fam- Chateau de Pizay 2011 Rosé d’Une Nuit licorice notes lend a bitter edge. Rich and modern in ily Wine & Spirits. —R.V. 85 (Beaujolais Rosé). This tastes bone dry, with style, this should age over the next 5–6 years. Bernard abv: 12% Price: $9 a caramel note that’s followed by light, bright notes of Magrez USA. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. red berry and apple. The finish is crisp and tight. David abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Joseph Drouhin 2012 Nouveau (Beaujo- Milligan Selections. —R.V. 84 lais). As fresh and fruity as any Nouveau should abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Château La Clare 2010 Médoc. This is a be, this also comes with a tang of black-currant-skin-like 90 smooth, balanced wine that shows notes of ripe tannin as well as red cherry fruit. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. blackberry and new wood. There is a crisp edge from —R.V. WHITE WINE the currant flavor, and the acidity gives it freshness. At- abv: 12% Price: $11 Château du Chatelard 2011 Cuvée Sécret tractive and fruity, this is for aging over the next 3–4 de Chardonnay (Beaujolais Blanc). Using years. —R.V. Paul Durdilly 2012 Les Grandes Coasses 86 fruit sourced from some of the rare chalk soils in Beau- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Nouveau (Beaujolais). Banana and ripe red- 84 jolais, this soft, floral Chardonnay shows yellow and berry flavors are attractive and bright. It has a slight raw Château le Temple 2010 Médoc. Close to citrus fruits. There is just a hint of mineral, and it’s an edge due to its youthfulness, but it would make for a the Gironde estuary, le Temple’s wines are dom- attractive wine for early drinking. Wineberry America 90 juicy apéritif if lightly chilled. Michael Skurnik Wines. inated by Cabernet Sauvignon, making for a powerful, LLC. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17 complex bottling, with great acidity and black currant abv: 12.5% Price: $NA flavor. This has potential to age for at least five years. —R.V. Signé Vigneron 2012 Domaine de Ro- BORDEAUX abv: 14% Price: $NA 84 checorbière Nouveau (Beaujolais). Full, ripe and fruity, this is Nouveau upfront. It has a deli- Château Poitevin 2010 Médoc. This has cious juicy character thats sustained with some tannins. MÉDOC 90 ripe and polished fruit, with hints of mint and It has a bright, crisp finish that’s flooded with a cherry Château Blaignan 2010 Médoc. Aromatic new wood. A ripe blackberry flavor pushes through the flavor. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. —R.V. 92 hints of new wood translate onto the smooth firm tannins, and it should become more rich over the abv: 12% Price: $8 palate. It has smoke and black currant flavors, with tan- next 5–6 years. The vineyard is situated in the northern nins that are already well integrated. Attractive acidity part of the Médoc appellation. —R.V. Trenel Fils 2011 Cuvée Rochebonne gives this a final lift. Keep it for 5–6 years. Aquitaine abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 84 (Beaujolais). Light and fruity, this has a red Wine Company. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. cherry flavor that’s filled with refreshing acidity. The -ba abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Château Tour Haut-Caussan 2010 Mé- nana flavor from the fermentation is a little too promi- 90 doc. Smooth and rich, this has fine black and nent, but this is still a bright, ready-to-drink selection. Château Chantelys 2010 Médoc. This is red cherry flavors, along with structured, dry tannins. APS Wine & Spirits. —R.V. 91 a fruity, Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated wine, There is a spice note from the wood aging, which is bal- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 with tannins that support and balance the black currant anced by the acidity. The finish has a fine, generous tex- flavor. Wood aging lightly brushes the structure. Vic- ture. Give this wine at least four years. LVDH USA Inc. Domaine Dupré 2011 Terre Noire Vieilles toire Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. —R.V. 83 Vignes (Beaujolais). This is a light wine, and abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 the fruit is dominated by acidity. It has a tart red-currant flavor, with a hint of banana. Zancanella Importing Co. Château des Lattes 2010 Médoc. Full, ripe Château Tour Saint-Vincent 2010 Médoc. —R.V. 91 and juicy, this has a flavor of fresh black-currant 90 A rich and smooth wine, this is packed with abv: 12% Price: $12 juice, which is balanced by the dry, firm tannins that black fruits that are touched with smoky tannins from promise aging. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. the wood aging. It’s full, fruity and structured on the Vignerons de Bel Air 2012 Nouveau abv: 13.5% Price: $20 palate. It will age over at least 5–6 years, but, with its 83 (Beaujolais). For a Nouveau, this has surpris- rich texture, it will be drinkable soon. Vision Wine & ingly structured fruit, with some firm tannins. It has a Château la Gravette Lacombe 2010 Mé- Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. juicy cherry flavor and ripe acidity, with a tangy, tex- 91 doc. Dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, this abv: 13.5% Price: $18 tured finish. G.L. Steinke Associates Inc. —R.V. is a firm, rich expression of the vintage. It has firm tan- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA nins, with a mineral edge and a black currant flavor. The Château Tour Seran 2010 Médoc. Ripe wine, which takes part of its name from the gravelly soil, 90 plum, dark coffee and spice flavors join the firm has a toasty wood character that plays a fine supporting tannins in this intense wine. It has a strong structure ROSÉS role. Age for five years or more. Vintage Trading LLC. that needs to soften to allow the juicy black-currant fla- Domaine des Nugues 2011 Beaujolais Editors’ Choice. —R.V. vor to surface. Give it 4–5 years. —R.V. 86 Rosé. Light and fruity, this is full of refreshing abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $37 red berry fruits, making this a clean, forward apéritif. It Château Vieux Robin 2010 Médoc. A great has fragrant acidity on the finish. Paul M. Young Fine Château Rollan de By 2010 Médoc. A mix of solid tannins and juicy fruit, this is a rich Wines. —R.V. 91 powerful selection, this is dominated by tannins. 90 abv: 12% Price: $15 Under the firm structure, there is a fruity aspect that and structured wine, with the firm character of the year will develop. It has the potential to evolve into a full- and deep blackberry flavor. It has weight and an edge of Domaine du Vissoux 2011 Les Griottes bodied, intense wine that maintains a sense of elegance. spice, finishing with acidity. BNP Distributing. Editors’ 86 Rosé (Beaujolais). Attractive and finely bal- Cellar Selection. —R.V. Choice. —R.V. anced, this has red cherry and strawberry flavors, which abv: 14% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Château Chantemerle 2010 Médoc. 89 Dense, rich and structured, this has concen-

WineMag.com | 59 trated tannins and bitter chocolate and licorice flavors, and become round, so age it for at least five years. Mon- fruity wine is proving to be drinkable already. Soft, with along with a texture similar to black plum skin. The sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. a black currant flavor, it has fine acids and spicy, toasty high proportion of ripe Cabernet Sauvignon is evident. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 touches on the finish. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $NA Château Haut Barrail 2010 Médoc. Rich 87 and fruity, this wine is finely balanced, with Château Castera 2010 Médoc. Firm, dark Château Clément Saint-Jean 2010 Mé- juicy black-plum fruit and acidity. The Merlot gives it a 85 and finely tannic, this has weight and richness, 89 doc. Dark and extracted, this has firm, dry smoky character and a ripe, fleshy texture. Age this for with a severity that dominates the fruitiness. It’s dry and tannins. It’s hard edged, but the potential of the black 3–4 years. Kirkcrest Imports. —R.V. tough, and it’s aging potential is questionable. Frederick currant fruit is apparent. Give this structured wine at abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. least five years for the rich fruit to surface. Misa Im- abv: 14% Price: $24 ports. —R.V. Château l’Argenteyre 2010 Médoc. New abv: 14% Price: $15 87 wood aromas and flavors make this selection Château du Perier 2010 Médoc. This is seem dominated by toast, giving it a dry, tannic char- 85 dark, with a dominant wood flavor that covers Château Greysac 2010 Médoc. On the aus- acter. The ripe plum fruit is submerged and is likely to the potentially ripe fruit. It is full of firm tannins, with 89 tere side, with a firm and dry tannic structure, surface only after 3–4 years of aging when a powerful, a flavor of bitter chocolate. It may be that this wine will this represents the classic style of Bordeaux. It has black upfront wine will emerge. Monsieur Touton Selection always have too much dry wood. —R.V. currant fruit and a mineral edge, with a severe struc- Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ture that demands to be aged. Palm Bay International. abv: 14% Price: $18 —R.V. Château Fleur la Mothe 2010 Médoc. This abv: 14% Price: $22 Château la Roque de By 2010 Médoc. A 85 is a smoky, wood-aged wine, with a bitter toast 87 50-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Mer- flavor that smothers the fruit. It does have the fruit Château Pierre de Montignac 2010 Mé- lot, this smoky wine has a flavor of black currant juice weight, so that toast flavor will certainly soften. But to 89 doc. With rich fruit that is balanced by tight and a lean, firmly tannic texture. It needs several years judge by the intense wood character, this bottling will acidity, this shows both the structure and the fragrant to mature. —R.V. likely always have a severe edge. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. red berry flavor of the vintage. The acids cut through abv: 13.5% Price: $NA —R.V. the wine to shape its freshness, highlighting its dark abv: 14% Price: $20 tannins. It needs to age for 4–5 years. Garagiste Wine. Château Lestruelle 2010 Médoc. This is a —R.V. 87 mint- and licorice-flavored wine, with its wood Château La Grange de Bessan 2010 Mé- abv: 13% Price: $25 aging prominent at this stage. Full bodied, rich and con- 85 doc. The wood influence in this wine is almost centrated, it shows strong signs of extraction that give too much for the fruit, even in the future. It has a se- Château Bessan Ségur 2010 Médoc. it a bitter finish. Age this tannic wine for 2–3 years or vere, burnt character that shows an herb flavor and a 88 Dense and dark in color, this wine has a black more. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. tight texture. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. currant flavor. The tannins are ripe and soft, and the tex- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 ture has a fresh lilt to it from the acidity and fruitiness. Only on the finish do the youthful tannins show, promis- Château Loustneauneuf 2010 Médoc. Château d’Escurac 2010 Médoc. This ing medium-term aging. Grape News Importing. —R.V. 87 Mint and herb aromas are followed by a struc- 84 wine has a barnyard flavor, and its black currant abv: 13.5% Price: $22 tured and tannic palate. It has balancing acidity, with fruit shows a bitter edge. The tannins are firm and dry, a juicy black-currant flavor and a dark, dry edge. Like likely to soften with age. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. Château de Panigon 2010 Médoc. Tough nearly all of the 2010s, it needs to age. Integrity Wines abv: 14.5% Price: $24 88 tannins set the scene for this firm and extracted LLC. —R.V. wine, giving it a smokiness and a touch of bitter fruit. abv: 14% Price: $16 Château la Gorre 2010 Médoc. This firmly However, the wine has the weight to support the tan- 84 tannic wine has all the structure of 2010 with- nins, and it hints at future juicy fruit. Keep this for at Château de la Croix 2010 Médoc. Full, out the fruit. It’s a skeleton without flesh, and it will be least five years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. 86 ripe and smooth, this wine has a concentrated unlikely to soften in the coming years. Jeff Wellburn Se- abv: 14% Price: $20 flavor of juicy black currants. It has attractive acidity to lections. —R.V. go with the fruit. Already drinkable, it’s not likely to age abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Château Loudenne 2010 Médoc. A classi- for a long time. PS Wines. —R.V. 88 cally structured wine, this has a smoky wood fla- abv: 13% Price: $NA Château Le Bourdieu 2010 Médoc. An ob- vor that’s balanced by a fresh black-currant note. It has 84 viously wood-aged wine, this shows a bitter toast a juicy edge, a dark chocolate note and a slight bitter- Château Moulin de Canhaut 2010 Mé- character. The fruit is lean, struggling to show through ness that should fade. This needs to age for 4–5 years. 86 doc. Smooth and modern in character, with the dark chocolate flavor. It has an austere finish, which Château Loudenne is situated by the Gironde estuary. toast and sweet-tasting fruit notes, this is a wine that is mitigated by its final acidity. Cutting Edge Selections. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. characterizes the New World school of Bordeaux wine- —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $24 making. It has extracted tannins and concentration, with abv: 13.5% Price: $20 a dark chocolate flavor. Aging will soften the extremes, Château Maison Blanche 2010 Médoc. so give it 3–4 years. —R.V. 88 While this shows its youthful tannins, it also abv: 13.5% Price: $NA OTHER LEFT BANK REDS bears blackberry fruit and juicy acidity. The chateau has Château Moulin de la Rose 2010 Saint- Château Moulin de Canhaut 2009 Médoc. produced a stylish wine that’s rich while still keeping Julien. This rare unclassified growth from The aromas and flavors of new wood are domi- 93 plenty of freshness and acidity. Age for 3–4 years. Serge 86 Saint-Julien has all of the elegance you would expect, nant in this soft, ripe wine. It has opulent black-plum Doré Selections. —R.V. and it balances firm tannins with a classic black-currant fruit that shows through the wood influence. A touch abv: 14% Price: $30 flavor. It has dark, structured tannins, with layers of of smokiness adds spice. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. wood and acidity on the fragrant finish. Keep this for Château Carcanieux 2010 Médoc. This is abv: 13.5% Price: $45 many years. Serge Doré Selections. Cellar Selection. a juicy black-currant flavored wine that’s ripe in 87 —R.V. Château Tour Prignac 2010 Médoc. Pro- tannin and in fruitiness. It has a hint of bitter extraction abv: 13.5% Price: $130 and an edge of dark wood aging, which need to soften 86 duced by the major négociant Castel, this juicy,

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 Château Ségur de Cabanac 2010 Saint- Château Lanbersac 2010 Cuvée Vieilles plex feel, and this selection will certainly benefit from 91 Estèphe. This wine that shows the ripe tannins 90 Vignes (Puisseguin Saint-Émilion). Us- aging 3–4 years. Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V. of Saint-Estèphe. It has a dry, dark core that’s surround- ing fruit that was sourced from a five-acre parcel of old abv: 13% Price: $40 ed by rich black currant fruit. Situated close to Calon- vines, the black plum fruit coddles the tannins. It shows Ségur, this is a stylish selection that exudes power and the structure and ripeness of the vintage. Fruit of the Château de Bordes-Quancard 2010 Bor- structure. Serge Doré Selections. Cellar Selection. Vines, Inc. —R.V. 88 deaux. Cherry and blackberry notes dominate —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 this ripe, full wine. It has a smoky, toasty character that abv: 13.5% Price: $105 lends good balance and aging potential. The estate is Château Croix de Mission 2010 Mon- planted with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best Château la Haye 2010 Saint-Estèphe. A 89 tagne-Saint-Émilion. Full and ripe, the Buy. —R.V. 89 mint- and spice-flavored wine, this has concen- wine’s lush texture demonstrates the dominance of abv: 13.5% Price: $10 trated tannins that structure the black plum and berry Merlot. It also has a dense, tannic character that pushes fruits. The flavors are rich, and the dense texture prom- through the rich fruit, lending balance and aging poten- Château de Sours 2010 Bordeaux. Full ises several years of aging. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. tial. Keep this for at least five years. —R.V. 88 and rich, this has flavors of spice, juicy black abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 currant and mulberry, with a fine tannin backdrop and a dry core. The wood aging has smoothed the fruity finish. Les Parcelles de Stéphane Derenoncourt Château de Reynaud 2010 Côtes de Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V. 87 2011 Haut-Médoc. With the delicious black- 88 Bourg. A finely structured wine, this has a abv: 13.5% Price: $21 currant aroma of Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a stylish, rich, juicy black-currant flavor and a solid, tannic core. fruity wine that also has a firmly tannic side. One of a It has weight and a dark, firm presence, and a smooth Cheval Quancard 2010 Réserve (Bor- range of wines produced by consultant Stéphane Dere- herbal character that highlights the wood aging. This 87 deaux). Smoky and structured, this is a wine noncourt, this wine exudes the attractive acidity and the should age for five years or more. Serge Doré Selec- that has both firm tannins and balanced, juicy fruits. It’s forward fruitiness of the vintage. Serge Doré Selections. tions. —R.V. a fine wine to drink now, especially with rich meats, and —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 it can age for a year or two. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Château Moulin de Clotte 2010 Castil- 88 lon Côtes de Bordeaux. Using fruit sourced Les Parcelles de Stéphane Derenoncourt RIGHT BANK REDS from a 20-acre vineyard in Castillon, this is dominated 85 2011 Bordeaux. This wine is mostly com- prised of Merlot that was sourced from 30 different Château Ambe Tour Pourret 2010 Saint- by Merlot, with a touch of perfumed Cabernet Franc. It has an age-worthy structure, showing good balance, firm parcels. It is smooth and ripe, with red berry fruits, soft Émilion. Initially, this is tight, minerally and 92 tannins and ripe fruit. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. tannins and attractive acids. From the hands of top con- structured, but as the wine opens, intense dark fruits abv: 13.5% Price: $19 sultant Stéphane Derenoncourt, this simple Bordeaux and rich tannins surface, creating an opulent, juicy char- has character and style. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. acter. The vineyard is planted with 75% Merlot and 25% Château Lamour 2010 Réserve Merlot abv: 13% Price: $15 Cabernet Franc, and it’s the combination in 2010 that (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux). Using fruit gives such a vital, rich and structured selection. Fruit of 86 that was sourced from a 12-acre property planted to Château de Sours 2010 La Fleur d’Amélie the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Merlot, this wine is laden with wood. A burnt edge cov- (Bordeaux). Attractive red fruits and soft tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $38 84 ers what will inevitably be attractive, ripe plum fruit. It nins make this ripe, lightly structured wine easy to drink. There are hints of herbs and red berry fruits, with Château le Manoir 2010 Cuvée Prestige has acidity on the finish, and its juicy element promises good things in 2–3 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. a touch of dryness on the finish. Drink now. Old Bridge (Lalande de Pomerol). Despite the high al- 91 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Cellars. —R.V. cohol level, this is classic Bordeaux, with style, elegance abv: 13.5% Price: $15 and fine balance between tannin and ripe black-cur- Château Lanbersac 2010 Puisseguin rant fruit. It demonstrates the concentration and rich Saint-Émilion. Swathes of ripe fruit domi- structure of the vintage, yet the finish has a light, bright, 86 nate this full wine that verges on being too alcoholic. BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR fruity touch. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. While the acidity gives it freshness and the perfumed abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Château Saint-Michel 2011 Bordeaux Su- Cabernet Franc in the blend lends lift, the wine seems 90 périeur. Dominated by ripe Merlot, this rich Château de Reynaud 2010 La Volière weighed down by its own richness. Fruit of the Vines, wine has a juicy blackberry flavor and reveals the judi- Inc. —R.V. (Côtes de Bourg). Full and rich, this has in- cious use of wood. It’s a wine that should be aged. The 90 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 tense, ripe black-plum fruit, with layers of wood aging chateau is owned by the Delon family of Château Léo- that give the wine a dry, firm character. The Malbec and ville las Cases. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. Les Parcelles de Stéphane Derenoncourt Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend give it tannic struc- abv: 14% Price: $30 2011 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. This wine ture and concentrated juiciness. Age this for at least six 86 has a smoky character and a subtle touch of wood, along years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. Château Moulin de Beauséjour 2011 Bor- with firm tannins and red fruits. Age this for 1–2 years. abv: 14% Price: $60 86 deaux Supérieur. Soft, round and balanced, Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. this ripe wine is ready to drink. It’s led by the cherry and abv: 13% Price: $18 Château de Roquebrune 2009 Cuvée black currant flavors, with dryness that comes from the 90 Reine (Lalande de Pomerol). This is a soft tannins. Latitude Wines, Inc. —R.V. lush wine that oozes with the superripe flavor of sweet BORDEAUX abv: 13.5% Price: $8 blackberry. The firm tannins and dense structure act as a counterbalance and push the wine into a more struc- Château de Sours 2010 La Source du Château Marac 2010 Bordeaux Supéri- tured sphere. The fruit quality and overall balance 90 Château de Sours (Bordeaux). The top 85 eur. From an estate in the Entre-Deux-Mers promise 4–5 years of aging. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Edi- wine from Château de Sours, this is a rich, full-bodied region, this wine is firm and concentrated, packed with tors’ Choice. —R.V. Merlot that’s piled high with ripe tannins and black­ ripe tannins and juicy blackberry fruit. Dense, with abv: 13.5% Price: $25 berry and bitter cherry flavors. Wood aging adds a com- dusty tannins, it is smooth and polished in texture. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

WineMag.com | 61 will age over the medium term. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Cahors. It certainly needs several years of aging. Euro- ROSÉ —R.V. pean Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Château de Sours 2011 Bordeaux Rosé. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 84 Fruity and fresh, this tastes off dry. There is a touch of yeastiness that blows off, leaving wild straw- Château Tour des Gendres 2011 Berger- Château du Cèdre 2009 GC (Cahors). A berry and citrus flavors, with a soft, creamy finish. Old 86 ac. This fruity wine has an aroma of tobacco 94 ripe, new-wood-dominated wine, this is smooth Bridge Cellars. —R.V. and a spicy black-currant taste. It is full bodied, and it and polished in feel, while the powerful tannins of rich abv: 12.5% Price: $18 should be kept for another year. Baron Francois Ltd. Malbec are preserved. It’s dense, dark and concentrat- —R.V. ed, and the plum and blackberry fruits are layered with abv: 14% Price: $15 the dry, firm tannins and are lightened by the juicy acid- WHITE WINES ity. This needs at least 6–7 years to show its best. Mar- tine’s Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Château de Sours 2010 La Source du CÔTES DE BERGERAC abv: 14% Price: $130 89 Château de Sours (Bordeaux Blanc). This Château Tour des Gendres 2009 Le Petit wood-aged wine has richness, toastiness and a concen- Château du Cèdre 2009 Le Cèdre (Ca- Bois (Côtes de Bergerac). Also labeled Par- tration of pink grapefruit and fresh kiwi flavors. It’s full 94 hors). One of the two top wines from Cèdre, cel A1611, this new release from Tour des Gendres is a 94 and it shows some herbaceousness. It needs to age for this selection is named after the cedar tree in the win- wine made using fruit sourced from a single parcel. It’s 3–4 years. Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V. ery’s courtyard. It’s elegant and powerful, and its weight rich and concentrated, with a juicy black-plum flavor. abv: 13% Price: $35 comes from the firm tannins, sweet fruits and fresh ac- While the wood influence is present, it isn’t dominant. ids. The structure is present, but it’s the ripe fruit that Château de Sours 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This should age for at least six years. Baron Francois is seductive. Age this for many years. Martine’s Wines. Notes of bitter almond and fresh citrus come to- Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 86 Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 —R.V. gether in this fruity selection. It’s bright, crisp and light- abv: 13.5% Price: $60 ly herbaceous, with a pineapple flavor. Ready to drink Château Tour des Gendres 2009 La now. Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V. Jean-Luc Baldès 2008 Clos Triguedina Gloire de Mon Père (Côtes de Berger- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 92 Les Petites Cailles (Cahors). This is a taut, ac). Profiting from the ripe 2009 vintage, this full, ele­ 94 dense and minerally wine that’s packed with as much Château Marac 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. gant wine has a dense, concentrated texture. Named tannin as black currant fruit. The structure and layers Herbaceous and fruity, this has a textured char- in memory of winemaker Luc de Conti’s father, this is 86 of acidity demand long-term aging. European Wine Im- acter, with an orange zest note and a strong lemon juici- packed with stylish blackberry fruit and ripe tannins. ports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Age for at least four years. Baron Francois Ltd. Edi- ness. It’s fresh and ready to drink, but it will likely age abv: 13.5% Price: $25 for a few years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. tors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $12 Château de Cénac 2010 Eulalie (Ca- hors). This top cuvée made by the Pelvillain Château de Sours 2011 La Fleur d’Amélie Château Tour des Gendres 2010 Les 93 family shows typical black Malbec color, and it has an (Bordeaux Blanc). Fruity and lightly herba- Gendres (Côtes de Bergerac). One of the 85 91 opulent texture that’s packed with notes of rich spice, ceous, this has fine textured acidity along with a pink single parcel releases (this is numbered A307), this is a black plum and balanced wood. While the tannins are grapefruit flavor. The wine is bright and easy, and it will pure Merlot that’s earthy, rich and smoky. Intense and present, the fruit offers a full, rich character. With its be ready to drink in a few months. Old Bridge Cellars. concentrated, it has acidity that balances the ripe fruit. concentration, this will benefit from several years of ag- —R.V. Age this wine for 4–5 years. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. ing. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $55 abv: 13.5% Price: $54 Château Thénac 2009 Côtes de Berger- Château Haut-Monplaisir 2009 Pur Plai- ac. Big, bold and black in color, this wine is full SOUTHWEST FRANCE 90 sir (Cahors). Using fruit sourced from old, of new wood perfumes, and it has a smooth, polished 93 RED WINES low-yielding vines, this is black in color and in taste, with texture. Rich, fruity and firmly balanced, it has dark tan- ripe black-plum and licorice flavors that show toasty nins that create a powerful structure. It offers some ag- wood influence. Although the wine’s name translates to BERGERAC ing potential. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Editors’ Choice. “pure pleasure,” the true pleasure will be revealed in Château Laulerie 2009 Elevé en Fûts de —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 five years when it will become opulent and powerful. 89 Chêne (Bergerac). A ripe wine, this shows Vintage ’59 Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. the richness of the 2009 vintage. The tannins are well Château Trolliet Lafite 2009 Côtes de abv: 15% Price: $55 integrated into the blackberry fruit, creating a smooth Bergerac. A classic Bordeaux-style blend, but and opulent wine that’s worth aging but is also ready to 88 Georges Vigouroux 2009 Cuvée Icône du mainly Merlot, this wine has a ripe feel, with a firm, drink now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Château de Haute-Serre (Cahors). Made dense structure. It has weight and ripe blackberry fruit, 93 abv: 14.5% Price: $19 using fruit sourced from the high-elevation Haute- plus a fine line of acidity. Wait for two years, although it Serre estate, this wine is surprisingly elegant despite the Château Laulerie 2010 Le Raisin (Berger- is drinkable now. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 high alcohol. It has a fresh blackberry flavor, with acidity 87 ac). This has spice and dried fruit notes, plus that’s balanced by the stewed-fruit richness. The tarry firmly structured tannins. The refreshing acidity part- texture and firm tannins all promise long-term aging. ners with the fruit, creating a wine that still needs a few CAHORS Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. years to age. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $140 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Jean-Luc Baldès 2008 Clos Triguedina 95 Les Galets (Cahors). Using fruit sourced Georges Vigouroux 2009 Cuvée Icône Château Thénac 2009 Fleur du Périgord from a single vineyard with great sun exposure, this 93 du Château de Mercuès (Cahors). While 87 (Bergerac). Ripe plum and blackberry fruits wine takes its name from the stony soil. It provides great this is big, powerful and rich, it keeps a sense of propor- push this wine forward, with firm tannins and smoki- balance between the dense black fruit and the taut, tion and elegance. A dark chocolate flavor and firm tan- ness. Full and juicy in feel, this is a fruity wine that is minerally texture, expressing the essence of Malbec in nins show the wood influence, while the rich blueberry- immediately accessible and friendly. It’s a wine that

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 compote note brings in both texture and fruitiness. This Château Haut-Monplaisir 2009 Cahors. it is likely to be ready to be drink in the next 2–3 years. needs at least 6–7 years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spir- 91 Solid and perfumed, this expresses all the pow- Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. its. Cellar Selection. —R.V. er of Malbec, with a fruitiness that comes through the abv: 14% Price: $24 abv: 14.5% Price: $140 firm, dry tannins. Notes of new wood and juicy plum combine well in this concentrated, full-bodied effort, Château Ponzac 2009 Patiemment (Ca- Georges Vigouroux 2009 Cuvée Icône which needs several years to age. Vintage ’59 Imports. 89 hors). Ripe, smooth and balanced, this wine 93 du Château Leret Monpezat (Cahors). A Editors’ Choice. —R.V. shows firm tannins and a solid, chunky build. With its ripe, wood-aged wine, this has a wood element that’s in- abv: 14% Price: $19 rich black-plum fruit and opulent texture, it will be tensely spicy and toasty. The weight of the sweet plum ready to drink in 2–3 years. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. fruit and tannins are equally powerful and concentrat- Georges Vigouroux 2009 Château de abv: NA Price: $25 ed. A selection of the best of Château Leret Monpezat, 91 Mercuès (Cahors). Huge and concentrat- this will need at least five years of aging before it should ed, this is packed with dense tannins. The opulent Georges Vigouroux 2009 Château Le- be touched. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection. black fruit shows a sumptuous character, balanced by 89 ret Monpezat (Cahors). Fragrant, soft and —R.V. a mineral-driven texture. With its great weight and its fruity, this has weight and firm tannins, which meld with abv: 14.5% Price: $130 firm structure, this needs to age for at least six years. the juicy blackberry flavor. The result is a forward and Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. ready-to-drink wine. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Château de Gaudou 2010 abv: 14.5% Price: $24 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 92 (Cahors). A powerful, wood-aged wine, this shows weighty black fruit and a toasty character. It is con- Georges Vigouroux 2009 Château Pech Georges Vigouroux 2009 Château Leret centrated and solid, yet it has a soft and rich side as well. 91 de Jammes (Cahors). Located on high 89 Réserve (Cahors). Big and properly dense in The tarry, tannic character needs at least four years to ground to the east of Cahors, this estate was replanted texture, this has a great swathe of pure black-plum fla- soften. Wine Wine Situation LLC. —R.V. in the 1980s at a high density. Rich, smooth and dense, vor. It’s ripe and filled out with dusty tannins.. Fruit of abv: 14% Price: $26 this shows concentrated ripe plum and juicy blackber- the Vines, Inc. —R.V. ry flavors and, above all, firm tannins. Wood aging has abv: 14% Price: $17 Château de Gaudou 2009 Réserve Cail- smoothed the rough edges. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Edi- 92 lou (Cahors). Made using fruit sourced from tors’ Choice. —R.V. Lionel Osmin & Cie 2011 Cahors. Bold a parcel of vines more than 60 years old, this is a dense, abv: 13% Price: $25 89 fruit characterizes this firm, fruity Cahors. It dark wine, with herb, dark fig and plum notes. Solid and has the dark tannins of Malbec, which are supported by concentrated, it has a firm texture, and the dusty tannins Château de Gaudou 2010 Grand Lignée the rich black-fruit flavor and touches of licorice, black match well with the ripe fruit. Age for 7–8 years. Wine 90 (Cahors). Big and concentrated, this wine’s cherry and black currant. Age this for another 2–3 years. Wine Situation LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. spice and dark fruit flavors are sustained by solid tannins Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $35 and acids. It has a rich texture that’s laced with acidity, abv: 14% Price: $19 so give this concentrated wine another 4–5 years. Wine Georges Vigouroux 2009 Château de Wine Situation LLC. —R.V. Château de Gaudou 2010 Tradition (Ca- 92 Haute-Serre Cuvée Géron Dadine de abv: 14% Price: $22 88 hors). This blend of Merlot, Malbec and Tan- Haute-Serre (Cahors). This smoky wine is filled with nat is soft and rich. With its ripe plum fruit, rich texture licorice and bitter chocolate notes. Powerful and con- Château du Cèdre 2009 Cahors. At this and soft, dusty tannins, this feels full on the palate. The centrated, this has a dense character, with damson fruit 90 stage, the wine feels lean, austere and miner- finish shows crisp acidity. Wine Wine Situation LLC. that is buried beneath the structure. Age it for at least ally, despite the richness of the vintage. But this black-­ —R.V. five years. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. currant-driven wine is likely to age impressively. And abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $49 with its dense tannins, it shouldn’t be touched for at least four years. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. Château du Port 2010 Tertre-Perdigous Georges Vigouroux 2009 Pure Malbec by abv: 13% Price: $30 88 (Cahors). Soft and already approachable, this 92 Pech de Jammes (Cahors). A wood-ma- is a red-fruited wine, with ripe, well-integrated tannins tured wine that is made for aging, this is closed, firm and Château du Port 2010 Cuvée Prestige and juicy acidity. It’s round, fruity and ready to drink. dry, with considerable potential evident in the rich fruit 90 (Cahors). Using fruit sourced from old vines, Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. that sits underneath the structure. Keep this for 5–6 this firm, tannic and concentrated wine has a fine bal- abv: 13% Price: $16 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. ance between the dense texture and bright black-plum abv: 13% Price: $49 and berry flavors. Given its tannic structure, it needs Georges Vigouroux 2010 Château de to age, although it would be a great accompaniment 88 Mercuès Le Vassal de Mercuès (Cahors). Jean-Luc Baldès 2008 Clos Triguedina to a stew if consumed now. Marsalle/Stoler Company. This is the second wine of Château de Mercuès, and it 92 Au Coin du Bois (Cahors). Rich and full- —R.V. has some of the same concentration and tannins as the bodied, this has a ripe plum flavor and a smoky note abv: 12.5% Price: $25 first wine, without the huge and powerful structure. It from having aged in wood. Dark in color and powerful, will develop its black cherry and spice flavors relative- this is capable of aging for another 3–4 years. European Château Haut-Monplaisir 2009 Prestige ly quickly, to a ready-to-drink wine in 2–3 years. Wine Imports. —R.V. 90 (Cahors). Full of new wood and tannic flavors, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 this is dense, dry, very firm. It does suffer from some abv: 14% Price: $16 licorice overextraction that gives the wine a bitter edge. Château de Cénac 2010 Cuvée Prestige At the same time, the wine has a full and firm character Château du Cèdre 2010 Cèdre Heritage 91 (Cahors). Strong aromas of new wood domi- that promises a softening over the next several years. 87 (Cahors). Rich and fruity, this is full of red nate the opening, and they follow through to the con- Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. berry and black plum fruits, sustained by dense, power- centrated palate, creating a wine that only shows wood abv: 14.5% Price: $25 ful tannins. The wine manages to balance freshness with and licorice flavors at this stage. Let this age for at least a solid, dry core. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. four years. Marsalle/Stoler Company. Editors’ Choice. Georges Vigouroux 2009 Château de abv: 13.5% Price: $17 —R.V. 90 Haute-Serre (Cahors). Dense and concen- abv: 13.5% Price: $26 trated, with a mint flavor from the new wood, this is Georges Vigouroux 2010 Château Laf- a wine that combines rich plum and blackberry flavors 87 leur de Haute-Serre (Cahors). This is a with firm tannins and juicy acids. Because it is so rich, fruity wine with juicy acids and fresh black-currant and

WineMag.com | 63 berry flavors. The tannins are present, but they are well Domaine du Moulin 2011 Florentin (Gail- and complex, it can be aged for 4–5 more years. Verity integrated into the fruit and acidity. It’s bright and ready 91 lac). Gaillac has its own range of indigenous Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —R.V. to drink. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. grapes, including the dark-colored Braucol. In this abv: 15% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $16 100% varietal wine, the unusual herbal and floral char- acter of the grape is combined with powerful tannins Alain Brumont 2008 Château Montus Garriotin 2011 Sélection (Cahors). A red- and rich berry flavors. With its structure, this needs to 93 (Madiran). Powerful and structured, with a 86 fruited wine, this is soft and ready to drink. age 2–3 years. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. dense texture, this is packed with dark, brooding tan- Made from fruit sourced near the Lot River, this has abv: 14% Price: $45 nins. It’s intense and concentrated with damson fruit. ripe tannins and a juicy heart. Marsalle/Stoler Compa- Ready for long aging. Verity Wine Partners. Cellar Se- ny. —R.V. Domaine Rotier 2009 Renaissance (Gail- lection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23 91 lac). Aged for a year in wood, this powerful, abv: 14.5% Price: $NA complex wine has big, burly black-fruit flavors that Georges Vigouroux 2011 Gouleyant (Ca- come with a well-integrated toast character. It will cer- Château d’Aydie 2010 Aydie l’Origine 86 hors). Produced to be consumed young, this is tainly age and, despite its fruitiness, it shouldn’t be con- 93 (Madiran). This is smooth, rich and elegant, a breezy, fruity selection. Its black plum-skin texture is sumed for at least four years. OZ Wine Company. Edi- with black fruits and acids that are contained within a balanced by firm tannins and a medicinal, herby-filled tors’ Choice. —R.V. firm, understated structure. It has power, but it’s con- aftertaste. Not for long aging. Baron Francois Ltd. abv: 14.5% Price: $23 tained in a velvet glove. Tru Wines LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Domaine du Moulin 2010 Vieilles Vignes abv: 14% Price: $12 89 (Gaillac). A blend of Braucol and Merlot, this Georges Vigouroux 2011 Pigmentum exotic wine features ripe juiciness and tannins. It is full Château d’Aydie 2010 Madiran Laplace 85 Malbec (Cahors). This is an earthy effort that in the mouth, with intense acidity running alongside 92 (Madiran). A rich, full-bodied wine from one shows the tough soil of Cahors in its minerally, tight the fruit and strong herb flavors. It has firm structure of the masters of Tannat, Pierre Laplace, this has ripe character. Dark in color, this is laced with intense ac- and concentration that promise good aging. Michael tannins and layers of toast, black plum and berry, with ids and firm tannins. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Skurnik Wines. —R.V. intense acidity on the finish. Polaner Selections. Best —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Domaine Rotier 2010 Les Gravels (Gail- 89 lac). Bright and fruity, this blend of Duras, Br- Château d’Aydie 2009 Madiran. A new- FRONTON aucol and Syrah comes with a spice note and a firm edge 92 wood-dominated wine, this has a heavy toast Château Bouissel 2010 Le Bouissel of tannins. It is rich and intensely fruity, with notes of character, with extracted licorice and dark chocolate fla- vors as well as a big black-plum note. Rich and weighty, (Fronton). This blend of Négrette, Syrah and black cherries and berries complementing each other. 91 with juicy acidity, this demands many years of aging. Tru Malbec sourced from vineyards close to Toulouse is The acidity and firm finish suggest it will age for 3–4 Wines LLC. —R.V. dense, ripe and packed with spicy black-plum fruit. It’s years. OZ Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $35 opulent and generous, with a smooth rich texture, sweet abv: 14.5% Price: $18 tannins and a hint of wood aging. This needs 2–3 years Lionel Osmin & Cie 2011 Gaillac. A blend Château d’Aydie 2009 Odé d’Aydie to mature. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. (Madiran). A dense, dark-colored wine, this abv: 14% Price: $19 88 of Duras and Braucol, this is initially all struc- 91 ture—firm and tannic. Gradually the red cherry and reveals the full power of Tannat’s tannins. It also has Château Bouissel 2011 La Négrette de berry fruits show, giving it a juicy character. Balanced tarry black-fruit and licorice flavors, with a foursquare chunky character. It’s drinkable now, but it will be less Bouissel (Fronton). This is an aromatic wine, with acidity, this shows the potential to age for a few 89 stark in 4–5 years. Five Grapes. —R.V. with smooth tannins that make this ready to drink. With years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. abv: 14% Price: $22 age it will gain complex spicy flavors, with richness and —R.V. juicy acidity on the finish. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 14% Price: $19 Domaine du Moulin 2010 Gaillac. A black- OTHER RED WINES Château Bouissel 2010 Classic (Fron- 87 fruited wine with a strong sense of structure and Château Laulerie 2009 Comtesse de Sé- 88 ton). Made using fruit sourced from vineyards wood, it has spice and black-plum flavors that are held 91 gur (Montravel). Using fruit sourced from on the highest terrace above the Tarn River, this fruity together by tannins. This can age for a few years. Mi- vineyards on an eastward extension of the ridge of Cas- wine is made to be consumed young. It has a touch of chael Skurnik Wines. Best Buy. —R.V. tillon and Saint-Emilion in Bordeaux, this finely struc- minerality and some firm tannins, but the red berry fruit abv: 12.5% Price: $12 tured wine shows a judicious amount of oak influence, and flower note is already attractive. A blend of Né- which supports the ripe blackberry flavor. It’s a complex, Georges Vigouroux 2008 Château Baron grette, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Baron spicy effort, and its fruit is finely layered with acidity and (Gaillac). A blend of Syrah and Braucol from Francois Ltd. —R.V. 87 toast. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 the slopes above Gaillac, this fruity, friendly wine has abv: 14.5% Price: $20 notes of spice and red berry. It’s attractively juicy, with soft tannins, and it’s ready to drink now. Fruit of the Domaine du Moulin 2010 Le Faucon GAILLAC Vines, Inc. —R.V. 90 (Côtes du Tarn). A blend of Braucol and Tan- abv: 13% Price: $16 nat, this a dark-colored blockbuster, with firm tannins Domaine Rotier 2009 L’Ame (Gaillac). A that are mitigated by the smooth, rich blackberry flavor. smooth, wood-matured wine, this shows all of 93 It has power, immense concentration and great densi- the richness of Braucol and Duras. Named “the spirit,” MADIRAN ty. Age for 3–4 years. Michael Skurnik Wines. Editors’ it is a true evocation of the rugged nature of Gaillac, Alain Brumont 2003 Château Montus Cu- Choice. —R.V. with a mineral streak and a big black-fruit flavor. Age for vée Prestige (Madiran). Made from Tannat abv: 15% Price: $30 4–5 years. OZ Wine Company. —R.V. 94 abv: NA Price: $45 and aged in new wood, this is a dense and tannic selec- tion that boasts jammy fruit and an opulent feel. Vibrant Château de Cénac 2011 Albatros (Lot). 89 This is full bodied, firm and fruity, with solid

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 tannins and concentrated flavors of black fruit, tar, lic- SOUTHWEST FRANCE Domaine du Moulin 2010 Blanc Sec Vie- orice and wood. Marsalle/Stoler Company. Best Buy. 88 illes Vignes (Gaillac). A blend of Sauvignon —R.V. WHITE WINES Blanc and Loin de l’Oeil, this is ripe, fruity and per- abv: 13% Price: $12 fumed. It has an attractive floral character, with flavors BERGERAC SEC of toast and hedgerow. It’s ready to drink, but it could Château Bouissel 2010 Le Syrah de Bou- age. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. 88 issel (Comté Toulosan). A full-bodied, ex- Château Tour des Gendres 2010 Anthlo- abv: 13% Price: $15 tracted wine, this has a flavor of dark cherry and a hint 90 gia de Conti (Bergerac Sec). With richness of chocolate. It’s a big, in-your-face style, with firm tan- and alcohol similar to some California Chardonnays, Georges Vigouroux 2011 Château Baron nins and a solid, chunky structure. Baron Francois Ltd. this is a far cry from the more elegant whites of the re- 88 (Gaillac). A crisp and fruity blend of the herba- —R.V. gion. A blockbuster selection, this is packed with yellow ceous Sauvignon Blanc and the creamy Loin de l’Oeil, abv: 14% Price: $19 fruit and herb flavors, showing fine concentration and this has apple and grapefruit flavors. It has a bright feel, depth of flavor. Ready to drink, but it will age for 3–4 with a hint of mineral on the finish. Fruit of the Vines, Georges Vigouroux 2009 Château Tour- years. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 88 nelles (Buzet). While most production of abv: 14.5% Price: $85 abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Buzet is controlled by the local cooperative, a few sepa- rate estates exist, such as this chateau. This is an elegant Château Thénac 2011 Fleur du Périg- blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, with 88 ord (Bergerac Sec). The intense herbaceous JURANÇON SEC a ripe, full, Bordeaux-style feel. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. aroma is softened on the palate by the wine’s lemon- Domaine Cauhapé 2010 Sève d’Automne —R.V. curd flavor and smooth texture. Rich with intense fruiti- (Jurançon Sec). A blend of 70% Gros Man- abv: 14.5% Price: $19 ness, this has notes of black currant and pink grapefruit, 92 seng and 30% Petit Manseng, this is a serious, full-bod- with bright acidity on the finish. T. Edward Wines Ltd. ied wine that’s rich and concentrated. It has weight, ripe Georges Vigouroux 2010 Pigmentum —R.V. quince and green plum flavors, and strong herb and (Buzet). Using fruit sourced from a small ap- abv: 13% Price: $19 87 honey elements. It is ready to drink, although it should pellation to the west of Cahors and east of Bergerac, this last up to a year. Planet Wine. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. blend of Merlot and Malbec shows a light, approach- Château Thénac 2009 Fleur du Périgord abv: 14.5% Price: $18 able character. It’s full of red berry fruit, with sweet tan- 88 (Bergerac Sec). Exhibiting all the richness of nins and juicy acids on the finish. Deutsch Family Wine the vintage, this is a round, ripe, spicy wine. It has a Château Jolys 2010 Cuvée Pauline (Ju- & Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. full, warm, creamy feel, with notes of almonds and ripe rançon Sec). An opulent wine, this shows the abv: 13.5% Price: $12 peaches. Only on the finish does the suggestion of white 91 beautiful, ripe fruit of 2010. Packed with apricot, white Bergerac’s characteristic herbaceousness show. T. Ed- peach and white fig flavors, this full-bodied blend of Lionel Osmin & Cie 2010 Mansois (Mar- ward Wines Ltd. —R.V. Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng also has a honeyed cillac). Marcillac is one of the more remote abv: 14% Price: $19 87 touch. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. French regions located in the hills of the Massif Cen- abv: 14.5% Price: $27 tral. Mansois is the local red grape, and here it has pro- Château Tour des Gendres 2011 Cuvée duced a perfumed wine, with red berry fruit that’s lined des Contis (Bergerac Sec). This is full of 88 Domaine Cauhapé 2011 Chante des Vi- with herb and lavender notes. It has a tense streak of crisp, herbaceous flavors of apple, grapefruit and lime. gnes (Jurançon Sec). A blend of Gros Man- acidity that cuts through the palate, leaving a balance of It has weight and concentration, with some richness to 91 seng and Camarelet, this fruity effort is packed with fruit and dry tannin. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine its freshness. Acidity cuts through on the finish. Age this flavors of apricot and peach, plus a rich, exotic mango Partners. —R.V. for 2–3 years. Five Grapes. —R.V. twist. Delicious to drink now. Planet Wine. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $19 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $16 Château du Cèdre 2011 Cedrus (Comté Château Tour des Gendres 2010 Moulin Domaine Bru-Baché 2008 Les Casterass- Toulosan). The lightest wine in the range of des Dames (Bergerac Sec). This wine is 86 88 es (Jurançon Sec). A warm, ripe, apricot-fla- wines produced at Château du Cèdre, this is dominated named after a windmill on the Conti family property. It 90 vored wine, this has a smooth feel, with notes of pear by sweet, soft red fruit. Attractive, bright and fruity, this is rich, with a spicy new-wood flavor. While it has plen- and anise. The acidity adds to the minerality and tex- is ready for drinking now. Martine’s Wines. Best Buy. ty of structure, the acidity is subdued. Baron Francois ture. For drinking now. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. Ltd. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $11 abv: 14% Price: $45 abv: 13% Price: $25 Château Laulerie 2011 Bergerac Sec. Domaine Bru-Baché 2005 Les Caster- ROSÉS Light, fruity and herbaceous, this has a crisp 85 asses (Jurançon Sec). This blend of Petit grapefruit flavor, laced with lemon. Soft and fresh, this 90 Château Laulerie 2011 Rosé (Bergerac). Manseng and Gros Manseng shows fresh apricot fruit, is ready to drink now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. 84 A caramel-flavored blend of Merlot and Caber- abv: 12% Price: $14 with delicate acidity and nervy texture. It’s not for aging, net Sauvignon, this also has fresh, fruity, red-berry-like so drink it now. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. acidity. Dry, crisp and fragrant. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. abv: 13% Price: $30 —R.V. GAILLAC abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Château de Jurque 2011 Fantaisie (Ju- Domaine Rotier 2010 Renaissance (Gail- 87 rançon Sec). Smooth and rich, this 50-50 Georges Vigouroux 2011 Pigmentum 90 lac). This is structured and textured, with white blend of Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng has ripe fla- 84 Rosé (Lot). Full bodied and rich, this has fla- fruit flavors complemented by almond and mineral vors of peach and kiwi that are layered with acidity and vors of spice, red plum and caramel. It’s quite heavy and notes, along with some toast from having aged in wood. hints of herb and honey. It’s fruity, but it also shows a dense, so drink it with food. Deutsch Family Wine & Concentrated and edgy, this needs to age for another mineral-driven structure. Wineberry America LLC. Spirits. —R.V. two years. OZ Wine Company. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $20

WineMag.com | 65 Château Jolys 2011 Jurançon Sec. A (Comté Toulosan). This is a full-bodied, rich and fresh acidity. This is fruity and fragrant, with a peach- 87 creamed apple aroma is followed by a creamy fruity wine. It has a smooth texture that’s embellished like crispness, and it’s worth keeping for another 3–4 palate. It has tight acidity that lends brightness and with flavors of apricots and green plums. The finish years. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. Cellar Selec- freshness, with a crisp, fruity finish. Baron Francois has a tangy, minerally edge. European Wine Imports. tion. —R.V. Ltd. —R.V. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $50 abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $25 Château Jolys 2010 Cuvée Jean (Juran- Domaine Bru-Baché 2010 Jurançon Sec. Château de Cénac 2011 Albatros Char- 90 çon). This sweet wine balances acidity with 86 Nervy and tangy, this is laced with flavors of ripe 87 donnay-Viognier (Lot). Using fruit sourced honeyed fruit. There is a touch of botrytis to go with the apricot, lemon and lime zest as well as notes of basil from vineyards close to Cahors, this is a rich, soft, orange marmalade and lemon peel flavors, while the cit- and green apple skin. With its exotic, juicy character and tropical-fruit-flavored wine that shows how the Medi- rus-like acids cut across the palate. This is fine to drink tense acidity, this is a wine for food. Kermit Lynch Wine terranean influence reaches this inland area. It is rich, now, yet it will also age for many years. Baron Francois Merchant. —R.V. with notes of apricot, green plum and mango. Ready to Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $19 drink. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $19/375 ml abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Domaine Cauhapé 2010 Ballet d’Octobre CÔTES DE GASCOGNE Baron d’Arignac 2011 White (Gers). Sim- 90 (Jurançon). This is a lightly sweet wine, with a soft hint of honey. It shows peach and mango flavors, Mont Gravet 2011 Côtes de Gascogne. 85 ilar in style to a Côtes de Gascogne, this is a fruity, ripe and attractively light wine. The crisp, re- along with a round texture from the superripe late-har- For full review see page 13. Best Buy. 87 vest grapes. The finish is fresh and crisp. Planet Wine. abv: 11.5% Price: $9 freshing palate dances along. Advantage International. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Georges Vigouroux 2011 Pigmentum abv: 11.5% Price: $7 Domaine Bru-Baché 2010 Jurançon. The Ugni Blanc-Colombard (Côtes de Gas- 86 lightest of the dessert wines made by Claude cogne). This is properly fresh and fruity, with delicious 88 Loustalot, this is fruity, fragrant and medium sweet, herb and ripe apricot notes. Light, refreshing and crisp, SPARKLING WINE with refreshing acidity. The crisp texture combines hints this is ready to drink. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Domaine du Moulin NV Methode Ances- of honey and apricot jam. Drink now. Kermit Lynch —R.V. trale Brut (Gaillac). Dry, bright and aromatic, 86 Wine Merchant. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12 this has notes of fresh apple and crisp pear, plus a touch abv: 12% Price: $23 of herb. The méthode ancestrale involves finishing the Tortoise Creek 2011 Cuvée Jeanne Sau- first fermentation in the bottle rather than, as with mé- 86 vignon Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). A thode Champenois, having a second fermentation. Mi- OTHER DESSERT WINES fresh, fragrant and herbaceous wine, this dances light- chael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. ly and brightly on the palate. Flavors of grapefruit and abv: 12% Price: $15 Domaine Rotier 2009 Renaissance Doux lime come with crisp acidity, lending a mouth-tingling 92 (Gaillac Doux). Fermented in wood, this rich, finish. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. sweet effort shows the roundness, rather than the fla- abv: 12% Price: $11 JURANÇON vor, of barrel maturation. It’s dominated by full-bodied flavors of honey and lemon, fig and quince. The finish Domaine Bru-Baché 2006 L’Eminence shows acidity, keeping this opulent wine in balance. OZ (Jurançon). Ripe, smooth and gold in color, OTHER WHITE WINES 94 Wine Company. —R.V. this is a nectar-like wine. It has a honeyed note and a dry abv: 13.5% Price: $35/500 ml Alain Brumont 2009 Château Montus edge from botrytis, with an opulent, complex texture. It Blanc (Pacherenc du Vic Bilh). The white 90 also has lively acidity that offers the purest expression Jean-Luc Baldès 2009 Clos Triguedina wine at Montus is a blend of many of the local grapes, of Petit Manseng. A great wine to drink at the end of a L’Or du Clos (Comté Toulosan). Chen- including the rare Petit Courbu. It has a herbaceous meal, or with a rich terrine at the start. Kermit Lynch 90 in Blanc from Cahors makes sweet wines with intense character that’s broadened with toast and lively acidity. Wine Merchant. Cellar Selection. —R.V. acidity. This rich, concentrated effort has yellow fruit Finely perfumed and rich, it has an apple- and quince- abv: 14% Price: $128 and ample texture, and it needs to age for 2–3 years. flavored finish. Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. European Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Domaine Cauhapé 2010 Symphonie de abv: 13% Price: $32/500 ml 94 Novembre (Jurançon). Concentrated and Georges Vigouroux 2010 Haute-Serre luscious, this has notes of dried apricot and fig, with a Domaine du Moulin-Pouzay 2010 Monba- Albesco Chardonnay (Lot). An attractive, dense texture reminiscent of honey and orange marma- 89 zillac. A soft, honeyed wine, this has hints of rich and creamy Chardonnay, this balances acidity with lade. It has a strong mineral structure that melds with 85 botrytis, orange marmalade and a spicy touch. Ready to tropical fruit and wood flavors. Made using fruit from a the ripe generosity. Savor this intense wine alone at the drink now. Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V. parcel in the Haute-Serre Vineyard, this is a wine that end of a meal or with blue cheese. Planet Wine. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $26 has an edge of minerality as well as ripe, textured fruit. abv: 14% Price: $24/375 ml Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $29 Domaine Cauhapé 2010 Noblesse du AUSTRIA 93 Temps (Jurançon). The Petit Manseng Château Laulerie 2010 Comtesse de grape gives a honeyed, ripe and fragrant wine. Made 88 Ségur (Montravel). This is herbaceous, but from late-harvest fruit, this shows notes of pineapple GRÜNER VELTLINER it also has a ripe yellow-fruit character. It is fresh and and creamed apple. It should age well over many years. Bründlmayer 2011 Loiser Berg Erste crisp, with a great depth of flavor. Its bright acidity and Planet Wine. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 95 Lage Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). tight-textured finish make this a food wine. Fruit of the abv: 14% Price: $NA Pure and fruity, this has a fine line of steely acidity that Vines, Inc. —R.V. cuts through the crisp apple fruit. The Loiser Berg is a abv: 13% Price: $20 Domaine Bru-Baché 2008 La Quintes- south-facing, sheltered site that helps to create a taut 92 sence (Jurançon). One of a pair of gor- Jean-Luc Baldès 2010 Clos Triguedina geous Petit Manseng-based dessert wines by Claude 88 Le Sec du Clos Chardonnay-Viognier Loustalot, this has richness but also lightness from the

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 wine with considerable aging potential. Keep for 4–5 Rotenpüllen is made up of glacial deposits. Winesellers Bründlmayer 2011 Steinmassel Erste years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Ltd. —R.V. 92 Lage Riesling (Kamptal). Made using fruit abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $20 from one of the top Kamptal vineyards, this perfumed wine has great texture, with tight acidity and notes of Bründlmayer 2011 Kammerner Lamm Bründlmayer 2011 Kamptaler Terrassen green plum skin and lemon zest. With its depth of fla- 94 Erste Lage Reserve Grüner Veltliner 88 Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). One of the en- vor and nervy, minerally edge, it will age for at least four (Kamptal). This wine is full and opulent, and its yel- try-level wines from Bründlmayer, this is all about the years. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. low fruit is at the fore. The ripeness is tempered by the fruit. It is fresh and perfumed, with just a touch of pep- abv: 12.5% Price: $32 complex notes of spice and almond as well as the taut, per that adds zestiness. It’s a pleasure to drink now, and steely acidity. Age for at least four years. Cellar Selec- the creamed pear and citrus flavors are already in har- Bründlmayer 2011 Steinmassel Erste tion. —R.V. mony. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. 91 Lage Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). This is abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $NA about as rich as a Riesling gets in Kamptal, and yet its richness hardly shows. What stands out is the pure, crisp Bründlmayer 2011 Käferberg Erste Lage Domäne 2011 Terrassen Grüner fruit as well as the steely acidity. Intense and concen- 93 Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Rich 87 Veltliner Federspiel (Wachau). The lightest trated, this has considerable aging potential. Keep it for and concentrated, this is dominated by superripe fruit. of Wachau wine styles, this has a lilting, waltz-like feel. five years or more. —R.V. The wine derives its weight and full body from the This is ready to drink, with a crisp apple flavor and a abv: 14% Price: $NA clay soil of the Käferberg. The tight texture and acidity pepper touch. Vin Divino. —R.V. shows some restraint, but this selection is about power. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Bründlmayer 2011 Kamptaler Terrassen —R.V. 88 Riesling (Kamptal). Perfumed and fragrant, abv: 14% Price: $NA Michlits 2011 Biokult Grüner Veltliner this is a blend from a number of Kamptal vineyards. It’s 86 Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). There bright, with an aroma of wild flower that mingles with Bründlmayer 2011 Loiser Berg Erste is an attractive lemon tang to this wine, as well as bright flavors of currant, crisp apple and mineral-like acidity. 93 Lage Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Full and acidity and a creamy texture. It has plenty of fruit, and Age this for six months or drink it now. Michael Skurnik rich, this is a beautifully concentrated wine. It’s packed a sense of lightness that would make it a great apéritif. Wines. —R.V. with apricot and citrus, but it also has a serious, mineral Natural Merchants LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $23 -driven side that gives it a taut texture. The acidity is abv: 11.5% Price: $14 intense, and it needs several months to soften and inte- Pratsch 2011 Lange Ried Riesling (Nie- grate. Keep this for 2–3 years or more. —R.V. Pratsch 2011 Grüner Veltliner (Weinvier- 87 derösterreich). A perfumed, fruity wine, abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 85 tel). Classic Grüner Veltliner, this combines a Lange Ried, or “Long Vineyard,” is a textured and light- creamy texture with crisp green fruit. Bright, fruity and ly minerally Riesling, with a concentrated white-fruit Bründlmayer 2011 Vincents Spiegel ready to drink. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. flavor and a crisp finish. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. 93 Erste Lage Reserve Grüner Veltliner abv: 13% Price: $19 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 (Kamptal). Rich and fruity, this has a yellow fruit flavor that’s touched by a hint of pepper. A tasty edge of acidi- ty balances this full-bodied, concentrated wine. Michael RIESLING OTHER WHITE WINES Skurnik Wines. —R.V. Bründlmayer 2011 Zöbinger Heiligen- Bründlmayer 2011 Gelber Muskateller abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 96 stein Erste Lage Alte Reben Reserve 88 (Niederösterreich). Often Bründlmayer will Riesling (Kamptal). Bründlmayer’s flagship wine is make a sweet wine from the Muscat grape. This wine is Bründlmayer 2011 Alte Reben Reserve made from old vines grown on the Heiligenstein hill. It dry, with an intense, perfumed character. This is full and Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). This wine has 92 is as intense as a great Riesling can be, a pure expres- rich, with lychee and quince flavors. —R.V. concentration, but it also demonstrates great elegance sion of steel, mineral and bitter orange and pineapple abv: 14% Price: $NA in its crisp acidity, lemon-zest-like texture and bright flavors. It has great structure and a ripe, concentrated fruitiness. It’s a wine to age for several years, but it can character. This will age long and well. Michael Skurnik Pratsch 2011 Sämling 88 Leicht & also be consumed soon. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Fruchtig Scheurebe (Niederösterreich). abv: 13% Price: $55 87 abv: 13.5% Price: $78 Sämling and Scheurebe are two names for the same grape, a cross between Riesling and Sylvaner. With rich Bründlmayer 2011 Berg Vogelsang Bründlmayer 2011 Zöbinger Heiligen- apricot fruit, this has a Viognier quality, but with crisper Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Ripe and full, 90 stein Erste Lage Lyra Reserve Riesling acidity. It is pure, fruity and fragrant, with just a touch this has layers of refreshing green-fruit, apple and cream 95 (Kamptal). The lyra system of training vines is de- of mineral-like texture on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. flavors, enlivened by fresh acidity. It has a light touch of signed to give the fruit maximum exposure. With that —R.V. orange zest that gives extra vitality to this ready-to-drink and the vines’ placement on the steep Heiligenstein hill, abv: 12.5% Price: $17 wine. —R.V. it’s no surprise that this wine is ripe and rich. Perfumed, abv: 12.5% Price: $NA intense and generous, this will age for many years. Mi- Pratsch 2011 Rotenpüllen Sauvignon chael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Blanc (Niederösterreich). A creamy style Pratsch 2011 Steinberg Grüner Veltliner 86 abv: 13% Price: $71 of Sauvignon Blanc, this has flavors of ripe citrus and (Niederösterreich). This concentrated effort 90 pineapple. It has a bite of acidity that adds lightness and boasts rich, ripe yellow-fruit and citrus flavors as well Bründlmayer 2011 Heiligenstein Erste freshness. Fully of juicy flavors, this is ready to drink as fine acidity. It is packed with fruit, but it also has a Lage Riesling (Kamptal). Rich, with a taut, now. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. firm, steely, nervy texture. It should be aged for 2–3 93 minerally, steely texture, this wine has a fine perfumed abv: 12.5% Price: $20 years, maybe more, for maximum effect. Winesellers character, with notes of white spring flower, intense Ltd. —R.V. quince, pear and white currant. The bright acidity adds abv: 13% Price: $22 lift to this concentrated, age-worthy effort. Michael SPARKLING WINES Skurnik Wines. —R.V. Pratsch 2011 Rotenpüllen Grüner Veltlin- Bründlmayer 2008 Brut (Osterreichisch- abv: 12.5% Price: $37 89 er (Niederösterreich). A pepper- and spice- 90 er Sekt). A ripe, full and balanced sparkling dominated wine, this has a background of citrus and wine, this shows the right amount of maturity, display- green plum flavors. The palate is textured and full. The ing hints of toast and yeast and flavors of apple and lem-

WineMag.com | 67 on. It could age for another few years, but it is ready to drink now. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $44

Bründlmayer NV Brut Rosé (Oster- 88 reichischer Sekt). A dry, lively, raspberry- flavored wine, with a light mousse. Fruity, fresh and streaked with lemon-zest acidity, it has just the right tex- ture and balance. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $44

Bründlmayer NV Extra Brut (Oster- 85 reichischer Sekt). A full, yeasty wine, this has gentle acidity, with a touch of smokiness as well as a note of apple It feels full, without the necessary crisp- ness. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $44

Pratsch NV Frizzante Halbtrocken Rosé 84 (Osterreichischer Sekt). This medium- sweet, fruity wine has just the right amount of sparkle. It’s as bright as a spring day, with a touch of crispness to keep it fresh. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

ROSÉ Pratsch 2011 Rosé (Niederösterreich). 84 Bright, light, fresh and fruity, this is a perfect apéritif. It has red berry fruit and crisp acidity, and it is smoothed with a touch of vanilla. The herbal finish has bite. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

RED WINES Pratsch 2009 Exquisit Zweigelt (Nie- 87 derösterreich). Packed with red fruits and herbal tannins, this is a juicy, fruity wine, with a texture that’s soft and ripe. Acidity gives the wine lift and fresh- ness. Drink now. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22

Pratsch 2009 Erdpress (Niederöster- 85 reich). A blend of St. Laurent and Pinot Noir, this is a full, round wine. It has a soft, juicy texture that comes with a touch of barnyard as well as warm straw- berry fruit. The finish is rich, and the wine is ready to drink. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 SPIRITS ca, CA). This single-variety mezcal, made solely from LIVING LA VIDA MEZCAL! Espadín agave, has a sweet aroma, mingling a note of tropical fruit with a touch of roasted tomato. It shows fruity acidity on the palate, with moderate smokiness f you haven’t tried mezcal, there’s never been months), Cooper has been experimenting with and black pepper flavor that accelerate into the clean a better time. Over the past couple of years, barrel-aged mezcals. His Chichicapa Cask, finish. The alcohol feels brisk but surprisingly balanced this smoky cousin to Tequila (both are made which is aged for 14 years in bottle and then fin- for a product clocking in at 96 proof. I abv: 48% Price: $45 from agave) has seen scores of new bottlings ished in a Stags’ Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvi- making their way to U.S. retail shelves. gnon barrel for 43 days, is known for its deep Mezcal Yuu Baal Madrecuixe (Mexico; Many of the best selections are produced by flavors of raisin, chocolate and agave nectar. 89 MHW, Manhasset, NY). Almost evoking a Del Maguey. Run by feisty founder Ron Coo- Thanks to Del Maguey’s work in champion- forest fire, this intense, intriguing mezcal melds fruit and smoke aromas with a rounded, pine-like flavor and per, Del Maguey was arguably the first company ing mezcal, other newcomers are generating in- a touch of honeyed agave nectar. Serve it with a lick of to bring mezcal to the attention of North Amer- terest. Fidencio is creating lively small-batch salt or a salty, savory appetizer for best effect. ican consumers. Cooper has made a name for mezcals from single agave varieties. Its Pechuga abv: 48% Price: $75 himself working with small producers through- is a traditional expression that includes a raw out Oaxaca, Mexico, by sourcing single-village chicken breast as part of the distillation process. Pierde Almas Dobadaan (Mexico; Alta- 89 mar Brands, Corona Del Mar, CA). Made mezcals, such as the citrusy and savory Arroque- A further sign that mezcal has arrived: Celebri- from the Dobadaan agave variety, this joven mezcal has ño reviewed below. ty bottlings, like Wild Shot Mezcal from country pleasing minty, grassy aromatics and sweet flavors that In addition to the joven/silver mezcals (un- singer Toby Keith. finish with menthol smokiness. It’s bracing and drying aged or aged in stainless steel for less than two —Kara Newman in feel thanks to overproof alcohol levels. Pair this with cured meat or smoked fish. abv: 51.4% Price: $90 Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal Arro- Mezcal Union Uno (Mexico; MHW, 94 queño (Mexico; Del Maguey, Ranchos 92 Manhasset, NY). The ripe, fruity style of this El Buho Mezcal (Mexico; Henry Steele de Taos, NM). Del Maguey has built a stellar repu- mezcal lends itself to making margarita variations and 88 Imports, Brooklyn, NY). Inside the squared tation with their single-village mezcals, and this beauty other cocktails. Look for tropical fruit flavors like lychee bottle, this silky mezcal is warm and lightly fruity, with is a case in point. Sprightly aromas of pine, rosemary and banana, and a mild note of jalapeño on the finish. insistent smokiness and perky mint and rosemary ac- and sage lead into savory, citrusy and even meaty fla- Best Buy. cents on the finish. vors, with a mouthwatering brininess and a smoky finish abv: 40% Price: $35 abv: 43% Price: $34 that’s reminiscent of Islay Scotch. Pair this velvety mez- cal with seafood or aged cheese. Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal Espa- El Diablito Mezcal (Mexico; Creo Com- abv: 49% Price: $90 91 din Especial (Mexico; Del Maguey, Ran- 88 mercium, Phoenix, AZ). This pale-straw- chos de Taos, NM). The remarkable nose is jammed colored joven mezcal is tinged with fresh apple, pear, Los Amantes Mezcal Joven (Mexico; with pineapple and earthy roasted notes, plus a faint vanilla and smoke notes, with refreshing astringency on 94 Palm Bay International, Port Washington, touch of vanilla. This mouthwatering mezcal mixes the palate. The packaging is intriguing: The label shows NY). Among the best of the joven/silver category, this sweet and salty sensations on the palate, along with just dancing devils and skeletons and there’s a drinking ves- refreshing mezcal offers bright anise and pine notes, the right amount of smoke. It would be an intriguing sel attached to the bottle neck. The brand recommends backed by apple and sweet agave flavors and delicate addition to cocktails. drinking this over ice, with grapefruit-flavored soda and smokiness. Brisk but balanced alcohol levels make this abv: 45% Price: $90 lime sprinkled with gusano (worm salt). a top contender for cocktails. abv: 40% Price: $40 abv: 40% Price: $50 Mezcal Zacbé (Mexico; MHW, Manhasset, 91 NY). From the lovely rounded bottle shape to Fidencio Mezcal Madrecuixe (Mexico; Ilegal Mezcal Añejo (Mexico; Frederick the gentle flavors to the spirit’s soft feel, everything 88 Fidencio Mezcal, Manhasset, NY). Made 92 Wildman & Sons, New York, NY). As with about this mezcal is elegant and polished. While most from Madrecuixe, a low-yielding wild agave found at the (previously reviewed) resposado and joven expres- joven mezcals have no color, this one has a barely-there high elevations of southern Oaxaca, this mezcal ex- sions, Ilegal’s añejo is also mellow and elegant, although golden tinge. Look for a warm, fruity, honeyed aroma plodes with herbal and minerally flavors that are set having spent 13 months in American and French oak, and a restrained mix of vanilla and light smoke flavors against a softly smoky backdrop and bracing alcohol. it’s richer. The barrel aging contributes lovely aromas that fade to a minty finish. Because the wild agave is so difficult to obtain, this mez- of honey and vanilla, which are echoed on the palate, abv: 40% Price: $50 cal is available only in limited quantities. along with a surprising flowery note, a suggestion of abv: 45.9% Price: $120 smoke and a spiced finish. Fidencio Mezcal Pechuga 2012 (Mexico; abv: 40% Price: $98 90 Fidencio Mezcal, Manhasset, NY). The Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal San pechuga style of mezcal—which include raw chicken 87 Luis Del Rio Azul (Mexico; Del Maguey, Koch El Mezcal (Mexico: MHW, Manhas- Ranchos de Taos, NM). Recommended for those breast as part of the distillation process—has been rela- set, NY). who love big, smoky flavors in mezcal, this single-village 92 This citrusy artisanal mezcal is made tively hard to find in the U.S. This well-structured new- spirit starts with mellow oregano and herb notes, which from four types of agave: Cirial, Tobasiche, Tobala and comer is a welcome addition, offering bright, almost are quickly engulfed by waves of iodine and smoke. De Lumbre. The aromas tend toward sweet vanilla and berry-like aromas, and warm, moderately smoky and This is a great way to add a smoke note to cocktails. lightly roasted characteristics. A big citrus twang on the faintly savory flavors. abv: 47% Price: $90 palate gives way to a lively note of cayenne pepper on abv: 46.2% Price: $85 the finish. Mezcal Real Minero (Mexico; MHW, abv: 47% Price: $48 Métl Mezcal Blanco Espadin (Mexico; Manhasset, NY). This blend of Espadín, Lar- Jaguar Spirits Importing, Santa Moni- 87 90 go, Barril and Tripón agaves yields a mezcal with round,

WineMag.com | 69 robust flavors of bell pepper and stewed tomato, with fast into a light, mouthwatering saline note. Serve this sprinklings of oregano, rosemary, black pepper and cay- with a lick of salt for more flavor oomph. enne pepper on the piquant finish. abv: 40% Price: $57 abv: 47.1% Price: $106 Mezcal Siete Misterios Mezcal Joven Pierde Almas Tequiliana Weber (Mexico; 84 (Mexico; MHW, Manhasset, NY). This has 87 Black Sea Imports, Brooklyn, NY). Per- pungent and earthy aromas and flavors, with the aggres- haps the most gin-like of all the mezcals, this joven, sive prickle of jalapeño and black pepper on the palate. which is made from blue agave, is bright and perky, with The proof feels high, so consider serving this with fruit pine, juniper and menthol notes, plus a clean finish. juice and lots of ice. abv: 52.5% Price: $75 abv: 48.7% Price: $90

Wild Shot Mezcal Reposado (Mexico; 87 Shaw-Ross International Importers, Mi- ramar, FL). From country singer Toby Keith, the re- posado expression of the Wild Shot line has a soft gold- en color, with a bold, smoky, roasted aroma. It’s not as smoky on the palate as the scent would suggest; instead, flavors run to citrus and vanilla, with a fairly hot, drying finish. Although most quality mezcal producers eschew worms, this brand deliberately flaunts its worm at the bottom of the bottle. abv: 43.4% Price: $46

El Mezcal Jolgorio Pechuga (Mexico; 86 MHW, Manhasset, NY). Another intriguing take on the pechuga style of mezcal, which is usually distilled with a raw chicken breast, this is “twice dis- tilled in copper stills, with fruits, turkeys and roosters creoles of the region.” The end result is mild and pep- pery, with a distinct fruitiness in the background. abv: 48% Price: $102

Fidencio Mezcal Tobala (Mexico; Fiden- 86 cio Mezcal, Manhasset, NY). Tobala, a high- altitude variety of agave, yields a distinct herbal profile. Fidencio’s version is fresh and grassy, with a brisk note of pine and a long anise-tinged finish. Between the rau- cous anise finish and the strong alcohol levels, this bears a passing resemblance to ouzo, the Greek liqueur. abv: 49.4% Price: $120

Wild Shot Mezcal Silver (Mexico; Shaw- 86 Ross International Importers, Miramar, FL). From country singer Toby Keith, the silver version of the Wild Shot line mixes smoky and herbal notes with a smooth, oily feel and a saline edge on the palate, then finishes with just a hint of smoke. abv: 43.4% Price: $46

Banhez Mezcal Tradicional (Mexico; 85 MHW, Manhasset, NY). Brisk, bold and smoky, this mezcal delivers mineral and petrol notes, and a peppery finish. abv: 40% Price: $35

Doña Sarita Mezcal Blanco (Mexico; 85 MHW, Manhasset, NY). The vegetal and fruit aromas are a treat, with bell pepper and oregano notes leading to a juicy pineapple tone. There’s a dis- connect between the nose and palate, which reflects mild herbal and petrol flavors. abv: 40% Price: $35

Espiritu Lauro Mezcal Joven (Mexico; 85 MHW, Manhasset, NY). Look for pungent smoke and mentholated aromas and flavors, which fade

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2013 BEER ber color, with a solid off-white head that leaves behind a nice ring once the head subsides. Brewed with a single A MIXED 6-PACK FOR THE CHANGE OF SEASON special malt from Great Western Malting and hopped with Nugget and Czech Saaz hops, the bouquet starts y the end of winter, many of us are anx- Head, Teo Musso of Baladin and Leo De- off with aromas of stone fruit, lightly toasted biscuit, fresh caramel square and earthy hop. Those aromas ious for a break from the cold weather Vencenzo of Birra del Borgo. It’s a beer that transition seamlessly to the palate alongside additional Band the heavy food and drink that we’ve cannot be easily defined or categorized, and notes of caramel malt, cracker and peppery spice. The been consuming since the holidays. But with each brewery will produce its own batch of the body is medium to full, with a creamy texture and alco- warm sunny days ahead, we start to look for recipe, but ferment it in three different vessels hol-driven warmth on the palate and a slight bitterness transitional brews that will move us from (bronze, wood and terra cotta). on the finish. abv: 9% Price: $4/22 oz winter warmers and stouts to lighter, crisper The lagers are also a bit of a mixed bag, offer- quaffs. If you’re not quite ready for wheat ing more depth and complexity than expected Shiner Bohemian Black Lager (Schwarz- beers and pilsners, but perhaps weary of tradi- from the category. Two selections come from 89 bier; Spoetzl Brewery, TX). The gold win- tional cold-weather selections, these two trios Oregon’s Full Sail Brewing Company: Its sixth ner at the 2012 Great American Beer Festival in the of suggestions—ales and lagers—can help you LTD Lager selection and its 25th anniversary German-style schwarzbier category, this beer is well- balanced and extremely sessionable, and promises great through this intermediate period. Pale Doppelbock, a black bock. Both are great versatility in food pairing. Brewed with Czech Saaz and The ales include three new selections: Two choices for winter and spring drinking. The fi- Styrian hops, notes of roasted grain, lightly charred cof- fall under the sizzling colored-IPA trend (one nal lager is a schwarzbier, or black lager, from fee bean, faint caramel and milk chocolate dance on the black and one brown). The third is a unique Shiner in Texas. nose and mouth alongside accents of assorted red fruit, international-collaboration brew by Birreria Prost! tree bark and licorice root. It’s clean and accessible, with lively carbonation and an easy finish. Brother Brewers Sam Calagione of Dogfish —Lauren Buzzeo abv: 4.9% Price: $7/12 oz 6 pack

biomolecular archaeologist Dr. Patrick McGovern on ALES this brew, taking trips to early Estruscan warrior tombs in the hills and along the coast of Tuscany. Brewed with Smuttynose Durty (American Brown Ale; honey, hazelnut flour, heirloom wheat, myrrh, gentian 92 Smuttynose Brewing Co., NH). Smutty’s root, raisin, and pomegranate, this special release isn’t latest release, labeled as “a hoppy brown ale,” is un­ short on complexity; each sip reveals a new nuance. The officially considered a brown IPA. It combines the rich, bouquet boasts upfront notes of tart red fruit, brown nutty flavors of a brown ale with an IPA-sized dose of banana, honeysuckle and a hint of peppery spice. The hops. The hops are pronounced, with forward aro- ­medium-bodied mouthfeel, though lifted by fine car- mas and flavors of grapefruit rind, citrus oil and pine, bonation, feels rich and slightly viscous, with a sweet fla- although the hoppy intensity is matched with the ro- vor and a boozy warmth flooding the palate, alongside bust malt core, which offers flavors of caramel, toasted notes of mashed stone fruit, lightly toasted wood and bread, light toffee and chocolate. The creamy mouth- sweet spice. Dogfish’s version is fermented in bronze, feel is lifted with medium carbonation, and the finish is while future releases from Baladin and Birra del Borgo long and slightly bittersweet. This is a great short-batch will be fermented in wood and terra cotta, respectively. experiment (only 828 bottles produced) that will hope- abv: 8.5% Price: $15/750 ml fully see another production run in the future. abv: 8.4% Price: $9/22 oz LAGERS Alaskan Black IPA (American Black Ale; 88 Alaskan Brewing Company, AK). Alaskan’s Full Sail LTD Series Limited Edition La- new spring seasonal release is approachable and flavor- 90 ger Recipe No. 06 (Black Bock; Full ful, with a great balance between the robust notes of Sail Brewing Company, OR). The label states that coffee, roasted chocolate malt and soft caramel, and the “there’s no coffee or chocolate in this Limited Edition hop-driven characters of pine, earth and citrus pith. The Lager, but your mouth will insist otherwise,” and it’s carbonation is brisk, adding vibrancy to the roasted malt spot on. This is a full, malty brew, with notes of caramel, core and livening up the resiny hop flavors. The palate light coffee, roasted malt, dried fig and milk chocolate is light yet toasty, and the finish lingers with a note of on the nose and palate. The robust mouthfeel is rich and bittersweet cocoa powder and earthy hop astringency. decadent, almost creamy, but the medium carbonation abv: 6.4% Price: $4/22 oz keeps it from feeling too heavy or sticky sweet. The fin- ish lingers with a nutty hint of toasted bark and whole Dogfish Head Birra Etrusca Bronze (Fruit/ cocoa nib. This is a well-balanced, excellent match for a 88 Herb Ale; Dogfish Head Craft Brewery, grilled steak of any cut. DE). The latest release in Dogfish Head’s Ancient Ales abv: 7% Price: $13/12 oz 6 pack series, Birra Etrusca Bronze provides consumers with a unique beer-drinking experience framed in history. Full Sail 25 Pale Doppelbock (Doppelbock; Dogfish Head’s Sam Calagione teamed up with Birra 89 Full Sail Brewing Company, OR). This 25th- del Borgo’s Leo DeVencenzo, Baladin’s Teo Musso and anniversary selection pours a rich burnt-orange to am-

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