GAUGING THE ‘IT’ GIRLS/6 HARVEY NICHOLS LOOKS ABROAD/18 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • August 2, 2004 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Pensez Pink LYON, France — The season’s lingerie is long on girlish charm, with ruffles, ribbons and, of course, plenty of pink. Here, a lace- and ribbon-trimmed silk, polyester and Lycra spandex bra and skirt from Vannina Vesperini, who will exhibit at the Lyon, Mode City show, Sept. 4 to 6. For more on Lyon, see pages 8 and 9 and 28 to 33.

Wal-Mart Gets Political: CKER/STREETERS PARIS; STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER STYLED BY CKER/STREETERS PARIS; Retailer Seeks More Clout As Campaign Funds Hit $2M

By Joanna Ramey WASHINGTON — Wal-Mart, the world’s biggest retailer, has increased its political contributions to $2.1 million so far this presidential election cycle from $667,805 for the entire 2000 race, Federal Election Commission records show. The company’s 2003-2004 contributions make it the fifth largest donor to federal candidates, with 81 percent of its money going to Republicans, according to the Center for Responsive Politics, a watchdog group. Wal-Mart’s direct contributions to political candidates — a number that See Wal-Mart, Page10 PHOTO BY PATRICK KATZMAN; MODEL: ROSEMARY/METROPOLITAN PARIS; HAIR BY DAVID DELICOURT/STREETERS PARIS; MAKEUP BY ANGELIK IFFENE MAKEUP BY PARIS; DELICOURT/STREETERS DAVID HAIR BY PARIS; MODEL: ROSEMARY/METROPOLITAN KATZMAN; PATRICK PHOTO BY

Hilary Swank in Sensual Supportd underwear 4 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDMONDAY CKI in Accessories Deal Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear By Marc Karimzadeh velopment, sourcing and sales While the Calvin Klein acces- GENERAL for the American, Puerto Rican, sories line is still in the design Wal-Mart has increased its political contributions to $2 million this NEW YORK — Calvin Klein Inc. is Canadian and Mexican markets, stage, it will most likely draw 1 presidential election cycle from $667,805 in 2000, FEC records show. joining the growing number of while CKI is to control design, from Klein’s modern vision, EYE: The “It” Girls: A crop of young actresses may not be famous yet, but sportswear players jumping into branding, public relations, ad- with seasonal leather and can- the better-priced accessories pool. vertising and account approval. vas groups, and contemporary 6 come fall, they will be gracing red carpets and movie screens. CKI, a subsidiary of Phillips- This is the first accessories li- shapes and details that work Designers heading to the Lyon, Mode City trade show are dipping into Van Heusen Corp., has signed a li- cense for the better-priced Calvin with the sportswear. 8 lingerie’s sweetest side, pulling out pretty prints, florals and lots of lace. cense deal with Accessory Klein line. The company already Calvin Klein accessories are Network Group for women’s bet- has accessories under the Calvin expected to launch to the trade ACCESSORIES: Jewelers at the JA New York show presented their fall and ter handbags, small leather goods, Klein Collection designer label during the January accessories 14 holiday collections with a strong outlook following a solid spring. hats and cold weather acces- in a license with Vestimenta. market, with a retail launch Joseph Wan, Harvey Nichols’ group ceo, wants to see branded rtw sories, such as scarves and gloves. The better accessories area planned for fall 2005. The line tar- 18 collections on the runway, stand-alone stores and major ad campaigns. The accessories will comple- has seen some action in recent gets select department and spe- ment the better Calvin Klein months, which will likely shift cialty stores, with wholesale price sportswear, which is licensed to the dynamics on department points ranging from $35 to $75. Classified Advertisements ...... 46-47 GAV and Kellwood Co. and hit store main floors nationwide “The better category contin- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is ues to represent a major oppor- [email protected], using the individual’s name. tunity for growth, and we will The better category continues to continue to evaluate future li- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 “ censing partners to further de- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 188, NO. 22. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional represent a major opportunity for velop and expand the breadth of issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three the Calvin Klein women’s better additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 growth, and we will continue to evaluate brand,” Tom Murry, president West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, and chief operating officer of Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior future licensing partners. CKI, said in a statement. “We are Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- ” carefully and strategically con- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at — Tom Murry, CKI additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration tracting with licensing partners No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. stores in spring, and outerwear, and put a squeeze on more with whom we can work closely POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. licensed to Marvin Richards moderate resources. Michael to bring the Calvin Klein aes- FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is lnc., which is launching at retail Kors’ better-priced accessories thetic to this consumer and to required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new this fall. are hitting department store complement the recent launch subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production As part of the deal, ANG has main floors this month and of women’s better sportswear.” correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild created Calvin Klein Accessories, Tommy Hilfiger’s “H” handbags Abe Chehebar, chairman and magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully a new unit within its recently cre- are expected to roll out fully chief executive officer of screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive ated luxury division that also in- later this year. Executives at Accessory Network Group, added these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED cludes Ghurka. Ken Landis is Ralph Lauren said there are in the statement: “The Calvin MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND heading the upscale division as plans to add accessories to the Klein brand will enable us to ex- TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART president. better-priced Lauren by Ralph pand our market share in the sta- WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ANG will handle product de- Lauren business. tus segment of our business.” ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID.

MONDAY: New York apparel, innerwear and acces- sories market week. WTO Negotiators in Tariff Accord TUESDAY: Accessories Circuit, Intermezzo Collections, Direction and Printsource trade shows, New York By Kristi Ellis WTO negotiations back on track.” (through Thursday). Zoellick said the next step Coach Inc. reports fourth-quarter and full-year WASHINGTON — Trade negotia- will be to “negotiate the speed sales and earnings. tors from 147 countries forged limits for how far and how fast an agreement on a framework we will lower trade barriers,” in WEDNESDAY: Tommy Hilfiger Corp. and Polo Ralph Sunday to move the stalled glob- agriculture, industrial products Lauren Corp. report first-quarter sales and earnings. al trade talks forward, keeping and services. The talks also aim Warnaco Group Inc. reports second-quarter sales alive the goal of further slashing to harmonize complex and costly and earnings. trade barriers around the globe. Customs rules around the world. Among the key deals reached The nations of the WTO THURSDAY: Sara Lee Corp. reports fourth-quarter and by World Trade Organization ne- agreed a decade ago to drop full-year sales and earnings. gotiators were parameters for their quotas on textiles and ap- cuts on tariffs, reductions in the parel on Jan. 1. After the final FRIDAY: American International Designers at the subsidies that rich nations pay quota phaseout, tariffs will re- Waldorf-Astoria, New York (through Aug. 9). to their farmers and special at- main the primary tool to regu- The Labor Department releases the July employ- tention to cotton subsidies. late imports of those products. ment report. Coming off of a marathon U.S. textile mills see tariffs as U.S. Trade Representative Robert Zoellick. five-day negotiating session at their last protection against COMING THISSATURDAY: WEEK Designers at the Essex House, New York the WTO headquarters in competition from cheap im- developing countries. It will be (through Aug. 10). Geneva, trade ministers claimed ports, while importers see them real problem if we don’t negoti- they had finally overcome the as an artificial increase in costs. ate this correctly.” specter of Cancún. The three- Rich nations agreed to signif- Julia Hughes, vice president year global talks collapsed last icantly cut or eliminate tariffs of international trade at the U.S. September in that Mexican city on industrial goods, a trade Association of Importers of when a group of developing that’s worth about $6 trillion Textiles & Apparel, called the In Brief countries squared off against the worldwide. agreement “A big step forward U.S. and European Union, pri- WTO member countries agreed in moving the international ne- marily over agricultural issues. to negotiate a tariff-cutting formu- gotiations and removing barri- ● DONE DEAL: May Department Stores Co. has completed its ac- “Today’s decision is a crucial la that requires bigger cuts on ers to agriculture and industrial quisition of Marshall Field’s from Target Corp. The $3.24 billion step for global trade,” said U.S. higher tariffs. products.” deal was financed with $2.2 billion of long-term debt and $1 bil- Trade Representative Robert The U.S. asserted this formu- Rich nations also agreed to lion in short-term debt and cash, the company said in a state- Zoellick in a statement. “After the la would be beneficial to U.S. cut their subsidies to farmers, ment. May’s acquisition included 62 Marshall Field’s stores, nine detour of Cancún, we have put the manufacturers because foreign which developing countries Mervyn’s locations, inventory, customer receivables and distribu- tariffs on industrial goods aver- claim depress global agricultur- tion centers. With the acquisition completed, May now operates age 40 percent while U.S. tariffs al prices and destroy their 497 department stores under the Filene’s, Lord & Taylor, average 4 percent. livelihood. The framework also Kaufmann’s and Marshall Field’s nameplates, among others. Textile executives were con- calls for a complete elimination cerned about the clause in the of agricultural export subsidies. framework that gives developing Negotiators also achieved a countries longer implementa- breakthrough on cotton, which tion periods and “flexibility” on contributed to the Cancún col- Corrections a certain percentage of their tar- lapse. Under the deal, cotton iff lines. would be included in the overall The sunglasses on page 1 Thursday were by Stella McCartney “The number-one objective of agricultural negotiations but re- from DisRespectacles. The credit was omitted. trade promotion authority was ceive special attention for cuts in ● ● ● reciprocal market openings,” subsidies, which was a compro- Michael Clinton, executive vice president of Hearst Magazines, said Jock Nash, Washington mise to African nations, which is from Pittsburgh, which is also where Teresa Heinz Kerry has a trade counsel for Milliken & Co., claimed they can’t compete home. Clinton’s hometown was incorrect in a Memo Pad item on in a phone interview Sunday. against U.S. and EU subsidized page 11 Friday. “Half of our trade deficit is with cotton on the world market.

6 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM

SOPHIA MYLES, 24 CHANNELING: Kate Winslet CAN BE SEEN: In “Thunderbirds,” as Who’s Got ‘It’? couture-loving crime This crop of young actresses may not be famous yet, but come fall, they will be gracing fighter Lady Penelope. BIG BREAK: “Gosford a red carpet or a movie theater near you. Though their backgrounds and career paths Park” scribe Julian are diverse, they all share one thing: a shot at becoming fashion’s Next Big Thing. (Stay Fellowes spotted her in a school play tuned for the second installment on Tuesday.) By Marcy Medina when she was 16, which led to a role in the BBC’s “The ZOE TAPPER, 22 ZOE SALDANA, 26 Prince and the CHANNELING: CHANNELING: Jada Pinkett Smith Pauper.” Rachel Weisz ISLAND ROOTS: The New York native spent seven HOMEBODY: The UPCOMING: Plays King years of her childhood in the Caribbean with her Brit just bought Charles II’s mistress, Dominican mother. her first apartment Nell Gwynne, in ON POINTE: A classical dancer for 10 years, she in London. “I’d Richard Eyre’s “Stage made her big-screen debut in “Center Stage” rather sit at home Beauty” this October. (2000) and followed it up with roles in with a DVD and a LUCKY BREAK: While “Crossroads” (2002), opposite Britney Spears; bottle of wine than studying drama in “Pirates of the Caribbean” (2003), and “The go clubbing.” London, she answered Terminal” (2004). FASHION?: an ad in the trades with FASHION?: Thanks to her West Village pad, she’s a Devotee of a letter to the casting regular at Marc Jacobs, Cynthia Rowley and Alberta Ferretti, director of “Stage downtown thrift shops, where she prefers to agnès b. and Beauty” stating, “I am bargain for her polyester. “When I overpay for Matthew your Nell Gwynne.” things, it haunts me for three days.” Williamson. “It was a bit ANTI-UGGS: She likes to stand out. “It’s a little Prefers flip- presumptuous. But as ‘Twilight Zone’ when everyone’s wearing the flops to luck would have it, same thing.” high heels. they rang me up and UPCOMING: “The Dinner Party,” a remake of UPCOMING: said, ‘Come and show “Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner,” co-starring “Art School us what you’ve got.’ I Bernie Mac and Ashton Kutcher, whom she deems Confidential,” graduated on a Friday inspiring: “I always go, ‘Oh f---, am I getting paid directed by Terry and started working for this?’” Zwigoff of “Ghost on a Monday.” World” and co- FASHION?: Vintage starring John freak. Loves shopping Zoe Saldana Malkovich and Sophia in Covent Garden. in Tuleh. Anjelica Myles in TUBE TOPS: Often eye® Huston. Stars Matthew noted for her “period opposite James Williamson. drama looks,” she will Franco in big- leap into the present budget next year when she “Tristan & Isolde.” stars in “The Hex,” a teen drama for Rupert Murdoch’s Zoe Tapper in Sky Television. Diesel Jeans. ALANA DE LA GARZA, 28 CHANNELING: Sarah Michelle Gellar BLOOD LINES: She’s equal parts Irish, Mexican and Cherokee. PAULA GARCES, 30 ODD JOBS: Worked as a preschool teacher and an CHANNELING: Cameron Diaz apartment broker in Florida before landing CAN BE SEEN: In “Harold modeling gigs, including commercials for Nivea and Kumar Go to White and Coors Light, which put her through college. Castle,” as the hot neighbor. “It’s still great to get those residual checks.” Claims she was miscast SOAP DISH: Cut her teeth as scheming Rosa “because I’m really a Santos on “All My Children.” “It was the best big goofball.” acting gym I could have gone to.” BIG BREAK: Played a FASHION?: Obsessed with purses, not clothes. tough-talking student UPCOMING: She plays a ski resort employee in Michelle Pfeiffer’s caught between two brothers (Oliver Hudson and “Dangerous Minds” Anson Mount) on the WB’s fall series, “The (1995). Mountain,” and the object of David Boreanaz’s HOT MAMA: Married, affection in the romantic comedy “Mr. Fix-It.” with a 12-year-old daughter. Alana de la FASHION?: Not a Garza in a priority, though she likes Plein Sud to look feminine. “I’m top and just as happy in Miss Sixty. sweatpants.” CURVES AHEAD: Claims she’s not the skin-and- bones type. “I definitely have a little junk in the trunk.” ATTITUDE ADJUSTMENT: “At the end of the day, I’m not curing cancer. I’m an entertainer and the minute it’s not fun, I’m outta there.” UPCOMING: Plays a Mexican girl who falls for an American boy in the Fifties-era indie “Spin,” co-starring Stanley Tucci, and takes on Tommy Lee Jones in the cheerleading Paula comedy Garcés “Cheer Up.” in D&G. PHOTOS BY WIREIMAGE; GARCES BY FILMMAGIC BY WIREIMAGE; GARCES PHOTOS BY

8 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004

TouteLYON, France — Designers are dipping into lingerie’s sweetest Sweetside, pulling out pretty prints, florals and lots of lace.

Huit’s polyamide lace and tulle bra and briefs.

Eminence’s lace-trimmedlace-trimmed cotton and Lycra spandex bra and brief.

Guia’s sequined silk top and bottoms. WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004 9 WWW.WWD.COM Lise Charmel’s Aubade’s embroidered embroidered polyamide and polyamide, Lycra spandex polyester and tulle bra, briefs elastin tulle bra and garter belt. and boy-cut shorts.

Chantal Thomass’ polyamide and elastin bra and briefs. ECKER/STREETERS PARIS; STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER LAURENT STYLED BY ECKER/STREETERS PARIS; PHOTOS BY PATRICK KATZMAN; MODEL: ROSEMARY/METROPOLITAN PARIS; HAIR BY DAVID DELICOURT/STREETERS PARIS; MAKEUP BY ANGELIK IFFEN MAKEUP BY PARIS; DELICOURT/STREETERS DAVID HAIR BY PARIS; MODEL: ROSEMARY/METROPOLITAN KATZMAN; PATRICK PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004 Wal-Mart Flexes Its M

global tariffs for manufactured goods. The mathematical models used by Fellowes in his political contribution study found it difficult to draw a connection between lawmakers and their votes on legis- The Money Game lation that directly benefits individual companies. Fellowes said he found a clearer link between political WASHINGTON — Fashion, retailing and cosmetics executives donations and votes that help groups of companies. are opening their wallets to contribute to the campaigns of Jay Allen, who as Wal-Mart’s senior vice president President Bush and Sen. John Kerry. for corporate affairs steers the company’s public rela- Sears chairman Alan Lacy, Burberry chief executive Rose tions, lobbying strategies and political donations, said Marie Bravo and May Co. chairman and ceo Eugene Kahn are campaign contributions are “a ticket to the dance.” among those who have given the maximum $2,000 to Bush’s A PAC “allows you to establish relationships, to give campaign, according to Federal Election Commission records. you the currency to get in a room and to educate” politi- Ralph Lauren, Levi’s president and chief executive Phil cians about how issues affect Wal-Mart, Allen said. Marineau, Guess co-chairman and co-ceo Paul Marciano and The FEC limits the PAC contributions of individuals Diane von Furstenberg have each donated $2,000 to Kerry, to $5,000 for each primary and general election. PACs, the documents show. The campaign had raised a total of in turn, may give as much as $2,000 to a candidate and $186.6 million through June. $25,000 to political parties. FEC rules prohibit compa- Other executives who have given the maximum to Kerry nies from soliciting PAC donations or preaching politics include Chanel Inc. president and chief operating officer Arie to their rank and file. Kopelman, Revlon president and ceo Jack Stahl, J. Crew However, when it comes to exercising FEC-permitted chairman and ceo Mickey Drexler, Estée Lauder ceo William solicitations of managers and executives, the retailer Lauder, designer Charles Nolan, Boscov’s president Edwin leverages its size and the single-mindedness of its cor- Lakin, L.L. Bean chairman Leon Gorman, Gap chairman porate culture for results. Wal-Mart’s Allen declined to Robert Fisher, Gerard Guez, chairman and ceo of Tarrant say how many managers and executives are in the com- Apparel, and Jeffrey Brotman, chairman of Price-Costco. pany’s workforce. In addition, Donna Karan has given the maximum The company’s PAC fund-raising generally occurs at $25,000 to the Democratic National Committee, as did the manager meetings, during which senior executives de- Gap’s Fisher. tail the political landscape and where Wal-Mart is com- Retailers and apparel importers were among Bush’s sup- ing under fire, Allen said. Such was the case this spring porters, according to FEC records. during the Democratic presidential primaries when the Hal Upbin, chairman and ceo of Kellwood Co., has given campaigns, including that of presidential nominee John the president $2,000 for his campaign, which raised $228.7 Kerry, derided Wal-Mart as a symbol of low wages, inad- million through the end of last month. equate employee health care and a cause of manufac- Other retail and fashion industry executives contributing the turing jobs being transferred to low-wage countries. maximum to Bush’s reelection include Target Corp. ceo Robert Allen disputed these accusations and said they were Ulrich, Limited Brands chairman and ceo Leslie Wexner, fueled by organized labor and its alliances with Federated Department Stores ceo Terry Lundgren, Saks Inc. ceo Democrats angling to take back the White House and R. Brad Martin, Gap chairman emeritus Donald Fisher, Dillard’s Congress. So angry were Wal-Mart executives about the ceo William Dillard, Jockey International president Edward Emma, company taking a beating from Democrats that Allen, in St. John’s ceo Bob Gray and VF Corp. ceo Mackey McDonald. a January meeting of managers, played a videotape of Kevin Burke, president and ceo of the American Apparel Rep. Dick Gephardt of Missouri and former Vermont Vice President Dick Cheney speaks & Footwear Association, also has given $2,000 to Bush. Gov. Howard Dean taking jabs at Wal-Mart. to about 800 Wal-Mart Stores Inc. Wal-Mart ceo Lee Scott contributed $1,000 to Bush, and a The video was used “to make a point; we are being employees at a distribution cadre of top officials at the nation’s largest private employer have used as a political football and that we need to be more center in Bentonville, Ark. also been Bush financial supporters. Wal-Mart’s political action involved, and then we talked about the PAC,” Allen said. committee donated $5,000 to the president’s reelection. Discussions with managers about the need for Wal- Jay Allen, Wal-Mart's senior vice president for corporate Mart to be politically active continue and contributions Continued from page one affairs, is a Bush activist as well, having raised $100,000 are voluntary, as required by the FEC, Allen said. does not include money given to other political action for the president’s reelection, earning the Wal-Mart executive “We solicit virtually the entire Wal-Mart manager committees — came to $1.437 million. the Republican National Committee’s Pioneer fund-raising base,” said Allen, who is a Republican fund-raiser on The National Association of Realtors leads the list in designation. Limited Stores ceo Charles Turlinksi also has his own time and has been awarded the Bush cam- PAC contributions to candidates, giving $2 million di- Pioneer status. paign’s Pioneer designation for raising $100,000 for the rectly to presidential, House and Senate candidates so — Joanna Ramey president’s reelection war chest. far in the 2003-2004 season. It is trailed by the Allen said Wal-Mart supports mainly Republicans be- International Brotherhood of Electrical Workers, which cause the GOP and Wal-Mart share views on issues such has given $1.5 million; the Association of Trial Lawyers, campaigns and parties; Target, $235,286; Sears, $198,221; as tax cuts and free trade as economic engines. $1.5 million, and National Association of Home May, $114,097, Penney, $71,858; Gap, $34,095, and Businesses in general, including retailers, also have a Builders, $1.445 million. Federated Department Stores, $3,000, FEC records show. Republican bent when it comes to corporate political Wal-Mart’s net investment in politics is part of a “Campaigns are so expensive today that it makes contributions. strategy launched six years ago to boost the company’s sense parties have become increasingly reliant on busi- While 81 percent of Wal-Mart donations have gone to influence over how legislation and regulations affect- ness interests,” said Matthew C. Fellowes, a senior re- the GOP, Penney’s PAC favors Republicans 84 percent; ing business are shaped in the nation’s capital and in search analyst at the Brookings Institution think tank and May, 79 percent; Target, 71 percent; Sears, 66 percent, state and local governments. The $2.1 million figure is co-author of a study published last month in Political and Gap, 29 percent. a measure of the growth of Wal-Mart’s contributions Research Quarterly on the connection between corpo- Wal-Mart executives on their own have been long- since the 1998 congressional elections, when the total rate contributions and legislation benefiting businesses. time contributors to Republican candidates. Allen said was $226,294. Fellowes said Wal-Mart was “a great candidate for Now considered a business necessity by the compa- Congressional influence” because of the company’s size ny, Wal-Mart’s political awakening was slow in compari- and its increasing investment in politicians. son with other large companies, political consultants “If you’re looking to influence regulations or taxes said. Wal-Mart executives had preferred to follow the and your business funds a PAC, you are going to gain in- lead of founder Sam Walton, who died in 1992. Walton fluence,” he said. wrote in his autobiography that he had “tried to stay Like its business, Wal-Mart’s interests in politics fairly neutral publicly on controversial political issues.’’ are wide-ranging. The company has pressed lawmak- The retailer, which is being challenged in its efforts ers in Congress not to repeal millions of dollars in tax to expand in urban areas and is facing the largest gen- breaks enjoyed by multinationals like itself. Earlier der discrimination lawsuit in U.S. history, is trying to this year, the retailer joined other companies to defeat shape government policies on issues such as employ- Democratic attempts on Capitol Hill to kill new Bush ment, international trade and zoning, among others. administration rules changing when workers qualify Making political donations is a long-standing prac- for overtime pay. Opponents of the guidelines said the tice, particularly for business and organized labor. Wal- reclassification of managerial duties and salary Mart’s competitors, including J.C. Penney Co., Target thresholds would cause millions of workers to lose the Stores Corp., The Limited Inc., Gap Inc., Sears Roebuck extra pay. & Co. and May Department Stores Co., are longtime con- Almost any legislation or administration plan to tributors. But their involvement, like the size of their lower tariffs and quotas on imports gets Wal-Mart’s at- businesses, pales in comparison with Wal-Mart, which tention. Company banners, shopping carts and products has 1.2 million U.S. and 330,000 foreign employees at have been used as a backdrop by Bush administration

3,580 domestic and 1,490 foreign stores. The chain had officials to tout how low-cost imports benefit con- NEWS/LANDOV; DANIEL ACKER/BLOOMBERG CHENEY PHOTO BY BEBE PHOTO FROM AP $256 billion in global revenue in 2003. sumers. These props were used two years ago when U.S. From left: Arkansas Attorney General Mike Beebe, Gov. Mike So far in this two-year election cycle, which started Trade Representative Robert Zoellick unveiled a U.S. Huckabee, and Wal-Mart Stores vice president Jay Allen talk Jan. 1, 2003, the Limited has donated $120,084 to federal challenge at the World Trade Organization to eliminate in Little Rock, Ark. WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004 11 WWW.WWD.COM Muscle in Washington

the company’s relationship with the president goes deploying lobbyists in the capital, including opening its active, not just in Washington but also at the state, city back to when Bush was an owner of the Texas Rangers own office in 1998. That year, Wal-Mart spent less than and county levels. baseball team and became friendly with Wal-Mart’s $50,000 to begin establishing a lobbying foothold. “We have increased our investment gradually,” said former chairman, David Glass, owner of the Kansas Lobbyists essentially act as political sales staff pro- Allen. City Royals. moting clients’ positions on legislation and regulations He declined to say how much money Wal-Mart is So it didn’t come as a surprise in April when Vice in meetings with lawmakers, their staffs and adminis- spending on lobbying outside of Washington, which in- President Dick Cheney made a campaign stop at a Wal- tration officials. cludes mounting offensives against government and citi- Mart distribution center at its Bentonville, Ark., head- “I call it education, not influence,” said Allen, re- zen campaigns to impede its expansion. quarters, where he gave a speech to about 800 workers. jecting a view that political contributions create a quid Wal-Mart received political advice from former Cheney celebrated Wal-Mart as an “economic power- pro quo between how much money is donated and leg- Senate Majority Leader Trent Lott, the Mississippi house,” while touting Bush’s economic program. He islation or regulations. “We engage with a lot of people Republican who urged the company to open a lobbying criticized Kerry for “trying to re-create himself as an and we think it’s appropriate for elected officials and office. Lott said he made the case about six years ago to entrepreneurial Democrat,” according to a transcript of regulators to understand the real-world impact” of then–Wal-Mart chairman Glass. his comments. their decisions. “I met with chairman Glass and told him there was “Considering what has been said about Wal-Mart in Previously, Wal-Mart relied primarily on lobbyists at no such thing as not having a presence in Washington the last year or so, it was nice to hear...from the vice associations where it is a member and that represent for a huge operation like theirs...where you have people president how respected the company is,” Allen said. retailers, supermarkets and pharmacies, such as the watching what’s going on in the government,” Lott said. Under FEC rules, Wal-Mart would have to give equal Retail Industry Leaders Association, the Food “Innocence could lead to a law that could be devastat- time to Kerry running mate Sen. John Edwards or an- Marketing Institute and the National Association of ing to their company.” other campaign official if the Democrats ask for it. Chain Drug Stores. Other lobbyists wonder what took Wal-Mart so long. Calls for comment from the Kerry campaign on Aside from its association memberships, Wal-Mart “A company the size of Wal-Mart can’t afford not to whether the candidate will seek a Wal-Mart audience last year again increased its investment in lobbying by have friends in Washington,” said Kevin Burke, presi- were not returned. spending $1.7 million, including $1 million to run its dent of the American Apparel & Footwear Association. It might seem a gamble for a company to ally itself own local office of three lobbyists, according to “They have the same right to have political influence as with one party, particularly in the partisan climate in Congressional records. The remaining lobbying expens- anybody else. It’s a free society and they can develop a Washington. But Allen doesn’t seem concerned about es went to law firms employing attorneys and former PAC as large as they wish to elect people who share political relations should Kerry defeat President Bush, Capitol Hill and administration officials as lobbyists. their views.” or if Democrats win control of the House or Senate. By comparison, on nonassociation lobbying last year John Motley, a lobbyist who is a senior vice president “To be fair, we don’t know Sen. Kerry that well and The Limited spent $710,000; Target, $240,000; Sears, for FMI, said Wal-Mart’s political push reflects reality, he doesn’t know us that well, and it’s something we’ll $940,000, and May, less than $30,000. Many retailers, particularly its increasing political contributions. have to work on if he’s elected,” Allen said, noting the such as Gap and Federated Department Stores, largely “People who are idealistic and believe the company has had good relations with Democrats, in- rely on the National Retail Federation for lobbying. system...doesn’t require you to roll up your sleeves and cluding Bill Clinton. As Wal-Mart grew, Allen said it didn’t make sense to help your friends are putting their heads in the sand,” Wal-Mart’s growing donations have been accompa- stay removed from politics, as Sam Walton preferred. Motley said. “You need to support your friends and you nied by the retailer taking a more aggressive stance in Allen said he urged company officials to become more need to try and retire your enemies.”

and Lesbian Leadership Counsel, a subcommittee of the Democratic National Committee. Nolan was one of the few Seventh Avenue designers to attend the convention. He’s also among the only ones to be part of the fund-raising revolution that polit- The Buzz Around Boston ical experts say is catapulting the gay and lesbian com- munity into a major force in the Democratic Party. Democrats “by and large don’t even have adequate Nolan got into Democratic politics in part through lists” on who their supporters are, he added. his 11-year life partner, Andrew Tobias, who is finance Nancee May, president of the 800-member New director of the DNC. Nolan quit fashion late last year Jersey Federation of Democratic Women, said she to work on former Vermont Gov. Howard Dean’s cam- wants Kerry to push his personal qualities. She re- paign, but returned to Seventh Avenue with his own members connecting with the candidate while watch- line and store this spring. ing footage from a New Hampshire campaign stop on “Fashion is about image,” Nolan said. “People I C-SPAN. know are afraid to take political stands because they “They showed him going into a guitar shop and ask- are afraid to turn off their customers.” ing to play,” May said. “I thought, ‘Oh, right — chop- Organizer of the cruise and fund-raiser extraordi- sticks or something on guitar,’ but he played beautiful- naire Mary Louise Oates, wife of key Kerry aide ly. I remember thinking it showed he’s human, real, ap- Robert Shrum, said, “In 1992, the gay community proachable.” raised $3 million for Bill Clinton. This year’s finance May thinks the Kerry women chairman, Lou Sussman, could not be more supportive, can be a powerful force in the and so far, the gay and lesbian community has raised campaign. “His daughters do a Election $7 million.” great job of selling him,” she Jeff Soref, on the board of Lincoln Center, concedes said. 2004 that, when it comes to fund-raising in the gay commu- nity, the fashion industry has stayed on the sidelines. John Kerry and John Edwards revel in the moment. LATE-NIGHT V.P.: When it comes to partying on, vice “To the extent the garment industry contributes po- presidential candidate John Edwards carried the flag litically, it prefers to give its money to their own people NEXT FOR KERRY: Even before Sen. John Kerry had after the Democratic National Convention ended and causes like DIFA and 7th on Sale for fighting finished his acceptance speech, convention attendees Thursday night. Edwards, accompanied by his wife, AIDS,” Soref said. “They tend to focus on causes and escaping the heat of a capacity crowd at the Fleet Elizabeth, and daughter, Cate, turned up at Roxie’s not be overtly political.” Center had this advice for the candidate: Focus on nightclub in Faneuil Hall for the AOL Time Warner — Katherine Bowers and Susan Watters middle America’s paychecks. “Rock the Vote” party, where they stayed until almost Linda Patterson, a staffer with Washington-based, 2 a.m. nonprofit National Democratic Institute, said she For the Kerry-Heinz clan, it was a chance to cozy up Andrew Tobias thinks Kerry’s statements about good jobs being re- in the kitchen after a night bouncing from the stage at placed by low-wage ones and his previous campaign the Fleet Center to the stage at the Boston Pops con- and Charles Nolan references to Wal-Mart in that context, will resonate in cert at the UMass Boston campus with singer James the heartland. Taylor. As for fans gathered across the Charles River at “I think the average American is more concerned the Museum of Science, word came early that the with their health care and their pension plan than see- promised visit by Kerry and singer Jon Bon Jovi had ing if they can buy bread 10 cents cheaper at Wal-Mart been scrubbed. than Safeway,” she said. “He’s not going to go out and party with the people,” Boston political consultant Paul Simmons said groused one former Clinton aide who remembered Kerry and the Democrats have to counter the New York City 1992 when the Clintons stayed up late Republican machine. shaking hands and thanking their supporters after ac- “They have probably the best field operations in cepting the nomination. American history,” Simmons said. “Some people vote Republican simply because that is the only party GAY POLITICS: “You’re Charles Nolan. I love your contacting them. You get the best type of political stuff at Saks,” said Cheryl Jacques, president of the bounce when you have people organizing their Human Rights Campaign at a party Tuesday night at

neighbors.” Robert and Elaine Sager’s home, celebrating the Gay CENTENO TALAYA PHOTOS BY 12 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Accessories ReportX Gucci’s Giannini Blossoms

By Luisa Zargani Princess Grace in MILAN — In her first solo effort as creative director of Milan, 1964. accessories at Gucci in the post-Tom Ford era, Frida Giannini has taken inspiration from the house’s histo- ry and added a contemporary twist. Judging by retailers’ feedback, it’s a winning touch. Wholesale unit sales of accessories within the cruise 2005 collection grew by more than 20 percent from last year, said a Gucci spokeswoman, who attributed the increase largely to Giannini’s collection, called Flora. The line of handbags, small leather goods, shoes, swimsuits and towels is part of Gucci’s cruise collec- tion slated to bow in stores worldwide in November. Giannini was inspired by an iconic silk scarf by the same name designed in 1966 for Grace Kelly. The Princess of Monaco put in a request for a colorful and exuberant design and Rodolfo Gucci, son of founder Guccio Gucci, asked Italian artist Vittorio Accornero to assist. Accornero created the Flora pattern in 37 col- ors, with a selection of flowers from each season. The design was originally conceived as a single painting, so the allover print does not repeat, which is more eco- nomical and easier to manufacture. The Flora collection revisits Gucci’s iconic bags: the hobo, the Jackie and the bamboo. The bags come in small, medium or large sizes in cotton canvas, some with embroidery. For an evening Frida Giannini look, there is a clutch bag in silk satin with a closure made with Swarovski crystals. Retail prices range from $695 to $3,450. There are also two silk satin sandals in the line: an open-toe style with Gucci’s signa- ture bit decoration and a platform with wraparound ribbons on the ankles. Giannini said she felt “really lucky” to be able to remake Gucci classics. “It has an exceptional evocative strength but at the same time it is very modern,” she said, adding this is not an exact replica of the past, but a contem- porary interpretation. The spokeswoman said the “worldwide reaction to the Flora collection has been extremely positive, and in particular in the U.S. and Europe. [Buyers] have loved the idea of having a pattern that belongs to the Gucci tradition, reinterpreted in a fresh and young way.” In the U.S. and Europe, wholesale sales of cruise handbags have grown by 70 percent com- pared with 2004. The The Flora bags footwear division grew 25 draw from Princess percent in the U.S. and 40 Grace’s original

percent in Europe. Gucci scarf, above. GIANNINI PHOTO ROBERTO BY CECATO HANDBAGS

From the Ashford Collection stonemountainhandbags.com 14 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Accessories

Alberian and Aulde

Jewelers See Sparkling Future By Emily Holt pleased me is the good feeling overall about the category.” NEW YORK — Jewelers have the glimmer of fourth-quarter optimism in their eyes. Marco Valente, owner and design- Fine jewelry vendors at the JA New York show, which wrapped up its four-day run er of Valente Milano, which opened at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center here on Wednesday, brought their fall and hol- its first retail location in Milan’s iday collections with a strong outlook for the second half of the year after a solid spring. Park Hyatt hotel last month, said, Vendors and retailers anticipate substantial holiday growth and strong consumer “This year is totally better than last interest in higher-priced items. Key trends include open-work bubble shapes, color, year. Last year we had the big crisis cabochon moonstones, tiger’s eye stones and hoop earrings. in Iraq,” and while the war still Paul Morelli introduced his pebble collection, which features a cascading pendant rages “the mood is different, there necklace in 18-karat yellow gold, pink sapphires and diamonds. are lots of parts of the world Anthony Nak “Since we’ve been at this show, we’ve seen that people are still being cautious, but where the economy is growing.” we’re encouraged [by the orders they are placing],” Morelli said. “Our business at Peter Webster, partner in Bergdorf Goodman has seen spring growth of 35 to 40 percent, and we’re projecting a Roberto Coin, said the strength of 50 percent increase for fall and holiday.” the euro has helped the U.S. fine Retailers said accessories is in a good cycle. jewelry market. “We had a very good spring season and there’s no “It seems the weakness of reason to think it won’t continue for fall,” said the dollar is holding back Barbara Serafina, jewelry buyer for the Saks tourism, so more people are Fifth Avenue store in Short Hills, N.J. “Overall staying at home,” Webster business is up and fine jewelry is up.” said. “Since they’re not Color and wide bracelets “with delicate going abroad, they can looks” were among the trends she was afford luxury goods.” focused on, and she was not shying away Nonetheless, the firm from high-ticket items. was forced to raise its “No one is looking and shopping on a prices in response to the soft budget,” Serafina said, “We’re especially dollar, but “judging from our optimistic about holiday.” orders, it hasn’t affected Saturated colors like cinnamon-hued cit- sales,” Webster said. rines, garnets and amethysts played strongly in He predicted the fourth Paul Morelli David Yurman’s collection, which was shown in quarter will bring a 20 to 25 the designer’s showroom in TriBeCa. Yurman also percent increase in sales. The saw buyers spending more freely. company’s new flat cobra collec- “We focused on trading up in our gold collection, and tion proved a high point. retailers responded incredibly to that,” he said. “Of “The colors are really exciting course, it was well focused on specific doors. It wasn’t a blan- everybody,” he said. “The price ket thing.” point is slightly higher, but people seem to be Temple St. Clair Buyers are also exploring less conservative looks, said Paul spending more at that level.” Engler, chief operating officer of Temple St. Clair, at the JA Retailers agreed with this premise. show. Retailers were drawn to the collection’s black opal and “People are interested in true quality,” said Bill blue moonstone pieces, he said. Farmer Jr. of Farmer’s Jewelry in Lexington, Ky. “A lot of the more traditional, conservative stores are want- “Now, the emphasis is on quality information, quality jewelry and quality service. Price ing to enrich the collection with stuff that has more style,” point is less the objective. It’s about satisfaction. It’s been a quiet summer, but we’re Engler said. “They’re wanting to move in that direction of fash- very optimistic about the fourth quarter. People are getting back into the rhythm of fall, ion without deviating from the quality things they’re known for getting back into thinking they need to get things done.” carrying.” Serpent themes were a trend in a number of collections, including Mia Koniver’s Slane & Slane unveiled the latest incarnation of its Mia & Ko. line, which includes a snake and heart pendant in pavé diamonds and Fenestra collection of pendants, rings and earrings with mar- pronged diamond settings. quis-cut stones in olive quartz, London blue and white topaz. “I did it in pavé expecting people to like the design, but want it at a lower price Marion Davidson, president and chief operating officer, had an point,” Koniver said. “But the more expensive items are what’s selling most.” equally sunny outlook on fall business. Mary Aulde, co-owner of Alberian and Aulde, said, “One pair of sapphire earrings “Retailers are buying deep and very invested in gold, so we have cost half as much in tourmaline, but people want the sapphire. People are price doesn’t seem to be an issue,” Davidson said. “What’s Continued on page 16 Give the gift that travels...

261 Fifth Avenue • 20th Floor • New York, NY 10016 • 800-322-8864 16 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004 Accessories Fine Jewelry Shines on the Web Jewelers’ Future Sparkles NEW YORK — With baubles just a click away, fine jewelry’s achieved their success because of strong brand names, online potential was the topic of discussion at the “Facing established customers, substantial capital investment, the Internet — Meet Players/Hone Your Game” panel at the broad distribution capabilities and the ability for cross- Couture Club at JA. channel marketing. Online luxury purchases totaled $2 billion in 2003, Two firms that are not in the top five — though Hurley according to Forrester Research, and watch and jewelry sales described them as the “800-pound gorillas in the mist” constituted about half of that, Bear Stearns & Co. estimated. — are eBay and Amazon.com, which launched its fine This accounts for only 2 percent of total fine jewelry jewelry site in April. Based on analyst’s research, online sales, which stand at $54 billion, but online jewelry and jewelry retailers target mid-market customers. accessories and other luxury goods spending is The channel’s growth is being driven by customers’ experiencing a 30 percent growth rate. The online luxury increased awareness of value of the product, better sector is expected to grow to $6 billion by 2008. availability of high-speed Internet access, competitive pricing James Hurley, a luxury goods analyst for Bear Stearns, and increased comfort with payment security, Hurley said. addressed fine jewelry’s opportunities in e-commerce. He Amazon.com’s success with categories like books and noted that the top five online retailers for jewelry sales — music has allowed it to develop those factors to support Roberto Coin Blue Nile Inc., QVC, Tiffany & Co., Wal-Mart and Odimo — fine jewelry sales. — E.H. Awards, a Birthday and Other Celebrations NEW YORK — Beyond healthy business prospects, the ● Terri Eagle, chief operating officer, David Yurman jewelry crowd had much reason to celebrate here last week. (Sales & Marketing Award). Continued from page 14 From 400 people toasting Roberto Coin at a surprise party ● Carmen Borgonovo, jewelry editor of W magazine going for quality and beauty over price.” at the Rainbow Room for his 60th birthday to the Women’s and editor of W Jewelry (Editorial/Reporting Award). They’re also going for color, she noted, and said pearl and gold Jewelry Association’s 21st Annual Awards for Excellence at ● Charlotte Preston, president, Charlotte Preston pieces with thin layers of enamel, tiered necklaces, colored pearl Pier 60 and the Italian Jewelry Guild’s Global ReEvolution Catalysts (Special Services & Education Award). pieces, particularly in pink and green, were strong sellers. show and Italian Jewelry Awards at Gotham Hall, jewelry The IJG, meanwhile, held its fourth biannual Italian “Fortunately, price has not been an issue because the product executives showed no signs of weariness from all-day selling Jewelry Awards given to individuals for excellence in is so unique,” said Anna Maria Castracane, sales manager for the and partied into the wee hours throughout the week. journalism, sales and marketing. Those winners were: Italian brand Vhernier. The WJA gave out its annual accolades, which went to: ● Jill Newman, freelance writer for the Robb Report Anthony Camargo of Anthony Nak brought a collection of ● Mary Forté, president and chief executive officer of (Consumer Magazine Editor Award). leather necklaces with pendants and small wire earrings to be Zale Corp. (Hall of Fame Lifetime Achievement Award). ● Carrie Soucy, editor in chief of Luxury International woven into existing orders and fill retailers’ floors while the prod- ● Cathy Carmendy (Design Award). and senior fashion editor of JCK and Trendz magazines uct is still shifting season. ● Joy Toback-Galicki, co-owner and vice president of (Trade Magazine Editor Award). “This was about bringing pieces that are more attainable for manufacturing, Myron Toback, Inc. (Manufacturer, Dealer, ● Lauren Kulchinsky, co-vice president of Mayfair every day,” Camargo said. “But that’s not where we’re going as a Supplier for Fine Jewelry and Watches Award). Jewelers (Independent Jeweler Retail Award). brand, it’s just about diversification. It doesn’t always have to be ● Sissy Jones, chief executive officer, Sissy’s Log ● Ed Bridge, president and co-chief executive officer about couture and dress up. I mean, you could wear these with a Cabin (Retail Award). of Ben Bridge Jewelers (Jewelry Chain Store Award). T-shirt to the flea market.” WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004 17 WWW.WWD.COM Soft Belts Mean Hard Business

By Holly Haber and classic-print sashes are leading the business now. They wholesale for $20 to $26 and can be worn alone or DALLAS — The soft fabric and scarf belts threaded through a leather waist wrap that boosted the belt business this that wholesales for $38. spring show no signs of dying for fall “The belts are easy to or next spring. buy because they don’t “It’s a retailer’s dream,” said come in sizes, so anyone John Mendes, who has sold can wear them,” said more than 2,000 soft belts this Dana Frank, co-owner of year through Plaza Too, his the firm, which is based

six-unit accessories and shoe in New York and El Paso, GEORGE HENSON PHOTOS BY chain based in Rye, N.Y. “I Tex. “Now everybody Loop de Loops’ reversible belts in silk brocade and polyamide also work on the floor and seems to be doing it.” velvet, in taupe, red and green. I’ve said it a thousand The trend has legs, said times: ‘They’re so great Cynthia O’Connor, owner of the Most of Accessory Design’s soft belts are private label with jeans.’ It’s a great way namesake multiline showroom, which styles for mass merchants, and Novie expects them to be to get color in your represents Hadley Pollet and Frank & Kahn. a top seller again next spring. An important new style is a wardrobe without spend- “It’s just like when the pashmina thin, pliable suede belt with a matching rose in soft ing a lot of money.” came along and jump-started shades of pink, lavender, blue and Hadley Pollet, one of Frank & Kahn’s silk belt threaded scarves,” she said. sage green. Other new looks in- Plaza Too’s top resources, through a white leather belt holder. Lynn Roberts, vice presi- clude solid and printed re- has seen her sales triple dent of Echo Design versible nylon ribbon fabric, this spring and summer compared with her last fiscal Group in New York, which washed cotton web, reversible year, which ended in January with $1 million in sales. makes a variety of sash belts print belts with an enamel mili- Pollet’s signature style is a reversible cotton intarsia and waist wraps, also sees tary buckle and stretch striped cot- belt with a zinnia pattern offered in a variety of colors strength in the trend. ton belts with leather tabs. and wholesale priced at $45. “People are very interested For Lizanne Shaver, designer The belt did well this spring at Bergdorf Goodman and there are so many new and owner of Loop de Loops belts and in the Garnet Hill catalogue. Valerie Adler, senior fabrics and treatments, like in Charlotte, N.C., the soft belt busi- buyer of handbags and belts at Bergdorf ’s, believes soft satin sashes with braided finish- ness has been doubling and tripling belts will tie into the embellished Moroccan looks es, fringed satin sashes, knits, prints every month since January. emerging for spring. and solids,” Roberts said. “It’s in- “I’m constantly mixing it up with “It makes sense to have sashes and beaded fabrics creasingly becoming a bigger part Hadley Pollet’s reversible cotton belts. different color combinations and try- with that whole Moroccan element,” Adler said. of our business.” ing to buy up limited fabrics,” said the Printed silk-scarf belts by Frank & Kahn also are “It is the key fashion part of the belt business,” said former drapery designer. “I produce what I can, maybe having a great year, with sales projected to reach $1 mil- Mary Novie, belt merchandiser for Accessory Design 400 belts out of one fabric, and then I move on. You can lion. The firm launched two years ago with headbands Group, a Dallas-based division of Tandy Brands. “It also have it fun and funky on one side and then solid velvet wrapped in with vintage Vera silk scarves, but its Mod- has been a great color vehicle.” on the other.” 18 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004

Accessories Harvey Nichols: Next Luxury Brand? By Samantha Conti owned by Dickson Concepts and will have 60,000 square As reported, the prospectus on Barneys will soon be feet of gross floor space. Wan said he hopes to use that released publicly and the asking price could be as high LONDON — For Joseph Wan, Harvey Nichols isn’t just a store as a springboard into mainland China, specifically as $500 million. In the past, Dickson Concepts, through specialty store; it’s a luxury goods brand waiting to happen. Shanghai and Beijing. its Dickson North America unit, has been cited as a con- Wan, the group chief executive of the U.K. fashion The Dubai store is Harvey Nichols’ first licensed unit, tender for Barneys — and Wan certainly isn’t ruling out and luxury retailer, wants to see Harvey Nichols brand- and will be located inside the Mall of the Emirates and an acquisition this time around. ed ready-to-wear collections on the world’s runways, will have about 120,000 square feet of gross floor space. “Barneys is always an interesting target for the stand-alone stores in places like Bond Street here and The store’s license partner is the Al Tayer Group. group. If we see the right opportunity — and the right major ad campaigns à la Gucci or Louis Vuitton. Harvey Nichols will provide the name, the fashion and price — we’ll look at it again. But that’s up to the own- “Why can’t we compete with brands like Gucci?” luxury brands, the retail know-how and assistance, ers, and what they think the value is. Of course we’d asked Wan during an interview last week. He was sitting while the partner will put up all the money for the store. take another look.” at a boardroom table at Harvey Nichols’ Knightsbridge In return, Harvey Nichols will get a percentage of Wan said international rollout of Harvey Nichols offices, just a few yards away from the fashion empori- turnover that will range from 4 to 8 percent, depending stores is a natural progression for the retailer. “Our um that became a household name thanks to the two on the annual minimum guaranteed royalty the two house is in order. We’ve achieved optimum return on fashion fiends in the TV show “Absolutely Fabulous.” partners negotiate. Wan said the store plans to use that what we’re doing in the U.K.,” he said, although he did “If you offer good products at the right price, have same business model when it expands into other emerg- not provide any specific sales or profit figures for the the correct marketing campaign and a brand name ing markets. privately held company. Wan said in the fiscal year that’s not spoiled or diluted, then why not? “We feel licensing is the safest route for us overseas. ended March 2004, turnover rose 16 percent and profits “The long-term plan is to extend the preserve of We make no investment, yet we have full control over the rose 11 percent. Harvey Nichols into two successful businesses: We want store,” said Wan, adding that he was currently in discus- For the year ended March 2002 — the last year that to be a retailer of luxury brands and a brand name in Harvey Nichols reported figures — profit before taxes our own right. And there is unlimited potential,” said was $18.7 million, compared with $23.4 million the year Wan, 50, a Hong Kong native who joined Harvey Nichols before, on revenues of $210.6 million, compared with as chief executive in 1992. $205.5 million the prior year. Wan, a former accountant with KPMG in Hong Kong, The new stores’ focus, he said, will be on the local cus- said the plan is to sell Harvey Nichols-branded women’s tomer, much as it is in London. Wan said the wear, men’s wear, accessories, fragrances and food in Knightsbridge store’s customer base is 87 percent local. Harvey Nichols stores. “And there’s nothing stopping us Of the remaining 13 percent of customers, 40 percent from doing activewear, children’s wear and home col- comes from North America, 30 percent are from the lections. We have unlimited potential.” Middle East and 30 percent are from the rest of the world. Clearly, there are a lot of hurdles to overcome before Wan added that if the store expansion proceeds as Harvey Nichols lands on Madison Avenue, Via planned, he’ll be able to build enough doors to sustain Montenapoleone or the Rue de Rivoli, and Wan’s is an a Harvey Nichols-branded business. Currently, the eight- to 10-year plan. In the medium term, the idea is to store sources its private label collection in Italy, France build up the number of Harvey Nichols doors both in and England. the U.K. and in emerging markets such as India, China, Wan believes Harvey Nichols is ideally positioned to Turkey, South America and the Middle East. Wan said transform itself into a luxury brand, and he is undaunt- he’d like to see a total of 13 to 15 units worldwide. ed by the myriad luxury goods companies fighting for Once that’s done, Harvey Nichols would be big market share today. enough to build up a branded clothing and accessories “What goes up must come down, and strong luxury business. When that business is off the ground, Wan brands come and go. Some even disappear. The future plans to transform Harvey Nichols into a luxury brand, is not about a few brands having a monopoly on the lux- and open franchised boutiques on major shopping ury market. The future will belong to brands that give streets around the world. their consumers what they want,” he said. Harvey Nichols is owned by the Hong Kong-based “It’s a challenging, long-term strategy — and a sound Dickson Concepts. It was pulled off the London Stock one. I can see the logic in it,” said George Wallace, chief Exchange in 2002 by majority shareholder Dickson executive of Management Horizons Europe, a retail Poon, who thought a public listing no longer made sense consultancy. “Harvey Nichols is still very much a store because of the small market capitalization and relative Joseph Wan — not a brand — but its association with luxury brands stock liquidity. will help it get into that market. True, the luxury goods Harvey Nichols sells top designer brands in women’s business is a tough, shark-infested place, but you have and men’s wear, beauty, home furnishings, food and its sions with potential partners in other international cities. to aim high, don’t you?” own Harvey Nichols apparel brand through its London The size of each store will depend on the location and Maureen Hinton, senior retail analyst at Verdict flagship, and its stores in Birmingham, Manchester, the market, he said, although every store will have a sim- Research, another London-based retail consultancy, Leeds and Edinburgh. It plans to open stores elsewhere ilar look and feel. Wan is upbeat about the prospects of called Wan’s plan an “unusual” strategy. “It’s a new way in the U.K. and Ireland in cities including Dublin, expansion in emerging markets — chiefly because the of doing things, true. The challenge is to build up the Bristol and Newcastle. Harvey Nichols also owns the costs and overhead are so much less than in the U.K. Harvey Nichols brand profile. Currently the Harvey London restaurants Oxo Tower and Prism. “A sales assistant in London costs the store 12,000 Nichols brand is very low-profile — and not what peo- Depending on planning permission, Wan said he’d pounds ($21,960) a year. A sales assistant in Riyadh costs ple go to the store for.” like to open two more stores in the U.K. and Ireland 2,400 pounds ($4,392) a year. If we in the U.K. can gener- Wan also believes there’s more than enough dispos- over the next three years, with Dublin likely the first. ate profits that are 10 percent of turnover, then abroad able income out there to drive his businesses, and he Wan’s plan is to fund the U.K. rollout privately and for- they can certainly post profits that are 20 percent of dismisses the rise of competition from stores such as eign expansion via local partners. turnover,” he said. “That’s why we’re focusing on emerg- Topshop, H&M and Zara. Outside the U.K., Harvey Nichols has one store in ing markets. There’s no reason why Harvey Nichols “The whole world is getting richer: China and India Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, with a gross floor space of just needs to open in New York or Paris. How could our alone are going to be major economic powers. The evi- under 100,000 square feet. Two others are under con- partners pay those kinds of royalties?” dence also shows there is a greater and greater demand struction in Hong Kong and Dubai, United Arab Speaking of New York, Wan also weighed in on for luxury, and I cannot believe that future generations

Emirates, which are due to open in September 2005. Barneys, which Whippoorwill Associates and Bay will have less disposable income than we do now,” he TIM JENKINS PHOTO BY The Hong Kong store, at The Landmark, is wholly Harbour Management put up for sale earlier this month. says.

Real Customers. Real Jewelry.

Available in 24KT gold over sterling and tarnish free sterling silver. Empire State Building, Suite 6712, 401•941•7700, www.danecraft.com WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004 19 WWW.WWD.COM will be shown during the January fine jewelry market. Included in the selection will be a new Kwiat signature FINDINGS piece meant to capture the essence of the brand. NUMBER 10: Two accessories Kwiat is also throwing its hat into the celebrity businesses are celebrating a arena, with its first red-carpet collection of one-of-a- milestone during this kind items specifically for people attending awards Fiat Gears Up With Bags week’s accessories market. ceremonies and movie premieres. The Sak, which is The Sak’s Pink MILAN — When two high-profile types join forces, the outcome turning 10 this week, was Label Autograph FRENCH SUN: The latest fashion brand to head to the is always interesting. founded by chief bag. beach is French Connection, which has signed a So, when Lapo Elkann, marketing manager for the Fiat executive officer Mark licensing agreement with New York-based Starlight brand and the stylish nephew of the late Gianni Agnelli, met Talucci and president Accessories for a sunglass line to debut for spring. Giulia Ligresti, the daughter of a renowned Italian entrepre- Todd Elliot. The label The colorful collection will wholesale from $20 to neur, the creativity started to flow. started with handwoven $40 and will be introduced to buyers at WWDMAGIC Together they masterminded Gilli Fiat Cube, a cube-shaped handbags but soon and the International Vision Expo West in Las Vegas in handbag and travel bag with the vintage Fiat logo splattered created a signature look September. around the four sides. All the Gilli Fiat cube bags and small with its tight-weave leather goods are crafted in a limited edition of 500 pieces in material for bags. The HAT APPOINTMENT: Helen Kaminski has hired Charlotte honor of the historical Fiat 500 car from the Sixties. Sak has evolved into a full handbag collection Dyslin as senior vice president of sales and marketing, “When I met Lapo, we discovered that we were both deter- featuring 30 percent each of crochet, leather and a new post. Dyslin will oversee the company’s North mined to support the Italian product by involving a larger and nylon and 10 percent mixed fabrics, selling for $39 to American growth and report to Don Rongione, younger crowd,” said Ligresti, who is set on ultrahigh quality $79 at retail. The Sak is celebrating the anniversary president and chief executive officer of Bollman Hat and domestic production. with a party on Wednesday in its Fifth Avenue Co., which distributes the hat collection in the U.S. The Gilli brand, launched in 1998, is owned by the $50 billion showroom in Manhattan, where it will also debut its and Canada. In addition, sales manager Laura Tarbox Ligresti group, one of Italy’s largest conglomerates, and has a new Pink Label collection. An extension of the Sak has been promoted to vice president of specialty sales. freestanding store in Milan. Ligresti is the chairman of the line, Pink Label will retail from $59 to $109, with group’s holding company and of Gilli. distribution focused on better specialty stores. BUYING POWER: Smithfield, R.I.-based sunglass maker Elkann, meanwhile, is the brains behind Fiat’s expansion in Meanwhile, the multiline showroom Notanonymous AAi.FosterGrant reached a deal to purchase reading product placement and brand awareness, is also marking its 10th anniversary. Founded by glasses maker Magnivision Inc. from American Greetings an area he first tackled with the Maxine Coppersmith with a focus on jewelry, the firm Corp. The value of the all-cash transaction was not launch of Fiat’s successful sweat- has expanded to include handbags, belts and other disclosed, but it is expected to be finalized by the end of shirts, also featuring the auto accessories. Notanonymous represents 21 lines, this year’s third quarter. The acquisition will give maker’s 1930s logo, last fall. including Rachel Weissman watches and belts, Citrus FosterGrant the opportunity to further strengthen its “We chose to put our strengths handbags, Streets Ahead belts and Mystique shoes. reading glasses business. together to try to respond to the “I wanted to create a homey atmosphere and a John Ranelli, AAi.FosterGrant’s chairman, president concept of an Italian product. smaller type of environment for individual designers,” and chief executive officer, said in a statement: “By This is what we represent,” said said Coppersmith. “It’s all about being comfortable, so maintaining our focus on quality and service, we will A Gilli Fiat Elkann. “We have to create a I thought this could be a place for designers to feel at have excellent opportunities to grow both businesses by Cube link between cars and fashion home in New York rather than just being represented.” expanding in current channels and entering new handbag. design and art.” markets.” The bags are crafted by NEW DESIGNER AT KWIAT: Janice Bell has been named Ron Peer, Magnivision’s president, added that it will local artisans using natural- design director of fine jewelry house Kwiat, filling a “facilitate growth opportunities through cross-selling and ly dyed hides and are avail- position left vacant a year ago when Robin Garin left international expansion.” able in a blue on white ver- the firm. Bell’s background includes senior jewelry Last January, FosterGrant acquired sunglass maker sion and one in white on designer at Tiffany & Co. and designer at Harry Gargoyles Inc.’s brand portfolio for an undisclosed sum. blue. Prices range from Winston. That deal included the Gargoyles, Anarchy, Angel, G-Force, $442 for the small size to Her first collection for the almost 100-year-old firm GXP and Idol-Eyez brands. $518 for the large model and $90 for key chains. At pres- ent, the bags are carried in 90 Italian specialty stores, with plans to roll out inter- nationally in September. — Alessandra Ilari t e i m c e a

f Toll Free 888.578.3344 29 West 30th Street, New York, NY 10001 20 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004

Accessories Moo Roo Makes Its Move on Manhattan

By Marc Karimzadeh NEW YORK — When Mary Norton cooked up the plan for Moo Roo’s Manhattan showroom, she knew she wanted the place to ooze with a Southern aura. After all, Norton is from Charleston, S.C., and she often likes to incorporate her provenance’s charm into the handbags, jewelry and scarves she designs. The resulting showroom, which opens its doors at 12 West 57th Street this market, is as sweet as banana pudding. “Our sales and client base developed to a point where it was time to have our own showroom, and we felt it was time to have a presence in New Sharon Thora Portia York, where we can bring in our own unique iden- Stone Hilary Duff Burch de Rossi tity with a Southern flair,” Norton said. Mary Norton Charleston-based interior designer Paula MOO ROO ON THE RED CARPET Adams, who worked on Norton’s Charleston home, created the 700-square-foot space. It features painted pink walls and gilded gold mirrors, as well as a large crystal chandelier that belonged to Mickey Rooney. tal oval-shaped minaudière, at $385 wholesale. “It’s like a little tiny jewel box with this funky, rococo flair,” Norton said. “The Moo Roo sells to 210 stores around the world, including Bergdorf Goodman, Saks showroom will be the foundation of the look of Moo Roo.” FifthAvenue and Stanley Korshak in the U.S., Seibu in Tokyo and Harvey Nichols in The company has temporarily closed its Charleston boutique to refurbish it to London. Norton said she wants to open a boutique and showroom in Beverly Hills mimic the new showroom. and a store in Bal Harbour, Fla. Norton started Moo Roo in 1998 primarily as an evening resource, but has since Norton declined to give sales information. expanded into costume jewelry, shawls and scarves. “Next year, we are hoping to go after European and Asian markets,’’ she said. “The “We are luxury with laughter, a brand with a sense of humor,” said Norton, who goal is that, by next year, we will have opened two additional retail doors, and we was previously represented by the Cynthia O’Connor & Co. showroom. “It’s not seri- hope, with the showroom presence both here and in Beverly Hills, to double our num- ous and definitely for women who want to bring out their personalities.” ber of doors.” Moo Roo is introducing its new holiday and resort offerings, which are rich in tex- A Beverly Hills location would be convenient for the red-carpet types who have ture and feature many jeweled pieces, cut panne velvets and metallics. The mix in- embraced Moo Roo, from Sharon Stone and Halle Berry to Paris Hilton, Uma cludes the leather and metallic brocade “Sophia” bag with a big leather bow, priced Thurman and Catherine Zeta-Jones. at $385 wholesale; the small satin “Baby Fou Fou” bag with hanging, multicolored, “Our trademark look is whimsical luxury, Hollywood glamour and Southern long ostrich feathers, at $205 wholesale, and the “L’Opera” metallic leather and crys- charm,” Norton said. “It’s for the movie star in all of us.”

Left: Moo Roo’s “Baby Fou Fou” bag. Above: The “L’Opera” bag. Right: The new showroom opens this market week. SHOWROOM PHOTOS BY JOHN SHARON STONE: HILARY DUFF, BURCH, MICKSHAW/WIREIMAGE AQUINO; THORA DE ROSSI: RAY GREGG DEGUIRE/WIREIMAGE, PORTIA

A Division of Orion Fashions 20 West 36th Street New York, NY 10018 212.563.5420 Fax 212.594.8473 www.koolkonnections.com WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004 21 WWW.WWD.COM A Threesome Joins Gotham Gaggle NEW YORK — There’s no better time to unveil a new accessories showroom than during market week, when scores of buyers descend upon Manhattan to check out the latest bags, belts, sunglasses, hats and scarves. Here, a look at three additions to the mix.

Dolce & Gabbana sunglasses at Marcolin. BIGGER AND BETTER Y&S Handbag Group is trading up. The company is unveiling two additions during this week’s accessories market — an expanded showroom and a revamped bag line. “We are doing business with major department stores both as a private label developer and as a brand,” said Susan Zelinka, national sales manager for Y&S’ Vanessa brand. “What we’ve learned in observing what’s going on in retail is that the way we’ll be able MARCOLIN’S MOMENT to maximize our business is to build onto it Marcolin finally has a place to call its New York home. Tonight, rather than go out and look for new retailers.” the Longarone, Italy-based eyewear manufacturer is celebrating So the firm decided to relaunch its the opening of its showroom at 232 Madison Avenue. At the Vanessa collection for the better market and new digs, buyers will find the entire assortment of sunglasses also take over the other half of the floor it and optical frames that Marcolin makes available in the U.S., occupies at 320 Fifth Avenue. including such licensed designer lines as Dolce & Gabbana, Already an evening collection, Vanessa will D&G, Roberto Cavalli and Kenneth Cole. be brought into daytime and feature European Y&S’ Vanessa Showroom “We are building more market share through the department leathers, woven and embossed, as well as store channel,” said Maurizio Marcolin, who oversees the style embroideries and straw bags with trim. The line will be designed in Brazil and will wholesale from $40 to $150. and licensing operations of his family’s company. “We came to “Everything was rebuilt from the inside out, including the logo,” said Ellen Griffin, vice president of production and the conclusion that it was mandatory to have a presence in New operations. “We wanted to execute it from bottom to top, we didn’t want to just give it a fresh coat of paint.” York to welcome the buyers and to show the collections.” Zelinka also noted the firm is planning a marketing effort to establish Vanessa’s new sophisticated image, though she was The selection at the 3,000-square-foot space will showcase vague on details. The better sector is one where the firm sees “a tremendous opportunity for growth,” Griffin added. Marcolin’s three divisions, which were recently restructured: To support Vanessa’s new look, the showroom has mahogany and white wood fixtures and leather furniture. The look is Fashion Luxury (Dolce & Gabbana, D&G and Roberto Cavalli), modern, but not too sleek. The firm was careful to exclude all chrome because “it’s too cold,” Griffin explained. Leisure and Trend (Cover Girl, Timberland and Marcolin) and Y&S’ three other handbag brands, Magid, Tianni and Prezzo, will also be housed in their own spaces decorated to mimic the Sport (North Face). particular brand’s identity. Marcolin was founded in 1961, when Giovanni Marcolin — Emily Holt Coffen started making gold frames in an artisan workshop. In 1967, the company opened its first factory in Vallesella, Italy, and the company opened a U.S. division in 1982. Today, the firm produces frames in four factories in Vallesella di Cadore and Longarone, Italy, and Morez and Frasne, France. GOLD GOES POSTAL While the company’s U.S. headquarters remain in Scottsdale, Dusty stamp art of decades past serves as a suitable backdrop to Ariz., from which product gets shipped to stores, the New York the accessories in the new Elaine Gold Enterprises showroom. showroom will serve as a place for buyers to write orders and for Located at 390 Fifth Avenue, Gold, an industry veteran, is press to see new collections. It will be operated by Alan Chinich, presenting her newest venture there. Wooed by the breadth of senior vice president of sales, fashion and luxury and retail archived American stamp prints, Gold’s new accessory line, in a divisions, and Michelle Tiganila, director of retail sales. licensing agreement with the Postal Service, uses iconic stamp “We have lots to show and it made sense to invest even imagery as motifs for handbags, watches, belts, scarves, jewelry, more and penetrate the marketplace more,” said Marcolin. footwear and a flurry of other classifications. Marcolin’s preliminary sales for the six months ended June “Another product line isn’t going to work unless you do 30 rose about 13 percent to 97.6 million euros, or $117.9 something different and make a statement,” said Gold. “The Elaine Gold is launching a line of million, as sales recuperated in the U.S. and grew at double- magnificence of the [USPS] stamp visuals and accessories featuring Postal Service digit paces in Europe. In full-year 2003, Marcolin’s sales lost 6 their historical relevance appealed to my love images. percent on the strong euro-dollar exchange rate to come in at of print, color and principle; we’re not just 157.3 million euros, or $190 million. Losses at the company’s selling accessories, we’re selling a concept.” U.S. branch forced Marcolin to post a net loss for full-year Gold has collaborated with Anne Klein, Ellen Tracy, Jones New York and Lulu Guinness through 2003 of 4.2 million euros, or $5 million. her former company, Collection X11X LTD, which she left in July 2003. While Marcolin conceded that 2003 was a challenge, he The new concept, displayed in a mahogany-dressed showroom, takes form in an expansive said the outlook is bright for the U.S. market. collection including T-shirts, ties, boxer shorts, umbrellas and small leather goods. Gold’s line is “The idea is to continue the growth and make this market expected to hit department stores this fall, with items retailing from $15 to $75. First-year sales more important than it is already because the potential is still projections are in excess of $15 million. not fully expressed by the brands that we have,” he said. “The “My family thinks I’m selling stamps in a post office,” Gold said with a cackle. “I’ve been a vocal showroom is another example of our focusing on the market.” figure in the accessory business for a long time, it’s got to be something very special to catch my — Marc Karimzadeh, with contributions from attention; this line is it.” Amanda Kaiser, Milan — Genevieve Leon PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY

F ASHION QUALITY ™ WATCHES

Licensing opportunities available • 7 West Accessories, Inc. • 392 Fifth Avenue, Suite 711 • New York, NY 10018 • 212-695-4002 • Email [email protected] • www.vernierwatches.com 22 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Legwear Report

NEW YORK — Be it lush stripes, a preppy argyle or racy fishnets, pretty pastel shades cast a bright light on spring.

K. Bell’s cotton and Lycra argyle knee socks. M-A-G by Magashoni sweater; Danskin briefs.

Above: Nine West’s Gina cotton socks.socks; Hot Sox’s Group’s cotton and Lycra socks. nylon fishnets.

LLeegale’sgale’s cotton and Lycra anklets. ON ASSISTANT: LINDSAY SEGAL; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY SEGAL; STYLED BY LINDSAY ON ASSISTANT: Docker’s cotton socks.

Ozone’s cotton, polyamide and elasthane striped knee socks. M-A-G by Magashoni sweater; American Apparel briefs. One Step Ahead One TRICOMI; FASHI DEANNA/WARREN MAKEUP BY LOFT; ANDRE RODMAN/ARTISTS HAIR BY FONFECA/NEXT; ERICKSEN; MODEL: VANESSA KYLE PHOTOS BY

24 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004

Legwear Report Legwear Firms Offer Spring Solutions

By Marc Karimzadeh and Emily Holt Dress by Calvin Klein at American NEW YORK — It’s a legwear challenge manufacturers Nicole know all too well: Every spring, as temperatures rise, Miller. Essentials. out come the sandals, open-toed shoes and flip-flops to Beaded adorn women nationwide — and legwear business in re- foot straps tail departments comes to a screeching halt. by Hue. But legwear makers aren’t conceding defeat. After years of sales declines during the spring and summer, vendors are starting to see opportunities in offering items that are often called “spring solutions.” From colorful toe covers and foot tubes to sling-back socks and fishnet liners, vendors are coming up with easy and whimsical products intended to fight off warm weather sales doldrums. The items serve as fun pick- me-up purchases, and are also functional, combating sweaty feet, blisters and other footwear maladies asso- ciated with heat and humidity. “Part of it is about function and comfort, part of it is about fashion, color, patterns and fabric,” said Molly Mott, vice president of sales for Kayser-Roth. “It’s a necessary ingredient in your assortment and something that we are going to watch,” said Susan Spindell, national sales manager at Hot Sox, which offers mary jane-like liners with a strap across the instep and sling-back socks for next spring. “We are trying to entice the customer back into socks for spring and summer.” Wayne Ledermann, president at Leg Resource said, “The business has become very important for the sum- mer months. Fashion socks die off, and sport socks and these foot accessories sell. Particularly, the more orna- mental variations have really taken off.” During this week’s spring legwear market, Royce Hosiery Mills, which makes licensed socks for Nine West and Dockers, is launching the Nine West Out of Sight col- lection, featuring a low-cut thin cotton slingback sock, a liner, a tube and a toe cap. Each item comes with sili-

cone nonskid applications on the sole to prevent the ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004 25 WWW.WWD.COM

liner from moving around in the shoe. little more polished, while still showing Leg “The shoes that women are wearing off their pedicures and summer shoes,” Resource now are very low-cut on the side, have said John Flynn, vice president of sales peekaboo toes, very thin straps and they at Levante USA, where the spring season show more of the foot,” said Pat was boosted by as much as 35 percent McNellis, Royce’s president of women’s last year because of such styles. Every Toe brands. “We are finding that the legwear Though it may seem counter-intuitive, Covered solutions really need to be engineered vendors insist that the liners are meant differently for dressier shoes.” to show. Toe covers and foot tubes also make “There’s something decorative about up the selection at Every Toe Covered. that,” said Mott at Kayser Roth,“like showing The microfiber styles come in ice-cream a lacy pink camisole under your suit blazer.” colors like light green, light blue and She said solution items account for bright yellow, and are available with or about 30 percent of spring and summer without nonskid soles. President Robert sales, making them a necessary item to Sussman sees great potential in this area. supplement the loss of hosiery sales. “Last year was very good,” he said. Wearing shoes without socks in the “This particular area of the business hot weather can wreak havoc on a pedi- keeps growing over time.” cure. So, Mott said, “You can either Fashion, meanwhile, is a key element choose Band-Aids or you have something of the offerings at Gina Hosiery. Celestial fashionable that serves a function.” prints, stripes, bright colors and florals are popular motifs, said the firm’s vice president, Raymond Dayan. “We’ve made an inexpensive way to cover the foot a lot more exciting with striping, quirky mo- tifs and nonskid soles,” he said. “We take into account the colors and trends of the season, for ex- ample fruit prints in bright tropi- cal colors. Last spring was good because of all the color on the floor; legwear became an inex- pensive way to dress up an outfit.” He added that consumers typically don’t want to invest in fine fabric socks during the sum- mer and are more willing to pick up a small colorful item at an af- fordable price. “Liners, which were the orig- inal no-shows, are consistently one of our best-selling prod- ucts,” said Jordan Lipson, presi- dent and chief executive officer of American Essentials, which makes the licensed Calvin Klein sock collection. “Toe bands have also been very successful, and we do them with the CK logo and a nonskid bottom.” For spring, American Essen- tials is introducing a dressier nylon toe cap and foot bands with different variations of the Calvin Klein CK logo. It also of- fers the slingback sock. In addi- tion, the company is offering foot tubes that can double as wristbands or hair scrunchies that match socks and wristbands. “In unit volume, I would say that in the second quarter it now represents 20 percent of our spring business and is growing,” Lipson said. Hanes offers several summer solutions within its Hanes Stepz label, including foot covers, foot bands for people wearing slides and toe covers for mules or slingbacks. The mix is available in a variety of colors, from a rose print to an ivy, and some come in a tulle fabric or a crochet. Stepz’ foot bands are available in a net, a floral sheer or a traditional trouser sock fabric. “At Sara Lee, we are always looking at what we can give to the women, what is she looking for and how can we make her lifestyle easier,” said Barbara Johnson, director of product public relations for Sara Lee Intimates and Hosiery. “The predominant trend of the past few years has been open-toed shoes, so we looked at the shoe industry.” While bare legs seem to be fa- vored by many women, some still feel they need to cover up for special occasions, and these summer items work into this, as well. “This allows them to feel a 26 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Legwear/Accessories Pucci and Wolford Team Up By Marc Karimzadeh seamless, sleeveless bodysuit feature Wolford’s Satin de Luxe material, which consists of nylon with a shiny satin finish. NEW YORK — Emilio Pucci’s vivid prints can transform a blank can- “This material is perfect for the colorful Pucci prints,” said vas into a magical, psychedelic place one can spend hours mulling. Holger Dahmen, Wolford’s chairman and ceo. “The brilliance and Now, the iconic label is ready to jazz up the hosiery sector, too. the touch of the body and tights is fantastic.” Pucci struck a deal with Wolford for a limited-edition hosiery Wolford has a history of designer collaborations, making tights and bodywear collection that will bow in Pucci and Wolford bou- for Lagerfeld Gallery since last year and for Vivienne Westwood Pucci tights tiques and select specialty stores this fall. since 2002. Wolford also has a license agreement with Giorgio Armani. by Wolford. Laudomia Pucci, Emilio’s daughter and image director for the Dahmen declined to give sales projections, but the line is lim- label, said tights are a natural move for a label so identified for ited in edition. For fall, Wolford will manufacture 4,000 tights and its vivid prints. 2,000 body suits. U.S. retail prices for the Pucci collection are “Legwear somehow embodies the Pucci style — it’s close to the $165 for a pair of tights, and $350 for the bodysuit. body, it’s sexy and it’s feminine,” she said. “We produced tights in The collaboration is expected to continue at least through the Seventies and had success with leggings in the Nineties. We spring and summer. liked the idea of continuity, of moving this product category into “I think that legwear is a nice way to express wearing Pucci in the future in a modern way and with an industry leader.” winter, because you can liven up solids with colorful printed legs,” There is a floral and a geometric print, and the tights and Pucci added.

“I wanted to give the consumer incredible value and attention to detail — a sort of affordable luxury,” she explained. A Clean Approach for Van Zeeland Van Zeeland’s fall 2004 collection is divided into groupings, with names such as Shooting Stars and Uptown. Silhouettes, including hobos, totes, satchels, buckets and NEW YORK — Kathy Van Zeeland’s handbag business is barely out of the gate, but she’s flap purses. Fall materials include nylon, croc or python-patterned polyurethane, smooth got confidence to burn. A Kathy Italian leather and faux fur, in colors such as black, fawn, pistachio, plum and fuchsia. Van Zeeland has nearly 20 years of experience in the handbag business, much of Van Zeeland One style Van Zeeland predicted will be a big winner is the $74 Nicole satchel, that spent at Nine West as a vice president of development for handbags across all the bag. which is designed in glossy black croc and embellished with buckled utility pockets and company’s lines, not to mention buying stints at Bonwit Teller and Saks Fifth Avenue, silver loops dangling from leather tabs. There are also lush faux fur or natty tweed with a stop in between in private label at Ann Taylor. satchels with croc trim and stud details, retailing for $65 to $69. “From the vast number of handbags I’ve designed over the years, I’d have Van Zeeland also offers $89 tote-style diaper bags with waterproof pockets to say I truly know what the American woman wants from her bag,” said Van for bottles and the like, and small leather goods retailing from $32 to $44. Zeeland. The line is aimed at department stores, with Robinsons May, What she’s delivering in response, in the form of her self-named, year- Burdine’s and Macy’s East making up the majority of its accounts. She’s old line, are bags with clean silhouettes and bold hardware. tackling a tough market, for sure, but as Van Zeeland put it, “They “It’s fashion that’s modern, yet understandable — and salable,” she said. know I know how to drive a business and be an incredible partner to A key component of that salability is pricing, with all bags retailing for them. They have confidence in me.” less than $100. — Kristen Carr AN ZEELAND PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT AN ZEELAND PHOTO BY V

1679 Overview Drive, Rock Hill, SC 29730 Tel: 803-909-5869 http://www.hyosung.com WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004 27 WWW.WWD.COM Saks to Consolidate Cosmetics Operations BIRMINGHAM, Ala. — Saks Inc. said it there are 13 cosmetics employees work- thought it might be cool to do a Christopher Brosius in will centralize the cosmetics buying for ing for Proffitt’s and McRae’s, and gallery/design space exploring what per- his new Brooklyn space. its 240-unit department store group, to Birmingham, where there are 15 working his new Brooklyn space. fume is and what it can be.” The 250- save money through job cuts and to de- for Parisian. The functions will be con- square-foot ground-floor gallery show- velop stronger relationships with ven- solidated into the Saks department store cases 14 fragrance series created by dors and more differentiated products. group’s Birmingham headquarters by the Brosius, from a series called Dirt, which In its announcement Friday, the com- end of September. includes fragrances like Mushroom, pany said expense savings and one-time Mark Fedyk, senior vice president and White Truffle and Vetiver to the Un- charges from the centralization are not general merchandise manager for cos- naturals, which includes fragrances like expected to be material. metics and shoes at Proffitt’s/McRae’s, Coppertone and Rubber. Inspirational “We’re eliminating about 20 positions, has been promoted to senior vice presi- quotes from notables like E.B. White, from a total of 46,” said dent and general mer- Groucho Marx and Shakespeare hang George Jones, presi- chandise manager for above each collection. dent and chief execu- BEAUTY BEAT cosmetics for the group. Along with offering custom-blended tive officer of the Saks He will be based in perfumes for individual clients, Brosius department store group, in an interview. Birmingham and will report to Jones. will help customers choose a wardrobe of “We are quite optimistic we are going to Asked if other product divisions besides scents best suited to their preferences be able to place most of these people, but cosmetics also could be consolidated, Jones from the Perfume Gallery. Prices range cost savings are not the primary reason in replied, “No. We don’t have any plans for from $25 for a 15-ml. CB Single Note my mind for the consolidation. The pri- any other consolidations right now.” Custom Scent to up to $350 for a CB mary reason is that we believe this is the Saks Inc. also operates 62 Saks Fifth Custom Perfume, or a so-called Level Two right way to run the business. The [re- Avenue stores and 54 Saks Off 5th outlets. initial consultation. Custom perfumes can maining] jobs will be more significant. We — David Moin run up to $5,000 for an extremely complex

will leverage the talent, and we will talk STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY blend, according to Brosius. Brosius said with one voice to our vendors. We think it he will be working with perfume ab- strengthens our partnerships. Cosmetics Brosius Branches Out has wasted little time expanding his hori- solutes and oils only, in lieu of alcohol. is an extremely important business.” NEW YORK — There’s perhaps more zons. Brosius has already unveiled his In addition to the new Studio and Jones also said that the consolidation change than fragrance in the air at newest venture: the Christopher Brosius Perfume Gallery, Brosius has created a will provide the department stores with Demeter these days. Studio and Perfume Gallery in the trendy collection of finished perfumes inspired “the appropriate structure to accelerate Founder Christopher Brosius has Williamsburg section of Brooklyn. by art, history, dance, literature and poet- our sales growth.” ceased his duties as vice president and Located in a former garage — now a ry. The first is called Metamorphosis and Currently, the cosmetics buying hap- creative director for the brand, but will stark, white space with lacquered ce- is inspired by Persephone from Greek pens at three locations: Milwaukee, continue to do fragrance and product de- ment flooring and exposed beams — on mythology. The perfumer is also working where there are 18 people on staff work- velopment. “There are a lot of things I Wythe Avenue, the space provides an out- on a range of fragrances for dogs and a ing for the Carson Pirie Scott, Boston want to say with perfume and do with per- let for Brosius’ vision and a retail venue. book that is illustrated by scent, which is Store, Bergner’s, Younkers and fume that don’t fit into that package any “There are so many great galleries and tentatively slated for release in fall 2005. Herberger’s chains; Alcoa, Tenn., where longer,” said Brosius. And the perfumer shops around here,” said Brosius. “I — Bryn Kenny

83 million euros, or $99.6 million at current exchange, in sales last year. — Jennifer Barton Fashion Scoops EUROPE WATCH GIRL TALK: Although celebrating its DARE TO WEAR: Has photographing all that flesh for 25th birthday this year, Escada is Abercrombie & Fitch given Bruce Weber a new thinking young — way young — appreciation for, ahem, clothing? Sources in Europe KIND OF BLUE: House of Jazz, the London-based fashion label known and launching a girls’ line, for said Weber has designed a men’s collection, including for its signature bold prints and celebrity clients including Claudia newborns all the way up to 16- swim trunks and cowboy shirts, and labeled it “Weber Schiffer, Kate Moss and Drew Barrymore, is closing its doors. year-olds. The debut collection is Built.” The casual line is expected to be available The four-year-old company’s founders, designers Hazel slated to arrive in Escada exclusively at the forthcoming Dover Street Market in Robinson and Pablo Flack, said in a statement Wednesday they boutiques this month. The line London, a Comme des Garçons emporium featuring Rei would not show at London Fashion Week in September. Their last includes velvet jogging suits, jeans Kawakubo’s various lines amid concessions by everyone ready-to-wear collection, for this fall, will sell at Selfridges, in an Ibiza hippie vein, fake fur from Lanvin and Raf Simons to Azzedine Alaïa. Browns and Matches in London. jackets and short skirts. In line “It’s the right time for us to do new things, and I think it’s best with Escada’s total-look mantra, HORN OF PLENTY: Before exiting Paris on Friday night to finish something when it’s doing well,” Flack said in a accessories range from scarves, to attend Charlotte Casiraghi’s 18th birthday party in telephone interview. “It definitely feels like it’s time to put the bonnets and legwear to bags, Monaco over the weekend, Karl Lagerfeld had time to House of Jazz project in a box on top of the wardrobe and to think bracelets and sunglasses. Prices whip up a Chanel couture dress for Princess Caroline of back on what a fantastic time we’ve had.” range from 49 euros, or $59, for Hanover’s daughter – and crank out yet another fashion Flack already is working on a new venture — a restaurant and cotton T-shirts to 270 euros, or collaboration. This time, he’s teamed up with shoe bar called Bistrotheque, in east London. Before founding House $324, for a fake leather coat. guru Walter Steiger for a range of footwear reminiscent of Jazz, he founded London’s 333 nightclub. Flack and Robinson — Chantal Goupil of a rhino’s horn. The pointy, multistrapped styles, met at another bar he was managing in 1995. Robinson will Escada’s new look for girls. under the Lagerfeld Gallery label, are slated for remain focused on fashion. “Pablo and I have worked on this STITCHING A DEAL: Marzotto said January delivery. brand intensively for the last four years, and both feel the need last week it renewed its contract to produce the M Missoni for a change,” she said in the statement. “I have enjoyed the diffusion line, which it has done since 1998. The length of the PROFESSOR RUCCI: Ralph Rucci recently found himself fashion roller coaster immensely, and will still pursue my career in licensing pact and other details weren’t disclosed, but Marzotto around a kitchen table in the Virginia suburbs chatting this arena.” and Missoni have scheduled a press lunch in Milan Sept. 2 to with fledgling designers — new graduates from Flack said the label was not having financial difficulties. outline plans for the line. M Missoni is the fashion house’s last Marymount University, a small Catholic school with big “British fashion is never going to be a huge money-earner, but I license. Missoni outsourced production of its top line to Marzotto fashion aspirations. think we were actually one of the few independent British labels between 1986 and 1997, before bringing production in-house. “Do you think men will ever wear skirts?” asked to post a profit last year.” — Amanda Kaiser Rucci, critiquing a student’s portfolio of bridal gowns, He would not give sales or profit figures. including one for the groom. “You put a skirt on him House of Jazz first showed off-schedule during London MAGIC GWAND: The Swiss fashion festival Gwand last week named like [Jean Paul] Gaultier. Poetic.” Fashion Week in February 2001, and since then has been one of nominees for the coveted Swiss Textiles Award 2004, a prize Rucci was keeping a promise. This spring, flu the highlights of this city’s fashion season. worth 100,000 euros, or $120,000. They are Eley Kishimoto, sidelined his plans to accept Marymount's Designer of “I think it’s a great shame that such a vibrant label will be Sophia Kokosalaki, Laurent Mercier, Cosmic Wonder, Haider the Year Award, previous recipients of which have missing from the London schedule this season,” said Katie Ackermann, Lutz and Preen. All nominees will display their latest included Oscar de la Renta, Rose Marie Bravo and Mark Grand, editor in chief of Pop magazine, who worked as a stylist looks in a fashion show during the 11th annual event, scheduled Badgley and James Mischka. Rucci rescheduled for with House of Jazz when it began. for Nov. 25-28 in Lucerne. A panel of top retailers and editors lunch late last month at a school benefactor’s home, Since 2001, the House of Jazz shows have been funded by from Europe and the U.S. selects the winner. — J.B. where he delighted in the young designers’ creativity, sponsors including Fashion East — a showcase for young like the junior prom dress with a collar stretching into a designers — Topshop and Eye2Eye. The duo currently designs a A HARRODS HIT: It’s been a record-breaking summer for Harrods. glove, a collection inspired by chocolate and separates signature range for Topshop. — Ellen Burney Its four-week summer sale generated $122.7 million – a four made from recycled fabric. percent increase on last year, and the most successful sale in the Rucci also offered tips: Cut organza on the bias to CHECK MATE: Tati, one of France’s oldest discount chains, is store’s 155-year history. During the period from June 28 to July achieve a blouson effect and avoid bodice-crossing girding for a takeover. Its chairman and chief executive, Fabien 24, the company said sales of luxury and fashion goods were princess seams. “They always look commercial,” said Ouaki, announced last week his plans to sell the 55-year-old particularly high with the beauty, children’s wear, toy and food Rucci, while warning how “most buyers can only digest family-owned firm, which has been in the French equivalent of departments posting double-digit growth. “Harrods' ongoing one design concept in one garment. That’s why I say, Chapter 11 since September 2003. Two takeover offers are being commitment to broaden its product ranges and further improve the ‘Simplify, simplify.’” considered, one from Lyon-based textile-importer Asiatex, and the shopping environment has contributed to these excellent results,” Rucci, who dressed his sister as a child growing up other from discount clothing chain Fabio Lucci, a subsidiary of said the store’s chairman, Mohamed Al Fayed in a statement last in Philadelphia, got his start in New York 25 years ago the Eram group. The companies have until Tuesday to refine their week. Harrods chief executive officer Richard Simonin added the at Halston. After that he was fired from a series of jobs. proposals before they are presented to Paris’ Tribune de store has increased sales by 9.1 percent since Feb. 1, and is “I thought I could do it differently and I couldn’t. If Commerce. Tati, famed for its pink-and-white check, racked up gaining "significant" market share in London. — E.B. you’re hired to do a specific job, you do it,” he said. 28 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Lyon Preview

Jets’ polyamide and elastin maillot with ceramic-treated peacockpeacock feathers. feather. LYON, France — The more the merrier? You bet. At the upcoming Lyon Mode City show, designers will be getting into the details — piles of beads and prints — of swimwear.

More, Please

More, Please ▼ Jenna de Rosnay’s polyamide and elastin bikini. OR STREETERS PARIS; STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER LAURENT STYLED BY OR STREETERS PARIS;

TC Swimwear’s Emamo’s beaded polyamide and polyamide and elastin bikini. elastin bikini. PHOTOS BY PATRICK KATZMAN; MODEL: ROSEMARY/METROPOLITAN PARIS; HAIR BY DAVID DELICOURT AND MAKEUP BY ANGELIK IFFENECKER, BOTH F ANGELIK IFFENECKER, AND MAKEUP BY DELICOURT DAVID HAIR BY PARIS; MODEL: ROSEMARY/METROPOLITAN KATZMAN; PATRICK PHOTOS BY © ESPRIT PUBLIC - GETTY IMAGES FASH FOR PA LYON “L i of prospective dimension andcreatesthetrends Lyon its hasstrengthened or cosmeticssectors, furnishings design, jewellery, clothing andtextiles, Drawing onitswealthofexcellence in the capital. It now hasthemakings ofa European fashion Ly HAVE COME TO LYON. L L sawy,marked byaspirit ofinnovation. as always, to welcome the20thedition ofthis is, eventwhich in 20,000 professionals –hastaken in root thesector OF GREATER LYON L 4-6 SEPT2004-EUREXPO & INTERFILIÈRE LY LINGERIE -BALNÉAIRE nternational lingerie andswimwear exhibition, YON MODECITY&INTERFILIÈRE YON HAS A DATE WITH FASHION, YON VISION MODEIS AN INITIATIVE

on hasalways and creation. beenacity ofart yon, Mode City & Interfilière” – – Interfilière” & City Mode yon, to Ly ON MODECITY mo n Lyon Vision isparticularly proud Mode on. rrow. It is thus perfectly natural that the that natural perfectly thus is It rrow. SSION ION acclaimed by NEW Lyon, mode HALL 7 INTERFILIÈRE The revamped and “sweet” Interfiliere General Forum > The Trends space > The Fabrics Library

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Lyon Preview

A main entrance to the Lyon, Mode City show.

Lyon, Mode City Celebrates Its 20th PARIS — When the Lyon, Mode City trade fair convenes Sept. 4, it will mark its 20th anniversary and the lingerie, swimwear and textile event Here and left: plans to celebrate with fitting fanfare. Novelty sheers and But rather than just raising a toast or two, its organizers are making vast reembroidered laces improvements, revisiting trend forums, polishing runway events and import- dominate the runway. ing some 100 new lingerie and swim brands, as well as 60 new textile names. “We want buyers to discover tons of new things,” said Claire Jonathan, show manager. “We believe that if they come all the way to Lyon to see the same things they did last year, that the trip won’t be worthwhile. We want them to have a frisson of novelty and excitement.” Jonathan said the show would mount its first-ever pavilion of Australian swimwear brands, showcase some 20 new Italian exhibitors, in- cluding Sportmax and Moschino, and double the number of Brazilian ex- hibitors to 14. Additionally, 20 French firms will join the fair, including Chantal Thomass, which will use it to launch a swimwear line. “Twenty is the age of maturity,” Jonathan said. “But it’s also a time to take stock and to understand what made your success.” Jonathan said one of Lyon, Mode City’s accomplishments has been an ability to go beyond product and provide buyers with information about the rapidly changing retail environment. This season, the show will inaugurate a debate series with subjects from the best lingerie shops in the world to ethnic marketing and innovation in lingerie. Geared to challenge the status quo, the debates will be organized to resemble TV talk shows with simultaneous translation in five languages. “The world has changed enormously since we first started,” said Jonathan, noting that Lyon, Mode City kicked off with a mere 60 ex- hibitors. “Now, the need for pertinent information, information that is fast-moving, is more and more vital.” In September, Lyon, Mode City will showcase some 1,000 lingerie and swimwear brands, as well as 387 textile firms in its Interfilière sister show. Meanwhile, it is revisiting the trend forum, taking a wide-ranging, free-spirited approach to what Jonathan describes as a “fracturing trend environment.” Instead of classifying trends to match such categories as romantic, sporty or seductive, they will be mixed and matched to four major elements: fire, water, air and earth. “We think you can’t classify trends as easily as in the past,” she said. “You can’t boil them down as eas- ily. There are too many new directions.” A so-called “fifth element” space, reorganized regularly during the show to house new products and emerging trends, is meant to reflect the fast-changing pace of trends. “The fifth element space is a total information zone,” she said. “When we spot something interest- ing during the salon, it will get immediate play. This forum is going to be fast because today there is a race for creativity.” Jonathan said the show has edited a book, titled “Evolution,” of some of the must-have movements in lingerie, which has been sent to all exhibitors in advance. “It’s sort of a world-shopping guide,” she said. “It shows 10 new directions in lingerie, so our ex- hibitors can understand the current environment.” Jonathan said a monumental Bedouin-style tent will be erected to host three different daily fashion shows. Lingerie and swimwear each will get a separate showing, Jonathan said, adding that the third show of the day will be an amalgam of the two categories. “It’s meant to reflect the way young girls mix and match everything,” she said. Interfilière’s trend area also will be spruced up. Jonathan said a “party atmosphere” will be its theme, with fabrics arranged like an enormous banquet or according to technological innovations. — Robert Murphy WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004 33 WWW.WWD.COM

EAT LIKE A KING Home to many world- renowned chefs, Lyon is any food lover’s dream. Nicholas le Bec, who runs the restaurant at the luxurious Cour des Loges Hotel, is known for his homemade duck foie gras with black figs and roast crayfish with purple artichokes. Le Bec is also behind two of the city’s other Chef Paul Bocuse hot spots: Restaurant Nicolas le Bec and the Café-Épicerie Les Loges. Also on the gourmet list is world-famous chef Paul Bocuse, the inventor of “la nouvelle cuisine,” who boasts four of Lyon’s best brasseries, named after the four points Léger’s “Adam et Eve,” 1934. of the compass. Le Sud is Mediterranean- GET CULTURED themed, Le Nord has traditional French fare, French painter Fernand Léger is getting a retrospective at Lyon’s Museum L'Est features fusion food and L'Ouest is of Fine Arts through Sept. 20. The show follows the evolution of Léger’s island-inspired. His high gastronomic temple art, from his abstract Cubism of the 1910s to his Realist imagery of the is Paul Bocuse, just outside of Lyon in 1950s. Meanwhile, the museum is also marking its 200th anniversary with

Collanges-au-Mont-d’Or. a commemorative exhibit examining its history and extensive collections. It ▼ Nicolas le COUR DES LOGES, 2-8 Rue du Boeuf, 33-0-4-72-77-44-44. runs through October.

on Scene Bec’s Café- CAFÉ-ÉPICERIE LES LOGES, 2, Place du Petit-Collège, 33-0-4-72-77-44-40. MUSÉE DES BEAUX-ARTS DE LYON, Palais St. Pierre, 20, Place des Terreaux, Epicerie Les 33-0-4-72-10-17-40. RESTAURANT NICOLAS LE BEC, 14, Rue Grolée, 33-0-4-78-42-15-00. Loges at the LE NORD, 18, Rue Neuve, 33-0-4-72-10-69-69. Cour des LE SUD, 11, Place Antonin-Poncet, 33-0-4-72-77-80-00. Loges Hotel. L’EST, 14 Place Jules Ferry, 33-0-4-37-24-25-26. L’OUEST, 1 Quai du Commerce, 33-0-4-37-64-64-64. LOVE LACE PAUL BOCUSE, Collanges-au-Mont-d’Or, 33-0-4-72-42-90-90. What did lingerie look like in 1910? An exhibit titled “Corset and Bikini: A Voyage in Time,” charts the last 100 years of lingerie at the Musée des Tissus

Ly et des Arts Décoratifs. Running Sept. 4-14, the show is being sponsored by the Lyon, Mode City fair as part of the trade event’s 20th anniversary celebration. Meanwhile, fabric hounds can also visit Lyon's Ateliers de Soierie FINGER FOOD Vivante, the mills that have been the hub of Lyon’s silk production since the Lyon is also the home of the traditional “bouchon” restaurant, known for sampling plates of rosette saucisson Middle Ages. They are open to the public for guided tours. (salami), quenelles (creamy dumplings), cervelle de canut (cream cheese with chives and garlic), and andouillette ATELIERS DE SOIERIE VIVANTE, 21 Rue Richan, 33-0-4-78-27-17-13. sausages. Le Garet and Chez Marcelle are two of the best. MUSÉE DES TISSUS ET DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS, 30-34, Rue de la Charité, LE GARET, 7 Rue du Garet, 33-0-4-78-28-16-94. 33-0-4-78-38-42-00. CHEZ MARCELLE, 71 Cours Vitton, 33-0-4-78-89-51-07. — Jennifer Barton

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Innerwear Market Preview British Firms Deal With Global Issues By Nina Jones “Factories in the Far East are brilliant, promote the brand as a whole.” but instructions need to be really clear,” Myla sources Boas also garnered exposure for the LONDON — U.K. innerwear companies said Evans. “I think it’s up to the U.K. to fabrics the brand when Bodas provided the lingerie are adopting a “wait and see” attitude as work out a system to stop safeguard quo- company “[falls] for Zac Posen’s and Luella Bartley’s fall to how manufacturers in the European tas from becoming a problem. If there in love with.” shows, underlining the brand’s mission to Union will respond if there is a surge in were problems, we could possibly shift make underwear that can be worn unob- imports from China even as the British production to the U.K. or Turkey.” trusively under statement pieces. firms remain eager to establish them- Charlotte Semler, creative director of Export efforts come up against stiff selves on an international scale. Myla, a high-end British lingerie brand competition and currency exchange prob- “In the short term, British companies that is sold in the U.S., Japan, France and lems, Boas said. may not realize that the safeguard process Italy, sources and produces in France, “It’s difficult launching a premium lin- exists, or understand that with textiles, it Italy and Spain, as well as in China. gerie line in the U.S., where brands like only takes a couple of months for safe- “Our sourcing is really guided by the Victoria’s Secret have convinced con- guards to limit quotas of imports,” said fabrics that we fall in love with,” Semler sumers that their mass market brand is Martin Meacock of U.K. customs consult- said. “We go to China because, surprising- really a premium line,” Boas said. “U.S. ants Bell Davies, who predicts manufactur- ly to some, the quality is unbelievable. At consumers are not used to paying for pre- ing bases like Spain and France could peti- Myla, we don’t source on a price basis, but mium lingerie. Along with the weakness tion for safeguard quotas against China. purely on a quality basis, as this is a lux- of the dollar against the pound at the Under China’s entry agreement into ury product.” moment, it is a very challenging market.” the World Trade Organization, countries In contrast, My by Myla, Semler’s less- Charnos, a U.K. middle-market lin- are allowed to impose fresh quota limits expensive line, is sourced and produced gerie brand that is sold in Canada and is on certain import categories from the in Spain. “In Spain, we find it’s very effi- negotiating U.S. distribution, has also Asian nation under so-called safeguard cient, with a low labor cost,” she said. recently expanded into Germany, the provisions. The U.S. imposed such quota Semler has no plans to move her Netherlands and Sweden. The company

limits this year for key innerwear cate- sourcing or production. THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY has found it difficult competing with gories, including bras and robes. “We are happy where we are with established European brands. “U.K. brands don’t want to place large sourcing and production,” she said. “We the mistake of not doing any marketing,” “If European consumers are going to orders that won’t be fulfilled because of would never move based on price. If said Semler. “This fall, we are focusing very take on the Charnos brand, then they will emergency safeguard measures,” Davies someone from Eastern Europe could heavily on p.r. support. You really have to have to abandon an existing, established said. “That could mean a lot of difficulties show us good quality, then we would go sell your collection [to the consumer] and European brand,” said Wout Snijders, for those in the fashion industry, working there. It’s hard to find a good manufac- not rely on U.S. retailers to sell it for you.” group export manager for Premoda Group, six months in advance.” turer and when you do, you’re happy.” Helena Boas, managing director of Charnos’ parent company. “We have to focus Damaris Evans sources fabrics for her Exports for Myla represent 10 to 15 Bodas, which is sold at Barneys New York on our strongest product [to succeed in eponymous high-end collection from percent of the business, but Semler stores in the U.S., said: “We do a fitting Europe]: fashion bras in larger cup sizes.” Europe, which she produces in the U.K. expects that figure will change with time, service in our stores, which has really Keeping a strong brand image and For her lower-priced diffusion line, Mimi as the company markets its brand more traveled by word of mouth. We don’t do it being flexible in delivering the product is Holliday, she sources and produces in the aggressively in the U.S. in the U.S. at the moment, but will be pro- key to an innerwear brand establishing Far East. “When we first went to the U.S., we made moting it when we go out to the U.S. to itself internationally, Boas believes.

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Warnaco has its headquarters, from Birmingham, Ala. He was succeeded in June by Helen McCluskey, who Acquisitions, New Brands Grow Public Companies was president of the Special Markets Group of Liz Claiborne Inc. By Ross Tucker showcase the full assortment of Calvin Klein under- Movie Star Inc. is another company that saw sales wear in an image consistent with the brand,’’ he said. plunge heading into spring, more dramatically than NEW YORK — After a spring characterized by slumping “We are on track to end the year with over 60 stores in Warnaco. In its third quarter ended March 31, the New domestic sales, some intimate apparel manufacturers Europe, Asia and North America.” York-based intimates manufacturer saw sales decline are depending on acquisitions and new product offer- The company last month opened its second Calvin 28.1 percent to $12.2 million. ings to reverse the trend for fall. underwear store in Manhattan. Since then, the company has made moves that it The Warnaco Group Inc. has been among the most Management is counting on the introduction of the hopes will reverse the trend. On July 26, the company active. In the first quarter ended April 3, Warnaco’s inti- new JLo line to energize domestic sales. During the announced it had secured a new $17.5 million credit mate apparel sales slipped 3.8 percent to $141.2 mil- May call, Tom Wyatt, who was at the time president of facility with HSBC International, funds the company lion, and management is seeking to revitalize the the intimate apparel group, said the company was on said would be used for “working capital requirements.” Lejaby and Olga brands. The drop-off was countered by track for the JLo line to reach more than 800 depart- Only days later the company announced it had reached a strong performance from Calvin Klein underwear. ment and specialty stores. an agreement to acquire New York-based retailer “Our plans include further expansion in Japan, China, “Given the favorable response to the brand by retail- Sidney Bernstein & Son Lingerie Inc. Russia, South America, as well as further penetration in ers, we are expecting a solid performance by JLo for “We are excited to be acquiring Sidney Bernstein & Europe,” Joseph Gromek, Warnaco’s president and chief the back-to- school period,” said Wyatt. “We expect JLo Son as we have been actively pursuing various business executive officer, said in May during a conference call lingerie to contribute $15 million to $20 million in gross opportunities that will contribute to enhancing future with Wall Street analysts after the earnings report. revenues in the second half of 2004.” financial results,” said Melvin Knigin, chief executive “We continue to believe that Calvin Klein underwear Wyatt resigned in May for personal reasons, after officer, in a statement. “Last year, their sales were in freestanding retail stores represent an effective way to spending two years commuting to Manhattan, where excess of $18 million.”

NORDSTROM LAUDS NATORI: Nordstrom Inc. has presented the Natori Co. with the retailer’s Partners in Excellence Award. The award rec- INTIMATE NOTES ognizes Nordstrom vendors that demonstrate “exceptional commitment to quality, value, service, partnership, results, innovation and business ethics.” Peter Nordstrom, executive vice president and president of full-line stores, said, “The personal commitment Josie Natori has in making our business a success is incredible. Not only does her team deliver high-quality merchandise, but it’s sleepwear and lingerie with a fashion sense. And our customers love it.” Natori, chief executive officer and founder of the Natori firm she created in 1977 with a single embroidered nightshirt, said, “Our partnership with Nordstrom is a dream. Their commitment to their customers inspires and drives everyone at Natori to reach new heights every day. Being recog- nized is truly a highlight in Natori’s 26-year history.” Peter Nordstrom, Today, the Natori company, which designs, produces, markets and distributes lingerie, sleepwear Josie Natori, Blake and robes under the Josie, Natori Black Label and Natori White Label brands, as well as licensed Nordstrom and Erik foundations with Dana-Co., generates annual wholesale revenues in excess of $40 million. Nordstrom.

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Innerwear Market Preview Izod Goes for Its Inner Self

By Karyn Monget This will soon be followed by Movement activewear and jeans for fall. Golf apparel is slated for 2005. Izod intimates’ lace- NEW YORK — The much-awaited collection of Izod At a preview last week at the new Izod Intimates trimmed stretch Intimates will be unveiled today for spring retailing. showroom at 1411 Broadway here, Wyse described foam demi bra Produced and distributed under license by Kellwood the intimates as “classic and sexy preppy.” He and bikini. Co., the first collection of foundations, daywear, sleep- noted the look of the sleepwear and at-homewear wear and at-homewear to bear the Izod name has been “represents both the East and West Coasts, but it is a work in progress for the last six months. a relaxed version of the West Coast.” The introduction of intimates is part of an ambi- Wyse added the intimates are aimed at 25- to 45- tious plan by brand parent Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. year-old women, but noted, “I think it could attract to expand the Izod franchise into the women’s arena, a younger woman as well.” following nine years as a men’s brand. So far, Izod gen- “We are a very tough licensor,” said Wyse. “We erates $500 million in overall retail sales and licens- went through many editorial sessions. We said it’s ing ventures, but that’s been only in the men’s field. got to be a 10 and it’s got to be something an execu- However, the women’s market could bolster rev- tive would want to wear.” enues significantly, with a key example being sports- Mogan said, “We went there a lot and had brain- wear, which is sold exclusively at units of May Co. storming sessions with PVH to get a firm under- until January, and is projected to hit around $50 mil- standing of what PVH and Izod were all about. It lion this year, according to company officials. was about color, a sports-spirited look, simplicity “In my youth, Izod was an $800 million brand, and and fun details inspired by today’s youth, but inter- we’re close to being an $800 million brand again,” said preted for men and women.” Kenneth Wyse, president of licensing at PVH, noting About 40 percent of the foundations and sleep- that in addition to the U.S., the label is sold in Canada wear collection is anchored in solid fashion colors and Australia, with agreements recently signed to dis- including pistachio, lilac, turquoise, lemon, coral, tribute Izod products to Central and South America. chambray, pink and white. There also are “mix it up” Other international deals are pending, he said. prints, such as ditsy florals, paisleys, gingham and For the moment, the icing on the cake is Izod stripes that are incorporated as trims or juxtaposed Intimates, which will be rolled out to 600 depart- as part of a garment. Innovative textures and fabrics ment store doors beginning Jan. 25. Shipments of play a big part in giving the collection a customized intimate apparel will coincide with the launch of look, such as lace-lined demi-cup bras, printed an Izod accessories collection of handbags. stretch poplin, cotton and spandex jersey, solid knit Bob Skinner, president and chief operating offi- pointelle, Swiss dots with satin trim, piqué knits and cer of Kellwood, said, “We are delighted with the embroidered cotton lawn. Special detailing includes overall success of the Izod women’s wear collec- subtle Izod logos on bra straps and back closures. tion. The addition of the intimates collection to our Suggested retail for foundations and daywear roster of products is a natural extension of our part- will be $24 to $26 for bras, $11 to $18 for panties and nership with PVH. We are confident the Izod con- $18 to $26 for camis. Chemises start at $26 and long sumer will respond to the intimates collection with pajama sets go for $50 and $54. The sleepwear line the same high level of excitement.” is also sold as separates with prices averaging $20 James Mogan, president of Kellwood’s Intimate and $24 for tops and $26 for pajama pants. A table- Apparel Division, said there will be discussions with top program of panties retails for three pair for $18. retailers this week regarding “soft shops” to house Regarding bras and panties, Debbie Long, pres- Izod Intimates as a collection, as well as merchan- ident of the Biflex Intimates Group division at dising classifications in specific departments. Kellwood, which designs and produces founda- Wyse and Mogan declined to give a sales projec- tions, said, “We used color and prints to add tex- tion for the intimates collection. However, first- ture. But at the same time, it not only had to look year wholesale sales are expected to be over $30 good but feel good with fabrics like cotton and million, according to industry estimates. Lycra and soft-touch laces. The Izod woman has a The PVH-Kellwood licensing partnership is viewed very busy schedule and wants to be comfortable.” as a huge opportunity for both apparel giants. The aggres- Regarding a marketing and advertising campaign, Cami and sive licensing initiative into Izod’s women’s business Wyse would not elaborate other than to say it will be pajama pants kicked off this spring with sportswear and swimwear. “substantial.” of solid knit pointelle by Izod Intimates. It STRETCHES PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY

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NY Showroom 183 Madison Avenue, Suite 1516 New York, NY 10016 Tel 212.779.4366 Fax 212.779.4369 E-mail [email protected]

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Penney 25.4 92701 40.00 2.06 84.50 22.41 Kmart - 209597 77.43 11.51 65.44 39.59 Kohl’s 25.9 130117 45.76 2.51 SOURCE: DATA NETWORKS, STANDARD & POOR’S 21.65 14.82 Limited Brands 14.8 113201 20.44 0.88 36.48 23.70 May Dept. Stores 18.3 64857 26.53 0.41 37.87 17.25 Mothers Work 8.9 952 18.37 -0.64 59.70 37.95 Neiman Marcus 13.9 8611 54.55 0.56 46.30 20.81 Nordstrom 21.9 63498 43.90 1.05 25.78 17.25 Pacific Sunwear 18.2 84999 20.40 1.10 46.56 29.62 Regis 17.9 9550 41.16 -0.61 Shares Rebound on Strong Earnings 9.70 1.90 Retail Ventures 37.3 4787 8.04 0.68 32.86 22.05 Ross Stores 15.5 80080 23.15 0.58 17.92 10.65 Saks 20.4 60930 13.05 -0.19 NEW YORK — The WWD Composite Stock Index 56.06 31.21 Sears 3.6 170789 36.68 3.03 advanced for the first time in seven weeks, gain- 17.23 12.02 ShopKo 12.2 17050 15.55 1.05 ing 1.7 percent to 1,066.39 from 1,048.19 a week 42.01 24.52 Stage Stores 11.6 9401 35.46 1.20 ago, helped partly by solid second-quarter results 18.59 5.00 Stein Mart 57.6 12147 18.14 1.18 from two major manufacturers. 12.15 6.25 Syms - 325 10.38 0.12 39.82 29.05 Talbots 16.1 11204 30.80 0.60 The S&P 500 also ended the week up for the 47.40 36.19 Target 20.9 183836 43.60 -0.23 first time since June 10, improving 1.4 percent to 26.82 18.71 TJX 16.7 127207 23.47 1.19 1,101.72 from 1,086.2. That gain came despite a se- 31.62 9.89 Urban Outfitters 40.0 57809 29.74 2.16 ries of conflicting economic reports. Although 37.82 29.31 Walgreens 28.8 132798 36.40 0.07 consumer confidence surged to a two-year high, 61.31 50.50 Wal-Mart 25.2 451021 53.01 -0.15 crude oil prices shot past $43 a barrel on 12.50 3.42 Wet Seal - 29472 5.10 0.75 10.15 1.95 Wilsons Leather - 17705 4.90 0.64 Wednesday and the gross domestic product grew 31.30 22.05 Zale 14.1 16437 27.14 1.20 at a much cooler annual rate of 3 percent in the second quarter. Vendors Indicators were more clear cut in the WWD 52.30 36.55 Alberto Culver 22.7 21245 46.62 -1.25 index, however, because of higher profits from in- 46.65 30.47 Avon 14.1 133875 43.01 -0.07 27.41 19.80 Benetton 28.7 197 21.76 -0.29 dustry stalwarts Jones Apparel Group and Liz 25.70 18.45 Cherokee 14.1 806 24.43 0.80 Claiborne Inc. 47.45 24.63 Coach 35.5 56137 42.79 2.00 At Jones, investors traded up the company’s Guess swung back to profitability in the second quarter. 59.39 49.22 Columbia Sprtswr 17.2 10735 54.75 2.10 shares 1.3 percent to $37.35 from $36.86 a week 34.60 22.48 Del Labs 17.5 2236 34.32 -0.15 ago after Jones said second-quarter net income Productions Inc.’s stock finished the week up 23.94 14.91 Elizabeth Arden - 6523 19.67 -0.48 49.34 32.60 Estée Lauder 28.7 42423 43.90 -0.35 rose 9.1 percent to $77.6 million and total rev- 3.1 percent to $32.09 from $31.12 after the com- 27.97 15.87 Fossil 15.6 13381 24.19 0.64 enues gained 7.4 percent to $1.05 billion. pany posted double-digit bottom- and top-line 12.00 6.50 G-III 7.6 44 7.00 -0.05 As for Claiborne, investors reacted with even gains in the second quarter and beat Wall 38.40 29.18 IFF 17.8 14875 36.54 -0.04 more enthusiasm, sending its stock 7 percent Street’s forecast by 2 cents. 33.36 7.80 Inter Parfums 18.9 4394 16.69 0.12 higher to $36.19 from $33.81 a week ago. The com- Not to be outdone, investors rewarded Guess 40.00 27.98 Jones Apparel 14.8 66197 37.35 0.49 pany’s 13.3 percent increase in net income to ’s swing back to second-quarter profitability 45.10 31.50 Kellwood 13.9 15502 40.15 1.65 Inc. 37.39 23.86 Kenneth Cole 18.4 3468 32.09 0.97 $50.6 million and 6.9 percent sales gain to $1.03 with an 11 percent run-up in the share price to 38.90 32.09 Liz Claiborne 13.6 50395 36.19 2.38 billion, along with an increase in its full-year close at $16.20 from $14.60 last week. Guess said 6.90 2.80 Mossimo 11.9 679 3.36 -0.24 earnings per share forecast of $2.79 to $2.83 from better sales across all three of its business seg- 17.97 10.08 Movado 15.8 2416 15.01 0.17 $2.70 to $2.77, all contributed to the bullish senti- ments contributed to the $2.1 million in profits it 78.56 49.60 Nike 20.3 71990 72.71 2.44 ment for the stock. recorded versus last year’s $5.4 million loss. 2.65 1.03 Novel Denim - 320 1.05 -0.01 47.50 22.92 Oxford 16.2 6011 39.57 2.07 On a smaller scale, Kenneth Cole —Dan Burrows 29.95 21.58 Perry Ellis 12.7 1944 23.56 0.17 19.95 13.72 Phillips-Van Heusen - 8054 18.97 0.61 37.05 25.06 Polo Ralph Lauren 18.8 29091 32.96 1.04 25.16 14.70 Quiksilver 18.3 17730 21.56 0.71 42.95 31.25 Reebok 13.1 32035 34.06 0.06 3.93 2.05 Revlon - 77789 2.30 -0.08 Metro Group Sales Up, but Kaufhof Suffers 19.95 15.43 Russell 14.5 5298 17.69 0.30 4.76 1.12 Tarrant - 264 1.54 0.08 BERLIN — Metro Group AG improved 4.2 percent to 13.35 aggressive price competition. 18.25 10.04 Tommy Hilfiger 9.6 20093 14.00 0.40 grew second-quarter earnings billion euros, or $16.1 billion, For the first half of the fiscal 7.00 0.90 Tropical Sprtswr - 16668 2.10 -1.48 and sales, but results were hurt from 12.81 billion euros, or year, net earnings increased by 50.45 36.82 VF Corp. 12.8 20073 50.01 1.80 by continued sluggish consumer $15.44 billion, last year. Exclud- 21.1 percent to 143.5 million 21.98 12.94 Warnaco - 11980 18.90 -0.28 demand at its Kaufhof Galleria ing currency effects, sales would euros, or 44 euro cents a share, department store chain. have increased 5.1 percent, from 118.4 million euros, or 36 WWDStock Market Index Biggest Percentage Changes The Düsseldorf-based compa- Metro said. euro cents, a year ago. In dol- For Week Ending July 30 ny, which is the world’s fifth- The Kaufhof department store lars, profits were $176.1 million, Gainers Close Change largest retailer, said net income division, however, posted an op- or 54 cents, versus $142.7 mil- Kmart 77.43 17.46 for the three months ended June erating loss that widened to 53.6 lion, or 43 cents. Sales for the Composite: Retailers: Vendors: Wet Seal 5.10 17.24 30 increased 8.7 percent to 131.6 million euros, or $64.6 million, period advanced 5.1 percent to 1066.39 1037.69 1222.84 Wilsons Leather 4.90 15.02 million euros, or 40 euro cents a while sales for the quarter slid 26.22 billion euros, or $32.17 bil- Guess 16.20 10.96 share, from 121.1 million euros, 3.6 percent to 801.8 million euros, lion, from 24.95 billion euros, or American Eagle 32.77 10.63 or 37 euro cents, a year ago. In or $966.3 million. In Germany, $27.55 billion. Excluding curren- 18.20 17.77 21.29 Losers Close Change dollars, earnings were $158.6 which is Kaufhof ’s primary mar- cy effects, sales would have in- Tropical Sprtswr 2.10 -41.34 million, or 48 cents, versus $137.6 ket, sales fell 3.5 percent. creased 6.2 percent, said Metro. Bluefly 1.81 -16.97 million, or 42 cents. Figures have Metro said a lackluster sum- For the full fiscal year, Metro Mossimo 3.36 -6.67 been converted from euros at av- mer business affected Kaufhof ’s confirmed its forecast of Index base of 1000 is keyed to Mothers Work 18.37 -3.37 erage exchange rates for the cor- apparel sales, but that the depart- “growth in sales of at least 6 per- closing prices of Dec. 31, 2002. Revlon 2.30 -3.36 responding periods. ment store “maintained its mar- cent before currency effects.” Group sales for the quarter ket position” in an atmosphere of —Melissa Drier Work All Weekend Without Lifting a Finger.

PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA, KEITH SMITH, AND DAVID TURNER WWDWeekend Issue date: September 11 Close: August 27 WWD editors are working overtime for you during N.Y. Fashion Week to deliver more of the glitz, glam and reviews that the industry really wants. Let your brand message do the talking to industry executives, influencers, the media and “A” list attendees.

Bonus Distribution: Bryant Park tents, other key shows, power breakfast spots, fashionable NYC hotels, and high-end specialty stores.

For more information contact Ralph Erardy, senior v.p. group publisher at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 46 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004

320 FIFTH AVENUE THE ACCESSORIES/HANDBAG BUILDING SHOWROOMS AVAILABLE 1,300/1,800/1,900/2,500 SQ FT PLEASE JOIN US FOR COFFEE IN OUR NEW LOBBY Levi’s Handbag Opportunities AUGUST MARKET WEEK 2004 Fast growing accessories WINOKER REALTY company, w/ licenses from Established in 1979, Olivet International is a leader in manufacturing, COREY ABDO 212.519.2040 JONATA DAYAN 212.519.2009 major national brands exporting, and distribution of quality handbags, small leather goods, fashion seeks the following: accessories, and travel goods. Several exciting opportunities are available Executive Assistant at various career levels for interested professionals in Olivet’s newly To assist President and VP formed Levi’s Handbag Division. of company. SALES MANAGER - Candidate must have minimum 5 years experience in Email res & sal req to: the handbag market. Responsibilities include, but not limited to, establishing [email protected] new accounts, analyzing and reacting to business trends. Proven track record PLANNER/ANALYST and strong relationships with Department Stores, Mid-Tier & Jr. Specialty To forecast and track sales Chains are a must. Also need computer skills in typical office programs. at Wal-Mart. 5 years min SENIOR MERCHANDISER AND/OR SENIOR DESIGNER - Two positions PATTERN/SAMPLES DESIGNER OPEN HOUSE exp, good knowledge of for creative and self motivated professionals with a minimum 3 years expe- Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Forward, New York’s 1st fashion incuba- Wal-Mart systems and retail rience in the handbag market. Knowledge of junior products is a must. Also work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 tor space, is selecting the next Team of link required. needed is the ability work with customers, operate various presentation/ Designers for its Orchard Street boutique. Email res & sal req to: PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Tuesday, August 10th, 6:30 pm - 8:30 pm [email protected] graphics computer programs, understand production process, and be a team 72 Orchard St. (btwn Broome & Grand) player with thorough knowledge of working with sources in the Orient. PRODUCTIONS DESIGNERS All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Interview & presentation to Style Council Each position offer excellent growth opportunities and salary commensu- Call Sherry 212-719-0622. members. Past Style Council participants Womens headwear, cold have included Jorge Ramon, Fashion weather, handbags & back- rate with ability. Please Fax resumes to: 212-239-7426 Direrctor of Teen People; Libby Caloway, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Fashion Editor of the New York Post; packs. Min 2 years exp. ASST PRINT All replies will be held in strict confidence. PRODUCTIONS Dany Levy, founder of the Daily Candy. Good knowledge of tech, Full servcie shop to the trade. Fine For more information, contact the Lower and piece goods. Strong STYLIST Cotton design House locat- DESIGNER fast work. 212-869-2699. East Side Business Improvement District: Illustrator skills a must. 212-226-9010 / [email protected] Email res & sal req to: ed in Soho is seeking Asst. KOLTOV, INC. PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD [email protected] Print Stylist with 3-5 years Leading Branded Handbag Mfr. seeks High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- exp. Must be excellent color- creative designer w/min. 3 years exp. sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 to join our team. Candidates must ist and able to work w/ cus- have a strong sense of color and trend. tomers on coordinating Orient exp. preferred. Sketching/ Spec Designer $125-150K. Current exp. in groups of fabrics. Candi- skills req’d. Must be proficient w/ private label moderate woven women’s date must be team player. Photoshop/Illustrator. Will interact w/ sportswear. Must hang w/ Kazu, Bonnie accounts. Salary commensurate w/exp. and Norma, Yellowriver, J. Suzette, Ban- All responses will be kept Fax/E-mail resumes to Brett Stone at: MADE TO MEASURE FASHION RESUMES SINCE 1970 ner Ind., FOB, Hi Fashion, CMT, Signe, confidential. 818-706-2675 / [email protected] Freelance Designer; Evening, Bridal & Lifetime Updating/Phone Interviews burbank, etc. Exp on PC Illustrator/ Please fax resumes to: Daywear; European trained. Quality sew- Rush Service Available Photoshop. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy 212-431-6733 ing. Can work with your ideas. Garment PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. Center Studio. Web: FeliciaFarrar.com (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Attn: Kristin McCartney Tel: 212-239-1003 www.resumesforfashion.com Designer $90-100K. Current exp. 2-7 boys sptswr required. Denim,knits/ tops, + sweaters. Must hang w/ Gap, Levis, Old Na- DESIGNER vy, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy Major Intimate Apparel Company seeks a creative, motivated and highly organized individual with ladies fashion underwear and license experi- Designer/Accessories ence. Ideal candidate should be detail Accessories Co. seeks creative child- oriented w/ strong sense of colors, Velour + Fleece trends and follow through skills. Rib + Jersey Lycra ren’s designer for hair and cosmetics. Drake Fabrics Excellent opportunity for long term Responsibilities will include designing 718-389-8902 growth with well-established co. Over- seasonal lines, prepare sampling / pro- CAD Artist to $70K. Current exp. in seas travel a must. Salary depends on duction packages and follow through Admin Asst/ Reception experience. Fax Res: 212-302-2753 on all phases of development which Accessories Co. seeks hardworking reli- primavision 5.2 Photoshop/Illustrator. Strong in Full Fashion sweaters, jackards, includes specs and garment details. able detail-oriented person to work in Great company and full benefits! busy quick paced atmosphere. Must prints, stripes, plaids, embroideries etc. Missy JR & girls. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Must be computer literate. Please fax have good computer skills - Email, Designer Assoc $50-75K. Current exp. resume to S. Couper at 212-842-4020. Excel & Word. Fax res: 212-302-2753 in JR. Denim jeans, Jackets, Skirts EOE Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. etc. Good knowledge of denim washes, No Lot Too Big or Too Small. APPAREL STAFFING, LTD Clerical Assistant fabrics, etc. Hang w/ LEI, Mudd, Call CLOTHES-OUT: "Number ONE in Recruiting" Dollhouse etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy DESIGNER $$$ (937) 898-2975 Dir of Design -Walmart- Queens, NY. Private Label Jr. trendy Junior Denim MFR. To $175K++ Major textile converter needs assistant costume jewelry mfr. Translate hottest Head Designer who will work with Wal Mart EDI, and trends; exp w/overseas factories; able 488 7th Ave (36th Street) Missy Contemporary CNS Knits To $100K Retail Link. Primary function is Daily Designer Assoc $65-$75K. Current exp. in pri- to collaborate w/sales team. Salary Designer EDI order processing, and billing. Al- vate label woven women’s casual or career based on exp. Call Laurie: 212-947-3399 LIVE/WORK SHOWROOMS Junior Sweaters-Xlnt oppty To $75K+ so work using Wal Mart Retail Link. sporstwear. Adapt better to bridge line to mod- or email: [email protected] 1BR- 600 SF - from $1750 Production Coordin-Sptswr Work from our Jersey City main office. erate private label line. Strong knowledge of KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Great location. Hi ceils. Wd flrs. Immed. Must be Bi-lingual To $50K Fax resume to 201-659-9719 woven fabrics. Preferable to hang w/ Liz 212-629-8694 M-F 10am-6pm NO FEE Marker/Grader Claiborne, Jones, Kellwood, Ann Taylor, Designer CLOSE OUTS Sportswear-Westchester loc. $50K/55K Talbots, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy We Buy Men’s, 7th Ave. - Opportunity!!! Sr. Techn Dsgnr-Tailored Blazers & CONTROLLER Senior Designer/ Women’s & Children’s Great space available for rent in one of Jacket Exp $BOE Calypso, a retail/whsle operation in wom- en’s clothing seeks a hands-on Controller Merchandiser All Quantities the most prestigious bldgs. on 7th Ave. Techn Designer Designer - Belts Approx. 300-400 s.f. Doorman; Kitchen; Mjr. Missy Sweater MFR To $70K+ w/5+yrs exp. in accounting in a wholesale Established Men’s Sleepwear/ WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY Window view; Bright light. Must see...! Techn Designer-Childrenswear /manufacturing business. The candidate Loungewear / Underwear manufacturer We are nice people to deal with Call: 212-268-8316 Min. of 3yrs+ Exp-Spec FIT Approved To60K will be implicated in an undergoing search seeks head designer / merchandiser. &selection for new application for the Seeking Freelance or P/T men’s and Candidate must be a creative, well Other Listings @ www.ApparelStaffing.com women’s belt designer for Rocawear’s P.S. Large Piece Good Deals or Fax Resumes to (212) 302-1161 manufacturing and accounting dept. De- organized, detail oriented team leader Also HBA and General Merchandise. Office/Showroom Space Hidrock Realty gree in accounting, financial reporting accessory division. Excellent opportunity. with ability to multi task and meet Call Rocky 800-762-5488 AGGRESSIVE SPACES Assistant /interpreting abilities & excellent multi- Must be proficient in Illustrator/ deadlines. Must be able to design from tasking skills req. French & QuickBooks a +. Photoshop. Fax resume to: 212-947-4439 concept to finished package with a as low as $16 per sq. ft. DESIGN AND or email: [email protected] 877-NYC-SPACE Fax resume and salary to: 212 625 9694 keen ability to spot trends. A good MERCHANDISING understanding of the Men’s mid tier Showroom / Office / Retail Menswear design and manufacturing and mass market is essential. Woven We find you space-best deal-no fee firm seeks entry level design assistant. DESIGN ASSISTANT Designer and knit experience preferred. Sublet 525 7th/ready Candidate should be energetic, crea- Major children’s apparel company Excellent opportunity with unlimited Garment Center Real Estate tive and organized. Responsibilities in- seeks design assistant with experience Freelance Designer growth potential for the right individual. Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 clude designing and executing product in production worksheets. Must be M. Hidary and Company is seeking a Salary is commensurate w/ experience. presentation boards, organizing and detail oriented with great organization- Young Men’s/Men’s Freelance Designer Email your resume to: tracking seasonal fabric deliveries, or- al skills. Must also be a team player in to work on site. Could lead to a FT posi- [email protected] Showrooms & Lofts dering and invoicing art supplies. Can- exciting, fast paced work environment. tion. Must have 2+ yrs exp. Outerwear, Equal Opportunity Employer BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS didate must possess strong organiza- MAC/Illustrator exp. needed. including knowledge of tech packs. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail tion and communication skills. Fax resume 212-239-2766 Freehand/Illustrator required. SaraMax ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Photoshop and Illustrator experience a Fax or Email resume: 212-629-8692 or [email protected] plus. Please fax all resumes to: DESIGNERS IMMED 212-764-4342 Design Director $150- $175K. Current exp. in jr, denim required. Must hang w/ Mavi, Mudd, WOMENS WEAR $50K Bra Molder $29-35K. Min 6 mos to Squeeze, etc. Supervise 4 indiv. Top branded GRAPHIC ARTISTS $50K 1 year exp. in molding. Midtown name.Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy TECHNICAL $50K very large co. Excel benefits. DESIGNER - Handbags [email protected] Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy Fast growing Designer Handbag line seeks creative/technical individual w/minimum 254 West 35th Street 3-5 years experience. Ideal candidate is DESIGNER Design Director / Product Development Successful private label company look- SHOWROOM/LIGHT MANUFACTURING BUYER ahighly organized, independent worker. Manager to oversee design from con- Sourcing and/or merchandising knowl- ing for energetic, talented designer with 7,000 - 7,500 sq. ft. better woven private label Owner: 212-860-0020 W STORES cept to final product. Must be willing edge a plus. Please Fax resume & salary to travel. Must be detailed and well requirements to: 212-777-5125 experience. Extensive fabric research Accessories Buyer / organized for Rocawear accessories and sourcing experience required. 900 sq. ft. Showroom division. Must have at least 5 years ex- Candidate must possess strong sketch- Assistant Buyer perience. Fax to: 212-947-4439 or email ing, computer and communication Est’d. Co. has separate showroom for sub- skills. Email resume: [email protected] lease. Can offer assistance in shipping Popular fashion accessories stores locat- [email protected] DESIGNER IMMED & bookkeeping if necessary. 212-944-6868 ed in the W Hotels seeks motivated, BOYS high-energy professionals. Trend fore- GREAT FIRM Designer to $100K. Current exp in mens casting and computer skills required. Designer $100-$125K. Current exp. in updated GROWTH OPPTY denim bottoms. Must have visited denim Showrooms - 5th Ave + Madison missy tops. Must hang w/ DCC, At Last, Style Lofts - 32-40th Wood Fl. + Light Excellent growth / career opportunity. $45,000 mills + washing facilities. Must hang w/Po- Fax resume: 212-334-9806 &Co. Exp in dealing w/ and traveling to India+ [email protected] lo, DKNY, Guess, Paper, True Religion, Diesel, Office Space 500 FT. 36th St. Europe. call 973-564-9236 Agcy. Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 E-mail resume: [email protected] Lucky, Mavi, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 2, 2004 47

Production Mgr to $75K. Current exp. in embroidery or trimming co. requ’d. Pur- Design chasing, shipping, inventory. Knowledge of merchandise. Supervise 6-10. Mdtwn Senior Designer import co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. The Robyn Meredith division Product Mgr. To $100K of Donnkenny Apparel, Inc. Women’s better specialty stores has an opening for a Private Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 V.P. Sales, U.S. -- to $200,000 Label Designer. This position [email protected] works directly with our cus- PUBLIC RELATIONS Women’s Sportswear Manufacturer tomers. This position entails work with catalog, department ASSOCIATE Forty year old, profitable manufacturer of women’s dresses, Leading US menswear manufacturer skirts, pants, and blouses seeks to enlarge its distribution in store groups and specialty seeks public relations professional store chains to develop all with 1-2 years experience for NY-based the U.S. We seek a successful National Sales Manager with a Sean John’s Exciting New Women’s Collection has the woven and cut and sew knit office. Must be highly organized, moti- minimum of ten years experience selling similar items. The following opportunities: vated self-starter with excellent oral sportswear. The ideal candi- and written communications skills. successful candidate will be expected to run our New York Senior Knit Technical Designer date will have 5-7 years ex- Position requires extensive multi- office/showroom, add to and control regional rep organiza- tasking and an outgoing personality. tions, attend all major shows, and call on major accounts. •5 years minimum experience in technical design perience with extensive fabric Must be computer literate. Salary based •Full fashion sweater/ cut & sew knowledge a must and merchandise knowledge. on experience. E-mail resumes to: We offer a salary of $200,000.00 plus a bonus based on •Must have knowledge of importing sweaters, with Italy and Must be able to work in [email protected] sales, and an excellent benefits package. knits from the Orient Photoshop and Illustrator and travel will be required. Receptionist Respond in confidence to: Fax #815-352-3154 or •Yarn sourcing a must Apparel company seeking someone E-mail [email protected] •Contemporary experience a plus well spoken, punctual, reliable, efficient We offer a competitive salary who can handle busy phone. Exp. A + . Senior Technical Design Manager and benefits. Please send Fax resume to Lucy: 212-944-1181 •Must have at least 5-7 years experience overseeing wovens resume, including salary RECRUITER/ APPAREL INDUSTRY req. to: Human Resources, Account Exec $$ Hi Open. Current exp. in and cut & sew tech design team Tired of the rate race? Move to Tampa, women’s outerwear with a follwing req’d. •Total knowledge of garment construction, strong DONNKENNY, 1411 Broad- Fla area. Email Sue@ justmgt.com Must hang w/ Amorex, G-III, Gallary, patternmaking skills and strong draping ability way, New York, NY 10018; Retail Director/3 yrs exp $120K Rothchild, Weather Proof, Marvin Fax: (212) 790-3910; Or Store Mgr/French designer/NYC $70K Richards, Bromley etc. Lg. expanding co. Store Mgrs/Chicago, Houston, Troy MI $Open with several divisions. Growth oppt’y. •Must know Adobe Illustrator 10, Photoshop, and Excel email: humanresources@ Sales Assoc/Luxury Goods $35K+ Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy •Will be responsible for all product fit approvals for proto donnkenny.com (indicating FAX: 212-481-4086 [email protected] MATERNITY SALES and stock including spec measurements and grading position title in subject APPAREL SALES Growing co. seeks a motivated, ener- •Communicate daily and be familiar with factories overseas and area). EOE M/F/D/V Sales Assistant getic, exp’d sales professional w/ est’d Must have 3 yr experience as Sales As- Successful NYC Apparel Company contacts nationwide. NY based. Great be able to track, spec, and communicate fit comments to factories DONNKENNY sistant, especially in children’s appa- with a substantial high end specialty oppty for the right person. Please email re- rel. Working wiht dept stores a plus. store base seeks seller that has strong, sume to: [email protected] Senior Fabric Director must be computer literate & have current relationships with the upstairs •7 years minimum experience great communication & organizational retailers and catalogues. The company skills. Fax resume to 212-279-9888 has a nationally known brand name Private Label •Complete knowledge of contemporary/ better fabric market. within the bridge market. This is a NY Women’s private label domestic knit •Must know fabric vendors and sourcing in Europe and the great opportunity for the right person. manufacturer looking for salesperson Creative Newborn Designer SALES SUPPORT Fax to: 212-290-2590 or with acct. following to sell private label to Orient and all aspects of fabric development Fast moving childrenswear co. Established intimate apparel company Email to: [email protected] mail order and retailers, related separate needs a Designer who possesses seeks dynamic, detail oriented individ- knits, moderate priced. Company est. Senior Woven Product Developer ual to support sales team. Must have 1986 w/small showroom in 1407 Bway. •3-5 years minimum experience in contemporary/ young the ability to create bodies as well as strong communication & computer EXCITING Fax resume to 718-993-6314 w/salary or designer sportswear art / prints and embroideries for lay- skills. Exp working with major retail- compensation info. Attn: Eric B. •Liaison between design and production ette, sleep & play, blanket sleepers ers preferred. Great opportunity! Fax OPPORTUNITY for both boy and girl branded label. resume to 212-683-4038 attn: sales. Major women’s accessory & jewelry co. •Must have Italy / Orient factory experience seeks a sharp sales pro with mid-tier Private Label •Must know fabric and construction We are a fast growing importer of Samplemaker and discounter following. Please fax generic and licensed product. Must Leading Leather Belts & Accessories Co. resume to (201)840-9689 NY position Sales Associate Senior Woven Technical Designer be proficient on MAC Illustrator 8 / seeks an exp’d. Samplemaker or trained and everything is confidential. Reputable better private label women’s Assistant. Must have knowledge of machi- mfr seeks talented jr. salesperson to •Minimum 5 years experience 10. At least 2 years exp. expand existing business & develop •Responsible for fitting and reviewing garments on models nery, be capable of making patterns, Fax resume to: Attn: MM and have high quality standards. Reloca- HOSIERY SALES new accounts. We have an office in Asia •Responsible for communicating with vendors/factories on a 212-971-4681 tion may be necessary. Fax: 516-364-1143 Well est’d legwear company with popular supported by patternmakers, designers brand & license, offering complete women and technical team in NY. Candidate daily basis must have strong product knowledge in •Responsible for garment specs Sample Maker to $25K. Exp. in bras re- & men’s socks, trouser sock & tight lines Product Devel Mgr $100-$120K. Current quired. Mid-town large co. Ecellent to EXPERIENCED REPS with following better sportswear. •Must have strong wovens background exp, in home furnishing reqred. Kitchen + benefits. 35 hours/ week. Broadway at only. Would consider in house position Email resume:[email protected] •Must be proficient in MAC Illustrator, Excel, etc tables tops textiles, or bedding etc. Ability 38th st. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. for the right person. Please send resumes, •Must have strong patternmaking skills and strong draping skills to make presentations to accounts as well as Sample Sewer cover letter and salary expectations to: plan calandar and direct fashion trends. E-mail: [email protected] or Sales Assistant Designer Will relo to NJ. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy SEWER Fax: (212) 279-6111 Major apparel company seeks individu- Wayne, New Jersey Sportswear firm al to work with Account Executive •5 yrs experience in Contemporary Women’s Design PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT IMMED needs sample sewer with 5 years expe- ACCESSORIES on supporting accounts. Individual •Knowledge of Fabric and Fit a must rience. Must be able to do children’s should be motivated about the sales $$OPEN$$ and junior’s knit samples. No opportu- [email protected] field and be ready to handle different Trim Manager nity to work from home. Fax resume tasks. Excellent computer and com- to: 973-256-9395 or call Jesse: 973-256-0014 munication skills are necessary. •5 years minimum experience in sourcing and developing PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Fax resume 212-239-2766. trims for women’s apparel Spec Tech $40-$50K. Current exp. in MANAGER specing kidswear required. Assist head de- •Total knowledge of trims including special buttons, zippers, Fast paced Private Label Co. (Missy signer. Send spec packages to Far East. lace, etc Sportswear, Knits & Wovens) is Computerized. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. Sales Director •Computer experience a must looking to fill the position of a Product Tech Designer to $75K. Current exp, in Wanted for hot, edgy, contemporary, Development Manager. Ideal candi- full fashion sweaters. Embellishments, Independent Sales Representatives women’s line. Must have 5-7 experience, Join us and you’ll receive an excellent salary and benefits pack- date must be experienced (3-5 yrs min) beads, embroideries. Tech sketching + Lonsdale London one of Europe’s re- contacts in dept/specialty, leadership age working with one of the hottest apparel companies around. and possess a track record of develop- specs. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy nowned Men and Woman’s better skills, and think outside the box. ing new business while growing sportswear leaders is expanding to the Email resume to :[email protected] If you’re interested, please email your resume to exisitng accounts. Must be team player Tech Designer to 80K U.S. There now exists an excellent op- w/excellent communications skills, Current exp in woven women’s tops. portunity for gifted independent sales [email protected] detail oriented and computer literate, Large mid-town co. Call 973-564-9236 professionals to be part of this growth. able to coordinate between Customer, Jaral Fashion Agency We offer a very competitive commis- Salesperson/Merchandiser Design and Production (Orient). Must sion and commitment to a long-term Overseas Garment Contractor with strong be familiar with domestic and import Tech Design partnership. Please email resume to: textile fashion & sourcing capabilities Designer to $90K. Current exp. in contem- Jewelry Designer piece-goods market. Dept store seeks a dynamic, organized, and moti- porary cut & sewn tops. Must hang w/ [email protected] Nationally known jewelry manufacturer contacts a plus. UNTHINKABLE or fax: 212-575-8054 vated individual. Must have strong Vince, Three Dots, & Theory etc. Strong of karat gold and stone that appeals to Fax: SM at (212) 302-1856 Women’s Sportswear/Dress Co. seeks a relationships with major retailers in knowledge of cut & sewn fabrics devel. Im- the middle market seeks a Designer to Technical Designer for knits & wovens. the Ladies’ Budget to Moderate Market. port co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy develop new product. This is a fast paced Responsibilities include flat sketching, Judith Ripka Companies 5 years product development experience and creative environment. We offer a good Production Assistant fitting & correcting garments, ordering and success in developing programs is Designer starting salary and benefits package plus Leading apparel mfg. co. is seeking a all samples, and communicating details Seeking the Best in Class!!! necessary. Please Fax resume in confi- an excellent opportunity for corporate production assistant that is good with to factories. Fax resumes: 212-768-8811 Unique opportunity to join a team of Sales dence to: 212-575-2660 Want to Come growth. Qualified candidates should details, has good communication skills Pros at a flagship Madison Ave., Short Hills, fax or mail resumes to: and works well in a busy environment. NJ, East Hills, LI, locations. 3+ years of Cool Hunting? Requirements are: Enter bill of materials Warehouse luxury sales exp. req’d. with polished Cool Hunting -anexplosive Junior DEPT. JD/Human Resources and cutting tickets, order accessories; presentation/exceptional communication Sales Pro - Sunglasses and 4-14 firm wants a motivated, FAX: (718) 349-4424 create and maintain value statements, Manager skills and proven track record. Strong Branded Sunglass co. seeks motivated, dynamic designer to merchandise and and communicate with plant personnel. Fast paced accessory co. seeks addi- client following a must. Excellent benefits energetic, exp’d sales professional. execute trend intensive sportswear JACMEL Jewelry AS400, Excel, MS Word. tional experienced manager for pick/ package & high income earning potential Please fax resumes to (212) 629-9191 line. Strong organizational, presenta- 30-00 47th Ave, LIC, NY 11101 Fax resume w/salary requirement pack, receiving & inventory operation. available. Cosmetic or fashion exp. is a Independent Sales Reps welcome! tion and follow up skills a must. Thor- Equal Opportunity Employer M/F to HR: 212-684-3295 MUST BE HANDS ON Ft. Lee NJ +++++ Please send resumes: ough understanding of garment & fabric area. Great salary & benefits. Work Attn: Theresa @ Fax: (212) 244-4560 construction, screen and embroidery hard and make more than you ever techniques. Photoshop and Illustrator Production Assistant have. EXCELLENT OPPORTUNITY!!! Major apparel company is looking for Sales/Sales Assistant knowledge desired. Please forward re- LICENSE Fax (201) 840-9689 Moderate to better career & casual Sports- sume to: [email protected] individual with 2-3 years production Manufacturing Sales Reps COORDINATOR experience. Candidate must be detail Warehouse Supervisor USA TERRITORIES OPEN wear. Seeking individual to manage & oriented and have excellent communi- 55 yr old converter of prints on cotton grow existing accounts. Must have effi- Accessory Co. seeking professional in- Growing NYC apparel co. seeks hands- sheeting, polar fleece, & flannel seeking cient computer skills, be detail oriented, dividual to coordinate licensor appro- cation skills. Strong Excel skills is a on individual to coordinate receiving, EDI Specialist must. Fax resume 212-239-2766 Manufacturing Sales Reps. Following and have proven track record references. Responsible person with extensive val forms for 15+ properties. Data en- pick and pack, shipping, and routing. in Uniforms, Ladies & Children’s Apparel, 3-5 yrs. exp. Fax res./sal.: 212-382-2058 UPS and EDI. Benefits w/ oppty for ad- knowledge of all aspects of EDI trans- try, MS skills, Benefits. Please email PRODUCTION & Accessories & other product categories. actions and UPC code; Working with resume to [email protected] vancement. Reply to: Fax: 212-354- E-mail: [email protected] the traffic dept to follow up shipment Assistant Production 7634/email [email protected] (Only manufacturing reps need apply) status. Must be a team player. Marker/ Grader $45-$53K. Current exp Fax resume to 212-279-9888 Coordinator w/ ACCUMARK req’d. Lg Weschester NY based importer seeks a production company. Excel benefits. Call 973-564- coordinator with 1-2 years experience. 9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy Working with sales, designers and com- Graphic Artist municate with overseas on daily basis. MUST BE ABLE TO DRAW CUTE, Merchandiser $100-$150. Current exp. in English & Chinese preferred. Detail CARTOON-LIKE CHARACTERS...! women’s or mens or kids outerwear req’d. oriented with computer knowledge. Children’s Sleepwear Co. seeks someone Do 1st protos, counter-sourcing fabrics, Please fax resume to 212-869-3179 w/excellent drawing skills and a strong follow-up flow charts. Assist sales dept. E-mail to [email protected] knowledge of Photoshop/Illustrator. Fax Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy resume/salary requirements: 212-202-4396 Athletic Footwear & Apparel Production Assistant California Mfr. seeks exp’d. Salespersons MERCHANDISER/SENIOR Seeking candidate w/ min 3 yrs exp with w/strong relationships w/current buyers Import Administrative For fashion and bridal jewelry. sports wear import. Person is responsible at Major Athletic Chain or Dept./Specialty Extensive design & buyer backgrnd, for follow up communications, costing, Stores. Please Fax or E-mail resume to: Assistant knowl of overseas sourcing req’d. specs, quality, daily communication with 310-815-4720 / [email protected] Major apparel company is looking for [email protected] 212-564-6559 Hong Kong/China factories. Must know an individual to work in the import outlook, excel and word. Designer Inspired department handling various adminis- Email resume to: [email protected] trative duties. Responsibilities include Operations Mgr. To $110K High-End Fashion Jewelry document tracking, date entry and T&A calendars, QA costing PT Independent distributor wanted. filing. Import background is a plus. & compliance issues. Production High comm., work from home, no quotas Must have excellent Excel skills. Allen Platt *Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 required. Call Pam @ (201) 867-6687 Fax resume 212-239-2766. [email protected] Coordinator Follow up with production, work with Lourgnette Jewelry Line IMPORTS IMMED designs and communicate with over- seas offices. Track approval process Est’d. Eyewear Co. seeks motivated Inde- PRODUCTION Order Entry pendent Reps for exciting new Lourgnette START-FINISH, CHINESE A+ ROOM FOR GROWTH ! from color to finished garments; Must be detail oriented and have 3-5 yrs exp Jewelry Line targeting Accessory & $90,000 Ladies’ Wear Co. seeks P/T individual Specialty Stores. Many territories avail- [email protected] with background in RetailLink/CTL. in Far East production. Fax resume to 212-279-9888 able. Please send all resumes, including E-mail: [email protected] current lines, to: 856-662-9587