LVMH UPS FENDI STAKE/2 PACSUN RIDES THE PROFIT WAVE/2 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • May 13, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 98 $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Black Beauty NEW YORK — With images like Marlon Brando in “The Wild Ones,” Joan Jett onstage or the young Madonna in a Herb Ritts photograph, the appeal of black leather has staying power. Fashionistas may talk brights, but they love black, and this season’s suede and leather options are irresistible. Here, a case in point: Siena Studio’s side-laced top with Ellus Edition’s cotton denim jeans at Showroom Seven. Belt from Trash and Vaudeville; J. Mendel gloves. For more, see pages 6 and 7. ICS AT JUMP; ICS STYLED BOBBI BY AT QUEEN AND BROOKE MAGNAGHI

U.K. Retail in Play: Selfridges OKs Weston’s $1.14 Billion Offer By Samantha Conti Weston’s company Oxford And Selfridges wasn’t the only LONDON — Canadian billionaire Galen Acquisitions Ltd., valuing the department store attracting interest Weston is poised to add another department store chain at Monday. In a further heating up of jewel to his retail crown: Selfridges. approximately $965 million. In takeover activity in the once- On Monday, the board of Selfridges addition, OAL plans to assume maligned sector, Debenhams plc said formally recommended an offer by Selfridges’ net debt of $49 million. See Weston, Page 11 PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: KATERENA ALKHIMIVA/FORD; HAIR: CRYSTAL GERARD AT BUMBLE AND GERARD PHOTO BUMBLE; AT ALKHIMIVA/FORD; ERICKSEN; KYLE HAIR: BY MAKEUP: MODEL: CRYSTAL MIZU KATERENA FOR REAL COSMET 2 LVMH Reveals 84.1% Stake in Fendi WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles PARIS — LVMH Moët Hennessy According to Antoine Belge, Louis Vuitton continues to buy Bernard luxury analyst at HSBC in Paris, Arnault GENERAL and sell — albeit quietly. the overall price paid values Designers’ endless affection for black leather is now featuring edgy punk or For example, the French luxu- Fendi at around $1.32 billion to Goth looks, a motorcycle mood, or simply a dominatrix-inspired tale. ry giant upped its stake in Fendi $1.55 billion. In a research note, 6 to 84.1 percent in the first quarter he said the high price poses “a Selfridges’ board formally recommended an offer by Canadian billionaire of the year, according to a recent difficult challenge” in terms of 1 Galen Weston, valuing the British chain at approximately $965 million. statutory filing with Balo, value creation, but gives LVMH LVMH continues to buy and sell — albeit quietly — and has upped its stake WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 13, 2003 WWD, TUESDAY, France’s official government pub- “almost total freedom in the im- in Fendi to 84.1 percent, according to an official French statutory filing. lication of record. plementation of its rejuvenation 2 The filing says LVMH paid strategy.” Stores dusted themselves off after reporting a rough April last week and $218.5 million for the additional The same Balo filing also de- 2 said so far May has been, more or less, on plan. 17.2 percent stake in Fendi. It is tails other transactions. Benefiting from sales of female apparel and accessories, Pacific Sunwear believed that Carla Fendi, presi- It said LVMH netted $13.9 mil- of California reported first-quarter income swelled 144.5 percent. dent and head of communica- lion for the sale of its one-third 2 tions, is the only member of the stake in Michael Kors LLC. Silas EYE: Seventies TV characters go party hopping in San Francisco…Meet founding family retaining shares. Chou and Lawrence Stroll, 4 Miss Moss, the latest from Down Under. In total, LVMH paid $1.11 billion through their company Sports- to acquire the 84.1 percent stake. wear Holdings Limited, conclud- Classified Advertisements ...... 14-15 Dollar figures are converted from ed separate deals in January to To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is euros at current exchange rates. acquire a controlling stake in [email protected], using the individual's name. LVMH and Prada Group jointly Kors, as reported. acquired 51 percent of the Rome- LVMH also spent $32.5 million SUBSCRIPTION RATES U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. based leather goods and fashion to increase its stake to 97 per- All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. house in 1999. LVMH bought cent, from 45 percent, in the Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 Prada’s stake in November 2001, Italian shoemaker Rossimoda Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. and the 15.9 percent stake held SpA, and it sold for a symbolic $1 WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. by Franca Fendi last July. its remaining 27.5 percent stake a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. Fendi officials could not be in art auctioneer Phillips. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. reached for comment. — Miles Socha No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 Printed in the U.S.A. All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of May Starts Hopeful at Retail WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com.

By Evan Clark et each rose, with the latter ment stores sales for the second making up a bit more of the week of its fiscal month tracked NEW YORK — Stores dusted comp increase. toward the expected 2 to 3 per- In Brief themselves off after reporting a Target Corp. said it was on cent comp increase in May. rough April last week and said track to meet its plan, calling for Taken together, the first two May has been, more or less, on a flat to up 2 percent comp at its weeks of the month tracked UNITED COLORS OF PROFIT: Benetton said cost-cutting and plan. discount stores in May. The total ahead of plan. its decision to sell its money-losing sporting goods business lift- Sales last week in Wal-Mart corporation is expected to lag ShopKo Stores Inc. said comps ed its first-quarter net profit 28.9 percent to $28.8 million from Stores Inc.’s U.S. operations the lead division by a percentage for the first week of the month $21.9 million. Sales fell 0.7 percent to $512.2 million from $515.6 tracked in line with the firm’s point. Weakest merchandise cat- came in below the May plan for a million. The company said sales from its casual-clothing busi- planned 1 to 3 percent compa- egories at the discount stores last low-single-digit decline. ness in the first three months of the year, excluding currency im- rable-store gain for May. Ap- week included men’s apparel, In other Target news, the firm pact, rose 3.8 percent to 351 million euros, which at Monday’s parel was among the weakest jewelry and accessories and inti- said it plans to drop paid vaca- historically high exchange rate of $1.16 per euro translated to merchandise categories of the mate apparel. tion and healthcare coverage for $405.7 million. Benetton wrote down the value of its sporting week. Traffic and average tick- J.C. Penney Co. said depart- Continued on page 12 goods business last year, forcing it to post a full-year loss. Benetton has sealed deals to sell all of its sports brands, includ- ing Rollerblade, Prince and Nordica.

UNITE, BRYLANE INK DEAL: UNITE and Brylane LP said Monday they had reached a three-year contract for employees at PacSun Profits Shine in Quarter the catalog retailer’s Indianapolis distribution center. The agreement calls for a 9 percent wage increase over its term and By Jennifer Weitzman “We made great progress in The company, which operates includes a “strong benefit package” according to a joint state- our operations,” Greg Weaver, 808 stores under the PacSun and ment from the union and the company. This comes a little more NEW YORK — Benefiting from chairman and chief executive, Demo nameplates, said it will than three months after the roughly more than 700 workers at sales in its female apparel and said on a conference call. “Both continue to aggressively grow its the facility voted in favor of the union. That vote followed a 15- accessories businesses, Pacific concepts posted comp increases girls’ division, noting that the month organizing campaign in which the union targeted Brylane Sunwear of California turned in all key categories.” unit comprised 48 percent of and other fashion companies in which Brylane’s parent, Pinault- up the teen heat as first-quarter In advance of the results, overall apparel sales in the first Printemps-Redoute, holds an ownership position. income swelled 144.5 percent. which came after the markets quarter, compared with 45 per- The Anaheim, Calif.-based closed on Monday, investors sent cent in the fourth quarter. It also GETTING FIT: French retail giant Pinault-Printemps-Redoute sun-and-sand-oriented teen re- PacSun’s stock to a new 52-week said it anticipates the figure to said Monday it would fund a $460 million capital increase for tailer said late Monday that for high. Shares rose $1, or 4.1 per- grow to 50 percent in 2003. Rexel, its electronics parts subsidiary, to strengthen the group’s the three months ended May 3, cent, to close Monday at $24.34 Timothy Harmon, president profits and market position. Dollar figures are converted from net income rose to $8 million, or after hitting $24.45 in intraday and chief merchandising officer, euros at current exchange. The capital increase is viewed as an- 16 cents a diluted share, 2 cents trading. The previous high was said although screen-printed T- other step in PPR’s plans to shed its business-to-business activi- ahead of Wall Street’s average $23.99, reached on May 8. shirts and bottoms are perform- ties to focus on retail and luxury. However, it set no timetable to estimates. In last year’s quarter, Specifically at PacSun, fe- ing well in the female arena, he sell Rexel. Last week, PPR said it would sell three companies the retailer’s profits were $3.3 male apparel continued its sees growth opportunity in cut specializing in the distribution of electronic security equipment. million, or 7 cents. Total sales surge with comps in the “strong and sewn tops, including knits, It has already shed its Guilbert office supplies division, Pinault for the quarter surged 22.6 per- double-digit” range. Footwear wovens and sweaters. Boix & Materiaux wood and construction supplies division and cent to $198.3 million over was up in the low-double digits, PacSun is one of only a few Finaref and Facet consumer credit units. PPR controls 63.28 $161.7 million, while overall accessories in the mid-teens teen retailers enjoying rapid percent of Italy’s Gucci group and is committed to buying all comps increased 13.2 percent. and men’s was slightly positive. growth at the moment. And Gucci shares it doesn’t own next spring. while the spring/summer season usually brings the surf look to the windows of its teen peers, WWDStock Market Index for May 12 company executives said its suc- cess selling the beach look, even Composite: 109.23 Broadline Stores: 111.32 Softline Stores: 104.12 during the back-to-school and holiday selling seasons, only validates its product offerings. Its Demo division delivered a 36.5 percent increase in its 1.92 2.03 3.61 comps during the quarter, caus- ing the firm to rethink its Vendors: 105.69 Textiles: 109.80 growth plan. Weaver said he be- Index base of 100 is lieves that 200 doors by the end keyed to closing prices of 2005, as opposed to the 109 of Dec. 31, 2002. currently in operation, is a con- 0.43 2.04 servative target for the unit. 3 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 13, 2003 , and Sophia really ’ turn to Giancarlo Rankin Waddell and Meg Mathews , , . had no doubts about her sung the praises of many Zandra Rhodes In a statement. Kahn said, In Delia’s February, received Still, a luxury store along this Clearly, the new designer and Two more Cerruti stores are And while there might have been While fashion types including Thursday night, it was fellow firm additional time to negotiate optimal terms for the distribution facility without risking either au- ditor qualification or lateness in the 10-K, several sources familiar with the arrangements said. “While the environment remains challenging, we feel we’ve made significant strides along the path to recovery and are looking for- ward to demonstrating much im- proved second-half performance.” $16.5 million in cash against fu- ture royalties to be gleaned from the licensing of its name to JLP Daisy LLC, an Schottenstein Stores Corp. Peter affiliate of J. Solomon Co. has been working with the multichannel tween re- originally tailer, a direct mar- to help keter, extract it from a se- ries of problems that have beset it since its foray into traditional stores. As reported, it lost $34.4 million on sales of $137.6 million 1. during the year ended Feb. commercial reasons, but much more to have a point of reference crowd.” for the Hollywood famous shopping street can bring in an estimated $800 to $1,000 a square foot. “If you’re Christian Dior or Prada, you’re doing extremely well, not so much if you’re a minor player,” observed Gilbert Dembo, presi- dent of Dembo & Associates, a local upscale commercial real estate agency that recently rep- resented Brooks Bros. for its deal in the neighborhood. store are a move to raise Cerruti’s role around town. Caccialupi, who arrived Saturday for the opening, made the trip to show his support for Cardona. “The really space big, isn’t but we see it as our first step,” the ceo said. “If the response is right, then we can find a larger shop later.” slated to open by year’s end, in and Moscow. Paris Giammetti a dress in the exhibition, Kokosalaki mine of course. favorite one. “Well, Why would I mention someone she asked. else’s?” 70 dresses in the exhibition, Princess Michael of Kent wanted a different article of clothing. “Put down your coats!” she told photographers as she prepared to step over a tiny puddle outside the party entrance. shine. The pink-haired one celebrated the opening of her Museum with Fashion and Textile an exhibition called “My Favourite Dress,” featuring — yes! — designers’ best-loved frocks. Julien Macdonald Theron, who is in London until the end of May filming “The Life and Death of Peter Sellers,” wore a leather and chiffon belted black dress by McQueen. Other guests at the Bond Street opening included Sam Taylor-Wood Annabel Neilson Isabella Blow designer , , are Jamie and and Tony Danza Tony Kelsey Marvin Alexander , Steve Charlize Theron Kenny Rickles “Oh my! Is it really and ’ Beverly Hills estate, Tom Arnold Tom . The benefit, which raised ’s $195 Kingdom fragrance ’s , . The next night, Davis As reported, Delia’s said last Beyond the storefront is a fea- Which is why the store is “part Hotel, featuring entertainment by and Motown greats The Four Tops Eric Benet $2.3 million for the Nancy Davis bringing the Walls, Center Without total raised for multiple sclerosis research to $20 million in 10 years, drew loyal supporters Grammar Anjelica Huston Tisch celebrated her 44th birthday with a dinner at her parents Barbara Davis The Knoll, and she announced that she and husband expecting their first child (Davis has three boys from a previous marriage), a girl named Isabella, on Thanksgiving Day. fittingly, REALITY CHECK: that much?” said eyeballing a bottle of McQueen at the opening of his London night. “It might flagship Wednesday be worth it — I haven’t tried it yet.” change Commission with a quali- fication from its auditors, Delia’s said it had received a standby commitment from the same four investors under which they would purchase the firm’s Hanover, Pa., distribution center if the firm is unable to refinance or extend the $2.9 million mortgage on the facil- ity or execute a sale-leaseback arrangement prior to the mort- gage’s maturity on Aug. 6. The firm issued warrants to the in- vestors allowing them to pur- chase a total of 600,000 of Delia’s stock at 37 cents a share should such a situation unfold. Friday that it was working to se- cure financing that would enable it to file its annual report with the SEC without any qualifica- tion from its auditors. The Form 10-K was originally due to be filed with the SEC by April 30 and, after extending the dead- line, is now due this The Friday. standby agreement will allow the floor-to-ceiling mirror measur- ing 12 feet. Down the middle, display cases made by B&B Italia, filled with accessories and sweaters, are of a rich- brown African wengé wood and nod to Japanese and Art Deco streamlining and construction. ture in any Rodeo Drive shop worth its salt: a private VIP room. Here, celebrities can be outfitted for the red carpet, stylists can pick through current collections for their clients, and costume de- signers can identify looks to in- clude in TV and film wardrobes. Although Cerruti’s memorable cinema credits go back three decades (“Bonnie and Clyde,” “Pretty Woman,” and “Philadel- phia”), the competition among fashion houses to dress actors on and off screen has only gotten fiercer in recent years. of Cerruti’s strategy of communi- cation,” said its ceo, Massimo Caccialupi. “It is not so much for , who ’s — ’s and . , the . On Dorothy Valentino Cerruti takes Giancarlo Crown Princess Prince Kyril of showed up, too, to It was a big Shares of Delia’s , Various crowned Various Nancy Davis Elizabeth Hurley Tommy Hilfiger Tommy and ’s mega-flat in London’s ’s Crown Prince Haakon of Gloria von Thurn und Taxis , , Alexandra von Furstenberg Stephen Kahn, chief execu- vice Christopher chair- Edgar, Alleviating other concerns that It’s also the first public turn 1,000-square-foot The narrow, Opposite the front door is a and royals Tabloid Pavlos of Greece Bulgaria Norway THE BIG NIGHT: heads and blue bloods of Europe turned out in force for don’t ask the age — birthday party on Sunday night at Giammetti Cadogan Square. Guests included Crown Prince Elle Macpherson sing and wish a happy birthday to Val along with R&B crooner was performing. The flat was festooned with silver balloons, and guests dined on pasta and fresh mozzarella flown in for the bash. NANCY’S NIGHT: weekend for Los Angeles philanthropist Friday night, the charity event she founded with Race to Erase MS, celebrated its 10th anniversary at Century Plaza Fashion Scoops Fashion By Arnold J. Karr J. Arnold By NEW YORK — Corp. spiked sharply upward Monday after the firm nounced that a an- $2.7 million eq- uity investment by its manage- ment would allow it to file its annual report on time and with- out auditor qualification. tive officer, and three others ac- quired about 7.3 million new shares of Delia’s for 37 cents a share, 1 cent above clos- Friday’s ing price. In Nasdaq trading Delia’s Monday, shares picked up 13 cents, or 36.1 percent, to end the session at 49 cents, their highest closing price since Jan. 8. man; Evan Guillemin, chief fi- nancial and officer, Geraldine also director, Karetsky, partici- pated in the cash infusion. might cause it to file its annual re- port to the Securities and Ex- Delia’s Receives Cash Infusion Cash Receives Delia’s Cerruti’s Hollywood Moves Cerruti’s Hollywood Jones Apodaca Rose By BEVERLY HILLS — its next step toward securing its Hollywood presence with a celeb- rity-attended opening tonight at Drive flagship. its new Rodeo for the Italian house’s new chief women’s wear designer, Los Angeles-based David Cardona, who will be acting as host to con- firmed guests, including actors Kelly Lynch, Alec Baldwin and Rosanna Arquette. (The event benefits OPCC, a network of shel- ters and services for low-income families and youths, and women and who are battered or homeless mentally ill.) unit at 449 North Rodeo Drive, is a study in compact minimal- ism (selling space and changing rooms are in 800 square feet) and a continuation of interior themes found throughout most of the company’s 220 stores. Cate Blanchett —Vicki M. Young M. —Vicki — Lisa Lockwood Lisa — Court documents alleged that Girl Mania is seeking $10 mil- Officials at Wet Seal did not Considered a style icon, Blan- “It’s very important for me, in sell apparel and accessories to preteen girls. after she started her employment with Zutopia, Girl Mania began noticing changes to Zutopia stores, including changes in floor design, window displays and col- ors that were similar to Girl Mania’s look. Other changes in- cluded a heart logo that was simi- lar to Girl Mania’s, as well as giv- ing away seasonal promotional gifts, do-it-yourself makeup sta- tions and catwalks in the stores. The lawsuit asserted that as a consultant, O’Toole was “privy to all of Girl Mania’s proprietary in- formation, including but not lim- ited to information concerning marketing strategies, market tests, business procedure and techniques, purchasing history, pricing information….” lion in exemplary and punitive damages and a preliminary in- junction. return calls for comment by press time. chett’s dresses for her red carpet moments have run the gamut from Christian Dior and Valen- tino to Tom Yves Ford’s Saint Laurent, Jean Paul Gaultier and Wang. Vera the context of ‘woman to woman,’ to go beyond a woman’s outer said beauty,” Karan. “It’s not about the clothes. She represents a sense of modernity and a time- lessness. For me, it’s more than just a person, it’s a personal con- nection. I’m looking forward to meeting her.” Girl Mania Inc. It’s shaping up to

“There’s an exoticism about Last week, the firm filed a $10 Girl Mania said in court pa- Zutopia and Girl Mania both The Australian actress, who Blanchett joins other celebri- Blanchett is the latest in a “When people say, ‘Who Cate Blanchett has signed on thinks that Susan O’Toole took more than fond memories with her when she left the firm for a Seal last year. job at Wet million lawsuit against Wet Seal Inc. and Zutopia for trade dress infringement and unfair competi- tion and, alleging breach of con- tract and misappropriation of trade secrets, also named O’Toole as a defendant. The lawsuit was filed on in Friday federal district court in Santa Ana, Calif. pers that it hired O’Toole in July 2000 as a consultant to help launch a new retail concept under the Girl Mania nameplate in Newport November 2001. The Beach employment around included a confidentiality and nondisclosure agreement. Wet Seal acquired the Zutopia brand name in 2001. O’Toole, the law- suit said, left Girl Mania in April 2002 to become president of Wet Seal’s Zutopia division. She be- came president of the Wet Seal division four months later. Against Wet Seal, O’Toole Seal, Wet Against NEW YORK — Girl Mania Files Lawsuit Files Mania Girl as the new face of Donna Karan Collection and will appear for the next three seasons in the company’s ad campaigns. The first fall ads tographed will later this month by be pho- Mikael Jansson. The campaign will be created by Laird + Part- ad agency. ners, Karan’s turns 34 on Wednesday, has starred in such films as “Eliza- beth,” “The Gift,” “Bandits,” “The Talented Mr. Ripley,” Shipping News,” and “Lord “The of the Towers.” Rings: The Two ty models this fall, including Christina Aguilera, who will star in Versace’s ad campaign; Jen- nifer Lopez, who was and tographed for Louis Vuitton, pho- Adrien Brody, who will appear exclusively in Ermenegildo Zegna this fall after appearing with others this spring. string of actors Karan has used in campaigns, including Jeremy Irons, Iman and Milla Jovovich. would you like to dress?’ Cate was definitely on my top three,” said Donna Karan on Monday. She declined to divulge the other two. Although the two women haven’t met yet, Karan said she admires Blanchett’s “intelligence and womanliness.” her. She’s intriguing and modern at the same time,” said Karan, who believes Blanchett is a natu- ral for her fall collection, which leaned toward seductive suits, racy little dresses and body-con- scious gowns. The contract calls for Blanchett to be photographed for the ads, but she be won’t mak- ing personal appearances on be- half of the company. In Karan’s New Ads Ads New Karan’s In NEW YORK — fall. be a star-studded Cate Blanchett Stars Blanchett Cate 4 Jessy Moss onstage Party Traina in Los Angeles.

Leave it to Trevor Traina to keep San Francisco’s young and beautiful set on

D, TUESDAY, MAY 13, 2003 D, TUESDAY, its toes. For his 35th eye® W birthday bash on Saturday

W at North Beach’s Broadway Studios, Traina instructed his guests to come dressed as Seventies TV characters — and almost everyone heeded the dress code. The birthday boy arrived as “Fantasy Island” honcho Mr. Roarke, Leslie accompanied by a Tattoo-like sidekick and he flew in from L.A. The impersonator Dean Fox (who wore Herve Villechaize’s as the original suit) wasn’t the only prop Captain flown in — the original dance floor and from “Saturday Night Fever,” on loan Tennille. from the Hollywood set of the “Starsky and Hutch” remake, was the other Seventies relic on hand. Buoyed on by the hired “Solid Gold” dancers, guests Sarah Shaw — including Todd Traina and fiancée as Chrissy Katie Orr (as “Bewitched” couple Darrin and Samantha), the Swanson Snow. sisters Alexis, Veronica and Claybourne (as Charlie’s Angels), Billy Alexis, and Vanessa Getty (as Ginger of Veronica “Gilligan’s Island” and an overly tall and Tattoo), and Cecilia DeQuesada (as Claybourne Wonder Woman) — weren’t shy about Swanson getting down. Even Kimberly Newsom, as Charlie's who arrived in her everyday wear Angels. with husband and mayoral candidate Gavin citing “several campaign functions earlier” that made it Meet Miss Moss impossible to dress up, couldn’t resist LOS ANGELES — Watch out Nicole! Jessy Moss is the latest tall, talented grooving to Donna Summer. import from Down Under — and the alluring 24-year-old singer has the Over in “The Love Boat”-themed throaty pipes to prove it. Her debut from Dreamworks Records, “Street room, Michael J. Fox chatted with a Knuckles,” on sale July 29, features a slew of soulful ballads and beats pack of Marcia Brady and Daisy Duke inspired by an array of artists from Nina Simone and Miles Davis to the Pixies look-alikes, while in the “I Dream of and Sonic Youth to The Beastie Boys and Wu-Tang Clan. While Moss Jeannie” room, Vanessa Getty sank performed at Hollywood’s Knitting Factory recently, she channeled both the into one of the pink and purple satin serpentine Gwen Stefani and the square-stanced Dr. Dre in the space of one couches. “The wig was about all I Trevor Traina as song. could manage at six months Mr. Roarke with a Not surprisingly, Moss says her album’s title has several meanings. First, pregnant,” she said, although she also hired Tattoo. there are the tattoos on each of her knuckles, but Moss had her share of squeezed into a custom-made white actual fights growing up in the hippie surf town of Byron Bay, on Australia’s jersey dress. easternmost coast. The album, which details holdups and remembers ranting Meanwhile, her husband marveled landlords and wayward boyfriends, is a quasi-confessional-narrative. “Pretty at the fabric content of his white duds, much the whole record is autobiographical,” says Moss. “Who would want to which he and Traina rented at a tux take away the hardships? Without ’em, it would all be so sh-t boring.” shop popular with prom-bound Moss worked her share of minimum-wage jobs, including stints as a teenagers. “I think this is what they call sheep shearer back home and a music festival trash collector in England merino-weight polyester,” Getty joked. before promoting hip-hop clubs in Sydney and landing a recording studio “They actually asked me if I was internship that brought her to Los Angeles. “I bugged the sound engineer going to a prom,” added Traina. “The until he finally taught me what he was doing,” she says. “I then went on tour white suit I owned was too nice, so I with the Long Beach Dub Allstars as their sound engineer, and I used my had to rent one that was downtime to record the base tracks to my album.” M; MOSS IN CONCERT BY DONATO SARDELLA; MOSS PORTRAIT KAI REGAN FOR DREAMWORKS RECORDS; TRAINA PARTY BY KRISTEN LOKEN KRISTEN BY PARTY TRAINA RECORDS; DREAMWORKS FOR REGAN KAI SARDELLA;PORTRAIT MOSS DONATO BY CONCERT IN MOSS M; appropriately tacky.” Currently living in Long Beach, 30 minutes south of Los Angeles, Moss The party didn’t die down until Todd Traina manages to maintain her laid-back lifestyle, which is reflected by her well after 2 a.m., when the guests and Katie Orr fashion. “I'm pretty comfortable in a tank top and jeans when left to my own were finally shooed out, happily as Darrin and devices. I'm not a big fashionada,” she says, offering her interpretation of the clutching their party favor — a pet Samantha of word for fashionista. “Maybe we’ll get there one day.” rock, of course. “Bewitched.” — Marcy Medina

Ivana Rhona Milicevic Mitra in in Gucci. an Elisa Spin Cycle Jimenez dress Hollywood showed its fashionable allegiances Thursday night at and a flurry of stylish soirees. First at Ralph Lauren’s Rodeo Drive vintage boutique, where Step Up Women’s Network and Vanity Fair hosted a girlie fall preview, prepsters Jessica Capshaw, Jessica jacket Alba and Sarah Foster searched for merch. “I’m all Polo-ed out at Gucci. tonight,” announced Capshaw, making her only stop for the evening. Kirsty Hume and Downstairs, the other Jessica — Alba — tried to shake her Donovan Leitch tomboy image. “I’m usually a jeans and T-shirt girl, but my fi- ancé said it would be nice to see me in a dress once in a while,” Kelly Jessica she sighed. Lynch Capshaw After clinking champagne glasses with the Ralph Lauren set, at inin RalphRalph Jamie Tisch and Ivana Milicevic pulled a U-turn and Milicevic Gucci. Lauren. proved herself a full-throttle fashionista. “I changed from a Ralph top into a Gucci top in the car,” she said as they arrived at Gucci, across the street. “I hope I put it on correctly.” A similarly sleek-looking crowd, including Shiva Rose McDermott, Ryan Haddon and Claire Forlani, were there to meet Sarah the duo and to celebrate AIDS Project Los Angeles’ 20th an- Foster in niversary. Meanwhile, mere blocks away, the vintage-clad crowd Ralph — Jacqui Getty, Donovan Leitch, Kirsty Hume and China Chow — Lauren. toasted the opening of Gina Shoes’ first L.A. store with martinis. Lauren. RALPH LAUREN AND GUCCI PARTIES BY TYLER BOYE; FOSTER BY ALBERTO RODRIGUEZ/BEIMAGES; HUME AND LEITCH BY CHRIS WEEKS/FILMMAGIC.CO CHRIS BY LEITCH AND HUME RODRIGUEZ/BEIMAGES; ALBERTO BY FOSTER BOYE; TYLER BY PARTIES GUCCI AND LAUREN RALPH 5 WWD, TUESDAY,WWD, 2003 13, MAY managements under the holding company Millennium Retailing as Two months ago, he sold 2.23 million shares of the company for of June 1 in order to cut costs. The marriage will result in Japan’s $2.7 million. second-largest department store group with sales of more than Similarly, major shareholders in Yue Yuen Industrial Holdings, ASIA WATCH $8.6 billion. The largest group is Takashimaya, which generated the giant contract footwear maker, placed 40 million existing $10.3 billion in consolidated sales for the fiscal year ended Feb. shares with institutional investors last week. The placement was 28. Dollar figures were converted at current exchange rates. an effort to take advantage of the company’s upcoming entry in SEGREGATING SARS: Jewelry manufacturers in countries with The Millennium Retailing Group will have about 30 stores. Morgan Stanley Capital International’s Hong Kong index. outbreaks of SARS are once again being targeted by Sogo went bankrupt in 2000 with debts of $16.1 billion and The 40 million shares account for about 2.5 percent of the international exhibition organizers. Citing worries over the spread is in the process of regenerating its business under the company’s existing share capital. About 30 million of the of SARS, organizers of the JCK Show in Las Vegas ordered that protection of bankruptcy law. shares were sold by the Tsai family, the single second-largest exhibitors from countries with SARS outbreaks would be Seibu Department Store, the core retailer of the Saison Group company shareholder. — C.H.K. required to show in a venue separate from the main hall. that has been struggling with huge losses for 10 years, announced The Hong Kong Jewelry Manufacturers’ Association (HKJMA) expanded net losses from the previous year's $92.8 million to $2.1 FULLER FIBERS: Mitsubishi Rayon Co. Ltd. last month acquired reacted with outrage to the demand, as did Henry Tang, billion for the fiscal year ended Feb. 28, while its operating profits the proprietary technology relating to acrylic filaments belonging commerce, industry and technology secretary for Hong Kong. Said dropped 23.5 percent to $83.8 million. Sales were down 3.5 to Asahi Kasei Corp., in addition to a portion of Asahi Kasei's Tang, “We think this is unnecessary as well as unreasonable.” percent to $4.6 billion. The extraordinary losses included a production facilities for the filaments. An agreement also has About 112 Hong Kong companies were originally slated to attend provision for losses from its restructuring plan of $1.9 billion. been reached to acquire Asahi Kasei's related trademark rights the show, which runs from May 30 to June 3. Patrick Luk, chairman In January, Seibu gathered 43 creditors to explain its for Pewlong, Tactus and Reecas, effective in July. of HKJMA, warned that Hong Kong might pull out of the show restructuring plan and in February all the creditors agreed to the Mitsubishi Rayon is the largest manufacturer of acrylic completely if not enough exhibitors agreed to the organizer’s demand. plan. — Koji Hirano products in Japan, ranging from wet- and dry-spun staple As of May 9, however, 71 companies had agreed to the terms, while through filament to synthetic leather. It is currently 40 firms withdrew from the event and will be reimbursed. SNAPPING UP LACOSTE: Marubeni Corp., a major Japanese constructing a production plant at Ningbo in China’s Zhejiang Those Hong Kong companies that do attend will be isolated trading firm, is buying into the French sports casualwear brand Province, scheduled to start operation in July 2005. in a tent in the event’s car park. Under the terms, attendees of Lacoste in Japan. As part of a reorganization of its fiber operations, Asahi Kasei from Hong Kong, Singapore and Canada will also have to arrive Marubeni said it has purchased a 33.4 percent stake in withdrew from manufacturing acrylic filaments at the end of 10 days before the show and undergo health checks. Fabricant Co., a Japanese agent that owns manufacturing and March, leaving Mitsubishi Rayon as the world's sole producer, The JCK Show upheaval follows last week’s turmoil over sales rights for Lacoste branded apparel in Japan, from Seibu according to Mitsubishi Rayon. "The acquisition of the know-how in Vicenzaoro2 at the Vincenza Fair in Italy June 7-12. Hong Department Stores Ltd., which had owned 50 percent of question from Asahi Kasei will enable Mitsubishi Rayon to more Kong’s exhibitors were forced to pull out of that jewelry show Fabricant’s equity. Seibu is selling the remaining 16.4 percent firmly reinforce the technology that underpins its acrylic filament when hotel, bus and restaurant operators sent a letter informing to Paris-based Devanlay S.A., which has the worldwide Silpalon, and prepares the way for a full-scale expansion of the them they were not welcome. — Constance Haisma-Kwok manufacturing and sales rights for Lacoste branded apparel. company's acrylic filament business, including the development of The French company already owns slightly more than 50 high-quality, high-performance products with a view to the eventual SLOWER GROWTH: From the impact of SARS, the economic percent of Fabricant’s equity, and the purchase brings Devanlay's construction of additional production facilities," said the firm. growth in the Asia-Pacific region is expected to slow down, part ownership in Fabricant to 66.6 percent. Marubeni said the Mitsubishi Rayon Co. Ltd. reported net profits of $51.7 according to the latest forecast by Asia Development Bank. The company has been supplying polo shirts, T-shirts and other million for the fiscal year ended March 31, against net losses of growth in gross domestic product of the Asian region, not apparel to Fabricant, noting it will provide its support to further $8.3 million a year earlier. Operating profits increased 2.8 including Japan and other industrially advanced countries, is likely promote the Lacoste brand in the Japanese market. percent to $170.3 million, while sales dropped 1.9 percent to to fall by 0.4 percentage point to 5.3 percent from the previous Fabricant's sales, which are mostly to department stores $2.6 billion. All figures were on a consolidated basis and forecast of 5.7 percent made in September last year, ADB said. and boutiques, are expected to reach $75 million in the converted from the yen at current exchange rates. The GDP growth in China is expected to slow to 7.3 current business year to February 2004, Marubeni said. — T.F. Sales from fibers, mainly acrylics, which represents 31.4 percent (compared with 7.5 percent previously predicted); percent of the group, dropped 2.7 percent to $813.5 million. South Korea, 4 percent (5.8 percent); Taiwan 3.7 percent (4 CASHING IN: Major players in Hong Kong’s fashion industry sold their “In the domestic market, demand for the acrylic fibers stayed percent), and Hong Kong 2 percent (3.5 percent), according shares last week. Michael Ying, chief executive of Esprit Holdings, slow and imports of the finished products increased, which to ADB. — Tsukasa Furukawa sold a 3 percent stake in the retailer, netting at least $47.6 million. caused a drop in sales volume,” said the firm. According to a Merrill Lynch memo to brokers, Ying offered For the fiscal year ending March 31, 2004, the firm JOINING FORCES: Seibu Department Stores and Sogo, two retailers 40.5 million shares for between $1.18 and $1.20 each. Prior to projects net profits of $86.2 million, operating profits of that have been experiencing difficulties, will integrate their the placement, Ying owned 42 percent of Esprit Holdings shares. $206.9 million and sales of $2.6 billion dollars. — K.H.

Jill Stuart greets her fans.

Stuart Braves SARS for Asian Show TOKYO — While other industry executives are cancelling their Asian trips because of SARS, Jill Stuart came to Japan earlier this month to hold her first-ever runway shows here. The finale was a show and party for about 3,000 fans held in Garden Hall in the Ebisu neighborhood of Tokyo, where Stuart was surrounded by dancing young Japanese women shooting her and the clothes with their camera-installed cell phones. Stuart’s tour of Japan began April 25, when she arrived with a large mask over her nose and mouth to protect her against SARS. “This event was very important, and I decided to come,” she said on arriving. But Stuart soon removed her mask to rush around Japan. She held fashion shows and parties in Osaka on April 26, and Nagoya on April 28 before arriving in Ebisu Stuart’s first runway on May 2. At the events, “Jill Girls” were se- show in Japan. lected by the designer, and tickets for her fashion show in New York were given to the first-prize winner. At each event, customers presented her with letters and pres- ents. “They are so special to me,” said Stuart. “Having contact with them every year in Japan means a lot.” Her first trip to Japan was six years ago, when the unique fashions of Japanese teenagers quickly caught her eye. “They are very fashion-conscious and good at coordinating items in their own way,” said Stuart. “Actually, their energy fuels and in- spires my design work.” In Japan, apparel maker San-ei International has run the de- signer’s business since the spring-summer 1997 season and now has about 30 shops throughout the country. 6 Tough Love NEW YORK —It’s an enduring story: the one about designers and their endless WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 13, 2003 WWD, TUESDAY, affection for black leather. It might feature edgy punk or Goth looks, a motorcycle mood, or simply be a dominatrix-inspired tale with sizzling hot second-skin shapes. There’s even some room for a more romantic slant on Sixties hippie looks.

Izzy Camilleri’s leather sheath and Christie Martin’s earrings at Showroom Seven; Stewart Weitzman shoes; Wolford tights.

Cotton side-laced tube top from Trash and Vaudeville, by Ellus Limited Edition with Ellus’s side-buckled leather miniskirt and Christie Martin’s pendant from Showroom Seven.

J. Mendel’s reversible napa mink vest with fox trim over Peacewear’s cotton knit tank and Andrew Marc’s leather pants; leather and silver cuff from Ellus Limited Edition; Manolo Blahnik shoes.

LQUEHOUN; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN AND BROOKE MAGANAGHI BROOKE AND QUEEN BOBBI BY STYLED LQUEHOUN; CO LIZ ASSISTANT: PHOTOGRAPHER’S HAUPTMAN; KEREN AND VACCA BROOKE ASSISTANTS: FASHION JUMP; AT COSMETICS REAL FOR MIZU MAKEUP: 7 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 13, 2003 BUMBLE; AND BUMBLE AT GERARD CRYSTAL HAIR: MODELS; SAUM/ID ABIGAIL AND ALKHIMOVA/FORD KATERENA MODELS: ERICKSEN; KYLE BY PHOTOS Maggie Norris’ Maggie over jacket lambskin polyester Capezio’s skirt; Christian Louboutin shoes; fingerless lace gloves from Trash and Vaudeville. The cotton skirt from Margaret loves Peter at Showroom Seven with Peacewear’s cotton knit tank under Black Rivet’s leather and Trash jacket; necklace. Vaudeville

t e k c

a j d

r e e s s b e m r t o s b i

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e s ’ h i t v a e e Levi’s distressed leather bomber jacket over Parkchoonmoo’s shredded tunic in rayon, nylon, polyester and spandex Heptner’sand Roxanne skirt; viscose and spandex tunic and skirt from Showroom Seven; Capezio tights; Christian Dior shoes; J. Mendel belt. over Parkchoonmoo’s shredded tunic in rayon, nylon, polyester and spandex Heptner’sand Roxanne skirt; viscose and spandex tunic and skirt from Showroom Seven; Capezio tights; Christian Dior shoes; J. Mendel belt. L l 8 Ready-to-Wear Report FASHIONABLE CAUSE: Lighthouse International is holding its annual Posh MARKET BASKET Sale on Thursday through Saturday this Brooke week at its offices here at 110 East 60th Street in New York. Lighthouse was Davenport founded in 1905 and is a not-for-profit organization that supports vision in Narciso rehabilitation services, education and research for blind or partially sighted Rodriguez. individuals. Clothes at the sale include new and gently used men’s and women’s clothing from designers including Giorgio Armani, Chanel, Ralph Lauren, Bill Blass, Hermès, Prada, Celine, Burberry and Donna Karan, among others. Admission is $10 per day or $25 for a three-day pass.

BACK-TO-SCHOOL: Evelyn Lauder and Scoop owner Stefani Greenfield will each

WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 13, 2003 WWD, TUESDAY, receive awards from the Laboratory Institute of Merchandise at the college’s commencement ceremony May 28 at the Puck Building. Lauder, senior corporate vice president of The Estée Lauder Cos., will receive the Doctor of Humane Letters Honorary Degree for her work to find a cure for breast cancer and other charitable causes. LIM will bestow the Distinguished Achievement Award to Greenfield, who will also serve as the commencement speaker. “We’re honored to have luminaries of Evelyn Lauder’s and Stefani Greenfield’s caliber at this year’s commencement program,” said Elizabeth Marcuse, LIM president. “Their talent, accomplishments and philanthropic commitments will serve as a standard that this year’s graduating class could aspire to.” The Distinguished Alumni Award will be given to Mark Simonetti who graduated Tiffany from LIM in 1983. He is currently Mullen in vice president of merchandising for Kathlin Roberto Perry Ellis. Cavalli. Argiro’s “Lori” DRESSED TO CUT: New York-based dress designer Kathlin Argiro dress. outfitted seven models in some top-selling spring styles Wednesday at the opening of the Anderson French Salon in the International Flavors & Fragrances building. Argiro also dressed some of the Anderson French staff, bringing the total to about 15 women. The models wore the “Lori” dress, a short, strapless A- line cotton style, which wholesales for about $140. Neiman Marcus stores president and ceo Karen Katz, Zac Posen, Elisa Feldman and Ken Downing of Neiman’s. FASHION LOBBYING: Beautiful architecture in New York’s Garment District is about as common as a rhinestone at Calvin Klein. So when the owners of 530 Seventh Avenue unveiled their newly refurbished lobby late last month after a two- year renovation project, the attention Posen’s Trunk Junket to architectural detail came as a pleasant surprise to tenants. By Holly Haber the designer’s mother and ceo of his 20-month- Returned to its Art Deco old company. “It was his inaugural trunk show splendor, the intricate beige-and- DALLAS — Zac Posen is tired. He arose from a and the response has been so gratifying.” brown Tennessee marble now touts hotel bed at 4:30 a.m. to fly here from San Posen’s close-fitted day suits, fur and leather a highly lustrous polish. There is Francisco, where he spent the previous day items led bookings in both cities. The designer also new lighting, a new revolving helping Neiman Marcus shoppers at his first was surprised that some of the bestsellers had door and new concierge desk. trunk show. not been shown on the runway, such as a pieced According to Kaufman/Adler Now he’s halfway through seven interviews leather and net “mermaid” top with a built-in Realty, which owns the building, with fashion and TV journalists at the Mansion bra for $2,340. Dallas also sold one crystal-bead- 530 Seventh Avenue currently has Hotel here, and in quick turn he’ll have to don ed evening gown for $15,000. a 98 percent occupancy rate. “It’s really important for us to make cloth- In addition to the remodeled ing that looks beautiful, feminine and intelli- lobby — which cost almost $1 I love interacting with my gent,” Posen said. “I’m very passionate about million — new windows, “ women feeling great in the clothes, strong and refurbished elevator cabs and customers and learning powerful and modern and sexy.” hallways, and a new security system Posen’s unassuming demeanor and frequent were put in place. It was carried out from them. People really admission that he still lives at home with his by Macrae-Gibson Architects and parents endeared him to party guests and American Construction served as responded to the daywear shoppers. Patti Crews, a fan in Dallas, found the general contractor. Posen “just darling” and ordered four pieces. According to Kaufman/Adler and that had been “It seems that rather than create art, he president Bob Savitt, the building is wants to design fashion that will look good on trying to attract more tenants in the an emphasis because I women, not just on the runway,” she said. junior market and recently added Posen is slowly growing his company and Rampage Clothing, Star City Apparel, The lobby of 530 Seventh Avenue was love tailoring. plans to unveil his first resort group in June Take Out and Lee Thomas. Other recently refurbished for almost $1 million. ” — Zac Posen and add knitwear to the spring collection. tenants include the design offices of “I love knitwear,” he said. “It’s something Michael Kors, Eileen Fisher, Max Mara, Maggy London, Onward Kashiyama and Chetta B. a tuxedo as the main attraction at a fancy cock- that can be incorporated into the wardrobes of tail party. many different kinds of women and ages, and GOLDEN EXHIBIT: Boston’s John F. Kennedy Library and Museum will open an Does any of this stress show? Not for this there’s a lot of new technology. I’ll do the exhibition Thursday on the wedding between Jacqueline Bouvier and John 22-year-old — raised in the cross-cultural thinnest, softest cotton, and T-shirts like you’ve Fitzgerald Kennedy, as 2003 marks 50 years since the couple was married. mecca of a New York SoHo neighborhood and never seen.” Kennedy’s wedding dress will be on display as well as her Van Cleef & Arpels emerald relishing rapid success. The Posens declined to reveal annual sales and diamond engagement ring. An eight-minute home video of the wedding, invitations, “It was amazing,” Posen said of the San of the business, which is a family affair that photos and Jacqueline Kennedy’s poem “Meanwhile in Massachusetts,” which she wrote Francisco show and party, which drew a crowd employs Zac’s sister, a trained mime, and mask and gave to her husband on their first anniversary, will also be on display. of 1,100. “I love interacting with my customers maker named Alexandra, as creative director. The wedding gown, designed by Ann Lowe, was made of 50 yards of ivory silk and learning from them. People really re- “We’ve hit all our projections,” Susan Posen taffeta and features a portrait neckline and bouffant skirt decorated with small sponded to the daywear and that had been an said. “We want to grow in a sound manner.” flowers and tucking details. The exhibit runs through Oct. 31. emphasis because I love tailoring.” “We’re a small, multitasking company and Posen reigned politely over another lavish we’re learning every side of it,” the designer DONNKENNY’S LATEST LAYER: Donnkenny has set up a coat division and has hired party sponsored by Neiman’s that evening at the said. “I’m glad it’s happening the way it is be- outerwear veterans Ron and Bill Gallo to head it up as president and executive vice hotel, mingling with some 700 of Dallas’ fashion cause I’m able to oversee production and work president, respectively. The Gallos previously ran Rose Cloak & Suit, which had the flock. The next day, Neiman’s downtown flag- with my mother on the business strategy for us license for Bill Blass, Bill Blass Signature and Blassport outerwear. Their family has ship reportedly took more than $100,000 in or- to grow it properly.” worked in the outerwear business for 80 years. Donnkenny now has a licensing deal to ders, exceeding the take in California. He’s fueled by “caffeine and cookies” and “the produce all three lines, said Daniel Levy, chairman and chief executive officer of the firm. “The clothes are just beautiful,” said Karen love and support of good friends and family.” The Blass labels should generate a few extra million in annual sales for Katz, president and chief executive officer of The resort collection will focus on dresses Donnkenny, a $107 million operation, he said. Those collections will continue to be Neiman Marcus stores. “After San Francisco, and consist of about 10 pieces. shown at 530 Seventh Avenue in New York for the time being. we got constant e-mails from customers and “I’m going to do some swimsuits, too, which “We’re looking to diversify our business. We like the Blass names and we think press that they love him.” will be fun, and it’s great that I have a sister to they’re good names,” Levy said. “We’re always looking to expand Donnkenny’s reach. “We were astonished,” said Susan Posen, consult,” he said. 9 Textile & Trade Report TUESDAY,WWD, 2003 13, MAY McCracken Denies Interest in Lycra Bid Nontariff Barriers NEW YORK — Steve McCracken, president of DuPont Textiles & Interiors, in a recent inter- view spoke out to deny reports that he was looking to assemble an investor group to buy DuPont’s Lycra spandex business, which he formerly headed. “If that rumor were true, then I would need to declare it to be true or there would be signifi- Key Concern in WTO cant conflicts of interest here,” he said. “In a company like the DuPont company, the integrity issue is paramount, and that rumor is untrue. I’m interested in running the DTI business as a By John Zarocostas whole and working with the 20,000 great people to thrive in the future.” DuPont is seeking to sell or spin off its DTI unit by the end of the year as reported. The com- GENEVA — A major grievance of textile and clothing exporters from pany recently confirmed that it’s in sale talks with a party it declined to identify. Sources have rich and poor countries alike is the nontariff barriers they face, from said that party is Wichita, Kan.-based Koch Industries Inc., a major petroleum trader that also Customs delays to excessive inspections. owns polyester maker KoSa. In the World Trade Organization’s Doha round of trade talks, af- A Koch spokeswoman last week declined to confirm or deny the talks, and DuPont officials fected countries have presented long lists of barriers. have not indicated with whom they are speaking about selling the business. One of the objectives ministers agreed to when they launched the McCracken, who had previously headed up DTI’s fiber operations, took over full leadership round in November 2001 was to reduce or eliminate nontariff barriers for of the business this month. The move was one of the final housekeeping steps Wilmington, Del.- industrial goods, in particular, on products of interest to poor countries. based DuPont needed to complete in preparing the $6.3 billion business to be sold or spun off. The U.S. has argued it is critical that WTO members develop ap- —Scott Malone propriate and transparent methods to remove such obstacles and to secure “meaningful improvements” in market access. But the U.S. submission emphasized “we should not underesti- mate the challenge that lies before us” in its submission to the Swiss chairman of the market access talks for goods, Pierre Louis Girard. In a similar vein, the European Union stressed that some nontar- iff barriers are based on legitimate policy objectives, such as public Pantone Rearranges Its Rainbow safety, health, security, environmental or consumer protection. But the EU acknowledged that they also may be dictated by “protection- NEW YORK — Pantone is revamping its 19- ist designs” which are incompatible with WTO rules that impose year-old Textile Color System. The first “unjustified burdens on traders.” change is the name: It’s now called Pantone Some of these measures impose unnecessary costs on business for fashion and home. But the biggest difference, said the com- Many WTO negotiators fear that any pany, is that the colors are now arranged chromatically. Before, they were organized market access obtained…could be by groups. So, for instance, a designer look- ing for that perfect red will find all the reds undermined if countries are allowed to in one place. “The ability to search for a particular continue to resort to hidden barriers. color within each color family is a key fea- ture,” said Lisa Herbert, executive vice pres- and consumers or distortions to trade, asserted New Zealand. ident of Pantone. “Our years of research and Many WTO negotiators fear that any market access obtained in customer feedback led to our decision to re- the talks through cuts in industrial tariffs could be undermined if design Pantone for fashion and home in a countries are allowed to continue to resort to hidden barriers. format that addresses the specific design, Developing countries are equally critical about the harmful ef- sourcing and manufacturing workflows of fects of the barriers. Mauritius, for example, said it favors that priority our clients.” be given to eliminating administrative bottlenecks and complex distri- In addition, the new system contains tech- bution networks. Hong Kong said the varying degrees of classifica- nical enhancements for greater utility, in- tions of garments acts as an impediment to trade, as extra time is re- creased visualization and easier usage. One quired to process documents. of the simplest changes is that the binder is A group of seven African countries, including Kenya, Nigeria and now larger and holds bigger cards that fea- Ghana, complained that trade preferences given by rich countries can- ture more tear-out color chips. The company The new, larger binder holds bigger cards that not be fully used because of the restrictive nature of the rules of origin. has also improved the consistency in color, feature more tear-out color chips. South Korea and India cited the unreasonable enforcement of whether on paper or cotton. rules of origin for textiles. “All colors in the paper guide and speci- month and the cotton version will bow in Pakistan’s submission complained that cotton yarn and cloth has been fied publications have been matched to the mid-June. Pricing ranges from $5.75 for a subjected to quarantine certification and as a result denied access. most current Pantone Textile cotton stan- textile color swatch card in cotton to $3,600 Turkey complained that discriminatory preshipment inspections dards for tighter consistency between both for the color swatch files in cotton. on all products and the imposition of minimum import prices on ap- substrates,” she said. “One of the most important things that we parel and footwear act to curb trade. Finally, the new system uses a consistent will continue to consider is how our cus- WTO countries have yet to agree on how to proceed on the issue. light source. “We have selected D 65 (day- tomers use our products,” concluded There appears to be a fair amount of support for Canada and light) as our primary light source for color Herbert. “Their expectations are critical to Chile’s proposal to launch negotiations on trade facilitation at the evaluation,” said Herbert. our product development and evolution.” Cancun ministerial in September. The paper version will be available this — Daniela Gilbert PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE THOMAS BY PHOTO

BREATHING ROOM FOR FEUERSTEIN: the Africa Growth & Opportunity Act, and the Andean Trade eveningwear, lingerie and a fantasy category featuring Malden Mills Industries Inc. Promotion & Drug Eradication Act, and how U.S. manufactur- conceptual garments. SWATCHES chairman Aaron Feuerstein got ers can benefit from these pieces of legislation. Approximately $4,000 was donated by Radici Spandex Corp. some wiggle room on Thursday. The bankruptcy court extended U.S. Customs Service import specialist Richard J. Wilson and will be divided among the winners. They include Tiffany to Aug. 21 the deadline for him to assemble $92 million to will discuss the work of jump teams in the affected regions. Dominguez, who won the fantasy, women’s sportswear and regain control of the Lawrence, Mass.-based company from Henry Frasen, executive director of the Honduran Apparel children’s wear categories, as well as the grand prize. Juan Vargas creditors, according to business manager David Costello. The Manufacturers Association, is also to present a case study on won the eveningwear category; Xiao Jing Dong won for swimwear previous deadline had been July 31. how his nation’s industry has adapted to the legislation. and men’s wear designs and Canea Jones was the lingerie winner. “It just gives us some additional time, which I think all of There is no registration charge for the morning event.The Designer John Varvatos, Flaunt magazine founder Long the creditors think is in their interest…because they’d like to afternoon event costs $95 for AAFA members and $125 for Nguyen and several others judged more than 50 garments from have him buy back the company,” Costello said. “He’s got nonmembers. HSFI’s senior class. more than half of [the $92 million] committed at this point.” He added that because of strong demand for its fabrics, NCCJ HONOREES NAMED: The National Conference for CALLING NEW DESIGNERS: Woolite recently announced the sec- Malden is in the process of hiring 25 new manufacturing work- Community & Justice plans to honor Russell Simmons, chair- ond annual Fashion Future Grants program and is inviting new ers. The company payroll currently numbers 1,200. About 900 man and chief executive officer of Rush Communications, and designers to apply for sponsorship of their fall 2003 and people work in the company’s mills. Keith Nagy, director of filament at Celanese Acetate, at its spring 2004 fashion shows. The program was created to show- annual Retail, Fashion & Textile luncheon on May 20. case promising designers. Candidates will be selected by an EXPORT ADVICE: The U.S. Commercial Service is organizing a Russell is slated to receive the NCCJ’s Humanitarian advisory committee chaired by Margaret Hayes, president of pair of panel discussions for May 20 intended to address Award, while Nagy is up for the Retail, Fashion & Textile Fashion Group International and the Woolite Fashion Forum. ways that U.S. apparel and textile companies can do more Leadership Award. One designer will be chosen for fall, while another will be business overseas. Funds raised by the event, which is to be held at noon at the picked for spring. Each designer will receive a cash award of At 9:30 a.m. at the offices of the Garment Industry Grand Hyatt Hotel in Manhattan, are to support projects, includ- $10,000 to be used toward a show or presentation during New Development Corp., at 275 Seventh Avenue in Manhattan, the ing the group’s Emerging Leaders Institute and its Faith Initiative. York Fashion Week, as well as inclusion in a print and broad- service will host a talk on how to market and sell U.S.-made cast consumer education campaign. Last year’s winners were apparel in Spain. Carmen Adrada, commercial specialist at the MAKING THE GRADE: The High School of Fashion Industries held Paul Chan and Tawfik Mounayer. Applicants must have worked U.S. Embassy in Barcelona, is to be the primary speaker its annual “Stretch to the Future” scholarship design in fashion for at least one year and not more than five years. At 2 p.m. at the Southgate Towers Hotel at 371 Seventh competition Wednesday. The entries were judged by various They also must be working at least partially with machine- or Avenue, the service, along with the American Apparel & members of the textile, fashion and media industries. hand-washable fabrics. Footwear Association, has set a seminar on trade progress that The competition included garments in the following Final selections of the grant recipients will be made in June has resulted from the Caribbean Basin Trade Partnership Act, categories: women’s sportswear, men’s wear, swimwear, for fall, and in November for spring 2004. 10 Print Fabrics

Milkprint’s abstract floral at Directions. WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 13, 2003 WWD, TUESDAY,

The Colorfield’s colorful sketchy floral at Directions. Blooms Day NEW YORK — Fabrics will be in full bloom come summer 2004. At last month’s set of textile design shows, floral motifs were shown in a variety of forms including large or scale, flat, water-color-like and abstract. Color, meanwhile, was both bright and feminine. While pinks and reds were seen in abundance, many exhibitors also noted London Portfolio’s the importance of aqua blues and greens. large-scale look at Directions.

Alison Hume’s bright flat floral at Directions.

Splash’s watercolor floral print at Printsource.

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New York: (212) 382-1170 Keelergordon’s painterly print at Printsource. Los Angeles: (213) 623-5002 PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO; STYLED BY DANIELA GILBERT DANIELA BY STYLED CENTENO; TALAYA BY PHOTOS WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 13, 2003 11 representative. Whitefield added that Self- Indeed, industry observers So why all the interest in Selfridges shares closed today Leeds, Newcastle and Bristol. Leeds, Newcastle serveridges may also a vehicle as for Weston to buy other depart- ment stores: “It may be a vehicle of consolidation. He may look to House for of example, Fraser, way.” and expand Selfridges that agree that the publicly quoted House of will Fraser likely be next on investors’ lists, and may well be the target of a manage- ment buyout. “There’s room to ex- pand that business, and manage- ment would probably love to do it without interference from the fi- nancial world,” said Maureen Hinton, a senior retail analyst at Verdict Research, a consultancy based here. And Weston already has at least a partial link to House of Fraser — Andrew Jen- nings, chief executive of Holt once Renfrew, ran the 53-store U.K. chain, which had sales last year of $1.55 billion. British department stores now? The simple answer appears to be return on investment. “Selfridges is a very profitable business right said now,” Whitefield of Manage- ment Horizons. “If had Weston put his millions in the bank, he’d be getting a 6 percent return on it. At Selfridges, he’ll get more than that.” at $6.40, up 11.95 percent from the previous day's close. Debenhams shares closed at $6.60, up 23.73 percent from the day before. Whitefield added that Self- Since Selfridges was de- — Selfridges spokeswoman Selfridges — said Edward Whitefield, chair- man of Management Horizons, the retail consultancy based here. “Selfridges fits into his scheme very well and there are great synergies to be had among the different stores.” ridges had potential to expand to “at least” 10 stores in the U.K. — and then abroad. “Selfridges is a brand emporium and the brands they carry have an international appeal. I definitely think there are opportunities outside the U.K. for the company.” merged from Sears plc in 1998 and floated on the London Stock Exchange, trading space has in- creased to 807,000 square feet from 540,000 square feet. Self- ridges currently has its flagship on Oxford Street, and two units in Manchester. Its new Birmingham store will open and in September, plans are in the works for a Glasgow unit. The company also said in its statement Monday that other “targeted” cities include ” MediaWorldwide Close: June 12 June Close: Although the decision was made Over the weekend, the Scottish Industry observers said the “I think it was a very far- WWD entirely on the basis of price level, we’re also happy that the compatibility between Selfridges and Weston’s companies is there. “ in the works. Sources say Aleth- eia Partners, a consortium in- cluding the Iranian property ty- coon Robert Tchenguiz, may still be preparing a rival, 11th-hour offer. A Tchenguiz spokeswoman declined to comment. As report- ed, the Formula One motor rac- ing boss Bernie Ecclestone is said to be backing Tchenguiz. entrepreneur Tom Hunter joined forces with Simon and David Reuben, with a fresh, last-minute bid that fell about 3 cents a share short “I of offer. wish Weston’s Galen and Weston Selfridges every success,” a spokesman for Hunter said, indicating Hunter would not be putting in another bid. Selfridges was Hunter’s third unsuccessful retail takeover at- tempt this year after his offers for and House Allders of were Fraser rebuffed. Weston-Selfridges combination was a hot one. sighted move on part,” Weston’s Section II: June 30 June II: Section movie theaters, and on the Hampton Jitney. Hampton the on and theaters, movie Rich and Famous. and Rich Williams could not Williams be reached Monday’s announcement came was “Weston’s the highest Shareholders will have up to While industry analysts called that Selfridges sat well within his empire: “There is a good fit be- tween Selfridges’ distinctive ap- proach to the retail experience and Wittington Canada’s consid- erable experience in finding cre- ative and appropriate ways to grow such concepts,” he said, adding that he planned to work with existing management led by chief executive Peter Williams, who replaced Vittorio Radice earlier this year and who himself was leading a management team interested in buying Selfridges. for comment on Monday as to his plans, but past newspaper re- ports in Britain indicated he would stay on even if he didn’t win the bidding. after intense weekend discus- sions among Selfridges’ nonexec- utive directors, their financial ad- and bidders. visers Merrill Lynch, offer we received and we think very attractive it’s deal a for very, shareholders,” a Selfridges spokeswoman said. “Although the decision was made entirely on the basis of price level, we’re also happy that the compatibility between Selfridges and Weston’s companies is there.” 60 days to sell their shares in Selfridges. the offer a good deal for share- holders and a golden opportunity for Weston, another bid could be WWDInside/The Hamptons Catch this exclusive audience everywhere they go, all July 4th week long, week 4th July all go, they everywhere audience exclusive this Catch Guerrilla Marketing to the to Marketing Guerrilla Hamptons right now: the stores, the scene, the restaurants, the real estate and the styles. the and estate real the restaurants, the scene, the stores, the now: right Hamptons and celebrities. For the first time, WWD plans to deliver the insiders’ guide to what’s hot in the in hot what’s to guide insiders’ the deliver to plans WWD time, first the For celebrities. and with bonus distribution at high-end specialty stores, markets, hotels, galleries, salons and spas, and salons galleries, hotels, markets, stores, specialty high-end at distribution bonus with For more information on advertising, please contact Ralph Erardy, Senior VP, Group Publisher at 212.630.4589 or your WWD sales WWD your or 212.630.4589 at Publisher Group VP, Senior Erardy, Ralph contact please advertising, on information more For

When the sun gets hotter, so do the Hamptons, the favorite summer spot of fashion royalty, socialites royalty, fashion of spot summer favorite the Hamptons, the do so hotter, gets sun the When

Weston’s high-end Weston’s retail hold- According to a joint state- The offer of $6.33 a share rep- said Weston in a statement

Continued from page one an indicative pro- it had received posal from the venture capital group Permira, valuing the com- pany at about Permira $2.4 is backing Debenhams billion. chief executive Belinda Earl and her management team, which has offered approximately $6.84 per share for the 90-store chain. Debenhams did not release any further details, and Earl could not be reached for comment. ings include Holt Renfrew in Canada and Brown Thomas in Ireland, while the British side of family owns London’s the Weston gourmet emporium Fortnum & Mason. Galen company Weston’s Canada, Wittington a private holding, also controls George Ltd., Weston one of the largest food processing and food distri- bution companies in North America. ment issued by Selfridges and Oxford Acquisitions, Weston plans to offer up to $6.33 per share, comprised of $6.24 in cash for each share and a fur- ther 9 cents per share as a final dividend for the year. resents a premium of about 60 percent over the closing price of $3.95 on April 8, the last day prior to the start of the bidding process for the retailer. All fig- ures have been converted from the pound at current exchange. Weston Tables $1.14B Offer for Selfridges for Offer $1.14B Tables Weston 12 Media/Advertising

NEW MAGAZINE #1: The Readers Digest Association has been holding meetings in recent weeks with eBay about doing MEMO PAD a publication based on the online site. The project has not yet received a green light — eBay is still deciding whether to proceed — but a proposal (don’t say prototype!) has been drafted. “I look at a lot of possibilities and this is one of the things that we’re looking at that might be interesting,” said Readers Digest vice president A new eyewear look Frank Lalli when reached for comment. “But we are a long way from from Versace, shown at Mido. WWD, TUESDAY, MAYWWD, TUESDAY, 13, 2003 anything except a level of interest.” Still, the project does have an editor working on the development of its content: Jim Seymore, the former managing editor of Entertainment Weekly. Of course, he and Lalli are alumni of Time Inc., where both had the misfortune of being dumped by its editor in chief Norman Pearlstine when their respective numbers at EW and Money seemingly couldn’t have been better. New Shades Heat a Cool Sector While the eBay project would likely include a catalog component — possibly featuring a classified section in which sellers could advertise their wares — a source said the magazine would also focus on the personal aspects of the eBay community. For example, said the source, it might do articles on how to start a business online or through eBay. The project is of considerable interest to Readers Digest because eBay has transformed online retail not only for urban sophisticates, but also the kinds of average Americans who subscribe to Readers Digest in droves. The Digest has also been attempting to update its profile under editor in chief Jacqueline Leo, who was installed in August 2001. Like many other venerable mass-market magazines, including TV Guide and Ladies Home Journal, it has been faced with declining readership, though its circulation of 11 million is still among the largest in the country. If the project comes to fruition, it would be a return tour for eBay to the publishing industry. A monthly eBay magazine with a circulation of 400,000 was shut down in 2000 after printing 15 issues. That project was developed Versus by Versace is geared at a younger clientele, left, and a style from the new Giorgio Armani collection. with Wisconsin-based publisher Krause Publications. A spokesman for eBay did not return a call seeking comment. — Jacob Bernstein By Amanda Kaiser or a combination. The younger Versus line tends to- ward the sporty in basic black or eye-grabbing metal- NEW MAGAZINE #2: The first playground of the swingingly rich is the latest MILAN — The forecast for the eyewear market is lic hues of purple or red. The line’s new logo in gothic to get the glossy it deserves. Vegas magazine, set to debut on June 26, is hazy these days, but that’s not stopping fashion lettering is emblazoned on the stems. the next link in the chain of haute urban titles joined loosely by Jason Binn houses like Versace and Armani from fine-tuning Armani, in keeping with its comparatively less and Jerry Powers. The pair founded Miami’s Ocean Drive a decade ago, the style of their shades. flashy image, took a decidedly more conservative before Binn went on to launch Hamptons, Gotham and L. A. Confidential Over the years this fast-growing category has be- approach at Mido as it rolled out its first Safilo- on his own. Now they’ve teamed with a third partner, Las Vegas’ own come an important vehicle for brands to extend their produced eyewear line. Models of the Giorgio Greenspun Media, to produce their next installment. reach. Despite sluggish market conditions, the sector Armani and Emporio Armani collections were Binn is the silent partner this time around, he said, while Powers is co- has generated plenty of buzz lately as a couple of key kept under fairly tight wraps at the fair and shown publisher along with Greenspun’s Michael Carr, the former president of brands dramatically shifted their alliances with the to the press on request only. Playboy who retired last fall and then unretired after resettling in Vegas. eyewear manufacturing heavyweights. Armani is opting to sell the collection “un- The magazine will kick off with a 2,000-guest launch party, a Versace earlier this year inked a 10-year li- seen,” in the words of a company spokesman, who circulation of 80,000, and 80 pages of ads in the first issue, which was censing deal with industry giant Luxottica, which said an ad campaign will break in September. mostly produced by the art and editorial staffs of Ocean Drive, Carr said. was looking for ways to compensate for losing its The Giorgio Armani collection features large It'll be less Texas Monthly and more “W crossed with Robb Report crossed Giorgio Armani license late last year. Meanwhile, oval or rectangular-shaped lenses with frames in with In Style,” according to Carr, or at least the blend of gossip, shopping, Armani is working to redesign and better distin- colors like cobalt and cherry. There are also real estate and party photos that inspires more flipping than actual reading. guish its signature Giorgio Armani and younger sportier wraparound styles and retro models with It seems to be the perfect marriage; after all, Vegas has been importing Emporio collections with new partner Safilo. thin wire frames. Similarly, Emporio offers bold pieces of other cities wholesale for decades (think Caesar’s Palace and But new deals weren’t enough to lure visitors oversize or extra-small designs, some embellished Guggenheim Las Vegas), so why not import their readers? “Sure, we are to Milan’s Mido fair, which ran April 26-28. The with rhinestones or tiny studs. appealing to the play people,” Carr said, “but it’s not just the people who number of visitors dropped 33.4 percent as buyers “We’ve already sold the collection to the major- come in; it’s also the people who live here. The distribution will also be to feared SARS and opted to take advantage of the ity of key clients and the response has been very households in the area with incomes north of $250,000. This is going to long holiday weekend and skip the event, al- positive,” said a company spokesman. Safilo be huge.” though Mido organizers claim that those present shared that optimistic tone. His co-publisher knows how to turn a profit. Powers told the Miami at the fair did good business. Concern over SARS As reported, Armani terminated its 14-year part- Herald in January that his magazine had $11 million in revenues in dominated much of the fair. Bathrooms were dis- nership with Luxottica over disagreements about the 2002, almost the same as in fiscal 2001, when it earned $2 million in infected every 10 minutes. Fresh air was continu- design and the mass distribution of its eyewear lines. profits. — Greg Lindsay ally pumped into the pavilions and some fair- Luxottica said the Armani business had generated grounds personnel wore masks. Chinese ex- about 7.2 percent of its total sales, which, based on DRESS FOR SUCCESS: You’d think readers of BusinessWeek wouldn’t need to hibitors and buyers stayed home this year, but the 2002 numbers, would come to about $259.35 million. be told how to dress, but its editors and Chic Simple beg to differ. They're Asian retailers who did come could get special Both Versace and Armani’s plans to grow sales in teaming to produce “Dress Smart Business,” a how-to guide for the badges to show they passed health inspections. today’s market present a tall order. The latest statis- unfortunate few still wearing chinos and sky-blue button-downs to the But gloom or no gloom, Versace was bent on hav- tics show an industry at a standstill amid war and insurance firm every day. The guide will be bound inside the Sept.15 issue of ing a good time at Mido. The firm is betting on eye- the outbreak of SARS. Eyewear production in Italy the magazine as a special insert sent to all 970,000 North American readers. wear in a big way. Donatella Versace hosted rose just 1.2 percent in 2002 to $2.14 billion, accord- The guide will borrow heavily from Chic Simple’s books “Dress Smart Luxottica chairman Leonardo Del Vecchio and a ing to data from industry organization Anfao. Men” and “Dress Smart Women” published last fall, which are now slew of eyewear distributors in her Milan apart- Uncertainty over the future in Iraq, the spread of apparently the cornerstones of what Chic Simple president Jim Winters ment for a risotto and fish dinner followed by SARS and potential conflict between the U.S. and described as the company’s new “sub-brand.” drinks and dancing in her private garden. The fes- North Korea are setting the stage for a second half The company tested two issues of a magazine with the Chic Simple tivities included an appearance by a troupe of rap- 2003 of “ups and downs,” according to Vittorio name on the marquee, polybagging them with Hearst, but “we were moving ping break-dancers. Tabacchi, president of Anfao and chairman of Safilo. in different directions,” Winters said. “We moved too far off brand with “This is not a typical licensee,” Versace said in “The outlook is certainly not very optimistic those tests, and right now we’re taking the opportunity to examine a Chic her downtown Milan office. “[Del Vecchio] wants and is placing many companies, especially small- Simple magazine in its truest format.” — G.L. fashion from us…I make sunglasses to work with and medium-sized concerns, on their knees,” he the outfit.” said in a speech kicking off Mido. Del Vecchio said: “Glasses must reflect all of Maurizio Dessolis, chief financial officer at De the values of a fashion house, drawing on its style Rigo, which makes eyewear for the Prada group, elements. To do this, we are focusing on creating a said his group expects 2003 sales in line with year- style that takes advantage of the brand’s ornamen- ago figures. May Retail Hitting Plan tation, as well as the creative use of colors, shapes The focus at Mido was on individual touches. and materials.” Plastic frames predominated, many in rounded retro Continued from page 2 the better benefit packages in re- Versace is also making sunglasses to flex its fi- styles, but there were also plenty of aviator models. part-time workers at its name- tail,” she said. “It’s not a cost-sav- nancial muscle. Two Gucci-owned labels are branching into eyewear, sake stores. ing measure and, in fact, we may “Even if the market is the weakest it’s been in 20 as reported, and were on display at the fair. Stella The moves, which are part of end up spending more money on years, Versace is beating its targets,” said chief ex- McCartney’s label features touches like synthetic an overall restructuring of the benefits as a result of some of the ecutive Santo Versace, who predicted that Versace leather borders around the lenses and metallic stars, benefit program at the chain, will changes.” eyewear sales will reach $103.5 million to $115 mil- while Bottega Veneta’s has oval shapes in tortoiseshell affect employees who average 20 In all, Target’s 1,167 discount lion this year. The goal is to double that figure in and wire-rimmed versions studded with metal accents. hours or less a week and will take stores employ about 245,000. the next three years. (Dollar figures have been con- Salvatore Ferragamo got glitzy with a floral hold next March. Wal-Mart Stores Inc. offers verted from the euro at current exchange rates.) motif of crystals on its sunglass frames. Dolce & “Overall, the majority of our employees who work fewer than Luxottica snared the Versace license by buying IC Gabbana went Eighties style with smoky lenses team members are actually going 34 hours a week health care and Optics, the company that previously produced and surrounded by frames in summery colors like to have a richer package,” said a paid vacation after a two-year distributed eyewear for the Milan-based label. melon and candy pink. IT Holding’s Allison unit Target spokeswoman. waiting period, according to a Versace is serving up a diversified palette of eyewear, showed a series of gold-filled frames in yellow “We’re doing this to remain spokeswoman. There is also in- ranging from elegant evening models in pink with and white for Gianfranco Ferré, Romeo Gigli and competitive and even with the terim health care available from rose and purple jewel accents to more sober pairs in Extè. Prada displayed inverted wire frames that changes, we’ll still have one of the day of hire. black, tortoiseshell or bone. Frames are metal, plastic attach on the bottom-side of the lenses. NATIONAL MAGAZINE AWARDS

REPORTING David Remnick, editor In the Party of God, a two-part article by Jeffrey Goldberg.

FICTION David Remnick, editor Baader-Meinhof, by Don DeLillo; The Thing in the Forest, by A. S. Byatt; Jolene: A Life, by E. L. Doctorow.

PHOTOGRAPHY Thomas J. Wallace, editor-in-chief Robert Best, design director; Kathleen Klech, photography director, for September, October, November issues.

eserved. REVIEWS AND CRITICISM Graydon Carter, editor Terror on the Dotted Line; U.S. Confidential; The Penance of Pirates, by James Wolcott, for three articles.

We Salute all the National Magazine Award Winners. © The 2003 Condé by Inc. Publications, Nast All rights r 14 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 13, 2003 eibe ihqaiy o ot Fast cost. Low w quality. High Reliable. Master/Visa 718-945-3500all-startrucking.co IMMEDIATE $$FORINVENTORY 14-59 St/Mad-9Ave.;1500-10000SqFt&up buttons, beadsandtrims.212-243-4913 Bryant PkDuplex1100,2000,4500FT. CLOSEOUTS WANTED BWAY 7THAVESIDESTREETS Office/Showrm-Great Deals! 20 FtCeilings-GreatWindows/Views Import/Export, Dist.,GOH&Cartons Top QualityBlazers&CoatSpecialty TL 4Packages/T:212-268-7291 *5/17 3LevelDrapingPkgStart* *Train AsstDesigner&Prod’nAsst* 5/19 newclass/Flats,Prints,Embs **Photoshop 7.0&Illustrator10.0** New JerseyFactory BERNSTEIN R.E.-largest#NYClistings We Label&Ship-USCustomsWhse Allan Gallawa PATTERN/SAMPLES We buymen’s,women’s&children’s ork. Custom-madeBridalwr212-629-4808 We buyanyfabrics,evenremnants, Search-www.manhattanoffices.com 7,000+ UnitsperWeek/Cut&Sew Prime ManhattanJon212-268-8043 FASHION TRAINING 36,000 sq.ft./20YearsExperience TOP DOLLAR FOR Brian [email protected] ALLSTAR TKG&WAREHOUSE apparel. Largequantitieswanted. Showrooms &Lofts RETURNS,IR’S OR SoHo-Sublet Penthouse2000FT Rib-Lycra-Jersey-Fleece Also Available:Repair/Repress T:800-996-4469 F:800-540-2784 Great ’New’OfficeSpaceAvail Call Ra Trained HundredsSince2002 Three by201-861-0033 ADAMS &CO.212-679-5500 WALT ADAMSINC Any kindofworkavailable 12,000 sq.ft.emptyspace; bu CLOSEOUTS *ALL Off-Price* y y @waltadams.com mond @201-206-2006

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m rdt&mm fARdp.Qual’d dept. A/R self-starter of assertive be mgmt must collections, candidate yrs & chargeback 10+ incl: credit w/ Resp ind exp. motivated highly seeks kls atreprq x benefits, Exc req. exp Factor 401K. Faxres/salreqs.to:212-354-3051 skills. A (212)557-5000 F:(212)986-8437 (212)557-5000 PROFESSIONAL RESUMES,INC. uiyrltos hspsto will position student This com- remain openuntilfilled. and relations. hiring, planning, munity budget and staf advising, and curriculum development scheduling, and o A position the fully for a candidates Portland, is seeking institution, of baccalaureate Institute accredited Art The credit- Sell orders. financia needs w Have year a backing. million currently $4 mfr booking domestic apparel Men’s service Full shop tothetrade.Finefastwork. patterns. duplicates, ples, Sam- productions. small in Specializing •Designer-accessories...... $60K •Designer-sleepwear associate...... $55 •Receptionist-hi-end ladiescontemp...... $32K with knowledge division. A working childrenswear Assistant Excellent for seeks Designer Manufacturer Large w W A oc.Ielfrajitvnueo part- or sales venture and joint a nership. design for Ideal production, force. - place retdadata lyr Salary player. detail team working, a commensurate withexperience. and hard oriented committed, revie program include duties Major *Excellent verbalandwritten *Demonstrated abilitytowork *Demonstrated managementand *Five ormoreyearsofexperiencein *Five ormoreyearsofsignificant *Masters degreeinApparelDesign the possess will following credentialsandattributes: candidate qualified RESUMES THATWORK!SINCE1970 Joint Venture/Partnership FASHION INDUSTRYSPECIALISTS All lines,Anystyles.FineFastService. Academic Dept.Director ASSISTANT DESIGNER communicationsskills effectivelyasamemberofteam leadershipskills post-secondaryeducation experienceintheapparelindustry orarelatedfield Fax ResumeAttnRuthNally201-894-1186 APPAREL STAFFING PATTERNS, SAMPLES, oeIlsrtr ed obe to Needs Illustrator. dobe Since1967 dmin the for minimum, the Director At Design. pparel Department cademic srn raiainl&negotiaion & organizational /strong 1122 NWDavis,Portland,OR97209 KARLYN FASHIONRECRUITERS rh pcat trs vrtigin Everything stores. specialty orthy Please faxresumeto(212)971-2277 l salse .Bre pae co apparel Bergen N. established ell Free Evaluation-LifetimeUpdates PATTERNS/SAMPLES Interested applicantsshouldsend The ArtInstituteof Materials mayalsobeemailedto GILBERT CAREERRESUMES letter ofinterestandresumeto: ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION www.resumesforfashion.com 60 E42ndStreet,NYC10165 275 MadisonAveNYC10016 for ApparelDesign (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa Updating/Phone Interviews (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 DESIGN*SALES*MERCH e-mail [email protected] Call Sherr fashioncareercenter.com W-I-N-S-T-O-N RESUMES PRODUCTIONS No phonecalls,please BEST JOBS! PRODUCTION If interested,call1-800-727-9307 fashionresumes.com Susan Morris,AiPD, Fax: 503-228-4227 [email protected]. Portland 212-869-2699 201-871-9800 A/R y 212-719-0622. w . K f f l il ode o6 eddfr1st excellent for experience Competitive salary. needed years , 3 communication &organizational skills to 6X 2 to patterns Toddler Girls experience heavy ranges in sewingconstruction. children, size and all garments. missy for fit spec’s & with sketch Familiar to able be Must all busy in running of work sample room. Capable to ranges. Able size making. & grading, outerwear. marker System, mfr. Gerber active know & Must and ladies Outerwear in wool exp children’s heavy leading with indiv seeks based N.J V PROJECT MGR(Print)...... 60-75K PRODUCTION COORDS...... 45-65K DESIGNERS (AllAreas)...... 40-100K interested, ac- If as must. a well please e-mailyourresumeto: Excel as exp. sory must, supervi- and experience a payable counts Women’ exp. wholesaler. apparel garment Ladies PLANNERS...... 50-75K PRINT/PATTERN DESIGNER..35-40K TECHNICAL DESIGNE BILLING SUPERVISOR DESIGN ASSISTANT Call 212-986-7329orFax212-986-7708 "ON THEMARKS" ISUAL COORD(BizSide)...... 45-50K l ulfe addtspes umtrsm n aayrqieet to requirements spreadsheets. salary in and fluency resume submit as Vito Buttaat: please well candidates as solving, qualified skills problem All analytical, communication possess negotiation and must suppliers, Candidate teamwork of conditions. and the selection terms in worldwide, of traveling knowledgeable locations include in manufacturing be Responsibilities opening product. to must constructing an and of evaluating aspects fill pricing, in technical to experienced and be interviewing manufacturing must now Manager overseas headquarters. is based N.Y.C. Co. their Furnishing Home Dynamic x eeis a euewt aayrqieet to requirements salary with resume Wacoal One Fax Inc., America, Plaza, Lyndhurst,NJ07071,Attn:HumanResources.NoCallsPlease required. Wacoal location. to: are NYC mail and analysis Midtown or benefits. Notes. 201-635-0208 and Lotus the duties DKI Word, of MS Exc office its aspects Excel, for Some all know with presentation Must Design to divisions. & responsi- concept Merch. DKNY be from of to development VP Asst. the line Merch. assisting a for seeks ble co. apparel intimate Leading Manager ofProductDevelopment PATTERNMAKER tmedur Fax resumesto:201-729-9229 Fax resumeto212-398-9079 COMPUTER CAREERS g [email protected]

[email protected] Merchandising Assistant R EOE s rtresnil redyOfc;Good Office; Benefits. Faxresumeto: Friendly essential. trator Photoshop/Illus separates. active look sportswear men’s young urban Trendy, send or 212-878-2000 call at Please resume [email protected] skills. Best benefits. graphic Ms. general Outstanding good their to sketch- submissions clients, a sheets, Doing detail Mac. not Illustrator ing, the but excellent on plus have experience big Must company. must. a apparel wear associate another Children’s in for experience an years candi- design 1-2 The for have team. must their date looking join com- to outerwear designer is / active top panies the of One DESIGNER 35-40,000 a experience knitwear and must plus. Faxresumeto:212-398-2255 Photoshop a view. is of point contemporary Seeks Design Assistant up set to 718-369-2689 ability. interview. Tremendousgrowthpotential. to up resume follow Fax pricing, and sense, color skills possess computer layouts, Must sheets. spec approvals, pro- design, sample include between Responsibilities link sales. as duction, act to ual individ- seeks Co Sportswear Maternity DESIGNER -Boys 4/7-8/18 Associate Designer Design Assistant ASSISTANT DESIGNER 646-827-9043 witha - / Fax resume&salreqsto:212-268-0479 uiainsil.Ms eproficient be com- Must strong skills. with munication person de- oriented a seeks tail company branded Leading * (Boy’swear/Activewear/Urbanwear) *DESIGNERS (3)...... $60-75K (Men’s,Women’s,andChildren’s) *DESIGN ASSOCIATES...... $45-70K expinPhotoshop,Illustrator,orU4IA) (Oppty’sinmen’s/women’s/urban *CAD DESIGNER...... $40-60K (Assist Dir.ofRetailOperations) *ADMIN COORDINATOR...... $45-50K okn ihdsg ietro the on director design development, etc. packages, with working tech vendors & mar- overseas Jr’s for with / communication Urban Responsible in exp. ket. yrs 2-3 specs, w nec. sample sewing/construction years Lectra expaplus.Sometravelrequired. 5+ fit, and fittings. foundation all grading, supervise & depts pattern oversee spec, include Technical Responsibilities Foundations key Dept. direct seeks to Co exec. Lingerie Branded Major must. a skills skills. highly concept up Illustrator be from follow Must haveexperienceinAccessorie & Must design strong Photoshop with sample. seeks of organized, first phases Co work through to all Accessories indiv in self-motivated Ladies & energetic & Kids i r xeine l a resume fax be Pls resourceful. Must experience. to: Richard212-768-7856 yrs and sportswear. 3 Min motivated & creative, dresses knowledge a Extensive for in co. area growing NYC fast in position Immediate sales retail end/couture expert. Faxresumeto212-244-5136. high Seeking work to individual w savvy experienced, seeks computer company end High be to Must ability have l/c’s. & multi task.Pleasefaxoremailresume: of organized clarifica- document detailed, knowledge for / factories Followin tion, shipments / of w entry up distribution. data record / exp. import w yrs assist 1-2 needs to / firm w apparel clerk import/production women’s based NJ Import/Production Clerk (Men’s,Women’s,Children’s) (Knits) *SOURCING/PRODUCTION...... $100-160 *SALES...... $50-130 * PRODUCTION...... $30-100K (Women’sdresses/swimwear/sportswear) *DESIGNERS...... $50-100K (Positions availinJr’s,men’s,sleepwear) re- our & graphics screen peat printsinmultiplecolorways. create and to for sense and ability Individual color strong motivated Illustrator skills, substantial Photshop self have division. artist must and childrenswear creative seek- graphic/textile a is manufacturer ing Apparel Major Fax Illustrator. o stationery and knowledge resume: 212-779-0964Attn:Stace have and Should Photoshop designers co. accessory based non-licensed focused and growing licensed for and needed Dedicated in hudicueMn/Women’ / Men include should tions Designer to$80K *TECHNICAL DESIGNERS...... $40-80 Fabric Cutter/SewingOperators GROMWELL GROUP requirements to:[email protected] (Juniors, Children’s,Men’s,Women’sSportswear) Tel: 516-239-6581/Fax:516-239-6810 (10 posinWovens,Cut&SewKnits,Denim) F/T positionsavail.forTablecloth RETAIL ANALYST/PLANNER DESIGNER/MERCHANDISER...... $ to150K FASHION NETWORK201-503-1060/Fax1070 INVENTORY SPECIALIST Temp andFreelancepositionsalsoavailable. WORLDWIDE INC. Childrens hosiery,weaves&jacquards ith allaspectsofinventory. t lutao xe.Qualifica- Excel. & Illustrator ith Send resumeattn:OperationsEVP PREMIER SKIRTINGPRODUCTS Men/Women’s TechnicalDesigner JR DRESSDESIGNER GRAPHIC/TEXTILE Please faxresumeto:212-971-2277 Please faxresumeto212-719-2942 GraphicDesigners Please call212-972-9300ore-mail: PRINT DIRECTOR.HIGH-END. Please e-mailresumes&salary DESIGNERS $50K CAREER OPPORTUNITIES: very creativeJudy*JustMgmt.* Garment Industryfirmseeks 800-544-5878 Jud Please CallorFaxresumeto: emplo Fax resumeto212-202-6297. full timesize10FitModel. DIRECTOR J. Mendel FIT MODEL EVERLAST [email protected] fax to:212-239-4261. DESIGNER y ARTIST ment@rousson 201-662-1588 212-683-4038 y @justmgt.com y .com .... $50-80K y Mfr s. in . K g K K f s

slctdi h euiu mainline beautiful the in located is idcniae,pes a remail or fax please resume withsalaryrequirementsto: candidates, fied W Merchandising stu- FIT apparel dents mayapply.FaxorE-mailto: required. years Two experience flexible. industry full be or can growing Hours part assistant. seeking merchandisers/production fast is time NYC, a in agency Sourcing, Synergies closely work years will w Individual overseas skills. negotiat- ing extensive strong and mills have of 10 and knowledge Must Fabrics of Mills. Development Re- & for with responsible search seeks be Will experience. Company merchandiser Sportswear Ladies 1-2 approval. final from samples years fashionbackgroundpreferred. through and art all concept of and track children’ Submit keep division. for product licensed organized Coordinator seek Licensing co. Accessory Fashion Fax resumeto: Please experience. with commensurate Compensation Chinese/Mandarin. speak/write tech fluent and have skills Must production. design/computer & exp. design years 3-5 in all Minimum to shipment. track receipt final order & from handle issues production to detail person organized, oriented seeks co. knit Ladies’ Mini- English. / mum 2yearsexperience.Faxresumeto: Chinese literate in computer bilingual be & Must woven division. / suits sweater in individual & organized aggressive seeks importer Apparel NY fast-paced & Multi-task env. KnowlofExcelandWordamust. organize etc. an contractors, orders, for w/ follow-up looking to person mfr suit Ladies v MS req’d: to Exp able W efficiently. be good and very multi-task have skills, o must communication Merchandise VP Indiv the the Manager. experi- and assist an to Merchandising seeking self-starter is enced Inc. Star Movie A talented to Merchandiser a an w creative has level, for senior Philadelphia, opportunity of excellent west- suburbs mainline beautiful ern the in sportswear located children’s high-end of turer LLC Hartstrings, 0kpa n uhmore. much and insurance, plan bonus 401k health/dental/life and package, salary package, criteria. comprehensive excellent benefits including our a and compensation meets offers and directly the Hartstrings who Officer for opportunity report Operating candidate outstanding an Chief will is the position to This with working and final and costing process. on goals; business marketing/design/production and opportu- nities margin work- on production retail plans; with ing merchandising seasonal and developing sale n D res ananacrt in- accurate maintain orders, EDI and nesadteiprac ftiming of importance and deadlines. Must the standards. understand maintain and quality yadSUaayi falproduct staff. assortment design all to direction of product planning analysis and providing SKU lines, and profitabili- ty prod- meetings, lkeading development uct calendar, seasonal includ- ing Development, Responsibilities Product will market. include preferably children’s candidate experience, in Ideal years our 15+ lines. for have product plan 5 merchandising execute w esadhntg.Fxrsm with resume Fax la- salar hangtags. order and and bels library swatch factories, w/ maintain communicate boards, tion Licensing Coordinator Production Coordinato Pattern Mgrto$100K resume andsalaryrequirementsto: Fax resumeto:201-343-0653 Email resume:[email protected] prod. dept’s.AdvancedskillsinExcel, Assistant-detailed orientedindividual Merchandiser, Fabric Merchandisers -FT/PT to workwithdevelopment,sales,and WW. Strongtech/operations,Gerber. or faxto212.398.0703attn:L.Albert. noyblne,asml presenta- assemble balances, entory Production Assistant Production Assistant shireen@s s epnil o nlzn whole- analyzing for responsible lso seeks full-timepatternmaker.Expa sensbrso Philadelphia.) of suburbs estern t einr n oio fabric monitor and Designers ith r ihDsg tf odvlpand develop to staff Design with ork or 610-989-4160,attn:MM0303.EOE ord, E-mailrequired.Min5yearsexp r,Ecl rcs ucaeorders purchase process Excel, ord, Junior sportswearmfrinBrooklyn Head Merchandiser [email protected] Allen *JustMgmt.*800-544-5878 in apparelmanf.LIlocation. PATTERNMAKER must. Faxresume718-832-6988. Product Assistant Merchandiser/Administrative y (Children’s Wear) Fax resumeto:212-869-5393 to:HR212-684-3295. [email protected] 509-479-9506 y 212-619-0933 516-505-1370 ner 212-730-1094 g ,woeaemanufac- wholesale ., iesworldwide.com (Hartstrings Fax Quali- trim r d s f 15 WWD, TUESDAY,WWD, 2003 13, MAY Escada Trunk Shows Pull In $2M Counter Culture Cuts DALLAS — Escada loves this LOS ANGELES — A competi- been licensed to a company city, one of its strongest Ameri- tive apparel climate has led to owned by Ivan Spiers called can markets, and the feeling the shutdown, at least tem- Nzania, which also has the li- seems to be mutual. porarily, of Irvine, Calif.-based censes for Strawberry Short- A four-day trunk show last Counter Culture. About 20 em- cake and Stage 28. For now, month racked up $900,000 in book- ployees at company headquar- Fraley said Counter Culture ings, more than double last year’s ters have been let go in the last plans to continue shipping the take. The strong results were part- three weeks, according to Pat balance of its merchandise to ly due to the excitement generat- ed by the full-blown runway show in a tent outside the store in Selling the brand is one Highland Park Village. Escada “ skipped the runway show last option…and we’ve been approached year in favor of a more subdued party, given the post-9/11 tenor. by domestic and international But the bounty is also part of a larger pattern. A trunk show ear- companies. lier in the month in Palm Desert, ” — Pat Fraley, Counter Culture Calif., reaped $750,000 in book- Escada’s stretch cotton corduroy jeans sold 26 pairs at $480, while the ings — also more than double last Indian embroidered cashgora wrap camel coat was a bestseller at $6,800. Fraley, a founder. Counter about 30 Beyond the Beach year — and a March event in Palm Culture stopped shipping its stores — also owned by Spiers Beach, Fla., managed $350,000, a ministration turning its attention jacket with pearl edging, $2,950, men’s and junior lifestyle-ori- — in Southern California, 40 percent gain over 2002. to this country, we might see our with matching skirt, $550, and ented clothing in April. Arizona and Hawaii. Fraley, “This is generally a good indi- customers develop a little bit more an Indian embroidered camel At its peak, the line, found- who began working at O’Neill cation for us that we’ve got a good confidence and shop a bit more.” cashgora wrap coat for $6,800. ed 12 years ago in a Hunting- Clothing two weeks ago as the collection and that it will do well The company hosted about “All novelty bottoms, like ton Beach garage by Fraley men’s designer, said the part- at retail,” said Caryn Lerner, pres- 300 people for champagne and skirts, pants or jeans that are and Mike Schillmoeller, sold to ners are exploring the next step ident and chief marketing officer dessert at the event. printed or flocked velvet, did 350 wholesale accounts, in- for Counter Culture. “Selling of Escada USA. “The product is Top sellers were $480 stretch very well,” Lerner noted. “We’ve cluding Jack’s Surfboards and the brand is one option…and on. I’m hoping that with things set- cotton corduroy jeans in solid seen them trending well for Ron Jon Surf Shop, and gener- we’ve been approached by do- tling down a little in the Middle pink, purple and other colors; a spring and it looks like that will ated about $6.5 million in sales. mestic and international com- East, some good earnings reports lilac silk chiffon ruffle blouse, continue for fall.” Since 1997, the brand has panies,” he said. on Wall Street and the Bush ad- $650; a gold and ivory tweed — Holly Haber

Production Coordinator TECHNICAL DESIGNER SALES EXECUTIVE V.P. General Seeking full time Production Coordinator •Better Suits, Pvt Label...... $75-80K ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE - PRIVATE LABEL Est’d importer of moderate novelty to follow thru on production. Must be •T.D./Product Coord ...... $60K sweaters/knits seeks experienced pro •Spec Techs ...... $45K w/ strong dept./specialty chain contacts to Merchandise Mgr. detail oriented, highly organized, [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 40M U.S. Apparel Mfr. seeks computer literate. Must have 2-3 yrs Candidate must have a minimum of 3-years sales cultivate new and maintain existing production import exp. Technical Designer accounts. Positive energy & strong several experienced Retail Fax resume to 212-869-5330 experience in servicing major private label accounts. follow-up skills a must. Exp in C&S Knits & Sweaters, Plus PDM Call, fax or email resume to Lisa Cheung Merchants to lead its regional Apparel Staffing, Ltd. Fax (212) 302-1161 sales divisions servicing major QUALITY CONTROL Please fax resumes 212-764-6912 Tel: 212-302-3744, Fax: 212-302-8589 Apparel importer w/Secaucus whse seeks TECHNICAL DESIGNER email: [email protected] programs nationwide. Active role exp QC person to assist QC Mgr. Inspect in sales and merchandising as garments to CFM compliance w/ sewing Z. Cavaricci Girls Sales Executive Leading Childrenswear Mfr. seeks a interface between Major Accounts. /size specs & packing instructions. Evalu- Est’d importer of popular priced junior Design Dept and Global Sourcing ate fabric & ornamentation for appearance Tech. Designer for newborn - size 16. /missy/plus size knit tops & bottoms & defects. Communicate inspection in Provide spec development, fit analysis, seeks experienced sales pro to expand Dept. Confidentiality guaranteed. written reports. Fax resume to: Pat computer flat sketching, final style pkgs. our distribution. Must be energetic & $400K to $800K. Relocation not req’d. (212) 391-8027 Must have computer & strong communi- JUNIOR DENIM have est’d contacts w/major chains & Fax resume: Attn. CEO cation skills. Able to follow through on DAVID N discount stores. Salary+commission. RETAIL MANAGER/SALES all aspects of sample development & Looking for experienced sales person SALES EXECUTIVE Excellent opp. for right person. 732-919-0568 Prod. Denim exp. a plus. Great environ- in career missy and petite sales. Must Fax resume to 718-743-5466 [email protected] Great Stuff ment with good benefits. Fax resume: Major Jr. denim resource seeks Depart- (212) 967-6004 Attn: Jennifer have strong background working with ment Store based Sales Executive with major accounts. Must also be very detail experience in product development. We are a contemporary womens oriented and computer literate. Salary boutique looking for someone with TEXTILE DESIGN & Must have complete understanding of SALES PERSON/ open. All replies kept strictly confidential. all sales/merchandising aspects of the Management experience in a Please fax full resume to (212) 947-0134 contemporary fashion environment. ARTWORK ORGANIZER major players. Only heavy-hitters need SALES REP WANTED Ability to sell, manage staff, and Exciting Textile Co needs studio librarian apply. Pls. send resume to Box # 1070 Newly established NYC based Slipper merchandise. Must posses creative to organize and maintain variety of EXECUTIVE/SALES ASST 7 West 34th Street, 4th Floor & Sandal Co. seeking sales person/ GRAPHIC ARTIST visual skills. Located in charming design & artwork reference materials. Key position to work directly with New York, NY 10001 sales rep for new line with contacts to downtown Westchester Village & Benefits. Please fax resume attn: Kathy President of Kids & Ladies Accessories mass merchants. Hi-Pitch Creative Design Fairfield County. No evening hours. 212-869-6214 Co. Must be highly organized & able to MISSES UPDATED SPORTSWEAR Fax resume to: 212-239-1448 Studio seeks experience, Benefits, incentives, and competitive multi-task. Will be involved in all phases Est’d domestic mfr. seeks professional FT, GD to work closely salary. Fax resume to: of business including sales. Must be seller, with following, to work nat’l SALES 914-723-0626 detail oriented and a self starter. Must accts. from Co. NY shwrm. Salary plus. Updated better missy sportswear with Creative Designer have excel. computer skills & knowledge Fax in confidence @ (310) 327-8070 company seeks sales pro. Aggressive, on all aspects of design. SOURCING of retail systems. A great opportunity for results-oriented with following in MAC skills a must. growth for the right indiv. Pls fax specialty/chain stores. Good package. PROFESSIONAL resume & sal reqs to: 212-268-0479 Fax: 212-391-1530 Please fax resume to: Ctrl NJ Apparel Mfr. seeks exp’d well OTB (212) 575-1636 organized PRO to develop Seeks sales exec for Jr/Girls Tops & prospects, maintain supplier matrix, HOUSE REP Jeanswear Division. Merchandising negotiate price/delivery for domestic/ Ladies activewear/knit tops/ & sweater skills a plus. Must have est’d contacts. International Full Package resources. imptr. seeks highly talented indiv. w/ Fax resume to:917-342-9001 Attn: Jerry Production Coordinator Must have established network, 5 SALES REP min 5-10 yrs exp. w/ connections & acct years exp. FAX 732 919 0568 Established sportswear co. list. Salary + Comm. Great Oppty! Major women’s and children’s accessories [email protected] Email resumes to: [email protected] company seeks a highly motivated with unique product is ROAD REPS WTD. Production Coordinator with a minimum SPEC TECHNICIAN seeking sales professional INTIMATE APPAREL High-end NYC based RTW & Access. of 2 years experience who thrives in an shwrm seeks experienced road reps to upbeat and fast paced environment. FREELANCE/PART TIME Large childrenswear importer seeks w/ contacts & account ex- SALES PRO sell collections. All US territories open. Responsibilities will include daily Leading Robe/Sleepwear co. seeks a Please fax resume to (212) 807-7207 Independent Sales communication with overseas vendors, experienced speech tech to work on perience with mail order 2-16 sizes - all categories. (Bottoms top salesperson with strong connec- Leading knit/woven mfg. in China seeks act as a liaison between design and cos., major department & tions to major dept stores, catalogue exp’d independent sales for East Coast, sales depts. regarding artwork and experience a plus) Please fax resume: Attention Jennifer @ (212) 967-7494 outlets, & chains. Please email CV in MW, SE, Department stores, private sales order details and various other specialty stores. Minimum confidence to: [email protected]. labels background required. follow up issues. SALES ASSOCIATE of 5 years experience. Hip and trendy showroom Visit www.radiantdevp.com & Spec Tech/Production E-mail to: [email protected] The ideal candidate must be a Team Ladies Outerwear Importer seeks Must be self motivated JEANSWEAR (www.unisourceinc.com) is seeking a Player, detail oriented, organized and candidate with minimum 2 yrs experience SALES PROFESSIONALS self-motivated individual with experi- possess excellent written and verbal in attending fit sessions w/ designer, with organizational & de- Major international jeanswear company ence in the better women/men communication skills. Computer literate a specing garments, making corrections tail skills. Private label to introduce new power brand. Exp’d markets. Must have current proven must, AS400 experience a plus. Prior and forwarding information to factories. professionals needed for mid-tier, dept. relationships with clients & computer experience with Wal-Mart Retail Link Other production duties include order knowledge a must. store & specialty markets. Opportunities knowledge. Email resume w/salary also helpful. detail follow-up. Must be proficient in in woman’s, juniors & men’s categories. requirements to [email protected] Excel and highly organized. Potential for growth! Solid relationships essential. We offer an excellent compensation Fax resume to: 212-594-3999 Great Atmosphere! Please fax resume to: (212) 302-9325 and benefits package including a SALES 401(k) plan. For immediate consideration Fax resume to: Established moderate sportswear co ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** please fax resumes including salary Spec tech/Production Min 2 yrs of exp in specing garments, (917) 591-6908. Jewelry Sales Rep seeks aggressive sales person with Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC- history and salary requirements to: Startup NYC Jewelry Designer seeks department and specialty store TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? 212-842-3217 making corrections and be able to conduct fit sessions. Will be responsi- sales rep with related experience. Must contacts for missy and plus size. **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy.** ble for other production duties. Must ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE have established retail contacts, be Fax 212-768-9058 or call 212-221-1155 Production Coordinator be organized, detail oriented and have Major accessory & shoe retailer. Indi- highly motivated and willing to travel. Mfr seeks individual with 2 years mini- sense of urgency. Young & energetic vidual must have strong contacts with Great salary/comm. Please fax resume mum experience to follow up with over- environment. Please send resume w/ major chains/dept. stores., buying of- to: (203) 255-5705. Include pay history. seas and domestic chain store orders. salary req to [email protected] fice exp., knowledge of retail as well as Sales Executive Must work with design, technical the ability to analyze gross margin. Est’d domestic ladies sprtswr co seeks department and sales. Must have Tech Designer To $85K. Current exp. Very detail-oriented, team player. 4-5 Jr’s Bottom Sales exp’d sales pro w/ strong relationships. FREELANCE PATTERNMAKER strong computer skills. Fax resume in denim jeans, computerized, specing, yrs exp. in related field. Salary $140- Mfr. of Junior Bottoms seeks exp’d Junior, Plus, Chain, Specialty, Mass 20 years experience from lingerie too 718-369-2689 to set up interview. Great flat sketching. Sending e-mails to Far $165K. If interested, please e-mail your Salespersons with following. Merchandisers. Showroom in 1407 couture, custom made, evening, & opportunity for organized individual. East. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy. resume to [email protected]. Please fax resume to (212) 921-7817 Broadway. Fax resume 718-832-6988. bridal. Please call 718-239-9423 Summer print shifts by Lilly Pulitzer. Fabric by cotton. Cotton. The fabric of our lives.® www.cottoninc.com Cotton Incorporated, 2002. © Registered Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. Registered Service Mark/Trademark ¨ weekend AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. PRODUCERS AMERICA’S COTTON