PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO WWD into theblack. program thatbroughtthefashionhouseback during which he implemented a cost-cutting resigned last week after a four-year stint executive succeeds Giancarlo Di Risio, who board member on July 15. The low-profile Monday.WWD.com story as ceo there. The appointments confirm a officer atJilSanderAG,willsucceedFerraris while AlessandroCremonesi,chieffinancial been named chief executive officer of Versace, finally stopped. chairs atVersace SpAandJilSanderAGhas MILAN — MILAN By AlessandraIlari Name Executives Chief Versace andJilSander All ChangeattheTop: Sugar Rush On Tuesday, Ferraris declinedtoreveal Ferraris willjoinVersace andbecomea As expected, Gian Giacomo Ferraris has tweed suit.For more, seepages 6and 7. with romantic oversize fl owers. Here, Mizrahi’s sweet accessories, from scarves with playful prints to belts confectionery tweeds, neon mixed prints and plenty of Keeping the collection fresh and young, he opted for Isaac Mizrahi took a trip to the candy store for resort. The game of executive musical Women’s Newspaper Daily •June10,2009$3.00 Wear •TheRetailers’ Daily page 4. downturn, despite upbeat retailers European RETAIL:

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Sportswear 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JUNE 10, 2009 WWD.COM Objections in Filene’s Bidding By Vicki M. Young million associated with potential litigation revolv- ing around Filene’s lease at the currently inactive WwDWEDNESSportswearday The losing bidders for Filene’s Downtown Crossing project. After bidding $22 mil- FASHION Basement aren’t going away quietly. lion for Filene’s last month, Crown was designated

In an unusual turn of events, both Crown the stalking horse for the off-pricer. s 6 Resort is shaping up to have something for Acquisitions and Syms Corp. filed objections to Syms said in its filing Tuesday that certain everyone from Isaac Mizrahi’s sweet looks to the bankruptcy auction sale of Filene’s Basement bid procedures, including the requirement of a Alberta Ferretti’s urban safari theme. in which an affiliate of The Men’s Wearhouse Inc. commitment to close promptly after the date of was deemed the winning bidder at $67 million. the sale, were not followed. It pointed out the GENERAL Their grievances will be considered during a Men’s Wearhouse bid has a proposed effective The game of executive musical chairs at Versace hearing on the sale set for today in a Delaware date of Sept. 26. Syms said that at a certain point 1 SpA and Jil Sander AG has finally stopped. bankruptcy court. of the auction, its bid was deemed the highest In court papers filed with the court Tuesday, and best bid, and that it continued bidding even 3 YSL designer Stefano Pilati makes a definitive Crown called the auction a “travesty.” It had though procedures were not adhered to because statement about the speed of fashion trends with been expected to file an objection since the con- it “risked being illegally excluded by the [un- New Vintage, which bowed Monday at Barneys. clusion of the auction late Friday, claiming it re- secured creditors’] committee and the debtors 4 Despite some good signs, it’s too soon to expect fused to bid because the debtor wasn’t adhering from the auction if it did not bid.” bolstered earnings and sales across Europe, as to court-approved bid procedures. In a court document, Marcy Syms, president the bankruptcy of Germany’s Arcandor attests. Crown complained Men’s Wearhouse failed to and chief executive officer of the off-price retail submit an offer by the bid deadline, as required, group that bears her family name, said, “The cav- 8 MARKETING: The view of American consumers because the retailer intended to buy the assets alier attitude towards contractual obligations and about what they require, compared with what they pursuant to a plan of reorganization. the meaning of a court order taken by the estate desire, is undergoing a fundamental shift. Crown also claimed Syms doesn’t have the fi- professionals in this case is extremely disconcert- 12 WEST: The Shops at The Bravern in Bellevue, nancial wherewithal to close on a deal for the ing to an outsider participating in the bankruptcy Wash., is set to open in September with the bankrupt off-pricer, and that its partner in the system. The inability to rely on the rules estab- Pacific Northwest’s first Neiman Marcus store. bidding process, Vornado Realty Trust, is in “de- lished by this court will leave me, and I suspect fault for millions of dollars of obligations owed others, less willing to invest the time, resources A day after The Talbots Inc. said it was selling J. to the debtors.” Vornado is the landlord of the and money in a similar endeavor in the future.” 14 Jill, the firm said it was reducing the workforce in troubled Downtown Crossing development in Bob Carbonell, executive vice president and its Hingham, Mass., headquarters. downtown Boston, where Filene’s Basement chief credit officer at Bernard Sands Credit The House Appropriations Committee approved a planned to open a store. It’s been paying Filene’s Consultants, said, “In my 40 years in credit, I 14 $500,000 a month since January as compensation have never seen such a vociferous objection to $64.4 billion spending bill that boosts the budgets for not delivering the store on schedule. a Chapter 11 bid. It must have been a heck of of the nation’s two top trade agencies. The winning $67 million bid by Men’s Wearhouse [an auction and the hearing to approve the sale] Alberta Ferretti affiliate K&G Acquisition Corp. includes about $5 should be worth selling tickets to.” Classified Advertisements...... 15 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is [email protected], using the individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 197, NO. 120. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with Net-a-porter Records Higher Profits one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division aged around 1.8 million visitors a month and 3.3 of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services By Cate T. Corcoran provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. million page views a day. Because the company Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage While other luxury retailers con- is based in the U.K. and ships to about 170 coun- paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian tinue to slide, Net-a-porter reported strong growth tries, it has been less dependent on the hard-hit addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES in 2008 and the first three months of this year. U.S. market than some luxury retailers. TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS For the year ended Jan. 31, pretax profits more “In the U.S. we have always had a year-on-year CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed than tripled to 10.1 million pounds, or $18.3 mil- increase, but [after the October crash], the in- on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all lion, on a 47.8 percent increase in sales to 81.5 mil- crease slowed, so we quite clearly weren’t seeing editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. lion pounds, or $147.6 million. This compares with the same volumes in the U.S. as we’ve been see- For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. pretax profits of 3 million pounds, or $6 million, ing in the rest of the world,” said Sebba. “Sales Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services on sales of 55.2 million pounds, or $110.5 million, in other regions have continued to be strong and that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please a year earlier. Currency conversions were made at we’ve continued to pursue our marketing activi- advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, average exchange rates for the respective periods. ties in the U.S., and we do think that in particular UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR In the report filed by the privately held com- the collections we’ve had and the brands we’ve ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER pany to Companies House, Net-a-porter said rev- been featuring have been particularly strong. A MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE enues for the first 13 weeks of this year were up number of our competitors had slowed their buy- ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. by 45.3 percent. ing activities last year, and we continued to main- “We’re benefitting from being an online busi- tain the quality of our offerings.” ness,” said chief executive officer Mark Sebba. The company now has about 420 employees Other factors contributing to the company’s success and is continuing to hire. DAILY In this environment, we were a major redesign last year and new categories, The company’s gross profit percentage de- designers and exclusive merchandise. Notable ad- creased slightly to 48.3 percent of sales from 48.9 QUote “didn’t have the luxury of ‘fun ditions were bridal, lingerie, Lanvin, Givenchy and percent. More significantly, administrative costs exclusive collaborations with Alexander McQueen fell from 38 to 32.4 percent, reflecting economies and cute’ without the financial reward. and Roland Mouret. The redesign made the site of scale as the company was able to grow its top — J. Hicks Lanier, chairman and chief executive” officer easier to shop and introduced boutiques organized line without greatly increasing overhead. by style such as Salon and Cutting Edge. The com- TheOutnet, a separate site for sale and off- of Oxford Industries Inc., on the company’s decision pany also strengthened its underlying e-commerce price merchandise that launched in April, is to discontinue the Ben Sherman kids’ line. Page 13. infrastructure to handle more customers globally. doing well. “We’re trading ahead of budget over- Near the end of the year, the company aver- all,” said Sebba. CORRECTION The fabric content of the Simple shoe on page 38 of the WWD Trends Section II published Monday was incorrect. It is made of hemp and Gap, Stella McCartney Sign Kids’ Deal organic cotton. Stella McCartney’s world just got tion of Gap’s casual American aesthetic,” Marka bigger — and smaller. Hansen, president of Gap brand, stated. “Her Pat Cleveland TODAY ON Gap Inc. today revealed that it has signed a experience as a parent and designer are sure to at the Halston deal with the British designer to create one-off delight both kids and parents alike.” spring 1978 collections for GapKids and babyGap. The lines McCartney has substantially expanded aware- runway show. will launch late this year and will be carried in ness of her Gucci Group-owned brand both by select GapKids and babyGap stores in the U.S., increasing wholesaling, opening more of her own Canada, the U.K., France, Ireland and Japan, as stores, as well as through a string of designer col- WWD well as online in the U.S. laborations, the best-known of which is her col- .com “For years I’ve wanted to create a collec- lection for Adidas. She also did a one-off line for tion for kids,” McCartney stated. “It’s something H&M. The company currently has 14 stores in • More images from resort-cruise I’ve often been asked about. I believe that this London, New York, Los Angeles, Shanghai, Tokyo, including Isaac Mizrahi, one-off collaboration will be a great way for Beijing, Hong Kong and Paris, as well as 600 Alberta Ferretti and Ports 1961 customers to be able to participate in the Stella wholesale accounts worldwide. The brand covers • WWD Back in Time: Pat Cleveland McCartney brand. I believe that kids’ clothing women’s ready-to-wear, footwear, bags, fragrances, should be more accessibly priced, which is par- eyewear, accessories and Care skin care. and Anna van Ravenstein — ticularly important at the moment, given the cur- Gap Inc. operates 3,100 stores in the U.S., Like Mother, Like Daughter rent climate.” Canada, the U.K., France, Japan and Ireland, • WWDBlog: A look at “Dances This marks the first time McCartney will cre- and is increasing its international presence With Shakespeare” at Hunter ate boys’ and girls’ apparel. through franchise agreements in the Far East, “I’m looking forward to offering our GapKids Latin America, the Middle East and Europe. The College in New York and babyGap customers her unique interpreta- company had sales in fiscal 2008 of $14.5 billion. • Global breaking news WWD, WEDNESDAY, JUNE 10, 2009 3 WWD.COM

A display from Yves Saint Laurent’s New MEMO PAD Vintage collection at Barneys New York. FABIEN’S RETURN: Fabien Baron is back at Interview. Dressler lifetime achievement award Tuesday. Nora After parting ways with the magazine in January, Ephron, who presented the award, said she didn’t Baron was brought back to the title on Tuesday like Huffington the first time they met because they by Brant Publications owner Peter Brant — but were dating the same man. (Huffington later said this time as sole editorial director. “At Interview, she might post the man’s identity on Twitter.) we wanted an editorial director who not only Huffington preached to the media crowd that understands and appreciates the magazine’s history, pay walls won’t work unless the sites are selling but who also has the vision to carry the magazine something specialized and said if changes aren’t into a new era. Fabien will keep Interview at the made, the industry could become “like Detroit.” forefront of culture and make it relevant for a whole She also stressed the Huffington Post pays its new generation of readers,” Brant stated. editors — but bloggers still do not get paid. Baron’s arrival comes after Glenn O’Brien was Other Mirror Awards winners took a much different pushed out Monday in a continuation of a year’s approach, where most simply walked up to the podium worth of turmoil at the magazine. O’Brien joined and accepted their awards without providing further Brant Publications with Baron last spring, when comment. Vanity Fair took home two awards, including both were tapped as co-editorial directors, then took Seth Mnookin’s “Bloomberg Without Bloomberg,” for sole control after Baron left six months ago. O’Brien the “best single article, traditional media,” and David could not be reached for comment on Tuesday. Kamp’s “Requiem for a Micro-celebrity,” won for “best “I feel very fortunate to return to my former role single article, digital media.” The New York Times and am pleased to have the opportunity to guide also received two awards, one was given to David Carr this legendary title through the current paradigm for “best commentary, traditional media,” and David shift in the industry. I will put my heart in giving Barstow’s “Behind TV Analysts, Pentagon’s Hidden Interview the best of my work in a positive and Hand” and “One Man’s Military-industrial-Media e s

g creative environment,” said Baron. Complex” won for “best in-depth piece, traditional a When he resigned in January, insiders grumbled media.” The “best profile” was awarded to The New

t y I m over his expensive photo shoots for the magazine Yorker’s Ian Parker, for “The Bright Side,” and Clive

/ G e t and his lack of day-to-day involvement. But sources Thompson won for “best commentary, digital media,”

o u d said Peter Brant’s son, Ryan Brant, courted Baron to for wired.com. — Amy Wicks

o b L make a comeback. The younger Brant, who founded R

y gaming company Take Two Interactive, has taken PORTRAIT OF A LADY: Kanye West will host Men.

t o b a larger role at Brant Publications ever since his Style.com’s third annual “25 Women of Fashion”

P h o father became embroiled in a high-profile divorce celebration tonight at the newly opened Palace Gate battle with his wife, Stephanie Seymour Brant. lounge in the courtyard of New York’s Palace Hotel. In addition to being the top dog, there is The event celebrates industry insiders “who make the another change in Baron’s role in his second world more glamorous,” said Dirk Standen, editor in YSL’s New Vintage Bows at Barneys outing: he now will concentrate solely on Interview, chief of Men.Style.com and its sibling site, Style.com. By Marc Karimzadeh versus last time when he and O’Brien also oversaw This year’s party will have a twist: Olivier Zahm, editor Brant’s art titles Art in America and of Purple Fashion, will photograph NEW YORK — Stefano Pilati has some thoughts about the unforgiving The Magazine Antiques. honorees like Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, es speed of fashion trends, and New Vintage, his latest project, represents Baron’s return isn’t the last of g Charlotte Ronson, Rachel Roy and the Yves Saint Laurent designer’s definitive statement on the subject. changes to come. Sources close to Alexa Chung in a suite inside the The capsule collection, which launched exclusively at Barneys the magazine said former creative hotel during the event. The snaps New York here on Monday, is made from a recycled cotton drill from director Karl Templer, who resigned will appear with a feature on Men. tz/Getty Ima the YSL archives. Where many fashion designers try to incorporate along with Baron in January, could i Style.com the following day. an organic and eco fabrics into their collections, New Vintage gives a be returning to the magazine. r The women were chosen by new twist to the notion of sustainability. Meanwhile, art director Stella an all-male panel that included teve G “For me, my aim was more in the challenge, actually,” Pilati said Bugbee, who joined less than two S designers Rogan Gregory and Philip at the event. “It was trying to give fashion a value that is a bit be- months ago, has said to have quit Crangi; hockey star and ex-Vogue

yond the visual aspect or the consuming aspect.” her job. — Stephanie D. Smith hoto by intern Sean Avery; DJ Paul Sevigny, Pilati credited Julie Gilhart, Barneys’ senior vice president and p and The Sartorialist blogger Scott fashion director, with encouraging him to do the collection. FEWER OBSERVERS: Before New Schuman. — David Lipke “Stefano and I have talked about doing something more con- York Observer staffers attended the scious,” Gilhart, herself considered a pioneer of the green movement going-away party for Peter Kaplan MUCH ADO: Angelina Jolie takes in luxury retail, said at the party. “He came up with the idea of going last week, interim editor in chief Tom yet another cover turn on a glossy into the archive, and looking into the fabrics and reusing them.” McGeveran told editorial employees magazine on the July newsstand- The New Vintage collection layoffs were coming by last Friday. only issue of Harper’s Bazaar. of 60 or so pieces, including And as predicted, McGeveran cut a But eagled-eye fashionistas [My aim] was trying handbags and shoes, is priced third of the 30- to 40-person edit recognized her over-the-shoulder at $500 to $2,400, with an aver- team, including managing editor Angelina Jolie pose and red-carpet lighting t“o give fashion a value age price point of about $1,000. Jesse Wegman; executive editor Peter immediately. Sure enough, the The fine cotton drill fabric Stevenson; national correspondent photo is a Getty Images one taken that is a bit beyond the didn’t come from the time of Joe Conason; movie reviewer Andrew Sarris; editors in December at the Los Angeles premiere of “The the late Saint Laurent him- Damian Da Costa, Matt Haber, Chris Shott and John Curious Case of Benjamin Button.” There is no visual aspect or the self, but rather was taken from Vorwald; reporters Spencer Morgan and Doree Shafir; interview with Jolie inside; rather, the feature is an excess fabrics from the past writer George Gurley, and photo editor Alana Kaloshi essay by Naomi Wolf on the actress’ appeal. consuming aspect.­ 10 years, starting with Pilati’s was also let go. Most of the beat reporters who The use of a wire photo as a cover image set off time working for Tom Ford at produce stories daily will remain at the paper. The a firestorm of complaints in the blogosphere, with — Stefano Pilat”i, YSL the fashion house. Each piece Observer’s print and online staffers will also work theories ranging from cost cutting to a cover subject features a special New Vintage closer together going forward, with most contributing dropping out at the last minute. The subscriber cover label and is numbered, underscoring the limited nature. Midway to and editing on both platforms. According to features model Doutzen Kroes, shot by Terry Richardson. through the party, most of the pieces had already been snapped up. sources close to the paper, the moves were based So why not just put her on both issues? A Pilati had articulated his aim prior to the event in a “manifesto,” on a need to trim the editorial budget as financial spokeswoman for the magazine said, “Clearly, we are calling New Vintage “a general attempt to give a sensibility and an pressures mount, and not a reflection of the regime in an Angelina moment right now, and in a recent education to our public so that it can act consciously toward its envi- change of McGeveran taking over as editor. However, online poll, our readers reinforced that, overwhelmingly ronment,” and a way to “start a dialogue with the market using known an increase in the Observer’s freelance budget is choosing Angelina as the woman they admired most for codes and a common language that are reassuring and familiar.” commensurate with the salaried staff cuts, and some having it all. We responded immediately, asking Naomi “New Vintage is my way to reflect our social and economic state laid off writers could freelance for the paper. Wolf to analyze the Angelina phenomenon and rushing by capitalizing on existing resources to translate sustainable ‘val- On Monday, Observer owner Jared Kushner to get her photo on the newsstand cover. We’ve done ues’ into ‘forms,’” he added. addressed the remaining edit team to reassure different covers for subscriber copies since 2001.” For him, the concept is also a riff on the “merciless speed of fast fash- them of his commitment to the paper, his hope to But observers were still puzzled. “It’s a sad ion,” he continued, “and what we miss in the consequent public readi- rehire back some staffers as financials improve and state when a legitimate [fashion] magazine goes to ness and enthusiasm to consume fashion, reducing it more and more even spoke of growth plans. According to several the lengths of doing a write around. That’s saved to shallow parameters. The result is a compromised cultural dynamic sources, the Observer Media Group is pursuing a for tabloids,” said one Hollywood publicist. Some wherein the traditions of skill and know-how that we and fashion repre- joint venture with e-mail newsletter Very Short List, bloggers believed using Jolie may have been a ploy sent are dismissed or overlooked, where systems of evaluation are dis- which was founded by Kurt Andersen and is funded to boost newsstand sales. torted, where integrity is clouded by a theater of marketing and trend.” by IAC. A deal could happen in the next few weeks, According to figures from Audit Bureau of Simon Doonan, Barneys’ creative director, offered his take. He said sources. “IAC and Jared have been having Circulations’ Rapid Report, newsstand numbers said this collection is also a way to be “nimble” in these times and serious discussions,” said Andersen A spokeswoman for Bazaar have fallen 15 percent so far this year “an example of thinking outside the box.” for the Observer had no comment. — S.D.S. through April, to an average of about 155,000 Yves Saint Laurent chief executive officer Valerie Hermann said the copies. Comparatively, Vogue’s newsstand sales project also served as a way to “please” the customer, “to give him or her NOT MY FAULT: “I did not single-handedly kill are up 4 percent so far this year, averaging around [the desire] to buy. It services a customer to have a limited series.” newspapers,” Arianna Huffington exclaimed to a 400,000 copies through April, a bounce buoyed There is no imminent danger, though, of running out of fabrics, room full of writers and editors, on hand for the in part by landing First Lady Michelle Obama for its she said, adding: “We can do many things like this.” annual Newhouse School Mirror Awards on Tuesday. March cover. Elle’s newsstand sales through April “I want a safari jacket made out of Loulou de la Falaise’s old “I have had a lot of help from Craigslist.” She are off 16 percent; W’s single copy sales are off 9 safari jacket,” Doonan interjected. made a similar statement Monday evening at the percent, and, through March, InStyle’s single copy “We can do that for you,” Hermann said lightheartedly. “We can Webby Awards, but expanded on her take on the sales have dropped 20 percent compared to the find something very special for you.” media environment when she received the Fred same period last year. — S.D.S. 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JUNE 10, 2009 WWD.COM European Retailers Try to Stir Up Spending By Elena Berton shoppers and is, along with Marks & Spencer plc, one of the bellwethers for the coun- try’s retail sector. Total sales across its stores were down more than 8 percent com- PARIS — As European economies show signs the worst of the recession could be over, pared with the same week a year earlier. should fashion retailers look forward to improved sales? In the U.K., midmarket retailers are losing ground to rivals like New Look, whose Not so fast, experts warn: Despite encouraging signals, it is premature to expect prices are on average 20 to 30 percent lower than their more upmarket competitors. bolstered earnings and buoyant sales across Europe in the near term, as the bank- Reporting a 15 percent increase in full-year sales, New Look said sales growth has ruptcy of German department store group Arcandor on Tuesday attests. picked up in recent weeks, helped by strong demand for warmer weather apparel, Consumers remain reluctant to take risks in this environment, where unemployment especially gladiator sandals and summer dresses. concerns continue to weigh heavily on nonessential expenditures, said George Brown, Yet chief executive officer Carl McPhail has resisted drawing conclusions, prefer- managing director of U.K.-based Atlas Retail Consultants. Brown also noted retailers in ring to err on the side of caution, saying 2009 will be “another challenging year for Europe are keeping their entry-level price points low to encourage shoppers, a strategy the consumer.” unlikely to push up sales significantly. In Italy, the retail climate appears to be slightly sunnier, at least when it comes to shop- Still, keeping prices moderate is helping bolster consumer spending, as reported pers’ plans to restock their spring wardrobes with new clothes and shoes. by German market research firm GfK last month. Confcommercio, the retailers’ organization, said sales of shoes and apparel showed German consumers, previously known to stop spending at the slightest sign of eco- a slight improvement of 0.4 percent in April, stopping a decline that had lasted sev- nomic turmoil, have maintained their spending in the downturn, with GfK forecasting eral months. But against a backdrop of deep recession for Europe’s fourth-largest this would continue in June for the fourth month in a row. economy and rising unemployment, Confcommercio didn’t venture a forecast about a Germany is Europe’s largest economy and is possible turnaround based on these early signs. also the largest market for Swedish fashion re- “We will have to wait until May and June to con- tailer H&M, estimated by some analysts to have A New Look store in West London. clude if the market has stabilized,” said the as- reported strong sales in the country during sociation, which is Italy’s largest business orga- April. H&M, the world’s third-largest fashion nization and includes smaller retailers as well chain by revenue behind U.S.-based Gap and as national chains and department stores. Spain’s Inditex, declined to comment. On the other hand, Spain remains a much But if German consumers are keeping up tougher environment for retailers because the their spending, they are doing so selectively, as country’s once-booming real estate and con- shown by the woes of some domestic retailers. struction markets went into a free fall last year Embattled retail-to-travel group Arcandor, and unemployment is among Europe’s high- which owns the Karstadt department stores, on est. As a result, “consumers remain concerned Tuesday filed for bankruptcy after its request about the state of the economy,” Comptoir des for government aid was turned down, with Cotonniers’ Romestain said. While Spain’s con- some German politicians arguing the company tinuing economic woes could be a concern for had been in trouble before the economic crisis Inditex, parent of Zara, the Spanish-based fash- hit (see separate story). ion retailer is expected to continue to outper- Fashion house Escada has also been strug- form this market. gling with falling sales, and in a bid to secure Société Générale’s analyst Anne Critchlow new capital has sold off its midprice fashion reckons the company should benefit from sell- business Primera. ing Zara’s and Massimo Dutti’s low-priced high- In France, Europe’s second-largest economy, fashion look. consumer confidence has also held up. French Inditex is also relatively protected because it shoppers, for example, are keeping up their mostly sells to younger customers, who are less spending despite the severe recession — al- concerned about the troubled real estate market. though they’ve been encouraged by government For more on retail In addition, “Spain now represents less than 30 incentives and tax breaks. In April, French in Europe, see percent of Inditex’s sales, according to our esti- households spent more than analysts expected WWD.com. mates,” Critchlow said. on manufactured goods — a good proxy for con- Inditex is due to report first-quarter earn- sumer spending as a whole — as consumers took ings today. advantage of a government scheme to trade old Despite the difficult trading conditions in car models for new, less polluting vehicles. Spain, analysts at Deutsche Bank don’t expect The resilience of the French market comes Inditex to hike its markdown activity, having noted at the right time for Japanese fast-fashion giant the company’s inventory has been held very tight Uniqlo, which plans to open a sprawling flagship and that the promotional calendar has remained store in Paris in the fall. The Tokyo-based com- unchanged from last year. pany, known for its value-priced colorful cash- Unlike their U.S. counterparts, which have mere tops and casual basics, hopes to further discounted heavily and are now paying the price branch out in the rest of France if the launch is with sliding profits, European fashion retailers successful, according to Hideo Majima, direc- A Comptoir des Cotonniers appear to be far more cautious on this front. tor of global marketing and communication for store in Madrid. Special events or selective discounts — tactics Japan’s Fast Retailing Co. Ltd., which owns the borrowed from the upper end of the fashion mar- brand. Majima declined to provide sales projections for the upcoming Paris store. ket — appear instead to be the preferred choice for retailers in Europe because this French brand Comptoir des Cotonniers, also owned by Fast Retailing, remains upbeat helps protect margins while encouraging customers to spend. about Europe, even though some economies present brighter prospects than others. “People are not refusing to buy because prices are too high, but because they fear “Switzerland has been very good for us, because we are a relatively new brand the future and they are afraid of losing their jobs,” said Hermann Simon, president of there,” said chief operating officer Marianne Romestain. The brand first ventured into Simon-Kucher & Partners, a pricing consultancy headquartered in Germany. the country in 2008 with a corner in the Globus department store in Geneva. It has now Unlike luxury brands, which can end up tarnishing their exclusive image if they branched out in other major Swiss cities with outlets in Zurich, Bern and Basel, as well discount openly, fast-fashion retailers don’t run this risk with markdowns. But they as the Glattzentrum shopping mall near Zurich. still risk destroying their margins if they don’t get the balance between the extent of In the U.K., where the famously unreliable weather, not just the deteriorating econ- the cuts and the additional sales generated by markdowns and promotions. omy, can have a deep effect on consumer behavior, department store John Lewis has For example, J. Crew Group Inc.’s fiscal first-quarter profit tumbled 33 percent on found exceptionally warm weather kept more customers away from its stores at the end inventory markdowns, while sales rose 2 percent, to $336 million, compared with a of May. But if sales were harder to come by, some categories received a record uplift. the same period a year earlier. “Sunglasses were among the winners, up a whopping 74 percent on last year to “By how much do you have to cut prices to attract customers? It’s a high percent- achieve the buyership’s best sales since 2004,” the U.K.’s biggest department store age today in this climate,” Simon said. “If it’s too much, you give away margins, and chain said. But the sunny weather didn’t offer much cheer beyond sunglasses, sun you may not be getting that many additional customers.” care and outdoor furniture for John Lewis, which appeals to a middle-class core of — With contributions from Katya Foreman

In addition to 127 Karstadt and Karstadt Sport stores, the group is comprised of the Primondo catalogue di- Arcandor Group Files for Chapter 11 vision, which includes Quelle, Hess Natur, Baby Walz and more than 15 other specialized catalogue and home By Melissa Drier and landlords of the Karstadt department stores — to shopping businesses, and Thomas Cook, in which it work out an improved rescue and restructuring plan by holds a 52 percent stake. BERLIN — A day after being turned down for both fed- Tuesday noon so it could reapply for emergency credit. Arcandor said all divisions would remain in opera- eral aid and a government-backed emergency credit, The government had pressed for greater involvement on tion during the bankruptcy proceedings. Chief executive Arcandor Group on Tuesday filed for bankruptcy. the part of the major shareholders and banks in saving Karl-Gerhard Eick stated, “We will continue to fight to The department store, catalogue and travel group the group. retain as many jobs and locations as possible.” An inter- filed for bankruptcy protection in a district court in its Arcandor decided not to make a second application im insolvency administrator is expected to be appointed headquarter city of Essen, Germany. The filing affects with the government-owned KfW bank, suggesting the as early as today. the department store division Karstadt Warenhaus primary parties could not come to an agreement over A timetable for further meetings between Metro and GmbH, the catalogue division Primondo GmbH as well their rescue plan roles. The group has repeatedly said Arcandor over a possible merger of Metro’s Galeria as Quelle GmbH, but not the Thomas Cook travel group, it would face insolvency if it did not get federal aid by Kaufhof and Arcandor’s Karstadt department stores in which Arcandor holds a partial stake, or the home June 12, when a bank credit of 710 million euros, or has not been set. However, Metro reiterated its interest shopping channel HSE24. $979.8 million at current exchange, falls due. in integrating about 60 of the 90 Karstadt stores into its Late Monday, Arcandor said it was meeting with its Arcandor employs 68,283 worldwide, and about Galeria Kaufhof network. main shareholders — the private bank Sal. Oppenheim 55,000 in Germany. Arcandor said about 43,000 workers Toward the end of trading Tuesday, Arcandor’s and Madeleine Schickedanz, the major house banks in Germany would be affected by the bankruptcy. shares had fallen 53.3 percent to 0.58 euros, or 80 cents. A COMMUNITY OF STYLE AND SUBSTANCE

WOMENS, BETTER, BRIDGE, PREMIUM, CONTEMPORARY, YOUNG CONTEMPORARY, JUNIORS, ECOLLECTION, KIDS, SWIM, FOOTWEAR AND ACCESSORIES

Featuring: ANONAME JEANS · BUFFALO JEANS · DESIGUAL · DV BY DOLCE VITA · FRENZII · SOUL REVIVAL

THURSDAY ISLAND · TITAN INDUSTRIES · ZOA · BCBGENERATION · FRENCH CONNECTION

KENSIE GIRL · KERSH · MAC & JAC · MATTY M · MISS ME · STEVE MADDEN · JUNKFOOD

MIGHTY FINE · REPORT FOOTWEAR · XOXO · DAVID KAHN JEANS · NALLY & MILLIE · VOOM

XCVI · CARLOPIK · ELLIOT LAUREN · FABRIZIO GIANI · LINDA LUNDSTROM · BARBARA LESSER

EXIST · KAREN KANE · PRONOVIAS · HOBO INTERNATIONAL · SEASONAL WHISPERS

SONDRA ROBERTS · VERA BRADLEY · APPAREL VENTURES · GOTTEX · SAUVAGE · CACHAREL HAZEL KIDS · ROCK STAR BABY · STAR RIDE KIDS · C FOR YOU APPAREL · ROCKNSOCKS

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I<>@JK@:FEC@E<%:FD FI8K/..%,,+%+/*+ 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JUNE 10, 2009 Choice Ports 1961

PicksResort is shaping up to be a season with something for everyone. Isaac Mizrahi took his ladies to a sweet shop, offering dresses, suits and coats in candy-colored tweeds and prints. A little beaded T-shirt dress was reminiscent of Skittles, a black jumpsuit was meant to represent licorice and, of course, a yellow one- shoulder dress was a lemon drop. Meanwhile, Alberta Ferretti added her girly touch to the urban safari theme. “It’s all about dressing down colonial style, counterbalanced by precious textures and fluid shapes,” she said. To wit, she opted for earth tones, white and black, spruced up by tribal prints and luminous abstract designs while keeping shapes slim and pretty. And at Ports 1961, Tia Cibani tapped the offbeat Art Nouveau sensibilities of industrial designer Charles Mackintosh and his artist wife, Margaret MacDonald. Geometric beading in grid patterns and clean straight- edged silhouettes were balanced by sheer fabrics and slouchy-chic ruching.

Alberta Isaac Ferretti Mizrahi

Alberta Ferretti WWD, WEDNESDAY, JUNE 10, 2009 7 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS Isaac Mizrahi For more MORE FROM THE ASTOR TRIAL: Despite her $189 million fortune, three grand residences, mounds of jewels and a museum-quality art collection, an aging Brooke Astor couldn’t stop resort worrying. “I don’t have any money,” she fretted to Christopher Ely, her butler. collection “You shouldn’t worry about it,” Ely reassured her. “I’ll have to ask [Tony],” she would respond — her only son, Anthony Marshall, who was in images, see charge of his mother’s affairs. WWD.com. He’s now in criminal court for allegedly helping himself to her estate when Astor was suffering from Alzheimer’s, including unduly influencing his mother in order to sell off her prized Childe Hassam painting, “Up the Avenue from 34th Street.” It was sold for $10 million — with a $2 million commission to Marshall — while Astor was wintering in Palm Beach in 2002. “Now can I go buy some dresses?” Astor asked her son, Ely testified Tuesday. The next day, Astor went shopping. Meanwhile, her memory was failing. Astor confused her son with her late husband, and couldn’t remember names. “David, do I know that man?” she asked David Rockefeller when lunching with his brother Laurance, despite the fact that they were longtime friends, testified Rockefeller’s granddaughter, Miranda Kaiser. And when Astor signed a document granting Marshall an instant $5 million, she couldn’t remember doing so. “What did I sign?” she asked Ely. Kaiser also remembers asking Astor why she didn’t have any children after her son. Astor responded, “He was so unfortunate, I decided not to have any more.”

HONORING SUI: The Council of Fashion Designers of America isn’t the only organization tipping its hat to Anna Sui this year. The designer, who is receiving the CFDA Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award at Monday’s 2009 CFDA Fashion Awards, just made a quick trip to China, where she was honored at Saturday’s China Fashion Awards in Beijing. Sui took home the Shanghai Media Group’s Classic Icon of Fashion and Design award at the awards ceremony and gala, which included a fashion show featuring Anna Sui receiving her award. 30 looks from her fall collection. “This award is particularly meaningful to me because I am getting recognition from the home of my ancestors,” Sui said. “To be honored as the 2009 Fashion Icon of the Year at the China Fashion Awards has made my parents very proud.”

CFDA UPDATE: Speaking of the CFDA, with just a few days left before Monday’s 2009 CFDA Awards, details of the night are beginning to take shape. As in previous years, this year’s awards will include a number of notable presenters. Blake Lively will hand out the Swarovski Awards for women’s wear, men’s wear and accessories, and Diane Kruger has been tapped to present the Accessories Designer of the Year award. Antoine Arnault, Louis Vuitton’s head of communications, and Robert Duffy will present Marc Jacobs with his International Award.

MICHELLE OBAMA’S LONDON TOUR: She may be one of the world’s most-watched women, but that didn’t stop Michelle Obama from enjoying the trappings of a typical tourist visit to London this week. Obama, who arrived in the city Monday with her daughters, Sasha and Malia, made quite a splash when the family took in Westminster Abbey on Tuesday. Wearing a layered ensemble of yellow and lilac cardigans over an embroidered dress on top of gray trousers — no doubt picked with London’s erratic summer weather in mind — Obama waved to fellow sightseers after taking a private tour of the nearly 1,000-year-old abbey with her daughters, given by the Dean of Westminster. The visit was gleefully recorded by London’s Evening Standard, which ran a picture of Sasha and Malia Obama leaving the abbey on its front page Tuesday. Meanwhile, Obama further impressed the British press with her down-to- earth credentials by partaking of dinner at a regular London pub Monday evening — albeit one located on Mount Street, in London’s posh Mayfair area. A spokeswoman for the pub, called The Audley, said Sasha and Malia ate fish and chips. And, despite reports that “Harry Potter” fans Sasha and Malia were due to take a tour of the “Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows” film set Tuesday, a spokeswoman for Leavesden Studios, where the film is being shot, said no visit took place or was planned.

SEA AND BE SEEN: Environmental nonprofit Oceana celebrated World’s Ocean Day with three parties in as many days. On Monday, Nautica and Vanity Fair cohosted an affair in New York where everyone in attendance was on board with saving the planet. “Without water, forget about it, we’re all in trouble,” said Ramona Singer of “The Real Housewives of New York. “And skin care, I love skin care, with the algae, because algae is the building block of collagen and that’s important, right? I need algae in my skin care products.” “I love the water, I love what it has to offer and it’s free,” concurred Singer’s Garden State counterpart, Danielle Staub of “The Real Housewives of New Jersey.” You can go and you can be alone with your thoughts, and the waves wash away and when they come, it brings you a new hope, a burst of energy.” La Mer hosted a second gathering that same evening at a private home in Los Angeles where co-hosts January Jones and Virginia Madsen, Melora Hardin and Nicollette Sheridan told their tales of marine life. “I got [scuba] certified in Australia and saw an incredible spotted leopard shark that was 13 feet long,” said Hardin. Maureen Case’s recent swim with sharks during a trip to Belize got her blood pumping. “It’s a major rush,” raved the admitted adrenaline junkie. And then on Saturday, La Mer hosted another party with Oceana and Saks Fifth Avenue at actress Kate Walsh’s home. “I’ve always loved the ocean and grew up on the beach, so this was a natural for me,” Walsh said of her commitment to the charity. “When I went to college I wanted to be a marine biologist, but decided to become an actress instead so I could be everything.”

FAREWELL, MULBERRY: Lisa Montague, Mulberry’s chief operating officer and a driving force behind the brand’s growth, has quit her post at the British luxury accessories firm. “The time comes to move on, and I’d love to have a different experience elsewhere after six great years at Mulberry,” she told WWD. Montague, who left her station at the end of last month, said she is not headed anywhere else at the moment. Her position will not be filled, a Mulberry spokeswoman said. Montague had aggressively driven Mulberry’s retail and wholesale expansion internationally and steadily built up the accessories and footwear business.

COPPOLA’S PREMIERE ‘TETRO’: His daughter, Sofia, might be the stylish member of the clan, but Francis Ford Coppola tried his hand at the fashion circuit on Sunday night at a Gucci-sponsored screening of his latest flick, “Tetro,” at The Directors Guild Theater. The film stars Vincent Gallo aquino and khepri studio and newcomer Alden Ehrenreich as brothers who are coming to terms with the dark legacy of their

john Italian-Argentine family. At the screening after party, held at nearby Nobu Fifty Seven, Coppola explained why he found the story of two brothers so compelling. “Family is the way we learn to love, and therefore family is the way we learn to have our feelings really hurt,” he said. “But beyond that,

photos by brother is a metaphor for all people. Because, in the end, we’re all related to Genghis Khan.” 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JUNE 10, 2009 WWD.COM Marketing Luxury and Necessity: Redefining Values

By Dick Silverman “Americans have an aspirational ‘keeping up with the Joneses’ culture,’” she said. “It may not be in vogue now, but I really doubt luxury is going to go away.” Need versus want. Milton Pedraza, ceo of the Luxury Institute, agreed with Chen, citing members of a The view of American consumers about what they require, compared with what recent focus group who said they still seek unique design, quality, craftsmanship and they desire, is undergoing a fundamental shift. The staying power of that change is a service, and will pay for it “when their wallets are fat again.” core issue facing retailers and manufacturers trying to see around the post-recession Under current circumstances, however, the Pew survey found that eight in 10 curve and measure the mind-set of the buying public. adults have moved to economize in specific ways. Almost three in 10 said they have A study by the Pew Research Center’s Social and Demographic Trends project cut spending on liquor or cigarettes and one in four have cut back on cable or satellite showed people are trending back to basics. They are willing to live with less. television service or cancelled it. The April survey of 1,003 adults One in five said they have begun to mow aged 18 or over, “Luxury or Necessity? their own lawns or do home repairs instead The Public Makes a U-Turn,” found of paying others to do it. And, following the that about half acknowledged they What Americans NeeD: 2006-2009 2009 lead of First Lady Michelle Obama, about don’t really need items they once con- Percent rating each item as a necessity 2006 one in five said they plan to save money on sidered essential. groceries by planting a vegetable garden. “Yesterday’s necessities have be- 88% David Lipman, chairman of New come today’s luxuries, with the hard Car York-based Lipman Advertising, didn’t times forcing many Americans to 91% put a time stamp on the possible dura- change their minds about which goods tion of consumer frugality but observed and services they now consider essen- that the spending decline isn’t over. tial and which they could live without,” Clothes 66% “Shoppers are free-falling and they researchers said. Dryer 83% won’t start buying again until they hit Fifty-seven percent of the respon- the ground,” he said, adding that pur- dents said they were shopping more chases will be based on a product’s cre- at discounters — 63 percent of women Home air 54% ativity and value, not brand name. “I and 51 percent of men said they were conditioning 70% don’t think we’ll see another era of logo buying cheaper brands or have in- mania again in the next decade.” creased shopping at discount stores. James Burroughs, associate professor After a decade in which household Television 52% of commerce at the University of Virginia, who researches consumer behavior, gadgets of all kinds rose in popularity set 64% and use, the study found just 52 percent agreed the recession has taught shoppers of those polled said television was a ne- they can do without certain things, and cessity, down 12 percentage points from Home 50% they are not likely to soon go back to pur- 2006 — and the lowest level since 1973; computer chasing them the same way they did. microwave oven, 47 percent, a drop of 51% “People are asking if it is all worth it 21 percentage points in the last three — starting to realize the cost benefit was years; home air conditioner, 54 percent, 49% not what they believed, and are not will- Cell ing to work 80 to 90 hours a week any- a decrease of 16 percentage points, and Phone clothes dryer, 66 percent, a decrease of 49% more,” he said. 17 percentage points since 2006. The Pew survey revealed more about While those familiar items took a hit, how people behave rather than how they 47% the car held its own, with 88 percent view- Microwave perceive things, said Robert Thompson, ing it as a necessity, a drop of 3 percent. oven 68% professor of television and popular cul- In the throes of the instant informa- ture at Syracuse University. tion era, technology was the category “Ask the average person on the street, showing the most relative strength. High-speed 31% especially in these bad economic times, Forty-nine percent of those polled Internet 29% if they think air conditioning is a luxury rated a cell phone a necessity, flat with or necessity and they will say luxury,” 2006, possibly because consumers in- he said. “But a lot of people would find creasingly replace land-line phones Cable or 23% themselves put out and really miss it if it with cell phones, said Rich Morin, se- satellite was taken away.” television 33% nior writer at Pew Research Center. Consumers often give answers to sur- Most telling for the future: 60 percent veys they feel are expected, he added. of the adults under 30 years old said a 21% “Most people surveyed would say there’s cell phone was a necessity compared Dishwasher too much sex on TV, yet at the same time 35% with 38 percent of those 65 or older. they’re checking the survey box they’re Overall, 50 percent said a home com- flipping though the dial looking for the puter was essential, a 1 percent slide, and sexiest show they can find.” 31 percent said they couldn’t do without high-speed Internet, a rise of 2 percent. In the Pew study, new perceptions about what is necessary cut across all income The recession is redefining what people truly value after an era dating from the end of groups, with individuals who have suffered most in the recession naturally being World War II in which product advertising bombarded consumers and blurred the line be- those who have done the most cost-cutting. This may indicate that consumer reac- tween necessities and luxuries, said Bud Konheim, chief executive officer of Nicole Miller. tion to the weak economy is being propelled by a wide-ranging “new creed of thrift” “A feeling was created that the more you spend and buy, the better people will feel among people who have and have not experienced personal economic difficulties, about you,” he said. researchers said. The cold reality of economic hardship is changing that sensibility. One in four of those surveyed said they or a household member had lost jobs in the “What really is a necessity today? You have to pay your rent, you have to buy things past year; almost half said they or a household member had lost more than 20 percent to eat,” Konheim said. The downturn is “readjusting our mentalities to the point that in retirement or investment accounts, and one in five said they or household members people realize luxury may just be having a nice weekend with their family.” had problems making mortgage or rent payments. However, Christine Chen, specialty retail and apparel analyst for Needham & Co., “There’s nothing like economic bad times to focus the minds of Americans on what does not foresee a permanent change in spending habits. is important and isn’t important,” Pew’s Morin said. Recovery of Luxe Sector Not Seen Until 2011 By Valerie Seckler growth of about 4 percent in 2011 and 7 to 8 percent in eldest of the 80 million Baby Boomers in the U.S., now in 2012. We believe we are currently at the worst point of their early 60s and late 50s — people who may soon begin NEW YORK — The once impervious luxury goods sector is the global economy.” to buy fewer premium products as they reach retirement facing a worldwide setback in 2009 and a period of con- Forestalling a potential recovery on the high end, she or work fewer hours, and develop new priorities. solidation before a recovery expected in 2011, according said, is weaker consumption in key markets that fueled “In five years time, luxury players will need to add to new findings by Bain & Co. the sector’s growth — including Eastern Europe, Russia customers from younger generations,” D’Arpizio said. At a roundtable with the media Tuesday, Claudia and Japan — plus pullbacks in spending by aspirational “The most significant strategic questions is ‘How are the D’Arpizio, a Bain & Co. luxury specialist, forecast con- customers in the U.S., among other places. key customers changing?’” sumer spending for premium products this year will de- “The core luxury customer, the aspirational custom- Next year or in 2011, D’Arpizio said, “Expect to see cline by an average of 10 percent worldwide, to roughly er, currently is buying fewer items, is focusing on fewer a new wave of luxury goods consolidation, and merger 154 billion euros, or $216 billion. brands and is trading down,” D’Arpizio said. and acquisition activity. If you are bigger, you have more Such a falloff, after a 15-year run of growth, would Women’s luxury apparel is expected to feel the sharp- muscles — not just financially but managerially — to compare with luxury purchasing totaling 170 billion est spending cutbacks worldwide this year, with a project- overcome economic challenges.” euros, or $238 billion at current exchange, in 2008. ed decline of 15 percent; men’s and women’s watches and D’Arpizio noted such dealmaking and consolidation “We don’t expect a strong recovery until 2011,” said fine jewelry are projected to pull 12 percent less. is not likely to begin just yet, adding: “It is very difficult D’Arpizio, a partner in Bain’s Milan office. “Based on Even if business picks up in 2011, top-end brands will for smaller companies to sell at [depressed] prices and GDP estimates and other economic indicators, we see likely need to start scouting for consumers to replace the undervalue their companies.” WWD, WEDNESDAY, JUNE 10, 2009 9 WWD.COM Better Market Preview Michael Kors’ cotton Michael Simon’s cotton and sequin top and beaded shrug and Maggy Liz Claiborne New London’s polyester and York’s polyester and nylon dress. Stuart Shine On rayon skirt. Weitzman shoes. Designers in the better market are offering plenty of beading and sequins to spark up holiday sales. From a sexy gold tank to a festive shrug, the season is looking bright.

Cotton and sequin dress by DKNYC. Stuart Weitzman shoes. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: ALISON HAMILTON/FORD; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MICHELLE COURSEY FOR ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; FASHION ASSISTANT: MARCIE CHEUNG; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE ANTONIA BY STYLED CHEUNG; MARCIE ASSISTANT: FASHION PRIANO; TIMOTHY BY ARTISTS FOR COURSEY MICHELLE BY MAKEUP AND HAIR HAMILTON/FORD; ALISON MODEL: AQUINO; JOHN BY PHOTOS 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JUNE 10, 2009 WWD.COM

Bottega Veneta opened its seventh store in China. Alliance Boots Taps Hornby As Group Chief Executive LONDON — Andy Hornby has been named group chief executive of Alliance Boots, the health-and-beauty retailer and pharmaceuticals wholesaler. He will take on the new role July 1 and will report to executive chairman Stefano Pessina, who, with private equity fi rm Kohlberg Kravis Roberts & Co., acquired Alliance Boots in 2007. Hornby was chief executive of beleaguered bank HBOS before it was taken over by Lloyds TSB Group earlier this year. He also has a retail background, having held senior general management roles at supermarket chain ASDA, including a stint as managing director of its clothing business, George. “Whilst the existing management structure will continue un- changed, his appointment will enable me to dedicate even more of my time and energy to the development and growth of Alliance Boots,” stated Pessina. “Andy’s wealth of retail and marketing expe- rience will be an invaluable asset for the company, complementing Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga Open in Shanghai our existing skills and expertise.” Alliance Boots operates more than 3,200 health-and-beauty stores By Miles Socha and Luisa Zargani Balenciaga’s 1,600-square-foot wom- in nine countries. en’s and men’s boutique at Plaza 66, — Brid Costello GUCCI GROUP IS BUSY IN plus a 970-square-foot accessories- Shanghai these days. A Bottega only unit in the Hangzhou Tower The luxury goods group Veneta bag. in Hangzhou, mark the brand’s BEAUTY BEAT has within a matter of weeks fi rst stores in Mainland China. opened stores for its brands The two boutiques are di- Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga rectly owned by Balenciaga’s Zrihen Promoted at Clarins Groupe and Gucci — the latter two new Chinese subsidiary, with JONATHAN ZRIHEN, PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE opening last week. operational support from a officer of Clarins Groupe USA Inc., will take on the additional role Bottega Veneta opened local company. of president of the Clarins subsidiary in Canada, according to Philip its seventh store in China As with other Balenciaga Shearer, ceo of the Paris-based Clarins Groupe Worldwide. at Shanghai’s Golden Eagle boutiques, the decor was Prior to arriving in the U.S. in 2006, Zrihen headed the Canadian sub- Shopping Plaza last month, created by designer Nicolas sidiary, based in Montreal. Shearer noted that the American ceo is ex- the same mall where the Ghesquière in collaboration pected to create synergies between the U.S. and Canadian operations. Gucci brand last week opened with French artist Dominique Zrihen has been with Clarins since 1993, when he joined the compa- a 17,000-square-foot fl agship. Gonzales Foerster and leans ny as an intern, working in Spain and Australia for two years. He then Covering 4,406 square feet, the Bottega Veneta to the otherworldly, with iceberglike fi xtures relocated to Paris as export director for the U.K., Canada, Australia, store, designed by creative director Tomas and meteor-shaped wall pegs. Floor tiles were New Zealand and South Africa. Zrihen then moved to Singapore, where Maier, carries all the brand’s collections includ- sourced locally, with spaces divided into small he headed Asia-Pacifi c before assuming his duties in Montreal. ing women’s and men’s wear, leather goods, foot- hexagonal “pavilions” to create intimacy and wear and accessories. echo Chinese architectural traditions. Maier said he was “very pleased” with the com- The French fashion house plans to add two ad- Green & Spring Set to Launch pany’s “continuous developments in this impor- ditional Chinese boutiques this year, according to LONDON — Jessica and Peter Frankopan believe birds of a feather tant market. This is a signifi cant step towards our Isabelle Guichot, president and chief executive should fl ock together — in the bathroom. This month, the couple is in- objective of offering the entire range of Bottega offi cer, who described China’s long-term growth troducing Green & Spring, a 23-unit bath-and-body collection compris- Veneta products and exquisite shopping experi- potential as “proving to be sound and healthy ing three product lines, each decorated with birds native to Britain. ence to more customers in Mainland China.” even with the current global headwinds.” “The idea is to celebrate the British countryside,” said Jessica To mark the opening, Maier created a limited Balenciaga now operates 26 directly owned Frankopan, adding the brand was initially developed with ameni- edition bag named the Shanghai Duette in cop- stores and 17 franchises, in addition to its whole- ties and treatments in mind for Cowley Manor and its C.Side Spa, a per ostrich. sale distribution. hotel that she and her husband run in England’s Cotswolds. “All of the ingredients are from plants native to the U.K.” The Frankopans also run L’Hôtel and Le Restaurant in Paris and The Corner Club, a private members’ club in Oxford. Island Company Grows Retail Footprint Each of Green & Spring’s three lines is also supposed to recall a particular feature of By Elizabeth Thurman the countryside. For Items from instance, Relaxing’s Green & Spring. ISLAND COMPANY SEES ingredients, which in- opportunity in the econom- clude lavender, com- ic downturn. frey and rosemary, As many fi rms scale back are meant to conjure their retail components, the up aromatic kitchen seven-year-old resort brand herbs. Indulging, which is expanding with a free- includes rose, jasmine, standing store in Nantucket, elderflower and red Mass., after opening the clover, is said to evoke company’s first unit on an English country Worth Avenue in Palm garden. Meanwhile, Beach, Fla., in November. Revitalising, which “I’ve always done the was inspired by grassy opposite of what everybody fi elds, has peppermint, else has done. A lot of com- dandelion and fennel. panies are getting out of The brand’s product retail, but I’m getting in,” formulas include natu- said Spencer Antle, found- ral botanical ingredi- er and creative director, ents, spring water sourced from the Cowley estate and eschew para- citing the availability of bens, sodium lauryl sulfate and petrochemicals, as well as other quality space because of Island Company’s store controversial ingredients. the surge in vacancies and in Palm Beach, Fla. A shower and bath foam, bath oil, hand wash, hand cream and a lower rents. travel candle set are available in each of the three ranges, as well as Antle also is launch- additional items, such as shampoo and conditioner for the Relaxing ing a sun care line and plans to open two more you aren’t experimenting when things are bad, line and exfoliating body wash for Revitalising. Prices range from stores — one domestic and one international — then you’re not just missing a fantastic oppor- 14 pounds, or $22.50 at current exchange, for a 300-ml. pump bottle by yearend. tunity, you’re just putting your head in the sand of hand wash to 28 pounds, or $45, for a 185-ml. jar of Exfoliating The 1,000-square-foot Nantucket unit located on and hoping you don’t die.” Body Balm. A lip balm is also available for 7.50 pounds, or $12. fashionable Centre Street opened in May and sells Antle believes Island Company’s tropical es- Industry sources estimate Green & Spring will generate sales of the full Island Company line of women’s and men’s capism theme resonates more with customers $350,000 to $400,000 in its fi rst year. The brand bowed earlier this T-shirts, polos, shorts, sandals and swimwear, and now that they can experience the brand’s entire month at Liberty department store in London. It will also be carried women’s dresses, skirts and accessories. The mer- story in freestanding units, rather than shopping at greenandspring.com. International rollout plans have yet to be fi nal- chandise is 60 percent women’s and 40 percent a limited amount of merchandise in other stores. ized, although Green & Spring products will be used in L’Hôtel as well as men’s. Retail prices run from $40 to $225. Nantucket is an ideal market because of the Cowley Manor. Jessica Frankopan, who is the great-great-granddaughter “Our wholesale business is fl at, but for us affl uent resort area’s “more economically insu- of the founders of the Sainsbury’s supermarket chain, said she and her that’s down because we’ve grown at least 100 lated environment,” said Antle, who plans to mer- husband are planning to open a hotel in Amsterdam next year. percent every year since we started,” Antle said chandise it like the 450-square-foot Palm Beach A Green & Spring treatment line is also in the works for fall. of the brand, based in West Palm Beach, Fla. “If location, which sells $1,100 per square foot. — B.C. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JUNE 10, 2009 11 WWD.COM Exec Tech Sunglass Hut Brings ‘Social’ to Store BrandAlley Grows in Europe By Samantha Conti By Cate T. Corcoran Windows XP Embedded operating system. The uploaded photos show about half the users are men LONDON — Sven Lung believes newspaper groups SHOPPING FOR SHADES IS MORE INTERACTIVE and half women. The majority appear to be adults in their and online retailers make a potentially prosper- at Sunglass Hut, thanks to a new retail concept called 20s. Ninety percent send the photos to friends or post them ous match. SocialSun. By the end of this month, nine stores will be on Facebook. Lung, founder and chief executive offi cer of outfitted with SocialSun stations, where customers can Sunglass Hut’s inventory turns over about four times the French online private sales site BrandAlley, snap photos of themselves trying on sunglasses and share a year. A typical store has 700 to 900 stockkeeping units. expanded earlier this year into the U.K. with them with friends and fellow shoppers. Brands include Ray-Ban, Oakley, Persol, Prada, Versace, help from one of his newest shareholders, News About 15 percent of customers who walk into a store Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, DKNY and Ralph Lauren. International Ltd., the British newspaper division use the SocialSun station, and about 20 per- of Rupert Murdoch’s News Corp. cent of those return and use it again. The SocialSun Earlier this month, Rob Feldman, formerly “In the stores where it’s been up for station in a store. M&A and U.K. and Europe corporate development the past six months, customers come back director for News International, became ceo of again to post and share more pictures,” said BrandAlley’s U.K. division. Sunglass Hut vice president of marketing “Right now, newspapers have no capacity to Marcello Favagrossa. “It was clear it was ‘know’ their readers. Online retailers, on the other going to make the shopping experience at hand, can measure everything about their visitors Sunglass Hut more fun and engaging, and from one click. Investing in e-tailing is a way for encourage customers to come back to the newspapers to target specifi c communities, grab store more often.” margins and monetize their assets,” said Lung. Columbus, Ohio-based Sunglass Hut News International, which publishes titles in- started testing the concept in two area cluding The Times of London, The Sun and News stores in October last year. After exit inter- of the World, took a minority stake in BrandAlley views showed customers enjoyed the idea, earlier this year. Other investors include Banexi the retailer started rolling out the system to Ventures Partners and CDC Entreprises. New York, Santa Monica, Miami and Beverly The 38-year-old, French-born Lung, a former Hills last month. fund manager and serial Internet entrepreneur, At a 17-inch touch founded BrandAlley, now one of France’s top on- screen, customers can line sales sites, in 2005. take as many as 12 pho- The members-only site does not hold any mer- tos of themselves. They chandise, but acts as a discount shop window, hold- can compare their ap- Sunglass Hut plans to do more research ing fl ash sales of new and excess stock for more pearance in various on SocialSun this summer. If the concept is than 300 brands, including Alexander McQueen, sunglass styles side by well received, it could appear in as many Azzaro, Tom Ford, Yves Saint Laurent, Cartier, side, e-mail photos to as 300 more stores in 2010 and possibly in- Dior, Chopard and Lancôme. friends, post them on ternationally as well. The company oper- It offers up to 80 percent off retail prices, and Facebook or display im- ates about 1,600 stores in North America, has also held sales for nonfashion luxury items, ages in the store on a some of which are kiosks and stores including Champagne, foie gras and oysters. Lung giant screen. within department stores. Parent compa- said he expects revenue to double next year from A store manager A typical photo. ny Luxottica Group SpA, based in Milan, the current 50 million euros, or $69 million at cur- uses an iPod Touch to earned 379.7 million euros, or $558.5 mil- rent exchange, to 100 million euros, or $138 million. view and approve each lion, on sales of 5.2 billion euros, or $7.65 The company does not release profi t fi gures. photo before it is displayed in the store, using an applica- billion, in 2008, although earnings declined last year and Lung said the company has 4.5 million unique tion created for the purpose. The systems and software in the fi rst quarter of this year. visitors in France and one million in the U.K. are linked and managed from a central location. They The three-year plan, if implemented, would be a mul- annually, and ships about 150,000 products each were built and written by Micro Industries, an original timillion-dollar investment. month. He said there are no plans to expand equipment manufacturer in Columbus that has about 50 “We’re hoping we’re somehow contributing to making into the United States, and his immediate goal employees and specializes in the retail and medical in- the retail environment a more fun, interactive and inno- is to “penetrate and saturate” the French and dustries. The computers use Intel processors and run the vative place to be,” said Favagrossa. British markets. Beauty Sampling Moves to Facebook A VETERAN BEAUTY CONSULTANT AND A YOUTH MARKETING expert saw an opportunity in social media and teamed up to create Bits & Bytes Free Beauty Samples. The company, which samples and markets new — C.T.C.

beauty brands and products through Facebook, is a joint venture be- ▲ GPS GEM tween beauty consulting firm Excelsior Beauty of Paris and youth mar- The pearlescent, swirl-covered “White Pearl” keter Archrival of Lincoln, Neb. TomTom GPS navigation device includes A test in April with 500 participants garnered reviews from about 10 a directory of clothing and home stores. It percent of the participants and purchases from 1 percent. The cost is comes with a silk bag and is available this 30 to 50 cents a customer. month in the U.K. for 180 pounds, or $294. “We’re getting samples out, generating leads for potential sales, there’s the viral advertising aspect, and also the market research part of it,” said Excelsior Beauty chief operating offi cer Nick Hudson. Omaha-based Free Beauty Samples can share customer feedback with clients, and gauge the popularity of a new product against others based on recommendations. Sales that originate on Facebook and are com- pleted online may be traced, or a company can send out an 800 number ▲ NOT LOST with its samples. Designer Angel Chang, known Free Beauty Samples began with a profi le, an application and ads for tech-luxe mash-ups such on Facebook. The ads appeared on the profi les of women 18 and over as glow-in-the-dark cashmere who listed relevant keywords such as “beauty,” “fashion,” and “skin linings, is selling a limited care” in their interests. edition line of affordable T-shirts “We wanted to get people with a strong interest in beauty,” said on her Web site for the 10 Archrival partner and creative director Charles Hull. weeks she appears on Bravo’s Clicking on an ad takes the surfer to the application page, where “The Fashion Show.” The $80 they register with their address and skin type. They can send the appli- 40% OF CONSUMERS HAVE USED Map Tee is gray when cold, cation to friends. Then Free Beauty Samples sends out three samples THE “BUY ONLINE, PICK UP and shows a map of Manhattan in a high-quality red envelope, and several weeks later e-mails recipi- IN-STORE” OPTION. neighborhoods Chelsea, NoLIta ents to ask them to review the products. Reviews are posted on the and SoHo when heated. Wearers reviewer’s profi le and appear on the news feed friends see. Friends — Forrester Research Inc. can “customize” the $80 can click on the review to join. Coloring Tee, printed with the The company also has a Facebook profi le where fans can post com- names of the show’s contestants, ments and see company news. by coloring or crossing them out. Trial samples came from Nia 24, Canyon Ranch Your Transformation, Dr. Denese, Lea Journo, La Fleur Organique and The Faceshop. Most sampling is done in stores, and sales are not easy to trace. AMBER DE VOS PHOTO BY Brands also offer samples on their own Web sites. Free Beauty

Samples plans to do more tests in the coming months and is talking ▲ CLEAR EAR to potential clients. Logitech’s Ultimate Ears makes custom in-ear monitors Archrival’s clients include Red Bull and State Farm. Before co- for musicians who want to block out damaging sound and founding Excelsior in 2005, Hudson worked for Boots as vice president hear themselves sing and play onstage. The $399 UE 4 Pro of business development. Custom Monitors block up to 28 decibels of ambient noise — C.T.C. and hook into a wireless pack and soundboard. 12 WWD, wednesday, june 10, 2009 WWD.COM WWD West High-End Retail Bet in Pacific Northwest By Joanna Ramey Construction of The Shops at The Bravern, a luxury center in Bellevue, Wash., set to open in September with the Pacific Northwest’s first Neiman Marcus store, began in 2006 when the Seattle suburb and high-tech hub’s economy was thriving. The region hasn’t escaped the impact of the reces- sion, but developers and retailers believe the nexus of technology companies in the area, including Microsoft Corp., provides positioning for success even as the lux- ury sector faces a worldwide decline because of dimin- ished consumer spending. Brands that include Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Jimmy Choo, Piazza Sempione, Tory Burch, Salvatore Ferragamo, LTJ Arthur, Wolford, Brooks Brothers Country Club and DNA 2050 have signed leases for The Shops. With the exception of Vuitton, all will be opening their first stores in the Pacific Northwest when the complex launches Sept. 12. The 300,000-square-foot shopping center in downtown Bellevue, inspired by European villages, is part of a 1.6 million-square-foot, $500 million-plus office, condominium and retail development called The Bravern that covers five For more acres. The retail component is 82 percent leased. “The [local] economy is very similar to what is going images, see on most everywhere else in the nation,” said Seattle WWD.com. economist and forecaster Dick Conway, founder of Dick A rendering of a courtyard with an entrance Conway & Associates, who predicted the unemployment to Neiman Marcus and valet parking. rate in the Seattle-Bellevue-Tacoma metropolitan area of 3.2 million people would rise to a recession peak of based developer of The Bravern complex, said The 9.7 percent in the first quarter of 2010, compared with Shops will help to fill a high-end fashion void, as well as the latest rate of 7.9 percent. create a dining destination. However, when The Shops open Sept. 12, Conway “There is still very limited luxury fashion retail in said the Seattle-area economy may deal from relative this market and there is still a high concentration of strength given the area’s wealth, much of it concentrated wealth,” Woodworth said. in Bellevue and other neighboring municipalities in an Last year, the average household income for the area called the Eastside, a 15-minute drive from Seattle, Eastside was $102,191, compared with $73,199 in Seattle across Lake Washington, with a combined population of and $67,918 nationwide, according to a survey by the 500,000. Seattle’s population is about 600,000. market research company Claritas. Moreover, 22 percent “You still have a large fraction of the market doing of Eastside households reported disposable incomes reasonably well,” Conway said. “On the other hand, you of more than $100,000, compared with 11.8 percent in will still see some cuts in discretionary spending.” Seattle and 9.3 percent nationwide. The 125,000-square-foot, three-floor Neiman Marcus With 122,000 residents, much of the City of Bellevue store anchors The Shops, which devotes an additional consists of scenic, woodsy, suburban-style neighbor- 71,000 square feet to other luxury fashion retail. It also hoods, as well as hilly, affluent enclaves overlooking features restaurants, including an outpost of Terrance Lake Washington. About 10,000 people live downtown in Brennan’s Artisanal in New York, a David Barton gym new apartments and condominiums, and Bellevue has and a Red Door spa. An underground garage has spaces the largest population in the Eastside area. for 3,100 cars. It is also a regional employment hub, and about 130,000 Storefronts open onto two streets, as well as a cov- A rendering of the two-level promenade. jobs are based in the city. In the last decade there has ered and landscaped two-level promenade, with en- been an office-building boom that has transformed down- trances to Neiman Marcus. The promenade connects town, which now has 40,000 workers, with a heavy focus in two arrival courtyards, where there is valet parking, as well as more shops and en- software, e-commerce, bio-tech and engineering. T-Mobile, Expedia Inc., Coinstar Inc. trances to Neiman’s, in a neighborhood of high-rise offices and condos. and Drugstore.com are among companies based in the city. By 2020, an 18-mile light-rail Aside from a few independent boutiques on a two-block stretch of Main Street, is expected to link Seattle to Bellevue and the Microsoft headquarters in Redmond. the closest retailing to The Shops is a 15-minute walk to Bellevue Square, a regional Even in the recession, there’s still interest among national and international shopping mall with a contingent of high-end stores such as Burberry — its first Pacific fashion retailers to locate in Seattle or Bellevue, said retail broker Brynn Estelle Northwest unit — as well as Seattle-based Nordstrom. The other anchors are Macy’s Telkamp, a partner with Real Retail, Seattle. And finding available street-level space and J.C. Penney. in Seattle’s popular retail neighborhoods remains a challenge, Telkamp said, citing Microsoft, based in neighboring Redmond, Wash., occupies The Bravern’s two of- some locations near Nordstrom’s flagship on Pine Street at Sixth Avenue or on Fifth fice towers with 755,000 square feet of space and 2,300 employees. A pair of condo- Avenue, where Barneys New York, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and St. John have stores. minium towers is still under construction. The 455 luxury units range from $950,000 Likewise, space at Bellevue Square is tight, with a vacancy rate of 3 to 5 percent, to $2 million for two-bedroom units, and three-bedroom penthouses for as much as $4 according to management. million. They are just 25 percent sold. Bellevue Square, privately and locally owned by the Kemper Development Co., is the Neiman Marcus chief executive officer Karen Katz said the 40-store Dallas-based cornerstone of a larger mixed-use project of two hotels, office buildings and satellite retailer studied the Seattle market for years before committing to The Shops three malls covering several city blocks and connected by pedestrian sky bridges over down- years ago. Research included one-on-one interviews conducted in Eastside and town thoroughfares. The properties are collectively known as the Bellevue Collection. Seattle homes to learn about high-end shopping habits, pastimes and civic interests. Chief executive officer Kemper Freeman’s father started Bellevue Square in 1946. “We compared the results to other existing Neiman Marcus locations,” finding Once the economy rights itself, Freeman plans to expand the Bellevue Collection and similarities, Katz said, dispelling a popular stereotype of Seattle-area residents as develop an adjacent 1.4 million-square-foot mixed-used project, including 300,000 being more enthusiastic about hiking in nearby evergreen national parks like Mount square feet of high-end fashion retail, which would directly compete with The Shops Rainier than buying fashion. at The Bravern. The project is undergoing city review. As for opening a store in a weakened economy that has hit Neiman’s hard as sales However, it might take two more years before the local economy starts revving up. have fallen along with consumer spending, Katz said, “From what we’re reading, the By 2012, job growth in the Seattle area should improve to pre-recession levels, econo- Seattle-Bellevue market is holding up better than some of the other markets where mist Conway said, when the unemployment rate was 4 percent, and its diverse economy we have stores.” — with aviation, wood products, fish processing, e-commerce, financial services and in- Tom Woodworth, senior investment director of Schnitzer West LLC, the Seattle- ternational trade sectors in addition to technology — was growing 3 percent annually.

Santa Monica, Calif. “Opening a store in Los Angeles was an quirky clothing brand Moods of Norway opening last month. And west watch intuitive decision...and we have a strong client base there,” said Ari Soffer, designer of custom leather goods for clients such as JOYCE AZRIA RETURNS: Joyce Azria has been named creative founder and owner Liliana Casabal. Also in Malibu, designer Arnold Schwarzenegger and Tommy Lee, opened his first store director of BCBGeneration, a young contemporary brand Kevan Hall and Japanese pearl specialist Mikimoto are teaming Thursday, Soffer Ari, on South Robertson. The 1,500-square- launched in fall 2008. Azria, the eldest daughter of Max up on a retail gallery to be open from June 18 to 21 at the new foot unit carries everything from leather pants to leather Azria, founder and chief executive officer of BCBG Max Azria open-air shopping center the Lumber Yard. The store will feature furniture, ranging from $100 to $150,000. “We have it built Group Inc., launched and served as design director of BCBG Mikimoto pearl rope necklaces and dangling earrings, and Kevan now and when the economy turns around, we’re all set,” Soffer Max Azria Swim from 2002 to 2004 before starting her own Hall separates in sherbet hues. — M.M. and Rachel Brown said. — Anne Riley-Katz and Ericka Franklin venture, the contemporary line Joyann. She will oversee design, creative materials and marketing for the brand beginning with ON THE MOVE: Christian Louboutin is stepping up its Los FLUXUS LAUNCHES RETAIL: Fluxus, the two-year-old Los Angeles- the fall-holiday season. — Marcy Medina Angeles digs, moving from Burton Way to a larger space on based cotton jersey sportswear line that’s a favorite of Halle Berry, the north end of Robertson Boulevard, across the street from Kate Hudson and Sienna Miller, has opened its first store at 202 MALIBU SCENE: Morgane Le Fay opened its fourth store, a Phillip Lim. The store will open this fall. In addition, Kenzo, Larchmont Boulevard in Los Angeles. The 900-square-foot loftlike 1,414-square-foot space, Thursday at the Malibu Country Mart long absent from the U.S. market, is set to move to Robertson space carries the full line of T-shirts, dresses, jackets and bottoms in Malibu, Calif. The company has Manhattan boutiques in and occupy a small storefront just north of Beverly Boulevard. retailing from $28 to $180. Fluxus is also sold in Nordstrom, SoHo and on Madison Avenue and one on Montana Avenue in The southern end of the street is seeing activity as well, with Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue and Fred Segal. — M.M. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JUNE 10, 2009 13 WWD.COM New Versace, Jil Sander Execs in Place Continued from page one into such Internet technologies as Twitter and social networking is also an avenue for his plans for the brand, but praised its international scope, well-established core val- growth, Cremonesi said. ues and quality. “This is a great challenge for me. I appreciate the fact that Versace His arrival to Jil Sander in September marked his entrance into the luxury goods has lately cleaned up its act, but I want to examine the company before I make any sector after working in such fi elds as engineering, information technology, infra- proposals,” said Ferraris, adding that, while it isn’t structures and construction. He became a Jil Sander a public company, Versace’s “board is structured to board member in January. resemble one.” Cremonesi’s early days at the fashion company He said he has very high regard for Donatella saw upheaval as Jil Sander’s then-owner, Change Versace and her “modern and international de- Capital Partners, a London-based private equity sign team.” fund, sold it to Onward Holdings, the Tokyo-listed For her part, Donatella Versace said she is excited apparel group, and its European subsidiary Gibò about the arrival of Ferraris after she; her brother, Co. SpA. Santo Versace, and Allegra Beck, her daughter and Ferraris, 51, also witnessed his share of change majority shareholder, increasingly disagreed with Di while running Jil Sander, where he was said to Risio’s strategy. There were widespread press reports be increasingly unhappy under its new owners. that Di Risio and Donatella Versace battled over the He joined Jil Sander from Gucci in 2004 when executive’s cost-cutting moves, although that was de- the German fashion house was still owned by the nied by the company. The board hired Bain & Co. to Prada Group. help develop a three-year plan on the brand’s future At Gucci, where he operated under Domenico De direction, which some sources speculated may have Sole’s wing, Ferraris was instrumental in managing irked Di Risio. Sources also said the Versaces be- the women’s ready-to-wear manufacturing arm when lieved Di Risio wasn’t reacting quickly enough to the the company took production in house. sea change in the luxury market since the recession Gian During his fi ve years at Jil Sander, Ferraris re- began to bite hard last fall. Alessandro Giacomo positioned the brand while grappling with changes “I have had the chance to spend some time with Cremonesi Ferraris in ownership; the storm caused by Jil Sander, the [Ferraris], and he has great experience in our in- founder and designer, quitting and returning twice, dustry. He did a fantastic job at Jil Sander, and I am and the appointment in 2005 of Raf Simons as cre- sure he will do a great job for Versace, too,” Donatella ative director. Versace said. Even with such turmoil, he managed to grow Ferraris praised Cremonesi, whose extensive ré- This is a great challenge for me. I rtw sales and the accessories division, and in- sumé includes stints in Mexico, the U.S. and Italy. “ troduce new categories such as fi ne jewelry pro- “I have worked very closely with Mr. Ferraris these appreciate the fact that Versace has duced by Damiani, a made-to-measure service for past [nine] months, and he was a great point of refer- men and eyewear. ence. I obviously want to maintain Jil Sander’s refi ne- lately cleaned up its act, but I want The changes at two of Milan’s major fashion hous- ment and quality and exploit Onward’s vertical struc- es are unlikely to be the last, however. It is still un- ture and retail network,” said Cremonesi, 41, referring to examine the company before I clear where Di Risio is headed next, although his to Jil Sander’s parent company, Onward Holdings Co. make any proposals. name has been linked to Roberto Cavalli, which is Ltd. of Japan. in the process of selling a 30 percent stake to Italian Boosting communication between the company — Gian Giacomo” Ferraris, Versace SpA fund Clessidra. Joining a private equity fund could and its wholesalers and fi nal consumers by tapping also be an option. Oxford to Cut Ben Sherman Lines By Evan Clark THE RECESSION HAS HAD A SLIMMING EFFECT ON NEARLY all businesses, including Oxford Industries Inc., which trimmed $21 million in expenses in the first quarter and said it would discon- tinue its Ben Sherman footwear and kids’ lines. J. Hicks Lanier, chairman and chief executive when others fail... offi cer, said footwear for the brand would be farmed out, but that the kids’ portion would suffer the fate of so many other auxiliary businesses in fashion. “It was fun and cute, but there wasn’t a waitex critical mass there,” Lanier said on a confer- provides ence call with Wall Street. “In this environ- WWD ment, we didn’t have the luxury of ‘fun and Complete end-to-end supply chain solutions cute’ without the fi nancial reward.” Men’s Oxford’s fi rst-quarter profi ts fell 31.6 percent to $6.5 million, or 42 cents a diluted share, from $9.5 million, or 59 • 28 years of experience in the garment industry cents, a year ago. Sales for the quarter ended May 2 fell 20.6 per- cent to $216.7 million from $272.9 million. The Atlanta-based fi rm • 3 million square feet of modern reduced selling, general and administrative expenses to $78.7 mil- lion from $99.6 million. distribution facilities in NY, NJ, & LA Profi ts far outstripped the 25 cents Wall Street had penciled in. Ben Sherman had operating losses of $2 million, versus in- • EDI, UCC128, ASN, TMS, scan & pack capability come of $300,000 a year earlier, on a 33.9 percent drop in sales to $24.2 million. The Ben Sherman business was hurt by a 26 • Pick, pack & ship by piece or pre-packed carton percent drop in the average exchange rate between the pound and the dollar. • GOH/Flatpack storage by carton/unit/sq.ft Oxford’s largest business, Tommy Bahama, recorded a 36.9 per- cent decline in operating income to $12.3 million on a 23.9 per- • Air/Sea world-wide cargo forwarding cent drop in sales to $98.4 million. The Oxford Apparel and Lanier Clothes units were both profi table on an operating basis. • Garment and label manufacturing • Hoffman Press / Steam tunnel Dick Baker to Be Honored at Service • 3000 world-wide service specialists A MEMORIAL SERVICE FOR DICK BAKER, A FORMER president of Ocean Pacific, will be held at 6 p.m. June 25 at The Times Center, 242 West 41st St. in Manhattan. For a risk-free assessment: Baker, a 35-year veteran of the apparel industry, died of prostate cancer April 14 at the age of 62. NY - Barry: (212) 967-8100 Attendees should RSVP to [email protected] to be added to the list for admittance. Personal notes may be included with the LA - Alfred: (909) 476-8128 RSVP, which will be compiled and bound into a book for Baker’s wife, Una, and their sons, Jack and Ryan. Email: [email protected] In lieu of fl owers, donations may be made to the San Clemente High School Educational Foundation, at schsef.org, or the SIMA hu- www.waitex.com manitarian and educational funds at sima.com. 14 WWD, wednesday, june 10, 2009 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes and more Talbots Logs Loss, Plans Staff Reduction financial news, see WWD.com / business-news. By Vicki M. Young tion came a day after the women’s spe- cialty chain said it had agreed to sell its 10 Best Performers JUST A DAY AFTER SAYING IT HAD J. Jill brand to an affiliate of Golden Gate an agreement in place to rid itself of the Capital for $75 million with a closing ex- DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt problematic J. Jill brand, The Talbots pected during the current second quarter. Inc. Tuesday continued to pare down its Talbots will retain 75 of the stores with High Low Last %Change operations by reducing the workforce in plans to close them within two months. its Hingham, Mass., headquarters. “The reaction to our merchandise As it posted weaker first-quarter re- and our catalogue presentation contin- 10.48 8.95 Movado (MOV) 90.0 902751 10.24 +26.42 sults, the firm said it would reduce its ues to be more positive than a year ago,” corporate head count by 20 percent to said Trudy F. Sullivan, president and 20.92 18.67 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 15.8 3549253 20.21 +13.09 move closer to its goal of $150 million in chief executive officer, in a conference expense savings. As of April, the retailer call with Wall Street analysts. 5.78 5.15 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 953687 5.73 +10.83 had identified $100 million in annualized She noted the company did have cost reductions and now has pinpointed some issues with its color assortment another $25 million in reductions on its early in the quarter, but has since re- 12.34 11.03 Oxford (OXM) - 275108 12.16 +10.14 way to the final goal of $150 million. adjusted the merchandise mix, selling The company said its headquarters more pink and blue that have been bet- 11.99 10.57 G-III Apparel (GIII) - 240718 11.49 +9.53 head count is 1,610, which would put the ter received by customers. job losses at about 322. She noted a “substantial rebound” 17.03 15.87 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 15.6 1572710 16.9 +8.19 For the 13 weeks ended May 2, the net in merchandise margin from the fourth loss was $23.6 million, or 44 cents a share, quarter and a 21 percent reduction in 9.58 8.80 Perry Ellis (PERY) - 100495 9.58 +7.28 against income of $1.6 million, or 3 cents, inventory per square foot over the com- in the comparable three months a year ago. parable 2008 period. 15.74 14.25 Destination Maternity (DEST) - 25252 15.32 +7.06 Excluding discontinued operations but New to the chain is the Talbots Upscale including restructuring and impairment Outlet concept, a growth initiative un- charges, the loss per share was 35 cents, 14 veiled in April 2008. Eight concept stores 0.62 0.58 Aeffe * (AEF:MI) 32.1 570064 0.61 +7.03 cents better than analysts expected. opened in May, and the company expects Sales dropped 26.2 percent to $306.2 to open a total of 12 sites this year. The 7.87 7.30 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) - 149937 7.44 +5.53 million from $414.8 million. Retail sales opening price points are 30 to 40 percent declined 25.7 percent to $256.4 million below those of the core Talbots chain. from $345.1 million, while comparable- In addition, the company said it store sales fell 26.9 percent. Direct mar- hopes to reach an agreement with Li keting sales decreased 28.6 percent to & Fung Ltd. by September. The global 10 Worst Performers $49.8 million from $69.7 million. sourcing agreement, if reached, would The head count reduction includes enable Talbots to improve its speed-to- DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt the elimination of open positions and market as well as streamline its cost is expected to produce annualized sav- structure, Sullivan told analysts. High Low Last %Change ings of $21 million. Expenses associ- Excluding restructuring and impair- ated with the reduction, mostly for sev- ment charges, the women’s specialty re- erance and related benefits, were $5.4 tailer expects a loss of between 50 cents 0.49 0.21 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 15743382 0.24 -50.00 million and were included first-quarter and 58 cents during the second quarter. restructuring charges. Shares ended the day at $5.01, up 1 The news of the head count reduc- cent, or 0.2 percent. 3.15 2.74 Quiksilver (ZQK) - 8530412 2.91 -19.61 6.90 6.43 CBL (CBL) 94.5 7271023 6.57 -13.10

House Bill Boosts Trade Agency Spending 6.65 5.90 Syms (SYMS) - 33424 6.00 -8.95 By Kristi Ellis within the Import Administration. “All of the signs have been pointing for 1.28 1.16 Bluefly (BFLY) - 6000 1.28 -8.57 WASHINGTON — The House Appro- some time now that we’re going to see more priations Committee approved a $64.4 initiatives from a compliance perspective 8.94 8.06 Brown Shoe (BWS) - 609122 8.18 -7.47 billion spending bill Tuesday that would and more efforts to review compliance boost the budgets of the nation’s two top with China to make sure China is meeting trade agencies and also recommended its requirements,” said Stephen Lamar, 1.56 1.42 Unifi (UFI) - 144787 1.43 -6.54 the Obama administration increase executive vice president at the American funding for China enforcement offices Apparel & Footwear Association. “This 11.35 10.47 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 14.6 77929 10.76 -4.44 and trade remedy oversight. [funding] seems to put the money behind The committee approved the bill by where a lot of rhetoric has been.” 3.50 3.17 Glimcher (GRT) - 288724 3.30 -4.35 voice vote and sent it to the full House, Lamar said House lawmakers are di- which is slated to take it up on Tuesday. recting funding into trade remedy offices 14.93 14.09 Acadia (AKR) 17.8 799125 14.15 -4.00 The Senate will also craft its own in expectation of increased demand in spending bill for these agencies and the antidumping and countervailing duty European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on two bills will then have to be reconciled cases in the wake of a Commerce deci- * Editor’s note: the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss in conference. sion that allowed cases to be filed against francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. The bill reflects the majority nonmarket economies such as China. Democrats’ emphasis on continuing to “The committee is concerned that the reshape the trade agenda by tightening current part of tariff reduction negotia- up the enforcement of U.S. trade remedy tions under the Doha Round will result Movado Expects Second-Half Improvement laws and hews closely to the Obama ad- in a nonreciprocal arrangement detri- ministration’s own budget request and mental to United States manufacturers,” By Matthew Lynch continue through the third and fourth trade agenda. It would increase the fund- the panel stated in the report. quarter for the holiday season.” ing for the U.S. Trade Representative’s Auggie Tantillo, executive director of SHARES OF MOVADO GROUP INC. AD- While “challenged by our retail cus- office to $48.3 million for fiscal year 2010 the American Manufacturing Trade Action vanced more than 25 percent Tuesday tomers’ relentless focus on lowering their from the $47.2 million enacted in fiscal Coalition, said textile groups have asked after the watchmaker reported a smaller inventory,” he said, “we expect to see an year 2009. USTR negotiates free trade Congress to continue to press for equal first-quarter loss and forecast higher full- improvement in these trends beginning agreements and files unfair trade cases tariff cuts among all developing countries, year profits than analysts had expected. in the second half of this year as our cus- against foreign countries. particularly China, on textile and apparel Still, with sales down one-third be- tomers start to replenish inventory ahead The House spending measure imports in the global trade round. cause of lower consumer demand and of the holiday season.” would also increase the Commerce “We hope this administration pays at- correspondingly tight inventory man- Based on that outlook, the company Department’s International Trade tention to it, unlike the previous one,” agement by retailers, the Paramus, N.J.- expects earnings per share of 50 cents for Administration by 3 percent to $444.5 said Tantillo. based firm recorded a loss of $9 million, all of fiscal 2010 compared with 9 cents in million over the $429.9 million bud- The textile industry would also receive or 37 cents a diluted share, in the three 2009. The forecast helped propel Movado’s get in fiscal year 2009. The Import some funding, at much lower levels than months ended April 30, compared with shares up $2.14, or 26.4 percent, to $10.24, Administration, a division of the ITA, is in the past, in the spending bill for uni- net income of $1.2 million, or 5 cents, in their highest close since Jan. 6. responsible for monitoring textiles and versity consortiums that link the textile the first quarter of 2008. Analysts polled Movado used the first quarter to un- apparel, and investigating antidumping and fiber industries to leading research by Yahoo Finance had expected a loss of load some of its own inventory, as it and countervailing duty trade cases. and educational programs, including the 48 cents. sold $4.3 million worth of discontinued House lawmakers urged the Obama National Textile Center, slated to receive Sales in the quarter fell 33.3 percent to product in the three months. The sales administration in a nonbinding report ac- $1.8 million in funding, and the Textile/ $67.6 million from $101.4 million in 2008. dragged on Movado’s gross margin, caus- companying the spending bill to designate Clothing Technology Corp., a supply chain On a conference call with investors, ing it to fall 940 basis points to 54.8 per- a minimum of $7 million for Commerce’s consortium slated to receive $965,000. In president and chief executive officer cent from 64.2 percent a year ago. Office of China Compliance in fiscal year total, the bill proposes $3.7 million in Efraim Grinberg was optimistic about Cost cutting is expected to create $50 2010, an increase of $1.1 million over fiscal funding for textile research programs, improving sales in the second half, not- million to $60 million in annual savings, year 2009. The panel also recommended a significantly below the $13.5 million a co- ing that “retailers have basically been most of which are expected to be realized $200,000 increase in funds to $4.4 million alition of industry groups requested in a living off of their existing inventory to this year, said Rick Cote, executive vice for the China Countervailing Duty Group letter to Congress in February. a great extent. We don’t believe that can president and chief operating officer. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JUNE 10, 2009 15

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

SALESPERSON Seeking experienced sales person for premium denim line. Candidate must be able to strive in a fast paced environ- ment. Must have contemporary wholesale experience. Must also be able travel for regional markets and road work. Denim experience a plus. Email all resumes to: [email protected]

DIRECTOR OF RETAIL STORES CFO Large, privately held apparel company has an immediate The ideal candidate: opportunity for a Chief Financial Officer reporting directly to • has a minimum of 3 years experience in fashion retail management or the President. The CFO is responsible for the day-to-day equivalent buying experience in a contemporary designer or luxury envi- financial operations of the company. The candidate must ronment have strong financial and managerial skills, have extensive • has experience managing and forecasting a sales plan, preparing open experience in financial planning and budgeting, and knowl- to buy, strategizing sales plan by location, and analyzing results edge of working with a factor. The Company offers a • has had multi store accountability competitive compensation package. Please submit resumes to: [email protected], on behalf of the Company. • is hands-on Fully experienced, dynamic sales and • has experience in opening stores design denim/ sportswear team, with • has a high taste level, and a strong fashion sense already existing infrarstructure with a VP – Merchandising & • has visual merchandising/presentation experience strong existing import sourcing and national account basis. Seeking oppor- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTION Product Development • is a strong leader with a proven track record of recruiting, training, tunity to build a profitable business Part of House of Pearl Group , we are a inspiring and retaining store teams to achieve desired results with the backing of sound financial PRODUCTIONS COORDINATOR-SENIOR NY based Woven fashion apparel resources. E-mail: Full service shop to the trade. Importer seeks senior production coordi- import company , doing business at Please send your resume to: [email protected] [email protected] Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. nator to oversee our fast paced design moderate price points as DCC and & technical teams with our overseas Kool Hearts and private label Fax: 626.457.8439 Printing Service factories. Must have excellent communica- programs. We have established over High tech reactive digital prints on tion skills, be extremely organized, have the years as a dominant import vendor knits and woven in any size; fast service. 5 years minimum of garment industry for Dept. stores , specialty chains , and Contact: [email protected] experience and thorough knowledge of discounters in constructed shirting as the production process. Email resume: well as casual sportswear. This is a full Production Package [email protected] time position and the person we are Domestic and China; computerized 1st looking will lead a team of senior pattern through prod’n. Specializing in designers , graphic artists , and CAD private label. Any style; Any quantity. assistants , have ability to travel and Spaces High quality; Best service . 212-819-0188 shop , provide correct direction , lead- TD’S TD’S TD’S I NEED TD’S! ing to continued success and improve- Sr Jacket $115K, Tech Pants $85K, ment in our business. Knowledge of Tech Asian Mkts $85K, Assoc Dress retail management is critical .Compa- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, & Outerwear $65K, Assoc Pants & ny offers attractive salary and incen- Bottoms $65K, Sweaters & Knits $$$ tives. The person must have at least 10 PRODUCTIONS [email protected] 212-947-3400 years experience and no contractual COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. limitation to make a move in your Call Sherry 212-719-0622. career. Kindly send detailed resume to: [email protected]. Patterns, Samples, We are interested in Productions, Cutting Buying Surplus Fabrics & Stock Any styles. Fine, fast work. lots irrespective of quantity. Contact Call Lucy 212-840-1136 us: 646.642.3002 / [email protected]

WOMEN’S NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Better designer brand is seeking a qualified National Sales Manager to Accountant For Women’s run major department store & special- ty store business. Minimum of 7 years Sportswear Wholesaler experience & must have existing rela- Must have at least 5-7 years experi- PRODUCTION SALES PROFESSIONALS tionships in the industry. This job ence. Garment, wholesale or trading entails manaing a national sales team. experience preferred. Position COORDINATOR For details, visit our website: Merchandising skills required. Knowl- reports to President of New York and Busy established Outerwear Co. seeks edge of retail math required. Dynamic interacts with New York sales office. detail oriented individual to source ChristopherFischer.com/ & fast paced environment. Full health For more information, please see our and handle production with good employment benefits. Fax: 212-869-5965 ad on WWDCareers.com follow up skills with overseas vendors. Should be able to liaison between Oroduction and Sales. Knowledge of DESIGN ASSISTANT specing, computer skills and sense of Need talented & dynamic recent grad urgency a +. Please e-mail with salary with proficient computer skills in req. to: [email protected] Contemporary/Missy Sweaters Photoshop & illustrator for ladies bet- Must have strong contacts with dept ter sportswear company. Great work stores/catalogues & chains. Private atmosphere Medical and 401K plan Label sweater exp a must. Please e-mail resumes to: Technical Designer/ Email: [email protected] [email protected] Patternmaker LICENSING COORDINATOR Importer seeks technical designer/ pat- SALESPERSON Provide internal & external coordination ternmaker to make first fit patters, Woman’s sptsr mfr seeks top salesperson Showroom/Loft Display Space which supports & advances the annual grade specs, comment on fit samples to launch new Euro collection alongside business plan & strategies dev by Accesso- and communicate with overseas factories. established domestic line specializing 1100 Square Feet ry Mgr. Req include: Bachelor’s degree, You will be responsible for the fit process in soft dressing. Strong contacts with 2-4 yrs work exp in licensing or other re- through production. Must have previous major dept stores, chains & special Accessories Sales Executive Daily and Weekly Rentals lated field. Proficiency in Microsoft Word, experience, at least 5 years preferred. size experience required. Generous Well Connected to Mass and Mid Tier Excel & Powepoint. Ability to work in fast- The major portion of this position is pkg to right candidate. Email resume Management: Please Call: 267-671-2130 paced environment. Relevant licensing developing first fit patterns. to: [email protected] The Bryant Park Hotel exp req’d. [email protected] Email resume: [email protected] 40 West 40th Street Global Sourcing & Prod Man Ladies/Jrs/Kids Knit and Denim Spts Fashion, Del & Price,Price,Price,Price. 212-642-2166 Reply to: [email protected] or 917-572-2383

8th Ave #555 NYC SHOWROOMS FOR RENT Multi-talented acc dsgnr seeking 24/7 Attendant Lobby About 900 SQ FT on 37th st. & 7th ave. steady freelance/P/T 3 days/wk 511 - 3108 sqft. @ $26.95 per sqft. 1 big hall & 2 offices, very bright and Jrs/Girls Handbags, FA, graphics, Beautifully Renovated, light, high ceil- beautifully renovated. Freight & pas- lic char or generic. Illust/Pshop. ing. Frt & pass. elevator. Owner 212- senger elevator. (Including Utility $ 516-978-5782 or 695-0005 Or 718-387-0500 3,818.00/M) Call Owner 201-873-2629 or [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] intoStep the spotlight

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