EX-LIBRIS G. & N. INGLETON Island Reminiscences A graphic, detailed Romance of a Life spent in the South Sea Islands BY THOMAS TROOD British Vice-Consul at Apia, Samoa McCARRON, STEWART CO. Printers and Publishers, 22-24- 26 Goulburn St. 19)2. PREFACE. E number of books dealing with the various islands of the TI South Seas has notably increased during the past few years. Their authors have described with more or less detail their charm and romance from a tourist point of view, as well as their value from the commercial standpoint. So great, however, is the field which opens up before the imagination in dealing with these marvellous islands that it is quite certain much more remains to be written than has yet appeared. So far, the writings have with rare excep- tions come from the pens of those who have visited the islands especially for that purpose, either privately or as the specially commissioned representatives of public journals or scientific societies, the results being naturally superficial to a degree. The present volume conies under an entirely new category, inas- much as it deals in a most entertaining way with the reminiscences of one life has been the scenes first whose spent among depicted ; as trader, and later in an official position. The dramatic changes which have marked the administration of political affairs in Samoa during the last twenty years, for instance, has enabled the author to deal with the subject as only one on the spot could, other islands being similarly treated. The manners and customs of the natives of the various groups, about which many have dis- coiirsed with more or less accuracy, are here dealt with from the standpoint of personal experience. These reminiscences, moreover, enable one to penetrate into phases of native life and character of which the historian or visiting scribe are necessarily ignorant, and the conclusion is quickly reached that only an extended sojourn among these interesting peoples, during which their complete confidence is gained, can open the closely-barred and jealously- guarded doors leading to those revelations of the native character so essentially interesting to the psychologist. The personal touch which ever transforms the commonplace into a subject of absorbing interest is here in evidence, and the work will not only claim the " " interest of the general reader, but the numerous old-timers scattered all over the world in recognising as they read the graphi- cally-described places and persons, will live their early lives all over again with pleasure and zest, . Island Reminiscences . SAMOA. " Amidst green islands in glittering seas, Where fragrant forests perfume the breeze And strange bright birds, on their starry wings, Bear the rich hues of all glorious things." HEMANS, the capital of German Samoa (Navigators' Islands), is APIA,situated in 13 deg. 49 min. south latitude and 171 deg. 41 min. west longitude. Approached from the sea the is beautiful the if did not mind view very ; early voyagers, they the heat, have half believed that had stumbled acci may they by" dent on the long-lost Garden of Eden. Valley and. hill, with living verdure clad," in grand and lovely forms, crowned with cocoanut palms, which wave languidly aloft their graceful branches, stretch in panoramic view towards the clouds which rest on the distant mountains. The town itself, a long row of nonde- script buildings half native, half European, is built on the shores of the bay which forms the harbour, a semi-circle of two miles in length. The anchorage is bad and scant, but Saluafata Bay, eight miles to the eastward, is a well-sheltered harbour. The population of the group is about 40,000, of which 400 are whites. All the natives have embraced Christianity. Their spiritual wants are well attended to. The London Missionary Society has six English and one German missionary, and the Wesleyans three, both assisted by a large staff of native teachers. The Protestant churches are at present in the maiority. The London Mission commenced operations seventy-six years ago, then favourably received by the then head of the Malietoa family. Twenty-seven thousand natives attend its churches, of which 5,000 are church members. At its schools 9,000 children are educated. The Bible, translated by the same organisation, has been in the hands of the Samoans for many years, having gone through several editions. The Roman Catholic Mission has a staff of many priests, besides several nuns. The Mormons have also established themselves here during the last few years. On the whole the climate, although much too hot to be plea- sant, is salubrious, but elephantiasis, in all its forms, is far too common to make the islands a desirable residence ; at the same time this dread disease may be staved off to a great extent by a three months' trip to sea or the colonies once in every four years. The j'early average temperature is 78 deg. Fahrenheit. In January, the hottest month of the year, the mean height of the thermometer is Si deg. Fahrenheit. In August, the coolest month, 75 deg. Fahrenheit at Apia within doors, fifteen feet above the sea. The difference of temperature between noon and mid- night ranges always from 16 to 18 deg. Fahrenheit. The tem- perature is much lower on the mountains. There. 2,000 feet above the sea, the thermometer sometimes falls at night in the winter months as low as 54 deg. Fahrenheit. Five hundred feet above the sea, three miles from Apia, it is from four to five deg. the and than it is in and Fahr. lower, through day night, Apia ; on the south side of the island it is two deg. Fahr. lower than it is on the north side. More rain falls on the south side of the island than on the north side. For some years previous to 1885 the islands were governed by a King and a Vice-King, assisted by two councils, one composed of hereditary chiefs, the other of (native) councillors, the whole receiving the support of England, Germany, and America, through their Consuls. The Apia town and district were formed into a Municipality (nearly 24 square miles in extent) through the advice of Sir Arthur Gordon (Baron Stanmore) when he called here in 1879. The municipality, thus formed, worked very well. The expenses were met by a real property tax of i per cent, per annum, and by store, hotel and other license fees. It yielded a revenue of five thousand dollars gold per annum. The municipal board consisted of three Consuls and three members of the three nations with the the from each the latter whom King made convention one ; were nominated by their respective Consuls. Subsequently in accordance with the Berlin Treaty of the I4th June, 1889, the above was altered. " The Powers directed that a Municipal Council should be established consisting of six members and a of the Coun- " president who shall also have a vote the former "to be elected cil, ; by the taxpayers, and shall hold their appointments for a term of two years. In the absence of the president the council may elect a chairman pro iempore. Consular officers shall not be eligible as councillors, nor shall councillors exercise any consular functions during their term of office." 2 " All ordinances, c., passed by this council before becoming law shall be referred to the consular representatives of the three Treaty Powers sitting conjointly as a Consular Board who shall either approve and return such regulations or suggest such amend- ments as be deemed them." " may unanimously necessary by Should the Consular Board not be unanimous in approving the regulations referred to them, or should the amendments unani- mously suggested by the Consular Board not be accepted by a majority of the Municipal Council then the regulations in question shall be referred for modification and finaj approval to the Chief Justice of Samoa." " The Municipal Council shall appoint a Municipal Magistrate, &c., &c., and fix the magistrate's salary." '' " To obtain the necessary revenue duties on general mer- chandise of 2 per cent, ad valorem, and on a sliding scale on liquors, &c., were levied, together with capitation taxes, store, hotel, and other license fees, also an export duty of 2i, 2 and li per cent, on copra, coffee and cotton respectively. The Chief Justice, receiving a salary of $6,000 gold per an- num, was to be named by the three Signatory Powers in common accord, or failing their agreement to be named by the King of Sweden and Norway. The President of the Municipality and Council, receiving a salary of 85,000 gold per annum, was to be agreed upon by the three Powers, failing such agreement other provisions were pro- vided. The first Chief was C. Cedercrantz Clerk of the Justice ; Court, P. last L. of Hagberg. The was W. Chambers ; Clerk the Court, J. H. Denvers. The first President was Baron A. Senfft von Pilsach, succeeded by Messrs. E. Schmidt, Dr. Raffel, and Dr. W. H. Solf, now the Imperial German Governor. The first the last Municipal Magistrate was W. Cooper ; was R. L. Skeen. Copra (dried cocoanut) was, at that time, the only native product, of which from two to three thousand tons were made now thousand to nine thousand tons are yearly ; eight annually produced. Cacao and rubber were then unknown. The islands were discovered by Bougainville in 1768, and La Perouse in 1787, and called by the latter the Navigators' Is- lands on account of the large number of canoes seen moving along their shores.