A MONTHLY NEWSLETTER November 2017 Vol. 30, No. 10

dateline: EASTERN CANADA Maine and in the US generally, it occurred bass is the same fishery that migrates at to me that a lot of anglers might share my least as far north as Quebec’s Gaspé Pen- On-Site Report curiosity. Maybe, just maybe, there is a ro- insula and as far south as Prince Edward Excitement Is Growing bust fishery in waiting across a wide swath Island. Who knows, they may even range of eastern Canada, I reasoned. as far west as Cape Breton Island on the over New Striper Fishery At this writing, I have just returned northern end of Nova Scotia. Remember, these more northerly Gulf of St. Lawrence (Editor Note: That new striper fishery we fish are entirely separate from the Bay of have been telling you about in Eastern Fundy striped bass that ply Fundy waters Canada may be more widespread and ro- and range southward into Nova Scotia, bust than we thought. Correspondent Jerry Maine, and southern New Brunswick. It’s Gibbs filed the following report after an evident to me, after my trip, that there’s extensive on-site look.) an exciting late-spring/summer/fall striped ontinuing subscribers to The bass sport fishery in this area ready to be Angling Report will remember developed. If that happens, it is going to Cthe report in these pages last sum- attract a lot of traveling anglers and bring mer by Duncan Barnes about a striped big benefits to the folks in eastern Canada bass fishing trip to the lower Miramichi who live in the above-mentioned areas. River in New Brunswick. I was on that The key issue here is whether Cana- trip with Duncan. He and I caught a lot of from a 2,300-mile road trip that answered da’s Department of Fisheries and Oceans fish on the fly, and the experience left me some of the questions I had about this continues the management practices that wondering where these fish go after leav- fishery and, at the same time, raised some brought this fishery back from the brink. ing the Miramichi spawning grounds in new questions. Importantly, I came away Those practices include stringent closures June. With sea-going striper populations from this trip fairly convinced that the and low harvest quotas. Thus far, the way down in my home waters of southern Miramichi spawning population of striped Feds in Canada are going slow, doubtless aware that the fish have the potential to be SUPPORT OUR CORPORATE SPONSORS a major economic asset. The pressure on them to limit this population is growing, however, and Atlantic salmon anglers are not the only pressure group. I’ll have more to say about that in a moment. Meanwhile, sportfishing for stripers is moving forward in eastern Canada. Al- IN THIS ISSUE ready, some salmon lodges near the tip and the southern shores of Quebec’s Gaspé Special Note Mexico Peninsula are offering clients striped bass A Sort of Farewell This Xcalak Fishing Trip fishing. Typically, they are offering it as from Editor Don Causey Was Based In A B&B Page 3 Pages 7–8 a late-afternoon/evening add-on to their salmon programs. The most common News Analysis Costa Rica practice is to offer wading opportunities Hurricane Update: Jungle Tarpon Trip: Caribbean, Gulf, Florida Keys Rant and Rebuttal across areas of smooth sandy bottom near Pages 4–5 Pages 8–10 mouths of famous salmon rivers such as the Bonaventure and Malbaie. Fortuitous- Russia Bahamas ly, The Nature Conservancy has recently This Kamchatka Trip Reviewers Needed for Got a Big Thumbs-Up Three Great Fishing Books expanded protected areas of the coastal Pages 5–7 Page 9 Malbaie salt marsh, which provides excel- THE ANGLING REPORT lent summer striped bass habitat. Saumon fishing-dedicated kayak. His plan is to Gaspé (http://saumongaspe.com/?lang=en) explore areas with high eel grass (some of and Falls Gully Outfitter (fallsgully.com/ it is three to four feet in height!) growing en) are two operations offering striper on mud bottom, where you can’t wade fishing. The above rivers and other well- very well. Here, there are ice-scoured open known salmon waters flow into either the patches, he says, where it would make Gulf of St. Lawrence or Chaleur Bay (or sense for large stripers to lurk in grass to THE ANGLING REPORT Baie des Chaleurs), which in turn opens ambush prey. There are pristine lawn-like GROUP PUBLISHER into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. A young meadows of eel grass. “Scientists call it John D. Lunn guide in this area, Charles Binette, who one of the finest examples of eel grass ever 512-470-7447 alternately works independently and for seen.” he says. “Silversides seem to be a FOUNDING EDITOR various salmon lodges (facebook.com/lar- primary forage here.” It was my desire Don Causey elevesalmosalar) is on top of the region’s to see some of these flats that made me striper fishing and is worth contacting. decide to make my long road trip with my ASSOCIATE EDITOR An area that has me very intrigued wife and French Brittany Spaniel. Seth Fields is New Brunswick’s Acadian Peninsula, Martin lives in the town of Shippa- COPY EDITOR just south of the Gaspé Peninsula across gan, and some of the key striper areas he Gary J. Hamel Chaleur Bay. My interest dates back to a showed me are on Lamèque and Miscou CONTRIBUTING EDITOR conversation I had earlier this year with Islands, technically separate from the Jed Lyons Martin Mallet, who writes the Eating col- Acadian Peninsula, but still part of it. umn for Gray’s Sporting Journal. Aside In the short time I had to fish with him LAYOUT & PRODUCTION from being a stellar cook of all things fish in September, we focused on beaches, Ben F. Badger Jr. and game, Martin is an ardent angler and namely, Chiasson Beach on Lamèque; and ILLUSTRATIONS waterfowler and a scientist for his family’s the beach near the Miscou lighthouse at Gordon Allen extensive oyster farming operation. His that island’s very tip. For the beach fish- striper fishing begins in June after the fish ing, I wished I’d brought a two-handed ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER leave the Miramichi spawning grounds overhead (not Spey) casting fly rod, as we Michael Floyd 706-823-3739 / [email protected] and extends into mid- to late October. The needed to reach for a little extra distance post-spawn fish are quite hungry and the offshore because of the presence of float- Subscription Inquiries: fishing is off the charts for a month and ing weed and churning, off-colored surf. (Orders, address changes, problems) a half, he told me, with action slowing in Still, with heavier plastic swim baits and 800-283-9471 www.theanglingreport.com mid-August but building again in the fall, poppers we caught fish. There was one Email: [email protected] when the fish tend to be larger and are in memorable evening after supper when we A Publication of MCC Magazines, LLC a division of Morris Communications Company, great condition. “There’s even a cinder fished beneath a bridge, perched precari- LLC 735 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901 worm hatch in late to middle June,” he ously on boulders. The fish were smacking says. “I can tell from seeing them in my bait around the bridge supports nonstop. Donna Kessler, President oyster tanks.” Poppers on fly or spin gear were the ticket. Patty Tiberg, Vice President Martin says much of the fishing he One morning, while enjoying a tour of the Scott Ferguson, Director of Circulation does is in fairly shallow water, often to fascinating and extensive Mallet oyster Donald Horton, Director of Manufacturing visibly feeding fish. “It’s not subtle,” said culturing operation by boat, Martin lifted Kris Miller, Director of Production Martin. “Fishing is over sandy bottom in a float-supported containment basket to Morris Communications Company, LLC the tidal channels, near dunes and gullies. display a particularly successful crop. We William S. Morris III, Chairman Fish pass through on their way to and from had our rods in the boat and Martin casu- William S. Morris IV, President & CEO ©2017 by MCC Magazines, LLC. All rights reserved. The eel grass flats.” He regularly catches bass ally suggested casting down an “aisle” Angling Report (ISSN 01045-3539) is published monthly by MCC Magazines, LLC, 735 Broad Street, Augusta, GA 30901. measuring 30 inches or less, he says, and between rows of floating oyster baskets. I Subscriptions are $49 for one year, $87 for two years. Canada and Mexico add $20 per year (U.S. funds only). Outside North he’s begun to explore for larger fish in a thought it odd, but in short order I caught America add $40 per year (U.S. funds only). Periodicals post- age paid at Augusta, GA and additional mailing offices. POST- MASTER: Send address corrections to The Angling Report, Customer Support Procedures PO Box 433237, Palm Coast, FL 32143-9616. Contributions in the form of manuscripts or photographs will be gladly considered for publication. A self-addressed, stamped Want to inquire about your subscription or web access, change e-mail ad- envelope of the proper size must accompany each submission. Please write for editorial guidelines if submitting for the first dress, and more? https://tar.pcdfusion.com/pcd/Order?iKey=I**WEB time, and enclose a SASE; this is very important. We cannot guarantee against damage or loss of materials submitted, but we take great care in handling all submissions. Want to file a Trip Report? http://anglingreport.com/file-a-trip-report/ Address all correspondence to The Angling Report, P.O. Box 1207, Augusta, GA 30903-1207. For subscription inquiries or if you do not wish to have your name provided to qualified users of our mailing list, call 1-800-283-9471. The Angling Re- Want to reach Founding Editor Don Causey? [email protected] port may not be photocopied or otherwise reproduced without express written permission from the general manager.

November 2017 -2- Volume 30, Number 10 THE ANGLING REPORT a striper. Good reason. Detritus that falls ers have their own complaint: they believe conservation standpoint, he believes, plus from the oyster baskets attracts small stripers are feeding on the crustaceans. it would mean the quality of fish flesh forage fish, which in turn bring roaming While these interest groups continue to harvested would be superior to netted fish. striped bass. I vowed to keep that in mind push for reducing striped bass numbers, Martin believes strongly that allow- back home in Maine, though I’m not sure Martin wants to see their populations re- ing a recreational fishery to develop on the oyster farmers would approve of anglers main high, and he expresses that view re- peninsula will lead to more respect for the regularly fishing around their floats. bass. Currently, most striped bass anglers Legal striper fishing in New Bruns- on the Acadian Peninsula are locals who wick closes two hours after sunset and use bait or hardware, and they fish primar- begins two hours after sunrise, daily. This ily from shore. A few, however, use small area has long summer days, so evening boats. In that connection, there are quite a fishing can extend quite late. Unfortu- few boat launches/ramps on the peninsula, nately, some locals ignore regulations. mostly associated with commercial fish- With the high bass population, nighttime ing harbors, but which can be accessed by poaching is an unhappy fact. Unfortu- recreational anglers. Rules differ by wharf; nately, as in the Miramichi watershed, the most are free, though a few have small amazing number of these fish has caused launch fees. striped bass to become a convenient scape- The kicker to all this is that while the goat for marine woes of all kinds. Atlantic peninsula is rife with good lodging, from salmon decline is just one among many. peatedly to Fisheries and Oceans officials. campgrounds to simple motels to lovely Commercial eel and gaspereau (alewives) One way he would do that, if commercial B&Bs and inns, there is no recreational fishermen are pretty upset at stripers. striped bass fishing is ever expanded out- sportfishing infrastructure in place at this When hauling their nets and tending their side the Miramichi spawning grounds, is point: no guides, no outfitters, no fishing- traps, they regularly find captured stripers to allow it as a hook-and-line fishery only. dedicated lodges. There is a local fly- and nets damaged by the fish. Lobster fish- That would make sense from a balanced tying/fly fishing angler group that Martin

A Farewell—Sort Of by Don Causey, Founding Editor „„ One of the great drawbacks of ers of The Angling Report, I plan to leave on what is happening in the world of spending your work life fishing and writ- time in my schedule to write a report fishing. For sure, I am going to be active ing about fishing is the prospect of retir- now and then, as well as keep an eye on in expanding the scope and size of our ing some day. What in the world do you the flow of copy into the newsletter, vet- FREE Fishing Program. I plan to play a do at that point? Go to work? ting it for exaggeration and hyperbole, role in deciding who goes on those trips, I have a better idea. I’m going to and generally keeping the letter loyal too. go fishing, only more often and longer. to your needs and wishes, not to those The person I will be passing materi- And in some very novel ways. One who are trying to sell you angling travel als on to is Seth Fields. He is a bright, thing I want to do is tow my flats boat services and products. That’s not to say up-and-coming fishing editor with all all the way from Miami to Great Slave the latter aren’t nice guys. They are the the right instincts and worlds of experi- Lake and figure out how to catch those most honest and caring professionals ence with the internet and how to take huge lake trout on my own. Then I want any community could wish for. The only advantage of it in the publication of a to explore those mud lumps off the people I am going to miss more than the newsletter such as this one. You’ll be see- eastern mouth of the Mississippi River subscribers to this publication are the ing some of his ideas emerge soon. Seth where huge, manatee-size redfish cruise many agents, outfitters, and equipment has also vowed to fix The Angling Report the shallows in water so clear you can makers I’ve had the privilege of meeting website as soon as possible and restore see them roll their eyes. It would also over the years. the custom search capability many of be fun, I think, to ride a motor scooter I am going to maintain a masthead you value very highly. clear across Patagonia with a travel rod affiliation with The Angling Report Here are the address details you strapped to the back. (Founding Editor) and an Angling Report need to note. Seth’s e-mail address is: I could go on, but you get the pic- e-mail address, and I welcome hearing [email protected]. My continuing ture. I’m going to keep on doing what from any of you who have the urge to e-mail address is: doncausey@anglin- I have been doing for the last 30 years. drop me a line. During a transitional greport.com. Keep me in the loop, guys. By mutual agreement with the folks at period, you can even send me your trip I like looking at fish pictures! –Don Morris Communications, the new own- reports if you want and your inside tips Causey.

November 2017 -3- Volume 30, Number 10 THE ANGLING REPORT Mallet is involved with. Perhaps reaching visiting anglers, in the meantime, can’t ress in the picturesque village of George- out to a member or two would kindle a find some really good fishing on their own. town on PEI’s eastern-central coast. While relationship and garner some focused area Enjoy!—Jerry Gibbs. I was feasting on steamed clams in the information. Martin says he would be glad Postscript: Near press time, Gibbs sent waterside restaurant where she works, she to plug interested anglers into the group. us this additional material on Prince Ed- said her husband, a commercial fisherman He says he would also welcome direct in- ward Island that he gathered on his trip and shellfish harvester, regularly and unin- quiries from individual anglers or angling to eastern Canada: “My recent road trip tentionally nets large striped bass. She mo- professionals who share his interest in see- took me entirely around the shoreline of tioned to the water just outside the window ing a sport fishery develop on the peninsu- Prince Edward Island. I did not send you where I was dining. She said that her hus- la. His e-mail address is: martin.a.mallet@ anything on that part of my trip because band’s home waters include the tidal con- gmail.com. I did not fish there. I did dig up some fluences of the Montague and Brudenell Clearly, there is plenty of potential fishing contacts, however, that may be Rivers that flow into Georgetown Harbor for a new striped bass fishery in eastern of value. The first is Carmen Boshuis of and Cardigan Bay. She was under the Canada, outside the Miramichi spawning Going Fishing tackle shop in Charlotte- impression that even non-targeted, recre- grounds that are already becoming well town, PEI (goingfishing.ca). He had some ational catch/release fishing was still pro- known as a place to go striper fishing. I’m striped bass recommendations. He likes hibited on the island. Surprised, I checked betting local anglers are going to be able to the big Hillsborough River that runs past with Steve Hachey, Communications Ad- develop some productive guiding services Charlottetown emptying into Hillsborough visor for the Department of Fisheries and once they really understand the vagaries Bay. He also suggests the Pisquid River, a Oceans. Hachey confirmed that, indeed, and season-long locational variances of tributary of the Hillsborough further inland striped bass fishing is open in the tidal and their fisheries—and, of course, the desires to the northeast. inland waters of PEI, with slight variance of visiting anglers. That’s not to say that “The second contact is a young wait- in the seasons for those two areas.”

Briefly Noted Things to Do . . . Places to Go . . . New Developments „„ Those terrible storms that raced March. Elsewhere, Avalon’s Fil Invernizzi to run day trips from Provo sooner, as our across the Caribbean in September, one (http://cubanfishingcenters.com) said all boats are fine.” And here is what William of them (Harvey) slamming into Houston was fine. There are essentially no inter- Valley ([email protected]) had to after crossing the Gulf of Mexico, prob- ruptions at all at their other destinations, say about things in Providenciales: “We ably left some subscribers convinced the he says. As for Turks and Caicos, we got had a lot of damage, but most resorts will fisheries and fishing infrastructure in that this feedback from Bibo Jayne of Beyond open up around the end of October. Our entire part of the world are toast. Actually, the Blue Charters on South Caicos: “All boats are in one piece. As far as fishery with some temporary exceptions, nothing is concerned, the bonefish population has could be farther from the truth. Those ex- not changed despite the fact that a lot of ceptions include the north coast of Cuba, sand was moved around. What’s new and Puerto Rico, Turks and Caicos, and the good is a lot of big snook and baby tarpon Florida Keys. The big story is what hap- got blown in throughout the fishery, giv- pened to the latter. I’ll have more to say ing it a new face. Past hurricanes have about the Keys in a moment. done this. Typically, the snook and tarpon The main reason there is so little take up residency for a year or two before damage to fishing destinations this time moving on to less salty environments.” around is simple good luck. Harvey As for Puerto Rico and its baby was little more than a weepy infant as it tarpon fisheries and a few other things, crossed the Yucatan, and Hurricanes Irma it feels unseemly at press time to make and Maria both missed the Bahamas and inquiries about sportfishing when vast most of the other important Caribbean good here! Town was basically flattened numbers of people are still trying to sur- fishing destinations. Even those destina- by Irma. Maria was just an annoyance vive. We will provide an update when the tions that were hit (Cuba and Turks and for South Caicos. Had a first look at humanitarian crisis there has receded. Caicos) are rebounding as this is written nearby flats today and everything seems Turning to the Florida Keys, the in late September. Avalon, for example, to be in place. The resorts and our facility mess, at this writing, in some areas, is was already promoting a specially priced sustained significant water/wind damage unbelievable. The big problem is the num- trip to Cayo Coco/Cayo Cruz in Cuba, so we won’t be providing lodging until ber of mobile and manufactured homes one of the hardest-hit areas, this coming about the first of the year. We will be able that have been allowed to be set up there.

November 2017 -4- Volume 30, Number 10 THE ANGLING REPORT Many of them, especially in the lower this point, too. namely, the greater New Orleans area, Keys, were just obliterated, while adjacent “The really important thing Angling famous for its redfish. That hurricane, of elevated, up-to-code, reinforced concrete Report subscribers need to know is that course was Hurricane Nate. The storm structures were ready for immediate habi- electricity, water, gas, and cell phone had just moved through the area as this tation. The contrast was stunning, and sad, service have been almost totally restored, was written, but it was clear the im- too, because it clearly revealed the widen- and I am writing this in late September. pact was minimal on Biloxi Marsh and ing gap between the haves and have-nots In the upper Keys, from Key Largo to probably not major on the Venice area. in the Florida Keys. As South Florida Islamorada, most restaurants, hotels, and The expected damage on the latter area guide Alex Zapata of Silver King Charters marinas are opening and offering their was mostly to inland ponds that were (http://silverkingcharters.com/) notes in services to visitors. US 1, which takes expected to have received an influx of a report he sent us on the Keys and other travelers from Homestead all the way salt water, which damages or kills fresh- nearby areas, current building codes are down to Key West, is completely clear water grasses. That usually causes the going to make it hard (or impossible) for and open for residents and visitors. The redfish to move to other waters. many residents to replace their mobile Keys Board of Tourism was poised, as homes and older homes, forcing them to this was written, to officially open the „„ Thomas J. McGraw is very pleased move elsewhere. That is sure to have an door to visitors October 1. Equally im- with his trip to the Ozernaya River on impact on guides. Zapata, who fishes the portant, Irma does not seem to have had the Kamchatka Peninsula of Russia, entire Keys, as well as Florida Bay, goes any negative impact on the fishing. In fact, and he does such a good job describing on to say this about hurricane Irma: some of the effects from the storm have it we think it deserves to be fully aired. “The epicenter of destruction caused been rather positive. It has, for example, His trip was conducted for himself and by Hurricane Irma was the lower keys cleaned some backcountry areas from ac- seven other anglers by Will Blair’s Best between Marathon and Key West. Spe- of Kamchatka fishing company. Their cifically, Cudjoe Key, Summerland Key, contact for the trip was Mike Schultz of Sugarloaf, Big Pine Key, and Marathon Schultz Outfitters in Michigan (http:// sustained most of the damage from strong schultzoutfitters.com), who turned to Fly winds and storm surge that smashed trees, Water Travel (www.flywatertravel.com) trailers, roofs, fences, boats, docks, and in Ashland, Oregon, for some help with houses, leaving many residents’ personal the logistics of the trip. The end result was belongings strewn like trash across streets a trip that exceeded McGraw’s very high and empty lots. That is not to say there expectations. He goes on to write: was no damage elsewhere. Parts of the Our group of eight had a great trip to upper Keys were hurt, as were Choko- the Ozernaya River in Kamchatka, Rus- loskee and Everglades City on the west sia, August 14–21, 2017. We arrived in coast. The city of Miami, where negligent Anchorage, Alaska, on Saturday, prior to tree-pruning policies have been allowed our Monday departure, and stayed at the to prevail, suffered widespread tree dam- cumulated dead grass and algae that had Lakefront Millennium Hotel. Our rooms, age and power outages. Many streets, as been hurting the fishing in what used to the restaurant, the bar, and the lakefront this is written, weeks after the storm, are be great areas. Offshore, captains are tell- patio all proved to be fantastic. Highlights still lined with dead vegetation and even ing me they are finding lots of dolphins of our stopover were dinner at Simon whole downed trees. under all the debris that floated offshore & Seafort’s downtown and a flight over “Irma caused a lot of problems for from the storm surge. On a more general the glaciers around Anchorage provided the sportfishing community in particular, level, hurricanes seem to have a stimulat- by Rust’s Flying Service (www.flyrusts. not just in the Keys, but more so there ing effect on ocean fisheries. For some com). than anywhere. Many marinas sustained time afterward, the fishing tends to be Our driver picked us up at 5:15 AM major damage that will take months to way better than usual. I expect that to hap- Monday for our 7:30 flight from Anchor- repair. Fishing professionals, some of pen in South Florida. age to Petropavlovsk. The only line at the whom I know, or are friends, saw their “The sportfishing industry in South airport was for our flight. The four-hour properties and vessels suffer damage or Florida needs help and support. Fishing flight aboard Yakutia Airlines’ Boeing be completely destroyed. The worst part guides in particular need work in order to 737 was uneventful, except for the mind- for all of us guides is the lack of opportu- overcome this terrible natural catastrophe. blowing views of Kamchatka. nity to start working and making money Great guides have openings galore right Petro greeted us with rain, but this right away. Understandably, clients have now. Come on down!” was the last rain we would see before canceled hundreds of trips. The flow of Postscript: Since the above was writ- returning to Anchorage. The customs casual tourists who book spur-of-the- ten still another hurricane has crashed line was about one and a half hours long, moment trips has dried up completely at through an important fishing area— largely due to one passenger who thought

November 2017 -5- Volume 30, Number 10 THE ANGLING REPORT he could bring a handgun into Russia handy, but they were not needed on this out. Their longtime friend and fellow without any preapproval or paperwork. trip. Laika, Chuk, died in a battle with a bear Otherwise, we had no problems and were There are two “outhouses” just out- last year. Chuk was a 15-year veteran and soon on our tour bus—where they had side the cabins—with flush toilets! Next legend on the Oz. But Kamchatka bears beer, water, and hors d’oeuvres waiting to the bathrooms is a shower house that are not used to people, and they will not for us! Along the way, we hit a local mar- holds two separate hot-water showers, be hanging out near you. They will run, ket (WAMCA) that had a great selection each with its own sitting room. They are hopefully. But if not, a couple shots in the of US liquor and beer at a fraction of US ready to go after each day of fishing. air do the trick. prices after the exchange rate. We were greeted by The Best of Did I mention that there is fishing? Victor (Russian owner) and Svetlana Kamchatka owner Will Blair, upon arriv- They have six wide, 16-foot sturdy alumi- (21-year manager/chef) met us at the air- al. Will guided with us all week. We truly num boats. Each has a great forward plat- port. They handled the luggage and any enjoyed his company, his knowledge, and form and large rear bench seat providing issues at customs and accompanied us on his enthusiasm and genuine excitement. plenty of space for casting. All the boats the bus and chopper all the way to camp. He was positively jumping for joy at the have brand-new 40 hp jet motors. It’s not often that the lodge owner is your giant rainbows, which he must have seen The river is broken into five different baggage assistant and escort! a thousand times. He was genuinely ex- beats, each five to 10 miles long. Each The bus ride from Petro to the chop- cited for us to experience this fishery for guide specializes in a particular beat, and per in the town of Milkovo is about three the first time. you will get a chance with each guide on and a half hours. The bus is comfortable, The food Svetlana prepared might each section. They do not fish the same and the route is now over 50 percent have been the biggest surprise. We had portion of a beat on consecutive days. paved. They were paving the remainder chicken, moose stew, coho, Dolly Varden They will also take trips outside of their of the road while we were there. When normal beats. We fished small forks in the finished, it will probably be a three-hour far upper river that have never seen fish- trip or less. ermen. We fished far downriver as well, The Russian MI-8 chopper is big where the river was wide, reminding me and sturdy. You fly over landscape that is of the Missouri in Craig, Montana. Each incredibly lush, full of rivers, 100 ft trees, section was a totally different experience. waterfalls, lakes, hundreds of creeks and What wasn’t different was the sun and 75 rivers, mountains, volcanoes, and wildlife. degrees every day. On the Oz, sun seems At this point, it’s no longer just logging to enhance the streamer bite. miles. The views from the chopper and Day one on the water we were with the bus make it part of the experience. Svetlana’s son Yegor. Yegor is a seasoned Don’t forget earplugs or noise-cancelling 29-year-old guide who knows the river headphones for the chopper ride. and fish behavior very well. We went 20 The pictures cannot do the camp trout, spaghetti with handmade meatballs, minutes downriver to his beat. My second justice. Four two-person A-frame cab- soups, salads, and fresh vegetables. For cast of the trip with a pure flash streamer ins up top, a large dining cabin/kitchen breakfast, it was egg scrambles, French landed a native Kamchatka rainbow, 24 down the stairs, and the guides’ cabin and toast, crepes, fruit, fresh cowberry jam, x 14½ inches. Sam, fishing black, landed another two-person cabin down by the OJ, hash browns, sausage, fresh cof- a huge rainbow a minute later. We had a river. All of the cabins have electricity, fee and more. We all were amazed by day full of rainbow trout, Dolly Varden, a small wood-burning stoves, wooden bed the food. But one tip: Bring one or two few grayling, and a silver. The rainbows frames, and a five-inch mattress. It’s not pounds of ground coffee, or you might get average a fat 20+ inches. The grayling the Westin heavenly bed, but no need for instant. also average 20 inches. We had a fish ev- my Thermarest. And as it turned out, also Another tip: This is bear country. ery five minutes on a streamer or every 10 no need for that stop at the liquor market: Wow, are there giant brown bears! Every minutes on a mouse. the camp was already fully stocked with inch of the grassy riverbank has been Day two we went farther downriver stream-chilled Kamchatka beer and vod- worn down by them. But you can rest with Will Blair. Constant sea eagle sight- ka! Still, with the help of the guides, we easy at night, knowing that you have the ings. The king, chum, and pink salmon managed to dedicate a night to consuming best guards available. Three bear dogs runs were just ending, and the silver run our purchase. protect the camp. They are the Kam- was just beginning. The bottom of the I had worried about mosquitoes, but chatka Laika breed, which is specific to river was literally a carpet of dead king they also were a nonissue. It is worse in the region. Smart and fast, they resemble salmon, many of them 70-80 pounds. We early July, they told us, but all the cabins Australian Shepherds. Three or four times couldn’t keep the silvers off the hook, have a net inside the door, and each bed a night you may hear them barking, work- and the rainbows got heavy wherever the has a mosquito net. I’m sure they come in ing a bear, usually a few hundred yards salmon were lighter. We each boated over

November 2017 -6- Volume 30, Number 10 THE ANGLING REPORT 25 rainbows and 25 silvers, not to mention bonus of the trip was my last cast, which I had been thinking about this trip countless Dollies and a few grayling. We landed a Kundzha. On Sam’s last cast, he for years, envisioning constant fish in the had a couple hours in a shallow, glassy landed a larger Kundzha. It’s hard to be- most beautiful remote wilderness I could creek where silvers and rainbows con- lieve that a river can hold these numbers. imagine. That’s exactly what I got. What tinually crushed the mouse in two feet of Day six was departure day. The I didn’t expect was the beautiful camp, in- water. guides will take you out early for a few credible food, and the amiable camp staff Day three we were on the beat right hours if you wish, but I chose to relax and and guides enjoying the food, fire, and near camp with the newest and young- pack. To be honest, I just couldn’t imagine drinks with us. That took an already next est guide, Henry from Montana. What a catching any more fish. A couple groups level trip to, well, the next level. great guy and guide. This day we actu- Like everyone, I weighed cost, time, ally counted and had 23 rainbows over 20 remoteness, potential for great fishing, inches! Sam boated a 26 x 16½ specimen. food, rustic lodging, and so on. I now look And there were countless Dollies, gray- at it as an easy call. The cost was $8,195, ling, and silvers. plus the $700 flight to Anchorage, the Day four we were with Denise (Den- $2,200 flight to Petropavlovsk, and An- nis), a seasoned Russian guide. We went chorage lodging and guide tips. I would more than one and a half hours upriver, peg the total cost at around $12,500. and then hiked further upriver to an area Miscellaneous tips: Keep it simple— that had never seen a fly fisherman. You a couple 9’ 6 wt. and a couple 9’ 7 wt. could tell. The rainbow just slammed the Bring only the mouse patterns they al- fly when it hit the water. I took a 22 and low. Bring any streamer you want. It will a 24 off the same rock at the bank. At work. I only lost one while there. You one point, I landed five rainbows over 20 could get by on 10 streamers and 10 mice. inches on five consecutive casts. This is went out and did great. Use 15 lb maxima, or the best flouro you the stuff dreams are made of. We encoun- Around lunch, Will helped us on the can buy, or twine. Bring an intermediate tered one bear on foot that day, but saw 19 100-yard walk to the chopper. Victor and line and a floating line with a decent head. from the boat. Yet another day I will never Svetlana accompanied us on the chopper If it can chuck a large salmon fly pattern forget. We also each landed over 20 gray- and then the bus back to the airport. The 60–70 feet, it will probably work. Get trip ling and 20 Dolly Varden. chopper stops to refuel half way through insurance in case you have to cancel last Day five was a repeat of day two the trip, where you may or may not drop minute like my brother! You don’t need a downriver. We were with Yegor and met off or pick others up from the Two Yurt or coffee maker, water boiler, water purifier, up with Will and his group. More silvers Rainbows from Above camps. We picked Thermarest, travel pillow, or fishing net. and rainbows than one deserves. Never up the Two Yurt group, who had a simi- As perfectly rustic as it is, it’s not a camp- more than a few casts without a fish. The larly great trip filled with plenty of fish. ing trip. Enjoy!

OUTFITTER CRITIQUES The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

This section of The Angling Report is based entirely on subscriber-written Fishing Trip Report Forms. Our policy on these forms is to publish excerpts in the newslet- ter of Angler Network Forms as received without censorship. Agents, guides, lodge operators, and/or outfitters who disagree with anything said about them in this section are free to submit a rebuttal. As a subscriber, you can help extend the reach of this program by filing a Fishing Trip Report Form yourself. You should find one inside this issue of your newsletter. Alternately, you can file a report online by going to our website, www.anglingreport.com, and clicking on “File a Report.”

„„ Subscriber Doug Windsor has tional lodge model as the only workable to families with small kids. Our clientele weighed in with a report on a trip to way to go fishing away from home is be- is 1/3 divers, 1/3 fly fishermen, and 1/3 Xcalak, Mexico, with an outfit that is ing pressured from all sides, not just by people who want to get away from Can- completely new to us, namely, Casa the proliferation of vacation rental prop- cun and Playa del Carmen. My son has a Paraiso. We could not find a workable erties. We’ll pass along Windsor’s com- fishing guide service, and his website ad- web address for the place, and it was ments in a moment. First, here is what dress is www.xcalakflyfishingtours.com. not clear in Windsor’s report what kind Sutton had to say about his operation: It is currently being updated, and should of operation this is, so we contacted the “We are a B&B that caters mostly to be fully functional by the time your sub- owner, Benjamin Sutton. What he had adults and kids over six years of age. We scribers read this note. If you have any to say bolsters our notion that the tradi- also have a house next door that caters additional questions, please ask.”

November 2017 -7- Volume 30, Number 10 THE ANGLING REPORT As for Windsor’s report, he says he Pig Island, and dancing at night.” rive in San Jose, Costa Rica; overnight fished Chetumal Bay and waters around Windsor says he booked this trip there; and meet up with a transport ser- the Village of Xcalak this past May by himself and found that the journey (a vice operator in the morning who would flying into Cancun and renting a car. direct American Airlines flight to Exuma take me to the lodge in a van. The four- He has this to say about the overall ex- from Miami) was very easy and safe. He to five-hour van ride through the jungle perience: “This was my second trip to says he recommends the experience to amounted to a beautiful tour of parts of Chetumal Bay. On my first trip some fellow subscribers. He gives the cost of Costa Rica. 15 years ago, I did not see another boat his five-day stay, which included four The lodge is a rural hotel of sorts, on Chetumal Bay. Today, there is much days of fishing, as $1,500. cabins that are situated on a lagoon that more pressure. There are bonefish still Postscript: We reached out to Peace and connects to a jungle river. The operator, available in the bay, but to locate big, Plenty at press time, by the way, to see Tom Enderlin, started this operation four unpressured fish you have to hike into if their facilities and the local fishery or five years ago. For food service, he back lagoons. The effort is well worth were impacted by the recent hurricanes. has arranged for several local restaurants it, but you need to be able to walk three “Everything is fine!” they told us. “The and families to provide lunch and dinner to seven miles through brush and water hurricanes didn’t really affect us and ev- to his clients. The food was pretty much to get into the best fishing areas. Felipe erything is already back to normal.” You the same every day. I don’t eat breakfast, was an excellent guide. As for the lodge, can contact Peace and Plenty directly by myself, but I noticed that others had their it was outstanding, with excellent rooms. phone at 1-800-525-2210; or you can e- breakfast on the boat as we left for fish- Owners Ben and Esther are fantastic. mail them at [email protected]. ing. Lunch and dinner were decent but I made all my arrangements directly You can also get more information via always the same: rice, beans, and some through Casa Paraiso, which kept prices their website at http://www.peaceand- type of meat. It was good food, but it was significantly below those charged by oth- plenty.com/index.html. also very monotonous. er hotels and lodges in the area. I should Trip Details note that I saw a lot of large permit and Controversy I arrived in San Jose on a Saturday hooked one, along with some smaller „„ Subscriber Don Armstrong is not night, drove to the lodge on Sunday 12-pounders. Xcalak is a beautiful spot. happy with a two-week tarpon trip morning, and started fishing that same This trip was an excellent value. The handled for him in Costa Rica this past afternoon. The fishing was partially in only complaint I can think of is the long the river and partially in lagoons off the five-hour drive from Cancun.” river. We fished in a large 25-foot panga Postscript: Mills gives the cost of his with a local captain and Tom as the fish- stay in Xcalak as only $1,650 for seven ing guide. All the local people spoke nights lodging and five days of fishing. Spanish. I speak some Spanish and was He recommends the experience to fellow thus able to communicate sufficiently subscribers. As for reaching the lodge, with the locals. Other guests did not we were able to do so via e-mail at: casa- have that ability and communication was [email protected]. somewhat of an issue. I had been expect- ing to have plenty of action on large tar- „„ Subscriber Doug Windsor also has pon in the jungle river. However, in two good things to say about a recent trip weeks, I neither caught nor released any to Peace and Plenty lodge on the island August by Jungle Tarpon Lodge (http:// tarpon. I did jump four tarpon, two of of Great Exuma in the Bahamas. He solidadventures.com/jungle-tarpon-cos- which were about five pounds each. One calls his trip there a complete success, ta-rica/). He gives the following report: weighed between 40 and 50 pounds, and especially when paired with some of the I learned of the Jungle Tarpon Fish- one weighed more than 100 pounds. I local attractions and Bahamian night- ing in Costa Rica and was excited to had one other “eat” from a small tarpon. life. He says the fishing knowledge of try it. Some research produced excit- I fished 14 days in morning and after- the guides he used was excellent. They ing stories of breaking 12-weight rods noon sessions with no success. Naturally, helped him land upwards of eight to 12 and exciting fishing for tarpon of 100 to I was very disappointed. bonefish per day, including some very 200 pounds in a jungle river far inland We would generally start fishing large nine-pounders, while wading and in Costa Rica. I scheduled two weeks about 5:30 AM and take a break at 11:30 fishing from a skiff. He was particularly in August of 2017. I had never been to for lunch and a siesta. About 2:30 or 3:00 impressed with the extracurricular ac- Costa Rica before but had always wanted we would depart again for an afternoon tivities available to non-fishing partners to go. The lodges on the Caribbean side session. The weather was not as hot as here, describing them as “a whole island didn’t interest me, because I didn’t want I had expected, with quite a bit of rain. to explore, shopping, a relaxing pool, to just do blind casting in muddy water. Only a couple times was the rain so hard sailing opportunities, swimming around The arrangements were that I would ar- we had to stop fishing. The guides gave

November 2017 -8- Volume 30, Number 10 THE ANGLING REPORT lots of reasons/excuses for the poor fish- fished in the river and the lagoons. Then, On the positive side, the location of ing. Generally, it seemed the river was on the second Sunday, two new guests the lodge and the river and the lagoons too dirty. That is what made the fishing arrived. At that point Tom switched his where we fished were beautiful. The difficult, they said. In the lagoons, the program and fished the next week with jungle area is a bird sanctuary, and it fishing approach was to look for rising one of the new guests, leaving me and provided many great photo opportuni- tarpon and cast to them. I have fished the other guest to fish with a local guide. ties. I am not a good photographer and for baby tarpon quite a bit and I am very The local guide turned out to be very I have only a decent camera, not a great familiar with this strategy. I jumped three good, so that was not an issue. However, one. Tom’s wife is a professional photog- fish this way in the lagoons and had one the first Sunday those new guests arrived, rapher, however, and Tom is also a very eat. We spent most of our time chasing Tom took one of them to parts of the riv- good one. He has a great camera with a moving tarpon around the lagoons. At er that he never took me to. On Monday telephoto lens. Whenever a great picture times, there were periods of beautiful alone, that other guest had four eats and opportunity came along, I chose to let glassy water that made it easy to see the caught two large tarpon. For whatever Tom take the pictures. He promised to rolling and breaking tarpon. Those times reason, it appears to me that Tom chose provide copies of the photos to me. As were simply fantastic. The problem was not to have me fish those waters that pro- of this writing, Tom has not provided me that the tarpon always stayed more than a vided the best fishing. He actually took those pictures. I specifically asked Tom cast away from the boat. I have seen that the other guest there four times before on the last day if he would provide the happen in other situations. he took the second guest and me there photographs to me and he assured me I had another major issue with Tom. twice. By that time, Tom and the first he would. The bottom line is, after two I was the only guest the first week. We guest had already fished those areas hard. weeks of fishing, I caught zero tarpon. I

FREE Fishing Books: A Review Opportunity „„ It isn’t often that three major books full, loving review by someone who is books listed above, drop me a note de- of interest to anglers who travel emerge genuinely interested in them and quali- scribing the experience and knowledge at roughly the same time, but that is fied by experience and knowledge to you have that uniquely qualifies you what has just happened. The three books comment on them. Importantly, we also to do so. If you have written for the are: think you, the consumer, deserve an newsletter before, please indicate that. If Double Delphi: The Rise and Fall honest review by someone other than a you haven’t, describe work or personal of a Fisherman’s Fantasy by Peter professional outdoor writer who prob- writing you have done that will assure Mantle, current proprietor/manager of ably knows the author and feels under me you can put your thoughts and im- the Delphi Club on Abaco Island, which pressure to say only nice things. The pressions of these books down on paper. provides an unusually pleasant and ur- promotional, often vapid, tone of most Your reward will be the copy of the bane bonefishing experience in the Ba- outdoor book reviews is not unlike that book(s) I send you. Make no mistake: hamas. The largely biographical book of most trip reports filed by outdoor these are high-ticket volumes you will traces Peter’s development of the Delphi writers who got a free trip and feel un- want to make part of your library. Lodge in Ireland, as well as the Delphi der pressure to promote it as a favor to If you are selected to review one of Club in the Bahamas. the outfitter. these books, an excerpt of your review GT: A Fly Fisher’s Guide to Giant Continuing subscribers know we will appear in an upcoming issue of The Trevally by Peter Mcleod, founder of broke open the in-house quality of trip Angling Report, with the full text pub- the Aardvark McLeod fishing agency in reporting by encouraging subscribers lished on our website. Readers will be England. He’s fished for GTs just about to file reports on trips they paid for. able to find the full text by clicking on a everywhere they occur and knows what A full 90 percent of what we publish link available to all subscribers. You will he is talking about, which is a rarity, each month is provided by subscribers. be recognized as author of the review given the recent emergence of this great Some of this content consists of FREE with a byline and a short biographical fish on the international travel scene. Trip Reports provided by outfitters to note. A Passion for Permit by Jonathan Angling Report subscribers we carefully You can describe your credentials Olch, a two-volume masterpiece that select based on their background and for reviewing any one of these books weighs 10 pounds (yes, we weighed it!) experience. It is this free fishing formula by dropping me a note at: doncausey@ and numbers more than 1,500 pages. we now want to apply to reviewing par- anglingreport.com This is THE book if you are captivated ticularly important books on fishing like Postscript: Book publishers who would by the most complicated, frustrating those listed above. like to have books reviewed in our flats fish of all. Here is the deal. If you would like pages can reach us at the address given All three of these books deserve a to read and review any one of the three above.

November 2017 -9- Volume 30, Number 10 THE ANGLING REPORT would not return to Jungle Tarpon Lodge even harder. Such was unfortunately the we asked him to understand that time on in Costa Rica case when Mr. Armstrong visited the the water with clients sometimes makes Rebuttal Comment Jungle Tarpon Reserve, evidenced by editing photos difficult. He will receive Near press time, we sent Don Arm- what he references as caught fish when a the photos to have memories of his trip strong’s report to Tom Enderlin of Jungle new party arrived—some of which were at some point during the season as prom- Tarpon Lodge for comment. Importantly, on the same boat as Mr. Armstrong. Our ised. We are always sorry when clients Enderlin denies that he showed any fa- staff tried everything and could not help have difficult weeks due to unfortunate voritism toward other clients by taking this individual achieve his hopes to land conditions or unrealistic expectations, them to areas Armstrong had not been al- a large tarpon, but there were many op- but we always try our very best to make lowed to fish. It is impossible, of course, portunities. Regarding the claims that sure everybody is treated fairly and fa- to determine who is right in a matter like our location manager and/or our guides vorably. The rest is in the hands of the this, so we will leave it to subscribers would have prioritized and even favored tarpon.” to decide. Here is the rest of Enderlin’s other clients, we wholeheartedly disagree Don Causey Note: Has anyone else comment: “Anyone who has fished tar- and feel really sorry that Mr. Armstrong fished Jungle Tarpon Lodge? This desti- pon around the world knows that it can may have perceived the situation like nation has been creating some buzz, and be very hard. There are times that the that. Nobody would ever play favorites, it deserves another review, especially in tarpon gods smile more favorably on and the fact that Mr. Armstrong had the light of the fact that tarpon elsewhere— fishermen and times when the world just entire system to himself for a week gave everywhere, for that matter—are known seems against us. When such difficult him ample first shots at every location. to simply shut down for days on end. times occur, frustration can creep upon Tarpon move around a lot and sometimes Send your review to: doncausey@ even the most experienced and able an- they are in one place and sometimes in anglingreport.com. Our thanks to Don glers. In such occurrences limited casting another. Regarding photos, Mr. Arm- Armstrong for this review and to Tom skills or physical inability to convert eats strong was told by our location manager Enderlin for helping us provide both to landed fish makes an overall effort that they would be sent in due time, but sides of this issue.

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November 2017 -11- Volume 30, Number 10 THE ANGLING REPORT

November 2017 -12- Volume 30, Number 10