03 524364 Ch01.qxd 3/31/03 8:54 AM Page 3

1 The Best of

City of music, cafes, waltzes, parks, , and wine—that’s Vienna. Vienna is a true cosmopolitan center, where different tribes and nationalities have for centuries fused their cultural identities to produce the intriguing and often cyn- ical Viennese. From the time the Romans selected a Celtic settlement on the Danube River as one of their most important central European forts, “Vindobona,” the city we now know as Vienna, has played a vital role in European history. grew up around the city and developed into a mighty empire. The capital became a showplace during the tumultuous reign of the Habsburg dynasty, whose court was a dazzling spectacle. The face of the city has changed time and again because of war, siege, victory, defeat, the death of an empire, the birth of a republic, foreign occupation, and the passage of time. Fortunately, the Viennese character—a strict devotion to the good life—has remained solid. Music, art, literature, theater, architecture, education, food, and drink are all part of Vienna’s allure. In the pages that follow, we’ll show you the brilliance this city has to offer.

1 Frommer’s Best of Vienna • Listening to Mozart: It is said DDSG, or Blue Danube Shipping that at any time of the day or Co. (& 01/588-800), offers 1-day night in Vienna, someone some- trips with cruises priced for every where is playing the music of budget. While on board, you’ll Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. You pass some of the most famous might hear it at an opera house, a sights in eastern Austria, including church, a festival, an open-air con- towns like Krems and Melk. See cert, or, more romantically, in a p. 138. Belle Epoque cafe performed by a • Watching the Lippizaner Stal- Hungarian orchestra. Regardless, lions: Nothing evokes the heyday “the sound of music” drifting of imperial Vienna more than the through Vienna is likely to be the Spanish Riding School (& 01/ creation of this prodigious genius. 533-9032). Here, the sleek white See section 1, “The Performing stallions and their expert riders Arts,” in chapter 9. demonstrate the classic art of dres- • Cruising the Danube (Donau): sage in choreographed leaps and Johann Strauss used a bit of poetic bounds. The stallions, a cross- license when he called the Donau breed of Spanish thoroughbreds “The Blue Danube”—it’s actually and Karst horses, are the finest a muddy green. Cruising the river equestrian performers on earth. is nevertheless a highlight of any Riders wear black bicorn hats Viennese vacation. The legendary with doeskin breeches and brass 03 524364 Ch01.qxd 3/31/03 8:54 AM Page 4

4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF VIENNA

buttons. The public is admitted to summer palace, which lies on the watch; make reservations 6 to 8 outskirts of the city and boasts weeks in advance. See p. 114. magnificent gardens. See chap- • Heurigen Hopping in the ter 6. Vienna Woods: Heurigen are rus- • Biking Along the Danube: A tic wine taverns that celebrate the riverside bike trail between arrival of each year’s new wine Vienna and Naarn links interest- (heuriger) by placing a pine ing villages, including Melk and branch over the door. The Vien- Dürnstein. As you pedal along, nese rush to the taverns to drink you’ll pass castles of yesteryear, the new local wines and feast medieval towns, and latticed vine- on country buffets. Some heuri- yards. Route maps are available at gen have garden tables with the Vienna Tourist Office, and panoramic views of the Danube you can rent bikes at the ferry or Valley; others provide shaded, train stations. See p. 137. centuries-old courtyards where • Attending an Auction at revelers enjoy live folk music. Try Dorotheum: Vienna is a treasure the red wines from Vöslau, the trove of art and antiques, and as Sylvaner of Grinzing, or the Ries- many estates break up, much of it ling of Nussberg. See section 4, goes on sale. The main venue for “The Heurigen,” in chapter 9. art and antiques is Dorotheum, • Feasting on Tafelspitz, “The Dorotheergasse 17 (& 01/5156- Emperor’s Dish”: No Austrian 0449), the state-owned auction dish is more typical than the house. Founded in 1707, it fabled tafelspitz (boiled beef) remains one of the great European favored by Emperor Franz Joseph. depositories of objets d’art. Items Boiled beef sounds dull, but tafel- here are likely to be expensive; if spitz is far from bland. A tender you’re looking for something more delicacy, the “table end” cut affordable, try the summer Satur- absorbs a variety of flavors, day and Sunday outdoor art and including juniper berries, celery antiques market along the root, and onions. Apple-and- Danube Canal (between Schwe- horseradish sauce further enlivens denbrücke and Salztorbrücke). the dish, which is usually served See p. 159. with fried grated potatoes. For • Savoring the Legendary Sacher- Vienna’s best tafelspitz, try the torte: Café Demel (& 01/533- Sacher Hotel Restaurant, in 5516), the most famous cafe in the Wien (& 01/ Vienna, has a long-standing feud 514560). See p. 86. with the Sacher Hotel Restau- • Revisiting the Habsburgs: One rant, in the Hotel Sacher Wien of the great dynastic ruling fami- (& 01/514560), over who has the lies of Europe, the Habsburgs right to sell the legendary and ruled the Austro-Hungarian original , a rich choco- Empire from their imperial court late cake with a layer of apricot in Vienna. You can still witness jam. Actually, a court settled the their grandeur as you stroll matter in 1965, ruling in favor of through the Inner City. The Hof- Hotel Sacher. But Demel still burg, the family’s winter palace, is claims that the chef who invented a living architectural textbook, the torte brought “the original dating from 1279. Also be sure to recipe” with him when he left visit Schönbrunn, the sprawling the Sacher to work for Demel. 03 524364 Ch01.qxd 3/31/03 8:54 AM Page 5

FROMMER’S BEST OF VIENNA 5

Settle the dispute yourself by sam- • Enjoying a Night at the Opera: pling the Sachertorte at both of Nothing is more Viennese than these venerated establishments. dressing up and heading to the See p. 105 and 186. Staatsoper, one of the world’s • Unwinding in a Viennese Cof- greatest opera houses, where feehouse: The coffeehouse still ascending the grand marble stair- flourishes here in its most perfect case is almost as exhilarating as form. You can spend hours reading the show. Built in the 1860s, newspapers (supplied free), writing the Staatsoper suffered severe dam- memoirs, or planning the rest of age during World War II. It your stay in Vienna. And of course reopened in 1955 with a produc- there’s the coffee, prepared 20 to tion of Beethoven’s Fidelio, mark- 30 different ways, from Weissen ing Austria’s independence from Ohne (with milk) to Mocca occupation. Both Richard Strauss Gespritzt (black with a shot of rum and Gustav Mahler directed here, or brandy). A glass of ice-cold and the world’s most renowned water always accompanies a cup of opera stars continue to perform, coffee in Vienna, as well as the accompanied, of course, by the world’s most delectable or Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra. slice of cake. See section 14, “Cof- See p. 170. feehouses & Cafes,” in chapter 5. • Hearing the Vienna Boys’ • Strolling the Kärntnerstrasse: Choir: In this city steeped in Lying at the heart of Viennese life musical traditions and institu- is the bustling, pedestrian-only tions, one group has distinguished Kärntnerstrasse. From morning to itself among all others: the Vienna night, shoppers parade along the Boys’ Choir, or Wiener Sängerk- merchandise-laden boulevard; naben. Created by that great street performers, including musi- patron of the arts, Maximilian I, cians and magicians, are always in 1498, the choir still performs out to amuse. For a break, retreat Masses by Mozart and Haydn at to one of the cafe terraces for some the Hofburgkapelle on Sundays of the best people-watching in and holidays from September Vienna. See “Walking Tour 1: through June. See p. 110 and Imperial Vienna,” in chapter 7. p. 111. • Playing at the Prater: Ever since • Discovering the Majesty of St. Emperor Joseph II opened the Stephan’s Cathedral: Crowned Prater to the public in the 18th by a 450-foot steeple, Dompfarre century, the Viennese have flocked St. Stephan, Vienna’s cathedral, is to the park for summer fun. The one of Europe’s great Gothic Prater has abundant tree-lined structures. Albert Stifter, the paths on which to jog or stroll (the acclaimed Austrian writer, wrote Viennese, in general, are much that its “sheer beauty lifts the fonder of strolling). The amuse- spirit.” The cathedral’s vast tiled ment park boasts a looming Ferris roof is exactly twice the height of wheel that was immortalized in its walls. Intricate altarpieces, the Orson Welles film The Third stone canopies, and masterful Man. Open-air cafes line the park, Gothic sculptures are just some of which also provides an array of the treasures that lie within. sports facilities, including tennis Climb the spiral steps to the courts and a golf course. See South Tower for a panoramic view p. 132. of the city. See p. 116. 03 524364 Ch01.qxd 3/31/03 8:54 AM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF VIENNA

Did You Know? The Viennese have always been hospitable to foreigners, except during a time in the late 18th century when the emperor felt that tourists might spread pernicious ideas. Non-Austrians were limited to a 1-week stay in the capital.

2 Best Hotel Bets For the details on these and other course) when you close the deal. hotels, see chapter 4. Many guests like to treat their • Best Historic Hotel: Built clients to dinner at the Bristol’s in 1869, the Hotel Imperial elegant restaurant, Korso bei der (& 800/325-3589 in the U.S., or Oper. See p. 53. 01/501100) is the “official guest • Best for a Romantic Getaway: Set house of Austria.” It has presided on 15 acres of manicured gardens, over much of the city’s history, Hotel im Palais Schwarzenberg from the heyday of the Austro- (& 01/798-4515) has an elegant, Hungarian Empire to defeat in even noble atmosphere. Although two world wars. All the famous perched in the center of a city, it and infamous of the world have feels like an old country estate. checked in. Wagner, for example, Built 3 centuries ago by the worked on key sections of both baroque masters Hildebrandt and Tannhäuser and Lohengrin here in Fisher von Erlach, the palace 1875, and some of the great cul- remains a luxurious world of crys- tural icons of this century—from tal, marble, and gilt. See p. 67. Margot Fonteyn to Herbert von • Best for Families: Only a 4- Karajan—have been guests. See minute walk from St. Stephan’s p. 56. Cathedral, Hotel Kärntnerhof • Best Trendy Hotel: Created by (& 01/512-1923) is a small, kid- the famous English architect Sir friendly hotel in the center of Terence Conran, Hotel Das Tri- Vienna. It offers a superb location, est (& 01/589-18) attracts the attentive staff, and good prices. artistic elite to its stylish precincts Rooms are spacious enough to near St. Stephan’s. Originally a accommodate families and come stable, it’s come a long way, baby, equipped with modern amenities. and now is elegant, luxurious, and See p. 65. stylish. Rooms are decorated with • Best Moderately Priced Hotel: a distinctive flair. See p. 58. In the heart of Old Vienna, less • Best for Business Travelers: With than a block from the cathedral, state-of-the-art business equip- Hotel Royal (& 01/515680) was ment and an incredibly helpful completely rebuilt in 1982. In this staff, the Hotel Bristol (& 888/ price bracket, not many hotels can 625-5144 in the U.S., or 01/ compete with the Royal in terms 515-160) is the choice of interna- of class. In the lobby, you’ll find tional business travelers. Some the piano Wagner used when he suites are large enough for busi- was composing Die Meistersinger ness meetings, and room service Von Nürnberg. See p. 63. will quickly deliver hors d’oeuvres • Best Budget Hotel: Between the and champagne (for a price, of State Opera and the famous 03 524364 Ch01.qxd 3/31/03 8:54 AM Page 7

BEST DINING BETS 7

Naschmarkt, Hotel Schneider The Ambassador has enjoyed its (& 01/588380) is a modern position here since 1866, and it five-story building, traditionally has played host to both Mark furnished with 19th-century Twain and Theodore Roosevelt. antiques. Comfortable and cozy, it See p. 53. attracts singers, musicians, artists, • Best Health Club: The Vienna and actors (not the big stars). This Hilton (& 800/445-8667 in the hotel is also popular among fami- U.S., or 01/717000), under dif- lies because many of the rooms ferent management, sponsors the have kitchenettes. See p. 72. Pyrron Health Club on its prem- • Best Pension (B&B): Near the ises. This is, by far, the most pro- busy Mariahilferstrasse, Pension fessional health club in town, with Altstadt Vienna (& 01/1526- state-of-the-art equipment and 3399) has an elegant atmosphere facilities for both men and exemplified by its colorful, velvet- women. See p. 70. laden Red Salon lounge. The • Best Hotel Pool: Of the three rooms don’t disappoint either: hotels in town that have pools, the Each is the work of an individual biggest and best is in the Euro designer and has high ceilings, Freizeit und Fitness spa in the antiques, and parquet floors. This windowless cellar of the Vienna is hardly a lowly pension, but a Marriott (& 800/228-9290 in fair-priced and prestigious address the U.S., or 01/515180). It’s with its own special charms. See about 36 feet by 24 feet and p. 73. ringed with potted plants and • Best Service: The Hotel de tables. The spa has a pair of France (& 01/31368), near the saunas, an exercise room, and Votivkirche, is hardly the best massage facilities. Marriott guests hotel in Vienna, but the attentive enter free; nonguests pay 14€ to and highly professional staff use the pool and fitness center, makes a stay here particularly 19€ for the pool, fitness center, delightful. Room service is effi- and sauna. It’s open daily from cient, messages are delivered 7am to 10pm. See p. 60. promptly, and the housekeepers • Best Views: Overlooking the turn down your bed at night. See Danube Canal, the 18-story p. 53. Vienna Hilton (see earlier entry, • Best Location: Although it’s no “Best Health Club”) offers Bristol or Imperial, the Hotel panoramic views from its top Ambassador (& 01/961610) is floors. Plush accommodations definitely where you want to be. and elegant public rooms also lure The hotel lies between the State guests. The cityscape views are Opera and St. Stephan’s, with the quite dramatic at both dawn and Kärntnerstrasse on the other side. sunset. See p. 70.

3 Best Dining Bets For details on these and other restau- imperial Vienna. Franz Joseph’s rants, see chapter 5. favorite dish was tafelspitz, a • Best Spot for a Romantic Din- delectable boiled beef dinner ner: The Sacher Hotel Restau- that’s still served here, along with rant, in the Hotel Sacher Wien various Viennese and interna- (& 01/514560), is a showcase for tional dishes. And the fabled 03 524364 Ch01.qxd 3/31/03 8:54 AM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF VIENNA

Sachertorte was invented here. See flock here for the simple but tasty p. 86. food and a wine list that includes • Best Spot for a Business Lunch: some 250 varieties. All the vin- Most afternoons you’ll find the tages are Austrian. Very patriotic. movers and shakers of Vienna at See p. 87. Korso bei Der Oper, in the Hotel • Best Value: If you’re seeking a reli- Bristol (& 01/5151-6546). The able Austrian and international refined menu features Viennese kitchen, and don’t want to go and international , and broke sampling its wares, head for guests can conduct business with the Hotel Astoria Restaurant the assurance of good food and (& 01/5157-7172). This time- impeccable, unobtrusive service. honored favorite retains the See p. 85. authentic Jugendstil (Art Nou- • Best Spot for a Celebration: veau) look of its past and is an ele- When you want to take your sig- gant spot to try moderately priced nificant other or a group of friends Old Viennese cooking. See p. 89. to a special place, Altwienerhof • Best for Kids: When your kids (& 01/892-6000), serving Aus- rebel against sauerkraut and trian and French cuisine, is a dis- sausage, they might find that A criminating choice. A private Tavola (& 01/512-7955) offers home in the 1870s, it is now one something more familiar. It’s one of the city’s premier restaurants. of the more reasonably priced Of course, if it’s a real celebration, restaurants in town, and the many you’ll order champagne, but if varieties of pasta will please the not, you’ll find one of Vienna’s palates of young and old alike. See largest wine cellars here. See p. 91. p. 103. • Best Viennese Cuisine: If the • Best Cafe Dining: Installed in the empire were ever restored in Aus- old glassed-in palm garden of tria, you’d want to take the new Kaiser Franz Josef’s palace, Pal- Kaiser or Kaiserin to Drei menhaus (& 01/533-1033) has Husaren (& 01/512-1092). been restored to its original splen- Expect an impeccably prepared dor. The hottest cafe restaurant in meal containing the finest ingredi- Vienna, it features well-honed ents. Antiques and abundant . See p. 90. flowers add to the elegant setting, • Best Decor: At Steirereck (& 01/ but the focus is the delectable 713-3168), which means “corner menu. It includes a nightly reper- of Styria,” the decor is pristine and toire of some 35 hors d’oeuvres. pure, with original beams and See p. 84. archways transplanted from an old • Best Italian Cuisine: Homemade Styrian castle. Murals also add to pastas in savory sauces are the the elegant ambience, but the draw at Firenze Enoteca, in the food is what brings most guests Hotel Royal (& 01/513-4374), here. See p. 96. in the heart of Vienna, near St. • Best Wine List: There are far Stephan’s Cathedral. Most of the more elegant restaurants in food is Tuscany-inspired, with Vienna and far better places serv- some salutes to other regions of ing haute cuisine, but the wine list Italy. See p. 88. at Wiebels Wirtshaus (& 01/ • Best Hungarian Cuisine: If you 512-3986) is definitely for the can’t visit neighboring Budapest, connoisseur. Discerning Austrians you can get a taste of Hungarian 03 524364 Ch01.qxd 3/31/03 8:54 AM Page 9

BEST DINING BETS 9

fare at Kardos (& 01/512-6949). • Best Afternoon Tea: Situated Try all the Gypsy schmaltz across from the , the favorites, including Lake Balaton– grand Café Central (& 01/533- style fish soup. See p. 89. 3763) is an ideal location for a • Best Seafood: The freshest spot of tea. The decor evokes the seafood in Vienna—flown in from rich trappings of late imperial the North Sea or the Bosphorus— Vienna. You’ll find a wide selec- is available in the center of town at tion of tea (and coffee) as well the Kervansaray und Hummer as a rich variety of pastries and Bar (& 01/512-8843). Here, desserts. See p. 105. you’ll find Vienna’s finest lobster • Best Brunch: In a style that catch. See p. 84 would have impressed Maria • Best for Game: In a land of Theresa herself, Café Imperial, in hunters, wild game is still very the Hotel Imperial (& 01/5011- popular among the Viennese, who 0389), prepares an outstanding flock to Sailer (& 01/4792- breakfast buffet on Sundays 1210). The chefs prepare such beginning at 7am. After brunch dishes as wild boar, pheasant, and and a little champagne, the day is partridge—all according to time- yours! See p. 106. honored recipes. See p. 104. • Best Music Feast: To a true • Best Desserts: Sweet tooths flock Viennese, a meal is not a meal to the legendary Café Demel without music. At Wiener (& 01/533-5516). Café Demel Rathauskeller, in City Hall took the Hotel Sacher to court (& 01/4051-2190), you’ll enjoy over the recipe for the original all the and sauerkraut Sachertorte—now you can be the you can eat while listening to judge. Demel also boasts Vienna’s musicians ramble through the finest array of pastries and delec- world of operetta, waltz, and table desserts like Gugelhupfs Schrammerl. See p. 87. (cream-filled horns). See p. 105. • Best Picnic Fare: Head for the • Best Outdoor Dining: In one of Naschmarkt, the open-air food Vienna’s most famous hotels, market that’s a 5-minute stroll Restaurant at Palais Schwarzen- from the Karlsplatz. Here you can berg (& 01/798-4515) boasts the gather all the ingredients for a most beautiful dining terrace in the spectacular picnic and then enjoy entire city. Classic Viennese cuisine it at the Stadtpark, the Volks- and a stellar wine list only enhance garten, or even in the Vienna this summer delight. See p. 95. Woods. See p. 100.