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August 2012

Edition 94 ISSN 1898-4762 www.krakowpost.com LAST CALL FOR OLT LOW COST AIRLINE BANKRUPT Mogilska makeover

…bold urban plans

Rubbish“ revolution

Anthony Casey Two days later the company announced possible. on Twitter: “Today the company has filed A message on the OLT website said: “All A no-frills airline that operates routes from for bankruptcy. We wish to inform you that passengers are entitled to reimbursement. Krakow and won admiration for giving a decision by the Civil Aviation Authority We apologise for all the inconvenience.” passengers free food and drinks has filed means that as of July 27, OLT has had its Just one day before the company for bankruptcy. operating licence revoked with immediate collapsed, managing director Jarosław …cleaning up Krakow OLT Express announced on July 25 that effect.” Frankowski told Puls Biznesu that it was it was suspending some flights, operated by All passengers whose flights have been not going bankrupt. “ the domestic arm OLT Express Regional, cancelled will be contacted by the airline’s Speaking of the flights cancelled earlier, Allotment threat until further notice. The company, owned call centre and advised how to claim he said: “We took the decision to do this by Amber Gold Group, which invested a their refund. Some may also be entitled at the request of a potential investor who reported 200 million zł, said the suspension to compensation. , owned by the does not want to take over a company was a condition of an investor interested in Polish flag carrier LOT, said it would riddled with debt. It won’t be long before buying shares in OLT Express. take OLT passengers on similar routes, if we know what the investor wants to do.”

FILHARMONIC POWER STRUGGLE “ …a way of life in the balance The man who resigned the directorship Olympic cavalcade of Filharmonia Krakowska after just five months in the job, in protest at funding cuts, could be poised for a return to the city’s premiere classical music venue. Tadeusz Strugała took up the post of director at Filharmonia in May 2008. But his tenure was short-lived, as a cut in regional funding – from PLN 2.5 million to PLN 1.4 million - set the scene for a stand-off between the director and the …’s Olympians Małopolska regional authorities, which resulted in Mr Strugała walking out in “ September. He was replaced, as joint general and artistic director, by Paweł Przytocki, in the following month. Now Mr Przytocki is retiring on health grounds, and one of his potential successors, trumpeter Czesław Dołęga, is in favour of Mr Strugała’s return as artistic director. -born Tadeusz Strugała’s pedigree is unquestionable. Filharmonia Krakowska (Photo: David McGirr) He studied music in Wrocław 2 Krakow Post | August 2012 www.krakowpost.com

Makeover for Mogilska ‘Aircraft Carrier’ barges onto increasingly busy riverside

Anthony Casey boulevard at Manggha, it obscures views of Wawel. In turn, from the boulevards at A new floating conference centre – the Wawel, it covers Manggha. There were largest barge to dock on the banks of also comments concerning the size of the Wisła river – is being constructed the barge – which would be unable to opposite Wawel Castle, and has already fit under any of Krakow’s bridges once sparked controversy. construction was complete. The Stefan Batory, named after one of “They wanted me authorise the Poland’s greatest kings, will be able to mooring of the barge at Wawel, but I accommodate 400 people at a time. It firmly refused,” said the Chief Artist of has three levels, forming the conference Krakow, Jacek Stokłosa, adding “For now space, restaurant and terrace café, towers it looks like an aircraft carrier. The Wisła 9.3 metres above the water, and measures river is only for those boats that resemble 54 metres in length. traditional forms.” Proud designer Adam Paniak told The Stefan Batory has four mooring Gazeta Wyborcza that the barge would piles on the river. The city authorities be covered with white canvas sails when have heard complaints, but adopted a it was complete. He said: I wanted to ‘wait and see’ policy. Halina Szłapa, of Visualisations of plans to renew ul. Mogilska (Images: Przestrzeń-Ludzie-Miasto) create a piece of nice space with a unique Zarządu Infrastruktury Sportowej (the expression. I wanted this boat stand out Office of Infrastructure and Sport), said from others in form.” more than a lease was needed. But the boat has drawn unwanted She added: “The owner of the craft attention from some quarters – with must provide us with a set of documents complaints from Krakow’s head artist, and certificates, including the positive and from members of the public, to local opinion of the city artist.” Polish media and on internet message There are currently some 11 boats boards. One poster on the Skyscraper docked on the Wisła in Krakow, most of City website said: “When you are on the which are bars or restaurants. Historic Painting – 5,000zł ONO

More parking spaces, wider pavements, are no shops), live comfortably (because Anthony Casey painting. It depicts St Mary Salome, and cycle paths and green spaces… this, of noise, fumes, lack of greenery), or ride is a fragment that has been cut inexpertly according to the newspaper Gazeta a bike (there is no cycle path). Nor are A priceless work of art has been discovered from a larger work. Krakowska, could be the future look of there parking spaces. by an employee of the Krakow Historical Ms Bury told the newspaper Gazeta one of the main routes into Krakow city “We are deeply convinced that it is Museum – for sale on internet auction site Krakowska: “For the first time in my life centre. possible to simultaneously increase the Allegro.pl. I saw a picture from the medieval years, The newspaper reports that the capacity of the street, increasing the Katarzyna Bury, who works at the untouched by the hand of a conservator, organisation PLM (Przestrzeń-Ludzie- number of parking spaces, adding a lot of Hipolit House branch of the museum, with the layer of paint preserved in a state Miasto), working with architects and green, convenient bicycle paths and wide was searching the web for a book about in which the artist left it. urban planners, has drawn up plans for pavements.” panel painting, when she stumbled across As for the true value of the find… not the redevelopment of Mogilska. The PLM proposals include a central the image. even the experts want to comment. It was The project website, alejamogilska. tram line at 7.5m wide, two traffic lanes She said the Medieval picture up for PLN 5,000 on Allegro, but Gazeta pl, states: “We all know Mogilska. and two parking lanes, a two-way cycle immediately caught her attention, and, Krakowska reports that, as most similar Today, it is by and large boring and grey, path, at pavements between 4.5m and after consulting a colleague at the Institute pieces are seen only in museums and with holes in the road and very narrow 5.5m wide. The project’s authors cite of Art History, approached the seller. churches, it is likely to be worth much pavements on both sides. Although it is similar schemes that have worked well Initially, Ms Bury posed as a potential more. located in the geographical center of the in areas of other European cities, such as buyer, but when she revealed her identity The painting has now been withdrawn city, one cannot go shopping here (there , Dublin and . the seller agreed to let her see the from Allegro.

Płoska, Warcisław Kunc, former general Krakow Post is a monthly FILHARMONIA and artistic director of Opera at the New parking publication published by Castle, Dariusz Mikulski, of Lifeboat Ltd. and , before going on to head the Academy of Music in Łódż, Marek New parking restrictions are being enforced ISSN: 1898-4762 the Wrocław Philarmonic from 1969 Budzik, of the Polish Music Publishing in Podgórze – opening up on-road parking www.krakowpost.com to 1980. During that time he also had house in Krakow, and Maciej Bielski, in some streets, and banning it in others. Marta Firlet-Bradshaw, Publisher stints as head of the Ankara Symphony working with TV3 in Krakow. Drivers will be able to park on the right [email protected] Orchestra (1977-79), and head of the A decision on the next director of hand side of ul. Smolka, thanks to the Jamie Stokes, Managing Editor Krakow Philharmonic Orchestra (1981- Filharmonia Krakowska was due to be introduction of a one-way system to the [email protected] 86). From 1979-90 he was also deputy taken by a commission appointed by the road from the ul. Kalwaryjska end. artistic director and permanent conductor Dana Dramowicz, Nightlife Editor Małopolska Region, as the Krakow Post However, it will no longer be possible [email protected] of the National Philharmonic in , went to press. to park on ul. Rollego, next to the park, Darren Wilde, Design then Artistic Director and Principal Paweł Przytocki announced his decision because there are three pedestrian crossings Conductor of the Polish Radio Orchestra to leave in January, after extended periods there. Six new places have been created For advertising inquiries, in Warsaw until 1993. From 1994 to 2001 of sick leave. The application process for at Rynek Podgórski, but a ban has been please contact: he was a guest conductor with the his successor opened in April, and the enforced around Most Piłsudskiego. Group Sales Manager Symphony Orchestra. winner was to be announced earlier this A spokesman for Krakow’s infrastructure [email protected] Besides Czesław Dołęga, the candidates summer, but a decision was delayed to and transport office, said it was essential to +48 (12) 429 16 99 on the shortlist for director of Filharmonia allow the commission time to examine consider both the safety of pedestrians and Printers, www.polskapresse.pl Krakowska include viola player Beata documentation and interview candidates. convenience for drivers. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post | August 2012 3

A Revolution in Rubbish Sales and Business Development Director

Reporting to the owner, this board level position offers both challenge and reward.

The primary responsibility of this position is to ensure the business success of the newspaper by:

Recruiting, motivating and managing the advertising sales team

Developing and improving relationships with key advertisers and other key partners in Krakow’s international eco-system (consulates, cultural bodies, local government, business, associations and community groups)

Identifying new products and services to generate new, long term income streams

Photo: David McGirr Working with the editor to plan a calendar to match the needs of partners and advertisers

Krakow city council is to take full control understood that MPO will ultimately decide You will be highly motivated, energetic, open minded and have good interpersonal of refuse collection, in a shake-up of the on how much residents must segregate their skills. Beyond a strong ‘business sense’ of how to find and take advantage of system that will establish home recycling domestic waste for recycling. opportunities that arise from being the premier source of English language printed and bring the city in line with new national Wacław Skubida, of Krakow’s Municipal information in Krakow, you must be ready and willing to develop relationships. You guidelines – but could spell the end for some Magistrates office, said city residents must understand the importance of developing a respectful and professional small-scale waste management firms. would be asked for input on this and other working relationship with the editorial and production staff. The new law – which will help to bring aspects of the plan – which must be fully Previous relevant experience is welcome, but anyone who can convince us that they Poland up to European Union standards implemented by July 2013. MPO itself will have the drive and commitment to make this happen is welcome to get in touch. – came into force in January. It puts full be split into two parts – one responsible responsibility for refuse collection and for organising collection and treatment of We offer a highly competitive compensation package to the right person, and waste management on local authorities. waste, which will remain under the control unlimited opportunities for Career Development. The city has up to now been kept of the city, and one for transport, which will Please send your CV to [email protected] including your earning history clean by the Municipal Waste Disposal be privatised. Services under both sections service (Miejskiego Przedsiębiorstwa will be put out to tender. Oczyszczania), but individuals and It is this last point that has caused concern. companies have retained the right to hire The newspaper Gazeta Wyborcza writes private firms to collect domestic and that time is running out for collection and business waste. The council has already treatment firms to prepare their bids – even agreed that MPO should in future hire though the rules for submitting a tender companies to collect rubbish, arrange the have not yet been agreed. The newspaper level and collection of fees for services, also said that smaller firms face bankruptcy clean unoccupied plots – thereby allowing in the face of those businesses able to offer the removal of illegal dumps and fly- more competitive rates. tipping sites, organise recycling and waste Wyborcza journalist Bartosz Piłat treatment to meet EU standards, clean wrote: “This is bad news, because the streets and green areas, and clear snow fewer collection companies, the less price from roads. competition. For several dozen years, cities The final structure of the new service, may be doomed to accept the prices dictated and how it will work in practice, have yet by the large companies that will survive the to be agreed by councillors. However, it is ‘rubbish revolution.’” Anthony Casey Tougher train ticket rules For rail passengers boarding trains without in tenders will soon increase.” Krakow Post is a monthly a ticket in Krakow, it is no longer a good But Mr Siemieński added that the impact publication published by idea to wait for someone to come along and on passengers should not be ‘severe.’ Lifeboat Ltd. GREAT IDEA FOR YOUR AFTERNOON ISSN: 1898-4762 sell them one. Instead, they must seek out In some places where ticket offices www.krakowpost.com the conductor and buy a ticket – or face a were closed, they would be replaced by VISITING THE SCHINDLER’S MUSEUM? fine when checks are carried out. machines, he said. He told Wyborcza that RELAX WITH OUR 60 EUR PACKAGE AFTERWARDS:* Marta Firlet-Bradshaw, Publisher [email protected] But it is going to be harder than ever to the majority of passengers boarding trains buy a ticket beforehand, as many ticket without a ticket already went straight to the 1 HR MASSAGE IN OUR WELLNESS Jamie Stokes, Managing Editor offices in smaller towns are being closed. conductor’s carriage. He added that around 3-DISH DINNER WITH WINE [email protected] And there will be a surcharge of 8zł for 60 to 70 per cent of passengers using the FUN IN OUR POOL, JACUZZI AND SAUNAS Dana Dramowicz, Nightlife Editor those who do choose to buy on board from Małopolska regional service would not *package excludes tickets to the Schindler’s Museum [email protected] the conductor. notice a difference, because they used Darren Wilde, Design Andrzej Siemieński, director of season tickets. For advertising inquiries, the regional rail operator (Przewozy The shake-up also means job losses at please contact: Regionalne) in Małopolska, told the Przewozy Regionalne Małopolska. Mr Hotel Galaxy & Restaurant Andromeda Group Sales Manager newspaper Gazeta Wyborcza that an Siemieński said: “We are talking with Gęsia 22a, 31-535 Kraków (Kazimierz & Podgórze District) [email protected], T: +48 12 342 81 00 [email protected] increasing number of rail carriers across employees about having to make changes +48 (12) 429 16 99 Poland meant that there was greater to adapt to market requirements. Savings www.galaxyhotel.pl Printers, www.polskapresse.pl competition for market share. He said: “We are necessary and I am convinced that the www.jordan.pl have to take into account that soon increase unions understand it.” 50° 3' 11" N 19° 57' 32" E the number of operators who will take part Anthony Casey 4 Krakow Post | August 2012 www.krakowpost.com Bollywood beats a path to Krakow

Filming of Azaan (Photo: Krakow Film Commission) Filming of The Rhythm (Photo: Krakow Film Commission)

Giuseppe Sedia home to get them through the day, pulling parties combining film screenings Krakow narrowly defeated Prague out thermos flasks full of mixed-spice and choreography were launched in as the chosen location for the filming It’s a scorching hot afternoon on the set of tea as the Polish goras sweat in the sun. Poland. Bombay Dreams, Poland’s first of Azaan (2012), mainly thanks to The Rhythm, the latest Bollywood feature During the filming of Fanaa (2007), Bollywood themed dance company was the perseverance of the Krakow Film to be shot in Krakow. which was shot in the Tatra Mountains, established in Warsaw in the same period, Commission and the range of services A corpulent cameraman is scooting the Indian crew brought a cricket set with and distributors began to hunt for Indian they were able to offer the Indian crew. In back and forth with unexpected agility them and played in the snow. films,” explains Kamila. October 2011, the Old Town was briefly across the Market Square. The Polish- Centred on the love affair between a The popularity of Hindi romances has transformed into a Bollywood fantasy, Indian crew are stuck on a tracking shot, mountain guide and a blind Kashmiri girl, also been fostered by the Polish press, with dramatic pyrotechnics and perilous closing-in on two actors playing Hindi Fanaa was the first Bollywood picture to which has experimented with distributing chases across the balconies overlooking students sipping drinks in front of St be shot in Poland. Despite wintry weather inexpensive DVD supplements to boost Plac Szczepański. Mary’s church. The sequence has been that obliged the crew to wear balaclavas, sales and circulation. Agora, which Things do not always go smoothly, repeated over and over again, but tempers the Mumbai troupe was impressed by the publishes Gazeta Wyborcza, sought to especially given the unfamiliarly strict remain under control. technical skill and helpfulness of their draw readers to the short-lived daily approach to ‘official’ permission found According to the screenplay, the students Polish hosts. Nowy Dzień by distributing Bollwywood in Poland. “At one point, the Indian fall in love after arriving in Poland to On their journey through the Małopolska features for one złoty. crew were surprised to hear that special study at the Jagiellonian University. The region, Bollywood big wigs were also Indian superstar Amitabh Bachchan’s permission was required to film in young Indian stars are surrounded by a enraptured by Krakow, which had not been appearance at the Off Plus Camera Film Saint Mary’s Church,” explains Anna group of ‘gora,’ white European walk-ons, included on their list of possible locations. Festival in 2011 represented a milestone in Zajączkowska. populating a reconstructed pavement bar. “They were looking for Kashmiri scenery relations between Poland and Bollywood, On the other hand, labour costs in They have been recruited by the Krakow in Poland, but ended up discovering a and created a among Indian producers Poland are significantly lower than in Film Commission, which is supporting city full of exotic charm,” explains Polish looking for exotic locations at reasonable other European markets. “Finding a crew the shooting of the latest Bollywood cinéaste Jakub Pączek. cost. elsewhere in Europe willing to work feature to be drawn to the city’s stunning The sudden interest in Indian film in Attempts to attract Indian entrepreneurs overtime and for more than 12 hours per backdrops and infrastructure. Poland can be seen as a long-deserved to Europe have recently become day can be very difficult,” she adds. Anna Zajączkowska, Polish line- payoff for a dedicated group of increasingly strenuous. On a national The day is almost over and the Polish- producer for the romance being shot by who have followed developments in level, several countries now offer tax Indian crew have done their best to take Indian director Vivek Kumar, is doing Bollywood for years. According to incentives in the form of VAT refunds. advantage of every moment of available her best to keep the set running smoothly. tour-guide and India enthusiast, Kamila Local tourist boards have also been light. Director Kumar is pleased with the “I’ve already worked for Bollywood as Szanduła, the successful screening of looking to attract more visitors from day’s shoot, but the Indian reputation a location manager for the action movie Kabhi Khushi Kabhie Gham... (2001), India, and film commissions have done for break-neck film production shows Azaan, which was shot partly in Krakow,” starring Amitabh Bachchan and Shahrukh their best to assist foreign film crews. through: “The hosting crew have been she says, adjusting a makeshift turban Khan, in 2004 inaugurated the local vogue The Krakow Film Commission is barely terribly professional, but we could have fashioned from a shirt. for Bollywood. two years old, but has done sterling work shot more footage today,” he muses, as The Indian crew have comforts from “One year later, the first Bombay bringing foreign film crews to the city. technicians dismantle the equipment. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post | August 2012 5

End in sight for road to nowhere SOUVENIRS FROM POLAND AND KRAKOW T-shirts from 20 PLN (5 euros) to 400 PLN Large selection of magnets, Ukrainian matryoshka dolls, key chains, shot glasses (from 18 PLN per set, 6 pcs.) Porcelain cups (14 PLN per piece) Sale of licensed "EURO 2012" merchandise. NEED PROTECTION FROM THE ul. Lema ends abruptly (Photo: Krakow Film Commission) RAIN? We have a large selection of At just under a kilometre in length, the seater Krakow arena currently under four lane highway that is Krakow’s ul. construction (Hala widowiskowo- umbrellas and raincoats (ask seller) Stanisława Lema is a gem of modern sportowa w Krakowie-Czyżynach). Site roadbuilding… that goes nowhere. workers and heavy equipment currently Payment accepted in Euro, USD, Less than two years old, its immaculate have the highway to themselves. PLN, we do not take credit cards. tarmac sweeps north from Al. Pokoju, In July, city authorities began the through waste ground to the east of the process of acquiring the strip of land it LOW PRICES Plaża shopping centre, and ends in a back needs to complete the link with Al. Jana garden. Pawła. Two of the ten property owners Like a metaphorical plot device from involved have agreed to hand over their a movie made during the worst days of land, at prices typically paid by private the PRL, ul. Lema has become famous developers. Others are less keen to make as Krakow’s ‘road to nowhere.’ When it a deal. was opened with a flourish in 2010, locals According to Gazeta Wyborcza, the noted that the surrealist sci-fi writer after owner of a tyre garage in the path of the which it is named could not have invented road said: “How is the city intending to anything more absurd. pay us if there is no money in Krakow’s The road stops at the back of a series budget? of properties along Al. Jana Pawła II, the A spokesperson for the local major thoroughfare it is intended to meet. infrastructure authority, ZIKiT said: The city failed to secure the necessary “We will not dispossess the residents planning to build this junction, and to without giving them compensation… The compulsorily purchase these properties, necessary funds have been secured and before ul. Lema was completed. there is no need for any changes to the Despite public perception, ul. Lema is budget.” not entirely unused. One of its purposes Work on ul. Lema is due to continue togetheR on the Roof top teRRace & Lounge BaR was to provide access to the 15,000- later this year. Jamie Stokes Razem na taRasie widokowym & Lounge BaR Home for poet’s archive The archive of Krakow’s Nobel Prize a number which will not be available to winning poet Wisława Szymborska is to go researchers until after 2017. to the Jagiellonian University, in line with Prof Pietrzyk added: “She did not the wishes expressed in her will. personally value the notes and records The entire archive will add to the collection of those lines that were already printed. already held at the university, including Her colleagues argued that everything letters congratulating her on winning the that comes out of her pen is extremely prize. Professor Zdzislaw Pietrzyk, director valuable.” of the Jagiellonian University Library, said The archive is likely to remain with he was delighted with the news, and that the university for at least ten years. Her Szymborska had visited the library many former secretary Michał Rusinek said those Unique place Celebrate located on the 5th floor of Sheraton Krakow Hotel. Special moments are better times to deposit manuscripts. Among some documents that could be shared would be Impressively appointed Lounge Bar in the center of Krakow. when shared. Perfect for 19 volumes of correspondence, there are made freely available. meeting your family & friends Enjoy the view or for a private reception. Wawel Castle or Wisla river – all as within the reach of your hand. Breath-taking view. Świętujmy Niepowtarzalne miejsce razem na piątym piętrze hotelu Sheraton w Krakowie. Wyjątkowe chwile są wspa- Stylowo zaaranżowany Lounge Bar w centrum Krakowa. nialsze, gdy się je z kimś dzieli. Wymarzone miejsce na spo- Rozkoszuj się panormą tkanie z rodziną i przyjaciółmi, Zamek na Wawelu, czy zakole Wisły – wszystko jak na idealne na prywatne wyciągnięcie ręki. Panorama, która zapiera dech w piersiach. przyjęcie.

mon – fRi 12:00 – 1:00, sat – sun 10:00 – 01:00

pn – pt 12:00 – 01:00, so – nd 10:00 – 01:00 6 Krakow Post | August 2012 www.krakowpost.com People’s paradise under threat

Photos: David McGirr

Jamie Stokes to keep the spades and the barbecue and the from the use of an allotment regard this as of the 2005 law, and given parliament inevitable jars of homemade kompot out of an admirable idea, but it cannot be legally 18 months to replace it with something A decision handed down by Poland’s the weather. It would be hard to find a more reconciled with property rights enshrined better. Until that happens, allotment Constitutional Court in July threatens to perfect illustration of the Polish tradition in Poland’s more recent constitution. holders will suffer an agony of waiting. upset one of the country’s most cherished of kombinować – an untranslatable term Other objections to the provisions of In the worst case scenario, land returned traditions – the weekend migration to the that encompasses ‘making do with what’s the 2005 law include the fact that local to local authority control could be sold family allotment. available’ and ‘finding a way around the authorities are required to support PZD off to property developers. For Krakow, By ruling aspects of the 2005 laws official regulations.’ activities, that the PZD must agree before a city with mounting debts and hundreds regarding allotments unconstitutional, And officialdom is the other source of any allotment land reverts to its owner’s of hectares of land currently given over because they infringe on the rights of that nostalgic whiff. Every collection control, and that the PZD is exempt from to allotments, the prospect must be mouth landowners, the court has raised the of allotments has a ‘community house,’ normal property and business taxes. watering to some. prospect of some city gardens being sold painted in institutional green and tan The Constitutional Court has identified Representatives of the Constitutional to property developers. and pinned with laboriously complex what it sees as a problem, but cannot Court have made it clear that they wish It sometimes feels that nothing has been rules and regs subdivided into countless provide the answer. It has suspended much to preserve allotment gardening – their left unchanged by Poland’s torrid, 20-year paragraphs. Allotments feel like old target is the PZD. But with the current law romance with capitalism and modernity. fashioned, monolithic state institutions. suspended and no indication of what form But there are zones in every Polish town In fact, the Polish Union of Allotments a new law may take, allotment holders are and city where time has stood still, sectors (Polski Związek Działkowców, PZD), understandably worried. screened by hedges and rusty gates where the umbrella body responsible for the “If this land disappears, a way of life will you can easily believe it’s still 1954. These management of Poland’s 45,000 hectares also disappear. It will tear people away are Poland’s garden allotments (ogród of ogród działkowy, was created in the from land they have been connected to działkowy) – over one million plots of Communist era, in 1981. for years. This will be a tragedy for older land nationwide set aside for the health It is the PZD that finds itself in the people,” said Ewa Błachut, vice-president and wellbeing of the urban masses. spotlight following the Constitutional of the Małopolska branch of PZD. There are several aspects of Poland’s Court’s decision. The court’s primary There are 9,533 individual allotment ogród działkowy that irresistibly evoke objection to the law as it stood was that plots in Krakow, covering an area of 376 the days of the People’s Republic. There PZD had the monopolistic right to manage hectares. Of this area, about 25 hectares is the hodgepodge of styles and building the land under its control in perpetuity. are in prime development locations in the materials used to construct the shed-cum- The majority of this land belongs to local city centre. garden-retreat, without which no allotment authorities, some to the nation, and a Allotments are assigned to families, so is complete. Some of them are brick-built smaller fraction to private landowners. As an average family size of six individuals two-storey affairs, some are ramshackle the law stood, none of these groups would (over two living generations) means that odds and ends nailed together, others are ever have the right to dispose of or profit almost 60,000 Cracovians will be directly the severed remnants of buses, all are there from this land. Many of those who benefit Photos: David McGirr affected by changes in the law. August 2012

DINING REVIEWS EVENTS FASHION INTERVIEW CINEMA MORE 2 Krakow Post | August 2012 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com MAGIC ICE CREAM WITH

TUCK IN/ RASPBERRY SAUCE Dana Dramowicz

(Serves 1 life-loving glutton or 2 reasonable 2tbsp water appetites) 1 tsp lemon juice 4 ripe bananas 1.5 tsp potato flour (or any other thickening approx. 1 cup raspberries agent such as corn starch or flour) 3tbsp sugar INGREDIENTS

There are many words I could use to describe this Method: ice cream recipe - vegan, raw, sugar-free, simple, Slice the peeled bananas into 1-1.5cm pieces and healthy, delicious, or even dirt cheap - but more freeze for at least three hours. It’s very important your than anything else, this recipe is simply magic. Why? bananas be ripe - under-ripe bananas will result in a Because all you need is one ingredient - bananas. very bland ice cream with zero sweetness. When frozen and blended, bananas transform In the meantime, prepare the raspberries for the into a creamy consistency almost identical to soft sauce with a gentle rinse. If you prefer your sauce serve ice cream, and when the weather is hot, there’s smooth and without seeds, push the berries through nothing better than a guilt-free treat to take the edge a fine strain and into a small pot. Or go rustic and off. For a lactose-intolerant person like myself, this is simply throw the raspberries into the pot whole the perfect solution in Poland where the concept of and crush with a fork. Add the remainder of the lactose intolerance has yet to reach the confused ingredients and heat until it simmers. Let the sauce ladies at the apteka. cool, and you’re ready to go. While the bananas are perfect on their own, they Once the bananas have frozen, throw the slices into are also an ideal base for extra flavours and toppings, a food processor or blender and blitz until creamy. so don’t be afraid to experiment by adding other You might need to throw in a few tablespoons of fruit, cocoa, vanilla, nuts, or even peanut butter. This water to get the blender going. Spoon into a bowl, particular recipe is great in the summer when berries drizzle that sauce, and top with chocolate, nuts, or are at their peak. Choose your favourite and adjust whatever your heart desires. Don’t hold back - this is the sugar level to perfectly balance the tart and magic after all! sweet notes and get a delicious sauce you’ll reach for again and again.

DROP IN/ Kaze ul. Batorego 1a Stuart Wadsworth Sushi restaurants have been springing up around unaccompanied and without any decoration and Poland like proverbial mushrooms in the past couple when I asked for soy sauce I received a dribble of years, and Krakow is no exception. The newest in a saucer which needed refilling several times. addition to the scene is Kaze (‘Wind’ in Japanese), Undeterred, I went for a soup – Ramen Shio, a which styles itself as a traditional Japanese kind of boullion with pasta and slices of beef and restaurant serving authentic cuisine as opposed to a boiled egg which, though tasty, was somewhat just sushi. I blew through to find out if this was any steeply priced at 28zl. For a main I went for tempura different to the slew of sushi bars around town, or – deep fried vegetables and fish on a bed of rice – a case of the emperor’s new clothes. With a Polish/ which was interesting enough but somewhat bland Japanese husband and wife team running it, fresh and again over-priced at 30zl with only one piece from nine years in Japan, I had high hopes. of fish. I had the maki sushi – five small pieces for On entering the cellar bar (slightly out of town, 25zl, which, though passable, came with a miniscule tucked away on a side-street off ul. Karmelicka), one smear of wasabi and no pickled ginger. Finally, I had is immediately transported to the Orient; all red, Ebiyaki, small fried fluffy omelette balls with a prawn black and white drapes, stylish bean-bags, low black filling which were tasty but disappointingly came tables and lower lighting, the design is spot-on. You with a mayonnaise dip, seemingly straight out of can choose from a number of cosy niches which the jar. On ordering a dessert (three of which were are hidden from the view of other customers. The Polish), I was told that there were none available waitress issues you with a little buzzer with which to after the weekend. As they say, the proof of the call her when you are ready to order. Ours emitted pudding is in the eating. the sound of a barking dog: curiously Japanese. The Somewhat crestfallen then, I left feeling that this menu is all in Polish at the moment, but the helpful restaurant could do so much better – and with the waitress is able to translate if necessary. I ordered a stiff competition in this town it will need to. Portions Japanese beer (Sapporo) -12zl for a small bottle and are far too small and prices too high for what is not ś ledź po japońsku (15zl) for starters. Now this is a astoundingly authentic or original food. For now, it’s staple of most Polish milk bars of course, and I had a work in progress, which has promise but only that. never imagined it to be authentically Japanese, but But drop in at least to see those amazing drapes and it appears it is. while away some time sipping tea or rice wine and Slightly bemused by this lack of originality, I dreaming of the east. went for chicken karage (fried chicken) This arrived www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post | August 2012 3 KINO MANIA Go now! See it Solid If you must Avoid Roman Polański: A Film Memoir 2012 Polański lays himself bare Starring: Roman Polański, Andrew Braunsberg without self-indulgence. Directed by: Laurent Bouzereau

Giuseppe Sedia

Based on an extended conversation between interviewer sometimes comes to the fore, probably Roman Polański and his friend and producer Andrew due to an excess of empathy that bursts onto the Braunsberg during the filmmaker’s house arrest in screen along with extensive footage from Polański’s in 2009, Roman Polański A Film Memoir filmography. The controversial director recalls (2012) has provided much deserved visibility for memories from his childhood in France and Poland director Laurent Bouzereau. Probably one the hardest with a harrowing candour that will surprise only the working directors in the business of DVD featurettes, most ardent of moral crusaders. He recalls primordial Bouzereau was eventually given the chance to direct sensations from his childhood, such as his parched lips this documentary, filmed by Paweł Edelman, a regular after greedily drinking brine from a jar. Similarly, the contributor to Polański’s work since Oliver Twist scene in The Pianist (2002) in which Adrien Brody’s (2005). Genuine camaraderie was a prerequisite for character desperately wolfs down pickled gherkins Polański to open up in front of the camera, especially evokes the atrocities of war more effectively than any since he was facing possible extradition to the US at battle scene. In Bouzereau’s feature, life and art are the time. On a simple level, A Film Memoir is about entangled in a jungle of cross-references as Polański the friendship between Polański and Braunsberg, lays himself bare without self-indulgence. recounted in the here and now via a static camera. The

80 milionów charts the escalating (80 Million) 2011 conflict before and after Starring: Piotr Głowacki, Krzysztof Czeczot, the proclamation of Wojciech Solarz, Maciej Makowski Directed by: Waldemar Krzystek martial law

Giuseppe Sedia

It is clear that Waldemar Krzystek has developed a Krzystek’s film recounts the misadventures of three penchant for reconstructing the history of Poland union activists who extract a large sum of money, under the Soviet umbrella. His love of detail became the titular 80 million, from Solidarność’s accounts to evident in Little (2008), an elegant romance prevent it being frozen by the authorities. 80 Million set in the town Legnica, which once hosted the largest is a quirky but solid caper movie set in the few days Soviet garrison outside the USSR. The visually engaging before Jarurzelski’s coup d’état. Despite being a heist riot scenes in 80 Million are effective proof of the film with no robbery, Krzystek incorporates the tried- skill of Polish filmmakers in reconstructing dramatic and-tested rhythms and turning points of the genre. episodes pre-1989. The close encounter between The brilliant acting of Piotr Głowacki in the role of an Solidarność and militia forces on the Grunwaldzki unscrupulous and vaguely hysterical SB officer adds Bridge in Wrocław is re-enacted twice on screen. The to the flavour of the action. Based on a true story, 80 double confrontation over the Oder creates the frame Million was well received by Russian audiences at the of a story that charts the escalating conflict before Moscow Film Festival. and after the proclamation of martial law. In between,

to the concerns of the post-war generation. Together Do widzenia do jutra with ‘Bim-Bom’ troupe members Bogumił Kobiela (Goodbye, Untill Tomorrow) and Zbigniew Cybulski, Morgenstern penned the 1972 dialogue for a love affair between an angry young actor Jacek (Zbigniew Cybulski) and Marguerite Starring: Zbigniew Cybulski, Teresa Tuszyńska, (Teresa Tuszyńska), the daughter of a foreign diplomat. Roman Polański, Jacek Fedorowicz The character of Marguerite was based on Françoise Directed by: Janusz Morgenstern Buron, the one time muse of the Gdańsk-based Bim- Bom troupe. Morgenstern’s debut also made room Giuseppe Sedia for a cameo by Roman Polański, who attempts to hit Despite having served brilliantly as Andrzej Wajda’s on a foreign girl by displaying his fluent French on a assistant director in the 1950s, Janusz Morgenstern tennis court. Morgenstern never tried to imitate the seemed stuck in the role of sidekick. He had two greatest European auteurs. The ontological isolation screenplays rejected before he was allowed to experienced by Jacek and Marguerite in the sequence direct his own feature in 1960. Do widzenia do jutra set among the aisles of St. Mary’s Church, however, (Goodbye, Until Tomorrow) and Wajda’s Niewinni echoes Rossellini’s cinema. Morgenstern’s characters czarodzieje (Innocent Sorcerers) demonstrated that lack the vital and yuppi-esque cynicism displayed by Polish cinema was finally able to put aside the demons Wajda’s golden boys, but the emotional charge of their of war. At the turn of the decade, it shifted its focus melancholy has not faded over time. 4 Krakow Post | August 2012 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Exhibitions Film

Concerts

Theatre, Opera & Dance

Other Events

Emil Krcha Lady with an Ermine In the Reign of Knick-Knacks Movies for 6zł New in the National Museum’s Living Gallery cycle, Poland’s most valuable work of art, Leonardo da Vinci’s You know all those little things that clutter up Hurrah for Kino pod Baranami, which once again this exhibition presents the works of Krcha and his Lady With an Ermine, is now on display at Wawel your home? The souvenirs, photographs, novelties is offering the chance to see great movies at just contemporaries. Krcha is considered to have been one Castle. The painting has been on a tour of Europe, and general bits and pieces? They could in fact be 6zł a ticket. This popular promotion, which has for of the greatest painters of the period 1918 to 1939. He and must now stay in Krakow for at least the next museum pieces in the making, as this exhibition several years run under the heading of ‘Letnie Tanie was co-founder of the Association of Visual Artists. ten years, so there will be plenty of time to admire it. shows. It takes the ornaments that were once part of Kinobranie’ is an opportunity to see the films you Although born in Kałusz, he studied at the Academy The masterpiece is thought to be a portrait of Cecilia the everyday fabric of Krakow’s grand drawing rooms, love at a very affordable rate, and to try the ones of Fine Arts in Krakow, and produced works including Gallerani, the mistress of the Duke of in the 15th and examines our fascination with such pieces. It’ll you thought you’d like but didn’t want to risk a lot landscapes, genre scenes, and still life. He died here century. Tickets cost 10zl – but book in advance if you certainly make you think again about what you’ve got more cash on. Look out for the full programme at the the city in 1972. want to avoid queues as only 20 people at a time will standing on your own shelves. website – kinopodbaranami.pl. be allowed into the viewing room. Where: National Gallery, Al. 3 Maja 1 Where: Wawel Castle Where: Hipolit House, Pl. Mariacki 3 Where: Kino pod Baranami, Rynek Główny 27 When: Until Sept 2 When: Permanent When: Until Sept 9 When: Until August 30

Galicia Museum No Logo Space Gallery Psychoanalysing Film Photographs by the late Chris Schwarz and text by The good folk at Galeria Zderzak don’t skulk around at This is one of the oldest, and certainly one of the best- If you’ve ever wondered what exactly it was that Professor Jonathan Webber are combined to offer a the back of the crowd when it comes to presenting endowed, private galleries in Krakow, having been was going through the minds of some of the great powerful, moving, but ultimately hopeful insight into and promoting the works that they believe should be running in the city since the 1990s. The collection directors, or what it was that screenwriters really the Jewish past and present in Poland. This exhibition in the public eye. So it’s no surprise to see yet another is quite astonishing, presenting the works of Polish wanted to tell you, this monthly gathering at Kino seeks to preserve both the physical and cultural exhibition pushing sometimes unhailed creative greats such as Matejko, Michalowski, Wyspianski, and Mikro could be right up your street. It’s led by some of aspects of Judaism, which were almost destroyed talent to the forefront this summer. The No Logo more, alongside creations by young and not so young the experts from the Krakow School of Psychotherapy, during the darkest days of Jewish history in World exhibition will provide food for thought in the shape contemporary artists. More than just a gallery, this is and includes screenings and discussion. Tickets cost War II Krakow and beyond, while providing a thought- of 16 outstanding images… drop by before the end of a venue worth browsing and is a superb option for 10zł, and meetings are on the last Tuesday of every provoking view of Judaism today. August to find out just what’s so special about them. educational events, concerts, and meetings. month, at 8pm.

Where: Galicia Museum, ul. Dajwor 18 Where: Galeria Zderzak, ul. Floriańska 3 Where: Space Gallery, ul. Św. Marka 7 Where: Kino Mikro, ul. J. Lea 5 When: Permanent When: Until August 31 When: Permanent When: Monthly

Parallel Worlds Apolonia’s Erotic Garden Wyczół in Japan Summer Film Review Worlds of imagination running side by side, seemingly It might be unusual to stumble across allusions to Leon Wyczółkowski was one of the leading artists Last Tango in , Casablanca, Volver, Lisbon Story… disconnected but offering tantalising, hidden paths such a high-brow cultural phenomenon as opera of the Young Poland movement, whose career was Agrafka has a truly stunning line-up of movies for this between each other... this exhibition invites viewers to in a museum of modern art, but here it is… a solo initially very Eurocentric until a meeting with the year’s summer review, which stretches right through find the paths and explore the places that they find exhibition by Pola Dwurnik, who has drawn on founder of this museum, Feliks ‘Manggha’ Jasienski. until the end of August. Look out for changing themes along the way, asking questions such as ‘What do we Handel’s Alcina to produce these haunting images. This was to spark a lifelong interest in Japanese art, the each week, as the festival aims to present something see?’ ‘How do we see it?’ ‘How can we use differences There’s something very cheeky and Tracey Emin- results of which are the cornerstones of this exhibition. for everyone, covering drama, comedy, romance and in order to understand similarities?’ Featuring the esque going on here though – look closely and The artist collected many works of art from the east, gritty realism, and showing films from all over Europe. works of Zbigniew Bielawka, Lukasz Bieniek, Andrzej you’ll see that the animals in the pictures have some and was particularly taken by the Ukiyo-e woodcuts Tickets for each movie cost just 10zł each. Dudek-Durer, and many more. very human characteristics… yep, they represent of Hiroshige. Dwurnik’s ex-partners. Where: Ethnographic Museum, Plac Wolnica 1 Where: MOCAK, ul. Lipowa 4 Where: Manggha, ul. Konopnickiej 26 Where: Kino Agrafka, ul. Krowoderska 8 When: Until October 28 When: Until Sept 30 When: Until Sept 16 When: Until August 31

Behind the Wall Holes in the Sky Without Shame Open Screen Europe during the Cold War was a divided continent, Laura Pawela’s exhibition draws upon a surrealist This is where Polish cinema gets a bit steamy as the Young film-makers with an eye on the big time can between the Western democracies on one side, and movie that follows the adventures of an official who temperature in the auditorium rises beyond normal show their work free at this innovative and charming Soviet Communism on the other. Nowhere was this sparks fear and opposition by doing just the opposite summer heat thanks to this new exploration of cinema in Krakow’s Podgórze district. The Open Screen more striking than in , and of all the cities of of what he ought. As society shrieks and begins to taboo erotic fascination and attraction from director project will run every Friday, at 6pm, and members of Europe, the divide was literally and metaphorically scuttle itself, the anarchist hero thrives and his actions Filip Marczewski. Starring Mateusz Kościukiewicz, the public will be invited through local media to see widest in the capital city, . This exhibition produce a series of unexpected events. The idea of Agnieszka Grochowska, Anna Próchniak, Maciej the best of the city’s young talent. To take part, you features the work of Harald Hauswald, Ute Mahler, a fatal ‘hole in the sky’ is one that goes back through Marczewski, and Paweł Królikowski, it’s definitely should email the cinema at [email protected], and be Werner Mahler, and Maurice Weiss, who documented generations, and one that will also be familiar to many one for anyone with a taste for contemporary Polish ready to submit your work for a Friday screening on life behind the Berlin Wall, showing just how alien a children from the classic tale of Chicken Licken – but cinema, and won the main prize at the 37th Gdańsk the Monday beforehand. world East Germany was when seen from the West. this exhibition is certainly a new take on an old idea. Film Festival. Where: ICC, Rynek Główny 25 Where: Bunkier Sztuki, Plac Szczepański 3a Where: Kino pod Baranami, Rynek Główny 27 Where: Kino Kika, ul.Ignacego Krasickiego 18 When: Until Sept 2 When: Until August 26 When: see: kinopodbaranami.pl When: Fridays, 6pm CULTURAL PARTNERS www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post | August 2012 5

Kinky Beats Summer Chamber Concerts Cracovia Danza Jewish Culture They say the best things in life are free – in the case This is one of the most overlooked venues in Krakow – This is the Court Dance Festival’s 13th appearance in Every so often, a new place springs up in Krakow that of this evening at Alchemia in Bohemian Kazimierz and undeservedly so, as it does an awful lot to refresh Krakow, and this year the theme will be the elegance sets itself apart from others. This is what happened they are also exceedingly good fun and excellent the blood of the city’s cultural scene, year in, year of the 18th century. This is an opportunity to see how after 2002, when the UK’s Prince of Wales promised to to dance to. Kinky Beats features Disco Mule and out, for both performers and spectators. The cycle of the most powerful royal courts of Europe entertained help establish a place for the city’s Jewish community The Sensational Luciano, who will be keeping a chamber concerts is one such event, which has been themselves 300 years ago, and also to catch a glimpse to meet outside synagogue. True to his word he was little corner of Plac Nowy moving to the sounds of running now for several years and includes not just of the ballroom etiquette that held sway in India at the one of the driving forces behind the opening of Afro, disco and soul from Friday night until dawn on free musical events, but theatrical performances and time. Other music and lecture events will accompany Krakow’s Jewish Community Centre in 2008. Now the Saturday morning. The show starts at 10pm – and the comedy. Visit dworek.krakow.pl for the full programme the dance programme – see cracoviadanza.pl/en for centre offers a full weekly programme, and welcomes only thing you pay for is the beer. – and don’t miss the organ festival at the same venue. more information. all faiths.

Where: Alchemia, ul. Estery 5 Where: Dworek Białoprądnicki, ul. Papiernicza 2 Where: Various locations Where: JCC, ul. Miodowa 24 When: August 10 When: Until Aug 29 When: Until Aug 5 When: Permanent

Richard Bona Don Giovanni Kryspinów Assumption Day Award-winning Bona’s new project Mandekan Cubano With the opera house and philharmonic hall closed for Take a dip in the open water, lay back in the sunshine, Get a real flavour of contemporary Polish spiritual life, is music to dance to for sure, but draws heavily on a the summer in Krakow, classical music buffs and opera or get active with a range of games and sports facilities as the country shuts down for the day to celebrate the period of human history cast in the deepest shadow. lovers may be feeling a little starved of culture. Thank and attractions for all the family, at Kryspinów, on the Feast of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Mandekan was the language of the slaves taken from heavens then for the season of live opera and ballet outskirts of Krakow. The resort is a favourite of locals, Catholics believe that the mother of Christ was taken the west of the African continent to North America screenings from the best venues in the world, being but little-known to tourists, until now. They also hold bodily into heaven at the end of her life, and the date – people who are among the forefathers of today’s shown at Kijów.Centrum throughout the season. This special events each season, including the VW Beetle of this assumption is a public holiday throughout Cuban population. Carmeroonian Bona, bass player month it’s Don Giovanni, which comes transatlantic rally and various festivals of culture, art and food. The Poland. For tourists, there will still be a chance to see and singer, follows the thread of Cuban music, much from the New York Opera. The performance will start perfect spot to spend a lazy summer’s day – with a little of the city, but be aware that most attractions of which has developed from the traditions associated at 5pm. restaurants on site whether you want a bite to eat or and shops will be closed. However, it is the perfect with the slaves. Tickets 100zł/150zł. a full meal. time to see the beautiful churches that Krakow has to Where: Kijów.Centrum, Al. Krasińskiego 34 Where: Kijów.Centrum, Al. Krasińskiego 34 Where: Kryspinów, near Krakow offer. When: August 12, 8pm When: Aug 19 When: All summer Where: Churches in Krakow When: August 15 COMMUNITY Ex-pat Evening Language Exchange For Families Jewish Community Centre There’s a new bar in the centre of Krakow which is Whether you’re new to Krakow from abroad, or a long- The International Cultural Centre on the main square in Fancy learning Japanese? That’s just one of the doing a great job of giving a warm welcome to ex- term resident of the city, there’s probably a meeting Krakow, is offering special facilities in August for visitors courses on the JCC’s weekly programme, with classes pats from all over the world. where you can meet new people and speak in your with babies and children up to the age of three. Called for beginners every Tuesday at 5.30pm. There are It’s Cheers pub, at ul. Grodzka 31, barely a minute’s native tongue – or practise your Polish or any other ‘ICC on a dummy’, it is an opportunity for those social- Hebrew lessons on Mondays for beginners (5.30pm) walk from the main square. The bar prides itself on language you are learning. minded mums, dads and babysitters who really need and advanced students (7pm), and on Wednesdays being the only Scottish/Polish venue in Krakow, so A great place to meet Poles keen to learn English and a day in the gallery but worry about disturbing other you can join the Yiddish club at 6.30pm. It’s not those from the northern end of the British Isles are make friends are the weekly meetings at Sienna 5, held visitors, to take part in a guided exhibition tour. There just about languages, though, as the JCC also runs guaranteed to find something of home when they every Wednesday from 6pm. There are refreshments will be extra chairs, feeding facilities and a changing a choir, meeting Thursdays at 7pm, basketball step through the door – but anyone is welcome to and conversation, and all are welcome. There’s also station, on August 6 at 4pm. The tour lasts 40 minutes (Wednesdays, 9pm) and more, throughout the week. drop by. Share local knowledge, learn about the city, an English language exchange meeting on Monday and costs 8zł per adult. Bunkier Sztuki runs the ‘Little There’s a dedicated programme for senior citizens broaden your social circle and more, and take part in evenings, at Café Kładka on ul. Mostowa, just in front Club’ for children aged 5-12, on the first Saturday of which includes yoga (Mondays at 4pm), computing the weekly ex-pat evening, every Tuesday at 8.30pm. of the footbridge connecting Kazimierz and Podgórze. the month, bringing together Polish and foreign (Wednesdays at 6pm), and English for beginners It’s a relatively new event in Krakow, but news travels Meetings usually start at 7-8pm. artists in fun and educational sessions – see bunkier. (Thursdays at 3.30pm), amongst others. For younger quickly, and there are more people each week – Poles For French, try Kolory on Plac Nowy, on Thursdays at art.pl for more. Finally, Kino pod Baranami has special visitors, there’s a Sunday school for under 12s (10am) and foreigners alike. 7.30pm, while you can hone your Italian on Mondays, showings for parents with babies every Thursday at and for those aged 12 and up (1.30pm). And of course at Pod Jaszczurami on the main square, from 6.30pm. 11. Catch up with the latest movies as your little one members of the Jewish community in Krakow are Couchsurfers There’s a German language meeting at Migawka, at ul. snoozes in the pushchair beside you. welcome to bring a guest to the Shabbat dinner, on Krakowska 27, on Wednesdays at 7pm, and Spanish at Fridays after the service at the Remuh synagogue. If you haven’t yet encountered the phenomenon of In Business couchsurfing, now is the time to find out more. It’s Por Fiesta, ul. Warszawska 15, on Thursdays from 7pm. Italian Institute Developing Your Business Knowledge is a webinar an international community of friendly folk who love Sundays are great for polishing your Polish, at Café With a fine tradition of supporting the arts in Krakow aimed at helping increase productivity and to travel, and offers a chance to hook up with people Satori, ul Józefa 25, 6pm. and throughout Małopolska, the Italian Institute is contributions to business success, through better who might have a spare couch, bed, or even floor working with the organisers of the Pieniny sacred IWAK insight into a company’s goals and priorities. It is space in cities all over the world. music festival. There will be a concert in Pieniny at The International Women’s Association of Krakow is being offered as a means to counter the challenge In Krakow, the organisation is particularly strong, with the Church of Christ the Good Shepherd, on August currently enjoying a summer break, until September 1, highlighted by business experts, that although on online membership of more than 8,000. The group 12 at 4.30pm, thanks to the PianoClassic society and but it will still hold its coffee mornings. The regular one employees are asked to achieve more and contribute organises loads of events, including free walking tours with the support of the Institute. Then, on August 15 is on August 17, at 11am, and will be held at Coffee actively to their company’s business results, they often (from the Mariacki Church in the main square, daily, (6pm), the Institute is involved in the Festival of Organ Heaven on the main square. There’s also a meeting do not have a clear enough understanding of what at 11am and 3pm), movie nights, food and drink and Chamber Music in Rzeszów, at the Wniebowzięcia especially for newcomers, at which Marie-Claire, the priorities are. The webinar, led to by Michelle projects… and there’s usually at least one meeting parish church. This concert will feature Marco Di Newcomers Co-ordinator, will guide you through the Moore, will be held on August 28 at 2.30pm, part of each week – but there is so much going on that it’s Lenola, a talented young organist and graduate of the first steps of your stay in Krakow and fill you in about the Aspire programme of events in Krakow. Aspire best to bookmark the website at couchsurfing.org to Pontifical Academy of Music in . Head to Jarosław IWAK. This meeting will be at Wedel, also on the main is the Association of IT & Business Process Services find the August get-togethers that suit you. on August 20 at 8pm, to catch Micrologus and singer square, on August 3 at 11am. Companies in Poland, bringing together major players Quite brilliantly, there’s an excellent service for those Lucilla Galeazzi who will lead an extraordinary journey Come September, the IWAK machine starts rolling in the region to promote and develop opportunities. new in town with temporary accommodation through 12th-century Italian drama. For the Italian again proper, with events such as sport and fitness, You can sign up for the webinar, and find out more problems. Join the Couchsurfers group in Krakow, Institute’s full programme, visit iiccracovia.esteri.it. book clubs, cooking, baby play groups and charity about Aspire, at aspire.org.pl. Please note – an internet and they’ll do their very best to help put you in touch events. See iwak.pl, or email [email protected] connection and computer with speakers are required with someone who can offer a bed while you sort for more information. for those wishing to take part in the webinar. things out. 6 Krakow Post | August 2012 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com

Kościuszko was a born soldier, with a natural courage and military intelligence underpinned by an unshakeable sense of justice. In Poland, there is barely a town that does not have a street, square or monument that bears his name; he is a national hero, as much for his efforts in the emancipation of the serfs, as for his famed uprising in the defence of Poland, which began in March 1794, and his mili- tary successes against Russian forces superior in number, training and equipment on the battlefields of Włodzimierz and Dubienka (both in 1792), and Racławice (1794). But he’s just as much of a hero elsewhere; Austra- lia named a mountain after him, France remembers him as ‘the hero of the north,’ after he was described thus by Napoleon, the English poet Byron wrote of him ‘that sound that crashes in the tyrant’s ear – Kościuszko!’ and he even has a street named after him in Rio de Janiero. Yet nowhere outside Poland is Kościuszko revered as much as he is the United States of America.

When Tadeusz Kościuszko arrived in America in August 1776, it was a British colony. By the time he left, in 1784, it was a fledgling free nation. He had played his part in that transformation. After two months of voluntary service with the Continental Army, he was commissioned as a Colonel of Engineers, and was soon promoted to Head Engineer, from his base in Pennsylvania. It was there that he arranged a meeting with Thomas Jefferson, the author of the Declaration of Independence, and forged a friendship that would last many years. His military training in Poland was put to good use, as he first oversaw the building of Fort Billingsport in Philadelphia, then fortified the Delaware River to prevent the British from crossing. He was responsible for directing the construction of forts along the border with Canada too. But his training and expertise were not always welcomed by his colleagues. For example, when Kościuszko ordered artillery to be sited on Sugar Loaf Mountain above Fort Ticonderoga, his wishes were countermanded by the commander of the fort, www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post | August 2012 7

Brigadier General Arthur St Clair. It was Once again, Kościuszko’s work had proved the commander’s mistake – for the British, decisive. As it had in the North, his expertise Kosciuszko Timeline when they attacked, did install artillery, and gave Greene’s army a real edge against the took the fort with almost no resistance. As a British and enabled them to conquer South February 12, 1746: Born at Mereczowszczyzna. Now , result, the Continental Army was forced to Carolina once again. Greene called upon retreat – with Kościuszko bringing up the Kościuszko to lay siege to the Star Fort. Lasting then part of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth rear and destroying bridges, woodland and from May 22 to June 18, it was the longest 1765: Began his military career at the School of Knights in Warsaw water sources to hinder the British pursuit. siege of the war. It was also where Kościuszko 1776: Left Poland for America His actions earned the Continental Army the received what was reportedly his only injury 1777: Masterminded the defence of Saratoga, turning the tide time they needed to cross the Hudson River in America – being rather ignobly bayoneted to safety. in his backside when the fort’s defenders of the American War of Independence against the British Kościuszko’s commanders knew that their launched a surprise attack. April 1783: Celebrated the success of the War of Independence Head Engineer had been right, and decided That is not to say that Kościuszko escaped October 1783: Granted American citizenship to follow his advice in the future. Their danger throughout his American campaigns. 1784: decision tipped the balance of the war against In fact, he was nearly killed on November 14, Return to Poland the British – for Kościuszko fortified high 1782 when he and his men were surrounded at 1794: Kościuszko Uprising begins in Krakow ground overlooking the Hudson at Saratoga James Island and forced to flee; but Kościuszko 1794: Victory against Russia at Racławice to such an extent that the British were unable kept his head and led the retreat to safety. 1796: Return to the United States to break through. When the British finally Just a month later he joined the first troops admitted defeat in that particular part of the to march into Charleston after the British 1797: Settled in France, which had awarded him honorary citizenship campaign, and surrendered on October 16 evacuation. It is said that he put his technical October 15, 1817: Died, Solothurn, Switzerland, oftyphoid fever 1777, the Continental Army knew that they skills to celebratory use in April 1783, when had scored a major tactical victory; and that it he organised a fireworks display to mark the was Kościuszko they had to thank for it. Even signing of the Treaty of Paris, which ended the George Washington noted his successes, and war and gave America independence. The Kosciuszko Foundation charged him with fortifying the stronghold at Kościuszko’s support for the American West Point. Kościuszko lived there until, seeing struggle earned him great respect. He was In 1925, the United States further honoured the Polish hero by establishing the an opportunity to distinguish himself still promoted to Brigadier General on October Kościuszko Foundation. The aims of the organisation were and remain to build and further, he requested and obtained a transfer 13 1783, and given American citizenship, strengthen ties between the United States and Poland, and to promote the exchange to aid the struggle in the South, in 1780. land, and membership of the Society of the of culture, education and understanding between these two nations. Immediately, he scored a major victory Cincinnati and the American Philosophical Nowadays, the headquarters of the Foundation is in New York, and it has major for the Southern Army. The British, under Society. centres in Chicago, Denver, Houston, Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, Springfield, Buffalo, Cornwallis, led a determined attack on Major When he finally left America for Poland, and Ohio. As a not for profit organisation is relies upon – and is greatly supported General Nathanial Greene’s forces, which Kościuszko made a will leaving all his property by – businesses and private donors. The Foundation’s modern-day success would have been impossible without the resulted in a frantic winter withdrawal known in America to be used to buy freedom and work of Polish emigree Szczepan Mierzwa, who arrived in America, aged 17 and as the Race to the Dan. Kościuszko’s expertise education for black slaves. He had worked with no English language skills, in 1910. He took jobs in workshops and kitchens, and planning helped Greene’s army cross the closely with his black orderly, Agrippa Hull, before winning a scholarship, gaining a master’s degree at Harvard and, earning a treacherous terrain and finally ford the River on arrival in America, and had been horrified professorship at Drake University. Dan ahead of Cornwallis – while the defences by the treatment of black people in the South. From there on, he was in a position to begin fundraising, with the aim of providing and fortifications he had designed earned As a sad postscript to the tale, it should be scholarships to promote Polish-American cultural exchange. His Polish-American them vital hours to make good their escape. noted that the property was never used for Scholarship Committee grew slowly – and Mierzwa saw his dream rebuffed on count- The British lacked the engineering skills to its intended cause. Kościuszko’s descendants less occasions. Yet he persevered, and now the Kościuszko Foundation is a major force cross the River Dan – in full flow and fury inherited it by order of the Supreme Court, in in maintaining cultural ties between the United States and Poland. To find out more, – and retreated to North Carolina. Greene 1852. visit thekf.org. ordered his men to regroup near Halifax, at Tadeusz: Hero of Nations is available for another of Kościuszko’s forts. Kindle and in print, from September 2012.

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Tel: (+48) 12 631 12 89 Fax : (+48) 12 423 47 02 E-mail : [email protected] www.valians-international.com 8 Krakow Post | August 2012 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Community Interview: and other news The Krakow Post provides a service to the international A Bostonian community living in Krakow. If you would like news of your past and future events to be covered by the Post, in Krakow please let us know. Whether you are a local branch of a society such as TEDx, Toastmasters or Couchsurfing, a Chamber of Commerce, a group of medical students, a Start Up support group, a Michael McDonald is Managing Director, University forum, or a group connected to a Consulate or Foreign Cultural Centre, Brown Brothers Harriman (Poland) Sp. z o.o. we want to hear from you. You can always send us press releases, but with planning we could give you a The US financial giant is set to open a major regular slot in the paper. Write to: [email protected] business centre in Krakow. We spoke to Mr McDonald about this new enteprise and his new home city.

Krakow Post: What does Brown Brothers more experienced candidates we are looking Harriman & Co. do? What role will the new Krakow for experience in financial services and specific

Chris Riley Business Centre play in BBH’s global operation? technology areas, with strong leadership and Michael McDonald: Brown Brothers Harriman client service skills. (BBH) is a privately-held global financial institution, It is important to remember that we are building where 41 partners own and manage the firm. a true business centre not simply a back office The new Krakow business centre will be an processing centre and are therefore looking integral part of BBH’s global operation to support for individuals seeking longer-term career our largest business line, Investor Services. This opportunities with BBH. comprises global custody, fund accounting, fund We are offering a global, collaborative administration and other services related to asset environment where employees are given full servicing. We assist our clients (primarily asset training and career development opportunities. managers and financial institutions) in processing We are looking forward to welcoming employees cross-border securities trades, keeping financial who are looking to be part of creating our future. If assets safe and servicing the associated portfolios. this sounds like you then please get in touch! In addition to the operational functions we work KP: Where are you from? strategically with our clients to assist them with MM: I am from Boston, but have lived outside the their global business objectives. United States now for five years. Our 5,000 colleagues operate from 17 cities KP: How long have you worked for BBH, and throughout North America, Europe and Asia, and what attracted you to the company? we are responsible for in excess of 3 trillion USD MM: I have worked for BBH for close to 20 in client assets. We are known for our high quality years. Prior to taking on this role in Poland I was client service and working strategically with clients responsible for our office in Dublin, Ireland. I also to help them meet their business objectives. spent several years in BBH’s Boston and New York Our new Krakow office will work in conjunction offices as a senior relationship manager, and then with our other European offices, and will represent headed up the Global Custody and Cash Division a significant expansion of our technology, in Boston. operations, and client service resources in the What attracted me, and continues to attract me European time-zone. We believe that bringing to BBH, is the quality of the people I work with, these functions together in Krakow will provide the advantages of our partnership structure which a platform for further innovation and service creates a great sense of collaboration globally, and development. the opportunities presented by such a global and KP: Why did BBH choose Krakow over other well respected organisation. locations in Poland? KP: What has been the most satisfying moment MM: We felt that Krakow and the surrounding of your career to date? region have demonstrated a strong track record MM: Definitely the opportunity to open and of growth over recent years, offers a supportive manage our business centre in Krakow – BBH’s first business infrastructure, and allows us access to a European office that brings together client service, well-educated and high-potential talent pool. We systems and operations. believe that Krakow also offers us attractive growth KP: What are you looking forward to about opportunities. working in Krakow? KP: Where will the Business Centre be located? MM: The challenge of building a new office from MM: Our offices are currently located in Buma scratch, and being able to immerse myself at the Square Business Park, with capacity for over 200 same time in a new culture and exploring this people. We are finalising contracts now for a larger beautiful country. space, close to the city centre, which we plan on KP: What is your favourite thing to do in moving into in 2013. Krakow? KP: What advice would you give to job seekers MM: At the moment my favourite thing to do interested in joining BBH? is just discovering this city and culture with my MM: We are looking for a mix of high-potential family as we start to settle in and learn about our graduates and more experienced candidates. For new home! www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post | August 2012 9

3-5.08 OFF Festival Dolina Trzech Stawow, Katowice tagged: indie, rock, alternative, electronic

Kicking off the year’s busiest month for festivals and outdoor concerts is OFF, a music festival which has grown from a scrappy indie get-together to an internationally renowned magnet for alternative music aficionados. One thing OFF has always been known for is convincing cult bands to perform and this year we can expect concerts from such heavyweights as: Iggy & The Stooges, Thurston Moore and Kim Gordon of Sonic Youth, Swans, DOOM, Henry Rollins, and Stephen Malkmus of Pavement. The festival has clearly evolved out of its strictly indie rock roots, and now hosts concerts by a wide array of talent including electronic, jazz, experimental, and hip-hop from artists like: Kurt Vile, Andy Stott, Metronomy, Charles Bradley and His Extraordinaires, Shangaan Electro, High Places, Kuedo, Fennesz, and Battles. Three separately ticketed opening concerts will take place on Thursday (02.08) across Katowice including performances by Matthew Herbert, Nils Frahm, and Chew Lips. Three-day passes to the festival grounds are 200 PLN, or 240 PLN with a spot on the campground. Single day passes go for 120 PLN. Full details at off-fesiival.pl

Soundtropolis 11.08 Dolina Trzech Stawów, Katowice tagged: techno, minimal, progressive, hard techno

Every year, Soundtropolis harks back to the 90s hey- day of Euro dance music, and the time when techno massively influenced the sounds of artists like Westbam, before it all spun out of control and we were left scratching our heads wondering what happened. Yes, Soundtropolis will see plenty of progressive and hard techno acts. But the whole affair is anchored in the solid sounds of Westbam himself, as well as artists like Speedy J, a techno producer who has released on , and Richie Hawtin & John Acquaviva’s Plus 8 Recordings. Sure, this event’s a cheese-fest on the surface, but there are some real gems to be found on the inside.

11-12.08 Coke Live Festival Aviation Museum airfield, Krakow tagged: rock, pop, hip-hop

Krakow’s largest summertime festival is not much to brag about (considering the abundance of August activity in and around neighbouring Katowice), but Coke Live does provide the masses with some much-needed headliners. This year’s line-up is frankly, stellar - well, apart from the inclusion of Placebo (does anyone apart from Poland seriously still care about Placebo? Do they have some sort of annual quota of Poland concerts that they must fulfill?). Now, here are some real headliners to admire: The Roots, The Killers, Snoop Dogg. Snoop Dogg! In Krakow! What an absurd and magical concept to wrap one’s head around. Other exciting prospects: Mystery Jets, Crystal Fighters, and the inimitable Canadian house music group Azari & III. Of course Polish support is solid as well with concerts from the likes of Keira is You, Muchy, and Iza Lach. Not mentioning the dreaded P-word, this Coke Live looks like one of the best editions to date. Full passes 200 PLN, with single day tickets at 125 PLN. Details at livefestival.pl

Harald Grosskopf

Let It Roll 10-11.08 OCT 3_DEC 2 2012 Tarnowskie Góry WWW.KJJ-FESTIWAL.PL tagged: drum n bass

Drum & bass has been noticeably absent from the summer festival line-ups this year (admittedly, it is a little unfashionable at the moment), so the people of Let It Roll simply took it upon themselves to bring the dnb superstars of the world to their own outdoor fiesta in nearby Tarnowskie Góry. On the main stage: London Elektricity, Danny Byrd, Ed Rush & Optical, Aphrodite, Matrix & Futurebound, and many more. Incidentally, Tarnowskie Góry will also host another fun weekender this year - Plener Festival, which will combine local musical talent with sports competitions (16-19.08).

23-26.08 Tauron Nowa Muzyka Dolina Trzech Stawów, Katowice tagged: electronic, pop, techno, bass

While Off Festival takes the cake as best festival of indie-guitar-led music, Tauron Nowa Muzyka reigns supreme in the category of indie- summer festival. This year’s line-up is a beautifully crafted sight to behold. Virtually every electronic artist worth listening to in 2012 can be experienced at Tauron, from the instrumental techno of Brandt Brauer Frick Ensemble to the whacked-out squidgy bass of up-and-coming duo TNGHT (a collaboration between Lunice and ). Of course there are many old reliables on the menu as well, including Hot Chip, Jimmy Edgar, Clark, The Black Dog, Madlib, Mouse on Mars, and a DJ set from Four Tet & Caribou. But we don’t plan on missing much, particularly not the performances of Sepalcure, Beach House, Scuba, Rustie, John Talabot, The Gaslamp Killer, Eskmo, Lucy, Morphosis, or DJ Rashad & DJ Spinn. Full details of independent opening and closing concerts have yet to be announced, but we can expect appearances by King Krule and Chilly Gonzales. Full 2-day passes will set you back 150-170 PLN, with individual daily tickets going for 90-110 złoty. Full details at festiwalnowamuzyka.pl Coco Rosie 10 Krakow Post | August 2012 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com

in association with: Galeria Kazimierz

Soaring temperatures this summer have provided the perfect excuse to show off a bit of Leach & Lang are excited to offer for sale this unique property – a luxury apartment flesh, and the results have been truly revealing. combined with home office, meaning you never have to leave your own, personal One thing that has been exposed is that tattoos view of Wawel castle. The property is located on ul. Zamkowa and boasts a spectacular, are a big trend, though they are certainly nothing uninterrupted panorama of Wawel hill and the Vistula. The apartment and office are new, having first been introduced to Western situated in an intimate, modern-designed apartment building and are located on two different levels with an overall area of 235 square metres. An airy 80 square metre office is culture by sailors returning from Polynesia in the to be found on the first floor with the well-appointed, 155 square metre, three-bedroom 19th century, and then making their way into apartment on the floor above. various subcultures. Price: 3,537,000 PLN. More recently, celebrities and models have taken to inking their bodies, and so the tattoo has become more widely accepted, even to the point that Mattel produced a tattooed Barbie doll in 2011. Historically, in many cultures, tattoos are considered a rite of passage, which got me thinking that this is often the case in the Western world too. A chance to purchase your own Krakow pied-à-terre on the site of the historic former Lubicz Brewery. I got my first tattoo in an obscure tattoo parlour Leach & Lang are able to offer exclusively for sale a variety of apartments in this prestigious, city centre, on ul. Floriańska in the early 1990s, just after mixed-use development just 800m from the Rynek. An ideal bolt hole for weekend breaks in Krakow my A-levels. Perhaps I was saying goodbye to would be this 45 square metre apartment situated on the 2nd floor. It comprises a living room with childhood and entering adulthood – a significant open-plan kitchen, a generously sized bedroom, bathroom, hall and a covered balcony. Large West-facing passage indeed. windows ensure the apartment is very light. Delivery: September 2013. Price (including VAT): 428,000 PLN. When I think about friends who have had their bodies tattooed, it was very often to mark lost or newly found love, or simply to celebrate something special. I guess it all makes sense when you consider that, in eastern traditions, tattoos are considered to be healing (when applied to particular parts of the body). They are also believed to bring luck or protect against evil, so it seems there is a therapeutic edge to the Enjoy parklife? Twardowski Residence is just the place for you. Leach & Lang are exclusively able to offer whole business. for sale a selection of studio, 1-bed, 2-bed and 3-bed apartments in this upscale, boutique development Tattoos are more popular than ever before, of only 24 units on ul. Pietrusińskiego in Dębniki, a stone’s throw from Zakrzówek and Park Skały but even after so many years as part of Western Twardowskiego. Construction has only just begun and is due to complete in Q1 2014, so it is still possible culture, they are still considered edgy and bold. to take your pick of the bunch, such as this 53 square metre, one–bedroom apartment on the second And whether your tattoo embodies a personal floor. Included in the price are VAT, an underground parking space and an accommodating 19 square statement in a ‘me, me, me’ fashion culture, or a metre balcony with much sought-after Southern exposure. Price (including VAT): 520,000 PLN. good luck talisman, it’s still good to make your mark. Martyna Wilde Nakarm wszystkie zmysły Feed all your senses

• 130 sklepów • 1600 miejsc parkingowych • restauracje • kawiarnie • kino, fitness

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GK wizerunek prasa post 260x365.indd 1 7/27/12 3:00 PM www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post | August 2012 7 In business… Brown Brothers Harriman recruiting for Krakow business centre US investment and securities giant Brown long process of analysis. This region has Brothers Harriman & Co. (BBH) is set to experienced excellent growth over recent open a new business centre in Krakow, and years. It has very good infrastructure and employ 200–300 people over the next two well-educated college graduates,” said years. McDonald. BBH’s Krakow business centre will Unlike other BBH business centres in be the fifth of its kind in Europe, and the Europe, the Krakow operation will provide company expects to hire 500 local staff in its clients with technical support as well the long term. as investment and asset management “We do not intend to build a mere annex services. here in Krakow, but a genuine business Up to half of new recruits are expected centre linked to our other centres around to be recent graduates, with qualifications the world,” said Michael McDonald, in economics and information technology Managing Director of BHH Poland. being the most in demand. Krakow was chosen as the location for BBH is the oldest and largest private the new venture from among three cities banking institution in the United States. in Ireland and three in Poland – the other It currently employs 5,000 people in 16 Polish candidates being Warsaw and other locations throughout North America, Wrocław. Europe and Asia, and manages assets “Choosing Krakow was the result of a worth some 3 trillion USD. Krakow startup has wasteful business cards in its sights Krakow startup Nessfile is aiming to Nessfile is touting the potential reduction revolutionise the way we use business in environmental impact as a clear CSR cards, and give companies a simple way to plus. improve their CSR strategies. Even more radical is Nessfile’s electronic The company is developing a cloud- business card model. This service will allow based application that will allow users to users to exchange contact information by carry printed business cards featuring a QR simply holding their smartphones close code, or to have purely electronic business together – thanks to the increasingly cards on their smartphones, tablets or other popular Near Field Communication (NFC) wireless devices. technology incorporated into Samsung and Instead of handing out printed cards to Apple devices. every potential contact, users can offer “We’ve been in the 21st century for the QR code for scanning to anyone with more than a decade now, so it’s high a suitable device. Scanning the code can time we turned to modern technology, transfer a lot more information than a instead of that which has its roots in the printed card and, because it’s cloud-based, 17th century,” said Nessfile founder, updating your details means they are also Łukasz Holeczek. His ambition is to make updated on every online device that has Nessfile the largest cloud-based business scanned the code. and private contact hub in the world, partly Nessfile estimate that using their QR- by opening the Nessfile API to third party bearing business card system could developers. save the average company 66 per cent For now, Nessfile is looking for seed of the costs associated with printing investors. More information is available at and updating traditional business cards. nessfile.com. Go green for EU funding Małopolska MEP Bogusław Sonik has objectives means presenting a co-ordinated called for the city and local businesses to programme for the city as a whole. think green if they want to make the most “We must finally confront the problem of the next tranche of European Union of air quality, which is the worst in Poland structural and cohesion funds. in our area. We have to think about the With the current, 2007–13, EU Regional use of renewable energy sources and the Policy funding round coming to an end, Mr closing down of coal-powered power Sonik emphasises that the objectives for the plants. We should also reduce the impact 2014–20 round will include: innovation, of car exhausts – the only cure is a good supporting entrepreneurship and the public transport system,” said Mr Sonik, transition to a low carbon economy. who sits on the European Parliament’s The MEP believes that positioning Committee on the Environment, Public Krakow to take full advantage of these Health and Food Safety. 8 Krakow Post | August 2012 www.krakowpost.com

ASTRO SELTZER

LEO (Jul 23 - Aug 22) If possible, you’re flirtier than ever. Convinced of your desirability, you’ll make no bones about wanting to be worshipped. Thriving on being loved and wanted, you’re nonetheless exceedingly generous and helpful when you feel romantically secure. This month, you could find yourself drawn to someone who is a fairly hard nut to crack.

VIRGO (Aug 23 - Sep 22) SAGITTARIUS (Nov 22 - Dec 20) PISCES (FEB 19 - MAR 19) GEMINI (May 21 - Jun 20) You know what needs to be done. Exceedingly expressive and This is the perfect time to put You’ve got your house in order Sadly, you know that you’ll have irrepressible, you’re likely to make the finishing touches to a current and you’ve tidied up your brain, to do it all on your lonesome. quite an impression this month, project or to revive an old one. for once. Now all you have to do Don’t be bitter about having all wherever you go and whoever Your organisational skills are on top is figure out what you want and the responsibility, with seemingly you meet. Sometimes a bit over- form, permitting you to get things with whom you want to do it – no limited payback. Your ship is about to come in! the-top intellectually, you’re likely to espouse any done in a flash. Avoid anyone who tries to draw mean task. Single Geminis won’t Meanwhile, you can fantasise about what you’ll do ideology or movement that rattles people and you into confusing situations: you’re an empathetic remain so for much longer. A romantic, alluring when you finally have the time and resources to fulfil makes them question preconceived values. Keep listener, but you must be allowed to concentrate aura is currently surrounding you, adding to your your dreams. the revolution rolling. 100 per cent on your own tasks. natural attractiveness.

LIBRA (Sep 23-Oct 22) CAPRICORN (DEC 21 - JAN 19) ARIES (Mar 20 - Apr 19) CANCER (Jun 21 - Jul 22) Whether its a school reunion or a You have a plan! The good news If you’re in the market for romance, You have what you want, but chance encounter with a former is that, once you know what this month should provide you you’ve recently been worried colleague, you’ll be spending direction you want your life to with oodles of possibilities. A about losing it. Don’t fret! No time with people from your past. take, nothing short of an act of former flame could pop onto the one is out to rob, trick or deceive They may request your assistance god can push you off track. You’re scene, leaving you more intrigued you. Lighten up a bit this month with a sticky issue or two. People creeping closer to the light at the end of the tunnel. than perhaps you’d like, or deserve, to be. You’ve and enjoy the considerable fruits consider you a sort of glamorous therapist, who Consequently, you’ll be finding that petty criticism been a good little citizen lately, but that’s slated to of your labour. Let go of past disappointments prefers to remain judgement free. no longer affects you. change. and try to take people at face value.

SCORPIO (Oct 23-Nov 21) AQUARIUS (JAN 20 - FEB 18) TAURUS (Apr 20 - May 20) Whatever authority you wield This month, some extraordinary This month, that elusive state will remain safely in your hands. experiences will reconfigure your called financial security comes an Written by Kerwin McLeister This will be a month of watching, grey matter and shake up your inch or two closer. Then, with a The Krakow Post’s astrology waiting and planning. Your next world view. And, it’s time that your penny more than expected in the column is for entertainment purposes only, and the Post is move, professionally speaking, brain had a bit of a shake-up: you’ve bank, you’ll be able to indulge one not responsible for any conse- promises to be in a more creative been growing bored with yourself of your latest interests. An offbeat, but challenging quences incurred as a result of direction. Lately, you’ve been doing a lot of fiddly, recently. You’ll discover that thinking differently will hobby has you in its thrall. With your usual dexterity this column. detailed work that has left little room for you to help you react to things in a gentler, less panicky and efficiency, you’re bound to master it in record exploit your incredible imagination. fashion. time. Modern University with rich Tales from the chalkface tradition Feathering your nest Chris Riley

We all like extra cash, and one way to parties, so why do the owls get in a flap if Any man sharing with me will definitely stretch the budget is to use all the rooms I don’t creep around the kitchen and have feel hen-pecked if I don’t get to rule the in your flat, if you’ve any spare – a the cheek to open and close cupboards or culinary roost. Oddly enough, none of the position I’m lucky enough to enjoy. So use the microwave early in the morning? men I’ve ever shared with have ruffled is it worth halving the rent or is sharing Can I help it if it has a loud ping? my feathers over this. They’re happy to your living space a sure way of making My personal flashpoint is the kitchen. be second in the pecking order. Full time and part time the feathers fly? Most other places I can give more than The chicks are different. The most Bachelor ’s and Master ’s studies On one hand, it’s hard to put a price on take, but mess up the kitchen or try to harmonious female flat share I ever Postgraduate studies, the joy of your own space. Knowing you impose your standards on me and it’s only experienced was with someone who including MBA Doctoral studies will never find anyone else’s washing up a matter of time before the feathers fly. turned out to be anorexic, which meant in the sink or a bathroom that is always the kitchen was a no-go area for her Majors dElivErEd in English: available is worth a lot. On the other anyway. hand, it’s nice to have money at the end In contrast, flat-mates have flown BSc, Msc International Business BSc Corporate Finance and Accounting of the month. into rages at the sight of my breakfast BSc Applied Informatics Being an eternal optimist, I’m always breadcrumbs left on the bread board, Doctoral Studies in Economics convinced that sharing a nest, whether and there was another whose eyes I was Finance and Management with a lover or a flat-mate, will be easier tempted to peck out because the idea than it actually is. I walk into sharing of putting kitchen tools back where she CUE comprises four faculties offering 17 majors : situations assuming that everyone is found them was outlandish. . Faculty of Economics and International Rela- as fair as I am, and I am, of course, an Having recently ruffled the feathers of tions extremely fair-minded old bird and a that flat-mate who decided to fly the coop, . Faculty of Finance total delight to live with. I’ve nearly given up on harmoniously . Faculty of Commodity Science . Faculty of Management As a morning lark, I find it hard to sharing my nest. Being a wily old bird, imagine why everyone else isn’t whistling I’ve decided that the only people now www.uek.krakow.pl at daybreak, but even if my flatmate is a allowed to rest their wings with me are night owl, there’s no problem because it house guests – they’re a different breed. means no morning race for the bathroom. In case my current house guest reads this, Since I’m a deep sleeper, I can sleep I must say she’s simply perfect. I’m sure through anything, including impromptu I’ll never rattle her cage. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post | August 2012 9

CRYPTIC CROSSWORD Set by KC ACROSS DOWN 2 See 1d 1, 2ac London spectacle employs magic 1 2 3 4 5 I bail out of being in another place (5) haphazardly (7,5) 7 Tripe is off – almost all (5) 2 Short American soldier (1,1) 5 6 7 8 10 Arriving after the second (6) 3 Stitch, therefore, that’s what was heard 9 12 Asks a lot of tough questions about (2) cookers? (6) 4 It’s an event when girl roams around in 10 11 12 13 Topless islands? That’s confusing – and front of bank (7) 13 cold! (5) 6 Throw broken nib here? (3) 15 I am condensing an instant message 8 Confirm the tree is in there (3) 14 15 16 17 19 (2,2) 9 PL 1d, 2ac (11) 11 PL 12d (10) 20 21 17 Half a pint? There’s no point being at home! (2) 12 It’s a big event when my cat sings 22 20 Not much company? (2) badly (10) 21 Island domain on the internet! (1,1) 14 PL 4d (10) 23 24 22 Am in a disoriented unconscious state 16 Bottoms covered on a cloudy night? (5) (8) 23 Eternally alone, confused, but giving 17 PL 1d, 2ac (8) 25 26 credit (4) 19 Event comprises lovely, frantic dance 24 Laze about? The opposite! (4) (10) 25 Flower awoke (4) 28 Greek character pisses off two cardi- 27 28 29 30 26 Some pentathletes ran? Yes, primarily nals, misses the point and collapses quick and agile (4) (3)

27 Fight endlessly in resort (3) 30 Three thousand racists (1,1,1) 31 29 Ask about music (3) 31 PL 19d (9)

CONFUSED? SOLUTIONS

A cryptic crossword is a series of puzzles which you must solve in order to complete the grid. For

example, the clue for 23 across is ‘eternally alone, confused, but giving credit.’ Make the word ‘alone’ KKK 30 Psi 28 19 Igrzyska 17 Moonless

eternal – i.e. endless – by removing the last letter to leave you with ‘alon’; then ‘confuse’ these letters to 16 Żeglarstwo 14 Gymnastics 12 Gimnastyka 11 Olimpijskie 9 Fir 8 Bin 6 Sailing 4 So 3 GI 2 Olympic 1

arrive at ‘loan’ – credit. DOWN

SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS Siatkówka 31 Ska 29 Spa 27 Spry 26 Rose 25

Some answers (marked PL) are in Polish. They refer to the English answers as indicated and share a Zeal 24 Loan 23 Anima 22 GG 21 Co 20 In 17 IM 15 Icily 13 Grills 12 Coming 10 Offal 7 Alibi 5 Games 2 theme – but are otherwise unclued. On your marks… go! ACROSS

WRITTEN IN STONE TOPICAL WORDS / SŁOWA NA TOPIE along Piłsudski Street (Ulica Marszałka Józefa With the Accent School of Polish www.polishforforeigners.com Piłsudskiego), and passed Czesław Dźwigaj’s monument to Piłsudski’s fighting force the Polish olimpijski adj Legions, which stands at the intersection of Wenecja, Garncarska and Piłsudskiego. olympic What, he owned the city? He pretty much Ogień olimpijski zapłonął w Londynie. owned the whole of Poland. Piłsudski was Chief of State from independence The Olympic flame was lit in London. in 1918 to 1922, became President-Elect in 1926, was Prime Minister from 1926-1928 and for almost four months in 1930, and Minister for nawałnica noun (f) Military Affairs from 1926 until his death in 1935. severe storm My CV isn’t nearly that impressive! Well, you probably didn’t raise an army (the aforementioned Nawałnice i trąby powietrzne niszczą polskie domy. Polish Legions), annex , stage a coup Severe storms and tornados are destroying Polish homes. d’etat, or lead a miracle that saved the nation. You mean the Miracle on the Vistula? That’s the one – what Poles refer to as Cud nad Wisłą. It was during the Polish-Soviet war, from 1919- zwyciężyć (zwyciężę, zwyciężysz) - (v. perf.) 1921. The Battle of Warsaw was the turning to win, to be victorious. point of the war, as Piłsudski’s army beat the Soviet troops, against all odds, during a ferocious Kto zwycięży w konkurencji: skok w dal? fortnight of fighting in August 1920. The following Who will win the long jump competition? year, the Treaty of brought the war to an end.

In Brief: The former home of a defender of the You keep mentioning this army… It’s very rocznica noun (f) Polish nation. much a source of local pride in Krakow. Who’s that? Józef Piłsudski – he lived in the Way back in 1914, when Austria ruled this part anniversary of the world, Piłsudski raised the Polish Legions house at ul Topolowa 16, just behind the railway 1 sierpnia Polska obchodzi rocznicę Powstania Warsza- station, with his wife Maria, from 1906 to 1910. right here in Małopolska. He didn’t even ask the Piłsudski… I’ve seen that name somewhere: Austrians for permission. wskiego. It’s hard to miss, in Krakow as in most other Bookend biography: Józef Klemens Piłsudski. On 1 August Poland celebrates the anniversary of the War- Polish cities. Here, you have probably climbed the Born December 5, 1867, Zułów (now Zalavas, in Piłsudski Mound (Kopiec Piłsudskiego), crossed ). Died May 12, 1935, Warsaw. saw Uprising. the Piłsudski Bridge (Most Piłsudskiego), walked 10 Krakow Post | August 2012 www.krakowpost.com SPORT SPORT IN BRIEF Poland’s Olympic cavalcade The A-Z of Poland’s Olympians Archery Rafal Dobrowolski, Natalia Lesniak Athletics Jakub Adamski, Rafal Augustyn, Iga Baumgart, Agata Bednarek, Kamil Budziejewski, Paulina Buziak, Marcin Chabowski, Przemyslaw Cza- jkowski, Patryk Dobek, Agnieszka Dygacz, Paw- el Fajdek, Rafal Fedaczynski, Joanna Fiodor- ow, Zaneta Glanc, Magdalena Gorzkowska, Igor Janik, Karolina Jarzynska, Tomasz Jaszczuk, , Anna Jesien, Anna Kielbasinska, Daria Korczynska, Katarzyna Kowalska, Kacper Kozlowski, Kamil Krynski, Adam Kszczot, Rob- ert Kubaczyk, Dariusz Kuc, Marcin Lewan- dowski, Tomasz Majewski, Piotr Malachowski, Marcin Marciniszyn, Kamil Masztak, Lukasz Michalski, Artur Noga, Lukasz Nowak, Martyna Opon, Bartosz Osewski, Lukasz Parszczynski, Michal Pietrzak, Renata Plis, Marika Popowicz, , Monika Pyrek, Pawel Rakoczy, Anna Rogowska, Rafal Sikora, Grzegorz Sudol, Justyna Swiety, Matylda Szlezak, Henryk Szost, Agnieszka Szwarnog, Dawid Tomala, Karolina Tyminska, Robert Urbanek, Piotr Wiaderek, Anita Wlodarczyk, Pawel Wojciechowski, Pa- The Polish team process into London’s Olympic stadium trycja Wyciszkiewicz, Artur Zaczek, Szymon Ziolkowski She was among the great hopes of Poland Archutowski, vice-president of the Polish of ten, when they won three gold, six silver , , Michal Logo- sz, Robert Mateusiak, Przemyslaw Wacha, Na- for glory at the London Olympics, but Federation (Polskiego Zwiazku Tenisowego and a bronze. diezda Zieba Agnieszka Radwańska fell at the first stage – PZT) said he could not understand the Back then, the golds came from Majewski, Beach Volleyball – being beaten convincingly by 24th-seed reaction to the missing eagle, and that the the mens quadruple sculls rowing team of Grzegorz Fijalek, Mariusz Prudel Boxing German Julia Goerge. same rules applied to the volleyball team. Michał Jeliński, Marek Kolbowicz, Adam Karolina Michalczuk Cracovian Radwańska carried the flag at Fencing hopeful Sylwia Gruchała also Korol and Konrad Wasielewski, and gymnast Canoe Marcin Grzybowski , Tomasz Kaczor, Grzegorz the head of the Polish team in the opening made a shock early exit, losing in the first Leszek Blanik, for the men’s vault. There was Kiljanek, , Aneta Konieczna, Piotr Kuleta, Beata ceremony on Monday – a decision she round. She was beaten 8:9 by Kanae Ikehata, silver for the fencing team of Tomasz Motyka, Mikolajczyk, Karolina Naja, Natalia Pacierpnik, Marcin Pochwala, Mateusz Polaczyk, Piotr Szcz- may now regret, as no Polish flag bearer of Japan. And the men’s lightweight four Adam Wiercioch, Radosław Zawrotniak epanski, Piotr Siemionowski, Marta Walczykie- has won a medal at the games since 1992. rowers were eliminated early on too. and Robert Andrzejuk in the epee, and for wicz, Maciej Bielecki, Maciej Bodnar, Piotr The curse struck again in the first round, There is still hope for others, though, Łukasz Pawłowski, Bartłomiej Pawełczak, Brzozka, Aleksandra Dawidowicz, Michal Go- las, Marek Konwa, Michal Kwiatkowski, Kamil when Radwańska, runner-up at this year’s including the volleyball team, who beat Italy Miłosz Bernatajtys and Paweł Rańda in Kuczynski, Katarzyna Pawlowska, Maja Wloszc- Wimbledon tournament, found herself back 3-1 in Pool A. Tomasz Majewski (shot put the mens lightweight coxless four rowing zowska, Malgorzata Wojtyra, Damian Zielinski Fencing on centre court at the world’s most famous – gold, 2008), Piotr Małachowski (discus, event. Silvers also went to Szymon Kołecki Karolina Chlewinska, Sylwia Gruchala, Mag- tennis venue. She lost 7-5, 6-7 (5), 6-4. She silver, 2008), Konrad Czerniak (swimming), (weightlifting, 94kg), Piotr Małachowski dalena Piekarska, Adam Skrodzki, Aleksandra will now compete in the doubles, partnered and Mateusz Kusznierewicz, (sailing). But, (discus), Maja Włoszczowska (cross- Socha, Martyna Synoradzka, Malgorzata Wojt- kowiak, Radoslaw Zawrotniak by her sister Urszula. Nevertheless, she was Syłwia Bogacka – with a silver in shooting – country cycling), and Aneta Konieczna and Gymnastics - Artistic a fitting choice as flag bearer, for it was here is the sole Polish medal winner to date. Beata Mikołayczyk in the canoeing K-2 500. Roman Kulesza, Joanna Mitrosz, Marta Pihan- Kulesza in the city of Krakow, on October 12 1919, The Polish squad will compete in wrestling, Agnieszka Wieszczek won bronze in the Judo that a motion to create the Polish Olympic weightlifting, triathlon, tennis, taekwondo, women’s freestyle wrestling (72kg). Tomasz Adamiec, Katarzyna Klys, Daria Pogorz- elec, Urszula Sadkowska, Janusz Wojnarowicz, Committee was passed. table tennis, swimming, shooting, sailing, Whatever happens, it’s going to be difficult Pawel Zagrodnik A minor side-row erupted in the Polish rowing, modern pentathlon, judo, to miss events as they unfold. TVP plans Modern Pentathlon press after Radwańska’s game, with questions volleyball, gymnastics, fencing, equestrian, to air some 450 hours of live broadcasts Sylwia Gawlikowska, Lukasz Klekot, Szymon Staskiewicz, Katarzyna Wojcik being raised about why she went on to cycling, canoeing, boxing, badminton, and analysis from the games between the Rowing centre court without the Polish eagle on her athletics and archery. Overall, there are opening and closing ceremonies – and of Krystian Aranowski, Milosz Bernatajtys, Mar- cin Brzezinski, Mikolaj Burda, Magdalena Fu- tennis kit. However, news portal Wprost24 more than 200 Polish athletes competing in course www.krakowpost.com will keep you larczyk, Jaroslaw Godek, Wojciech Gutorski, reports that it was because of the rules of this year’s Olympic Games in London. They updated throughout August. Rafal Hejmej, Piotr Hojka, Michal Jelinski, the International Tennis Federation. Wiktor aim to better their 2008 medal haul Anthony Casey Piotr Juszczak, Marek Kolbowicz, Adam Korol, Joanna Leszczynska, Sylwia Lewandowska, Natalia Madaj, Julia Michalska, Lukasz Paw- lowski, Pawel Randa, Zbigniew Schodowski, Nevertheless, it was the bonus seconds Lukasz Siemion, Michal Sloma, Kamila Socko, Katarzyna Grzybowska, Qian Li, Marcin Mat- Misery on sports Michal Szpakowski, Daniel Trojanowski, Konrad kowski, Natalia Partyka, Zengyi Wang awarded to Moser in the penultimate stage Wasielewski Tennis misery in July that proved to be Kwiatkowski’s undoing. Sailing Mariusz Fyrstenberg, Klaudia Jans-Ignacik, Lu- Pawel Kolodzinski, Piotr Kula, Mateusz kasz Kubot, Agnieszka Radwanska, Urszula Rad- First it was misery at Euro 2012, then The Pole said: “I did everything possible to Kusznierewicz, Przemyslaw Miarczynski, Zofia wanska, Alicja Rosolska Agnieszka Radwańska fell at the final hurdle hang on to the yellow jersey and I thank all Noceti-Klepacka, Jolanta Ogar, Lukasz Przy- Triathlon bytek, Agnieszka Skrzypulec, Anna Weinzieher, Maria Czesnik, Marek Jaskolka, Agnieszka Jer- at Wimbledon. Further disappointment my team mates for an excellent job. In the Kacper Zieminski, Dominik Zycki zyk followed as Michał Kwiatkowski lost the last metres, Moser took off super strong and Shooting Weightlifting chance to become the first Pole ever to win I really did my best to stay on him.” Beata Bartkow Kwiatkowska, Syłwia Bogacka, Bartlomiej Wojciech Bonk, Marcin Dolega, Agnieszka Nagay, Paula Wronska Arsen Kasabijew, Aleksandra J Klejnowska- the Tour de Pologne cycle race. For Cracovians, the final stage of the Tour Swimming Krzywanska, Joanna Lochowska, Ewa Mizdal, Going into the final stage in Krakow, de Pologne in the city was a great honour – Natalia Charlos, Marcin Cieslak, Konrad Czer- Tomasz Bernard Zielinski, Adrian Edward Zielin- niak, Anna Dowgiert, Otylia Jedrzejczak, Ra- ski, Krzysztof Maciej Zwarycz Kwiatkowski was a second ahead of the or a pain. Sports fan Agnieszka D told the doslaw Kawecki, Pawel Korzeniowski, Oskar Wrestling field, and only had to retain that lead in Krakow Post “It’s perfect, the whole country Lukasz Banak, Damian Janikowski, Iwona Nina Krupecki, Slawomir Kuczko, Kacper Majchrzak, order to win the race. But it was the Italian is looking at Krakow. ” However, for Piotr K, Aleksandra Putra, Mateusz Sawrymowicz, Di- Matkowska, Monika Ewa Michalik ana Sokolowska, Karolina Szczepaniak, Dawid Volleyball Moreno Moser who won the stage and it was a different story. Szulich, Marcin Tarczynski, Alicja Tchorz, Katar- Zbigniew Bartman, , Jakub the competition. But Moser needed bonus “I tried to get from the market square zyna Wilk, Lukasz Wojt Jarosz, , Michal Kubiak, Bartosz Taekwondo Kurek, Marcin Mozdzonek, , points to claim the title – and Kwiatkowski to Bracka, and had to walk half way down Michal Loniewski Michal Ruciak, Michal Winiarski, Pawel Zagum- can take comfort in the fact that he is now Grodzka before I could find a place to cross ny, Lukasz Zygadlo Table Tennis only just behind the Italian in the rankings. the road,” he said. Anthony Casey www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post | August 2012 11

A little bit of Polish DO STARTU - GOTOWI - START! A TY?

grać - Czy lubisz sport? skakać w piłkę strzelać o tyczce nożną z łuku grać

w siatkówkę - Jaki sport uprawiasz? pływać jeździć UPRAWIAĆ na rowerze grać SPORT w koszy- - Czy oglądasz olimpiadę w Londynie? kówkę grać Jakie dyscypliny? Komu kibicujesz? w tenisa

© by M. Gałęziowska & Accent School of Polish & Accent School M. Gałęziowska © by kajakować uprawiaćboks biegać READY, STEADY, GO! AND SPEAK POLISH WITH US. For more Polish visit www.polishforforeigners.com! New Polish courses starting in August at Accent School of Polish!

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