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La Nautica Italiana Ri-Prende Il Largo 72 Multibrand E Outlet Nel Tax Free 20 Tecnomar, Riparto Da Solo Shopping 48

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La Nautica Italiana Ri-Prende Il Largo 72 Multibrand E Outlet Nel Tax Free 20 Tecnomar, Riparto Da Solo Shopping 48 SALONE DI GENOVA La nautica italiana ri-prende il largo SPECIALE RETAIL Dai monomarca agli outlet, Numeri, Fatti e Protagonisti della Moda e del Lusso tutte le facce del retail INTERVISTA Retail, time to market e value for money: - 5 Euro questa è Teddy UINDICINALE Q PARIGI FASHION WEEK Reportage dalle passerelle parigine N° 17/ VIN° 17/ 2010 - - 4 novembre la restituzione al mittente previo pagamento resi Poste Italiane - In caso di mancato recapitoPoste inviare al CMP di Roserio per SOMMARIO ITALIA 46 Almax, debutta il manichino 4 Altagamma: la ripresa già entro il 2010 intelligente 4 Conbipel, varata la nuova struttura 48 Spa Suisse, il primo network della finanziaria bellezza 6 Versace oltre le aspettative, previsioni 54 “Il salotto della Contessa” è la nuova positive per ricavi e margini esperienza multisensoriale di Thun 20 6 Con Caccialupi Flash & Partners guarda 56 Inchiesta: Corso Vittorio Emanuele, ad Est arriva lo straniero! 60 C’è la crisi? I top chef si spostano negli MONDO hotel 8 Burberry, l’Asia-Pacifico trascina le vendite nel primo semestre (+21%) OSSERVATORIO CUSHMAN & 8 Hugo Boss accelera nel third quarter WAKEFIELD 28 (+19%) e alza le stime 2010 52 Retail: si riparte! 10 Paco Rabanne prepara il rientro nel prêt-à-porter GIRO POLTRONE 10 LVMH continua lo sprint: +19% al 70 Braglia lascia Sinv, Dalla Rovere terzo trimestre amministratore unico 12 Online e sviluppo internazionale nel 70 Sixty Group: Bongiovanni nuovo AD, 44 mirino di Gap Inc. entrano anche Pullini e Bortoletti 12 Replay affida la Francia a Karim 71 Guess ingaggia J. Michael Prince come Meflah e ripensa lo store parigino chief operating officer SPECIALE NAUTICA GLOBAL BLUE 14 La nautica italiana ri-prende il largo 72 Multibrand e Outlet nel Tax Free 20 Tecnomar, riparto da solo Shopping 48 PARIGI FASHION WEEK LICENZE 23 La moda francese? Un affare di stato 73 Zippo accende il mondo dei profumi 24 Dalle passerelle le tendenze per la P/E con Mavive 2011 73 Alexander McQueen gestirà direttamente il business McQ 54 INTERVISTA 28 Hogan celebration by Karl Lagerfeld LIFESTYLE 75 A vele spiegate con Alviero Martini 1ª AZIENDA DEL MESE Classe 30 Retail, time to market e value for money: questa è Teddy COMUNICAZIONE & EVENTI 76 La dueña del color ospite a Torino FOCUS RETAIL della Fondazione Sandretto Re 34 Inchiesta: come (ci) cambia l’outlet Rebaudengo 38 Traconf, il futuro nella logistica di moda 77 A Cariaggi il certificato Confindustria si chiama outsourcing “Eco” 40 Il franchising in Italia raggiunge i 21,7 miliardi CASA & DESIGN 42 Aumento di capitale per Privalia che 78 Poltrona Frau alla conquista dell’Asia In copertina: Gucci, Advertising Campaign SS punta al Sudamerica 79 Snaidero fa tappa a Mosca e presenta 2001 - Courtesy of Gucci 44 Fashion Valley rivoluziona l’outlet Ola 20 all’estero Quindicinale, www.pambianconews.com in edicola il Giovedì (scheda abbonamenti all’ultima pagina) 4 novembre 2010 PAMBIANCOWEEK 3 ITALIA ALTAGAMMA: LA RIPRESA GIÀ ENTRO IL 2010 contrazione del 2009, che ha visto sibilità di superare i numeri registrati il campione analizzato da “Fashion nel 2007, un anno di grande sviluppo and Luxury Insight”, il rapporto per il settore”. “Noi ci impegneremo annuale presentato da SDA Bocconi come sempre - ha aggiunto Versace e Fondazione Altagamma (65 azien- - per la difesa dei marchi, la tutela de del lusso, quotate e riconosciute delle produzioni nazionali e contra- a livello internazionale e con un giro stando la contraffazione. Questo sarà d’affari superiore ai 200 milioni di possibile anche grazie all’alleanza con euro ciascuna) perdere in termini di il Comité Colbert e con Walpole (i fatturato il 5,3% e riportare un ebitda corrispettivi di Altagamma in Francia all’11% e una redditività degli investi- e Regno Unito, ndr) affinché ci sia una menti (Roi) pari all’8,3% (nel 2008 legislazione che difenda la creatività, Santo Versace era del 9,9%). Tra le imprese maggior- l’industria manifatturiera europea e mente colpite nel 2009 ci sono quelle che chieda agli altri mercati la recipro- Dopo l’annus horribilis 2009, le italiane, con un fatturato in diminu- cità, perché l’Europa è il mercato più imprese dell’alto di gamma possono zione dell’11,8%, seguite da quelle aperto rispetti a tutti gli altri Paesi del finalmente tirare un sospiro di sollievo. asiatiche a -7%, statunitensi a -5%, del mondo”. Entro la fine del 2010, secondo i dati Resto d’Europa a -2,7% e francesi a Secondo l’Altagamma Consensus preconsuntivi presentati dall’Osser- -1,3%. 2011, la ricerca realizzata in partner- vatorio Altagamma saranno tangibili Come precisato però dal segretario ship con i maggiori analisti interna- quei segnali di ripresa a lungo attesi : della Fondazione, Armando Branchini zionali specializzati, l’ebitda segnerà la crescita stimata è infatti del 10%. “benché sia innegabile una tenden- un +15% rispetto al 2010, mentre le Nel dettaglio, l’arredamento haute za negativa delle vendite, questa è categorie di prodotto che registreran- de gamme metterà a segno un +9%, generalmente associata ad un miglior no le performance migliori il prossimo dopo il calo del12% del 2009, mentre controllo dei costi operativi e ad una anno sono pelletteria (+8%), gioielle- il mercato dei beni di lusso personali riduzione significativa del capitale ria-orologeria (+8,5%) e abbigliamen- registrerà un incremento del 10% a circolante rispetto alle vendite. Ciò to (+7,5%). fronte di una flessione dell’8% dello suggerisce che le imprese moda e alta Sul fronte dei mercati, l’Asia, il Medio scorso anno. Ancora poco incoraggian- gamma di tutto il mondo sono state Oriente e l’America Latina domine- ti invece i dati sulla nautica-yacht di capaci di contrastare il trend negativo ranno la ripresa, con una crescita a lusso: se nell’anno precedente la dimi- del 2009 con più forte focus sull’effi- doppia cifra. Anche l’Europa e Nord nuzione delle vendite è stata pari al cienza”. America riporteranno un progresso 22%, nel 2010 si attende ancora un Per quel che riguarda il 2011, significativo, mentre il Giappone, sep- calo del 16%. E la ripresa è stimata “se tutto procederà regolarmente - pure per il settimo anno riporterà un solo a partire dal 2011 con un +6%. come ha annunciato il presidente di calo dei consumi, registrerà un lieve Segnali tuttavia positivi rispetto alla Altagamma, Santo Versace - c’è la pos- miglioramento. ANCHE SU WWW.PAMBIANCO.TV CONBIPEL, VARATA LA NUOVA STRUTTURA FINANZIARIA Al via il riassetto finanziario per linee di credito per 25 milioni di euro. Conbipel, che ha raggiunto l’inte- “La nuova struttura finanziaria mira a sa con gli istituti finanziatori, ossia sostenere lo sviluppo del piano indu- Unicredit, GE Capital, Intesa Sanpaolo, striale 2011-14 – commenta Frederic MPS, Banca Popolare di Vicenza, Vitre, AD dell’azienda di abbigliamen- Banca Popolare di Novara e Cassa di to – Conbipel sta implementando un Risparmio di Asti. L’accordo prevede progetto che prevede nei prossimi 4 l’immissione di nuove risorse già effet- anni la trasformazione della rete nego- tuata da parte dell’azionista Oaktree zi, una nuova offerta di prodotti e ser- Capital Management per 20 milioni vizi, la creazione di partnership strate- di euro, la conferma delle linee di cre- giche di sourcing e il completamento dito esistenti a medio lungo termi- del processo di riposizionamento del ne per 112 milioni di euro e nuove marchio e di comunicazione”. 4 PAMBIANCOWEEK 4 novembre 2010 www.pacorabanne.com ITALIA VERSACE OLTRE LE ASPETTATIVE, PREVISIONI POSITIVE PER CUCINELLI, 2009 A +9,8% E RICAVI E MARGINI PREVISIONI DI CRESCITA PER IL 2010 Il Gruppo Versace con- ha riguardato poi l’Ebitda, che il 30 ferma le previsioni di giugno 2010 ammontava a 6,4 milioni ritorno alla redditività di euro contro il milione dello stes- annunciate lo scorso so periodo nel 2009 (passato a -2,4 anno. Il fatturato della milioni a fine anno), e dovrebbe toc- maison della Medusa care a fine anno i 18 milioni di euro, dovrebbe, a fine 2010, migliorando l’obiettivo iniziale di 13,3 attestarsi a oltre 280 milio- milioni. Infine, anche l’indebitamento ni di euro, superando i finanziario dell’azienda – che dall’in- 270 milioni fissati come gresso dell’AD Gian Giacomo Ferraris obiettivo e i 268 milioni nel giugno 2009 si è resa protagonista del 2009 (-20% rispet- di un riassetto organizzativo, riduzioni to al 2008). Un signi- dei costi e del personale - è sceso sotto i ficativo miglioramento 70 milioni di euro. Il Gruppo Brunello Cucinelli ha chiuso l’anno fiscale 2009 con risul- tati migliori delle attese. L’azienda di Solomeo (PG) specializzata in abbi- gliamento in cashmere e fibre nobili, LINEAPIÙ E TATTI PASSANO A LINEAPIÙ ITALIA SPA ha registrato lo scorso anno un fattura- to di 158,1 milioni di euro, in crescita Lineapiù e Filatura Tatti, due rami a Giuliano Coppini, co-fondatore di del 9,8% rispetto al 2008, e un utile d’azienda del gruppo tessile di Capalle Lineapiù, rimane la carica di presidente prima delle imposte di 8,2 milioni (Fi) in amministrazione straordina- onorario con delega per la parte cre- (+3,3%). ria, sono stati ceduti ad una newco ativa e commerciale. Lineapiù Italia E anche le previsioni per il 2010 pro- denominata Lineapiù Italia Spa. Soci mira al rilancio dei brand della società, spettano aumenti a doppia cifra: le della neonata società sono l’azionista Lineapiù e Filclass, e prevede di chiu- vendite previste nel corso di quest’an- di maggioranza Finalba srl con il 56%, dere il 2010 con un fatturato di 28,5 no ammontano infatti a 193 milioni FI.GE. srl con il 33% ed Enrico Tatti milioni di euro, per poi consolidare tale di euro, con un incremento del 22%, con l’11%.
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