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Focus Retail Euro FOCUS RETAIL 5 - Inchieste, interviste e approfondimenti UINDICINALE Q sulla distribuzione Numeri, Fatti e Protagonisti della Moda e del Lusso N° 10/VI - 20 Maggio 2010 a restituzione al mittente previo pagamento resi Spedizione in abbonamento postale 70% DCB Milano - Poste Italiane - In caso di mancato recapitoSpedizione in abbonamento postale 70% DCB Milano - Poste inviare al CMP di Roserio per l Intimo & mare, Gli investimenti pubblicitari Il futuro di Sandro Ferrone? le tendenze dell’estate 2010 2009 dei marchi beachwear È sempre il pronto moda! Sommario ITALIA AZIENDA DEL MESE 4 Luxottica, utile del 1° trimestre a +21% 56 Il futuro di Sandro Ferrone? È sempre 4 Parte il riassetto di Only the brave e il pronto moda! Diesel chiama Daniela Riccardi 6 Gucci Group cresce del 5% e spinge i INTERVISTA conti di Ppr 60 Faliero Sarti, dalla linea bambino al 40 6 Italservices, le vendite crescono del 20% patriottismo del “made in Italy” 8 Il tessile torna in positivo (+4,7%) e spinge una timida ripresa LA MODA IN BORSA 62 Aprile dolce dormire MONDO 10 Shiseido, vola l’utile a +74% M&A 10 Vf Corporation alza l’outlook per il 65 A Jones Apparel Group il 55% di 54 2010 Stuart Weitzman 12 Estée Lauder, terzo quarter a +10% 65 Harrods passa al Qatar 12 Exploit di Hermès, 1° trimestre a +18,5% GLOBAL BLUE 14 Nike vuole crescere del 40% in 5 anni 66 Tax Free Shopping: i top spender 14 Mustang fa rotta verso Oriente arrivano dalla Russia 56 SPECIALE RETAIL GIRO POLTRONE 16 2010: quando il lusso si sposa con il 67 Tansky lascia il timone di Neiman retail Marcus 18 Fattore monomarca 67 De Grisogono sceglie Gérald Roden 26 Fred Mello sfreccia con la Mille Miglia 60 e il progetto corner LICENZE 28 L’Erbolario punta ai 100 punti vendita 68 Primi passi di Daniele Alessandrini nel in Italia childrenswear 30 Patrizia Pepe, tra aperture ed 68 Eyevit e Paciotti rinnovano fino al e-commerce la parola d’ordine è retail 2014 32 I Blustore Stonefly corrono alla conquista del Mediterraneo SPECIALE INTIMO&MARE 72 34 FoxTown, continua l’avanzata della 69 Le tendenze dell’estate 2010 volpe svizzera 70 La moda a fior d’acqua 36 Silvian Heach, focus sui negozi di fascia 72 La grinta di Sundek esce dall’acqua alta 74 Pambianco: nel 2009 precipitano gli 40 Il mondo fiabesco di Thun accelera sui investimenti pubblicitari di intimo e mare monomarca 42 Il design italiano ripartendo dagli CAMPAGNE & EVENTI italiani 80 Tris di bellezze per Rimmel 44 Griffe, made in Italy e tendenze: la 80 Parah promuove Nastya Kunskaya per ricetta dei templi dello shopping la P/E 2010 48 Anche nel largo consumo le grandi marche puntano a valle LIFESTYLE 52 Cushman & Wakefield: primi segnali 81 Patrick Jouin fa il Cordon Rouge a In copertina: Sfilata P/E 2010 Dolce&Gabbana di risveglio del mercato immobiliare G.H. Mumm 54 Venistar, una soluzione ad ogni 81 Gucci restaura Il Gattopardo e La problema! Dolce Vita Quindicinale, www.pambianconews.com in edicola il Giovedì (scheda abbonamenti all’ultima pagina) 3 20 maggio 2010 Italia Luxottica, utile del 1° Safilo sente trimestre a +21% i benefici della cura Luxottica riprende quota nel primo trimestre del Safilo Group, dopo la recente ricapi- 2010 mettendo a segno una crescita su tutti i para- talizzazione e l’ingresso di Hal Holding come socio metri. Il fatturato dei primi tre mesi è aumentato di riferimento, chiude il primo trimestre 2010 con ven- del 6% a 1,39 miliardi di euro mentre l’utile netto dite stabili (-0,7%) e redditività in aumento (+14,6%). è salito a doppia cifra (+20,8%) a 95,1 milioni di Risultati confortanti per lo specialista eyewear che, nono- euro. Dati che si spiegano con il buon andamento sia stante la cessione delle catene retail (non profittevoli) della divisione wholesale (+10,4%) sia di quella retail di Australia e Spagna, non ha risentito del calo delle (+3,4%), in particolare negli Stati Uniti, dove i ricavi vendite, ma ha invece beneficiato della razionalizzazione sono cresciuti del 6,1%, grazie alle solide performan- delle spese marketing e del taglio degli oneri finanziari. ce di LensCrafters e Sunglass Hut. L’indebitamento infatti è sceso passando dai 588 milioni Recentemente il gruppo di eyewear di Agordo ha di euro di fine 2009 a 315,4 milioni nel primo trimestre. inaugurato due flagship store a New York e Londra. Nel periodo gennaio-marzo, dei 286 milioni di euro Significativi anche i risultati che arrivano dai mercati di ricavi registrati dal gruppo guidato dall’a.d. Roberto emergenti che continuano a registrare tassi di crescita Vedovotto, le montature da vista hanno rappresentato il annuali intorno al 30% e che hanno spinto l’incre- 39,4%, in crescita del 3,1%, mentre gli occhiali da sole, la mento del canale wholesale. Tra i diversi brand in por- fetta più significativa delle vendite (55,3%), hanno subìto tafoglio, Ray-Ban e Oakley si confermano i migliori a una flessione (-2,5%). A livello geografico l’Europa ha livello di performance. “I risultati del primo trimestre risentito dell’andamento negativo del mercato, mentre rappresentano un avvio di anno solido e promettente l’Asia (Giappone escluso) ha registrato la performance - ha commentato il ceo del gruppo, Andrea Guerra. Il migliore (+10,5%) seguita dalle Americhe (+1,6). 2010 si sta confermando come un anno normale, che per Luxottica significa innanzitutto crescita”. Parte il riassetto di Only the brave e Diesel chiama Daniela Riccardi Ferragamo 2009 a -10% Dopo due anni di studio, per Renzo Rosso è arrivato il momento di varare il riassetto di Only the brave. Il che Calano le vendite nel 2009 significa riorganizzare un gruppo che fattura 1,3 miliardi di Salvatore Ferragamo. Il di euro e che detiene la partecipazione di Diesel, 55Dsl, gruppo fiorentino infatti Staff International, Maison Martin Margiela e la maggio- ha registrato una flessio- ranza di Victor & Rolf, con l’obiettivo di dare vita a una ne dei ricavi del 10% (620 gestione manageriale moderna e a un nuovo modello milioni di euro), che ha organizzativo. Così, il punto di partenza di quest’opera- impattato negativamente zione è stata la nomina di Daniela Riccardi come nuovo sugli indici di redditività: a.d. di Diesel, il marchio veneto di jeanswear da sempre l’ebitda si è attestato a guidato da Renzo Rosso insieme al suo braccio destro 62 milioni di euro (-28% Marina Tosin. Con una lunga esperienza nel colosso dei rispetto al 2008) e il risul- prodotti di largo consumo Procter & Gamble, Daniela tato netto è stato negativo Riccardi ha una conoscenza approfondita dei mercati per 15 milioni di euro per Michele Norsa internazionali, dall’America Latina alla Russia fino alla via di oneri fiscali straor- Cina, dove la manager ha ricoperto la carica di presidente dinari relativi agli esercizi precedenti.dIlbl Il bilancio della divisione locale di P&G. Una regione, quella asiatica, chiuso al 31 dicembre ha anche messo in evidenza di importanza strategica per Diesel, che qui ha registrato che l’Asia rappresenta ormai il 50% delle vendite del percentuali di crescita a doppia cifra. Questo cambio ai brand che ha all’attivo 570 punti vendita a livello vertici del marchio jeanswear si lega a doppia mandata worldwide. Oltre alla Cina, anche l’America Latina con la riorganizzazione della holding. Passato il testimone si piazza tra le regioni che hanno performato meglio di Diesel alla Riccardi, Renzo Rosso e Marina Tosin si nell’anno appena concluso. concentreranno così su Only the brave che con questo In crescita invece il primo trimestre per il gruppo nuovo assetto sarà separata dalle società operative e avrà guidato da Michele Norsa con un aumento dei ricavi compiti di indirizzo strategico e gestione degli investi- pari al 10,7%, con una crescita del 21,2% del canale menti. Inoltre, tutto il mondo di Renzo Rosso si trasferirà retail diretto (299 negozi). all’interno del quartier generale di Breganze (Vicenza), uno spazio di oltre 35.000 m² immerso nel verde. 4 20 maggio 2010 Italia Parte bene il 2010 di Siste’s Gucci Group cresce del 5% e spinge i conti di Ppr Il gigante del lusso Ppr torna in positivo grazie alla domanda dei marchi di moda e lusso nei Paesi emergen- ti. Nel primo trimestre del 2010 Ppr ha così registrato ricavi per 4,1 miliardi di euro, in crescita dell’1,2 % rispetto all’analogo periodo del 2009. “Queste perfor- mance – ha commentato il chairman e ceo del gruppo, François-Henri Pinault - sono in gran parte frutto di offensive commerciali che abbiamo intrapreso l’anno passato e che perseguiamo, mantenendo comunque i nostri sforzi per il controllo dei costi”. Tra le diverse divisioni del gruppo è stato Gucci Group ad archiviare i risultati migliori, totalizzando un giro d’affari di 895 Siste’s archivia il primo trimestre 2010 con un fatturato milioni di euro, in aumento del 4,7%. In particolare, di 8,7 milioni di euro, in crescita del 41% rispetto allo ogni brand della galassia Gucci Group ha registrato stesso periodo dell’anno precedente. Il brand negli ulti- performance positive, a partire da Gucci che è cresciuto mi mesi ha proseguito l’espansione retail con le apertu- del 3,8% fino all’exploit di Bottega Veneta, in salita del re di Bologna, in via Indipendenza 8/V, e Roma, in via 9,5%. Un incremento, quello complessivo del gruppo del Tritone. Queste si sono aggiunte al primo negozio guidato da Robert Polet, che si spiega con l’aumento monomarca dell’azienda aperto nel settembre scorso a delle vendite nell’area Asia-Pacifico (+22%), con Cina in Milano, in corso Buenos Aires, e ai sette corner operativi testa (+39%).
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