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Home , Albert Armitage, Frank Wild, Frank Worsley, Gauss (ship), Grytviken, Quest (ship)

R o b e r t F a l c o n S c o t t his sights from the north to the , was born in 1868 in Devonport on planning. Scott and the expedition it became a race, the outskirts of Plymouth, . returned to England to general acclaim. one that Amundsen At thirteen he entered the Royal Naval Briefly he found himself the social lion of ultimately won College as a cadet. Six years later an , a role he took to less well than and Scott lost. event occurred, seemingly unimportant Shackleton, now a rival. In late 1906 Scott Scott and his men at the time, that was to direct his destiny. met Kathleen Bruce at a luncheon, and perished, possibly Clements Markham, influential in though as different as night and day—she a s m u c h f r o m geographical circles, was watching a was something of a Bohemian—they were disappointment as boat race from the bridge of his cousin’s inexplicably drawn to one another and from cold and starvation. warship in St. Kitts in the West Indies. married. It was an odd match but with Some months later, before leaving Scott’s boat won the race. Markham took the birth of a son, Peter, their love for , the remaining members of notice and wrote “that Scott was the one another became deep and intense. the expedition hauled a large wood cross destined man to command the Meanwhile, to the top of Observation Hill. It is expedition.” Other than in Markham’s returned from his second Antarctic there still, on it carved the words from mind no such expedition was underway expedition, becoming then the man of Tennyson’s Ulysses: “To strive, to seek, to back in 1887, though by the turn of the hour and a knight as well. The urge to find, and not to yield.” The foundation the century there was and Scott was its return south grew in Scott, encouraged no for Scott’s heroic legacy was even then commander. A respectable though hardly doubt by the still obsessed Markham. The being set. Within days of the tragic news distinguished naval career was about to expedition had a full scientific reaching England a memorial service was head in new directions. program planned, but the goal was really held at St. Paul’s Cathedral, attended The National Antarctic Expedition the Pole itself, for King and Country. by the King. Kathleen Scott sculpted a was an ambitious effort run, at Shackleton had tried his hand; now Scott statue for Waterloo Place; and plaques, Markham’s insistence, along naval lines. would finish the job. Of course, he hadn’t memorials, stained glass windows arose A considerable amount was accomplished expected to eye the throughout the Empire. Scott was now despite deficiencies in preparation and same goal. Once the Norwegian shifted Scott of the Antarctic, the nation’s hero. T H E N A T I O N A L A N T A R C T I C EX P E D I T I O N

The National Antarctic Expedition was jointly under the command of a scientist). including productions of the “Royal Terror sponsored by the Royal Geographical Society left England in August of 1901 and after Theatre.” Up to this time the exploration and the Royal Society. It was the first great stops along the way, reached the Ross Sea in of Antarctica had been limited to the coastal land-based expedition to Antarctica and early 1902. Winter Quarters were established fringes. What lay beyond was entirely a matter although an attempt at the Pole was among at Hut Point on Ross Island. The Discovery of speculation. The first Antarctic aerial ascent the objectives, geographical exploration and was the first ship to visit the area since the was accomplished in a balloon named Eva basic science were to be the prime pursuits. A voyage of Sir in 1841. A from which Shackleton took the continent’s specially designed and constructed ship, the prefabricated hut was erected which still first aerial photographs. From an elevation of 172-foot sail and steam powered Discovery, stands as an historic site at the edge of the 800 feet Scott saw nothing but snow and ice was built in Dundee, (where it may giant U.S. McMurdo Station. The 40 men, stretching to the south. So when the Polar be seen today). Robert Scott was chosen however, lived on board the ship, which was Party—Scott, Wilson and Shackleton—set leader, a victory for Sir Clements Markham frozen in at the shore, while the hut was used out on the 2nd of November, 1902, they had (the Royal Society wanted the expedition for storage and such things as entertainments, little idea of what might lie ahead. There was

The officers and crew of the Discovery. Scott is The Discovery at Winter Quarters, Ross Volume II of the South Polar Times. The original was standing in the center, hands together; Wilson and Island, with the Hut in the foreground, a periodical with light poetry and essays submit- Shackleton (arms folded) to his right in suits. and Observation Hill rising behind. ted anonymously. Shackleton was editor. 19 0 1 – 0 4 “DI S C O V E R Y” difficulty with the equipment, the dogs, and led a party to explore Victoria was headed home. The Discovery was going to with the weather, but they continued on and Land and the Western Mountains and became have to spend another winter at Hut Point. by the 30th of December they were at the the first to walk on the Polar Plateau and to A year later, in February, two relief ships furthest south yet attained by man—82° 16’ ascend an Antarctic glacier. Another team went appeared on the horizon: the Morning and 33”. The limit had been reached and although to Cape Crozier to get Emperor penguin eggs, the Terra Nova. The ice conditions were no the mountains and Polar Plateau were in but they were too late, though this would be better this time and plans were proceeding sight, they turned homeward. They had been a prelude to the famous “Worst Journey” on to abandon the Discovery when at the last plagued by scurvy, Shackleton especially so. the . moment the ice began to break up and the He was spitting blood and for awhile had The Discovery was to leave for home in ship was once again afloat. The three ships to be carried on a sledge. They made it back 1903 but the ice still held her fast. The relief headed north thus ending man’s longest stay to Hut Point, but just barely, on the 3rd of ship Morning got to within eight miles. Mail in the Antarctic up to that time. February 1903. was exchanged, supplies transferred and Over 900 miles of land and 150 miles of While Scott was on the southern journey, personnel reduced, Shackleton being one that ice shelf were explored and a good start had been made along the South Polar Trail.

Shackleton, Scott and Wilson starting off for Shackleton, Scott and Wilson on their The Discovery still fast in the ice with the the Pole, November 2, 1902. Note the sledge return, February 3, 1903. The effects of Morning in the background; she was finally flags which were used on both of Scott’s the three-month journey are evident. freed on February 16, 1904. T H E B R I T I S H A N TA R C T I C E X P E D I T I O N

The British Antarctic Expedition or ‘Scott’s rely on significant private donations. There lived in. In true naval tradition, the officers Last Expedition’ was in many ways a continu- were 65 men in the party, 19 Siberian ponies, and the men had separate quarters, as best one ation of the : some of the 34 dogs and several motor sledges. In the end, can in a space 50 by 25 feet. The Terra Nova, same people returned, the science program the main transport was man-hauled sledges just before heading back to for the built upon earlier accomplishments, the area of as it had been ten years earlier. winter, cruised along the Great Ice Barrier operations (the Ross Sea) was the same, and, In Melbourne, Scott received a cable: and by chance came upon Amundsen’s of course, the ultimate goal was identical: to “Beg leave to inform you, Fram proceeding at the Bay of Whales. Visits were exchanged, reach the Pole. The expedition’s ship—the Antarctica. Amundsen.” The pressure was now but the atmosphere was chilly at best. 187-foot Terra Nova—left , , on on. In December the Terra Nova entered the Before winter set in, depot laying parties June 17, 1910. Scott had chosen this as the pack ice and on January 2nd, 1911, a landing headed south in preparation for the polar dash port of departure because of the great financial was made at on Ross Island, a few in the spring. The Northern Party under Vic- support that had come from its citizens. The miles north of Discovery’s Winter Quarters. tor Campbell was dropped off at Cape Adare expedition, like nearly all at the time, had to Here the new hut was erected, a hut to be by the northward-bound Terra Nova. This

Sir Clements Markham, The Terra Nova meets the Fram Captain Scott writing Roald Amundsen, Amundsen (left) and three of his four Kathleen and Robert in the Bay of Whales alongside up his journals in his conqueror of the companions at their camp, Scott on the Terra Nova. the Great Ice Barrier, February 3, ‘Den’ at Cape Evans. South Pole. December 14, 1911. 1910 –12 “TERRA NOVA” OR SCOTT’S LAST EXPEDITION group of six was to suffer horrendous priva- Wilson, Petty Officer Evans (all three had been and strongest, was the first to succumb, on the tions and had to winter-over in an ice cave. together on the Discovery), L.E.G. Oates and 17th of February. The next, a month later, was The other amazing effort was the mid- the fifth man, added almost as an afterthought, Oates, who on his birthday sacrificially left the winter trip made by Bowers, Wilson and Cher- ‘Birdie Bowers.’ They reached the Pole on tent during a blizzard, never to be seen again. ry-Garrard to Cape Crozier to retrieve three the 17th of January 1912, only to find that The end came for Scott, Wilson and Bowers Emperor penguin eggs. Temperatures got as Amundsen’s party had beaten them by over a on March 29th, together in their tent, pinned low as -77°. Cherry-Garrard’s classic book, month. The disappointment was overwhelm- down by a blizzard, only 11 miles from the The Worst Journey in the World, chronicles this ing. Scott wrote in his journal “Great God! depot that might have saved their lives. The month-long ordeal. This is an awful place and terrible enough for next spring a search party found the tent. The Polar Party with its support group left us to have laboured to it without the reward of The journals and equipment were removed, Cape Evans on October 26, 1911. The final priority.” There was nothing to do but start the the tent collapsed, and a snow cairn and cross members were chosen once the Polar Plateau 800–mile homeward journey, a trip they were erected. Nearly ninety years later this final was reached: Scott, his best friend Edward in no fit condition to make. Evans, the largest resting place is slowly moving northward.

“Great God what an awful place!” At “I’m just going outside and may be some time.” Captain Scott’s last The snow cairn built above the South Pole, January 17, 1912. Oates, Captain Oates walked willingly to his death in entry in his journal, the final resting place of Bowers, Scott, Wilson and Evans. a blizzard to try to save his comrades. March 29, 1912. Scott, Wilson and Bowers. Y O U R H E R O , M Y H E R O

This may seem a curious title for a talk child. In 1979, Scott was the subject or for this keepsake. What does it mean? of a scathingly critical book by Roland From the late 1890s to about 1920 the Huntford; he championed Amundsen focus of the world of exploration was over Scott, and ever since Scott’s star on the Antarctic. The last significant has dimmed. At least until recently. Just blank spaces on the globe were at as certain as what goes the bottom of the world, and up, must go down, these became the setting Scott may now be in for great and stirring the ascendancy. Last deeds of heroism. September an auction Scott, Amundsen and was held in London Shackleton are names which contained that will be ever tied items associated with to this Heroic Era. Scott, some having Each in his time had been retrieved from his eye on the South the tent where he National memorial Lutyens’ statue of to Scott and his Pole. Amundsen died. The highlights of Shackleton on the men on Mt. Wise in beat out Scott in earlier auctions in the façade of the Royal Plymouth, England. getting there, but same series were mostly Geographical Society. his was a methodical Shackleton related. though expert journey that somehow The Scott items generated far more never captured the world’s imagination. attention and higher prices. Perhaps the Shackleton never got there at all, pendulum is starting to swing in the but it is Shackleton who is now the other direction. center of attention. A year ago an Apsley Cherry-Garrard, who was on extraordinarily popular exhibit on Scott’s Last Expedition, summed it up his expedition opened at succinctly: the American Museum of Natural “What is the use of A running down Scott History in New . It continues to because he served with Shackleton, or B travel to other cities and will for some going for Amundsen because he served with time. Caroline Alexander’s book, The Scott? They have all done good work; within their limits, the best work to date. There Endurance, has sold more are jobs for which, if I had to do than half a million copies. them, I would like to serve under The book that first brought Scott, Amundsen, Shackleton and Shackleton to widespread Wilson—each to his part. For a joint attention in the U.S.—Alfred scientific and geographical piece of organization, give me Scott; for Lansing’s Endurance—has a Winter Journey, Wilson; for a been reprinted again and dash to the Pole and nothing else, again since its appearance in Amundsen: and if I am in the devil 1959. In an earlier time, it was of a hole and want to get out of it, Scott who was the household give me Shackleton every time. They will all go down in polar history as word, the tragic hero who leaders, these men.” died with his companions on the return from the Pole. A statue of Amundsen at his So, as is probably always the ‘Scott of the Antarctic’ was house near . Fram left for the South from the fjord case, we each have a favorite familiar to every British school in the background. hero. Which one is yours? T H E H E R O I C A G E

The flurry of Antarctic exploration that Discovery Expedition (1901-04), under began in the late 1890s had as perhaps Ro b e r t Sc o t t , and the British Antarctic its major impetus the declaration of Expedition or Expedition the In t e r n a t i o n a l Ge o g r a p h i c a l (1907-09), under Er n e s t Sh a c k l e t o n . Co n g r e s s —meeting in London in Both of these and their leaders are the 1895—that “…the exploration of the focus of this keepsake, as are ‘Scott’s Antarctic Regions is the greatest piece Last Expedition’ (1910-13) and Ro a l d of geographical exploration still to be Am u n d s e n ’s Norwegian expedition undertaken.” Individuals and nations (1910-12), the first to reach the Pole. heeded the call, and The Heroic Age Other noteworthy efforts: The was launched. Scottish National Antarctic Expedition Who were some of the leading under Wi l l i a m Br u c e in the lights in this quarter century of intense (1902-04); the party included a exploratory activity? piper who, dressed in a kilt, enjoyed Among the first was the Belgian serenading the penguins. The French Ad r i e n d e Ge r l a c h e who sailed were represented by two expeditions south in the Belgica (1897-99). As led by Je a n -Ba p t i s t e Ch a r c o t , first in it turned out the expedition was the the Française (1903-05) and later in the first to winter-over in the Antarctic Pourquoi Pas? (1908-10). The Japanese (unplanned) when the Belgica found were even trying their hand: No b u itself trapped in the ice. Two of the Sh i r a s e reached the Great Ice Barrier crew, who would make their names in the Kainan Maru (1910-12) and later in polar circles, were a young his seven-man ‘Dash Patrol’ covered Norwegian, Ro a l d Am u n d s e n (first to 180 miles over the ice. The Australian, the South Pole) and an American, Dr. Do u g l a s Ma w s o n , who had been on Fr e d e r i c k Co o k (a claimant along with the , reaching the Peary to being first at the ). , went on to lead Other expeditions followed in quick his own expedition to the “Home of succession: Ca r s t e n Bo r c h g r e v i n k the Blizzard,” the windiest area of the in the Southern Cross (1898-1900), windiest continent. His epic solitary the ten men wintered-over at Cape sledge journey after the deaths of his Adare in a hut that still stands; the two companions and the loss of most of German Er i c v o n Dr y g a l s k i in the their equipment is one of the great tales (1901-03), it also got trapped in of survival. the ice; and the Swedish South Polar By 1922, the year of Shackleton’s Expedition under Ot t o Nordenskjöld death, The Heroic Age had come in the Antarctic (1901-04), which was to a close. Really it had ended with eventually crushed in the ice and sank, the rescue of Shackleton’s men from three separate parties wintering-over, (1916): the intervening none knowing where the other was, Great War caused minds to be on things and miraculously finding one another other than exploration. Later, others the next season. Each of these early made their names in the Antarctic— encounters with Antarctica had its tale Wi l k i n s , By r d , El l s w o r t h , Fu c h s & to tell and its share of heroes. Hi l l a r y (they succeeded in Shackleton’s Two great expeditions of this time of crossing the continent in were Britain’s National Antarctic or 1958)—but it wasn’t quite the same.

SHACKLETON–ROWETT ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION 1921–22

One of the first questions that Shackleton , but he changed his mind and looked looking tired, this would be Shackleton’s last asked upon arrival at Stromness after crossing south again, this time backed by an old school voyage. The Quest arrived in on the was “Tell me, when was the chum, John Rowett. The expedition’s goals 4th of January, 1922. Early on the following war over?” He must have been shocked at were somewhat vague: map 2000 miles of morning, Shackleton died in his cabin. And the answer: “The war is not over. Millions continental coastline and search the southern with his death a great era came to a close. are being killed. . .The world is mad.” Once seas for “lost” reefs and islands. The Quest, a The expedition continued under Frank the men of the Endurance were home, most, small, decrepit Norwegian sealer was bought, Wild, Shackleton’s steadfast companion on all including Shackleton, immediately joined the and on the 17th of September, 1921, she sailed four expeditions. The Quest revisited Elephant war effort. Some who had survived so much down the Thames, under and Island. On the voyage home, the crew erected in the Antarctic were to die in the trenches or on to South Georgia. Among his men were a cross for “The Boss” overlooking the harbor on the seas. , and several others of Grytviken and the Whalers’ Cemetery where With the war finally won, Shackleton began from the Endurance; such was the pull of he had been laid to rest. to think of an expedition to the Canadian “The Boss.” N o w 4 7 a n d

The Quest before departure in London. A former Shackleton (in the center with cap and tie) The memorial cross erected by the crew of the Norwegian sealer, she was in terrible shape, but and his expedition members aboard the Quest. Quest, Grytviken, South Georgia. Across the managed to complete her voyage. Frank Wild is to his left, then Frank Worsley. bay in the Whalers’ Cemetery is Shackleton’s 19 14 – 1 6 “E N D U R A N C E”

Eighty-Five Years Ago Today, 1915 “The most wretched weather conceivable. nature shows but her sullen moods. Oh! for a Raining all night and day. Nearly washed out gleaming ray of her smiling sunshine. The Day’s Menu: of tents. Work during the morning excavating (From the diary of ) Breakfast - Tinned Pilchards in tomato ice shelter, which I am afraid will be of little use sauce, porridge. owing to the streams of thaw water running Twelve days before today in 1916, the men Luncheon - Pemmican hoosh. through it. The roof rains water and were it of the Endurance landed on Elephant Island, Dinner - Stewed seals, kidney in onion, not for the wind one might just as well sleep in their first dry land in 497 days. Boiled sultan pudding cake. the open. Wet to the skin. With the prospect Three days before today in 1916, (From the diary of Thomas Orde-Lees) of coming relief, however, and being on land Shackleton, Worsley, Crean, McNeish, “Poor Spotty dies during the night from one can endure much. McCarthy and Vincent and set out in the pneumonia–this leaves 50 dogs.” Gloomy prospect out to sea, with storm James Caird for South Georgia, 800 miles (From the diary of Frank Worsley) seas breaking over the dull white bergs and away. Eighty-Four Years Ago Today, 1916 sinister coast. This is truly a land where

‘Ocean Camp’ on the ice floe: On the left, Launching the James Caird at Elephant Island, August 30, 1916: Sir Ernest returns to Sir Ernest with Frank Wild, his companion April 24, 1916. Her gunwhales were raised and rescue the men on Elephant Island. The on all four of his Antarctic expeditions. a deck installed for the 800-mile voyage. Chilean tug in the distance. I M P E R I A L T R A N S– A N TA R C T I C E X P E D I T I O N

The Pole was conquered and Scott was dead. start of the Great War. The Aurora, with the to the north side where the stations Shackleton, again with southward thoughts, , sailed from Sydney on the 15th were; later, after four attempts, the men on saw no purpose or reward in being the 11th of December. The Endurance never reached Elephant Island were rescued, on the 30th of man to the reach 90° South. But to cross the proposed base in the but got . the continent via the Pole, that would be a held in the ice in January 1915, and months And what of the men at the other side spectacular feat. Thus was born the Imperial later, on November 21, 1915, sank. The men of the continent? The Aurora anchored at Trans-Antarctic Expedition. The plan was for of the Endurance, after 497 days of being Scott’s old base at Cape Evans. A great storm the main party to approach the Pole from the away from land, arrived at Elephant Island. tore the ship away—leaving the men with Weddell Sea and once there to continue on to Perhaps the world’s greatest survival story only the clothes on their backs—and it too McMurdo Sound picking up depots that had was actually just beginning. Sir Ernest and became trapped in the ice, not to get free for been laid the season before by the Ross Sea five others set out in the 22’6” James Caird ten months. With great difficulty, the Party Party. The Endurance sailed from Plymouth for South Georgia, 800 miles away, landed on did its job and laid the depots, not knowing, on the 8th of August 1914, four days after the the south side, crossed unclimbed mountains of course, that they would never be used.

The proposed route of The actual circcular route of The men of the Endurance. Shackleton in The Endurance trapped in the ice of the expedition, scribbled the expedition, from December white sweater in the center; behind his left the Weddell Sea. She finally sank on by Shackleton on a menu 3, 1914 to May 10, 1916. shoulder is Frank Wild, polar veteran. November 21, 1915. BRITISH ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION 1907– 09 “NIMROD”

Shackleton, invalided home on the Morning, the chief goals. The Nimrod left England The accomplishments of the expedi- probably began thinking about his own on August 8, 1907, and New Zealand on tion were many: Mt. Erebus, the nearby Antarctic expedition even before the Discovery November 23rd. Terribly overloaded, as were 12,448-foot active volcano was ascended; Ant- arrived in England, though his plans weren’t most Antarctic expedition ships in those days, arctica’s first motor vehicle actually worked, made public until February, 1907. With she only had 3’6” of freeboard. Shackleton had for awhile; the first book written, illustrated, support from several wealthy benefactors he promised Scott he would avoid Ross Island as printed and bound in the Antarctic (Aurora purchased an old sealer, Nimrod, and began a base. This was Scott’s neighborhood after all Australis) made its debut; Mawson, David and organizing. He placed a newspaper ad: “Men and he might go back one day! Ice and weather MacKay reached the South Magnetic Pole. wanted for hazardous journey. Low wages, conditions were poor, though, and Shackleton But the feat that would catch the imagination bitter cold, long hours of complete darkness. had little choice but to set up his hut at Cape and interest of the British nation was the Polar Safe return doubtful. Honour and recognition Royds, 20 miles north of Scott’s old base. It Journey undertaken by Shackleton, Adams, in event of success.” 400 men applied. The was small (33 x 20 feet) but democratic, unlike Marshall and Wild. They turned back 97 miles Poles—geographical and magnetic—were Scott’s hut. from their goal but they lived to tell about it.

The Hut at Cape Royds, Ross Island, January 16, 1909: MacKay, David January 9, 1909: Adams, Wild and Shackleton with Mt. Erebus in the distance. It and Mawson at the South Magnetic at the Furthest South, 97 miles from the Pole. accommodated 15 men in 725 square Pole, a round-trip of 1260 miles. Marshall took the photograph. Neither dead E r n e s t H e n r y S h a c k l e t o n nor an ass, Shack- was born in 1874 at Kilkea House, Co. did his captain’s bidding. Once back leton came home a Kildare, . The family moved to in London and with no rivals about, hero, and before the England in 1884, eventually settling in Shackleton lost no time in employing his year was out he was Sydenham. Ernest attended nearby Dul- considerable charm and natural speaking Sir Ernest. Might wich College until he was sixteen when ability to publicize the expedition (and his near-success he joined the merchant navy. Soon he was also himself). have driven Scott rounding the Horn on the square-rigged Shackleton’s four Antarctic expedi- to go South again Hoghton Tower. Later, while a Third Of- tions spanned 20 years, each venture and Amundsen to ficer with the Union Castle Line on the south interspersed with on-shore attempts change his plans and head there too? run, he met the son of the in one field or another: He was secretary Maybe. Each went and each reached the major sponsor of the expedition Scott of the Royal Scottish Geographical Soci- Pole. This posed a question for Shackle- was then organizing. Before he knew it ety, ran for Parliament and got involved ton: with the Pole conquered, what’s left? he was aboard the Discovery as a Second in a variety of ventures and schemes, few One answer: cross the continent, the “last , RNR—Scott wasn’t the only proving very successful. The Ice seemed great journey.” Thus was born the Impe- one destined to have a chance encounter to have a hold on him. rial Trans-Antarctic Expedition. Though shape the rest of his life. Shackleton took He returned to the Antarctic as leader ambitious and grand in scale, based on to Antarctic exploring with enthusiasm, of the Nimrod expedition, unquestionably its objectives, it was an utter failure. But and was rewarded when Scott chose him his most productive Antarctic undertak- what an adventure! What a tale of pluck for the Polar Party, along with Wilson. ing, and got to within 97 miles of the and survival! The three ventured far further south than Pole. He and his companions could have With the War over, the South again anyone before them; all suffered in the gone on; but if they had, would they have called. In 1921 Sir Ernest set out on his process, however, especially so Shack- managed to get back? Shackleton thought last Antarctic expedition aboard the Quest. leton. They made it back—barely—but not. As he later explained to his wife, Within hours of arriving at South Geor- Scott decided to send him home on the Emily: “I thought, dear, that you would gia, “The Boss” was dead. As the Quest relief ship, Morning. Ernest reluctantly rather have a live ass than a dead lion.” continued on its way, the curtain closed