Fall 2008 — BeanMagazine.com Exploring Quebec’s Exploring Wine Region Wine 80 and entered into the area now known as the Eastern Eastern the as known now area the into entered and crossed border Quebec the loyalists several British century. 18th the in to late back dates area the in agriculture of history the But Vermont. of north just border U.S. to the adjacent area an Townships, Eastern the of part western the in located is which region, vineyard was founded in Brome-Missisquoi the climate. perished in quickly vines the province’s the cold that said it’s century, mid-17th the in there grapes explorer Samuel de wine planting Champlain tried French that it has legend new. Although relatively is inis Quebec of the industry descent, some of North America’ssome of North most beautiful landscapes. region,Brome-Missisquoi an area that also happens to be home to excellent vineyards lie of the Vermont just north border in Quebec’s or hop aplane to Bordeaux to visit world-class wineries. Several Wine Lovers Have aNew Destination During and just after the American Revolution, Revolution, American the after just and During first the that 1980s early the until wasn’t It population the of majority the where a place For You don’t have to fight the crowds in California’s Napa Valley to Add to Their Bucket Lists courtesy photos from Vignoble de La Bauge, Léon Courville Vigneronn Vigneronn Courville Léon Bauge, La de Vignoble photos by photos by Emilie-Noelle Provost Emilie-Noelle Emilie-Noelle Provost Emilie-Noelle using French the method of yeast fermentation. made being ciders hard find can you where America North in few places the of one It’s ciders. hard excellent and wines of variety a wide produce that those found in New England. resemblance founded bearfarmers to a striking and centers village in early these communities the architecture names, town today, the Even speaking. English- largely was region the that fact the as Townships’ ample and available farmland, as well by Eastern the who wereEnglanders attracted New of anumber by followed were settlers English century, these early soil.arid, sandy In mid-19th the area’s the from aliving out toscratch could they what doing began and Crown the by land of tracts granted were They asylum. of search Townships in 81 Brome-Missisquoi is now home to 22 vineyards vineyards to 22 home now is Brome-Missisquoi

Photo courtesy of Vignoble de La Bauge La de Vignoble of courtesy Photo

content. Quebec wines taste fresher and are more delicate.” Over the past five years, Naud has been gradually phasing out the use of herbicides and pesticides at the vineyard, experimenting with natural methods of pest control. His newest efforts include using sheep to control the grass and weeds that grow among the rows of grapes, and keeping an aviary of bicolored swallows on the property to eat insects. “Using sheep is not only better [than using herbicides] for the wines, it helps us to use less gas and also saves us time,” Naud says. Visitors to La Bauge can take a free tour of the area where the vineyard’s exotic livestock roam and

Photo courtesy of Vignoble de La Bauge then stop at the vineyard’s shop and cafe. There, you can sample a few wines, enjoy some locally Page 80-81: Formerly a dairy farm, Vignoble de La Bauge, located in Brigham, Quebec, makes several varieties of wine. Over the last five years, Simon Naud, the vineyard’s owner, has been gradually working toward growing his grapes organically. This Page: In addition to making made cheeses and smoked sausages made on-site excellent wines, Vignoble de La Bauge is also home to a wild game farm. Pictured here are a few of the farm’s red deer. Opposite Page: Many of the grapes grown in Quebec are hybrid varieties, such as and St-Pépin, that are uniquely adapted to the region’s cold climate. from the vineyard’s own livestock, and pick up a few bottles of wine to enjoy later. About a five-hour drive from Boston or New Today the vineyard and wild game farm, which is Set high on a hill overlooking majestic Lake York, and just about an hour from Montreal, Brome- now home to boar, yaks, emus, llamas and red deer, Brome, about 20 miles west of Vignoble La Bauge, is Missisquoi’s “Wine Route,” or “Route des Vins,” is is owned and operated by the Nauds’ youngest son, Léon Courville Vignernon. Founded in 1999 by Léon easy to navigate by car. The winding country roads Simon, who has continued to grow the operation Courville, a former economics professor at l’Ecole offer beautiful views and are dotted with stands and refine the techniques used to cultivate the des Hautes Etudes Commerciales de Montreal, Fall 2008 — BeanMagazine.com selling fresh produce, corn and cut flowers during vineyard’s grapes since 1996. the University of Montreal’s business school, the summer and fall. Vignoble de La Bauge, which takes its name and the former president and chief operating officer One of the region’s oldest vineyards, Vignoble from the French word for a wild boar’s den, of The National Bank of , this 350-acre de La Bauge is located in the town of Brigham, grows several varieties of grapes. Some, like the property offers visitors gorgeous panoramic views about 20 miles north of the Vermont border. Owned Frontenac, are hybrids of domestic and wild vines that rival any in France or California. by the Naud family since the early 1950s, the land that are well-adapted to Quebec’s harsh winters. Beginning in 1981, Courville, who started out as where the vineyard now stands was once home La Bauge produces 11 different wines, including a wine collector, gradually acquired the land where to a dairy. Beginning in 1976, Alcide and Ghislaine Rassemble-Heure, a light, fruity red; a crisp white the vineyard now stands. Curious to see if he could Naud’s oldest son, Robert, began raising wild boar called Equinox; and Novembre, a delicious, slightly produce world-class wines in Quebec, he planted on his parents’ dairy farm. Then, in 1986, Alcide and sweet dessert wine. 4,000 vines in 1999. When the resulting wines Ghislaine decided to close the dairy and go into the “Quebec wines have their own unique signature,” proved to be of good quality, he was encouraged wine business, planting 5,000 vines. Simon Naud says. “The wines are very clean, to continue, with the planting of more vines and the They added 1,000 vines in 1989, and aromatic and fruity. In warmer climates, wines lack opening of the winery’s shop and tasting room in enjoyed their first vintage in 1990. acidity and tend to be heavier with a higher alcohol 2005. Photo by Emilie-Noelle by Provost Photo

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Today, the operation is owned by Courville and Lemire. A hybrid grape from Minnesota that was his wife, Anne-Marie Lemire, who is also the winery’s rarely seen before Courville began having success general manager. Twelve varieties, including with it, St-Pépin is well adapted to Quebec’s climate. , , , vidal, Maréchal Foch “The St-Pépin has won many prizes and is being and St-Pépin, are among their more than 80,000 heavily planted elsewhere following our success,” vines. They are used to produce 17 different wines, Lemire says. including four varieties of red, seven whites and two Courville’s other award-winning wines include Fall 2008 — BeanMagazine.com types of rosé, as well as ice and dessert wines, and their Vidal Reserve and XP. “The Vidal Reserve has a made using the same method as received a very positive mention by [British wine Champagne. critic] Jancis Robinson,” Lemire says. “The XP is a Léon Courville Vigneron’s wines have won red wine, luscious and complex, yet with only 11.5 several awards, which Lemire attributes to the percent alcohol.” attention given to quality throughout the operation. Like Naud at La Bauge, Lemire says Quebec’s

Photo courtesy of Léon Courville Vigneron Léon courtesy of Photo “Our philosophy is to produce great quality wines tend to be fresher and crisper than those wines by focusing on the process of winemaking coming from warmer regions. She also believes and grape maturity,” Lemire says. She also notes winemaking in Quebec is looking at a bright that some of their success is due to the production future. “Climate changes that present problems in This Page: Located in in Lac-Brome, Quebec, Léon Courville Vigneron’s boutique offers wine tastings of new and unique varieties of wine that “add to California, causing them to produce heavy wines and serving suggestions to customers. All of the boutique’s employees speak both French and English. Opposite Page: Bottles of sparking wine age in the cellar at Château des Cartes in Durham, Quebec. wine heritage.” with high alcohol levels, do a favor to Quebec by St-Pépin is among these unique varieties and extending the growing season,” Lemire says. is one of Léon Courville‘s top wines, according to Léon Courville Vigneron’s on-site shop offers

84 85 tastings during business hours. A 45-minute tour of fortified cider called Pomineau, made from Cortland the winery, often led by Lemire herself, is available apples, that’s quite good served over ice. for $10 (Canadian) per person. Reservations are On weekends during the summer and early required for groups of 10 or more. fall, Château de Cartes serves pizza on their deck For those who might be hesitant to visit because that’s prepared in a wood-fired oven. Wine and they don’t speak French, Lemire says, “Our staff is cider tastings are available for between $1 and $10 fully bilingual, and Lac-Brome’s population is about (Canadian) anytime during business hours. Winery 50 percent English-speaking. Of the 15,000 guests tours led by Lamarre are available on weekends we host each year, I would say that close to 10 by reservation. These 45-minute tours cost $20 percent are Americans.” (Canadian) per person and include a tasting of Specializing in sparking wines and hard ciders, various wines and ciders. All products produced at Château de Cartes is located in the town of Dunham, Château de Cartes can be purchased in their on-site just a few miles north of the Vermont border. This store. small winery and cider producer is owned and “In Brome-Missisquoi you can have real operated by husband and wife team Anik Desjardins conversations with real people who are making

Photo courtesy of Léon Courville Vigneron Léon courtesy of Photo and Stéphane Lamarre, who purchased the land, wine,” says Simon Naud of Vignoble de La Bauge. then an orchard, in 2006. Over time, they have “We are not big commercial entities. We’re authentic. gradually grown the business and today produce You’ll get good food and good wine and meet good about 20,000 bottles of wine and cider per year. people while supporting family businesses. On top Like La Bauge and Léon Courville, Desjardins and of all that, the area is very beautiful.” Lamarre grow a variety of hybrid grapes that are well adapted to Quebec’s climate, including St- Vignoble de La Bauge Pépin, Frontenac and Marquette. Brigham, Quebec (450) 266-2149 Although Château de Cartes — which means LaBauge.com “house of cards” in French, in deference to the Fall 2008 — BeanMagazine.com

Photo by Emilie-Noelle by Provost Photo unpredictable nature of the wine business — is small, Léon Courville Vigneron it produces 15 varieties of wine and hard cider, all of Lac-Brome, Quebec Photo by Emilie-Noelle by Provost Photo them very high quality and unique to the region. (450) 242-2665 One of the best is a sparkling white called PetNat, LeonCourville.com a slightly fruity wine with hints of citrus produced Château de Cartes in the Alsatian style. Also excellent is the sparkling Top: The vineyard at Léon Courville Vigneron is set Dunham, Quebec high on a hill overlooking Lake Brome, offering visitors rosé. Made using the same method as Champagne, (450) 295-2359 gorgeous panoramic views. Bottom Left: Château des Cartes’ owner and winemaker, Stéphane Lamarre, pours this wine is dry and crisp with notes of fresh berries. ChateauDeCartes.com wine for a tasting in the vineyard’s boutique. Center Right: The ciders produced at Château de Cartes Specializing in sparkling wines, Château des Cartes also Brome-Missisquoi Wine Route produces excellent hard ciders. Bottom Right: Located on are among their best sellers. Pommenbulles, their Tourism Information the site of a former apple orchard, Château des Cartes is sparking cider, is made with eight varieties of apples, one of 22 wineries on Quebec’s Brome-Missisquoi Wine (888) 811-4928 Route that are open to the public. resulting in a crisp, refreshing and only slightly sweet LaRouteDesVins.ca taste. The winery also makes two unique varieties of Photo by Emilie-Noelle by Provost Photo , one sparking and one still, and an aged

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