New Properties Take the Effort out of Luxury Living N

W20 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 CULTURAL CALENDAR Basel ART “Thurneysser Superstar” explores the WEEKEND JOURNAL. 16th-century art patron Leonhard Thurneysser zum Thurn, showing documents and stained-glass windows FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 12 - 14, 2010 WSJ.com/lifeandstyle glorifying his life. Museum für Gegenwartskunst Nov. 13-Feb. 13 41-61-2066-262 www.kunstmuseumbasel.ch

Berlin PHOTOGRAPHY “Fred Herzog. Photographs” presents a retrospective of 40 works by the German pioneer of color photography. C/O Berlin Until Jan. 9 49-30-2809-1925 www.co-berlin.info

Bilbao ART “Haunted: Contemporary Video and Performance Work” showcases work influenced and inspired by art from the past, including photographs, sculptures, videos and sound recordings. Guggenheim Museum Bilbao Until Mar. 13 34-94-4359-000 www.guggenheim-bilbao.es

Brussels MUSIC “The Brussels Requiem” celebrates the richness of cultures, beliefs and languages in Brussels, featuring La Monnaie Children’s Chorus singing in Sanskrit, Hebrew, Latin and more. De Munt–La Monnaie Nov. 19-21

32-7023-3939 Spencer Crooks/The OwlMag.com www.demunt.be Arcade Fire on tour in Madrid. Milan Hamburg DESIGN ART “Brasilia 1960-2010” explores the “Cut Silhouettes 1970-2010” shows 50 history of the Brazilian capital through works by contemporary artists documents, pictures, music and video. working with paper cuts, including La Triennale di Milano Martin Assig, William Kentridge, Until Jan. 23 Charlotte McGowan-Griffin, Annette 39-2724-34208 Schröter and Kara Walker. www.triennale.org Hamburger Kunsthalle Until Feb. 6 49-40-4281-3120-0 Paris www.hamburger-kunsthalle.de OPERA “Mathis the Painter” evokes the life of German painter Matthias Grünewald. London Opera Bastille THEATER Until Nov. 16-Dec. 6 “The Master Builder” features Gemma 33-1712-5242-3 Arterton and Stephen Dillane in the www.operadeparis.fr Ibsen tale of a craftsman who has sacrificed everything for success. ART Almeida Theater “The Whites of Their Eyes” exhibits 22 Until Jan. 8 rare primitive masks form Nepal, used 44-20-7359-4404 for religious and other performances. www.almeida.co.uk Musée Quai Branly Until Jan. 9 PHOTOGRAPHY 33-1566-1700-0 “Taylor Wessing Photographic Portrait www.quaibranly.fr Prize 2010” shows 60 works selected from 6,300 submissions, including this year’s winner and runner up. Stockholm National Portrait Gallery OPERA Until Feb. 20 “Serse” is loosely based on the life of 44-20-7306-0055 Xerxes, with music by G. F. Handel, www.npg.org.uk featuring the Royal Opera Orchestra, Karolina Blixt and Matilda Paulsson. Operan Madrid Nov. 13-Dec. 1 At your service MUSIC 46-7914-400 Arcade Fire brings its Grammy- www.operan.se Award-winning indie rock music to venues across Europe, including New properties take the effort out of luxury living n

music from their latest album, Vienna oe

“The Suburbs.” ART rK to ik

Nov. 20, Palacio de Deportes, Madrid “Power Up—Female Pop Art” presents V Nov. 21, Palau Sant Jordi, Barcelona Pop art by female artists that Nov. 24, Le Dome, Marseille influenced the movement with a Nov. 26, Halle Tony Garnier, Lyon critical and feminist point of view. FASHION FOOD TRAVEL Nov. 28, Zenith, Munich Kunsthalle Wien Nov. 29, Philipshalle, Düsseldorf Until Feb. 20 As the weather changes, Are we raising a generation Bonn steps out of its Cold War Dec. 1-2, O2 Arena, London 43-1-5218-933 More European dates at www.kunsthallewien.at jeans fill the seasonal gaps W4 of ‘kitchen orphans’? W8 shadow as a cultural capital W10 www.arcadefire.com —Source: WSJ research W2 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. W19 PAGE TWO FRIDAY NIGHT, SATURDAY MORNING WEEKEND JOURNAL. Ferran Adrià’s small luxuries and secret pleasures

plans for retirement. aly.” Whether or side of Florence actually spoke it. much. I find it very odd when I Going to the movies. Daniel De la Puente Martín. Paola de Grenet for The Wall Street Journal not Giuseppe Regional dialects nevertheless Revelations, true or presumed Garibaldi, legend- remain strong today. Most people Artusi isn’t the only prominent 59 Monk in “The Da Vinci Code” Down 49 Composer 90 Bibliog. abbr. ary leader of the here prefer them for everyday son of Romagna with a new book THE JOURNAL CROSSWORD / Edited by Mike Shenk 8-9| Food 60 Boulevard planting 1 Backyard parties, for short ___-Korsakov 91 Capitol gofer 19th-century Risorgimento that communication, and a linguist out. This week witnessed the pub- 50 Alien-seeking gp. Raising a generation of ‘kitchen orphans.’ brought together the states of the friend estimates that nearly half lication of the first volume of some Across 22 Branch of physics 29 Chi-Town 48 Quaint milk 61 Signature comedy routines 2 Villain in “Le Petit 92 Stage direction concerned with Chaperon Rouge” 53 Bond order Italian peninsula, ever actually the population still speak local dia- recently discovered “Diaries of 1 Plastered exchange containers 63 Between, to Babette 95 In working order Plus, a towering legend and blind wine tasting. 3 Like some vaccines 54 Jargon ending spoke these words, they accurately lect better than standard Italian. Mussolini.” Their authenticity is life 31 Folk singer 51 Nasser was 64 Money maker 96 Many an MIT grad 7 Dean’s world 58 Subcompact convey the central—often obses- So, too, with cuisine. Some controversial, so the publisher, 24 Lot for homes Griffith its pres. 69 Pen pal’s greeting? 4 Coffee break time, perhaps 97 Counting everyone 14 VW precursors? 5 Cloth shred 60 Euro’s forerunner sive—role food has always played dishes, such as spaghetti or veal Bompiani, no doubt recalling the 25 Egg-hitting-the- 35 Peacock’s pride 52 Coats with goo 70 Outstanding amount 100 Capital on the 16| Books 19 God of the floor sound 6 Big Ten sch. 62 Break ground in Italian culture and society. cutlet alla Milanese, have become 1983 debacle of the forged “Hitler 36 ___ au vin 55 Sue Grafton’s 71 It was translated Mississippi north wind 26 Basketball Chasing giant stars. Italy marks its 150th anniver- part of the national menu. But it Diaries,” is billing them as the 39 Concrete “___ for Alibi” by Anthony Purver 7 Both: Prefix 65 Half a laugh 103 Prevent from 20 Clint Eastwood, center? sary as a modern nation-state next is hard to find anyone from Turin “true or presumed” journals of the 41 Attacks 74 Some early PCs 8 Memorial mound 66 Some accounting practicing, in a way for one 27 Like Hawaii’s 56 Fairylike being year, and the flow of exhibitions, eating orecchiette e cime di rape Fascist dictator. Among the revela- 9 “I’ll take that as ___” entries: Abbr. 106 Suspends 21 “My gentle Puck, Mount Waialeale, 43 Tiler’s meas. of myth 77 Stead 10 Alternative to 67 Geisha’s sash 17-20 | Arts lectures, broadcasts, books, news- (ear-shaped pasta with turnip tions, true or presumed: that Mus- come hither” of all places in 47 “Burma Looks 57 Nellie’s love in 79 “Understood...” 108 It may be wild cable Internet 68 Most sagacious paper inserts and other forms of greens) or a Sicilian ordering saf- solini foresaw the eventual enmity speaker the U.S. Ahead” author “South Pacific” 80 Rock group 110 Skimpy suit Pop art, Richard Avedon’s 11 My Chemical 71 Status chaser commemoration is already well un- fron risotto. of his German allies, even as he 111 “Qué ___?” iconic photographs and Play Book / by Elizabeth C. Gorski 81 Tinted feature Romance genre 72 Have no reservations? der way. None will better express It should therefore come as no brought Italy into World War II; of some cars 112 Broadway opening the flavor of the occasion than a surprise that, more than a century and that the man responsible for 123456 78910111213 1415161718 12 “The Treachery of Images” 73 Permit rethinking ‘Don Giovanni.’ 85 NYC hrs. 113 Caribbean shade new edition next monthof Pel- and a half after the Austrian Italy’s anti-Semitic racial laws was painter 75 Nasty sort 19 20 21 86 Song of triumph 115 Did ninety legrino Artusi’s “La scienza in statesman Klemens von Metternich also given to noting that “some of 13 “May It Be” singer 76 Forwarded 87 PC character set 14 1970 Leon Uris book, and a 117 End for infer or insist cucina e l’arte di mangiare bene” dismissed Italy as a mere “geo- my best friends are Jews.” 22 23 24 78 La Salle of “ER” 19| Friday night, Saturday morning hint to this puzzle’s theme (“Science in the Kitchen and the graphical expression,” Italian unity 88 XXIII x XXIV 80 Easter season: Abbr. 118 Fall setting 25 26 27 28 15 Wards off Chef Ferran Adrià starts the weekend with some Art of Eating Well”). remains a work in progress. In lo- A cardinal moment 91 Big Ten sch. 81 Hat-tipping address 119 Alternative to “yo!” 16 Mmes. of Madrid First published in 1881, the cal elections last year, more than a Mussolini’s fantasy of a restored 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 92 Wide of the mark 82 Bone, in Bologna 120 Outlaw secret pleasures. Plus, The Journal Crossword. 17 Civil wrong book ranks as a classic on literary quarter of the vote in Lombardy Roman empire came to naught, but 93 Set the price at 83 “Swan Lake” heroine 122 Crunch targets 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 18 Pop’s bro, slangily grounds as much as for its reci- and the Veneto went to the North- Italy today is a world leader in sev- 94 Monarch whose residence 84 Leaping circus 123 Joanne of WSJ.com/lifeandstyle 21 Baroque pes. The lists of ingredients and ern League, which, though it has eral fields, including gastronomy, 47 48 49 50 51 is Huis ten Bosch performer “Thunder Bay” directions for their preparation abandoned its separatist rhetoric wine, fashion—and Catholicism. On 98 God, to Giuseppe 23 Hong Kong neighbor 124 Farm butter 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 89 Like many summer are interlaced with charming di- of the 1990s, still plays heavily on Nov. 20, Pope Benedict XVI will 99 Terrarium growth 28 Right-leaning type? TV shows 125 End of a sr.’s address 30 Mil. supplies orders gressions on history, literature, resentment of the underdeveloped create 24 new cardinals, 10 of them 59 60 61 62 101 Rude activity classical mythology, folklore, sci- and state-dependent south. from Italy, raising the nation’s 32 Justice Dept. staffers Last Week’s Solution 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 102 Oklahoma city named for ence and gossip. Artusi’s recipe If the country has a heart, share of those eligible to vote for a Tennyson character 33 Pen’s point ULSTER I TWAS I I C I CLE REL I VE DEACON AGATHAS for arista (roast loin of pork), for however, the way to it surely lies his successor to 20%, larger than 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 104 D.C. pol 34 Cart horse sound instance, explains that its name through the stomach. According any other country’s. That same af- 36 Used colorful language BAABAAWALTERS MI NOANS 105 Just one of those things ANTE DOH RET AVAR I CE derives from a form of the Greek to a recent survey sponsored by ternoon, at 4:30, the Vatican’s Ap- 77 78 79 80 37 Like some banking 107 Moved furtively NEHRU WOOFBL I TZER REX word for “good,” used by Eastern the farmers’ lobby Coldiretti, ostolic Palace will throw open its 38 Sewing bee squares 81 82 83 84 85 86 109 Sparring IDE SESAME OREO YAM Orthodox bishops to praise the nearly half of all Italians think the Bronze Doors to anyone who wants 40 Yellow Teletubby TORNUP NERDS ENS GAPS 111 Nickname for George Halas dish when it was served to them “most representative aspect of na- to personally congratulate the new 87 88 89 90 91 92 42 Orch. section ENSURES AREEL STANN I C 114 Night sch. course DEEP RAMROD ATEMPO during the 16th-century Council of tional identity” is their cuisine, princes of the church. The event is 93 94 95 96 97 98 44 They’re usually made Florence. Modern cookbook au- ahead of culture, fashion and foot- a unique opportunity to wander 116 Easily influenced group with baking powder MUJER ATARI BOSSTWEET thors often include such informa- ball. Significantly, even the ways through grand halls of state and 99 100 101 102 103 104 120 Bogart’s “The Big Sleep” EPA BRO IMS NTH ORT 45 Arkin’s “The In-Laws” ALCROAKER OESTE NEWSY tion, of course, but when Artusi that regions insult each other are stand at the window where newly co-star co-star 105 106 107 108 109 110 NIKONS DEHORN INON Barbara Tina Fuhr Editor Carlos Tovar Art Director did so, he was a pioneer. with reference to diet: northern- elected popes are presented to the 121 They involves eight atoms 46 Very, in Vichy INBOARD PEEVE GOTTAGO Beth Schepens Deputy Editor Elisabeth Limber Weekend Art Director “The Art of Eating Well” wasn’t ers are mocked as polentoni (po- world. It may be the best party 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 126 Sharp TKOS ARM AR I ES LARSEN Brian M. Carney Books Page Editor For an interactive only an homage to fine food; it was lenta eaters), southerners as ter- ever held in Rome with nothing to 127 Remove a support from t WT S E GAD C R E D I T I T E 120 121 122 123 124 125 version of The Wall also an act of patriotism. A pros- roni (soil eaters). eat or drink. 128 High school events DEW H I SSMAJESTY ECASH Street Journal AVOWERS ECO TEK ANNO Questions or comments? Write to [email protected]. perous silk merchant from the Maybe the decline of home Next week, 126 127 128 129 Manicure target Please include your full name and address. northern region of Romagna, Ar- cooking in Italy (part of a pan-Eu- Lennox Morrison in Paris Crossword, WSJ.com NEWHI RE CHESTERAARFER 129 130 131 130 Took on subscribers can go to KNEELER HELPER V I OLAS 131 Memo stam WSJ.com/Puzzles EARTAG ESSAYS ALLURE W18 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. W3 REVIEWS PROFILE A ‘Don Giovanni’ for our times Gisèle Casadesus still holds her own London: Many productions have who hasn’t just translated Da vira at short notice—and ran with it. France’s beloved grande dame talks about ‘La Tête en Friche’ and reflects on her expansive career tried, and mostly failed, to give us Ponte’s libretto, but brilliantly re- Her Act II aria “Mi tradì quell’alma a “Don Giovanni” for our times. But worked it. His version of Leporello’s ingrata” is delivered with entirely director Rufus Norris has suc- catalog aria much diminishes the believable passion. BY DALYA ALBERGE the diction of some of today’s ac- ceeded, in his very first foray into don’s conquests; it’s no longer 1,003 Iain Paterson is a terrific, scruffy tors, to whom she sheds this advice: opera, in making his don a 21st-cen- in Spain, but 103 in April. For Mr. Don Giovanni, excellent—as is isèle Casadesus’s career as a “Sometimes in the theater, I have tury amoral hedonist. His staging Sams has had the genius idea of Brindley Sherratt’s Leporello—at successful actress has difficulty understanding [them], and for the English National Opera is changing the place names for the mimicking the yokel accents of the G spanned 76 years, and at the in films too. They put very sensitive Don Giovanni as Spanish filmmaker names of the months, and Leporello peasants. Sarah Tynan’s Zerlina is age of 96, she has no intention of microphones near you in making the Pedro Almodóvar might have done now illustrates his warning to splendid and, for this “in-yer-face” retiring. film and some actors lack the ability the piece, with modern, provincial Donna Elvira with only slightly im- production, surprisingly un-raunchy; In her French homeland, she is to project. A fundamental task of ac- Spanish-looking, bland exteriors, plausible graphs and pie charts both she and her Masetto, John revered as a grande dame of stage tors is to make themselves under- utility-tiled interiors and a sympa- showing the don’s comparative Molloy, are fine comic actors. and screen, and has been showered stood. They shouldn’t mumble.” thy for the women. monthly scores. Katherine Broderick is in fine voice with awards, including her country’s In 1934 at age 20, she made her Much of the credit goes to set The food and wine for the Com- as Donna Anna, but her acting ex- highest accolade, the Légion d’Hon- first film “L’Aventurier” (“The Ad- designer Ian MacNeil for his threat- mendatore’s supper is also changed, tends only so far as to do a jig, neur, in 1990. She made her first venturer”) under Marcel L’Herbier, ening, permanent, overhead electric sometimes for the better (“a nice though her Don Ottavio, Robert film in 1934, the year she also first who made his name as a director of circuitry and rapidly shifting build- Rioja”), sometimes for the worse Murray, undresses for no apparent appeared with the Comédie-Fran- silent films. “I remember it very ings; to costume designer Nicky (“baked brisket” should surely be reason, and literally acts his (garish) çaise, the national theater of France, well,” she says. “Marcel was a great Gillibrand for her hoodies, sneakers “braised”). One seldom has occasion socks off. Matthew Best is fine in becoming one of its stars over some director.” and the Jesus T-shirts and Jake and to praise the ENO for singing in the thankless role of the Commen- 30 years of performing there. She She has starred in 27 films, in- Dinos Chapman demon masks English, but this time it’s a winner. datore—even Mr. Sams can only has played alongside legendary ac- cluding Claude Lelouch’s 1966 “Un sported by the stagehands and ex- Despite Ukrainian conductor make him bluster “Repent!” Mr. tors such as Jean Gabin, Jean-Louis Homme et Une Femme” (“A Man tras; and perhaps to movement di- Kirill Karabits taking the opening of Sams captures the comedy both of Barrault and Louis Jouvet. and a Woman”), which shared the rector Jonathan Lunn—or whoever the opera at so draggy a pace that Da Ponte’s libretto and Mozart’s Now international audiences are Grand Prize at the Cannes Film Fes- had the clever idea of including a the thrill of the director’s electrical score, adding a chilling, but all too getting a chance to see why she is tival and won Oscars. With the Co- gay couple in the big dance number arcing was almost lost, he later credible, 21st-century nihilism, mak- so admired in France. In her latest médie-Française, she has performed (with one guy straining to lift a picked up the tempo and it was a ing this a very contemporary “Don.” film, “La Tête en Friche” (titled in the classics of Molière, Marivaux partner of his own weight). musically satisfying evening. Major —Paul Levy English “My Afternoons with Mar- and Anouilh, among others—dra-

But most of the kudos for the congratulations go to Sarah Redg- Until Dec. 3 Donald Cooper gueritte”), she plays in a lead role matic, light-hearted roles, “but not update belongs to Jeremy Sams, wick, who took over the part of El- www.eno.org From left to right; Katherine Broderick, John Molloy and Sarah Redgwick. with Gérard Depardieu, one of Corneille or Racine, classic tragic France’s contemporary legends. parts like Phèdre or Britannicus.” The film, an uplifting and tender Ms. Casadesus may have been genetically predisposed for an artistic career, with six generations of ‘Retirement is a banned performers in her family. Her family The redemption of ‘The Train Driver’ tree shows 38 members involved word. If you can have roles successfully with the arts, mostly London: Veteran South African ing how “a mother with a child on who explains he is the fatal train at your age all the time, musicians. It began with her grand- playwright Athol Fugard, now aged her back and two toddlers in her driver in a lengthy monologue that, father in 1850, a talented self-taught 78, says he has come out of retire- arms stood on the tracks in front of though beautifully crafted and deliv- then you’re happy.’ violinist. Henri Casadesus, her fa-

ment to direct the European pre- an oncoming train—and when the 5- ered, I felt threatened my attention ther, was a noted composer, while Picturehouse Entertainment miere of his latest play, “The Train year-old tried to scurry away, she span. However, the relationship that her mother, Marie-Louise Beetz, a Gisèle Casadesus stars with Gérard Depardieu in the uplifting comedy ‘La Tête en Friche.’ Driver,” at Hampstead Theatre. In pulled him back before the family grows up between the working-class comedy about an elderly woman who harpist. A cousin, Robert Casadesus, the program he insists it is, “for me was pulverized under the train’s white man and the just-surviving befriends an almost illiterate middle- was a well-known pianist. Ms. Casa- personally, the most important play wheels.” It goes on to talk of the black man claims our interest. The aged man, opens Friday in the U.K. desus has four children, including I’ve written.” So the first night was train driver’s trauma at being unable playwright also fills in Simon’s hin- and in January in Germany. In the actress Martine Pascal. a particularly poignant occasion, to stop, and the additional pathos terlands sufficiently to make us care France, where it opened in June, it After training at the Conserva- with a top South African designer that no one ever claimed the bodies. about him as well—and even under- has been a box-office hit, with more toire National Supérieur d’Art Dra- (Saul Radomsky) and Mr. Fugard’s Mr. Fugard’s play concentrates stand a little about his own losses. than 1.25 million admissions so far. matique in Paris, where she won first regular lighting man (Mannie on the English-speaking Afrikaans The play suddenly grips our Directed by Jean Becker, it is prize for comedy, Ms. Casadesus Manim) on hand. The theatre is now driver (Sean Taylor) and the de- emotions as Roelf changes from a based on Marie-Sabine Roger’s 2008 went on to join the Comédie-Fran- under the artistic direction of the struction of his family, career—and man seeking to avenge himself for novel of the same name. It explores çaise in 1934—the year she also mar- exciting young director Edward Hall, entire existence—because he cannot the guilt the suicide has laid upon how chance encounters can trans- ried Lucien Pascal, the actor-director. who writes “I remember as an im- forget, or deal with, having looked him, to a man who has decided to form lives. Mr. Depardieu plays Ger- Today, Ms. Casadesus has no de- pressionable teenager watching [Mr. into the eyes of the African woman claim the spirit of the unclaimed main, who has a difficult mother and sire to leave the limelight. “I’m just Fugard’s] masterpiece ‘“Master as he involuntarily killed her. Judg- bodies. It’s theatrical, verging on a loving girlfriend. He strikes up a as passionate as I ever was about Harold”...and the Boys’ which was ing, rightly, that the audience corny (as is the twist in the narra- friendship with Ms. Casadesus’s performing, about being there to ex- presented at the National Theatre wouldn’t be able to take the full tive), but entirely forgivable, re- Margueritte on a park bench, press emotions that don’t belong to whilst my father was Artistic Direc- horror of the newspaper report, deemed equally by exquisite writing through their shared love of feeding you, but which you allow inside you. tor.” It is a pleasure to be able to “The Train Driver” has only two vic- and two monumental performances. pigeons. They have totally different It’s still just as pleasant, as time goes write that Mr. Hall has repeated the tims, the mother and her baby. Though perhaps not Mr. Fugard’s backgrounds, yet share an innate by, to feel that emotion rise within,” success of his dad, Sir Peter, for it The play opens with a narration greatest play, “The Train Driver” is sensitivity that draws them together. she says. “Retirement is a banned wasn’t an auspicious beginning. by the magnificent Owen Sejake, a healing experience: seeing it She reads him extracts from Albert word. If you can have roles at your The inspiration for Mr. Fugard’s playing Simon, the African grave makes one a little more optimistic Camus and her other beloved au- age all the time, then you’re happy. two-hander, set in a junk-strewn digger who buries “those with no about the future of South Africa. thors, and an unlikely friendship de- I’m very happy to go on filming.” squatters’ graveyard in the Eastern names,” the unidentified and un- —Paul Levy velops. “Using a dictionary is like Asked whether theater or film is

Alistair Muir Cape in February 2001, was a ghastly claimed. He is startled by the ap- Until Dec.4 traveling—from one word to the more satisfying, she says, “Always From left; Sean Taylor as the train driver, Owen Sejake as the grave digger. news story from Dec. 12, 2000, tell- pearance of the white man, Roelf, www.hampsteadtheatre.com next,” her character tells him. “You theater. But I have to do films now. lose yourself as if in a labyrinth. You If you’re playing an important part, stop and you dream.” it’s very tiring. I have to accept that In a phone interview with The I can’t go on in the theater now. Wall Street Journal Europe, Ms. Cas- Theater is a strain because you have Beauty and poetry emerge from industrial wastelands at Kunst Zürich fair adesus says she feels audiences re- to do it every evening. late to the film because “people have “‘La Tête en Friche’ was a great Zurich: For those on the lookout francs (€15,000), shows 15 clay work behind a veil of secrecy and a thirst for gentleness, love and hu- role for an older actress,” says Ms. for young and promising European bowls positioned on white pedes- romanticism. The work of Austrian mor. One has a need for it as there Casadesus, who agrees with many artists, Kunst Zürich offers plenty of tals. The installation creates a mys- painter Maria Temnitschka stands are so many films with noise and peers that there are few good roles opportunities to study and buy the terious balance, as the geometrically in sharp contrast; her oil canvases battles. The film is very human.” for older actresses. “It’s just bit Collection Villeret works of potentially rising stars. arranged pedestals, which suggest seek to inspire dejected industrial She despairs at the over-reliance parts usually.” (réf. 6639-3431-55B) The art fair, which is being held an overarching order, stand in sharp neighborhoods and city backyards on special effects in modern films. Yet she shows how she can more for the 16th time this weekend in the contrast to the rough clay balls, with a sense of beauty and poetry. “It’s ghastly,” she says. than hold her own playing opposite former factory halls of ABB Ltd., ex- which look unfinished. Her “Lagerhalle” (6,200 francs) Comparing the industry today her larger-than-life, younger co-star. hibits the works of some 300 artists, While photographic and video shows a building in yellow ochre with when she first started, she says Mr. Depardieu has paid tribute to most of whom are only known to a works are taking an increasingly big against a large blue sky, rendering it is more sophisticated technically her “femininity” and her “flirta- small number of collectors. “Zurich role at the fair—this year’s fair art the industrial wasteland a seem- and that audiences know too much tiousness.” Commenting on working has found its niche by focusing on prize went to Swiss photographer ingly friendly place. about actors. “Actresses today don’t with Mr. Depardieu, she says mod- emerging artists,” says Evelyne Fabio Marco Pirovino—the focus re- Equally attractive are the calli- have the mystique that they had in estly: “It’s very pleasant to work op- Fenner, who helped organize the fair. mains on paintings, drawings and graphic works of Syrian artist Ah- the past,” she says, recalling when posite such a great professional. He Some of the 80, predominantly sculptures, varying from pure ab- mad Moualla or the painted wood- actresses were known to turn up at a entertained me a lot because during Swiss, galleries are exclusively por- stract renderings to depictions of cuts of Swiss artist Max Hari, which party with their couturier and leave the preparation of the shot, he ges- www.blancpain.com traying the productions of their our drab industrialized age. are reminiscent of African art, with wearing another dress, “so that ticulates, laughs and talks very younger artists. Message salon, a Italian artist Luca Caccioni’s their abstract patterns and fluores- when they came out they wouldn’t loudly. Then, when you hear ‘Ac- BlanCpain Boutiques aBu DHaBi · BeiJinG · Cannes · DuBai · eKateRinBuRG · GeneVa · HonG KonG Zurich-based gallery, is showing an 2009 painting “Lotophagie” (24,000 cent colors. be seen in the same outfit.” Now, she tion,’ everything stops and he is al- MaCau · MaDRiD · ManaMa · MosCoW · MuMBai · MuniCH · neW YoRK · paRis installation from the artist group francs) is stunning for its intricate —Goran Mijuk says, “you see them doing ordinary ways pitch perfect. You feel carried sHanGHai · sinGapoRe · taipei · toKYo · ZuRiCH

secret gäng. The untitled work, use of abrasive techniques and Until Nov. 14 Kunst Zu rich 2010 things, like going to the market.” by him. My only worry was whether which is offered for 20,000 Swiss poppy-seed oil that shrouds the www.kunstzuerich.ch Visitors at Kunst Zürich fair view an array of artworks. Ms. Casadesus is also critical of or not I’d be up to his level.” W4 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. W17 FASHION ART AUCTIONS The new gold standard Avedon’s iconic photos True blue: The importance of jeans whole photography world is [ Collecting ] there,” says Simone Klein, So- Will Pop’s current dominance of the art world last? theby’s photography department As the weather changes, denim helps pad out holes in your wardrobe; Finding the perfect fit at Gap BY MARGARET STUDER director in Europe. BY ANDREW MCKIE Meanwhile, in London this Famous faces, month, Bonhams will hold its bi- [ Style ] ndy Warhol began his career nudes and fashion annual photography sale Nov. 16. as a commercial artist, pro- icons glamorize On the catalog cover is a rare BY TINA GAUDOIN A ducing magazine illustrations upcoming photog- “Nude Study” (1927), a stylized and advertisements for fashion raphy auctions in composition in which geometric A designer once houses. Less than 50 years since his Paris, London and shadow and decoration play a key told me to only Relaxed skinny jeans by Gap (£55) t first one-man show, and less than a Berlin. role, by the Czech photographer buy my jeans from quarter of a century after his death, On Nov. 20, in a special sale, Frantisek Drtikol (estimate: Gap, “because he is the most commercial artist of Christie’s Paris will offer more £25,000-£30,000). This is a “very spending money the fine-art world, a position con- than 60 photographs by Richard beautiful” work, says Jocelyn Phil- on expensive firmed by this week’s sales at the Avedon, famous for his iconic lips, head of Bonhams photogra- denim is a waste great auction houses in New York. shots of 20th-century celebrities phy department. of time.” I won’t mention the de- At the beginning of the week, and groundbreaking fashion im- And on Nov. 26 in London, signer’s name because I think they Philips de Pury sold one of his ages. The photos come from the Christie’s will hold a photography now have a denim line; but I will paintings of Elizabeth Taylor, “Men Richard Avedon Foundation, a sale filled with legendary faces say that generally speaking, I in Her Life” (1962), for $63.35 mil- philanthropic organization sup- and fashion. On the catalog cover think they were right. lion—the second-highest auction porting the visual arts. is Leonard McCombe’s “Portrait of I’m writing about jeans this price for his work—while at So- A fashion highlight will be one Texas Cowboy, Clarence Hailey week, following swiftly on from theby’s the following day “Coca-Cola of Avedon’s most celebrated im- Long” (1949). The portrait belongs parkas because like your outer- [4]” (1961-62) went for $35.4 mil- ages, “Dovima with Elephants” to a series of shots for Life maga- wear, you need to be sure that lion. On Wednesday night at (1955), featuring the American su- zine that became the inspiration during the transition of seasons Christie’s, “Big Campbell’s Soup Can permodel amid the giant animals, for the legendary “Marlboro Man” you have your ducks (well, jeans) with Can Opener (Vegetable),” an- in an evening dress by Dior (esti- advertising (estimate: £4,000- in a row. We all know that jeans other favorite subject from the pe- mate: €400,000-€600,000). The £6,000). Competing in the sale are no longer old faded faithfuls riod, didn’t quite meet the low esti- photo was taken at a circus in with Long’s cowboy charms will that you sling on at the weekend; mate of $30 million but reached a Paris, a city where the American be a pin-up image of Johnny Depp and you might also know that respectable $23.6 million. A smaller photographer covered fashion col- looking soulfully into the camera thanks to Balmain, there’s a buoy- painting, “Campbell’s Soup Can (To- lections for more than 40 years. of David Bailey (1999) (estimate: ant market for jeans worth £1,000. mato),” exceeded its high estimate, Celebrity highlights will include £7,000-£9,000). However, neither Perhaps you, like me, find the idea selling for $9 million, while at the “The Beatles Portfolio, London, work can compete in price with of paying the same price for a same sale, “Oh... Alright,” a 1964 England” (1967), a rarely available Irving Penn’s 1957 portrait of art- pair of jeans as you might for a painting by Warhol contemporary set of four psychedelic color por- ist Pablo Picasso, with big, watch- pedigree dog or a month’s grocer- Roy Lichtenstein, set a new record traits of John Lennon, George Har- ful eyes half-hidden by a sombrero ies abhorrent. If you don’t, well, I for the artist at $42.6 million. rison, Paul McCartney and Ringo (estimate: £60,000-£80,000). respect your opinion, but I sin- Much of the attention the New Starr (estimate: €250,000- Among the female images will cerely hope that if you have that York art sales receive from the me- €350,000). Avedon’s superb 1957 be a photo of British model Kate sort of income, you donate at dia focuses on headline prices and, portrait of Marilyn Monroe, show- Moss looking sulkily into the lens least double that amount to char- only as a secondary consideration, ing the actress in New York in a of British photographer Rankin ity on a monthly basis. the artists who command them. Like glittering halter-neck top, is esti- (£4,000-£6,000). Looking just as

Jeans are important because the great contemporary art fairs, Christie’s Images mated at €80,000-€120,000. sullen is “Charlotte Rampling, they fill the gaps, such as those such as London’s Frieze, FIAC in Andy Warhol’s ‘Big Campbell’s Soup Can with Can Opener (Vegetable)’ (1962) Sotheby’s Paris has fashion Saint Tropez, 1967” as she gri- left by a summer wardrobe which Paris or Art Basel Miami, the total sold for $23.6 million this week at Christie’s in New York. shots by Avedon, Irving Penn and maces into Helmut Newton’s cam- has been long packed away, and a sales rung up at these auctions are Peter Lindbergh in its photography era (estimate: £1,500-£2,500). winter wardrobe which the often seen as an indicator of the inations that now underpin the glo- there is an aesthetic lesson, it is sale Nov. 19. A particular highlight Elsewhere, in Berlin, Villa Grise- weather has yet to demand. I’m wider economy; as if a bumper year bal economic system. that the primary reference points of will be a series of nudes, which has bach will hold a rich and varied not saying you should wear them were a sure sign that the economy Warhol was exceptionally pro- Western culture are no longer de- a remarkable sculptural quality, by sale of photographs Nov. 25. A to the office; but, then again, sev- is on a sound footing, or at least in- lific, producing some 10,000 works. pendent on tradition. Knowledge is the American photographer Ed- wonderfully elegant photograph eral male friends of mine in senior dicates that a recovery is underway. Of course, other artists—Tintoretto, no longer required of the narratives, ward Weston (estimates ranging from yesteryear is on the catalog positions, who frankly should know Yet that link is tenuous at best. At Picasso and Dalí, for exam- histories, myths and values of clas- from €50,000 to €200,000). Only cover in “Mannequins, Berlin” better, are to be seen sporting the elevated level of the New York ple—shared that trait, but the sicism, the religious tradition or the back of the sitter is shown and (1932) by Marianne Breslauer. In it, jeans, blazers and brown suede sales, the art market is dominated method, and very often the subject, even theories of art that under- the effect is of pure, white marble. three mannequins in evening dress Tods on a Friday. Lazy male dress- by a very small group of players; it of Pop Art is rooted in mass produc- pinned notions of artistic merit The auctions take place during are seen from the back as they ers aside, other gaps for us fe- Gap’s ‘sexy boot tends to attract capital flight in un- tion and in popular, rather than even through the first wave of mod- Paris Photo (Nov. 18-21), an annual were portrayed in a magazine arti- males include those created by cut’ jeans (£45) t certain times; and, with an increas- rarified, points of reference. Rem- ernism and arguably as late as the photography fair where around cle entitled “Ladies’ paradise in a mandatory attendance at Saturday Gap black legging jeans (£39.95) s ing number of Russian and Asian brandt may have produced a lot intellectual abstraction of artists 100 international galleries and Berlin fashion house” (estimate: soccer games; “informal suppers” collectors, it is largely unaffected by from his studio, but Warhol had the like Rothko, Pollock or de Kooning. publishers show works from the €1,000-€1,500). A chic photograph

given by people we don’t know Gap (3) geographical considerations. Factory. Indeed, that is the basic Pop Art’s references demand no 19th century to the present day. of fashion designer Coco Chanel well (be sure to wear some serious To some extent, that has always message of Warhol’s work: he spoke more than a visit to the cinema or During this time, Paris becomes from 1937 by Horst P. Horst is esti- jewelry if you take this route—“in- been true. The poet Ezra Pound, un- approvingly of the ubiquity of Coca- the supermarket. the capital of photography. “The mated at €4,000-€6,000. formal” is a ruse to test your met- a hand in the Middle East. “The In my case, weekend, daily work about Armani, but the principle noteworthy Houlihan pants have der the influence of the social-credit Cola, one of his abiding subjects, In market terms, there are Pop tle and it certainly doesn’t mean legs on these are very long; I’m not wear (to be worn with a simple one is the company’s adherence to that “suck it all in” feel about theories of Major C. H. Douglas, at- and of the fact that it was enjoyed Art works important for their rar- “don’t try”); and periods of unem- sure they will be quite right for cashmere sweater and boots) and the brand and brand values. Empo- them, which is also why they tempted in 1933 to describe the dif- by the richest and poorest alike and ity, originality or quality, such as ployment when Marni dresses and you,” she says, surveying me gen- one pair for the evening. I tried on rio Armani jeans really are de- work). My friend Jane, a fashion ference between property and capital that more money couldn’t buy you a Warhol’s giant prints of Marilyn, Chanel boucle simply get in the tly and then looking at the “long 10 pairs in varying styles, sizes signer jeans; they look stylish, they editor who wears jeans like most by comparing his bust by Gaudier- better version of it. Elvis and Mao, and his car crash way of dishwasher loading. and lean” style (for which and shapes, and guess what? wear well, the quality is good and, people wear their own skin, raves Brzeska (“Nobody is expected to do But if the total value of the art pictures or Lichtenstein’s comic- It used to be that jeans weren’t read—your legs are too short). I’ve Denim supremo was right on the of course, they bear “that” label. about Current/Elliott and a new anything about it”) and a bond in a market is a less certain guide to book paintings. But much of what good for your self esteem; but that always liked the look of the curvy; money. I’m now the proud owner Otherwise, here follows a list of brand called Genetic Denim. railroad company (“Somebody is economic prosperity than the Dow one might call the diffusion market was in the days before stretch was “Hmm, well, you’d need a bottom of one pair of “relaxed skinnys” the designers whose jeans I rate, I know there are a few of you supposed to earn at least $60 a year Jones or the Hang Seng, it is none- in contemporary art seems to rest introduced, when lying down on for that, as the back seam is actu- (£55) for weekends, one pair of because they have something a lit- out there who frown upon jeans and pay it to me”). But this high- theless a revealing insight into on the taste of a very few collec- the floor and hauling on the coat ally cut with a curve in the denim.” “sexy bootcut” (£45) for the day- tle different about them and, more as a poor excuse for getting minded view of art divorced from which particular commodities those tors, such as Peter Brant, Philippe hanger placed strategically into So, I’m short legged with a flat time and a pair of black “skinny crucially, they reflect the ethos of dressed. To a certain extent, I commerce was as idiosyncratic as his engaged in it value most. (It isn’t Niarchos and Steve Wynn, and on your zipper was the only means of bottom—nobody is perfect. The jeggings” (£39.95) for the evening. the brand (otherwise, as my de- agree. As I pointed out initially, other economic views. for nothing that collectors talk of dealers, such as Larry Gagosian and “closure” should you have gained a denim specialist is unperturbed in Actually, scratch that. Having pre- signer friend so bluntly pointed jeans are a fail-safe, but that’s not A visit to the Uffizi, Versailles or the stock of an artist’s reputation.) Jose Mugrabi, who are strongly few pounds. Designing body-af- any case, hauling with her to the viously been a jeggings skeptic, I’m out, why spend the money?) enough of a reason to wear them the grander English country houses The previous week’s sales of Im- committed to particular artists. In- firming (if not life-affirming) jeans changing room a vast pile of jeans, now a convert. Why did it take so For the leggy Italian look, try repeatedly and without imagina- provides ample evidence that the pressionist and early Modernist deed, Mr. Mugrabi, who sold “Men has become an art form and I including, against my better judg- long to create trousers that look Dolce & Gabbana’s narrow-legged tion. Repetitious denim wearing very rich have understood the com- work—the field which commanded in Her Life” on Monday, bought a firmly believe that Gap is leading ment, “the bootcut,” “the boy- like jeans but fit and stretch like denim jeans with a darker denim can engender sartorial and intel- mercial aspects of art as an invest- record prices during the 1980s and “Jackie” for $1.65 million and a the way, not only because they are friend” and “the jegging”—a kind leggings? I went back to Gap and stripe on the side seam, £300. For lectual ennui (that’s what they do ment since before the time of the 1990s—were successful enough, but “Marilyn” for $4.45 million later in affordable, but also because their of stretchy jeans meets legging. brought my second pair. the slightly loucher French silhou- in L.A. and look at the nonsense Medici. The assumption was that a Monet water-lilies painting sold the week. denim “experts” are on hand to Don’t fall for the “you can dress There’s a chance, of course, ette, I like APC’s navy straight legs they turn out). For those amongst art shares with gold—that other for not much more than a third of Such “support” has been likened guide you through their veritable jeans up or down” line. You can’t. that you might be a denim snob. (£110) and Vanessa Bruno’s loose- us who just don’t ”do” denim, may long-standing stockpile for the price fetched by Warhol’s Eliza- to dollar-averaging in equities or as denim maze. Gap has 11 different You need to buy jeans for the occa- That’s O.K. I’m a chocolate elitist. fitting, slightly distressed denims I point you in the direction of the wealth—the qualities of beauty, beth Taylor screenprint, while Mat- an indication of faith that the work styles in various different washes, sion. Your baggy Saturday touch- We all have our weaknesses. In (£235). Jeans-aholics and celebs pricey Giorgio Armani black label, covetability, portability, irreproduc- isse’s 1934 portrait of Titine Trovato and its value will endure and grow; starting at £35. line specials will not translate to which case, I heartily recommend swear by J Brand’s long, lean lines where their selection appears to ibility and scarcity. failed to attract a single bid, though the more cynical see it as a deliber- This was my second visit to the an evening outfit, even worn with Emporio Armani for jeans for ei- and their mega-stretch denim with be limited to two exquisitely cut The current pre-eminent position its estimate ($8 million) was $10 ate distortion of the market. Gap denim specialist; my last was heels and a silk shirt. I don’t care ther sex and most especially for a touch of spandex—check out styles in expensive black denim? of Pop Art and the continuing million lower than the price that Whether Pop Art remains the gold about four years ago (and I’m still how many fashion magazines try troublesome, fashion-aware teens. their website to see who wears “These,” said the saleswoman to strength of the market in contempo- was being asked for the painting standard of the art world, or col- wearing the results). I don’t know to tell you otherwise. All credit to Nothing satisfies quite like that what (www.jbrandjeans.com). Per- me proudly when I enquired about rary art (of which Warhol, as much two years ago. lapses like the subprime-mortgage

whether diplomacy is part of their Gap then for training their special- Armani logo on their back pocket. sonally, I always feel as though the high-legged, classic cut (£350), as Marcel Duchamp, might be seen Whether the current dominance market, it has become what Warhol The Richard Avedon Foundation training process, but my denim ex- ists to make the very first question The great thing about Armani, I’m wearing tights when I’m wear- “are for people whose ‘thing’ is as the fons et origo) seems, on this of Pop Art is followed by a similar prophesied and intended: the domi- Richard Avedon’s ‘Marilyn Monroe, actor, New York, May 6, 1957’ pert could probably give Tony Blair “what do you want the jeans for?” well, there are many great things ing J Brand (even their notorious, not jeans.” Perfect then. basis, as much of a puzzle to the un- shift to some new, or rediscovered, nant global consumer brand. Will it is estimated at €80,000-€120,000. initiated as the replacement of the genre or not, its current prices have be as enduring as Campbell’s Soup gold standard by the complex mach- some interesting implications. If or Coca-Cola? Time will tell. W16 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. W5 BOOKS FASHION A Spectered Isle Stylish men’s boots Twinkle, Twinkle, for work, rain and snow The English Ghost: Spectres Through Time BY CHERYL LU-LIEN TAN glued on, it’s more likely to come By Peter Ackroyd apart in adverse conditions. Giant Star (Chatto & Windus, 276 pages, £12.99) intry weekday weather The outside of the boot is made leaves men with a di- of a synthetic material that is de- lar eclipses have always inspired, possible to forecast,” he says, and BY TOBY LICHTIG W lemma: How can you pro- signed to look like good-quality Chasing the Sun and how an eclipse in 1919 led to the then is unable to resist adding: “Un- tect your feet from the elements leather. But when picking shoes By Richard Cohen acceptance of Einstein’s theory that til the sixteenth century, ‘weather’ Peter Ackroyd has made a name while still looking respectable for made of synthetic materials, Mr. (Simon & Schuster, 704 pages, £30) gravity bends the light from stars and ‘whether’ were interchangeable for himself digging out the ghosts the office? Pliner makes sure that the linings visible near an eclipsed sun. We find spellings.” Then he notes: “Or, as from England’s past. He is the coun- Shoe designer Donald J. Pliner are made of leather. “Your feet have BY ANN FINKBEINER out how the atom was discovered Joyce’s Leopold Bloom so charm- try’s bard of urban mythology, of lit- relies on a workhorse in his ward- to breathe,” he says. and then split, and how a bomb was ingly puts it, weather is ‘as uncertain erary archaeology, the weathered robe: a sleek, multifunctional boot. Mr. Pliner favors winter boots About 10 years ago, Richard Co- built based on atomic fusion, which as a child’s bottom.’ ” walkway and cultural palimpsest. In “If you’re going to work in a suit that close with zippers—and a hen was running a British publishing is the process that powers the sun. “Chasing the Sun” is sprinkled his latest book of non-fiction, Mr. and need to walk there in the cold, tongue beneath the zipper for extra house and trying to find someone to But Mr. Cohen—oddly enough, in throughout with such glittery de- Ackroyd turns his attention to spec- rain or snow, a boot that is dressy protection. “With laces, you have write a book he wanted to read, one a book protesting the sun’s decen- lights. The haloes of Christian saints, ters themselves: the manifold sight- enough for a suit is key,” he says. openings, and the water can come about the sun. He found no takers tralization—says little about the sun he says, began as little suns. The ings and frightenings recorded by the “You don’t need to be the man in through the holes,” he says. and so he took the job himself. After itself: How it drew itself together 16th-century Danish astronomer Ty- inhabitants of Albion over the past the suit sporting a pair of Uggs.” Boots aren’t the only answer. Mr. eight years and reporting trips to 18 from the detritus of four previous cho Brahe had two cousins who went 1,500 years. Not all boots will work with Pliner has all the winter shoes he countries on six continents—his wife generations of stars, how it’s layered to England in 1592 on a diplomatic This is an anthologist’s approach suits. They “need to flow well with buys coated with Scotchgard—a ser- would tell inquirers, “Oh, he’s out like an onion and melds gas and mission that had nothing to do with to history and the author leaves his a young girl violently vomits up the outfit, not have too much hard- vice that some shoe stores will do chasing the sun”—he had a 700-page light, how its heat struggles from the the sun or astronomy but, we learn own interventions to a minimum. In- stones and coals “till they came to ware on them, not be high enough for you. If not, you could do it at book with a point. The modern fusing core to reach us. Mr. Cohen with pleasure, as Shakespeare clearly stead, he lets the “evidence” weigh five hundred” (an occurrence pre- that they protrude through the home or take it to a cobbler, he world has decentralized the sun, Mr. confesses: “The main memory I have did, that their names were Frederik down upon the reader. Plundering a sumably not explained merely by pants,” Mr. Pliner says. notes. “Make sure you Scotchgard Cohen says in “Chasing the Sun”; of any scientific endeavor” in high Rosenkrantz and Knud Gyldensti- variety of sources from the Venerable poor diet). When shopping, he looks for the sole as well—many people don’t, science has reduced this glorious school was of a teacher climbing erne. Bede to contemporary newspaper Mr. Ackroyd’s compendium takes truly waterproof boots, rather than but that’s where you walk,” he says, miracle of a star to little more than through a window and frying an egg The book ends with people who clippings, he presents a compendium us through a pleasingly anachronistic “water-resistant” ones, which can noting that without a coating, the a dependable overhead light. “The on a copper pan with a Bunsen still honor the sun. Mr. Cohen, on of scratchings and bangings, knock- world of periwigs and nursery maids, repel water only up to a point. Mr. sole can get damp after a while. wonder has been stripped away,” he burner. “Some readers may wish that one of his many trips, goes to India ings and sawings, waftings, wander- snuffed candles and affrighted nuns. Pliner’s favorite waterproof boot, If Mr. Pliner’s shoes do get wet, writes. I had ventured deeper into solar as- in 2006 to visit Udaipur, about 250 ings and mysterious clobberings. But with the author’s intrusions which he owns in both black and he immediately tries to dry them At least that’s what Mr. Cohen tronomy,” he says, “but this book is miles south of New Delhi, for the “The English see more ghosts so infrequent, we are largely left to rust brown, is ankle-high and has a with paper towels. First, he runs a says his point is. I’m not sure that not a rainbow; it has to end some- Hindu festival of light. He meets than anyone else,” writes Mr. Ack- tease out themes for ourselves. Dogs grooved, inch-thick rubber sole that hair dryer over his shoes, both inside the book backs him up. I suspect where.” with a wealthy local leader, a maha- royd, which is a fascinating thesis un- seem more attuned to ghosts than offers good traction in slick condi- and out. “Not on the highest setting that he was just interested in the sun “Chasing the Sun” is less about rana, who has 14 solar-powered vehi- done only by the total lack of evi- cats do, and women appear more tions. or you might burn up the leather,” he and one thing led to another, the the sun, then, than about the sun’s cles for hire; who says his fam- dence. Granted, England may be than men. Multiple sightings are When choosing a weatherproof notes. Then, he’ll ball up newspaper way Richard Burton in the 17th cen- effect on the Earth and us earthlings. ily—which he traces back to 569—is “obsessed with the past” and littered common and there have been occa- shoe, Mr. Pliner says it’s important or small towels, place them inside tury set out to describe depression The sun’s ultraviolet light gives us “descended from the Sun” (Mr. Co- with its reminders, but this doesn’t sions of simultaneous viewing. Nor to see how slippery the sole is. “I each shoe, and set them out to dry and ended up writing “The Anatomy fashionable tans and skin cancer; it hen capitalizes the word through- necessarily distinguish it from a do ghosts only appear at night. The take the shoe and I slide it along a overnight. The next day, Mr. Pliner of Melancholy, What it is, With all cures seasonal affective disorder and out); and whose stationery, the au- score of other nations. And while the pubescent seem particularly vulnera- table,” he says, noting that he in- puts a new coat of polish on his the kinds, causes, symptomes, prog- thins the ozone layer. The sun sets thor notes, is “embossed with a Sun wealth of (subjective) data is seduc- ble to a good haunting. “It is nota- spects the sole to make sure that it boots to spiff them up, and they’re nostickes, and severall cures of it. In our clocks and calendars and maps. sporting a mighty, whirly mustache.” tive, some comparative history might ble,” writes Mr. Ackroyd, in a rare is stitched onto the shoe. If it’s just ready to face the elements again. three Partitions with their severall Sunspots—formed by cyclical surges The maharana tells him that the sun have been appreciated. What of the and welcome aside, “that poltergeist Sections, members, and subsections. in the sun’s magnetic field—increase is a god, a part of us, divine, and it paranormal chateaux, the ghastly activity is often associated with the Philosophically, Medicinally, Histori- the Earth’s exposure to radiation, af- “doesn’t so much bring us light as castello, the horridly haunted Haus? presence of young girls of 12 or 13 cally, opened and cut up.” fecting everything from the weather take away the darkness.” Mr. Ackroyd fares somewhat bet- years. Some were diagnosed with And so in this discursive and to satellites to telephone service. At Varanasi, an Indian holy city, ter when tackling psychology and et- hysteria.” readable firework of a book, we The sun, Mr. Cohen notes, has been the author watches a Hindu cere- ymology. He ascribes the English Most interesting, perhaps, are the learn—and are interested to do central to the myths of every culture, mony along the Ganges River, at- ghost obsession to the temperament people who claim to have seen so—that the sun was studied by though it’s a mystery why Daedalus tended by more than a thousand in of its people, caught between the ghosts. Dr. Johnson told a story of a primitive cultures because it allowed and his sun-struck son Icarus show boats and on the shore, where “phlegmatic and melancholy”; he friend (“not a credulous man”) who them to time their crops; by the an- up only in a footnote near the end. priests rang bells, blew on conch notes that there are “more than two confirmed the detection of “a shad- cient Chinese because it gave astrol- Gold, mirrors and blondes all have shells and chanted for peace in the hundred ways of describing the owy being.” William Wordsworth’s ogers political power with their rul- been regarded as precious for centu- world—a ceremony held in the dying ghosts of England,” before explaining nephew, Christopher, a fellow at Trin- ers; by early Islamic worshipers ries because they’re sun symbols. light of the setting sun. At that mo- the regional differences between the ity College, Oxford knew of some because it set the direction and hour The sun, of course, governs the ment, Mr. Cohen says, he felt the an- hobbit, the boggart, the dobby, the lodgings “repeatedly abandoned by of their prayers. great cycles in the air and in the cient connection with this star that wraith and the will o’ the wisp. We students on the plea that they were We also learn how Copernicus, oceans, and it might—or might holds over us life and death. And so learn that to “bug” someone means haunted.” In 1912, the Marquis of Kepler, Galileo, Newton and Herschel not—even play a major role in global it does: Without the sun, we’re just literally to “haunt” them and derives Huntington, while lodging with King by turns built the evidence-based warming. Mr. Cohen is agnostic on cold, starving naked mole rats who from an old Cornish/Welsh prefix, George V, wrote to Lord Halifax of a

picture of an orderly universe with the “climate change” front. “Whether won’t last a generation. which also gives us “bogeyman.” The phantom dressed in a hood and Splash News the Earth not at the center—the we should prepare ourselves for glo- Even if he doesn’t work much at “know” of something once signified gown: “The eyes were bright and the Katie Holmes in ‘The Deal’ jeans by J Brand. closest Mr. Cohen comes to explain- bal warming or for a new ice age in- backing his theory about the sun’s its spectral appearance. Much of the face might have been that of an old ing how science decentralized the directly caused by a hotter Earth or “decentralized” place in our lives, terminology has now fallen out of us- woman, but for the fact that there Coolhunter sun. We hear about the awe that so- by some other factor is almost im- Mr. Cohen is surely right. We mod- age. Who now knows of “freits” and was about a week’s growth of greyish ern Western folk—living with air “nickies,” “bolls” and “larrs,” “melch- stubble on the chin.” John Wesley conditioning and central heat, buy- dicks” and “clabbernappers”? published a long account of his fa- Remodelista.com ing food at markets, our watches and This is not, however, to suggest ther’s haunting and John Donne, cellphones telling us the time, GPS that the English have become any while away from his family in Paris, I worry about the fact that one of devices telling us where we less attentive to their phantasms. “It saw “a dreadful vision” of his wife, the founders of Remodelista.com used are—hardly need to think of the sun may be said that more people believe “her hair hanging about her shoul- to rent my house from me. Did she at all. The blame lies clearly, obvi- in ghosts today than at any other ders, and a dead child in her arms.” really grow so tired of my cranky ously with technology, the march of time,” writes the author, anecdotally. He later learned that she’d given boiler system, my inefficient storage progress, the temptations of conve- Recent manifestations include a vari- birth to a stillborn child at “about the methods, my stained marble floors nience and human laziness. ety of sightings on the A38 near same hour.” and my dog-eared carpets that she The blame does not lie with sci- Wellington involving a man in a rain- As for the author’s own credulity, and three other like-minded souls ence. For day-in, day-out sun wor- coat causing drivers to swerve off this is implicit but cleverly eschewed went out and set up the equivalent of ship, no one is more devoted than track. The A229 in Kent seems simi- (he does, after all, have a book to porn.com for women? those scientists known as astrono- larly troubled, this time by a young sell). “It remains, therefore, an in- On Remodelista, at any given time, mers. One of them routinely posts woman (killed in an accident in the triguing episode,” Mr. Ackroyd writes you can see fantasy furnishings, online photos of the sun accompa- mid-1960s) who has for decades been following an account of an apparent Swedish kitchens, American barns nied by long, clear and enchanted running into the road and rudely van- resurrection. “The mystery of the redux; find the perfect faucet, bar stool

explanations that begin with intro- ishing. scream itself remains,” he comments or refrigerator; and, best of all, you can Scott Frances ductions on the order of “Oh man Haunted trains also feature in the of a haunted street in Digbeth. And steal other peoples’ ideas or laugh Francesca’s home in Brooklyn Heights, New York ) 2

oh man, do I love this picture.” volume, as do hospitals, libraries, while this book may not make you be- derisively at what are (in your opinion) ( l a

Another astronomer-blogger bedrooms, baths, theatres, moors lieve in ghosts, it could just make you spectacular displays of bad taste. Four These women walk the walk—at Australia. It’s best to not click on the rn says of another photo of the sun: “I and, of course, churches and grave- wonder. After all, as that most en- women, Julie (my former tenant), least two of them do at any rate; you “Shop Categories” section; it will only eet Jou

could not stop looking at it.” In the yards. There are restless suicides and lightened of thinkers, Immanuel Kant, Janet, Sarah and Francesca set up can see Julie and Francesca’s homes depress you with its affordable, r St

photos, a granular sun erupts, baffling patches of darkness; wander- has opined: “While one can be skepti- Remodelista as what they describe as on their website. And very nice they stylish homeware that is so readily ll

Iveta Grazule swirls, blazes, and you might want ing hands, foul smells and self-play- cal about any individual instance, the an “online forum for friends” to share are too. My favorite section is “Steal available in America and so hard to to look at them. Worship is catching organs. In one incident, recorded sum total presents a body of evidence ideas, view well-designed products and This Look,” where you can peer at find over here. eWa rTh o ing. in the uncompromisingly titled 17th- that is difficult to ignore.” provide inspiration for makeovers and everything from Sarah Jessica’s Remodelista.com—think of it as f y nr

—Ms. Finkbeiner, who runs the century handbook “The Certainty of —Mr. Lichtig is a freelance writer, remodels from tiny bathrooms to vast outdoor shower in the Hamptons to a your new best friend minus the e

graduate program in science the World of Spirits,” a headless bear editor and producer. His criticism brownstones in Brooklyn. stainless-steel and green kitchen in emotional neediness. nH

Call them quaint or call them childish. What do I care? PJs are classic, comfy and sophisticated

BY STEVE GARBARINO

hen I was 6 (and 7, and 8), I wanted to be “Max,” the delin- quent hellion child from Maurice W > ) +) 8 . Sendak’s “Where the Wild Things Are.” )) $$$4 ) ) > ) ) What kid didn’t? In his white pajama-esque 3 0 ( )) 3 jumpsuit, with clawed footsies, horns and ) ? ; ( all, he ruled the monster kingdom. But the + 6. . . closest I came to a Max ensemble was a . . + ( 1 ( + pair of flannel Sears & Roebuck pajamas. In + :. . . + ! "# $$%& ( ( H ! ' PJs, I could rule the playground, or at least &$ . + ! my own little world. . = Since then, my affinity for pajamas has only increased. Like a grown-up Max, I found I was held unaccountable while 0 0 wearing my plastic-buttoned, draw-stringed $ $ ! 0 # $ $ ! 0 # ! "# uniform. Shake a tumbler! Snuggle a snow bunny! Spill a drink! “Who GIVES a pink elephant!” You’re in pajamas. Over the + ' + "* + ) ; 89 > ; ; ( . years, I’ve gone through quite a few sets, . . ) +) ( G + first Brooks Brothers, then a pair of + 9 + ( + + Crayola-striped Paul Smith’s in my late ) . ( 5 ' .9 )99 ' 20s—the nighttime equivalent of a Dino or () .. !F . + 3 Frank tux. But when I moved to Hollywood +. + ( ( ( . + . for a television pilot gig, I discovered my "# $$%$$ 1 )6 ! golden fleece: a pair of white cotton ! ) H pajamas from Tracey Ross, the now-defunct boutique in West Hollywood. Fitted and crisp (with my monogram on the chest 0 pocket) my TR’s proved the perfect pair for $ $$ ! "# $ ! "# ) ($ ! +8 both hanging by my faux-logged gas fireplace and sleeping, too. Then things got weird. While in my Lau- > ( ) & & ( ":= 91 rel Canyon rental, enduring a particularly () ' + long stretch of writer’s block (and the ) G "* () + J. + ) hangovers that come with it), I began to ) +9+ + ) , - 1 ( ? + ) ) 1 "

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! " # $ #% & '! (! # '! )! (! & (& (" ( W8 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. W13 FOOD HOMES The decline of European home cooking Families risk rearing a generation of ‘kitchen orphans’ who have never seen their mothers use the oven

BY ROSE PRINCE In a surprising twist, it has been reported that the French have in- nce they were upheld as the creased spending on McDonald’s at paragons of feminine genius such a rate (8.5% between 2008 and O in the kitchen, but all that re- 2010) that France is now the fast- mains now of Les Mères de food chain’s second biggest market. Lyon—the famous 20th-century Analyzing the decline across French mother cooks—are their these nations is mainly a matter of names. Mère Brazier may be written reading the figures for sales of con- above the door of the restaurant at venience and fast food, and collect- No. 12, Rue Royale in France’s second ing statistics that mark change in at- major city, but there’s a male chef in titude and trend. Market-research Eugenie Brazier’s former kitchen. firm Euromonitor carried out a com- Mère Lea’s stove at La Voûte (Chez prehensive study of changing habits Léa) is today tended by chef Philippe across Europe from 2000–2007. It Rabatel and the restaurants of those found that among large, less affluent equally renown priestesses, Mère populations in European countries, Paulette Castaing and Marie Bour- the take up of fast food and conve- geois, were long ago taken over by nience food is increasing. The re- male chefs, who work very differ- searcher’s latest figures this year for ently to their female forebears. sales of packaged food in the U.K., These bistros, or porte-pots as France, Italy, Denmark and Germany, they were known, originated as for example, show an average in- places where the Lyon white-collar crease of 15% in consumption. But work force could stop and eat per- there is a parallel story of a much fectly cooked, comforting, motherly smaller number of wealthier women food made from seasonal, often in- and men in the same countries be- expensive ingredients. Les Mères of- coming increasingly concerned about ten worked with only one assistant, their health, trying organic and cook- and their short menus and practical ing fresh foods from scratch. When techniques are in marked contrast this group buys convenience food, to the technique heavy “haute cui- they tend to buy the healthier, often sine” prepared by brigades of male natural or organic, option. chefs today. The cuisine of Les At the other end of the scale, for Mères is perfectly defined in “Sim- those that admire the traditional ple French Cooking,” a book by Coco peasant cultures in Europe and Jobard and the famous chef Georges travel there to sample handmade Blanc, the son of Mère Paulette specialities, the reliance on conve- Blanc. “Their reputations rested on nience food represents a poignant their mastery of cuisine bourgeoise, loss. This year in Calabria, a forgot- home cooking raised to a higher ten region of Italy compared to Tus- level by the application of passion cany, the Veneto or Lombardy, I pic- and perfectionism,” Jobard wrote. nicked with a family of artisan The Lyon portes-pots served what salami producers on the mountain- was essentially a substitute for a ous, fertile Sila plain. Docile, gray- home-cooked meal, yet it was cooked white Podolica cattle grazed nearby by some of the greatest talents in and the potato harvest was in full French cuisine. The Michelin Guide swing in an adjoining field. Marco proach isn’t for everyone, however. rained stars on their modest estab- Paese of Salumeria San Vincenzo The sky-high charges are putting off How they stack up lishments. In 1937, Mère Bourgeois maintained that the mothers and some buyers, while others point to a died at her range. Her death coin- grandmothers in his region are still lack of privacy. Oliver Hooper, direc- One Hyde Park cides with, rather than heralds, the devoted to preparing dinner from tor of London-based luxury buying Knightsbridge, London decline in French home cook- fresh ingredients, but that when consultancy Huntly Hooper, says Price: £70,000 per square meter ing—specifically the nurturing, bour- traveling elsewhere in more devel- some of his clients had decided Service charge: £150 per square geois home cooking for which French oped parts of Italy, he sees a differ- against portered properties because meter annually

women have always been admired. ent picture. “With more women go- Getty Images they felt the ubiquitous concierge What you get: An 18-seater private Its demise joins a trend that has af- ing out to work, or well-educated Actress Sophia Loren prepares a dish from her native Italy, circa 1965. and management could feel invasive. cinema, a 100-person private party fected all major European nations as young couples leaving rural areas to “If you don’t want to feel as suite, a fully equipped gym, their societies and economic struc- take up office work in the cities, pean society in the past 40 or 50 role reversal that fits with the emi- housework, but families risk rearing though you are living in a hotel, treatment rooms, squash courts and Above, clockwise from bottom left, NBA star Tony Parker with Nicolas Garnier, CEO of Swiss Development Group tures changed post World War II. they are demanding more food that years is very significant. Exercising nence of chefs in the media and a generation of “kitchen orphans,” these developments may not be for a golf and tennis simulator. Also SA, minutes after signing the contract for purchase of an apartment at the Du Parc Kempinski Private Residences; a Germain Marquis, a French-born is ready made,” he says. their right to equality in the work- heading up kitchens in the world’s men and women who have never wit- you. Some of our extremely wealthy includes household services, parking rendering of a split-level penthouse at CityLife in Milan; the Knightsbridge development of One Hyde Park; the formal chef who trained at the two-Mi- The current retail value of pack- place raises the family income and “best restaurants.” nessed their parents cooking. There clients viewed these properties but and valet, and room service. reception room at One Hyde Park; a rendering of the Victorian facade to the Lancasters, restored to its former glory. chelin-starred Au Trou Gascon in aged food in Italy is €6.61 billion, ac- the hard-pressed career woman re- Chef patron and working mother is no substitute for this; no popular decided against them on the Mandarin Oriental staff manage Paris before taking his acclaimed cording to Euromonitor. This figure lies more on prepared food or eating Sally Clarke of Clarke’s in London, TV chef can replace the effectiveness grounds they can hand-pick their security, concierge and spa services. bourgeois cooking to South Africa is close to that in the U.K., though out when it comes to feeding her imprints her menu with provincial of the conversation about the right own staff for half the price,” he and now to Britain, says the postwar packed foods like dried pasta and family. Mr. Marquis, the chef, be- Southern European cookery, similar way to prepare a dish between says, adding he recently found a cli- The Lancasters role changes for women brought canned tomatoes have always formed lieves that aspirational tastes have to Les Mères. She is also highly in- mother and daughter, or indeed fa- ent a £10 million five-bedroom Bayswater, London about the end of Les Mères. “They a major part of the Italian diet. put good traditional home cooking fluenced by Berkeley, Calif., food ther and son. The talented Les Mères apartment in the Belgravia district Price: £32,000 per square meter worked too hard, you see,” says Mr. There is evidence that pre-prepared lower on the agenda in upwardly mo- revolutionary Alice Waters. “I be- gave up their kitchens to male chefs of central London, and in place of Service charge: £85 per square Marquis. “After the war and the food is changing in Italy, however. lieve we benefit from the unique and their brigades of helpers, worn the service charge, the buyer em- meter annually p emancipation of women in France, When touring the giant Buitoni fac- kitchen skills of each gender, but down by an unequal society that ployed a personal housekeeper, What you get: 24-hour concierge this was not acceptable. Restaurants cook and driver. with housekeeping, personal tory in Umbria a decade ago, curious there is a surge of interest in men gave them too much work and little ment Grou

Each year a wealth of p are now run by brigades of men.” Mr. to see the mass production of the cooking, using the simple, honest assistance, as did millions of stay-at- The potential for devaluation shopping and catering on demand. Marquis, whose restaurant Le Clos many shapes of traditional dried quick and easy recipes are style of the female cooks of past home mothers throughout Europe. In could be another downside. As many Comes with a private landscaped Du Marquis in England’s Hampshire pasta asciutta, the company was published. But home generations, “ she says. a culture where gender roles are zero-maintenance developments are garden, a central monitoring Swiss Develo countryside is a haven of that practi- keener that I should see and taste its Controversially, there is the accu- more evenly balanced, there is a a new concept, the resale value security system, valet parking and a ; cal and perfect food, says when they new ranges of pasta sauces and oven cooking continues to wane. sation that liberated women (who chance to revive the heroic, nurtur- hasn’t yet been tested. fully equipped gym, pool and spa. left their restaurant kitchens, the ready-pizza. “This is the future,” in- gave up cooking) inadvertently gen- ing motherly food of each nation. It But for those who do buy into women took a great deal with them. sisted my guide from the company. erated a modern irresponsible food isn’t just a sociological need, but an the idea of zero-maintenance, the Du Parc Kempinski Private Residences The Lancasters “It was the end of simplicity in In every European country, fami- bile European families. “In my youth, industry. The women that chose not economic one. Mr. Marquis, whose maintenance and service costs and ); 2 French cooking,” he says. lies—especially women—complain we had one car and ate very well on to follow their mother and grand- life’s work has been to emulate this, questionable resale values may be Vaud, Switzerland ( At home in France, away from they simply don’t have the time. TV a budget supported only by my fa- mother’s career, left the door open. says a return to these basics is politi- worth it, according to Roarie Scaris- Price: About 31,000 Swiss francs the restaurants, there were stirrings cookery shows fill broadcasters’ ther’s salary,” he says. “Now every- Had the food companies created a cally necessary. “In the past there brick at HSBC-owned property buyer (£20,000) per square meter of the same liberation for house- schedules and charismatic chefs en- one wants three cars, Apple technol- healthy surrogate for all and not just were economic reasons for women Property Vision. Service charge: 155 francs per Julian Abrams wives, especially for those forging tertain. Each year a wealth of quick ogy and long-haul holidays, so both wealthy society—we might not have getting out of the kitchen; now there “For the seriously wealthy, the square meter annually /

What you get: Givenchy spa, PGGL careers outside the home. Home and easy recipes are published. But parents must work. Food becomes the fast-food industry and ensuing is an economic reason for their sim- convenience of having a 24-hour ;

cooking is in decline in Southern home cooking continues to wane. less significant,” he adds. health problems, such as rising obe- ple, perfectionist cooking to be re- concierge making your property Davidoff Cigar Lounge, 16-seater Life y

Europe as it is in the northern and You cannot pin the demise of There is the added dynamic that sity. It is important to note that no stored. This is the culture that is the ownership zero maintenance is just cinema, 24-hour Quintessentially Cit Nordic countries, yet in each there perfect. The price is irrelevant,” Mr. concierge membership and , home cooking in European countries women are sometime sole bread- feminist would have intended such envy of the world.” left are variables in the style of change. on a single issue. The loss of struc- winners. Their male partners can an outcome, and that other environ- Rose Prince is the author of Scarisbrick says, adding that “the membership to the Mirador Country p It is happening faster in certain tured mealtimes can be put down to enthusiastically take up the home- mental and economical factors have “Kitchenella. The secrets of women; impeccably tail-coated porter tip- Club. Apartments managed by countries—such as the U.K., where a number of causes including urban- cooking role. Male keenness for contributed to the problem. heroic, simple, nurturing cookery - ping his cap as you arrive at your Kempinski hotel. total industrialization was complete ization and smaller households, but cookery remains in the margin of It is not that women in Europe for everyone” (September 2010, home is partly the selling point of —Tara Loader Wilkinson

in the 19th century—than others. the changing role of women in Euro- wealthier families, but there is a need leave their jobs and go back to Fourth Estate) this type of property.” Clockwise from to W12 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. W9 HOMES FOOD WINE A question of taste

real, doubt began to take over. [ Wine ] On the first wine I’m outvoted and the team agrees it’s actually a BY WILL LYONS Chenin Blanc. So when it comes up as a Sauvignon Blanc, they look So what can go to me as their new leader. If he wrong? I’m sitting was right on the grape variety, he high up in the Ca- must know what he’s talking nary Wharf offices about. But I’m beginning to think of a well-known it’s not a Sancerre after all but ac- London bank, sur- tually, by a certain bitterness on rounded by teams the palate, from South Africa. I’m made up of alumni of the some of wrong; it is a Sancerre and on we the most prestigious and feared go, like we started, punching in business schools in the Western wrong answer after wrong answer. world. Cass, Harvard, INSEAD, So the Riesling is from Chile’s London Business School, Wharton Maipo. What? I guessed the right —you get the picture. And we’re country, but Maipo? That’s one of blind wine-tasting, competing for their warmest regions and was the top prize in an annual inter- the only one I loudly proclaimed it business-school charity event. wasn’t. It threw us way off course I’ve been invited along to ob- as we began to think counterintui- serve proceedings but am eager to tively. So the white Burgundy get involved, so I’m thrown in on couldn’t be from Burgundy. “Cali- the host table, which, compared fornia,” I say. “They’re trying to

Jean Cazals for The Wall Street Journal with the others, is made up of vir- trick us.” Only they weren’t. California cuisine godfather Jeremiah Tower at Portobello Market in London’s Notting Hill. tual novices. And they’re looking Wrong again. And so it went on. to me, as the “expert,” to help By half time, we’re near the bot- them out. Oh, and if that weren’t tom and it’s not looking good. In enough, did I mention Jancis Rob- fact, it’s looking far from good. Reflections of a towering legend inson is chairing the event? “Why It’s embarrassing. do I put myself in these situa- “OK,” I say. “Let’s go with our tions?” I ask myself as I sit down instincts. So far the wines have sonality for business. It was ex- bibliography of the West’s great- and give the first four white wines been pretty straightforward [ Food ] hausting and boring, and I really est cookbooks, ranging from 16th- a preliminary sniff. choices. Whatever I say first, hated it. I am much more at home century English reference books Actually, I’m pretty experienced punch in as the answer.” First up is BY BRUCE PALLING with my feet in the sand on a to Cecil Beaton’s history of table when it comes to blind tasting. As a red wine from New Zealand. A tropical beach.” Rather anticlimac- design. Sadly, nearly all of his an undergraduate at Edinburgh 2008 Pinot Noir from the Central

CityLife The last I heard tically, there followed some res- thousand-strong cookbook library University, I helped inaugurate the Otago region—specifically, the Two A computer-generated rendering of a view of the balconies at CityLife’s luxury residences in Milan. about Jeremiah taurant openings in Manila and was destroyed by Hurricane Ka- annual competition between Edin- Paddocks vineyard, owned by actor Tower, the godfa- Singapore and the penning of a trina in New Orleans, which was burgh and St. Andrews universi- Sam Neill. We guess right: variety, ther of California memoir, “California Dish,” which when he decided to live in Mexico. ties. Not that it has helped my country, island and region. We cuisine, was that exposes in lurid detail the drama His peripatetic lifestyle is about form. Edinburgh lost that day, miss the vintage by a year. Ditto he had retired to and excess of those earlier years. to relocate him from Mérida to Ba- pipped at the post on the last port. the second wine. We’re on a roll. Mérida in Mexico, I met Mr. Tower on a recent silicata in Puglia, southern Italy. But I’m proud to say that, since Next up is the Claret: Chateau Living in the lap of luxury where he was busy restoring colo- Saturday at Portobello Market in “It’s the only place left in Italy that then, my alma mater has won an Doyac 2006 Haut Medoc. Merlot, nial houses when he wasn’t scuba Notting Hill. The Connecticut na- is still affordable and doesn’t have impressive string of victories. yes; France, yes; Bordeaux, yes; diving off the Yucatan Peninsula. tive has maintained his trim, raff- summer houses for the rich and Identifying the grape, country 2006, yes. This is it; we’re climbing But when I discovered that he was ish looks, belying decades of devo- the English.” He also professes that of origin, region, village and vin- up the table. But I’m not celebrat- Zero-maintenance apartments offer full services leaving you feeling like a VIP at home on a trip to London to celebrate tion to great food and Burgundies, he cannot bear the lack of interest- tage from the look, smell and ing. I rather agree with the philos- his 68th birthday with a number not to mention numerous vintages ing ingredients where he now lives. taste of a glass of wine is hard. opher Roger Scruton, who argues BY TARA LOADER WILKINSON ing beyond simply creating a prop- apartments in the 1850s stucco- Across the lake from the Lancast- Tower—the city’s tallest build- of old friends in a handful of the of Chateau d’Yquem and Dom “I need to be in a place with local Anyone who tells you otherwise that to taste wine blind assumes erty to creating an environment fronted building have been sold. ers, One Hyde Park, a development ing—has sold nearly half of its 53 greatest restaurants in Europe, I Pérignon. Mr. Tower now can al- markets where you can walk in and should immediately be challenged wine is addressed solely to the magine if your apartment made where owners can enjoy their highly Prices exceed £30,000 per square managed by U.K. developers the luxury apartments, which are priced took the opportunity to sit down most reflect dispassionately on his never know what’s going to be to a blind tasting. The more you senses and that knowledge plays you feel like a VIP. Walk in and individual lifestyles.” meter—triple the street average, ac- Candy Brothers in conjunction with at as much as 7.6 million francs. The with the iconic American chef. there.” This chimes with his life- know, the harder it gets, as uncer- no part in its appreciation. As he I your freshly laundered clothes Designer BBG-BBGM—of the W cording to agents—with apartments the Mandarin Oriental hotel, has lower floor is taken up by five-star Mr. Tower shot to prominence long belief in the value of sponta- tainty creeps in and clouds your says in “I Drink Therefore I Am,” are neatly stacked in your drawers. Hotels brand—designed the interi- for £20 million at the top end. done just this. The Knightsbridge luxury hotel the Renaissance Zurich in the mid-’70s, when his inspired ‘Never ever read the good neity and local traditions for the judgment. Which is what hap- “To think you can judge a wine Your fridge is stocked with your fa- ors, while the private spa is by American businessman Joseph property made headlines this sum- Tower Hotel, which provides 24- cooking at Chez Panisse virtually best cooking. He bemoans the cur- pened with the white from its taste and aroma alone is vorite delicacies and a bubble bath Givenchy. The wine cellars and tast- Shields has just bought a two-bed- mer when a six-bedroom penthouse hour room service. created the concept of California reviews, just the bad ones, rent similarity of haute cuisine wines—spectacularly so. like thinking you can judge a Chi- is waiting for you—at precisely the ing room are managed by Quintes- room apartment in the Lancasters. reportedly sold for £140 million—a Meanwhile in Italy, a consortium cuisine, with its emphasis on ul- because you can learn and throughout the world and believes “That’s a Sancerre, that’s a nese poem by its sound, without perfect temperature. sentially Wine. He said the ultra-high spec com- record for an apartment in London. of developers is constructing CityLife tra-fresh ingredients and Proven- it is time that chefs turned back Riesling, some sort of white Bur- knowing the language.” A new breed of ultra-luxury zero- This sort of effortless luxury bined with the security of the in- The owners have access to 24- in Milan—three luxury residential çal-style simplicity. This latter correct things from them.’ from intricate and fiddly flourishes gundy, and, in all probability, a Back at the competition, the maintenance developments in Europe comes at a premium. Although Mr. house concierge sealed the deal. hour room service from the neigh- and commercial blocks by acclaimed characteristic was the bailiwick of on the plate and focus on the qual- Sauternes,” I tell my neighbor after reds have saved us and we finish is turning this fantasy into reality. Parker declined to say how much his “The Lancasters gives us all of the boring Mandarin Oriental, and secu- designers Zaha Hadid and Daniel Chez Panisse founder Alice Wa- ity of the ingredients. making my way round the table. At in the top half of the tables, Residents enjoy a five-star hotel ex- apartment cost, prices at Du Parc luxury facilities and amenities we rity-guard protection. Prices at One Libeskind. The project, which is ex- ters, while Mr. Tower, a Harvard- topsy-turvy career and appeared What guidance would he offer which point, with hindsight, it which we agree is a perfectly ac- perience—with 24-hour concierge, range between 4.7 million Swiss need to maximize the productivity Hyde Park start at £20 million and pected to be finished by 2015, will educated architect and self- to embrace with enthusiasm my a budding chef today? He doesn’t would have been helpful if we had ceptable finish. And given that we cleaning and laundry, and in-house francs (€3.5 million) for a two-bed- and comfort of our London visits. construction is due to be completed comprise 1,300 top-end apartments trained chef, was more at home description of him as the Orson believe it is necessary to get a agreed to leave it at that. For as were the host table, it would have spas—included in the asking price. room apartment to 24 million francs And you don’t need to worry about next month, with around two-thirds with an in-house concierge and 24- with extraordinary set dinners in- Welles of the food world. “Oh ab- grounding in classic French cui- soon as the competition started for seemed rude to win. “Being at home feels like living in for a penthouse. of the apartments already sold. hour security, with prices ranging up spired by the great French chefs. solutely—what a wonderful idea! sine. “It is more important to un- a James Bond movie,” says Tony It is Switzerland’s most expen- The desire for a trouble-free life to €7 million. “Tower had flair, which he Far better than the previous de- derstand ‘Cuisine Grand-Mère,’ Parker, an NBA San Antonio Spurs sive property per square meter, ac- ‘With zero-maintenance, is behind the high levels of demand, In Berlin, Hamburg and Istanbul, brought every night he was at the scription of me as an Edwardian but no one has a grandmother basketball star. Last month, he cording to agents, and it joins the experts say. “Luxury consumers want Philippe Starck, the designer and co- stoves. There was a wonderful dy- Francophile. I have always been that cooks any more. It really Drinking Now bought one of the new apartments growing ranks of ultra high-spec smart luxury brands are less stuff, hassle, problems, compli- founder of design firm yoo, is rolling namic tension between him and very impulsive; fortunately, I have doesn’t matter if it is in France, in the Du Parc Kempinski Private zero-maintenance properties, luring giving their consumers cations, not more things to think out a number of luxury develop- Alice, as she kept him a little made 1% more good decisions Britain, Italy or Australia, the im- Residences development, at the top Europe’s super-rich and super-busy. about at the end of the day,” says ments, due to be completed next earthbound, while he made the than bad ones. I was also caught portant thing is that it must be Two Paddocks Pinot Noir of Mont-Pèlerin overlooking Lake “The international super-wealthy the most clichéd and James Wallman, editor of LS:N Glo- year. Properties cost around €3 mil- restaurant soar in a way that I up in the idea that if you can do regional cooking grounded in the Geneva. are cash rich and time poor. They valued commodity of all: bal, a lifestyle-trend forecaster. “This lion. “The private dining pavilion, don’t think that it has since,” says one restaurant well enough and use of the very best local ingredi- Central Otago, New Zealand “With one touch you can manage are snapping up this sort of develop- is why they want hospitality brands lounge and library inspire a sense of Tom McNamee, author of the au- make a lot of money, you should ents. Get that and you will under- everything: music, temperature, se- ment,” says Charles Weston-Baker, time’—James Wallman they trust, like the Mandarin Orien- a calm oasis in the midst of a thorized biography of Chez Pa- do another one, which is a very stand about flavor.” The other vi- Vintage: 2008 curity and concierge services. You head of estate agent Savills Interna- tal or Kempinski, to manage their crowded city,” Mr. Stark says. “The nisse. But it couldn’t last. “Ulti- bad idea unless you have a man- tal ingredient, according to Mr. can even fill the bath remotely using tional. “They may only spend a few homes. With zero-maintenance, gym and spa allow residents a mately, he was like the classic ager or partner behind you. I Tower, is culinary benchmarks. Price: about £20 or €23 your mobile phone. The 24-hour weeks of the year there, and don’t security if you are away for several smart luxury brands are giving their chance to relax from the hustle and mad genius that just spun out of didn’t have that person because I “Even if you can only afford a sin- concierge takes care of cleaning, want to spend their weekends sort- months,” he says, adding that buying consumers the most clichéd and val- bustle of city living.” control.” After one tempestuous could never find anybody who gle dish at the best restaurant, it Alcohol content: 13.5% laundry, even restocking the wine ing out cleaners or babysitters, or a property in London has been the ued commodity of all: time.” Maintenance and service charges row too many, Mr. Tower departed wanted to take that many risks.” is important so you understand cellar,” he says. locating the nearest beauty salon,” lynchpin to his property portfolio, Elsewhere in Europe, the zero- are invariably high. In today’s strait- and in 1984, started his own es- Despite his natural hedonism, what the pinnacles of food are Most of the blind tasters placed this wine in Bur- Mr. Parker’s apartment is the he added. which includes luxury properties in maintenance bug is catching. ened times, the prospect of paying tablishment in San Francisco Mr. Tower has the knowledge of a and then have a reference point.” gundy, which is certainly a credit to Sam Neill’s wine- brainchild of Swiss Development At the Lancasters development of Asia, Europe and the U.S. In Verbier, Switzerland, Cordée more than £150 per square called Stars, which dominated the scholar when it comes to classic And what about the constant making team. We guessed correctly, first time, that it Group SA, a developer which two 77 brand new apartments in a Grade Some developers are achieving des Alpes is a former hotel redevel- meter—the cost of annual mainte- social and food scene there for a French cuisine. If you mention, media attention? “Never ever read was from Central Otago. This may have been because years ago partnered with luxury ho- II-listed former hotel to the north of zero-maintenance by partnering with opment with apartments command- nance and services at One Hyde decade and a half. Hardly a week say, a signature dish of the leg- the good reviews, just the bad we had a New Zealander on our team, but also the tel chain Kempinski to create a con- London’s Hyde Park, residents have hotels. James Price, a partner in the ing prices of as much as 8.2 million Park—may seem hard to justify. Ser- passed without a photograph of endary Paul Bocuse, such as his ones, because you can learn and nose was ripe, with distinctive black cherry and spice cept called “haute-couture living.” access to a spa and beauty center, international team at estate agent francs. Owners enjoy access to all vice and concierge charges at the Mr. Tower sitting next to celebri- soupe aux truffes, Mr. Tower will correct things from them. When I aromas—an immediate giveaway. The wine is a blend Nicolas Garnier, chief executive swimming pool and gym. A 24-hour Knight Frank, says that the concept the facilities and services in the lux- Lancasters work out to be £80,000 ties like Sophia Loren or Barbra effortlessly trace its inspiration read all the accolades, that is from three vineyards: Gibbston, Alexandra and Red- of Swiss Development Group, says, concierge caters to their every whim. has its roots in top-end resort hotels. ury hotel complex, including the per annum for the largest apart- Streisand—even the Archbishop of back via the great Fernand Point when I started to make mistakes; I bank, and although some Central Otago Pinots can be “Our properties are like haute cou- Entry is via a grand carriage en- “Luxury hotels realized they could in- wellness spa, a 14-meter swimming ment, while these fees at Du Parc Canterbury. Now he says that was and then to the dishes created by believed I could do anything I a little too fruity for my taste, the palate here is quite ture, exclusive and high quality, with trance, with valet parking serving crease their brand potential by col- pool, fitness rooms, concierge, busi- come to around £100 per square all a PR charade. “That Jeremiah Alexandre Dumaine for the Aga liked, rather than merely things silky and fine. Taking into account that Two Paddocks high attention to detail and finish. the underground car park. laborating with developers to create ness center, conference room, laun- meter annually, including the five- Tower was a fabrication of a per- Khan. His memoir has a 30-page that would work.” only began in 1993, when five acres of vineyards were

We’re taking a fresh look at the Although it will not be habitable bolt-on private residences, serviced dry, restaurant and bar. star hotel services. planted, the future appears very promising indeed. Haynes Hanson & Clark scope and depth of luxury living, go- until 2011, more than half of the by the hotel.” In Zurich, the iconic Mobimo The beck-and-call service ap- W10 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. W11 TRAVEL TRAVEL

Clockwise, from left page, Bonn’s skyline; Pure Gold bar at Hotel Kameha Grand Bonn; August Macke’s ‘Tegernseer Landschaft’ (1910) on show at Kunstmuseum Bonn; Frank O. Gehry buildings in Düsseldorf; and a colorful street carnival in Germany.

Harald Wagener A resilient and renovated Bonn

The former West German capital steps out from its Cold War shadow, emerging as a cultural hub Clockwise from top left, Kameha Grand Bonn; Kunstmuseum Bonn; Alamy (2)

BY J. S. MARCUS press the reset button again, emerg- a village just outside of town. For portant collection of postwar Ger- chancellor didn’t live in a “historical shows dealing with everything from pation, division and reunification. A sands of Bonners joining in. ing as one of Germany’s newest, and most of his postwar career, he was man art; and the Haus der Ge- building” but one that amounted to archaeology to contemporary art. brainchild of the end of the Cold Bonn now has some 300,000 resi- A tale of two cities nown for its idyllic setting most prosperous, cultural capitals. also a local Bundestag deputy and schichte (House of History), the a “declaration of modernity.” “We have huge exhibition rooms,” War, the museum didn’t open until dents, and is closely connected to and laid-back lifestyle, the “We call them yuppies,” says An- was the driving force behind in- country’s pre-eminent museum of The Kanzlerbungalow, the chan- says Ms. Francke, who is putting the 1994, when the organizers were Cologne, which you can reach by The Rhine River has given Germany famous painter; Düsseldorf has K western German city of Bonn gelica Francke, exhibition manager of stalling the new country’s political contemporary German history. cellors’ official residence from finishing touches on a large exhibi- compelled to tell recent German his- streetcar as well as commuter train. two great cities—Cologne and Andreas Gursky, Germany’s most has had a dramatic ride in recent the Bundeskunsthalle, the city’s pre- center within easy reach of his own The three museums, within walk- 1964–99, was “an enormous step tion about Napoleon. “And we have tory from the new perspective of a But it can have a serene, rustic feel, Düsseldorf. And those two cities famous photographer. Cologne has a years. Elevated from a sleepy col- mier exhibition space, speaking Rhöndorf house and Cologne, some ing distance of each other, are the forward,” says Mr. Nerdinger, in enough money to mount shows that single German state. due in large part to the way it strad- have given Germany its great urban great new building by Pritzker-Prize lege campus to West Germany’s cap- about the young executives—or 30 kilometers away. centerpieces of Bonn’s so-called Mu- making architectural modernism ac- other museums can’t.” “Napoleon The permanent collection— dles the Rhine without overdevelop- rivalry. Separated by 40 kilometers winner Peter Zumthor; Düsseldorf ital in the decade after World War “managers of tomorrow,” as she calls However, Bonn arguably owes its seum Mile, but perhaps the best ceptable in a country which, before and Europe: Dream and Trauma,” which begins with a pre-World War ing the actual riverfront. “The bril- and a winding stretch of river, the likes to show off its buildings by II, the town, once a symbol of time- them—who have taken the place of current resilience to Helmut Kohl, place to start a visit these days is the rise of Nazism, had been home which runs from Dec. 17 to April 25, II train carriage later used by West liant thing about Bonn is the River two cities have stayed resolutely Pritzker winner Frank Gehry. In some less German provincialism, became diplomats in the city’s psyche. Mr. Kohl’s former residence, the to the Bauhaus movement. aims to dramatize both the positive German leaders and ends with the Rhine,” says Mr. Berg, who admits separate while seeming to share the categories, one clearly is ahead of an international hub, home to diplo- Nothing symbolizes the city’s lat- Kanzlerbungalow, West Germany’s Now renovated to selectively and the negative impact of Napo- morning’s news headlines—manages that one of his favorite local pas- same habits and preoccupations. the other. Both celebrate Carnival on mats, bureaucrats and, it was gener- est incarnation better than the A decade after losing its version of the White House. A high- emphasize certain periods in its leon, says Ms. Francke. In 2012, the to convey an epic sense of postwar times since moving here is going for Both are art loving and beer loving, the Monday before Lent, but ally assumed, an A-list cast of Cold Kameha Grand Bonn, a new luxury modernist masterpiece designed in own history, the building demon- exhibition, which was initiated by German life. Using a variety of regular swims in the river. “The wa- and both are centers of Catholicism. Cologne’s party is larger and better War spies. hotel built right on the river, with official political status, the early 1960s by German architect strates the taste of Erhard, who the Bundeskunsthalle, will travel to styles and techniques, recalling ev- ter quality is really good now,” he It would be easy to imagine them known. Both have excellent With the collapse of communism an outrageous neo-baroque interior Bonn has managed to Sep Ruf, the building opened up to was fond of modernist furniture as Paris’s Musée de l’Armée in Les In- erything from a science museum to says. “And as long as you stay on the growing together, like Manhattan shopping, but only Düsseldorf has in 1989 and the official move of re- by Dutch design superstar Marcel public tours last year after an exten- well as architecture, and of Mr. valides, where Napoleon is buried. a theme park, the museum aspires beaches,” which help to keep swim- and Brooklyn, or waging war, like the Königsallee, Germany’s center for unified Germany’s capital to Berlin, Wanders. At lunchtime, you can find press the reset button. sive renovation. Kohl, who brought with him a now- Bonn “has a museum landscape “to make the themes of history un- mers clear of dangerous currents and Florence and Pisa. Visitors to the high fashion and high prices. Bonn seemed poised to lose its pres- Ms. Francke’s yuppies eating on the Ruf “was one of the most impor- unfashionable array of ’80s alterna- that is far bigger and more prosper- derstandable,” says Jürgen Reiche, boat traffic, “it’s all right.” region eagerly go back and forth, but tige, left with little but a location on terrace, chatting into cellphones as tant postwar German architects,” tions, including what could be ous than other cities,” says Stephan director of exhibitions since the mu- Many longstanding Bonn resi- locals tend to stay at home. Reduced, but not gone the Rhine River, a stable of students they gaze out over the Rhine. Since the Federal Republic’s longest-serv- says Winfried Nerdinger, director of called anti-modernist wallpaper. Berg, the director of the Kunstmu- seum’s early days. Next month, the dents like Ms. Francke still miss In the western reaches of a unified and a heady case of nostalgia. opening to the general public in ing chancellor. In the 1980s, with the Architecture Museum of the Visits must be arranged through seum Bonn. Mr. Berg, who arrived in museum will open a special exhibi- Bonn’s previous incarnation, when The same difference country, in the heart of a unifying The spies and the limousines February 2010, the hotel, Germany’s the two separate German states in Technical University in Munich. the Haus der Geschichte. 2008 from Hannover’s Kunstverein, tion about the role of humor in Ger- the historic center’s narrow lanes Cologne has Kölsch, a light frothy continent, the cities may seem to be may have moved on, but the former leading example of eco-inspired lux- what seemed like permanent dis- Commissioned by Ludwig Erhard, Fanciful postmodernist architec- has a special interest in contempo- man life, including material on post- were filled with embassy staff speak- beer drunk out of special small coming closer together. “The rivalry capital is in many ways doing better ury, has racked up a number of ac- unity, Mr. Kohl hoped to make Bonn the economics minister under Ad- ture of the 1980s marks both the rary artists. The museum, he says, is war political cabaret and Bonn’s ing “the world’s languages.” These glasses; Düsseldorf has Alt, a dark is a little reduced,” says Monika than its successor. Now home to two colades, including being named one a cultural showpiece. Over the fol- enauer and then his successor as Bundeskunsthalle and the Kunstmu- now “trying to do much more with traditional carnival celebrations. days, you are more likely to hear frothy beer drunk out of special Sprüth, a Cologne resident and Mr. of the country’s larger employers, of the year’s best new business ho- lowing decade, he helped initiate chancellor, the Kanzlerbungalow is seum buildings, which surround a media-based art.” This week, the Bonn’s recent makeover extends Telekom executives speaking English small glasses. Cologne has the Gurksy’s art dealer. Reduced perhaps, Deutsche Telekom and Deutsche tels by Wallpaper magazine. the construction of three major mu- an austere steel-and-glass pavilion piazza, the Museumsplatz, where museum opened Germany’s first ma- to Carnival, which officially began at with a German accent, but the Museum Ludwig, one of Germany’s but not gone. It only takes a few Post, Bonn has a lower unemploy- Bonn owed its status as West seums, which now serve as the cen- that stands in stark contrast to concerts are held in the summer and jor exhibition devoted to the work of 11 minutes after 11 on Nov. 11, when pre-1989 sophistication lives on in two leading museums of modern questions to get Ms. Sprüth to ment rate and a higher standard of Germany’s capital to the country’s ter of Bonn’s artistic scene: the other public buildings of the time, ice-skating goes on in winter. American photographer Mitch Ep- the city was introduced to this sea- other guises. and contemporary art; Düsseldorf restart it. “Cologne is a city that is living than Berlin. And, with a clus- first chancellor, Konrad Adenauer Bundeskunsthalle, which offers a which still aspired to Bavarian In the past few years, the stein, a pioneer of socially critical son’s Carnival “royalty,” a select Bonn “still shows the old dream has the Kunstsammlung Nordrhein- 2,000 years old,” she says, when ter of thriving first-class museums, (1876–1967). Cologne’s long-time broad range of temporary exhibi- charm or Prussian pomp. Bundeskunsthalle, still enriched di- color photography (through Jan. 23). group of locals who preside over the of Konrad Adenauer,” says Mr. Berg, Westfalen, Germany’s other leading asked to compare the two. “It was it can compete with many of its mayor, Adenauer had studied at tions; the Kunstmuseum Bonn, the The residence, says Mr. Nerd- rectly with money from Germany’s Bonn’s most popular museum re- season’s costumed festivities. Until when asked to compare Bonn’s cul- museum of modern and important in Roman times and eastern rival’s artistic offerings. A Bonn’s university and, after the rise city’s art museum, with a unique inger, “was something special.” Un- national budget, has established it- mains the Haus der Geschichte, a this past decade, the ceremony was tural offerings with other German contemporary art. Cologne has medieval times. Düsseldorf didn’t decade after losing its official politi- of the Nazis forced him out of poli- collection of Expressionist works by like the American president or the self as the most eclectic exhibition user-friendly institution devoted to a private one, but it has now opened cities, “that a village could become Gerhard Richter, Germany’s most even exist in those days.” cal status, Bonn has managed to tics, he sought refuge in Rhöndorf, native son August Macke and an im- British prime minister, Germany’s space in the country, featuring telling the story of Germany’s occu- up into a public party, with thou- the center of the world.” W10 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. W11 TRAVEL TRAVEL

Harald Wagener A resilient and renovated Bonn

The former West German capital steps out from its Cold War shadow, emerging as a cultural hub Clockwise from top left, Kameha Grand Bonn; Kunstmuseum Bonn; Alamy (2)

BY J. S. MARCUS press the reset button again, emerg- a village just outside of town. For portant collection of postwar Ger- chancellor didn’t live in a “historical shows dealing with everything from pation, division and reunification. A sands of Bonners joining in. ing as one of Germany’s newest, and most of his postwar career, he was man art; and the Haus der Ge- building” but one that amounted to archaeology to contemporary art. brainchild of the end of the Cold Bonn now has some 300,000 resi- A tale of two cities nown for its idyllic setting most prosperous, cultural capitals. also a local Bundestag deputy and schichte (House of History), the a “declaration of modernity.” “We have huge exhibition rooms,” War, the museum didn’t open until dents, and is closely connected to and laid-back lifestyle, the “We call them yuppies,” says An- was the driving force behind in- country’s pre-eminent museum of The Kanzlerbungalow, the chan- says Ms. Francke, who is putting the 1994, when the organizers were Cologne, which you can reach by The Rhine River has given Germany famous painter; Düsseldorf has K western German city of Bonn gelica Francke, exhibition manager of stalling the new country’s political contemporary German history. cellors’ official residence from finishing touches on a large exhibi- compelled to tell recent German his- streetcar as well as commuter train. two great cities—Cologne and Andreas Gursky, Germany’s most has had a dramatic ride in recent the Bundeskunsthalle, the city’s pre- center within easy reach of his own The three museums, within walk- 1964–99, was “an enormous step tion about Napoleon. “And we have tory from the new perspective of a But it can have a serene, rustic feel, Düsseldorf. And those two cities famous photographer. Cologne has a years. Elevated from a sleepy col- mier exhibition space, speaking Rhöndorf house and Cologne, some ing distance of each other, are the forward,” says Mr. Nerdinger, in enough money to mount shows that single German state. due in large part to the way it strad- have given Germany its great urban great new building by Pritzker-Prize lege campus to West Germany’s cap- about the young executives—or 30 kilometers away. centerpieces of Bonn’s so-called Mu- making architectural modernism ac- other museums can’t.” “Napoleon The permanent collection— dles the Rhine without overdevelop- rivalry. Separated by 40 kilometers winner Peter Zumthor; Düsseldorf ital in the decade after World War “managers of tomorrow,” as she calls However, Bonn arguably owes its seum Mile, but perhaps the best ceptable in a country which, before and Europe: Dream and Trauma,” which begins with a pre-World War ing the actual riverfront. “The bril- and a winding stretch of river, the likes to show off its buildings by II, the town, once a symbol of time- them—who have taken the place of current resilience to Helmut Kohl, place to start a visit these days is the rise of Nazism, had been home which runs from Dec. 17 to April 25, II train carriage later used by West liant thing about Bonn is the River two cities have stayed resolutely Pritzker winner Frank Gehry. In some less German provincialism, became diplomats in the city’s psyche. Mr. Kohl’s former residence, the to the Bauhaus movement. aims to dramatize both the positive German leaders and ends with the Rhine,” says Mr. Berg, who admits separate while seeming to share the categories, one clearly is ahead of an international hub, home to diplo- Nothing symbolizes the city’s lat- Kanzlerbungalow, West Germany’s Now renovated to selectively and the negative impact of Napo- morning’s news headlines—manages that one of his favorite local pas- same habits and preoccupations. the other. Both celebrate Carnival on mats, bureaucrats and, it was gener- est incarnation better than the A decade after losing its version of the White House. A high- emphasize certain periods in its leon, says Ms. Francke. In 2012, the to convey an epic sense of postwar times since moving here is going for Both are art loving and beer loving, the Monday before Lent, but ally assumed, an A-list cast of Cold Kameha Grand Bonn, a new luxury modernist masterpiece designed in own history, the building demon- exhibition, which was initiated by German life. Using a variety of regular swims in the river. “The wa- and both are centers of Catholicism. Cologne’s party is larger and better War spies. hotel built right on the river, with official political status, the early 1960s by German architect strates the taste of Erhard, who the Bundeskunsthalle, will travel to styles and techniques, recalling ev- ter quality is really good now,” he It would be easy to imagine them known. Both have excellent With the collapse of communism an outrageous neo-baroque interior Bonn has managed to Sep Ruf, the building opened up to was fond of modernist furniture as Paris’s Musée de l’Armée in Les In- erything from a science museum to says. “And as long as you stay on the growing together, like Manhattan shopping, but only Düsseldorf has in 1989 and the official move of re- by Dutch design superstar Marcel public tours last year after an exten- well as architecture, and of Mr. valides, where Napoleon is buried. a theme park, the museum aspires beaches,” which help to keep swim- and Brooklyn, or waging war, like the Königsallee, Germany’s center for unified Germany’s capital to Berlin, Wanders. At lunchtime, you can find press the reset button. sive renovation. Kohl, who brought with him a now- Bonn “has a museum landscape “to make the themes of history un- mers clear of dangerous currents and Florence and Pisa. Visitors to the high fashion and high prices. Bonn seemed poised to lose its pres- Ms. Francke’s yuppies eating on the Ruf “was one of the most impor- unfashionable array of ’80s alterna- that is far bigger and more prosper- derstandable,” says Jürgen Reiche, boat traffic, “it’s all right.” region eagerly go back and forth, but tige, left with little but a location on terrace, chatting into cellphones as tant postwar German architects,” tions, including what could be ous than other cities,” says Stephan director of exhibitions since the mu- Many longstanding Bonn resi- locals tend to stay at home. Reduced, but not gone the Rhine River, a stable of students they gaze out over the Rhine. Since the Federal Republic’s longest-serv- says Winfried Nerdinger, director of called anti-modernist wallpaper. Berg, the director of the Kunstmu- seum’s early days. Next month, the dents like Ms. Francke still miss In the western reaches of a unified and a heady case of nostalgia. opening to the general public in ing chancellor. In the 1980s, with the Architecture Museum of the Visits must be arranged through seum Bonn. Mr. Berg, who arrived in museum will open a special exhibi- Bonn’s previous incarnation, when The same difference country, in the heart of a unifying The spies and the limousines February 2010, the hotel, Germany’s the two separate German states in Technical University in Munich. the Haus der Geschichte. 2008 from Hannover’s Kunstverein, tion about the role of humor in Ger- the historic center’s narrow lanes Cologne has Kölsch, a light frothy continent, the cities may seem to be may have moved on, but the former leading example of eco-inspired lux- what seemed like permanent dis- Commissioned by Ludwig Erhard, Fanciful postmodernist architec- has a special interest in contempo- man life, including material on post- were filled with embassy staff speak- beer drunk out of special small coming closer together. “The rivalry capital is in many ways doing better ury, has racked up a number of ac- unity, Mr. Kohl hoped to make Bonn the economics minister under Ad- ture of the 1980s marks both the rary artists. The museum, he says, is war political cabaret and Bonn’s ing “the world’s languages.” These glasses; Düsseldorf has Alt, a dark is a little reduced,” says Monika than its successor. Now home to two colades, including being named one a cultural showpiece. Over the fol- enauer and then his successor as Bundeskunsthalle and the Kunstmu- now “trying to do much more with traditional carnival celebrations. days, you are more likely to hear frothy beer drunk out of special Sprüth, a Cologne resident and Mr. of the country’s larger employers, of the year’s best new business ho- lowing decade, he helped initiate chancellor, the Kanzlerbungalow is seum buildings, which surround a media-based art.” This week, the Bonn’s recent makeover extends Telekom executives speaking English small glasses. Cologne has the Gurksy’s art dealer. Reduced perhaps, Deutsche Telekom and Deutsche tels by Wallpaper magazine. the construction of three major mu- an austere steel-and-glass pavilion piazza, the Museumsplatz, where museum opened Germany’s first ma- to Carnival, which officially began at with a German accent, but the Museum Ludwig, one of Germany’s but not gone. It only takes a few Post, Bonn has a lower unemploy- Bonn owed its status as West seums, which now serve as the cen- that stands in stark contrast to concerts are held in the summer and jor exhibition devoted to the work of 11 minutes after 11 on Nov. 11, when pre-1989 sophistication lives on in two leading museums of modern questions to get Ms. Sprüth to ment rate and a higher standard of Germany’s capital to the country’s ter of Bonn’s artistic scene: the other public buildings of the time, ice-skating goes on in winter. American photographer Mitch Ep- the city was introduced to this sea- other guises. and contemporary art; Düsseldorf restart it. “Cologne is a city that is living than Berlin. And, with a clus- first chancellor, Konrad Adenauer Bundeskunsthalle, which offers a which still aspired to Bavarian In the past few years, the stein, a pioneer of socially critical son’s Carnival “royalty,” a select Bonn “still shows the old dream has the Kunstsammlung Nordrhein- 2,000 years old,” she says, when ter of thriving first-class museums, (1876–1967). Cologne’s long-time broad range of temporary exhibi- charm or Prussian pomp. Bundeskunsthalle, still enriched di- color photography (through Jan. 23). group of locals who preside over the of Konrad Adenauer,” says Mr. Berg, Westfalen, Germany’s other leading asked to compare the two. “It was it can compete with many of its mayor, Adenauer had studied at tions; the Kunstmuseum Bonn, the The residence, says Mr. Nerd- rectly with money from Germany’s Bonn’s most popular museum re- season’s costumed festivities. Until when asked to compare Bonn’s cul- museum of modern and important in Roman times and eastern rival’s artistic offerings. A Bonn’s university and, after the rise city’s art museum, with a unique inger, “was something special.” Un- national budget, has established it- mains the Haus der Geschichte, a this past decade, the ceremony was tural offerings with other German contemporary art. Cologne has medieval times. Düsseldorf didn’t decade after losing its official politi- of the Nazis forced him out of poli- collection of Expressionist works by like the American president or the self as the most eclectic exhibition user-friendly institution devoted to a private one, but it has now opened cities, “that a village could become Gerhard Richter, Germany’s most even exist in those days.” cal status, Bonn has managed to tics, he sought refuge in Rhöndorf, native son August Macke and an im- British prime minister, Germany’s space in the country, featuring telling the story of Germany’s occu- up into a public party, with thou- the center of the world.” W12 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. W9 HOMES FOOD WINE A question of taste

We’re taking a fresh look at the Although it will not be habitable bolt-on private residences, serviced dry, restaurant and bar. star hotel services. planted, the future appears very promising indeed. Haynes Hanson & Clark scope and depth of luxury living, go- until 2011, more than half of the by the hotel.” In Zurich, the iconic Mobimo The beck-and-call service ap- W8 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. W13 FOOD HOMES The decline of European home cooking Families risk rearing a generation of ‘kitchen orphans’ who have never seen their mothers use the oven

in the 19th century—than others. the changing role of women in Euro- wealthier families, but there is a need leave their jobs and go back to Fourth Estate) this type of property.” Clockwise from to W14 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. W7

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! " # $ #% & '! (! # '! )! (! & (& (" ( W6 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. W15 FASHION Pajamas: one man’s love story

Call them quaint or call them childish. What do I care? PJs are classic, comfy and sophisticated

BY STEVE GARBARINO hen I was 6 (and 7, and 8), I wanted to be “Max,” the delin- quent hellion child from Maurice W > ) +) 8 . Sendak’s “Where the Wild Things Are.” )) $$$4 ) ) > ) ) What kid didn’t? In his white pajama-esque 3 0 ( )) 3 jumpsuit, with clawed footsies, horns and ) ? ; ( all, he ruled the monster kingdom. But the + 6. . . closest I came to a Max ensemble was a . . + ( 1 ( + pair of flannel Sears & Roebuck pajamas. In + :. . . + ! "# $$%& ( ( H ! ' PJs, I could rule the playground, or at least &$ . + ! my own little world. . = Since then, my affinity for pajamas has only increased. Like a grown-up Max, I found I was held unaccountable while 0 0 wearing my plastic-buttoned, draw-stringed $ $ ! 0 # $ $ ! 0 # ! "# uniform. Shake a tumbler! Snuggle a snow bunny! Spill a drink! “Who GIVES a pink elephant!” You’re in pajamas. Over the + ' + "* + ) ; 89 > ; ; ( . years, I’ve gone through quite a few sets, . . ) +) ( G + first Brooks Brothers, then a pair of + 9 + ( + + Crayola-striped Paul Smith’s in my late ) . ( 5 ' .9 )99 ' 20s—the nighttime equivalent of a Dino or () .. !F . + 3 Frank tux. But when I moved to Hollywood +. + ( ( ( . + . for a television pilot gig, I discovered my "# $$%$$ 1 )6 ! golden fleece: a pair of white cotton ! ) H pajamas from Tracey Ross, the now-defunct boutique in West Hollywood. Fitted and crisp (with my monogram on the chest 0 pocket) my TR’s proved the perfect pair for $ $$ ! "# $ ! "# ) ($ ! +8 both hanging by my faux-logged gas fireplace and sleeping, too. Then things got weird. While in my Lau- > ( ) & & ( ":= 91 rel Canyon rental, enduring a particularly () ' + long stretch of writer’s block (and the ) G "* () + J. + ) hangovers that come with it), I began to ) +9+ + ) , - 1 ( ? + ) ) 1 "

“out” myself, venturing below to my Mar- F. Martin Ramin for The Wall Street Journal, Styling by Anne Cardenas C+ ; 0$ ) .. + FF )) ( . $ 3 3 ( ? Clockwise from above, the author’s Tracey Ross / Pajamas were chick magnets, pajamas; poplin pajamas, from £195, Turnbull & H Asser, store.turnbullandasser.co.uk; silk pajamas, G G - ! not to mention the subject £470, shopolatz.com; sleeper pajamas, £250, of much fabulously Frette, frette.com; broadcloth pajamas, £69, 0 % & ' 5 brooksbrothers.com. mysterious speculation. ) ( )) ! 9#+ (( ( (( " (( $ ) ! & $ )( ! Our author’s bedtime essentials . . . ! mont Lane mailbox in my matching set to " . ;3 0 /+ ) + get paychecks that were rarely, if ever, Tracey Ross cotton pajamas 9 )99 @A + C ' 1 1( there. It wasn’t long before I was donning They’re like a casual suit—simple, soft and ( D ( ' 2 ' 3 $$$4 ) them further afield. Like 24-7. After all, I nightcap-elegant. available on ebay.com * ( 1. ( reasoned, wearing round-the-clock pajamas ) 3 0 ) . + ) . 5 . ? $B ! . 2 + ) ! isn’t a style, it’s a lifestyle! I wore them Jonathan Adler Holiday Home candle + 6 . >)) ) )I 6 5 with beat-up Rainbow flip-flops on my af- It’s supposed to smell like “pine and evergreen ) 9! . = + 6. . ternoon visits to Bristol Farms (the gour- trees … cinnamon … and a hint of snow.” And it C!! / : . ! ( $ met Sunset Boulevard chain). Nary a stare. does! But to me it’s the smell of a fourth- D- Perhaps shoppers thought I was a student grader’s Christmases past. That nostalgic of karate! I wore them during work hours, aroma of crisp Main Line winter air and 5 5 * + , ) ( ! ) ) ! ) (( ! * +, conducting occasional celebrity magazine crackling logs comes back to me. It’s not interviews on my terrace. I wore them one cloying, but it is sentimental. jonathanadler.com Santa Ana–windy night while hobnobbing over too many Screwhound cocktails in the Fantastic Mr. Fox 8. & . ":. 0 + %3$ ! 7 8 + 9 .: lobby of the fabled Hollywood hotel, the As a sixth grader, I’d read Roald Dahl’s ) C! ( .9+ 9 . / Chateau Marmont (my très-accepting, “Fantastic Mr. Fox” from my upper bunk bed, . ) ( neighboring, enabling hatch). In the wee with my annoying older brother making 0 $$$ ) . & . . "# $$ &$; hours of morn there, a starlet accustomed Whoopee Cushion sound effects below to ( . ' 3 $$$ B ) "# $$ % %$ to producers buying her drinks procured break my concentration. So it was, well, ) / me a “freshen-up,” and began listening to fantastic, when Wes Anderson—another ( ) 6 - ( my astute badinage. When a male inter- pajama aficionado—came out last year with his ) loper, attempting the proverbial block, in- animated adaptation of the book in which he quired, “You know you’re wearing paja- costumes the debonair title character (George mas?” a debonair Oscar-nominated actor Clooney) and his nerdy son (Jason / /0 - + % - + % sitting in my enclave answered, drolly, for Schwartzman) in very respectable sets of $ () ! 0 $$ $ ! " $"$( ! " me: “Of course, of course.” As if: “Doesn’t pajamas. amazon.com everyone?” It was then I realized: Pajamas were chick magnets, not to mention the Thunderstorms 0 .# /0 0+ ) subject of much fabulously mysterious I miss the dramatic-but-lulling sounds of New 12 ) 3 % ( ! ! speculation. Is that grizzled dude insane? Orleans’s daily, tempest-like downpours (I live ) 3 %$$ B ) % ( (9. % + + < )) &$$ ) ) Or filthy rich? Ah, yes! He’s eh-cen-trick! there in the summer). In their place, I’ll play 3 :. ! . . You get it? I’m pajama people, people! iTunes White Noise Meditation’s “Intense Lucid "# $$ & ( + ) " Now is the winter of my content. As I Dreaming—Thunder and Rain,” on my iPhone. -E 7: . 9 ! 6 settle into my more “comfortable” years, itunes.com ! + 6. . > 5 . wearing “jammies” is more about shutting . = , / ( )$ in than showing off. My pajamas are more White Russian 2 '+ - . likely to be spotted by my roaring hearth As embarrassingly “Lebowski” as it sounds, than at an all-night bacchanalia. Point is, this creamy cocktail is easy to make, settles - + % 4 5 I’m still living the dream. So, if you’re any my stomach and makes for a dreamless $$ ! " $ ) ) ! + )) ! ,6 *7 . kind of man, lose the boxers and those sleep. They’re not filling if you have just one. logo-crazy CKs and Helmut Langs, and get One White Russian in short glass: ice, ! " # $ #% & yourself into a dignified two-piece pair. two parts Kahlua, one part Ketel One vodka '! (! # '! )! (! & (& (" ( Anything else (but, of course, a birthday and a splash of heavy cream. suit) simply won’t do. W16 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. W5 BOOKS FASHION A Spectered Isle Stylish men’s boots Twinkle, Twinkle, for work, rain and snow The English Ghost: Spectres Through Time BY CHERYL LU-LIEN TAN glued on, it’s more likely to come By Peter Ackroyd apart in adverse conditions. Giant Star (Chatto & Windus, 276 pages, £12.99) intry weekday weather The outside of the boot is made leaves men with a di- of a synthetic material that is de- lar eclipses have always inspired, possible to forecast,” he says, and BY TOBY LICHTIG W lemma: How can you pro- signed to look like good-quality Chasing the Sun and how an eclipse in 1919 led to the then is unable to resist adding: “Un- tect your feet from the elements leather. But when picking shoes By Richard Cohen acceptance of Einstein’s theory that til the sixteenth century, ‘weather’ Peter Ackroyd has made a name while still looking respectable for made of synthetic materials, Mr. (Simon & Schuster, 704 pages, £30) gravity bends the light from stars and ‘whether’ were interchangeable for himself digging out the ghosts the office? Pliner makes sure that the linings visible near an eclipsed sun. We find spellings.” Then he notes: “Or, as from England’s past. He is the coun- Shoe designer Donald J. Pliner are made of leather. “Your feet have BY ANN FINKBEINER out how the atom was discovered Joyce’s Leopold Bloom so charm- try’s bard of urban mythology, of lit- relies on a workhorse in his ward- to breathe,” he says. and then split, and how a bomb was ingly puts it, weather is ‘as uncertain erary archaeology, the weathered robe: a sleek, multifunctional boot. Mr. Pliner favors winter boots About 10 years ago, Richard Co- built based on atomic fusion, which as a child’s bottom.’ ” walkway and cultural palimpsest. In “If you’re going to work in a suit that close with zippers—and a hen was running a British publishing is the process that powers the sun. “Chasing the Sun” is sprinkled his latest book of non-fiction, Mr. and need to walk there in the cold, tongue beneath the zipper for extra house and trying to find someone to But Mr. Cohen—oddly enough, in throughout with such glittery de- Ackroyd turns his attention to spec- rain or snow, a boot that is dressy protection. “With laces, you have write a book he wanted to read, one a book protesting the sun’s decen- lights. The haloes of Christian saints, ters themselves: the manifold sight- enough for a suit is key,” he says. openings, and the water can come about the sun. He found no takers tralization—says little about the sun he says, began as little suns. The ings and frightenings recorded by the “You don’t need to be the man in through the holes,” he says. and so he took the job himself. After itself: How it drew itself together 16th-century Danish astronomer Ty- inhabitants of Albion over the past the suit sporting a pair of Uggs.” Boots aren’t the only answer. Mr. eight years and reporting trips to 18 from the detritus of four previous cho Brahe had two cousins who went 1,500 years. Not all boots will work with Pliner has all the winter shoes he countries on six continents—his wife generations of stars, how it’s layered to England in 1592 on a diplomatic This is an anthologist’s approach suits. They “need to flow well with buys coated with Scotchgard—a ser- would tell inquirers, “Oh, he’s out like an onion and melds gas and mission that had nothing to do with to history and the author leaves his a young girl violently vomits up the outfit, not have too much hard- vice that some shoe stores will do chasing the sun”—he had a 700-page light, how its heat struggles from the the sun or astronomy but, we learn own interventions to a minimum. In- stones and coals “till they came to ware on them, not be high enough for you. If not, you could do it at book with a point. The modern fusing core to reach us. Mr. Cohen with pleasure, as Shakespeare clearly stead, he lets the “evidence” weigh five hundred” (an occurrence pre- that they protrude through the home or take it to a cobbler, he world has decentralized the sun, Mr. confesses: “The main memory I have did, that their names were Frederik down upon the reader. Plundering a sumably not explained merely by pants,” Mr. Pliner says. notes. “Make sure you Scotchgard Cohen says in “Chasing the Sun”; of any scientific endeavor” in high Rosenkrantz and Knud Gyldensti- variety of sources from the Venerable poor diet). When shopping, he looks for the sole as well—many people don’t, science has reduced this glorious school was of a teacher climbing erne. Bede to contemporary newspaper Mr. Ackroyd’s compendium takes truly waterproof boots, rather than but that’s where you walk,” he says, miracle of a star to little more than through a window and frying an egg The book ends with people who clippings, he presents a compendium us through a pleasingly anachronistic “water-resistant” ones, which can noting that without a coating, the a dependable overhead light. “The on a copper pan with a Bunsen still honor the sun. Mr. Cohen, on of scratchings and bangings, knock- world of periwigs and nursery maids, repel water only up to a point. Mr. sole can get damp after a while. wonder has been stripped away,” he burner. “Some readers may wish that one of his many trips, goes to India ings and sawings, waftings, wander- snuffed candles and affrighted nuns. Pliner’s favorite waterproof boot, If Mr. Pliner’s shoes do get wet, writes. I had ventured deeper into solar as- in 2006 to visit Udaipur, about 250 ings and mysterious clobberings. But with the author’s intrusions which he owns in both black and he immediately tries to dry them At least that’s what Mr. Cohen tronomy,” he says, “but this book is miles south of New Delhi, for the “The English see more ghosts so infrequent, we are largely left to rust brown, is ankle-high and has a with paper towels. First, he runs a says his point is. I’m not sure that not a rainbow; it has to end some- Hindu festival of light. He meets than anyone else,” writes Mr. Ack- tease out themes for ourselves. Dogs grooved, inch-thick rubber sole that hair dryer over his shoes, both inside the book backs him up. I suspect where.” with a wealthy local leader, a maha- royd, which is a fascinating thesis un- seem more attuned to ghosts than offers good traction in slick condi- and out. “Not on the highest setting that he was just interested in the sun “Chasing the Sun” is less about rana, who has 14 solar-powered vehi- done only by the total lack of evi- cats do, and women appear more tions. or you might burn up the leather,” he and one thing led to another, the the sun, then, than about the sun’s cles for hire; who says his fam- dence. Granted, England may be than men. Multiple sightings are When choosing a weatherproof notes. Then, he’ll ball up newspaper way Richard Burton in the 17th cen- effect on the Earth and us earthlings. ily—which he traces back to 569—is “obsessed with the past” and littered common and there have been occa- shoe, Mr. Pliner says it’s important or small towels, place them inside tury set out to describe depression The sun’s ultraviolet light gives us “descended from the Sun” (Mr. Co- with its reminders, but this doesn’t sions of simultaneous viewing. Nor to see how slippery the sole is. “I each shoe, and set them out to dry and ended up writing “The Anatomy fashionable tans and skin cancer; it hen capitalizes the word through- necessarily distinguish it from a do ghosts only appear at night. The take the shoe and I slide it along a overnight. The next day, Mr. Pliner of Melancholy, What it is, With all cures seasonal affective disorder and out); and whose stationery, the au- score of other nations. And while the pubescent seem particularly vulnera- table,” he says, noting that he in- puts a new coat of polish on his the kinds, causes, symptomes, prog- thins the ozone layer. The sun sets thor notes, is “embossed with a Sun wealth of (subjective) data is seduc- ble to a good haunting. “It is nota- spects the sole to make sure that it boots to spiff them up, and they’re nostickes, and severall cures of it. In our clocks and calendars and maps. sporting a mighty, whirly mustache.” tive, some comparative history might ble,” writes Mr. Ackroyd, in a rare is stitched onto the shoe. If it’s just ready to face the elements again. three Partitions with their severall Sunspots—formed by cyclical surges The maharana tells him that the sun have been appreciated. What of the and welcome aside, “that poltergeist Sections, members, and subsections. in the sun’s magnetic field—increase is a god, a part of us, divine, and it paranormal chateaux, the ghastly activity is often associated with the Philosophically, Medicinally, Histori- the Earth’s exposure to radiation, af- “doesn’t so much bring us light as castello, the horridly haunted Haus? presence of young girls of 12 or 13 cally, opened and cut up.” fecting everything from the weather take away the darkness.” Mr. Ackroyd fares somewhat bet- years. Some were diagnosed with And so in this discursive and to satellites to telephone service. At Varanasi, an Indian holy city, ter when tackling psychology and et- hysteria.” readable firework of a book, we The sun, Mr. Cohen notes, has been the author watches a Hindu cere- ymology. He ascribes the English Most interesting, perhaps, are the learn—and are interested to do central to the myths of every culture, mony along the Ganges River, at- ghost obsession to the temperament people who claim to have seen so—that the sun was studied by though it’s a mystery why Daedalus tended by more than a thousand in of its people, caught between the ghosts. Dr. Johnson told a story of a primitive cultures because it allowed and his sun-struck son Icarus show boats and on the shore, where “phlegmatic and melancholy”; he friend (“not a credulous man”) who them to time their crops; by the an- up only in a footnote near the end. priests rang bells, blew on conch notes that there are “more than two confirmed the detection of “a shad- cient Chinese because it gave astrol- Gold, mirrors and blondes all have shells and chanted for peace in the hundred ways of describing the owy being.” William Wordsworth’s ogers political power with their rul- been regarded as precious for centu- world—a ceremony held in the dying ghosts of England,” before explaining nephew, Christopher, a fellow at Trin- ers; by early Islamic worshipers ries because they’re sun symbols. light of the setting sun. At that mo- the regional differences between the ity College, Oxford knew of some because it set the direction and hour The sun, of course, governs the ment, Mr. Cohen says, he felt the an- hobbit, the boggart, the dobby, the lodgings “repeatedly abandoned by of their prayers. great cycles in the air and in the cient connection with this star that wraith and the will o’ the wisp. We students on the plea that they were We also learn how Copernicus, oceans, and it might—or might holds over us life and death. And so learn that to “bug” someone means haunted.” In 1912, the Marquis of Kepler, Galileo, Newton and Herschel not—even play a major role in global it does: Without the sun, we’re just literally to “haunt” them and derives Huntington, while lodging with King by turns built the evidence-based warming. Mr. Cohen is agnostic on cold, starving naked mole rats who from an old Cornish/Welsh prefix, George V, wrote to Lord Halifax of a

oh man, do I love this picture.” volume, as do hospitals, libraries, while this book may not make you be- derisively at what are (in your opinion) ( l a

graduate program in science the World of Spirits,” a headless bear editor and producer. His criticism brownstones in Brooklyn. stainless-steel and green kitchen in emotional neediness. nH

writing at Johns Hopkins appears to a sentinel “that so af- regularly appears in the Times Jaso University, is a free-lance science frighted him, that he laid down his Literary Supplement, among other From the top, shoe designer Donald J. Pliner uses a hair dryer on a low setting SOLAR FLAIR Masks from the Museum of the Sun in Riga, Latvia writer. Arms.” In another, from the same era, places. to dry his wet shoes; his pet pup Baby Doll inspired her own shoe designs. W4 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. W17 FASHION ART AUCTIONS The new gold standard Avedon’s iconic photos True blue: The importance of jeans whole photography world is [ Collecting ] there,” says Simone Klein, So- Will Pop’s current dominance of the art world last? theby’s photography department As the weather changes, denim helps pad out holes in your wardrobe; Finding the perfect fit at Gap BY MARGARET STUDER director in Europe. BY ANDREW MCKIE Meanwhile, in London this Famous faces, month, Bonhams will hold its bi- [ Style ] ndy Warhol began his career nudes and fashion annual photography sale Nov. 16. as a commercial artist, pro- icons glamorize On the catalog cover is a rare BY TINA GAUDOIN A ducing magazine illustrations upcoming photog- “Nude Study” (1927), a stylized and advertisements for fashion raphy auctions in composition in which geometric A designer once houses. Less than 50 years since his Paris, London and shadow and decoration play a key told me to only Relaxed skinny jeans by Gap (£55) t first one-man show, and less than a Berlin. role, by the Czech photographer buy my jeans from quarter of a century after his death, On Nov. 20, in a special sale, Frantisek Drtikol (estimate: Gap, “because he is the most commercial artist of Christie’s Paris will offer more £25,000-£30,000). This is a “very spending money the fine-art world, a position con- than 60 photographs by Richard beautiful” work, says Jocelyn Phil- on expensive firmed by this week’s sales at the Avedon, famous for his iconic lips, head of Bonhams photogra- denim is a waste great auction houses in New York. shots of 20th-century celebrities phy department. of time.” I won’t mention the de- At the beginning of the week, and groundbreaking fashion im- And on Nov. 26 in London, signer’s name because I think they Philips de Pury sold one of his ages. The photos come from the Christie’s will hold a photography now have a denim line; but I will paintings of Elizabeth Taylor, “Men Richard Avedon Foundation, a sale filled with legendary faces say that generally speaking, I in Her Life” (1962), for $63.35 mil- philanthropic organization sup- and fashion. On the catalog cover think they were right. lion—the second-highest auction porting the visual arts. is Leonard McCombe’s “Portrait of I’m writing about jeans this price for his work—while at So- A fashion highlight will be one Texas Cowboy, Clarence Hailey week, following swiftly on from theby’s the following day “Coca-Cola of Avedon’s most celebrated im- Long” (1949). The portrait belongs parkas because like your outer- [4]” (1961-62) went for $35.4 mil- ages, “Dovima with Elephants” to a series of shots for Life maga- wear, you need to be sure that lion. On Wednesday night at (1955), featuring the American su- zine that became the inspiration during the transition of seasons Christie’s, “Big Campbell’s Soup Can permodel amid the giant animals, for the legendary “Marlboro Man” you have your ducks (well, jeans) with Can Opener (Vegetable),” an- in an evening dress by Dior (esti- advertising (estimate: £4,000- in a row. We all know that jeans other favorite subject from the pe- mate: €400,000-€600,000). The £6,000). Competing in the sale are no longer old faded faithfuls riod, didn’t quite meet the low esti- photo was taken at a circus in with Long’s cowboy charms will that you sling on at the weekend; mate of $30 million but reached a Paris, a city where the American be a pin-up image of Johnny Depp and you might also know that respectable $23.6 million. A smaller photographer covered fashion col- looking soulfully into the camera thanks to Balmain, there’s a buoy- painting, “Campbell’s Soup Can (To- lections for more than 40 years. of David Bailey (1999) (estimate: ant market for jeans worth £1,000. mato),” exceeded its high estimate, Celebrity highlights will include £7,000-£9,000). However, neither Perhaps you, like me, find the idea selling for $9 million, while at the “The Beatles Portfolio, London, work can compete in price with of paying the same price for a same sale, “Oh... Alright,” a 1964 England” (1967), a rarely available Irving Penn’s 1957 portrait of art- pair of jeans as you might for a painting by Warhol contemporary set of four psychedelic color por- ist Pablo Picasso, with big, watch- pedigree dog or a month’s grocer- Roy Lichtenstein, set a new record traits of John Lennon, George Har- ful eyes half-hidden by a sombrero ies abhorrent. If you don’t, well, I for the artist at $42.6 million. rison, Paul McCartney and Ringo (estimate: £60,000-£80,000). respect your opinion, but I sin- Much of the attention the New Starr (estimate: €250,000- Among the female images will cerely hope that if you have that York art sales receive from the me- €350,000). Avedon’s superb 1957 be a photo of British model Kate sort of income, you donate at dia focuses on headline prices and, portrait of Marilyn Monroe, show- Moss looking sulkily into the lens least double that amount to char- only as a secondary consideration, ing the actress in New York in a of British photographer Rankin ity on a monthly basis. the artists who command them. Like glittering halter-neck top, is esti- (£4,000-£6,000). Looking just as

The Catalan chef talks to The Wall hear about those cooks who say What movies do you enjoy? 12-13| Cover story Street Journal Europe about how they prepare food at home. Per- All. I don’t really care. I want to he starts his weekend. haps they don’t do that much at be taken in by the film. And I can A new breed of their own restaurants. even watch three films in a row, apartments are zero Ferran Adrià is in the middle of just getting out of a theater and what he calls his last “hectic” Who do you go out to dinner with? getting into the next one. maintenance and season as chef of the multi- With my wife, Isabel, in search of maximum luxury. award-winning restaurant El the intimacy we don’t enjoy when With the kind of landscape you get Bulli, located near Girona in we have to work. I usually go out in Girona, do you feel the need for northern Catalonia. When he with my wife alone on Fridays outdoor activities? 4-6 | Fashion shuts down the venue next July, and with friends joining us on I know I live as close to paradise to transform it into what he calls Saturdays. on earth as you can get, but I still Jeans fill the gaps between the seasons. Plus, a creative atelier, he plans to en- love to stroll around Barcelona. I Coolhunter, winter shoes and men’s pajamas. joy “every weekend,” something What are your favorite venues? never get tired of the sea, and he cannot afford now because of Our favorite places for eating out Barcelona is a wonderful city, a his professional commitments. are those in which we feel as if we place you can enjoy a lot. It’s not “I’m a man who leads quite a were at home. I’m a loyal client of just that you can walk by the sea- strange life,” he says. “I don’t re- that kind of restaurant, such as side. There you can also have a ally work at El Bulli; this is my Rías de Galicia, Shunka, Dos Palil- paella at some chiringuito [no- home. But I’m not an oddball. los or Inopia, run by my brother frills beach-front eateries popular What I like best in my free time is Albert. Luckily, in most of them across Spain] and it’s a simple but to be able to disconnect.” I’m treated as a colleague, as a great pleasure. And in this envi- Over the past two decades, Mr. friend, and receive a warm wel- ronment [at Cala Montjoi], I like ‘Don’t fall for the “you can dress Adrià has spent six months each come. But, for some nights, when to do some heavy gardening. I try year working nonstop in Cala I am told there is some new open- to have my garden as clean as jeans up or down” line. You can’t.’ Montjoi, the remote paradise ing, my wife and I also like to possible as a physical exercise and where El Bulli is located—over- have a try and discover new res- to try to keep fit; it’s something looking a quiet beach mysteriously taurants, which are constantly great to do with this landscape. 10-11| Travel devoid of the traffic and bustle opening in Barcelona. We prefer With a host of first-rate that tend to swamp such spots in simple ones, and we like Japanese You’ve written many books. Spain’s Mediterranean coast. He cooking very much. I love Japan, What do you read? museums and a new spends the remaining six months as it is another planet; they have Now, I concentrate all my efforts designer hotel, Bonn has Illustration by Jean-Manuel Duvivier in Barcelona, his birthplace and de- a very special sensibility. I don’t in writing, and so I read quite a compressing chamber. “I don’t re- get tired of being there. lot about cooking, but it may be repositioned itself as a ally make a difference between considered more as part of my cultural capital. personal and professional life,” the And besides eating? job. One of my secret pleasures is Where the stomach is the way to the heart 48 year old adds. “But when El Watching soccer is a luxury for me, to buy the Sunday magazines that Bulli changes, in the end I won’t be either on TV or live at the stadium. come with newspapers. I buy tusi spent decades compiling reci- ropean trend Rose Prince describes busy 95% of the time, as it is now.” I do not have a TV at home in El them all, start reading them on [ European Life ] pes from all over the country, as on page W8) is inspiring nostalgia Bulli, so these moments are a total Sundays and then I take advan- 3|Profile his contribution to Italian unifica- for the ever-rarer traditional fare. How do you plan your weekend? chilling time. It’s something I can tage of every minute I’m free to BY FRANCIS X. ROCCA IN ROME tion. To the same end, his book Even if they no longer have time to I like dining out very much. I really only do four or five times a year. carry on reading them. But I am French actress Gisèle was an advertisement for the Flo- make good food, Italians can at enjoy eating, but after 15 hours in Although I wouldn’t necessarily ex- also fond of Internet newspapers; Casadesus on why, at the “It will be maca- rentine version of Tuscan dialect, least read about it in spare mo- a kitchen, I prefer to take it easy change that for a dinner out. I do not have any problem reading roni, I swear to ostensibly the new national ments, via the Artusi app on their and not feel any more pressure on [news] on the Internet. age of 96, she still has no you, that unites It- tongue, though hardly anyone out- iPhones and iPads. me. That’s why I like to eat out so How do you disconnect? —Mr. Adrià was speaking with plans for retirement. aly.” Whether or side of Florence actually spoke it. much. I find it very odd when I Going to the movies. Daniel De la Puente Martín. Paola de Grenet for The Wall Street Journal not Giuseppe Regional dialects nevertheless Revelations, true or presumed Garibaldi, legend- remain strong today. Most people Artusi isn’t the only prominent 59 Monk in “The Da Vinci Code” Down 49 Composer 90 Bibliog. abbr. ary leader of the here prefer them for everyday son of Romagna with a new book THE JOURNAL CROSSWORD / Edited by Mike Shenk 8-9| Food 60 Boulevard planting 1 Backyard parties, for short ___-Korsakov 91 Capitol gofer 19th-century Risorgimento that communication, and a linguist out. This week witnessed the pub- 50 Alien-seeking gp. Raising a generation of ‘kitchen orphans.’ brought together the states of the friend estimates that nearly half lication of the first volume of some Across 22 Branch of physics 29 Chi-Town 48 Quaint milk 61 Signature comedy routines 2 Villain in “Le Petit 92 Stage direction concerned with Chaperon Rouge” 53 Bond order Italian peninsula, ever actually the population still speak local dia- recently discovered “Diaries of 1 Plastered exchange containers 63 Between, to Babette 95 In working order Plus, a towering legend and blind wine tasting. 3 Like some vaccines 54 Jargon ending spoke these words, they accurately lect better than standard Italian. Mussolini.” Their authenticity is life 31 Folk singer 51 Nasser was 64 Money maker 96 Many an MIT grad 7 Dean’s world 58 Subcompact convey the central—often obses- So, too, with cuisine. Some controversial, so the publisher, 24 Lot for homes Griffith its pres. 69 Pen pal’s greeting? 4 Coffee break time, perhaps 97 Counting everyone 14 VW precursors? 5 Cloth shred 60 Euro’s forerunner sive—role food has always played dishes, such as spaghetti or veal Bompiani, no doubt recalling the 25 Egg-hitting-the- 35 Peacock’s pride 52 Coats with goo 70 Outstanding amount 100 Capital on the 16| Books 19 God of the floor sound 6 Big Ten sch. 62 Break ground in Italian culture and society. cutlet alla Milanese, have become 1983 debacle of the forged “Hitler 36 ___ au vin 55 Sue Grafton’s 71 It was translated Mississippi north wind 26 Basketball Chasing giant stars. Italy marks its 150th anniver- part of the national menu. But it Diaries,” is billing them as the 39 Concrete “___ for Alibi” by Anthony Purver 7 Both: Prefix 65 Half a laugh 103 Prevent from 20 Clint Eastwood, center? sary as a modern nation-state next is hard to find anyone from Turin “true or presumed” journals of the 41 Attacks 74 Some early PCs 8 Memorial mound 66 Some accounting practicing, in a way for one 27 Like Hawaii’s 56 Fairylike being year, and the flow of exhibitions, eating orecchiette e cime di rape Fascist dictator. Among the revela- 9 “I’ll take that as ___” entries: Abbr. 106 Suspends 21 “My gentle Puck, Mount Waialeale, 43 Tiler’s meas. of myth 77 Stead 10 Alternative to 67 Geisha’s sash 17-20 | Arts lectures, broadcasts, books, news- (ear-shaped pasta with turnip tions, true or presumed: that Mus- come hither” of all places in 47 “Burma Looks 57 Nellie’s love in 79 “Understood...” 108 It may be wild cable Internet 68 Most sagacious paper inserts and other forms of greens) or a Sicilian ordering saf- solini foresaw the eventual enmity speaker the U.S. Ahead” author “South Pacific” 80 Rock group 110 Skimpy suit Pop art, Richard Avedon’s 11 My Chemical 71 Status chaser commemoration is already well un- fron risotto. of his German allies, even as he 111 “Qué ___?” iconic photographs and Play Book / by Elizabeth C. Gorski 81 Tinted feature Romance genre 72 Have no reservations? der way. None will better express It should therefore come as no brought Italy into World War II; of some cars 112 Broadway opening the flavor of the occasion than a surprise that, more than a century and that the man responsible for 123456 78910111213 1415161718 12 “The Treachery of Images” 73 Permit rethinking ‘Don Giovanni.’ 85 NYC hrs. 113 Caribbean shade new edition next monthof Pel- and a half after the Austrian Italy’s anti-Semitic racial laws was painter 75 Nasty sort 19 20 21 86 Song of triumph 115 Did ninety legrino Artusi’s “La scienza in statesman Klemens von Metternich also given to noting that “some of 13 “May It Be” singer 76 Forwarded 87 PC character set 14 1970 Leon Uris book, and a 117 End for infer or insist cucina e l’arte di mangiare bene” dismissed Italy as a mere “geo- my best friends are Jews.” 22 23 24 78 La Salle of “ER” 19| Friday night, Saturday morning hint to this puzzle’s theme (“Science in the Kitchen and the graphical expression,” Italian unity 88 XXIII x XXIV 80 Easter season: Abbr. 118 Fall setting 25 26 27 28 15 Wards off Chef Ferran Adrià starts the weekend with some Art of Eating Well”). remains a work in progress. In lo- A cardinal moment 91 Big Ten sch. 81 Hat-tipping address 119 Alternative to “yo!” 16 Mmes. of Madrid First published in 1881, the cal elections last year, more than a Mussolini’s fantasy of a restored 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 92 Wide of the mark 82 Bone, in Bologna 120 Outlaw secret pleasures. Plus, The Journal Crossword. 17 Civil wrong book ranks as a classic on literary quarter of the vote in Lombardy Roman empire came to naught, but 93 Set the price at 83 “Swan Lake” heroine 122 Crunch targets 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 18 Pop’s bro, slangily grounds as much as for its reci- and the Veneto went to the North- Italy today is a world leader in sev- 94 Monarch whose residence 84 Leaping circus 123 Joanne of WSJ.com/lifeandstyle 21 Baroque pes. The lists of ingredients and ern League, which, though it has eral fields, including gastronomy, 47 48 49 50 51 is Huis ten Bosch performer “Thunder Bay” directions for their preparation abandoned its separatist rhetoric wine, fashion—and Catholicism. On 98 God, to Giuseppe 23 Hong Kong neighbor 124 Farm butter 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 89 Like many summer are interlaced with charming di- of the 1990s, still plays heavily on Nov. 20, Pope Benedict XVI will 99 Terrarium growth 28 Right-leaning type? TV shows 125 End of a sr.’s address 30 Mil. supplies orders gressions on history, literature, resentment of the underdeveloped create 24 new cardinals, 10 of them 59 60 61 62 101 Rude activity classical mythology, folklore, sci- and state-dependent south. from Italy, raising the nation’s 32 Justice Dept. staffers Last Week’s Solution 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 102 Oklahoma city named for ence and gossip. Artusi’s recipe If the country has a heart, share of those eligible to vote for a Tennyson character 33 Pen’s point ULSTER I TWAS I I C I CLE REL I VE DEACON AGATHAS for arista (roast loin of pork), for however, the way to it surely lies his successor to 20%, larger than 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 104 D.C. pol 34 Cart horse sound instance, explains that its name through the stomach. According any other country’s. That same af- 36 Used colorful language BAABAAWALTERS MI NOANS 105 Just one of those things ANTE DOH RET AVAR I CE derives from a form of the Greek to a recent survey sponsored by ternoon, at 4:30, the Vatican’s Ap- 77 78 79 80 37 Like some banking 107 Moved furtively NEHRU WOOFBL I TZER REX word for “good,” used by Eastern the farmers’ lobby Coldiretti, ostolic Palace will throw open its 38 Sewing bee squares 81 82 83 84 85 86 109 Sparring IDE SESAME OREO YAM Orthodox bishops to praise the nearly half of all Italians think the Bronze Doors to anyone who wants 40 Yellow Teletubby TORNUP NERDS ENS GAPS 111 Nickname for George Halas dish when it was served to them “most representative aspect of na- to personally congratulate the new 87 88 89 90 91 92 42 Orch. section ENSURES AREEL STANN I C 114 Night sch. course DEEP RAMROD ATEMPO during the 16th-century Council of tional identity” is their cuisine, princes of the church. The event is 93 94 95 96 97 98 44 They’re usually made Florence. Modern cookbook au- ahead of culture, fashion and foot- a unique opportunity to wander 116 Easily influenced group with baking powder MUJER ATARI BOSSTWEET thors often include such informa- ball. Significantly, even the ways through grand halls of state and 99 100 101 102 103 104 120 Bogart’s “The Big Sleep” EPA BRO IMS NTH ORT 45 Arkin’s “The In-Laws” ALCROAKER OESTE NEWSY tion, of course, but when Artusi that regions insult each other are stand at the window where newly co-star co-star 105 106 107 108 109 110 NIKONS DEHORN INON Barbara Tina Fuhr Editor Carlos Tovar Art Director did so, he was a pioneer. with reference to diet: northern- elected popes are presented to the 121 They involves eight atoms 46 Very, in Vichy INBOARD PEEVE GOTTAGO Beth Schepens Deputy Editor Elisabeth Limber Weekend Art Director “The Art of Eating Well” wasn’t ers are mocked as polentoni (po- world. It may be the best party 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 126 Sharp TKOS ARM AR I ES LARSEN Brian M. Carney Books Page Editor For an interactive only an homage to fine food; it was lenta eaters), southerners as ter- ever held in Rome with nothing to 127 Remove a support from t WT S E GAD C R E D I T I T E 120 121 122 123 124 125 version of The Wall also an act of patriotism. A pros- roni (soil eaters). eat or drink. 128 High school events DEW H I SSMAJESTY ECASH Street Journal AVOWERS ECO TEK ANNO Questions or comments? Write to [email protected]. perous silk merchant from the Maybe the decline of home Next week, 126 127 128 129 Manicure target Please include your full name and address. northern region of Romagna, Ar- cooking in Italy (part of a pan-Eu- Lennox Morrison in Paris Crossword, WSJ.com NEWHI RE CHESTERAARFER 129 130 131 130 Took on subscribers can go to KNEELER HELPER V I OLAS 131 Memo stam WSJ.com/Puzzles EARTAG ESSAYS ALLURE W20 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Friday - Sunday, November 12 - 14, 2010 CULTURAL CALENDAR Basel ART “Thurneysser Superstar” explores the WEEKEND JOURNAL. 16th-century art patron Leonhard Thurneysser zum Thurn, showing documents and stained-glass windows FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 12 - 14, 2010 WSJ.com/lifeandstyle glorifying his life. Museum für Gegenwartskunst Nov. 13-Feb. 13 41-61-2066-262 www.kunstmuseumbasel.ch

Berlin PHOTOGRAPHY “Fred Herzog. Photographs” presents a retrospective of 40 works by the German pioneer of color photography. C/O Berlin Until Jan. 9 49-30-2809-1925 www.co-berlin.info

music from their latest album, Vienna oe

“The Suburbs.” ART rK to ik