Introduction

Home , Amsoldingen, Anzing, Blumenstein, Boltigen, Burg Freiberg, Burg Kaisersberg

Notes

Introduction

1. Burke, Volkskultur, 121. 2. Erasmus, ‘Diversoria’, 371, 374. 3. Earle, Micro-Cosmographie, 33. 4. Spang, Restaurant, and Habermas, Public Sphere, 30. 5. For commercial catering in Antiquity, see Firebaugh, Hospitality; Andrews, ‘Pompeii’; Ellis, ‘Outlets’. 6. Kerntke, Taverne, 36. 7. Peyer, Gastlichkeit, 281. This is the standard work on the origins and medieval development of the trade. 8. 1990 edn, 92. Publicans are ‘apt to swallow any extravagant story’ about the origins or historical role of their premises (Johnson, ‘Sources’, 21), so that ‘more nonsense is talked about the history of inns and public houses than about that of any other establishment’ (Moody, Burford, pt 1, 3). For a critical look at some old English pub genealogies, see the section on ‘Great Pub Myths’ in Brandwood et al., Licensed. 9. Hunter, George Inn (looked after by the National Trust). The Elephant at Bressanone (South Tyrol), where Emperor Maximilian stayed with an Indian elephant in 1550, features historical information on murals, in brochures, websites and a house museum: http://www.hotelelephant.com/ (consulted 4 November 2006). The innkeeping dynasty even produced its own historian, Hans Heiss. 10. Liebenau, Wirtshauswesen; Potthoff and Kossenhaschen, Kulturgeschichte; Rauers, Kulturgeschichte; Richardson, Inns. This tradition persists in works like Benker, Gasthof; Haydon, Pub; and May and Schilz, eds, Gasthäuser. 11. On legislation: Kachel, Herberge (and more recently: Mooseder and Laturell, ‘Tafernwirtschaften’ and Hunter, ‘Legislative framework’); Pantin, ‘Inns’ (architecture); Larwood and Hotten, Signs. 12. Peyer, Gastlichkeit, and his edited collection Gasthaus; Clark, Alehouse. 13. Tlusty, Bacchus. 14. Brennan, Drinking; Martin, Alcohol; Kaiser and Kaiser-Guyot, Gewalt; Beneder, Gasthaus. 15. Ma˛czak, Travel; Gräf and Pröve, Reisen; Behringer, Kommunikationsrevolution. 16. Teuteberg, ‘Kulturgeschichte’. See also the volumes of the ‘International Com- mission for Research into European Food History’, most recently Jacobs and Scholliers, eds, Eating Out. 17. Hirschfelder, Alkoholkonsum; Smyth, ed., Conviviality. 18. Stewart, ‘Taverns’. 19. Mennell et al., Food; Hürlimann, Soziabilität; Freist, Communication; Scott, Resistance. 20. Hanawalt, ‘Space’; Rau and Schwerhoff, eds, Öffentliche Räume; Dürr and Schwerhoff, eds, Tavernen; Schoﬁeld, ‘Houses’; Tlusty, ‘Privat’; Brown, ‘Public houses’. 21. Boos, ed., Wirtshauskultur; Frieser, Wirtshäuser. 22. Jenisch, ‘Gasthaus’, 277. 197 198 Notes

23. Rageth-Fritz, Falken; Heiss, Weg; Munby, ‘Oxford inn’. 24. Everitt, ‘Inn’; Spang, Restaurant. 25. Cherubini, ‘Taverna’; Muchembled, Violence, 200–21; Brändle, ‘Wirtshäuser’, Linde, ‘Krüge’; Radeff, ‘Auberges’; Moody, Burford. 26. Khan, ‘Karawansarays’; Thompson, Tavern-Going; Salinger, Drinking. 27. Kümin and Tlusty, eds, Tavern; Hirschfelder, Alkoholkonsum, offers a comparison of two cities in the early industrial age; ‘There is room for a major book on alcohol consumption in this period’: Sharpe, ‘Smashed’, 24. 28. Muchembled, Elite Culture; Beneder, Gasthaus. 29. Cameron, ed., Europe, esp. chs 1, 4. 30. Pfister and Egli, eds, Atlas, 34. 31. The extensive older literature on Bernese history is being superseded by a series of new chronological surveys: see Beer et al., eds, Grosse Zeit, and Holenstein, ed., Mächtige Zeit. 32. An eighteenth-century description of the district appears in Holzer, Laupen. 33. For general introductions to early modern Bavaria, see Schuck, ‘Bayern’, and Rankl, Landvolk, ‘Conclusion’. 34. Hoffmann, Städte. 35. Detailed information in Fried, Dachau, and the multi-volume series Kultur- geschichte des Dachauer Landes. For population figures, see Scheidl, ‘Bevölkerungs- entwicklung’. 36. A late eighteenth-century observer emphasized the constant traffic of strangers passing through the town: Westenrieder, ‘Dachau’, 271. 37. Other communities with good record survival, such as Münsingen and Worb (in Bern) and Perlach (Bavaria), will also receive particular attention. 38. A recent survey on beer and brewing in pre-industrial Europe similarly found ‘a surprisingly large body of information’: Unger, Beer, 7. 39. BayHStA, StV 1853 (1580) and GR 878/186 (1806); StAB, B V 142–148 (1628, 1688, 1743, 1789; some with associated material). For comparable surveys in England, cf. Chartres, ‘Age’, 208 and passim. 40. Rechtsquellen Bern, esp. pt 1, vol. 8/1, 198–255; Schilling et al., eds, Policey- ordnungen. For archival collections, see BayHStA, Mandatensammlung, and StAB, A I 479–, Mandatenbücher. The reference to public houses in 1244 in Weiland, ed., Constitutiones, 575. On the relationship between police state and local society, see most recently Blickle, ed., Policey, and Holenstein, Gute Policey. 41. Müller-Wirthmann, ‘Raufhändel’; Tlusty, ‘Violence’; and most recently the essay collection Eriksson and Krug-Richter, eds, Streitkulturen. 42. GANC, vol. 1–3 (1650–); SAD, Amtliche Bestände, RPr (1637–). 43. Dramatically evident at Augsburg during the Thirty Years’ War: Tlusty, Bacchus, 176–9. In Bavaria, alcoholic beverages were subject to both Umgeld and Aufschlag (BayHStA, Kurbayern Geheimes Landesarchiv, Nr. 1344, f. 663 [1612]), while Bern collected only the former (StAB, B VIII: Zoll und Ohmgeld). 44. The records of the lordship of Spiez have been deposited in StAB, HA Spiez [Depot Haller]; materials for Perlach and Ramersdorf survive in StAM, Hofkastenamt München. A similar body of documentation is analysed in Müller, ‘Nobility’. 45. Used e.g. in Rageth-Fritz, Falken, appendices 4.9–10 (Falcon, Bern); Heiss, Weg, 25, 36 (Elephant, Bressanone, South Tyrol); and Pennington, ‘Inns’, 121–7 (Spread Eagle, Midhurst, Sussex). 46. Extensive local fact-finding preceded the two Bernese registers of 1628 and 1789. The reports and documentation submitted by officials in 1626 and 1786 survive Notes 199

in StAB, B V 141/147. An extraordinarily detailed account book, kept by the publican Hans von Herblingen of Thun around 1400, informs Bartlome, Rechnungsbücher. 47. Taylor, Works; for a survey of German literary approaches, see Kaemena, Literatur. 48. Kaisersberg, ‘Gluttony’; Luther, ‘Moderation’; Guarinonius, Verwüstung (quote). 49. Detailed surveys and extracts for Bern in Beer, Travellers; and for Bavaria in Dussler, ed., Reisen; for the state of research and methodical problems, see e.g. Maurer, ed., Reiseforschung. 50. Among the most seminal works with information on public houses were Zeiller, Itinerarium (published as early as 1632) and Ebel, Anleitung, a popular guide for early ‘tourists’ in Switzerland around 1800; for a discussion of early modern travel aids, see Behringer, Kommunikationsrevolution, 485–512 and passim. 51. Iconography from such works informs the description of Artois taverns in Muchembled, Violence, 201–2. For sixteenth-century representations, see e.g. Geisberg, ed., Woodcut, vol. 2, 132 (Barthel Beham, ‘Country Fair’, 1534). 52. Zeiller, Topographia Helvetiae and Topographia Bavariae. 53. Blickle, Kommunalismus, vol. 2, 359.

Part I

1. Meiners, Briefe, pt 1, 101. 2. Löw, Raumsoziologie, esp. 271–3. On the social construction of reality and the creation of meaning as a social process: Berger and Luckmann, Knowledge, esp. 151.

Chapter 1 Settings

1. ‘The public house as such does not exist’: Hauser, ‘Wirtshaus’, 209. 2. Early modern travellers were aware of these differences: Moryson, Itinerary, iii. 85. Regional analyses in Kachel, Herberge, 167–90, and Hirschfelder, Alkoholkonsum, vol. 2, 25–31; on wine-growing areas, see Scott, ‘Viticulture’. A minor Bavarian speciality was Met or mead, a kind of honey-wine available from waxmakers: Hanke, ‘Lebzelter’. 3. On climate change and other reasons for the rise of beer in Bavaria, see Behringer, Spaten-Brauerei, 25–88; Tlusty, ‘Brandy and gin’. 4. StAB, B V 142, p. 43 (1628); B V 147, p. 11 (1786). 5. With regard to establishments at Puch, Emering and Olching in 1580: BayHStA, StV 1853, f. 81v. 6. SAD, RPr, 13.11.1642; 29.7.1648; 13.11.1650, etc. Similarly, in rural Zurich, keepers of vineyards were allowed to sell wine to customers in the street, but not for consumption on the premises: Escher, ed., ‘Wirtshäuser’, 239. 7. Heiss, Weg, 14–15. Yet other types of taverns had seasonal concessions, e.g. at Lécherette (Bernese Vaud) for the peak summer travel season (StAB, B V 144, p. 100), or permissions to follow demand, as the mobile wine sellers who attended the various feast days in Piedmontese communities (Cherubini, ‘Taverna’, 217). 8. Behringer, Spaten-Brauerei, 38 (Munich); Böhne, ‘Brauereien’, 103 (Bruck); Hanke, ‘Zieglerbräu’, 145 (Dachau); Dirlmeier, ‘Brauwesen’; BayHStA, StV 1853, f. 124r (Monastery of Seemanshausen). The former monastery of Weihenstephan near Freising, which obtained brewing rights in 1040, has a 200 Notes

good claim to the coveted title of the oldest operational brewery in the world (www.brauerei-weihenstephan.de). Bavaria did not follow the northern European trend to separate brewing and retailing in the sixteenth century: Unger, Beer, 218. 9. BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 435 (Mühldorf), 605 (Viechtach, both 1806). 10. StAB, B V 147, p. 1260. 11. Council decree of 14 May 1776 recorded in StAB, B V 142, pp. 73–4. For the ‘rooted’ character of inns, cf. Heiss, ‘Gastwirtinnen’, 53 (Tyrol), and Frieser, Wirtshäuser, 70–1 (Nuremberg). 12. This was an explicit condition of the ﬁef (feudal tenure): StAB, B V 144, pp. 44–5 (1743). 13. BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 77. The local monopoly of inns appears already in the Bavarian Landfrieden (Public Peace) of 1244: Weiland, ed., Constitutiones, 575. Princes claimed exclusive concession rights, albeit not wholly successfully: Maximilian, Codex, part 2, ch. 8, §17 (1756). 14. Kreittmayr, Anmerkungen, 802 (1758). At Ebersberg, beer houses were allowed to seat guests and to stage the occasional dance event, but Tafernwirte (innkeepers) retained the monopoly over weddings and similar feasts: BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 194 (1806). 15. Carlin, ‘Fast foods’, 27–8. 16. See the colourful description of lords, gentlemen and distinguished foreigners enjoying the experience of London cook shops, ‘where it is very common to go and chuse upon the Spit the Part you like, and to eat it there’, in Misson, Travels, 146 (c. 1700). A bias towards lower social groups has been observed for Nuremberg: Frieser, Wirtshäuser, 70. 17. Ground plans of several London cook shops appear among the surveys com- piled by Ralph Treswell in 1610: Schoﬁeld, ed., Surveys, nos 25, 46. A long- term case study of the ‘sausage kitchen’ at Regensburg in South Germany, documented since at least 1492, in: Handel, ‘Wurstküche’. 18. In 1639, the town council of Dachau licensed Sigmundt Mathes, a butcher, to run a cook shop without the right to sell alcohol: SAD, RPr, 16.9.1639; at Lausanne (Vaud) in the late 1780s, traiteurs catered for pedestrians, ‘while fetching wine in pots from a tavern’: StAB, B V 147, p. 879. 19. To cite from a wealth of anecdotal evidence, sixteenth-century Rome needed to feed large numbers of clergymen and pilgrims (Kersting, ‘Esskultur’, 34); Amsterdam cook shops catered for travellers arriving at odd times (Wille- brand, Reisen, 105; 1758); and Vienna’s late eighteenth-century Traktierhäuser offered soups, meat and side-dishes of variable quality (Röder, Reisen, vol. 1, 331). Ancien régime Paris operated a particularly complex system of rôtisseurs, patissiers, traiteurs etc, with rigorous demarcations between the services they were allowed to offer: Spang, Restaurant, 7–11. 20. Pennell, ‘Eating out’, 239. London even had a ‘Cooks’ Company’, chartered in 1482: ibid., 235. 21. Spang, Restaurant. In German-speaking Europe, restaurants only established themselves in the industrial age: Drummer, ‘Restaurant’. 22. Sandgruber, Konsumgesellschaft, 192–3; cf. most recently Ellis, Coffee House. 23. Prinz, Geschichte, 242 (Munich); Reinach, Schweizerreise, 53–4, 112 (Bern). 24. Norms and practice governing the behaviour of men and women in English coffee-houses are examined in Cowan, ‘Gender’. Lower social groups were catered for by cheaper coffee lounges and mobile street sellers: Sandgruber, Konsumgesellschaft, 194–5. Notes 201

25. Misson, Travels, 39–40 (published 1719). 26. For critiques, see Rau and Schwerhoff, ‘Themen’, 13–19, and Chapter 6 below. According to Carl Philip Moritz, who visited London in 1782, ‘quietness’ was the rule in coffee-houses. Most people ‘read the papers and nobody disturbs another’: Journeys, 72. 27. Cowan, ‘Coffeehouse’, esp. 46. 28. StAB, B V 143, p. 7 (in a formulation of 1688 referring to Schlegweg, but valid ‘to keepers of bathing places in general’). Bavarian establishments like Mariabrunn in the district of Dachau, in contrast, appear to have concen- trated on their medicinal functions: Westenrieder, ‘Dachau’, 297. 29. StAB, A V 1291, pp. 683–4. 30. GANC, vol. 1.1, c. January 1674. 31. A survey of individual establishments and medical aspects in Lüthi, Mineralbäder. 32. Gercken, Reisen, pt 2, 224; for a (partly enthusiastic and partly bemused) early seventeenth-century description of Baden’s bathing inns, their facilities and the informal mingling of the sexes, see Coryate, Crudities, 398–405. 33. Matheus, ed., Badeorte; Lotz-Heumann, ‘Kurorte’. 34. See e.g. the separate ordinances/rules in Rechtsquellen Bern, part 1, vol. 8/1, and the distinct chapters in the eighteenth-century description of Gruner, Bern. 35. Fouquet et al., eds, Geschlechtergesellschaften. A Swiss case study, relating to an apprentices’ hall, in Niederhäuser and Wild, ‘Gesellentrinkstube’. 36. A register in Cordes, Stuben, 229–316. There were 27 public houses named Maison de Ville in eighteenth-century Vaud alone: Radeff, ‘Auberges’, 131. Travellers interpreted accommodation ‘under the protection of the state and the crest of power’ as a public commitment to hospitality: Robert, Reise, vol. 1, 58–9. 37. Information on the two village-halls-cum-inns at Saanen in StAB, B V 144, p. 101 (1744), and ibid., B V 148, p. 12 (1789). ‘Almost all communes in the French lands’, according to a Bernese ofﬁcial in 1786, ‘let their [mayors] sell wine in their village halls’ (ibid., B V 147, p. 1260). 38. Cited in Herbers and Plötz, eds, Pilgerfahrten, 266. 39. The relevant ordinances of 1559 and 1759 are edited in Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 2, vol. 7, 355–60. Yet more romantic accommodation was available in wooden alpine huts, where travellers slept in haystacks and lived off dairy products: Wyttenbach, Anleitung, 11, 14–15 (Wengernalp in the Bernese Oberland). 40. There was no proper hospitium (as on the summit of the pass), but the fathers immediately treated their visitors to bread and wine: Goethe, ‘Briefe’, 639. 41. Ebel, Anleitung, pt 2, 93 (Lausanne; one well-frequented address in 1790 was the house of the reformed preacher Bugnon: Steinbrenner, Reise, pt 1, 123); Heinzmann, Bern, vol. 2, 264. 42. BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 583 (1806). 43. Willebrandt, Reisen, 105 (Amsterdam, 1758); Röder, Reisen, 330 (late eighteenth-century Vienna). 44. Moryson saw people carousing on stone tables under shady trees at Zurich in 1595: Itinerary, pt 1, 26; pt 3, 68; Brennan, ‘Guinguettes’; for an early eighteenth-century ‘garden for accommodating drinkers’ in Dachau, see Kübler, Alt-Dachau, 62. 45. Röder, Reisen, 399 (Vienna); Albrecht, ‘Braunschweig’, 245. 202 Notes

46. Gruner, Bern, 405 (1732). Many English alehouses also provided rudimentary accommodation: Clark, Alehouse, 135. 47. He visited over 100 different establishments in London and Westminster alone: Latham and Matthews, eds, Diary, vol. 11: Index, entry ‘taverns’. 48. Tlusty, ‘Military culture’, 137, n. 5. 49. StAB, B V 148, p. 16 (Schmidigen); B V 143, p. 19 and B V 148, p. 13 (Eggiwil); B V 147, pp. 920–1 (Montpreveyres). 50. See e.g. the case study of Cologne: Hirschfelder, ‘Gastgewerbe’, esp. 330–3. 51. On the relative scarcity of hostelries in early modern Scotland: Fenton, ‘Travellers’, 76. Synergies between pilgrimages and public houses are high- lighted in Hersche, ‘Lustreise’. 52. Rechtsquellen Bern, vol. 8/1, 209. 53. Escher, ed., ‘Wirtshäuser’; for the suppression of disorderly alehouses in early Stuart England, see e.g. Wrightson and Levine, Terling, 134–9; Slack, ed., Salisbury, 122. 54. BayHStA, Mandatensammlung, 1533/XI/11 (1533). 55. Due to the large size of the 1806 register, typological analysis was carried out for a (regionally diverse) sample of about a fifth of all establishments, i.e. those appearing on the first 200 pages. 56. The publican of Frieswil obtained a glass window from the Bernese council in 1545 (Haller, ed., Rathsmanuale, vol. 1, 137) and operated – according to the 1688 register – since ‘time immemorial’ (StAB, B V 143, p. 12). The first of a series of references to a tavern at Thörishaus comes in the council minutes of 30 September 1641 (ibid., A II 394, p. 135). Complaints about clerical wine sales at Neuenegg emerge as early as 1512 (Haller, ed., Rathsmanuale, vol. 3, 117). Concern over illegitimate taverns along the highway in council minutes for 12 August 1611: StAB, A II 333, p. 93. 57. For Dachau: SAD, RPr, passim; the estimate for Fürstenfeldbruck in Drexler, Kellnerin, 9. 58. For a discussion of English registers and extrapolation methodologies, see Chartres, ‘Age’, 207. Clark, ‘Alehouse’, 43–4, had arrived at marginally different figures. 59. Behringer, Spaten-Brauerei, 48–57. Roberts, ‘Alehouses’, 49. 60. Dubler, Handwerk, 291 (353:1 in the Swiss City Republic of Lucerne); Peyer, Gastlichkeit, 268 (360:1 in the territory of Zurich 1634); Tanner, Appenzell, 302. 61. Several public houses in and around Dachau were damaged or destroyed as a consequence of direct and indirect repercussions of the War, e.g. the beer house of Simon Mezger and the cook shop of Simon Mathes at Dachau in late 1646 (Kübler, Dachau, 10–11). The inn at Neuherberg between Dachau and Munich ‘decayed into utter ruin after the hostile invasions’ in the early 1630s (BayHStA, HR I 235/149 (2), f. 329v). 62. A clear indication is the fact that in the French-speaking Vaud, the ‘unad- justed’ per capita ratio in 1789 was much lower (302:1) than in Bern as a whole (394:1) and the German-speaking part (471:1) in particular. 63. Inns named e.g. in a tax register of 1797 (SAB, A 755, pp. 13–15); estimates regarding cellar taverns vary dramatically, but a well-informed contemporary description listed 145 (Heinzmann, Bern, vol. 2, 72); population figures for the city (e.g. 13,681 in 1764) and much additional statistical material for early modern Bern can be found in the online database BernHist (http://www.bernhist.ch/). Notes 203

64. Public houses listed in StAB, B V 147, p. 243; population figure for parish of Laupen 1764: ibid., B III 207, no. 39. 65. Five inns and 15 taverns (StAB, B V 148, p. 19) for 1,939 inhabitants (Meier et al., Aargau, Data CD). 66. Hoffmann, Städte, 138 (34,277 inhabitants in 1794) and 472 (owners of hostelries). 67. The standard text on Dachau’s demography lists 130 households in 1648 and recommends a multiplier of 5.3 (Scheidl, ‘Bevölkerungsentwicklung’, 364, 373), the 1794 population figure in Hoffmann, Städte, 138. Numbers of publicans in SAD, Kammerrechnung 1650, f. 18v, and ibid., 1806, f. 4v–5v. 68. Seventeen publicans serving 1,000 people at Moosburg, which the Bavarian official thought ‘too much’ (BayHStA, GR 878/186, pp. 476, 483); only six public houses (ibid., p. 790), however, catered for 2,587 inhabitants at Landsberg, where provision had contracted substantially in the seventeenth century (at one stage, there had been 30 innkeepers in town: Hoffmann, Städte, 138, 251). 69. Hirschfelder, Alkoholkonsum, vol. 2, 32 (Aachen); Brennan, Drinking, 76 (Paris); Heiss, ‘Tyrol’, 167 (Bressanone and Innsbruck). 70. Three inns and two taverns, the latter run by the lord and (occasionally) the minister (StAB, B V 144, p. 129) for 467 souls (BernHist). 71. Four publicans swore an oath of office before the Köniz consistory in 1764, when the parish numbered 2,115 souls (Gugger, Köniz, 63, 114); Rütte, ‘Gewerbe’, 100, 105 (Thurnen); two publicans served 105 households at Reitnau in 1797 (StAB, B V 147, p. 277). 72. BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 86 (assuming a multiplier of 5.3); in the 1790s, the parish of Cramond (Scotland) had seven alehouses for 1,340 souls and that of Athelstaneford four for 995 (191:1 and 249:1; Sinclair, ed., Scotland, 176, 456). 73. For nineteenth-century expansion, see e.g. Lemper, ‘Gasthof’, 167 (Görlitz), and Albrecht, ‘Braunschweig’, 300; for changing legal frameworks in Bern: Baur, Wirtschaftsgesetzgebung. 74. Number of pubs according to the British Beer and Pub Association (http://www.beerandpub.com/); population estimates for 2003 from the Office for National Statistics (http://www.statistics.gov.uk/). The high number of off-licences catering for the home/private market in present-day Britain surely explains some of this discrepancy. 75. Bernese population of 941,000 in 1996 according to the Statistisches Jahrbuch der Schweiz (Bern, 1998), 70; number of hotels: ibid., 298; 1789 figure for inns calculated from StAB, B V 148; population estimate for 1798 in Pfister and Egli, Atlas, 34. 76. Drexler, Kellnerin, 8. All in all, just under 3,000 hotels, restaurants, cafés, etc. operated in the canton of Bern in the last years of the twentieth century, resulting in a ratio of 314:1 and thus again a lower density compared to the adjusted figures for 1789 in Table 2 (Gebäudeversicherung, ed., Gastwirtschaften, 6). 77. Judging from a sample of roughly a fifth of all establishments listed in the register. 78. Rechtsquellen Bern, pt 1, vol. 8/1, 199–200. For a survey of common locations, cf. Benker, Gasthof, 69–76. 79. Westenrieder, ‘Dachau’, 271 (1792). 80. Queen Margaretha I of Denmark ordered an alehouse to be built every 4 miles (Ohler, Traveller, 91). 204 Notes

81. For a closer examination of the inter-relationship of key components of economic infrastructure (shops, markets, fairs and public houses), cf. Kümin and Radeff, ‘Markt-Wirtschaft’. 82. Further examples in Cordes, Stuben, 337; Holzem, ‘Kirche’, 448. For a particularly complex juxtaposition of churches and public houses, involving two neighbouring communities of different confessions on the Bern-Fribourg border, see Plate VI and Kümin, ‘Worldly tavern’, 29–30. 83. On a Bernese border atlas from 1710, the church and centre of Schangnau appear at considerable distance from the public house in the hamlet of Wald on the main highway: StAB, Atlanten Nr. 1–4, vol. ii, f. 223; Memmert, ‘Seelze’, 258 and map on p. 260. 84. E.g. the Klösterli in Bern discussed above. For ‘carrier inns’ just outside city gates Rauers, Kulturgeschichte, vol. 2, 705–93; concentration on entry roads: Verdon, Travel, 111. 85. Brown, ‘Public Houses’, Ch. 1. 86. Information on locations and dates in Kübler, Alt-Dachau; Hanke, ‘Zieglerbräu’; Richardi, Zeitgeschichtsführer; und SAD, RPr and ‘Nachlass Hanke’, passim. 87. Hanke et al., Dachau, 37. 88. For squares and thoroughfares as preferred locations in other early modern towns, cf. Jenisch, ‘Gasthaus’, 276 (Villingen in south-west Germany c. 1500); Tlusty, Bacchus, 22–34 and maps 1–2 (seventeenth-century Augsburg). Conﬁrming the picture of extraordinarily high per capita ratios in England, however, alehouses were ubiquitous in Shrewsbury c. 1625 (Clark, Alehouse, 70). 89. Map and detailed analysis in Moody, Burford, vol. 1. For changes in topo- graphical distribution over time, see Verdon, Travel, 110. 90. Hoffmann, Städte, 252 (Schongau); BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 287 (Trostberg); Gruber, Herberge, 41 (New Inn). 91. Details of the New Inn’s changing fortunes ibid., 37. 92. For chronology and technical aspects of the (relatively early) Bernese programme: Baumann, Strassenwesen. 93. StAB, B V 142, pp. 73–5, and Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 2, vol. 11, 916; similar permissions granted to the inn at Heimiswil (Emmental) in 1681 (ibid., vol. 9, 515), the Bear at Servion in 1767 (Vaud: StAB, B V 142, p. 44) and the inn at Uetendorf near Thun in 1789 (for a move from ‘the old to his newly built house on the spot where all local roads and highways intersect’: Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 2, vol. 11, 865); for a Bavarian example, involving the Fahrenzhausen innkeeper’s request to move to the highway in 1803, see BayHStA, GL 630/240/3. 94. Cranach, ‘Strassenkarten’, 18. 95. StAB, A II 622, pp. 129–30. 96. Clark, Alehouse, 64–7; Berry, Journals, 24 (Frankfurt); the number of beds in early ﬁfteenth-century inns at Aix-en-Provence varied between 3 and 20 (Ohler, Traveller, 93); Richardson, Inns, 32 (quote). 97. Affolter, Mittelland, [MS] 17 (I am grateful to the author for allowing me access to a draft version); the White Hart at Scole, Norfolk, erected in 1655 at the staggering cost of £1,500 was ‘one of the most ambitious purpose-built inns in England’: Barley, ‘Building’, 685. 98. Thiel and Mecking, Petershausen, vol. 1, 151. Extensive interior decorations survive e.g. in the recently restored public houses of the Lion at Jegenstorf (near Bern) and the Bear at Wildegg (Aargau, illustrated in Müller, ‘Nobility’, 179). Notes 205

99. Kümin, ‘Tourismus’, 290 and fig. 3–4. 100. Pantin, ‘Inns’, esp. figs 9.1 (inns of the courtyard type) and 9.5 (inns of block or gatehouse type). 101. Ground plans of such complexes ibid., 176 (Star and King’s Head Inn, Oxford, c. 1613) and passim; cf. Gräf and Pröve, Reisen, 167 (Post inn at Magdeburg c. 1690: yard with coach house, pantry and additional lounges). 102. Due to the growth of road transport and carrier services, inns often offered more spaces for horses (sometimes over 100) than for guests: Frearson, ‘Communications’, 280. 103. Heidrich, Wohnen, 32. 104. StAM, Hofkastenamt A 347, Schätzung of 3 July 1782. Original measures given in Schuh of c. 0.29 m. 105. Ibid., Protokoll of 24 July 1782. 106. Cf. the significant differences for sales including/excluding lands involving the Lion at Dachau and the inn at Moosach. 107. Present-day equivalents based on a restaurant price of c. £12/l of house wine/average price of a pint of bitter of 185 pence (£3.26/l) in the UK in 2002 (‘Beer and Pub Association’: http://www.beerandpub.com). 108. In the UK budget for 2004, the minimum wage was fixed at £4.85 per hour (£33.95 per 7-hour working day): http://www.inlandrevenue.gov.uk/ budget2004/pn01.htm. 109. Inns were not necessarily worth more than taverns (cf. the figures for Worb and Köniz). 110. Cf. the estimate for Perlach in 1782 discussed above; in 1622, the new owner of a public house in Laupen stated that he would ‘not have paid half as much’ for a house without innkeeping rights: StAB, A V 1111, p. 333; at Dachau in 1802, the privilege to run a cook shop changed hands for 300 f.: SAD, Amtl Bestände, Amtsbücher, Reg. 23, no. 189. 111. Holzer, Laupen, 99; at Sursee (Lucerne) in the sixteenth century, a ‘normal’ burgher house cost 250 f., but inns easily 1,000 f., even without lands and auxiliary buildings: Glauser, ‘Sursee’, 213; at Bondorf (Württemberg) in 1780, the Plough inn was valued at 2800 f., the highest figure in the village, with the mayor’s house worth 2000 f. and better farmhouses between 800–1000 f.: Maisch, Lebensbedingungen, 172. 112. Baumann-Oelwein, Haderbräu, 32; Lütge, Urbarsbauern, xi (quote), 54–8 (Kranzberg registers). 113. Figures and quote in Chartres, ‘Age’, 214–16 (half of all policies were for £100–£500). 114. While signs were reserved for fully privileged inns in most of Central Europe, English alehouses carried them, too: Clark, Alehouse, 67. 115. StAB, B V 147, p. 1263 (District of Morges in Vaud). 116. StAB, B V 144, pp. 116–17; in 1620, the council of Burgdorf allowed the owners of the White Cross to remove the inn sign and to resume trading at their discretion: Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 2, vol. 9, 220. 117. Caspar Müller of Niederscherli near Bern received temporary innkeeping rights in 1670 and subsequently petitioned for the grant of a sign in 1686. The request was granted on condition of good behaviour and payment of an additional rent of £4: StAB, B V 145, pp. 1–2. 118. Heise, Gastwirt, 56–9; in 1806 Kelheim recorded a Horse, Star, Sun, Farm, Hart, Cross, Ox, Pike, Eagle, Lion, Bird of Prey, Ring, Grape, Boat, Swan, Black Eagle, Angle and Lamb: BayHStA, GR 878/186, pp. 499–501. For survey works 206 Notes

on names, see Cox, Tavern Names; Jehle, ‘Wirtshausnamen’; Miller, ‘Wirtshausnamen’. 119. Stiewe, ‘Krüge’, 208 (Maspe c. 1750); Stewart, ‘Taverns’, 100–1 (Kermis); ‘Out of London, and particularly in Villages, the Signs of Inns are suspended in the Middle of a great wooden Portal, which may be look’d upon as a Kind of triumphal Arch, to the Honour of Bacchus’ (Misson, Travels, 302). Lavishly illustrated literature on signs includes Blavignac, Ensignes; Creux, Wirtshausschilder; and Schmid, ‘Wirtshausschilder’. 120. For an in-depth discussion of several Krüge in Lippe, see Stiewe, ‘Krüge’ and idem, ‘Krugwirtshäuser’; for Bernese farm architecture Affolter, Mittelland. 121. StAB, A V 1092, pp. 625 (plans) and 629 (description of the new building). The house was to be built in stone, with a small cow-shed at the back. A modified version of the project, combined with a butchery, was eventually carried out in 1744: ibid., 662 (for costs, cf. Table 3). 122. StAB, A V 1167, pp. 91 (prospect), 93 (ground floor plan), 95 (second floor), 97–8 (costs), 109 (decision not to proceed). 123. Ibid., A V 1073, pp. 28–9; for stoves as ubiquitous features of early seventeenth-century Swiss and German inns, see Coryate, Crudities, 387. 124. StAB, B V 142, p. 18 (closure); A V 1111, p. 337 (plea for continuing existence); A II 378, p. 320 (readmission). 125. Information from: Bauinventar des Kantons Bern, Amt Laupen, Murtenstrasse 66. 126. Sales information from StAB, B VIII 595, 1787–88, p. 6. 127. Tyrolean inn lounges appear in Gschnitzer and Menardi, Hausmodelle, nos. 29, 47–8; on extensive furnishings and decorations, see also Munby, ‘Oxford inn’, 290. Meyer, Wappenschenkung documents the widespread custom of window donations by the Swiss authorities; early modern Swiss inns had particularly rich holdings of decorated glass panels (often with portraits of publicans): Staehelin-Paravicini, ed., Schliffscheiben, xviii (cf. Figure 23). For painted portraits of hosts and landladies, cf. Plates III and IV. 128. There were nine tin plates in the inventory of the inn at Spiezwiler in 1774 (StAB, HA Spiez [Depot Haller], 8c) and according to one well-informed eighteenth-century traveller, silver crockery was on show and in use in many Swiss public houses (Meiners, Briefe, pt 1, 144). Glasses have surfaced in exca- vations of late medieval inn sites (Frieser, Wirtshäuser, 73–4) and no fewer than 242 appear in the inventory of the Klösterli tavern at Worb near Bern in 1792 (Kümin, ‘Worber Gastgewerbe’, 638). 129. StAB, B V144, pp. 139–40 (rights). 130. Dancing events, both at the Bear and the nearby White Cross (located closer to the bridge), are documented in eighteenth-century minutes of the consistory court at Mühleberg: Schnyder, ‘Mühleberg’.

Chapter 2 Agents and Interests

1. Todd, Protestantism; Schmidt, Religion. 2. Exceptions include the Swiss town of Solothurn and the Imperial Free City of Strasbourg: Kachel, Herberge, 147. Some Bavarian cities like Munich and Ingolstadt had publicans’ guilds, but the vast majority of inn- and beer- housekeepers operated without professional organization: Schremmer, Wirtschaft, 451. Notes 207

3. From 1455, for instance, publicans and tanners formed a joint guild at Lucerne: Dubler, Handwerk, 110, 432. 4. An early modern attack in Francis Osborne’s Character of an Host (1659; cf. Bretherton, ‘Alehouses’, 194–6). References to alcoholism e.g. in Platter, Lebensbeschreibung, 87 (Sarnen near Lucerne, 1529); Bräker, Tagebücher, vol. 2, 781 (St Gall, 1788). For a scholarly perspective, see Frank, ‘Publicans’. 5. Kobelt-Groch, ‘Täufer’, 112–13; Guarinonius, Verwüstung, 822; Beer, Travellers, 24 (Gilbert Burnet in 1685); StAB, A II 683, p. 496–7 (Bernese council in 1724); Spazier, Wanderungen, 234 (1790). 6. For the ‘rooted’ or ‘real’ character of these rights, cf. Escher, Recht, 19 (Bern); Beck, Unterﬁnning, 254 (Bavaria). 7. E.g. at Signau (Emmental) in 1517 with regard to wedding, funeral, anniver- sary and other banquets held outside the family home: Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 2, vol. 8, 168. 8. In return for slaughtering rights, Bernese inns usually owed the feudal lord a fee and – as explicitly stated for the district of Oron in 1789 – ‘the tongues of large cattle’: StAB, B V 148, p. 30. 9. Ibid., B V 148, p. 16 (Eriswil); ibid., HA varia 30, letter of purchase 1792 (Kiesen). 10. In the 1780s, the innkeeper at Tracht near Brienz contributed to the local ‘sick- ness relief’ fund (Siechensekel) and the taverner of Grindelwald to the ‘common purse’ of the local commune: StAB, B V 148, p. 7. At the same time, Twann’s keeper was charged with a contribution to the churchwardens: ibid., B V 147, p. 308. English towns often instrumentalized public houses for poor relief pur- poses: Slack, ed., Salisbury, 95–6; Brown, ‘Public Houses’, Ch. 3 (Southampton). 11. Fischhaber and Kröner, Langenpettenbach, 21. 12. BayHStA, HR I 235/149 (2), f. 327v. 13. For conditions in Bern, see the article ‘Bern’ in HLS. Figures for the 1806 register are based on a sample of about a quarter of all holdings. For quantitative analyses of Bavarian holdings in general, cf. Lütge, Grundherrschaft, 89–91; Rankl, Landvolk, 326. 14. A full list of keepers in Gruber, Herberge, 16–58; documents related to the petitions of Helena Sprengin and Paul Huber in BayHStA, HR I, 235/149 (1), f. 291r, 331r-v. 15. StAB, B V 144, p. 99. Similar formulations for localities in the Oberland and the Vaud, ibid., pp. 35 (Tracht near Brienz), 55 (Pully) and 58 (Morrens, etc.). 16. BayHStA, StV 1853, f. 182r (Abbach), 184r (Sinzing). For retailing rights of Bavarian brewers, see ch. 1 above. 17. Ibid., f. 72v and passim (many other towns reported similar customs); evidence from other regions in Unger, Beer, 48. 18. Rechtsquellen, pt 2, vol. 6, 461 and StAB, B V 147, p. 1058 (quote, 1786). For a fuller treatment of this topic, see Kümin, ‘Tensions’. 19. Heinzmann, Bern, vol. 2, p. 72; the quote in Wäber, ‘Bern’, 28; burghers of the city of Bern could sell wine ‘here in the capital under the sign of a ﬁr tree in pots, but not secretly in bottles or in hidden locations’: Rechtsquellen, pt 1, vol. 8/1, 123 (wine ordinance of 1739). 20. Krug-Richter, ‘Reihebraurecht’, 103. A comparable system operated in Eastern Thuringia: Schildt, Bauer, pp. 58 (n. 177) and 105. 21. Rechtsquellen, pt. 2, vol. 1/2, 124 (lower Simmental); StAB, B V 144, p. 126 (upper Simmental 1743, with additions of 1786). 208 Notes

22. Examples include the Zollhaus at Sensebrücke (Canton of Fribourg) on the border with the district of Laupen: Boschung, ‘Entstehung’, and idem, ‘Wirtschaft’ (cf. Plate VI); and the inn-cum-customs house at Maisteig north of Munich: Bogner, ‘Maisteig’. 23. Haller, ed., Rathsmanuale, pt. 3, 114–17 (Jegenstorf, Neuenegg, Ursenbach); StAB, B VIII 499, 15. August 1688 (Münsingen); and B V 147–148, passim (other examples). Münsingen’s minister earned over 2,500 artisan day wages from the sale of wine! 24. Grass, ‘Pfarrhöfe’, 149 (e.g. Navis and Gschnitz in the mid-eighteenth century). 25. StAB, B V 147, pp. 950, 1260 (1786). 26. Stiewe, ‘Krüge’, 225 (reward for civil servants in Lippe); StAB, A II 394, p. 135 (temporary approval of a ‘humble’ petition for tavern rights by Hans Rächen of Thörishaus near Bern in 1641); BayHStA, StV 1853, f. 66v (beer-retailing rights). 27. Roberts, ‘Alehouses’, 49; Capp, Gossips, 90. 28. Meyr, ed., Sammlung, vol. 6, 111. 29. Over half of fourteenth-century Avignon inns were not run by their owners: Coulet, ‘Propriétaires’, 124–30. 30. For context and sources, cf. Kümin, ‘Worber Gastgewerbe’. I am grateful for additional information supplied by André Holenstein and Jens Montandon. 31. Based on an analysis of public houses with explicit information on overlords: BayHStA, GR 878/186, passim. 32. Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 2, vol. 11, 340–4 (Thun); StAB, B V 148, p. 23 (Aubonne 1789); ibid., B V 147, p. 1023 (Prangins 1786). 33. Examples include the town of Lenzburg (Aargau): StAB, B V 144, p. 46 (1743); the council of Bern ordered the expulsion of all ‘foreign’ innkeepers in 1706: ibid., A II 609, p. 432. 34. Total assets in publicans’ inventories of the English town of Ludlow (Shropshire) range from £18 to £505: Lloyd et al., Feathers, 20 (1662–1750). 35. Examples from different regions in Müller, ‘Zoﬁngen’, 71, 101, 109 (90 per cent of publicans engaged in other activities); Vonbank, Tafernen, 7 (Austria); Linde, ‘Krüge’, 44 (Lippe); Clark, Alehouse, 74–7 (England). 36. In-depth analysis of a publican’s trading activities at late medieval Thun in Bartlome, Rechnungsbücher; for the frequent combination of innkeeping with agriculture in Bavaria, cf. Schremmer, Wirtschaft, 131. 37. Wrightson and Levine, Terling, 135. 38. Records of proceedings in StAB, Bez Laupen A, 207, no. 6 (1688). On the hazards of economic ﬂuctuations: Schindler, ‘Ehrbarkeit’, 70. 39. StAM, Hofkastenamt, A 347, e.g. petition of 1717 for a reduction of excise duties. 40. Ibid., A 352, protocols of 1 and 17 March 1755. Neumaÿr had also neglected his premises and agricultural holdings (ibid., 31 July 1753) and the authorities accused him of conducting a ‘ruinous household regime’ (ibid., 9 July 1753). 41. Ibid., A 347: petition by butcher Johann Burkhardt of 17 December 1759. 42. Schindler, ‘Ehrbarkeit’, 62, 72. 43. Hoffmann, Städte, 501–2; members of the victualling trades can ‘generally be described as very rich’: ibid., 342. A similar picture emerges in many other Bavarian towns by 1800: Baumann-Oelwein, Haderbräu, 47–8 (Wolfratshausen). 44. Rankl, Landvolk, 444. In an agricultural survey of the Munich area in 1596, innkeepers had disproportionately large holdings: ibid., Tables 25, 50. Publicans usually occupied the ‘highest social position’ among rural artisans and traders: Haushofer, ‘Führungsschichten’, 125. Notes 209

45. Wilhelm, Dorfverfassung, 146 (Essenbach); Beck, Unterfinning, 234, 250, 257. 46. Bogner, ‘Schwabhausen’, 307. 47. Tlusty, Bacchus, 40 (Augsburg); Maisch, Lebensbedingungen, 170 (Bondorf); Dubler, Handwerk, 288 (Lucerne). ‘In Switzerland, publicans often run their houses in a noble fashion’: Casanova, Voyage, 73. 48. The Zollbrück sign of 1772 is still in place. 49. GANC, 1 June 1676; StAB, B V 147, p. 290 (Walperswil). Ulrich Übersax of the Hermiswil inn sat both on the local ecclesiastical and secular courts: ibid., B V 147, p. 633 (1731). 50. SAD, RPr, 10 February 1637 and 17 January 1646. 51. Müller, ‘Zofingen’, 86. 52. Gray, Letters, 112. 53. StAB, B V 147, p. 166 (sale agreement). 54. Ibid., B V 147, pp. 794–5. 55. Heiss, Weg, 24–9. 56. Documented in detail in StAM, Hofkastenamt, A 346. 57. Ibid., nos. 1 and 1b. 58. Ibid., no. 5. 59. Ibid., no. 15. The ‘honourable former innkeeper’ Johann Dägn is commemo- rated by a tombstone near the entrance to the parish church of St Michael, Perlach. 60. Ibid., no. 24 (quote) and 25. 61. Ibid., A 347, 17 December 1759 (dilapidation) and 10 October 1782 (separation); BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 524 (1806). Other owners, however, could be highly supportive of their tenants: Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 2, vol. 11, 343 (sale of the Bear at Thun in 1728 conditional on confirming the lease of the acting publican). 62. Wiesner, Women, 96; cf. the specialized studies of Hanawalt, ‘Space’, and Heiss, ‘Gastwirtinnen’. 63. Hirschfelder, Alkoholkonsum, 316 (Manchester); Martin, Alcohol, 71 (Shrewsbury). 64. Rageth-Fritz, Falken, 62–6. 65. Bennett, Ale; this reflected a growing separation between large-scale brewers and small-scale retailers (without home production) in sixteenth-century Europe: Unger, Beer, 208, 218, 227. 66. Earle, Micro-cosmographie, 54. 67. Cambry, Voyage, vol. 1, 258–62. 68. StAB, A V 1111, p. 330 (1618). 69. As at Fürstenfeldbruck (Bavaria) from 1620 or Ursenbach (Bern) from 1644. Specifically on Bernese dynasties Ammann, ‘Wirte’. 70. Heinzmann, Bern, vol. 1, 54–5; Thomas Coryate praised the innkeeper at Brugg (Bernese Aargau) as ‘the kindest host’ he encountered on his journey in 1611: Crudities, 414. 71. Clark, ‘Society’, 53; Muchembled, Elite Culture, 119; Dülmen, Entstehung, 208; Beneder, Gasthaus, 151 and passim. 72. Spode, Alkohol; Wrightson, ‘Alehouses’, 1–27 (cf. Chapter 6 below). 73. Many of these are used below, but see also Vöchting-Oeri, ‘Gasthof’ (guest book with coat of arms and signatures of noble patrons); Roth-Lochner, ‘Grange-Canal’ (list of debtors); Johnson, ‘Sources’. 74. Bogner, ‘Schwabhausen’, 310; StAB, B V 142, p. 51 (Etoy). 75. For greater detail on this topic, see Kümin, ‘Patrons’. 210 Notes

76. Linde, ‘Krüge’, 36. 77. BayHStA, GR 1551/2, Heft 1788–89; Beck, Unterfinning, 255–6; StAB, B VIII 499, 1687–8. Evidence for per capita alcohol consumption: Sandgruber, Konsumgesellschaft, 186–9; in the 1790s, a half-measure (0.84 l.) of wine seems to have been a typical serving in Bern: Ebel, Anleitung, pt 1, 22. 78. Erasmus, ‘Diversoria’, 371; Meiners, Briefe, pt 3, p. 339 (Neuenhof inn at Thun); eighteenth-century London inns may have had an average of 40–50 beds, but rural establishments fewer than 3: Chartres, ‘Age’, Table 3. 79. In 1786, the Lippe hunting official Jürges lived at an inn: Linde, ‘Krüge’, 21. 80. One notorious tippler, who caused serious ‘damage to his household’, was Uli Freiburghaus in the Bernese parish of Neuenegg: GANC, e.g. 13 August and 27 September 1671. For the successful instrumentalization of courts and councils by women, see Schmidt, ‘Ehezucht’, esp. 296, 304; Roper, Household, 183; for tavern bans see Ch. 4 below. 81. Müller-Wirthmann, ‘Raufhändel’, 103 (Hölzl); on Weinkauf, cf. Hürlimann, ‘Konsum’, 156. 82. Müller-Wirthmann, ‘Raufhändel’, 95 (drinking during the day); evening attendance: Heinzmann, Bern, pt 1, 63, Brennan, Drinking, 170, and Rau, ‘Wirtshaus’, 220. 83. A measure (1.67 litres) of cheap wine cost 3 b. at the Weiermannshaus tavern near Bern in 1786 (StAB, B VIII 517, p. 4) and better wine 5 b., at a time when building workers earned c. 7 b. a day: Ebener, ‘Staatsbauten’, 221–31; cf. also Tables 3 and 5. 84. Beck, Unterfinning, 255–6. 85. On Sundays and feasts as principal times for tavern visits: Muchembled, Violence, 204; sixteenth-century illustrations of rural celebrations are discussed in Stewart ‘Taverns’. 86. Kümin and Radeff, ‘Markt-Wirtschaft’, 16. 87. Kübler, Alt-Dachau, 61, 97. 88. ‘Cabarets, auberges, tavernes, cafés et guinguettes représentent la plus impor- tante occasion de convivialité marquant le dimanche aussi bien dans les sociétés urbaines que rurales’: Beck, Dimanche, 79 (Sunday visits); GANC, 9 January 1659 (Neuenegg); Moser-Rath, Barockpredigten, 302 (early eighteenth century sermon by Jordan). 89. Rechtsquellen Bern, pt 2, vol. 1/2, 67 (year-round hospitality in Lower Simmental 1504); for closing times, see e.g. Linde, ‘Krüge’, 41 (Lippe), Rau, ‘Wirtshaus’, 219 (Lyon) and StAB, B V 147, p. 1263 (district of Morges); the city of Thun distinguished between closing time for locals (10 pm) and strangers (11 pm: Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 2, vol. 11, 266); rules on drinking days / time: Landt Recht Bayrn, book 3, title 3, art. 13 (Bavaria); StAB, A I 479, f. 235r (consistory ordinance); disregard of closing times e.g. in GANC, 10 April 1659, 17 February 1667, etc. 90. Erasmus, ‘Diversoria’, 371. 91. Heise, Gastwirt, 68–70; cf. the land law of Schwyz in 1501 (Kothing, ed., Landbuch, 150) and the common law principle known as the ‘innkeeper’s rule’. 92. Welti, ed., ‘Waldheim’, 93–4; Simonsfeld, ed., ‘Reisebericht’, esp. 246, 261. 93. Tlusty, Bacchus, 132–3, 149–52. 94. BayHStA, Mandatensammlung, 1627/XI/19, Art. 25; StAB, B V 144, p. 134 (Heimenschwand 1756). 95. At Worb (Bern) in 1556, sick people could be served outside normal opening hours (StAB, B V 147, p. 776); at about the same time, customary law in the Notes 211

manor of Niederaichbach (Bavaria) charged the local publican with house deliveries of wine to needy neighbours: Hartinger, ed., Ordnungen, vol. 1, 266. 96. Linde, ‘Krüge’, 20–1; BayHStA, GR 878/186, pp. 209, 515. 97. Swiss bathing inns offered a unique ‘melting of peoples and estates’: Heinzmann, Bern, pt 1, 251; modern historians draw similar conclusions: Teuscher, Soziabilität, 197; for the literary motive of the tavern as a ‘social melting pot’, see Earnshaw, Pub, 121. 98. Ortalli, ‘Taverna’, 68 (Lio Maggiore); Platter, Lebensbeschreibung, 39; Müller- Wirthmann, ‘Raufhändel’, 102 (Neuried); Meiners, Briefe, pt 2, 335–6 (Geneva); pt. 4, 267 (Soyhières). 99. GANC, e.g. February 1686 (‘boys’ at the Neuenegg inn); Muchembled, Violence, 204–5 (children in Artois taverns); Hartinger, ed., Ordnungen, 266 (publican charged to provide victuals for ‘old, weak and sick’ people at Niedernaichpach c. 1600); Ullmann, ‘Landjuden’, 306–7 (Jewish-Christian encounters c. 1700); Heinzmann, Beschreibung, pt 1, 63 (market days). 100. Landt Recht Bayrn, book 3, title 3, art. 1–2. 101. StAM, Hofkastenamt, A 346, no. 12 (1694). 102. Radeff, ‘Auberges’, 127–8. 103. StAB, B V 147, p. 1260 (1787 report); Moritz, Journeys, 110, 113, 139. 104. Gräf and Pröve, Reisen, 152–3. 105. Krauss, Herrschaftspraxis, 366–70 (hierarchy of tables in nineteenth-century Bavaria); Moryson, Itinerary, pt 3, book 2, ch. 3, 85; Guarinonius, Verwüstung, 846. 106. Welti, ed., ‘Waldheim’, 125 (Toddler); BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 667 (Vilshofen 1806); Bräker, Tagebücher, vol. 3, 262 (1789). 107. Arnold, ‘Wallis’, 499. Because of an outbreak of plague in 1529, publicans in the Bergell (Grisons) were banned from accommodating travellers: Hoiningen-Huene, ‘Bergell’ (1937), 196. 108. Heidrich, Wohnen, 106, 110. 109. Findlay, ‘Theatres’, 24–5, 40 (with reference to contemporary visual evidence). 110. Gercken, Reisen, pt 2, 236 (Zurich); Meiners, Briefe, pt 4, 92 (Geneva). 111. BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 29 (Wolfers); guests at the Small Convent in Bern included Elisabeth Singeri, a ‘maid’: StAB, B II 692, 15 February 1795. 112. According to the inn’s ‘menu book’ edited in Rageth-Fritz, Falken, 212–14. 113. Bräker, Tagebücher, vol. 3, 525; Linde, ‘Krüge’, 24. 114. BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 691; StAB, A V 1167, p. 83. 115. BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 706 (academics at Ingolstadt); Ullmann, ‘Landjuden’, 307; Marsh, Religion, 169 (White Horse); Kobelt-Groch, ‘Täufer’; Everitt, ‘Inn’, 111 (Northampton). 116. Beck, Dimanche, 81; Linde, ‘Krüge’, 35. 117. Tanner, Appenzell, 301; May, ‘Kaiser’ (Joseph II); Meiners, Briefe, pt 2, 345 (Lausanne); see also the roll-call of distinguished patrons proudly displayed on a plaque outside the Golden Eagle at Innsbruck, which stretches from Emperor Maximilian (1494) via Joseph II (1777) to Leopold III of Belgium (1976). 118. Bräker, Tagebücher, vol. 3, 519–20; Moritz, Journeys, 147, 176, etc. (1782). 119. Cited in Flatt, ‘Wangen’, 158. 120. Most recently Radeff, Café, 219–20 (more common in Bern than Neuchâtel); Martin, Alcohol, 62, 135–6 (more common in England than France or Italy); Karant-Nunn, ‘Kommunikation’ (differences between German towns), 494; the empirical evidence for all these assessments is anecdotal. 121. Medieval presence e.g. in Hanawalt, ‘Space’, 105, 109 (London); Hürlimann, ‘Konsum’, 150 (rural Zurich); for the marginalization of women, cf. 212 Notes

Dülmen, Entstehung, 208; Beneder, Gasthaus, 151 and passim; Hirschfelder, Alkoholkonsum, vol. 2, 306, sees the decisive shift much later, i.e. in the eighteenth century. 122. Landwehr, Policey, 245 (quote for Württemberg); Schlup and Giani, Auberges, 24 (‘une sociabilité essentiellement masculine’ in Neuchâtel). 123. Tlusty, ‘Women as Drunkards’. 124. Soubeyroux, Pauperisme, vol. 1, 197 (eighteenth-century Madrid). 125. Tlusty, Bacchus, 138–45. 126. Capp, Gossips, 321–3, 331 and passim; McSheffrey, ‘Marriage’, 984; for spatial approaches, cf. Gowing, ‘Space’, 138; Flather, ‘Space’, 177–90. 127. StAB, A V 1111, p. 673 (Kilcher); Linde, ‘Krüge’, 34 (wives), 17 (peddlars). 128. GANC, 16 January and 13 February 1681 (Marschall, Herren, Tschirren); 26 November 1671 to 10 February 1672 (innkeeper’s wedding). Explicit references to ‘wives’, ‘daughters’ and ‘maidens’ (e.g. GANC, 29 July 1666) make it clear that both married and unmarried women danced at inns. Evidence from other consistory courts in Schmidt, Religion, 133; Pﬁster, Chorgericht, 66–7. 129. GANC, 15 October 1752 (kermis), 4 March 1671 (Freiburghaus) and 21 June 1673 (Flühmann). In Catholic areas, public dancing was also restricted, but not banned altogether. At Engelberg, for example, ‘honest’ youngsters could attend dances at inns on approved occasions (mandate of 1730: Dufner, ed., Alt-Engelberg, 15). 130. Hürlimann, ‘Konsum’, 150 (Zurich); Tanner, Appenzell, 300–1. For London evidence, see McSheffrey, ‘Marriage’, 980–4. 131. Meiners, Briefe, pt 1, 315; Reinach, Schweizerreise, 63. 132. Guarinonius, Verwüstung, 841 (1610); quote by François de Frénilly (1787) cited in Beer, Travellers, 79; Meiners observed in 1783 that Englishmen in particular took their wives, daughters (and mistresses) along to the table d’hôte (Briefe, pt 2, 336). 133. One example in StAB, B V 143, p. 8 (tavern at Buchholterberg near Thun). 134. GANC, 31 March 1650, 23 August 1657, 7 May 1671, 26 June 1670, 15 September 1661; Heinzmann, Bern, pt 2, 234–41. 135. Gowing, Women, 15, 92, 241 (London); Earnshaw, Pub, 114 (literary sources). On France, cf. Brennan, Drinking, 146–51; Rau, ‘Wirtshaus’, 221. 136. This might be interpreted as implicit approval of a sexual approach: Rublack, ‘Metze’, 214, 216; after Ulrich Bräker had agreed to meet a girl at the Hart in Zurich, he agonized whether she might be a whore: Tagebücher, vol. 3, 202–3 (22 July 1789). 137. GANC, 17 February 1675; for more detailed discussions, cf. Beneder, Gasthaus, and Martin, Alcohol, ch. 4. 138. Lömker-Schlögell, ‘Prostituierte’, 59; Rechtsquellen Bern, pt 1, vol. 8/1, 205–7. 139. Junker, Gutenburg, 93; GANC, 31 March and 28 April 1650, 30 April 1665, 30 June 1664 and 20 August 1673; Tschudi, ‘Wirts-Häuser’, 125 (1719); the presence of whores became a topos in carnival plays like Manuel, ‘Weinspiel’, 238–9, 352–3. For the wider European perspective, cf. Martin, Alcohol, 58–78. 140. Maistre, ‘Cabarets’, 308 (1791); Casanova enjoyed a ‘girl-on-girl’ performance by two servants at the Matte baths in Bern and successfully approached another maid for paid sex at a Murten inn in 1760: Voyages, 138–8, 156. 141. Copia der Fürst Georgischen Land- Gesez- und Pollicey Ordnung (1562), in: Staatsarchiv Augsburg, Fürststift Kempten, MüB 116, f. 10v–11r (I am grateful to Peter Blickle for a transcript of this ordinance); similar claims were made in Bavaria: Kreittmayr, Anmerkungen, 804–5 (1758). Notes 213

142. Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 2, vol. 10, 493 (challenging alleged rights of the commune of Herzogenbuchsee in 1671); ibid., vol. 9, 527 (denying the licensing powers of manorial lords in 1682); StAB, A II 615, p. 456 (refuting claims by inferior authorities 1707); ibid., A II 651, pp. 134–5 (counting this ‘regality’ as part of territorial sovereignty 1715). Similar language was used in the German principality of Lippe: Linde, ‘Krugwirtshäuser’, 203. 143. Stürler, ‘Wirtschaften’, 19 (interpreting the territorial register of 1628 as a watershed); similarly Anne-Marie Dubler in Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 2, vol. 8, 521; and for Lucerne idem, Müller, 11–12. 144. StAB, B V 143, p. 32 (1688; bolstering his decision with evidence from land registers). At nearby Schöftland, where the lord had allowed two public houses not approved in 1628, the council grudgingly accepted that there was sufﬁcient demand to sustain them (ibid., p. 31). 145. Ibid., B V 148, pp. 24, 27 (Ligneron and Sullens, with explicit reference to the right to collect indirect wine taxes); B V 144, pp. 71 (Chapelle, based on ‘criminal’ jurisdiction, 1743), 113 (Oleyres 1723). 146. Ibid., B V 147, p. 361 (quote); cf. B V 148, p. 13 (Spiezwiler). 147. BayHStA, GR 878/186, pp. 91 (Lenting), 721 (Pfarrkirchen). 148. StAB, B V 144, pp. 16 (Burgdorf 1743) and 121–2 (rural territory); ibid., B V 144, p. 128 (Zoﬁngen); ibid., A V [Ämterbuch Aarberg A], p. 117 (1675; I owe this reference to Niklaus Bartlome). Loix du Pais de Vaud, pt 1, tit. 2, loi 4 (pp. 28–9); invocation of this passage e.g. in StAB, B V 144, pp. 13 (Aubonne), 39 (St Croix), 113 (Avenches); formal acknowledgement by the central administration in 1787: ibid., B V 147, p. 1260. 149. Ibid., B V 144, pp. 72–3 (Démoret), 114 (hamlets in Bellerive), 144 (Leysin 1743). The people of Amsoldingen near Thun had argued as early as 1389 that theirs was a ‘free village where everybody could sell wine’: Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 2, vol. 11, 725. 150. Ibid., B V 147, p. 888. 151. StAB, B V 144, pp. 32 (Frutigen), 100 (Saanen), 126 (Lower Simmental). The Upper Simmental dated the privilege back to 1386 (ibid., B VII 355, p. 103), and the district of Boltigen defended it in a ‘test case’ before the Bernese council in 1717 (ibid., A II 657, pp. 263–4). In the Hasli Valley, the inns of Guttannen and Gadmen were still in the gift of the mayor by the late eighteenth century: ibid., B V 148, p. 11. 152. Explicit emphasis on lower jurisdiction as the decisive factor e.g. in Burgdorf (Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 2, vol. 9, 449–50; StAB, B V 144, p. 120); numerous Bernese patricians, e.g. the lords of Münsingen, Wattenwil and Belp, counted tavern (licensing) rights among their manorial prerogatives: ibid., pp. 129, 130, 136; for Bavaria, see e.g. BayHStA, StV 1853, f. 254r (Aschach 1580). 153. Hartinger, ed., Ordnungen, 84–5, 164, 245, 310–17, 347, 174, 149–51, 179, 137, 266–7. As this list of examples shows, regulation of public houses took up a ‘particularly extensive’ part of customary law: ibid., 43. 154. Rechtsquellen Bern, pt 2, vol. 4, 112–13. 155. Ibid., 114–15. 156. Translation of a transcript in Potthoff and Kossenhaschen, Kulturgeschichte, 486–7. 157. Motta, ‘Albergatori’, 366 (Milan); Rubin, ed., Handveste, art. 50, 51, 55 (quote on p. 110), 87, 103. 158. StAB, B V 147, pp. 1142, 1002 (1786). 214 Notes

159. Loix du Pais de Vaud, pt 1, tit. 2, loi 4 (pp. 26–7). In 1583, the Bernese council explicitly acknowledged the city of Burgdorf’s powers over public houses in the latter’s rural territories: Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 2, vol. 9, 449. In 1745, Burgdorf reasserted these rights as ‘pertaining to civil or lower jurisdiction’: ibid., 450. 160. Hoffmann, Städte, 451 (period of decline); BayHStA, StV 1853, f. 153r (Neumarkt); SAD, e.g. RPr, 15 September and 9 December 1650. 161. BayHStA, Kurbayern, Geh LA 1344, pp. 460 ff. (gravamina submitted at the diet of 1612); Hoffmann, Städte, 121 (impact on police ordinance 1616). 162. Online transcript of Magna Carta in the ‘Internet Medieval Sourcebook’ provided by Fordham University: http://www.fordham.edu/halsall/source/ mcarta.html (consulted 7/11/2006); Weiland, ed., Constitutiones, 570–9 (Peace of 1244). 163. A classic study is Raeff, Police State. For surveys of more recent approaches in various national contexts, cf. Stolleis, ed., Policey and Blickle, ed., Policey. 164. One Bernese ordinance of 1530 argued that many subjects ‘were constantly in public houses, uselessly wasting all possessions, even though their wives and children faced famine at home’: GAL, No. 042: Mandatenbuch, p. 127; in Baden-Durlach (Southwest Germany) between 1690–1803, police ordinances referred to public houses 55 times and to the closely related topic of indirect taxes 188 times, placing both in the ‘Top 30’ of legislative concerns (nos 29 and 3 respectively): Holenstein, Gute Policey, 166. ‘No other space … attracted a similarly comprehensive body of regulation’: Rau and Schwerhoff, ‘Gasthaus-Geschichte(n)’, [MS] 6. A case study of one aspect (publicans’ liabil- ity for guest property) in Zimmermann, ‘Sachen’. 165. Koch, ed., Reichs-Abschiede, pt 2, 340 (Augsburg); BayHStA, Mandaten- sammlung, 1631/I/4. This was a pan-European phenomenon: see e.g. Scottish Privy Council decrees on inn prices 1553 and fasting rules 1568 (Burton, ed., Council, 142, 611). 166. StAB, HA Worb Bücher 10, pp. 26–7. For a (similar) oath of 1617, intended for publicans throughout the Bernese territory, see Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 1, vol. 8/1, 206–7. Evidence for actual administration to the innkeeper of Biberen (Laupen) in 1715: ibid., A V 1111, p. 393. Examples of publicans’ oaths in other territories e.g. in Brändle, ‘Wirtshäuser’, 25 (Toggenburg); Holzem, Konfessionalisierung, 400 (Münster). 167. Sometimes by a ‘solemn pulling down of the sign’: Bretherton, ‘Alehouses’, 196; an electronic version of the licence form is available on ‘Early English Books Online’ (http://eebo.chadwyck.com/). 168. See e.g. the wine assessor ordinance for Huttwil (Bern) of 1548: Rechtsquellen Bern, pt 2, vol. 8, 263; the commitment of watchmen was often lacklustre: Holenstein, Gute Policey, 485 (eighteenth-century Baden-Durlach); on visita- tion rights: StAB, A II 555, p. 76 (Bern 1694); Linde, ‘Krüge’, 7 (Lippe c. 1800). 169. For the ﬂood of Bavarian legislation on public houses, see Schilling et al., eds, Policeyordnungen, vol. 1, index entries for ‘Gaststätten’, ‘Gasthausbesuch’, ‘Gastwirte’ etc.; for Bern, cf. Rechtsquellen Bern. 170. Chavannes, Mireour, 171 (moral critique); Heinzmann, Bern, vol. 2, 227 (public houses as a ‘Kleinod’ for patricians); Müller, ‘Nobility’, 187–8 (Efﬁnger income). 171. Communal ownership documented e.g. at Markt Zwisl and Kösching in Bavaria (BayHStA, GR 878/186, pp. 51, 94) and in numerous Bernese towns and villages. Notes 215

172. Auctions to the highest bidder e.g. at Grindelwald c. 1700: Hartmann, Landbuch, 502; for communal Land-/Stadthäuser and Stuben, cf. Chapter 1 above; many village mayors sold wine in the Vaud: StAB, B V 147, p. 1260. Elsewhere, rents from public houses went to educational (Luins/Vaud: ibid., B V 147, p. 1016) or charitable funds (Schangnau/Emmental: ibid., B V 148, p. 15). 173. Ibid., B V 144, p. 64 (1743). Other communes also restricted keepers to the sale of local produce: ibid., p. 81 (Founex, Vaud), B V 148, p. 11 (Hilterfingen near Thun); cf. Schildt, Bauer, 104 (Thuringian villages requiring sale of locally brewed beer). 174. Hoffmann, Städte, 496; StAB, B V 148, passim. 175. In 1436, Duke Ernst granted Dachau the right to levy indirect taxes for the construction of a castle in the town: Hanke et al., Dachau, 40. 176. Details in BayHStA, Mandatensammlung, 1543/IX/12. See Rankl, Staats- haushalt, and – for the development of indirect taxes in particular – Kreittmayr, Anmerkungen [reprint Frankfurt, 1985], pt. 2, 743. 177. Snow, ‘Russia’‚ 199; Hunter, ‘Legislative framework’, 75 (England); Tlusty, Bacchus, 177 (Augsburg; in a sample of 35 case studies 1370–1622, the share of town income from beer taxes varied between 4.6 [Hamburg 1370] and a staggering 88.5 [Haarlem 1437] per cent: Unger, Beer, 197); Umgeld contributed some 7,600 f. (7.4 per cent) to ducal income in Bavaria 1511–13 (Rankl, Staatshaushalt, 26); in the Swiss Confederation, customs and taxes on victuals – chiefly wine – accounted for 14–28 per cent of total state revenues in the fifteenth century and 10–27 per cent in the eighteenth, with (wealthy) Bern at the bottom end of the scale: Körner, ‘Confederation’, 345. On Bernese state finance in general, see Altorfer-Ong, ‘Bern’. 178. Percentage range based on examples given in Dirlmeier, Lebenshaltungskosten, 62, and Scott, ‘Viticulture’, 108; in 1612, the Bavarian Aufschlag added some 9 per cent to a measure drunk at the pub: BayHStA, Kurbayern, Geh LA 1344, f. 659r–694r; extreme cases: Tlusty, Bacchus, 248 n. 78 (Augsburg), Unger, Beer, 244 (excise tax making up a staggering 86 per cent of the beer price at Lier 1698). 179. BayHStA, GR 1551/2, passim. 180. Blanke, ‘Reformation’. 181. Fuge, ‘Weinverfälschung’, 482; Kaisersberg, ‘Gluttony’ (1498). 182. Kümin, ‘Worldly tavern’. 183. See the complementary studies of Schmidt, Religion (quantitative analysis of consistory offences in Zwinglian Bern) and Todd, Protestantism (qualitative assessment of Calvinist Scotland). 184. Holzem, Konfessionalisierung (Prince-Bishopric of Münster). 185. Salmen, ‘Bauerntanz’, 106–7 (conflicts over dancing in reformed territories); for tensions over dancing in Bavaria: Hartinger, ‘Tanz’. 186. ‘Tavern affairs’ accounted for 7 per cent of Hofrat business in the first quarter of 1650 (based on a sample of items starting with the letter ‘A’ in the index to its minutes: BayHStA, Kurbayern Hofrat, Protokoll no. 307), and for 20 per cent of council business at Dachau in the same year (SAD, RPr, 1650, passim); extensive Vennerkammer minutes can be found in StAB, B VII 32–255 (1530–1798); governor’s files ibid., A V 935–1346. 187. See e.g. interventions for enhanced catering provision by the communes of Burgdorf 1636 (Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 2, vol. 9, 492) and Hochstadt 1765 (BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 115). Other localities lobbied for the abolition of 216 Notes

superfluous establishments, as at Joutens and Mésery (Vaud) in 1786 (StAB, B V 147, p. 901). For communal influence more generally, see the essays in Blickle, ed., Gemeinde. 188. In 1786, the governor of Nidau owed the inn of Lattrigen in the same district: StAB, B V 147, p. 291. 189. The problematic combination of innkeeping and public office was high- lighted in moral literature: Guarinonius, Verwüstung, 844–6 (1610); for conflicts of interests among English JPs, see Bretherton, ‘Alehouses’, 177. 190. StAB, B V 147, pp. 267–73. 191. Ibid., pp. 276–82. 192. Ibid., 263–5 (governor’s statement); 262 (petition to be ‘rejected’). 193. For the role of choice in the early modern economy, see Musgrave, Economy. 194. StAB, B V 143, pp. 9 (Jegenstorf), 30 (Hunzenschwil, Muhen), 3 (Uetendorf). 195. See e.g. petitions for reduced rent by the innkeeper of Wildstein in 1731–32 (BayHStA, Hofkammer München, no. 3321) and for lower taxes by the publican of Schwarzach in 1786 (ibid., no. 4299); in 1803, the keeper of Frankfurt’s Red House mobilized mass protests against higher excise levies: Eibach, Kriminalität, 166–7. 196. In 1646, numerous hosts of the district of Signau (Emmental) successfully complained against illegitimate wine sales by the Bernese governor (Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 2, vol. 8, 485); around 1800, the publicans of Stammham and Lenting ‘vehemently opposed’ the erection of a new inn at Hepberg, located roughly half way between their two establishments (BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 93; for a more detailed Bavarian case study, see Kümin, ‘Dachau’, 314–15). In Restoration England, however, publicans closed ranks against the rise of the fashionable coffee house: Ellis, Coffee House, ch. 4.

Part II

1. Emphasis on multifunctionality, e.g. in Peyer, Gastlichkeit, 116; Everitt, ‘Inn’, 110, 113; Rau and Schwerhoff, ‘Themen’, 27; Scheutz, ‘Gaststätten’, 201–2 and passim. 2. One suggestion in Kümin, ‘Useful’, 161.

Chapter 3 Subsistence

1. Not even the unusually scrupulous host discussed in Bartlome, Rechnungsbücher. 2. Glauser, ‘Sursee’, 210; at Pfettrach (Bavaria) in 1698, the publican’s profit margin on a beer price of 10 d. was 2 d., i.e. 20 per cent: Schranner, ‘Schankrechte’, 70. 3. Glauser, ‘Sursee’, passim and 219 (quote). 4. Beck, Unterfinning, 257. Turnover was considerably higher than at the mill in the same village (250 f.): ibid., 260. 5. Hoffmann, Städte, 534–6 (Bavarian survey); 359–61 (analysis of figures); Müller, ‘Nobility’, 187 (Aargau). 6. Cited in Kachel, Herberge, 82; in the early modern period, consistories in the Bernese Aargau fined publicans for ‘dragging [patrons] to the wine’: Pfister, Chorgericht, 61. Bavarian law forbade keepers to lure guests away from their competitors: Kreittmayr, Anmerkungen, 806. 7. Pictorius, Badenfahrtbüchlein, 75–6; Ogilvie, Women, 170. Notes 217

8. Gray, Letters, 196; cf. the heraldic symbols and testimonies in the early seventeenth-century guest book of the Wild Man at Basle: Vöchting-Oeri, ‘Gasthof’. For the medieval custom of leaving crests: Heise, Gastwirt, 54. 9. Dussler, ed., Reisen, vol. 1, 12. Around 1600, Fynes Moryson advised travellers to seek local information about the best establishments (Itinerary, pt 3, 19). Bräker chose Lucerne’s Eagle on a friend’s suggestion in 1794 (Tagebücher, vol. 3, 519) and Moritz obtained a recommendation to a Lichfield innkeeper from a chambermaid at Sutton in 1782 (Journeys, 148). 10. Tagebücher, vol. 3, 487. 11. As argued for eighteenth-century Bern by Rutsch, Schliffscheiben, 14. 12. Spang, Restaurant, 33; ‘Bon logis à pied et à cheval’ appears on the 1804 sign of the Ox at Münsigen, now kept at Bern’s History Museum, with similar slogans used throughout the Pays de Vaud: Radeff, ‘Auberges’, 127. 13. At Bulle (Fribourg) in 1791, in contrast, the appearance of ‘the sign of our inn … seemed to have been little calculated to promote the advantage of the house, as it represented Death with a wine glass in his hand’: Gray, Letters, 174. 14. A surviving board at the Red Lion (Adderbury, Oxon.) alerts travellers to the availability of good ‘fayre’, ‘capricious accommodation’ and the attractions of ‘very reasonable fetching wenches’; other English inn signs advertised liquour: Moritz, Journeys, 175 (1782). 15. Liebenau, Wirtshauswesen, 195–6. 16. Behringer, Kommunikationsrevolution, 482 n. 738. 17. Ritter, Weissenburg; for an assessment of the history and significance of the spa, see Lüthi, Mineralbäder, 103–8. 300 posters announced the staging of a shooting event at Bad Gutenburg in 1757: Junker, Gutenburg, 95. 18. Illustrations. e.g. in Potthoff and Kossenhaschen, Kulturgeschichte, 400; collections of eighteenth-century trading cards are kept at the Bodleian Library in Oxford and Waddesdon Manor in Buckinghamshire. 19. For the benefit of foreign guests, the French version elaborates that the latter are equivalent to the charges levied in France and the Empire. On innkeeper Johann Christoph Im Hof and his wife Anna Frischmann, see Potthoff and Kossenhaschen, Kulturgeschichte, 202–5. Casanova described him as ‘the famous extortioner Imhof of the Three Kings’, but enjoyed both dinner and company during a stay in 1760: Voyages, 73. 20. Moody, Burford, pt 1, 21–3. Similarly, dances, banquets and new beverages were advertised in the Braunschweiger Anzeigen around 1800: Albrecht, ‘Braunschweig’, 299. 21. Behringer, ‘Reisen’, 89 (with reference to the German original: Lehmann, Reisen). A Swiss equivalent was Ebel, Anleitung, esp. pt 1, 34; Germany’s most famous early modern guide to behaviour urged gentlemen to seek neutral advice on accommodation, as publicans’ propaganda could not be trusted: Knigge, Umgang, 216. 22. Briefe, no. 855 (17 October 1779). He referred to Wyttenbach, Anleitung. 23. Meiners, Briefe, pt 3, 318. 24. Gräf and Pröve, Reisen, 166. 25. Clark, Alehouse, 84; Glauser, ‘Sursee’, 213–14. 26. Twenty in 1782 according to Bräker, Tagebücher, vol. 2, 329. 27. SAD, RPr, 22 October 1653 (Dachau); StAB, HA Worb, M 70, vol. 1 (register of Worb inhabitants); Pennell, ‘Eating out’, 242 (London); Casanova, Voyages, 63–4 (Zurich); Lemper, ‘Gasthof’, 163 (Görlitz). 218 Notes

28. Fremantle, ed., Wynne Diaries, vol. 1, 78 (quote); predominance of female servants in early modern Tyrol: Heiss, ‘Gastwirtinnen’, 62. 29. Waitresses drinking with patrons mentioned in Beatis, Reise, 107 (1517–18); maids cited for dancing with patrons of the Bear at Neuenegg (Bern) included Madleni Jouner (GANC, 26 November 1671) and Gerdi Bunsch (ibid., 31 January 1675). Elsewhere, landladies and servants were reluctant to become too familiar with patrons: Tlusty, ‘Drunkards’, 195. 30. Guarinonius, Verwüstung, 824 (1610); Meiners, Briefe, pt 4, 180 (1788); ‘the most beautiful girls’ served at Kirchberg in 1773: Gercken, Reisen, vol. 2, 219. 31. Bräker, Tagebücher, vol. 2, 537 (11 February 1787). Servant Colete de Cour was caught in flagranti with a married man at a Lyon inn in 1438: Verdon, Travel, 115. 32. SAD, RPr 10 August 1801 (Kreitmayr); both Brandt (quote from Habermas and Hommen, eds, Kindsmörderin, 109–10) and Hürner (Ryter, Enthauptet, esp. 17–18, 26) were executed for their alleged crimes. 33. ‘Inn servants in France were the one group of women denied the right to sue their seducer if they became pregnant’: Wiesner, Women, 96. Ostlers, in turn, were often suspected of collusion with highwaymen: Bretherton, ‘Alehouses’, 182–4. 34. Glauser, ‘Sursee’, 213–14; BayHStA, HR I 235/149 (1–2), f. 327v. 35. No tips should be demanded at Meiringen’s Landhaus: Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 2, vol. 7, 379 (1755). 36. Moryson, Itinerary, pt. 3, 151; Brackenhoffer, Voyages, 33, 62, 57 (daily wage for Bernese labourer in the 1630s: Bartlome and Hagnauer, ‘Ämter’, 176); Dussler, ed., Reisen, vol. 1, 211. 37. Willebrandt, Reisen, 25. 38. Moritz, Journeys, 119, 148. 39. These estimates amount to 1–3.5 per cent of total population in the case studies (based on the demographic information presented in Table 2) and a significantly higher proportion of working adults. By 1700, ‘victualling- related employment … comprised the second largest occupational sector in [London]’: Pennell, ‘Eating out’, 233–4. 40. Kümin and Tlusty, ‘Introduction’, in World of the Tavern, 8. 41. Müller, ‘Nobility’, 188 and passim. 42. Störmer and Weber, ‘Weinbau’, 755 (with reference to the town of Miltenberg); Unger, Beer, chs 3–4 (north German port cities). 43. Tyrolean inns provided one of the ‘foremost distribution channels for goods from local production’: Heiss, ‘Wirtshaus’, 27; similar for England Everitt, ‘Marketing’, 559–63; brewing and distilling, of course, also absorbed a significant proportion of cereal harvests, e.g. 70 per cent of barley in England around 1700: Coleman, Economy, 119. 44. The public house has been described as a ‘hub of commercial activity’ in early modern Europe: Braudel, Commerce, 353; similar, for the medieval period, Peyer, Gastlichkeit, 223, 228. 45. GANC, 24 April 1664 (business deals); 12 February 1671 (negotiations with a servant); 11 October 1685 (smith waiting for custom and receiving payment). 46. Examples e.g. in GANC, 24 March 1667; Hürlimann, ‘Konsum’, 156. An early modern satire of the Swiss Confederation, based on a journey made in 1638, features a Weinkauf in a country inn: Veiras, Heutelia, 151. In Swabia around 1700, Jews and Christians also concluded their business deals in public houses: Ullmann, ‘Landjuden’, 304. Notes 219

47. Roper, Household, 185; Magnusson, ‘Drinking’, 314. 48. Motta, ‘Albergatori’, 369–70 (storage facilities in late medieval Milan); Kerntke, Taverne, 31–2 (market functions of medieval inns), 55 (evolution of a regular market out of informal trading at the inn of Kemnath); emphasis on public houses as roots of commercial or even communal institutions also in Braudel, Life, 417–18 (England, China), and Bresc, ‘Sicile’, 100 (Sicilian fondaci). 49. Kümin and Radeff, ‘Markt-Wirtschaft’, esp. 8–9; for Swedish evidence, see Magnusson, ‘Drinking’, 309. 50. Chartres, ‘Age’, 219. 51. Maisch, Lebensbedingungen, 173. Similar credit relations existed in early modern Switzerland (Pﬁster, ‘Klientelismus’, 43; Bräker, Tagebücher, vol. 2, 561) and England, where ale-selling ‘was one of the most competitive sectors of the economy and also one in which much credit was extended and lost’. In order to keep customers, keepers had to make loans on which debtors often defaulted: Muldrew, Credit, 310. On the other hand, of course, publicans were often heavily indebted to brewers and other suppliers of drinks: Unger, Beer, 219. 52. Zingg, ‘Olten’, 307 (a practice known as Schuldhaft); Hoiningen-Huene, ‘Bergell’ (1937), 188 (the sources speak of Einlager); for the wider context, cf. Peyer, Gastlichkeit, 246. 53. Examples in StAB, Bez Laupen A, 207, no. 6 (auction at the Bear, Wileroltigen 1688), Bräker, Tagebücher, vol. 2, 519 (currency exchange at the Lion, Lichtensteig 1787), Rechtsquellen Bern, pt 2, vol. 1/1, 245 (publicans accommodating pawned cattle 1796). 54. Musgrave, Economy, 35, 64, 201. For a similar regional perspective, cf. Radeff, Café. 55. McKendrick et al., Consumer Society, 1; for earlier roots, cf. Stearns, Consumerism, 15; Roche, Things, 16; and Tanner et al., eds, Konsumgesellschaft. 56. Styles, ‘Fashion’, 104–5. 57. Smith, Consumption, 152–4; Spang, Restaurant, 2. 58. Jacobs and Scholliers, ‘New taste’, 9; Teuteberg, ‘Restaurants’. 59. Unger, Beer, xiii (beer drinking as a ‘necessity, a part of everyday life’); Scott, ‘Viticulture’, 108 (wine as ‘daily drink of the bulk of the population’ in the late Middle Ages); Martin, Alcohol, 5, 19 (situational and gender variations). 60. Dirlmeier, Lebenshaltungskosten, 324–7 (around 1500); evidence for per capita alcohol consumption varies dramatically (between 56 and 1095 litres per person per year according to a compilation of data from 1372–1650 in Unger, 1 1 Beer, 128–9), but clusters in the region of /2–1 /2 litres a day, with a falling tendency after the sixteenth century: Sandgruber, Konsumgesellschaft, 182–9; a typical amount of wine for a meal at a Swiss inn in 1793 was 0.8 l.: Ebel, Anleitung, 22. 61. Medieval Bavaria had been a wine region (Zeiss, ‘Tafernen’, 206), but a combination of climatic change (the Little Ice Age), war-related devastation of vineyards and political support (esp. the elector’s wheat beer monopoly) led to a steady rise in the importance of beer from the sixteenth century: Behringer, Spaten-Brauerei, ch. 4. In the Dachau area, Swedish troops destroyed the last vineyards in 1632: Hanke, ‘Zieglerbräu’, 144. 62. BayHStA, StV 1853, passim; for the gradual proliferation of brandy and other spirits in public houses, cf. Tlusty, ‘Brandy and gin’. By 1800, the tavern of Johann Georg Höcht in the city of Straubing, offered ‘wine, brown and wheat beer, coffee and other drinks’: Bay HStA, GR 878/186, p. 726. 220 Notes

63. ‘There are a hundred and a hundred Sorts of Beer made in England, and some not bad: Art has well supply’d Nature in this Particular’: Misson, Travels, 17; for the rise of hops in general: Unger, Beer, chs 4–6. 64. BayHStA, GR 1551/2, pt 3, booklet no. 6. Sales volumes at public houses translate into an annual turnover of 19 litres of brown beer per inhabitant of the district: for a more detailed analysis and a list of individual payments, see Kümin, ‘Dachau’, 337–8, 342. Around 1720, the innkeeper of Unterfinning paid taxes on 1,000 l. of wheat beer, 3,340 l. of brown beer and 42 l. of brandy: Beck, Unterfinning, 255. 65. As already in medieval taverns: Carlin, ‘Fast food’, 31. 66. StAB, B VIII 374 (11 July 1691) and B VIII 517, p. 61 (1787–88; early modern customers, incidentally, drank much more white wine than red: in the city of Bern, red wine accounted for about 5 per cent of wine taxes at the Stork, just under 10 per cent at the Weiermannshaus tavern and a little over a quarter at the elite Falcon: ibid., pp. 4, 44, 51). Cf. the extensive wine menu of the Golden Eagle, Wittenberg, in 1722 (reproduced in Potthoff and Kossenhaschen, Kulturgeschichte, 38). 67. Gercken, Reisen, vol. 2, 282; at Fricke’s brandy house in Braunschweig in 1811, patrons had a choice of aqua vitae, ‘pommeranzen’ and cumin spirit: Albrecht, ‘Braunschweig’, 309. 68. Evidence for coffee, e.g. in Sandgruber, Konsumgesellschaft, 201 (Austria); and Linde, ‘Krüge’, 20 (Lippe). StAB, HA Spiez [Depot Haller], 8c (Spiezwiler). 69. Holzer, Laupen, 44. In 1786, Gümligen’s publican was accused of offering ‘such bad wine … that one had to fear for the health of his guests’: StAB, B VIII 392, p. 152. 70. Tavern observer John Earle compared tobacco smoke to ‘gun powder’ likely to blow patrons up: Micro-Cosmography, 34; Bern operated a total ban on tobacco ‘drinking’ from 1659–1719 (Merki, ‘Tabak’, 16–17) and continued to restrict use in public houses due to fire hazards: Rechtsquellen Bern, pt 2, vol. 3, 419 (Saanen valley, 1744). 71. As argued by Tlusty, ‘Brandy and gin’, 29; Sandgruber, Konsumgesellschaft, 211; and Merki, ‘Tabak’, 18–22; for a balanced assessment of a related English controversy, see Clark, ‘Mother Gin’. 72. StAB, B VIII 616, p. 6 (Sun); B VIII 517, p. 51 (Falcon); B VIII 595, p. 2 (bath- house of Blumenstein near Thun: 4,008 l.). The innkeeper of Spiezwiler pur- chased some 8,600 l. of wine from his manorial lord in 1747, 85 per cent of which was local produce from vineyards on Lake Thun and 15 per cent La Côte from the Vaud: ibid., HA Spiez [Spiezer Archiv], no. 78. 73. StAB, B VIII 517, pp. 1–52 (total of c. 80,000 litres of wine taxed in the city), 53 (c. 26,500 litres of beer); beer was stocked by rural publicans (see the list of deliveries by a Burgdorf brewery in 1794: Aeschlimann, ‘Biergeschichten’, 39), but sales in one rural tax district reached less than 1 per cent of those for wine: StAB, B VIII 595, p. 11. 74. At Norwich between 1560 and 1610, prices for strong beer rose by about a fifth, but by over 90 per cent for wheat: Clark, Alehouse, 104; for wine as a cheaper source of calories in times of rising cereal prices: Braudel, Life, 237. Friderich, ‘Sauffteufel’, exemplifies sixteenth-century complaints. 75. Hirschfelder, Alkoholkonsum, vol. 2, 66. 76. Drummer, ‘Restaurant’; Spang, Restaurant; Teuteberg, ‘Restaurants’; on its literary impact Becker, ‘Novel’; and Mennell, ‘Public sphere’ (gastronomic debates). Notes 221

77. Erasmus, ‘Diversoria’, 371–5. 78. Early modern inns offered ‘a no-choice table d’hôte, where food was put down in the middle of the table at an appointed hour and the best fed were the speediest eaters’: Levy, ‘Boulanger’, 6. 79. Beatis, Reise, 105–7 (1517–18); the following passages draw on Kümin, ‘Eating out’. 80. Carlin, ‘Fast food’, 27 (London); Roche, ‘Alimentation’, 16–17 (Paris). 81. Pennell, ‘Eating out’, 229 (twelfth-century evidence), 237 (term ‘snacking’ increasingly common from the late seventeenth century). For cook shops, cf. the typological discussion in Ch. 1 above. 82. Gercken, Reisen, vol. 2, 282 (Switzerland); Fenton, ‘Travellers’, 77 (Scotland). By 1800, breakfasts at Swiss inns included milk, coffee and sometimes wine, flour soup and other unspecified ‘bites’: see e.g. Ebel, Anleitung, 33. Brandy and pepper cakes appear in Bavaria around 1600: Moryson, Itinerary, vol. 3, 81. A typical afternoon snack in late ancien régime Switzerland consisted of coffee, ham, roast, cheese and bread: Gercken, Reisen, vol. 2, 282. For comparative ethnographic approaches to dining cultures in the past, cf. Flandrin and Cobbi, eds, Tables. 83. Gercken, Reisen, vol. 2, 206; Coxe, Travels, vol. 1, 397–8; Bräker, Tagebücher, vol. 2, 329 (Zurich 1782). Market evidence: StAB, B V 147, p. 548. 84. Both systems operated simultaneously at Ludlow (Shropshire) in the late seventeenth century: Lloyd et al., Feathers, 25, and in eighteenth-century Scotland: Walker, ‘Inns’, 130–5; cf. also Figure 12 with Plate XII. 85. Sandgruber, Konsumgesellschaft, 218–19; at Hindelbank (Bern) in 1793, the dinner set included several stacked plates for a multi-course meal and even a nutcracker: Bräker, Tagebücher, vol. 3, 470–1. 86. Monuments Vaud, vol. 5, 198; StA M, Hofkastenamt Munich, A 347, letter of purchase of 19 January 1736; Maisch, Lebensbedingungen, 172. 87. Sandgruber, Konsumgesellschaft, 219–21. 88. Jenisch, ‘Gasthaus’, 270–3 (Villingen); Hannig, ‘Hohlglasfunde’, and Endres and Millitzer, ‘Keramikfunde’ (Regensburg). For a sample of colours, shapes and ornamentation, cf. the title-page of Boos, ed., Wirtshauskultur. 89. Brackenhoffer, Voyages, 66 (decorative function of tin crockery in 1643); Meiners, Briefe, pt 1, 144 (use of silver for elite patrons). Top-level establishments like Bern’s Falcon invariably possessed silver crockery in the early modern period: Rageth-Fritz, Falken, 134–8. 90. ‘In the middle of the table [of the summer dining terrace, the publican] can let water spring from a fountain, which has fish swimming in its basin’: Schmidt, Journal, 198 (1786–87). 91. Moryson saw servants sharing their masters’ tables in German public houses around 1600: Itinerary, pt 3, 85. 92. No fewer than ten tables appear in an inventory for the Ox at Thun in 1687: Rechtsquellen Bern, pt 2, vol. 11, 340; during a dinner at Hindelbank in 1793, Bräker observed people sitting at another table (Tagebücher, vol. 3, 470). 93. Moritz, Journeys, 150 (1782); Reinach, Schweizerreise, 104 (1788); cf. the erection of partitions at the beerhouse of Ramersdorf discussed in Chapter 2 above and Gräf and Pröve, Reisen, 64–6. 94. Spang, Restaurant, 78 (Au Cadran Bleu, 1775). 95. Early evidence in Moryson, Itinerary, pt 3, 151; ‘M. Ott [owner of the Sword in Zurich] told me … that he would eat with me face-to-face in my bedroom’: Casanova, Voyages, 67; ‘most of the guests lived and ate in their bed- 222 Notes

chambers’: Walker, ‘Inns’, 135 (New Inn, Inverary, Scotland c. 1750); Knigge advised that private dining could appear antisocial: Umgang, 218. 96. BayHStA, Mandatensammlung, 1631/I/4; similar instructions already in Landt Recht, Book 3, Title 3, Art. 1–2 (1616). In 1646, towards the end of the Thirty Years’ War, the council of the Bavarian market town of Dachau imposed an upper limit of five dishes even for weddings: SAD, RPr, 10 July 1646. 97. Extract from a ‘Gesatz und Ordnung’ of 1729 still displayed on the premises of the Eggerwirt at Kitzbühel. See also the stipulation that ‘each keeper should give locals and strangers as much or as little as they demand’ (publicans’ ordinance of Signau, Emmental, from 1517 in Rechtsquellen Bern, pt 2, vol. 8, 168) and the range of meal options advertised by the Three Kings at Basel in 1754 (cf. Figure 19, bottom left). 98. StAB, B V 147, p. 776 (lease of 1556). 99. These arrangements constituted a (modest) variety of the courtly ‘French service’ described in Bode, Gastronomy, 109–10; ‘Russian style’ service on individual plates dates from the late eighteenth century: ibid., 112. 100. Rauers, Kulturgeschichte, vol. 1, 391 (extravagant provision); Ebel, Anleitung, vol. 1, 22 (Swiss meals at a standard rate of about 1 f., the equivalent of 2 days’ wages). 101. Lippomano, Voyage, 605. 102. The Bavarian ‘General Mandate’ of 31 January 1736 reminded innkeepers of fasting rules: Meyr, ed., Sammlung, vol. 5, 376. No ‘precious dishes such as game, birds or fish’ were allowed at the inn at Spötting near Landsberg: BayHStA, GR 872/175 (copy of a lease from 1759). 103. ‘We dined at The Bull’s Head [at Battle Market] on a rump of beef boiled, a loin of veal roasted, a roast goose and a currant suet pudding and an apple- pie’ (11 October 1757: Turner, Diary, 114). 104. Roth-Lochner, ‘Grange-Canal’, 45. 105. Jenisch, ‘Gasthaus’, 278 (Villingen); Hagn, ‘Abfallgrube’, 25 (Ratstrinkstube, Munich). 106. Fenton, ‘Travellers’, 73 (Scotland); Gercken, Reisen, vol. 2, 138 (Bavaria); Meiners, Briefe, pt. 1, 144, and Bräker, Tagebücher, vol. 3, 471 (desserts). Meiners, Briefe, pt. 2, 258, 383, encountered local fish like river trout, carp, pike and crayfish on the menus of Swiss inns. 107. Kümin, ‘Take away’, 79; according to the 1789 register, about half of all Bernese inns exercised the right to slaughter cattle and/or to bake bread and hundreds of their Bavarian colleagues did likewise: ibid., 76–7. 108. Crudities, 438 (1608); similarly – for various eighteenth-century contexts – Willebrandt, Reisen, 88 (advising against ordering a ‘separate meal’ in Dutch inns, due to much higher costs) and Beer, Travellers, 86 (table d’hôte system restricted to major Swiss towns). 109. Hidber, Stand, 18–19. 110. StAB, HA Spiez [Depot Haller], no. 26 b (bill from 1785); in the period 1779–86 menu prices ranged from 40 to 75 b. a head (the latter the equivalent of more than ten days’ wages for a master craftsman!): Rageth-Fritz, Falken, 212–16. 111. Benker, Gasthof, 193 (‘baroque’ menu cards); Ebel, Anleitung, pt 1, 33, and Knigge, Umgang, 219 (à la carte provision available in 1790s). Travellers to Vienna observed that ‘most inns served each diner separately, even if a twenty people ate at the same table’: Röder, Reisen, vol. 1, 333 (1780s). Notes 223

112. Pennell, ‘Eating out’, 237; London also boasted specialised dining houses for the theatre-going public: ibid., 236; Latham, ‘Taverns’, 416–18. Assessing English inns in general, a sixteenth-century observer praised that every man could have ‘how great or little varietie of vittels’ he desired: Harrison, Description, 107. 113. Linde, ‘Krüge’, 15–16. 114. Full details of the guild occasion, clearly an attempt to mimic court banquets, in Rageth-Fritz, Falken, 155–8. 115. Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 2, vol. 8, 521 (1649); the sign with the inscription ‘at this tavern people stop on market days for meat and wine’ is reproduced in Häusler, Dorfmärkte, 117. 116. StAB, B V 144, p. 92; A V 1114, f. 80v (Laupen’s part-timers sold no less than 2,200 litres of wine during the fair, about a quarter of the Bear inn’s annual turnover); B V 147, p. 584. See also Kümin and Radeff, ‘Markt-Wirtschaft’, 12 (Vaud). 117. Gruber, Herberge, 43–9. 118. SAD, Kammerrechnung 1650, f. 33r-34r; ibid., RPr, 9 March 1650. 119. StAB, A V 1113, pp. 795–6; ibid., B V 147, pp. 326–7. 120. Bay HStA, GR 878/186, pp. 214, 321; ibid., HR I 235/149 (2), f. 327v (New Inn); Drexler, Kellnerin, 31 (off-licence beer provison; see also Unger, Beer, 141). Around 1680, the Hebertshausen innkeeper slaughtered thirteen pigs a year, usually for church feasts and weddings: BayHStA, GL 629/240. For tensions between butchers and publicans in Dachau, see SAD, RPr, 4 July 1646, 9 September and 22 October 1653. 121. Misson, Travels, 145; other travellers asked pastrycooks to deliver pies to their hostelries, almost at any time of the day: Pennell, ‘Eating out’, 237. 122. Cited in Arnold, ‘Wallis’, 500; similarly critical Goethe, ‘Briefe’, 621 (with regard to an inn at nearby Sion in 1779). 123. Labat, Voyage, 133. 124. O’Callaghan, ‘Tavern societies’, 40. 125. Verral, Cookery. Turner describes a meal at the White Hart on 1 May 1764 – consisting of ‘a ﬁllet of veal roasted, a ham boiled, a fore-quarter of lamb roasted, 2 hot pigeon pasties, 2 raisin and currant puddings, greens, potatoes and green salad’ – as a particularly ‘elegant’ occasion: Diary, 292. 126. Gercken, Reisen, vol. 2, 150 (c. 1780); Platière cited in de Beer, Travellers, 56. At the Three Kings in Basel, Casanova enjoyed ‘a magniﬁcient dessert of con- fectionery’: Voyage, 74; similarly positive on Swiss inns Coryate, Crudities, 373, 387, 438 (1608). 127. Spang, Restaurant, 150; Mennell, ‘Public sphere’. 128. Andrea de Franceschi’s account of Upper Austria in 1492 ‘in some passages reads like a report of gastronomic tests’: Heiss, ‘Tyrol’, 164. 129. Laurioux, Gastronomie (Platina); Montaigne’s travel journals comment on the relative quality of French and German cooks and the use of butter (rather than olive oil) in Central European inns: Benker, Gasthof, 189, 196; cf. Ehlert, ‘Regionalität’. 130. Moryson, Itinerary, pt 3, 87. 131. Meiners, Briefe, pt 2, 258; Gercken enjoyed ‘a bottle of the exquisite red Neuchâtel wine, which matches that from Burgundy in every respect’ at a Wiedlisbach inn: Reisen, vol. 2, 206; cf. the juxtaposition of diverging inn standards at Unterseen, where the keeper produced an ‘exquisitly prepared’ 224 Notes

meal at short notice, and at Grindelwald, where food should be taken ‘only in an emergency’ and where the wine was even worse: Reinach, Schweizerreise, 72–3, 93 (all evidence from the 1770/80s). 132. ‘Introduction’ by Marie-Françoise Luna in Casanova, Voyages, 14. 133. O’Callaghan, ‘Tavern societies’. 134. Pennell, ‘Eating out’, 239. 135. Quotes in Spang, Restaurant, 26, 16, 2. Discontinuity may appear particularly strong in Paris due to rigid gild demarcations in its premodern catering trade: ‘no tradesman was allowed to combine [all functions] in order to operate what we today would define as “a restaurant”’: ibid., 9. Innkeepers in other parts of Europe operated under fewer culinary restrictions. 136. For a survey on modern inns, cf. Guggenbühl, ‘Switzerland’. 137. Benker, Gasthof, 169. I am grateful to Peter Spufford for his help in interpreting Plate XIII. 138. Platter, Lebensbeschreibung, 102 (1530); Herbers and Plötz, eds, Pilgerfahrten, 319–20 (1743); Gercken, Reisen, vol. 2, 219–20. Roommates sometimes strug- gled to find the right beds or to coordinate sleeping arrangements: Moritz, Journeys, 117; Bräker, Tagebücher, vol. 3, 471. 139. Butzbach, Odeporicon, 158; the fourteenth-century London suite included a hall, chamber, buttery and kitchen: Schofield and Vince, Towns, 75. 140. Moryson, Itinerary, 18 (Nuremberg); Berry, Journals, 24 (Frankfurt); the Golden Lion in the market town of Morges (Vaud) offered three bedchambers with a total of seven beds in 1666; the rural inn at Sensebrücke (Fribourg) four ‘superior’ rooms for better travellers in 1769 (Boschung, ‘Wirtschaft’, 702) and the Sun at Kirchberg (Bern) – located on a major highway – a respectable twenty different bedchambers (Gercken, Reisen, vol. 2, 219). Separate accommodation became common in England from at least the sixteenth century: Richardson, Inns, 7. 141. In late medieval Nuremberg, smaller establishments offered 2–6 beds, larger ones 15–20: Frieser, Wirtshäuser, 69; Rome regularly coped with mass demand: Esch, ‘Rom’, 444 (for example, 1468); there were 4 beds at the rural Saurenkrug in Lippe by the late eighteenth century (Stiewe, ‘Krugwirtshäuser’, 230), but 120 at Manchester’s Bridgewater Arms in 1790 (Byng, Diaries, vol. 2, 207); in eighteenth-century England, rural inns possessed on average less than 3 beds, urban hostelries around 4, London inns between 40 and 50 (Chartres, ‘Age’, Table 3). 142. Calculations based on StAB, B V 148, passim (total of 523 inns in Bern 1789) and Chartres, ‘Age’, Table 3. 143. Schellinks, Travels, 127; cf. Berry, Journals, 229. 144. Stable accommodation was the only option for a group of itinerant scholars including Thomas Platter in 1520 (Lebensbeschreibung, 40) and for Moryson in a rural German inn around 1600 (Itinerary, pt 3, 84–5). Sleeping in drinking lounges was still common in some rural areas of early eighteenth-century Lippe (Linde, ‘Krüge’, 31). At Appenzell in 1791, ‘we [were] obliged to sup in a room where some were in bed’ (Gray, Letters, 101). 145. Rural inns in early modern Aargau contained ‘scarcely furnished, unheated chambers’ (Räber, Bauernhäuser, vol. 1, 432). 146. Simonsfeld, ed., ‘Reisebericht’, 278. 147. Monuments Vaud, vol. 5, 198 (Morges); Stiewe, ‘Krugwirtshäuser’, 234 (Lippe; cf. the fireplaces documented at Interlaken in Figure 11). At Basel’s Stork Notes 225

in 1521, rooms carried names like ‘Bear’, ‘Strasbourg’, ‘Rose’, ‘Monkey’ etc: Stocker, ‘Wirthshaus’, 232. 148. Heiss, Weg, 43–4. 149. Cited in Beer, Travellers, 20; cf. Rauers, Kulturgeschichte, 253. 150. Taylor, Works not included, 6–9 (fleas in a bed at the Rose and Crown, Nether Stowey, 1649); Black, Tour, 55–6 (vermin in eighteenth-century French inns). A ‘soft and clean bed’, in contrast, awaited patrons at a rural inn near Gotha in the mid-sixteenth century: Kersting, ‘Esskultur’, 35. 151. Kübler, Alt-Dachau, 82 (1655); in 1814, patrons of the nearby Lower Brewery inn were banned from using the wall of no. 55 Augsburgerstrasse for the same purpose: ibid., 72. Cf. Lemper, ‘Gasthof’, 163 (patrons sent outside by keeper of beerhouses in early modern Görlitz). Urinating peasants feature in many tavern scenes by German and Netherlandish artists, e.g. Hieronymus Bosch’s famous ‘Pedlar’ of c. 1510. 152. Quote from Earle, Micro-cosmographie, 43 (1628); cf. Steinbrenner, Reise, 272 (chamber pots in bedrooms; 1790). 153. A gallery led to the latrine in a wooden annex on the upper floor of the Sensebrück inn (Fribourg) in 1473: Boschung, ‘Entstehung’, 77; for the variety of late medieval facilities, cf. Camusso, Reisebuch, 53. A stone exten- sion for use as a toilet, with three walls measuring almost 6 m in length, formed part of the building contract for the new inn at Spiezwiler in 1744: StAB, HA Spiez [Depot Haller] 20f (builder’s account); Casanova ‘read the stu- pidities you usually find in these places, to the left and to the right’ (Voyages, 156). 154. Innkeepers were officially expected to provide hay and straw for horses (Rechtsquellen Bern, pt 2, vol. 8, 495, 548) and allowed to differentiate between riders and pedestrians (ibid., pt. 1, vol. 8/1, 201; 1571). Medieval evidence for all-inclusive ‘food and accommodation’ fees in Bartlome, Rechnungsbücher, 90–2; eighteenth-century leases for the inns at Hellmühle and Gränichen (Aargau) still required tenants to charge in the same way: Müller, Effinger, 275. 155. Moryson, Itinerary, pt. 3, 54, 85, 91 (price examples); Bartlome and Hagnauer, ‘Ämter’, 176 (daily wage of 5 b. in 1630s). 156. A flurry of itemized charges applied at an Ingolstadt inn (Bavaria) in 1638: Komaszynski, ed., ‘Bayern’, 642–3; Bavarian law allowed patrons to ask for accommodation without a meal: Kraittmayr, Anmerkungen, 802. Higher charges applied for private bedrooms: BayHStA, Mandatensammlung, 1631/I/4, art. 10. 157. According to the accounts of the district of Wolfratshausen of 1663 in StAM, Hofkastenamt A 346; expenses rate for peasant deputies in Blickle, ‘Supplikationen’, 306; actual daily wage 1631 = 12 kr.: Schremmer, Wirtschaft, 136–7. 158. Typical cost of a Swiss table d’hôte c. 15 b. (Meiners, Briefe, pt 4, 297; Ebel, Anleitung, 22); the wife of the Lord of Spiez paid 15 b. just ‘for the room’ at a superior inn (StAB, HA Spiez [Depot Haller], 26 b); at the spa resort of Weissenburg, rooms alone cost between 10–20 b. per day in the 1790s (Ebel, Anleitung, pt. 2, 185). Daily wage for a craftsman in the 1780s c. 7 b.: Ebener, ‘Staatsbauten’, 221–31. 159. StAB, DQ 460, unpaginated (Kerzers); Rechtsquellen Bern, pt 2, vol. 7, 379 (Hasli; 7.5 b. could be charged for strangers). 160. Examples in Turner, Diary, 55, 37–8. 226 Notes

161. Regular visits were the preserve of higher social groups: Hirschfelder, ‘Gastgewerbe’, 330.

Chapter 4 Communication

1. See e.g. Rösener, ed., Kommunikation; Van Horn Melton, ed., Communication, and the general theme of the 45th Deutscher Historikertag (‘Kommunikation und Raum’, Kiel 2004). 2. To adapt a classic formulation in Laswell, ‘Communication’, 37–8. 3. Eisenstein, Printing Press. 4. Scribner, ‘Ideas’. 5. Schlögl, ‘Perspektiven’. 6. Kiessling, ‘Einführung’, 22; cf. Löw, Raumsoziologie, 271–3. 7. Postles, ‘Market’; Medick, ‘Spinnstuben’. 8. Summarizing Rau und Schwerhoff, ‘Themen’, 27 (inns and drinking houses appear as ‘the most important communicative and social centres’ in the early modern period). 9. Kümin, ‘Rathaus’, 262. 10. Behringer, Kommunikationsrevolution, passim (quotes ibid., 645, 42). 11. Ibid., 57, 72–3 (where n. 92 highlights the lack of systematic research on the phenomenon); on road transport development generally, see Livet, Routes. 12. Braudel, Commerce, 353. 13. Chartres, ‘Age’, 216. 14. Denecke, ‘Planungen’, 462. 15. Krüger, ed., Raissbüchlin (ﬁrst printed German travel itinerary of 1563); Taylor, Works Not Included (second collection); Lehmann, Reisen. 16. Cary, Atlas (with listings of postal inns); Riedl, Atlas; Bel, Carte. Brandenburg’s postal service aimed to provide a station every 15–20 km (Gräf and Pröve, Reisen, 164). 17. Contemporary estimates in Ebel, Anleitung, pt. 1, 67; in good conditions, German post riders reached an average speed of 7.5 km/hour in the sixteenth century (Behringer, Kommunikationsrevolution, 61) and English stage coaches around 11 km/hour by 1750: Richardson, Inns, 18. Pedestrians typically stopped every 2–4 hours (according to Stumpf, ‘Reisebericht’, 287–8, in 1544). 18. Moritz, Journeys, 105. 19. For the case study Bernese Oberland, see Kümin, ‘Kommunikationsrevolution’. 20. Postmasters were among the ‘most prosperous and well-respected innkeepers’ in a region: Bogner, ‘Schwabhausen’, 307. 21. BayHStA, GR 878/186, pp. 34, 130, 132, 144, 196, 532, 639 and so on. Explicit references to the ‘necessity’ of postal inns e.g. at Neumarkt (ibid., 425). 22. BayHStA, GR 878/186, 437 (Ludwig Weiß, postmaster and ‘therefore necessary’ publican; 1806). For members of the dynasty and further historical information, see the hotel website: http://www.hotelpost-ffb.de/thema_ geschichte_en.htm (consulted 12 December 2006). 23. Anonymous traveller cited in Dussler, ed., ‘Reiseberichte’, 45. 24. Baumann, Strassenwesen, 72. 25. Wyss, Post, 109 (quote), 88–9 (postrider Übersax); StAB, B V 144, p. 124 (evidence for Übersax’s tenure of the White Horse from 1740). 26. Welti, ed., ‘Waldheim’, 116–17. 27. Ibid., 105, 112, 128–9. Notes 227

28. Cited in Herbers and Plötz, eds, Pilgerfahrten, 186. 29. Fox, Culture, 352 (quote); Kobelt-Groch, ‘Täufer’, 122; Hainhofer cited in Dussler, ed., Reisen, 127; Casanova, Voyages, 61 (1760); Goethe, ‘Briefe’, 630 (1779); Meiners, Briefe, pt 3, 335; Reinach, Schweizerreise, 106 (1788). 30. Goethe, Briefe, 74, 86, 88–9 (three letters in October 1779). In the late 1400s, Waldheim had asked a host in Geneva to deal with his correspondence: Welti, ed., ‘Waldheim’, 103. 31. Heise, Gastwirt, 104 (publicans ‘at the heart of a communication centre’); Wunder, Gemeinde, 126 (publicans as ‘born mediators and persons of trust’ in rural society). 32. Pfister, ‘Klientelismus’, 47. See also Esch, ‘Söldner’, 266–71 (Italian wars) and Suter, Bauernkrieg, 509 (seventeenth-century Lucerne). 33. At Lichtensteig (Toggenburg) in 1740, all candidates relied primarily on publicans offering free wine and sometimes meals on their behalf: Brändle, ‘Ratswahl’, 40; the English example in Everitt, ‘Inn’, 258 n. 41. 34. D’Cruze, ‘Colchester’, 194–6. 35. Schwerhoff, ‘Kommunikationsräume’, 369–71. 36. Eisenstein, Printing Press; Fox, Culture. 37. Report from 1784 cited in Heidrich, Wohnen, 175; German beerhouses resounded with ‘indecent shouting’ and ‘rough jokes’ according to Spazier, Wanderungen, 221. 38. Watt, Print, 13, 30 (ballads); Schmidt, Journal, 176. 39. On the spread of Reformation ideas through music, see Oettinger, Propaganda, esp. Ch. 1; comments on psalm singing in eighteenth-century public houses e.g. in Meiners, Briefe, pt 1, 315. 40. Focht, ‘Gebrauchsmusik’, passim (Bavaria); Salmen, ‘Bauerntanz’, 102–7 (Bern). 41. Fremantle, ed., Wynne Diaries, vol. 1, 139. Musicians had depended on public houses since the Middle Ages: Brandhorst, ‘Spielleute’, 165. 42. Hanawalt, ‘Space’, 117; Tlusty, Bacchus, passim. 43. Roper, ‘Weddings’ (public quality); when apprentice Alexander Arnoldt asked Dachau’s town council for a birth certificate, the document stated that his mother Anna and father Georg were married in St Benedict’s church at Odlhausen, held ‘the wedding banquet at the local inn’ and moved to Dachau in 1614: SAD, RPr, 11 August 1642; cf. Drexler, Kellnerin, 17 (witnesses in illegitimacy cases remembering wedding banquets of parents). 44. McShane Jones, ‘Drink’, 73–4; Ludington, ‘Wine’, 89. Wine drinking had ambivalent connotations: while French and Spanish imports carried ‘foreign’ and ‘Catholic’ connotations (McBride, ‘Stereotyping’, 147), high contributions to royal wine taxes could be portrayed as acts of patriotism: McShane Jones, ‘Drink’, 79. 45. Tavern, 2. 46. Pennell, ‘Eating out’, 238 (impostors); Fumerton, ‘Alehouses’, 512; De Baecque, Rire, 61. 47. Moritz, Journeys, 150. 48. Gojan, Spielstätten, 528 (venues); Wuttke, ed., Fastnachtspiele, 42–51. 49. Gojan, Spielstätten, 117–18, 43 (Bern, Aarau); Elliott et al., eds, Oxford, no. 120 (1556); Watt, Print, 30 (alehouse performances). 50. Shoemaker, Crime, 82. 51. Heidegger, Laudegg, 26–7, 241, 300 (‘soziale Dramen’); Brennan, Drinking, 16–19 (‘public theatre’); Muchembled, Violence, 211 (‘théâtralité’ of tavern behaviour); I owe the metaphor of the ‘magnetic field’ to Sünne Juterczenka. 228 Notes

52. On the respective rituals and tensions, see Muchembled, Violence, 32, 21–22; Hürlimann, ‘Konsum’, 152–8. 53. Lutz, ‘Zutrinken’; Guevara, Gastereyen (1660). 54. Crudities, 439 (1608); drinking vessels were often shared on such occasions: Muchembled, Violence, 202. 55. Platter, Lebensbeschreibung, 110–11 (‘Loß, gsell, ich han kunnen drinken, eb du habest kunnen uff ein spenlin hofieren’). 56. Loetz, ‘Männlichkeit’, 272; Heidegger, Laudegg, 254. 57. Muchembled, Violence, 211–20; Tlusty, ‘Violence’; Wettmann-Jungblut, ‘Gewalt’; Kümin, ‘Gewalt’. 58. Schmidt, Journal, 45; Bräker, Tagebücher, vol. 3, 523. 59. Fox, Culture, 149 (display of proverbs); Watt, Print, 194–6, 331–2 (ballads). 60. The Parisian Tambour Royal featured burlesque decorations in the late 1700s (De Baecque, Rire, 62); ‘on the wall [of a London tavern in 1615] there was the similitude of a mans privie members made with a cole’ (Gowing, Women, 81), whereas an Oxford tavern possessed a Bible in 1782 (Moritz, Journeys, 136). 61. Frearson, ‘Communications’, 286; Roy L. Vice, ‘Literacy, Illiteracy and the Destruction of Books during the Peasants’ War’ (Paper delivered to the Sixteenth Century Society Conference, Toronto 1998). 62. See most recently Potthoff and Kossenhaschen, Kulturgeschichte. 63. Tlusty, Bacchus. 64. Smyth, ed., Conviviality. 65. Martin, Alcohol, 2; Bercé, Revolt, 86; similar Nicolas, ‘Sociabilité’ (rural Savoy). 66. Frank, ‘Männer’, 199 (suspicious private drinking); Reinach, Schweizerreise, 76 (wine ‘only’ consumed in public houses); Wrightson, ‘Alehouses’, 5 (lack of alternative venues). 67. Sutter, Nachbarschaft, 115 (neighbourhood meeting in taverns); O’Callaghan, ‘Tavern societies’; Casanova, Voyages, 65–6 (masquerading as a sommelier to approach a lady at Zurich’s Sword). 68. See e.g. Teuscher, Soziabilität, Ch. 6 (late medieval Bern); Hürlimann, ‘Konsum’ (rural Zurich c. 1500); and Albrecht, ‘Braunschweig’ (c. 1800). 69. Pauser, ‘Geldspiel’, 189; Vallerani, ‘Giochi’, 24; ‘Do you want to see or learn cards / dice / and other games? Look for your teachers in the public house’: Guarinonius, Verwüstung, 1258 (1610). 70. Pauser, ‘Spill’, 30. 71. BayHStA, GR 878/186, pp. 161, 722 (1806); cf. Rau, ‘Wirtshaus’, 220 (boule played outside a cabaret near Lyon). 72. Drexler, Kellnerin, 38 (competitions); Pezzl, Reise, 229–30 (racing trophies). Stone throwing was among the attractions offered by the illegitimate tavern at Thörishaus near Laupen: GANC, 18 July 1672; Turner, Diary, 98 (cockfight), 102 (visit by a cricket team). 73. Platter, Lebensbeschreibung, 40; Pauser, ‘Spill’, 27 (Krems); Schnyder, ‘Mühleberg’, 2087 (Gümmenen); Casanova, Voyages, 74; Linde, ‘Krüge’, 38 (Lippe). 74. Pauser, ‘Spill’, 23–5 (legislation) and 40 (enforcement problems). See also idem, ‘Geldspiel’, esp. 203–4 (pressures on publicans). Rau, ‘Wirtshaus’, 221–2, exemplifies a tavern dispute fuelled by gaming (Lyon, 1719). 75. Everitt, ‘Inn’, 112 (quote); similar Teuscher, Soziabilität, 195. 76. Esch, ‘Söldner’, 287–8 (soldiers’ tales); Gowing, Women, 70 (gossip about an illegitimate child at a Shoreditch alehouse in 1610); Scribner, ‘Ideas’, 58, describes the inn as the ‘natural home for rumour’. Notes 229

77. Behringer, Kommunikationsrevolution, 378; Fox, Culture, 376 (quote 1695). Further evidence for newspaper circulation: Vonbank, Tafernen, 28 (1686); Muchembled, Violence, 208 (Netherlands 1600s); Linde, ‘Krüge’, 18 (Lippe c. 1800). 78. Kaemena, Literatur, 79–82 (Der verkleidete Götter = Both Mercurius). 79. Summarizing Te Brake, People; Blickle, Kommunalismus. 80. Dachau District Museum, Inventory no. 2.7.17 (archive); Anshelm, Chronik, vol. 3, 279 (1511); Tlusty, ‘Military culture’; Bern’s innkeepers had to submit daily reports on strangers, ‘detailing who they are, their names, where they came from and whence they intend to go, … and also to note any suspicious circumstances’: council minutes of 23 January 1690 in Rechtsquellen Bern, pt 1, vol. 8/1, 226. 81. Giesicke and Ruoss, ‘Donations’, 45–6; heraldry on inn signs could express multiple political affiliations: Kümin, ‘Gemeinde’, 78–82. 82. Dufner, ed., Engelberg, 19; Linde, ‘Krüge’, 18 (Lippe). 83. Goethe, Tagebücher, 182; Meiners, Briefe, pt 1, 132. 84. Würgler, ‘Gesandte’, 294–5 (diplomatic negotiations in Lucerne inns during the Swiss diet of 1514); Rageth-Fritz, Falken, 212–14 (state banquets in Bern); StAB, B VII 353, pp. 242–4 (1686 decree on limiting hospitality costs). 85. Johnson, ‘Sources’, 19 (English coroners’ inquests); the Perlach inn was customarily used for interviews by court officials: StAM, Hofkastenamt, A 346, no. 10a (1692). 86. Rechtsquellen Bern, pt 2, vol. 2, 4–5 (Oberland); ibid., vol. 9, lviii (Burgdorf); StAB, B V 147, p. 1214 (secular court and consistory at Les Planches from 1616); Hartinger, ed., Ordnungen, 234, 316 (Bavaria); Rauers, Kulturgeschichte, vol. 1, 196 (Gerichtskretscham). 87. BayHStA, GR 878/186, pp. 172–3 (1806); a similar case was made for several disputed village establishments in the Vaud: Radeff, ‘Auberges’, 131. 88. Hoiningen-Huene, ‘Bergell’ (1936), 276. 89. Cited in Bretherton, ‘Alehouses’, 176–7. 90. Roberts, ‘Politik’ (labour movement); Wedemeyer, Kneipe, 20 (modern political culture). 91. Hauser, ‘Wirtshaus’, 203. 92. Guarinonius, Verwüstung, 828; Bräker, Tagebücher, vol. 3, 5–10 (January), 262 (November). 93. Meiners, Briefe, pt 1, 417 (quote concerning Geneva 1782); Spazier, Wanderungen, 178–9; Gray, Letters, 164. Gray also had to put up with a ‘demo- crat philosopher’ full of ‘ignorance’ and anti-clerical fervour at the Crown in Biel: ibid., 195. 94. The craft guilds of Dachau had designated tables at specific inns, where they also stored their insignia: Dachauer Bezirksmuseum, Inventory no. 4.2; for meetings of English charities, see e.g. Chartres, ‘Age’, 222. 95. Teuscher, Soziabilität, 194. 96. Mathieu, Unterengadin, 274; Brewer, ‘Politics’, 244. 97. Everitt, ‘Inn’, 111 (Northampton); Brewer, ‘Politics’, 241 (quote). 98. Liebenau, Wirtshauswesen, 70 (Lucerne and Grisons); mural inscription on the Angel at Küssnacht a. Rigi. 99. Flatt, ‘Wangen’, 154 (Oberbipp); StAB, A V 1111, p. 353 (Neuenegg). 100. Hohkamp, ‘Wirtshaus’, 9 (Triberg); Radeff, ‘Auberges’, 131 (Ormont-Dessus, Vaud); Mathieu, Unterengadin, 117; Zückert, ‘Gemeindeleben’, 165 (Branden- burg); for the wider context, see Bader, Dorfgemeinde, 292. 230 Notes

101. Hartinger, ed., Ordnungen, 41. 102. See e.g. Habermas, Public Sphere, 30. 103. Examples in Kümin, ‘Gemeinde’, 88–95. 104. Walz, ‘Kommunikation’. 105. Raeff, Police State; Hsia, Discipline. 106. Muchembled, Violence, 221. 107. Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 2, vol. 10, 465 (23 May 1628); Earle, Tavern, 2. 108. Tlusty, Bacchus, esp. Ch. 7. 109. See the contrasting assessments of Legnaro, ‘Alkoholkonsum’ (gradual stigma- tization of drunkards) and Braudel, Life, 227 (continuous rise of alcoholism). 110. For early modern medical views, see Tlusty, Bacchus, Ch. 3. 111. GANC, 4 November 1660, 14 April 1667, 17 May 1668, 28 Febuary 1686 etc (citations of men) and 21 May 1671, 10 January 1686 (women); for an illustration and interpretation of the offence, cf. Stewart, ‘Taverns’, 110–14. 112. Beck, Dimanche, 80 (crude tavern games); Wettmann-Jungblutt, ‘Gewalt’, 49 (deliberate violation of social norms). 113. GANC, 10 April 1659 (sexton); Bärtschi, ed., ‘Brechershäusern’, 125 (Wynigen); cf. also GANC, 13 August 1671 (Uli Freiburghaus’ drinking habit causing ‘damage to his household’). On the capacity to support dependants as a key component of male honour: Dinges, ‘Ehre’, 140. 114. Moryson, Itinerary, pt. 3, 91. 115. Gercken, Reisen, vol. 2, 282; Heinzmann, Bern, vol. 2, 228 (both late 1700s). 116. Shoemaker, Crime, 313 (quoting Middlesex officials). 117. Sutter, Nachbarschaft, 332; Schindler, ‘Nacht’, 232. 118. BayHStA, Mandatensammlung, 1604/XII/2. 119. GANC, 2 April 1671; 19 June 1659. On 22 May 1661, another villager stood accused of swearing ‘on the blood sacrament’ at the inn. Catholic clergy, too, identified the tavern as the ‘principal venue’ for swearing and blasphemy: Moser-Rath, Barockpredigten, 174. 120. Schwerhoff, ‘Blasphemie’, 248 (quote); Bräker, Tagebücher, vol. 3, 470–1. 121. Dinges, ‘Ehre’, 133. 122. Minder, ed., Lauperswil, 19 (Kalchmatten and Ranflüh); GANC, 29/31 July and 2 August 1663. 123. Verwüstung, 828. 124. Herbers and Plötz, eds, Pilgerfahrten, 320. 125. Cited in Heidegger, Laudegg, 177. 126. Capp, ‘Sileby’, 60; Minder, ed., Lauperswil, 29. 127. Latham and Matthews, eds, Diary, vol. 4, 263 (one of ten recorded tavern adventures with Mrs Martin); ibid., vol. 5, 322. 128. Brändle and Sieber, eds, Autobiographie, 139; Schmidt, Journal, 224. 129. Radeff ‘Auberges’, 134 (1786); BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 110 (1806). The inns at Siegsdorf, Ruhpolding and Zell were linked to a wave of petty crime in seventeenth-century Traunstein: Schindler, ‘Ehrbarkeit’, 102 n. 78. For Austrian examples, see Scheutz, ‘Gaststätten’, 198–9. 130. Brändle and Sieber, eds, Autobiographie, 133 (‘Ist aber ihnen daz Leben geschenckt worden und daz Landt verwißen worden, dieweil der oberst Her in der Statt deß Wirdts Schwester hatt, welcher i[h]m daz Leben erhalten hat.’). 131. For introductions to the recent historiography on early modern crime (and methodical problems), see Schwerhoff, Kriminalitätsforschung, and Sharpe, Crime. Notes 231

132. Absolute levels of serious crime seem to have fallen by the eighteenth century: Shoemaker, ‘Violence’, 207; Müller-Wirthmann, ‘Raufhändel’, 93 (also suggesting a declining proportion of female offenders). 133. 140 relevant offences recorded in GANC, 1650–59, at a time when there were c. 650 souls in the parish of Neuenegg: Marschall and Bachofen, Chorgericht, 28; Lancaster and Mason, eds, Coventry, 281 (drunkenness statistics); Statis- tisches Jahrbuch, 68 (population), 496 and 504 (crime figures for Switzerland). 134. StAB, A V 1092, p. 621 (1670). 135. Tlusty, Bacchus, 80 (Augsburg). 136. Bärtschi, ed., ‘Brechershäusern’, 96 (peasant complaint); Nicole Staremberg Goy, ‘L’action du consistoire de Lausanne pour le respect du Sabbat 1754–91’ (conference paper, Bern 2003, since published as ‘Consistoire de Lausanne’); at Vechigen, proceedings against drunkards increased from c. 1:1,000 inhabitants (in the late sixteenth century) to 3.5:1,000 by the mid-1700s: Schmidt, ‘Ehezucht’, p. 305, graph 5. 137. GANC, 1650–59. 138. Preis, Chronik, 100–1. 139. Frank, ‘Publicans’, 20 (‘release of steam’); Müller-Wirthmann, ‘Raufhändel’, 88 (‘natural’ feature); for the frequency and socio-economic repercussions of warfare in early modern Europe, especially spiralling costs and growing army sizes, see Cameron, ed., Europe, chs 3, 6. 140. Blickle, Kommunalismus, vol. 1, 110–16 (communal values); Wittke, ‘Gewalt’, 311 (limited tolerance of violence); Müller-Wirthmann, ‘Raufhändel’, 109 (less than a fifth of brawls ending in serious injury). For the (patchy) impact of the early modern ‘civilizing’ campaign: Dinges, ‘Zivilisationsprozess’. 141. Kaiser and Kaiser-Guyot, Trunkenheit, 15, 216–17; Martin, Alcohol, esp. 96–118; Hirschfelder, Alkoholkonsum, vol. 1, 332. 142. Clark, Alehouse, 146. For petty criminality among inn staff, cf. Harrison, Description, 108. 143. SAD, RPr, 13 July 1650; StAB, A V 1111, p. 393 (Biberen); encyclopaedia cited in Heise, Gastwirt, 116. 144. Schindler, ‘Ehrbarkeit’, 54–5, 66–7. 145. GANC, 1650–59. 146. Bartlome, ‘Willisau’, esp. 9, 12. I am grateful to the author for further details on the breakdown of cases. Offenders’ professions are only rarely given. 147. ‘Jost Hofstetter and Jost Solberger … accused … of constant wine sales against the prohibition’: Wynigen consistory, 1 July 1638, cited in Bärtschi, ed., ‘Brechershäusern’, 125; Wrightson and Levine, Terling, 134. 148. Frank, ‘Publicans’, 26; keepers of public houses became primary targets in the quest for greater social discipline, as authorities sought to suppress disorderly behaviour where it frequently occurred: Schmidt, Religion, 142–6. 149. Bernese officials interviewed a gang of thieves for a series of raids on public houses in and around the capital: StAB, UP 21/193 and 21/194 (c. 1500); the innkeeper of Neuried (Bavaria) was beaten up by a nightly intruder in 1656: StAM, Rentmeisterliteralien 34/129, f. 84r. 150. Scott, Resistance, 108–35, esp. 121–3. Similar Magnusson, ‘Drinking’, 294, 311. 151. For further examples, see e.g. Bercé, Revolt, 86–90; Cherubini, ‘Taverna’, 221; Ruff, Violence, 187; Wegert, ‘Wirtshaus’, 172 (the public house as the ‘most appropriate symbol’ of the 1848 revolution); Zaret, Public Sphere, 226. 152. Franck, ‘Trunckenhayt’, 400 (1528); Blickle, ‘Criminalization’, S95; Pauser, ‘Geldspiel’, 203 (Tyrolean mandates of 1532 and 1573 denounced illegi- 232 Notes

timate drinking houses as dens of ‘covert conspiracy’); Sreenivasan, Ottobeuren, 76. 153. For the English alehouse as a ‘stronghold of popular opposition’: Clark, ‘Society’, 46; for their role in the fostering of dissent, cf. Fox, Culture, 386. 154. Gemeinde Trachselwald, 5; Berner Zeitung (22 April 2003), 29 (Langenthal). For the wider context, see most recently Holenstein, ‘Bauernkrieg’ and Suter, Bauernkrieg. The references to the Schüpfheim assembly and publicans’ social capital ibid., 140, 510. 155. Zingg, ‘Olten’, 310–11; Ammann, ‘Gasthäuser’, 122, 141, 144, 146, 162, 168, 171, 196; Rechtsquellen Bern, pt 2, vol. 10, 859 (Buchser); Suter, Bauernkrieg, 296 (Peyer), 508–9 (Christen), 67 and 298 (Lötscher), 509–10 (Schibi). 156. Probst, Volksaufstand, 102, 260–1, 265, 320, 402–4. In the Upper Palatinate, the second-in-command of the rising was brewer and innkeeper Adam Schmidt from Cham: ibid., 364. 157. Wrightson and Levine, Terling, 134; Clark, ‘Society’. A call for regional differ- entiation in Ingram, ‘Discipline’. 158. Holenstein, Gute Policey, 350, 483–4 (Baden-Durlach, 1700s). 159. Darnton, ‘Information’, 10. 160. StAB, B V 147, p. 776 (1556); Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 1, vol. 8/1, 206–7 (1617). 161. Wittke, ‘Gewalt’, 311–12, 314. 162. Müller-Wirthmann, ‘Raufhändel’, 82 (Alling; the verdict is not recorded); GANC, 7 and 11 February 1686. 163. For example in eighteenth-century Baden-Durlach: Holenstein, Gute Policey, 699. 164. Schuster, ‘Ehre’, 62 (Constance); Sreenivasan, Ottobeuren, 55; Minder, ed., Lauperswil, 18–19. For the instrumentalization of courts by women: Schmidt, ‘Ehezucht’, 296, 304; Roper, Household, 183. The household was sacred and early modern authorites did everything to protect it: Tlusty, ‘Family relations’. 165. The Bernese council ﬁned the keepers of three different inns for lodging a banned local ofﬁcial in 1601: StAB, A II 312, p. 77. In Baden-Durlach during the 1700s, authorities inspected publicans’ accounts to determine whether credit limits had been violated: Holenstein, Gute Policey, 699 n. 418. On the highly symbolic ‘pulling down’ of signs as a punishment for offending keepers: Bretherton, ‘Alehouses’, 196. 166. Gersmann, ‘Auseinandersetzung’, 255. 167. Linde, ‘Krugwirtshäuser’, 201 (1812). Similarly, with reference to the sixteenth century: ‘Sweeping negative judgements … seem inappropriate from today’s perspective’: Kobelt-Groch, ‘Täufer’, 117. 168. Starzinger, Szenekneipe, 6; Linde, ‘Krüge’, 37 (alcoholism did not originate in the tavern); Guggenbühl, ‘Switzerland’, 99 (no correlation between addiction levels and density of public houses); cf. Hirschfelder, ‘Alkoholkonsum’, 110 (domestication and privatisation of [bourgeois] drinking habits in the nineteenth century). 169. Cited in Heinzmann, Bern, vol. 2, 231–2. The Enlightenment scholar Johannes von Müller found little evidence of debauchery on a journey through the Bernese Oberland in 1777: ‘Schweizerreise’, 146. 170. Earle, Tavern, 2; Suter, Bauernkrieg, 498 (Schüpfheim); Probst, Volksaufstand, 234. ‘Drink and make up’ was as notable a feature of tavern life as quarreling: Muchembled, Violence, 210; Cherubini, ‘Taverna’, 214. Notes 233

171. Hoiningen-Huene, ‘Bergell’ (1937), 179 (court order for reconciliation); Zückert, ‘Gemeindeleben’, 166, 172 (Brandenburg court ﬁnes spent on sociability); cf. GANC, 26 January 1651.

Chapter 5 Interpretations

1. Westenrieder, ‘Dachau’, 407 (1792). 2. Rechtsquellen Bern, pt 1, vol. 8/1, 208 (regulation of prices, 1619); StAB, B V 143, p. 36 (register of 1688); ibid., B V 147, p. 1041 (Mies, 1786). Similar emphasis on comfort for foreign travellers in Bavaria (BayHStA, Man- datensammlung, 1560/IX/30) and Brandenburg (Gräf and Pröve, ‘Profession- alisierung’, 94). 3. Willebrand, Grundriß, vol. 1, 282. 4. StAB, B V 142, p. 52 (Colombier); ibid., B V 144, p. 85 (Missy, 1743) and B V 143, p. 34 (Gerolﬁngen, 1688); BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 564 (Englmar, 1806). The public house at Lécherette on a mountain pass near Saanen (Bernese Oberland) was deemed useful because ‘snowfall often prevented people from moving on’ (ibid., B V 148, p. 12; 1789). 5. StAB, B V 147, p. 867 (Vuarrens, 1786); BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 93 (Hepberg), 425 (Neumarkt), 89 (Gaimersheim), 107 (Unterhaunstadt), 94 (Demling). 6. BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 187 (1806). 7. Rauers, Kulturgeschichte, xiii–xiv, 222–79; Potthoff and Kossenhaschen, Kulturgeschichte, 291–330. 8. For an analysis of the genre and further details on the description, symbols and virtues relating to publicans, cf. Kramer, Schachzabelbuch, esp. 37–9, 54–5, 72–4, 103–7. 9. Stewart, ‘Taverns’, 114–15. 10. For commentaries on a representative sample of such works, see Biesboer and Sitt, eds, Gesellschaftsszenen, esp. 15 (quote). 11. On seventeenth-century political ballads, cf. McShane Jones, ‘Drink’; numerous examples of tavern art appear in the ‘Web Gallery of Art’ (http://www.wga.hu/). 12. Potthoff and Kossenhaschen, Kulturgeschichte, 204–5 (Mr and Mrs Im Hof), 112–13 (Mr and Mrs Ott). 13. The tombstone of Johann Paul Dägn, ‘honoured and respected’ innkeeper at Perlach c. 1700, is on prominent display near the entrance of the parish church of St Michael. 14. Earnshaw, Literature, 2 (beginnings), 13 (extended quote). 15. Kaemena, Literatur, 211–13. 16. Manuel, Weinspiel, 292–3 (quote from landlady), 379–99 (trial and execution of culprits). 17. Eulenspiegel, Lesen. Examples of scatological pranks in public houses in stories nos 72, 77, 79, 81, 85. 18. Further tavern-related comedy e.g. in Goedeke, ed., Schwänke, 122–3, 125, 132 and passim. 19. Leinwand, ‘Alehouse’ (social interaction); Earnshaw, Literature, 111, 118 (quotes referring to Ward), 13 (Fielding). 20. In Gotthold Ephraim Lessing’s drama Minna von Barnhelm (1763), the nosy keeper of the King of Portugal in Berlin serves a stabilizing function as informer and mediator (symbolizing the intrusiveness of the Prussian police state: 234 Notes

Kaemena, Literatur, 160). For the prominence of public houses in eighteenth- century French farces and burlesques, see De Baecque, Rire, 86. 21. O’Callaghan, ‘Tavern societies’, 44 (Braithwaite); Smyth, ‘Drunkenness’, 204–5 (Sons of Ben and Cotgrave); Boswell’s rendering of Johnson’s quote cited in Richardson, Inns, 81. 22. StAB, B III 207, no. 45, p. 7 (Minister Zehender of Ferenbalm, 1764); Linde, ‘Krüge’, 41 (bailiff of Langenholzhausen, 1812). 23. Petitions for preservation/expansion of provision e.g. in Linde, ‘Krüge’, 47 (Lippe), and Ammann, ‘Gasthäuser’, 122 (Aeschi in Bern, 1676); for reduction StAB, B V 144, p. 101 (Gstaad 1744); B V 148, 26 (Daillens, Vaud, 1789); and Kissling, Policey, 90–2 (seventeenth-century Berchtesgaden). 24. Fuge, ‘Weinverfälschung’, 482; ‘The vices available in inns and taverns were stock targets for [late medieval] sermons and homilies’: Hanawalt, ‘Space’, 111. 25. Kaisersberg, ‘Gluttony’ (1498); Luther, ‘Moderation’, esp. 292–3 (1539). 26. Cited in Wrightson and Levine, Terling, 162. The denouncement was signed by 15 clergymen and triggered a countywide purge by the secular authorities. 27. Moser-Rath, Barockpredigten, 3–4 (Sancta Clara) and 133 (Wolff). For similar concerns by the Savoy clergy, see Maistre, ‘Cabarets’. 28. Chavannes, ed., Mireour, 170–1. 29. Franck, ‘Trunckenhayt’, 365; Friderich, Sauffteufel (1552). 30. Guarinonius, Verwüstung, 827 (quote), 848–53 (proposals) and passim. 31. On Puritan critics, see most recently Smyth, ‘Drunkenness’, 190, 199, 204. 32. Holzer, Laupen, 44; for related concerns about excessive numbers of public houses, see Heinzmann, Bern, vol. 2, 226. 33. Pezzl, Reise, 220. On Lorenz Westenreider’s comparable critique of beer houses: Prinz, Geschichte, 243. 34. Tanner, ‘Alkoholismus’, 185; Magnusson, ‘Drinking’, 294. 35. Räber, Bauernhäuser, vol. 1, 432 (Aargau); Stiewe, ‘Krugwirtshäuser’, 227 (Lippe). 36. Willebrand, Grundriß, vol. 1, 283–4. 37. Hofer, Bern, vol. 6 (MS), ‘public houses’ (long-term trend); Heiss, Toblach, 6 (palaces). 38. Halfpenny, Architecture, plate 4 with key (p. 11) and indication of total costs (p. 14). 39. Lehmann, Reisen. 40. Spazier, Wanderungen, 228, 299, 384; Meiners had made his first trip in 1782, Spazier travelled in 1789. 41. Heinzmann, Bern, vol. 1, 56. 42. The Gespräch-Büchlein (1703) covered four languages; Genlis, Manuel (1799) French and German; for an early French conversation manual (1415) featur- ing travellers arriving at an inn: Munby, ‘Oxford inn’, 305–6. 43. Knigge, Umgang, 213–21. 44. Böckel, Gast-Recht, sub-title of the German edition of 1748. 45. Ibid., 29 (quote), 19 (distinctions). 46. Zedler, Lexicon, vol. 57, columns 1101–8 (publicans), 1190–1217 (public houses); available online at: http://www.zedler-lexikon.de/ (14 December 2006). 47. Ibid., column 1102. 48. Ibid., 1190 (definition), 1202 (welcoming strangers), 1203 and 1212 (European comparison). 49. The first edition of the Encyclopaedia Britannica of 1771 included a long article on ‘brewing’ and shorter entries for ‘drunkenness’, ‘host’ and ‘inn’ (‘a place Notes 235

appointed for the entertainment and relief of travellers’): Smellie, ed., Encyclopaedia, vol. 1, 665–75; vol. 2, 456, 800, 842. Entries for ‘auberge’, ‘cabaret’ and ‘taverne’ in Diderot’s famous French Encyclopédie were above all concerned with deﬁnitions and terminology. See e.g. vol. xv, column 937b. 50. Embarking on a fresh attempt to cap numbers in 1688, the Bernese government hoped that ‘rural people, who have been seduced into reckless behaviour and drunkenness by the recent proliferation of public houses …, will gradually return to a thriftier lifestyle’: StAB, B V 143, p. 37. 51. BayHStA, GR 878/186, pp. 396, 667. 52. See the evaluation processes conducted e.g. at Eggiwil 1688, Rolle 1719, Frauchwil 1736 and Brugg 1743 (all in Bern): StAB, B V 143, p. 19 and B V 144, pp. 61, 147, 23. 53. Kerntke, Taverne, 61 (Nabburg); StAB, B V 147, p. 101 (Biberstein); SAD, Kammerrechnung, 1649; Hartinger, ed., Ordnungen, 94 (Bayerbach). 54. Rechtsquellen Bern, pt. 1, vol. 8/1, 202 (1594); StAB, B V 147, p. 1087 (1752). For a survey of legitimate and illegitimate competitors, see Kachel, Herberge, 144–67. 55. StAB, B V 143, p. 7 (1688). In order to protect local publicans, the district of Traunstein (Bavaria) lobbied for the imposition of restrictions on the keeper of the baths at Adelholzen: BayHStA, GR 878/186, pp. 172–3 (1806). 56. StAB, A V 1113, p. 9 (1665); following complaints by the burghers of Laupen that their governor had attempted to sell wine in the town centre, the prohibition was conﬁrmed by the council of Bern in 1735: ibid., pp. 13–18. For a clampdown on hospitality services by Bavarian rectors and other priests in 1782, see Meyr, ed., Sammlung, vol. 2, 1152–3. 57. BayHStA, GR 878/186, pp. 55, 59. 58. Haller, ed., Rathsmanuale, vol. 2, passim; Crown: ibid., 22–4, and Stürler, ‘Wirtschaften’, 23. 59. Rau and Schwerhoff, ‘Gasthaus-Geschichte(n)’, esp. pt 3. 60. Latham and Matthews, eds, Diary, esp. vol. 11, 279–83 (index entries for over 100 named taverns in the London area alone, i.e. a roughly equivalent number of references to those for his wife Elizabeth!); Bräker, Tagebücher, passim. 61. Cited and discussed in Smyth, ‘Drunkenness’, 198, 201. 62. Tschudi, ‘Wirts-Häuser’, 124–7. 63. Modern edition in Taylor, Works not Included, Second Collection; quotes ibid., 8, 20. 64. Iohn Taylors last Voyage, and Adventvre (1641), in: ibid., 19 (Wales); John Taylors Wandering, 1649, cited in: Chandler, ed., Travels, 228–9 (Nether Stowey); The certain Travailes of an uncertain Journey (1653) in Works not Included, Second Collection, 17 (Rye). 65. Taylors Travels appears in Works not Included, Third Collection; Memorable Foundations ibid., Fourth Collection; Carriers Cosmographie ibid., Second Collection. 66. Ibid., 7. 67. Richardson, Inns, 53–4 (tavern-/inn-keeping). For a full assessment of life and oeuvre, see Capp, Taylor, esp. 2 (quote), 130 (dangers of drunkenness). 68. Cf. the historiographical survey in the ‘Introduction’ above. 69. On the strong position of the Bavarian nobility, see Rankl, Landvolk, 1081; on the Bernese patriciate’s involvement in the hospitality trade: Müller, ‘Nobility’. 70. Teuscher, Soziabilität, 199–200; Tlusty, Bacchus, 211; the same applies to rural communes: Schildt, Bauer, 110 (Thuringia). 236 Notes

71. Bodin, Staat, 524; similarly close links between conviviality and government were noted by the Venetian ambassador Padavino in the early seventeenth century: Governo, 76–8. I owe this reference to Andreas Würgler. 72. Adequate travel infrastructure was a hallmark of well ‘policed’ lands: Braudel, Life, 418; Bavarian officals deplored the ‘bad’ state of policing in areas under manorial jurisdiction in 1806: BayHStA, GR 878/186, pp. 98 (Kasing), 702 (Altkirchen); and cf. the tirade by the Bernese governor of Zweisimmen against the electoral system in the Oberland: StAB, B V 147, p. 706 (1786). 73. Salmen, ‘Bauerntanz’, 102–7. 74. Hersche, ‘Wallfahrtsforschung’, 22. 75. Hersche, ‘Hygiene’, 46, 51 (with regard to differences between Zwinglian Bern and Catholic Lucerne); for the relatively low quality of provision in Spain, see Kellenbenz, ‘Spanien’. 76. See e.g. Rentmeister instruction to the market town of Geisenhausen 1580 (Hartinger, ed., Ordnungen, 178–9); fasting rules for publicans in Munich 1609 (Stadtarchiv München, Gewerbeamt, no. 1423); general mandate of 31 January 1736 (Meyr, ed., Sammlung, vol. 5, 376); on enforcement problems ibid., 511 (1796 decree). 77. Kobelt-Groch, ‘Täufer’, 125; StAM, RL 34/129, f. 126r (Mering, Bavaria). 78. Schmidt, Religion, 133–4; Kümin, ‘Worldly tavern’, 28. 79. Reinhard, ‘Confessionalization’, 173, 183 (functional similarities); Frank, ‘Publicans’, 37 (comparable measures regarding Sabbath observance and tavern surveillance). 80. A Scottish ban on meat during Lent in 1567/68 was motivated by the bad quality of meat at that time of the year: Burton, ed., Council, 611. 81. See Tables 1–2 above. 82. Compare, say, Tanner, Appenzell, 300–1, and Beck, Unterfinning, 256. 83. Benker, Gasthof, 164. 84. For scarcity of provision in Scotland, see Fenton, ‘Travellers’, 76, for contemporary complaints on conditions in Naples: Burnet, Letters, 192 (‘in some big Towns, such as Capua, there is but one Inn, yet even that is … miserable’). 85. De la Platière cited in Beer, Travellers, 48; Robert, Reise, vol. 1, 58 (1790); for positive comparison with Germany, see e.g. Steinbrenner, Reise, 104 (1790), and with France: Roland de la Platière, Voyage, 30, 160 (1787). 86. Barley, ‘Building’, 684. 87. On the crucial role of traffic, markets and fairs: Radeff, ‘Auberges’, 129, 132–3. 88. Kerntke, Taverne, 31–2, 55; a good network of public houses formed one of the preconditions for the emergence of the Genevan fair in the late Middle Ages: Bergier, Wirtschaftsgeschichte, 294. 89. Kachel, Herberge, 169; Benker, Gasthof, 77. 90. Pennell, ‘Eating out’ (choice in London); in marked contrast, Maria Lechner, innkeeper at rural Obermenzing near Munich, complained in 1753 that demand was not even big enough to warrant temporary operations: Thurner, ‘Obermenzing’, 280–1. The more constant demand in towns is emphasized in Beck, Dimanche, 81. 91. Tlusty, Bacchus, 204 (villages around Augsburg); Limberger, ‘Sub-urbanization’ (Antwerp region, 1500s); Albrecht, ‘Braunschweig’, 317 (leisure trips to country pubs). 92. Radeff, Café, 215 (range of functions); Krauss, Herrschaftspraxis, 373 (greater centrality of rural inns for local public life). This throws further doubt on Notes 237

Hauser’s suggestion that urban drinking houses were more ‘open’ environ- ments: ‘Wirtshaus’, 210–11. 93. Kümin, ‘Tourismus’ (interaction of supply and demand factors in the early tourist age) and ‘Kommunikationsrevolution’ (spatial implications). 94. Moos, ‘Begriffe’, esp. 114. 95. In England from the late seventeenth century: Heyl, Privacy. 96. Schofield, ‘Houses’; Eibach, ‘Haus’. 97. Krug-Richter, ‘Reihebraurecht’, esp. 117. StAB, B V 147, pp. 706–8 (1786). 98. Beer, Travellers, 70; In the Artois, the kitchen was off-limits to patrons (Muchembled, Village, 200–1), elsewhere diners ate their meals there (Walker, ‘Inns’, 130–5). 99. Spang, Restaurant, 86; cf. Chapter 3 above. 100. Tlusty, ‘Privat’, 66–7, 71; Kümin, ‘Public space’, 17–18. 101. Müller-Wirthmann, ‘Raufhändel’, 82; Hanawalt, ‘Space’, 105. 102. Kümin, ‘Dachau’ (2003), 315 (Schleissheim); Cherubini, ‘Taverna’, 217. 103. Trouillat, ed., Monuments, vol. 1, 98 (no. 50: Bishop Hatto of Basle banning clergymen from visiting public houses in 820). The authoritative account for this early period is Peyer, Gasthaus. 104. Eleventh-century examples for Bavaria cited in Zeiss, ‘Tafernen’, 206–7; late thirteenth-century references from Bernese manorial sources in Zesiger, ‘Berner’, 263. Kerntke, Taverne, 46–7, relates growth to town foundations in the 1100s; Chartres, ‘Transport’, 176, to higher levels of road traffic; Kaiser and Kaiser-Guyot, Gewalt, 22, 216–17, to a spatial concentration of drinking rituals onto public premises. 105. Galloway, ‘Ale’, 94, 96. 106. Simon-Muscheid, ‘Trunkenheit’, 51–2; Stolleis, ‘Trinkverbote’, 177, 186. In early modern Augsburg, civic law started to treat drink-related crimes as sinful behaviour: Tlusty, Bacchus, 80. 107. I owe this suggestion to Ulrich Pfister; cf. also Braudel, Life, 237. A quart (1.14 l.) of strong ale covered about 25% of an adult’s daily calorific require- ment: Clark, Alehouse, 111. 108. Zwingli, ‘Speisen’. 109. Temporary closures: Blanke, ‘Reformation’, 84–5 (Geneva 1546); Schmid, ‘Oberpfalz’, 127 (Upper Palatinate late 1500s). Early modern Europe can be ‘seen as a period characterized by the attempt to constitute a distinct sacred sphere and to separate it from the profane world’: Rau and Schwerhoff, ‘Themen’, 51. For the similarity of campaigns in distinct confessional contexts, cf. Brändle, ‘Volkskultur’, 59–60. 110. Tlusty, ‘Brandy and gin’, 29–30; Cowan, ‘Coffeehouse’, 21; Chartres, ‘Transport’, 171–5, and Behringer, Kommunikationsrevolution, 658 (take-off of transport services around 1650). 111. Chartres, ‘Age’ (golden age of English inn); Baumann, Strassenwesen, pt 2 (road building programme in Bern); Wyss, Post, 109, and Kümin, ‘Tourismus’ (proto-tourism). 112. McKendrick et al., Consumer Society (commercialization of leisure, politics etc); Hirschfelder, ‘Gastgewerbe’, 333–4 (more differentiated and individualized service in Cologne); Heise, Gastwirt, 126–8 (hygiene standards); Everitt, ‘Inn’, 114–15 (balls and assemblies); Clark, Clubs, 21 (public houses as the main bases for eighteenth-century associations). 113. Gräf and Pröve, ‘Professionalisierung’; the case for the persistence of custom and tradition in Heiss, ‘Gastwirtinnen’, 62, is overstated. 238 Notes

114. Meiners, Briefe, pt 4, 296 (patrons checking prices); Reinach, Schweizerreise, 47 (traveller asking for a better room at the Crown in Bern); for advertising by trade cards, see Chapter 3 above. 115. Reise, pt 1, 83; similar Ebel, Anleitung, pt 2, 190; Willebrandt preferred one inn over another at Bremen in 1758 ‘because of the latter’s location on the pretty cathedral square’: Reisen, 85. 116. Brackenhoffer, Voyages, 57; Goethe, ‘Briefe’, 605 (1779: ‘um mit frischer Lust, aus den Fenstern des Wirtshauses, den breitschwimmenden Wiederglanz des Mondes im ganz reinen See genießen zu können’); Meiners, Briefe, pt. 2, 393. 117. Drexler, Kellnerin, 23. 118. Krauss, Herrschaftspraxis, 357. 119. Baur, Wirtschaftsgesetzgebung, 188–91; Drexler, Kellnerin, 7. 120. For an assessment of changes in the structure, personnel and character of the trade, cf. Heiss, ‘Gastwirtinnen’, esp. 60–9. 121. For the role in the German revolutions of 1848, see Wegert, ‘Wirtshaus’, and in the labour movement around 1900: Roberts, ‘Wirtshaus’, 23. The continued social signiﬁcance has been emphasized for nineteenth-century Bavaria (Krauss, Herrschaftspraxis, esp. 353–83) as well as Switzerland (Guggenbühl, ‘Switzerland’), yet it is hard to disagree with the comparative verdict that ‘old hostelries played a far more active part in the social life of the community than do their modern counterparts’: Miller, Inns, 6. 122. Hirschfelder, Alkoholkonsum, vol. 1, 321–4. 123. Starzinger, Szenekneipe, 2; Graham, ‘Public drinking’, 48–9. 124. Factors like market dates, population size and settlement type ‘inﬂuence the number of public houses … without being the sole determinant. We are dealing with a very complex interaction’: Radeff, ‘Auberges’, 133. For the tran- sitory nature of constellations – and the potentially treacherous bias of travel evidence – cf. the contrasting assessments of provision at the Freienhof in Thun by the same visitor on two successive visits in 1788: Reinach, Schweizerreise, 60, 106. 125. Wanderungen, 281–2 (1790). ‘Taverns’, to use a classic formulation by Thomas Brennan for ancien régime Paris, meant ‘many things to many people’: Drinking, 311.

Chapter 6 Interactions

1. GANC, vol. 1, 9 January 1659. 2. For social and political surveys, see Blickle, Kommunalismus, and Friedrichs, City; recent work on individual sites includes Tittler, Town Hall; Pounds, Parish, esp. pt 3 (‘The Parish and its Church’); Fenske, ‘Marktkultur’; Postles, ‘Market’. 3. See esp. Kümin and Tlusty, eds, Tavern; Rau und Schwerhoff, eds, Öffentliche Räume; Dürr and Schwerhoff, eds, Tavernen. 4. Cited in Maistre, ‘Cabarets’, 308. In the same year, the parish priest of Bayerbach (Bavaria) challenged the local innkeeper about a dancing event staged on Easter Tuesday (Hartinger, ‘Tanz’, esp. 117) and that of Teningen (Baden-Durlach) alerted the local criminal court to unacceptable tavern-attendance after communion and the wasting of people’s resources on wine (Holenstein, Gute Policey, 480). Notes 239

5. Seventeenth-century English examples cited in Smyth, ed., Conviviality, 189, 200; similar evidence for early modern Münster in Holzem, ‘Kirche’, 453–4. 6. Holzem, Konfessionalisierung, 399; Beck, Dimanche, 79–80. The following passages draw on Kümin, ‘Rathaus’ and ‘Worldly tavern’. On the relationship between the sacred and the profane in general, see now Cabantous, Fêtes et clochers; Coster and Spicer, eds, Sacred Space. 7. Clark, Alehouse, 27, 152; Maistre, ‘Cabarets’, 309 (quote); Earnshaw, Pub, 11. 8. See e.g. the case of two Bavarian peasants reprimanded for linking Jesuits with the devil at an Altötting beerhouse in 1594 (Rankl, Landvolk, 530); and the evidence discussed under ‘Subversive potential’ in Chapter 4 above. 9. Zwinglian Zurich hoped to freeze numbers by drawing up a register in 1530, while Geneva and the Upper Palatinate briefly closed all public houses: Blanke, ‘Reformation’, 84–6; Schmid, ‘Oberpfalz’, 127. 10. So did clergymen in rural Westphalia: Holzem, ‘Kirche’, 450. 11. Riley, ed., Registra, 269–70 (St Albans; I owe this reference to Robert Swanson); Gercken, Reisen, vol. 1, 217 (Augsburg). 12. StAB, B V 147, p. 308 (1786); BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 96 (1806). 13. Information from Scheme: Holne Church Charity (Holne, 1987). 14. Brändle, ‘Clientelism’, 89. 15. Breitinger, ‘Wirths=Häuser’, 695. 16. Brändle, ‘Volkskultur’, 72; Prescott, Diary, ‘index of inns’. Parish vestry meetings also often took place in public houses: Turner, Diary, 67. 17. Lang, ‘Klerus’, 225 (Eichstätt, 1480); Focht, ‘Gebrauchsmusik’, 62. 18. Gifford, Countrie diuinitie, 3. 19. StAB, B V 143, p. 19. Cf. the catering facilities in spykers (tenements attached to the outer wall of churchyards) in rural Westphalia: Holzem, ‘Kirche’, 448. 20. Worb, Kirchgemeindearchiv, vol. 146: Seckelmeisterrechnungen (3 cr. and 5 b. paid to the innkeeper of the Lion for communion wine in the accounting period 1733–36); Thurner, ‘Obermenzing’, 269 (1684). 21. Hersche, ‘Lustreise’, 326. On the Bavarian ‘Holy Mountain’ at Andechs, pilgrims’ processions passed the monastic inn on the way up to the church: Kümin, ‘Worldly tavern’, 35. 22. StAB, B V 144, p. 72 (Mézières); Many Bavarian innkeepers enjoyed a customary monopoly on catering for family feasts: BayHStA, GR 878/186, pp. 469, 523 (manor of Oberzell and county of Ismaning). 23. I owe this observation to Angela McShane Jones. 24. Scribner, ‘Ideas’, 57–8 (‘the most common place for discussions about religion was the inn’), 60; Marsh, Religion, 169 (English Lollards); Kobelt-Groch, ‘Täufer’, passim (Anabaptists); Frearson, ‘Communications’, 276, 286 (Quakers). 25. Meiners, Briefe, pt 1, 315–16 (1780s). 26. Heinzmann, Bern, pt 1, 63 (1790s). 27. Alfred Messerli, ‘Konflikte um die Einführung neuer Kirchengesangbücher 1750–1850’ (Paper delivered to the conference Volkskulturen in der Schweiz 1600–1850, Zurich, June 2001); cf. Oettinger, Propaganda. 28. In 1603, Norwich innkeeper John Ormesbye listed ‘a boocke of martirs and a deske’ and ‘a Frame and the X commandments written’ in his inventory for the George Inn: Norfolk Record Office, Inv. 19/145B (I am grateful to John Craig for this reference). 29. In a striking illustration of these bonds, excommunicated members of a Württemberg community were also banned from attending public houses: Landwehr, Policey, 102 (1559). 240 Notes

30. Karant-Nunn, ‘Kommunikation’; Simon-Muscheid, ‘Brunnen’; on churchyards as sites of symbolic communication, see the workshop report ‘Der Kirchhof im Dorf’ (Münster, 2005: http://hsozkult.geschichte.hu-berlin.de/ tagungsberichte/id=754; 15/12/06). 31. On institutional dimensions of public spaces, cf. Rau and Schwerhoff, ‘Themen’, 24–5; on the ‘rooted’ nature of inns: Kachel, Herberge, 63–7. 32. In practice, mayors and market ofﬁcials could usually be elected, publicans at least in certain regions (cf. Chapter 1), while the appointment of parish priests remained an unfulﬁlled ambition for most localities: Kümin, Parish, 44–6. 33. For this key transformation in European history, see esp. Blickle, Kom- munalismus, vol. 1, 176; the basic parish network emerged at roughly the same time as that of public houses: Kümin, Parish, 21; for subsequent urban expansion, see Le Goff, ‘Town’, 73–8. 34. ‘A Bavarian village without a “proper” public house is not a “proper” Bavarian village’: Drexler, Kellnerin, 6; for endeavours to enhance ecclesiastical infrastructure, cf. Kümin, Parish, 172–9, 258. 35. The public house constituted an ‘antipole to the town hall with partly complementary functions’: Teuscher, Soziabilität, 200; city taverns in Renaissance Italy formed part of a sequence of ‘generative spaces of community’: Muir, ‘Community’, 10. 36. Fenske, ‘Marktkultur’, 337 (temporary catering facilities on market squares), and Scheutz, ‘Jahrmarkt’, 325 (synergies between markets and the catering trade). 37. Hennings, ed., Itzehoe, 228 (Nortdorf; I owe this reference to Enno Bünz). 38. Anne-Marie Dubler, ‘Unterseen’, in: HLS (www.dhs.ch). 39. Haller, ed., Rathsmanuale, vol. 3, 114. 40. Ibid., vol. 1, 136; sign reproduced in Kümin, ‘Gemeinde’, 81. 41. Clark, Alehouse, 152; Martin, Alcohol, 60–1. 42. A prime example is the instrumentalization of parish institutions for English local government: Hindle, ‘Parish’. See also the contributions on ‘church spaces’ in Dürr and Schwerhoff, eds, Tavernen. 43. Rau and Schwerhoff, ‘Themen’, 27; Holzem, ‘Kirche’, 460. 44. For a recent synthesis, see Reinhard, Staatsgewalt. 45. Raeff, Police State. 46. See esp. Henshall, Absolutism (limits of centralization), and Schlumbohm, ‘Gesetze’, esp. 659 (symbolic nature of legislation). 47. Hindle, State; Landwehr, Policey, esp. 322–9. 48. Holenstein, Gute Policey, 885; cf. the emphasis on local input and the ‘common good’ in Blickle, ed., Policey, and Kent, ‘State formation’. 49. Oestreich, ‘Absolutismus’; cf. Hsia, Discipline; Reinhard, ‘Confessionalization’. 50. For a differentiated survey, see Naphy, Calvin. 51. Schmidt, ‘Sozialdisziplinierung’; Dinges, ‘Justiznutzung’. 52. Escher, ed., ‘Wirtshäuser’ (1530); Clark, Alehouse, 41 (1577); BayHStA, StV 1853 (1580); StAB, B V 142 (1628). 53. Landwehr, Policey, 311 (effect of legislation); Müller-Wirthmann, ‘Raufhändel’, 81 (presentation of violent behaviour to criminal courts). 54. StAB, B V 143, p. 20 (Langnau); B V 144, p. 68 (L’Isle); B V 148, pp. 3, 20, 31 (all 1789). 55. BayHStA, GR 878/186, pp. 103 (Knodorf), 158 (Erlstätt) and similarly 159 (Surberg), 375 (Wolfsegg) etc. 56. Rechtsquellen Bern, pt 1, vol. 8/1, 199–200 (1571) and 210–11 (eighteenth century); StAB, A I 486, p. 364 (ordinance of 14 October 1665). Notes 241

57. StAB, B V 147, pp. 345–6. 58. StAB, B V 147, p. 1260. For tavern-related political conflicts between centre, localities and burghers, see Kümin, ‘Tensions’. 59. Koch, ed., Reichs-Abschiede, pt 4, 79. 60. SAL, Nr. 042: Mandatenbuch, p. 224 (1606); GANC, vol. 1.1, back cover (mandate 1654); cf. Baur, Wirtschaftsgesetzgebung, 28, 30. 61. BayHStA, Mandatensammlung, 1533/XI/11, f. 31 r (quote), and 1631/I/4; Hofkammer 1348 (1625); GR 878/186, p. 103 (Knodorf). The late eighteenth- century legal commentator Kreittmayr concurred: Anmerkungen, 808. 62. E.g. regarding gaming restrictions: Ortalli, ‘Taverna’, 65; Pauser, ‘Spill’, 40. 63. GANC, 10 July 1659, 1 August 1680. 64. Rechtsquellen Bern, pt 1, vol. 8/1, 205–7; early modern publicans were notori- ously reluctant to report offences by their patrons: Dülmen, Entstehung, 208. 65. Marschall and Bachofen, Chorgericht, 161–2. 66. GANC, 7 February 1686. 67. Ibid., 27 July 1684, 17 February 1675. Local officials were also cited before the nearby consistory of Köniz, where juror Hans Scherz faced corruption charges in 1626 for offering Jakob Strickler ‘to hush up his offence, in return for a few measures of wine’ (Gugger, Köniz, 18). The problem was universal: cf. Frank, ‘Publicans’, 41. 68. StAB, B V 147, p. 868 (1786). 69. Evidence includes Rechtsquellen Bern, pt 2, vol. 9, 16, 34, etc. (town of Burgdorf), and pt 2, vol. 1/1, 232 (Upper Simmental 1796); StAB, B V 147, p. 120 (Vaud 1786). On the lasting strength of communal bonds, cf. Hoffmann, Städte, 94 (Bavaria). 70. StAB, B V 142, pp. 16 (Laupen 1628), 40 (Aarberg 1628). Information on actual provision in Bartlome, ‘Landstädtchen’, 178 (Aarberg 1663), and StAB, A V 1111, pp. 347 (Laupen report 1656), 357 (demand by burghers), 361 (Klopfstein 1663), and ibid., A V 1113, pp. 9–18 (wine sale by Laupen’s gover- nor). Evidence for further public houses in Beyeler, Laupen, 63–7. 71. Tlusty, Bacchus, 212; Roberts, ‘Alehouses’, 49. 72. As confirmed by court records: Dufner, Engelberg, 14 (Catholic Engelberg); Schmidt, Religion, 142 (Zwinglian Bern). 73. Eibach, ‘Stadtfrieden’, 204; Schmidt, Religion, 375 (quote). Emphasis on nego- tiation over issues involving public houses: Tlusty, Bacchus, 211. 74. Habermas, Public Sphere, xviii (eighteenth century), 23–4 (other quotes). 75. McCarthy, ‘Introduction’, xi–xii. 76. Calhoun, ‘Habermas’, 4. For aspects of the debate, see the contributions in idem, ed., Public Sphere; Böker and Hibbard, eds, Spheres; Gestrich, ‘Habermas’. 77. Calhoun, ‘Habermas’, 36, 38–9; Zaret, Public Sphere, 4. 78. Würgler, Unruhen. Gestrich, ‘Habermas’, 428, also challenges the focus on the bourgeoisie. 79. ‘Reflections’, 427; effectively echoing Scott, Resistance. 80. Gall, Bürgertum, 84. 81. Behringer, Kommunikationsrevolution, 25, 672. 82. Calhoun, ‘Habermas’, 36 (neglect of religion); Wohlfeil, ‘Öffentlichkeit’. 83. Zaret, Public Sphere, esp. 81; specifically on the interplay between politics and religion: Freist, Communication. 84. Behringer, Kommunikationsrevolution, 17. 85. Cited and contested in Benhabib, ‘Space’, 78. 86. Darnton, Kommunikationsnetzwerke, 142; Hoffmann, ‘Öffentlichkeit’, 71. 242 Notes

87. Rau and Schwerhoff, ‘Themen’, 48. 88. Linde, ‘Krüge’, 18 (display of legislation in Lippe); Schlup and Giani, Auberges, 60–1 (hospitality offered to Neuchâtel subjects in the late 1600s); Laupen’s governor classed the Bear’s guest lounge explicitly as ‘a public place’ in 1765: StAB, A V 1113, pp. 899–900. 89. Heiss, ‘Wirtshaus’, 28; Freist, ‘Wirtshäuser’, title. In rural Zurich around 1500, the public house was ‘largely identical with the village public sphere’: Hürlimann, ‘Konsum’, 158. 90. Teuscher, Soziabilität, 267–8 (late medieval Bern); Scribner, ‘Kommunikation’, 184–5 (quote), and idem, ‘Ideas’, 62. 91. Brioist, ‘Sirène’. 92. O’Callaghan, ‘Tavern societies’, 37, 39, 44, 50, and ‘Patrons of the Mermaid tavern’, in: Oxford Dictionary of National Biography (http://www.oxforddnb.com/ view/theme/95279; 15 December 2006). 93. McShane Jones, ‘Drink’, 71, 87; Zaret, Public Sphere, 226, 236. 94. Behringer, Kommunikationsrevolution, 378; cf. Chapter 4 above. 95. Clark, Clubs, 21; Chartres, ‘Age’, 219 (quote). 96. Brewer, ‘Politics’, 241–4. Borsay, Renaissance, 144, 318, points to the political signiﬁcance of ‘recreational fora’ like inns for the aspiring middling sort. 97. Herz, ‘Leisewitz’, 231–2. 98. Tanner, Appenzell, 301; Holliger, ed., Bräker, 354. 99. They appear as polar opposites to ‘proletarian’ public houses e.g. in Beneder, Gasthaus, 10. For reassessments, see Cowan, ‘Gender’ and ‘Coffeehouse’. 100. Sale of alcohol documented e.g. in Munich 1798: Meyr, ed., Sammlung, vol. 6, 110; allusion to sexual services in Earnshaw, Pub, 122; for Enlightenment critique of ‘uncivil’ conditions in Bavarian coffee houses, see Prinz, Geschichte, 243. 101. Latham, ‘Taverns’, 417; London taverns were ‘the closest approximations to the later restaurants … both in their social functions and in the food they served’: Mennell, ‘Public sphere’, 249. 102. Rau and Schwerhoff, ‘Themen’, 18–20; cf. Hoffmann, ‘Öffentlichkeit’, 108–10; the quote from Calhoun, ‘Habermas’, 37. 103. For the state of the debate, see H-German’s discussion forum on ‘confessionalization’: http://www.h-net.org/~german/discuss/Confessionalization/Confess_ index.htm (15 February 2005). 104. Emphasis on choice in Musgrave, Economy, 35. 105. As argued in Thompson, ‘Time’. 106. Evidence of pre-industrial forms of leisure in Marfany, ‘Leisure’, esp. 190–1, and Ortalli, ‘Tempo libero’. For a fuller discussion of these issues, see Kümin, ‘Freizeit’, and Rosseaux, Freiräume.

Conclusions

1. Wettmann-Jungblut, ‘Gewalt’, 46; Muchembled, Violence, 207 (quote). 2. Cf. e.g. Clark, ‘Society’; Scott, Resistance; and Wrightson, ‘Alehouses’ with Tlusty, Bacchus; and Rau and Schwerhoff, ‘Themen’. 3. Behringer, Kommunikationsrevolution, 42. 4. Sinclair, ed., Scotland, 73, 456. 5. Löw, Raumsoziologie, 271–3. Bibliography

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Unpublished works

Altorfer-Ong, Stefan, ‘State Building without Taxation: The Political Economy of Government Finance in the Eighteenth-Century Republic of Bern’ (PhD London School of Economics, 2007) Ammann, Fréderic, ‘Bernische Gasthäuser’ (Grenchen, 1975) Andrews, James N., ‘Inns, Hotels, Taverns and Brothels in Pompeii and Heraculan- eum’ (PhD University of Warwick, 2000) Brändle, Fabian, ‘Zwischen Volkskultur und Herrschaft: Wirtshäuser und Wirte in der Fürstabtei St. Gallen 1550–1795’ (MA Zurich, 1996) Braun, Hans, ‘Die Ungeld- und Böspfennigrechnungen der Stadt Bern 1686/87– 1692/93’ (Seminar paper, University of Bern, 1990) Brown, James, ‘Public Houses in Early Modern Southampton’ (PhD University of Warwick, forthcoming) Bühler-Bättig, Helmut, ‘Verwalteter Tanz: Luzerns K(r)ampf mit der Lust. Ein Beitrag zur Sittengeschichte des 18. Jahrhunderts’ (MA Bern, 1998) [since published in modiﬁed form in Der Geschichtsfreund 157 (2004)] Ebener, Hans Anton, ‘Staatsbauten auf der Berner Landschaft im 18. Jahrhundert: Kosten, Unterhalt, Verwaltung’ (PhD University of Bern, 1997) Flather, Amanda, ‘The Gendering of Space in Early Modern Essex, c. 1580 to 1720’ (PhD University of Essex, 2002) [now published as Gender and Space in Early Modern England (Woodbridge, 2006)] Müller, Felix, ‘Wirte und Wirtschaften in Zoﬁngen 1450–1600’ (MA Zurich, 1990) Rütte, Hans von, ‘Ländliches Gewerbe in Bern im 18. Jahrhundert: Problemstellung und empirische Untersuchung’ (MA Bern, 1983) Index

This is primarily a list of subjects, supplemented by the most prominent places and individuals featured in the book. Names of speciﬁc public houses appear under the respective locations. Towns, regions and villages outside the case studies of Bern and Bavaria are entered under their countries.

à la carte, see public houses/dining assemblies, see association culture association, Fig. 3; 20, 126, 129–30, 139, Aarau, Sword, 124 158, 163, 169, 171, 177, 183, 185, Aarberg, 75 187–8 Aargau, Bernese, Fig. 1, Fig. 4; 5, 53, 90 authorities, 37, 55, 67, 74–82, 98, absolutism, 179–80 100–1, 128, 139, 147, 162–3, 166, accommodation, Pl. XIII, 23; and see 187, 192–4; central, 47, 53–4, 74–6, public houses/interiors 78, 81, 108, 158, 179–80, 184; acculturation, 63 ecclesiastical, 80–1, 95, 173–5, 180; advertising, see public houses local, 2, 23, 52, 61, 108, 158; agriculture, 5, 39, 57, 87, 97, 164; and support for public houses, 158–9 see peasants, villages and see ofﬁcials alcohol(ism), 2–3, 9, 17, 19–20, 27, 29, 39, 52, 64–6, 70, 72, 80, 87, 90, Bacchus, 151, 160, 187, 194 99–100, 102, 116, 125–7, 131, banquets, see public houses/dining 136–7, 139, 141–2, 149, 151, 153, culture 164, 173, 175, 183–4, 188, 191–2, baptism, see rites of passage 194, 196; and see drunkenness, Baroque, Pl. II, 37, 108, 152 public houses/drinking culture baths/bathing establishments, Fig. 5; ale, 17, 29, 100, 160; and see beer, Graph 2b; 20–1, 27, 32, 34, 94, 113, wheat beer 158 alehouses, Fig. 15; Pl. XV; 1, 3, 29, 31, Bavaria, duchy/electorate, Graphs 1b, 55, 62–3, 68, 103, 124–5, 127, 133, 2a; Tables 1–2, Table 6; 5, 7–8, 139–40, 152, 164, 184, 187, 194; 17–18, 20, 23, 25, 27, 29–31, 33, 39, and see public houses 42, 52–3, 55, 58, 65, 67–8, 75–6, 78, Alling, 141 81–2, 90, 97, 100, 108–9, 117, 119, Alps, Pl. X, 13, 42, 54, 66, 68, 109, 169 123–4, 133, 140, 148, 161–4, 173–4, America, 4 180, 182, 184 Amsoldingen, 18, 37 Beatis, Antonio de, 103, 110 Anabaptists, 52, 69, 121, 163 bedchambers, see public anthropology, 3, 125 houses/interiors Antiquity, 2, 19 beer (brown), 9, 17–18, 20, 29, 39, 61, Anzing, Post, 142 64–5, 80, 87, 90, 100–3, 109, 124, archaeology, 3, 106 133, 153, 158, 160, 193; and see ale, architecture, Fig. 26; Pl. I–II; 3, 37, wheat beer 153–5, 194; and see public beerhouses, 55, 61, 90, 123 houses/premises beggars, see poor art (history), Pl. XI, 3, 67, 148–50, 194 Beham, brothers, 42, 149, 175 artisans, 23, 57–8, 65, 105, 192 Behringer, Wolfgang, 116

271 272 Index

Bel, Pierre, 117 Burghausen, 7 Bern, Republic of, Fig. 1, Fig. 5, Fig. 30; burghers, Fig. 31; 10, 18, 21, 23, 53, 128, Graphs 1a, 2b; Pl. XI, XVII; Tables 162; and see towns 1–2; 5–8, 17, 25–7, 29–31, 37, 42, Butzbach, Johannes, 112 50, 52–3, 55, 61, 65, 71, 75, 80–3, 91, 97–8, 100–2, 112–13, 117, 123, Calvin(ism), 80, 136, 152, 168, 180, 131, 139, 142, 148, 158–9, 161–4, 194; and see Reformation, 174–5, 177, 180–2, 180, 183, 192, Zwinglianism see also Aargau, Oberland, Vaud; carnival, 163 city of, Fig. 17, Fig. 22; Pl. VIII, 20, carriers, Fig. 16; Pl. VII, 1, 23, 27, 36, 58, 23, 30, 47, 53, 68, 79, 119, 184; 61, 65, 67, 69, 95, 105, 113, 117, Bear, 159, Bell, 66, 121, 159, 148, 161, 194 Crown, 68, 97, 124, 128, 159, 169, Cary, John, 117 Falcon, Fig. 29, 4, 13, 47, 62, 68–9, Casanova, Giacomo, 110, 113, 121, 100–1, 107–8, 122, 128, 159, 127 Key, 159, Klösterli, 24, 68, castles, Fig. 31; 32, 35, 148, 177 Hôtel de Musique, 20, Sun, 128, Catholicism, Pl. VI, 5–6, 65, 71, 80–2, White Cross, 159 133, 136, 152–3, 163, 173–4, beverages, see alcohol, public 176 houses/drinking culture and celebrations, see festive culture specific drinks cellars, see public houses/interiors Bex, 110 cereal substitution, 102, 168 Biberen, 70 Cessolis, Jacobus de, 148 Biel, Crown, 91 chapels, see churches billeting, see military affairs charity, see poor blasphemy, 76, 132, 150, 168, 173, 183; Chaucer, Geoffrey, 9, 150 and see swearing children, Pl. V, XII; 67 Böckel, Gotthard, 156 chocolate, 188 Bodin, Jean, 162 chronology, 17, 69, 156, 167–9, 171, borders, Pl. VI, 32, 54, 148 178–89 bourgeois (society), 1, 11, 63, 69, 99, Church (institution), Fig. 15; 25, 52, 102, 110–11, 166, 171, 185, 188 54–5, 80–1, 131, 139, 163, 168, Brackenhoffer, Elie, 169 173–5, 180, 189; and see clergy, Brathwaite, Richard, 151 officials/ecclesiastical, religion Bräker, Ulrich, 68–9, 91, 95, 125, 129, church houses, 174 132, 159, 195 churches, Fig. 7, Fig. 14; Pl. VI, XVI, 1, brandy (shops), Fig. 25; 9, 17, 30, 61, 21, 32–4, 36, 58, 123, 130, 138, 100, 108, 168, 193 145, 148–9, 165, 172–8, 188, 192, brawling, see violence 195 Breitinger, Johann Jacob, 174 cider, 17 brewer(ie)s, Fig. 7; 18, 25, 27, 30, 32, civility, 152, 156, 159, 186–8, 196 35–6, 38, 53–4, 58, 60, 62, 90, 97, civilizing process, 63, 184 102, 140, 154, 159, 162–4, Clark, Peter, 3, 63, 187 192–3 clergy, Pl. XIII, 18, 22–3, 54, 62, 64, 65, bridges, Fig. 22; Pl. VI, 32, 47, 52, 148, 67, 71, 81, 121, 133, 148, 150, 152, 165 159, 172–8, 183 Brienz, Pl. X climate, 15, 17, 29, 164 Brouwer, Adriaen, Pl. XIX; 10, 149 clubs, 21, 152, 171, 187–8 Bruck, see Fürstenfeldbruck coffee (houses), 1, 20, 30–1, 55, 70, Brueghel, Pieter the Elder, 149 99–100, 103–4, 140, 159, 168–9, Burgdorf, 75, 128 185–8, 193, 195 Index 273 commemoration, Fig. 14; 149 material culture, popular culture, commercialization, 23, 103, 111, 130, public houses/dining culture 149, 188 custom(ary law), 76–7, 125 common good, 25, 77–8, 156 commune, see communities Dachau, district of, Fig. 2, Fig. 6, Fig. 14; communication, 3–4, 20–1, 94, 110, Graph 1b; Pl. II, 8, 26, 30, 33, 80; Ch. 4, 168, 174, 179, 185–7, 193–4; market/town of, Figs. 6–7; Pl. III–IV, communication revolution, 117, XVI, 9, 18, 29, 32–6, 58, 60, 65, 78, 168–9, 194, 196 81, 95, 100–1, 108, 113, 128, 137, communities (local), 2, 10, 21, 74–82, 149, 158; Altlwirt, Pl. III; 36; cook 130, 145, 152, 159, 163, 172, 176, shop, 36; Lion, Table 3, 36; mead 179, 183, 187, 193 house, Fig. 7; Pl. IV, 36, 62; comparative approaches, 4 Mitterbräu, 36; Ober-/ confession, 5, 8, 80, 123, 163, 173, Hörhammerbräu, 36, 58; Steiger-/ 176–7, 180, 195; and see Zieglerbräu, 36; Unterbräu, 35; Anabaptism, Calvinism, wine inn, 36, 113 Catholicism, Protestantism, dancing, 70; and see public Zwinglianism houses/entertainments confessionalization, 145, 189, 195 defamation, 9 consistory courts, 9, 21, 60, 71–2, 81, democracy, 185 127, 131, 135–6, 138, 141, 172, Denmark, Pl. XII; 104 183 devil, 143, 150, 152–3 constitution, 5, 74, 179, 186, 195 diet, 3, 87, 100, 106; and see cereal consumers, consumption, 1–3, 19–20, substitution, food, public 54, 64–5, 70, 80–1, 83, 99–111, 116, houses/dining culture 126, 131, 142, 151, 153, 168–9, dining, see public houses/dining culture 177–8, 195 drinking, see public houses/drinking conviviality, see sociability culture and specific drinks cook shops, Fig. 7; 2, 19–20, 23, 30, 103, drinking houses; Fig. 6; Graphs 1b, 2a; 109, 140 Pl. IV, 17, 26–7, 30, 33–4, 108, 147, cookery books, 109 171, 173, 191; and see Coryate, Thomas, 107, 125 ale/beerhouses, public houses, Cotgrave, John, 151 taverns council, see authorities/local, drunkenness, 81, 131–2, 136, 142, 150, officials/local 153, 168, 172, 184, 194 court records, Tables 6–7; 9, 27, 50, 72, Dülmen, Richard van, 63 132, 134–8, 163 courthouses, 32, 37, 148, 165, 192 Earle, John, 62, 124, 142, 159–60 courts (of law), see consistory courts, early modern, 10–11 and passim jurisdiction economy, 39, 53, 57–8, 62, 64, 75, 82, courts (princely), see princes 87, 97–9, 102, 114, 124, 131, 153, courtship, 71 158, 164, 168, 177, 189, 192–3, 195 Coxe, William, 103 Eggiwil, 24, 175 credit, 98, 141, 150 electioneering, 10, 54, 122, 163 crime, Fig. 15; Table 6; 3, 52, 63, 67, elites, Fig. 17; Pl. XVIII; 58, 60, 63, 66, 77, 79, 95, 101, 130–42, 161, 69–70, 75, 90, 99, 106–7, 111, 119, 191, 194; and see specific 128, 138, 149, 151–3, 159, 162, 166, offences 171, 176, 180, 184–6, 188, 192–3 crockery, see public houses Emmental, Fig. 4, 42 culture, 1, 3–4, 50, 70, 174, 176–7, 179, Empire, see Holy Roman Empire 185, 194–6; and see festive culture, encyclopaedias, Fig. 27; 156–8 274 Index

England, Table 2, Table 5; 2–3, 8–10, food, Pl. VIII, Pl. X, 3, 18, 20, 23, 43, 54, 17–18, 24–5, 29–31, 37, 39, 42, 57, 61, 77, 79, 83, 87, 90, 99, 102–11, 62–3, 67, 69, 72, 78–80, 94, 97–8, 119, 124, 149, 158, 161, 187, 193; 100, 105, 112, 114, 117, 122, 124, and see fish, meat, public 126, 129–30, 132–3, 135, 139–40, houses/dining culture 149, 152–3, 155, 160–1, 163–5, Foxe, John, 176 173–4, 176, 180, 184, 186–8, 192; France, Fig. 25, Fig. 27; 4, 10, 17, 110, Burford, 4, 36, Bear, 36, Bull, 36, 94, 117, 133, 158, 165; Paris, 4, 19, 23, George, 36; Cambridge, White 30, 63, 72, 91, 100, 104, 106, 111, Horse, 69; Hereford, 127; London, 124, 129, 140, 186 9, 19–20, 95, 107, 109, 111, 117, Franck, Sebastian, 152 119, 124, 152, 161, 165, 168, 171, Fribourg, Pl. VI, 6 177, 195, Mermaid, 109, 152, 187; Friderich, Matthäus, 153 Ludlow, Fig. 15; Middlesex, 125; furnishings, see public houses/interiors Northampton, Goat, 69, 130, Fürstenfeldbruck, Fig. 6; 8, 18, 29, 31, Swan, 69, 130; Oxford, coffee 33, 119; Post, 119 house, 20, King’s Head, 125, New Inn, 4; Southwark, Tabard galleries, see public houses/premises Inn, 9, 150; Terling, Table 6, games, see public 152 houses/entertainments Enlightenment, 21, 99, 117, 129, 131, gardens, see public houses/premises 153, 169, 185–8 gastro-discourse, 110 entertainments, see public gastronomy, 99, 102, 104, 107, 109–11; houses and see public houses/dining Erasmus of Rotterdam, 1, 65, 102, 104, culture 110, 158, 160 gender, 3, 62–3, 70–4, 95, 131, 141; and Erdweg, Table 3 see masculinity, patrons/female, Eulenspiegel, 150–1 public houses/staff, Europe, 5 and passim publicans/female, women Evelyn, John, 112 Gercken, Philipp, 21, 68, 103, 109, excise, see taxation 131 German(y), see Holy Roman Empire face-to-face society, 115–16, 187, gin (parlours), 10, 17–18, 149, 169, 194 193 farmhouse, 39, 42 glasses, see public houses/dining fashion, 38, 154, 165 culture fast food, see public houses/dining Glauser, Fritz, 87, 90 culture gluttony, see patrons/behaviour festive culture, Pl. V, XVIII, 10, 19, 65, Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von, Pl. 70–1, 81, 87, 108, 124, 150, 152, XVIII; 23, 94, 121–2, 128, 169 163, 175, 177 Gray, Robert, 60, 129 feudal(ism), 8–9, 25, 52, 55, 61, 74–9, Grimsel pass, 23 81, 122, 128, 147, 156, 179, 192; Grossman, Elisabeth, Pl. X and see nobility Guarinonius, Hippolytus, 9, 129, 132, Fielding, Henry, 151 153 fiscal, see taxation guesthouses, 22–3 fish, Pl. VIII; 102–3, 105–10, 129, 193; guests, see patrons and see food, meals guidebooks, see travel guides Flüe, St Niklaus von, 121 guild (halls), 21, 23, 30, 52, 70, 125, Flühmann, Elsi, 71 177 Folz, Hans, 124 guinguettes, 23 Index 275

Gümmenen, 27, 33, Fig. 22; Bear, hospices, 2, 23, 67 Fig. 12, Fig. 22; 47, 127; White hospitality, 2, 23–4, 52, 54, 99–114, 117, Cross, Fig. 22; 62 126, 128, 156, 167–8, 174, 188; and Güntzer, Augustin, 133 see accommodation, public houses hospitals, 22 Habermas, Jürgen, 20, 166, 185–8 hostels, 22–3 Halfpenny, William Fig. 26; 155 hotels, 31, 169 Haller, Albrecht von, 44 Hasli, 23 iconography, 3 health, see medicine Im Hof, Christoph, Fig. 19; 94, 119, 149 Heimbach, Wolfgang, Pl. XII; 104 India, 4 Heinzmann, Johann Georg, 62, 155 indirect taxes, see taxation Hermiswil, Little Horse, Fig. 23; 119 individual(s), 10, 111 Herzogenbuchsee, Sun, 65, 101 information, see news highways, Fig. 1, Fig. 7; Pl. VII; 7–8, 13, infrastructure, 3, 85, 94, 98, 112, 30–4, 36–7, 47, 61, 69, 72, 80, 82, 116–22, 128, 147–8, 159, 164–5, 90, 94, 102, 119, 148, 165, 169, 181, 168, 171, 176–7, 186, 193, 195–6 192, 195 Ingolstadt, Fig. 2, 8 Hindelbank, Lion, 132 inns, Figs 4–8, Figs 10–12, Fig. 16, Figs historiography, 2–5, 42, 63, 70, 75, 85, 18–23, Fig. 26, Fig. 29; Graphs 1a–b, 99, 115–17, 126, 150, 161, 178, 191; 2a–b; Pl. XIII, XVI–XVII; Table 5; and see theory 1–2, 4, 9, 13, 15, 17–19, 21, 23–4, Hogarth, William, 10, 149 26–7, 29–35, 37, 39, 42, 44–5, 47, Holy Roman Empire, Fig. 16, Fig. 20, 54–5, 58, 60–1, 65, 68, 71, 75, 85, Fig. 24, Fig. 27; Pl. XII, 3, 7–8, 17, 87, 91, 94–5, 98, 100, 102–13, 117, 68, 78, 97, 110, 119, 125, 128, 136, 122, 128, 139, 149, 153–5, 158, 161, 149, 158, 164, 174–5, 177, 181, 166, 174, 178, 187–8, 191; and see 186–7; Aachen, 30; Augsburg, public houses Fig. 2; 3, 24, 58, 67, 80, 102–3, 116, interactions, see social exchange 126, 133, 162, 177, 181, Three interdisciplinarity, 3–4 Moors, 173; Baden (-Durlach), 179; Interlaken, Fig. 11; Table 3; 45 Brandenburg, 130; Braunschweig, interpretations, Ch. 5 24, 188; Burgundy, Pl. XIII; Italy, 4, 24, 133, 164, 167; Bressanone, Canstein, Table 6; 54, 166; 30, Elephant, 4, 61, 112; Milan, 77, Frankfurt a.M., Table 6; 127, Three Kings, 112; Rome, 19; Red House, 37, 112, Unicorn, 95; Venice, 20 Görlitz, 95, 159; Hamburg, 94; Idstein, Lion, 76–7, 80; Innsbruck, Jäger, Johann, 140 30, 47, 95, Golden Eagle, 37; Krems, Jegenstorf, 54, 107, Bear, 82 Golden Hart, 127; Lippe, Table 6; 4, Jews, 67, 69, 129 42, 64, 69–70, 108, 112, 127, 142, Johnson, Samuel, 152 152; Miltenberg, Giant, 112; Jonson, Ben, 150, 152, 187 Nuremberg, 18, 110, 112; Prussia, jurisdiction, 9, 21, 25, 54, 75–6, 83, 96, 69, 95; Regensburg, Fig. 2; Swabia, 128–30, 134, 139, 141–2, 150, 165, 69; Triberg, 130; Tyrol, 18, 54, 60, 171, 179, 186 187; Vienna, 19–20, 23; jurisprudence, 156 Württemberg, 60, 70, 98; and see Italy Kaisersberg, Johann Geiler von, 9, 81, honour, 9, 98, 124–5, 131–2, 136, 141, 152 172, 194 Kalchmatten, 132 hops, 100 karawansarays, 4 276 Index kermis or kermess, Pl. V, 42, 71, 136, manors, see feudal(ism) 163, 175 Manuel, Hans Rudolf, 150 kinship, 61, 95, 124, 126, 167 maps, Figs 1–2, Figs 4–7, Fig. 22; 2, 10, kitchens, 19, 103, 109; and see public 117 houses/interiors marginal groups, 65, 76, 79, 167 Knigge, Freiherr von, 105, 155–6 market squares / markets, 1, 32, 34, 37, Köniz, Fig. 9, Fig. 28; Table 3; 31, 43, 136 65, 71–2, 97–8, 107–8, 112, 116, Kreittmayr, Freiherr von, 19 119, 132, 139–40, 142, 148, 165, Küttler, Johann Georg, 140 171, 176–8, 185, 189, 192–3, 195; and see trade labourers, Table 3; 23, 39, 65, 69, 87 masculinity / masculinization / men, land, 25, 38–42, 52, 58 Fig. 24; 5, 21, 63, 131, 141, 168, 192 landscape, see public houses/topography material culture, 3 Landshut, 7 Maximilian I, Bavarian elector, 78, Langnau, 180, Bear, 33; Lion, 33 105–6, 132 Laupen, district of, Fig. 1, 6, 8, 27, 33, mead (houses), 17, 30, 100, 108, 158, 39, 62, 101, 153; town of, Fig. 31; 6, 160; and see Dachau/town 30, 33, 53, 108, 183, Bear, Fig. 31, meals, see public houses/dining culture Cross, Fig. 31, Crow, Fig. 31, Lion, meat, Pl. VIII, XII; 43, 45, 76, 102–3, Fig. 31 105–9, 163, 193; and see food, Lauperswil, Pl. IX; Table 6; Lion, 133, meals 141 media, 94, 115–17, 122–6, 129, 165, Lausanne, 23, 136, Golden Lion, 69 171, 177, 185–8, 194 legislation, 3, 8–9, 18, 25, 42, 50, 54–5, medicine, 20–1, 23, 36, 66, 71–2, 101, 65–7, 76–9, 83, 94, 105–6, 125, 111, 153, 194 127–8, 131, 138, 141, 147, 156, 161, Meiners, Christoph, 13, 15, 67–8, 94–5, 163, 166, 168, 179–80, 184, 192–5; 110, 121, 128, 155, 169 enforcement, 78–9, 81, 181–2; and Meiringen, 94 see public houses/licenses men, see masculinity leisure, 20, 23, 99, 111, 131, 169, 171, mercantilism, 100, 147, 156, 158 178, 189 merchants, 2; and see trade Leuenberger, Niklaus, 139 Merian, Matthäus, 10 licence, licensing, 18, 20, 24–5, 31, 37, method, 25, 27–9, 135, 161–71 39, 42, 47, 50, 52–5, 66, 74–6, micro-spaces, 15 78–80, 82, 102, 108, 152, 156, 158, Middle Ages, pl. XIII, 1–2, 10, 19, 24, 163, 165, 169, 178, 183, 193 70, 80, 103, 110–12, 117, 168, 176, literature, Pl. XIII, 3, 9, 62, 64, 72, 111, 187, 191 124, 133, 137, 143, 149–53, 159–61, military affairs, Fig. 16, Fig. 25; 5, 17, 168 53, 61–2, 67–8, 76–8, 122, 128, local government, 11 136–7, 139–40, 150, 164, 179–80 lodging, see public houses/interiors milk, 43, 100 lounges, see public houses/interiors Misson, Henri, 20, 109 Low Countries, see Netherlands mobility, Fig. 22; 82, 103, 112, 116–22, Löw, Martina, 15 164, 178, 191, 194; and see Lumberger, Ignaz, Pl. III publicans/social mobility, travellers Lüscherz, Three Fish, Fig. 8 modern(ization), modern period, 10, Luther(anism), 9, 136, 152–3, 175 117, 142, 153, 169, 189, 195 luxury, 106, 112, 156, 168, 193–4 monarchies, 5 monasteries, see churches, clergy magic, 64, 133 monks, see clergy Maisach, 33 monopolies, 19, 53, 158 Index 277

Montaigne, Michel de, 110 Oestreich, Gerhard, 180 moral reform, 9, 25, 150–3, 156, 163, officials, 27, 54, 74, 142, 152, 158–9, 168, 180, 182, 184, 194; and see 179, 192; central, Pl. VIII, 5, 108, patrons/behaviour 113, 128, 182; ecclesiastical, Pl. IX; Morges, Red Lion, 112 54, 60, and see clergy; local, Pl. III, Moritz, Carl Philip, 67, 69, 97, 104, 119, 21, 25, 42, 54–5, 60, 62, 72, 76, 124 78–9, 97, 121, 128, 137–8, 141, 174, Morland, George, Pl. XV; 149 176, 178, 183; regional, Fig. 3, Pl. Moryson, Fynes, 68, 97, 110, 131 XV; 44, 76, 79, 81–3, 128–9, 175, Moudon, 129 181; and see authorities, Church, Muchembled, Robert, 63 state multifunctionality, see public Opsopoeus, Vincentius, 151 houses/functions oral(ity), Fig. 24; 122 Munich, Fig. 2, Figs 6–7; 7–8, 18, 20, order, 3 30, 36, 58, 80, 106, Huntsman, Ostade, Adriaen van, 149 140 Ott, Anton, 121, 149 Münsingen, Pl. I, 31, 54, 102; Bear, Ovid, 151 Graph 3; Pl. I, Table 3, 102, 140, 181; Lion, Graph 3; Table 3; 60, parish churches, see churches 102; Ox, Graph 3; 60, 64, 102 parties, political, 69, 124, 130 Murgenthal, Lion, 62 passes, 32, 165 Murten, Fig. 1, Fig. 22; Pl. VII; 7, 47, patronage, 121–2, 126, 129, 174; and 113, 119 see publicans/brokers music, see public houses/entertainments patrons, Fig. 16, Fig. 24; Pl. V, VII, XII, Myconius, Oswald, 125 XIV, XIX; Table 6; 1–2, 19, 32, 52, 63–74, 82, 85, 91, 94, 100–1, 104, Netherlands, Pl. V, XIV, 10, 149, 164, 111, 130, 136, 151, 165, 182, 189, 196; Amsterdam, 19, 23 191–2 networks, 116–17, 126, 147, 158, 168, attendance pattern, 64–5 176, 186–7, 191, 194 banned from attendance, 64, 70, 141, Neuenegg, Pl. VI; Tables 6–7; 8–9, 21, 153 29, 33, 54, 60, 65, 108, 130–2, behaviour, Fig. 20; Table 6; 21, 25, 63, 135–6, 138, 172, 182; Bear, Pl. VI, 65, 72, 76, 81, 131–2, 140, 143, 67, 70–2, 97, 132, 141, 172, 183 150–3, 155–6, 168, 173, 182–3, Neuherberg, see New Inn 192; and see crime, sexuality New Inn (Neuherberg), Table 3, Table 5; female, Figs 16–17, Fig. 21; Fig. 30; 9, 36, 52–3, 96–7, 108 Pl. VII; 1, 70–4, 104, 111, 132, news(papers), Pl. XIV; 20, 94, 115–17, 136, 153, 171, 192 121, 127, 171, 185, 187, 194 numbers, 64 night, 132 social status, Pl. XIV; 65–70 nobility, Fig. 16; 5, 9, 25, 55, 58, 67, 79, peasants, Pl. VII, XV, XIX, 5, 10, 54, 65, 91, 97, 105, 109, 154, 159, 162, 183; 67, 71–2, 131, 136, 149, 175–6, and see feudal(ism) 192–3; and see agriculture, villages Nyon, White Cross, 169 Peasants’ War, German, 5, 126, 139 Peasants’ War, Swiss, 76, 139, 178 oaths, 21, 137, 141, 167, 183, 192; and peddlers, Fig. 16; Pl. XII, 19, 67, 70 see publicans/responsibilities pedestrians, 18–19, 67, 113; and see Oberbipp, Bear, 130 travellers Oberland, Bernese, Fig. 1, Fig. 3; 9, 38, Pennell, Sara, 19 53–4, 76, 94, 128, 166, 183 pensions, 23, 30 Obermenzing, Table 3; 175 Pepys, Samuel, 24, 133, 159, 188 278 Index periodicals, see news(papers) choice in, 76, 105–9, 111, 164–5, 193, Perlach, Table 3; 9, 38, 57, 61, 67, 104, 195 113, 123 dangers of, 25, 78, 143, 149, 152–3, Petershausen, Pl. II; Pertrichhof, Pl. II, 37 158, 160, 169, 173, 178 Peyer, Hans-Conrad, 3 definition, Fig. 27; 2, 191 Pezzl, Johann, 153 dining culture, Fig. 21; Pl. VIII, pilgrimage, Pl. XIII, 2, 19, 24, 61, 108, XI–XII; 102–5, 169, 193; à la carte, 111, 121, 132, 152, 163, 165, 167, 19, 107, 111, 165, 167, 193; 175, 192 convenience dining, 19; crockery, Pinte(nschenke), see ale/beerhouses, Fig. 21; Pl. VIII, XI–XII; 47, 102, tapsters, taverns 104, 106–7; cutlery, Pl. XI; 104, Platina, Bartolomeo, 110 107; event catering, 107–8; fast Platter, Thomas, 67, 125, 127 food, 19, 103, 109, 165, 193; police state, see state fasting rules, 76, 79, 106, 138, politics, 20–1, 69, 80, 127–30, 138–42, 163, 168; meals, Figs 12–13, 149–50, 158, 162–3, 169, 171, Fig. 21; Pl. VIII, XI–XII, 17, 19, 176–8, 180, 185, 187–8, 194–5 21, 23–4, 42, 54, 67–8, 76, 91, 94, poor (relief), Pl. XII, 2, 23, 30, 52, 55, 99, 102–11, 113–14, 121, 124–5, 57–8, 63, 66–7, 78, 98, 103, 129, 128, 151, 166, 175, 191–3; 174, 182, 184, 192 menu cards, 107; quality, 109; popular culture, 1, 63, 70, 139, 173, room service, 105; snacks, 103; 186, and see culture, festive culture, table d’hôte, 19, 106, 111, 129, public houses/dining culture 151, 166–7, 193; tablecloths, population, Tables 1–2, 30–1, 78, 82, Fig. 21; Pl. XI–XII; take away, 148, 165 18–19, 107–9, 193; and see fish, ports, 32, 148, 165 food, meat post(al network), Fig. 23; 47, 58, 94–5, drinking culture, Fig. 16; Pl. VII, 1–3, 116–17, 119, 148, 171, 194; 10, 17, 20–1, 47, 54, 62, 64, 71–2, diligences, 119; postchaise, 117; 79, 83, 85, 87, 91, 97, 99, 100–2, and see publicans/postmasters, 124–6, 129, 131, 137, 151, 153, stage-coaches 161, 168, 171, 176, 192; glasses, premises, see public houses Fig. 24; Pl. X–XI; 48, 104, 110, priests, see clergy 113; jugs, Fig. 13; measures, 78–9, princes, 25, 31, 53–5, 69, 75, 77–8, 81, 138; and see individual drinks 105, 129, 139, 179–80, 182, 184 dues (feudal/financial), 25, 52, 55, print(ing), 8, 91, 122, 125–6, 186; and 57–8, 61–2, 77, 79–80, 87, 90, see news(papers) 138, 156, 174, 192; see also private (sphere), 3, 112, 116, 126, 137, taxation 142, 165–7, 169, 192 entertainments, 1, 21, 129–30, 173; Probst, Marianne, 62 dances, Fig. 30; 10, 19, 48, 70–2, professionalization, 62, 169 81, 94–5, 123, 127, 163, 182–4, prostitution, 70, 72, 74, 95, 150, 156, 167 189; games, Fig. 20; Pl. XIX; 20, Protestant, 80; and see specific 67, 76, 79, 127, 149–50, 174, 189; denominations music, Fig. 30; 1, 21, 95, 123–4, proto-industry, 5, 30, 164 175–6; sports, 94, 127, 169, 195; psalms, 175–6 theatre, 124–5, 132, 150–1 public, 2, 165–7, 192 (as) facilitators, 115, 138, 191 public houses (for specific establishments fragmentation, 169, 171, 195 see the respective place names) functions, Pt. II, 42, 156, 158, 165–6, advertising, Figs 18–19; Pl. IX; 2, 185, 196; multifunctionality, 21, 91–5, 169 85, 176–8, 191, 195–6; stabilizing, Index 279

126–30, 191, 194; subversive, profits, see publicans/income 130–42, 191, 194, 196 registers, Figs 4–6, Fig. 31; Graphs ground plans, Figs 9–11, Fig. 26 1a–b, 2a–b; Tables 1–2; 8, 25–34, illegal, Fig. 5; 25, 32–3, 78, 138, 42, 47, 55, 61, 75, 80, 82, 148, 180–1, 183 161, 180, 193 interiors, Figs 9–11, Fig. 26; 42–7, 112, rights (baking, slaughtering etc), 48, 154–5, 166–7; accommodation, 52, 76–7, 108–9, 138, 158–9 Figs 10–11, Pl. XIII, 17–19, 24, 38, services, 25, 94, 98, 117, 126–30, 42, 44–5, 47, 68, 87, 90–1, 99, 154–5, and see infrastructure 108, 111–13, 129, 132–3, 138, sizes, 38 147, 155, 158, 160, 167, 191, 194; social construction, 11, 15, 50, 159, cellars, Figs 9–11, Fig. 17, Fig. 26; 189, 191, 195–6 Pl. VII, XVII; 18, 30, 37–8, 43–5, staff, Fig. 16; Pl. X, XII; 39, 44–5, 50, 47, 53, 95, 100, 175; court rooms, 55, 60, 63, 67, 70, 72, 87, 90–1, Fig. 11, 45, 47, 128–30; 95–7, 102, 107, 109–10, 137, 141, decorations, 47, 91, 103–4, 108, 151, 154, 166–7, 193; female, 125, 128, 149, 160, 178; Figs 20–1; 95–7; tips, 97 furnishings, Fig. 9, Fig. 24; Pl. XII, standards, 38, 99, 155, 160, 163–5, XIV–XV, 19, 37, 42–49, 67, 104, 168–9 111–13, 125, 140, 148–9, 154–5; temporary, 18, 98, 108, 165–7 kitchens, Figs 9–10, Figs 12–13, terminology, Fig. 27; 17–24, 155–6 Fig. 26; 38, 44–5, 47–8, 77, 95, topography, Figs 4–7; 24–37, 42, 68–9, 103, 149; lounges, Figs 9–12, 164–5, 192 Fig. 24, Fig. 26; Pl. XII, 18–19, turnovers Graph 3; Table 5; 90, 101–2, 37–8, 43–5, 47, 103–5, 112, 123, 109, 193 151, 155, 165, 167; pantries, types, Graph 2a–b; 4, 17–24, 27, 68, Fig. 11; 43, 45, 47; toilets, 44, 47, 111, 113, 165–6, 168, 191, 195 113; windows, 47 value, Table 3; 38–42, 60, 155, 192 licences, see licence view from, Fig. 19; 169 marginalization, 169, 171 and see alehouses, bathing numbers/density, Fig. 31; Graphs establishments, beerhouses, 1a–b; Tables 1–2; 24–37, 30, 168, coffee houses, cook shops, 181, 183, 191–2, 195 drinking houses, guinguettes, opening times, 65–6, 76, 79 mead houses, inns, restaurants, premises, Fig. 16, Fig. 19, Fig. 26; 1–3, tapsters, taverns 18, 37–49, 61, 91, 95, 154–5, public sphere, 3–4, 20–1, 69, 110, 165–6, 171, 176, 192; barns, 38; 185–8, 195 block-type, 38; courtyard-type, publicans, Figs 13–14, Fig. 16, Fig. 23; 38; dance halls, 38, 123; Pl. III–IV, XII, XVIII; Table 4, Table dependences, 37; distilleries, 38; 7; 2, 36–8, 42, 44, 47, 50–62, 67–9, galleries, 38; gardens, 18, 23, 38, 71, 74, 82, 85, 87–100, 103, 113, 105, 140, 167, 188; outdoors, Fig. 119, 121, 125, 127, 130, 135, 143, 21; 23, 105, 167; service 148, 151, 155–6, 172, 175–6, 178, buildings, Fig. 26, 38; signs, Fig. 182, 186, 191–2 8, Figs 16–18 Fig. 29; Pl. IX; 18, bankruptcies, 57–8 24, 42, 60, 91, 125, 143, 161, 163; (as) brokers, 121–2, 130, 192 stables, Fig. 10, Fig. 26; 24, 34, 38, competition between, 82, 102, 158 44, 47, 112, 121, 154, 191 (and) crime, Table 7; 133–5, 137–42, prices in, Table 3; 39, 76–8, 80, 102–3, 194 105–6, 113–14, 156, 165; Pfenwert, dynasties, 61–2, 119, 178 106 elections, 54, 75–6, 82, 163, 166 280 Index publicans – continued rites of passage, 61, 65, 70–1, 108, 124, female/gender, Fig. 15, Fig. 17; Pl. IV, 126–7, 166, 175, 176; baptism, 19, XVIII; 37, 50, 55, 61–2, 70, 72, 70; churchings, 70; weddings, 19, 138, 140–1, 150, 183 70–1, 76, 83, 91 iconography, Figs 13–14; 148–50 rituals, 3, 21, 98, 110, 115, 122, 125, income, Table 5; 87–90, 101–2, 193 129, 136, 149, 151, 153, 175, 194 occupations, 57–8, 87, 107 rivers, 33 organization, 50, 82 roads, see highways, streets (as) postriders-/masters, Fig. 23; 117, Roche, Fig. 10; 44 119 Rüderswil, Pl. IX; Lion, Pl. IX; 60 representation, Fig. 23; Pl. III–IV, rumour, 127, 186; and see news XVIII; 60, 91, 149, 161 rural, see villages reputation, Fig. 15; 52, 62, 94, Russia, 80 149–50, 155, 160, 192 responsibilities, 42, 52, 55, 72, 77–9, Saanen, Fig. 3; 22 128, 137–8, 141, 167, 183, 192 Sabbath, 21, 65, 77, 81, 136, 168, 173, 182 rights, 52–5 saints, Pl. V, XVIII rotation, 54, 166 salons, 185–6, 188 self-sufficiency, 107 Sancta Clara, Abraham a, 152 social mobility, 60–1 Scandinavia, 24 status, Pl. III; 50, 55–62, 82, 138–9, scatology, 151 169, 177, 192 Schachzabelbuch, Fig. 13; 148 subtenants, Table 4; 55, 60–1 Schenke, see ale/beerhouses, taverns tenures, 53 Schibi, Christian, 140 and see public houses/dues Schleissheim, Fig. 2, 36, 108 Schmetterer, Joseph Benedikt, Fig. 14; Ramersdorf, Table 3; 9, 61, 67 58, 90 Ranflüh, 132, 140 Schmidt, Christian Gottlieb, 123 Rau, Susanne, 187 Schön, Erhard, Fig. 16, Fig. 20, Fig. 24; reconciliation, 142, 174 149 Reformation(s), 10, 25, 50, 55, 63, 81, Schongau, Star, 36 115, 124, 136, 140, 149, 152, 168, Schwabhausen, Post, Table 3; 58, 64 175, 179, 186–7, 195; and see Schwerhoff, Gerd, 187 confession Scotland, 50, 194 reformed confession, see Calvinism, Scott, J. C., 139 Zwinglianism Sensebrücke, 182; Pl. VI; Customs Regensburg, Berthold von, 81, 152 House, Pl. VII, 71 regions, 116, 156, 186–7, 195 servants, Fig. 17; 54, 67–8, 71, 105, 141; Reinach, J. W., 122 and see public houses/staff religion, Pl. XI, 42, 74–5, 78, 123, 126, service buildings, see public 131, 136, 150, 162–3, 168, 172, 174, houses/premises 176–7, 180, 186, 195; and see sexuality, 62–3, 70, 72, 95, 110, 124, Church 126, 132–3, 138, 150, 184 Renaissance, 179 shops, 98, 108, 140, 171, 195 republics, 5; and see Bern signs, see public houses/premises resistance, see subversion slander, see defamation restaurants, 1, 4, 20, 31, 99, 102, 107, snacks, see food 111, 167, 171, 188, 193, 195 sociability, Fig. 18; 1, 3, 11, 20–1, 65, revolutions, 10, 31, 129 70, 97, 99, 111, 124, 126–7, 138, Riedl, Adrian von, 117 149, 151, 158, 161–2, 168, 173, 175, Riedtwil, Angel, Fig. 18 183, 186–8, 196 Index 281 social centres, Pl. XVI, 4, 11, 85, 172–8, streets, Pl. VI, 19, 91, 167, 176, 186; 195; and see churches, markets, and see highways public houses, streets, town halls, subsistence, Ch. 3, 142, 159, 193 village halls subversion, 3, 11, 138–42, 171, 178, social construction, see public 186, 191; and see public houses houses/functions social control, 136, 141, 185, 194 surveillance, 68, 79, 133, 139–41 social discipline, 4, 63, 81, 117, 131, swearing, 72, 76, 123, 136, 138, 150, 163, 179–85, 194–5 183–4; and see blasphemy social exchange, 1, 15, 85, 97, 115–16, Swiss Confederation, Fig. 4; 5, 13, 21, 126–42, 149–50, 151, 156, 159, 23, 71, 106, 109, 113, 121–2, 125, Ch. 6, 191, 193, 196 130–1, 135, 155, 162, 164, 178, 188; social polarization, 5, 18–21, 63, 67–9, Appenzell, 30, 69, 71, 123, 188; 103 Baden, 21; Basel, 107, Three Kings, social sites, 116, 139 Fig. 19; 94, 104, 149, 169; Bergell, society, Pt. III; and see social exchange; 98, 129; Davos, 130; Engadine, 130; and see public houses/functions Fribourg, Fig. 1, Fig. 4, 69, Blue sociology, 116 Tower, 66; Geneva, 67, 74, 129, soldiers, see military affairs 180; Glarus, 122; Gotthard, 23, 67, sources, 8–10, 27, 39, 58, 64, 68–9, 87, 109; Küssnacht, Angel, 130; 90, 98, 104, 109, 112, 115, 147–61, Lucerne, Fig. 21; Table 7; 60, 82, 91, 173; and see public houses/registers 139–40, 142, Eagle, 69, Marksman, and individual genres 130; Neuchâtel, 69–70; Solothurn, space, 3, 15, 68, 78, 103, 116–17, 122, 98, Crown, 121, 129; St Gall, 124; 126, 142, 151, 154–5, 164–7, 172, Stans, Crown, Plate XVIII, 128; 180, 186–7, 189, 195–6 Sursee, Table 3, Table 5; 87, 90, 96; Spain, 100, 132, 158; Santiago de Toggenburg, 4, 68, 174; Valais, 68, Compostela, 23, 112 109; Zurich, 25, 42, 71, 107, 122, spas, see baths 125, 174, 180, Sword, 68, 95, 103, Spazier, Karl, 129, 155, 171 121, 127, 149, 169, Toddler, 68, speed, 15, 119 121; Zurzach, 34 Spiez, 9, 75, 107 Spiezwiler, Table 5; 75, 100 table d’hôte, see public houses/dining spinning bees, 116, 176 culture spirits, 20, 30, 100 Tafern, see inns stabilizing functions, see public take away, see public houses/dining houses/functions culture stage-coaches, 8, 10, 31, 94, 103, 112, tapsters, Fig. 7; Pl. III; 18, 35–6, 61, 78, 116–17, 119, 195; and see post, 100, 133, 152, 158, 181 travellers taste, 19, 109 Stans, Pl. XVIII; Crown, Pl. XVIII Taverne, see inns state, 55, 74, 131, 193; police state, 8, taverns, Fig. 5, Fig. 9, Fig. 17, Fig. 25, 25, 65, 75, 77–8, 94, 127, 163, 179; Fig. 28; Graphs 1a, 2b; Pl. V, Pl. state building/formation, 4, 8, 10, X–XI; Table 5; 1, 9, 17–18, 24, 26–7, 25, 145, 163, 178–85, 195; state 29–30, 32, 37, 43, 53, 60, 67–9, 75, finance, 9, 79–81, 163, 193 87, 98, 103–4, 107, 109, 111, 123–4, Steen, Jan, Pl. XIV; 149 127, 130, 133, 139–40, 149, 152, Steinbrenner, Wilhelm, 169 161, 168, 171, 173–6, 180, 187–8, strangers, 2, 67–8, 124, 126, 128, 133, 195; clerical, 54; and see public 156, 158 houses Straubing, 7 Taxa, Fig. 2; 152 282 Index taxation, 9, 42, 52, 58, 100–1, 111, Uffelmann, Abraham, 108; Margaritha, 158, 165, 179–80, 184, 192–3; 62 exise / indirect, Graph 3; Pl. VIII, 9, Unterfinning, Table 5; 58, 64–5, 90 64, 75, 77, 79–80, 87, 90, 147 Unterseen, 21, 177 Taylor, John, 9, 117, 160–1, 195 urban, see towns tea, 100, 169, 188 urbanization, 19, 103, 111, 131, 149, 165 Teniers, David II, Pl. V; 10, 149 Ursenbach, 54, Lion, 178 territorialization, see state theatres, 70, 124–5, 171, 195; and see variables, variety, 2, 17, 24, 30–1, 37, public houses/entertainment 39, 42, 50, 55, 64, 70, 74, 82, 87, theory, 3, 11, Ch. 5; and see 100, 103, 106, 113, 126, 141–2, 156, historiography 160, 162–71, 176, 177, 185, 191, Thirty Years’ War, Fig. 25; 7, 18, 30, 80, 196 102, 128, 164 Vaud, Pays de, Fig. 1, Figs 3–4, Fig. 22; Thun, Fig. 4; 53, 55, 64, 77, 95, 122; Pl. VII, 4–5, 7, 18, 30, 53–4, 64, 67, Bear, Table 3; Freienhof, 38, 122 75, 77, 100, 128, 130, 133, 148, 183 Tlusty, B. Ann, 3, 70, 126 Vechigen, Table 7; 136 tobacco, 123, 193 Vevey, 42 topography, 15; and see public houses Viertl, Johann Stephan, Pl. IV; Maria tourism, Pl. X, 1–2, 23, 38, 68, 94, 121, Theresia, Pl. IV; 62 166, 169 village halls, Fig. 3; 21–2, 80, 130, 162, town halls, Fig. 31; Pl. XVI; 1, 21, 36–7, 172 62, 80, 128, 130, 145, 177–8, 195 villages, Pl. V–VI, XIV–XV, XVII, XIX, 5, town plan(ner)s, 10, 148, 153–4, 194 31–3, 37, 39, 55, 58, 67–8, 70, 75, towns, Pl. XVI, 2–3, 5, 8, 19–21, 24, 30, 82, 97–8, 104, 123, 128, 142, 158, 32–4, 37, 39, 53, 55, 58, 68, 70, 72, 162–3, 166, 172, 192, 195; and see 76–8, 90, 97–8, 158, 162–3, 165, agriculture, peasants 168, 172, 180, 183, 192, 195; gates, vintners, vintries, 18, 25, 27, 53–4, 150, 24; walls, 34; and see burghers 164, 181, 193 trade, Fig. 22; 2, 30, 37, 52–3, 57–8, 65, violence, Fig. 25; Pl. XIX; 3, 9–10, 68, 87, 97–8, 126, 147–8, 156, 158, 125–6, 130, 135–42, 149, 156, 177–8, 184; and see markets 179–80, 183, 186, 194 tradition, 2 visitations, 64, 69, 142 transport, Fig. 23; 117; and see carriers, visual sources, 3, 10, 149 stage-coaches Traunstein, 58, 138 wages, Table 3; 39 travel guides, 10, 94, 97, 107, 110, 117, Waldheim, Hans von, 66, 121 155 Ward, Ned, 151 travel reports, 3, 9, 50, 64, 94, 104, 110, water, 65 155, 160 weddings, see rites of passage travellers, Fig. 16, Fig. 18, Fig. 22; Pl. VI, Weinkauf, 65, 97–8 15, 19, 23, 31–2, 36, 47, 52, 54, 65, Weiß, family of, 119 67–8, 71, 77, 79, 87, 91, 100, 104, Weissenburg, 94 111, 119, 133, 156, 163, 165–6; wheat/white beer, Fig. 7; Pl. III; 18, 61, and see pedestrians, post, 65, 78, 100, 184 stage-coaches Willebrand, Johann Peter, 153–4 Tschudi, Johann Heinrich, 143, 159–60 wine, Fig. 13, Fig. 18, Figs 21–2, Turner, Thomas, 109, 114 Figs 30–1; Graph 3; Pl. VII–VIII, Pl. X–XI, XVII; 1, 7, 9, 17–20, 24, Übersax, Fig. 23; Samuel and Barbara, 27, 29, 39, 45, 47–8, 53–4, 64–6, 71, 119 76–8, 80, 87, 90, 95, 97, 100–3, 105, Index 283

108, 114, 119, 124–5, 136, 138, Worb, Tables 6–7; 55–7, 76, 90, 106, 149–50, 153, 158, 160, 164, 175, 175; Lion, Tables 3–5; 55, 76, 78–9, 181, 184, 187, 193 95, 100, 128, 141 Wirt, see publicans Wynne, family, 124 Wirtshaus, see public houses Wittelsbach, 8 Yänn, Felix and Madalena, Pl. XVIII women, Pl. IV, VII, X, XII–XIV, 20–1, 61, 63–4, 67, 70–4, 99; widows, Zoﬁngen, 30, 60, 75 Pl. IV; 55, 61; and see Zwinglianism, Pl. VI, 5, 25, 65, 123, 163, patrons/female, publicans/female 168, 173–4