Notes Introduction 1. Burke, Volkskultur, 121. 2. Erasmus, ‘Diversoria’, 371, 374. 3. Earle, Micro-Cosmographie, 33. 4. Spang, Restaurant, and Habermas, Public Sphere, 30. 5. For commercial catering in Antiquity, see Firebaugh, Hospitality; Andrews, ‘Pompeii’; Ellis, ‘Outlets’. 6. Kerntke, Taverne, 36. 7. Peyer, Gastlichkeit, 281. This is the standard work on the origins and medieval development of the trade. 8. 1990 edn, 92. Publicans are ‘apt to swallow any extravagant story’ about the origins or historical role of their premises (Johnson, ‘Sources’, 21), so that ‘more nonsense is talked about the history of inns and public houses than about that of any other establishment’ (Moody, Burford, pt 1, 3). For a critical look at some old English pub genealogies, see the section on ‘Great Pub Myths’ in Brandwood et al., Licensed. 9. Hunter, George Inn (looked after by the National Trust). The Elephant at Bressanone (South Tyrol), where Emperor Maximilian stayed with an Indian ele- phant in 1550, features historical information on murals, in brochures, websites and a house museum: http://www.hotelelephant.com/ (consulted 4 November 2006). The innkeeping dynasty even produced its own historian, Hans Heiss. 10. Liebenau, Wirtshauswesen; Potthoff and Kossenhaschen, Kulturgeschichte; Rauers, Kulturgeschichte; Richardson, Inns. This tradition persists in works like Benker, Gasthof; Haydon, Pub; and May and Schilz, eds, Gasthäuser. 11. On legislation: Kachel, Herberge (and more recently: Mooseder and Laturell, ‘Tafernwirtschaften’ and Hunter, ‘Legislative framework’); Pantin, ‘Inns’ (archi- tecture); Larwood and Hotten, Signs. 12. Peyer, Gastlichkeit, and his edited collection Gasthaus; Clark, Alehouse. 13. Tlusty, Bacchus. 14. Brennan, Drinking; Martin, Alcohol; Kaiser and Kaiser-Guyot, Gewalt; Beneder, Gasthaus. 15. Ma˛czak, Travel; Gräf and Pröve, Reisen; Behringer, Kommunikationsrevolution. 16. Teuteberg, ‘Kulturgeschichte’. See also the volumes of the ‘International Com- mission for Research into European Food History’, most recently Jacobs and Scholliers, eds, Eating Out. 17. Hirschfelder, Alkoholkonsum; Smyth, ed., Conviviality. 18. Stewart, ‘Taverns’. 19. Mennell et al., Food; Hürlimann, Soziabilität; Freist, Communication; Scott, Resistance. 20. Hanawalt, ‘Space’; Rau and Schwerhoff, eds, Öffentliche Räume; Dürr and Schwerhoff, eds, Tavernen; Schofield, ‘Houses’; Tlusty, ‘Privat’; Brown, ‘Public houses’. 21. Boos, ed., Wirtshauskultur; Frieser, Wirtshäuser. 22. Jenisch, ‘Gasthaus’, 277. 197 198 Notes 23. Rageth-Fritz, Falken; Heiss, Weg; Munby, ‘Oxford inn’. 24. Everitt, ‘Inn’; Spang, Restaurant. 25. Cherubini, ‘Taverna’; Muchembled, Violence, 200–21; Brändle, ‘Wirtshäuser’, Linde, ‘Krüge’; Radeff, ‘Auberges’; Moody, Burford. 26. Khan, ‘Karawansarays’; Thompson, Tavern-Going; Salinger, Drinking. 27. Kümin and Tlusty, eds, Tavern; Hirschfelder, Alkoholkonsum, offers a comparison of two cities in the early industrial age; ‘There is room for a major book on alcohol consumption in this period’: Sharpe, ‘Smashed’, 24. 28. Muchembled, Elite Culture; Beneder, Gasthaus. 29. Cameron, ed., Europe, esp. chs 1, 4. 30. Pfister and Egli, eds, Atlas, 34. 31. The extensive older literature on Bernese history is being superseded by a series of new chronological surveys: see Beer et al., eds, Grosse Zeit, and Holenstein, ed., Mächtige Zeit. 32. An eighteenth-century description of the district appears in Holzer, Laupen. 33. For general introductions to early modern Bavaria, see Schuck, ‘Bayern’, and Rankl, Landvolk, ‘Conclusion’. 34. Hoffmann, Städte. 35. Detailed information in Fried, Dachau, and the multi-volume series Kultur- geschichte des Dachauer Landes. For population figures, see Scheidl, ‘Bevölkerungs- entwicklung’. 36. A late eighteenth-century observer emphasized the constant traffic of strangers passing through the town: Westenrieder, ‘Dachau’, 271. 37. Other communities with good record survival, such as Münsingen and Worb (in Bern) and Perlach (Bavaria), will also receive particular attention. 38. A recent survey on beer and brewing in pre-industrial Europe similarly found ‘a surprisingly large body of information’: Unger, Beer, 7. 39. BayHStA, StV 1853 (1580) and GR 878/186 (1806); StAB, B V 142–148 (1628, 1688, 1743, 1789; some with associated material). For comparable surveys in England, cf. Chartres, ‘Age’, 208 and passim. 40. Rechtsquellen Bern, esp. pt 1, vol. 8/1, 198–255; Schilling et al., eds, Policey- ordnungen. For archival collections, see BayHStA, Mandatensammlung, and StAB, A I 479–, Mandatenbücher. The reference to public houses in 1244 in Weiland, ed., Constitutiones, 575. On the relationship between police state and local society, see most recently Blickle, ed., Policey, and Holenstein, Gute Policey. 41. Müller-Wirthmann, ‘Raufhändel’; Tlusty, ‘Violence’; and most recently the essay collection Eriksson and Krug-Richter, eds, Streitkulturen. 42. GANC, vol. 1–3 (1650–); SAD, Amtliche Bestände, RPr (1637–). 43. Dramatically evident at Augsburg during the Thirty Years’ War: Tlusty, Bacchus, 176–9. In Bavaria, alcoholic beverages were subject to both Umgeld and Aufschlag (BayHStA, Kurbayern Geheimes Landesarchiv, Nr. 1344, f. 663 [1612]), while Bern collected only the former (StAB, B VIII: Zoll und Ohmgeld). 44. The records of the lordship of Spiez have been deposited in StAB, HA Spiez [Depot Haller]; materials for Perlach and Ramersdorf survive in StAM, Hofkastenamt München. A similar body of documentation is analysed in Müller, ‘Nobility’. 45. Used e.g. in Rageth-Fritz, Falken, appendices 4.9–10 (Falcon, Bern); Heiss, Weg, 25, 36 (Elephant, Bressanone, South Tyrol); and Pennington, ‘Inns’, 121–7 (Spread Eagle, Midhurst, Sussex). 46. Extensive local fact-finding preceded the two Bernese registers of 1628 and 1789. The reports and documentation submitted by officials in 1626 and 1786 survive Notes 199 in StAB, B V 141/147. An extraordinarily detailed account book, kept by the publican Hans von Herblingen of Thun around 1400, informs Bartlome, Rechnungsbücher. 47. Taylor, Works; for a survey of German literary approaches, see Kaemena, Literatur. 48. Kaisersberg, ‘Gluttony’; Luther, ‘Moderation’; Guarinonius, Verwüstung (quote). 49. Detailed surveys and extracts for Bern in Beer, Travellers; and for Bavaria in Dussler, ed., Reisen; for the state of research and methodical problems, see e.g. Maurer, ed., Reiseforschung. 50. Among the most seminal works with information on public houses were Zeiller, Itinerarium (published as early as 1632) and Ebel, Anleitung, a popular guide for early ‘tourists’ in Switzerland around 1800; for a discussion of early modern travel aids, see Behringer, Kommunikationsrevolution, 485–512 and passim. 51. Iconography from such works informs the description of Artois taverns in Muchembled, Violence, 201–2. For sixteenth-century representations, see e.g. Geisberg, ed., Woodcut, vol. 2, 132 (Barthel Beham, ‘Country Fair’, 1534). 52. Zeiller, Topographia Helvetiae and Topographia Bavariae. 53. Blickle, Kommunalismus, vol. 2, 359. Part I 1. Meiners, Briefe, pt 1, 101. 2. Löw, Raumsoziologie, esp. 271–3. On the social construction of reality and the creation of meaning as a social process: Berger and Luckmann, Knowledge, esp. 151. Chapter 1 Settings 1. ‘The public house as such does not exist’: Hauser, ‘Wirtshaus’, 209. 2. Early modern travellers were aware of these differences: Moryson, Itinerary, iii. 85. Regional analyses in Kachel, Herberge, 167–90, and Hirschfelder, Alkoholkonsum, vol. 2, 25–31; on wine-growing areas, see Scott, ‘Viticulture’. A minor Bavarian speciality was Met or mead, a kind of honey-wine available from waxmakers: Hanke, ‘Lebzelter’. 3. On climate change and other reasons for the rise of beer in Bavaria, see Behringer, Spaten-Brauerei, 25–88; Tlusty, ‘Brandy and gin’. 4. StAB, B V 142, p. 43 (1628); B V 147, p. 11 (1786). 5. With regard to establishments at Puch, Emering and Olching in 1580: BayHStA, StV 1853, f. 81v. 6. SAD, RPr, 13.11.1642; 29.7.1648; 13.11.1650, etc. Similarly, in rural Zurich, keepers of vineyards were allowed to sell wine to customers in the street, but not for consumption on the premises: Escher, ed., ‘Wirtshäuser’, 239. 7. Heiss, Weg, 14–15. Yet other types of taverns had seasonal concessions, e.g. at Lécherette (Bernese Vaud) for the peak summer travel season (StAB, B V 144, p. 100), or permissions to follow demand, as the mobile wine sellers who attended the various feast days in Piedmontese communities (Cherubini, ‘Taverna’, 217). 8. Behringer, Spaten-Brauerei, 38 (Munich); Böhne, ‘Brauereien’, 103 (Bruck); Hanke, ‘Zieglerbräu’, 145 (Dachau); Dirlmeier, ‘Brauwesen’; BayHStA, StV 1853, f. 124r (Monastery of Seemanshausen). The former monastery of Weihenstephan near Freising, which obtained brewing rights in 1040, has a 200 Notes good claim to the coveted title of the oldest operational brewery in the world (www.brauerei-weihenstephan.de). Bavaria did not follow the northern European trend to separate brewing and retailing in the sixteenth century: Unger, Beer, 218. 9. BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 435 (Mühldorf), 605 (Viechtach, both 1806). 10. StAB, B V 147, p. 1260. 11. Council decree of 14 May 1776 recorded in StAB, B V 142, pp. 73–4. For the ‘rooted’ character of inns, cf. Heiss, ‘Gastwirtinnen’, 53 (Tyrol), and Frieser, Wirtshäuser, 70–1 (Nuremberg). 12. This was an explicit condition of the fief (feudal tenure): StAB, B V 144, pp. 44–5 (1743). 13. BayHStA, GR 878/186, p. 77. The local monopoly of inns appears already in the Bavarian Landfrieden (Public