Magruder Road Corridor

United States Department of Agriculture

Forest Service NEZ PERCE-CLEARWATER & BITTERROOT FORESTS Magruder Road Corridor

Vista at Green Mountain Lookout

A guide to the historic Magruder Road To Hamilton 9595 The Magruder Montana IDAHO Road Corridor MONTANA Darby

South Fork 19 Red River µ FRANK CHURCH-RIVER OF NO RETURN 222 WILDERNESS Dixie

Page 1 To Hamilton 9595 The Magruder Montana IDAHO Road Corridor MONTANA Darby

12 93 To Lost Trail Pass 95 SELWAY-BITTERROOT Idaho WILDERNESS r West Fork Ranger Station 15 22 c c To Grangeville 285 3 6223 c 468 Elk City 14 c21 473 14 r µ 5 12 Red River µ c13 20 Ranger Station 4 11c 18 468C 1 2 c c c17 To Shoup, ID c 6 10 224 7 How to Use This Brochure 468 8 9 16 This brochure is designed to encourage travelers to stop and visit, or read about the South Fork 19 sites along the corridor. The numbered sites Red River µ on pages 3 through 12 correspond with this FRANK CHURCH-RIVER OF NO RETURN locator map. Pages 13 and 14 are for notes. 222 A forest visitor map is a useful tool to ac- WILDERNESS company this brochure and can be purchased Dixie at your local Forest Service office.

Page 2 Introduction The 101-mile primitive enjoy will remain intact for fu- Magruder Corridor Road winds ture generations. through a vast undeveloped area, Another safeguard is the use offering solitude and pristine of weed-seed-free-feed products. beauty as well as expansive Since 1996, all feed used on mountain views. national forest lands in Idaho and Montana must be certified weed- The landscape is much the seed-free. same as when the Nez Perce Remember the use of motor- Indians and other early travelers ized or mechanized equipment crossed the area. or vehicles is not permitted in a The road has changed little designated wilderness. since its construction by the Civilian Conservation Corps Fire on the Landscape (CCC) in the 1930s. It has also Throughout the Magruder been known as the Southern Nez Corridor you will see effects Perce Trail, Elk City to Darby of natural fire, some from very Road, Montana Road and the large fires and some from small Parker Trail. creeping fires. The larger fires occurred in 1996 in the upper Wilderness Selway drainage, in 2000 most The corridor was created in visibly through the Observation 1980Page 1when the Central Idaho Point/Salmon Mountain area, in Wilderness Act was passed, leav- 2005 in the Horse Heaven area, in ing a unique road that enables 2007 in the Magruder Mountain a traveler to drive between two area and many more smaller fires. wildernesses: the 1.2- million- In 1973, the Bitterroot Na- acre Selway-Bitterroot Wil- tional Forest began testing the derness to the north, and the Wilderness Fire Policy when a 2.3-million-acre Frank Church- lightning-caused fire was allowed River of No Return Wilderness to burn naturally in the White to the south. Cap drainage. Over 30 years of Together, they represent the successful wilderness fire man- largest unroaded block of land agement in the Selway-Bitterroot in the lower 48 states and are Wilderness followed, leading the nearly twice as large as the way for wildland fire manage- combined states of Delaware and ment. By carefully choosing Rhode Island. which fires to suppress and which To help safeguard the natural- to actively manage for resource ness of wilderness, practice benefit, managers can return “leave no trace” techniques to forests to a more natural,resilient ensure the country you came to and healthy condition. Page 3 Travel Time Fire experts and research find- Travel time varies, but it takes ings agree that fire has played a eight to ten hours to travel from cruicial role in shaping our wild- Red River to Darby without rest lands for thousands of years and stops. The average speed will be is vital for the survival of many 12-15 miles per hour. A two-day plants and animals. trip is ideal with an overnight stay at one of the dispersed or Road Conditions primitive campsite locations.

This primitive one-lane road is Take your time, absorb the sol- rough, steep and winding, with itude and enjoy the remoteness few turnouts for passing oncom- far from the hassles of crowded ing vehicles. It is suitable for highways. high clearance vehicles, pickup trucks, motorcycles and moun- Camping tain bikes. The Forest Service When camping at primitive does not recommend towing locations, please follow these trailers because there are several guidelines: hairpin turns along the route. • Choose a site 200 feet from Motor homes with low clearance trails and water. should not travel the road. • Use existing fire grates and Snow begins to fall in early Oc- fire rings when building camp- tober and persists into July; how- fires. ever, snowstorms are possible at • When going to the bathroom, any time. Four-wheel-drive is do as a cat: dig a hole and recommended when the road is bury human waste. Maintain a snow covered or muddy. distance of 200 feet from water and trails. Remember you are traveling • Make sure your campfire is through an extensive undevel- dead out when you leave. oped area with no services for 117 miles. Be sure you start • Pack out all trash, both yours with a vehicle in good operat- and that of others. ing condition, a full tank of gas • Leave no trace of your stay. and a spare tire. At all times be alert for other traffic, washouts, Drinking Water fallen trees and other debris on Water from springs, lakes, the road. ponds and streams should not be The road is becoming more consumed without proper treat- popular for ATV travel during ment (boiling for more than five the summer months and can minutes or using a water filter) be very busy during the Idaho as giardia could be present. It is hunting season (mid-September a good idea to carry extra water. through mid-November). Page 4 Red River Ranger Station to Granite Springs Elk City Ranger Station #2 - Granite Springs Campground Visitors are encouraged to Granite Springs Campground stop at the Elk City Ranger Sta- lies on both sides of the road. It tion on the Red River Ranger has drinking water, pit toilets, District in Elk City and ask picnic tables, stock facilities and questions about maps, road con- water for stock. ditions, weather and any other The Southern Nez Perce concerns. After office hours, Trail parallels a portion of the visitors can obtain limited Magruder Corridor Road. The information at an interpretive Nez Perce Indians found a practi- sign at the old Red River Rang- cal hunting/gathering route that er Station (now closed) that followed the South Fork of the briefly describes the southern Clearwater River to the rolling Nez Perce Trail. It is located country and lush meadows near just south of the ranger station Elk City and the upper Red River along with an RV dump station. drainage. The trail went south Magruder Road #468 begins on of the extremely difficult terrain the left side of Road #222. The of the Selway-Bitterroot Wilder- first eight miles are a steady ness, and also avoided the more climb. Oregon Butte Lookout rugged portion of the deep, nar- and Buffalo Hump are visible to row Salmon River canyon. the west. #1 - Mountain Meadows The headwaters of Meadow Creek lie directly north of the road. Visitors will find the Mountain Meadows campsite in this vicinity. At 14-Mile Tree, the trailhead begins for Trails 501 and 580, which lead into the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness. There is an information board, registration box and toilet. Stock facilities in- Green Mountain Lookout clude a feeding rack and hitch- ing rails.

Page 5 Elk Mountain Road to Burnt Knob Lookout #3 - Elk Mountain Road #285 There are many smaller mam- The road continues to climb mals, such as badger, wolverine, from the Granite Springs pine marten, mink and weasels, Campground. Elk Mountain but count yourself lucky if you Road #285 branches to the see one. northeast, a driveable 4-miles to However, you’ll see ground the Green Mountain Lookout, squirrels, golden-mantle squir- with views of the Red River rels, red squirrels and two kinds drainage. From the #285 junc- of chipmunks. You can dif- tion, the Magruder Road winds ferentiate between chipmunks steeply down into Bargamin and golden-mantle squirrels, as Creek. Drive slowly and watch the chipmunk’s white stripes for brakes heating up. extend onto its head. Be alert while traveling to increase your #4 - Poet Creek Campground chances of seeing wildlife. Poet Creek Campground lies north of the Magruder Road. It has four camping units with tables, fireplaces, parking spurs, and pit toilets. There is no de- veloped water source. Because stock is not permitted in the campground, four mangers are located south of the road. Here in the Magruder Cor- ridor and adjacent wildernesses, diverse plant communities fill habitat needs for a variety of mammals, birds, reptiles and #5 - Burnt Knob Lookout Road amphibians. Large mammals include black From Poet Creek Camp- bear, sheep, goats and four deer ground, the road climbs steeply family members - whitetail for eight miles with a few sharp and mule deer, elk and moose. curves. Burnt Knob #468- Deer are the most commonly C branches off to the north. seen animals. This road is recommended for Wolves were introduced into 4-wheel-drive only and ends at Idaho in 1995 and may be seen the historic Burnt Knob Look- or heard throughout the corri- out. Three Prong Trail #539, dor. This is also mountain lion which starts in the saddle below territory and they could possi- the lookout, accesses McArthur, bly be sighted. Stillman and Burnt Knob lakes. Page 6 Dry Saddle Trailhead to Horse Heaven Saddle #6 - Dry Saddle Trailhead #8 - Horse Heaven Saddle Dry Saddle Trailhead lies Horse Heaven is named for its both north and south of the road lush grazing grasses. Elevation and has pit toilets, a loading at the saddle is 7070 feet. ramp and graveled parking Horse Heaven Cabin was built area. Elevation at the trailhead in 1939 at a CCC Camp near is 7920 feet. It provides access Darby, MT. It was then dissas- to many high mountain lakes sembled and transported more along Sheep Hill Trail #575. It than 60 miles west where it is a ten-mile hike to Sheep Hill once functioned as a firefighter's fire lookout tower. cabin. #7 - Sabe Vista The cabin is south of the road From Dry Saddle, the rough on the spur road marked for and winding road drops down Trail #028. The one-room log to Sabe Saddle and then climbs cabin is on the Forest Service back up again to Sabe Vista, cabin rental program and will which offers many scenic accommodate four people. views. Elevation is 7490 feet Reservations are made through at the vista. This portion of the Recreation.gov. Information road is very narrow and some- is available at the West Fork times very steep. There are few Ranger Station. places to pass another vehicle. A large burn, which was part of the Ladder Creek Fire complex, is visible at Sabe Vista. In 1988, three lightning strikes started three different fires, which eventually merged into one fire. Nearly 70,000 acres were burned in three Na- tional Forests (Nez Perce, Bitterroot and Payette). Fire is a natural force which rejuvenates the envi- Horse Heaven Cabin ronment.

Page 7 Salmon Mountain Area to Observation Point #9 - Salmon Mountain Area The Old Salmon Mountain Ranger Station site was established in 1911. Nearby is the Salmon Mountain base camp, a very popular trailhead during hunting season. It has stock facilities. A one-mile trail leads to the Salmon Mountain lookout tower which is staffed by vol- unteers during fire season. The elevation is 8944 feet. Moun- tain goats are often seen on the rocky crags and talus slopes of Salmon Mountain. This area is one of the few places in America where you can see the subalpine larch. Fireweed is abundant on the The larch is the only deciduous landscape after a wildfire coniferous tree, meaning that its needles turn yellow and drop off in the fall. Near the peak of the mountain "Ribbon forests" are visible are “banner” or “flag” trees and on the slopes in this area. These stunted trees called “krumm- are elongated narrow forest holz,” which are often hundreds strips growing perpendicular to of years old and only two feet prevailing wind directions and high. alternating with narrow bands #10 - Observation Point of moist-wet subalpine mead- Observation Point Camp- ows called “snow glades.” ground has nice camping spots Also, you can find good and toilets. The elevation is 7620 examples of “ghost” trees on feet and visitors can view the the mountain. These whitebark southern portion of the Bitterroot pines were killed by a combi- Mountain Range, especially El nation of mountain pine beetle Capitan. The point also offers and blister rust attacks. They breathtaking vistas of subalpine/ became bleached from the sum- alpine wilderness. mer sun, giving them a ghost- white appearance.

Page 8 Magruder Crossing #11 - Magruder Crossing Bridge A few days later, the travelers The only place in the upper attacked, murdered and robbed Selway drainage you can drive Magruder and his companions in across the Selway River is at the dark of the night. Magruder crossing. This steel pony-truss bridge was built by The murderers rolled the dead CCCs in 1935. man over a cliff, burned and The campground has picnic buried the remaining evidence tables, a toilet, stock facilities of their crime and fled to San and water for stock. Francisco with their stolen boo- ty. Hill Beachey, Magruder’s #12 - Magruder Massacre Site friend, pursued the murderers Gold was discovered near Elk and brought them back to stand City, Idaho, in 1861 and near trial in Lewiston, Idaho. Bannack, Montana, in 1862. Many miners and traders used Three of the men were found the Southern Nez Perce Trail guilty and were hung on the 4th as the most direct route from of March, 1864. Elk City, Idaho, to Bannack or Lloyd Magruder had been a Virginia City, Montana. successful California merchant. In 1863 Lloyd Magruder and He was a well respected man companions were returning and had many friends. Prior to along this route from Virginia his ill-fated trip, he had agreed to City after making a handsome represent the Idaho Territory in profit of gold dust from selling Congress. supplies to miners. Four other As a result of this event, many travelers joined the Magruder places bear the name “Magrud- group. er,” among them the road on which you are traveling.

Page 9 Paradise Road to Paradise Paradise Road #6223 Travelers on this narrow in the Selway River. Chinook one-lane road will enjoy a salmon are found throughout pleasant 12-mile drive along the Selway River, however, the Wild and Scenic Selway they are usually seen during River. The river flows through peak spawning activity in late a deep, beautiful canyon with August and early September. some stands of western red cedar along its banks. There #15 - Paradise is a pack bridge for the trail to The elevation at Paradise is Spot Mountain Lookout. Three 3067 feet. A launch site for campgrounds are available river rafting is located near the along the road: Raven Creek, end of Paradise Road. Permits Indian Creek and Paradise. The are required from May 15 to road ends at Paradise Camp- July 31 to float the 47-mile sec- ground. tion of the Selway River from #13 - Raven Creek Campground Paradise to Selway Falls. Infor- mation can be obtained from the Raven Creek is a primitive West Fork Ranger Station. campgground with two sites and a pit toilet right along the road. Paradise Campground is 1/4 mile up White Cap Creek road. #14 - Indian Creek Hatchery The campground has eleven The Indian Creek hatching sites, with toilets, picnic tables, channel was constructed in stock facilities and meat racks. 1964 so that spring chinook This is a very heavily used trail- salmon eggs could be planted head during hunting season. in the Selway River drainage. A Forest Service administra- Fish had been unable to reach tive site is adjacent to the Para- the Selway since the construc- dise Campground with a cabin, tion of the Lewiston Dam in barn and corrals. 1929. A total of approximately two million eggs were planted each year form 1965 to 1981 and again in 1985. In the spring the emerging fry were trapped and distributed in the upper Selway by vehicle, stock and aircraft. This supplemented the naturally spawning chinook salmon Rafters at Paradise Page 10 MagruderRanger Station toMagruder Hells Half Ranger Acre Station to Hells Half Acre #16 -Magruder Ranger Station employee. The CCC constructed The Magruder Ranger Station the barn, corral and woodshed. is located 1/2 mile from Road The station is eligible for #468. The elevation is 4100 nomination to the National Register of Historic Places. The structures are excel- lent examples of rustic log construction and interior craftsmanship. The Ranger's House is on the Forest Service cabin rental program. More information about the house can be obtained from the West Fork Ranger Station, with reservations being made through www.recreation.gov. Deep Creek Bridge feet. Potable water is avail- The Deep Creek bridge able here, but no other services is a beautiful example of arched are available at the unstaffed native cut-stone construction. It remote station. Feel free to take was built by Lithuanian stone photos and imagine yourself masons who were assisted by living at this beautiful remote CCC enrollees in the 1930’s. location, but leave everything as you find it. #17 - Deep Creek Campground After the widespread for- The campground has three est fires of 1910 and 1919, the sites with picnic tables, toilets Forest Service built many low- and stock facilities. standard roads into the area. The road along Deep Creek was #18 - CCC Camp first surveyed in 1919-1920 and This was a spike camp used by the road was constructed to the the CCC enrollees during con- newly established tent camp struction of the road. The stone known as Deep Creek Ranger water fountain, an incinerator Station. The name was later and several rock foundations, changed to Magruder. remnants of the camp, are still The CCC improved the origi- visible along both sides of Deep Creek. nal road in 1936 and finished constructing a one-lane road from the station to Elk City. #19 - Hells Half Acre Rd.#224 The office and residence and The road to Hells Half Acre ranger's house were built by Ole Lookout is 11 miles long and ex- Tangen, a Forest Service tremely steep, narrow and rocky. Page 11 Nez Perce Pass to West Fork Ranger Station #21 - Fales Flat Campground This campground is named for Wesley Fales, a trapper, woodsman and early Forest Service employee, who located a homestead on the flat around 1914. He built a cabin there which burned about 1940. Since he did not complete the patent process on his homestead, the entry was cancelled in Water Fountain June, 1929. Fales Flat was also during fire season. The West the site of a CCC camp in 1933. Fork and Red River Districts can #22-Little West Fk. Campground contact the tower by radio for The elevation is 4580 feet. permission to visit. Segments of the original CCC road are often visible about 25 Paved Road feet north of the present day Before the 1980 Central Idaho road. Remnants of the historic Wilderness Act was passed, bridges are visible at Watchtow- some of the area was prepared er Creek and Little West Fork for timber sales. This 14-mile Creek. In the winter, this is a section of the road was paved parking lot for snowmobilers. in the 1970’s in anticipation of those sales. If you are hiking in West Fork Ranger Station the area, you may notice trees Visitors are encouraged to marked for cutting. Timber har- stop and ask questions about vest is not allowed in designated maps, road conditions, weather wilderness areas. and any other concerns. After office hours, a map is available #20 - Nez Perce Pass outside the office. The elevation at Nez Perce Pass is 6598 feet. An information board at the pass interprets the history of the area and provides visitors with general information about this spectacu- lar area. There is a large parking area, toilet and stock facilities. A helicopter landing site is located at the pass. Please not park on the landing zone. Castle Rock loated east of Nez Perce Pass Page 12 . Travel Notes

Page 13 Travel Notes

Page 14 For More Information

Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forests 903 3rd Street Kamiah, ID 83536 (208) 935-2513 Website: www.fs.usda.gov/nezperceclearwater

Red River Ranger District Elk City Ranger Station 300 American River Road Elk City, ID 83525 (208) 842-2245

Bitterroot National Forest 1801 North 1st Street Hamilton, MT 59840 (406) 363-7100 Website: www.fs.usda.gov/bitterroot

USDA is an equal opportu- West Fork Ranger District nity provider and em- ployer. To file a complaint 6735 West Fork Road of discrimination, write: Darby, MT 59829 USDA, Office of the As- sistant Secretary for Civil Rights, Office of Adjudica- tion, 1400 Independence Ave., SW, Washington, DC 20250-9410 or call (866) 632-9992 (Toll-free Customer Service), (800) 877-8339 (Local or Federal relay), (866) 377-8642 (Re- lay voice users).

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