ike many of our brilliant ideas, Unknown to many, the two wilder- knobby cross tires, both as bombproof as the plan to ride through the ness areas aren’t exactly contiguous. Our we could find, which turned out to be one Magruder Corridor was born in a destination, a 100-mile rocky, hilly, dusty of our best moves. We also took an extra taproom after a couple of micro- jeep road called the Magruder Corridor, bike, a mountain bike, in case of a major brews.L We should know better, eh? separates them. mechanical breakdown. Could we, a gaggle of 60-somethings The Nez Perce traveled this route, long Although we were mostly interested in who used to be fit and fast, do it on before the Civilian Conservation Corps the wilderness-lined corridor, we decided our cross bikes? We agreed to do a little gouged the road out of the great wilderness to expand the trip into a cycling vacation, research and then decide. in the 1930s, and Congress officially desig- a six-day, 352-mile loop starting and end- Even though, of course, we’d already nated the two massive wilderness areas in ing at Lolo, Montana. That’s about 60 miles decided. 1964 and 1980. per day, normally about right for us, but it To our surprise, we couldn’t find much The corridor gets its name from Lloyd turned out to be a bit “ambitious,” as the online, only a few blogs about four-wheeling lady said. We underestimated how long it the remote roadway. We regularly rode our would take to cover some of those miles. cross bikes on jeep roads, so, we surmised, if So, going in, the bottom line was: We guys in four-wheel-drive pickups could do hadn’t been over the road before, nor did it, we could, too. Seems logical, right? we have any idea what to expect around the We made a lot of calls but still couldn’t next bend. How could that be a problem? find much information. Instead of dissuad- The first leg of our big loop on U.S. ing us, the mystery only energized us. How Highway 12 west from Lolo, along Lolo could there be so little information on bicy- Creek in the shadow of Lolo Peak, past Lolo cling the famous Magruder Corridor? Hot Springs and up to Lolo Pass, was just Because, we concluded, not many peo- plain old scenic road touring. The highway ple had done it on bicycles and far fewer was in great shape but offered little shoul- on cross bikes. We didn’t ask why. We just der. Traffic was fairly heavy for the first 32 started preparing for the trip and gathering Magruder, a well-respected merchant who miles to Lolo Pass, but not bad after that, our own information. was in line to represent the Idaho Territory and we sailed through it on our road wheels. I distinctly remember my first conversa- in Congress until a fateful day in 1863. On We had lunch at Lolo Hot Springs tion with the lady answering the phone at the his way to Elk City, Idaho, from Bannack, and took a long break on Lolo Pass to local ranger station. While requesting what- Montana, with saddlebags of gold, outlaws visit the information-packed visitor cen- ever information she had on the Magruder robbed and killed him and his companions ter staffed with friendly interpreters who Corridor (which wasn’t much), I asked if she and were later hanged for it. The site of the could answer almost any question on the had anything on bicycling the corridor. After attack, now called the Magruder Massacre, area or its history. The day we were on a long pause, she said, diplomatically, “Well, can be reached by hiking trails from trail- the pass, the Traveler’s Rest Preservation that sounds mighty ambitious.” heads in the corridor. and Heritage Association had an authentic I had the feeling it was the first time After one of the original group had to drop Lewis and Clark camp set up, so we had to she’d ever fielded that question, but as it out because of a family emergency, we ended check that out, too. turned out, she was right — almost. It was up with three riders: Wayne Chamberlin, From the pass, it was 78 miles of mag- more like delightfully ambitious. Will Selser, and me, along with one token nificent downhill cruising to Lowell, Idaho, Straddling the Idaho-Montana border, young person, 46-year-old, John Andersen. aptly referred to as “the long and wind- the 1,340,587-acre Selway-Bitterroot and We weren’t self-contained types, so we ing road.” Except for the first few miles, the 2,366,827-acre Frank Church River of smooth-talked Wayne into signing on as it closely follows the spectacular Lochsa River, an wild river officially designated Riding cyclocross bikes through the under the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act of 1968. The U.S. Forest Service has also largest wilderness in the Continental U.S. designated this highway as the Northwest Crossing Magruder Passage Scenic Byway because Lewis and Clark used the route on their way to the No Return Wilderness combine to form the the designated driver of the support vehi- West Coast. We knew what to expect by Bill Schneider largest expanse of designated wilderness cle, my trusty Toyota Tacoma. He agreed to after seeing the sign at the top of the pass: in the Continental U.S., an overwhelming do most of the driving and ride short sec- Winding road, Next 99 Miles. 3,707,414-acre blank spot on the map, tions along the way with John, Will, and After thoroughly enjoying a gradual about the size of Delaware and Rhode me planning to ride the entire distance. downhill cruise along the Lochsa River Island combined. My Tacoma turned out to be an excel- for 63 miles, we spent our first night at lent choice for the support vehicle. It could the Wilderness Gateway Campground, 85 make it over any road, and it had enough miles from Lolo. (Next time, we plan to It’s still wilderness. The Magruder has room (barely) for all our camping gear, stay at Lochsa Lodge, 46 miles from Lolo, changed little in the 32 years since Greg extra wheels, and more food and water and take three days to cover what we did in and June Siple and John and Donna Briggs than we needed. We each took two sets of our first two days.) Wilderness Gateway is a

g r eg s ip l e made a self-contained crossing in 1981. wheels, one with road tires and one with big, modern campground with everything the way to Elk City, the last few miles along Nuts & Bolts: Magaruder Corridor the headwaters of the American River. At Elk City, a sleepy little town with a year-round population of about 40 (but When to go: A narrow win- Support Vehicle: If you take a The rentals usually five times that in summer), we found a bar, dow starting in early to mid-July SAG vehicle, make sure it has book six months in hotel, gas station, and small mercantile. (depending on winter snowpack) four-wheel-drive with high clear- advance. The Flying Knowing this was the last remnant of civi- and ending in mid-September. ance and low-range gears. R: montanaflyingr lization we’d see for three days, we stocked Check with the Forest Service cabins.com, 406-821-4631. incredible side trip to Paradise up on ice and beer and topped off the before leaving. The Magurder Don’t forget: Extra bottles or a plus extra time for taking side Tacoma’s gas tank. Corridor can be closed on short CamelBak. You’ll need to carry Self-contained Option: trips and day hikes. From Elk City, we rode glass-smooth notice because of washouts, lots of water. And load the sup- Possible, and Adventure Cyclist pavement with almost no traffic for 18 downfall, forest fires, or early port vehicle with twice as much readers could handle it, but the 2) Camping: Spend extra time miles, once again along a stunning moun- snowstorms. Also, ask about water as you think you’ll need. road conditions require a lot planning campsites carefully and tain stream, the slow-moving Red River. the smoke; you don’t want of strength and progress can pick sites with a nearby backup At the old Red River Ranger Station (aban- smoky skies for your trip. Call Maps and brochures: be slow. Finding enough water in case that site is filled. doned long ago), the serene streamside the West Fork Ranger District, Magruder Road Corridor bro- supplies could be an issue and cycling we’d had for most of the past Bitterroot National chure published by the Bitterroot a quality water-filtration system Suggested Itinerary: three days ended. From here, we had to Forest, 406-821- and Nez Perce National Forests would be an absolute must. Day One: Lolo to Lochsa Lodge grind up another big hill (eight miles) to 3269, or the Red and the Nez Perce National or Whitehouse Campground Granite Springs. We named this ascent River Ranger Forest Map. You can down- Finding Water: The Magruder (46 miles) the “Big Sweat” because water seemed to District, load a PDF here: fs.usda.gov/ Corridor is mostly high and dry, Day Two: Lochsa Lodge/ pour out of our every pore that morning. Nez Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/ but there are a few water sourc- Whitehouse Campground to I had two bottles and a full CamelBak and Perce fsm91_055707.pdf. es as follows: Red River Ranger one of campgrounds along went through almost all of it on the way to National Station; 14-Mile Campground; Selway River (70-80 miles) Granite Springs where we could resupply na th an t a yl o r Forest, 208- Camping: The entire route Granite Springs (well about 50 Day Three: Selway River to Elk from a water source about 50 yards into the 842-2245. is lined with campsites, both yards behind stock area, pota- City Hotel. (37-47 miles). woods on the west side of the road past the developed campgrounds and a ble); Poet Creek Campground Day Four: Elk City to Poet stock-loading area. Sunburn, saddle sores, horsefly bites, where the road splits off to the left to Getting there: Fly plethora of undesignated sites (Bargamin Creek, filter or treat); Creek Campground. (50 From Granite Springs, the road slowly clogged deraillers, multiple layers of biker Paradise and to the right to Nez Perce Pass. or drive to Missoula, for those who can go without a two intermittent springs on the miles) worsens as it winds through bone-dry forest sweat. So what? Ride on. Immediately after the bridge, we ducked Montana, and then drive nine pit toilet. hill up to Dry Saddle, about a Day Five: Poet Creek for 16 miles, mostly downhill, to Bargamin After Horse Heaven Cabin, where we into the Magruder Crossing Campground. miles south on U.S. Highway 93 mile west of the Burnt Knob Campground to Magruder Creek and Poet Creek Campground, the last stayed, the road started improving ever Wayne had driven ahead and claimed one to Lolo where you’ll need to find Shuttle Services: Selway River junction; Horse Heaven Cabin Crossing Campground or 10 miles a nerve-wracking, brake-smoking, so slowly as it climbed up a six-mile grad- of its five-star campsites along the Selway. a place to leave your vehicle. Shuttles (selwayshuttles.com), All (intermittent surface spring), Magruder Station. (32-35 miles) hand-cramping descent. Part of this section ual ascent with a few steep, extra-rocky The campsite was complete with a nifty Rivers Shuttles (allriversshuttle. Observation Point; Magruder Day Six: Keep camp and goes through about three miles of recently “walkable” sections to the Salmon Lookout rock bathtub, which we all needed to wash Road conditions: The 352- com), Central Idaho Shuttles Crossing; Paradise; Magruder ride the out-and-back trip to burned forest, one of several small burns Trailhead at 8,183 feet, the highest point off three days of Magruder dust cemented mile route has all types of road (centralidahorivershuttles.com), or Station (at cabin, potable); and Paradise. (24-30 miles) along the route. Luckily, we had smokeless on the Magruder Corridor Road. We could down with hard-won sweat — which prob- conditions — smooth pavement, River Shuttles (rivershuttles.com). Deep Creek. Day Seven: Magruder Crossing skies for our trip, but the week after we have parked our bikes and hiked a mile ably caused a major fish kill downstream. long stretches of improved grav- to Flying R Guest Ranch. (43- finished, several fires flared up and covered up to Salmon Mountain Lookout, but we The entire corridor is lined with des- el roads, and rough, steep, four- Websites: fs.usda.gov/bitter Mistakes to Avoid: 46 miles) the entire area with a thick cloud of smoke. didn’t leave enough time for it. Ditto for ignated and undesignated campsites, but wheel-drive roads with some root), fs.usda.gov/clearwater, 1) Schedule a longer trip: We Day Eight: Flying R to Lolo (62 Forest fires are an annual occurrence in several other nice hikes we could have Magruder Crossing is probably the best. On rocky and sandy sections. fs.usda.gov/nezperce. did the loop in six days, which miles). Magruder country, something we need to taken along the way. top of its other amenities, it’s away from the wasn’t enough. Some sections avoid again next time by being flexible Another three miles down the road, road. Most other campsites are close to the Bicycles: A sturdy cyclocross or Cabin Rentals: To rent were very slow going and we Options: You could also start in with our departure date and staying in we stopped at the famous Observation road and not exactly private. Good thing touring bike with a triple crank or the Horse Heaven Cabin or ended up getting to camp too Darby, Hamilton, or Stevensville. touch with the Forest Service. Point with its postcard vista. Actually, it Wayne got there early because the site fills cluster with the largest gear the Magruder Station, go to recre late to enjoy it. We definitely And of course, you can opt for At Bargamin Creek, the road turns sky- isn’t what you observe from Observation up every day. derailler can handle. ation.gov or call 877-444-6777. needed another day for the the clockwise route. ward again, steep but fairly smooth for Point, but what you can’t observe. As we We’d tried to score a reservation at his- about seven miles to Dry Saddle, which looked out over the millions of acres of toric Magruder River Ranger Station (now marks the beginning of the toughest, rocki- land, we had to forget the idea America abandoned and rented out by the Forest except a shower, which we sort of needed, nine miles and then on a major gravel road of 10 percent. The road surface is what the est, dustiest section of the Magruder. We has conquered it all — no roads, buildings, Service) but we found out a bit too late that so we took a pleasurable dip in the Lochsa for another nine miles to Selway Falls and Forest Service calls “native,” which means took a good break to enjoy the panoramic cell towers, power lines, or anything else we would have had to stay up until midnight before dinner. Selway Bridge. We rode this gravel section the surface consists of whatever was there views from the saddle to prepare for it. that might make you think the landscape six months in advance to reserve it on recre- The next morning, at Lowell, we had a on our road tires with no punctures. The when they built it with no gravel added. From Dry Saddle to Horse Heaven Cabin, has changed since the day the Nez Perce ation.gov. Magruder Station rents immedi- lunch much tastier than the Hammer Gel Selway River Road has a campground every On a dry day, that’s good news, but on a about six rocky and dusty miles with some used the corridor to elude the U.S. Army ately for virtually every summer night, often and CLIF Shot Bloks we carried, and then few miles, so there’s no problem finding a rainy day, this could be an epic ascent. This sections of deep sand that make traction or Lloyd Magruder met his untimely fate. minutes after it becomes available. turned off Highway 12 onto the Selway place to camp. narrow, switchbacked road also has some difficult. We rode six days without seeing a From Observation Point, the steadily Next time (we kept using those words), River Road. We left the Lochsa behind but After crossing the bridge, we followed of the blindest corners I’ve ever seen, but cloud, but I suspect that on a wet day, this improving road dipped sharply downhill we’d spend at least two nights at Magruder actually had an upgrade in the scenery. the river for about a mile before turning fortunately, there is very little traffic. section might be close to impassable on a and stayed that way for a seemingly end- Station, Magruder Crossing, or one of the We rode along the Selway River, also an off on FR 443 to Elk City and starting a After this big climb, we had idyllic cross cross bike. It also made me think how incred- less 10-mile descent. We wished for disc other excellent campsites in the area. official wild river, on perfect pavement for grueling nine-mile climb with grades north riding, mostly downhill, for 25 miles, all ibly hard it would be to go self-contained. brakes as we rode to the Selway River While we were camped at Magruder

28 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2013 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2013 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 29 best part of the trip,” Will said. “They of space to pitch tents for larger groups who named it Paradise for a reason.” And, pre- don’t mind taking turns in the shower and dictably, the camp host greets visitors with sharing a kitchen. Maximum group size a hearty “Welcome to Paradise.” would be in the 15-20 range. The spur road closely follows the upper The Rogalas are very outdoorsy people Selway River all the way to Paradise where who like to “share what we have here with White Cap Creek joins the Selway. There, others,” Deb emphasized. “When we built the river becomes big enough to be the this place, we built it for people like us. We launching point for a wild, and ultra-pop- especially like people who like to design ular, rafting adventure through the Selway- their own outdoor experience.” Bitterroot Wilderness. I’m sure she meant people like us, baby As it turned out, John and I didn’t have boomers heading blindly off into the wilder- much cause for complaining. The unpaved ness without knowing what awaits them. road from Magruder Crossing ascends The following morning, we rolled down gradually along the Selway River, the fifth to Darby for a big breakfast at Deb’s Café. river we’d ridden along so far, and then Then we had a quick chat with the innova- goes several more miles along a smaller but tive folks at Lightfoot Cycles (see profile in no less scenic Deep Creek. the June 2012 issue of Advnture Cyclist), a After riding 10 miles, the excellent gravel small business specializing in engineering road turned into an excellent paved road recumbents and custom bicycles for people for the last eight-mile pitch up to Nez Perce with special needs, before heading north to Up the creek. A cyclist follows the Upper Selway River through the Magruder. Pass, not a bad climb compared to the three Lolo — and, of course, our route took us hills we’d just endured, but harder than the along another river, our seventh, the main Crossing, we realized one of our mistakes. Paradise and back (24 miles round trip) relatively easy trip up Lolo Pass. Perhaps stem of the Bitterroot. We hadn’t planned on an extra day for before jumping in the Tacoma to catch up the highlight of the morning was seeing a From Darby to Hamilton, U.S. Highway a side trip to Paradise. We couldn’t leave with John and me. We headed out early for SHARE THE ROAD sign along Deep Creek 93 had a good shoulder the entire way, but without seeing Paradise so we came up Nez Perce Pass and the Flying R Guest Ranch with an image of a horse instead of a bicycle, there was heavy traffic. In Hamilton, after a with an alternate plan. where we had reservations that night. just a reminder that this is horse country, as cappuccino stop, we jumped on the longest The next morning, Wayne and Will The road to Paradise, as reported sec- witnessed by the overpopulation of pesky continued on page 46 stayed behind to break camp and rode to ondhand, was fantastic. “You missed the horseflies that seem especially attracted to me. After marveling at the expansiveness of wild nature surrounding the pass and checking out the terrific interpretive dis- plays, we raced downhill into the West Fork of the Bitterroot Valley, all easy riding and paved except for one six-mile stretch of gravel with some washboarding, the bane of cross riders. John and I cranked harder than usual that day because we’d gone four nights without a shower. We’d survived with a cou- ple of icy dips in the Lochsa and Selway, but we were more than ready for a real shower. That night, we were going upscale and staying at the Flying R Guest Cabins and Lodge, owned by Deb and Mark Rogala. We could have camped at one of the camp- grounds along the West Fork but decided we deserved a little luxury on the last night of our trip. I knew we had picked the right place when I saw a rusty old Ashtabula (one- piece) crankset hanging by the front door. After taking a long shower and short nap, we headed for the main house where Deb and Mark fixed us a fabulous steak dinner. The Rogalas have owned the Flying R for 23 years, and they often cater to groups of cyclists, river rats, and other outdoor types. They have two spiffy guest cabins without TV, telephones, or wifi, and they have lots

30 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2013 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2013 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 31 continued from page 25 RIDE TWO STATES – TWO COUNTRIES — Six day, 350-mile fully-supported Rotary ride “Listen to the words. Move together. Open Road Gallery classified ads September 16-21, 2013 on the International Stay strong. Don’t ever give up.” continued Selkirk Loop, incredible Scenic Byway During the class, I share some sto- through Washington, Canada, Idaho. www. September Escapade™ TRIRI® – WaCanId.org or 1-888-823-2626. Registration ries from the road to help connect with sacrificing north dakota September 15-20, 2013. Scenic, historic tour opens Mar. 1 – limited to 100 riders. this group of 25 to 30 strangers. From of south central Indiana with inn or camping Vancouver there is Gino’s advice about dig- overnights at Indiana State Parks, two layover TIMBERLINE ADVENTURES — Fully sup- ging down to find the strength inside, and days, and ten catered meals. Contact: 812-333- ported bicycling & hiking adventure vaca- by Madeline McKiddy Photograph by Greg Siple 8176; [email protected]; or www.triri.org. tions with an organization whose sole focus Alex’s thoughts on pain versus suffering. for 31 years is extraordinary adventure At the close of class, I leave the stu- 1985 Touring Ride in Rural Indiana® throughout western U.S. & Canada. Website: dents with a parting thought or idea. I tell (TRIRI®) Bicycle Rallies — June 9-14, www.timbertours.com Email: timber@earth everyone about the epiphany that I had a 2013. Loop rides with a theme from two net.net Phone: 800-417-2453. 2012 Indiana State Parks, with camping or inn few days earlier in Monterey, California. accommodations and six catered meals. THE GREAT ALLEGHENY PASSAGE AND “I can save myself a lot of suffering Contact: 812-333-8176; [email protected]; or C&O CANAL — 334.5 continuous trail miles by not being so set in my ways — being www.triri.org. from Pittsburgh to DC; custom or group tours; flexible to change, in general — and to includes B&Bs, inns, excellent meals, luggage Great Freedom Adventures — Three shuttle, full SAG support, vehicle or people and changing my plans, more specifically.” to six day bike and multisport tours explor- gear shuttle; attractions including Frank Lloyd I end the class as I always do. I simply ing mountains, valleys, coastline and islands Wright’s Fallingwater, Antietam battlefield plus say, “Nothing without joy,” and then I of New England and NY. Unsurpassed cycling so much more... Call Trail Gail at 301-722-4887 quietly leave the room. through diverse regions of natural beauty, 240-727-7039 or www.mountainsidebiketours. historical significance and cultural richness. net “You Pedal, We Pamper.” * Bicycling the Pacific Coast and the Pacific www.greatfreedomadventures.com. Two-wheeled slice of the Great Coast Bicycle Route maps can be found at 22nd Annual OATBRAN — One Awesome Northwest — Plunge into our fully-sup- adventurecycling.org/store. Tour Bike Ride Across Nevada, Sept. 22-28. ported Cycle the Gorge tour! Enjoy the spec- 2013. “America’s Loneliest Bike Tour” is a tacular Gorge, three iconic mountains (Hood, St. Dan Schwartzman is a freelance journalist and fully supported motel-style tour across US Helens, and Adams), deep rain forest (in Gifford Bikram yoga teacher living in San Francisco. After Hwy 50, 420 miles, border to border, from Pinchot National Forest), and lush orchards writing for newspapers on both coasts, he founded Lake Tahoe to the Great Basin National and waterfalls load free and fully catered! June Café Abroad InPRINT (cafeabroadinprint.com). Park. Limited to 50 riders. For more info: 22-29, $1,199. For more information visit www. BiketheWest.com. adventurecycling.org/tours or call us at 800- 755-2453. continued from page 31

paved bikeway in Montana, extending 36 miles from Hamilton to Lolo. Although we were anxious to be done, we weren’t anxious enough to make it to Kym and Christine’s daughters, Wensday and Carly, and their nephew Jordan had grown up seeing the finish line without one final moment a wall of photos memorializing a cross-country journey the couple had taken in 1984 (inset photo). RIDE EAST of weakness, a brief break at Blacksmith With 8 unique trips and 3 levels of support, there’s never been a better “As our children grew and looked at those pictures every day, we would tell them stories of our Brewing in downtown Stevensville for a time to grab your bike and head east! bicycle adventure and kid them that we would be doing that same journey with them some day. The celebratory microbrew. It tasted amaz- years sped by and suddenly we realized our oldest daughter would be leaving home in two short Self-Contained: • Cape Cod Pilgrimage - Plymouth, Massachusetts. Loop I: June 15-22, ingly good and made the last 18 miles Loop II: September 7-14 Florida Keys - Ft. Lauderdale, Florida, November 9-19. years, embarking on a life of her own. We decided it was now or never,” Christine said. • seem easier than the first 18 miles. Planning a three-month bike tour becomes much more difficult when you have a house, jobs, pets, Inn-to-Inn: • Bar Harbor - Bangor, Maine, June 8-15 • Lake Champlain - Burlington, We spent our taproom break chatting Vermont, August 3-10 Vermont - Burlington, Vermont, October 5-11. and school to worry about. Training was hampered by school and social commitments. Denied their • about why the Magruder Corridor loop requests leaves of absence, both adults had to quit their jobs and hope for the best upon their return, Fully-Supported: Blue Ridge Bliss - Front Royal, Virgina, June 1-7 Freedom Flyer - was so well suited to cross bikes; how • • plus they had to be home in time for band and soccer camps. Washington, DC, June 26-July 4. the drivers of the few vehicles (jeeps and “The diminished time made for more stress and less flexibility on this trip, often making me feel like ATVs) we had met all seemed friendly and a Roman ‘coxswain,’ yelling, whipping, and pushing the group to make time, get up earlier, take shorter courteous; how lucky we had been to have adventurecycling.org/toursmag breaks, and take fewer rest days,” said Kym. As hard as they tried, the family realized in Montana that six rainless, smokeless days, and to have they’d never make it in time, so they hopped on Amtrak and sacrificed the ride across North Dakota. no mechanical issues (six days with only Between tough hills, long nights, and improvised camping spots, says Wensday, “There were one puncture among us); and wondering some nights that we found ourselves sleeping behind a Kohl’s, McDonald’s, or Dollar Tree. Those why we hadn’t seen another bicyclist in were some of my favorite nights because it felt so spontaneous!” Then there were the bizarre finds the entire Magruder Corridor. Mainly, on the side of the road. “One time, we stopped to see what it was and it happened to be two semi- though, we talked about “next time.” automatic rifles. We looked at them for awhile before throwing them back in case they were part of Bill Schneider of Helena, Montana, retired in 2000 a crime scene,” remembers Jordan. The end of the journey was hard-won but all the sweeter for it.

Y HANE CHUCK after a long career as a book publisher with Falcon Upon reaching the end, Kym remembers, “I had been fairly certain I would be justified in driving us Publishing. Now, in addition to riding his bicycles a so intensely to this point, and was incredibly grateful that I was not wrong.” lot, he works part-time as an outdoor writer, book author, and online columnist. From Adventure Cycling’s National Bicycle Touring Portrait Collection. © 2013 Adventure Cycling Association.

46 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2013 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2013 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 47