Magruder Road Corridor

United States Department of Agriculture

Forest Service NEZ PERCE AND BITTERROOT FORESTS

MAGRUDER ROAD CORRIDOR

Vista at Dry Saddle

A guide to the historic Magruder Road The Magruder To Hamilton 9595 Montana IDAHO Road Corridor MONTANA Darby

12 93 To Lost Trail Pass 95 SELWAY-BITTERROOT Idaho WILDERNESS West y Fork a To Grangeville 285 a 468 Elk City a 473 14 U a yRed River U a Ranger Station a a To Shoup, ID a a a

468

South Fork Red River FRANK CHURCH-RIVER OF NO RETURN U 222 WILDERNESS Dixie Introduction 1.2- million-acre Selway-Bitterroot The 101-mile primitive Magruder Wilderness to the north, and the Corridor Road winds through a vast 2.3-million-acre Frank Church- undeveloped area, offering solitude River of No Return Wilderness to and pristine beauty as well as the south. Together, they represent expansive mountain views. the largest unroaded block of land The landscape is much the same in the lower 48 states and are nearly as when the Nez Perce Indians and twice as large as the combined other early travelers crossed the states of Delaware and Rhode area. Island. The road has changed little since To help safeguard the natural-ness of wilderness, practice “leave no its construction by the Civilian trace” techniques to ensure the Conservation Corps (CCC) in the country you came to enjoy will 1930s. It has also been known as remain intact for future generations. the Southern Nez Perce Trail, Elk Another safeguard is the use of City to Darby Road, Montana Road certified weed-seed-free products. and the Parker Trail. As of January 1, 1996, all forage or mulch used on national forest lands Wilderness in Idaho and Montana must be The corridor was created in 1980 noxious weed-seed-free. when the Central Idaho Wilderness Remember the use of motorized Act was passed, leaving a unique or mechanized equipment or road that enables a traveler to drive vehicles is not permitted in a between two wildernesses: the designated wilderness. Page 1 Area Access Travel Time The Magruder Road, Forest Road Travel time varies, but it takes #468, is mostly unimproved. The eight to ten hours to travel from west end intersects Forest Road Red River to Darby without rest #222, 0.3 mile south of the old Red stops. The average speed will be River Ranger Station (65 miles east 12-15 miles per hour. A two-day of Grangeville, Idaho). The east trip is ideal with an overnight stay end is 0.8 mile south of West Fork at one of the dispersed or primitive Ranger Station (18 miles southwest campsite locations. of Darby, Montana). Take your time, absorb the Road Conditions solitude and enjoy the remoteness far from the hassles of crowded This primitive one-lane road is highways. rough, steep and winding, with few turnouts for passing oncoming Camping vehicles. It is suitable for high When camping at primitive clearance vehicles, pickup trucks, locations, please follow these motorcycles and mountain bikes. guidelines: The Forest Service does not recom- • Choose a site 200 feet from mend towing trailers because there trails and water. are several hairpin turns along the • Use existing fire grates and route. Motor homes with low fire rings when building clearance should not travel the road. campfires. Snow begins to fall in early • When going to the bathroom, October and persists into July; do as a cat: dig a hole and however, snowstorms are possible bury human waste. Maintain a at any time. Four-wheel-drive is distance of 200 feet from water and trails. recommended when the road is snow covered or muddy. • Make sure your campfire is dead out when you leave. Remember you are traveling through an extensive undeveloped • Pack out all trash, both yours area with no services for 117 miles. and that of others. Be sure you start with a vehicle in • Leave no trace of your stay. good operating condition, a full Drinking Water tank of gas and a spare tire. At all times be alert for other traffic, Water from springs, lakes, ponds washouts, fallen trees and other and streams should not be con- debris on the road. sumed without proper treatment (boiling for more than five minutes The road is busiest during the or using a water filter) as giardia Idaho hunting season: mid-Septem- could be present. It is a good idea ber through mid-November. to carry extra water.

Page 2 Red River Ranger Station to Granite Springs

To Grangeville Visitors will find the Mountain Meadows campsite in this vicinity. Elk City At 14-Mile Tree, the trailhead Red River begins for Trails 501 and 580, 14 y Ranger District which lead into the Frank Church- Mountain Granite River of No Return Wilderness. Meadows Springs Red River There is an information board, Ranger Station a registration box and toilet. Stock facilities include a feeding rack 468 and hitching rails. Granite Springs Campground Red River Granite Springs Campground lies South Fork222 FRANK on both sides of the road. It has CHURCH- Dixie drinking water, pit toilets, picnic RONR tables, stock facilities and water WILDERNESS for stock. Elk City Ranger Station Visitors are encouraged to stop at the Elk City Ranger Station on the Red River Ranger District in Elk City and ask questions about maps, road conditions, weather and any other concerns. After office hours, visitors can obtain limited information at an interpretive sign at the old Red River Ranger Station (now closed) that briefly The Southern Nez Perce Trail describes the Nez Perce Trail. It parallels a portion of the Magruder is located just south of the ranger Corridor Road. The Nez Perce station along with an RV dump Indians found a practical hunting/ station. Magruder Road #468 gathering route that followed the begins on the left side of Road South Fork of the Clearwater River #222. The first eight miles are a to the rolling country and lush steady climb. Oregon Butte meadows near Elk City and the Lookout and Buffalo Hump are upper Red River drainage. The visible to the west. trail went south of the extremely difficult terrain of the Selway- Mountain Meadows Bitterroot Wilderness, and also The headwaters of Meadow avoided the more rugged portion of Creek lie directly north of the the deep, narrow Salmon River road. canyon. Page 3 Elk Mountain Road to Burnt Knob Lookout Here in the Magruder Corridor and adjacent wildernesses, diverse 285 Green Burnt plant communities fill habitat needs Mtn. Knob for a variety of mammals, birds, Poet U reptiles and amphibians. U Creek Large mammals include black bear, sheep, goats and four deer a family members - 468 468C whitetail and mule deer, elk and moose. Deer are the most commonly seen FRANK CHURCH- animals. There RIVER OF are many smaller NO RETURN mammals, such as WILDERNESS badger, wolverine, pine marten, mink and weasels, but count yourself Elk Mountain Road #285 lucky if you see The road continues to climb one. However, you’ll see ground from the Granite Springs Camp- squirrels, golden-mantle squirrels, ground. Elk Mountain Road #285 red squirrels and two kinds of branches to the northeast, a chipmunks. You can differentiate driveable 4-miles to the Green between chipmunks and golden- Mountain Lookout, with views of mantle squirrels, as the chipmunk’s the Red River drainage. From the white stripes extend onto its head. #285 junction, the Magruder Road Be alert while traveling to increase winds steeply down into Bargamin your chances of seeing wildlife. Creek. Drive slowly and watch Burnt Knob Lookout Road for brakes heating up. From Poet Creek Campground, Poet Creek Campground the road climbs steeply for eight Poet Creek Campground lies miles with a few sharp curves. north of the Magruder Road. It Burnt Knob #468-C branches off has four camping units with tables, to the north. This road is recom- fireplaces, parking spurs, and pit mended for 4-wheel-drive only toilets. There is no developed and ends at Burnt Knob Lookout. water source. Because stock is Three Prong Trail #539, which not permitted in the campground, starts in the saddle below the four mangers are located south of lookout, accesses McArthur, the road. Stillman and Burnt Knob lakes. Page 4 Dry Saddle Trailhead to Horse Heaven Saddle SELWAY- Sabe Vista BITTERROOT From Dry Saddle, the rough and Dry WILDERNESS Saddle winding road drops down to Sabe Saddle and then climbs back up Sabe 468 again to Sabe Vista, which offers Vista Horse many scenic views. Elevation is Heaven 7490 feet at the vista. This portion of the road is very narrow and sometimes very steep. There are few places to pass another vehicle. FRANK CHURCH- A large burn, which was part of the Ladder Creek Fire complex, is RIVER OF visible at Sabe Vista. In 1988, NO RETURN three lightning strikes started three WILDERNESS different fires, which eventually merged into one fire. Nearly 70,000 acres were burned in three National Forests (Nez Perce, Bitterroot and Payette). Fire is a Dry Saddle Trailhead natural force which rejuvenates the Dry Saddle Trailhead lies both environment. north and south of the road and has pit toilets, a loading ramp and Horse Heaven Saddle graveled parking area. Elevation Horse Heaven is named for its at the trailhead is 7920 feet. It lush grazing grasses. Elevation at provides access to many high the saddle is 7070 feet. mountain lakes along Sheep Hill Horse Heaven Cabin was built in Trail #575. It is a ten-mile hike to 1939 at a CCC Camp near Darby, Sheep Hill fire lookout tower. MT. It was then dissassembled and transported more than 60 miles west where it once func- tioned as a firefighter's cabin. The cabin is south of the road on the spur road marked for trail #028. The one-room log cabin is presently on the Forest Service cabin rental program and will accommodate four people. Reser- vations and information is available at the West Fork Ranger Station. Page 5 int Salmon Mountain Area to Observation Point

SELWAY- Subalpine Larch BITTERROOT WILDERNESS Observation Point a Salmon Mtn. Lookout Trail Salmon Mtn. RS Salmon Mtn. "Ribbon forests" are visible on Site Base Camp the slopes in this area. These are elongated narrow forest strips growing perpendicular to prevail- FRANK CHURCH- ing wind directions and alternating RIVER OF with narrow bands of moist-wet NO RETURN subalpine meadows called “snow WILDERNESS glades.” Also, you can find good examples of “ghost” trees on the mountain. These whitebark pines Salmon Mountain Area were killed by a combination of The Old Salmon Mountain mountain pine beetle and blister Ranger Station site was established rust attacks. They became in 1911. Nearby is the Salmon bleached from the summer sun, Mountain base camp, a very giving them a ghost-white appear- popular trailhead during hunting ance. season. It has stock facilities. A Near the peak of the mountain one-mile trail leads to the Salmon are “banner” or “flag” trees and Mountain lookout tower which is stunted trees called “krummholz,” staffed by volunteers during fire which are often hundreds of years season. The elevation is 8944 feet. old and only two feet high. Mountain goats are often seen on the rocky crags and talus slopes of Observation Point Salmon Mountain. Observation Point Campground This area is one of the few places has nice camping spots and toilets. in America where you can see the The elevation is 7620 feet and subalpine larch. The larch is the visitors can view the southern only deciduous coniferous tree, portion of the Bitterroot Mountain meaning that its needles turn Range, especially El Capitan. The yellow and drop off in the fall. point also offers breathtaking vistas of subalpine/alpine wilderness.

Page 6 Magruder Crossing

SELWAY- BITTERROOT Lloyd Magruder WILDERNESS Gold was discovered near Pierce, Idaho, in 1861 and near Bannack, Montana, in 1862. Massacre 6223 Many miners and traders used the Site Southern Nez Perce Trail as the a most direct route from Elk City, Magruder Idaho, to Bannack or Virginia City, Crossing Montana. 468 In 1863 Lloyd Magruder and companions were returning along Salmon this route from Virginia City after Mtn. making a handsome profit of gold Area FRANK CHURCH- dust from selling supplies to RIVER OF miners. Four other travelers joined NO RETURN the Magruder group. A few days WILDERNESS later, the travelers attacked, murdered and robbed Magruder Magruder Crossing Bridge and his companions in the dark of The only place in the upper the night. The murderers burned Selway drainage you can drive and buried the evidence of their across the Selway River is at crime and fled to San Francisco Magruder crossing. This steel with their stolen booty. Hill pony-truss bridge was built by Beachy, Magruder’s friend, CCC’s in 1935. pursued the murderers and brought them back to stand trial in The campground has picnic Lewiston, Idaho. The trial resulted tables, a toilet, stock facilities and in the first legal hanging in the water for stock. Idaho Territory. Lloyd Magruder had been a successful California merchant. He was a well respected man and had many friends. Prior to his ill- fated trip, he had agreed to represent the Idaho Territory in Con- gress. As a result of this event, many places bear the name “Magruder,” among them the road on which you are traveling. Page 7 Paradise Road to Paradise

since the construction of the SELWAY- Lewiston Dam in 1929. BITTERROOT Paradise WILDERNESS A total of approximately two a million eggs were planted each year from 1965 to 1981 and again in 1985. In the spring the emerg- 6223 Indian a Creek ing fry were trapped and distrib- Raven uted in the upper Selway by aCreek vehicle, stock and aircraft. This supplemented the naturally spawning chinook salmon in the Selway 468 River. Chinook salmon are found throughout the Selway River, however, they are usually seen FRANK CHURCH- during peak spawning activity in RIVER OF NO RETURN late August and early September. WILDERNESS Paradise The elevation at Paradise is 3067 Paradise Road #6223 feet. A launch site for river rafting Travellers on this narrow one- is located near the end of Paradise lane road will enjoy a pleasant 12- Road. Permits are required from mile drive along the Wild and May 15 to July 31 to float the 47- Scenic Selway River. The river mile section of the Selway River flows through a deep, beautiful from Paradise to Selway Falls. canyon with some stands of Information can be obtained from western red cedar along its banks. the West Fork Ranger Station. There is a pack bridge for the trail Paradise Campground is 1/4 to Spot Mountain Lookout. Three mile up White Cap Creek road. campgrounds are available along The campground has eleven sites, the road: Raven Creek, Indian with toilets, picnic tables, stock Creek and Paradise. The road ends facilities and meat racks. This is a at Paradise Campground. very heavily used trailhead during hunting season. Indian Creek Hatchery A Forest Service administrative The Indian Creek hatching site is adjacent to the Paradise channel was constructed in 1964 Campground with a cabin, barn so that spring chinook salmon eggs and corrals. could be planted in the Selway River drainage. Fish had been unable to reach the Selway Page 8 Magruder Guard Station to Hells Half Acre

SELWAY- The office/residence and BITTERROOT ranger's house were built by Ole WILDERNESS Tangen, a Forest Service em- CCC ployee. The CCC constructed the Camp 468 barn, corral and woodshed. The station is eligible for Deep nomination to the National Regis- a Creek ter of Historic Places. The struc- tures are excellent examples of Magruder rustic log construction and interior Guard craftsmanship. Station 224 Deep Creek Bridge FRANK CHURCH- The Deep Creek bridge is a RIVER OF U beautiful example of arched native NO RETURN Hells cut-stone construction. It was built WILDERNESS Half Acre by Lithuanian stone masons who were assisted by CCC enrollees in the 1930’s. Magruder Guard Station Deep Creek Campground The Magruder Guard Station is The campground has three sites located 1/2 mile from Road #468. with picnic tables, toilets and stock The elevation is 4100 feet. Potable facilities. water is available here, but no other services are available at this remote CCC Camp station. A “host” may be here This was a spike camp used by during summer months to offer the CCC enrollees during construc- information to visitors. tion of the road. The stone water After the widespread forest fires fountain, an incinerator and several of 1910 and 1919, the Forest rock foundations, remnants of the Service built many low-standard camp, are still visible along both roads into the area. The road along sides of Deep Creek. Deep Creek was first surveyed in 1919-1920 and the road was Hells Half Acre Road #224 constructed to the newly estab- The road to Hells Half Acre lished tent camp known as Deep Lookout is 11 miles long and Creek Ranger Station. The name extremely steep, narrow and rocky. was later changed to Magruder. The lookout is staffed during fire The CCC improved the original season. The West Fork and Red road in 1936 and finished con- River Districts can contact the structing a one-lane road from the tower by radio for permission to station to Elk City. visit.

Page 9 ion Nez Perce Pass to West Fork Ranger Station

To Hamilton located at the pass. Please do not park on the landing zone. Darby MONTANA 93 Fales Flat Campground IDAHO This campground is named for To Wesley Fales, a trapper, woodsman Lost West Trail and early Forest Service employee, Fork Pass who located a homestead on the flat around 1914. He built a cabin y there which burned about 1940. Since he did not complete the Little West a patent process on his homestead, Fork 473 the entry was cancelled in June, 1929. Fales Flat was also the site Fales of a CCC camp in 1933. a Flat Nez Perce Numerous scarred ponderosa Pass To Shoup, ID pine trees are visible throughout the campground and hillsides to Paved Road the north. The sweet cambium Before the 1980 Central Idaho beneath the trees' bark was an Wilderness Act was passed, some important food for the Salish and of the area was prepared for timber Nez Perce people who passed sales. This 14-mile section of the through this area. road was paved in the 1970’s in Little West Fork Campground anticipation of those sales. If you are hiking in the area, you may The elevation is 4580 feet. Seg- notice trees marked for cutting. ments of the original CCC road are Timber harvest is not allowed in often visible about 25 feet north of designated wilderness areas. the present day road. Remnants of the historic bridges are visible at Nez Perce Pass Watchtower Creek and Little West The elevation at Nez Perce Pass Fork Creek. In the winter, this is a is 6598 feet. An information parking lot for snowmobilers. board at the pass interprets the West Fork Ranger Station history of the area and provides visitors with general information Visitors are encouraged to stop about this spectacular area. There and ask questions about maps, is a large parking area, toilet and road conditions, weather and any stock facilities. other concerns. A helicopter landing site is

Page 10 For More Information Nez Perce National Forest Route 2, Box 475 Grangeville, ID 83530 (208) 983-1950 *TTY (208) 983-2280

Red River Ranger District Elk City Ranger Station HC01, Box 416 Elk City, ID 83525 (208) 842-2245 The U. S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Bitterroot National Forest prohibits discrimination in all its programs and 1801 North 1st Street activities on the basis of Hamilton, MT 59840 race, color, national origin, gender, religion, age, (406) 363-7100 *TTY (406) 363-7116 disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation and marital or family status. (Not all prohibited bases West Fork Ranger District apply to all programs.) Persons with disabilities 6735 West Fork Road who require alternative Darby, MT 59829 means for communication of program information (406) 821-3269 (Braille, large print, audiotape, etc.) should contact USDA’s TARGET Website: www.fs.fed.us/r1/nezperce Center at 202-720-2600 *Telephone for Hearing Impaired (voice and TDD). To file a complaint of discrimination, write USDA, Director, Office of Civil Rights, Room 326-W, Whitten Building, 14th and Independence Avenue, SW, Washington, DC 20250- 9410, or call 202-720-5964 (voice and TDD). USDA is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

Arrowleaf Balsamrootooo R1-03-59