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® BELGIAN DARK STRONG ALE

Please note all file contents are Copyright © 2020 Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved. This file is for the buyer’s personal use only. It’s unlawful to share or distribute this file to others in any way including e-mailing it, posting it online, or sharing printed copies with others. BY GORDON STRONG BELGIAN DARK STRONG ALE elgians can be kind of touchy wonderful kind of beer — hopefully, we when talking about beer styles. can all agree on that. It’s certainly one They often think of every beer as of my absolute favorites. B unique. While they do have beers that can defy classification, some beers HISTORY share enough common characteristics Belgium has a long history of brew- that allow them to be grouped for ease ing, and also of religious institutions of discussion. Belgian dark strong ale is being related to brewing. It also has one of those styles. a long history of commerce, with the You won’t find any Belgian beers attendant protectionism, marketing, Belgian dark strong ale labeled as this style, however. Many promotion, and myth wrapped up in often just use a number (typically de- the history. as a beer style is entirely noting the obscure and archaic Belgian While many breweries claim a a fabrication of those of brewing degrees measure of original brewing tradition that goes back gravity), while some may use a differ- several centuries (Leffe, for instance, us who desire to ently colored cap or a special name. claims a tradition starting in 1240), this You might find some labeled Grand Cru, might lead you to believe that there is categorize and but this is more of a statement of qual- a continuous history, or that those who ity than style. claim a religious affiliation actually compare beer. Belgian dark strong ale as a beer have one. The first notion is almost style is entirely a fabrication of those certainly false, and many instances of of us who desire to categorize and the second one are as well. compare beer. It was named as such Two major events impacted brewing BELGIAN DARK STRONG ALE because the name is descriptive — all in Belgium. The French Revolution (and BY THE NUMBERS the words in the name carry meaning. the subsequent invasion of modern OG: ...... 1.075–1.110 And it is meant to contrast against Belgium, which was then occupied FG:...... 1.010–1.024 the Duvel-like Belgian golden strong by the Habsburg Austrians, in 1794) SRM:...... 12–22 ale style. closed all churches and religious or- IBU:...... 20–35 The Beer Judge Certification ders, and suppressed religious worship. Program (BJCP) includes Belgian dark Many abbeys and monasteries were de- ABV: ...... 8.0–12.0% strong ale as style 26D within Category stroyed, and property was confiscated. 26, Trappist Ale (soon to be renamed Religious brewing ceased at this time. Monastic Ale). The other styles within After Napoleon was defeated, Belgium this category include Trappist single later gained its independence in 1830. (soon to be renamed Belgian single), Some monasteries related to brewing Belgian dubbel, and Belgian tripel. were established or reopened then With this progression of multiples, (Westmalle in 1836 was the first). why not call the style Belgian quad? World War I (1914–1918) was the Well, in Belgium the term quadru- second major event to impact brew- pel isn’t generic — it’s the name of a ing, as Belgium was a trench warfare specific beer (LaTrappe/Konigshoeven battlefield and occupied territory. The Quadrupel). So to avoid confusion, occupying Germans requisitioned we use the more generic name. Many breweries for their copper, and resourc- breweries in the US do call this style es were scarce. Some breweries opened quad, however; treat them as syn- or reopened in the inter-war period onyms, not separate styles (even (Westmalle in 1922, when it first pro- though the Brewers Association has duced its dubbel). Westvleteren started separate styles for Belgian-style dark making their 12 right before World War strong ale and Belgian-style quadrupel, II (1939–1945). Belgium received less they are very similar). direct impacts from this war, but it was Regardless of what it’s called, it’s a still occupied by the Germans from May Photo by Charles A. Parker/Images Plus Parker/Images A. Charles by Photo

1 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved BELGIAN DARK Chill the wort to 64 °C (18 °F), pitch the yeast, and ferment until STRONG ALE complete. Allow the beer to free rise (5 gallons/19 L, all-grain) in temperature during fermentation. OG = 1.091 FG = 1.015 Rack the beer, prime and bottle IBU = 24 SRM = 26 ABV = 10.2% (or cask) condition, or keg and force carbonate the beer. INGREDIENTS 7 lbs. (3.2 kg) Pilsner malt 3 lbs. (1.4 kg) pale ale malt BELGIAN DARK 2 lbs. (0.91 kg) Munich malt STRONG ALE 2 lbs. (0.91 kg) dark Munich malt (5 gallons/19 L, extract 1 lb. (454 g) aromatic malt with grains) 1 lb. (454 g) crystal malt (40 °L) OG = 1.091 FG = 1.015 2 oz. (57 g) chocolate malt IBU = 24 SRM = 26 ABV = 10.2% 1 lb. (454 g) dark candi syrup (0 min.) INGREDIENTS 1 lb. (454 g) amber (brown) sugar 6.5 lbs. (2.9 kg) pale liquid malt (0 min.) extract 5 AAU Saaz hops (60 min.) 3.25 lbs. (1.5 kg) Munich liquid (1 oz./28 g at 5% alpha acids) malt extract 3.6 AAU Styrian Goldings hops 1 lb. (454 g) crystal malt (40 °L) (10 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 3.6% alpha 2 oz. (57 g) chocolate malt acids) 1 lb. (454 g) dark candi syrup 0.5 oz. (14 g) Saaz hops (5 min.) (0 min.) Wyeast 3787 (Trappist High 1 lb. (454 g) amber (brown) sugar Gravity) or White Labs WLP500 (0 min.) (Monastery Ale) or LalBrew Abbaye 5 AAU Saaz hops (60 min.) Belgian Ale yeast (1 oz./28 g at 5% alpha acids) 1 cup corn sugar (for priming) 3.6 AAU Styrian Goldings hops (10 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 3.6% alpha STEP BY STEP acids) This recipe uses reverse osmosis (RO) 0.5 oz. (14 g) Saaz hops (5 min.) water. Adjust all brewing water to a Wyeast 3787 (Trappist High pH of 5.5 using phosphoric acid. Add Gravity) or White Labs WLP500 1 tsp. of calcium chloride directly to (Monastery Ale) or LalBrew Abbaye the mash. Belgian Ale yeast This recipe uses a step mash. 1 cup corn sugar (for priming) Mash in the Pilsner, pale ale, Munich, dark Munich, and aromatic malts STEP BY STEP at 144 °F (62 °C) in 23 qts. (22 L) Start with 6.5 gallons (24.5 L) of water. Hold for 45 minutes. Raise the water in the brew kettle; heat to temperature to 158 °F (70 °C) and 158 °F (70 °C). hold for 15 minutes. Add crystal and Turn off the heat. Add the crystal chocolate malt. Begin recirculating and chocolate malt in a mesh bag and raise temperature to 168 °F (76 and steep for 30 minutes. Remove °C) and recirculate for 15 minutes. and rinse grains gently. Sparge slowly and collect 6.5 gallons Add the malt extracts and stir (24.5 L) of wort. thoroughly to dissolve completely. Boil the wort for 90 minutes, Turn the heat back on and bring to a adding hops at the times indicated in boil. Follow the all-grain recipe’s step the recipe. Add the sugars at the end by step for boil, fermentation, and of the boil and stir to dissolve. packaging instructions.

2 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved 1940 until its final liberation in Febru- ary 1945. Other modern examples of Belgian dark strong ales from Trappist monas- teries began to appear after World War II: Chimay in 1948 and Rochefort in 1952. More Trappist monasteries start- ed producing beer later, such as Achel towards the end of the 20th century. LaTrappe began making their Quadru- pel in 1991, although this brewery is in the Netherlands. Not all Trappist breweries have a Belgian dark strong ale type beer. Orval is known for its flagship beer, as well as a smaller version. Westmalle does not produce a beer of this type. But the breweries at Chimay, Rochefort, Westv- leteren, and Achel certainly are enough Bernt Rostad by Photo Formerly business partners until the rise of the Trappist certification, two world-renowned Belgian dark to illustrate the range of the style. strong ales: Brouwerij St. Bernardus’ Abt 12 on the left and Trappist brewery Brouwerij de Sint-Sixtus- Inspired by the popularity of Trap- abdij van Westvleteren’s Trappist 12 on the right. pist beers, other breweries started you the first clues about this style. It’s a shouldn’t have a roasted malt charac- producing beers of similar type (which Belgian ale, so it has a spicy and fruity ter. is basically the definition of a style) yeast character. It’s darker than golden Hops take a back seat in this beer, around 1960. Many of these beers were ales, and it’s usually above 8% ABV in with aroma and flavor often absent called Abbey beers and had a religious strength. But to stop here is to do a or very low. Bitterness helps keep it connection, although only the Trappists great injustice to the style; it’s like call- from being cloying or syrupy, but the brewed beer under the supervision of ing sushi (sashimi for true fans) “cold finish should be dry and malty with monks on religious ground. Many brew- dead fish.” significant yeast character. These beers eries licensed the names and imagery The aroma and flavor are malty and age well, and sometimes have a light of Abbeys, but do not operate brewer- rich, but the beer shouldn’t be heavy. beneficial oxidation character. ies themselves. Leffe, for instance, is As with most Belgian ales, the beer is Contrasting with other styles, a owned by ABInBev. well attenuated with a dry finish. Bit- Belgian dark strong ale is darker than The Trappists created the Inter- terness is typically restrained, although a Tripel or Belgian golden strong ale, national Trappist Association in 1997 the Westvleteren 12 is somewhat of an and stronger than a dubbel. Authentic to protect its trademark. Abbey brew- outlier with a higher level that tends examples are rarely spiced, although ers followed in 1998 with the Certi- to be equally balanced with the malt. Rochefort is thought to use a trace of fied Belgian Abbey Beer mark. Some Some examples can seem somewhat coriander. I think saying that the style breweries making similar beer just use sweet if the beers are young or if the should have an overt spiced character vaguely religious names and aren’t bitterness is on the low side. is fair, since the yeast (and alcohol) affiliated with these institutions at all. The malt profile is rich and com- often bring a fairly spicy quality. Yet all of them owe their beers to the plex, with a deep bready-toasty base types first produced by the Trappists. and some darker caramel notes. Fruiti- BREWING INGREDIENTS AND One thing to note about Trappist ness adds complexity to the malt, with METHODS beer is that it isn’t a style; it’s a source the fruit taking the form of dried and/ I used to think that you had to carefully of origin. Technically, any beer made by or darker fruit like raisins, plums, figs, select malts to build the flavor profile a Trappist brewery is a Trappist beer. dried cherries, or prunes. Peppery and for a beer like this, using malts like They could make an imperial stout or spicy phenols give an accent note. The Special B for raisiny flavors and Cara- IPA, and it would be called Trappist. So alcohol can add its own complexity, but munich® III for plum and dark caramel the use of the word in a more generic should never be hot or solvent-like. flavors. But those were the days when sense to represent a beer style can The body can be fairly lean, al- we couldn’t get good candi syrups that be confusing; hence the decision by though younger versions can seem provide those characteristic flavors. the BJCP to change the style category richer and creamier. Carbonation is While it doesn’t matter which form you name in the next edition of the style typically quite high, which causes the use, I think it’s easier to use syrups. The guidelines. beer to have a well-formed and long- hard candi rocks generally had little lasting head. The color can range from flavor and have mostly disappeared SENSORY PROFILE dark amber to a deep copper-brown from use. The name Belgian dark strong ale gives color, but not black. Likewise, the beer Belgians like to step mash, as do

3 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved Germans, to produce dry, well-attenuat- give a very different character at vari- examples. Bitterness is on the lower ed beers. The use of sugar (up to 20% ous temperatures, which is one reason side so that the beer finishes malty. If or so) also helps with this character, I like to recommend that you find a you need to adjust your water to add although the use of crystal malts can strain or two you prefer and then run calcium, use calcium chloride since this increase the final gravity along with multiple experiments to learn how it is a malty beer and the sulfur flavors adding flavor. I have seen Belgian performs. won’t work as well in the overall bal- breweries use a wide variety of malts, Many Belgian breweries tend to ance. although the most common malt I use shallow or open fermenters, which Of course I’m using my favorite saw there was Dingemans Pils malt. encourages ester formation and also Belgian yeast, Wyeast 3787, which However, Munich-type malts add a very allows the fermentation temperatures comes from Westmalle. I like to start desirable richness in these beers so to not get extreme. I worry about sani- fermentation on the cool side and let it should be part of the grist. tation with these methods, so I tend to free rise during fermentation to ensure Belgian brewers often blend a go cool on the fermentation and just good attenuation. This yeast often variety of malts of the same or similar let it rise (which is how some Belgian quits if you try to cool it prematurely types to get a more complex flavor, so breweries do it too). so I tend to let it do what it wants. I don’t feel too limited (see Josh Pfriem’s Trappist xamples of this style are like to see the beer drop bright before Fruitiness adds complexity to the malt, with the fruit taking the form of dried and/or darker fruit like raisins, plums, figs, dried cherries, or prunes. “Tips from the Pros” in the January- bottle conditioned (the Belgians say, packaging, which also helps ensure the February 2019 issue for more on this “refermented in the bottle”). Remember yeast are done breaking down byprod- concept). A touch of dark malt for that higher alcohol beers can use some ucts they produce during fermentation. color adjustment is sometimes used, cellaring to develop their character. While I often keg this beer, it really although roasted flavors shouldn’t be I think many are best between six- is most traditional to prime and bottle perceived in this style. Dark malts have months and two-years old, but I do like condition it. If you do keg the beer, use an anti-oxidant effect that can increase keeping some older “reserve” bottles a lower pressure over a longer time beer stability, so I like to include a for special occasions. period in a cold environment to help pinch. develop the tiny bubbles that make Hops are simple in this style; a bit- HOMEBREW EXAMPLE this beer so attractive when poured tering addition is all you really need. A I’m presenting a fairly complex recipe into a goblet. But if you do bottle it, it’s light aroma and flavor addition can be that uses layers of malt flavor to build easier to give me one . . . nice as long as it is kept in the back- a solid base that displays the yeast ground. Noble continental hops are character well. A mix of Pilsner, pale most common. Spicy, herbal, and floral ale, Munich, dark Munich, and aromatic qualities that complement the yeast provide a rich malty flavor with consid- are preferable. erable depth. I think the dark Munich The yeast provides much of the and aromatic are important for the character of the beer (along with the final malt flavor, while the other malts dark candi syrup). The Abbey-type could be consolidated if you wish. I strains are most common. You want like to use continental malts, Belgian if ones that provide complex esters with available, otherwise German maltsters. some phenols. The esters should be The darker flavors come primarily darker fruit types, and the phenols from dark candi syrup like D2, which should be peppery and spicy. Using the also adds some dark-fruit qualities. banana-and-clove hefeweizen-type Some additional brown sugar provides yeasts are not appropriate for this style more flavors like toffee and molasses. (it might make the beer taste like a Crystal malt adds some caramel. The weizenbock). sugars also help with attenuation, as There is no consensus on fermen- does a step mash. You don’t want this tation temperature for these beers. to taste heavy like a barleywine. Multiple breweries often use the same I like the combination of Saaz and yeast strain but at different tempera- Styrian Goldings in many of my Belgian tures. The Belgian yeast strains usually beers, and it’s pretty true to commercial

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