DEAR GEMüTLICHKEIT SUBSCRIBER The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe Online Offers Not All Good “With all the free travel information on the Internet, why should I pay KOBLENZ Gemütlichkeit?” Here’s one reason: On the strip of land where the Rhine and Mosel rivers meet, surprising Last month, a promotional e- mail from a tourist authority funded Koblenz is at the very heart of Germany’s best-known wine regions. jointly by the Alpine countries— oblenz reveals itself at many Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Many structures retained their old levels. At first look some Italy, and France—contained the façades but were otherwise rebuilt might dismiss it as an undis- following item: K from the ground up. For a compel- tinguished, small, modern city. But ling example, visit the Jesuiten- The charming mountain hotel don’t rush away. Although it was kirche, which retains its 17th-centu- Forsthaus Graseck—which boasts more than 85 percent destroyed in ry giant rosette window and portal its own cable car—offers double November 1944, this is a but was entirely rebuilt inside—in € rooms from 52 to 86 per person/per By Jim town of surprising history, boldly modern form—with relics € Johnson night, single rooms from 29 to 56. charm, and architectural trea- from its lengthy history. Very reasonably priced apartments sures. The museums alone could keep Some buildings have been pains- are also available. some visitors captivated for a week. takingly restored. But even today’s And Koblenz is a perfect base for ex- Forsthaus Graseck’s three-night most skilled artisans sometimes ploring not only the Rhine and Mosel “Mountain and Wellness” package can’t match their predecessors. Rivers that border the city, but also includes a gondola excursion to Mt. Stand at the center of the so-called € lesser known rural regions like the Eckbauer. Price for three nights: 259 “Four Corners” in the pedestrian Westerwald, Hunsrück, and Eiffel. per person. The hiking tour contained in zone. Four ornate 17th-century oriel the package is followed by a health spa Koblenz is a case study in the windows stand over each corner. treatment and massage, as well as body- dilemma faced by many German Three were rebuilt in the 1950s fol- wrapping with fango or hay: www. cities after the war: how to rebuild. Continued on page 3… forsthaus-graseck.de; info@forsthaus- graseck.de; www.cometogermany.com. Along Austria’s Romantikstrasse... The Forsthaus Graseck is well- known to this writer. We first Kremsmünster went there in 1979, after seeing ith the two richest men thriving little town of Kremsmün- it’s red roof-peak symbol in the in America, Bill Gates ster, on Austria’s Romantikstrasse, ’79 Michelin Red Guide for Germany. W and Warren Buffet, buy- and the Hotel Schlair. (Like most The hotel is very remote, reached ing euros, one would have to be a “romantic” and “wine” roads, this only by the two persons-plus- cockeyed optimist to envision a one was probably dreamed up by luggage cable car that rises out of stronger dollar anytime soon. marketing people. Nonetheless, as it a tiny enclave at the end of an Thus we must continue the search avoids the Autobahn between unpaved road, not far from the for regions, cities, hotels, and restau- Salzburg and Vienna, it winds old Olympic ski stadium. We rants where our puny dollars have through some of Austria’s prettiest loaded our luggage into the more purchasing power. Places with countryside, visiting such towns as cramped cable car and ascended lower prices are usually not on the St. Wolfgang, Bad Ischl, Gmunden, to the hotel’s Bergbahn station part beaten tourist track; often because Steyr, Grein, Melk, Dürnstein, way up the mountain. Dangling they simply aren’t appealing to tour- Krems, and Klostenburg.) hundreds of feet above the rugged ists or because they lack tourism in- Partnach gorge, while brushing Just six kilometers off the Auto- frastructure; but once in a while they bahn, Kremsmünster is about a third Continued on page 2… just haven’t been discovered. of the way to Vienna from In this issue... A village that falls in that catego- Salzburg—or about half way be- p1 Koblenz ry is the lovely little town of Seeg, tween Munich and Vienna—and p1 Kremsmünster near Füssen in Bavaria, and the Pen- Continued on page 6… p5 Key Websites sion Heim, both of which we report- p8 Glacier Express Exchange rates as of 03/27/05 ed on in the March issue. 1 euro = $1.29 p8 Readers’ Forum This month, we recommend the 1 Swiss franc = $0.83 www.gemut.com April 2005 www.gemut.com DEAR SUBSCRIBER and water stains on the coffee tables had seen enough. Our old favorite, were in exactly the same places they the Forsthaus Graseck, is a sad, Continued from page 1 had been 10 years before. Something dreary, decaying mess. rocky outcrops in a rickety, swing- was obviously wrong. ing capsule about the size of an The point of this story is that elevator in a very small hotel, is not Last December, curious about the Internet has no filter. In the a ride for the acrophobic. the state of a hotel that held so avalanche of offers that appear many wonderful memories for us, every day in my in-box, junk often The Forsthaus turned out to be an and harboring hopes of a resurrec- looks just as good as quality. That, almost fairy-tale Bavarian mountain tion, we rode the cable car once of course, is why you rely on chalet. A shaggy St. Bernard pa- more. The upper Bergbahn station is Gemütlichkeit. As one of our renew- trolled the reception area, an open now in such a state of disrepair that al letters says, “Our recommenda- Stube fire warmed a cozy , and the one becomes uneasy about the con- tions and cautions are based on guestrooms, each with balcony, faced dition of the cars and cables one’s what we have personally seen, the dominating view of the magnifi- very life depends on. heard, tasted, sniffed, and cently craggy Wetterstein range. In 10 seconds we knew there had touched.” Though we cannot, of The hotel had a connection with been no resurrection. The hotel’s ex- course, filter the Internet, you can the Olympics and in its stairwells terior was shabby. Inside it was quiet, trust our information. hung signed photos of Germany’s dirty, and, sad to say, unchanged. We The foregoing raises a question: leading skiers and famous frequent settled in the Stube for an afternoon Does the Alpine tourist authority guests, such as international Olym- cup of tea and a snack. Even this sim- apply some threshold standard to pic czar, Avery Brundage — the ple fare was sub-par and served in an the properties and offers it pro- man who decided the 1972 Munich offhand manner. The slanting after- motes? In my experience, even Olympics would continue after 11 noon sun revealed layers of dust and though they represents the com- members of the Israeli team were dirt on floors and surfaces. I have no mercial interests of their members murdered by Palestinian terrorists. doubt the chairs, tables, and recep- (mostly hotels), the German, Swiss, The moderately-priced hotel’s up- tion area furnishings are relics from Continued on page 7… scale clientele were no doubt at- 1979, without any attempt during tracted, as we were, by the idyllic that 25-year period to paint, refinish, Using Gemütlichkeit location. or upholster. • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Discounts are often available for longer stays. Year after year, we went back. On the stone walkway, 10 feet • All hotel prices include breakfast unless otherwise The view and the location remained from the hotel’s entrance, sat a pile noted. stellar. The hotel did not. Soon it lost • Local European telephone area codes carry the “0” of dog droppings. We watched two its “red” designation in Michelin required for in-country dialing. To phone establish- employees walk past the mess ments from outside the country, such as from the USA, (awarded to particularly “pleasant or without a glance. The dress and do not dial the first “0”. restful” hotels), and in a few years it demeanor of the employees we disappeared from the guide altogeth- Logging on to Our Website observed during our 30-minute Back issues in text format from January 1993, except for er. On a return visit in the early ’90s visit were not consistent with what we noted that little if anything had the most recent 12, are available free to subscribers only at Gemütlichkeit considers minimum www.gemut.com (click on “Members”). To access the been done to the guestrooms and standards. For a moment, we issues, enter the user name and password published in public areas. The mattresses had be- thought about asking to see a cou- this space each month. The new codes are: come lumpy, and the cigarette burns ple of guestrooms but decided we User Name: marc Password: 2468

Vol. 19, No. 3 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY April 2005 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers: Robert Robert H. H.& Elizabeth& Elizabeth S. S. Bestor Bestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Editor:Executive Editor:Robert Nikki H. Goth Bestor Itoi Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Contributors:Senior Writer:Doug Linton, C. Fischer, R. Holliday, Jim Jim Johnson Johnson Adequate 4 - 7 WebContributor: Master: Paul T. Merschdorf Mark Honan Unacceptable 0 - 3 Consulting Editor: Editor: Thomas Thomas P. P. Bestor Bestor Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale SubscriptionOnline Services: Dept: Kurt Kurt Steffans Steffans People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 Subscriber Travel Travel Services: Services: Andy Andy Bestor, Bestor, Laura Laura Riedel Riedel Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 10 times each year by UpCountry Guestrooms 30% Average Value 9 - 11 Publishing, 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521- Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 6722 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail [email protected]. Web Facilities/Restaurant 20% A Rip-Off 0 - 4 site: www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $67 per year for 10 issues. While every effort is made to provide correct information, the publishers can make Special G Designation no guarantees regarding accuracy. By virtue of location, decor, charm, warmth of management, or POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: combination thereof, an especially pleasant establishment. Gemütlichkeit, 288 Ridge Road., Ashland OR 97520 Gemütlichkeit 2 April 2005 www.gemut.com

KOBLENZ Koblenz Basics cations in Europe after Gibraltar. Continued from page 1 Population: 108,000 Tours in English are by appointment only (tel. and fax +49/261/9742440), Elevation: 597 feet (182 meters) lowing detailed designs. Line for but English-language pamphlets are line, they probably match the pre- Tourist Office: Koblenz Touristik, Bahnhofplatz 17, 56068 Koblenz, tel. +49/ available, and most of the facility is cise plans and specifications of the 261/31304, fax +49/261/1004388, e-mail open for exploration. originals. But the fourth oriel, in its [email protected], Web The view from the fortress points www.koblenz.de original form, projects so much out the strategic significance of the more life and vibrancy. city. More than 2,000 years ago, Ro- Many structures were demolished Driving Distances: mans built their first fortress in a town and replaced by fully modern con- Berlin 378 miles 609 km they called Confluentes, Latin for con- struction. It’s easy to see how the Hamburg 325 miles 525 km fluence, or “where rivers flow togeth- haste and economy of the 1950s Heidelberg 112 miles 180 km er.” They controlled traffic and com- translated into somewhat straightfor- Mainz 69 miles 111 km merce on both rivers, and for much of ward, efficient, and unimaginative Munich 316 miles 509 km two millennia the city was part of an structures. But buildings from the Paris 336 miles 541 km intermittent tug-of-war, starting with 1960s and 1970s reveal the more the Romans and Franks, continuing Trier 78 miles 126 km modern tastes of the times. A few between the Prussians and the French, eyebrows were raised—but perhaps and with occupying nations following no more so than the Baroque archi- Nearest Airports: Frankfurt and Co- both world wars. As they have for logne/Bonn Airports lie nearly equi- tecture that replaced many Gothic distant from Koblenz, about 65 miles centuries, riverboats and barges cast and Romanesque buildings after the (100 km) away. their wakes toward the riverbanks. French destroyed two-thirds of the Rail Service: Koblenz lies on major German mythos city in 1688. In the late 19th and 20th north-south and east-west rail lines with The two rivers play a major role excellent and frequent rail service. centuries, Jugendstil (art nouveau) in the German mythos. The Rhine architecture must have caused a stir symbolizes strength and pride, while Order of German Knights had its as well. At Firmungstrasse 11, look the Mosel is more nurturing. Indeed, headquarters as early as 1216. The up to see the giant head of the Greek just a short stroll upstream along the statue was destroyed by bombs in goddess Hygieia. Rhine Promenade, sculpted figures 1944. From 1953, the bare pedestal was Old-town charm of “Father Rhine and Mother Mosel” known as the “Memorial to German This is not to say that Koblenz is lie caressing and affectionate on a bed Unity.” In 1993, after reunification, the devoid of old architecture or old-town of grapes. Behind them in stately statue was replaced with a copy. To- charm. Quite the opposite is true, es- counterpoint stands the sprawling day, flags of all German states wave pecially in the Altstadt, that corner of neoclassical Elector’s Palace, built in proudly over the two rivers. the city bordered on the north by the the late 1700s (closed to the public). Mosel and by the Rhine on the east. Watch the waters of the Mosel One of the Rhine’s most scenic Here, it is a town of narrow alleys and enter and mix with the Rhine; it’s promenades starts here, just outside vibrant plazas. entrancing. The backdrop of the the Altstadt, and continues about two Perhaps the most calming and Ehrenbreitstein across the Rhine miles (three kilometers) upstream. scenic walk, and one that gives a sense doesn’t hurt either. From this mighty Energetic walkers can enjoy the Em- of the old-town’s breadth, is along the fortress, looming 388 feet (118 press Augusta Park’s extensive Mosel and Rhine promenades. Start meters) above the Rhine, visitors gain flower gardens, commissioned by with a stroll across the Balduin an instant sense of Koblenz’s symbol- the Prussians. At her monument, Bridge, first built across the Mosel in ic strength and historic significance. walk to the street, enjoy a view of 1337. The view back to the Altstadt Fortified city the early 20th-century villas, and gives a good perspective, with the To visit the fortress, travel by take a short bus ride back to town. turrets of the Old Castle and the two passenger ferry from near the Ger- Less energetic visitors—or those steeples of St. Florin’s Church. man Corner to the base of the citadel, who are simply hungry or thirsty— Parts of this walk are a reminder and take a small cable car to the top. may wish to break instead at the that the effects of war linger: vacant For those who prefer more conven- Wine Village, built for the 1925 lots and stark walls of buildings quick- tional transportation, it’s about 20 German Wine Exhibition and con- ly repaired. This lasts barely the length minutes by car or 30 minutes by bus. sisting of half-timber buildings of a football field, however, and soon The Prussians built Ehrenbreitstein from Germany’s major wine regions. the Rhine and Mosel flow together at in the early 19th century as a line of Inside, the view is to the relaxing the so-called “German Corner.” It’s defense against the French. With Rhine. Outside is a trellised court- here that a giant copper statue of Kai- three other nearby fortresses (de- yard. ser Wilhelm I on horseback was erect- stroyed by treaty after World War I), On the return to the Altstadt, stop ed in 1897, close to the spot where the Koblenz contained the largest fortifi- at the Görresplatz and study the Gemütlichkeit 3 April 2005 www.gemut.com Koblenz History Column, a towering House, and St. Florin’s Church, con- Café (Firmungstrasse 2) offers an statue built in 1992 to mark the city’s structed between the 12th and 14th eclectic mixture of styles and atmo- 2000-year anniversary. The 10 layers centuries. Don’t walk by too quickly. spheres: Viennese-style café (in art depict key scenes from the past in- Over the entrance of the Old Mer- deco design), cocktail bar, basement cluding the first Roman settlement, chants & Dance House is the “Eye dance floor (for events like salsa seat of the empire of Charlemagne, Roller,” constructed beneath the tower nights and jazz concerts) and cigar Crusades, Thirty Years War, French clock in 1724 to commemorate the lounge. The grand-scale interior is Revolution, Prussian period, destruc- execution here of a legendary robber wide open with mezzanines—an tion in 1944, and, from the storm baron. Instead of chiming bells, the excellent example of modern flair clouds of war, a revived city looking eyes in the carved face roll. mixing with traditional styles. to the future. It’s a brilliantly graphic Walk parallel down the Mosel to- Lunches are popular with three- € visual display that gives a historic ward the Rhine, and St. Castor Basilica course specials from less than 8. perspective to the city and, to a great comes into view. The Romanesque To get a taste of the local art extent, the evolving nation. A marker church was consecrated in 836, and most scene, try Café Miljöö (Gemüsegasse gives detailed descriptions in English of the impressive structure dates from the 8), one of Koblenz’s many “art bars.” and German. 12th century. Behind it, stroll along the The outstanding work from local Continue to the “Plan,” or main gravel paths of the peaceful Blumenhof artists changes often, and it’s worth a square, once and still an important (Courtyard of Flowers) under a canopy stop for wine, coffee or a full meal. meeting place. Here, the jousting and of trees and high shrubs. Behind the ivy Breakfast is served until 5pm. hangings of the past have yielded to walls, time feels little changed through There’s been a heavy Italian in- more amiable social activities and the centuries. fluence in Koblenz since the 1930s, the focus is now on food and wine. Cafés galore and one sign is the proliferation of Stairs lead from the Plan through a Although Koblenz lacks a univer- ice cream shops and cafés. The best small gate to the Liebfrauenkirche sity in its downtown area, the city of the bunch is Eiscafe am Jesuiten- (Church of Our Beloved Lady), one of maintains a youthful vibrancy platz (Firmungstr. 34), started in the oldest sites of Christian worship through its lively café and bistro 1934 by Nonno Vincenzo Brustolon, along the Rhine. As early as the 5th cen- scene—morning, noon and night. It’s whom the Jesuitenplatz reminded of tury, Christians worshipped in a church a city that likes to have fun, and the his favorite Italian “piazzas.” Try the on this site. Today, the church stands as most fun is along the Firmungstrasse spaghetti (ice cream, not pasta) with a stone tutorial with brilliant examples in the pedestrian zone. fresh fruits and berries, liqueurs or of architectural styles from the late Ro- Café Einstein (Firmungstrasse 30) caramelized walnuts. manesque, Gothic, Renaissance and is one of the hot new restaurants and Lodging Baroque periods. The main basilica was bars with as much emphasis on built in the 12th and 13th centuries. eclectic ambience as on food. A broad Hotel Haus Morjan From the nearby Münzplatz seating area surrounds a circular bar, The Hotel Haus Morjan, over- (Mint Square), site of an early Roman and tall windows fold back so that looking the Rhine promenade, is fort, pass by the tacky bars and tattoo chairs and tables sprawl into the worth an overnight if only for the parlors to find the hidden Kunst- plaza. It’s worth a stop whether for stunning views from its flower- Gässchen (Little Art Alley) at Münz- coffee, a drink or more, especially decked balconies. Imagine waking to platz 6-8, which snakes through a when there’s live piano music— both the sun rising over the Ehrenbreit- line of cubby-holed studios. Persist to jazz and classical. Or just look around stein Fortress and the Rhine. Or re- the end and be rewarded with the at the paintings of namesake Albert laxing at “home” in the evening, Ceramics Studio Erdreich, where riding a bike, playing a violin, stick- while the last steamship casts off its owner/artist Michael Borowieck ing out his tongue, or in more formal lines barely 100 feet away and cou- displays and explains his avant poses. ples stroll along the moonlit prome- garde and often R-rated work. The Einstein faces its more sedate but nade. Although the hotel itself is alleyway offers an excellent opportu- still pleasantly quirky partner, Da modern, it stands adjacent to the nity to view medieval construction, Vinci (Firmungstrasse 32b), which Altstadt and in a line of cafés, restau- as many of the walls have been left offers Mediterranean cuisine in a clas- rants and Weinstuben that lend plenty open to reveal the weave of wood, sically beautiful setting. Floors are of Old World charm. All 33 rooms plaster and straw. cherry, walls a sumptuous green, and are spacious, bright, and clean. Ask From this high point in the Alts- the restaurant features paintings and for a third-floor room with balcony tadt, narrow alleys wind to the Mosel sculptures in Renaissance style but by (the fourth floor offers better views making for eager exploration. The modern Italian artists. Other Italian but no balconies). 13th-century Old Castle starts a row artisans were brought in to work on Contact: Hotel Haus Morjan, Kon- of architectural treasures: the 16th- the gilding and scrollwork. rad-Adenauer-Ufer, D-56068 century Lay Jurists Building, the The spacious, multi-story Grand Koblenz, tel. +49/361/304290, fax 15th-century Old Merchants & Dance

Gemütlichkeit 4 April 2005 www.gemut.com

3042956, e-mail info@hotel-haus- outside walls of the main building in clientele, mostly frequent and long- morjan.de, Web www.hotel- Hundertwasser style: a solid-color time guests, is equally cordial. Menu morjan.de. scene of earth, heaven, sky, sun and favorites include venison goulash in Daily Rates: Singles from €57-72, stars with metal figures “climbing” wine sauce with potato dumplings doubles from €87-113. toward the roof. Guests use a wood- and red cabbage, jellied pork with Rating: QUALITY 14/20, VALUE 16/20 en bridge to cross duck ponds, where remoulade sauce, herring salad with sculptures poke through reeds. In- apples and cucumbers, boiled beef City-Hotel Kurfürst Balduin side, it’s a labyrinth of surprises: In with horseradish and creamed cab- If budget is a priority, the prices the bar, the seats are saddles and bage (excellent) and lighter salad, are great at the City-Hotel Kurfürst chandeliers are traffic lights. Classical cheese and sausage plates. Most en- Balduin. The rooms are clean, quiet, statues stand under hanging mario- trées fall between €9-12. On any giv- well-outfitted and modern, if not nettes, knights’ armor next to carou- en evening, 40 German wines are spacious, and the location is great: sel horses. Artwork and antiques offered by the glass and more than 70 immediately across the street from from the past two centuries fill every by the bottle. the pedestrian zone, one block from possible nook. The initial overwhelm- Contact: Weinhaus Hubertus, Flor- the Mosel and on a direct bus line to ing effect transforms quickly to a insmarkt 6, 56068 Koblenz, tel. +49/ the train station. But the ambiance is sense of fun that some people shared 261/3 11 77, fax 100 4919. bare-basics, a nondescript conference their love of whimsy and detail to Rating: QUALITY 15/20, VALUE 14/20 hotel. create this unusual space. As expect- Contact: City-Hotel Kurfürst Balduin, ed, the 185 guest rooms are individu- Winninger Weinstuben Hohenfelderstrasse 12, D-56068 Koblenz, ally designed, and all were full dur- For a wine-centered evening, the tel. +49/261/13 32-0, fax 13 32-100, e- ing a recent visit. Many have kitchen- Winninger Weinstuben is a Koblenz mail [email protected], Web ettes. Waterbeds are available upon best bet. “Winninger” refers to the www.cityhotel-koblenz.de. request. It’s about 20 minutes on foot village of Winningen, just a short dis- Daily Rates: Singles €44, doubles €62. or five by car to the Altstadt. tance upstream on the Mosel, where Breakfast €8. Contact: Hotel Contel, Pastor- the restaurant’s partner vineyard is Rating: QUALITY 10/20, VALUE 14/20 Klein-Strasse 19, 56073 Koblenz, tel. located. The Weingut Rüdiger-Kröber +49/261/40650, fax 4065188, e-mail provides many of the restaurant’s Lorenz Hotel ’S [email protected], Web wines, including less common Mosel The new (2004) Lorenz EDITOR www.contel-koblenz-de reds. A range of Germany’s highest- HOICE Hotel is just plain cool. Indi- C Daily Rates: Singles and doubles quality wines (Qualitätswein mit vidually designed rooms are chic but €71-91. Breakfast €10. Prädikat) is available at various levels not overdone, and modern but not Rating: QUALITY 14/20, VALUE 15/20 (based on sugar content): Kabinett, sterile. Comfort is key. The black-and- white color scheme draws warmth Food Key Websites for the Traveler from the hardwood floors and wood- Small wine restaurants are ex- • www.gemut.com Gateway site for travelers to en furniture. There’s no elevator, and tremely popular in Koblenz and most Germanic Europe, including car rental, rail passes, steps wind up a tower-like staircase serve regional dishes like Sauerbraten hotel bookings, traveler feedback, travel tips, and past to three levels of rooms. Number 10 issues (free access to back issues for subscribers; see with potato dumplings, potato pan- log-on info on page 2). on the top floor is huge with three cakes served with bacon or smoked • www.viamichelin.com The Michelin database of broad windows with a view on one salmon and “heaven and earth,” a hotels and restaurants, plus great interactive trip side to the colorful Jesuitenplatz, and concoction of blood sausage and liv- planning tools on the other to the Jesuitengasse, a erwurst fried with slices of potato, • www.travelgearnow.com Guidebooks, maps, travel narrow alley that opens to the accessories, luggage, all at 10 percent off for subscribers apples, cabbage and onions. Not sur- • www.webflyer.com Informative frequent-flyer Rathaus. The café-restaurant-bar of prisingly, wine plays an important forums make this a must for air travelers the same name is on the ground floor. role in many dishes. • bahn.hafas.de/bin/query.exe/en German rail Contact: Lorenz Hotel, Jesuitenplatz website, with train schedules throughout Europe, as Weinhaus Hubertus well as Germany 1-3, 56068 Koblenz, tel. +49/261/ The Weinhaus Hubertus is one of • www.sbb.ch/index_e.htm Swiss and European rail 13336/0, fax 9143412, e-mail schedules [email protected], Web the oldest wine restaurants in town. • www.ski-europe.com Top Web resource for skiers www.lorenz-koblenz.de Built in 1689 and damaged only with much data on Alpine resorts € slightly during the war, the half-tim- • www.myswitzerland.com Website of Switzerland’s Daily Rates: Singles 75-85, doubles national tourist authority € ber building feels its age right down 102-117 to the antique furniture, parquet • www.germany-tourism.de Germany’s national tourist authority Ratings: QUALITY 15/20, VALUE 16/20 floors and medieval hunting scenes • www.austria.info/us Austria’s national tourist Hotel Contel lacquered on the walls. It’s cozy and authority comfortable, with sincere and friend- The Hotel Contel seems designed • www.historicgermany.com Website for an alliance ly service, a place where it’s easy to of historic German cities with the words “eclectic” and spend an entire evening. The local “whimsy” in mind. Murals cover the Gemütlichkeit 5 April 2005 www.gemut.com Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trocken- trendy architecture blends well with cheese with huckleberries, lamb ra- beerenauslese and Eiswein—the rare the old styles: Floor-to-ceiling glass gout with red wine, and a variety of wine made from grapes harvested fills Romanesque archways and opens pizza and pasta selections. Entrées after a freeze. While full bottles can in warm weather to extend seating range from €9-13 with plenty of low- cost €100 or more and are hard to find, onto the Jesuitenplatz beneath the er-priced options like cheese, sausage guests can try samplers of .05 liters façade of the town hall. It’s great for a and salad plates. A bit pricier are (€5.90 for a 1993 Eiswein, for example). light lunch or longer dinner, and imported steaks such as Chateaubri- The food is typical vintner’s fare of breakfast (a choice of French, Ameri- and. Seniors and children can also cold dishes—sausages, cheese platters, can, Italian or American) is extremely order half portions. smoked trout, pork in aspic—and popular and served to 6pm. An extensive variety of regional crepe-like flammkuchen served sweet A recent dinner began with lentil wines is available by the glass or bottle. with cinnamon and sugar or savory soup with coriander and grilled Each year, owners Marianne and Joe with blood sausage and onions. A shrimp (€5), the perfect prelude to Wilbert choose one wine for their house, € couple can dine for less than 15. spinach ricotta gnocchi with grilled and the “My Way” from Weingut The restaurant is open for dinner duck breast in orange tarragon sauce Michael Dorsch was fruity and sharp. € only, the perfect time to sit by a win- (€6.50). Save room for dessert. Tasters start at 1 for 0.1 liters. dow or at one of the outdoor trestle Contact: Café Restaurant, Jesuiten- The setting is a relaxed tavern, tables and watch the setting sun re- platz 1-3, 56068 Koblenz, tel. +49/ slightly busy upstairs, and quiet but flect its changing colors on Ehrenbre- 261/13 336 0, fax 9 143 412, e-mail somewhat remote in the 18th-century itstein Fortress. [email protected], Web wine cellar. If the weather’s good, sit Contact: Winninger Weinstuben, www.lorenz-koblenz.de outside on the Plan, one of Koblenz’s Rheinzollstrasse 2, D-56068 Koblenz, Ratings: QUALITY 15/20, VALUE 16/20 many airy squares. Service was often tel. +49/261/38707, Web www. distracted but always friendly: “I winninger-weinstuben.de Alt Coblenz forgot to give you a napkin? Then let Rating: QUALITY 14/20, VALUE 14/20 In front of the Alt Coblenz, a me give you two.” blackboard tempts passersby with a Contact: Alt Coblenz, Am Plan 13, D- Lorenz Café Restaurant list of regional and Italian dishes: 56068 Koblenz, tel. +49/261/16 06 56, Lorenz Café Restaurant typifies the potato soup with sausage or fish, fax 261/30 98 82, e-mail marianne. more modern Koblenz gastronomy chicken roulade stuffed with sheep’s [email protected], Web www.alt- scene with its upbeat, hip design and cheese, tomatoes and rosemary, pork coblenz.com. imaginative international cuisine. The hock with cabbage, baked goat Rating: QUALITY 13/20, VALUE 14/20

KREMSMÜNSTER reality of a living, breathing, small bey’s most intriguing space is a Continued from page 1 European town, and that has a cer- courtyard with five stone ponds di- tain charm of its own. At its center vided by arcades and wrought iron offers some surprisingly worthwhile are a number of interesting buildings, screens. Antlers from royal hunting sights, by far the most impressive of a small network of winding lanes, lodges line the enclosing walls and which is a massive Benedictine abbey. and the usual shops for a city its size. the focal point of each shallow pool is The town is not only a logical All, however, take a back seat to the a piece of water-spouting sculpture. overnight stop on the way to Vienna, Benedictine monastery, hovering During a visit in early December, the but it also works as a base from which over the town like a great citadel. ponds were thick with fat, ugly carp, brought there a few weeks before to explore the region. Auto daytrips The Abbey of Kremsmünster, are convenient to Steyr, Linz, Christmas to be held and fed a diet founded in 777, is not some pre- that will rid them of the clay taste Salzburg, Austria’s Lake District, the served relic, but hums with the com- wine country of the beautiful Wachau they acquire when feeding in the merce and activity of wine-making, a wild. In the traditional Austrian Valley, and charming Cesky Krumlov renowned grammar school, a restau- in the Czech Republic. Christmas meal, carp is served rant, shops, a Baroque library of some breaded, fried and in soup. 140,000 volumes, and an art collection Rail service is mostly via Linz, Locals like to refer to Kremsegg whose masterpiece is the Tassilo with Salzburg about two-hours away Castle as “half way between Mozart Chalice, an extraordinary example of and Vienna around two hours and 45 and Strauss,” in other words between goldsmithing from the 8th century. minutes. Linz is only 40 minutes, but the music cities of Salzburg and Vi- Munich, at three-and-a-half to four- The Monastery’s 18th-century enna. Its chief attraction is Musica and-a-half hours distant, is not in the observatory, or Mathematical Tower, Kremsmünster, a museum noted for daytrip category—at least by rail. which serves as a natural history its enormous collection of brass mu- While not endowed with the museum and research center, stands sical instruments, including a trum- quaint charm of a Rothenburg or a eight stories high and is said to be pet used by Louis Armstrong. Other Gruyères, Kremsmünster has the Europe’s first “skyscraper.” The Ab- rooms are devoted to Franz Schubert,

Gemütlichkeit 6 April 2005 www.gemut.com DEAR SUBSCRIBER Continued from page 2 TRAVEL QUICKIES and Austrian national tourist orga- ■ The Future of Swiss Airlines: Deut- event, called “Change in Perspective,” nizations require members to meet sche Lufthansa AG and Swiss Interna- was designed to show how gardens defined standards. Possibly the tional Airlines Ltd. have announced and urban development can promote standard for promotion via the plans to merge services. As a result, a change in socio-economic and envi- Web should be higher than for the 80-aircraft Swiss fleet will be inte- ronmental thinking. Contact mere membership. grated into Lufthansa’s fleet of 377 www.buga2005.de. My hope is that the person who planes. Expected benefits for travelers ■ New Rules for Flight Delays: You wrote the e-mail that I and thou- include more destinations, better con- could be entitled to considerable fi- sands of others received has never nections, joint frequent-flyer pro- nancial compensation next time your visited the Forsthaus Graseck, and grams, and mutual lounge access. flight is delayed in Europe. As of Feb- the touting of this substandard Combined flight schedules should be ruary, new European Commission hotel is an anomaly. The fact that available by October, with a full inte- rules require airlines that cancel flights such a hotel is being promoted on gration by 2007. with less than two week’s notice to the Web is not news. That it is be- ■ Architecture in Berlin: Berlin Tour- pay passengers a refund, plus an ad- ing offered by a reputable Europe- ism Marketing has proclaimed 2005 ditional €250 to 600, depending on an tourist agency, however, raises “The Year of Architecture,” with the length of the flight. The rules also troubling credibility issues. Caveat themed walking tours of the city’s clas- require meals, phone calls, accommo- emptor and depend on Gemütlich- sic and contemporary structures. Look dations, and transportation in certain keit. —RHB for the brochure, “Architecture in Ber- situations. € KREMSMÜNSTER lin,” ( 1.50) in the tourist information ■ Direct Flights to Germany: Continued from page 6 centers at Europa Platz, Alexander Several carriers are introducing new, Platz, or Brandenburg Gate. Contact who often visited the Monastery. direct flights to Germany this spring: www.berlin-tourist-information.com Displayed are autographed scores Lufthansa: Washington, DC/Munich, for guided tour information. plus other memorabilia. The master’s May 2. LTU: New York to Düsseldorf, ■ work can be heard in the Schubert National Garden Show: Germa- May 2. Delta: JFK to Berlin, May 3 Listening Room. ny’s bi-annual Bundesgartenshau United: Chicago to Munich, June 7. An excursion not to be missed in (BUGA) takes place April 29 to Octo- Continental: Newark to Hamburg, the weeks prior to Christmas is to the ber 9 on the grounds of Munich’s June 9, and Newark to Berlin, July 2. nearby pilgrimage hamlet of Christ- former airport in Rhiem. This year’s For more info: 800-521-6722. kindl, where you’ll find a lovely little € church and a busy post office. It is warmth and unflagging enthusiasm price from 48 to 62 per night for here that Austrian children send so characteristic of the best small stays of six nights or longer. Done in their Christmas letters, and all are hoteliers. a traditional style with wood answered by the Christkindl post Passing through Schlair’s recep- trimmed furniture, herringbone hard- office. You may wish to mail a card tion area early one evening last De- wood floors, the accommodations from here as the stamps and post- cember, Maria grabbed a couple of come with satellite TV and direct dial mark are somewhat prized. There is American guests and took them to a phone. The small kitchens are suit- also a wonderfully intricate, ‘Rube nearby Weihnachtspünsch booth ably equipped for light meals. Goldberg’-style, mechanical Nativity where, for an hour they stood at a The main building’s public rooms scene. Completed just before the war, high table in the cold, drinking hot feature vaulted ceilings, tiled floors, it is the work of a single local hobby- red wine, and being introduced to heavy wood beams, an inviting salon ist who took some 40 years to build friendly locals. This informal, warm- with oversize leather furniture, a it—in his living room. hearted style puts guests at ease and cozy bar with blazing hearth, and wireless Internet access. Hotel Schlair sets the tone at Schlair. Sharing the building is the Schlair In evaluating hotels, Gemütlichkeit The hotel consists of an attractive, well-maintained Baroque-style main family bakery, a center of village is partial to family-run places, where social life for nearly 200 years. Hotel the owners are welcoming, avail- building in the village center and a ’S guesthouse, Zur Alten Mühle (the guests have the good fortune to be able, and eager to assist their served breakfast here, where the EDITOR Old Mill), a few blocks away, literally guests. Though the Schlair’s HOICE C in the shadow of the Abbey. Built in wondrous pastries affirm Austria’s physical assets—guest and pub- lic reputation for baked goods. rooms—are more than satisfactory, it the 13th century, the guesthouse is is the duo of owners-managers, Mar- the town’s oldest structure and con- The hotel’s “business” rooms have ia and Erik Kux-Schlair that moves tains a handful of vacation apart- been remodeled in a bright, modern this hotel into the “special” category. ments that can accommodate from style with recessed lighting and such The couple demonstrates the natural two to six persons. They range in amenities as cable TV with English

Gemütlichkeit 7 April 2005 www.gemut.com channels and high-speed Internet con- quire two or more persons traveling nections. At €84 double, including Glacier Express together. Additional travel days are breakfast, they are an excellent value. available. The first-class versions of Switzerland is a country celebrated for The value-minded traveler seek- these two passes are $221 and $213, its trains, and its most famous rail route is ing solid accommodations and hospi- respectively. Swiss Passes are accept- the Glacier Express between St. Mortiz tality in an engaging, well-located ed for travel on the Glacier Express— and Zermatt. “Express” may be not be town will find all in Kremsmünster but a seat reservation ($18) is required. and its hotel Schlair. quite the right word, since the train aver- ages less than 19 mph over its mountain- • First or Second Class: Air-condi- Daily Rates: Singles €50-59. Doubles ous, 7.5 hour, 291-bridge, roller-coaster tioned, panorama viewing cars are first- €72-84. Apartments €48-62, plus route. Trains runs year-round. class only. Regular first-class cars and cleaning fee. Optional breakfast for second-class cars are not air-condi- € First-class cars feature high, wide, apartment guests, 7.5 per person. tioned, though windows can be Contact: panoramic windows, and trains some- Hotel Schlair-Gästehaus opened. Seating in panorama cars and times make full circles as they spiral “Zur Alten Mühle”, A-4550 second-class cars is club-style, pairs up the precipitous slopes. Wine glass- Kremsmünster, Franz-Hönig-Str. 16, facing, with a small table between. Reg- es even have a tilted base to keep from tel. +43/7583/5258, e-mail ular first-class configuration is two seats spilling on the steep gradients. Lunch [email protected], Web facing on one side of the aisle and pairs in the Edwardian dining car is popu- www.hotelschlair.at facing on the opposite side. Rating: QUALITY 14/20, VALUE 17/20 lar and, at CHF 26 to 38 without bev- erages, not inexpensive. • An Alternative: The route of the Kremsmünster Info Glacier Express—St. Moritz/Davos– Schloss Kremsegg, Kremsegger As many as five daily trains each way Chur–Disentis–Andermatt–Brig–Zer- Strasse 59, A-4550 Kremsmünster, tel. in summer are officially tagged with matt, or the reverse—is served by oth- +43/7583/52 470, e-mail the “Glacier Express” title, and they er trains that require no seat reserva- [email protected], Web attract about 250,000 riders annually. tion and will not be nearly as full. www.schloss-kremsegg.at/museum For those who plan to be in that num- Benediktinerstift Kremsmünster, ber, here are a few suggestions: • Lunch on Board: Reserve well in Burgfried 1, A-4550 Kremsmünster, advance of travel through Catering • Tickets: You can buy a one-way, tel. +43/7583/5275-151, e-mail Company Elvetino in Chur, tel. +41/ second-class ticket for $102 (first-class [email protected], Web 81/252 1425, fax 250 0151, e-mail is $164), plus a mandatory charge for a www.stift-kremsmuenster.at [email protected]. seat reservation of up to $18, but a Christkindl website: better deal is either the Swiss Saver- • The Final Word: The best source of www.pfarre-christkindl.at pass, good for four consecutive days of information about the Glacier Express unlimited, second-class travel through- is found at www.glacierexpress.ch, or Readers’ Forum out the country for $145, or the Swiss by calling +41/27/927 7777 in Brig, or Saver Flexipass for $141, which offers +41/812/886 100 in Chur. Southwest Germany Trip unlimited travel on any three days in a • Purchase Tickets, Rail Passes in the Wanted to share with you a few one-month period. Saver passes re- U.S.: 800-521-6722, press option 3. notes on our recent “Fasnet” trip to southwest Germany: We took your ad- vice and started the trip with the Hotel trout) dinner. We learned the Off fami- ication to locally grown food prod- Rebenhof by Baden-Baden. Beautiful, ly are fourth-generation hoteliers. ucts, etc. We enjoyed a wonderful bright, large room with balcony over- We enjoyed the pre-Lenten carni- meal with all the bells and whistles— € looking the vineyards. Mr. Ziegler re- val experience very much and re- about 65 each—definitely the membered you by name. The food was turned for the fourth time to Bad “splurge dinner” of the trip. I would outstanding, even if the dining room was Waldsee in Oberschwaben for the describe the hotel as one of the old a little formal in its starkness. traditional Schwäbisch-Alemannisch grand hotels in a spa town—rooms with double doors from the hallway, Over a snowy Black Forest High- costumes, masks, parades, music, and fun. We’ve always stayed at the a lobby like a library, and excellent road with lunch in Rottweil to Meers- but unobtrusive service. burg. Had the experience of being the Grüner Baum, directly on the only guests our first night in Seehotel Rathaus Platz, which is always a cen- In short, a very comfortable two Off as they opened up after a month ter of activity. Small, family-run with weeks. All hotels booked via e-mail, vacation. Great location—right on the ideas on being trendy. Wish they with research based on Gemütlichkeit Bodensee at the end of the street. They would just leave it as it is! newsletters, Michelin and Aral guides, offer certified Feng-Shui rooms. We On a previous trip, I had watched as well as local tourist office mailings. enjoyed the compact lake-view room a TV interview with the owner of Thanks for your always interesting very much. The second night when a Hotel Victoria in Bad Mergentheim. newsletter and personal observations. few other guest showed up we had a Being a dedicated “foodie,” I made KURT VINCENT fine “Felchen” (explained as Bodensee reservations based on the hotel’s ded- NASSAU, NEW YORK

Gemütlichkeit 8 April 2005