9783667110695 Leseprobe59a

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9783667110695 Leseprobe59a NORDITALIEN • NORTHERN ITALY 5 VORWORT „Lass uns doch mal über die Dolomiten bis runter nach Venedig fahren!“ – Für alle Soulful Driver ist das ein emotionaler Schlüs- selsatz, bei dem sofort alle Synapsen pure Freude funken. Da entstehen Bilder im Kopf, die beinahe verbotene Wildheit mit sinnlicher Schönheit verbinden. Der Norden Italiens lebt von einer mitreißenden Emotionalität und scharfen Gegensätzen, die in den Alpen so ihresgleichen suchen. Man sieht sich auf der Stelle im verbissenen Duell mit den Serpentinen des Stilfser Jochs – und gleich darauf in der weiten, überhitzten Ebene hin- unter zum Mittelmeer ausrollen. Zufrieden. Kurvensatt. Positiv geladen. Wir können davon nicht genug bekommen. Und des- halb: „Lass uns doch mal ...“ — “Let’s drive over the Dolomites and down to Venice!” For all “Soulful Drivers”, this is an emotional key phrase which im- mediately sets off fireworks of pure joy in every synapse. Images are created in the mind that blend almost forbidden wilderness with sensual beauty. The north of Italy lives from intoxicating emotions and sharp contrasts that are unparal- leled in the Alps. One moment you find yourself in an intense duel with the switchbacks of the Stelvio Pass – and the next minute you’re cruising over the wide, simmering plains down to the Mediterranean. Happy. Curve-satiated. Positively charged. We simply can’t get enough of it. And so: “Let’s drive...” SELLAJOCH 30 ÖSTERREICH ÖSTERREICH 31 VALPAROLAPASS NORDITALIEN • NORTHERN ITALY 45 PONTE DI LEGNO STERZING GAVIAPASS (2652 M) STILFSER JOCH (2757 M) TIMMELSJOCH (2474 M) JAUFENPASS (2094 M) 260 KM • 7 STUNDEN // 162 MILES • 7 HOURS Lago di Como. Ein glänzendes Boot auf schwarzem Wasser am Steg. Menschen plaudern, wirbeln, flirten. Strahlende Damen in Sommerkleidern lassen sich von Herren über die chromglänzende Reling helfen. Pin- guine bringen Prosecco auf Tabletts, Gläser klirren, dann geht es über den Steg zur Villa unter Zypressen, Pinien und Palmen. Auf Eichenbohlen klackernde Absätze. — Lago di Como. A glistening boat on dark water moored at the pier. People chat, mingle, flirt. Radiant ladies in summer dresses accept men’s help to climb over the gleaming chrome railing. Butlers in black ties offer Prosecco on trays, glasses clink. Then it’s off across the pier to the villa nestled amongst cypresses, pines GAVIAPASS and palms. Heels click on oak planks. GAVIAPASS 52 NORDITALIEN • NORTHERN ITALY STILFSERJOCH Und dann Ruhe. Sie haben mich einfach Suddenly it’s quiet. I’ve obviously been for- vergessen. Nur das kristallgrüne Wasser gotten. Left alone with the translucent jade des Sees, auf dem die Abendsonne jeder ein- of the lake; the evening sun leaves a salmon- zelnen Welle einen orangefarbenen Saum coloured glow on the foamy crest of each auflackiert, gluckert an den polierten Ma- wave. They slosh against the polished ma- hagoni-Bordwänden des Boots. Mit durch- hogany of the boat. With stiff backs and gedrücktem Rücken und steifem Frack collars, the small black-and-white colony of watscheln jetzt auch die Pinguine davon, waiters disappears up the stairs to the vil- mit pumpenden Rockschößen und nicken- la, chattering and waddling like penguins den Kopfbewegungen verschwindet das with coattails flapping and heads bobbing. kleine, schwarz-weiße Trüppchen schnat- I let out a slow breath, fall back into the ternd auf den Stufen zur Villa. thick cushions and stare into the deep blue sky. The sun drops behind the mountains, Ich atme aus, lasse mich nach hinten in die black and scissor-ridged with a crown of dicken Polsterkissen fallen und starre in rays; the steep flanks cloaked in a dark- einen dunkelblauen Himmel. Die Sonne green cape, its hem dipping into the lake. verschwindet hinter den Bergen, schwarze Jazz music and the aroma of grilled fish Zacken-Scherenschnitte mit Strahlenkranz, waft over the water, only now I feel the eine dunkelgrüne Ahnung von in den See gentle rocking of the boat. Being in the mo- stürzenden Wäldern am Steilhang. Jazz- ment. Alone. Timidly, my soul grows roots, musik und der Duft nach gegrilltem Fisch which slowly sink to the lake floor, anchor- schweben übers Wasser, jetzt erst spüre ich ing me there in time and space. I sense the die leichten Bewegungen des Boots. Einfach lake, I sense the mountains. Up here in nur da sein. Allein sein. Zaghaft lässt mei- northern Italy, the Po basin pushes against ne Seele Wurzeln sprießen, die sich lang- the Alps like an insistent admirer, sweaty sam wie Ankertaue in den Seeboden graben and loud, demanding favour. But the cool und mich wieder in Raum und Zeit fixieren. realm of the mountains refuses such an Ich spüre den See. Ich spüre die Berge. Hier advance and sends relentless Breva winds oben drängt sich die oberitalienische Tief- over the lake as a bulwark against the sap- HOTEL ebene wie ein aufdringlicher Verehrer ge- ping sultriness of the south. Music, laugh- gen die Alpen, verlangt schwitzend und ing and the honking of horns penetrate BERGHOTEL FRANZENSHÖHE lärmend Einlass, aber das kühle Reich der my reverie. I rest my feet against the side STILFSERJOCHSTR. 38 39020 TRAFOI, STELVIO (BZ), TRAFOI, Berge verweigert sich dem Ansturm und of the little cabin, clasp my hands behind TEL: +39 0473 611768 schickt unerbittliche Breva-Fallwinde als my head and decide to stay put for a while. WWW.FRANZENSHOEHE.COM Bollwerk gegen die dumpf brütende Schwü- ................................................................... To feel the gentle rocking of the boat and le des Südens über den Lago. Aus der Stadt watch the lights flicker to life over on the dringt Musik, Lachen und das Hupen von opposite shore. Autos herüber. Ich stemme die Füße gegen die Wand der kleinen Kajüte, verschränke Suddenly, an image becomes a vision, over- meine Arme hinter dem Kopf und beschließe whelming everything, propelling me up- hier nicht mehr so schnell aufzustehen. wards: It’s been far too long since I hurtled Einfach nur das sanfte Schaukeln des Boots over the Stelvio Pass. I miss the Gavia Pass. spüren und zusehen, wie drüben am ande- The rugged peaks of the Dolomites. The Me- ren Ufer die Lichter angehen. Auf einmal diterranean climate of Merano, Bolzano, wird ein Bild zur Vision, überflutet alles Brixen. And Veneto is but a fuzzy memory und zieht mich hoch: Ich bin viel zu lange that I yearn to bring back into focus. What nicht mehr übers Stilfser Joch getobt. Der am I doing here? Dolce Vita in Piedmont, Gaviapass fehlt mir. Die kernigen Felstür- listless boredom as cool and tart as a glass me der Dolomiten. Das mediterrane Klima of spritz. I want the mountains, I want to von Meran, Bozen, Brixen. Und das Vene- hit the road. Slowly, a smile spreads over to ist sowieso nur eine undeutliche Erin- my face, I take one last deep inhalation of nerung die ich allzu gerne scharf stellen the mystical beauty of this lyrical universe, STILFSERJOCH NORDITALIEN • NORTHERN ITALY 65 würde. Was tue ich hier? Dolce Vita im I store the image in my mind like a cloy- Piemont, Zeitlos-Langeweile so kühl und ing perfume and push the cork firmly on bitter wie ein Glas Sprizz. Ich will in die the flagon of memories. Who knows when Berge, ich will unterwegs sein. Langsam it might be necessary for survival to inhale stiehlt sich ein leuchtendes Lächeln in mei- the dark beauty of this moment once again. ne Mundwinkel, ein letztes Mal sauge ich But right now – action! die anderweltige Schönheit dieses lyrischen Universums tief ein, dann speichert mein I run along the pier, along the gravel path Geist das Bild wie ein schweres Parfüm und and up the stairs into my room. After sever- drückt einen Korken auf den Flakon der Er- al minutes I’ve slung my duffel bag over my innerung. Wer weiß, wann es überlebens- shoulder and I’m out in the parking lot. The notwendig sein könnte, wieder an der de- car door opens with a clack, I don’t both- pressiven Schönheit dieses Moments zu er stowing my luggage to make it speed- schnuppern. Aber jetzt – Action! safe for the first leg through the valleys to the east; the passenger seat has to do. Ig- Ich laufe über den Steg, den Kiesweg ent- nition key in, the growling roar of the en- lang, Treppen hinauf ins Zimmer. Nach we- gine vibrates through every bone, the stag- nigen Minuten habe ich meinen Seesack nant blood in my veins flows faster and über der Schulter und bin vorne am Park- hotter. I drive through the night, along the platz. Klackend öffnet sich eine Autotür, für lake shore and into Veltellina. Past Sondrio die erste Etappe durch die Täler nach Os- to Tirano. Two hours after setting off from ten verzichte ich darauf, das Gepäck idealli- Lake Como I’m standing next to the car in niensicher zu verstauen – der Beifahrersitz the mountains, the heated-up engine clicks muss reichen. Zündschlüssel, hartes Motor- and ticks quietly. The interior lights are off, bellen grieselt durch alle Knochen, lässt das leaving only the spectacular ribbon of the stockende Blut schlagartig schneller und Milky Way in the inky night sky. “Good heißer fließen. Ich fahre durch die Nacht. drive,” I say to myself, smiling and ex- Am Seeufer entlang, dann ins Veltlin. Vor- hausted. “Good drive and good decision.” bei an Sondrio, bis Tirano. Zwei Stunden The next morning, the mountains loom STILFSERJOCH nach dem Start am Comer See stehe ich ne- large and brutal, almost within reach. The ben dem Auto in den Bergen, der heißgefah- air is crystal clear. My racing machine and rene Wagen knackt und tickert leise. Seine I fly to Ponte di Legno and via the SP 29 Innenbeleuchtung erlischt, übrig bleibt nur to the Gavia Pass.
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