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MAGAZINE MINUTE Events, tips and walking routes to help you make the most of your time on Scilly

SHHH: IT’S A SECRET… Staff and islanders share the beaches, restaurants, pubs and views that only locals know

THE ONBOARD MAGAZINE FOR SKYBUS AND PASSENGERS – ISSUE 02 LIVE THE ISLAND LIFE

It’s that first glimpse of white sands from above. Exploring the coastline with a few tips from the locals. Breathing in lungfuls of sea air. Wild swimming with seals. Heading to a beach at sunset and cooking freshly caught crab on coals. When we connect you to the , you’ll connect with the rhythm of island life.

#TRAVELLOCAL WWW.ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK 24 10

WELCOME TO S MAGAZINE

Welcome to S Magazine; we hope you’ll find it interesting, useful and fun. Don’t worry if you don’t have time to read 32 it all today – it’s yours to keep, free of charge. In fact, we’ve tried to make this magazine as helpful as possible during your time on Scilly. It’s full of ideas for things to do, places to visit and food to try – as well as important information like an events listing for the islands, boat timetables, and a list of days you can walk between and Tresco. Contents issue 02 There’s also a children’s activity section in the middle, in case you need to keep them occupied on one of the islands’ (rare) rainy days. 06-07 Day trips 18-19 Getting around 28–29 Scilly recipe Top things to do and by boat Local recipes straight kid’S coRneR see on the islands A guide to island hopping from the islands As we were bringing the information together, one thing 08-09 Gardeners' World 20 A little slice 30 5 minutes with… struck us very clearly: almost any time of year is a good time The horticultural delights of Scilly Behind the scenes to visit the Isles of Scilly. Beyond the long, summer days by of the islands Holiday mementos of Scillonian III to last a lifetime the sea, there are spring and autumn walks, bird migrations, 10 Take to the water 31 A birder’s paradise CUT oUT And MAKE A MAGAZINE and sporting and cultural events all year round. In fact, it’s Get active in, on and 22 Planes, boats Will Wagstaff, Ornithologist always a magical place (and remember: the sea is warmer under the water and trains shares his birding tips Our very own Ken SKYBuS in October than it is in June). 12-13 Travel like a local Simpson shares stories 32–33 What's on Isles of Scilly Steamship Company Limited, Steamship Our staff share their about his life on Scilly Scilly 2016 House, Quay Street, TR18 4BZ knowledge and insider tips A jam packed calendar S Magazine is produced by Isles of Scilly Steamship Whether you’re on holiday, a day-tripper, visiting on business 24-25 The greatest of island events Group inhouse communications team. or an islander returning home, we hope you’ll savour every 14 Exploring on show on Scilly T +44 (0) 1736 334220 two feet and two wheels Spectacular Scilly 34 10 rainy day ideas [email protected] minute on the islands. Discover Scilly under star gazing Great ways to make the Get Colouring Editor | Sharon Sandercock your own steam most of your time on Copywriter | Radix Communications Design | Foundry Hill 26 Local food those rare rainy days Thank you, once again, for travelling with us. We hope you 16 Walking on water from Scilly Thanks to all those who have contributed images for this publication. enjoy the crossing – and this magazine – and if there’s any Walk between two islands Our pick of the islands 35 It’s about the at the extraordinary low local produce simple things in life Opinions expressed are the authors and not necessarily way our team can help you, please ask. those of the company. Whilst every effort is made to tides event The magic of Scilly ensure total accuracy Isles of Scilly Steamship Group 27 A true taste cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions within this magazine. Isles of Scilly Travel 17 A picture of the past of island life And don't forget our 100 years of Scillonian Bryher’s very own kid's pull out section When you have finished with this magazine please pass it on or recycle it. photography pop-up Crab Shack in the centre SCilLY WoRD SEARCH

04 – S MAGAZINE Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 02 – 05 5 Perfect day trips to Scilly On Scillonian

Depending on the tides, a day trip on Scillonian III gives you around four glorious hours on the Isles of Scilly. You’ll be amazed how many ways you can spend the time…

For many passengers, the best part of a day trip on Scillonian III are the crossings themselves: a leisurely sail to and from St. Mary’s, taking in West Cornwall’s famous 1 2 3 4 5 landmarks from an unusual Trip to Tresco A scenic stroll Beach afternoon Island tour Get prehistoric perspective, before looking There is no need to stay on St. Mary’s, Head west up the hill from St. Mary’s quay, If the weather’s fine, there’s a lot to be St. Mary’s is 11 miles around and there People have lived on Scilly for thousands out for dolphins, sea birds there’s ample time to take an onward and you’ll quickly find yourself on a circular, said for spending your afternoon on the is so much outside of to of years. A visit to the Bronze Age and and basking sharks. boat to see the plants at Tresco coastal walk around the 16th century kind of white sand beach you simply explore. Hire bicycles for some light Iron Age settlements at Halangy Village Abbey Gardens. Depending on the battlements of the Garrison. From up high wouldn’t find at home – it’s easy to forget exercise or a golf buggy if you fancy and Bant’s Carn can give you a sense of But if you plan well, you can tides, you’ll either land at on the headland amongst the gorse, you you’re on a day trip. There are plenty of resting your legs. Whichever method wonder – with time to stop by Juliet’s or Carn Near. Look for the chalk can see the whole Scilly archipelago spread popular beaches within a few minutes’ you choose there’ll be lots of time to Garden restaurant on the way back, be fairly adventurous in your boards on the quay, or in Hugh out around you – one of the islands’ most walk of the quay – or take a short taxi ride go all the way round the coast – or for one of the best views on the island… time on the islands. Town, to see the trips on offer. breathtaking and expansive views. to find somewhere completely deserted. choose the 75-minute circular bus tour. with a crab sandwich to match.

On Skybus

With flights from Land’s End Airport as short as 15 minutes, Skybus is the fastest way to Scilly. With a little imagination, that extra time opens up a whole world of possibilities for a memorable day trip…

Flying with Skybus might only take a few minutes, but 1 Relax on Bryher 2 Buzza Tower 3 The Museum 4 Go island hopping 5 Get active we like to think you start to experience Scilly before you’ve If you’ve read Michael Morpurgo’s moving Take a leisurely walk East from Hugh Town, The Isles of Scilly Museum is in Hugh Nothing could be easier than catching Not everyone can say they’ve played even taken off from Land’s End. children’s story 'Why the Whales Came', and climb Buzza Tower for the dramatic view Town. It’s packed with curiosities and a boat from St. Mary’s to one of the Britain’s most south-westerly golf the chance to explore its setting – the over the Garrison to St. Agnes. If you keep artefacts from the islands as well as finds off-islands; even more than one, if you’re course – but while you’re on St. Mary’s, island of Bryher – is too good to miss. going, you can continue around the headland from shipwrecks, a photographic record, quick. That gives you a chance to see you’ve plenty of time to do just that. And with up to eight hours Even if you don't know the book, the to Peninnis Lighthouse, before stopping in an oral archive of island voices and stuffed some of Scilly’s lesser-known sights Or if golf doesn’t appeal, then you’ll on Scilly, a day trip is just seclusion, glass-like water and gentle Old Town for something delicious to eat – birds. There’s always a surprise waiting – like the two Tudor forts and the never find clearer waters to swim in that: a full day with all the lapping tide make Scilly's smallest inhabited and maybe paying a visit to the peaceful – one reason our team voted it their Seventeenth Century Cromwell's – or a more scenic place to explore island a magical place to spend your day. churchyard where Harold Wilson is buried. favourite place to spend a rainy day. Castle on Tresco. on horseback. islands at your disposal.

06 – S MAGAZINE Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 02 – 07 Gardeners’ World

Because of the unique climate, Scilly is home to all manner of unusual plants – and a paradise for gardening enthusiasts. Mike Nelhams, Head Gardener at Tresco Abbey Garden, shares some of the islands’ horticultural highlights…

© Tresco Island

terrace of the Garden, and grow easily Where should we look for Mike in full sun and coastal breeze. They something spectacular and unusual? Nelhams flower from around April to July. Scilly The “Hottentot Fig”, or Carprobotus is also known for farmed flowers. Edulis, carpets large areas of Head Gardener, heathland and coastal edges. Tresco Abbey Garden Which stands out for you? The Gladiolus Byzantine, but it’s not When is the best time to see the widest There are more than readily farmed now. You will probably variety of plants and flowers on Scilly? 20,000 plants at only see them spasmodically, as rogue Come in May and June, and you will plants growing in fields across the islands. not be disappointed. Tresco Abbey Garden. Do you have a soft spot for any Finally, if we wanted to capture Do you have a favourite? of Scilly’s wild plants and flowers? the islands’ unique landscape in one I have a sneaking regard for the group Agapanthus comes from South Africa, photograph, where should we go? that include the Protea, from South Africa. but has naturalised across the islands. “Oliver’s Battery”, near the southern tip Protea Cynaroides, the “King Protea”, They grow readily in the walls and of Tresco – or perhaps the 4th tee of the which has the largest flower of the group, sand dunes, and make a great show islands’ golf course on St. Mary’s. Both is particularly fine. They reside on the top in July and August. are very spectacular, with sweeping views.

08 – S MAGAZINE Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 02 – 09

to PrEfer

drY lAnd? tAKE thE WATER If you’re not keen to get your feet wet, don’t worry; Scilly has plenty If You’RE not ContEnt BenEAth tHE WAvEs of ways to get active without looKing AT ScillY’S CrYStAl braving the water. Scilly’s clear, shallow waters are teeming cleAr wAteRS, tHE isLAndS with sea life, and the local reefs and Your own ADvEnTurE hAvE plenTy of WAYs historic shipwrecks are among the best diving and snorkelling sites in the Adventure Scilly offers guided trail foR You to get aCTivE – UK – so there’s always something to see. running, or there are yoga retreats The islands’ dive school, on St. Martin’s, on St. Martin’s if that sounds too on, in AnD undER ThE seA. offers beginner's courses, boat charters, much like hard work. and the chance to snorkel with seals. AfloAt and UnDer SAIl WilD swimming FUll swinG Ahead

There’s no better place to learn to sail. If you’re feeling intrepid – and you’re Meanwhile, a round at the Isles The Isles of Scilly Sailing Centre, on unafraid of the cold – look out for of Scilly Golf Club will give you Porthmellon Beach, offers taster sessions organised events like September’s Scilly the unusual claim to fame of and tuition in the islands’ sheltered bays. Swim Challenge, or talk to Adventure having played ’s most If you’re feeling more adventurous, there Scilly about their local guidance, open south-westerly course (try not are windsurf boards, stand-up paddle water coaching, and all-important safety to let panoramic island views boards – even kayaks with a glass peephole boat. Swimming to a neighbouring island distract you from your swing). to let you watch the sea life below. without proper support is dangerous.

10 – S MAGAZINE Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 02 – 07 Travel The Isles of Scilly Polreath Café on The crafty activities I love all the beaches Museum on St. Mary’s St. Martin’s offers at Phoenix Studios on St. Martin’s, because is interesting, with lots a fabulous welcome, on St. Mary’s have they’re always sandy… like a of maritime history. and home-cooked food. something for all ages. and the sun always shines! local

We’ve been travelling to Sue Lodey, Stuart Brint, Paula Smith, Chris Pearson, Scilly for almost a hundred years, Isles of Scilly Operations Manager, Accounts, Manager, so we’ve learned a thing or two. Travel Centre Land’s End Airport Isles of Scilly Travel Land’s End Airport

Which is your favourite beach? Which is your favourite beach? Which is your favourite beach? Which is your favourite beach? Bay. It’s so quiet and unspoilt, Appletree Bay on Tresco. It’s a Bar Point on St. Mary’s has white sand, I love all the beaches on St. Martin’s, We asked some of our team you’d never know it’s only a short taxi wonderful place to have an evening and lovely views over to the other islands. because they’re always sandy… ride from the travel centre. barbeque and watch the sunset. and the sun always shines! members to share their insider Where do you go for a quick bite? Where do you go for a quick bite? The terraced garden at Juliet’s, tips on places the locals go. Dibble & Grub, near Porthcressa just above . beach: casual dining, and great food. But remember: keep them …And for a romantic dinner date? Star Castle if I’m on St. Mary’s; on to yourself… Tresco, Ruin Beach Café is spectacular. How would you amaze the children? Swimming with seals on St. Martin’s, Where do you go for a quick bite? or something simple like rockpooling Polreath Café on St. Martin’s offers at Porthloo. a fabulous welcome, and home-cooked food. It’s great value for money, too. Where do you go for a quick bite?

…And for a romantic dinner date? The Tolman Café, near Old Town

Hell Bay Hotel, on Bryher, has been on St. Mary’s.

voted the South West’s best small hotel. …And for a romantic dinner date? How to spend a rainy day? How would you amaze the children? Tregarthen’s Hotel; the atmosphere The Isles of Scilly Museum on St. Mary’s You can’t fail to impress the kids with is perfect. is interesting, with lots of maritime history. a trip to see puffins and seals. How would you amaze the children? Where’s the best view? If it’s a rainy day? Where’s a good place to bag a bargain? The nature trail on I might be biased, but the view from The crafty activities at Phoenix Studios 49 Degrees on St. Mary’s. St. Mary’s is magical. our Skybus aircraft is breath-taking. on St. Mary’s have something for all ages. You can see for miles! Where’s the best view? Where’s a good place to bag a bargain? Where’s the best view? The 360-degree panorama from King Looking out over Tresco and Bryher Which pub has the best atmosphere? The sale rale at Seasalt is often well Charles Castle on Tresco is amazing. from Innisidgen, at the north-east tip The Mermaid, by St. Mary’s Quay, has worth a look. of St. Mary’s. everything you’d want in a traditional Which pub has the best atmosphere? Which pub has the best atmosphere? Scillonian pub – a great atmosphere, I’ve had too many great nights at the The Atlantic, overlooking Which pub has the best atmosphere? good food… and lots of singing! Mermaid Inn… but don’t tell everyone! St. Mary’s harbour. Definitely the Turk’s Head on St. Agnes.

12 – S MAGAZINE Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 02 – 13 EXPLORING ON TWO Walk FEET & TWO WHEELS together

There’s nothing better than discovering Scilly under If you’d like to explore Scilly with others look out for Visit Isles of Scilly’s your own steam. We asked three local experts to ever-popular ‘Walk Scilly’ events. share their favourite walking and cycling routes. There are 27 walks across all the islands – including ghost, stargazing, sunrise and wildlife walks. The next Walk Scilly weekend is 13th-17th October 2016. Wildlife walk: Peninnis Lighthouse can be a good walk at any time of year. In spring and autumn you’ll Lighthouse, St. Mary’s see migrant birds, and there are splendid Look out for wildlife along the way: views back to Hugh Town on one side, gannets and migrant birds, as well Will Wagstaff, Ornithologist Old Town on the other, and the other as terns and auks in the summer and the and author, Island Wildlife Tours islands to the South West. It’s a good, occasional egret and heron later in the year. half-day stroll: there are a few rough If it’s a flat calm day, look at the sea halfway As a naturalist, my main interest is the areas, but the walking is on good paths across to St. Agnes and ; you may birds I see on the islands; every time I go most of the way. be lucky enough to see a harbour porpoise. out, there’s the chance of something new. I once found a northern waterthrush, all The walk starts from the eastern end The walk then continues around to the way from North America, at Porth of Porthcressa beach in Hugh Town, Old Town, where you can pick up the Killier beach on St. Agnes, and two hoopoe and wanders up through the small nature trails… or if you’ve in one field on the Garrison, just a few allotments until it becomes a coastal walked far enough, simply head to the minutes from my home. Penninis path out to the lighthouse. cafés and pub. The choice is yours.

Historic walk: Chapel Perpitch, the bay on your right about half of an early medieval chapel. If it’s a clear way up, is a great place for seeing seals. day, you can see the mainland from here. Down, St. Martin’s Retrace your steps and turn right at the junction to follow the path parallel with Katharine Sawyer, archaeologist, the north coast, which has lovely views Scilly Walks of St. Martin’s beaches. One of my favourite walks is from Just past a small agricultural outbuilding, did you know? Higher Town Quay on St. Martin’s past turn left through a gap in the field wall Par Beach, up to Chapel Down and then Turn right at the top, and carry on to and follow the path round the outside of back across the fields to Higher Town. the red and white striped Daymark, which the field. Cross two further fields and pick 2017 is closer than you think! Having left the Quay, turn right to follow was built in the 1680s as a navigation up the concrete path that will lead you the bay. Along the path you’ll pass Adam’s marker for shipping. Nearby you can see into Higher Town where you will find Fish and Chips and the St. Martin’s the ruined Napoleonic War signal station the North Farm Gallery and a shoemaker, Vineyard. At the end of the beach, the and, to the north of the Daymark, you as well as places to eat at the Bakery path turns to the left and goes uphill; may be able to pick out the wall footings and Polreath Café.

Cycle route: discovering the beach and stop for cake. What more quench in Old Town. Last but not least could you ask for? (Of course, a whole day take in the panorama from Buzza Tower, St. Mary’s by bike means you can lounge on the beach for before parking your bike in Hugh Town Your perfect holiday begins BOOK ONLINE longer, and have a second slice of cake…) for a spot of shopping, to round off with Scilly Parking. Mark Prebble, St. Mary’s Bike Hire a glorious St. Mary’s day. Starting at Porthmellon, take the lane My favourite cycle route is a long, slow past Rosehill Studio and tackle the steepest Park your car with us and OR CALL exploration of St. Mary’s hidden beauties. hill, up past the Golf Club. Take a break we’ll drop you and your 01736 740277 or at Bant’s Carn, then carry on down, past Although it’s where everyone arrives, luggage right by the 07855 739060 the island has so many delights that the duck pond and you’ll find a hidden Scillonian and pick you up are often overlooked. gem: . on your way back of course. A half-day cycle ride will take you all A spot of cake in the high lanes and around the island with plenty of time a ride to the famous Loaded Camel rock to enjoy the spectacular views, visit formation will work up a thirst you can Get a yougood travel night’s to sleepthe Scillies. in our luxuriousWith views shepherd’s over Mount’s hut beforeBay, a TheEaLNIg  Yking-size bed and free wi-fi, it’s perfect on your way back too.

14 – S MAGAZINE Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 02 – 15 e are a family of five generations Suhaili and Scillonian II Scillonian III in challenging weather W of photographers, who started recording life on Scilly the 1860s. The first, John Gibson, was a seaman who bought his first camera abroad to use at home on the islands, and successive WALKING generations of the family have continued what he started – building up a unique photographic history of day-to-day life.

ON WATER On the Isles of Scilly, our transport links have always been a major part of island Every so often, a very low tide reveals a stretch life – so these feature prominently in the archive. In particular, Alexander of sand between Tresco and Bryher, and – Gibson’s series of six tongue-in-cheek postcards documenting a sea passage for a few hours, at least – it’s possible to walk from Penzance proved popular in the between the two, very different neighbours. years before the Great War.

We have photographed all the ships that served the islands over the years, as well as the smaller launches used for inter-island t might be called a spring tide, Be safe… trips. Sometimes these photographs have but it can happen at any time Retired Tresco Harbourmaster, Henry Tides for walking shown normal, day-to-day work; at other Iof year: just after a new moon, Birch, shares some golden rules if you’re times, we captured them in challenging or a full moon, the gravity of the going to walk between Tresco and Bryher: Actual tide heights are affected by the A PICTURE weather. The technology and design of sun and moon align, and tides reach • Choose appropriate footwear. wind, weather and atmospheric pressure, the craft may have changed, but the their highest and lowest points. • Check the tide times carefully but this year the following low tides power of the sea still commands the – never start to cross more than offer your best chance of making the same respect as it did 150 years ago. On Scilly, a particularly low spring half an hour after low tide. crossing on foot: tide can expose the sea bed in the • Never try the crossing in fog OF THE PAST Our family has also provided a 250m channel between Tresco and – the safest route is a crescent. photographic record of all the different May September Bryher, giving you the opportunity • Ask a local, such as your Boards of Directors at the Isles of Scilly to walk between islands that otherwise accommodation provider, for advice Fri 6th, 11:22am Sat 17th, 12:06pm Sat 7th, 12:09pm Sun 18th, 12: 48pm Steamship Group. Looking back, these enjoy such different identities. about the route, and where to cross. Sun 8th, 12:55pm Mon 19th, 13:32pm pictures show how local families have • Tell someone where you’re going Mon 9th, 13:41pm October always had an active role in running Handily, spring tides always happen and when you expect to be back. June Sun 16th, 11:43am the company – a tradition that still around lunchtime – presenting an Sun 5th, 11:50am Mon 17th, 12:27pm continues today. excellent excuse to stroll across to If in doubt, check with Tresco’s Island Mon 6th, 12:38pm Tue 18th, 13:12pm another island for a spot of lunch. Office (01720 422849) or Tresco Boat When the Isles of Scilly’s flower industry Service (01720 423373) before starting. was at its height, our sea links played a vital role in getting the islands’ flowers to market. And although today’s industry is not as large as it once was, the Steamship Company still has important work to do, transporting flowers to the mainland.

In 1969 my father, Frank Gibson, photographed Sir Robin Knox-Johnston on his yacht Suhaili as he passed Scilly on the way to a huge welcome in Falmouth, the end of his singlehanded, non-stop circumnavigation of the globe. It happened that Scillonian II was en route at the time, providing a lovely, local background to the historic moment.

For more than 100 years, Gibson photography documented While my family no longer runs life on Scilly – including the growth of the Isles of Scilly a photography business, we do still have our archive of photographs, and Steamship Group, and the arrival of the first Scillonian. we use our own images to create postcards, Sandra Kyne, the daughter of Frank Gibson, shares her calendars and souvenirs. If you’d like to see them, please visit us in our shop, Gibson memories – and some of her favourite pictures. Kyne, in Garrison Lane on St. Mary’s.

16 – S MAGAZINE Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 02 – 17 Circular trips As well as public transport, the boatmen provide pleasure trips to see some of the islands’ other highlights – like spotting puffins and seals on the uninhabited . The choice of trips varies, and is greatest during high season, so keep an eye on the boards (or Facebook) before making your plans.

Direct trips St. Mary's Boatmen's Association provide the services St. Martin's shown below daily throughout the main season. However these may have to be varied because of tide, weather and numbers. BRYHER Tresco Departures from St. Mary’s Returns from Tresco 10:00 14:15 TRESCO 10:15 15:45 11:15 16:45 12:15 14:00

St. Agnes Departures from St. Mary’s Returns from St. Agnes 10:15 14:15 11:45 16:00 14:00 16:45

St. Martin's Departures from St. Mary’s Returns from St. Martin's 10:15 14:30 SAMSON 14:.00 15:45 16:45 Getting St. Mary's Bryher (& Samson) Departures from St. Mary’s Returns from Bryher 10:15 14:30 14:00 16:45

around Island hopping (two island trip) Whilst the most relaxing way to enjoy the Islands is to spend a day on each one, several multi island combinations are possible. These include Tresco and Bryher, Samson and Bryher, and Tresco and Samson. here are literally dozens of boat trips for Availability of these trips will vary so please come you to choose from – scheduled passenger and ask on St. Mary’s Quay when on the Islands. sailings, jet boats, inter-island ferries and by boat smaller, water taxis. You can’t miss the Please note Tchalk boards on St. Mary’s Quay, with the day’s The times shown above are to illustrate the service schedules, as well as notice boards on each of provided and should not be taken as a timetable, If you’re planning to really the off-islands, too. as return times in particular, will vary. You will always be told the return times on the outward journey. experience Scilly, it won’t be long Ten of the islands’ bigger independent boats before you want to visit the off-islands… work together under the banner of St. Mary’s Boatmen’s Association. Like so many things on and that means travelling with our main Scilly, the approach to scheduling is relaxed and St. Agnes practical – the boatmen meet each morning public transport: the local boatmen. to plan the day ahead, based on the weather, tides and demand, then update Facebook and tell the local hotels. From May until September, though, their schedule generally looks a good deal like this…

Inter-island trips The journey from St. Mary’s to Carn Near on Tresco takes around 10 minutes. Travelling to St. Agnes is about 15 minutes, and other destinations, including other landing points on Tresco, are around 20 minutes.

18 – S MAGAZINE Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 02 – 19 A little 1 2 slice of Scill Whether you’re after a memento of your holiday or a special slice of Scilly to share with friends or family, we’ve got just the thing... 3 4

1. Scenic flights Climb aboard our Britten Norman Islander aircraft for a 20 minute scenic flight experience. Your Skybus pilot will fly you at 1000ft to allow for excellent views over iconic landmarks. www.islesofscilly-travel.co.uk/ scenic-flights

2. Treat yourself What’s a coastal holiday without fudge? Tuck into these traditional clotted treats, with packaging inspired by our water-loving friends. Choose from puffin, dolphin or seal. Available onboard Scillonian or at Land’s End Airport. 5 6 3. Fay Page jewellery Inspired by hours of shell searching and beachcombing on Scilly’s beautiful beaches. Made from solid silver these won’t turn to sand in your pockets and will last forever as a lovely memento of Scilly holidays. www.faypage.co.uk 4. In the bag Carry your holiday memories close with our handy jute bags. What’s your colour? Choose between vibrant blue or red, and two playful phrases. Available onboard Scillonian or at Land’s End Airport. 5. Scilly Flowers Scilly’s postal flower service sending gift 7 boxes of scented flowers all year round to any UK postal address. www.scillyflowers.co.uk

6. 49 Degrees The IOS Store - a true Scillonian brand. www.49degrees.co.uk

7. Give the gift of escape Whether it’s a big birthday or congratulations are in order, why not let your friends and family in on the Scilly secret? Call 01736 334220 to buy a travel gift voucher.

20 – S MAGAZINE Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 02 – 21 was born on St. Mary's at the end of the AND THE CUSTOMERS? ADVERTORIAL FEATURE PLANES, war – I still remember rationing and taking Visitors are still a cross-section of the Ithe ration book with me to the butchers. population, from the person in the street I went to Cornwall Technical College on to stars and celebrities – you should read BOATS the mainland, before entering industry through the airport’s VIP visitors book! and pursuing management training in Bath. &TRAINS Eventually the pull of the islands won DOES ANYTHING IN PARTICULAR and I came back in 1969. STAND OUT? NATIVE SCILLONIAN KEN SIMPSON My memories of the job over the years GREW UP DREAMING OF A JOB IN Like a lot of children, I always dreamt of include meeting Martin Clunes on a day TRANSPORT. NOW HE HAS BEEN PART something exciting – planes, boats and trip with three large dogs, dealing with OF THE ST. MARY’S AIRPORT TEAM trains all featured. I remember standing on an unhappy Phillip Searle from The Antiques LONGER THAN ANYONE. HE TELLS THE PERFECT DAY OUT Penzance station platforms looking in awe at Roadshow, and asking Professor Brian Cox US WHAT'S CHANGED. big black and green steam engines: engineers if he would mind doing an impromptu photo on the foot plate, coal dust everywhere, shoot – happily he said he’d be delighted. st martin’s firebox glowing an angry red. What a sight! One of my strangest memories is sending an unaccompanied parrot to to I did work with boats for a while, but see the exotic species vet – the conversation The gentlehe summer gentle summerbreeze in breezemy hair and in mycocoon muscles of fell Karma like Spa whereand I emerge Rolina CONTACT: family life meant I needed a more stable level was not all you might desire! the warmmy sun hair on my and face, the Iwarm slowly sun approach on intoperforms the sunlight her magic.with glistening Sixty minutesskin Karma st. Martin’s, Isles of Scilly, the island of St. Martin’s on a day tripper and a gentle smile on my face, which existence and I returned to management, my face, I slowly approach and a puddle of drool later my Lower Town, St Martin’s, TR25 0QW until Skybus beckoned… and I got to work HOW DO YOU ENJOY SCILLY? Tboat fromthe St. islandMary’s. of The St. Martin’s first thing on I a reflects my peace within. muscles in my back feel like butter Email: [email protected] with planes at last. It’s difficult to pin down a favourite place notice is the picture-perfect white, sandy as each island is very individual, with dcoveay tripperof Lower boat Town from Quay St. and Mary’s. the crystal The Theand subtropical I emerge intogardens the of sunlight St. Martin’s with Telephone: 01720 422368 HOW HAS THE JOB CHANGED different personalities, almost like people. firstclear thingwaves I gently notice lapping is the picture-perfectat the shore. areglistening now alive skin with and hotel a gentleguests and smile on SINCE THEN? white,The locals sandy are coveright, ofthis lower is probably town quaythe day-trippersmy face, whichfeasting reflectson locally my caught peace In the early days, paper ruled and As a youngster at school: we had the andcrème thede la crystalcrème of clear beaches waves in the gentlyUK seafoodwithin. platters and delicious cream let alone the Isles of Scilly. with oodles of cream & jam on freshly computerisation hadn’t quite reached this annual Samson picnic when the whole lapping at the shore. The locals are far. The only computer was an in-house of Carn Thomas School de-camped by bakedThe . subtropical gardens of St. rightSituated this right is on probably the stunning la crème beach de of la reservation system that catered very well for pleasure boat. The day was filled with Martin’s are now alive with hotel our individual needs. Now, nearly everything games, races and subsequent prizes, crèmeLower Townof beaches is Karma in the St. UK Martin’s let alone hotel, I can’t resist so I take a seat and feast on guests and day-trippers feasting on is on a computer and our awareness of the swimming, and a touch of the sun. When Themy destination Isles of Scilly. for the ultimate pampering a gourmet crab sandwich washed down activities in the Group is much greater. senior pupil status arrived we were allowed experience. I am booked in for the hot withlocally a couple caught of glasses seafood of crisp platters white to to explore the whole island. The majority Situatedstone massage right withon the the stunning resident therapistbeach of wine.delicious An hour cream just teaflies withby as oodlesI take in ofthe Rolina. Healers, Reiki Masters and world stunning panoramic sea views and smiling The revamped airport is smarter, spacious, of the islands remain unspoilt. Step around lower town is Karma St. Martin’s hotel, cream & jam on freshly baked scones. more visually appealing and has more a headland or hill and you can still lose leading spa curators in India have given young mums making sand castles and my destination for the ultimate I can’t resist so I take a seat and feast space for travellers awaiting departure. contact with the current century. Rolina the expertise that have been the paddlingon a gourmet with their crab toddlers sandwich in the washed near pamperingtalk of the islands experience. since the I am hotel booked in distance. As I relax into my blissful state down with a couple of glasses of crisp foropened the last hot year. stone massage with the I regret the sight of my boat transfer resident therapist Rolina. Healers, approachingKarma Rose. to takeBliss! me back to what ReikiIn my Masters enthusiasm and to world gain balanceleading inspa seems like another world entirely. 'mind, body and soul’, I skip up the quay An hour just flies by as I take in curatorstowards the in Indiadoors haveof reception. given Rolina From therethe Contactthestunning panoramic sea views and expertiseI am met bythat the have friendly been reception the talk ofteam the Karmasmiling St. young Martin’s, mums Isles of making Scilly, sand islandsand Rolina since who the then hotel leads opened me into last the year. Lowercastles Town, and St. paddling Martin's TR25 with 0QW their cocoon of Karma Spa. The magic begins.... Email:toddlers [email protected] in the near distance. As I InSixty my minutes enthusiasm and a puddle to gain of balancedrool later, in Telephone: 01720 422368 relax into my blissful state I regret the mind, body and soul I literally skip up sight of my water transfer the smalquay to the doors of the approaching to take me back to what reception and am greeted by the seems like another world entirely. friendly reception team & Rolina

22 – S MAGAZINE Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 02 – 23 beach aka the loaded camel The greatest show on Scilly? It’s above your head

fter dark, don’t forget Photographing the night sky in When to look up to look up. Scilly’s winter can be very challenging, remote location and but I’m always amazed at how A Scilly will give you the best seat 12th-13th August dark, clear skies can make much light modern DSLR in the house for some of nature’s Perseid meteor shower for spectacular star gazing. cameras can pick up. I’m really most spectacular shows… Spot a shooting star, or ten, Local photography enthusiast looking forward to shooting during one of the year’s brightest Dave Sherris tells us more… the Milky Way in July. 3rd June and most prolific meteor showers. Saturn at opposition 27th August The Isles of Scilly have very I use long exposures, and Your best chance to see the giant, ringed planet, as it makes Venus and Jupiter together little light pollution, so the sometimes use a flashlight its closest approach to Earth. The two planets will appear night sky can be spectacular. to light up the foreground; close together in the evening sky, I’ve always loved photography, it’s called “painting with light”. 3rd-6th July as they reach conjunction. and in particular playing with What you finally capture isn’t The Milky Way 16th October & 14th November light and shadows when the sun what the eye can see, so it’s Our galaxy’s bright centre is best seen in low moonlight Supermoon goes down, so I set myself the always a surprise to look at and clear weather, like this A wonderful view of the full moon challenge of capturing our the finished image on the summertime new moon. at the closest point in its orbit. own unique view of the stars. back of the camera.

24 – S MAGAZINE Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 02 – 25 LocAL food 1 from ScilLy #trAvelloCAl

From deserted beaches to headlands with sweeping views, Scilly has no shortage of wonderful picnic places – and how 3 much better if all your food is local? We packed our hamper with a feast from the islands’ independent producers…

1. Bread and 5. Jam and apple juice, Island Baker, St. Martin’s Carn Friars Farm, St. Mary’s Hand-made by Barney You’ll find Ang’s selection 2 McLachlan in a former of fruits and jams – as well lobster potting shed. as apple juice from her Barney uses the best, 300-strong orchard © James Churchill organic flour and – on an honesty stall introduces a new guest towards the Eastern end or get it All In one… bread every week. of St. Mary’s. What could 4 His freshly-made pasties be better than buying If collecting your picnic are well-known on the direct from the farm itself? ingredients from across the islands; the spiced islands sounds like hard work, vegetable option is 6. Fudge, Veronica you’ll find a selection of the best especially popular. Farm, Bryher Scillonian food and drink all in All the , cream and one place, at the Tanglewood 2. Island Fish Ltd, Bryher butter used by this small Kitchen, behind St. Mary’s Post From a shop on Bryher, family business comes Office. Between March and weekly stalls on New from cows at Troytown October, they’ll even make Grimsby and St. Mary's Farm on St. Agnes. sandwiches, quiches and pork Quays, or at the local pies for your hamper. produce market - the crab, You'll find this famous, A truE tASte oF iSlAnd lIfe lobster and wet fish are crumbly fudge on a stall as fresh as can be. Enjoy by the farm gate, and at potted crab, sandwiches, Vine Cafe, Hell Bay and 5 fish pies and more! the Island Shop on Bryher, Re-ignite your wanderlust soaring – we’re all about sourcing locally.” as well as in other outlets over the coast in a Skybus aircraft. The Crab Shack’s simple menu has 3. Scilly-raised duck legs, across the islands. Hop between islands and discover gone down a storm with both locals and Salakee Farm, St. Mary’s new landscapes each day. visitors, who start their evening travelling Salakee ducks have had a 7. Chocolate spoons, happy life, with plenty of The Very Scilly Chocolate Follow winding paths that lead to over from the larger islands on boats. space to waddle in small company, St. Mary’s 6 secluded white-sand beaches. Breathe Sail over to Bryher at sunset and groups (you might see the For an extra treat – in the fresh sea air and enjoy the unique you’ll be seated at a long table in farm as Skybus comes in you’re on holiday, after all scents of subtropical flowers. Nourish “The Crab Shack is what a room decorated with lobster pots and to land). – try these fun chocolate your soul feasting on locally caught I’d expect if I came somewhere fishing nets. Kearsley points out that spoons. They’re handmade 7 4. St. Martin’s Rosé wine, on St. Mary’s by local shellfish. Nothing beats getting stuck like Scilly; it enhances the the communal dining experience is St. Martin’s Vineyard, chocolatier Abbigail into island life and the Isles of Scilly are island experience. Especially intentional, “The atmosphere really St. Martin’s Hutchins. the perfect destination to do just that. travelling over by boat builds over the evening. Soon everyone’s A dry rosé, with subtle In fact, you need look no further – it’s a little adventure having a wild time cracking crab berry flavours – perfect for 8. Scillonian Tattie Cake, than The Crab Shack on Bryher (the and lobster.” This friendly and vibrant a sunny day – made by the Bryher Stores, Bryher 8 on a long summer’s night.” Thomas family since 1996, This traditional, smallest of five inhabited islands) for atmosphere is indicative of the welcome an example of Scilly’s vibrant coastal Richard Kearsley, you receive wherever you go on Scilly. on a former bulb farm. potato-based cake was Head Chef at The Crab Shack the staple food in Scilly’s lifestyle. The pop-up style restaurant Whether it’s tucking into fish and Or, if you prefer, try historic flower fields. opens during the summer season, serving chips in a family-run restaurant, buying the light Rondo red, or delicious crab, lobster and mussels from mackerel with a little help from a friendly a selection of white wine The original recipe, varieties: a Dry Eastard, which gives a deliciously the islands’ shores. Head Chef Richard fisherman, or sipping local ales as the a crisp St. Martin’s Special, moist texture, is a Kearsley says, “Our menu was inspired sun goes down; everyone who travels or a fruity Siegerrebe. closely-guarded secret by the shellfish right on our doorstep here instantly feels part of island life. If you’d like help choosing, – so the cake is exclusive look out for tasting events. to Bryher’s island shop.

26 – S MAGAZINE Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 02 – 27 TO MAKE to Scilly with Skybus), so instead Scilly recipe THE JAPANESE you could crisp the skin under a grill BITE-SIZED MAYONNAISE – or put the fish skin-side-down on a real barbecue, of course! RECIPES: Place the egg yolks and rice wine vinegar in a tall jug. Blitz for a minute When the skin is evenly charred, leave Euan Rodger, with a stick blender, then very slowly the fish on the tray until you need it. Tanglewood Kitchen, St. Mary’s add the rapeseed oil, blitzing constantly I like the flesh to be slightly pink, but Maryland crabcakes are a very popular as the egg slowly emulsifies with the if you prefer yours cooked through, just fish on our menu, using one of the best oil to form the mayonnaise. pop it into an oven for a few minutes. ingredients available here on Scilly. All our crab comes from the boat It may not require all the oil once TO PREPARE VickiAnna: hand-picked and fresh daily the mayonnaise starts to thicken; THE LETTUCE (weather permitting!) if it becomes too thick, thin it slightly with a little more rice wine vinegar. Cut each lettuce into quarters, season Our crabcakes are all about the crab. Once you’re happy with the consistency, with sea salt and pepper and rub with It’s such a wonderful, natural flavour so season with salt and pepper and rapeseed oil. Then char the outside of the we don’t mess about too much: a small chill until it’s needed. lettuce – again, with a blow torch if you amount of crushed saltine crackers, English have one, otherwise with a barbeque mustard, mayonnaise, egg yolk, seasoning TO PREPARE or grill – and set aside until you’re ready and freshly chopped flat leaf parsley. THE MACKEREL to serve. They’re best cooked with a little rapeseed Season the mackerel with sea salt TO PREPARE TO SERVE oil and a knob of butter, on a high heat in and pepper then place the fillets – Give the radishes a good wash – a non-stick frying pan, until browned both flesh-side-down – on a lightly-oiled sides and hot. We prefer to serve them with tray. Rub some rapeseed oil into the either leaving them whole or slicing them, depending on size – and place a fresh mixed salad, some thin-cut salty mackerel’s skin. At home, if you have fries… and a cold glass of wine! It’s fresh, a chef’s blow torch, use this to crisp a few on each plate (radish is lovely raw and gives the dish a nice texture). Place light and simple… and you’ll always the skin, patiently moving the flame want more. up and down until it’s gently charred a fillet of fish on each plate, with a few © Tresco Island and an even colour all over. pieces of the lettuce and a dollop of your mayonnaise. If you’re trying this recipe on holiday, BARBEQUED SCILLY MACKEREL WITH of course, you’re unlikely to have a blow The dish can be served hot or cold, RADISH, GRILLED BABY GEM LETTUCE torch to hand (especially if you’re flying but is best amongst friends. AND JAPANESE MAYONNAISE

Glenn Gatland, by Andrew O’Connor, Head Chef at Juliet’s Garden Restaurant, St. Mary’s Executive chef, Tresco Island Our Bryher lobster and Borough Farm asparagus pizza with a garlic butter base is a great way to showcase our great, local produce. The lobster and crab we get from You can’t get any fresher than a local fisherman Bryher’s Island Fish are as fresh as can be going out at dawn, and the fish being in my – and the asparagus crop at Borough Farm kitchen by midday. With mackerel this fresh, here on Tresco is simply fantastic. there’s no need to overcomplicate things: this dish keeps it simple, and lets the fish do the Borough Farm supply us with fruit and talking. It’s perfect for a long summer’s evening vegetables throughout the year – not only among friends, with a glass of bubbles. asparagus, but the fieriest chillies and most vibrant peppers. And we have the luxury Ingredients (serves six): of an authentic, wood-fired oven at the Six mackerel fillets, with pin bones removed Ruin Beach Café, which gives our Four little gem lettuces pizzas great texture and flavour. Two bunches of baby garden radishes Rapeseed oil Off duty, though, I love to catch my And for the Japanese mayonnaise: own dinner. Mackerel and pollack are Three free-range egg yolks great, and they’re best cooked simply 300ml rapeseed oil on a barbeque on the beach, with a simple Six tablespoons of rice wine vinegar salad using produce from the Borough Sea salt and pepper Farm stall – something a lot like © Tresco Island Andrew’s recipe here, in fact.

28 – S MAGAZINE Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 02 – 29 5 minutes with… Chief Engineer Andy Berntzen A BIRDER’S If you’re aboard Scillonian III, keep What is a typical day like? Even something as simple as a power cut an eye open for Andy and his team A normal sailing day starts at 7am, means I’m called to reset the ship’s power. of engineers, working tirelessly behind when the motorman starts the ship’s the scenes to keep our flagship in generator engine. He checks oil and Who works with you? PAR ADISE prime condition for your crossing. water levels, and works with the 2nd Steve George, the 2nd Engineer, has Engineer to prepare the engines and worked aboard Scillonian III ever since If you’ve ever wanted to try birdwatching, Scilly is the perfect place – What’s involved in keeping machinery for sea. he left school as a YTS apprentice Scillonian III shipshape? – that’s about 30 years ago, now. with some 220 species visiting each year, from all over the world. There are around 50 routine maintenance On Scillonian III, the engine room He’s sailed alongside a number of We asked local Ornithologist Will Wagstaff for tips… jobs, which we carry out each week. must be manned all times when at sea. experienced Chief Engineers, and We work around the sailing timetable I’m in the engine room with the 2nd has learned the best from all of them. to keep everything running on time, Engineer while we’re preparing for He has great attention to detail. The Isles of Scilly are a birdwatcher’s the pools on all the islands, the nature Although there’s always the chance to see which makes for long days – from departure and arrival, then we take haven. More than 430 species have been trails on St. Mary’s and any sheltered a bird that has flown thousands of miles, early morning until 8pm. it in shifts while we’re at sea. We Our Motorman, Steve Rendell, seen here over the years; we generally corners – and if you want to see seabirds, youngsters are often just as enthralled by work hard while we’re at St. Mary’s has been with us about four years. see between 220 and 250 in a year, a boat trip to the outer rocks in the seeing a song thrush crack open a snail The shaft tunnel, steering to make sure we’re ready to leave He’s an excellent all-round engineer of which around 50 stay and breed. spring and early summer is a must. right in front of them – or spotting their compartment, emergency generator on time in the afternoon. who takes real pride in his work. first puffin, sitting on the bright blue room, fan room, forward machinery In the spring and autumn you can see But the real secret is to take the time to ocean near the island of Annet. compartment, and outside deck After tying-up back in Penzance, Tell us a secret? 60 species in a week, if the weather’s right. look everywhere. It’s all too easy to walk machinery all need regular checks the ship’s power supply is kept on Even when the weather’s bad, we keep the past a field or beach, and not realise there With birds from all over the world, and cleaning, and we polish the brass until unloading is complete. I take turns engine room spotlessly clean. It’s not easy Many birders come here every year, for the was something to see there the whole time. I still get excited every time I go out. and copper every week to make sure with the 2nd Engineer to be on call, when we’re making repairs indoors, but chance to see rare vagrants from America, I never know what I’m going to see, and she’s looking her best. in case there’s a problem in the night. all the engineers make it a point of pride. Russia and all points in between – but Fun for all the family that makes living here such a pleasure. for others it’s something as simple as the It’s not just the rare birds that bring chance to see an Atlantic puffin in the enjoyment for our visitors. The local Want to try it? wild that’s the real highlight of their trip. birds are rather tame so often come See Will’s wildlife walk route on page 14. to you, if you sit and wait – whether Where to look it be a house sparrow or a thrush On Scilly, birds turn up everywhere. in an open-air café, or a wader by The best places for birding are generally the water’s edge.

Will Ornithologist What to see when Spring Autumn There’s always plenty “Seeing my first swallow “The wryneck is of wildlife on Scilly, of the year is always another European visitor WAGsTAff at any time of year, noteworthy – then hearing I want to see each year. but Will says Spring and my first cuckoo – but it’s It’s a member of the Autumn are key seasons, a more exotic species woodpecker family, as migrating birds visit that makes my spring. but can often be found the islands on their The hoopoe is a pink, feeding on open ground. long, seasonal journeys. black and white bird They’re rarely easy to find, from southern Europe. so if I see one it makes my To book a wildlife It’s an annual visitor but, day – and many regulars tour contact Will on despite its bright colour, on my walks like to go 01720 422212 or visit it can be very hard to on a ‘wryneck hunt’ his Facebook page find. If I see one of in mid September.” for his latest sightings these charismatic birds, my spring is complete.”

30 – S MAGAZINE Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 02 – 31 What’s SPRING, SUMMER AND on Scilly AUTUMN Gig Racing 2016 Pilot gig rowing used to be a profession; now, it’s Scilly’s most popular sport – and you can see the islanders’ teams race every Wednesday and Friday evening, throughout the long summer season. There are plenty of great vantage points to see the racing – and relax with a drink or a bite to eat, as the rowers When you get to Scilly, you’re bound to do the hard work out on St. Mary’s Sound – or take the spectators’ find there are plenty of local events to boat from St. Mary’s Quay. entertain you – at any time of year, the calendar’s full of things to see and do. We’ve selected a few highlights… May June July August September October The Isles of Scilly Festival Scilly Laughs Comedy Festival Sevenstones Beer & Cider Taste of Scilly Throughout May 11th–14th June Festival, St. Martin’s Throughout September A month-long celebration of arts, Enjoy a four-night festival of fun, with 15th–17th July A vibrant, month-long celebration of literature, music and culture on the islands, shows at St. Mary’s Old Town Inn, Tresco’s Not to be outdone, the Sevenstones Inn the islands’ best local produce, including with a full programme of workshops, Flying Boat Club, Adam’s Fish & Chips on St. Martin’s has its own festival of the Tresco and Bryher Food Festival. talks, concerts, exhibitions and walks. on St. Martin’s and St. Agnes Island Hall. food and drink, with special lunches and Look out for masterclasses, demonstrations dinners, tipples from all over the world, and talks… or simply enjoy Scilly’s World Pilot Gig Championships ÖTILLÖ Swimrun Isles of Scilly and live music from The Barnacles. abundance of food and drink delights. 29th April–2nd May 18th June St. Martin’s Film Festival Every year since 1990, the famous The Swimrun world series – ranked among 6th–9th October gig rowing championships have the toughest endurance races in the world The islands’ second film festival, at the attracted teams and spectators from – comes to the UK for the first time. Seven Stones Inn. This year’s highlights all over the world. At Isles of Scilly Teams of two will tackle a challenging © MoD/Crown Copyright 2015 - Cpl Buckley include “The Wicker Man”, Jermaine Travel, we help by offering a discount 45km course (longer than a marathon) Clement’s vampire comedy “What We Do to all competitors. that combines 35 km of trail running with St. Agnes Fete in the Shadows”, a “Blues Brothers” and open water swim sections totalling 10km. 7th August “Roadrunner” double-bill, and the recent New Inn Ale & Music Festival A day of fun for all the family, at Cornish film, “Tin”. 20th–24th May The Tresco Triathlon St. Agnes’ cricket field and Island Hall. Relax in Tresco’s best (in fact, only) 26th June There’s all the fun and games you’d hope Walk Scilly Weekend pub, listen to the musicians and enjoy A sprint-distance triathlon (a short swim, for in a traditional, island village fete. 13th–17th October up to 30 different ales. followed by a 12-mile cycle and 3-mile run). A walker’s paradise, this festival of group The event has been organised by islanders The Islands’ Regatta and guided walks really does have Scilly Folk Festival since 2010, with proceeds going to Cancer 26th–29th August something for everyone: wildlife, 26th–30th May Research UK – and you’re assured of great Celebrating Scilly’s maritime heritage Scilly Swim Challenge stargazing, sunrise and top-to-toe island Join musicians from across the support whatever your athletic ability. Miracle Theatre: “Life’s a Dream” over the August Bank Holiday weekend. 10th, 13th & 14th September walks, to name but a few. There’s no better, South West and beyond, at lunchtimes Conveniently, the course finishes at… 27th–31st July Watch a parade of sail, Redwing Starting at sunrise, some 150 swimmers or more sociable way to discover each and evening sessions on St. Mary’s, Five open-air performances on three championship racing and a Red Arrows will attempt to swim around six islands island’s hidden treasures. Tresco, St. Martin’s and St. Agnes. The New Inn Cider Festival, Tresco islands, from Cornwall’s award-winning aerobatic display, see a Royal Navy in either one or two days: that’s a total 24th–28th June Miracle Theatre Company. For tickets, frigate and board the schooner of 15km in the water, and another 10km For more information on all local See www.scillyfolkfestival.org.uk A lively celebration of local ciders and visit the Tourist Information Centre, “Spirit of Falmouth” – or simply on foot. Some of them won’t even be events, please see www.visitislesofscilly.com/ for more information. scrumpy, with live music over the weekend. Porthcressa Beach, St. Mary's. enjoy the entertainment. wearing wetsuits. news-events/events

32 – S MAGAZINE Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 02 – 33 6 9 10 Get lost Fancy a tipple? “It’s about the in a book We happened to If you’re short of notice the vineyard simple things in life” rainy on St. Martin’s offers something to read, the community library a covered wine tasting on St. Mary’s has an experience at its excellent selection – visitor centre, and day as well as free internet Holyvale on St. Mary's If you’re aboard Scillonian III, look around The beaches are beautiful, unspoilt and access, if you prefer has an indoor tasting for Sarah Firmin: she’s been coming to #travellocal so deserted – the children are free to play something more room – and some of the Isles of Scilly ever since she was born. knowing you’ll always be able to spot them. modern. the world’s best wines. As you walk around the islands, you can ideas Well, it would be rude not to, wouldn’t it? Sarah fell in love with the Isles of Scilly pick up home-grown food, or flower bulbs, on family holidays as a child. Now she's “WE LOVE ISLAND from the stalls in front of people’s houses. It’s all grown up and brings her own family HOPPING – EACH OF just got such a lovely community feel to it. You wouldn’t think it, but it THE ISLANDS OFFERS to St. Mary's each summer, on the SOMETHING does occasionally rain on Scilly. Scillonian III. DIFFERENT.” The islands are so small and every year you Here are ten ways to make the see familiar faces. There are lots of fetes, with most of your time on the islands We asked what it is about the island “EVERY YEAR YOU SEE bouncy castles and food stalls, which give when the weather’s wet. lifestyle that keeps her coming back, you an opportunity to mix with the locals. and why she chooses to sail. FAMILIAR FACES.” “WE SIT OUT ON THE For us, the journey is part of the island “It’s about the simple things in life, experience and adds to the excitement; 1 3 and enjoying family time together. DECK AND LOOK OUT we look forward to it each year. We always Visit the Go for We’ll hire bikes or pack a picnic and FOR THE ISLANDS take Scillonian III – on a sunny day we local artists a swim head for hidden beaches, or take the WITH THE KIDS… can sit out on the deck and look out kids to watch the gig racing on a Friday. LAST YEAR, WE SAW for the islands with the kids. Last year, Wherever you look The Normandy indoor We love island hopping: each of the DOLPHINS.” we saw dolphins swimming past. on Scilly you’ll find swimming pool on galleries full of art, St. Mary’s is open to islands offers something different. It really gets you in the island spirit.” capturing the islands’ the public all the year 4 unique light. A tour round – but then, if of artists’ studios on you’re going to get Children’s St. Mary’s alone is a wet anyway, perhaps soft play great way to spend there’s no good a rainy day. Or there’s reason not to go for For parents of smaller the famous Tresco a swim outdoors… children, soft play Gallery, and on Bryher is a tried-and-trusted 7 the renowned artist For more ideas for retreat on a rainy day Richard Pearce has – and there’s one Retail therapy built a unique studio rainy day activities on Scilly, too. In from a gig shed, take a look at Old Town, St. Mary’s, A rainy day is surely all inches from the sea. visitislesofscilly.com Kings of the Castle the excuse you need has age-appropriate to explore Scilly’s play equipment for shops. Each inhabited babies and toddlers island has its own, 2 up to eight-year- unique stores – with olds… and a café some products you Try your for mum and dad. simply won’t find on the mainland. hand at crafts 10 5 Brave the rain! While you’re 8 feeling inspired, Brush up on It might have been the Phoenix local history Get sporty Alfred Wainwright Craft Studio has indoors who said “there’s workshops every Voted Scilly’s top no such thing as bad afternoon, with rainy-day activity Each off island has weather, only the arts and crafts by our own staff, a community centre wrong clothing”. activities for all the Isles of Scilly with indoor sports, It’s your holiday, ages. With a chance Museum is packed like table tennis and and if you want to to paint stained with artefacts from badminton. For more get wrapped up or glass, print with wrecks, archeological information, ask hire a golf buggy lino or make your sites, and daily life the hosts at your and head out into own jewellery, on the islands through accommodation, the rain, we say go there’s something the ages – each with or call into the for it – you’ll enjoy for everyone. its own fascinating Tourist Information your post-walk hot story to tell. Centre on St. Mary’s. chocolate all the more.

34 – S MAGAZINE Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 02 – 35 Stay - Eat - Relax

Your own private island

www.tresco.co.uk