89 e Punjabi Lodi sultans, The fifth Delhi, Firozabad ( p99 ), consist- p99 ( The fifth Delhi, Firozabad Delhi, however,not was The sixth city of member of the Central Asian Turk clan, the the Central member of Asian Khiljis, who took Delhi in 1290. His lieuten- ant, Ghiyus-ud-din Tughlaq, followed in Ala- inaugurating Delhi’s thirdud-din’s footsteps, incarnation, Tughlaqabad, in 1321, whose ). The fourth p126 evocative ruins still stand ( from 1326, a Tughlaq dates Delhi, , Ghiyus-ud-din’s successor. of creation was built a big fortified palace, of ing largely in 1354 by next-in-line Sultan Shah Firoz . Then, in Kotla in present-day Central to the whims of prey 1398, Delhi fell completely and was warlord Tamerlane, Asian wrangling for Following a period of sacked. was locals, the area power by the remaining by th re-established whose seen mark can still be today in the ). p107 Gardens ( tombs at the Lodi to appear until 1533, when the Afghan king known as Emperor Suri, also Shah Sher took the city and built a Shah, Sher ), near the spot where p104 at Purana ( the ancient is thought to have the grandson of Jahan, stood. Emperor Shah his court to the who moved famous ), constructed p142 Sikri ( doomed Fatehpur , in 1638, thus shift- Shahjahanabad, from . ing the back Shahjahanabad (Old Delhi) was built by Mughal Emperor . Siri, located near modern a citadel Asian king village, was built by Central Jahanpanah, was proclaimed. creation, a second Tughlaq New Delhi was inaugurated by the British, New Delhi was inaugurated by as the jewel in their colonial crown. Tughlaqabad ( p126 ), a fortified though short-lived, city, was built by Ala-ud-din’s successor; p126 ( Tughlaqabad Firozabad ( p99 ), a fortified Shah palace, was founded by Firoz Kotla. p99 ( Firozabad ( p104 ), was founded by Afghan king), was founded by Afghan , located near the present p104 Qila ( Purana Lal Kot was founded by the Tomar Lal Kot was founded the first ‘official’ Delhi incarnation. clan, as DELHI •• History (1303)

(1321)

Ala-ud-din. its ruins remain. day Gate. Old Delhi Area: area: area: Qutb Minar (1060) City First City Second City Third Fourth City (1326) New Delhi Area: City (1354) Fifth Sixth City (1533) (1638) City Seventh New Delhi Area: Eighth City (1931) THE EIGHT INCARNATIONS OF DELHI OF DELHI INCARNATIONS THE EIGHT was a quick list of what here’s still visible today; eight cities are of many of Delhi’s Remains and when. where, In 1060, a Rajput clan named the Tomars Officially, has comprised Delhi eight dis- The first four cities of Delhi were all to all to Delhi were four cities of The first founded Lal ‘official’ Delhi. This Kot, the first times. For a brief run-down of its various its various times. For a brief run-down of above. box incarnations, seemajor the the Qutb where the south, around the area Minar still stands. The far older settlement in though, Indraprastha, featured which of ago, 3000 years over the epic Mahabharata Delhi is the earliest known incarnation of its eight incar- of as one (not officially counted India just east of nations) and was centred New Delhi. in Gate ), a citadel built p107 was followed by Siri ( in 1303 by the unpopular king Ala-ud-din, HISTORY HISTORY colourful and tumultu- history is as Delhi’s and desired have ous as it is ancient. Many invaded the city, but the old saying that ‘who- ever establishes doubt- a new city at Delhi will loseless it’ has so far always come true – it to be seenremains whether its modern-day by the moneyed middle classes will takeover same fate. suffer the was ac- which tinct cities (only the last one of tually named Delhi), though in practice, there been many periods between the foun- have separate ‘city’ during which each dation of hands multiple changed Delhi control over lonelyplanet.com Jama Masjid New Delhi Qutb Minar Place Bars Connaught TELEPHONE CODE: 011 TELEPHONE CODE: 011 „ Old Delhi Street Food ( p101 ), Old Old POPULATION: 12.8 MILLION POPULATION: „ ( p98 ), India’s Qutb Minar Qutb Minar New Delhi Connaught Place Connaught Place ( p96 ), an evocative ), an evocative p96 ( ( p113 ) near Chandni ) near Chandni p113 ( Red FortRed Jama Masjid Jama Masjid ( p117 ), then chow down on p117 ( testament to the testament largest , built by Shahlargest Jahan bar food Delhi street of the price Chowk for a tenth ( p126 ) tower, built to proclaim the arrival ) tower, built to proclaim the arrival p126 ( of Islam experiencing Victorian imperial designs imperial designs experiencing Victorian on a grand scale

Sip a mojito in a slick Head out to the soaring Stroll through Lutyens’ Gape at the Wander the Wander AREA: 1483 SQ KM AREA: 1483 SQ KM

„ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS „

As one of India’s busiest international gateways, Delhi is a natural starting gateways, and ending point one of India’s busiest international As Meanwhile, to the north, Islamic India, built by the Old Delhi was once the capital of Broadly speaking, Delhi comprises two distinct halves. Spacious and planned, southern New Spacious Broadly speaking, two distinct Delhi comprises halves. Some Delhi attributes work surprisingly well: the plentiful ATM machines, the train ticket work surprisingly well: the plentiful ATM Some Delhi attributes

„

extravaganza pizza. to a perfect wood-fired over a frothy cappuccino, then taking your dining pick from anything from a local street-food taking a frothy cappuccino, then a local street-food your dining pick from anything from over surface, soaking reviving up the medieval of Old Delhi, visiting top-notch museums, for travel into . With just a day or two to spare, you can easily dip beneath Delhi’s into Rajasthan. to spare, With just a day or two for travel many of Delhi’s greatest sites, including Jama Masjid and the sprawling Red Fort. including Jama Masjid sites, many of Delhi’s greatest in the 17th century. Today it’s an eclectic housing blend of ancient history and modern chaos, southern and western suburbs home to semipermanent foreigners – many embassy workers. – many foreigners suburbs home to semipermanent southern and western architecture, wide boulevards and open spaces. This area remains a political and business hub, its a remains area This spaces. wide boulevards and open architecture, Delhi was built in the early 20th century as the British imperial capital, with Lutyens’ neoclassical Lutyens’ 20th century as the British imperial capital, with Delhi was built in the early the greedy rickshaw drivers and crooked con-artists to toe the line. rickshaw drivers – stubbornly refuse the greedy booking system, the luxurious top-end hotels and the impressive metro system, whilst others – metro system, booking top-end the luxurious and the impressive system, hotels creaky old city becomes increasingly more loveable the more time you spend here. the more loveable more old city becomes increasingly creaky elements to overshadow their stay. With patience, perseverance and a sense of humour, the perseverance their stay. With patience, elements to overshadow Delhi, India’s fascinating and frenzied capital, rewards those who refuse to allow its less-lovable to those who refuse capital, rewards fascinating and frenzied Delhi, India’s Delhi © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © 88 DELHI DELHI DELHI

91 cnr 26110101, Jeevan Bharati 24hr) % h 23719506; A-Block, (Baluja Forex; Map (Baluja Forex; 9.30am-9pm Mon- 23311133; Sita World % 23416585; C-33, Con- h % (Map pp92-3 ; pp92-3 (Map % (Map p100 ; D-block, Connaught (Map pp102-3 ; pp102-3 (Map (Map p100 ; p100 (Map (Map pp92-3 ; Vasant Vihar); ; Vasant pp92-3 (Map 9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2.30pm (Map ; p100 (Map p110 ; Hotel Ajanta, 36 Arakashan p110 (Map (Map p100 ; 9A Phelps Bldg); p100 (Map (Map p100 ; Connaught Pl); p100 (Map (Map ; p100 from (see above) arranges money transfers 10am-4pm Mon-Fri; 10am-1pm Sat) Ex- h h 51541523; 4596 Main , Paharganj; Basant Lok

10am-1.30pm, 2.30-7pm daily) Prescription and % (Map p110 ; Main Bazaar, Paharganj) p110 (Map Connaught Pl

24623738; www.eastwestrescue.com; B-28 Greater B-28 Greater www.eastwestrescue.com; 24623738; 9am-8.30pm) Cash advances on MasterCard and Visa. 9am-8.30pm) Cash advances on MasterCard (Map p100 ; 3rd fl, Connaught Pl) ; 3rd fl, p100 (Map (Map p110 ; Rajguru Rd, Paharganj) p110 (Map h Connaught Pl; Amex-only ATM. Sat) Also has an Travels, F-Block, Connaught Pl; Sat, to 6pm Sun) There are numerous citywide branches, are Sat, to 6pm Sun) There including a counter at the Connaught Place post office Telephone). branch (see Post & Pl; % Kailash Part 1) A private in an unassuming clinic housed N-Block Market. white building opposite The following change major currencies and currencies major The following change cheques. travellers American Express Central Bank of India Chequepoint Foreign Exchange ThomasCook MONEY TRANSFERS INTERNATIONAL ThomasCook Western Union Opticians Delhi is a good place to pick up new frames, glasses or contact lenses. A good, swift cen- here. listed is tral choice Optical Corner of India East West MedicalEast West Centre Money ATMS net- to international linked (24 hours) ATMs throughout plentiful Most Delhi. works are and Cirrus, Maestro accept Visa, MasterCard, American Express. Bank of Punjab Citibank HDFC ICICI UTI TRAVELLERS FOREIGN CURRENCY & CHEQUES branch. its Connaught Place p110 ; h ext 3584; Ashok Hotel, ; Rd, Paharganj) Rd, (Map p110 ; Rajguru Rd). C-Block & K-Block Bldg naught Pl; changes travellers cheques, foreign currency, and provides currency, changes travellers cheques, foreign Also arranges international cards. cash advances on credit at the Imperial another branch There’s money transfers. Hotel ( p113 ). Time Time Delhi Delhi (Rs 30) is 23329506; 43662026; 43662026; (AIIMS; Map 24611515; (Map pp102-3 ; pp102-3 (Map 26925858; www % % % (Map pp102-3 ; First City First % (Rs 20) and (Map pp102-3 ; Khan Market;

(Map pp102-3 ; (Rs 20). (Map pp102-3 ; pp102-3 (Map (Map pp102-3 ; pp102-3 (Map DELHI •• Information (Map p100 ; N-Block, Connaught Pl; p100 (Map (Off Map pp92-3 ; pp92-3 (Off Map 7.30am-10pm) 9am-8pm Mon-Sat) 9am-8pm (Map pp102-3 ; Khan Market; per 30min pp102-3 (Map (Map p110 ; Main Bazaar, Paharganj; per p110 (Map magazine (Rs 30) makes a great, a great, magazine (Rs 30) makes h h 26588500, ambulance 1099; Ansari Nagar) Has 10.30am-7pm) Delhi City Guide City Delhi % (Rs 10) both include a Delhi map, as Guardini Drycleaners Explore Delhi h 26871901; 50E Chandragupta Marg, Chanakyapuri) Marg,26871901; 50E Chandragupta 23365525; Baba Kharak Singh Marg) Another hospital 24622000; dry cleaning coat/suit/skirt Rs 185/280/175; 11am-7.30pm Mon-Sun). % 30min Rs 10; 3 Kasturba Gandhi Marg) 3 Kasturba Gandhi Out Delhi available hip introduction to the city. All are and bookshops. at most newsstands Medical Services pharmacies around plenty of are There markets. Connaught Place, and in all Delhi’s All India Institute of Medical Sciences Apollo Hospital Vihar) .apollohospdelhi.com; Mathura Rd, Sarita Dr Ram Manohar Lohia Hospital Tibet House Library Tibet Internet Access cafés around too many internet aren’t There up makes Connaught Place, but Paharganj places to check of for this with a whole slew from Rs 5 to print a your email. Most charge and Rs 30 to scan A4 page black-and-white a CD. or write Cyber Graphics Cyber Station DSIDC Cyber Café Laundry a laun- offer hotels and midrange Most budget dry service (top-end places for a decent rate and an arm and a leg for a shirt may charge earth-conscious, feeling If you’re trousers). lug your laundry to the ‘eco friendly garment care’ % h Media ac- but very old-fashioned, The charmingly curate, Diary does a slick monthly magazine with comprehensive while the fortnightlylistings/reviews, lonelyplanet.com CentreIndia Habitat Lodi Rd) InstituteItalian Embassy of Culture Max Mueller Bhavan pp92-3 ; service. a 24-hour ambulance emergency % facilities. with 24-hour emergency 1 Institutional Area, Lodi Rd) 1 Institutional Area, per hr Rs 50; Rs 50; Delhi Delhi 11am- h which can can which 24655641; 43500200; % 23415031; 23979297; lonelyplanet.com % 23320020; 18 B-Block; 24694610; % (Rs 290) and (Rs 290) and % 23710111; 17 Kasturba 10am-7pm) Tucked away 10am-7pm) Tucked % % % 23322260; 29 B-Block; 24693257; 46 Housing Soci- h % % (Map pp102-3 ; pp102-3 (Map (Map p97 ; p97 (Map (Map p100 ; p100 (Map (Map pp102-3 ; pp102-3 (Map (Map p100 ; p100 (Map (Map p100 ; p100 (Map 10am-7pm Mon-Sat) 10am-7pm (Map pp102-3 ; pp102-3 (Map (Rs 75), available at most book- (Rs 75), available Eicher City Map City Eicher (Map p100 ; p100 (Map AA City Maps Delhi Map, Delhi Maps AA City h (Map pp92-3 ; pp92-3 (Map 10.15am-7.30pm) Mon-Sat) 11am-8pm 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) 10am-7.30pm 72 Lodi Estate) 72 Lodi h h ety, South Extension Part 1; specialises in quality coffee-table in a back lane, Timeless complimentary tea. books and offers 17 L-Block; 17 L-Block; h Alliance Française British Council Delhi Public Library KHAN MARKET MARKET KHAN Bahri & Sons Circle Bookstore Full SOUTH EXTENSION Timeless Cultural Centres & Libraries Delhi’s libraries and cultural centres of Many host exhibitions and seminars, dance, music and theatrical performances. Check listings ) ( opposite for details. shops, many conveniently located around around located shops, many conveniently to Other good areas Connaught Place. ) p120 ( the Khan Market browse for books are Book Market and the Daryaganj Sunday For cut-price titles, you’ll find plenty ). p119 ( roadside book stalls to peruse;of beware might be badly set,that pages eclectically last page that crucial or missing ordered, you whodunnit. telling AREA PLACE CONNAUGHT Bookworm English Book Store New Book Depot Maps Maps The free tourist spots, is a up in cafés and be picked on Delhi map, with information good basic train embassy phone numbers, monuments, the airport. For times and evena diagram of detail, the produces Eicher exceedingly more 245-page Road Map and newsstands. shops INFORMATION Bookshops book- wonderful Delhi has dozens of Gandhi Marg) Gandhi SP Mukherjee Marg) SP Mukherjee 7.30pm Mon-Sat) 7.30pm DELHI •• Orientation •• DELHI

Further south still, you’ll find the Qutb Further south still, you’ll find the Qutb an auto-rickshaw around, either take To get Directly south from Connaught Place south from Connaught Place Directly Further north, you’ll reach Old Delhi, home Further north, you’ll reach Just north of Connaught Place, you’ll Connaught Place, you’ll Just north of Finally, the eighthFinally, was Delhi, Delhi, New

Although Delhi sprawls for miles (its official to your chosen destination. to your or the spanking new metro system ( p125 ) which p125 ( or the spanking new metro system – serenity will whisk you – in underground or taxi trip, for an ‘on the ground’ orientation, Minar ( p126 ), and the crumbling ruins of ), and the crumbling ruins of p126 Minar ( Tughlaqabad ( p126 ). between and the airport to the between central Delhi and the airport to the south-west. Many top-end hotels are here, in the ‘dip- here, are top-end hotels Many Chanakyapuri, tucked of lomatic enclave’ and west are affluent suburbs affluent South Delhi suburbs and west are and numerous pleasant areas. shopping ing runs from to the to the ing Rajpath runs from India Gate Beyond south this, to the Palace. Presidential is India Gate and the impressive buildings buildings and the impressive is India Gate New Delhi. Broad, command- Lutyens’ of Tilla, also known as the Tibetan Colony, a Colony, also known as the Tibetan Tilla, accommodation alternative peaceful budget to Paharganj. thoroughfare. In Old Delhi, you’ll also find thoroughfare. (ISBT). Bus Terminal State the main Inter Further north again, you’ll find Majnu-ka to the Red Fort, Jama Masjid, and Chandni Masjid, to the Red Fort, Jama principal Chowk, Old Delhi’s congested tels, souvenir shops and ‘tourist restaurants’, and ‘tourist restaurants’, shops souvenir tels, serviceswhich Delhi’s most of the needs of budget travellers. conglomeration of bargain-basement ho- bargain-basement conglomeration of point for most journeys to Rajasthan and to Rajasthanpoint for most journeys and the chaotic of side beyond. On the opposite a labyrinthine Chelmsford Rd is Paharganj, northern Old Delhi seem to converge. northern Old Delhi seem station,find New Delhi railway the starting around central Connaught Place, upon which around central Connaught Place, upon which southern New Delhi and of the characters ORIENTATION ORIENTATION officially inaugurated, until 1931. In 1947 it until 1931. In 1947 officially inaugurated, modern India. capitalbecame the of but construction was not finished, and the city and the city was not finished, but construction lowing the eventual fall of the Mughal the empire lowing the eventual fall of Raj. the British The moving and the rise of British India from the capital of of (Calcutta) was announced in 1911 to Delhi built almost 300 years later by the British, fol- by the later 300 years built almost city limits encompass 1483 sq km), it’s rela- city limits encompass 1483 best way the Probably easy to navigate. tively by taking is to begin a stroll oriented to get 90 DELHI DELHI

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92 DELHI DELHI DELHI 95 choice, choice, his You should be even more careful when when careful You should be even more will then drop you at the hotel of of at the hotel drop you will then where he gets a plump commission and you and commission a plump gets he where room rate. a high get TRAIN TICKET SCAMS TRAIN TICKET SCAMS At the New Delhi train station, touts may at the try to stop you from booking tickets Tourist International (1st-floor) upstairs TOURS & TOURIST INFORMATION SCAMS SCAMS INFORMATION TOURS & TOURIST there the touts might you, what tell No matter official, government-run of only a couple are pri- are tourist offices in the city. The others prices. inflated offering owned, often vately only go to the tourist For tourist information, . opposite on offices listed Delhi. Lonely out of booking multiday tours from trav- reports frequent Planet receives only and paid upfront, who booked ellers tour’ failed to find that their ‘all inclusive pro- sites, to major to include entrance fees accommodation, or simply vided terrible prom- places they were to the didn’t travel been sold ised. too, have Several travellers, up cruises’, ferried only to be or ‘river ‘lake’ and instability violence where to Kashmir, security worry. a remain DELHI •• Dangers & Annoyances in one ear. (checking since the last passenger). If you run into any problems, threaten that it’s been reset booth, suggest you the tourist or transport near a prepaid to telephone police or, if you’re to sort there out the dispute. accompany the driver planning on booking or trips to trouble spots (including Srinagar). If you’re a tour, only use of India, the Association Agents such as the Travel with organisations agents accredited of India – Tour Operators Association of Tour Operators and the Adventure Indian Association ask to see their accreditation. you should go to visit their shop: it’ll likely all the way. be hard-sell to their ‘booking office’. Tell persistent taxi drivers that you’ve paid for your hotel in advance, in advance, paid for your hotel that you’ve taxi drivers persistent to their ‘booking office’. Tell no point taking that they stop the car and, if they continue, ask so there’s you elsewhere to call or email to be sure, Just number. plate down the registration so that you can write booking, check-in. confirm your hotel if possible, 24 hours before renovated/just is closed/being Tourist Bureau best to convince you that the International station attest. the lying, to which warning signs all over across the road. They’re trial ear-cleaning dirty you a free, touts who surreptitiously one of your shoes or offer Ignore is put on for any journey by taxi or rickshaw, or insist the meter in advance a fee Agree low standard tours, agents who’ll try to sell you expensive, of unscrupulous travel Beware then suggests help or directions, accompany any friendly individual who stops to offer Never is closed/full/burning down and try to take you you that your hotel taxi touts who tell Ignore at the New Delhi Railway Station, and who’ll do their Walk on by the touts who congregate „ „ „ „ DODGING DELHI’S DODGY DEALERS DODGING DELHI’S DODGY DEALERS „ „

including the international airport, New Delhi airport, New international including the travellers Female train station and Janpath. . p372 at a look take should also Scams operating in scams a number of are There around tourist hubs. Delhi – be extra cautious ) below See ( Dodging Delhi’s Dodgy Dealers practical tips. for a summary of TOUTS HOTEL taxi- materialise in the form of Touts often at the international most frequently wallahs, will try to per- airport. These sneaky drivers is full, poor value, suade you that your hotel at all, and will try to take there or is no longer further, Some will go one step you elsewhere. ‘kindly’ taking you to a ‘tourist office’ where a colleague in cahoots will phone your hotel the driver’s on your behalf, and corroborate course, he’s talking to of story. In reality, someone in the next room. The taxi-wallah lonelyplanet.com fairly innocu- scammers find generally you’ll or call their them ignore you simply ous if ‘tourist a special that, there’s bluff. Failing jeeps (each in clearly marked police’ squad, includ- police, usually with English-speaking stationeding one woman) centres, at tourist D8 C7 C3 E7 E7 D3 E6 D6 E6 E6 E4 E3 E7 E6 C7

50 51 52 53 54 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 (see Media, (see Media, 197. (Map p100 ; p100 (Map lonelyplanet.com % international airport First City First 24hr) Dispenses advice, maps and Satyam Cineplex...... Planet M...... (see 51) Planet M...... (see 47) Roopak's...... (see Sarojini Nagar Market...... (Part I)...... South Extension Market Air Canada...... 47) Inder Motors...... (see Inter State Bus Terminal...... Lalli Motorbike Exports...... (see 47) Thai Airways International...... Lizard Lounge...... Oxygen...... PVR Priya Cinema...... 46) Fab India...... (see Greater M-Block Market...... Greater N-Block Market...... 18) Hauz Khas Village...... (see Market...... South Extension Market TRANSPORT DRINKING ENTERTAINMENT SHOPPING (Part II)...... Delhi's Devils...... (see 51) Delhi's Devils...... (see PVR Anupam 4...... 34) ...... (see Central Market..... h C6 D3 E2 D4 D6 E6 F7 D6 E7 E6 E4 F8 D7 C4 B7 B7 F6 A8 22 23 34 35 36 37 38 39 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 25691171; 23320005/8; www.incredibleindia.org; 88 Janpath; 23320005/8; www.incredibleindia.org; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat); For contact details of Indian regional tourist For contact Indian regional details of % ( % h DANGERS & ANNOYANCES to the city, it’s visitor a first-time If you’re Delhi’s reputation important to remember for con artists and touts. as India’s centre and however, is forearmed, Forewarned, Tourist Information overpriced the many profit-driven, Beware of and others agencies and substandard travel all over posing as ‘tourist information centres’ Delhi. Do not be fooled – head straight to the below. listed tourist office government India Tourist of offices ask at the Government tourist office Office, state government check listings in the back of on ) or dial the operator p91 Tourist Office has a poste-restante to mail is addressed facility; ensure GPO, New Delhi, 110001. The Connaught Pl branch is most poste restante. conveniently located but has no brochures, and can arrange guided tours of Delhi and brochures, tourism- beyond. The Janpath branch also investigates complaints. related (GPO; Map 23320577; 78 Yatri House...... Flavours...... Govinda's...... 28) NYC...... (see 46) Naivedyam...... (see Shalom...... Rail Transport Museum...... Home...... Home Away From Radisson Hotel...... The Manor...... Uppal's Orchid...... Shankar’s International Dolls Shankar’s International EATING SLEEPING Wongdhen House...... Dilli Haat...... 36) Govinda's Sweets...... (see La Piazza...... 46) Park Baluchi...... (see Swagath...... Mutiny Memorial...... Mutiny Museum...... Tughlaqabad...... 32) IDA House...... (see 32) Lhasa House...... (see Master Guest House...... 32) Peace House...... (see Shanti Palace...... 32) White House...... (see % D6 E1 E3 E6 F5 D3 C5 C7 E6 E7 D6 D4 E7 D1 E4 D7 D7 D7 C6 F7 C7 6 7 8 9 1 2 3 4 5 20 21 15 16 17 18 19 12 13 14 10 11 23324446; 2 A-Block, 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat) 9.30am-7pm (Map p100 ; 6 A-Block; 10am- p100 (Map % (Map p100 ; p100 (Map h 23737587; Vandana Bldg, 11 Tolstoy 23737587; Vandana 10am-7pm Mon-Sat) Downloading from New Delhi main post office % h Connaught Pl 23364111; Baba Kharak Singh Marg; (Map p100 ; p100 (Map 9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat) A reliable % DELHI •• Dangers & Annoyances Annoyances & Dangers •• DELHI

h (Map p100 ; p100 (Map 10am-1pm & 1.30-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) The

East West Medical Centre...... Temple...... Moth-ki Masjid...... Hauz Khas Village ...... Jahanpanah...... Lakshmi Narayan Coronation Park...... Bahai Temple...... Akshardam Temple...... Pillar...... Ashtaang...... Shishu Bhavan (Missionaries of Office...... Nirmal Hriday (Missionaries of Foreigners' Regional Registration Foreigners' Regional Citibank ATM...... Bangladeshi Embassy...... Firoz Shah Kotla...... Firoz Shah's Tomb...... Beyond Looks...... Timeless...... Charity)...... Charity)...... Concern India Foundation...... Sciences...... All India Institute of Medical All India SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES INFORMATION

memory card to CD costs Rs 170 for an unlimited amount of photos. Marg; courier option. Janpath, Connaught Pl; Connaught Pl; 7.30pm Mon-Sat); pp102-3 ; h main post office is 500m southwest of Connaught Pl, and Post offices

you can make calls for cheaper than from than from calls for cheaper you can make your hotel. DHL Post & Telephone Post & Telephone kiosks, where telephone of has scores Delhi Kinsey Bros which take 10 minutes. 10 take which Delhi Photo Company cluding digital needs), the following both snap passport photos (four/10 for Rs 70/120), Photography Photography Among the usual photographic services (in- nonprescription glasses available with a one-day service. the room for Also check out the lenses which ‘allow more eyelashes’. 94 DELHI DELHI DELHI

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a L Delhi Train outer walls are oriented exactly in symmetry oriented walls are outer the fort, while the inner walls of with the rest so that it has the correct slightly askew, are toward Mecca. orientation Other Features The Diwan-i-Khas, pal- was the emperor’s private lonelyplanet.com

10am- tower (Drum h hammams Indian War lonelyplanet.com (Covered Bazaar; (Covered Naubat Khana (marble inlay), and the (Map p97 ; admission Rs 2; ; admission Rs 2; p97 (Map

Chatta Chowk Chatta upstairs. The open courtyard be- The open courtyard upstairs. pietra dura pietra The arcade leads to The arcade Moti Masjid Built in 1659 by for his own per- sonal use, this small marble mosque (Pearl Its ) is next to the baths. p97 Mosque; Map 1760 the Marathas removed its silver ceiling, its silver removed 1760 the Marathas former glory. its of and today it’s a shadow Royal Baths the Next to the Diwan-i-Khas are rooms sur- large ), three p97 Map (baths; by , with a fountainmounted in the (one was set up as a sauna).centre The floors once had through panels of illuminated rooms were the roof. glass in coloured Shahi Burj octagonal This modest, three-storey, the of edge ) at the north-eastern p97 (Map working private Jahan’s fort was once Shah used water to flow south From here, area. through the Diwan-i-Khas, the Royal Baths, Rang Mahal. and the the Khas Mahal Diwan-i-Am Diwan-i-Am Public of (Hall This elegant chamber the emperor ) was where p97 Audience; Map from or disputes would sit to hear complaints sethis subjects, and was once with precious following looted were which stones, many of following a restored the 1857 Uprising; it was India, from Lord Curzon, of directive and 1905. between 1898 Diwan-i-Khas marble, this room (Hall white of Constructed ) was the em- p97 Audience; Map Private of In meetingperor’s luxurious private chamber. known as the known once here in the arcade shops ). The p97 Map royal household that the sold items might have jewellery and gold – thoughfancied – silks, they wares. tourist now hawk used musicians to ), where p97 House; Map an There’s emperor. play for the Memorial Museum yond the Naubat Khana once had galleries by removed along either side, but these were fort was usedthe British army when the as its the British of Other reminders headquarters. blocks barrack the three-storey are presence courtyard’s north. to the situated 5pm Tue-Sun)

Ashoka Pillar sunrise-sunset h (Map pp92–3 ), pp92–3 (Map , at the northern end (Map p97 ; Indian/foreigner Rs

(Map p97 ), named for the p97 (Map Red Fort Mutiny Memorial Kashmiri Gate main gate once represented everything glorious once represented DELHI •• Sights Sights •• DELHI

Tickets to the fort are available from the available to the fort are Tickets Shah Jahan began construction of the fort began construction of Jahan Shah

immediately find yourself in the vaulted arcade the vaulted in find yourself immediately to see India’s flag flown atop it; this was finally you the fort here, in 1947. Entering achieved fight against the British. The nationalists wished The fort’s fact that it faces toward Lahore, now in , became a symbol for the nationalist movement’s Lahore Gate. Gate Lahore p97 ) on the plaza to the left of the main the main ) on the plaza to the left of p97 his father in . Aurangzeb himself be- his father in Agra emperor Mughal and last great came the first from here. to rule at the kiosk (Map tourist counter dedicated niving Aurangzeb, who moved his capital here his capital here niving Aurangzeb, who moved deposing and imprisoning after from Agra, in 1638 and it was completed a decade later. a decade later. in 1638 and it was completed sly and con- son, Jahn’s It was actually Shah grand self. Tue-Sun) Tue-Sun) it seems its former a rather forlorn shadow of The sandstone The sandstone video Rs 25; under 15 free, 11/100, children RED FORT (LAL QILA) RED FORT (LAL QILA) (Map pp92–3 ); like the one in Firoz Shah Kotla Shah the one in Firoz ); like pp92–3 (Map Firoz Shah. by ), brought here p99 ( dedicated to soldiers who died during the to soldiers dedicated is an Uprising. Near the monument exist. The desperate the walled city, was the scene of of Delhi duringfighting when the British retook is the here West of the 1857 Indian Uprising. British-erected century walled city of Shahjahanabad (Old Shahjahanabad century walled city of the Red Fort, thoughDelhi) sprawl west from at one time surrounded by a sturdy they were now which fragments of wall, only defensive Old Delhi & Around Old Delhi & Around the 17th- of atmospheric, unruly remains The SIGHTS SIGHTS agencies over the road. Other tricksters may tricksters the road. Other over agencies needs to be stampedinsist your ticket a (for valid – it’s payable to them) before hefty fee may try to convince Still more another scam. to a charge that there’s passengers wait-listed their reservationcheck status for – don’t fall the patter. hard how it, no matter Bureau and attempt to divert you to one of of you to one divert to attempt and Bureau travel unreliable) and often the (overpriced 96 about the peak of the Mughal empire; today, the Mughal empire; about the peak of DELHI DELHI DELHI 99 was 9am-sunset) h (Map pp92-3 ; Indian/

(Map p100 ; Sansad Marg; Indian/for- Shah Kotla

, or Prince of Dials. Other instru- , or Prince of Firoz structures To keep things simple, we’ve used only used only things simple, we’ve To keep is a road teeming with breakneck traffic, and with breakneck is a road teeming accommoda- and hotel cafés, bars plenty of tion. Like the inner circle, it’s divided into the tion. Like from G through blocks: this time, lettered to N. throughout‘Connaught this Pl’ in addresses a Connaught have Place addresses chapter. not but these and a number, block letter are in a uniform way: some es- always presented tablishments use while others ‘50N Block’, adopt ‘N-50’ or other variations. For shopping . p119 see on and around Connaught Place, JANTAR MANTAR stroll south from Connaught Just a short salmon- collection of Place, this impressive coloured eigner Rs 5/100, camera/video Rs 4/25; Singh II’s amazing Jai Maharaja Jaipuri one of observatories.1725 it’s domi- in Constructed looks a lot which sundial, by a huge nated a staircase as known like leading to nowhere, Samrat Yantra heavenly of built to plot the course ments were eclipsesand, though bodies and predict much marble coating has long since the original of it’s well worth a visit, not been reappropriated, learned astronomer. only for the KOTLA FIROZ SHAH Delhi; (the fifth city of Firozabad The ruins of in 1354, can be by Firoz Shah ), erected p89 found at central which makes a makes which (29 Jan) The closing of the celebrations is marked by the Beating of the (Jan/Feb) This event to four days. (Jan/Feb) spans three (15 Aug) India celebrates Independence from Britain (15 Aug) India celebrates Independence in 1947 and the prime minister (Jun) Gardens, includes awesome mango this festival Running for severalTalkatora days at the (26 Jan) At Rajpath, complete with floats, elephants military parade, an impressive incorporating , designed by Robert Tor Tor , designed by Robert DELHI •• Sights (Oct/Nov)about a week at Qutb Minar, runs for classical Indian music and This festival and features sunrise to sunset Tue-Sun) h ( , Republic Day Republic Beating of the Retreat Delhi Flower Show Festival Mango Qutb Festival FESTIVALS IN DELHI IN DELHI FESTIVALS and tickets this year’s details – for variable to are venues and dates festival Delhi’s Some of Diwali ). Delhi celebrates p94 of the ) with particular theatrical renditions During Dussehra, verve. Office of India Tourist ( below, contact the Government listed events p359 and Dussehra ( ) p360 ( held. Ramayana are exhibitions and mango-eating competitions. dance performances. Retreat outside the , also entailing military pageantry. Tickets (from Rs 20 to Rs 50) are available available (from Rs 20 to Rs 50) are Tickets palace, also entailing military pageantry. Retreatoutside the presidential scarcely, for the eventmore and, 100). itself (from Rs the day before, rehearsal for the dress and fly-past. Tickets for ‘grandstand’ viewing positions can be had for Rs 150 to Rs 300 and standing-room for Rs 20 Rs 300 and standing-room for Rs can be had for Rs 150 to for ‘grandstand’ viewing positions and fly-past. Tickets to Rs 50. the nation from the Redaddresses Fort ramparts. The middle circle, known, unsurprisingly, The inner circle (officially known as Rajiv In the centre of the circle is the calm the circle is the calm of In the centre circle (also known as ‘ConnaughtThe outer Chowk, though this name is seldom used) is chain shops, Western with expensive packed buildings at each onto the sides of painted on individual radial road junction, and often establishments’ signs. park in welcome place to sip a takeaway coffee relative peace. as ‘Middle Circle’, is the smallest and least sig- circles, with a backstreet the three nificant of and small hotels of and just a scattering feel eating establishments. Circus’ or ‘Indira Chowk’ but commonly re- Connaught Place), of to simply as part ferred Connaught Place & Around Connaught Place & Around CONNAUGHT PLACE (CP) Delhi is New of heart The geographical Connaught Place imitationRussel of in 1932 in architectural in Bath, England. the famous Royal Crescent Because concen- its composition – three of tric, colonnaded circles with seven radial roads running out from them (for some rea- son known as Radial Rd 2 to 8, rather than to 1 to 7) – it can be a bit confusing at first some method to is though there navigate, the madness. vendors. and street bookshops restaurants, You’ll It’s divided into blocks, from A to F. on from the letter see block you’re which lonelyplanet.com (Map (Map 23311793; in 1964. in 1964. inside it inside it % platform for hire inside; for hire lonelyplanet.com

is the largest in in is the largest (Map p97 ; (Map p97 ; camera/video each each ; camera/video p97 (Map

(Map pp92–3 ), stands), a lone pp92–3 (Map (per person Rs 50)

9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) (Forest of Peace; Map p97 ) p97 Map of Peace; (Forest mosque

h guides non-Muslims 8.30am-12.30pm & 1.45pm-30min non-Muslims 8.30am-12.30pm & 1.45pm-30min h Gandhi Memorial Museum Gandhi Memorial Museum Shanti Vana The Raj Ghat area is now a beautiful park. is now The Raj Ghat area , the first Indian prime the first Nehru, Jawaharlal Visitors should dress respectfully and and respectfully should dress Visitors For Rs 20 it’s possible to climb the southern For Rs 20 it’s possible to Coronation Park Coronation Park Indian rulers, paid homage to Queen Victoria paid homage Indian rulers, Edward VII. and her successor, minister, was cremated just to the north, just to the north, was cremated minister, at Nehru’s daughter, Indira Gandhi, who was in 1984, and grandsons Sanjay assassinated (who died in 1980) and Rajiv (died 1991) were this vicinity. in also cremated The admission free; photos. and contains memorabilia PARK CORONATION field known Old Delhi, in a desolate North of as obelisk commemorating the crowning granite India. V as Emperor of King George of here and It’s hard to imagine that this forgotten in 1877 was the place where, windswept site (cer- and 1903, grandiose durbars theatrical the full setemonial gatherings), featuring of (women must be accompanied by a minaret the views from the top, especially male), where superb. are New Delhi, of the stairs their shoes the top of at remove (pay the shoe-minder Rs 5 upon collection). are There guides who (expensive) fake reported have into paying an entry fee try to fool visitors is free). (mosque admission RAJ GHAT the the Red Fort, on the banks of South of a simple black-marble Yamuna, Gandhi Mahatma where ) marks the spot p97 following his assassination was cremated in 1948. JAMA JAMA MASJID This striking Rs 150; noon-2pm Fri) sunset, closed before extravagance final architectural India and the and not com- begun in 1644 Jahan, Shah of gate- The mosque has three until 1658. pleted standing and two ways, four towers alternating of 40m high, and is constructed sandstone and white red strips of vertical No point is gate The main entry marble. big enough3, the courtyard inside to hold 25,000 people. request accredited identification as travellers identification as travellers accredited request

in in h Sunehri Jain Mandir (Map p97 ) p97 (Map (traditional (traditional re-creates his- re-creates , has it all: noise,

(Map p97 ; admission Rs sound-and-light show 23090921; donations wel- haveli (Map (Map p97 ) mosque, %

here is run by the Jains, who is run by the Jains, here

(Map p97 ; Digambara Jain Temple 9am-6pm) Fatehpuri Masjid (Map p97 ). In 1739 Nadir Shah, ). In 1739 Nadir Shah, p97 (Map Museum of Archaeology h DELHI •• Sights Sights •• DELHI At the eastern (Red Fort) end, there’s the end, there’s (Red Fort) At the eastern Relics from the Mughal era are displayed displayed the MughalRelics from era are in the Mumtaz Mahal, still further south still further south in the Mumtaz Mahal,

Delhi’s inhabitants. this mosque and watched calmly while his calmly while his this mosque and watched of a bloody massacre conducted soldiers the Persian invader, stood on the roof of of invader, stood on the roof the Persian SUNEHRI MASJID SUNEHRI MASJID the Red Fort is the Just south of Masjid century Shah the emperor commissioned by one of is best in-between The stretch wives. Jahan’s tackled either on foot, or by cycle-rickshaw, through adept at weaving are whose drivers packed traffic. scruffiest of street pigeons. The western end of end of The western pigeons. scruffiest street of by the mid-17th- Chandni Chowk is marked comed; believe in the preservation – even the all life of before entering this temple. The this temple. entering before Hospital for Birds 16th-century your shoes and all leather You need to remove bling, intricately carvedbling, intricately frontages. residence) down the centre. You’ll still be able to spot You’ll still be able down the centre. its former glory in some crum- evidence of was a serene street of merchants and expen- merchants of street was a serene canal flowing tree-lined homes, with a sive urge strike. But it was not always so. Once the But it was not always so. strike. urge Mughal Delhi sophistication, this pinnacle of tempting street treats at little, unnamed stalls, treats street tempting particular the and even a McDonalds, should traffic, produce ranging from fear- hassle, and plenty of are beards. There some bras to fake CHANDNI CHOWK CHOWK CHANDNI main congested Old Delhi’s chronically thoroughfare, at the fort. at Tickets are available from the ticket kiosk kiosk from the ticket available are Tickets English 8.30pm Feb-Apr, 9pm May-Aug, 9pm 8.30pm Sep-Oct, English 8.30pm Feb-Apr, no show on Mondays) 7.30pm Nov-Jan, Each evening a one-hour under 3 free; Rs 50/20, children (adults/children Sound-&-Light Show Show Sound-&-Light centre there’s an exquisitely carved an exquisitely there’s marble centre Burj from the Shahi channelled water lotus; to here. used to flow at the 98 along the eastern wall. eastern along the 2) torical events associated with the Red Fort. with the Red Fort. torical events associated DELHI DELHI DELHI

C3 B4 B4 B3 C2 A4 C3 C5 C4 B4 C4 B5 C4 B3 C4 C6 D5 C5 B3 A3 D4 101 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 India Gate (Kingsway) is a focal Rajpath TRANSPORT Royal Nepal Airlines Corporation...... (see 27) Scandinavian Airlines...... (see 19) Shivaji Stadium Terminal...... Singapore Airlines...... Optical Corner of India...... Optical Palika Bazaar...... People Tree...... Depot...... (see 21) Rangarsons Music Rikhi Ram...... Soma...... State Emporiums...... Vedi Tailors...... Aeroflot...... Air France...... Air India...... Delhi Transport Corporation..... 58) El Al Israel Airlines...... (see Emirates...... Ex-Servicemen's Air Link Transport Service...... Gulf Air...... Indian Airlines...... Japan Airlines...... KLM - Royal Dutch Airlines...... 21) Kumar Tourist Taxi Service...... (see Lufthansa Airlines...... 62) Malaysian Airlines...... (see Pakistan International 62) Airlines...... (see Prepaid Autorickshaw Booth..... 58) Qantas...... (see C4 C3 C2 D5 C5 C3 B3 B3 C3 B4 C4 C4 D3 C3 C2 B4 C6 C4 B4 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 At the eastern end of Rajpath is end of At the eastern (Map pp102–3 ), around which families and ), around which pp102–3 (Map on to mill aimlessly, particularly couples like and warm evenings. Designed by weekends ally sought a compromise, creating buildings ally sought a compromise, creating the occasional solidity but with neoclassical local flourish. Though that some might argue synthesisedthe two styles never success- really that New Delhi’s no doubting fully, there’s as impressive commanding edifices remain today as when they formed the focal point of . the RAJPATH Immensely broad on 26 Lutyens’ New Delhi where, point of year, thousands gather to wit- each January parade the Republic Day spectacle the ness of (see p99 ). Lutyens in 1921, it comprises a 42m-high around the names of and bears memorial arch who died in 90,000 Indian army soldiers WWI, the North-West Frontier operations You’ll also see and the 1919 Afghan fiasco. once held a an empty stone platform, which V, now banished to a King George statue of ). p98 ( Park spot in Coronation remote

, , just off , just off DRINKING ENTERTAINMENT SHOPPING EATING Saravana Bhavan...... 19) The Spice Route...... (see United Coffee House...... Veda...... Wenger's...... Zen...... 19) 1911...... (see Agni...... Barista...... Blues...... Costa Coffee...... 44) DV8...... (see Odeon Cinema...... PVR Plaza Cinema...... Regal Cinema...... Central Cottage Industries Emporium...... Handpaper World...... (see 40) Janpath (Tibetan) Market...... Khadi Gramodyog Bhawan...... New Prominent Tailors...... (see 46) Banana Leaf...... Banana Embassy...... 44) Kwality Restaurant...... (see Nizam's Kathi Kabab...... Parikrama...... 21) Sagar ...... (see B3 C3 D5 C2 C5 C4 C2 C5 B3 B3 B3 C3 C4 B5 D3 B2 C3 C3 B6 C2 A6 A5 sunrise-sunset) 9 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 4am-1.30pm & 2.30-9pm) 20 21 22 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 Lakshmi Narayan Temple h h DELHI •• Sights Mandir Marg; INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING DHL...... DSIDC Cyber Café...... English Book Store...... India Tourist Government of Office...... ICICI ATM...... 9) Kinsey Bros...... (see New Book Depot...... Post Office (Branch)...... 19) Thomas Cook...... (see Thomas Cook...... Western Union...... Jantar Mantar...... 56) Malhotra Building...... (see Hotel Blue...... Hotel Fifty Five...... Hotel Jukaso Inn...... Hotel Palace Heights...... Imperial Hotel...... YMCA Tourist Hostel...... York Hotel...... YWCA International Guest House...... American Express...... American Bookworm...... British Council...... 51) Citibank...... (see Citibank ATM...... 8) Delhi Photo Company...... (see

Directly west of Connaught Place is the large Connaught Place is the large west of Directly and welcoming Hindu (Map pp92-3 ; industrialist BD in 1938 by the rich erected Gandhi. Birla and opened in 1939 by Mahatma Lakshmi, to is dedicated The main temple god- while its soothing gardens make wealth, dess of Delhi day. from a respite for serene New Delhi & Around archi- New Delhi, designed by British on 9 , was inaugurated tect 1931 as the new administrative February Though Lutyens empire. the British of centre he eventu- himself Indian architecture, hated foreigner Rs 5/100, video Rs 25; foreigner Bahadur In the fortress- Zafar Shah Marg. palace is a 3rd-century-BC, 13m-high sand- locals burn incense pillar where stone Ashoka nights to appeaseon Thursday the spirits an old of The remains inside. thought to live mosque and a well can also be seen in the area, used for the Firozabad’s ruins were but most of cities. later construction of TEMPLE LAKSHMI NARAYAN MANDIR) (BIRLA lonelyplanet.com

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102 DELHI DELHI DELHI

in in 105 h ( p91 ) museum planetarium 9.30am-1.30pm 23382835; Jaipur 23382835; Jaipur h First City % one of Nehru’s per- Nehru’s one of or 23016734; admission free; 23016734; admission free; on Nehru’s life and and on Nehru’s life . On show are some of some of . On show are % Archaeological Survey of India , formerly the maharaja of of , formerly the maharaja 23014504; 45min show Rs 15; 23010822; Janpath; Time Out Time 23010094; 1 Safdarjang Rd; admission free; 23010094; 1 Safdarjang Rd; admission free; (Map pp102-3 ; . Publications available at this . Publications available

% % % (Map pp102-3 ;

gallery 9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) 9.30am-4.45pm Tue-Sun) 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) In the grounds there’s also a In the grounds there’s Next door is the sive permanent collection, consisting of permanent collection, consisting of sive post-1930s works and representing largely while modern painters, India’s great all of ex- the ground floor is home to changing hibits. Check exhibition listings. for current Nehru Memorial Museum & Planetarium the former residence Murti Bhavan, Teen prime (India’s first Nehru Jawaharlal of Murti Rd, was Teen just off minister), built as Flagstaff House for the British and now houses a commander-in-chief, museum Independence movement. the (Map pp102-3 ; English 11.30am & 3pm Tue-Sun), various wonders holds sonal passions, which including equipment used by India’s first the 1980s. cosmonaut in Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum Indira Prime Minister of The former residence into a Gandhi has been converted (Map pp102-3 ; h belongings, including the sari her personal (with blood stains) she was wearing at the her assassination, as well as newspaper time of and photos, and the clothing clippings, letters sculptures dating back to the Mauryan pe- to the Mauryan dating back sculptures musical mural paintings, and riod, miniature manuscripts, tapestries,instruments, tribal The and plenty more. spears masks, swords, grouped all most important exhibits are an audio floor and, handily, on the ground the ticket in the price of tour is included card, a credit (though you’ll need to leave a It’s well worth or cash deposit). passport, half-day for a rainy wandering, and perfect of monsoon morning. (Map pp102-3 ; & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) in India. main sites all the office cover of Modern Art National Gallery This h displays grandiose Delhi residence, Jaipur’s paintings by than 300 contemporary more housesIndian artists. Upstairs the impres- h Gate; Rs 10/150, photography prohibited; Indian/foreigner 10am-5pm h (Map pp102-3 ; (Map pp102-3 ; (admission free; (admission free;

, built as an ob- , with exhibits 23036727; Sadar Patel 23036727; Sadar Patel % museum is tucked away in the is tucked . Inside you’ll find calm- . Inside you’ll (Mosque of Sher Shah) and, Shah) Sher (Mosque of National Museum 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) DELHI •• Sights (Map pp102-3 ; h

archaeological museum 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) , containing a collection of traditional , containing a collection of museum h 23019272; www.nationalmuseumindia.gov.in; Janpath; 23019272; www.nationalmuseumindia.gov.in; 23371817; Bhairon Marg; admission free; 10am-5pm Mon-Thu) Entry is through the west gate, from which from Entry is through the west gate, In addition to the reconstructed village village In addition to the reconstructed Tue-Sun) to the buyer, all part of artisans selling direct ‘village impressive, yet still very a contrived, life’ complex. a galleries; you’ll also find several well-kept craft shop. library and a nice fixed-price National Museum not far from its junction with On Janpath, Rajpath, is the % Rs 20/300, Rs 10/300, camera Indian/foreigner Indian/foreigner video prohibited; including Indian bronze, terracotta and wood h patterned beautifully Shah’s Sher ing gardens, Qila-i-Kuhran Mosque octagonal the small, red- near the south gate, sandstone tower, the servatory used and later Humayun by emperor descending the stairsas a library. It was while slipped this tower in 1556 that the emperor of died. he later and sustained injuries from which This, sadly, Qila’s only grizzly isn’t the Purana refu- in 1947, Muslim tale: during Partition to to await transport onward here flocked gees them didn’t make many thousands of Pakistan; the way. on it, being slaughtered MUSEUMS & GALLERIES National Philatelic Museum Close to the parliament at Sansad Bhavan, this Chowk, Sansad Marg; prohib- photography admission free, ited; needful – though to be a dedicated you really the experience. to fully appreciate philatelist Crafts Museum Purana due north of Near Pragati Maidan, Qila, is this tranquil % craft demonstrations along with are There lonelyplanet.com Afghantory, the Mughal defeating king ruler control regained Humayun before Humayun, in 1545. India of and beside which Delhi, of good views are there is a small homes is a fantastic indoor museum with stalls displaying rural India’s various crafts. Dak Bhavan post office. There are over 1600 over are There post office. Dak Bhavan every single stamp issued exhibits, covering beauti- since Independence, some extremely E4 E4 F1 F1 F1 F1 E5 E5 E4 G3 G3 G3 D5 G3 G4 D1 E5 B4 E4 A4 F3 F3 E5 E4 F3 E4 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 is known

(Map pp102-3 ; lonelyplanet.com Purana Qila sunrise-sunset) h (Map (Map pp102–3 ) which houses DRINKING SHOPPING EATING ENTERTAINMENT Big Chill...... Café Turtle...... Kamani Auditorium...... Sangeet Natak Akademi...... Shri Ram Centre...... Triveni Kala Sangam...... C Lal & Sons...... Jor Bagh Market...... Khan Market...... Mittal Tea House...... Regalia Tea House...... Sunder Nagar Market...... Bikaner House...... (see 25) Indian Airlines (Safdarjang Airfield Office)...... Maharani Guest House...... Maharani Oberoi...... Family YWCA Blue Triangle Hostel...... All American Diner...... Basil and Thyme...... Chona's...... Fujiya...... Gulati...... Ichiban...... Lodi, The Garden Restaurant..... Mrs Kaur's Premium Cookies.... Pindi Restaurant...... The Kitchen...... E2 F1 D1 C3 C3 G5 G3 C2 D5 C2 C2 C2 E4 G4 E5 D2 E2 E4 D4 G2 F4 B4 G3 D1 H4 F2 C4 E5 D1 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 60 24353178; Mathura Rs 5/110, children Rd; Indian/foreigner North of Rajpath, standing at the end of Rajpath, standingNorth of at the end of the crumbling citadel of the crumbling citadel of % video Rs 25; under 15 free, Mughal in Dehli’s his- a brief interruption viceroy, and required a vast retinue of servants of a vast retinue viceroy, and required to maintain the 340 rooms and extensive 418 were has it that there gardens: legend them boys whose sole alone – 50 of gardeners the birds. away job was to chase is the circular, colonnaded Sansad Marg, Sansad Bhavan watch to keen India’s parliament. If you’re (usu- a parliamentary in progress debate ally in ), contact your embassy in Delhi, who will need to supply you with an introductory letter. PURANA QILA Back India Gate, down Rajpath and east of as the sixth city of Delhi ( p89 ), built in 1533 p89 Delhi ( as the sixth city of It’s said to stand Shah. by Afghan ruler Sher ) and marks p89 Indraprastha ( of on the site

Rashtrapati

(admission free, (admission free, SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SIGHTS SLEEPING National Museum of Natural History...... National Philatelic Museum...... Nehru Memorial Museum...... ...... Nizam-ud-din's Shrine...... Purana Qila...... (President's House)...... Safdarjang's Tomb...... Sansad Bhavan...... Secretariat (North Block)...... Secretariat (South Block)...... Sikander Lodi's Tomb...... SOS Childrens Village...... Tibet House...... Vijay Chowk...... Devna...... (see 60) La Sagrita Tourist Home...... Archaeological Survey Archaeological of India...... ...... Claridges Hotel...... Crafts Museum...... ...... Sahib...... Gurdwara Bangla Hotel Samrat...... Humayun's Tomb...... India Gate...... Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum...... ...... National Institute of Yoga...... National Gallery of Modern Art.. National Museum...... D5 E3 A5 B5 A5 E1 E3 A4 F1 C1 A5 B4 F3 B3 A4 B4 B4 C1 A5 B4 E4 A5 E4 E5 B4 A5 A5 B4 E4 F3 A5 Secretariat buildings 6 7 8 9 1 2 3 4 5 10 11 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 2829 30 TRANSPORT 12 43 Mughal garden , styled on Mughal pleasure , styled on Mughal pleasure (President’s House; Map pp102–3 ), pp102–3 House; Map (President’s DELHI •• Sights Sights •• DELHI Prior to Independence, Rashtrapati Bhavan Prior to Independence, Rashtrapati Bhavan The of the president of of the president of The official residence At the opposite end of Rajpath is end of At the opposite

INFORMATION US Embassy...... Tibet House Library...... (see 58) UK Embassy...... Sri Lankan High Commission..... Swiss Embassy...... Thai Embassy...... New Zealand Embassy...... Pakistani Embassy...... RTDC Tourist Reception Centre.. Nepalese Embassy...... New Delhi Main Post Office (GPO)...... Division)...... Myanmar (Burma) Embassy...... Malaysian Embassy...... Max Mueller Bhavan...... Ministry of Home Affairs (Foreigners Italian Embassy...... 15) Italian Institute of Culture...... (see Japanese Embassy...... India International Centre...... Irish Embassy...... Israeli Embassy...... Guardini Drycleaners...... 64) India Habitat Centre...... (see French Embassy...... Full Circle Bookstore...... German Embassy...... Dr Ram Manohar Lohia Dr Ram Manohar Hospital...... Dutch Embassy...... Canadian Embassy...... India...... Central Bank of 82) Cyber Graphics...... (see Australian Embassy...... 82) Bahri & Sons...... (see Bhutan Embassy...... Alliance Française...... Alliance 104 was the residence of Mountbatten, India’s last Mountbatten, of was the residence Office ( p94 ). between mid-February and early March – for and early March between mid-February India Tourist of contactdates the Government photography prohibited) occupies 130 hec- gardens by Lutyens, which The garden is only open to the public tares. coloured marble, which took 20 years to com- took 20 years marble, which coloured To its west is a plete. in 1929. The palatial building – larger than than in 1929. The palatial building – larger Mughal and – exhibits a blend of Versailles styles, includes the fa- architectural Western with decorated mous 23m-long Hall India, Rashtrapati Bhavan was completed was completed India, Rashtrapati Bhavan domes, they now house the Finance and domes, they now house the Finance and Affairs ministries. External flanked by the two large two large by the flanked sit on a small rise ) which pp102–3 (Map known as Raisina small Hill. Topped with Bhavan DELHI DELHI DELHI Firoz Tibet Tibet 107 offers 24362235; Dr 24362235; Dr % (Map (Map pp92–3 ), (warm oil driz- 26141517; lower ground 8.30am-8.30pm) % h is an old-fashioned is an old-fashioned 24101802; E-2 Anand Niketan; 9910397429; www.lsahomecare sirodhara % (oil-intensive body mas- (oil-intensive (Map pp92–3 ) surrounded pp92–3 (Map % (Map pp102-3 ; , which also sells Tibetan CDs also sells, which Tibetan ( Moth-ki Masjid

(Map pp92-3 ; (Tibetan cloth paintings). (Tibetan (Map (Map pp92–3 ), commemorating village sunrise-sunset) , opposite (South Delhi University , opposite pzhichal (1½ hours costs Rs 500). costs (1½ hours (Map pp92-3 ;

h thangkas is a (legitimate) massage service massage is a (legitimate) that will 9am-6pm) A number of crumbling tombs are scat- crumbling tombs are A number of There’s also a library ( p90 ), and the p90 ( also a library There’s Beyond Looks LSA Homecare ACTIVITIES ACTIVITIES by parkland and centred around a pleasant by parkland and centred former old city of Siri, just east of Hauz Khas Khas Hauz Siri, just east of former old city of is the Village, the finest in the said to be one of Lodi style. Golf Golf Club Delhi 1980/2640 grounds; on institution with well-tended filled pleasingly its fairways are weekends to capacity with Delhi notables, worthies and old-timers. Massage & Ayurvedic Treatments Ashtaang h Ayurvedic authentic Keralan Campus), offers as such treatments, costs Rs 45 minutes zled on the forehead; 1000) and Rs 1200). costs 1¼ hours sage; fl, 15 Poorvi Vihar; Marg, Vasant (one hour costs oil massage an olive/coconut (one hour costs Rs 600) and Rs 400), shiatsu sirodhara .com) room. to pamper you in your hotel arrive Rs 600 to Rs 2000, facials Rs are Massages occupation. Pieces include sacred manuscripts include sacred Pieces occupation. and House Book Corner (Rs 10), incense(Rs 250), postcards (from Rs (Rs 70). flags 25) and prayer Village Hauz Khas This urban deerthe reservoir park, once held for the sec- remains ) – the p89 Delhi – Siri ( ond city of of edge on the western visible are which of Khas is a tiny, chic Today, Hauz the village. with fashionable south-Delhi hideaway, filled and boutiques. art galleries the reservoir about including area, tered Shah’s tomb Delhi, while the fifth city of the founder of a popular it are the woodlands surrounding and joggers destination for early-morning the part of Also canoodlers. late-evening Zakir Hussain Marg; weekdays/weekends foreigners Rs (Map (Map 9am-6pm 9am-6pm 26444029;

(Map pp102- (Map % h , exhibiting (Map ; pp102-3 Lodi

Bara Gumbad museum , in which you can , in which , popular with jog- (Map pp92-3 ;

gardens DELHI •• Activities (Map pp92-3 ; www.akshardham.com; ; www.akshardham.com; pp92-3 (Map Bahai Temple 10am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) 9am-7pm summer, 9.30am-5.30pm winter, closed 9.30am-5.30pm winter, closed 9am-7pm summer, National Bonsai Park , a pink-sandstone white-marble and 6am-8pm; admission free) h h temple 24611515; 1 Lodi Rd; admission Rs 10, photography pro- , stunningly shaped like a white lotus, is a white like shaped , stunningly h Remove your shoes before entering, turn entering, your shoes before Remove % ing interior plasterwork, while if minitrees while if minitrees plasterwork, ing interior gardens, home your thing, head to the are to the It’s especially nice here stroll Gulliver-like. around 6pm, when the sun begins to set, the illuminated, bats to swoop, and the tombs are hiding – from a distance at least – centuries of graffiti. House Tibet House contains a small Tibet 3 ; hibited; when His Tibet brought items out of ceremonial Holiness the Dalai Lama fled following Chinese Kalkaji; Mon) especially spectacular it’s flood- at dusk when lit. It’s set gar- and well-tended among pools to all faiths of dens, and welcomes adherents pray or meditate according to their silently own religion. from speaking. off mobile phones and refrain inside. is prohibited Photography Akshardham Temple extrava- this huge, On Delhi’s outskirts is gant free; National Hwy 24; admission Turning, Tue-Sun) in 2005 and containing edifice inaugurated around 20,000 carved deities. Try to visit dur- ing weekdays, since the manifold attractions (including a musical fountain, a large-screen Values’) of cinema and an animatronics ‘Hall too busy. when it’s not best attempted are SIGHTS OTHER Lodi Gardens In these well-tended Rd; the crumbling are alike, and young lovers gers a string of 15th- and 16th-century tombs of including Mubarak Sayyid and Lodi rulers, (d 1433), Ibrahim Lodi (d 1526) and Shah Sikander Lodi (d 1517). The the gardens is a of ) at the centre pp102–3 15th-century tomb that sports some interest- lonelyplanet.com information in at the and stop your head, up a free to pick the entrance near centre registered guide. Bahai Worship () House of This 1986

24hr) (Map

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(Map pp102-3 ; Ashoka Rd; pp102-3 (Map

Safdarjang’s tomb (devotional singing),

at the western end of end of at the western shrine temple

Sikh , with its striking golden domes, sunrise-sunset) h sunrise-sunset) Other tombs in the area include the include the area Other tombs in the and Fridays (from On most Thursdays h the eighth Sikh where at the site is constructed Dev, stayed when he visited guru, Harkrishan tankDelhi in 1664. The temple contains water healing properties; locals still believed to have drink from it, though you might want to give conservatively, that a miss. Dress covering Safdarjang’s Tomb Safdarjang’s Tomb The mid-18th-century ; Aurobindo Marg; video Rs 5/100, Indian/foreigner pp102-3 Rs 25; Avadh Lodi Rd was built by the nawab of the for his father, Safdarjang, and is one of created last examples of empire the great of the final remnants before and frothy it’s an ornate such, collapsed. As all that was glorious and grand of reminder the Mughals. about TEMPLES Gurdwara Bangla Sahib Delhi’s largest lattice screens. Amir Khusru,imprisonment by Aurangzeb. by Nizam-ud-din and considered disciple of poet, Urdu many to be the first also has his Nizam-ud-din’s just in front of tomb here, own mausoleum. around 2pm to 8pm), the shrine plays host to hypnotic Qawwali accompanied by a harmonium and tabla a heady soundtrack with drums, providing to imbibe the land-that-time-forgot which district of the tightly packed of atmosphere shrine itself. Nizamuddin surrounding the eventually create the magnificence of Agra’s Agra’s of the magnificence eventually create Begum beside her is buried Haji Mahal. Taj who for a woman fitting reward husband, a its construction, overseeing camped outside, was complete. until it Nizam-ud-din’s Shrine Humayun’s tomb, offAcross from Mathura Rd, is the popular Sufi saint Muslim the great and tank of who died in 1325, Nizam-ud-din Chishti, dates incarnation 92. Its present aged from 1562, and comprises a marble build- surrounded by ing, with the inner tomb later grave of Princess Jahanara, favourite favourite Princess Jahanara, of grave later who stayed with Jahan, Shah of daughter Fort during his Red her father in Agra’s

10am- museum h houses houses (Map pp92- (Map , built for , built for will be a hit museum 25053646; Sulabh Complex, sunrise-sunset) % 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) (Map pp102-3 ; Indian/foreigner

h h 9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) 9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) tomb 23314849; 2nd fl, FICCI Auditorium, Tansen Auditorium, Tansen 23314849; 2nd fl, FICCI h % houses a small, intriguing collec- (Off Map pp92-3 ; pp92-3 (Off Map

DELHI •• Sights Sights •• DELHI 26880939; Chanakyapuri; Rs admission Rs 10, children %

106 dens – were to be refined over the years to the years over to be refined dens – were bous and surrounded by formal gar- his Persian-born senior wife. Elements in its senior wife. his Persian-born design – a squat building with high arched entrances that let in light, topped by a bul- Rs 10/250, video Rs 25; Begum, him in the mid-16th century by Haji Humayun’s Tomb Emperor Humayun had this impressive early-Mughal TOMBS & SHRINES TOMBS & SHRINES 2500 BC guided A free to modern times). to life. tour brings the loos tion of toilet-related paraphernalia (from paraphernalia (from toilet-related tion of museum Sulabh International Museum of Toilets Toilets of Museum Sulabh International this quirky the city centre, Southwest of 100-year-old monorail steam train that runs train that runs monorail steam 100-year-old as the on Sundays, and various oddities such a mail train an elephant that charged skull of in 1894, and lost. It’s an especially fun place round and round on for kids, who can travel (an extra Rs train ride steam the miniature or paddle out onto 10/5 for adults/children), kayaking pond. the 3, video Rs 100; train, an unusual personal Mysore’s of haraja 3 ; Housing almost 30 locomotives and some and some Housing almost 30 locomotives this old carriages, interesting Rail Transport Museum Rail Transport Museum earth. Other exhibits include stuffedearth. Other exhibits include armadil- yak, making it a curiously los and a Tibetan or so. place to spend an hour diverting largest land animal ever to have roamed the land animal ever to have largest Marg; admission free; Although nothing to rave about, this about, this Although rave nothing to (Map pp102-3 ; National Museum of Natural History of Natural History Museum National her son, Rajiv,her son, was he too wearing when was out, you’ll the way in 1991. On assassinated, walked pass an enclosed she garden in which her by two of she was shot moments before Sikh path has been bodyguards. The covered in crystal; the portion marks the clear glass collapsed.she spot where some noteworthy fossils such as the 160- fossils such some noteworthy a sauropod, the of femur million-year-old 5pm Mon-Sat) Mahavir Dabri free; Rd; admission Enclave, Palam with railway buffs. Exhibits include the ma- DELHI DELHI DELHI 109 Clean ) 23289923; 23289923; a 23242691; s/d % % place to tap into 23581965; Tooti Chowk, the (Map p97 ; % Very rudimentary, rudimentary, Very

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One of the most appealing choices the most appealing choices One of In the following budget listings, only the In the following budget Hotel New City Palace Hotel Bombay Orient Hotel Navrang Most backpackers base themselves in base in themselves Most backpackers Paharganj isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, with its tea, isn’t everyone’s cup of Paharganj NORTH DELHI Old Delhi stay Old Delhi since it’s gen- in travellers Few erally easier to be basednear the amenities of or Connaught Place, but for those Paharganj reasonable a couple of are to, there who wish Masjid. Jama near the hotels 725 Jama Masjids/d Rs 250/350; Motor Mkt; though rooms but still bet- claustrophobic the than most other Old Delhi cheapies; ter and and AC, windows pricier rooms have on tap. hot water plenty of there’s Rs 350/450) Area Paharganj for drugs and shady characters. reputation Nevertheless, it’s walking distance from New Delhi train station and is budget network. Most the busy backpacker nondescript, poorly ventilated offer hotels and sun-starved Bazaar rooms on the Main main drag, or in the numerous (nameless) off it. alleys snaking Main Bazaar; s/d Rs 100/120) cell-like and dreary. The truly diabolical, diabolical, The truly and dreary. cell-like to home damp, mouldy, may be meanwhile, suspicious stains walls, or on the bed-linen, even On the plus side, however, the ceiling. new ventures with choice, of plenty there’s care- of all the time, so with a bit opening up be able and poking, you should ful prodding as well as to suit your taste to find something your budget. enclave a bustling, tourist-oriented Paharganj, near New Delhi train station. For something mellow, but not nearly as central, more much Here, Colony. the Tibetan Tilla, try Majnu-ka cosiergenerally low but the hotels the prices are time in Delhi, If it’s your first than in Paharganj. from a bit disconnected however, you may feel hard to find, is quite the action, and the enclave at night. arriving especially if you’re been given; have room rates non-AC cheapest, cost around available, rooms, where the AC rupees more. several hundred in the area; ensure, though, that you look at ensure, in the area; newer and much are rooms, as some a few than others. nicer 9873130383; 28741089; R- 26891223; Rs 26891223; Rs Runs tours Runs tours % % % ( p94 ) Can ar- p94 ( DELHI •• Tours 23273821; 4/15 Asaf Ali Former street chil- Former street % (Map pp92-3 ;

(contact Shekhar This guesthouse ( p112 ) p112 This guesthouse (

(Map p97 ;

(Contact Kanchan

9am fortnightly on Sat) h 2½hr walks 10am daily) 2½hr walks 10am Operating from the hotel ( p111 ), two- p111 ( Operating from the hotel h Master Guest House Many hoteliers urge travellers to call or to call or travellers urge hoteliers Many Salaam Balak Trust Salaam Balak Discover Delhi Hotel Broadway with a minimum tariffHotels Rs 500 of may have a ‘fixed’ dollar rate that differs from that differs dollar rate a ‘fixed’ may have day. Taxes the of rate the actual exchange chapter in this included in the reviews aren’t private have and all rooms unless indicated, otherwise stated. bathrooms unless email to confirm their reservation 24 hours complain that owners arrival (hotel before don’t bother calling to cancel, just travellers complain that their as travellers as frequently honoured). always bookings aren’t hotel Budget places to stay is de- of bunch Delhi’s budget with rooms typically small, cidedly lacklustre, Rs 200; streets you out into the Paharganj take dren both to introducing you they know intimately, children and to the street the neighbourhood for survival. who fight there 300 incl snack; Delhi, for historic through various parts of four to 14, guided by an edu- aged children social activist. cational and Rd; Rs 495) Old Delhi of tours’ hour ‘gastronomic walking ). p113 (see at Chor Bizarre include lunch 500 New Rajendra Nagar) as ‘Hidden – such personalised tours offers Delhi’ (includes Old Delhi) – with a knowl- the rupee cost equiva- Tours guide. edgeable includes breakfast US$15, which lent of and snacks. SLEEPING wise in advance as Delhi’s to book a room It’s most salubrious places can fill up in a flash, for commis- new arrivals easy prey leaving ). During the low season p95 sion sharks (see room dis- to mid-August) (around mid-April negotiable. often at least 20% are counts of a 12.5% luxury tax. Some places, espec- charge whack on also the range, ially at the top end of an additional service 6% to 10%); (of charge dollars in too, that those charging beware, Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book TOURS GovernmentTourist of India Office government-approved multilingual, range Rs 350/500 for a half-/full-dayguides for people). five (maximum

noon- , with 8am-6pm 8am-6pm h Delhi Zoo ( p107 ), ( p107 ), , the big- h ( p106 ), the Ashtanga, yoga- lonelyplanet.com ( p107 ), and the National Museum of 26513400) Twice- in front of Purana Purana in front of % 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) ( r boat for 30 mins; Lodi Gardens Lodi Gardens h 9871930150) ( opposite ) runs fortnightly ) runs fortnightly opposite ( % ( listings ( p91 ). p91 listings ( ( p106 ), p106 ( 23316970; Nehru House, 4 Bahadur Shah ( p106 ) might amuse some chil-

Hauz Khas Village Shankar’s International Dolls Museum Rail Transport Museum ( p104 ; Rs 40 pe p104 (

% Time Out Time Discover Delhi For a day outdoors, head first to head first For a day outdoors, For indoor activities, the ( p112 ) – with their powerful AC and comfy their powerful) – with and comfy AC p112 ( lates (a yoga-Pilates combo) and other classes, taught by a lates (a yoga-Pilates London-trained expert. Zafar Marg; admission Rs 10; than 80 countries, will 6500 dolls from more Connaughta Place has appeal to others. and stalls bookshops, toy shops number of the flash- selling and of things both edifying ing, squealing variety, along with a legion of eating options. Western-style child-friendly (Map pp102-3 ; Indians/foreigners Rs 10/50; ; Indians/foreigners pp102-3 (Map in winter) in summer, 9am-5pm Sat-Thu Sat-Thu a sorry (though zoo in India in quite gest Bengal Much white tigers. with rare state), fun than the zoo, though, is the 1950s- more throwback at Qila. between ages the city for children the of tours and 14. four of Natural History while dren, (Map pp92-3 ; Sushumna Studio MeditationTushita Centre DELHI FOR CHILDREN Delhi might not seem the obvious Though a wealth destination for tiny people, there’s both big and small. activities to entertain of activities on offer: have often Cultural centres check meditation. There’s Vedic chanting on some evenings and Vedic meditation. There’s classes too. Pilates weekly Tibetan/Buddhist meditation sessions. weekly Tibetan/Buddhist boating lake 7pm summer, 11am-6pm winter) Safdarjang’s tomb Safdarjang’s

( p125 ). ( p126 ), p126 ( 23010211; top-end hotels (Map are three three are %

(Map pp102-3 ; ( p118 ) are also terrific spots to beat the summer heat without without spots to beat the summer heat also terrific ) are p118 ( ( p98 ). Radisson Hotel metro system Qutb Minar , the Giggle yourself to well-

Raj Ghat

(Map pp102-3 ; cineplexes 24101802; E-2 Anand Hotel Samrat (rotation exercises, yoga and (rotation exercises, % ( p106 ), and 27217164) 26962757) Yoga classes (1¼ hours) (www.dhyanfoundation.com) ( p117 ) open around noon and provide cool respite, in both senses of the word. both senses of the word. in cool respite, around noon and provide ) open p117 ( % % ( ( p107 ) and ( bars sanatan kriya 23730417; www.yogamdniy.com; 68 Ashoka Claridges Hotel (Map pp92-3 ; pp92-3 (Map % Delhi’s modern AC Delhi’s modern AC During hotter months, the bars at months, the During hotter DELHI •• Courses Courses •• DELHI

26110606; Chanakyapuri; per person Rs 300) spending a fortune. Movie ticketsspending a fortune. 50 to Rs 150, and that all-important range from Rs Movie popcorn Rs 50. will set you back around If a frothy iced-coffee would do the trick, Connaught Place is well equipped ( p117 ), while if you ), while if you p117 Place is well equipped ( would do the trick, Connaught If a frothy iced-coffee plump for the AC hassle of yet another autorickshaw negotiation, just can’t face the heat and comfort of the underground interiors – offer revitalising havens, worth the inflated prices for a reviving tipple. Likewise, many Likewise, many tipple. worth for a reviving prices havens, the inflated revitalising – offer interiors of Delhi’s Hauz Khas FAR FROM THE MADDING CROWD CROWD THE MADDING FROM FAR touts, there traffic snarls and pesky summer heat, frazzled by Delhi’s oppressive If you find yourself grounds of chill out in the pleasant In the cooler months, solace. spots to steal some scenic are Humayun’s tomb

108 combine asanas (fixed body positions), pranayama and combine asanas (fixed Studio Abhyas Morarji Desai National Institute of Yoga Laughter Yoga pp102-3 ; Rd) Includes pranayama and hatha yoga, meditation, diploma courses. and variousstress-management Dhyan Foundation donations are appreciated. donations are Ashtaang Telephone for session timings and, if not for session timings and, if not Telephone Meditation & Yoga no fees, are there Where stated below, venues. the-minute details of various courses. various details of the-minute COURSES COURSES publications containing up-to- for p91 See ( p113 ; per person Rs 500) p113 ( % amount). 12 Aurangzeb Rd; per person Rs 900) restricted to guests. Some of the more modest modest the more to guests. Some of restricted (for a stout permit outsiders hotels upmarket Deluxe hotels have the best pools but they’re the best pools but they’re have hotels Deluxe to Rs 2700. Swimming 1800 to Rs 2700, and nails and waxing Rs 650 1800 to Rs 2700, and nails meditation). Check the website for details and various phone numbers. Delhi branch Meditation classes plus one-day workshops introducing participants to being with an early-morning laughter yoga session in one Delhi’s parks. of Niketan; hatha yoga, 1hr Rs 500) Beginner and advanced meditation. including to try. DELHI DELHI DELHI 111 ) 23561794; Serenity ) Unusually a % Its business Its business ) ai a 23273821; broadway@ 23562811; vidur109@hot 51541435; 1534-1550 Main (Map p110 ;

23625563; www.yatrihouse Recently renovated, Recently renovated, ) 23581930; [email protected] % % % % % ai (Map p97 ;

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Good rooms (some with balcony) ) a Broadway’s great Chor Bizarre restaur- Bizarre Chor Broadway’s great ) Metropolis Tourist Home Vivek Hotel Vivek Hotel Hotel Relax all else fails, with a roof terrace of sorts and sorts of terrace all else a roof fails, with the inaptly named Avoid hot water. reliable Bright downstairs. Hotel Bazaar; d Rs 1000-1850; a its guests with tries hard to provide Vivek double rooms come comfortable stay. Many with bathtub and the owner’s own line in is especially decent. headboards, and the suite serves), up on the roof, a p114 Sam’s Café ( dishes. of hearty line-up mail.com; Nehru Bazaar; d Rs 1200; of-cards, curiously, proclaim that this hotel ‘day and night service’.fers The knick-knack filled hallways belie standard, spartan rooms, a good place to sit and but the balconies make go by. bazaar life watch Main 1634 Bazaar; d Rs 1200- [email protected]; 1500; with TV, and clean bathrooms that fridge natural light than most other more receive also a pleasant There’s hotels. Paharganj ). p114 ( restaurant rooftop West of Paharganj House Yatri Marg;.com; 3/4 Panchkuian s/d Rs 3000/3500; Bazaar, Main of from the madness just steps this guest- Marg, Panchkuian on a lane off lawn, open-air courtyard house boasts a green Midrange Midrange NORTH DELHI Old Delhi Hotel Broadway 1500/2595; 4/15 Asaf Ali Rd; s/d Rs oldworldhospitality.com; a thrilling than the rooms more ) are p109 ( certainly though slightlywhich, gloomy, are well kept. clean and Area Paharganj Prince Polonia Prince Polonia’s rooms most of for the area, and some even equipped with windows, are The staff balconies. go so far as to have are to please,friendly and keen most rooms have TVs and there’s at decoration, and attempts is an which beside restaurant, a nice rooftop empty swimming pool, sadly closed by order the authorities. of ant ( p113 ) and ‘gastronomic walking tours’ ‘gastronomic walking tours’ ) and p113 ant ( .net.in; 2325 Tilak Gali; s/d Rs 900/1000; .net.in; 2325 Tilak ) 23562478; Hidden All the ) a % a 23816689; wong Down a little % 23939415; d AC/4th/ DELHI •• Sleeping 23589010; d Rs 500-550; 23589010; d Rs 23813944; d Rs 250; 23813944; d Rs % 23939777; d Rs 350; 23939777; d Rs (Map p110 ;

23813960; d Rs 250) % % % 23416666; hotelblue@indiatimes % (Map pp92-3 ;

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momos (Map pp92-3 ; pp92-3 (Map ai Away from the flurry of Main Bazaar, Main of Away from the flurry ) ) ) Also recommended are: Also recommended Wongdhen House Major’s Den House Peace Hotel Rak International a in its ground-floor restaurant. in its ground-floor IDA House Lhasa House White House CENTRAL DELHI Connaught Place Area Hotel Blue .com; 2nd fl, M-126; s/d Rs 800/1200, without bathroom Rs 600/800; tition. Though modest, they’re generally clean generally tition. Though modest, they’re is efficient. and the management a sparse and basic, extremely the rooms are by to some extent, but this is made up for, retired the spritely of presence the charismatic and who is exceed- on site, who lives Major system. hot-water his solar ingly proud of Majnu-ka Tilla Lines, Civil of north Alongside the Yamuna, the also known as is this peaceful enclave lo- Colony. Not nearly as centrally Tibetan but with better-value as Paharganj, cated all if you’re perfect rooms and less hype, it’s cheap of a sprinkling Delhi-ed out. There’s centres. internet and shops eateries, Tibetan [email protected]; s/d from Rs 200/275; an alleyway, this is the towards the bottom of welcoming weary bunch, the area’s pick of with its sizable rooms, courteous travellers sporting staff terrace rooftop breezy and a cooks restaurant views. The River Yamuna 40) to (Rs everything from banana pancakes sha phing Rs 50). 3rd/2nd/1st fl Rs 725/175/275/325/325) spot, the hotel’s hard to and quite side street rather STD’ ‘Peace reads sign mysteriously plain but neat rooms It offers than ‘hotel’. of a nice plate strikes, and whenever hunger steamed Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book place generally pink, and the shade of cheerful feedback. traveller good very gets Tooti Chowk, Main Bazaar; s/d Rs 300/400; windows, popular option have rooms at this the compe- of much a cut above making them a floor, its 13 rooms are an acceptable choice if an acceptable choice floor, its 13 rooms are

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110 Bazaar; s/d from Rs 200/300) are notably sunlight deprived. notably are 200/250; but some cool tiled walls and floors, and have [email protected]; T-298 Main Bazaar; s/d Rs T-298 [email protected]; worn rooms are in pretty good shape (for good shape (for in pretty worn rooms are a and there’s it’s fairly cosy, Paharganj), rooftop restaurant. [email protected]; 1572 Main Bazaar; s/d Rs 200/250) Delhi’s lowest. bucketful for Rs 10, and the prices are among Rs 10, and the prices are for bucketful cell-like rooms (especially the singles), rooms (especially the singles), cell-like by the water hot but it’s friendly, there’s DELHI DELHI DELHI )

– In In a 113 pan- 11am- h 7am-midnight; 7am-midnight; 23273821; Hotel 23273821; Hotel (Indian flat (Indian flat h % 23273661; 3704 Netaji 23273661; 3704 Netaji % sharabi kababi kababi sharabi (cauliflower) and (Map p97 ; parathas Rs 30-40) p97 (Map

noon-3.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm; (Map p97 ; gobi

(Map p97 ; h Though a bit shabby around the Though a bit shabby ) (Map p97 ; 16 Gali Kebabian, Jama Masjid; p97 (Map a

(potato), Iconic Karim’s has been delighting has been delighting Iconic Karim’s 23269880; mains Rs 75-180; 23269880; mains Rs 75-180; ) (unfermented cheese), all served cheese), (unfermented with Paratha Wali GaliParatha Moti Mahal Chor Bizarre midnight; which Rs 150/285), chicken (half/full chicken outside, in especially good when eaten tastes courtyard. large summer, in the Broadway, 4/15 Asaf Ali Rd; mains Rs 115-250, veg/nonveg thalis Rs 260/325; in and Mughlai fare Wonderful Kashmiri car that a vintage quirky surrounds – there’s serves as a salad bar, and even a four-poster The bed as a table. sauce – cream-and-tomato in a rich chicken is divine. QUICK EATS All along Chandni Chowk, you’ll find stalls out both sweet treats. and savoury churning you pick a popular one, checking sure Make you, of in front that the food’s being cooked any problems. and you shouldn’t have the CentralChowk, opposite Bank. Come on to feast here as spiced stuffed with fillings such bread) aloo eer simple curries. fitness centre and a few smart restaurants smart restaurants and a few centre fitness (see p117 ). EATING eating pocket, and Catering to every palate is a highlight.Delhi The following rec- out in the culinary scratch barely ommendations has on offer: what the city surface of don’t just follow your nose to and the local – forget your own discover in-the-know crowds – to heaven. of slice Old Delhi & Around RESTAURANTS Karim’s its flavoursome, since 1913 with Delhiites heavy nonvegetarian, predominantly a city institu- really Mughlai It is cuisine. the hunt to tion and worth every second of Ramadan,find the place; during opens it after sunset. % a Subhash Marg, Daryaganj; mains Rs 100-225; edges, this is another great Delhi institution. this is another great edges, succulent butter for its It’s particularly noted a lane just behind Ghantewala, off Chandni off Chandni Ghantewala, a lane just behind )

) ais ais 25061515; www This world-

) (Off Map pp102-3 ; pp102-3 (Off Map 26779191; www.radis 23341234; www.the DELHI •• Eating % % www.shantipalace.com; www.shantipalace.com; % 24363030; www.oberoidelhi ais 5732675; s/d Rs 5450/6600; 5732675; s/d Rs 5450/6600; % pp92-3 ; % (Map pp92-3 ; (Map p100 ;

(Map pp92-3 ; (Map Tucked away in upscale New New away in upscale Tucked

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On the edge of the Delhi Golf Club, of On the edge Billing itself as an ‘environmentally ) ) (Map pp102-3 ;

This place receives good reports good reports This place receives ) ai 26112233; [email protected]; Sardar Oberoi The Manor Uppal’s Orchid Radisson Hotel Maurya Sheraton Hotel & Towers Imperial Hotel Airport Area Airport Area Shanti Palace op- comfy, convenient as a from travellers or following an early departure tion before arrival. red-eye a .uphalsorchidhotel.com; National Highway 8; d from $US200; ais comfortable this is another conscious ecotel’ the airport. near top-end choice son.com/newdelhiin; National Hwy 8; d US$225; a rooms, there’s Apart from its 256 stylish US$220; this place mightFriends Colony, not have the of facilities the extensive the hype or is, for instance, usual top-end joints (there this up for than makes no pool) but it more food and tip-top service.in intimacy, great for a great in particular, makes The suite, comfy beds, stay, equipped with sculptures, TVs the biggest and one of you may have ever seen. .com; Dr Zakir Hussain Marg;US$346/383; s/d from ais high marks. Discerning the Oberoi scores service it especially and elegant rooms make people. business popular with % Marg; d from US$420; Patel has carvedclass hotel a name for itself as one top-notch of finest,with a range Delhi’s of facilities, including a health club, business ). Bukhara and two excellent restaurants, centre, p115 (see ) and Dum Pukht p115 ( fine old Delhi at this exceptionally the rates Art-Deco jewel continue to climb steeply, to sample its expensive making it ever more and top-class service.sumptuous interiors It’s worth dropping in for a drink or dinner, though, if the tarrifs seem ridiculous more than sublime. Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book Eat attached. tandoori restaurant and a terrific down gazing whilst a complimentary breakfast Connaughtat the early morning Place action. trav- as well, for people Highly recommended, elling with children. ai National Highway 8; imperialindia.com; Janpath; d from US$495; 4352610; Small, ) ) Owned % (Map p100 ; 26560289; 1st a a

) Though this 23321244; book 23321244; book % the pet basset 23415450; jukaso@ % % (Map p100 ; ai 23415769; K-Block; s/d Rs 23415769; K-Block; % 24355047; 10 Sunder Nagar; d (Map pp92-3 ;

(Map p100 ; % Formerly known as Ten, Formerly known as Ten, (Map p100 ; )

At last – a comfortable, cen- Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book With the same institutional ) ) (Map p100 ; A ’70s survivor and with brown )

ai Hotel Heights Palace ai ai a (Map pp102-3 ;

23361561; www.ywcaindia.org; 10 Sansad Marg;23361561; www.ywcaindia.org; s/d Rs Hotel Jukaso Inn o Hotel Fifty Five YWCA International Guest House York Hotel 5000/5500; with top-end serv-tral and welcoming hotel, ice without the exorbitant prices. The rooms might and scraping the upper edge be smallish well very but they’re the mid-price category, of showers with powerful hot-water decorated, by Mrs Kamte – who lives on site and keeps and keeps on site – who lives Kamte by Mrs just are the place in tiptop condition – there tastefully each two warm, clean rooms here, furnished. Hush and Puppy, tummy tickle. a hounds, appreciate Top End Devna from Rs 5000; lovely, guesthouse has five this diminutive friendly rooms and extremely antique-filled in Without doubt the best choice owners. homely touches, Sunder Nagar for its personal to enter be sure wi-fi; and free atmosphere through the right-hand so as not to end gate, house. neighbours’ up in the D26-28 Connaught Pl; s/d Rs www.hotelpalaceheights.com; [email protected]; H-55; s/d Rs 2300/2800; [email protected]; H-55; s/d Rs sim- 15 rooms are warm and friendly, the ter- nice rooftop a ple and clean, there’s service airport pickup race, reliable and free luggage storage. s/d Rs 3000/3850; vsnl.com; L-Block; rooms, renovated place has decent, recently TVs,even flat-screen equipped with small buf- and a breakfast internet wireless free for its from travellers bad reviews it gets fet, unfriendly staff. SOUTH DELHI Home Away from Home s/d from Rs 1375/1575; fl, D-8 Gulmohar Park; and dinner; there’s a pool and a gym for an gym for an pool and a a there’s and dinner; extra fee. % 1556/1980; certainly the rooms are the YMCA, as feel and secure but they’re nothing exciting relatively clean. 1800/2950; rooms are you look. The everywhere beige but functional and clean, plain and sparse, a Try to get flooring. some with new laminate traffic noise. on ‘backside’ room to cut down

) 2435 2435 ai % 24359521; % (Map pp102-3 ; 28741089; www

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Open to both sexes, you you Open to both sexes, ) This calm residential guesthouse, This calm residential ) ai A warm and friendly option, its rooms ) a DELHI •• Sleeping Sleeping •• DELHI 23360133; [email protected]; Ashoka Rd; s/d Rs Maharani Guest House La Sagrita Tourist Home

112 some are dingy. All rates include tax, breakfast include tax, breakfast dingy. All rates some are tel takes both genders (Rs 30 membership; (Rs 30 membership; both genders takes tel valid for one month); see several rooms, as ndf.vsnl.net.in; Jai Singh Rd; s/d Rs 1150/2000, without Jai Singh Rd; s/d Rs 1150/2000, without ndf.vsnl.net.in; bathroom Rs 750/1400; Connaught Place Area Connaught Place Area YMCA Tourist Hostel room service up for the lack of to make a restaurant. boast wooden floors, comfortable furniture comfortable furniture boast wooden floors, 24-hour and nice, clean bathrooms. There’s 8572; www.lasagrita.com; 14 Sunder Nagar; s/d Rs 3690/4090; ai less claustrophobic. decide (avoid the damp underground ones); the damp underground decide (avoid airier and generally are the higher floors atmosphere, this hotel is a veritable rabbit rabbit is a veritable this hotel atmosphere, you rooms before Check out a few warren. With clean, comfortable rooms lacking in With clean, comfortable rooms lacking in The leafy, upmarket suburb of Sunder Nagar suburb of The leafy, upmarket Place. Connaught is about 3km southeast of Sunder Nagar Sunder Nagar commendable, if a tad and the tightly packed, a linger- also nice, despite rooms are private All rates fragrance à la mothball. ing hint of and breakfast. include tax must become a temporary member (Rs 20, must become a temporary valid for one month) to stay. The dormitory is CENTRAL DELHI CENTRAL DELHI Road Ashoka HostelYWCA Blue Triangle Family runs tours of ‘Hidden Delhi’ (see p109 ). p109 (see ‘Hidden Delhi’ of runs tours (pick from ‘Moghul’, ‘Krishna’ and ‘Ganesh’, comfortable.‘Lucky’), all clean and Avnish Hospital Rds crossing is run by a friendly Hospital Rds crossing is run by a friendly rooms just four homely are There couple. located near the Shankar and Ganga Ram near the Shankar located Master Guest House Rajendra Nagar Area Area Rajendra Nagar far the best of the bunch for its price range; it’s its price range; for the bunch far the best of popular; reservationsalso very – well ahead strongly advised. time – are of and well-kept, nicely decorated rooms. For rooms. decorated nicely and well-kept, it’s by area, and the surrounding Paharganj 1136/1975; % .master-guesthouse.com; New Rajendra R-500 d from Nagar; Rs 1850; [email protected]; 3 Sunder Nagar; s/d Rs 2700/3300; DELHI DELHI DELHI

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a dum 115 10.30am- ) Decked Decked noon-12am; h ) Its cuisine a h 26112233; Maurya a 26112233; Maurya Award-winning )

% (Map pp102-3 ; Lodi Rd; (a tomato-and- % a 7am-11pm; h khadhai 11am-11.30pm; (Map pp102-3 ; India Habitat Centre, (Map pp102-3 ; Santushti Shopping Shopping ; Santushti pp102-3 (Map

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7.30-11.45pm daily, 12.30-2.45pm Sat & Sun; (Map pp102-3 ; mains Rs 100-300; pp102-3 (Map

h Incredibly popular with locals, this place Incredibly ) 12.30-2.45pm & 7-11.45pm; Dum Pukht Lodi, The Garden Restaurant Basil & Thyme Bukhara 1000; offering. Another highly acclaimed Sheraton in a cooked are The delectable dishes here with a pastry stew slow-cooked style, a sort of lid. Reservations advised. any time) are (taken LODI COLONY All American Diner Lodi Rd; mains Rs 150-250; out in true diner style right down to the tunes, this place serves US classics from buttermilk malts to hot dogs and peanut-butter pancakes onion rings. and mains Rs 200-400; Lodi Garden. One hit is the mezze platter, piled high with tabbouleh, hummus and aubergine salad. MARKET PANDARA Gulati a hits its two top Punjabi dishes, does great and being butter Rumour has chilli-infused masala) chicken. it, too, that you might bump into a couple of Fujiya servesFujiya Chinese Japanese and some the diplomatic of district in a serene dishes lamb, Szechwan it’s Peking Whether enclave. diners with vegetables, or roast tofu chicken, No reservations disappointed. rarely are are early. arrive so taken 6pm Mon-Sat; with the menu is packed deli dishes; Western as asparagus tarthome comforts such and salmonpasta dill, though, and with smoked you’ll be here, ladies who lunch the society like the privilege. paying fairly substantially for Marg; Rs 495-695; mains Sheraton Hotel & Towers, Sadar Patel h Bukhara serves cui- North-West Frontier–style considered generally sine with aplomb, and is anyone Almost best restaurant. Delhi’s very including Bill – here who’s anyone has eaten – making reservations and Mick Jagger Gates between taken essential; much they are pretty 8pm daily. 7pm and Sheraton Hotel & Towers, Sadar Patel Marg; mains Rs 680- Sheraton Hotel & Towers, Sadar Patel Complex, Chanakyapuri; mains Rs 235-265; gets varied reports, but this pleasant eatery, but this pleasant eatery, varied reports, gets with a garden setting, is a handy sustenance session at nearby a power-walking stop after The The (Indian flat noon-3.30pm & 8- (spiced, mari- 12.30-3pm, 7-11.45pm; 10.30am-8pm) h h h Small and friendly ) paratha (Map p100 ; H5/6 Plaza Bldg- p100 (Map a

With old-world charm charm With old-world

) (Map p100 ; E-Block; mains Rs 165- ; E-Block; p100 (Map a tikka Legendary takeaway : Legendary takeaway kebabs: (Map p100 ; The ImperialJanpath; Hotel, p100 (Map (Map p100 ; H26-27 Connaught Pl; DELHI •• Eating Veda Veda noon-midnight; (Map p100 ; A-Block;

11am-11pm) A Moulin Rouge fantasy of crushed crushed fantasy of A Moulin Rouge 11am-11pm; h (Map pp102-3 ; 12/48 Malcha Marg Market; mains Rs pp102-3 (Map

h For a ritzy night out, this beautifully For a ritzy night out, this beautifully

h ) 41513535; mains Rs 450-800; 23341234; mains Rs 500-1200; Nizam’s Kathi Kabab o The Spice Route United House Coffee convoluted system of buying produce through of system convoluted and counters. cashiers tickets, a series of Block; in try the mutton with egg (Rs 65 to Rs 85); vegetarians bread) will melt at the cheese) roll unfermented chargrilled nated, (Rs 80). New Delhi & Around & CHANAKYAPURI ENCLAVE DIPLOMATIC AREA Fujiya and pleasing meals, this is a splendid spot spot meals, this is a splendid and pleasing pace beneath dusty chandeliers. to slow the everything, The menu encompasses a bit of from grilled-cheese sandwiches to rich, filling curries. 11.30pm) serving and chandeliers, velvet an Indian- fusion menu, with highlights tan- including The food is great, doori grilled lamb chops. what you’re is really but the atmosphere glamor- in plush, coming for – sip a martini for a second that the ous comfort, forgetting Connaught is just outside Place clamour of windows. tinted the % a in the glorious Imperial restaurant decorated is hard to beat. The food roams through Hotel South India, Thailand, Burma and beyond, to perfection from delicious and dishes range recommended. are itself. Reservations QUICK EATS Wenger’s (from Rs 27 cakes bakes Wenger’s legendary (coleslaw/chicken-tikka per slice), savouries (cheese and sandwiches Rs 28/40) and bread foil- jalapeno loaf Rs 25). Old-fashioned for your great- – perfect wrapped chocolates It’s Rs 600 per kilo. birthday – are great-aunt’s its because of largely almost always packed, lonelyplanet.com takes (one revolution spinning oh-so-slowly espe- superlative, are The views 1½ hours). is decent, the day and the food cially during not exceptional. if 345; % 85-210;

) A rava (un- a (unfer- Feeding Feeding ) Rawa dreamland, dreamland, a masala . Apart from Apart from ) and the cooling lonelyplanet.com hahi paneer hahi dosa 12.30-11pm; (gram-flour balls(gram-flour , Heavenly Tamil Tamil Heavenly ) a 66303394; 22 Kasturba h a and other southern % noon-11pm; Reasonable renditions Reasonable renditions ) (Map p100 ; 7 Regal Sansad Bldg, p100 (Map

Dimly lit and one of the Dimly lit and one of

) h a (Map p100 ; 46 Janpath; Rs 34- p100 (Map -Block; dosas Rs 32-50, thalis Rs 60;-Block; dosas Rs

dahi vadas dahi 10am-11pm; a A vegetarian A vegetarian ) 8am-11pm; (Map p100 ; 12 N-Block; dosas Rs 50-80, ; 12 N-Block; p100 (Map

the the (Map p100 ; h dosas,

a h (Map p100 ; 11 D-Block; mains Rs 90-200; ; 11 D-Block; mains Rs 90-200; p100 (Map (crisp-collared rice-flour and coco- rice-flour (crisp-collared

(rice cake dunked in ). dunked (rice cake (Map p100 ; 25 B-Block; mains Rs 100-450; ; 25 B-Block; mains Rs 100-450; p100 (Map

(Map (Map p100 ; 15 K 10am-11.30pm; 10.30am-midnight; 8am-11pm; Saravana Bhavan Parikrama Embassy Zen Banana Leaf Kwality Restaurant though not overly generous, set meal (veg generous, though not overly Dim sums go for Rs 109 Rs 299/339). /nonveg per portion. to Rs 139 Gandhi Marg; mains Rs 140-400; 24th floor where on the restaurant revolving you can enjoy Indian or Chinese food while tightly packed tables, but this venerable res- tables, but this venerable tightly packed taurant’s the Indian dishes) food (especially Try the s up to its name. lives h Embassy oldest establishments in the area, notable including oldies, of attracts a clientele politicians. journalists and retired Delhi-based It serves up a scrummy h Great-value Great-value Nadu thali the Tamil specialities; don’t miss served on the first at the sit-down restaurant at 15 P- has a branch also Saravana floor. ConnaughtPl. Block, thalis Rs 70-95; standards, including a delicious made with cashews, tomato and carrot (Rs options some more-obscure are 50), there dry fruit as the Mysore such go for the Special Limited For a filling lunch, (Rs 95). Thali Marg; mains Rs 85-180; rather Kwality may have Delhi for 65 years, Connaught Place & Around & Around Place Connaught RESTAURANTS Sagar h its and popular with Delhiites Sagar is incredibly uttappams 40) deserve from Rs nut-milk pancakes special include the onion favourites merit. Other sauce) cheese in spinach but is best mented a apparently supreme, known for its chicken older clients. with its favourite , masala dosa, fermented cheese in a creamy tomato sauce, a creamy in cheese fermented Rs 110). smothered in spiced yogurt) smothered dahi idli dahi some top-notch South Indian vegetarian Indian vegetarian South some top-notch 70, thalis Rs 65; of Chinese food. For lunch there’s a decent, Chinese there’s food. For lunch of food at this unmissable all-vegetarian joint. all-vegetarian food at this unmissable

A ) 8am- 12-9pm) (sweet a (lentil- h h Also near Also near dosa A depend- ladoos (mixed tea) or tea) (mixed place to sink place to sink 9am-10pm; , falafel, thalis or , falafel, (Map p110 ; Metropolis the Near the Sisganj the Sisganj Near (pistachio sweets), h 8am-9pm) 8am-11pm) h (Map p110 ; mains Rs 40-100; p110 (Map (Map p110 ; mains Rs 30-90; Rs 30-90; ; mains p110 (Map

momos h pistas pistas 9am-9pm) masala chai masala chai The diminutive Diamond Diamond The diminutive h (Map p110 ; mains Rs 25-100; p110 (Map

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of which you’ll dream long after long after dream you’ll which of (Map p110 ; Vivek Hotel, 1534-1550 Main p110 (Map (Map p97 ; Chandni Chowk; jalebis per 500g per 500g Chowk; jalebis ; Chandni p97 (Map (Map p97 ; Chandni Chowk; / p97 (Map

Opposite the Hotel Star Paradise, Star the Hotel Paradise, Opposite (Rs 40) – as well as passable Chinese, (fudgelike condensed-milk sweets) and (fudgelike (cashew sweets) galore. (cashew dosa dosa A relaxing rooftop restaurant with de- restaurant rooftop A relaxing DELHI •• Eating Eating •• DELHI 7.30am-11.30pm) 7am-11pm) Metropolis Restaurant & Bar Metropolis Restaurant & Bar Haldiram’s Sam’s Café Sam’s Café Diamond Restaurant Everest Bakery Café Ghantewala Jalebiwala

114 bacon, and plenty more. bacon, and spaghetti Bolognese, chicken wrapped in wrapped in spaghetti Bolognese, chicken able place to sip a Bazaar; mains Rs 60-110; diving into the filling strawberry before schnitzels, of plates roast chicken. Chinese, Continental and Israeli dishes can (Rs 50 to Rs Breakfasts results. yield wobbly and the as is the good music reliable, 70) are friendly vibe. h nice with a big wedge of chocolate cake. chocolate of nice with a big wedge h café boasts particularly enticing teas, this teeny nana Continental dishes. Indian and Sonu Restaurant South Indian Cooks up plenty of egg and including bizarre fare, flour pancake) ba- even a chocolate – there’s cheese versions kajus Paharganj Area from the counter, filling up on from the counter, balls), gram-flour calorific Maharaja Thali for Rs 105), and even calorific Maharaja eat straight decent small pizzas. Alternatively, Delhi legend since 1947, you can rest ach- since 1947, you can rest Delhi legend in the icily air-conditioned ing legs upstairs serves which cafeteria, (try the thalis terrific Rs 5/6, per kg from Rs 100, pista , pista returning home. sweets per kg around Rs 80; sweets Gurdwara, this simple the Sisganj shop has been since 1790 and in business Try the divine still has a loyal following. in sugar-syrup). Gurdwara, Jalebiwala is Jalebiwala Gurdwara, your teeth into fat, syrupy fried into fat, syrupy fried your teeth (deep-fried coils of sweet batter dipped dipped sweet batter coils of (deep-fried shines when it comes to pasta, but its shines when it comes to pasta, but its cent lasagne, sweet-and-spicy salmon fillets, from around Rs 50; from around Tourist Home, 1628 Main Bazaar; mains Rs 85-250; 11pm) DELHI DELHI DELHI noon- 117 h 5pm-2am; 41669008; h % ( (Map p110 ; Metropolis 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; This hotel’s rooftop rooftop This hotel’s Haze Bar h is a good place for a is a good place for a (Map p110 ; 4350 Main Bazaar) p110 (Map

41500694; 13 Regal Bldg; 2374 3000; Park Hotel, Parliament St; Hotel, Parliament 2374 3000; Park % % (Map pp102-3 ; 2nd fl, Full Circle Bookstore, Circle Bookstore, ; 2nd fl, Full pp102-3 (Map

A place that is embraced by young ) , which bangs out techno music, then bangs out techno , which a (Map p100 ;

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A stylish lounge pad with a mixture of of pad with a mixture A stylish lounge Perfect for a languid cinnamon tea and cinnamon tea for a languid Perfect ) ) Metropolis Restaurant & Bar DV8 Café Turtle Hotel Gold Regency PAHARGANJ PAHARGANJ These licensed establishments serve drinks until around 11pm. Unlicensed may eateries also serve discreet beer if you’re in a teacup about it. Kingfisher is Rs Sells beer (a bottle of cheap Indian 80, including tax) at its bar and has live Tuesday. except music nightly AREA PLACE CONNAUGHT Agni packing it out every night locals and travellers bar hosts dancing late the week, this hotel of into the night, with a 35ft-long bar holding every conceivable liquor your heart might poolside also hosts exclusive The Park desire. club with R&B, until around it down a notch takes for so dress selective, are here 1am. Bouncers steep for prices: the occasion and be prepared local beer; Rs 415 and Rs 225 for a pint of for cocktails. above midnight; superfudge flavour (Rs 50 per scoop) in a in a per scoop) (Rs 50 flavour superfudge filled interior, movie-poster vintage cute, pasta veggie broad selectionalong with a of grill dishes. and Bars & Nightclubs graduated have Delhi’s bars years, In recent to drown the sor- from places for travellers a miserable room to places to hotel rows of see and be seen Many urban Delhiites. by hip morph into nightclubs later the best bars of DJs and in the evening, with top international conventional more thoseprices to match of clubbing capitals. The 8 Basant Lok; 3pm-midnight) a Rs 500 bar rock or blues; there’s live spot of on days when a live minimum per person is performing. band a wedge of orange poppy-seed cake. Savoury Savoury poppy-seed orange cake. of a wedge and sandwiches. salads quiche, eats include a cover charge per couple Rs 2000 on Fri & Sat; a Khan Market; mains Rs 75-250; restaurant is a little pricey, but a good place restaurant Rs 90). for a cocktail sundowner (from Tourist Home, 1634 Main Bazaar) 9am- h 12.30-3.30pm & 12.30-3.30pm & A glam but A glam but ) Serves out- ) h a a 41632280; N Block Market,41632280; N Block 24hr; L-8 Connaught Pl; L-8 % h 26779191; Radisson Hotel, National Hip and happening, Barista ) DELHI •• Drinking % (Map p100 ; a

(Map pp102-3 ; 68A Khan Market; mains Rs pp102-3 (Map

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Essentially a lounge bar with food, Essentially a lounge Though this central Connaught Place ) (Map p100 ; 16 N-Block, Connaught Pl; snacks Rs 32- p100 (Map h

9am-1am; (Map pp92-3 ; a

h Costa Coffee Big Chill Shalom 7.30-12pm) sandwiches to chocolate-chip muffins and asandwiches to chocolate-chip (Rs 72). latte monstrous iced café mocha 1am; the most popular and cos- is one of branch seting, no doubt you’ll spot other branches of for a cup town. Great popping up all over tiramisu (try a large something hot and steamy blueberry mousse for Rs 79), a piece of latte (Rs 49) or a cheese-and-mushroom cake (Rs 69). panini including a chocolate homemade ice cream, this is a grand place to dine if you need place to dine if you this is a grand a – both culinary and visual – break complete inside and Delhi. Step of from the chaos a mostly with the Mediterranean, you’ll enter Morocco Lebaneseby hints of menu inspired won’t be disappointed and Spain. Vegetarians the highlights one of menu, with the extensive corn crepes. being the Spanish AIRPORT AREA NYC Hwy 8; mains Rs 265-425; an overwhelmingly shop with pricey coffee It’s worth stopping in theme. stars-‘n’-stripes and airport area, killing time in the if you’re the food, though unspectacular, is a reason- and kebabs. sandwiches, soups able mix of DRINKING Delhi’s bar scene, these days, is amazingly with new, hot places opening all extensive, – chains main coffee three are There the time. Barista, Day and Costa Coffee – Coffee vigour of Delhi with a taken have which Starbuckswhich would be proud. All offer Delhi day – or a from a hot cool respite Delhi welcome warm-up on a freezing winter morning. Cafés Barista 60; serves comfort food, from smoked-chicken lonelyplanet.com itself not necessarily is spectacular,it’s worth if especially in the area, sampling if you’re with Harrison George to discuss keen you’re dinner. after devoteean orange-robed KailashGreater Part I; mains Rs 400-700; 90-190; rageously divine smoothies (Rs 70) and divine smoothies (Rs 70) and rageously

(tom- noon-11pm; ) Set within h a 11am-11.30pm) breakfast 8-11am, breakfast pomodoro lonelyplanet.com h h 26859369; Hauz Khas26859369; 26791234, ext 1310; (Indian sweets). thing, whether it’s % ) Long acclaimed for % 24645644; 51-54C Moolchand noon-11pm; noon-11pm; a real real % mithai h 10.30am-10pm Oct-Mar, to 9.30pm (Map pp92-3 ; ladoo per kg Rs 140; pp92-3 (Map Next door to Govinda’s. Sells Next door to Govinda’s. h

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(Map pp92-3 ;

(Map pp92-3 ; Aurobindo Marg; www.dillihaat pp92-3 (Map Promising a ‘transcendental dining

) Although this open-air market is rather Although this open-air market a or have the taste for truffles. the taste or have , Known by many – including its Italian 24330930; mains Rs 180-600; ) noon-3pm & 7-11.30pm; 9am-1pm & 2-9pm) Swagath Govinda’s Flavours Park Baluchi Park La Piazza complex, East of Kailash; Rs 225; buffet lunch 12.30-3.30pm, afternoon snack 4-6.30pm, dinner 7- 10pm; (no onion pure-veg experience’, Govinda’s or garlic) Indian buffet is a good way to fill surroundings. Thoughup in serene the food ery in Delhi’. Chef/owner Tarsillo Nataloni ery in Delhi’. Chef/owner Tarsillo you eat the ensures course, pasta. Eatbruschetta, risotto or, of in or out in the garden, restaurant the attractive that the servicebut beware can sometimes be little patchy. a Chinese the winner being seafood. choices, masala green include Its most popular dishes ladyfish fry. and pomfret & EAST OF KAILASH KAILASH GREATER Govinda’s Sweets h delicious takeaway pizza, ravioli with ricotta and pizza, ravioli ato) EXTENSION DEFENCE COLONY & SOUTH AREA Dilli Haat .org; admission Rs 15; Apr-Sep) a little touristy, it than and more contrived does sample the opportunity to regional offer thalis (Rs veg , even Manipuri state from the northeastern 60) and treats of Assam. Flyover Market, Ring Rd; mains Rs 150-310; owner – as ‘the most authentic Italian eat- Village; mains Rs 220-530; Rs 220-530; Village; mains the deer itself, park grounds of the restful local place drawing in a largely this is a smart A Indian cuisine. upmarket crowd for its a nice parties, it makes with wedding favourite meal or a tandoori-chicken place for a drink a calming stroll evening,on a summer after the park. through Hyatt Regency, Bhikaiji Cama Pl, Ring Rs 310-780; Rd; mains h if choice its Italian is an upmarket food, this wood-fired a perfect simply craving you’re a % Swagath serves up popular Indian and

) a 12.30- dhaba h (peas and 11am-11pm; h Linger with the Linger ) 26960426; Hauz Khas If you’re all cur- all If you’re )

a (Map pp102-3 ; Khan Market; pp102-3 (Map % mattar a Friendly, cute and with Friendly, cute ) (Map pp102-3 ; mains Rs 100-300; ; mains pp102-3 (Map

a In an area with many In an area ) These scrummy, squidgy takea- (Map pp102-3 ; Khan Market; mains Rs 150- pp102-3 (Map a (Map pp92-3 ;

(Map pp102-3 ; Khan Market; mains Rs 90-320; pp102-3 (Map (Map pp102-3 ; mains Rs 100-300; ; mains pp102-3 (Map

11am-11pm; DELHI •• Eating Eating •• DELHI h noon-1am; 9.30am-10pm) 11.30am-11.30pm Mon-Sat; The Kitchen Chona’s Pindi Restaurant Ichiban

116 come especially recommended. come decorated temple-style, with a small but great- temple-style, decorated The thalis value menu and happy atmosphere. Village; dosas Rs 50-75, thalis Rs 90; A delightful, snug, South Indian restaurant HAUZ KHAS AREA AREA KHAS HAUZ Naivedyam 7pm. Tuck into Irish stew (Rs 275), mixed- (Rs 275), stew 7pm. Tuck into Irish the ‘compli- (Rs 225) or attempt bean chilli noodle salad’ 180). Top this all off (Rs cated fudge or mocha with a blueberry cheesecake the framed poster and don’t miss ice cream, the toilet. Bushisms in George of with a daily happy hour between 4pm and ‘chilli potato’ or chicken-wing starter, watch- potato’‘chilli or chicken-wing go by. world ing the Khan Market 190 to Rs 210). Some dishes work better than work better 190 to Rs 210). Some dishes to hang out with a but it’s a good place others Chinese and Continental dishes, including (Rs ‘sizzlers’ or nonveg their speciality veg cookie. They also deliver, if you get caught if you get They also deliver, cookie. a craving. with way cookies range from Rs 30 for a super- way cookies range to Rs 600 for a giant birthday chunk choc Mrs Kaur’s Premium Cookies h KHAN MARKET MARKET KHAN cious lunch, with particularly gratifying butter with particularly gratifying butter cious lunch, and (Rs 200) chicken Rs 160). cheese in gravy, sophisticated, with prices to match. Still, it’s with prices to match. sophisticated, and deli- point for a large a good stop-off ple, neon-lit affair and nowadays rather more ple, neon-lit affair more and nowadays rather h crispy noodles in honey sauce (Rs 80). (Rs saucecrispy noodles in honey yummy stir-fried vegetables in almond sauce, in vegetables yummy stir-fried for dessert, and salt-and-pepper chicken, ried-out, Ichiban specialisesried-out, Ichiban in Chinese and ver- reasonable with perfectly food, Japanese Try the favourites. all your eastern sions of legends, who arrive here regularly regularly here who arrive legends, Bollywood fix. food for a quick 3.30pm & 7.30pm-1.30am; 3.30pm & 7.30pm-1.30am; h 350; (snack bar) Punjabi restaurants, this is prob- (snack bar) Punjabi restaurants, as a sim- startingably the most famous, life an extensive menu, this is a great lunch spot, lunch menu, this is a great an extensive locals at this simple institution over Indian, locals at this simple institution over DELHI DELHI DELHI (Map 119 . Tue-Sun) Tue-Sun) (Map p97 ; h 10am-7.30pm)

, two shops Roopak’s h (Map p100 ; Regal Bldg, p100 (Map 10am-8pm) Best for its known (Map pp92-3 ; (Map p100 ; is Old Delhi’s famous h A bookworm’s delight, this (Map p100 ; 12B Janpath Market) ; 12B p100 (Map

(Map p97 ) 10am-7.45pm)

h (homespun cloth), but also ventures (homespun cloth), but also ventures 10am-5pm Sun) Daryaganj Sunday Book Market Karol Bagh Market Khadi Gramodyog Bhawan through its offshoot jumble of chaotic bazaars bazaars chaotic through its offshoot jumble of is a head-spinning assault on the senses – see above for more information. h place is a great Delhi Gate north of market browsing and to spend a Sunday afternoon picking up out-of-print titles or hard-to-find for peanuts. priced cloth- Popular for its competitively consumer and general ing, shoes, homeware at goods. Spice things up here ; 6/9 Ajmal Khan Rd; pp92-3 spices, most around well-packed excellent, of per 100g. Rs 100 & AROUND PLACE CONNAUGHT Janpath (Tibetan) Market at all, but a series of a market This isn’t really to permanent stalls running along Janpath coming out from the moneyed tourists catch towards Connaught Place. the Imperial Hotel and you’ll Because inflated this, prices are of to haggle hard, but for those on a short have trip, it’s still a good place to pick up trinkets. visit here, For quality handmade paperware Handpaper World Sansad Marg; khadi Markets & Complexes Markets & Complexes closed once a week (in- are markets Many below), with most operating from dicated to 7pm. roughly 10am OLD DELHI & AROUND Chandni Chowk wending your way and shopping street, side by side that sell a similarly priced range

, Shangri-la (Map p100 ;

A multilevel A multilevel 10am-7pm) h This string of side-by-side side-by-side This string of (Map p100 ; Baba Kharak Singh Marg; p100 (Map

DELHI •• Shopping 4119191919; www.shangri-la.com; Ashoka Rd) % For silver jewellery (and some gold) head for Dariba Kalan (Map p97 ), near the Sisganj Gurdwara. Gurdwara. ), near the Sisganj p97 head for Dariba Kalanjewellery (and some gold) For silver (Map Near the Fatehpuri Masjid, on , is the aromatic Spice Market (Map p97 ), ablaze with with ), ablaze p97 Masjid, on Khari Baoli, is the aromatic Spice Market (Map Near the Fatehpuri ( 23326790; Janpath; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) stationery and books and also has a portionstationery and books and to saris. devoted OLD DELHI’S BUZZING BAZAARS BAZAARS BUZZING OLD DELHI’S the fun of shopping ) is half p97 the old city’s colourful,Getting lost in (Map bazaars convoluted opened but the jostling when most shops have at around 11.30am, to arrive try, though, here; bearable. is at its most deco-borders to iridescent tinsel bridal gear, from fancy sari Bazaar has a focus on Nearby Kinari while as bed linen and towels, as well material, ) sells uncut p97 Cloth Market (Map The ) is rations. p97 Bazaar (Map ). Chowri p97 of Lajpat Rai the speciality Marketelectrical (Map gadgets are ) deals in wholesale p97 market. Nearby, Nai Sarak (Map greeting-card the wholesale paper and fiery-red chilli powders and burnt-orange turmeric, as well as pickles, tea and nuts. and nuts. as well as pickles, tea turmeric, burnt-orange chilli powders and fiery-red Central Cottage Industries Emporium Top-end hotels have glitzy shopping ar- glitzy shopping have Top-end hotels State Emporiums Government & State Emporiums Government & State Emporiums later if you didn’t find comparable products if you didn’t find comparable later the bazaars. prices in at better % filled with India-wide - treasure-trove crafts, including woodcarvings, silverware, brassware, papier-mâché, jewellery, pottery, plenty more. and beauty products, textiles h emporiums showcases auth- government state entic products from around the nation. Set aside several to do these hours fantastic shops justice, and bear in mind that some close for and 2.30pm. between 1.30pm lunch haggling. Outside these, bargain hard and haggling. hard and Outside these, bargain that some taxi and autorickshaw remember you) via the (from earn juicy profits drivers their decline – politely commission racket shopping suggestions. cades whose prices run to the stellar: for fun, at the store out the Valentino check Hotel ), p113 or the Louis Vuitton at the Oberoi ( you can order a cigar humidor from which that will set you back a smart Rs 3,600,000. the spectrum you’ll find At the other end of on Chandni hawkers street indefatigable Chowk flogging everything from squeaky beards for less than the price of toys to fake chai. of a cup Although the prices at these fixed-price higher than emporiums can be marginally quality and of assured you’re elsewhere, to haggle. permits, scout If time don’t have prices before idea of an emporiums to get – you can always return exploring the markets lonelyplanet.com . in and and Imperial 23362245) 23718833; 23388084; % 41517899) % 9810708625; 61 23714307; 4 Safdar % Though really Though really ) 25893322; Patel Rd, 25893322; Patel lonelyplanet.com 27944194; H-Block % 51000458; Saket % % a % % % (Map p100 ; (Map pp102-3 ; pp102-3 (Map

(Map p100 ; 55396702; Rajguru Rd, Paharganj) (Map pp102-3 ; pp102-3 (Map (Map pp102-3 ; pp102-3 (Map Regal (Map p100 ; p100 (Map (Map pp92-3 ; pp92-3 (Map % (Map pp92-3 ; pp92-3 (Map (Map pp102-3 ; pp102-3 (Map 11am-11.30pm; 11am-11.30pm; (Map pp92-3 ; pp92-3 (Map Odeon h (Map pp92-3 ; D-Block Market, Poorvi Marg,

(Map p110 ;

23387246; Rabindra Bhavan, Copernicus Marg) 23387246; Rabindra Bhavan, Copernicus You might be able to catch an international You might an international be able to catch Oxygen Connaught Pl) Connaught % Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar) Basant Lok, Vasant SHOPPING from markets, Delhi has a magnificent mix of shopping seething to designer local bazaars emporiums as well as fixed-price enclaves, from a break you can finally take where There’s also the enticingly ramshackle also the enticingly ramshackle There’s Cinema office to check Drop into the box Paharganj. run to between times; tickets out screening Rs 80. Rs 30 and the comfy, suburban cineplexes flick at one of in newspapers times are below: screening listed online at and PVR cinema details are www.pvrcinemas.com. PVR Anupam 4 PVR Plaza Cinema PVR Priya Cinema Satyam Cineplex liably have something of some description description some of something liably have going on. Kamani Auditorium Sangeet Natak Akademi Shri Ram Centre Hashmi Rd) Triveni Kala Sangam Cinemas a fully Bollywood Most Delhi cinemas screen are with English subtitles. There rarely fare, several cinemas around Connaught Place in- cluding the the 1932-built Vasant Vihar; Vasant serving than bar (and restaurant more up you can roll into kebab), a tasty vegetarian for a late-night cognac (Hennessy Oxygen selectionRs 200) or choose from its massive to a mostly wines and spirits, imported of Bollywood soundtrack. ENTERTAINMENT Cultural Programmes pick up ) for publications to p91 ( See Media Delhi’s dynamic listings of for to-the-minute below re- listed The venues cultural scene. Patel Nagar) Patel Mandi House, Copernicus Marg) Mandi Copernicus House, Community Centre, Saket) Community Centre, 205 Tansen Marg) 205 Tansen ) )

a a noon-1am; h ) A world away noon-midnight; noon-midnight; a 32948208; 1st fl, E5 South h h % This cavernous bar is a bar This cavernous ) ) If you’re in the area, English- in the area, If you’re noon- midnight; a (Map pp92-3 ; 3rd fl, E3 South Extension pp92-3 (Map

a h (Map pp92-3 ;

(Map pp92-3 ; Ansal Plaza, Khel Gaon Marg; pp92-3 (Map

(Map p100 ; 34 E-Block; p100 (Map (Map p100 ; 18 N-Block; p100 (Map

(Map p100 ; Imperial hotel, Janpath; p100 (Map

DELHI •• Entertainment •• DELHI For a true feel of colonial grandeur, im- of For a true feel noon-midnight; ) 12.30-11pm; Geoffrey’s Delhi’s Devils Spirit Blues 1911

118 themed Geoffrey’s pub is recommended for pub is recommended themed Geoffrey’s or two, accompanied by asparagus a mojito (Rs 290). salmon wrapped in smoked spears h good place to wind down, with lounge music good place to wind down, with lounge on Mondays and Tuesdays, salsa nights on on Fridays. and hip-hop Thursdays, Part II; cover charge weekdays Rs 300, weekends Rs 500; h a curious cappuccino variety. a curious flavours of hookah to choose from, including of flavours tail or, if the mood is right, bubbly (Dom is a cool Rs 12,000). The volume is Perignon a dozen are 11pm and there turned up after from the rat race, this funky yet suave lounge lounge from the rat race, this funky yet suave a cock- is a desirable place to unwind over Lizard Lounge Extension Part II; NEW DELHI & AROUND NEW DELHI & AROUND wine. There’s a good menu specialising in a good menu specialising in There’s wine. Lebanese and Italian cuisine, and the barman Iced Tea. knocks up a mean Long Island and Australian bottles for around Rs 1700); by the glass it’s Rs 300/200 for foreign/domestic happy hour between 4pm and 8pm. happy hour between 4pm Thursday and Saturday nights, and a generous and Saturday nights, and a generous Thursday and-pop change from the proliferation of of from the proliferation and-pop change Delhi’s bar scene has on and techno lounge for a mug place a relaxed Blues makes offer, draught of beerof a big plate (Rs 180) and music on live 130). There’s (Rs nachos baked capital, this grand bar claims to have over over capital, this grand bar claims to have as a simple bar-snacks as well 500 beverages, peckish. feeling menu if you’re perfect-green lawn. Named after the year in lawn. Named after perfect-green India’s British Delhi was proclaimed which bibe in the company of oil-painted Maharajas, Maharajas, oil-painted bibe in the company of on the deckchairs or lie back on bamboo a rock line-up. Check whether there’s a live a live Check whether there’s rock line-up. in town. while you’re band playing craving, with unusual beer-based cocktails on unusual beer-based with craving, offer: for Rumble’ (Rs 200) try the ‘American largely to the whilst listening a pick-me-up, professionals after a hard day at the office, a hard day this after professionals got a cocktail if you’ve destination is a great

Dimly lit with a cool vibe and a nice rock- Dimly lit with a cool vibe with A cosmopolitan lounge-bar-restaurant a particularly pleasing wine list (Californian DELHI DELHI DELHI 121 43513202; 23357747; % % 23357965; rm 303, 41512121; Gopal 23724200; 56 (RNAC; Map p100 ; p100 (RNAC; Map 1407. (PIA; Map p100 ; p100 (PIA; Map 23321345; Prakash % % % % 23324922; Chandralok 41528181; 5th fl, World 24631337; Aurobindo Marg;24631337; % (Map p100 ; p100 (Map % 23466262; 7 Atma Ram Man- % 66314444; 7th fl, DLF Centre, 66314444; 7th fl, DLF Centre, 23731225; 2nd fl, Jeevan % 55302334; Tolstoy House, 15-17 23324293; 12 G-Block, Con- (SAS; Map p100 ; p100 (SAS; Map

% Corporation

951244120747; DLF Plaza Tower, % % % (Map p100 ; p100 (Map (Map p100 ; p100 (Map (Map p100 ; p100 (Map % % 39893333; www.jetairways.com) toll-free 18001800101; www.flyking 18001800101; toll-free (Map p100 ; p100 (Map ( 9818177008; www.air deccan.net) 9818177008; www.air (Map p100 ; p100 (Map toll-free 18001803333; www.spicejet.com) toll-free . For Indian Airlines’ flight Airlines’ . For Indian arrival % % ( % ( (Map pp92-3 ; pp92-3 (Map (

(Map p100 ; p100 (Map % (Map p100 ; p100 (Map (Map p100 ; p100 (Map (Map (Map pp102-3 ; ( (Map p100 ; p100 (Map (Map p100 ;

23737791; 23 Rd) 23737791; 23 Barakhamba 23321164; 44 Janpath) 23321164; 44 7am-11pm) Other major domestic airlines (it’s usu- domestic Other major Prakash Deep Bldg, 7 Tolstoy Marg) Prakash Deep Bldg, 7 Tolstoy Bharati Bldg, Connaught Pl) Bharati Bldg, Connaught Pl) naught Janpath) Thapar House, 124 Bldg, 36 Janpath) Bldg, 36 % Aeroflot Marg) Tolstoy Air Canada Air France Air India British Airways El Al Israel Airlines Emirates Pl) Sansad Marg, Connaught Gulf Air Japan Airlines KLM-Royal Dutch Airlines Lufthansa Airlines Malaysian Airlines Pakistan International Airlines Qantas Airways Royal Nepal Airlines % Scandinavian Airlines airfield h times, dial and departure tickets to book and cheapest ally quickest online): Air Deccan Jet Airways Kingfisher Spicejet INTERNATIONAL arrivals hall has airport’s The international facilities, a prepaid 24-hour money-exchange and a tourist information coun- taxi counter is open The railway booking counter ter. to 8pm. from 8am Airline Offices below operate Most airline offices listed between around 10am and 5pm, Tuesday to Sunday. Pl) sion, Connaught Marg) Prakash Deep Bldg, 7 Tolstoy Marg) Deep Bldg, 7 Tolstoy fisher.com) Janpath) Rd) Das Bhavan, 28 Bharakamba Trade Tower, Barakhamba Rd) Trade Tower, Barakhamba DLF Phase 1, Gurgaon) DLF Phase 1, (Map

or the Safdarjang 25652011) is at Connaught % . (

23416901; 60 M-Block,23416901; Con- Indian Airlines office % 25675126) DELHI •• Getting & Away There % ( have your check-in baggage X- baggage your check-in have 11.30am-8pm Mon-Sat) Men’s-only tailor. Men’s-only Mon-Sat) 11.30am-8pm tailor. (Map p100 ; p100 (Map must 23313317; F-Block, Malhotra Bldg, Connaught Pl; h international airport %

10am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) At both domestic and international termi- At both domestic and international Check-in for domestic flights is one hour Check-in for domestic flights is one hour just that if you’ve Note departure. before an onward connection and have arrived within India, it may be with Air India, the carrier, rather than country’s international its domestic carrier, Indian Airlines. If this the in- in at is the case, you must check 2), not the (Terminal terminal ternational domestic terminal. Airlines The most convenient p100 ; office at also a ticket There’s Place. naught Pl; naught for domestic travel, a centre It’s also India. connec- bus, rail and air with extensive Delhi is prone to fog during that tions. Note December and of months winter the chilly airline disrupts frequently which January, from arriving details of For more schedules. overseas see . p373 Air the 1) of (Terminal The domestic terminals Airport (Map Indira Gandhi International 15km south-west of around ) are pp92–3 ter- Connaught Place, and the international 2) is a further 6km away. minal (Terminal shuttle bus between a free the two There’s or you can useterminals, the Ex-Servicemen’s ). Allow p123 Air Link Transport Service (see domestic airport to the to get 30 to 45 minutes 45 minutes the day, and during the middle of airport. the international to an hour to reach it’s wise at rush-hour, heading there If you’re be sure. to double this, just to nals, you in – don’t you check rayed and sealed before you’ll be sent to do this or back. At forget you collect tags ensure counter, the check-in (mandatory to attach to your hand luggage to clear security For flight enquiries, later). call the DOMESTIC & Departures Arrivals lonelyplanet.com Tailors Vedi trousers/suits. for Charges Rs 300/2400 & AWAY GETTING THERE to gateway international Delhi is a major h domestic airport domestic

11am- around 10.30am- h h (Map pp92-3 ; h 23418007; 25 Mittal Tea House House Mittal Tea % lonelyplanet.com 26251620; Regalia Tea House Regalia Tea 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) (Map ; pp92-3 % and , both offering simi- , both offering h (Map pp102-3 ; 11am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) A skirt (Map p100 ; p100 (Map sells high-class good in two h Run by the lovely Mr Lal, lovely Run by the This market attracts bargain attracts bargain This market 10am-7.30pm) 10am-7.30pm) (Map pp102-3 ; 9/172 Jor Bagh Market;; 9/172 Jor pp102-3 (Map (Map pp92-3 ;

Just south of Purana Qila, Purana Qila, Just south of (Map (Map ; pp102-3

here has two well-arranged floors floors has two well-arranged here h h Planet M 9.30am-7.30pm) 9.30am-7.30pm) 11am-8pm Tue-Sun) 11am-8pm Tue-Sun) South Extension Market Parts I & II Sunder Nagar Market Lajpat Nagar Central Market C Lal & Sons Khan Market tions or try the following (reputable) outlets. tions or try the following (reputable) include fab- Always confirm whether quotes exclude material. ric; the following prices New Prominent Tailors 8.30pm Tue-Sun) Indian music. English and of 7.30pm Mon-Sat) shops specialises of collection this genteel in Indian and Nepali handicrafts and ‘an- also are There replicas). tiques’ (most are two outstanding teashops: (Map pp102-3 ; (Map ; pp102-3 lar products (including wonderful loose teas spices) and complimentary and prepacked tea tastings. Tailors garments ready-made adeptly replicate Tailors party frock. Ultracheap so bring your favourite can be shoddy – seektailors recommenda- expat diplomats and well-heeled locals for its clinics. After skincare boutiques and rash of CDs, clothes and organic on books, splurging into the change toiletries, drop your remaining for stray cats, permanent tin collection-box Shop. Pet the Windsor of courtesy 11am-9pm Tue-Sun) on the prowl for household goods, hunters fallen in love you’ve clothing and jewellery. If with the colourful jangly bangles widely worn for by Indian women, you can find them here two dozen. around Rs 50 per h the road. Music on either side of one enclaves, store and furniture shops geared to society’s to society’s geared shops and furniture upper crust. Jor Bagh little ‘curiosity shop’ at this humble popu- ) is especially pp102–3 (Map Market handmade for its charming lar with expats decorations. The handicrafts Christmas-tree in- those than (cheaper at tourist markets) candles, blue pottery, clude papier-mâché, glass beads. silk scarves and pretty Rather shops and cafés than a collection of this place is popular with an actual market, K-Block, Connaught Pl; K-Block, Rs 300. (without lining) is Rs 150, men’s trousers are h

(Map is pat- prides whose Mon-Sat) Fabindia abounds 10am-7pm) 23413831; 12 h h %

An upmarket An upmarket 11am-7.30pm Tue-Sun) 11am-7.30pm Tue-Sun) 10am-8pm) 10am-7.30pm) 23327685; Marina Arcade, h h (Map p100 ; h Wed-Mon)

% (Map pp92-3 ; 11.30am-8pm Mon-Sat)

10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

h h h (Map p100 ; (Map p100 ; Regal Bldg, Sansad Marg; p100 (Map sell reasonable regional handi- sell regional reasonable (Map p110 ; The small and well-concealed The small and well-concealed

(Map p100 ;

(Map pp92-3 ; Aurobindo Marg; admission Rs 10; pp92-3 (Map (Map p100 ; 1st fl, 44 K-Block; ; 1st fl, 44 K-Block; p100 (Map

(cotton rugs) range from Rs 150 to (cotton rugs) range

DELHI •• Shopping Shopping •• DELHI 10.30am-7pm) 10.30am-10pm) Rikhi Ram Palika Bazaar Hauz Khas Village Greater Kailash M-Block & N-Block Market Soma Rangarsons Music Depot People TreePeople Main Bazaar

one abounding with art galleries, boutiques one abounding ment, fabric and furnishings store store ment, fabric and furnishings ; N-Block Market; pp92-3 (Map pp92-3 ; Greater Kailash 1; best known for its gar- shopping enclave and the admission fee means a welcome break means a welcome break and the admission fee from hawkers. nothing you couldn’t get in a government in a government nothing you couldn’t get is good, though, emporium. The food on offer h but baskets, as shawls and woven crafts, such NEW DELHI & AROUND NEW DELHI & AROUND Dilli Haat cosmetic bags and scarves. cosmetic bags Soma has beautiful block-printed textiles from textiles Soma has beautiful block-printed clothing, mitts and aprons, to children’s oven musicians. Sitars startmusicians. Sitars at Rs 22,000 and tablas Rs 4500. upwards of are 8 G-Block, Connaught Pl; India’s most esteemed ronised by some of sitars (from Rs 2500). (from sitars forces’. Items include brass-band instruments include brass-band forces’. Items (trumpets Rs 2500), tablas (from Rs 1600) and K-Block, Connaught Pl; K-Block, bags, clothes and costume jewellery. bags, clothes and h as well as books, with socio-political messages, clothing) and Indian music CDs aimed at CDs aimed at clothing) and Indian music quoted invariably Tourists are local clientele. to bargain. higher prices, so don’t be shy bustling underground bazaar with competi- bustling underground priced consumer goods (especially tively This is a claustrophobic and frequently seedy and frequently This is a claustrophobic ficially closed on Monday, many shops remain ficially closed remain on Monday, many shops season.tourist during the open, especially with cheap T-shirts, shawls, costume jewellery, costume shawls, T-shirts, with cheap essentialincense oil, and bindis. Although of- soaps. Watch out for the strange multicounter multicounter for the strange out soaps. Watch purchasing system. beyond textiles, with items such as hand- such with items textiles, beyond glycerine scented paper and delicately made 120 Another high-end shopping district, this Another high-endshopping district, this People Tree sells avant-garde T-shirts, many T-shirts, sells Tree avant-garde People dhurries Rs 15,000. itself as being ‘leading suppliers to the armed itself as being ‘leading suppliers DELHI DELHI DELHI

123 traffic police . 24hr) h 23378888; If you order a prepaid service,If you order a prepaid you’ll be There is also a Delhi Transport Corporation There % this service useful less much than is generally option. EATS the TAXI several are there terminal, In the international in the arrivals hall area taxi booths prepaid also a prepaid customs; there’s after directly stand arrivals hall. terminal in the domestic and Rs 250 to the city centre It costs about between 11pm and a 25% surcharge there’s arriving at night or on your 5am. If you’re to prearrange own, however, you may prefer since it’s been a pick-up from your hotel, to at- taxi drivers known even for prepaid in order hotel you to a different to take tempt a commission. to get booth with your des- at the a voucher given your voucher tination on it. Never surrender to your destination; until you actually get it’s a nice insurance that you’ll actually get to go, since without paid you’ve to where paid. To won’t get driver your that docket complaints contact the lodge ( Bus The Delhi Transport Corporation (DTC; ) runs some buses, are and others p100 Map along owned, but they all operate privately cost a maximum the same set Tickets routes. within the city precincts. travel Rs 15 for of (DTC) service(DTC) also in the arriv- is (its counter buses (Rs frequent operates als hall), which oppo- ( at the ISBT 50) into town, terminating plump Delhi. Since most travellers ) in Old site or near Connaught Place, to stay in Paharganj

10am- (EATS; (EATS; h 473/656/1145 (C) 4½ 8pm ND 605/874/1546(C) 11 8.50pm OD 292/584 (B) 2 6.15am ND 545/675/1194 (C) 8 3.05pm OD 8 (C) 3.05pm 545/675/1194 416/515/910 (C) 5½ 3.05pm OD (C) 555/801/1417 12 7pm HN 284/798/1153 (D) 20 5.45pm OD 91/199 (A) 2¾ 7.15am HN Taj Exp Taj Shatabdi Exp Exp Ashram Exp Ashram Rajdhani Exp Barmer Exp Mandore Exp Mandore Mewar Exp DELHI •• Getting Around 23316530; F-Block, Connaught Pl; % has a bus service between the airport Ex-Servicemen’s Air Link Transport Service Ajmer 2916 Ajmer Delhi, OD – Old Delhi, HN – Hazrat Nizamuddin Train stations: ND – New D sleeper/3AC/2AC/1AC class, C 3AC/2AC/1AC, class/chair car, B chair car/executive A 2nd Fares: MAJOR TRAINS FROM DELHI FROM DELHI TRAINS MAJOR Destination 2280 Agra No & name Train Jaipur (Rs) Fare Jaisalmer 2002 Duration 2916 4059 2958 Departures (hr) & station Jodhpur 2461 (1AC not available) Udaipur 2963 Many international flights arrive in the wee in the flights arrive international Many 10.30pm) BUS BUS The Map p100 ; can be purchased and tickets luggage, piece of in the arrivals hall. The bus from its counter en hotels will also drop you offmost major at entrance to New Gate and at the Ajmeri route, is There Delhi train station (for Paharganj). no set timetable according as the bus operates flight arrivals. to To/From the Airport To/From the Airport is not as straight-Airport-to-city transport taxi be, due to predatory forward as it should target who often and autorickshaw drivers . p95 see – visitors first-time making it wise in hours, to book your hotel and, if your arrival time advance, notify it of hassle by pre- yourself a lot of possible, save a pick-up. arranging PREARRANGED PICK-UPS Arranging an airport pick-up through a hotel than tak-will inevitably expensive be more the prepaid taxi’ from one of ing a ‘prepaid at the airport. It’s worth the peace of booths a first-time mind though, especially if you’re in the visitor to the city or your flight arrives the night, since you know you’ll middle of and for a prear- end up at the right hotel com- nothing more There’s price. ranged flight a long-haul forting after than seeing someone holding a placard with your name on it. lonelyplanet.com (both terminals) and its office in Connaught and its office (both terminals) 10 per large is Rs 50, plus Rs The fare Place. 23405156; % lonelyplanet.com

8am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, (Map p110 ; h believe anyone who tells you it has believe anyone who tells not not . Do In this large, air-conditioned upstairs of- upstairs air-conditioned In this large, In certain parts of the city, cycle-rickshaws the city, cycle-rickshaws In certain parts of best from walking, however, the very Aside GETTING AROUND are still in the making, but for now the exist- still in the making, but are ing lines serve the main sights. of a good few sweaty and busy, may get hours Commuter but never worse than what’s going on above- on London’s ground, or, for that matter, in August. Underground impossible to find the rightimpossible one to serve your in destination. Autorickshaws and taxis are vary wildly, since plentiful supply, but rates find one willing impossible to it’s frequently official meter. to turn on its cutting through Delhi a swift way of provide traffic: applicable on the short run this is most from New Delhi train station to Connaught Chandni Place, and along the congested Old Delhi. Chowk in around Delhi is by making getting way of this Enter its excellent metro system. use of an world (keep underground surreal serene, eye out for amazed locals struggling, Borat- and you’ll be whisked with the escalators) like, about town quickly and sanely. New lines motto, advertised on the wall, is ‘Servicemotto, advertised with it. a Smile’, though this may be stretching You’ll need to fill out a reservation card be- can tickets where heading to a counter, fore US be paid for in rupees, pounds sterling, but not cheques, euros, or travellers dollars, and your passport along, card. Take by credit possible as early as try to book onward tickets – since berths to travel, you intend before sleeper class and varieties – especially first here also counters are fill up fast. There for buying, and making reservations with, Indrail passes. buses can be hopelessly crowded, and City with a local, it’s almost travelling unless you’re at the International Tourist Bureau (see Ticket (see Bureau Tourist Ticket International at the listings complete offers ). It below Bookings everyper including prices month, updated trains. India’s all of class and km, TICKET BOOKINGS the to should head directly travellers Foreign International Tourist Bureau train station; 1st fl, New Delhi Sun) closedshifted, – this is a scam or burnt down ). p95 (see you elsewhere to divert helpful staff,fice you’ll find generally whose and sells sells (Map pp102-3 ;

Inter State Bus 23356283; 9th fl, 23356283; Trains at a Glance at Trains 23868836; Kashmiri Gate; % 23868709; counter 38) 24864470; counter 36) (THAI; Map pp92-3 ; pp92-3 (THAI; Map % % % ( ( Bikaner House

(Map p100 ; p100 (Map , located near India Gate, where where near India Gate, , located (ISBT; Map pp92-3 ; pp92-3 Map (ISBT; , north of the (Old) Delhi train station, , north of DELHI •• Getting •• DELHI Around

41497777; Park Royal Intercontinental Hotel, America Royal Intercontinental 41497777; Park 23383469) 24hr) There’s also the Nizamuddin train station There’s

An essential (and oddly addictive) piece An essential (and oddly addictive) Rajasthan Roadways

Ashoka Estate Bldg, Barakhamba Rd) Ashoka Barakhamba Estate Bldg, 122 (Rs 50), available at newsstands, bookshops or (Rs 50), available of reading matter for deciphering Delhi’s rail for deciphering Delhi’s matter reading of services is the invaluable between Delhi and Jaipur, Jodhpur and Jodhpur and between Delhi and Jaipur, the Sarai Rohilla out of Udaipur also operate is about ), which pp92–3 train station (Map Connaught Place. 4km northwest of Place, where some southbound and Agra con- and Agra some southbound Place, where Some trains or terminate. nections departe (Map pp102–3 ), 5km southeast of Connaught ), 5km southeast of pp102–3 (Map adequate time to tackle the slow-moving traf- time to tackle the slow-moving adequate Old Delhi. fic of your destination. If you’re departing from departing from your destination. If you’re the (Old) Delhi train station you should allow from the New Delhi train station. Do make from the New Delhi train station. Do make station which serves you double-check sure though the Old Delhi station is also known as the ‘main station’, most trains actually depart and New Delhi train station (Map p110 ) at p110 and New Delhi train station (Map walk from Connaught a 15-minute Paharganj, Delhi’s eccentricities that It’s another of Place. (Old) Delhi train station (Map pp92–3 ) 2km pp92–3 (Old) Delhi train station (Map Connaught Place in Old Delhi, north of STATIONS STATIONS two principal stations in Delhi – are There Train Train comfort, so it’s best to enquire here or at the here comfort, so it’s best to enquire options. up-to-the-minute bus station for Ajmer and Udaipur arrive and depart. Services and Udaipur arrive Ajmer seasonal,wildly in price, time and and vary are % Jodhpur, buses to and from Jaipur, RTDC onward tickets to Rajasthan and Agra at the to Rajasthan and Agra onward tickets bus station itself. can also purchase You tick- ets to Rajasthan at Roadways Connaught Place. It has a 24-hour left-luggage Connaught It has a 24-hour left-luggage Place. ‘Chaotic’ can be an facility (Rs 10 per bag). at least arrive so try to here, understatement time. departure your ahead of 30 minutes h autorickshaw ride north of about 20 minutes Delhi’s main bus stationDelhi’s main is the Bus Bus Thai Airways International Singapore Airlines % Pl) Nehru Plaza, Terminal DELHI DELHI DELHI 125 25728579; % (Map pp92-3 ;

Runs south to north, from just Runs southeast to southwest, from Runs southeast receives consistently positive positive consistently receives ) Runs northeast to northwest, from Inder Motors To avoid shenanigans, you can try to catch you can try to catch shenanigans, To avoid Unlike on the London Underground, there there London Underground, on the Unlike development, with work not expected to be development, not expected with work three currently are 2021. There finished until in operation: lines Motorcycle Motorcycle motorcycles (including To purchase or hire Bagh for Karol Enfields), head legendary around and seek) – do shop advice from p119 ( the you get in order to ensure travellers fellow best deal. [email protected]; 1740-A/55 Basement, Hari Singh Nalwa St, Karol Bagh Market) . p382 see information for more reports; Taxi & Autorickshaw but metered All taxis are and autorickshaws ‘not work- are you’ll usually find the meters to turn will simply refuse ing’ or that drivers got an iron will, you’ll them on. Unless you’ve rather a price usually end up haggling over trying to find a meter- than standing for hours (taxis cost roughlywilling driver double auto- rickshaws; as a guide, an autorickshaw from Connaught be Rs Place to Old Delhi should 40 to Rs 50). Prices will depend on how sea- you appear to be, and the soned a traveller trade less tourist When there’s year. time of you’ll find that fares months, in the winter lucky with get If you do drop considerably. that from 11pm remember a working meter, for autorick- a 25% surcharge to 5am, there’s and taxis. shaws booth; loca- from a prepaid an autorickshaw In practice, though, page. over listed tions are Red Line (Line 1 (Line 2) Line Yellow Vidyalaya. Secretariatsouth of the Central to Vishwa 3) Blue Line (Line from 6am minutes run daily every few Metros way an excellent, cost-effective to 10pm and are Purchase around the city. your token to get start at Rs 6) or avoid from the booth (fares an unlimited time by purchasing queuing each card Rs 70/200). card (one-day/three-day travel for free. under 90cm tall travel Children stop, what points of is little indication, at each you might be near, so consult a map to interest the blue station. In general, find your nearest for shuttling most use to travellers, line is of Old Delhi. between New and the sights of Shahdara to Rithala. Shahdara to to Dwarka. Indraprastha

is 2341 5930; 8am-9pm) % h Shivaji Stadium Shivaji , as there’s more more , as there’s

(Map p100 ; (www.delhimetrorail.com) Connaught Pl (on Sansad

Shivaji Stadium terminal to the Shivaji Stadium DELHI •• Getting Around metro system (Map p100 ; Connaught Pl) ; Connaught p100 (Map Janpath (from opposite the Imperial Janpath (from opposite hotel) to If you want to purchase a bike, the largest the largest If you want to purchase a bike, Kumar Tourist Taxi ServiceKumar Tourist Taxi Useful buses: Useful

decide to save your haggling skills for another decide to save usu- are occasion, since cycle-rickshaw drivers (employed) resi- Delhi’s poorest ally some of as dents, won’t try to dupe you as frequently face stiff competition autorickshaw drivers, in restricted and are others, among legions of the city. their access to popular parts of new and secondhand bicycles can of range (Map be found at Jhandewalan Cycle Market pp92–3 ). Metro Delhi’s acclaim in 2002 and is still in opened to great Bus 505 Buses 604, 620, 632 & 641 Car HIRING A CAR & DRIVER chauffeur-driven offer Numerous operators can . Hotels p379 – for important tips seecars absolutely but make cars arrange also often charges won’t be hidden ‘extra’ there sure traveller-recom- you depart. Three before by the arranged cars mended options are ) p110 Namaskar ( ), Hotel p111 ( Hotel Vivek ). p111 House ( and Yatri Connaught Pl; K-Block, 14/1 kumar.tt.free.fr; a tiny family-run outfit near the York Hotel in Delhi and tours chauffeur-driven and offers beyond. A day-long Delhi tour will cost be- daytrip tween US$13 and $24 per car; a return will be US$80–150 per car, from Delhi to Agra prices varying depending on the size and air- the car. conditioning situation of Cycle-rickshaw & Bicycle banned from Connaught Cycle-rickshaws are handy extremely Place and New Delhi, but are for commuting between Connaught and Place also recom- Rs 20). They’re (about Paharganj mended in Chandni Chowk (Old Delhi), as wizards at weaving veritable are the drivers through the crowds and gridlocks. You might lonelyplanet.com Whenever a starting to board at try possible, as the such point, or finishing terminal & 139 Buses 101, 104 Qutb Minar. Qutb Chanakyapuri. Marg) to Red Fort.

chance of a seat. of chance

DWARKA SEC-9 DWARKA

DWARKA SEC-10 DWARKA

DWARKA SEC-11 DWARKA

DWARKA SEC-12 DWARKA

DWARKA SEC-13 DWARKA

DEPOT

DWARKA SEC-14 DWARKA

NAJAFGARH

SECRETARIAT

DWARKA MOR DWARKA

DWARKA

WEST CENTRAL

MAIDAN

UTTAM NAGAR UTTAM

HOUSE

PRAGATI

CHOWK

MANDI

INDRAPRASTHA PATEL NAWADA

EAST

UTTAM NAGAR UTTAM

WEST

BARAKHAMBA ROAD BARAKHAMBA

JANAK PURI JANAK

EAST

RAJIV CHOWK RAJIV MARG

JANAK PURI JANAK

ASHRAM

PLACE

R.K.

TILAK NAGAR TILAK BAGH

RAJENDRA

DELHI

KAROL

NAGAR

NEW

SUBHASH NAGAR SUBHASH PATEL

GARDEN

BAZAR JHANDEWALAN

NAGAR

TAGORE

CHAWRI RAMESH

GARDEN

SHADIPUR

CHOWK RAJOURI

CHANDNI

NAGAR

NAGAR

MOTI

KIRTI

HAZARI

NAGAR PARK

GATE

TIS

PRATAP SHASTRI KASHMERE SEELAMPUR NAGAR

DEPOT

SHASTRI

WELCOME

PUL BANGASH PUL SHAHDARA

PARK DEPOT PARK

INTERCHANGE

SHASTRI

INDER LOK INDER

CIVIL LINES CIVIL

Dwarka Sub to City to Sub Dwarka

KANHAIYA NAGAR KANHAIYA

Darakhamba Road to Road Darakhamba

VIDHAN SABHA VIDHAN LINE 3 - Indraprastha to Indraprastha - 3 LINE

KESHAV PURAM KESHAV

VIDYALAYA NETAJI SUBHASH PLACE SUBHASH NETAJI

to Central Secretariat Central to

VISHWA

KOHAT ENCLAVE KOHAT LINE 2 - Vishwa Vidyalaya Vishwa - 2 LINE DEPOT

KHYBER PASS KHYBER

PITAMPURA

LINE 1 - Shahdara to Rithala to Shahdara - 1 LINE

ROHINI EAST ROHINI ROHINI WEST ROHINI

DELHI METRO MAP METRO DELHI RITHALA 124 DELHI 127 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © What the inscription doesWhat the inscription not mention is before the mosque’s construction. A six-line A six-line construction. mosque’s the before it was ini- that indicates inscription Sanskrit pos- temple, a Vishnu outside tially erected and was raisedsibly in Bihar, of in memory Catch bus 505 (Rs 15) from the Ajmeri Gate Gate Catch bus 505 (Rs 15) from the Ajmeri New Delhi train station or from Janpath side of Alternatively, the Imperial hotel). (opposite autorickshaw booth charges prepaid Janpath’s trip to the Qutb Minar, Rs 140 for the return waiting time (Rs 20 including 30 minutes’ extra hour). per Chandragupta AD 375 II, who ruled from to 413. in the was made, for the iron how the pillar purity. Scientists exceptional quite pillar is of has iron, which how the never discovered have could be years, almost 2000 after not rusted that time. of cast using the technology Alai Minar his own additions to When Ala-ud-din made an ambitious the mosque, he also conceived the Qutb victory, exactly like second tower of his Minar, but twice as high. By the time of 27m and was death the tower had reached it now standsnever to the north completed; the mosque. the Qutb Minar and of Getting There & Away in 1300. gateway

Alai Darwaza DELHI •• Qutb Minar GREATER The mosque was built on the foundations The mosque was built on The Qutb Minar Festival is held here every is held here Festival The Qutb Minar © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally © Lonely Planet Publications. restricted. we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes In return, only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone it. See you know, or resell the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ At the foot of the Qutb Minar stands the first Minar stands the Qutb the first At the foot of Islam built in India, the Mightmosque to be of of began construction Qutb-ud-din Mosque. various additions and the mosque in 1193, but the centuries. been over added have extensions Altamish, Qutb-ud-din’s son-in-law, sur- with a cloistered rounded the original mosque court, built between 1210 and 1220. Ala-ud- to the east along with din then added a court the magnificent the over and an inscription a Hindu temple, of states that it was built with materi- east gate als obtained ‘27 idolatrous from demolishing in the mosque’s con- elements Many temples’. struction, however, still hark back to their origins. Jain Hindu or Iron Pillar This 7m-high pillar stands in the courtyard long it has stood since where the mosque, of lonelyplanet.com in the 1857 implication following his 1862, Indian Uprising. ). p99 ( November October or Masjid Quwwat-ul-Islam to the com- the main entrance This gateway, sandstone in 1310 and red plex, was built of Minar. Qutb the stands just southwest of Entrance in the stands at Tomb Zamin of Imam tomb of Imam lonelyplanet.com of the last kings of Alai Minar summer palaces 0200 m 0200 0 0.1 miles tombs Qutb Minar Alai , who died in 1235, is by Altamish Masjid Extension Darwaza Iron Pillar Quwwat-ul-Islam of Ala-ud-din Altamish Tomb of is beside the entrance gateway, while is beside the entrance gateway, tomb of Altamish The Qutb Minar itself Minar The Qutb tower is a soaring There are also some are There Today, this impressively ornate tower has ornate Today, this impressively The tower has five distinct storeys, each each distinct storeys, five The tower has Ala-ud-din Madrasa of the northwestern corner of the mosque. The the mosque. corner of the northwestern ruined largely the complex. of the rear succeeded Delhi, who the Mughals.of An the tombs was empty space between two of Delhi, who died for the last king of intended Burma (Myanmar), in in exile in Yangon, An earthquake brought the cupola crashing An earthquake replaced down in 1803 and an Englishman His dome, however,it with another in 1829. some was deemed and removed inappropriate years later. possible to a slightit no longer tilt (making climb), but otherwise worn the centuries has a around it are well. Scattered remarkably the other remains; number of Zamin the along with the area, of victory whose victory begun in 1193, construction of the last Hindu of defeat the after immediately high Delhi. It’s nearly 73m kingdom in and base a 15m-diameter from tapers 2.5m to just the top. at The first balcony. by a projecting marked sandstone, while the upper red of are three and sandstone. Although marble of are floors the tower, of Qutb-ud-din began construction his succes- the 1st storey; he only finished it and, in 1368, Firoz Shah completed sors and added a cupola. the top storeys rebuilt

(Map sunrise- h (Map p100 ; 88 Qutb Minar com- Tughlaqabad (Map p110 ; p110 (Map (Map p100 ; Connaught Pl; p100 (Map are the first monuments the first are 11am-7pm) The booth is just outside the 11am-7pm) The 26643856; Indian/foreigner Rs 10/250, video Rs 25; 26643856; Indian/foreigner h once enclosed the third city of Delhi once enclosed the third city of

GREATER DELHI •• Tughlaqabad •• Tughlaqabad DELHI GREATER

% (

11am-9pm) 24hr) sunrise-sunset Tue-Sun) The city’s construction involved a legend- The city’s construction involved

An autorickshaw from ConnaughtAn autorickshaw Place

The imposing buildings of the The imposing buildings of h 126 h fine examples Islamic rule in India and are of Afghan architecture. early of plex QUTB MINAR QUTB MINAR should cost around Rs 200 for the return should cost around Rs 200 for the return trip to Tughlaqabad, including half an hour waiting time. the the case. be inhabited only by shepherds. Today, along be inhabited rhesus macaques, this is indeed with legions of struction of Nizam-ud-din’s shrine, the saint Nizam-ud-din’s shrine, struction of the king, warning that his city would cursed forbade workers moonlighting on the con- forbade workers was deserted soon after his death, possibly due was deserted soon after much nearby; not water fresh to a dearth of walls, some halls, though 6.5km of remains, can still city streets and the outline of towers, made out. be between and the Ghiyus-ud-din ary quarrel saint Nizam-ud-din: when the Tughlaq ruler ( p89 ). The walled city and fort with 13 gate- ). The walled p89 ( ways was built by Ghiyus-ud-din Tughlaq and pp92-3 ; Indian/foreigner Rs 5/100, video Rs 25; ; Indian/foreigner pp92-3 sunset) The crumbling battlements of The crumbling battlements of Qutb Minar is 13km to the south. Qutb Minar is 13km to TUGHLAQABAD day trip from Delhi: Tughlaqabad lies around Connaught Place, while the 15km southeast of Minar complex, both evocative vestiges of of evocativeMinar complex, both vestiges can visit both in a the city’s ancient past. You Two atmospheric sites well worth the trek worth the trek well Two atmospheric sites Tughlaqabad Qutb and the are the city out of GREATER DELHI GREATER DELHI Palika Bazaar’s Gate No 2 New Delhi train station car park New Delhi train Government India Tourist of Office officially open, but also has someone sitting officially sitting but also has someone open, to to resort you’ll have counter, behind the haggling hard. unless you happen to be near a prepaid a prepaid to be near you happen unless only it’s not day when of at a time booth Janpath; h tourism office. DELHI DELHI