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International Journal of Research and Review www.ijrrjournal.com E-ISSN: 2349-9788; P-ISSN: 2454-2237

Review Paper

Impact of Different Food Cultures on Cuisine of

Chef Prem Ram1, Dr. Sonia Sharma2

1Asst. Professor BCIHMCT, 2School of Tourism and Hospitality Service Management (SOTHSM), IGNOU, New Delhi

Corresponding Author: Chef Prem Ram

ABSTRACT

Culture of society and nation plays crucial role that is reflected and practiced in food industry in the big umbrella of food culture. Food culture talks about tradition, taboos, beliefs, rituals, interiors and influence of globalization being followed by the service provider that is being apparent in quality, quantity, varieties, taste, neatness and behaviour of service staffs as these factors lead to customer satisfaction for paid prices. The way that Food is produced, distributed, selected, obtained, afforded, stored, prepared, ordered, served, consumed, promoted, and learnt about can reveal much about the customs and attitudes of every social group (Counihan, 1998). This study is focused on Delhi only where food culture is a mixture of its past, different cultures and traditions. According to Gandhi (2015) the city of Delhi is a hub of cuisine. The city has absorbed, over the centuries, settlers, and visitors from across the globe. The emperors, the nobles, the viceroys and the sahibs all provided generous patronage to the cuisine of Delhi and contributed the cultivation of fine taste. Food culture is to be followed by concerned services provider and present study is an attempt to explore of food culture, cuisines, preferences and choices in Delhi through literature review.

Key Words: Food Culture, cuisines, food preferences, food choices, and Hospitality.

1. INTRODUCTION and regions indigenous crops. Food has now One of the key players of services been known as an important component of sectors in is tourism and hospitality imperceptible heritage. UNESCO has also industry. It has contribution of 6.23 % to attributed gastronomy as a part of their National Gross Domestic Product and holds Intangible Heritage List. 8.78 percent of total employment in the Food culture talks about tradition, taboos, country (Sharma & Kalotra, 2016). One of beliefs, rituals, interiors and influence of the important factors responsible for making globalization being followed by the service this industry successful is food culture. provider that is being apparent in quality, Food culture is to be followed by concerned quantity, varieties, taste, neatness and services provider as result of that there behaviour of service staffs as these factors would be better customer satisfaction will lead to customer satisfaction for paid prices. lead to making profits. The way that Food is produced, distributed, Food is a very integral part of any selected, obtained, afforded, stored, culture. Local cuisine gives us an enormous prepared, ordered, served, consumed, insight into the culture, as it sheds light on promoted, and learnt about can reveal much the history of the area, cooking techniques

International Journal of Research & Review (www.ijrrjournal.com) 107 Vol.5; Issue: 7; July 2018 Chef Prem Ram et.al. Impact of Different Food Cultures on Cuisine of Delhi about the customs and attitudes of every The term culture refers to the set of social group (Counihan, 1998). values, knowledge, language, rituals, habits, This study is focused on Delhi only lifestyles, attitudes, beliefs, folklore, rules where food culture is a mixture of its past, and customs that identify a particular group different cultures and traditions. Also, Delhi of people at a specific point in time today has come to embrace the best of the (Merriam-Webster, n.d.). Gastronomic international cuisines. So there is no trouble tradition is dependent upon culture, and it is in finding Italian, Chinese, Thai and an unavoidable and promising tool for American restaurants. So, Delhi food learning about cultural differences culture is mixed of old traditional aspects (Freeman, n.d.). This is even more the case and globalization as well. According to in a globalized world, where not only food (Gandhi, 2015) the city of Delhi is a hub of and ingredients are produced, processed and cuisine. The city has absorbed, over the exported to different countries, but also centuries, settlers, and visitors from across advertised and promoted via mass media to the globe. The emperors, the nobles, the the rest of the world. viceroys and the sahibs all provided According to Stojcic (2013), the generous patronage to the cuisine of Delhi meaning of Food culture is an exploration of and contributed the cultivation of fine taste. culture through food. What one consumes, Exploring the melting pot of the city can be how one acquires it, who prepares it, who‟s a fascinating and rewarding experience. at the table, and who eats first is a form of Today all the master cuisine of the communication that is rich with meaning. world contributes to make what has to be Beyond merely nourishing the body, what one of the most tantalizing cities for the we eat and with whom we eat can inspire taste but of food lovers. Here food has been and strengthen the bonds between tried tested and modified for long. Here one individuals, communities, and even sees fusion of food old and new and truly countries. There is no closer relationship melting of many cultures people and than the one with the family and food plays cuisines together. a large part in defining family roles, rules, and traditions. It helps us to discover 1.1 Research Objectives attitudes, practices, and rituals surrounding 1. To review the academic literature on food, it sheds light on our most basic beliefs food culture in Delhi. about ourselves and others. 2. To study the cuisines in Delhi originated Food functions symbolically as a though different culture. communicative practice by which we create, 3. To understand Food Preferences and manage and share meanings with others. Food Choice and their relationship. Understanding culture, habits, rituals and tradition can be explored through food and 2. RESEARCH METHODOLOGY the way others perceive it (Smith, Maye The existing literature is reviewed &Ilbery, 2014). through an integrative literature review The culture of public eating in Delhi grew in methodology. It is an exploratory research popularity and acceptability since the 1950s, based on secondary data through chapters Siegel (2010). According to (Ghosh, 2011) and scholarly articles relevant to a food rapid changes in trends of culinary choices culture and eating habits. Secondary data and eating out in was in the 1990s that has been taken from company and restaurant culture began to flourish. Social government reports, journals, books and and economic liberalisation resulted in an respective websites. invasion of various international cuisines. Consumer learned about various cuisines 3. Review of literature from social media and internet which 3.1 Food Culture in Delhi

International Journal of Research & Review (www.ijrrjournal.com) 108 Vol.5; Issue: 7; July 2018 Chef Prem Ram et.al. Impact of Different Food Cultures on Cuisine of Delhi resultant in growth of various multinational becoming more cosmopolitan in their lives cuisines. and food habits as well. 3.2 Cuisines in Delhi Developed though The city's importance lies not just in Different Culture its past glory as the seat of empires and The Turko -Afghan invaders of magnificent monuments, but also in the rich Delhi were fond of lamb and poultry but and diverse cultures. Timms (2005) says - their food was not very spicy, and No wonder chroniclers of Delhi culture - peppercorns were used to liven a dish. The from Chand Bardaiand Amir Khusro to Mughals, who came thereafter, favoured present day writers - have never been at a various types of meat with ghee, curds & loss for topics. spices. They were fond of fruits and they Delhi has people from different parts imported grapes and musk melon from of India, thus the city has different types of central-Asia. What is today termed food traditions; its cuisine is influenced by "Mughlai food” in Delhi has little the various cultures. It was once the capital resemblance to what the emperors ate. It is a of the , and it became the blend of Punjabi & , birthplace of Mughlai cuisine. Punjabi food standardized so much it tastes same all over is also very much popular due to dominating the city. If anything can be called the Punjabi communities. Delhi cuisine original Delhi food, it is probably the comprises all types of dishes. Centuries of vegetarian Bania food which retained its global trade, colonization and conquest have original flavours despite the influence of the made the city one of the most multicultural Mughal cuisine. After the cities in the world. Connaught Place, in 1947, many people from west popularly called CP, is the mecca of moved into Delhi and the city was multicultural cuisine, from momos to introduced to Punjab's vegetarian fare which , fruit chats to bhelpuri, to is spicier than the food eaten locally pizzas and fine dining restaurants, CP has it (Hussain, S. n.d.). all. CP is also home to typical North West More and more Indians today are Frontier cuisine “”. global citizen who embrace global trends. Street foods play an important socio There is a major culinary revolution going economic role in meeting food and on in the capital with provides ample nutritional requirements of Delhi consumers Cuisine for thought. Japanese Cuisine has at affordable prices for the lower and middle taken a lead and Sushi Counters are found in income groups of the area and are each and every market. Continental, Thai appreciated for their unique flavours and Spanish, and Italian cuisine is what the convenience (Ackah, et.al. 2000). younger generation demands. Delhi has a high population density Cuisine historian Pushpesh Pant puts and is bustled with large number of street it and I quote “While there is much greater food vendors selling their produce in every awareness and better appreciation of corner of the region. This generally includes foreign, regional and sub-regional cooking, Chinese fast foods, momos, rolls and somewhere in the process the precious frankies, assorted Paranthas, , gastronomic heritage of Delhi is being lost”. samosas, pastas and pizzas, assorted In all cultural traditions, food is only tandoori and tikkas, -, one aspect but yet it is probably one of the Chole- Bhature and Kulche apart from the most persistent. Food is a source of lighter like tea, biscuits, mathri, fan pleasure, comfort and security. Food is also etc. These food items are usually sold by a symbol of hospitality, social status, and vendors and hawkers in the streets or other religious significance. With the changing similar public places. lifestyle and working population residing in Each area in Delhi is distinct in food Delhi and changing culture of generations preferences, and so not only does the

International Journal of Research & Review (www.ijrrjournal.com) 109 Vol.5; Issue: 7; July 2018 Chef Prem Ram et.al. Impact of Different Food Cultures on Cuisine of Delhi restaurant market differ, but home cooking 3.3 Food Culture and Cuisine in Delhi too differs from place to place,” says food Delhi‟s food culture is a mix of columnist Anoothi Vishal, who curates different traditions and cultures from the community cuisines in the Capital. Making past. As people from different places came sushi is not out of place, and cuisines such and settled in, the city acquired identity of as Thai, Moroccan, using authentic Korean all the types of people living in it. All the and Italian ingredients in one‟s kitchen, all rulers and emperors have left the taste of have an aspirational value. is their food behind. The most famous being also getting adventurous. The experiments the Mughlai cuisines from the Mughal era. in the upper middle-class homes there range Mughlai cuisines were preferred by from takes on regional Indian cooking styles the royal . The Mughalai such as Chettinad or Kashmiri to cuisines are cooked in all parts of the Mediterranean, etc. country but the best cuisines are prepared in Food culture in Delhi is a mixture of Delhi. The Delhilites will always be North Indian food, Mughlai Cuisines, thankful to the Mughals for leaving behind Punjabi food and mouth-watering street their food recipes. food. It also includes a variety of cuisines The Kebabs, one of the most famous from different parts of India. Delhi is a hot Mughlai cuisines are preferred by a majority spot for Continental, Thai, Mexican and of people today. Originally, an Iranian dish, Chinese food as well. the kebabs found place in Middle East, Delhi offers eating joints in the form South Asian and Turkish kitchens. of low budget restaurants, elite restaurants Interestingly, according to Arabic traditions and road side Dhabas that satiate your taste the medieval Persian soldiers invented the buds with authentic Dilli cuisine. The one kebabs by grilling meat over open field exclusive feature however about Delhi fires, using their swords. Famous traveller, eating joints is that the capital city has a few Marco Polo recalls that kebabs were served streets and lanes that are totally dedicated to during the and was enjoyed food. Some of the popular road side eateries by the royalty and commoners alike. Some in Delhi include places like of the famous Kebabs are Boti , Paranthewaligali, Annapoorna, , , and Kathi Kebab etc. Another Bengali Market, and Sunder Mughlai cuisine was „‟ which was Nagar are famous for entertaining their prepared in the royal kitchens of the gastronomes with kababs, rotischaat, Mughals for is now a popular dish bhelpuri, sweetmeats and . among the people of all the classes. Biryani, Although Delhi is not characteristic a meat based dish was a favourite of the of any typical food culture the most popular Mughal emperors and is enjoyed all over cuisine that is mostly enjoyed by the locals India today. The well-known also and tourists is Mughlai cuisine. Since the originated in the Mughal kitchens. ruled over the capital for Along with the dishes, even the centuries the food in New Delhi is very hotels have their past linked to the Mughals. Mughlai. The influence of the Mughal rule Karim‟s, one of the famous hotels in Delhi can be felt in the food and food habits of the has a past with the Mughals. Mohammed locals of the region. One of the most Aziz was a cook in the royal court of prominent contributions of the Mughals Mughal Emperor. One of his sons, Hajji towards cuisine was the . Mughlai Karimuddin is known to have moved to dishes are almost a rage in the entire county Delhi with an idea to open a which due to their spicy flavour and aromatic led to the establishment of Karim‟s Hotel in nature. The smell of the coal is what imparts 1913. Today, the Karim‟s is run by its a specific flavour to food cooked in a fourth generation and is known for its tandoor. kebabs and mutton niharis.

International Journal of Research & Review (www.ijrrjournal.com) 110 Vol.5; Issue: 7; July 2018 Chef Prem Ram et.al. Impact of Different Food Cultures on Cuisine of Delhi

Ghantewala in was Jung Bahadur Wala was founded in 1790 and have served many of started in 1971 and today it serves with a the Mughal Emperors. It was run by its fifth variety of kachoris such as dry fruit kachori, generation today and is famous for its sohan kachori, matar kachori etc. halwa and halwa recently shut Old Legendary wala since down after its owner said it was no longer 1884 whose founder is Nemchand Jain profitable to run it. famous for experimented with many recipes Other than the Mughlai cuisines, there are before deciding on the final stands at the other fingers licking foods which make the turning to . Delhilites fall in love with the city again and The symbolic importance of again. foodstuffs and cooking styles or cuisines to Chicken is one of the most any sense of nationhood and the degree to delightful dishes of the country. It which they remain fixed is central to the originated in the 1950s in Moti Mahal work of many structural anthropologist's Restaurant in Delhi. The restaurant was and such theory is mobilized in this analysis originally known for its . ( leviStrauss1969, Douglas 1972, and The cooks there accidentally tossed the Barthes 1973). sauce consisting of butter, and Cuisine is integral to culture. Cuisine chicken juices with tandoori chicken pieces is a prism that absorbs and reflects a host of which led to the creation of this amazing cultural phenomena. The study of Cuisine dish. Today, butter chicken is found in thus sheds light on many areas of working- almost all the restaurants and dhabas. class life such as domesticity, financial Paranthas, an important part of the practice, aspiration, class and gender traditional Indian breakfast varies from relationships, the uses of public and private plain paranthas to stuffed paranthas with space, and the transmission of knowledge. It potatoes, cauliflower, eggs, radish etc. The is a good medium through which to study paranthewaligali in Chandni Chowk is lined the way a culture operates and expresses up with shops which sells the best paranthas itself. of the city. 3.4 Food Choice is the term used to describe Shepherd (2001) divides food choice the street foods. Delhi serves us with a factors into three main groups; first, it is the variety of street foods and Chandni Chowk product or food related factors which rely is known as the Capital of on the physical or chemical properties of the Delhi. food, sensory attributes, functional factors The narrow streets of is very and nutrient content. Second, there are the famous for its . The shops in these consumer related factors including areas have been there since ages. Nothing personality, social psychological factors, can beat the kind of chaat they serves us. and physiological factors. Third, there are Some of the famous shops are: environmentally related factors including Natraj Dahi Bhalla, started in 1940 economic, cultural and social issues serves mouth-wateringdahibhalla which are (Shepherd, 2001; Wądołowskaet al., 2008). deep fried vadas put in water and later Many of the aforementioned factors are transferred to thick beaten yoghurts. mediated by beliefs and attitudes held by the Shri Balaji ChaatBhandar serves us individual. For instance, the beliefs about with golgappas and Bara Batashewala the nutritional quality of a food product may serves us with Batasha‟s which are similar be more important than the actual nutritional to the golgappas. We can also find the value of the food when consumers Mumbai version known as in the determine their food choice. Marketing, malls. economic, social, cultural, religious or demographic factors might also act through

International Journal of Research & Review (www.ijrrjournal.com) 111 Vol.5; Issue: 7; July 2018 Chef Prem Ram et.al. Impact of Different Food Cultures on Cuisine of Delhi attitudes or beliefs held by the person 3.6 Relationship between Food (Shepherd, 2001). Franchi (2012) argued Preferences and Food Choice that the division of food choice factors Several factors influence our food outlined by Sheperd (2001) does not choice one of which is biological reactions prioritize culture as an important factor. towards the food consumed by us it is According to her we must not overlook the related to the perception of sensory importance of the “feeling” consumers have modalities and physiological post- digestive that makes some foods seem “better” than effects. It can help us in predetermining the other foods (Franchi,2012). basic taste as per our preferences 3.5 Food Preferences (Drewnowski, 1997). Dietary patterns evolve and change Our chemosensory perception is over time (Saba, 2001) and are a part of more or less the same all over the world, societal development. People‟s diets are and the psychophysical response to sensory multidimensional and shaped by several qualities may not be much different in factors, society being one of them different cultures (Prescott & Bell, 1995). (Drewnowski, 1997; Naskaet al.,2006), and However, the preference for these qualities differences in food preferences across may depend on the context they are cultures can be observed (Risviket al.,2006). experienced in. Hence, different factors in Food preferences have been closely linked our surroundings affect our preferences to cultural development throughout history (King et al.2007; Rozin, 1996). (Wrightet al., 2001; Montanari, 2006). The We can see distinct differences in cultural group we belong to is of great food traditions and cuisines of people in importance when it comes to food different societies all over the world preferences. The choice of food is more (Montanari, 2006). Different demographic, complex than just liking or disliking a food sociocultural and economic factors product. Several circumstantial factors such modulate the connection between taste as habits, beliefs, attitudes and values responsiveness to food and our choices of influence our choices (Mela, 1999; food (Drewnowski, 1997). This gives the Palojoki&Tuomi-Gröhn, 2001). assumption that people from the same Culture can be seen as a sort of culture or region of the world would have collective memory that influences individual been affected in the same way culturally and behaviours (Franchi, 2012), and the therefore has similar food preferences influence of culture is rooted in a compared to people from other parts of the combination of several factors. One factor is world. Further, in the contemporary world it the environment; that is geography, climate is common for people to eat the same food, and availability of different plant and animal or ingredients, all over the world. However, species. Another is ritual and belief systems, in the current scenario due to differences in both religious and otherwise. Community weather and soil conditions, it does not and family structure is also a factor as well necessarily mean that foods are prepared in as the degree of innovation, mechanization the same way or that they taste the same and experimentation in the society. The across geographical regions (Risviket al., degree of mobility in a society is also 2006). important since the trading with, and import Asit makes clear from the preceding from, other populations or consumer groups discussion; several factors affect our food may impact the food culture. Finally, the choices. Therefore, the process connection historical, economic and political context food choice and food preference is not within a culture also affects consumers‟ straight forward and explicable. According food choices and preferences (Mela, 1999; to Wądołowskaet al.(2008) food preferences Wright et al., 2000). interact with different food choice factors (such as advertising, functional, health,

International Journal of Research & Review (www.ijrrjournal.com) 112 Vol.5; Issue: 7; July 2018 Chef Prem Ram et.al. Impact of Different Food Cultures on Cuisine of Delhi price, sensory and socio-cultural) and businesses and nations we can introduce sociodemographic features of the consumer numerous aspects of global culture via food. (such as age, economic condition, education, gender, region of residence and Practical Implications size of the place of residence), which again The study will have the relevance interacts with the frequency of food intake both in academia as well as in industry. In (Wądołowskaet al.,2008). academia, it will contribute to the body of It has been shown that people who knowledge by providing an insight of the have different food choice motives differs in Food Culture and Cuisine of Delhi i.e. Delhi preferences for selected food products Cuisine, relationship between culture and (Wądołowskaet al., 2008). Food choice cuisine and association among them through always remains a complicated area of study customer perspective. In context of industry, as the actual decision making process the managerial contribution of the study will remains somewhat unclear, because of its support and assist the hospitality and complexity but also due to versatile nature. tourism managers in planning a All disciplines as per their interest may comprehensive strategic marketing plan approach the matter of food choice from focused on targeting the culinary tourism different point of views resulting in its market. complexity and illuminating different processes. Limitations and Future Scope This study is limited to Delhi only. CONCLUSION Further this study explores historical There have been tremendous background of culture and its significant changes in food habits and intake patterns contribution on cuisines, food choices and owing to the increase e, changing lifestyles, preferences. This study can be elaborated women employment, per capita Income and the reference of globalization, technology other environmental factors. Mostly all the and role social networking sites and media. Indians love their own cuisine but kids are used to international food which leads to REFERENCES fusion kitchen: e.g. pasta with Indian spices.  An Eicher Goodearth Publication. (1998). In Delhi globalization has played an New Delhi, Delhi: DTTDC. important role in the transformation of food  Counihan, C. (1998). Food and Gender: foreign food brands are easily available in Identity and Power (Vol. Volume 1 of Food many stores, and consumers have access to in history and culture, ISSN 1028-2653). varieties of food that were not previously Taylor & Francis.  Cuisines of Delhi, Famous Delhi Cuisine, available to them products like Greek Famous Delhi Food, Famous Food in Delhi olives, Italian dressing, Mix herbs, Mexican - Indiasite. (n.d.).Retrieved January 12, salsa, French cheese, Swiss chocolate etc. in 2016, from several shops. Dining Experience, which http://www.indiasite.com/delhi/cuisine.html includes different dining experiences,  D. (n.d.). :: About Delhi: Retrieved January authentic restaurant design, restaurant 12, 2016, from atmosphere, and cultural learning. These http://www.delhitourism.gov.in/delhitouris factors can be controlled to a large extent by m/aboutus/index.jsp restaurant management. Ethnic restaurants  Drewnowski, A. (1997). Taste preferences have the advantage of offering exotic dining and food intake. Annual review of Nutrition, experiences which can satisfy consumers 17, 237-253 who want to escape from their ordinary  Freeman, C. (n.d.). Analyzing culture routines (H. Kim, 2000). Tourism is a through globalization. Handbook of Cultural Sociology. rapidly growing industry worldwide, which  Gagnon, G. B. &Roh, Y. S. (2008). The is powered by the continual globalization of impact of customization and reliability on

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How to cite this article: Ram P, Sharma S. Impact of different food cultures on cuisine of Delhi. International Journal of Research and Review. 2018; 5(7):107-115.

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International Journal of Research & Review (www.ijrrjournal.com) 115 Vol.5; Issue: 7; July 2018