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Süden The Travel Magazine for SouthWest

How to

have your cake – Get back to nature and where in the to eat it! Hike quiet trails Sit round a campfire Sleep in a bubble tent

All the fun of the fair in Drink beer Ride the rollercoasters Eat roast chicken

Feel the breeze on Cycle from inn to inn Eat like a Relax! Sunny SouthWest Germany

6

TR kar Nec Sunny SouthWest Germany:

The Good Life

Welcome to SÜDEN, SouthWest Germany’s magazine for everyone 6 who enjoys the Good Life. Süden means ‘south’ in German, and the federal state of -Württemberg is not only in the southern part of the country, it is also the sunniest region. Perhaps, that’s why locals are known for their warm hospitality.

Süden The Travel Magazine for SouthWest Germany Come for the culture. Come to eat. Come if you love wine. Famous orchestras and art collections, According to the Michelin gastronomy Baden-Württemberg’s young winemakers How to

have your cake – and where

Get back to nature to eat it! in the Black Forest Hike quiet trails world-class ballet and opera companies. guide, a quarter of Germany’s best have led a “quiet revolution” and their Sit round a campfire Sleep in a bubble tent

All the fun of the fair in Stuttgart Drink beer Ride the rollercoasters Tour and palaces that are straight restaurants are here, making this the wines win prizes at international compe- Eat roast chicken Feel the breeze on Lake Constance Cycle from inn to inn Eat like a king out of a fairy-tale. Come at any time of country’s foodiest region. There are plen- titions. Come if you just need a break. Relax! year: in spring, the gardens are glorious, ty of stars, but Michelin’s Bib Gourmand SouthWest Germany is Germany’s especially on the island of in selections also rate the well-prepared, premier spa destination, with nearly COVER PHOTO: Lake Constance. Summer brings long, well-priced menus using local produce: 60 spas and health resorts, perfect Real Black Forest hot days that are perfect for swimming pork from the Schwäbisch-Hall area; for pampering or recharging your Cake is a treat, Grapes ripe- in clean lakes and hiking in cool forests. beef from and the Black batteries.But come soon: The SÜDEN with chocolate, : the grand 300-year-old palace ning: glorious In autumn, orchards and vineyards are Forest; lamb from the Swabian Alb; fish secret is out! sour cherries, vineyards cream and Kirsch bursting with fruit while, come winter, the from Lake Constance; spelt, now labelled Sunny SouthWest (cherry schnapps). festive Christmas markets take centre a superfood, from the north of the state. Germany: a food Find out more at: stage. Nowhere else are they more And many chefs have also embraced the lovers paradise http://tinyurl.com/ authentic. Slow Food movement. y82nu8o8 2 3 Romantic Enjoy the cultural highlights of

Romantic: that is Heidel- berg in a nutshell, from the SOUTHWEST ruined to the historic houses and cobbled squares in the Old Town. The narrow GERMANY lanes and small squares with pretty fountains are perfect for strolling, while the pubs, cafés and boutiques provide tempting stops along the way. The university dates from the 14th century, so students have long been part of city life. Their graffiti is the highlight of the 500-year- old student jail, while Student’s Kiss chocolates are still hand-made to a 150-year-old recipe.

Up the hill is the castle, which has guarded Heidel- berg for 700 years. Walk up the 315 steps, or glide up in minutes aboard the Bergbahn, the funicular. There is much to see: beauti­ ful gardens, the pharmacy museum, the world’s biggest wine barrel and, of course, the wide-ranging views over the River. Summer brings outdoor concerts, fes- tivals, plays and spectacular fireworks. But Heidelberg is truly special: memories are made here, all year round. 4 5 Sunny SouthWest Germany

Black Forest Magic

What exactly is the Black Forest, or Schwarzwald? The answer is simple: a region of lakes and low mountains, tumbling water- falls and picture-perfect vil- lages. And the name reflects the millions of pine trees, whose stillness contrasts with the bustle of modern life. Thankfully, most of it is preserved as a national park.

Although you can explore by car, the best way is on foot or by bike. The path around lake (photo) is among the 5,000 miles/ 8,045 km of marked trails catering for young and old, couples and families. The Westweg is the world’s oldest marked hiking route; newer is the Gipfeltrail, a challenge for mountain bikers that circles the , the Black Forest’s highest mountain.

Stop in pubs for crusty bread and Black Forest ham, local beer and wine. Or enjoy gourmet dishes. In the village of , you can choose from three Michelin-starred restaurants. Above all, savour the natural beauty; that is what the Black Forest is all about. 6 7 Sunny SouthWest Germany

Scenic Lake Constance

Nowhere is prettier than Lake Constance. Known as the Bodensee in German, the lake has scenic backdrops: the snow-tipped Swiss to the south and SouthWest Germany’s orchards, vineyards and villages to the north. Only 40 miles/ 63 km long, it is glorious year-round, with more sun- shine than anywhere else in the country.

Cycle or stroll along the shore; swim or sail the blue waters of the “German Riviera”. Base yourself in historic cities, such as ; visit , with its 7th-cen- tury Alte Burg, Germany’s oldest inhabited castle. Relax in waterside resort hotels, with canoes and kayaks at the dock. Photograph the glorious gardens on Mainau Island. Explore the lake by ferry or take a lunch or dinner cruise: the spectacular views are free. For a special thrill, see it all from a Zeppelin; flights leave from Friedrichs- hafen, the birthplace of the airship. And wherever you go, order fresh lake fish: char, perch-pike and white fish (Felchen). Delicious! 8 9 Sunny SouthWest Germany

Germany’s quiet corner

Southeast of Stuttgart, the Swabian Alb’s unspoiled green hills are SouthWest Germany’s quiet corner. Look out over the peaceful landscape from the battle- ments of Hohenzollern Castle (photo), high on a rocky crag. Inside, the ancestral home of German emperors displays the Prussian crown.

In 2017, the nearby lime­ stone caves were recognized as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Here, archaeologists discovered artworks dating back 40,000 years, including the tiny Man, arguably the world’s earliest figurative sculpture. With impressive stalactites and stalagmites, accessible caves include the Bear Cave (Bärenhöhle), where prehistoric animals sheltered, and the illuminated Mist Cave (Nebelhöhle). Both are near , the town where the pretzel (Brezel) was invented!

To the south is the cycle path, running from , the river’s source, to delightful , where the world’s tallest steeple overlooks the medieval Fishermen’s and Tanners’ Quarter. 10 11 Just for fun Just for fun Holidays can be about culture, history and sightseeing. They can also be about relaxing and having fun. And in SouthWest Germany, there are so many ways to have a good time. Ride a rollercoaster; shop till you drop; sip a Black Forest world-beating drink.

OUTLETCITY METZINGEN SHOP TILL YOU DROP

From A for Armani to Z for Zegna, OUTLETCITY METZINGEN is one of Europe’s most popular factory outlet locations. There are more than 70 premium and luxury brands and most of the international names TRUFFLE GIN have their own flagship outlet stores. Stylish clothing ranges from casual A world first EUROPA-PARK and business wear for men to glamorous dresses and fashionable Calling all gin lovers! The pretty Forest Distillery in the village of Bad Guaranteed fun leisure wear for women. Think Calvin Renchtal Valley lies deep in the Black Peterstal, 1 hour 40 minutes from Stutt- Klein, Gucci, Jimmy Choo and Prada. Forest, a region that has long been gart. The unique taste is a result of a Regularly voted the “world’s No 1 theme park”, Europa-Park is Germany’s As for prices, these are up to 70% off famous for its schnapps and fruit brandy subtle blend of 13 botanicals, including most popular family attraction, with 100 things to see and do, including the RRP every day of the year. distilleries. But amidst all this tradition Black Forest wild herbs, lavender, thyme, live shows and adrenaline-pumping thrill rides. Highlights include a giant A stroll away is the attractive town is a newcomer: Boar Gin. Created by lemon zest, pepper – and those truffles. wooden rollercoaster, a scary steel rollercoaster, Europe’s largest Flying of Metzingen, the hometown of three friends, Hannes Schmidt, Torsten No wonder that this Black Forest Theatre and a log flume ride. Divided into a dozen or so European-themed Hugo Boss. 20 miles/30 km south of Boschert and Markus Kessler, this is the Premium Dry Gin has taken the cocktail areas, you can tour Europe in a day, from the architecture of Scandinavia Stuttgart; two hours from Frankfurt, world’s first truffle gin. And, it was a world by storm. It is on the shelves of to authentic dishes from the Mediterranean. With waterpark thrills in and Zurich. double gold medal winner at the 2017 trendy bars in New York and Amster­ awards in , London, San Fran- summer and a romantic Christmas market, plus holiday shows in winter, www.outletcity.com Global Spirit Awards in Las Vegas. dam, in Spain and France; top chefs are cisco and China. You cannot miss the this is a four-season destination, with five themed hotels on site. The secret? A special ingredient, local also creating dishes using Boar Gin. label, with its stylish, cravat-wearing www.europapark.de/en truffles, also known as Black Forest Gold. What began as a hobby has turned into boar and the witty message: For delica- Boar Gin is made at the historic Black an international sensation, collecting te hunters. www.boargin.de 12 13

Stylish, sunny, spectacular

Vines cover the steep slopes of the Neckar River Their grapes are made into top-class wines Taste them in taverns in Mühlhausen, a Stuttgart suburb

CHRISTIANE WÜRTENBERGER GREGOR LENGLER

14 15 Stuttgart Region

ow many major cities in the world produce award-winning wines from vineyards within the city limits? Stuttgart does, Stuttgart’s Wines Hthanks to the Stuttgart-Mühlhausen Although this is a wine region, winemakers, whose vines roll across seeing vineyards within Stuttgart’s city and down the steep banks of the Neckar limits is a surprise River. Called the Steillagenhänge, they are part of the Cannstatter Zuckerle Wine trails There are many wine trails in vineyards, which produce some of the and around Stuttgart. best wines in the region. www.stuttgarter-weinwanderweg.de

AT NIGHT, WALLS HOLD Museum & Wine bar The Stuttgart THE HEAT LIKE A NATURAL Weinbaumuseum in Uhlbach tells the story HOT WATER BOTTLE of local wine and sells it in the shop. www.weinbaumuseum.de Facing southwest, the nutrient-rich lime­stone soils and the microclimate Wine tasting Compare and contrast at an- provided by the river together create nual events such as “Stuttgart‘s Best Wines” perfect growing conditions for both red in November. www.stuttgart-tourist.de and white wines. Riesling and Sauvig- non Blanc are grown, but 70 per cent Steillagentagen annual wine festival in of the harvest is red – the traditional Stuttgart-Mühlhausen (second weekend Trollinger grape, a Stuttgart favourite, in August). Enjoy guided walks and tractor as well as Pinot Noir and Lemberger. tours. The Steillage Days Festival: A popular vineyard celebration overlooking the Neckar

But it is hard work; very hard work. quality grapes and after long sunny Stuttgart Wine Trail. Meet the locals at to make it a commercial success. Small Machinery cannot be used on the steep, days, these walls hold the heat, provi- one of the lively summer wine festivals. is beautiful when it comes to their “ga- often 40 degree slopes, so vines must ding the vines with a natural hot water During the annual Steillagentagen ce- rage” wines, whose label, “Ruxwein” is be tended – and grapes must be picked bottle at night. lebrations, for example, guests sit el- a play on the family name. – by hand. That requires six to eight bow to elbow at wooden tables among Enjoy them at the vineyard’s Be- times more working hours, but you can- SIT AT TABLES AMONG the vines and listen to live music. As senwirtschaft, or “Besen”. These pop not charge six to eight times more for THE VINES AND LISTEN wine­maker Andreas Guigas points out: up taverns are a SouthWest German the wine! So, members of the Weinbau- TO LIVE MUSIC ”I love working in the vineyard. But speciality; by law, they are only open Mechanical aid: ern Mühlhausen winegrowers’ associ- it is even nicer to come here and do for a limited number of days each year. Christoph Ruck: One of the Steillage This mini cog railway ation and their families, who work the What is more, this 1,300-year-old way nothing.” Hanging by the door, an old-fashioned winemakers carries people and vines, usually have other jobs as well. of growing grapes, free from mechani- All the Stuttgart-Mühlhausen wi- broom (a Besen in German, hence the pickers up and down It is a labour of love. And the reward sation, has also helped Mother Nature. nemakers are real characters. “I do not name) is the sign that food and drink the slopes is not only in the glass, but also in the The habitat is home to rare animals, like bland wines,” says Christoph Ruck. are on offer. At Christoph and Heike’s landscape itself. insects and plants, from multi-coloured “I like wines that have some persona- vineyard, you can relax in an attract­ The scenery is beautiful, from the swallowtail butterflies and browny- lity.” A few years ago, he and his wife, ive, modern wooden barn, but tradition Neckar River below with its boats to the green wall lizards to black-and-yellow Heike, decided that choosing a bottle of continues: the wine is from the vineyard vineyards, whose age-old vines are pro- fire salamanders. wine from a list was boring; more fun and the food is grown and prepared lo- More information tected by dry-stone walls, hand-built Explore this delightful area of would be to own a vineyard. But not cally. A genuine, SouthWest Germany The Region: www.stuttgart-tourist.de centuries ago. Sunshine guarantees SouthWest Germany by following the just to sell to their friends. They aimed experience. 16 17

Stuttgart

outhWest Germany has a long, long history of brewing. And that tradition is celebrated every year in Canstatt, a su- Sburb of Stuttgart, with the Cann- statter Wasen. This is the world’s second biggest beer festival; it is also the least touristy. King William I of Württemberg initiated it back in September 1818. After the devas- tation of the Napoleonic Wars, the aim was to lift spirits. At the end of September and in early October, this people’s festival has done so ever since. The 17-day-long event kicks off with the traditional keg tapping, when the mayor draws the first beer from a barrel of specially-brewed Festbier (festival beer). That is fol- lowed by a parade through the city streets, with floats, tractors, horses pulling brewers’ drays, plus groups of enthusiastic singers and dancers wearing traditional costume. Some of the seven vast beer tents Abschnitt Stuttgart Beer Festival seat as many as 5,000 enthusiasts, but they come for more than just the beer. There is also hearty food, such as crispy pork knuckles and Göckele, whole roast chickens. And there is more: this is also Europe‘s biggest funfair, with plenty of family entertainment. Thrill rides are a big draw: roller coasters and big wheels; Join the an old-fashioned carousel and a scream-inducing wild water coaster. But the origins of the festival are not forgotten. Dominating the scene is a soaring column. Decorated with fruit, vegetables and corn, it is a har- party! vest festival tradition dating back to the very first fair in 1818. For many locals and their fami- In 2018, Stuttgart’s Beer Festival celebrates its 200th birthday; lies, the fair is a “must” every year. But regulars also include those, who every year, four million visitors flock to the Canstatter Fairground; work at the Wasen. Kitty Roscher, not surprisingly, many are regulars for example, traces her connection back 60 years. Her family ran side- shows; now she is known for her Reibekuchen, freshly-prepared cris- py potato fritters. www.cannstatter-volksfest.de 18 19 Upper & The Allgäu

hen it comes to art and architecture, few regions in Europe can match . Five ways WOnly two hours southeast of Stutt- gart, this area between Ulm and Lake Constance has more than 100 to enjoy the world of the monasteries, churches and castles in the highly-decorative style that was popular in the 17th-century. The version here was so exuberant that experts have given it a unique de- signation: Upper Swabian Baroque. There is even a trail, the Upper Swabian Baroque Road, whose 500 miles/760 km link towns and villa- Baroque ges, where you can see the best of the best. Following the route is easy: Monasteries and palaces, art and natural beauty just look out for the distinctive sign- Delicious flavours of the past posts showing a yellow cherub on a green background. on Upper Swabia’s Baroque Road LIBRARY + CHRISTIANE WÜRTENBERGER 1 ABBEY Take one ancient, ruined monas­ tery. Rebuild it in the 18th century. The result includes a library that is one of the world’s most spectacular, with elegant balconies and gleaming gilding. But what looks like shelves of books is a trompe l’oeil, an illu- sion. Up close, you can see that the “books” are painted!

Organic brewer Flo Angele loves wearing and perfor­ ming in his theatre.

Left: The Bad library 20 21 Upper Swabia & The Allgäu

The overall effect is both lavish and In the Kürnbach open-air museum, Monika Schmidinger reckons his version is dis­ astonishing – and is typical of the Ba- Ströbele makes Küchle the traditional way tinctly Baroque: they are delicate and roque and later era. with a wood-burning stove colourful, stained bright green with spi- The beautiful ceiling, created by ar- nach or red with beetroot juice. tist Franz Georg Hermann and sculptor www.baum-leben.de Fidelis Sporer, depicts divine wisdom, the and the arts, as well as PEASANT COOKING events in the abbey’s history. This was KÜRNBACH LIVING the home of Father Mohr (1575-1625), 5 HISTORY MUSEUM known as the Leonardo da Vinci of Upper Swabia. As well as being a skilled organ What was everyday peasant life like builder, musician, blacksmith and gar- in the Baroque era? In the “museum dener, this enterprising monk is said to village” of Kürnbach in Bad ­ have built a flying machine from goose ried, historians have collected and feathers and tried to fly. It makes a good brought to the site some 30 Upper story, whether you believe it or not! Swabian rural cottages and taverns, http://www.kloster-schussenried.de/en chapels, farm houses and farm buil- dings, many from the Baroque period. LOCAL BEERS The result is a time machine that brings SCHLOSSBRAUEREI the past to life. Completing the pic- 2 ture are examples of heritage livestock breeds and demonstrations of the crafts In Baroque times, monasteries brewed of the time. their own beer, because it was deemed A favourite with young and old alike safer to drink than water. In one of Up- Baroque food: Chicken are the cookery demonstrations by per Swabia’s many new organic craft with berries and green Monika Ströbele. She makes Zogen breweries, that skill has been revived dumplings Küchle, which are rather like flat round by Flo Angele. “I am a Baroque sort of doughnuts, and she uses spelt flour, guy,” he insists. “I love to eat good food, In Wangen, the Fidelis­ as they did in the Baroque era. Pulling drink good beer and enjoy good comp­ bäck bakery still Schnitzel and Spätzle, partnered by his so the dough is kneaded by hand, allo- he is not just the chef, but also the ow- the dough gently ensures that the- any.” Next to his brewery, his Schalander makes bread the old- own beer. Freshly-brewed, it is unfil­ wed to rise slowly and then is shaped ner of the Grüner Baum Hotel and Res- se Küchle are thin and crispy in the tavern serves traditional fare, such as fashioned way tered, so slightly cloudy. Order a Reibolf; by hand into baguette-like forms. These taurant in , he can indulge middle, but thick and chewy at the the name combines Flo (the brewer) and “souls” are flavoured with a few his passion. After studying recipe books edges. Try them with cinnamon and Bier (his favourite tipple) – but spelled caraway seeds and big flakes of salt. and working with the city archivist, sugar. Yum! And they are a traditional backwards! Flo’s other love is show Then they are popped into the oven, Michael Barczyk, he came up with the treat during Fasnacht, the region’s own business, so he set up a stage in the pub two at a time on a wooden paddle, nick- idea of offering special Baroque dinners Mardi Gras celebrations. for music and comedy shows. Great fun named a Soul Shooter. They emerge that match food with a free history less- www.museumsdorf-kuernbach.de with a glass or three of his beer. with a delicious natural crust. The re- on. Take “Brenne Supp”, a filling soup www.schlossbrauerei-aulendorf.de sult is heavenly. In fact, owner Ursula made with spelt (a medieval grain), Mönch calls it “bread from paradise”. cider, vegetable stock and grilled bread. FIDELISBÄCK BAKERY And it is: the bakery’s address is No 3 As Schmidinger explains, this was en- 500 YEARS Paradise Street! www.fidelisbaeck.de joyed by both rich and poor. The recipe 3 OF TRADITION for a delicate mousse, with fish from Oberschwäbische BAROQUE DINING nearby lakes and wild herb flavourings Barockstraße In Wangen, the Fidelisbäck bakery AT THE GRÜNER BAUM was popular with the clergy. The Upper Swabian Baroque Road (some stands on a 14th-century lane in the 4 BAD WALDSEE By contrast, wild duck was a treat 500 miles/760 km) includes four routes, Old Town. Here, all the breads and rolls for the nobility, prepared with wild ber- with 50 or so Baroque gems along the way. have unusual names. The long, thin Berthold Schmidinger is in love with ries and turnips. Then there are Knöpf- More information about Baroque sites at: white loaves, for example, are called all things Baroque, especially the over- le. These dumplings feature on menus www.oberschwaben-tourismus.de Seele (souls). Tradition is everything; the-top flamboyance of the era. Since throughout SouthWest Germany, but 22 23 Black Forest

New and special Stay overnight deep in the Black Forest a unique experience in six back-to-nature hiking camps

FABIAN TEUBER DIETMAR DENGER

Created a century ago, the Westweg is the world’s oldest marked hiking trail covering 180 miles (300km) 24 25 Black Forest

Wild and Parts of the wonderful: Central/North unusual plants Black Forest thrive along Nature Park the gushing were absorbed streams within by Germany’s the Black Forest National Parks National Park in 2014

Overnighting in the woods is idyllic; just you and a tent, the sky and the trees

he air is fresh and clear; clouds And now, there is a special, new way campfire and an eco-friendly compos- grows into a stream. Hikers are invited tired, but happy. Not only is the forest float across the blue sky: it is to get away from it all – in the Central/ ting toilet. Everything else you may to open the weir and let the 60-ft/20-m very dark at night, it is also very quiet. perfect hiking weather. Only the North Black Forest Nature Park. need must be carried in your rucksack: waterfall tumble over the rocks. So, sleep comes easily; even the birds burbling of a brook and the rust- Between the spa resort of Baden- tent, sleeping bag, provisions, torch/ nod off. At the end of a three-day hike, Tling of leaves break the silence. Whether Baden and bustling , six flashlight and toilet paper. And finding THE FOREST IS VERY most ramblers are reluctant to leave. you call it backpacking or bushwalking, rustic camps have been set up. These the campsites is part of the challenge; QUIET AT NIGHT; They have enjoyed good company, seen rambling or trekking, the aim is to en- remote sites are the only places in the you can only locate them by using GPS. EVEN THE BIRDS NOD OFF beautiful scenery and slept soundly. joy unspoiled countryside. In SouthWest Black Forest where you are officially Most visitors do a three-day hike. As The only way Perhaps best of all, it has been a real Germany, hiking is part of everyday life. allowed to pitch a tent. Moreover, they soon as you leave Freudenstadt, with Directions on the forest trails are usually escape from daily life: no internet, no After all, recreational hiking was inven- are deliberately basic, equipped with its market square and fine old houses, to really know detailed and accurate, but every now television and (almost) no cell phone ted in the Black Forest 150 years ago. nothing more than a for your you are into the leafy Black Forest. The and then you might find yourself at a reception. wide forest roads soon turn into narrow, a place is to see signpost wondering whether to go left, winding paths. Rucksacks are heavy, so right or continue straight on. But even the camps are not far apart, with plenty if you take a wrong turn, that is part of of excuses to stop and appreciate it on foot.” the adventure. And, anyway, the scenery Mother Nature’s handiwork. is always glorious. Some landscapes look More information: Johann Wolfgang With high-level Nowhere is prettier than the spark­ as dramatic as Canada or the tropics. To book overnight stays in the trekking von Goethe walkways, modern ling Sankenbachsee glacial lake. Not Exertion is always rewarded: after one camps, go to the official Black Forest tree top adventures only is it a perfect picnic spot, the water steep climb, for example, you have grand Tourism website: www.blackforest- give visitors an is also refreshing for a quick dip on a hot views over Ellbachsee lake, followed by a tourism.com and search for “trekking”. up-close-and- day. Nearby is the impressive Sanken- descent along a winding, rocky path, all You will also find special offers for holidays personal view of bach waterfall, with its moss-covered the way down to the water’s edge. in the Black Forest. the forest rocks. What starts as a trickle slowly At the end of each day, hikers are 26 27 Unusual places to stay

BARRELS OF FUN CHEERS!

Spend the night in a barrel that once held 1,750 gallons/8,000 litres of wine. In the vineyards above Sasbachwalden, two hours southwest of Stuttgart, the barrels have two full-sized beds; the hosts bring breakfast to you. www.schlafen-im-weinfass.de

Starry, starry nights

Be bold. Stay somewhere different: in a castle or former jail; BUBBLE TENT in a bubble tent or a caravan. Dare to be different in seven special, but very comfortable places in sunny SouthWest Germany Room with a view Comfort in the countryside: that is what bubble tents provide. Because they are transparent, you feel part of the nature that is all around. But you also have hot water, showers, proper beds and good coffee machines. Find these BURG HORNBERG bubble tents in Schönwald, in the Black Forest, 90 minutes southwest of Stuttgart. Stargaze Romantic from inside, looking straight up to the night sky. Spend the night like a knight in Burg www.bubble-tent.de Hornberg, an impressive, 500-year- old fortress an hour north of Stuttgart. What was once the home of the soldier and poet, Götz von Berlichingen, is now a sophisticated four-star hotel, with a first-class restaurant and glori- ous views overlooking vineyards and the Neckar River. www.burg-hotel-hornberg.de HOTEL LIBERTY Cell-fie heaven

In , two hours southwest of Stuttgart, what was once HOFGUT HOPFENBURG the town’s jail is now the wittily-named Hotel Liberty. Think of it as a design hotel, with a sense of humour. Within the thick Pick and choose stone walls, the restaurant may be called Bread & Water, but Michelin-starred chef Jeremy Biasiol serves stylish, seasonal, On what was once a farm, an array of modern cuisine. All in all, this shows how a historic building can unusual accommodation is on offer. Take be recycled – with taste and contemporary comforts. a break in a traditional shepherd‘s caravan www.hotel-liberty.de or circus wagon, a tepee or a yurt. You can even park your own camper van in this southeast of Stuttgart. And little ones love family-friendly glamping destination, near to see the traditional breeds of livestock. Münsingen in the Swabian Alb, an hour www.hofgut-hopfenburg.de 28 29

aulbronn Monastery is more than just a historic building. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is Mthe best-preserved medieval abbey north of the Alps. Set in a secluded wooded valley, it has an other- worldly atmosphere that recalls the Cistercians, who founded the com- Maulbronn and munity in 1147. Stand in the so- called Paradise porch, with its faded paint and massive door, and you are in the 13th century. Walk into the 15th-century church, with its Roma- nesque screen and late Gothic vaul- Maultaschen ting, and you can imagine the choir singing in the ornately-carved stalls. Maulbronn is one of the best-preserved medieval But Maulbronn is more than fine monasteries north of the Alps – and Maultaschen, architecture; for many Swabians, Swabian comfort food, was also created here Maulbronn “means” Maultaschen. According to legend, it was in the th HARALD BRAUN JOACHIM NEGWER 17 century that one Brother Jakob wanted to circumvent the ban on eating meat during Lent, so he “hid” minced meat in ravioli-like pasta “pockets”. These Maultaschen be- came a favourite Swabian comfort food – and they still are.

Maultaschen can be browned in a pan with butter, partnered with béchamel sauce or served in beef broth

More information At Maulbronn Monastery, you can sign up for seminars on food and drink in the Middle Ages and also get a diploma on a Maultaschen cookery course. Details at: www.kloster-maulbronn.de/en

30 31 Castles, palaces and memorials Nobility, luxury & good taste

SouthWest Germany is dotted with royal residences. Some are menacing; others are elegant; still others are ruined and mysterious. Often, a medieval fortress (Burg or Festung) was later transformed into an elaborate palace (Palais or Schloss). Discover who did what, when and why on tours with guides, who are often in costume.

WEIKERSHEIM PALACE The elephant in the room CASTLE In the beautiful Valley, 400-year-old HOHENZOLLERN Palace is a fine example of Renaissance grandeur. Inside, SEAT OF POWER the vast Knights‘ Hall stops visitors in their tracks. Among MAINAU PALACE the delightful 3-D animal Even today, some castles look figures on the walls, the favo- Baroque impregnable. Dominating the town urite is a quizzical elephant. paradise of Sigmaringen, high on a cliff, this PALACE Outside, the country estate fort was the seat of the powerful Baroque grandeur MEMORIAL CHAPEL, STUTTGART-ROTENBERG of the Counts of Hohenlohe is Owned by the Teutonic Order Hohenzollern family for nearly famous for its gardens, where of Knights for 500 years, the 500 years. Bringing the everyday One of Europe’s largest Baroque pa- paintings); the Museum; Where love the orangery and classical island of Mainau on Lake life of the royal courts to life are laces was built for the Württemberg the Museum (18th century to statues of and Diana Constance, is renowned for expert guides, who lead visitors royal family 300 years ago. As well as present day). Stroll through the im- never dies contrast with comical dwarf- its Mediterranean gardens. through some of the 450 rooms the state apartments, with their ori- pressive gardens, whose two mini- like depictions of members But there is more. In the in Germany’s second largest ginal furnishings, the palace is home palaces, Favorite and Monrepos, were This 19th-century chapel was inspired by grief. of the court.90 minutes 18th-century Baroque palace, palace, many still filled with to several small museums: the Ba- used only for parties. Near Stuttgart. It was built by King Wilhelm I to commemorate his northeast of Stuttgart. the former audience chamber antique furniture, valuable pain- roque Gallery (17th and 18th-century www.schloss-ludwigsburg.de/en much-loved young wife, Katharina, whose death www.schloss-weikersheim.de/en is now used for concerts and tings and porcelain. Arguably was sudden and unexpected. Both are buried special events. At the end of most impressive is the armoury, inside. Set on the Württemberg, a hill in Stuttgart, September/early October, the with its world-class collections the chapel has terrific views over the city and Count’s Castle Festival is a of medieval weaponry. In the for- Neckar Valley. The inscription on the wall reads: first-rate shopping event, mer stables is a grand collection “Love never dies”. No wonder locals regard this as featuring exclusive fashion of royal coaches and carriages, a romantic spot. and jewellery. 10 minutes sedan chairs and even sleds. www.grabkapelle-rotenberg.de/en from Konstanz. Two hours south of Stuttgart. www.mainau.de www.schloss-sigmaringen.de

32 33 Northern Baden-Württemberg

hether you call it slow food or just good food, the em­ phasis on ingredients that are fresh and local has Walways been a feature of the cuisine of SouthWest Germany. Whether you call it slow food or just good food, the emphasis on ingredients that are fresh and local has always been a feature of It took 25 years for the cuisine of SouthWest Germany. Bernulf Schlauch to perfect Today’s new breed of chefs not only the recipe for his sparkling feed happy customers, they also visit elderflower wine schools, teaching youngsters about the meat, veg, fruits and cheeses, which are produced in the region, a couple Swabian Zwiebel­ of hours northwest of Stuttgart. And rostbraten: much of this is “Bio”, the German for a traditional dish organic. of steak with sautéed onions LOCAL HERO 1 STEPHANIE HALLER For Stephanie Haller, food must taste good, but also look good. This enter­ prising caterer from learned traditional recipes from her grand­ Good food mother. Now she gets rave reviews for her modern take on these dishes. Not A SPARKLING SUCCESS surprisingly, she knows all her produ­ 3 BERNULF SCHLAUCH takes time cers personally. www.stephanie-haller.de Nothing sums up Not far away, in Heimhausen, on the In the northern region of SouthWest Germany, SLOW FOOD CHEF River , Bernulf Schlauch makes 2 MARKUS REINAUER flower and blossom champagne. The many chefs and producers have embraced the character Slow Food Regional Coordinator for the Slow Food Movement. Meet three of them At the Jagstmühle, a country inn at Hohenlohe is also the inventor of Sekts , Reinauer’s inventive menus of a region (sparkling wines) made from elder­ credit local producers: strudel with a flowers and acacia blossom, rose petals ANNE SCHÜSSLER GREGOR LENGLER mustard seed sauce uses pork from and meadowsweet. It is a complicated Schwäbisch-Hall; ricotta is made in better than the process that takes time, but that is part ; chicken comes from Mäus­ of its appeal. dorf. Even beef dishes are truly local. quality of the According to Schlauch, the self-styled Limpurger cattle graze just behind Elderflower Wizard: “Sekts need time the inn. But the list of appetizing di­ home cooking.” for the full flavour to unfold.” Find shes continues with brook trout smoked these delicate but full-flavoured bub­ over vine wood, dumplings with wild Chef Markus Reinauer, bles in Champagne-style bottles, with mushrooms and a terrine of wild plums from the Jagstmühle elegant gold foil caps and handwritten for dessert. www.jagstmuehle.de labelling. www.holunderzauber.de

34 35 Lake Constance

The Höri Peninsula

Eat and Pedal A gourmet cycle tour on the quiet side of Lake Constance

MICHAELA ADLER JOACHIM NEGWER

The Höri peninsula boasts great views: Lake Constance contrasts with the Alps

36 37 Lake Constance

At the western end of Lake Constance, the dock at Gai- enhof is a popular subject for painters

Flickering sails on the lake contrast with summer Enjoying the meadows sun: a cyclist near Iznang

t the western end of Lake Con- over there,“ the waitress announces. is a family secret, it features fresh fish ner, explains that the dish is 100% stance, the Höri Peninsula is a Sitting on the terrace overlooking the and crab. The soup is served Brittany- local, from varietal carrots, potatoes hidden jewel: endless meadows, water, this is the perfect start to a gour- style, with grated cheese, rouille (garlic and radishes to cucumbers and lettu- blue water, peaceful lanes and met cycle tour. mayonnaise) and crusty bread – home- ce. “Even the beef was raised here in Asmall inns serving local dishes. It all Time to get back in the saddle. made, of course. Spread it with local our meadow,” he says. Sliced thinly, it adds up to the perfect spot to cycle Through the trees that line the trail, butter and sprinkle on some Höri salt: is pan fried with some of the renowned from restaurant to restaurant, enjoying white sails are visible, as sailboats skim nothing could be better for mopping up Höri-Bülle onions. Finished with a roast one course at each! Let’s call it “The along the blue water. Farms here are the last drops. sunflower seed dressing, it is delicious. Höri in four courses!” devoted to growing vegetables and sa- The pattern of cycling and eating Pedal off from the campground in lad greens. Tiny communities such as works well. The trail runs through COOL OFF WITH A DIP Horn, and soon you are at the Restau- Gundholzen, Iznang and Moos have woods and hamlets, then up to the IN THE LAKE rant Seehörnle for your starter: Rad- little more than a beach or a harbour. Horn water tower, whose panoramic More information: ler Tapas, tapas for cyclists! Chef Anja Be sure to take a swimsuit, as a quick views range over the lake: north to the The final stop is the Seerestaurant Gastronomic cycle tours can be arranged at Litterst is inspired by local produce, swim is refreshing in hot weather. Mettnau peninsula, around to Reichen- Schlössli. Served on the terrace, dessert the tourist office: “Especially our famous Bülle (onions). The second course on the gourmet au Island and south to . is an elderflower foam, with a blackcur- www.gaienhofen.de We have created a range of tapas, in- bike ride is Höri-Fischsuppe, the Höri From here, the route is particularly rant puree, cherries in liquorice and cluding cheese sticks with pesto, goat’s fish soup that is Chef Hubert Neidhart’s fun: a freewheeling ride downhill to chia brittle. You could carry on cycling: More about Bodensee West, the western milk cream cheese and homemade oni- Unique to the Höri: the Höri- signature dish at the Grüner Baum in Horn. Here, a shredded beef salad at take in a museum; see the Falls end of Lake Constance: on chutney.” As for the apple juice, “It Bülle sweet red onion thrives in Moos. He is the fifth-generation-owner the Hirschen Hotel is the third course. in Schaffhausen. Or stay right here, re- www.bodensee.eu/en is made from fruit grown in the orchard the peninsula’s rich, marshy soil of this hotel and, although the recipe Sebastian Amann, the Hirschen’s ow- laxing on the terrace. 38 39 Land of 1,000 beers Land of 1,000 Beers SouthWest Germany is dotted with small, family-owned breweries. You are never far from a freshly-brewed pint. In , they grow the world’s finest hops

As well as miles Hops grow on of glorious vine­ trellises, a network yards, SouthWest of wires or strings, Germany has supported by tall equally eye- poles catching hop fields

eer is in the German DNA – and the Black Forest, is Rothaus. Its history ing world. One grower is the Locher is also the owner of the Schussenrieder SouthWest Germany’s beers are dates back to 1791 and only water family at Hopfengut Nº20 in Tettnang. brewery right next door. So, take a tour particularly good. That is thanks Dating back sourced from seven nearby springs Lukas and his sister Charlotte are the and then have a beer. not only to the quality of the is used for the brews, which include fourth generation to run this farm and Many breweries are still small and Blocal barley, hops and water, but also to 1791, Rothaus Tannenzäpfle. This Pilsner is one of the they supply varieties, such as Mandari- family-owned. And some of the best are At Hopfengut No 20, hops are to the 500-year-old German purity law. world’s top beers and something of a na, Melon and Callista to breweries in found just off the beaten track. In the used to make herbal teas as well This ensures that hops, malt and water brews with water cult favourite in Germany. Germany and around the world. Bre- small town of , with a popula- as unusual liqueurs are the only ingredients. About 1,000 wers use them to produce distinctive tion of 25,000, four private breweries different beers are brewed in the 180 THE BIERKRUG MUSEUM flavours, from passion fruit and peach brew more than 40 beers. In this self- breweries in the region; the only Ger- sourced from IS ALL ABOUT BEER MUGS to grapefruit and gooseberry. No won- proclaimed City of Beer Culture, just man state with more is . der these hops are so highly-prized! over an hour southeast of Stuttgart, you Many beers are brewed according to seven springs” Another brewery, Distelhäuser is in Proof that beer is taken seriously in can take brewery tours, walk the Beer the season. So, in warm weather, you Distelhausen, a village on the Tauber SouthWest Germany is the Bierkrug Trail, pedal along on a Bierkulturbike More information can order a thirst-quenching Pils or a River, only one hour and 15 minutes Museum – all about beer mugs! Find it and even stay at the BierKulturHotel, More about Hopfengut No 20 at: refreshing wheat beer; when tempera- northeast of Stuttgart. Their produc- in the small spa town of Bad Schussen- the Beer Culture Hotel. For dinner, head www.hopfengut.de tures turn chilly, a strong bock beer or tion includes 21 different kinds of ried, in the southeast corner of the sta- for the ancient Schwanen restaurant, a full-flavoured Christmas beer is per- beer, ranging from Pils to wheat beer te. The collection covers five centuries with its own micro-brewery. Order the For more about Tettnang and fect. Learn more – and enjoy tastings – – and they regularly use Tettnang hops. of beer drinking and includes steins in four-course beer menu and enjoy a dif- the Lake Constance region, go to: on brewery tours. The highest brewery Grown near Lake Constance, these are all shapes, sizes and colours – 1,000 in ferent beer with each dish – including www.bodensee.eu/en in Germany, at 3,000 ft/1,000 m up in SouthWest Germany’s gift to the brew- all. It is the passion of Jürgen Ott, who dessert! 40 41 Hidden Places

s a travel blogger from South­ Along the Philo- West Germany, Susi Maier likes sophers’ Path, to take a few paces back and you not only have then look at places, which are the best views of Afamiliar to her, and then look at them Heidelberg, but again, as if through the eyes of a visitor. you can also en- HEIDEL Hidden Places That enables her to discover - or even joy the charming re-discover - fascinating and fun spots Philosophers’ BERG Want to find those ‘in’ places, the cool spots that only locals right outside her own front door. Gardens. know about? Travel blogger Susi has all the inside information Best of all, she enjoys sharing her experiences with her readers. There is One of on SouthWest Germany’s hidden places. nothing quite like this inside information­ Karlsruhe’s to transform a holiday into a bit of an up-and-coming + SUSI MAIER / TRAVEL BLOGGER AT WWW.BLACKDOTSWHITESPOTS.COM adventure. Here are just some of Susi’s creative areas is tips in nine of the most well-known on the site of a cities in Baden-Württemberg. Saunter former slaughter­ in; look cool; live like a local! house. In the photo: The hip HEIDELBERG – Alina Café hidden spots on the Philosophers’ Path KARLS Most visitors to Heidelberg make the RUHE usual pilgrimage up the hill to the ro­ mantic ruined castle and then through the lanes of the Old Town, home of Germany’s oldest university. But walk across the old bridge over the River Neckar and you find more beautiful – KARLSRUHE – creativity FREI places just waiting to be discovered. a new concept in the old slaughterhouse Take a stroll along the Philosophers’ in an old town BURG Path that runs along the river bank, The city’s former slaughterhouse dis­ passing small vineyards guarded by The old heart of Freiburg, the gateway trict in the eastern part of Karlsruhe has In the industrial chic stone walls. High up on the hillside the to the Black Forest, could not be more been transformed in recent years into a style of a New York charming, small Philosophers’ Gardens atmospheric, with its narrow alley­ lively and innovative area. This is now loft, Lust Auf Gut is offer grand views of the ancient city and ways, stern city gates and Bächle, the where creativity and culture rub shoul­ a concept store that its castle. little streams that flow alongside the ders. Artists have opened studios in the sells one-of-a-kind Along the path are benches, where streets. But this city does not live in old office buildings; enthusiastic young clothes and accesso- ries, as well as home you can sit, relax and appreciate the the past. One of the most innovative chefs have launched culinary enterpri­ furnishings flowers. For a longer walk, make your shops is Lust auf Gut. Walk through ses. In the “start-up centre”, old ship­ way up to the ruins of the Monastery of the door and you could be in New York, ping containers have been converted St Michael, the Michaelskloster, high on in an industrial chic loft with 8,000 into new offices; a coffee roaster scents the Heiligenberg hill. From the top of sq ft/800 sq m full of beautiful things, the air; a fun fancy dress shop is near the tower, there are even better views ranging from men’s and women’s the haunted house attraction. At the of the city. clothing to accessories, unusual furni­ end of the day, the young crowd comes ture, indoor plants and tempting gifts. to eat at the Im Schlachthof restaurant Adding to the fun is a cool cocktail bar or sip a cocktail in the Alten Hackerei, a and a hairdresser. trendy bar and beer garden. 42 43 Hidden Places

Insider’s tip: On the Neckar, The view from HEIL the Kaffeebucht the top of the Café and Beach tower of the BRONN Bar is perfect Stuttgart music with a cold drink college in your hand and your feet in the sand

With its echoes of the past, the Café Fräulein Schiller is a haven of peace STUTT MANN GART HEIM BADEN BADEN Wildly romantic: the view of the city and This ancient ruined castle from The cute Graben- watch tower has the path up on the häusle, the 17th- PFORZ the best views Battert Cliff century houses of the city. built on the anci- ULM HEIM See below for ent ramparts how to get in.

BADEN-BADEN – Closer are the castle ruins that look – for the best were stationed here to defend the city tower. From the observation terrace, you cakes. Everything is homemade, of romantic views from the like something out of a painting. If you view, get the key to the tower in times of war. Today, they have been get a completely new perspective on the course, using local ingredients. On the Battert Cliff want to explore further, walk up to the restored as delightful little cottages and city. Why not combine your visit with one menu, you can also find gluten-free, Felsenbrücke­ bridge. High on the Wartberg is an old round are among the most desirable places to of the regular concerts, performed by stu­ vegetarian and vegan dishes, as well as High above Baden-Baden, the jagged tower. Built back in the 14th or 15th cen­ live in the city. The cutest are in what is dents in the concert hall below? homemade lemonade. rock formations and impressive ruins – tury as part of the Pforzheim city walls, called Seelengraben of the old castle point up to the sky drop anchor this is the best place for great views of – a delicious like bony fingers. Although most visi­ at the Kaffeebucht the city! Although the Wartturm is al­ STUTTGART – a secret reminder of the past tors prefer to ride the funicular railway ways locked, that does not mean that in the city centre More information up the Merkurberg mountain for tho­ A special place in Heilbronn is the you cannot get in. The insider’s tip is On Schillerplatz square, the Café Fräu­ www.tourism-bw.com/cities se holiday photos, the view from the Kaffeebucht, on the banks of the to go to the L‘Osteria restaurant nearby The best view of Stuttgart is right in lein Schiller is a green oasis in the Battert Cliff is much wilder and more Neckar. On a hot day, this Café and and ask if you can borrow the key! the very heart of the city, between the middle of Mannheim. In good weather, Susi Maier is a travel blogger, freelance picturesque. Rising behind the spraw­ Beach Bar is an idyllic spot to sit un­ Schlossplatz square and the Schlossgarten there is even outdoor entertainment. editor, a Berliner by choice and Baden- ling ruins of the city’s original fortress, der the trees, with a cold drink in your ULM – colourful cottages garden, the State Opera House and the The cosy interior, with vintage furni­ Württemberger by upbringing. Her travels a footpath leads through the woods and hand, looking over the water. Relax in on the city wall Parliament building! Yet most Stuttgar­ ture, such as comfy sofas and armchairs, have taken her to the Antarctic, but she rocks. Especially romantic and great for the beer garden or snooze in a deck­ ters know nothing about the astonishing looks more like your granny’s sitting- always likes to return home to Baden-Würt- a selfie is the view from the Ritterplatte chair with your feet in the sand! If it is Back in the 17th century, Ulm’s Graben­ free panorama from the top of the tower room. Then, there is the delicious food. temberg to report on her adventures there viewing point. Here the panorama really hot, and you fancy an outing on häusle, the rampart cottages, were of the Musikhochschule, Stuttgart’s music Perhaps a breakfast of freshly baked and elsewhere in her blog sweeps from the Black Forest to Baden- the river, you can hire a boat from the built on the city walls. Originally, they college. From the college lobby, take the bread rolls or waffles? Or a light lunch www.blackdotswhitespots.com. Baden and on to the broad Rhine valley. rental company. It’s right next door. were living quarters for soldiers, who elevator to the top of the 165-ft/50-m-tall of quiche? Not forgetting the tempting 44 45 SIEFERLE & SAILER IN MANNHEIM BAR WITH A CUTTING EDGE

It’s the perfect match. Paul Sieferle is an award-winning bartender and Marco Sailer could well be Germany‘s best hairdresser/bar- ber. Together they have created a Mannheim bar with attitude. Under one roof, you can order a cocktail or have a haircut. Or do both! Clever! www.sieferleundsailer.de

Further information It is easy to plan your holiday in SouthWest Germany on Calling your computer or phone. Use our English-language website: www.tourism-bw.com; check social media; order free all hipsters! brochures SouthWest Germany’s mixologists can shake and stir a cocktail with the best of them. Contact Social Media Free brochures And there are world-class bars where they can State Tourist Board Baden-Württemberg / See great photos; find fun ideas; Love wellness and culture, cycling, strut their stuff SouthWest Germany get insider tips for that perfect hiking and wine? Find those special ROOMERS 8 Esslinger Strasse, 70182 Stuttgart holiday on our special sites topics on our website. Or order free IN BADEN-BADEN Tel. +49 (0) 711/ 23 85 80 facebook.com/visitbawue brochures on line Tree tops, [email protected] instagram.com/visitbawu www.tourism-bw.com/brochures not skylines www.tourism-bw.com #visitbawu

Think tobacco-coloured wood and soft leather, lounge areas and a walk-in ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS humidor for cigar aficionados. Then, Süden: The lifestyle magazine for SouthWest Germany 2018 edition a few steps further on: Enrico Albrecht’s Publisher: State Tourist Board Baden-Württemberg / SouthWest Germany, 8 Esslinger Strasse, 70182 Stuttgart, Germany rooftop bar. With an infinity pool. With Responsible for content: Andreas Braun; Project management: Thomas Beyrer, Dr. Martin Knauer, Lena Gerlich, Manuel Mielke a view over the dense, dark fir trees. Mit freundlicher Unterstützung Cover: Concept & design: JUNG: Kommunikation GmbH. Cover photo: Christine Garcia Urbina ELIZABETH BAR IN FREIBURG NICK & NORA IN KARLSRUHE Enrico Albrecht brought his cool bar des Ministeriums der Justiz und Concept, editorial, graphics: Joachim Negwer, Christiane Würtenberger, Thomas Zwicker, Anne Schüßler, Fabian Teuber, concept from Frankfurt to Baden- für Europa Julia Haude, Christian Calmano, Dr. Hartmut Kobrow Art direction: Maja Schollmeyer, www.cross-media-redaktion.de It’s Gin o’clock Detective work Baden. Enjoy the views over the Black Photo credits: Joachim Negwer (2), TMBW/Achim Mende, Gregor Lengler Sunny SouthWest Germany: TMBW/Achim Mende (3), Dietmar Denger Just for fun: Europa-Park, Johannes Vogt, Anne Schüßler (2) Stuttgart Region: Gregor Lengler, British colonials reckoned that it Crime novel fans know Nick and Forest; look up at night and spot the Christiane Würtenberger (2), Stuttgart Marketing GmbH Stuttgart Beer Festival: Christoph Duepper Upper Swabia & was always time for a gin and tonic Nora as the tough American private constellations. You can even hear the The Allgäu: Christiane Würtenberger (5) Black Forest: Dietmar Denger (5), Fabian Teuber, TMBW/Achim Mende Unusual places to stay: Burghotel Hornberg, TMBW, Hotel Liberty, Ferienland im Schwarzwald GmbH, Hofgut Hopfenburg Maulbronn: - somewhere in the world. In Frei- eye from Dashiell Hammett’s owls hooting. Joachim Negwer, TMBW Castles, palaces and memorials: TMBW/Achim Mende (2), Gerhard Kassner, Timo Christ, Staatl. burg, a good place to start is at the “The Thin Man”. This shop sells www.roomers-badenbaden.com Schlösser und Gärten Northern Baden-Württemberg: Gregor Lengler (2), TMBW/Schönewald Lake Constance: Joachim Bar Elizabeth that opens at 10am. spirits, bitters and cocktail essentials, Eine Maßnahme im Rahmen der Negwer (4), Achim Mende Land of 1,000 beers: Christiane Würtenberger (3) Hidden Places: Susi Maier/Black Dots White Digitalisierungsstrategie des Spots Bars: Steffen Beck Photographie, KTG, Roomers, Elizabeth Bar Further information: SouthWest Germany Tourism www.bar-elizabeth.de but once a month, it turns into a Landes Baden-Württemberg Translation: Kathy Arnold/Paul Wade Litho: Laudert, , www.laudert.de Printing: C. Maurer Druck und Verlag cocktail bar. www.nicknora.de GmbH & Co. KG, 46 47 Come star-gazing with us – and have your eyes opened. The Mercedes-Benz Museum – more than 130 years of automotive history. Further information is available online: www.mercedes-benz.com/museum

The best or nothing.