Turin City Guide ®

TURIN CITY GUIDE ®

OCTOBER 2018 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

OUR FIRST ISSUE IN THE CITY The world’s premier name in travel publishing Welcome arrives in Turin ALL THE ALLURE to OF PIEDMONT Turin Several out-of-town destinations for a fun, relaxing experience

Turin October 2018

12 FOCUSFOCUS 30 FOOD&WINE the guide

22 SHOPPING The historic Rocca Boutique is a prestigious, luxury destination selling the world’s most desirable

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM jewelry and watch brands Al Bicerin

PHOTO © 30 FOOD&WINE A temple of old-world 28 SIGHTSEEING flavours, Caffè Al Bicerin #BoggiGentlemanStyle 8 HOT DATES Officina della is one of Turin’s multi- Scrittura award winning locales

32 DINING Discover the new Nuvola Lavazza food A GENTLEMAN project and enjoy a convivial experience at the Condividere restaurant

KNOWS THE VALUE 38 ENTERTAINMENT TURIN CITY GUIDE ® Featuring a spectacular Contents layout, the unique OCTOBER 2018 TURIN.WHEREITALIA.COM

OUR FIRST ISSUE IN THE CITY “vertical museum” at the The world’s premier name in travel publishing Welcome arrives in Turin ALL THE ALLURE 6 TOP IN TOWN 20 FASHION OUTLETS Mole Antonelliana is . to OF PIEDMONT Turin Several out-of-town destinations for a fun, OF TIME relaxing experience Enjoy the city, starting from Several of the best shopping dedicated to cinema its main landmark attractions. destinations not far from Turin. - Rule 36 - 40 SIGHTSEEING

I & MUSEUMS LL E E R RC A VE S O O RS BRENT A T ORE C C E HOT DATES GIFT GUIDE O 8 21 LI

U I

R The Egyptian Museum O C

O E ND This month’s round-up of art Take advantageS T R A D A of your stayD RUin D I D D I R U E N D A D A O S T R

O V exhibitions, music and folklore. Turin to enjoy this season’s latest S Allianz Stadium R

O E IN world R V A COVER O S NS A C E C O O R S O G R O S S S E T O A LI I U V I offerings. C O G R S O G R O S S E T O Mole Antonelliana. O S R

C C O R S O G R O S S E T O C O R S O G Photo ©Shutterstock R O S S E T O 12 STROLLING UNDER 45 ESSENTIALS

V I A B O BOR GO V I T T O R I A T T I C E L L THE PORTICOES 24 LUXURY TOP BRANDS Information and tips I

V I

E I A R L A B L S O T T IC E L L E C O C REGIO R C E

R E V I S O R O V A C O R LI P A R C O O BARR IER A to experience the bestU E G O A short guide to the centre TheG IN A M Abest fashion designers S I I S R T O B O RGA T A T A O G T DI ST U R A CO R A D R R A RS O A N T G H I F R A S S A T I O E Z C R I O T A ENE P I A ZZA S O F I A V V I A

S T that TurinSO has to offer R V I O A A T D of Turin, featuring eighteen for your high-end shopping. E OR E L

I L G O A C V T R T A C O R O R D A O A S O I E N

V R E G I N A M A R OG A L O S B O

A I V P R G H C E BARR IER A A E R R I E LIO Z A PIA Z Z A U T Z N kilometres of covered walkways. A I GENERAL E G DI MILANO SV ANTO NIO C O CI A R S O V I G E O R T A R B A L DIS SER A C O R S O M O O S O G I V A C C O V N O I E OR A C RS

C R A N O S N T O A A O C N G U M FR O N L OI A O I B V B A C VI D O R A R I R E C P A R I A C I O R A C H S O I R E G I N A M A C STAY IN TOUCH O D E R

C E O S O 33 MICHELIN-STARRED R O R A C A O R S O N R O T T MAPON PAGESS 46-47 O O R G H N E V R O S A E E I D R I V A A S E D R C R I I A O P A O A T N R A A T A E » S O R I Z L T I O C EC E R A N M L A Z OI I P EL A N I V D U G A I L B I A A O A SV C C U R B D E C OL S O A E B R I I N L A O S V O C H S IN F O G I VI C O R V O OR I A O R I C O R S T I C P P G OM H RS O E www.whereitalia.com/turin A P P S A I N RS C I C O A O R O I E C L O R O O O A U D I C O V V I A S S ROV E O C V R V A I S O C S O C

C V O O C O A O I R R I A R A L S O THE REGGE SABAUDE RESTAURANTS M C IA A R E G I N A M A S L I R I P

15 V R O A R T V B R A O E E I R O ' N A E S C D R C E S U M F O

G L E BI R I I V O A A

S A A A A V N N P A I I A C C G

A B E O ESI C V V O IA S A V S L O I A C L C O R RA S Giardino C O R O L A V S C I B E A Marino E S E O R G H I I NN I R C A Ferraro E A E A I C ' R V N I N A S S R VI R S

N I A P I E T E V R San Pietro in Vincoli O IA O C R I V O I E A Download all issues B C R I R T E T ON IN L A S O I O C A MPI DOGLIO D V V A IS A FR I B OTT D I T R T A E DR S A N D O S C E D R V I I P IA A R I L O A R O M I V I O A O O L SAN DO N A T O RIA D R C L ARGO V O O A A V AU Basilica di Maria Ausiliatrice N C I N O B RESCIA A SI V D A A I LI G GI O R V A N A U R O R A E Ex Scalo Vanchiglia T U ORSO T I R A R C R E R I N E R A C I A O O E S G P A R A IP B A P C T O S S E I P E V V The city’s royal residences are Four starred restaurants offering I A OL I IO R C P I A ZZA P I B A V V Lavazza I A EG M ARI A N A O V P A IT A R T I A V IN AUS I L I AT R I C E S O Nuvola I A R V AP N I ES C D V A O SO V I A I N R IA N O O R C E N S V D C I . RE V O R Z P GI IS R C O USE Chiesa di S. Gioachino A A M Piccola Casa della A S A R P O N PE Divina Provvidenza O O G R I A I E O C M I G L P I A ZZA BEN Cottolengo L N

C E EDE A V E I D E LLA T O E S TO I I A Z T T IU L V

www.magzter.com M I F ORCA C R O R O V E G Z T O D V

P ARELLA R E TTO I O I S I M A A O L O E N V C I A A O R V I A E O P M O R R N C O S L O A CO S A G M C I . S C H I . O O R S D ENI R AI A A S O . I I S G L O E A A Cimitero Monumentale di Torino R U R R N G E P A A G O R V L E C C I IE P G A A . O E R V O I P D F A C O O C GL A L E G I . I A O A S INCI U I C C V N V

PR S V EBB A P R O N C. C IA O I A G A V R R S MONT RS S A I F R I R O A C O L M CO N Anagrafe M V T O A O V O C D C H A R G H E R I CO V I A M I A A O C O RSO A R P A O A C A R R P O I D Centro Palatino A C C O X I A C L L Pala Fuksas A R R V H ESI O O M I O R S O N I A S among some of the best examplesR a triumph of flavours,S aromas I S A A E R A G A P A N I R A R M L P L V V I A T O C A Z A V I O A E RI Digital magazine store C I S A Mercato O O N A A I G B V P I A ZZA N G Alimentare T A R T T I V CO N E I A C H U IA G A O U A DO A L P I A ZZA A R V N S H S TATUTO O I O IAN A I A L Mercato FR O I N A A C S R A S O T R A O PIAZZA DELL A N S A A T E PIAZ Z A Ittico C R S I C COR R S Santuario E ESCO E V L E C V E L A N MANUELE O O V N della Consolata IA R EPU B B LIC A U I O I A FI C M G O A SA Museo della B O N A R O F FILIBERTO CH I O C E G SO R N BER NINI A P I A ZZA C N R N T V G S C T N C I D Mercato O R O O R I R A O O EL O O F E O ME Sindone R S S TATUTO Alimentare S D E L A PIAZ Z A C O V N I O CO N D IA IC L R O V R D C A R E O L A L E O D O R I A L A E Chiesa di E E G I A E L A C A D N C I IN I D D R A CAR O F EL D S Santa Chiara F O T A

RIVOLI R S N R O R C O A S I P O MI D I A R A C ORSO N PIAZZETTA V O M E I O E RAZI R E Chiesa di I S NZ G A G A N E E DELLA o IR I A I Sant’Agostino A V t R Z A S GLI F V A VISITAZIONE ’ IA r L RA V G E O C R A N C I A T S e H U A D F . b O N NG A O A C G R S E V I C O R San Giovanni A m R LUN P I A ZZA Z C Basilica OR I A R Chiesa del V H U Porta Palatina I O A A P Battista I Z I T I R A IA A Mauriziana ia A Carmine SA Giardino R r D M R I LUN V E A C V A NA GO E O S A V O I A N le O R IE DO I D Jan Palach l V O ORA S RA A a R O N D Ò R I D O O D VO T V I O Chiesa di Museo di Antichità A D GH R A N C I ME LL V G A LUNG ERA L F C A V I E S O L I N E San Domenico A C O R TR A IC D R IVELL A S P N I O L I G A O R C Museo O B IEN A G S I U O E R E L H R di Arte Orientale O L B S T . L M C E E E P E A S O V I F N B Area Archeologica A O R C S G P E D’ . A O C A A L A A A del Teatro Romano O O P G S I N L R A N A G P I L A R E of 17th and 18th European A N C I and untold creativity. I T O A L I I C N S ON R V I T T Chiesa di L IE S O S O F P R O A A S E S C O R N I I B San Dalmazzo I M N Galleria Sabauda A O O A I V R A O L D O T B R A U ci C D S E I I O N C A NT C IT TORINO O T I R Comunali O R G T O V N Campus Luigi Einaudi issuu.com/where-italia O O T C U O A S L A LARGO O R L F O D A S E Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista R I OR P R O A N O VIA QUATTR R S O S Chiesa del O C R O MARZO A N C I O M QUATTRO O T NI PA F R O C N Municipio di Torino B R Santissimo R O R O S O A O R R O O A O C A I E A S O T E G I V E M V MARZO M Nome Di Gesù TO C I S S N N S A E Giardini Reali Superiori P P C I N A LZ E G A T A A A I Basilica Corpus Domini C CTI R R I U S T M A O A O N A I V Palazzo N I A E E V A O V N U A P Chiablese Palazzo Reale di Torino I A R Chiesa dei Santi Martiri S A P V S G R I O N R E O G O I A M A A N H E L R O B B O S X T E S O E G O A R B ZZ A N S O S R I U A X I G I U I A S. Rocco T N O R A O L E ER A B S U A I C UNG R L G L V A I E P M I N F M R O A A I A Santuario di A R ZI L T O M P Real Chiesa di San Lorenzo G C M L U E M I Santa Maria V ANCHI GLI A V ANCHI GLI E T T A I A X L ARG O E C A O V A A I di Piazza A I G L N T I E S D T A I PA A V T Chiesa SS. Trinita M M ONTE B E L L O R O O R I N R O Z I O O N N N B O A V I A I Chiesa di N A O L Stazione E O A Z D E A L D E San Francesco D'Assisi M O O A I OC S A I I I L L C R L V S Porta B S I L V P L E A E I R I A L E PIAZ Z A I R A V E L N Digital magazines D A E PIA Z Z A Susa L T E A V V O M B U I A R AGLI Giardino Andrea Guglielminetti B O I O I T A RSO R A L E A O P CUCC A . N T M CAS TELL O N N R Z Giardino V T S A O R F E E C G V I A D RIANO G . N RI V E S N Lamarmora D R I O O E G I O A F O A C T A I O P B A O I T Mastio della Cittadella I Palazzo M I S R A A I VI R S E F T M A OT architecture. L I A G E NI C À VI I I I N C A R I O O V E B A O O Madama V T T I C T N LU A R V S E I L S N T Torre Littoria R Tribunale di Torino SO R A S A G B O C Teatro Regio I A GH R M I C C I O R N R O E S O I N I E T V I U T A I P O I A A C I A Auditorium Rai V E G I I N O V Chiesa di S T O L I I A T A A V NO I OR M T A U C ASSan Tommaso V N X IO R A I A O T O V A Giardino C M X O R Z . O LL O R ’ M Nicola N N B UN V M A A A R I S. Giuseppe . T B Grosa S A E V IN NT R A ANT I A G A I S A H A E G I F E C O TO I I A L A L H ON I S C O N C E V V V G F LZ I O NEL MONTE O O I U GU R O OR IA R M C Galleria Chiesa di Santa Giulia I Grattacielo Intesa Sanpaolo C S V CHE T NT O EU E OA A A S C S N V Teatro Carignano Subalpina I IA O C A IA V P O CI I A I P E V MI E P O V V N A Teatro Stabile V C I A SA G N CE T C E V I IA O V PIAZZA O A A R O O B N S N I V E V P I A ZZA L E UNGO S S I IO P ACCONIG I T T O A IO CARIGNANO A A Mole Antonelliana D E V L S N B R E R V I A P E T E D R E G I N A RA A A R P Teatro Gobetti G A S S R I Galleria S. Federico T I C F T E POLalazzo Carignano B L N R C M ARG HERI TA P I A ZZA V A O O Museo Nazionale del Cinema E S R O Chiesa di T I R A Museo Nazionale A E T L A N I O I I O C S O L FERINO N Santa Teresa D'Avila S S T R A A Museo del Risorgimento Italiano L R V A I T V A E E I I E S PIAZZA S T A B A B A R M Egizio I Biblioteca S Follow us on twitter C E Radio Rai Palazzo I L I CENI S I A E Museo della Radio A L Ponte Regina Margherita O F A O A VI CARLO L L Nazionale T Nuovo G B A e della Televisione C N E N U E R V R Chiesa I O V S VI I Chiesa di Universitaria N T A COR TT B ALBERTO O R H A I O O V O San Filippo Neri San Francesco Museo del Carcere Le Nuove I R C G M A IO M da Paola Dipartimento di Filosoa E S L E R N A L A MO I ACCH A . G L E V U T A FI e Scienze dell'Educazione S O A ’ M SA R T N E T V V A L RS I R A I E D E I P I A ZZA I A A B A LO POZZ O STR A D A O T I V O O C A I O T T A L O LF L M I A Z O E V A I A A R I O S V IO RS B C N O I N S S A N CARL O G NICC CO I E Chiesa dell’Immacolata A A A I E I V P U EB PO F Concezione S X S VI I T T O V I E N S O R C N O R X G A A Piazzale Aldo Moro P U N M O A A Chiesa della P E AGE T ’ R E UN C I V L L A I SS. Annunziata M E U N N R L A Chiesa di A P P A T A V I V E I N A A I IA E San Carlo Borromeo O D O A V E V O R IN R V O I DE D D I T C U B LL C I P ’A S OGR - O cine Grandi Riparazioni Z C O R I R P R ZI AP VI C Chiesa di Santa Cristina E E PROND A A M IV P I A ZZA E N A ES A E V Z I C A O IN R U C B PIAZZA M A A C CE V O V I E I S V CLN E A L N D I N U O AD E LI V O LL ZO O G G A O O @WhereTurin RD A A CARLO G R V E Chiesa della I I E L N O R L R V V H A I T T O R Visitazione O A A F E S O DA C D I O N EMANUELE II B T R N . N Parco AL A L I V FI LARGO VITTORIO C O S A L E T R EN S V L VI A ET R G I V Ignazio V E R O R AG G P I A ZZA S A M B I EL A O A V Michelotti I A AI A M S A M L A I CSH AGE I O EMANUELE II S O L V I A A A G U IDO I N O . C I T T I A C A O VI V M F T ST N E R M GO B E N O T G R . I M A R . O I G O Z Z A N O U I O A A A P I Chiesa Ortodossa P M G L LI M O I T A S Q I rumena di Santa Croce E C N T A G I S A O VI V A A P R S A I E I Camera di commercio di Torino C I T A C I R R S A N S G V N U R O T T VI V P I A ZZA A E O T IN U V I T T O T I C CE A E V Chiesa di Santa Pelagia OR CO A I A L D I P L I A N E E I VITTORI O Z . A N T R E E O A I L R V A B I I DE V S G N M EL E O VEN E T O A E BTeatro Vittoria N E R CORSO C O R A I I I S O Madonna degli Angeli I I O M G P L I I V R V C O RI A E R P I V T O A T A A C L T ’ L T M E V A A COR S O L S C I A C A Politecnico di Torino S VI L O T C S A A N R I V O O A E V E PIAZZA I MAGE U M M AUTUMN IN PIEDMONT RA D . U boggi.com R S PIETRO S R V A A A 16 A GI I Chiesa Ortodossa russa di San Massimo T A N PALEOCAPA R I T I V M A R I R A A A X O V I I T I X A V V I P I A ZZA HE R M A D A E A San Michele Arcangelo C A A V U N I T S I I C I A G T CUCC O ET I V I T R F PIAZZA O S V V O O T A A R A N N R O I PIAZZA PIAZZA PIAZZA I DO N CARLO I A A LAGRANGE L LFO E VI G I EL A A BODONI Conservatorio CAVOUR O S M MA FELICE Giardino Aiuola Balbo L O SS G Statale di Musica I T T Ponte Vittorio Emanuele I O N EO E I N M TE NT "Giuseppe Verdi" I T VECC A N Politecnico di Torino MA V I I A U H IL Chiesa di San Secondo Martire IO C O Q A L VI G IU S C A A R O ASI S Like us on A I E V CO Z O R VI ET P P I Chiesa Gran Madre Di Dio S O T H V A A A E I PIAZZALE G A C N D A Z S O M A Z R CC Chiesa di San Massimo E V O MONTE T A A I DUCA D’AOSTA D A M IL U I A T R Z I R I N E S Stazione di Torino N L S I E L U N I O CO M R O O C O C Porta Nuova O RS T A L O I E C O S O R A E S V S O S IA I A C D IRO L P UC E N C L G N Langhe, Roero and Monferrato: A NAN V A D OR V A A O L O O IA AN I I T T O SA R ’A R C OS O V V Z B C T D A I O O O O TA LF I Z R L R S A R O L R M I G I C O O O E E COR O NT V E E EVE A NI V E D I V I I I V A L IA IA C V S Tempio Valdese M O V P C A L facebook.com/WhereTurin AL AST B HI Comunità A di Torino A N U O N R RAN U E GG R P VI S N I G I E IO NG Ebraica R I M BOR G O ER O R A E CA U VIA di Torino O L E A I Chiesa di IT E IN A LE O N D I G San Giovanni N E U M NA V V Evangelista I P N I A I C O A O ME Z B N . U E I G M A E A D T L L S AN P A O L O Z S T L I I A R S E R R I B EL ORSO MA O O C I PIAZZA T I O G

MADAMA L S A S C BRU S O I O CRISTINA V V IA V Z G PARCO DEL IA V A GO AL N OR O E E E VALENTINO VE GG RN OR IO C H I OL Z S O NC avant-garde wineries, world-class I L C V I R ’A

O G A D I U G A I V I D

O VI V E ND C A O GOVE O R C S C O C R OCE T T A RN O C O F I U D L SE O O M R M E O S N I O C Follow us on Instagram A O R S O G S S E

O R A E RS M E A G U G L I A I N N O N V I A L O O O O R S

S R E R C O L M M A S P O E M O C T M O I E M A D IL O

E L N I Z Z N E R R E C S M R O N

O I

S S PIAZZA O OR cuisine and marvelous landscapes: R A

O T MARMOLADA RI C @where_turin C R VI

A A I RA BE N V S R E IA TOM Castello del Valentino M S S AN SAL V A R I O MAS E S O U VA F U LPER MA G C O A C C I AL E US R O S O C A R L O A A N R I V

R EO E

I IL SO R E R S L N E

O L L O R A C G O

O O S S D E S I O L L O I I S R U O L

O G G OR

| Via XX Settembre 11/C (Ang.C.so Matteotti) | Tel. +39 011 531.363 AN E TORINO C C S Z

A S A ’ I A A B D V R O Museo di Antropologia Criminale O BOR GO P O E C O O R IM R N I Z Z S S O S R B Borgo Medievale D O A N T del Valentino C A Teatro Nuovo E MAS

SANT A RI T A VEM VI O O S N C O R S O | c/o Stazione Porta Nuova - Via Nizza | Tel. +39 011 562.20.17 D A N T E OR A I V L I G H I E C O R I PIAZZA SANTA RITA A RS C O DA CASCIA R S O S O D A N T E

U C A A L I G H I E C Z R I A

R www.wheretraveler.com 3 I ETIC I N I Z S V O I S A N O E

E N VI S

O UNIO O O C N O O S P D A R I S S U A CO C O R G RB S O O B R A M A N T

A O E I RS

V CO I L

EL V

A N

E AGN G

MIR AFIORI NORD A IETIC I

V NNI OV A O V S N O E A I S S G A RB O O U N I O N RS O O O S O A C RS COR O PIA ZZA IC A A RUN C A S Z LI I B V P O LONIA R G O I O IN M Z Eataly Torino I N I Z C T

A N O G E N N Ospedale Regina Margherita O D A I

VE I N O I A V

O RS Z N V A O I SA V S C A B V I A Pinacoteca Giovanni WHERE TORINO 207x277 FW18 ed ottobre.indd 1 20/09/18 10:22 R e Marella Agnelli O V I A G I O R O S R Lingotto CO A Museo dell'Automobile di Torino C A VOR E T T O SOTTO LINGO T T O PA SS AGGIO O LING P A OVIETIC O A TT V S O O

IMIGLI I G E N T A

I N LL U N I O N E V VE O Lingotto Fiere

A I RS V A AGNE O I L I C A

I NN ' I A D

V VI Ex Area Fiat Avio Lubricanti À O Stazione Torino Lingotto

GI IO UNIT

P O NIZ Z A O C S RS O R S V I A O M I LLEFONTI O COR C T R A I A N Torre Regione Piemonte

O A

Z Palavela

N I Z

V A A I O

LI V N Giardino Corpo E G I G Italiano di Liberazione

IM A I T C A O V N I

R S L

O VE A

I T T I I R A A I I V V D' A N O A O À

T I NAG NE PI

Palazzo del Lavoro UN

IA O V OVIETIC S

R MIR A FIORI SUD S O Z VIA O C AI . VIG LIAN L I E V I A O N O R A T O V I G CORS L I A N I P I AZZA O USD U N I O N E F RAT O B E NGASI . ROSS E RS LLI D O C I

NR I A I V

P O

E O

M A

A 5

5 UN

L E

A E

R C E R A I RO OT R

M E

R OVIETIC EI

S VIA S

U N I O N E O

RS O C

BORGARE T T O T

O A IN N G R O E T O N IN R Z E I TO A

AL L I V E IA V S N I CHELI N O U D O N C O O GI T I D P R S B O O A I O R T R V I E

NOI S T E O M O N C ALI E R I O IN R IN A R 5 T O 5 A T O VI

AL I V STUPINIGI

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi

500 m YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

EDITORIAL ®

whereMAGAZINE Turin www.whereitalia.com/turin

WELCOME TO TURIN WHERE ITALIA SRL Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. Only a few years ago, it would have been T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 [email protected] difficult to imagine Turin as an international www.whereitalia.com/turin tourist destination. Then, suddenly, the city PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Andrea Jarach reawakened, and visitors began to spread ([email protected])

the word saying, ‘In Italy, in addition to Rome, EDITORIAL (PROEDI MEDIA GROUP) Andrea Jarach Venice, Florence and Milan, there’s a city MANAGING DIRECTOR Daniele Misrachi ([email protected]) Publisher distinguished by the dignified elegance of its Where® Italia architecture, an Italian MANAGING EDITOR Alessandra Finzi FLORENCE CITY GUIDE ([email protected]) Paris, boasting a ® MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Amal Angelotti, Carey Bernitz, Sophia Bertoli, Elena Binda, noble, glorious past and a present infused FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM JULY 2018 Simona P.K. Daviddi, Livia Fioravanti, Giulia Minero, with revolutionary technology.’ Jasmine Piazza, Stefania Vida, Chiara Zaccarelli As part of its mission to provide ART DIRECTION Floriana di Maio

information, Where® decided to DESIGNERS Who was Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale enus? include Turin in its portfolio of V ITALIAN-STYLE WEB EDITORIAL STAFF WHERE MILAN PROJECT and other stories Chiara Fonzi IS ENDORSED BY GIFT GUIDE Chronicles Our pick of the best MILAN seasonal trends from the CITY golden GUIDE ([email protected]), ALL THE ALLURE must-visit destinations, using the olden days OF TUSCANY ® Several out-of-town Fabio Lancini (art direction) destinations for a fun, relaxing experience 2018 classic format and distribution ALL YOU ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, CAN DO MILAN.WHEREITALIA.COM Milano Panoramica, Shutterstock method that has made Where® IN THE CITY SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS a leader in Visitor Publishing CARTOGRAPHY Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). City Map © Where®Italia srl. 2018 - Original Map by both in Italy and throughout Urban File - www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Network Map © Dmitry Goloub – the world. Where®Italia srl 2018

If you’re reading this MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, magazine, then you’re a Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, SIGHTSEEING Paola Zannoni ([email protected]) | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING guest at one of the best | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto hotels in Turin. The reliable ([email protected]) information found in Where® will ensure PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT MANAGER Paola Grilli that you get a wonderful sightseeing ([email protected])

experience during your stay in this amazing HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER Maria Granata city. And, for more information, visit ([email protected]) HOTEL INFORMATION SERVICES Cristina Garbini www.whereitalia.com. ([email protected])

SUPPLEMENTO DI WHERE® MILAN REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010 WHERE ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.

IN ITALY Where® is published in Milan, Venice, Florence and Turin by Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Media srl and in Naples by IES Comunicazione srl

EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS WHERE® TURIN È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI TORINO WHERE® TURIN IS AVAILABLE IN TURIN’S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS TURIN.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION

Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Published in association with Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered MVP trademarks of Morris Morris Visitor Publications Visitor Publications.

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

4 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 5 www.wheretraveler.com 5 [ SIGHTSEEING]

MORE AT PAGE 40 Top in town MAP PAGES 46-47 factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the 2 7 13 5 wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10

MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum of Cinema. 11

151 15 14 ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011. An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avant- garde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium. 12

BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from

SHUTTERSTOCK the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which PHOTOS © rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13

REGGIA DI VENARIA MOLE ANTONELLIANA artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future VIA PO PROMENADE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean- name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of bride in 1714. Don’t miss a visit to this A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th purchased by the municipality who decided to François Champollion once said: ‘the road to France, who took up residence here in 1600. magnificent residence, distinguished by the via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo make it a monument to Italian unification. Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2 The view of the city from the Panoramic Tower remains of its original 18th century decorations absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its is spectacular. 4 and furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the construction it was the highest brick building in MUSEI REALI della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie Europe. Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now PARCO DEL VALENTINO Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO which connects it to the square of the church of Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host squat square base topped by a large dome with owned by the Italian government. The museum Located on the banks of the Po River, and world heritage site. 6 the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most imposing pantheon-like shape. 8 Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 observation platform either by elevator or on sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, popular park. Its interior houses numerous TEATRO REGIO foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a The Regio is one of the most important Italian PIAZZA SAN CARLO PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, UNESCO world heritage site and a part of the theatres on the European scene, offering an Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km marking the beginning of a major urban circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was commissioned by Marie Christine of France from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, MUSEO EGIZIO transformation and the enrichment of the Piedmont, the Medieval Village and Castle, and was designed by Filippo Juvarra and in true Parisian style with seemingly endless Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is dynastic collections, which now include artifacts the Botanical Gardens (1729). 5 inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an for celebrations and events. At the beginning of the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3 and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy the second in terms of the value and quality of VILLA DELLA REGINA Mollino, the only part of the original building Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9 took up permanent residence here. In 1919, its treasures outside of Cairo. In 2006, during PALAZZO MADAMA The summer country residence of the House of that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th world heritage site. Its unusual gate, named LINGOTTO Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer always been a reference point in the city, from century as a court vineyard. It became known as ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is by This complex of buildings built in 1916, based Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000 Roman times to 1848, when it became the Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when Umberto Mastroianni. 7 on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT UNESCO world heritage site. 15

6 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 7 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES OCTOBER

OCTOBER FESTIVAL 12 13 OCTOBER OCTOBER THE PARADISE OF TECHNO Whether it’s discovering the events The European ‘cousin’ of the legendary Detroit Electronic celebrating Italian traditions, art and music Music Festival (DEMF), for thirteen years the Movement Torino Music Festival has brought the greats of Techno or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you and House music to the heart of Turin. Festival highlights this month’s unmissable dates. include all-night parties at Lingotto Fiere, events, workshops and disco nights across the city. Movement Torino is the largest indoor dance event in Italy featuring a stacked line- up of the genre’s biggest names. On stage, several of the world’s most revered contemporary electronic artists, plus dozens of DJs from the international dance and Techno scene will take turns to perform at the festival’s two main shows, during an action-packed week of fringe events hosted at several of the city’s coolest venues.

Movement Torino Music Festival 2018 Day 1 and Day 2: from 8pm to 5am Lingotto Fiere. Via Nizza, 294 www.movement.it SIMONE ARENA PHOTO ©

8 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 9 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES OCTOBER REOPENING TOUR

THE RENAISSANCE THE WHITE CITY OF A MASTERPIECE AND THE FROM ◄ One of Turin’s most precious BLACK CITY masterpieces has finally re-opened 18 ▼ Known as the ‘Magic City’, its doors to the public. After a OCTOBER Turin has long been associated long and complex restoration, the with magic and the occult. Chapel of the Holy Shroud, which According to legend, numerous parts of the 2 was destroyed by a devastating fire Piedmontese capital, highlighted by esoteric, OCTOBER on 11 April 1997, has re-opened to masonic symbols, are infused with a mysterious the public. This marvel of Baroque energy. An evening tour offers visitors a chance architecture, designed by Guarino Guarini, and listed to scout out several of the city’s most unusual as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997, is now landmarks, from Palazzo del Diavolo to the Church accessible to visitors. Following the special opening of Gran Madre, sites associated with the occult, but during the last weekend of September, from 2 also the more reassuring world of faith and white October the chapel will become an integral part of magic. the tour of the Royal Museums of Turin, with access PHOTOGRAPHY included in the ticket. To mark the re-opening, Torino Magica® Tour Palazzo Madama is showcasing an exhibition titled Every Thurs and Sat, from 9pm to 11.30pm. By appointment in Italian, English, French, Japanese, FROM MASS MEDIA TO WORKS OF ART ‘The Shroud and its Image’ (28 September 2018-21 January 2019). Russian, Deutsche and Spanish. ▲ Pop Art, a visual movement that exploded in the Sixties, was a global phenomenon that revolutionized the concept of artistic creation, adopting the same models as those of mass media to create art works. Chapel of the Holy Shroud 21 13 Photography was a key working tool for Pop artists, including Andy Warhol. The Turin exhibition features Musei Reali di Torino. Piazzetta Reale, 1. SEPTEMBER JANUARY more than 120 works including paintings, photographs, collages and graphic art by Pop artists and PHOTOS © ERNANI ORCORTE www.museireali.beniculturali.it 2018 2019 photographers like Ugo Mulas and Tony Evans, the renowned photographer of ‘Swinging London’. CAMERA POP. Photography in the Pop Art of Warhol, Schifano & Co CAMERA - Centro Italiano per la Fotografia. Via delle Rosine, 18 . www.camera.to FLORA FOTO EXHIBITION PHOTO ©

REVOLUTIONIZING ITALIAN ART ◄ The exhibition at GAM explores 26 24 the background history, birth and successful debut of Macchiaoli OCTOBER MARCH painting. The experimentation 2018 2019 conducted by this group of Italian artists marked a crucial stage in the renewal of late 19th century figurative languages, involving a search for a new path towards modernity. For the first time, the 80 works featured in the exhibition highlight GAM’s ENTERTAINMENT prestigious collection, with loans from major Italian museums, institutions and private collections. A GRAND BALL AT THE COURT ◄ An umissable opportunity to step back in time and experience The Macchiaioli. Italian art moves towards modernity the old-world opulence of the sumptuous Reggia di Venaria. GAM - Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea 6 The Nuit Royale, a fabulous court ball in period costume, is set Via Magenta, 31. www.gamtorino.it OCTOBER against the dazzling background of the Savoy residence, on the outskirts of Turin. The program includes an aperitivo and a ‘Grand Ball’ in the Galleria Grande, 18th century court dances in the church of Sant’Uberto with live classical music, a royal dinner in the Sala di Diana, dance performances, acrobatic shows, historical re-enactments, theatre groups and a DJ set. Dress code: wearing an 18th century costume is compulsory.

Nuit Royale 2018 From 8pm ISTITUTO MATTEUCCI

10 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 11 WHERE NOW | FOCUS

Elena Binda Lifestyle Editor Where® Italia SHUTTERSTOCK PHOTO ©

f you love princesses, royal weddings and romantic stories, you’ll enjoy the fact that many years ago this city was built to ensure that its queen could stroll through the centre without getting her head wet. If you’re a fan of figures and statistics, you’ll be interested to know that this city boasts 18 kilometres of porticoes, 12.5km of which are interconnected to form oneI of the largest and most convenient pedestrian areas in Europe. And, above all, if you’re an aficionado of architecture and the history of art, you’ll have a chance to admire the magnificent variety and prestige of Turin’s porticoes, true masterpieces of city planning. The result, from a certain point onwards, of careful planning, the porticoes were conceived with the aim of creating a vast, uniform effect. Turin’s porticoes have given it the nickname of a ‘drawing room city’ because, whatever the weather, you can stroll, stop for a chat, drink a cup of coffee, choose an item of jewelry or try on a dress, as if you were in a drawing room, while sheltered by its colonnades. In addition, they are renowned for their striking beauty – from the grey stone of via Po to the marble of via Roma, Turin’s porticoes are one of the world’s greatest architectural, aesthetic and socio-economic wonders.

A LITTLE HISTORY Although Turin has known the portico since Medieval times - a first nucleus existed in the old piazza delle Erbe – it was only at the beginning of the 17th century that the portico became a hallmark feature of the city. On 16 June 1606, a government ordinance established the building of the porticoes in piazza Castello, entrusting the project to architect Ascanio Vitozzi. The section earmarked for construction of the porticoes included the area between via Barbaroux and via Palazzo di Città, and was completed in 1615. The ordinance was signed by Charles Emanuel I of Savoy, the Prince of Piedmont and a member of the dynasty, under which, the Kingdom of Italy would be unified, two and a half centuries later. His aim was to embellish his ‘capital’ and to protect the royal family, in particular the queen, from downpours while travelling between palaces. The initiative was immediately embraced by numerous shop owners in the centre, who realized that their customers, would now, like the royal family, be able to admire their window displays, while sheltering Strolling The centre of Turin is a ‘drawing room’ from the elements. The number of porticoes thus began to increase, featuring eighteen kilometers of covered and with them cafés and shops, entrances to theatres, and later, cinemas, multiplied in this increasingly typical and recognizable under the walkways. Here is a short guide that will structure which decorated the sides of the streets and the edges of help you to enjoy a fascinating blend of squares with colonnades and galleries. The second part, designed history and interesting facts amidst historic and enhanced by porticoes, was piazza San Carlo (1630-1650), while Filippo Juvarra built the porticoes in the districts of Porta Susina cafés and captivating shops. and in the small square of the market of Porta Palazzo. In 1756, new BY ELENA BINDA porticoes were erected in piazza Palazzo di Città. In the 19th century porticoes were added in piazza Vittorio Emanuele I (now Piazza Vittorio Veneto), then in piazza Carlo Felice, and lastly in piazza Statuto, porticoes forming a belt which still surrounds the centre, between the Po river and the old bastions. The porticoes of corso Vittorio Emanuele II and Via Roma corso Vinzaglio, via Sacchi, via Nizza, via Roma, via Cernaia and via Pietro Micca completed the pedestrian ring, connecting the central

12 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 13 WHERE NOW | FOCUS WHERE NOW | AROUND THE CORNER The Regge Sabaude In addition to offering an overview of olden-day court life, the Regge Sabaude testifys to the modern history of Piedmont and Italy. BY GIULIA MINERO

he royal residences are easily accessible by bus or car from Turin, and are among some of the best-preserved examples of 17th and 18th century European architecture. They are a living Ttestimony to the prestige of the local monarchy, SHUTTERSTOCK the Savoy family, the first kings of unified Italy. In addition to Castello del Valentino and Villa Reggia di Venaria Reale PHOTOS © Piazza San Carlo Caffè Platti della Regina (see Top in Town), the favourite city- based residences of duchesses and princesses, and widely photographed spaces, including PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI and the fortress of Castello di Moncalieri, the the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of Saint Hubert Stupinigi was built in Baroque style in 1729, railway station of Porta Nuova to that of Porta invented the ‘sandwich’, a fact noted by a plaque PORTICOES OF PAPER AND LIGHT Regge Sabaude complex, listed as a UNESCO and the imposing 18th-century complexes and is only 10km as the crow flies from Piazza Susa. Nowadays, Turin’s porticoes act as an in the locale. Make sure to try the version with The myriad events that take place beneath World Heritage site in 1997, includes hunting of the Juvarra Stables and the Citroniera Castello. In addition to being used for long intersection between public and private life; truffles - now is the perfect season! Beneath the the colonnades are proof of the symbolic and lodges and country residences, embellished (Orangerie), now used to host exhibitions hunting expeditions in the company of areas under which the Torinese stroll amidst arcades in piazza San Carlo, the opulent decor practical importance of the city’s porticoes with gardens that reflect the sophistication and events. members of the local aristocracy, Stupinigi decorated ceilings, ancient shop signs and the of Confetteria Stratta (www.stratta1836.it) in the lives of the Torinese. One of the most of courtly life. Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, multimedia was often chosen by members of the Savoy massive portals of palaces. reminds visitors of its storied past as the historic popular is Portici di Carta (porticidicarta.it). installations enable visitors to reconstruct the household for celebrations and dynastic supplier of pastries to the House of Savoy, while, Held annually in October, this event sees the REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE history of court life, while the apartments of weddings. At the beginning of the 20th century, DINING AND SHOPPING from 1822 onwards, Caffè San Carlo, a venue gathering of dozens of independent booksellers Located inside the Park of La Mandria, King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and his wife Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent UNDER THE PORTICOES with an outdoor area, was the meeting place of in an area that for a few days, becomes the in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the adjacent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the A stroll through the centre of Turin is a truly patriotic reformists, causing it to be closed down ‘world’s longest bookstore’ . With an attendance the Reggia di Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style Castello della Mandria, are open for public headquarters of the Furniture Museum, and delightful experience, not only because of its several times due to ‘suspected subversive of 128 booksellers and publishers, 2.5km of complex built in the mid-17th century as a viewing, as is the room hosting the collection a space for events and concerts. In addition architecture. Above all, it will allow you to get activity’. stalls, 40 events and thousands of books that are glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. of royal jewels. On the last floor of the palace, to its original furnishings and paintings, into the spirit of the city. Although traditional In piazza Carignano, next to the Carignano either purchased or donated, on a yearly basis, Its present-day appearance is the result of above the monumental corridor known as the the museum hosts several masterpieces of window displays, edged with black and gold, theatre, you’ll find several other historical to the city’s public libraries, this fest of literature work by several prominent architects of the Galleria di Diana, discerning diners can enjoy cabinetry. The lodge’s beautifully manicured in the shadow of the colonnade, give many of establishments including Gelateria Pepino is not a once-off initiative in Turin. In fact, the city era, including Amedeo di Castellamonte, a delightful meal at the Dolce Stil Novo alla French gardens and internal spaces are open the locales an austere, old-world appearance, (www.gelatipepino.it). Established in 1884, it was boasts a strong, age-old relationship with books. Michelangelo Garove and lastly Filippo Juvarra, Reggia, the Reggia’s Michelin-starred restaurant. for public viewing, while its historic park, a part when you cross their thresholds, you’ll find here that the ‘pinguino’, the famous chocolate- It hosts an important International Book Fair; who designed many of its most beautiful www.lavenaria.it of the hunting reserve, is closed to the public several contemporary treasures. For a relaxing covered ice cream on a stick was invented. it’s one of the most important cradles of Italian www.ordinemauriziano.it break, head to one of the area’s many historic In the 20th century, Il Platti in corso Vittorio publishing; it’s home to a renowned school cafés, like Florio, established in 1780 in via Po Emanuele II (www.platti.it) was the favourite of writing and it’s the birthplace of several of CASTELLO DI RIVOLI (www.caffefiorio.it). It is said that every morning, haunt of Turin’s ruling class, including the Italy’s most famous authors. If you happen to Established as a military fortress in 1247, the before starting his audiences, the King used founders and managers of Fiat and Lavazza, and be in Turin during the event, check out the Rivoli Castle was the first residence of the to ask his councilors: “What is being said at the publisher Luigi Einaudi, who regularly met program to see what appeals to you most. Savoy duchy. During the 17th century, it was Florio?”, which was a well-known meeting here with novelist Cesare Pavesi. Highlights include events for children, meetings converted into an aristocratic residence, and place of conservative intellectuals. In the same When it comes to shopping, you’ll be spoilt for with authors and literary tours to discover the enlarged with the addition of a wing known street, Caffé Abrate, the ‘official supplier’ of choice! Turin’s arcades boast among the highest places dear to people like Primo Levi, Edmondo as the Manica Lunga, with the ducal picture breakfast to the Scuola Regia di Cavalleria, was density of shops in the world, there’s one every De Amicis, Guido Gozzano, Natalia Ginzburg gallery. Its imposing spaces are now the patronized by an illustrious roster of artists from 75 square metres. The city’s twelve, unbroken and, interestingly, Jean Jacques Rousseau and headquarters of a Museum of Contemporary the nearby Teatro Regio, including Puccini, kilometers of arcades host approximately Erasmus of Rotterdam. Art, which also hosts temporary exhibitions. Rossini and Tamagno. Other must-visit locales one thousand shops, for a total of 2,250 Lastly, look up, because, on 26 October, when The courtyard of the castle is also home in piazza Castello include the Caffè Baratti e window displays. The list includes the stand- the evenings become longer and darker, to Combal.Zero, a contemporary starred Milano (www.barattiemilano.it), an art nouveau alone boutiques of some of the world’s most it’s time for Luci d’Artista, a spectacular restaurant whose panoramic glass walls offer jewel, designed by architect Casanova, and prestigious brands, multi-brand clothing stores, event midway between a light festival and a glorious views across the countryside as well as the Mulassano (www.caffemulassano.com), small vintage gems, perfumeries, bookstores contemporary art installation, that lights up the Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi the surrounding castle. www.castellodirivoli.org where, in 1926, Angela Demichelis Nebiolo and more (see listings). city with art works, from October to January.

14 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 15 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN SHUTTERSTOCK

The Castle of Serralunga d’Alba PHOTOS ©

Asti and Cuneo. Particularly noteworthy among the most famous Italian red wine and is thought known as ‘the terrace of the Langhe’ thanks to the area’s many tourist attractions are its to date back to mediaeval times. The town its spectacular views, and head to Massimo numerous castles, including that of Grinzane is home to WiMu, a unique wine museum Camia’s starred restaurant for a fabulous gourmet Cavour. Built in the 13th century and currently that takes visitors on an immersive journey meal (www.massimocamia.it). In addition to home to the headquarters of the ‘Cavour through the history of viticulture via light, film other specialties, the area is renowned for Regional Enoteca’, the castle, in addition to and installations. The museum is set over three its famous three-lobed hazelnut, boasting stocking several of the region’s finest Doc and floors of the village’s stunning medieval castle, ‘Protected Geographical Indication’ status and Docg wines, also hosts the interesting Langhe and the tour includes a visit to the building’s used to make various sweet treats. If you want Museum (www.castellogrinzane.com). Other panoramic terrace and its ancient wine cellars to purchase these tantalizing specialties and must-sees include the Castle of Barolo and (www.wimubarolo.it). After visiting the museum see how they’re made, visit Giovanni Cogno’s Autumn in Piedmont The Langhe’s rolling hills its surrounding town, which gives its name to in Barolo, stop in the village of La Morra, better artisanal workshop (www.giovannicogno.it).

Avant-garde wineries, a legacy his is UNESCO’s official reason of changing colours and softly rolling hills. for adding the wine-growing Although geographically the Langhe, Roero of world-class cuisine and regions of the Langhe- and Monferrato are neighbouring regions, Where Nutella was born marvelous landscapes. All of Roero and Monferrato to its they all have different morphologies, and Everyone knows Nutella – the world’s best-loved chocolate spread - but not these things have earned the world heritage list in 2014. “An cultural characteristics. If you’re lucky enough everyone knows that it was invented in Alba in the Piedmont region. Because exceptional living testimony to to visit them in autumn, you’ll be able to enjoy areas of the Langhe, Roero and chocolate was rationed after the end of World War II, a pastry chef from Alba Tthe historical tradition of grape growing and their numerous offerings. The region’s varied named Pietro Ferrero had the ingenious idea of creating a sweet Monferrato UNESCO World winemaking processes, of a social context, landscape provides fertile soil for an impressive paste made with hazelnuts (which were plentiful in the region), sugar and Heritage status, resulting in and a rural economy based on viticulture. The array of local specialties: from superlative wine, the little chocolate powder that was available. Ferrero’s creation began life vineyards of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato to the prized white truffles of Alba, porcini as a solid block called pasta gianduja, which could be sliced and served on an elite tourist destination. are an outstanding example of man’s mushrooms and IGP hazelnuts. Located just bread. A few years later, it was transformed into a creamy, spreadable treat By Chiara Zaccarelli interaction with his natural surroundings.” an hour’s drive from Turin, these regions can be called SuperCrema, the forerunner of our Nutella. It was only in 1963 that This area is protected as a ‘cultural heritage’ accessed by car (several of the larger centres Michele Ferrero, Pietro’s son, coined the word Nutella (a combination of the which is symbolic, because man has managed can also be reached by train). Other options English word ‘nut’ and the Latina suffix for sweet - ‘ella’). Chiara Zaccarelli to shape it, giving it the unique characteristics include one of the many organized wine and The first, universally recognizable glass jar with the white lid, which has remained Travel Editor that it boasts today. tasting tours on offer. Ask your concierge. unchanged to this day, was produced by Ferrero in 1964 and immediately Where® Italia In this area, the vineyards of several of the became an instant hit worldwide. And in just a few years, Nutella had become an world’s most famous wines, including Barolo, THE LANGHE iconic food, loved by millions of consumers across the globe and celebrated in Barbaresco, Asti Spumante and Barbera, The Langhe are situated between the Tanaro numerous books, films and TV series. www.ferrero.it/nutella stretch as far as the eye can see, in a display River and Liguria, between the provinces of

16 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 17 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

Alba’s International Alba, Piazza Risorgimento White Truffle Fair

The truffle is a tuber-shaped fungus that grows underground. Although different varieties exist, due to the fact that it is particularly sensitive to environmental and climate changes and pollution, the white truffle of Alba – a rare, uncultivable species – is one of the world’s most highly prized fungi. A real subterranean gem, it is generally eaten raw and shaved over starters such as tagliolini, risottos, fried or poached eggs, and beef tartare. By C.Z. SHUTTERSTOCK CELORIA ILENIO From 6 October to 25 November, starred Italian chefs. Piazza Risorgimento this Piedmontese city hosts Alba’s is transformed into a ‘Salotto dei Gusti e An old underground “infernot” The Fontanafredda cellars International White Truffle Fair, a key dei Profumi’, a permanent exhibition that PHOTO © PHOTO © event on the tourist/culinary calendar of celebrates the finest culinary offerings the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato now of Piedmont and Italy with tastings and Lastly, an absolute ‘must’ for lovers of medieval of Alessandria, a real feat of architectural Tanaro river. Like the neighbouring Langhe, celebrating its 88th edition. Featuring a educational workshops. history and architecture is a visit to the Castle design that encompasses Mount Crea and its this area is renowned for its enogastronomic combination of culture, terroir, sensory The marriage between gastronomy, of Serralunga d’Alba, a beautifully preserved sanctuary, which in turn, is a UNESCO World and cultural offerings. Among its castles, the and gastronomic experiences, this year’s art, music and design is translated into Gothic stronghold (www.castellodiserralunga.it). Heritage site. If you prefer a historical visit to Castle of Govone is particularly noteworthy. event is dedicated to the relationship numerous fringe events, including the After the long walk up to the castle, take a an excursion, don’t miss the Eco Museum The castle is located in the province of between the earth and the moon. More presentation of ‘Alba’s White Truffle Glove’, break and treat yourself to a delicious gourmet of ‘Pietra da Cantone’ – a type of sandstone Cuneo and was formerly one of the royal than just a conventional fair, the event’s whose design was created by Patricia meal at the Da Guido restaurant located in the only found in this area – in Cella Monte. In residences of the House of Savoy strength lies in its ability to offer visitors an Urquiola and the ‘Lynn Davis, Patti Smith: nature reserve of Fontanafredda addition to informing visitors about the history, (www.castellorealedigovone.it). Located just action-packed program of cooking demos, a collaboration’, an interesting exhibition (www.guidoristorante.it). landscapes and art of Monferrato, the museum a short distance from Alba, the Castle of performances, experiential tours and art- combining photographs by American also organizes initiatives and events targeted Monticello is one of the most imposing and themed events. The main draw of the fair is photographer Lynn Davis, and poetry by MONFERRATO at highlighting the historical characteristics of best-preserved medieval buildings in the area the Mercato Mondiale del Tartufo Bianco singer/poet Patti Smith, hosted in Alba’s Stretching southwards, as far as the foot of the place. For some years now, the museum owing to the fact that since 1372 it has been d’Alba (the Alba White Truffle Market) Coro della Maddalena. the Ligurian Appenines, the Monferrato area has undertaken the arduous but worthwhile owned and inhabited by the Roero family of where, on Saturdays and Sundays (with From 27 October to 25 February 2019, occupies a fertile tract of terrain between the task of taking an inventory of the ‘infernot’ in Monticello (www.roerodimonticello.it). There’s special openings on 1 and 2 November), visitors to the Fondazione Ferrero can provinces of Alessandria and Asti. In addition the area. ’Infernot’ are dark, airless underground nothing that says ‘royal highness’ more than visitors can purchase this precious tuber admire a collective exhibition titled ‘From to numerous historic, cultural and outdoor spaces, carved out in stone, located beneath a castle. Experience what it feels like to be a whose authenticity is guaranteed by the Nothingness to Dreams. Dada and Surrealism activities, Monferrato is renowned for its houses and cellars that, in some instances, are prince or princess for one night and stay at the National Truffle Study Center. from the Collection of the Museum Boijmans gastronomic specialties. Nature, culture, art real underground tunnels. These works of arts, Castle of Guarene, an important stopover on In addition to the above, one of the events Van Beuningen’ featuring famous works by and religion combine in a walk that takes carved and modeled by artists, were either the Piedmontese Baroque itinerary which also most eagerly awaited by visitors is the Magritte, Dalí and Max Ernst. On the other visitors on a journey to discover the Nature used to store bottles of wine, or as pantries, hosts a hotel belonging to the Relais&Châteaux Alba Truffle Show, an event dedicated hand, between October and November, Park of the Sacro Monte di Crea, in the province because the temperature inside them remains chain (www.castellodiguarene.com). to cooking demos, the sensory analysis Alba’s Church of San Giuseppe will host constant. Several of these old ‘infernot’ are For real foodies, an absolute must is the famous of truffles, wine tasting experiences and ‘Milleunanota Jazz&Co. 2018’, a captivating open for public viewing, especially during sausage of Bra, a delectable product made from Foodies Moments, featuring different program of jazz and contemporary music the ‘vendemmia’ (grape harvest) or on special lean beef and bacon. Since it requires hardly interpretations of Alba’s white truffle by (www.fieradeltartufo.org). occasions (www.ecomuseopietracantoni.it). any ageing, it’s eaten fresh year-round and If you feel like sampling some wine, you’ll be traditionally served raw, usually as an antipasto, spoilt for choice. Although the majority of local or cooked in a sauce that is used to dress ‘tajarin’ wines are red and full-bodied, like Barbera, (typically fresh Piedmontese pasta) or polenta Grignolino and Freisa, you’ll also find a good (www.salsicciadibra.it). selection of whites, including Moscato. An Only a few kilometers from Bra, a trip to the absolute ‘must’ for wine connoisseurs visiting architectural complex of the Agenzia di Pollenzo the area is the Enoteca Regionale di Vignale is well worth your time. Built in 1833, as a country Monferrato. Located in a magnificent 17th residence for the House of Savoy, it now hosts century ‘palazzo’, the Enoteca is a great place to the first University of Gastronomic Sciences taste and purchase some of the area’s best local in the world. This university was founded wines (www.enotecadelmonferrato.it). and promoted by the international Slow Food association, which studies, protects and ROERO disseminates the agricultural and enogastromic Roero is situated in the northeastern part traditions of countries worldwide Castle of Monticello of the province of Cuneo, to the left of the (www.agenziadipollenzo.com).

18 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 19 [ DAILY TOURS ] WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

ROLEX ► The Datejust is the modern archetype of the Fashion outlets classic watch, thanks to aesthetics and functions that transcend changes in fashion. The new generation ‘Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36’ also LUGANO GIFT comes in the Roselor Everose version and is MENDRISIO available with a large selection of dials. Technical BRESCIA Not far from BERGAMO characteristics include an Oystersteel and 18 ct Turin, in Everose gold case, a 36mm diameter, a white dial NOVARA TRIESTE Vicolungo GUIDE and Roman numerals. www.rolex.com MILANO Piedmont, The Style Outlets ? don’t miss a trip ? to these Torino Take advantage of a stroll Outlet Village through Turin to treat shopping TORINO FERRARA ALESSANDRIA yourself to an accessory, a ◄ BRUNELLO CUCINELLI destinations PIACENZA offering discounts MAR fragrance, a jewellery item The Brunello Cucinelli Mondovicino ? ADRIATICO world of sneakers has been all year-round. Outlet Village GENOVA or some other alluring BOLOGNA ® enriched with a new leather stylish detail. Where model featuring a balanced THE APPENNINI RIMINI MAR LIGURE MOUNTAIN RIDGE brings you the pick of the combination of materials, to PISA best seasonal trends and create a sophisticated contrast VENTIMIGLIA FIRENZE guarantees that you of textures. One of the numerous accessories crafted won’t leave empty-handed! in the town of Solomeo in the LIVORNO ANCONA heart of Umbria and produced TORINO OUTLET VILLAGE VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS MONDOVICINOSIENA OUTLET VILLAGE Giulia Minero in Italy, according to the words Open on March 2017, Torino Outlet Village is Situated 40 minutes from Turin, in the Situated 1 hour from Turin, in the province of Lifestyle & News of Cucinelli “with respect for an elegant and relaxing place to spend a day’s province of Novara, this is the ideal place to Cuneo, Mondovicino Outlet Village offers a PERUGIA Editor people, the dignity of work shopping, thanks also to top-end restaurants spend an exciting day’s tour where shopping, unique shopping experience combining the Where® Italia and in harmony with the land”. and services for families. Open 7 days a week, entertainment and relaxation combine appeal of the fashion brands with the beauties www.brunellocucinelli.com 10am-8pm (Sat, Sun and festivities 10am-9pm). to satisfy all desires. of the environment (between the Langhe in • WHERE: at just 15 minutes from the centre Open 7 days a week from 10 am to 8 pm. Piedmont and the Ligurian coast). Open 7 days of Turin, 30 minutes from the main cities in • WHERE: take the A4 Torino-Milano motorway a week from 10 am to 8 pm. PESCARA and exit at Biandrate Vicolungo. Daily shuttle • WHERE: take the A6 Torino-Savona Piedmont and 75 minutes from Milan, near CORSICA GUIDO GOBINO ► the exits from the A4 and A5 motorways, the service is available from Milan. Departure from motorway and exit at Mondovì. Free shuttle A ‘must’ from the ‘Guido Gobino Selection’ Outlet is easy to reach at Settimo Torinese. Daily Turin - Piazza Carlo Felice, 63 (in front of Porta service is available from Turin, departure from of products created using only the finest shuttle bus service from the city centre and a Nuova train station) at 10am. For information Turin (Corso Vittorio Emanuele II cornerROMA of ingredients. The Gianduja Chocolate and weekly service from the main tourist resorts in and reservation: 02 867131 www.zaniviaggi.it. via Sacchi) at 9.15am, return at 4.50pm from Cocoa spreads contain 45% IGP Piedmont Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta. • WHAT: 150 prestigious designer stores – Mondovicino Outlet Village to Turin. For hazelnuts from the Langhe hills, with the • WHAT: a must for all shopping lovers, Torino including Armani, Missoni, Trussardi, Tommy MARinformation TIRRENO and reservation: 011 19704670 sole addition of precious hazelnut oils and Outlet Village offers 90 stores (Armani, Coach, Hilfiger, Cavalli, Calvin Klein and Twin Set www.zalunviaggi.com. ▲ TURIN EYES cocoa butter. guidogobino.it Gucci, La Perla, Michael Kors, Guess, Timberland, – offering clothing for the whole family, • WHAT: over 80 prestigious designer stores – In Turin, in via Mazzini, there’s a shop dedicated Tommy Hilfiger and more) specializing in sportswear, homeware and beauty products at including Alviero Martini 1a Classe, Enrico Coveri, NAPOLI exclusively to the production of high-quality, bespoke clothing, accessories and footwear, household discounted prices of up to 70% all year round. Elena Mirò, Fratelli Rossetti, Calvin Klein, Kappa, eyewear. The store’s artisanal workshop creates all articles, sport and personal care under top • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo The Style Liu.Jo and Ungaro – offering clothing for men, types of frames (square, round, elongated or patterned) Italian and international labels, and with Outlets also hosts art exhibitions, events and women and children, sportswear, homeware interpreted in a wide range of designs, colours and discounts of up to 70% all year-round. other initiatives for a enjoyable day’s outing. and beauty products at discounted prices of up materials. www.turineyes.it www.torinooutletvillage.com www.thestyleoutlets.it to 70% all year round. www.mondovicino.it SARDEGNA

◄ CULTI HOUSE TORINO ◄ TERRE DEL BAROLO ‘Black Tux’ is the new eau de parfum, One of the world’s most unique wines, created exclusively for the Culti Houses. Barolo Chinato epitomizes the essence of A harmonious fragrance, featuring heady Italy. Aromatized with a bitter-sweet taste, notes of incense and black pepper that it’s used as a dessert or meditation wine. blend seductively with hints of vanilla Its aromatic persistence pairs perfectly and amber. In addition to Milan, Naples, with dark chocolate. Located in the Bari and Forte dei Marmi, Turin is one of province of Cuneo, the Terre del Barolo the cities chosen by Culti Milano as an winery has become a reference point for Italian brand ambassador. www.culti.com wine connoisseurs. terredelbarolo.com

20 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 21 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN ACCESSORIES that take around 20 days to execute, can be W The Guidelines M delivered worldwide. www.turineyes.it. Mon-Sat H E O Regina 9.30am-1pm/2.30pm-7pm. Via Mazzini, 33. R C This directory, grouped by category, is a list of E . T E R Located in the picturesque piazza Gran Madre, T: 347 1882008 Map G6 R A V E L establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. this shop, selling handbags and accessories, will satisfy your every whim, whether you’re lovers BEAUTY MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold of Ash biker boots, Golden Goose sneakers, at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the Aquazzura pumps, Castaner wedges or Stuart Alkemy This small space in the centre of Turin concocts coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). Weitzman’s jeweled sandals. It also stocks a magical alchemies for body, face and haircare. selection of bags, bijoux and auteur fragrances. The Alkemy line includes strictly natural SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from www.reginashoes.it. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; nutricosmetics and dermoactives, whose 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take Tues-Wed 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm; Thurs-Fri effectiveness lies in the power of the natural the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed 9am-7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via plants and ingredients used, which no other on Sundays (except those located in central Turin) Villa della Regina, 3. T: 011 8193029. Map I6 and on Monday mornings. company in the world combines or makes Ask your concierge. Turineyes available, including Klamath, the ultimate Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is If you’ve always dreamt of a bespoke pair of wild superfood. www.myalkemy.it. Mon-Fri generally included in the price of goods. glasses that don’t press down on your temples, 9.30am-1pm/2.30pm-6pm. Via V. Alfieri, 6. leave a mark on your nose, adapt perfectly to T: 011 5581755. Map E4 the shape of your face, and are practical yet TAX-FREE SHOPPING L’Arcade des Parfums » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to stylish, then this is the place for you. Unique This niche perfumery, whose name is inspired reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased models of both prescription and sunglasses, and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: [email protected]

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By June 2018, more than 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 10,000 merchants are

PEPPERSOLUTIONS located in Turin. This allows hundred of thousands © of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as Rinascente department stores, McArthurGlen Designer Outlets, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, Rocca espouses Turin to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. In addition to the world’s most coveted jewelry and watch brands, the Rocca Boutique also houses DINING the Bridal Collection for those looking to pop the big question. By Elena Binda Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as ast Christmas, Turin received an “As a native of Piedmont, I believe that Turin >> Rocca 1794 a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include unexpected gift. The historic Rocca is a thriving, fast-growing city that is widely www.rocca1794.com the word “coperto”, a small surcharge Juve: where to purchase L Boutique, a prestigious, luxury appreciated by an international public. Our via Roma, 290. T: 011 5629260 corresponding to the cost of the service and destination and the only retailer in the city aim is to make our shop a reference point,” Open Mon-Sat 10.40am-7pm; bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, the official merchandising semiformal clothing is usually considered de selling the world’s most desirable jewelry explained Giorgio Damiani, vice-president Sun 10.40am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars In 2017, before Cristiano Ronaldo joined the team, there were 23 million Juve fans worldwide. and watch brands, reopened its doors to the of the Damiani Group, which acquired the are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ It’s therefore no surprise that the Juventus Megastore is one of Turin’s most sought-after public. It comprises two floors, four hundred Rocca chain in 2008. area is specifically offered. shopping destinations. Established in 1897, the club has won everything. Today, Juventus is square metres, nine brightly-lit shop The Group’s new venture is deeply rooted in Set meals: prices are per person and usually the owner of the Juventus Stadium, a museum that sold its millionth ticket in May 2018, and refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). windows and top name brands, including an important chapter of history. In the past, a futuristic Megastore, located at the stadium’s headquarters. Its spaces and structures have € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / Damiani, Rolex, Omega, Breitling, Venini, the Rocca Boutique in Turin was distinguished €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. been created to highlight over 600 official products for maximum effect. A mega-screen, two Salvini, Bulgari, Blancpain, Lange & Sohne, by its illustrious clientele, which included innovative transparent LED video walls and two self check-out totems have been designed Ulysse Nardin, Baume & Mercier, Longines, Bliss patrons like Giuseppe Verdi, Gabriele SIGHTSEEING to facilitate the purchasing experience, while ten hot presses enable fans to personalize and Tissot. Its spaces, curated down to the last D’Annunzio and Luigi Pirandello, in addition The information provided on museums and their ‘bianconere’ (white and black) jerseys in only two minutes. In addition to selling books, monuments is verified as meticulously as detail, show Rocca’s renewed commitment to Rocca’s close working relationship with possible. However, data such as telephone posters and memorabilia, the space’s well-stocked bookstore hosts ‘Meets&Greets’ with to Turin and, together, reveal the brand’s the Royal House of Savoy. numbers, opening hours, prices and the players, offering ‘Juve’ enthusiasts a chance to take unforgettable photos, and get them revamped image. The store’s sophisticated, Apropos renewed commitments and accessibility of sites are all subject to change, signed with autographs. It’s worth remembering that prior to matches, spectators can access contemporary interior design revolves around important stories, the sales point also offers on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration nine pop-up sales points, one in each sector of the stadium, plus a Juventus VIP Store in the work, museum loans or changes the new open-plan laboratory, designed to the latest innovations from the Damiani Bridal Allianz Stadium’s Atrium of Honour. In addition to the megastore, the city also boasts two of management. Ask your concierge. offer direct contact, and a unique experience Collection: elegant declarations of love for Wedding rings from the D.Side collection official Juventus sales points. store.juventus.com in the art of watch manufacturing. the most romantic occasions. in white gold and diamonds.

22 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 23 I LL E R RCE A VE S O O RS BRENT A T ORE C C E O

ULI

O E ND S T R A D A D RU D I D D I R U E N D A D A O S T R

BERGER A C

O V

Allianz Stadium R

O E IN R V A O S NS A C E C O R S O S O G R O S S E T O I A V ULI GI C O R S O G R O S S O E T O S R

C C O R S O G R O S S E T O C O R S O G R O S S E T O

V I A B O BOR GO V I T T O R I A T T I C E L L I

V I

E I A R L A B L S O T T IC E L L E C O C REGIO R C E

R E S O R V I V A C O R LIO P A R C O BARR IER A E U G O G IN A M A S I RSO T O B O RGA T A T A O G I T DI ST U R A CO R A D R R A RS O A N T G H F R A S S A T I I E Z CO R I O T A ENE P I A ZZA S O F I A V I V A S T SO R V I O A D A T E L OR E G O I L A C V T R T A C O R O R D S O A O A I E N

V R R E G IN A M A OG A L O S B O

A I V P R G H BARR IER A A E R R I E L I O C E Z A T PIA Z Z A U A Z N I GENERAL E DI MILANO SV ANTO NIO C O A R S O V I G E C I G O R T AR B A L DIS SER A C O R S O M O O S O G I V A C C O V N O I E OR A C RS C R A N S N TO A O CO N G U M B FRA O N OI OL IA B V A C VI D O R A R I R E C P A R I A C I O R A C H

S O I R E G IN A M A C O D O E R

C E R S O

O R A C A O R S O N R O T T O ON S O R N E G H R O S A V E I D R I I V A A S E R I D R C P A A O A T N TO R A O A E A S R I Z T EC R A N M L I O C E A Z OI I PE ELL A N V D U G A L BI I A A O A SV C U R B D E C OL S O E B R IA I N L A O S V O C H S F O G I VI C V O O OR I A O R I C O R S T I C PRINCI P G OM H RS O E A P P S A I N RS C I C O A O R O I E C L O R O O A U D I C O V S V I A S E R O ROV CO V V A I S C O C S O C V O O C O A I A O I R R R S O A C I A M R E G IN A M A S A I R I P R A V R V B R [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] T A O ELL E I R O ' N A E S C D R CO E S U M B F O

L BI R SHOPPING E IG I A V O A

A A A V N N AS IA I A C C P G

A E O ESI C V V O IA S A V S O I A C C O L R RA S S Giardino C OL R C I O L A V B E A Marino E R S E O I G H I NN I R C A Ferraro E A E A I C ' R I N A S S V R VI R S

N I A P I E T E by the arcaded porticoesV of Corso VittorioRN customers visiting the boutiqueSan Pietro in Vinc oareli offered a O IA O C R I V O I B R C R I A CLOTHING T E C A MPI DOGLIO T Emanuele II, conductsON ongoingIN research on its relaxing, scented hand massage. www.jomalone. S O I O D V A IS ALE FRA V B D I OTT I T R N T A E S C DR signature style. Take an olfactory journey S amidst com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am–7pm; Luxury TopD Brands O E D V IA R I I MEN & WOMEN P A R I L O A O O R M IA V I luxury perfume brands,A fragrances created by Sun 2pm-7pm. Via Lagrange,O 4/a.O RIA D RL SAN DO N A T O V C L ARGO

O O A A V AU Basilica di Maria Ausiliatrice N C I N SI O Antonioli B RESCIA A V A A D illustrious Maître Parfumeurs, cosmetics and T: 011 4546467. Map F4 I LI G GI O R V E A N U Ex Scalo Vanchiglia T T I A U R O R A ORSO R A R C R E R I N E R A ASPESI—Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat C I This multi-brand boutique for men and women A O O makeup. The Arcade also offers a wideE range S G P A A R C B O A P S S T I P Melissa E V V E I in located in piazza Carlina, one of the city’s A I O 10.30am-7.30pm. Galleria San Federico, 46. R OL I of home fragrances and scented candles, I P I A ZZA P A A stroll through the streets B V V Lavazza I A EG M ARI A N A O Just steps from the MoleVIT Antonelliana, Melissa is P A main squares. Antonioli stocks a mixtureA of R V select bijoux,INCIP facials and makeup sessions. T A T: 011 5613577. Map F4 AUS I L I AT R I C E S O Nuvola I VI A R C D O AP N V I N C E N IO SO V A A of the centre, amidst elegant I much more than aI herbalist. Customers visiting R R A N unconventional,CES prestigious designer labels O R S O S V D I www.larcadedesparfums-profumeria.it. Open . GI RE V O R Z P IS C O USE Chiesa di S. Gioachino A A A M the space will find a Pvasticcola Casselectiona della of organic N A R PPE includingO Rick Owens, Jil Sander, Anne royal porticoes (that extend Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7.30pm; Divina Provvidenza I O G R I A E BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— O C M I P I A ZZA BEN Cottolengo L N products, including makeup, cosmetics, hair C A E G L I EDE Demeulemeester, Maison Margiela and Gareth V E D E LLA T A O SatS 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Corso Vittorio T I E T T O I Z V www.brunellocucinelli.comOpen Mon-Sat L for 18km across the city), and I F ORCA M C R O products, natural soaps, candles, cups and R O V O E GIUPugh. The choice of designerD labels and the P ARELLA Z T V E Emanuele II, 74/F. T: 011 5621148. Map D5 TTO I R O I I M A A

10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 8. T: 011 OS L E N V C A A O R teapots, perfumes and herbal teas, plus teas and M V I A E store’s interior decorO are a reflection of P Claudio O R RI N squares embellished with O S O L O A CO S G M . A CC I C H I O S D S ENI . O R A R I AI A S O O . S G infusions of all Ltypes. Its interior, decorated with A E Cimitero Monumentale di Torino 4407207. Map F4 Jo MaloneA London R U R Antonioli’sR personal style. His philosophy is based N GI E P L E C C A E G O R G V IA P A A

E . O I sumptuous architecture, is aO P R V A C O C D O GLI L The entire product range of this prestigious flower-patternedE G I wallpaper, hat stands, A velvet . F A O I on blending contemporaryU taste with alternative A S INCI I C C V N V P R V EBB S A P O N C. C IA R O I A G British brand is showcased S A at the airy boutique sofas and vintageA furniture,A is reminiscent of a V R R S O MONT unique opportunity to soak CALVIN KLEIN—www.calvinklein.com RS I solutions in a practicalF manner. IR www.antonioli. R C O L M CO N Anagrafe M V T O A I O V O C H C D located in the city’s central via Lagrange. V I French boudoir. InA addition R G H E R to organizing events, I CO eu. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 11am- A M O I A C O RSO Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma,342. A R P A C A R L R P O I O up the city’s authentic charm. A DA Centro Palatino Pairing a traditional design with advanced A C C O X A C N Perfumes, candles, diffusers, bath Land body its owners often pamper their clientelePala Fuks withas 7.30pm. Piazza Carlo Emanuele II, 19.A R R V H ESI O O S M I O R S O I A S R S T: 011 5613226. Map F4 A A A I E R G A P A N I A R M L P L wearable technologies, this MONTBLANC care and home products, all featuringV V I the iconic makeupA artists or manicurists. Twww.melissatorino. O It’s alsoC a great destination A Z I A T: 011 883253. Map G5 V I O A E RI C S A O Mercato O I N B V A P I A ZZA N A G Alimentare T A R T I V COR N EG I U smartwatch from the ‘Summit’ collection has a fragrances of Jo Malone London that can beA C H com. OpenT UMon-Sat L 11am-2pm; 3,30pm-7,30pm. IA GI A O A DO A P I A ZZA A R V N S H S TATUTO I O AN A for shopping enthusiasts. In CHANEL—www.chanel.com Open Mon-Sat I A Mercato FR I N A A C SO R Boggi MilanoA SO O T R A OL PIAZZA DELL A NC A A T E PIAZ Z A combined to create your own bespoke scent. All Via G. Ferrari, 4. T: 011 8395813.Itt icMapo H4 R SS I C bi-colour steel case and a navy blue leather strap. R Santuario E ESCO COR S E V E C V E L A MANUELE L O O della Consolata N IA R EPU B B LIC A FI U I 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. T: 011 O VI N C M O A SA Museo della B Men’s fashion isO CHa perfect blend of stylistic N A R the heart of the city, often FA FILIBERTO I ONEL C E G SO R N BER NINI A P I A ZZA C N R TT V GG S NCI D CO Mercato O R O O R I F RA O O O N O E O ME Sindone 5066699. Map F4 RS S TATUTO Alimentare S D L A PIAZ Z A CO V N E I O CO I I O D C A E A CO L R V R D referred to as ‘little Paris’, D L A L R A E OR O I L A E Chiesa di E E G I A E L A CAD NCI I D D F RA CAR IN S O Santa Chiara F O EL T A

RIVOLI RS N R O R CO A D I P O MI S A C Via G.L. Lagrange, 6c. T: 011 4782004. D I R A ORSO N O E I O RAZI R E PIAZZETTA V Chiesa di M S ZE G you’ll find the best fashion GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com I N EN A A E DELLA o IR I A I Sant’Agostino AG VIA t R Z A GLI F V A VISITAZIONE r L RA C V G E A O RA NCI Map F4 A T’ S e H UNG D F . b O A O N C G RS A E V I CO San Giovanni m UN Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, A R I L AR P I A ZZA Z C Basilica ORS brands. In particular, the Chiesa del Battista V HIA U Porta Palatina I T O A P RR IA SA Z a Carmine IA R Mauriziana i A M R I LU Giardino r V A DO C VIA A NA NGO O S A V O I A N E le R SIE DO I D Jan Palach l V O ORA RA A 145. T: 011 5627768. Map E5 a R O N D Ò RA I DO O D VO TE Luxury shopping O D G V I Chiesa di Museo di Antichità A H ANCI ME LL G UNG ER L F R A V E L A SO C MONCLER—www.moncler.com L VI N San Domenico I A austere and elegant via Roma A E P N OR I R IVELL A S O C I G C D I O R C Museo O IEN A A G STR I U O B E R EL • Emporio Armani: Via Buozzi Bruno, 5. T. 011 R di Arte Orientale O L B S E P T L A M C EL E E . A SO Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. V I F N B A Area Archeologica C S GH D’ A O OR A A P E . C and the parallel via Lagrange, A S I del Teatro Romano O R O P R I A 5 625977. Map F4 N N AL G PEL G LA L A ANCI I T O A I N S F R V I T T Chiesa di L C IE S O E R S SO Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. T: 011 5618744 P O A A S C OR N IO I B San Dalmazzo I MI Galleria Sabauda A O A R I AN O L V O do justice to the exquisite B D R A C D T U ci NTON S E I I O T O C A I Map F4C IT TORINO R O Comunali O R G T V C N Campus Luigi Einaudi O O T LARGO O R LU A S GUCCI—www.gucci.com L A E Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista D R I A SO R A N OR O P VIA QUATTR S O S Chiesa del O NCI Italian and international C R O MARZO O A M QUATTRO T O A C O O P R O SO FR O Municipio di Torino BR R Santissimo R OR R O A A O C A I E Open daily 10am-7.30pm. AN S O T E G I Nome Di Gesù V E M MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com V MARZO M T O N I O F O N I S S A C S A E Giardini Reali Superiori N N P C E N P LZ I fashions on display. G A T A A R I Basilica Corpus Domini C CTI Via Roma, 112. T: 011 4546632. Map F4 U S T Palazzo N M I A A O A N A I VI A Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. E E V A O V N U AR P Chiablese Palazzo Reale di Torino I A R A P E Chiesa dei Santi Martiri V I S S G I O R G N R O O M A N H Alternately, a reference point O B O A EL R B O T E S O E Via Roma, 104. T: 011 5187109. Map E5 G S O A R B A N A SO S ZZ R I U XX I G I U I L E ER A S. Rocco T I N OR UNG A O B C R A S E P U L A A L G N HERMÈS—www.hermes.com V I MA I I A M Santuario di R O A L T P E A Real Chiesa di San Lorenzo R Z I C L G MA for young, trendy fashion is Santa Maria U I M V ANCHI GLI E T T A I A X L ARG O V ANCHI GLE I A CO A OM A A L I FN T di Piazza A I G V I A IE A S Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-2pm/3pm-7pm. A T T Chiesa SS. Trinita M M ONTE B E L L O R O P D V R R PRADA—www. prada.com Open Mon-Sat O I I N O O N Z B O A I A O I Chiesa di N A O L V Stazione E O Z D via Garibaldi – one of the AN A L I E E San Francesco D'Assisi D M O O A OC S AN I I I S Via Roma, 124. T: 011 546971. Map xx Porta L B C R L V 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. V S P L E A E LL I V I A L E PIAZ Z A A R A M R PIA Z Z A E L D Susa LI T E V AN VI O E A U I SR Giardino Andrea Guglielminetti B O O I T A RSO longest pedestrian streets A L I EB A O P CUCC A N M CAS TELL O N R Via G.L. Lagrange, 2/q. T: 011 3710203. ZAGLI Giardino . T V T C A O RR F E E G V I A D RIANO G . N V E S N Lamarmora D O O I O ARI I A C A I ITALIA INDEPENDENT— G P T A O BR I TE Mastio della Cittadella I Palazzo M I S R in Europe – which runs from Map F4 VI R S A A E F I L I T M G A E OT C À I C O VI IA N B A A R I V E I O Madama V T T O N I O F O N I R www.italiaindependent.com SO C T N LU A V E I L S N Torre Littoria R Tribunale di Torino SO R A T Teatro Regio A G B O I Piazza Castello to Piazza C GH R N M I C C I O I O R N E I ETRO SS V I U T A I A P O I A E G I C O V I Auditorium Rai V L I I A A Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat ROBE DI KAPPA—www.robedikappa.comN Chiesa di S T O I A T A A V NO I OR M T A U C San Tommaso V N IO R T A A A Giardino O C V O MAS XX O Statuto. The ideal place for R O Z . ’ LL M R UNI Open daily 10am-7.30pm.Nicola Via G. Garibaldi, M B A 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. V N A A I S. Giuseppe R A . V T Grosa S AN ANTONI E NT B R I A G A I G A A E I E C O F TO I I AS H L OC A S L N I CHINO E V G F 33. T: 011 19886532. Map F3 LZ O V V NEL MONTE Via G.L. Lagrange, 31. T: 011 19885704. O I U R O GU O lovers of antiques and vintage OR IA R I Grattacielo Intesa Sanpaolo M C Galleria S Chiesa di Santa Giulia T NT C V EU OA ICHE A S E A C S V Teatro Carignano Subalpina IA O C IA P O C A V P E V M E P O I I V ANT I A C E V V Teatro Stabile N Map F5 C I A V I G I CE I IA O V S A N O PIAZZA A R O items is via Po, which links O B O S NI V E R A V P I A ZZA L E UNGO N IO S S P ACCONIG I T T O A O A Mole Antonelliana D E V L S N CARIGNANO A I SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— B R E P VI A E T E D R E G I N A RA A A R Teatro Gobetti G L I C S S R I Galleria S. Federico TPalazzo Carignano B I R F T E R OL NAP M ARG HERI TA C P I A ZZA V A O O Museo Nazionale del Cinema E R Chiesa di A T S Piazza Castello to Piazza Museo Nazionale T L A A I O E I I N www.ferragamo.com Santa Teresa D'Avila A O CO S O L FERINO N S S T R L’AUTRE CHOSE—www.lautrechose.com A del Risorgimento Italiano L R V A I T V A E ● E E Astrua 1860 I I S T S PIAZZA A A B A R M I Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. C Museo Egizio Biblioteca Radio Rai Palazzo I S I Vittorio Veneto. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- Museo della Radio EB A L L Ponte Regina Margherita E O CENI S I A F A O A VI CARLO L A Nazionale T Nuovo GL N B E N U E R e della Televisione C V Chiesa T O V COR S O VI ITT Chiesa di Universitaria N A BR ALBERTO San Francesco O R A O Via Roma,Muse o108. del Carce reT: Le Nu011ove 5625940. Map E5 VI OR San Filippo Neri CHI 7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 20/A. M A IO da Paola Dipartimento di Filosoa G L E S L E R N A A . A MO I G L EM V U T T A FI e Scienze dell'Educazione S O A ’ MACCHI SA RS R I N E V V A L I D R I A A A E E I P I A ZZA B A LO POZZ O STR A D A O TT I V O O C A T: 011 19468000. Map F5 I O T T A O L L A F L M A I I Z O E V A RS A R I O S A V IO B O C S A N CARL O SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com I N N S G NICC CO I E Chiesa dell’Immacolata A A I U I E V EB PO F Concezione S I T T O P V I S N S O R VI O E C A N R X X Piazzale Aldo Moro P U N MAGEN A Chiesa della P E Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 335. T: O T A A E UNG ’ R V L LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com C I SS. Annunziata L A I P NU R Chiesa di A M A A E L V E A TA A VI P I I E A D E San Carlo Borromeo O D R IN O V 011 535345. Map E5 • Open Mon 3.30pm- V VIA O R ON I E D D I L T C I U P Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 320. L’ C OGR - O cine Grandi Riparazioni A S I Z C O R R P E R Z I C Chiesa di Santa Cristina VI I E PROND A A V P I A ZZA E NAP 7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm- ES E V A A M A INCE Z R I PIAZZA C O T: 011 5620678. Map E5 O UMB CO V I A A V CLN E I S V E A LB NC D I N U O AD E LI V LL ZO A O RD O G G CARLO O G 7.30pm. Corso Racconigi, 32 bis. V T: 011 E Chiesa della A I A R E V L N O R LA R V E S O R Visitazione O A A F DA I T T O CHI I N N EMANUELE II B D R O . N ● T I Parco AL A V 3852651. Off MapFI C O Rocca 1794 L A L T R LARGO VITTORIO S E MARINA RINALDI—it.marinarinaldi.com EN Ignazio S V I L VI A ET R G I V V E A R O R S AG G P I A ZZA S EL M B V Michelotti I AI M A O A A A I O A M L L A I A NO HC S AGEN EMANUELE II O I V I A F A G U IDO I . C T I A C A T O T V M Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. ST E RS M GO O B E N T I V I M A R I . O I G O Z Z A N O A G R . Chiesa Ortodossa M UI O A A P P G L Q M I T A S I E WOLFORD—C www.wolford.it T rumena di Santa Croce S A O VI N V A GI A A P R S A I E Camera di commercio di Torino T A CO I I C R I R S A N O T T VI V E S Via Roma, 314. T: 011 5187050. Map E5 V N U R P I A ZZA A T O INCE U V I T T O T I C A Chiesa di Santa Pelagia CO E V OR A D I A I Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10am- N P L I A VITTORI O ZO E E A N T I L R E E L . A I V A I I V S G B M DEGLI E E N O VEN E T O LA N R C O R A E Teatro Vittoria I E 1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm;CORSO Thus-Sat 10am- I O G LI I I I O S P Madonna degli Angeli I V C O MAX & CO.—it.maxandco.com R V RI A R P I V T A EMBR A A C L T ’ T M A S O E V A COR 7.30pm; Sun 3.30pm-7pm. L L S C C I A C A Politecnico di Torino S O TT S A A N R VI A L O PIAZZA I V O O Open Mon 11am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- MAG E V E I U M M R RA D . PIETRO S S R A V EN A A Via A. Doria, 6. T A A PALEOCAPA GIU R I Chiesa Ortodossa russa di San Massimo R I T I VI M AR I A A A O V I 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 69. T I A X X V V I P I A ZZA HE R M A D A E ASI San Michele Arcangelo A A V I T: 011 531348.C Map F5 U N I T COR G T T CUCC ET VI I O T: 011 541276. Map F4 S F PIAZZA V O O VIA A T N N R I RO I A A PIAZZA PIAZZA PIAZZA DO N I A CARLO LAGRANGE A L E G I FO VI A BODONI ELL A M MA Conservatorio CAVOUR O S ONT FELICE Statale di Musica Giardino Aiuola Balbo L I Ponte Vittorio Emanuele I O MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com EO GE T T N M E NT "Giuseppe Verdi" I I VECCHI A NT Politecnico di Torino MASS V I IL Chiesa di San Secondo Martire I A U Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- O C O Q A L V G IU S C IA ◗ R O A ASI Astrua 1860 S ◗ Rocca 1794 7pm. Via Roma, 322. T: 011 5618172. A R E I E V CO Z O VI T P P I Chiesa Gran Madre Di Dio A perfect bag for business, this functional ‘Clear Crystal’ leaf elements S O TA V I A A A Via C. Battisti, 15 E PIAZZALE G Via Roma, 290 C Z S N D A R OfficialO Retailers in Turin M A Z E V O T A CCH Chiesa di San Massimo I MONTE Map E5 A T: 011 5613589 T: 011 5621467/5629260 tote is embellished with a distinctive LOUIS DUCA D’AOSTA D M IL U I A A highlight the refined elegance T I R Z IN R Stazione di Torino S E L L U N I S www.astrua.com I www.rocca1794.comE CO ON R O M O C O VUITTON Monogram Flower padlock in of these ‘Baron’ earrings C Porta Nuova O RS T A O I E E O S C OL R A MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com V S O S gleaming golden metal. D IA I A by SWAROVSKI’. UC L S L E N P CC GNAN N A A V O AIRO Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. D OR O V A I T T O L O IA AN I ’A SA R C R V V Z OS C OD I O B O T A T OL O R S A FO I Z R L R R M A I L C COR O ON O E E 24 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 O T VI www.wheretraveler.com E E EVE A G V E D 25 I V V I A I L IA IA C N I Tempio Valdese M C VI S A O L VAL PAST B H Comunità A di Torino U E IO N A N U R RAN GG RE P VI S N I G I IO NG Ebraica R IM BOR G O ER O R A E U VIA di Torino O L E A I Chiesa di IT E IN A L E O NCA D I G San Giovanni EN U M NAN V V Evangelista I P I A I C O A O ME Z B I . G U A L L M A D EN S AN P A O L O Z S I L I RE A ETT R R I B EL O O CORSO MAS PIAZZA T I GI MADAMA SO L

BRU CS S O O CRISTINA C R OCE T T A V IA V IA V Z G PARCO DEL IA V A GO AL N O E VALENTINO VE GG E E RN OR IO COR H I OL Z S O NC I L C V I R ’A

G O D D I U G A I V IA O VI V E A ND C G O OVE O R S C C O RNO O D C F IU LO SE O M R E O S N IM O C A O R S O G S S E O R A

E E RS M A G U G L I N N IA O N V I A L O O O O R S

S R E R C O L M M A S P O E M

C T M O O I E M A D IL O

E L N I Z Z N E R R E C S M R O N

O I

S S PIAZZA O OR R A

O T MARMOLADA RI C C R VI

A A I RA BE V S IA R M EN TOM Castello del Valentino S M E ASO U VA LPER U MAS GA C O F C C A I E LU R SO S O C A R L O

A N IA R V EO R E S AN SAL V A R I O I IL SO R E R S L N E

O L L O R A C G O O O S S D E S I O L L O I I S R U O L

O G G OR

AN E C C S Z S A ’A I A A B D V R O Museo di Antropologia Criminale O BOR GO P O E C O O R IM R N I Z Z S S O S R B Borgo Medievale D O A N T del Valentino C A E Teatro Nuovo M A S SANT A RI T A VEM VI O O S N C O R S O D A N T E OR A I V L I G H I E C O R I PIAZZA SANTA RITA A RS C O DA CASCIA R S O S O D A N T E

U C A A L I G H I E C R I A

I ETIC I N I Z Z S V O I S A

N O E

E N VI S

O UNIO O O C N O O S P D A R I S S U A CO C O R G RB S O O B R A M A N T

A O E I RS

V CO I L

EL V

A N

E AGN G

MIR AFIORI NORD A IETIC I

NNI V OV A O V S N O E A I S S G A RB O O U N I O N RS O O O S O A C RS COR O PIA ZZA IC A A RUN C A S Z I B V P O LONIA R O

O IN Z Eataly Torino N I Z C

A N O G E N NTIMIGLIOspedale Regina Margherita O D A I

VE I N O I A V

O RS Z N V A O I SA V S C A B V I A Pinacoteca Giovanni R e Marella Agnelli

O V I A G I O R O S R Lingotto CO A Museo dell'Automobile di Torino C A VOR E T T O SOTTO LINGO T T O PA SS AGGIO O LING P OVIETIC A O A TT V S O O

I G E N

I NTIMIGLI LL U N I O N E V VE O Lingotto Fiere

A I RS V A AGNE O I

C AL

I NNI ' I A D V VI Ex Area Fiat Avio Lubricanti À O Stazione Torino Lingotto

GI IO

UNIT

P O NIZ Z A O C S RS O R S V I A O M I LLEFONTI

O COR C T R A IA N Torre Regione Piemonte

O A

Z Palavela

N I Z

V A A I O

V Giardino Corpo Italiano di Liberazione G E N

A I C A O V NTIMIGLI R S

O VE ALI I T T I R A I A I I V V A N D ' O A O

N E GN A PI

Palazzo del Lavoro UNITÀ

V OVIETIC SO

R MIR A FIORI SUD S Z VIA O CO AI . VIG LIAN L I E V I A O N O R A T O V I G CORS L I A N I P I AZZA O DU S U N I O N E F RAT O B E NGASI . ROSS E RS LLI D O C I

N I R A I V P O

E O

M A

A 5

5 U N

L E

A E

R C E R A I RO

O T R

M E

R OVIETIC E I

S VIA S

U N I O N E O

RS O C

BORGARE T T O T

O A IN GN R

O E T O N IN R Z E I TO A

AL L I V E IA V S N I CHELI N O DU O

C O O

T I D P R S

O B O G I N A I RO T R V I E

O N I S T E O M O N C ALI E R I O IN R IN A R 5 T O 5 A T O VI

AL I V STUPINIGI

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi

500 m SHOPPING SHOPPING

The hallmark features of ASTRUA 1860’s jewelry include research and high-quality fabrics, offering and Marni. Other highlights include cosmetics rose gold, exquisite shapes, luxurious materials and attention clients a product that’s excellent value for by Santa Maria Novella and niche perfumes by to detail, exemplified in this sophisticated charm pendant money. www.boggi.com. Via XX Settembre, Byredo and Diptyque. www.sancarlodal1973. set with a pavé of diamonds. 11/c. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues- Sat com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am- Sizing 10am-7.30pm. Map E5 * Stazione Porta Nuova 7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 201. T: 011 5114110. Tax Free - Via Nizza. Open Mon-Sun 8am-9pm. Map F4 Women,s clothes T: 011 5622017. Map E6 and luxury leather goods. in shades of ochre and sand, you’ll find the Refund Guide SO San Lorenzo IT EUR US UK High-end watch brands culture of Culti, designed to stimulate the 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods Caramello An ideal destination for lovers of a chic, sought- stocked include Rolex, senses in a mixture of design, art and fragrance. and services, and is part of the European Union’s 36 32 1 4 Located in the centre of Turin, this large after style, this stand-alone store offers a Patek Philippe, Jaeger- The space houses all the brand’s collections 38 34 2 6 showroom spread over two floors, offers a wide selection of established and emerging brands LeCoultre, Cartier, Vacheron of room and home fragrances including value added tax system. 40 36 4 8 selection of men and women’s fashions. The including Loboutin, Azzedine Alaia, Isabel Marant Constantin, Omega, Officine diffusers, room sprays, candles, cosmetics and 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a assortment ranges from Elisabetta Franchi’s and Giambattista Valli. Additionally, its homeware Panerai, IWC, Cartier, Hublot scented pillows. www.culti.com. Open Tues-Sat VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services 42 38 6 10 feminine, contemporary collections to sartorial department features furnishing fabrics, unique and Montblanc. Open Mon 10.30am–2pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via C. Battisti, 3. supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 44 40 8 12 men’s brand Tagliatore, from Dondup, the design pieces and a careful selection of tableware 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am- T: 011 0361363. Map F4 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: 46 42 10 14 queen of Made-in-Italy denim, to Patrizia and furnishing accessories. www.sosanlorenzo. 1.30pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.astrua. • you are a non-EU resident; Pepe and Manuel Ritz. Caramello also has an it. Open Mon3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am- com. Via C. Battisti, 15. T: 011 5613589. La Belle Histoire 48 44 12 16 for personal or outlet in the Crocetta district, showcasing 7.30pm. Via Des Ambrois, 7. Map F4 Located underneath the Mole Antonelliana, this • the goods purchased are intended last season’s collections at affordable prices. T: 011 883531. Map G5 retrò-style atelier, overlooking a picturesque family use only and are carried in your luggage; Women,s shoes caramellostore.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Rocca 1794 courtyard, is a go-to destination for romantics • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds Tues-Fri 10.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Top Ten ROLEX RETAILER Master jewelers and who’ll find themselves surrounded by old 154,94 Euro (VAT included); IT EUR US UK Corso G. Ferraris, 2. T: 011 5175090. Map D3 Located in the highly central via Soleri, this watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca suitcases, trunks, wooden vintage furniture and invoice 36 36 6 3 two-level space has been, since its inception, a rates among the first importers of luxury brocade armchairs. The store offers a selection • the purchase is certified by an . This invoice Kristina Ti reference point for the city’s elite. Its discreet, 37 37 6.5 4 Swiss watches. Rocca pays homage to fine of almost exclusively Made-in-Italy garments, should include a description of the goods purchased, The standalone store of famous Torinese minimalist architectural style is reflected in watchmaking with a selection of the world’s most with the exception of French brand Lilith, Spanish your personal information as well as the details of 38 38 7.5 5 brand Kristina offers romantic, highly feminine its meticulous, well-defined choice of brands, prestigious brands including Damiani, Rolex, brand Hoss Intropia and Japanese brand Takaaki. your passport or any other equivalent document; collections designed by Cristina Tardito. At this ranging from the avant-garde to the most 39 39 8.5 6 Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, Omega, Cartier, Roger Other highlights include a collection of strictly • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the 40 40 9 7 warm, welcoming space, located just a stone’s prestigious international brands like Comme des Dubuis, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Breitling, Italian-made footwear and a homeware line. throw from piazza Castello, you’ll find clothing Garçons, Junya and Watanabe, to mention but a third month after the month that you bought them; 41 41 9.5 8 Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tudor, Venini and Salvini. www.labellehistoire.it. Open Mon 3.30pm- for free spirited, independent women, who are few. Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Rocca is acknowledged for its longstanding 7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1pm; 3.30pm-7.30pm; • several specific customs formalities are not prepared to sacrifice a touch of seductive Via Soleri, 2. T: 011 535360. Map E5 tradition of professionalism and expert Thurs and Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Montebello 15/g. complied with; Men,s clothes frivolity. www.kristinati.it Open Mon 3.30am- consultancy. Located in the shadow of the Mole T: 011 8136199. Map H3 • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer 7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Maria Verdelilla Antonelliana, its founder, Alberto Rocca, opened within four months after the purchase was made. IT EUR US UK Vittoria, 18. T: 011 837170. Map F4 Tucked away in a beautiful courtyard in Corso Re Les Coquettes his first boutique at the end of the 18th century. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must 50 46 36 36 Umberto, this alluring space houses a selection Housed in a 1920s Parisian-style apartment, Posh of coveted French and Japanese brands, by Open Mon-Sat 10.40am-7pm; Sun 10.40am- be shown at the customs exit point when leaving 52 48 38 38 1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.rocca1794.com. amidst vintage hat stands, drawers filled with At this multi-brand store, situated in the designers like Tsumori Chisato, Jerome Dreyfuss costume jewelry, antiques and pink leather EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items prestigious piazza San Carlo in the heart of and Jasmin Puech, and also showcases the Via Roma, 290. T: 011 5621467/5629260. 54 50 40 40 sofas, this unusual, whimsical concept store, into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs the city, you’ll find a selection of clothing, creations of emerging brands. Amidst fashion, Map F4 56 52 42 42 with a slightly bohemian air, offers a selection of BEFORE checking in). perfumes and accessories by several of the accessories, bijoux, perfumes and cosmetics, 58 54 44 44 clothing, delicious bijoux, cosmetics, candles, 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return world’s most prestigious international brands. this must-visit boutique exudes an atmosphere LEATHER & LUGGAGE perfumes and furnishing accessories. www. 60 56 46 46 This highly selective choice of clothing for of innovative taste, relaxed elegance and low- the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the Maledetti Toscani lescoquettes.it. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am- men and women includes big-name brands key femininity. www.verdelilla.it. Open Tues-Sat customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice This story began in 1848 in Montepulciano, 1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via G. Barbaroux, 12/l. like See by Chloè, Vivienne Westwood, Karl 10am-7pm. Corso Re Umberto, 27. T: 011 5172701. Men,s shoes Tuscany, when the great-great grandfather of T: 011 531943. Map F3 must be returned within four months from the date Lagerfeld, Comme des Garçons and Jean Map D6 the present owners opened a leather workshop. when the document was issued. Charles de Castelbajac. www.poshtorino. Mabì IT EUR US UK Today, although Maledetti Toscani owns shops 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian com. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed Mabì is a sought-after boutique that sells couture 40 40 7.5 6 DEPARTMENT STORE in Europe, the USA and Canada, it continues to retailer 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs clothing, French costume jewelry, artisanal (however, make sure that the shop you’ve focus religiously on time-honoured Made-in-Italy 41 41 8 7 10.30am-7.30pm; Fri-Sun 10.30am-1.30pm, Rinascente footwear and natural cosmetic products. Rather chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax craftsmanship. Hence, the creation of footwear, 42 42 8.5 8 3.30pm-7.30pm. Via Roma, 218. T: 011 5622365. Italy’s most prestigious temple of high-end than fast fashion, you’ll find a selection of Free” sign in its window). renowned for its delightfully aged appearance, Map F4 shopping is located in the city’s highly central authentic clothing with a nod to vintage, at this 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer 43 43 9 9 crafted in only the finest leathers, dyed with tree via Lagrange. This department store offers the charming boutique. Garments on sale include a immediate VAT cash refunds 44 44 10.5 10 San Carlo dal 1973 tannins and enhanced with real leather soles, and when the goods best in fashion for men, women and children, collection of women’s couture dresses designed An historic Torinese hand woven, hand-stitched artisanal bags. www. leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating 45 45 11.5 11 CONCEPT STORE alongside a selection of accessories, design, especially for Mabi by Maria della Rocchetta, one clothing store, located in its namesake square. maledettitoscani.com. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. the passenger from having to return the invoice to 46 46 12 12 homeware and beauty by the best Italian and of the two owners of the store, who has a passion This large multi-brand store, dedicated to Via P. Micca, 18. T: 011 5579134. Map E4 international brands. At its food market, you’ll for British-style floral prints. www.mabishop.it. the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at the best collections of clothing, accessories find the best gourmet Made-in-Italy foods, and Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am- major international airports or main border crossings. and perfumes, skillfully mixes designer a fabulous selection of prestigious international PASSION SHOPPING 1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Most major department stores have Tax Free labels with alternative brands; a repository of products. Don’t miss the renewed floors: -1 Via della Rocca, 2/m. T: 349 2818511. Map G6 Refund offices non-conformist ideas, where you can search Bagni Paloma . (home-food-design), 3rd and 4th floors (women’s for items that are never ordinary. The list of Located in an old 100sq.m. garage in the heart Poncif 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply fashion). Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 9.30am- brands available is vast and includes Acne of Turin, this delightful concept store carries Since 1986, this boutique has focused on a style the payment of a small administrative sum which 8.30pm; Sun10am-8pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. Studios, DKNY, Issey Miyake, Jil Sander, Lanvin clothing, furniture and various other items designed for women, who, in spite of their love is directly deducted from the amount of VAT T: 011 5170075. Map F5 including dishwashing liquids, black pepper, for minimalist, no-frills fashion, are nevertheless refunded to the traveller. candles, Japanese watercolours and colognes looking to make a statement thanks to the 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund JEWELLERY & WATCHES by Parisian ceramic artist Astier de Villatte. strikingly original designs and unusual colour The backbone of its fashion offerings include within a reasonable period of time, he or she Astrua 1860 combinations. In addition to the line of the Poncif niche brands like Mimì à la Mer, Laura Urbinati, should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the ROLEX RETAILER A reference point for luxury brand, designed and produced by an in-house The accessories featured at the CARAMELLO showroom include Ouigal, Maria La Rosa and Ishi. All the furniture French, Swiss and German timepieces, patronized team, all the collections showcased are based on aforementioned companies. this Orciani ‘Sveva Silver Color’ shoulder bag in leather with a used for display is on sale. www.bagnipaloma.it. by the Torinese and international aristocracy the same principle. www.poncif.com. Open Mon 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded niche finish, tassel charm, coloured edging and interior, hidden Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am- since the 19th century, Astrua is synonymous with 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm- directly by customs offices. opening on the upper part of the flap, and an adjustable strap. 1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. quality, reliability and technical expertise. This 7.30pm; Fri 10am-7.30pm. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, Via dei Mille, 30/d. T: 011 888569. Map G6 Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ historic boutique offers a wide range of products 5\f. T: 011 8173040. Map H5 portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund including new and pre-owned watches, jewelry, Culti House Torino Rrriot shop glass art, perfumes, candles, writing instruments At this small, charming boutique decorated Tucked away in the creative, multi-ethnic district

26 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 27 SHOPPING [ RINASCENTE] One-stop shop

BOTTEGA VELASCA SAN CARLO DAL 1973 LES COQUETTES See this page See page 26 See page 27

of San Salvario, this shop, distinguished by its minimalist decor, mixes men and women’s clothing with vintage jewelry and accessories and young, Esoteric Turin creative brands. Thanks to ongoing research, Rrriot strives to offer its customers a range of products Turin is a city of mystery, magic and legend. Its ‘magical’ significance is that are always different and innovative. Its aim is attributed to its geographical position, along the 45th parallel where the Po to introduce Turin to Northern European brands designed exclusively for the Italian market. The best shopping and Dora rivers meet. More importantly, it creates the vertices of two triangles, www.rrriotshop.com. Tues-Fri 10.30am- a triangle of white magic and a triangle of black magic. This explains why Turin 1.30pm/3.30pm-19.30pm; Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. in Turin boasts numerous shops dedicated to arcane practices where you can purchase Via Berthollet, 25/a. T: 011 19500239. Map F7 books, incense, tarot cards, candles, plus anything else associated with the occult world. (C.Z.) SHOES Head to the historic Rinascente Bottega Velasca department store in via Lagrange ARETHUSA LIBRERIA EDITRICE PSICHE Located in the Borgo Nuovo district, south-east to discover the latest innovations of this At Italy’s oldest occult bookshop, Founded in Turin in 1978, this publisher, of the centre of Turin, this artisanal shoe (and accessories) store for men offers customers an established in 1948, you can find a publishes and sells works related to ever-evolving shopping universe. authentic Made in Italy experience. Renowned for comprehensive selection of publications, medicine, naturopathy, psychology, its craftsmanship and Italian excellence, Bottega books, magazines or series dedicated to spirituality, sophism, Buddhism, Taoism Velasca offers a selection of classic, casual and spiritual, hermetic or esoteric subjects. and numerology at its namesake bookstore. formal footwear. Open Mon 4pm-8pm; Tues-Fri Arethusa also stocks a wide range of Also organizes meetings, courses and 11am-3pm/4pm-8pm; Sat and Sun 11am-8pm. tarot cards, pendulums, crystal balls, themed seminars. www.velasca.com. Via G. Mazzini 22/e. T: 02 Following the opening this spring of the new the floor is a 250 square meter area dedicated host an area devoted to lingerie, in a visually Tibetan Mala, bùzinos, runes and incense. www.libreriaeditricepsiche.info 94755460 ([email protected]).Map G6 -1 floor dedicated to homeware, design and to footwear, a go-to place for those who wear striking architectural display, infused with arethusalibreria.com Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm- Hole food, Rinascente recently revamped its 3rd this accessory as a distinctive element of their a romantic mood; the collections include Tues-Sat 10.45am- 6.40pm. 7.30pm; This multi-brand store located in the heart of the and 4th women’s floors offering the best style. Brands showcased include Casadei, items from Wolford, Paladini, Emporio Armani, Via G. Giolitti, 18. Sat 9.30am-12.30am. city’s historic centre sells high-quality footwear in fashion, thanks to a brand mix designed Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Marni, Sergio Rossi, Tod’s, Henro, Calvin Klein, Chantelle and Lejaby. T: 011 8173373. Map xx Via Madama Cristina, 70/b. distinguished by its original design. You’ll find a T: 011 6507058. Map xx interesting mix of trendy brands here, including exclusively for the store. The two new floors Hogan, Tory Burch, Fratelli Rossetti, Michael The children’s collections, featuring on-trend ESOTERICAMENTE Ixos, Moma and Strategia, alongside models feature unique, distinctive and eclectic offerings Kors and numerous others. Lovers of a casual- picks by big-name brands like Emporio A reference point in the city for lovers of LIBRERIA FENICE by Italian and internal artisanal producers. Also and are the ideal place to explore a wide chic look will be spoilt for choice when it Armani, Diesel, EA7, Il Gufo and Tartine et sells bags and accessories. Open Mon 3.30pm- the genre. After crossing a beautiful inner Located just steps from piazza Castello this range of women’s fashions, with areas devoted comes to sneakers. Brands include Adidas Chocolat, complete the shopping experience 7.15pm; Tues-Fri 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-7.15pm; Sat courtyard in via Garibaldi, you’ll find a vast well-stocked bookstore carries unpublished 10.30am-12.30am/3.30pm-7pm. Via G. Botero, 11. to contemporary and classic ready-to- Y3, All Star Converse, Nike, Premiata, Puma, at the via Lagrange store. assortment of ritualistic objects, talismans work of esoterica. Publications are also T: 011 5176602. Map E3 wear, lingerie and footwear. The floors are Reebok, Superga and more. of Salomonic origin, tarot cards and cards available in English, French, German organized according to a perimeter like shop- >> Rinascente Torino from all over the world, incense, crystals and and Spanish. In addition to seminars Cribì www.rinascente.it - Open 7 days a week. everything required for ritualistic practices. and themed courses, it also hosts events Established in 1996, and located in Turin’s highly in-shop concept with a multi-brand central area READY TO WEAR, Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075. The bookstore is large and well-stocked. and presentations. central via Lagrange, Cribi is a multi-brand hosting approximately 230 brands, of which LINGERIE & CHILDREN store selling minimalist, alternative footwear www.esotericamente.it www.fenicetorino.com more than 200 are new at the Turin-based store. The fourth floor is the kingdom of classic and clothing, featuring a combination of Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Mon 4pm-7.30pm; craftsmanship and experimentation to create ready-to-wear featuring the timeless allure Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Tues-Sat 10.30am-1pm/4pm-7.30pm. elegant, timeless lines. Best sellers include boots FASHION & SHOES of the latest collections by Aspesi, Emporio The new personalized Via G. Garibaldi, 18 (courtyard). Via Porta Palatina, 2. shopper pictures an icon by Fiorentini+Baker, pumps by Del Carlo and Spread over 1,250 square metres, the store’s Armani, Fabiana Filippi, Herno, Fay, Polo Ralph T: 011 4310499. Map xx T: 011 4362689. Map xx original clothing by Malloni and Liviana Conti. inspired by the bull, the symbol of the city, recreated www.cribibotique.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30 pm; new third floor presents contemporary ready- Lauren, MaxMara Weekend and other brands to-wear, expressed to perfection for a complete renowned for their contemporary classic with the letters of ‘Torino’ Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via G.L. and infused with a fresh, Lagrange, 38. T: 011 5611348. Map F5

THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE IS KINDLY THIS PAGE day-to-night lifestyle look. The focal point of style. The floor’s 1,200 square metres also contemporary style.

28 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 29 FOOD&WINE FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN and patented the famous Pinguino®, the classic ice FOOD SHOPS ITALIAN GELATO cream on a stick covered with chocolate that soon became popular throughout the rest of the world. Borgiattino Alberto Marchetti In addition to the classic vanilla version, Pepino A reference point in Turin for lovers of traditional You can sample Alberto Marchetti’s award-winning offers a variety of different options including Piedmont cheeses, including Tome and Fontine ice cream at various locations across the city. coffee, gianduja, mint and coconut. Open Fri-Sat d’alpeggio, Robiola, Gorgonzola, Ormea and The highlights of its ‘creations’ are its freshness, 9.30am-10.30pm; Sun-Thurs 9.30am-8.30pm. Castelmagno. Located in the heart of the city, simplicity and the quality of its ingredients that www.gelatipepino.it. Piazza Carignano, 87. this historic ‘bottega’ also offers specialties conjure up childhood memories of only the most T: 011 542009. Map F4 from other Italian and European regions authentic gelato. In particular, thanks to the including Reblochon from France and Cheddar Slow Food project, which protects small, local Mara dei Boschi from Britain, accompanied by wines and other producers, it offers a selection of unique flavours Its natural ice cream made from only the finest high-quality artisanal products. Open Mon-Sat including ice cream made with Leonforte peaches, ingredients without preservatives or additives, 8.30am-1pm/4pm-7.30pm. borgiattino.com. Ribera wild strawberries, Mombaruzzo amaretti won the venue a mention in the Gambero Rosso Corso Vinzaglio, 29. T: 011 5629075. Map C4 or Moscato Passito from Strevi. Open Mon-Thurs Guide, and is one of of the best ice cream parlours 12noon-midnight; Fri-Sat 12noon-1am; Sun 11am- in Italy. Mara dei Boschi, a constantly evolving ice Gastronomia (La) 11pm. www.albertomarchetti.it. Corso Vittorio cream parlour, uses innovative techniques to revive VEGAN A vegan delicatessen where you Emanuele II, 24bis. T: 011 8390879. Map E5 * the flavours of the past. Its specialty is Marotto, an can eat on-site, order take-aways, or even take Via Po, 35bis. T: 011 8141160. Map G4 * interpretation of Turin’s classic gianduotto made cookery courses. Its dishes, all cooked with Piazza CLN, 248. T: 011 544383. Map F5 meat-free ingredients, include Seitan, Russian with white truffles from Alba and hazelnuts from the Langhe. This fabulous milk-free ice cream is an and Capricciosa salad and a strictly anchovy- Gelateria Pepino ideal option for vegans. Open Mon-Thurs 12noon- free Piedmont green sauce for vegans who are UNIQUE Situated in Piazza Carignano, in the 11pm; Sat and Sun 12noon-midnight. Via Berthollet, fans of Piedmont specialties. The deli is located heart of Turin, Pepino is one of Italy’s oldest ice 30/h. T: 011 0769557. www.maradeiboschi.com. in via Dante Nenni, in the heart of Borgo San cream parlours that has been producing high- Corso De Gasperi, 57/e. T: 011 18891679. Off Map Paolo, Turin’s historical, working class district. quality ice cream since 1884. In 1939, it invented Open Mon-Thus 10am-8pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Sat 9.30am-2.30pm. gastronomiaveg.it. Via Dante di Nanni, 116. T: 011 3828605. Off Map

Làit e Formagg Located just steps from the centre, this small, well-stocked shop sells Piedmontese and other cheese specialties (Parmesan cheese, ricotta, aged cheeses, ‘tomini’, ‘caprini’, herb-flavoured cheeses and more) which can be sampled with tantalizing sauces, high-quality charcuterie and other regional specialties including grissini, lingue di suocera (a type of biscuit which translates literally as mother-in-law’s tongues) and other typical sweet treats, such as Piedmontese biscuits and hazelnut cakes. From October to January, you’ll also find precious white truffles from Alba. Open Mon 11am-2pm/4pm-8pm; Tues-Sat 8am-2pm/4pm- 8pm. www.alformaggi.it. Via Madama Cristina, 18. T: 011 6699407. Off Map

Latteria Bera A temple of old-world flavours Situated just a short distance from Piazza Castello, this old-world, family-run ‘latteria’ (dairy shop) sells Caffè Al Bicerin, which gave birth to the signature drink the ‘bicerin’, is one of Turin’s oldest, cheese and traditional Italian and Piedmontese charcuterie and pickles. The cheeses on offer multi-award winning locales in the heart of the city. By Sophia Bertoli include Parmigiano Reggiano, Robiola from Roccaverano, Caciocavallo from Potenza, Morozzo and Toma-flavoured butter. Other delicacies on Authentic flavours ade from espresso, chocolate and cream, Turinese ‘Signore’, politicians and intellectuals offer include freshly whipped cream and Greek the ‘bicerin’ was created in the Caffè with numerous other delectable specialties, yoghurt. Open Mon-Tues 9.30am-1.30pm/3pm- of Piedmont 7.30pm; Thus-Sat 9.30am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm. Al Bicerin, which jealously guards its including a mouth watering zabaione, prepared Turin’s most famous fresh pasta can be found at Pastificio Defilippis in the heart of via M www.latteriabera.com. Via San Tommaso, 13/a. recipe. Il takes its name from the special rounded on the spot, accompanied by whipped cream, T: 328 0166854. Map F3 Lagrange. It has been here since 1872, when Domenico Toso, chef to the House of Savoy, glasses without handles in which it is served. The small biscuits flavoured with marsala, moscato, returned to Turin, following the royal family’s move from Florence. Established as a small Pescheria Gallina locale in the picturesque piazza della Consolata lemon, passito or black cherry Ratafia. Another artisanal workshop in the 20th century, the high quality and unmistakable flavour of Now run by the fourth generation, this historic opposite the Sanctuary, was established in 1763 must-try delicacy is the Bicerin’s cake, made from Defilippis pasta have contributed to making via Lagrange the street of gourmets in search fishmonger located in Porta Palazzo’s piazza del as a shop selling drinks and sorbets, and only coffee and chocolate, iced with a white frosting. mercato has been in business for over a century. of the most authentic flavours of Piedmontese tradition. Fresh egg pasta made with select became a chocolate and pastry shop in the A visit to Al Bicerin is well worth your time to soak Its wonderfully fresh fish, mainly sourced from the ingredients, Piedmontese ‘tajarin, ‘plin’ ravioli, ‘agnolotti’ stuffed with braised beef and mid-1800s. The venue probably owed its success up its old-world atmosphere. Once inside, you’ll Ligurian Sea, guaranteeing that it was caught just ravioli filled with truffles, fondue or pumpkin, depending on the season, plus fresh bronze 24 hours earlier, can be eaten on-site. Customers to the nearby church: after attending mass, the feel that you’ve stepped back into the 1800s. extruded durum wheat pasta, can be purchased to take away, or sampled on-site. can choose their order directly from the counter faithful would flock to the café to indulge in a Its interior is decorated with original period or opt for its fixed-price menu, which include the Since 2008, its elegant spaces, decorated with wood furnishings, have also housed a delicious ‘bicerin’ after fasting for many hours furnishings, antique mirrors and glass display catch of the day, focaccia, a glass of house wine delicatessen and a gourmet restaurant on two floors, where you can taste the great classics (until 1957, the “Eucharistic fast” required no cabinets showcasing chocolate like works of art. and a bottle of water. Open Mon-Fri 07am-3pm; of the city’s pasta-making traditions interpreted in tantalizing recipes and accompanied eating or drinking from midnight to mass). Sat 7.30am-5pm. www.pescheriagallina.com. Piazza by a good selection of wines. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. della Repubblica, 14/b. T: 011 5213424. Map F2 Today, in addition to ‘bicerin’, the Caffè continues >> Piazza della Consolata, 5. Pastificio Defilippis. BarberinoVia Lagrange, Designer 39. T: Outlet011 542137. www.pastificiodefilippis.it. to delight the palates of tourists, students, T: 011 4369325. bicerin.it

30 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 31 Michelin restaurants

DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN TRADITIONAL PIEDMONTESE CUISINE Cannavacciuolo Bistrot Michelin-starred restaurants Located just steps from the Gran Madre, this Turin boasts four starred Michelin restaurants, true pillars of Piedmontese Turin-based bistro owned by multi-award winning cuisine. Get ready for your new restaurant to-do list. By Livia Fioravanti Italian chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, will not disappoint. The bistro offers guests a unique tasting experience featuring a combination of CASA VICINA northern and southern flavours. Highlights include Located in the basement of Eataly, with Vintage 1997 Fassona beef tartare, codfish with tomatoes, a separate entrance from via Nizza, eggplant parmigiana ravioli with a Provola cheese Casa Vicina celebrates the gastronomic sauce and pigeon with blueberries and burrata tradition of a famous family of Piedmont (a fresh Italian buffalo milk cheese made from mozzarella and cream). Open Mon 7pm-11pm; restaurateurs with an array of fabulous Tues-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€€. dishes that are distinguished by the www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it/torino. meticulous choice of ingredients and Via U. Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. Map I6 impeccable presentations. Although the Casa Amelie menu features the names of classical dishes of Piedmont and Italian culinary tradition, A stone’s throw from the Quadrilatero Romano, and only a few months after opening, this small, remember that at this family-run locale welcoming locale owned by Neapolitan chef simplicity was rewarded with a Michelin Guido Perino, was classified as one of the city’s star. Casa Vicina also boasts one of the top ten restaurants at the Fork Restaurants best wine lists in Italy, with a selection that blend of Mediterranean and Piedmont Awards, sponsored by Identità Golose. The encompasses every major wine-growing tastes and influence, further enhanced by chef’s creative yet simple cuisine features a region. an excellent wine list. Located just steps combination of classic and exotic fare, premium- Via Nizza 224 c/o Eataly Lingotto. from the Mole Antonelliana, the locale quality ingredients and seasonal products that T: 011 19506840. will delight your taste buds. Open Mon 7.30pm- boasts a warm, cosy atmosphere, ideal for www.casavicina.com 10.30pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm- a refreshing break during a sightseeing 10.30pm. €€. www.ristorantecasaamelie.com. tour of the city. In addition to the à la carte DEL CAMBIO Via Giulio, 4/b. T: 011 5211579. Map E2 menu, make sure to try its four tasting Set against the sophisticated backdrop of menus named after the elements: Earth, Cianci Piola Caffè the pedestrian area of piazza Carignano, A real institution in Turin, this bustling ‘piola’ Water, Air and Fire. Del Cambio, which opened in 1757, is not (a typical, laid-back Piedmontese tavern) offers Corso San Maurizio 61/b. T: 011 8126808. only a restaurant but a piece of history. authentic regional dishes at unbeatable prices. www.magorabin.com With tables spilling out onto the square in warmer Following an in-depth renovation, the famous 18th century ‘salotto’, the months, this delightful locale in the heart of VINTAGE 1997 the Quadrilatero Romano, serves Fassona beef favourite haunt of Italian politician and Vintage 1997 is the comfortable retreat of Condividere restaurant tartare, ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘tajerin’ (a thin version entrepreneur, Count Cavour, re-opened discerning diners in search of traditional of tagliatelle), ‘agnolotti’ and a vegetable-based in 2014 under the stewardship of chef Piedmontese fare prepared with healthy Piedmontese antipasto which includes tomatoes, Matteo Baronetto. Restored to its former ingredients and an excellent wine list. At anchovies and peppers in a sauce, accompanied splendour, the ‘salotto’ has once again by a great selection of wines. Open 12.30pm- the end of 2017, its longtime chef Pierluigi A cloud of flavours become a symbol of Savoy elegance and 3.30pm/6.30pm-11pm. €€. Largo 4 Marzo, 9/b, Consonni handed over the reins to the gastronomic sophistication: a perfect blend T: 388 8767003. Map F3 locale’s owner Umberto Chiodi Latini who Better value at mealtimes, but don’t forget the coffee. This is the underlying concept of Lavazza’s of tradition and the authentic flavours of reorganized the kitchen staff: all talented Consorzio Piedmontese cuisine and innovation. In food project, where sharing takes centre stage. By Giulia Minero professionals, who guaranteed the seamless In the heart of the quaint Quadrilatero Romano, addition to the restaurant, other highlights transition into the restaurant’s new Consorzio offers traditional cuisine, sometimes include the Bar Cavour, a sophisticated re-imagined with a twist, featuring ‘Made-in incarnation. The locale’s new chefs have cocktail bar, where the kitchen stays open Piedmont’ ingredients including Piedmontese continued to maintain the high quality of until late at night, the nearby Farmacia del n Turin, food, a design school and an Traditional Italian cuisine is re-interpreted in Lavazza headquarters beef, Cervere leeks, the hunchback thistles of the traditional cuisine served here, while Cambio which offers delectable pastries interactive museum are embodied in a contemporary key, creating haute cuisine Nizza Monferrato and freshly picked, garden- at the same time adding a few innovative created exclusively by Fabrizio Galla as the name, Nuvola Lavazza. This is a that can be enjoyed in an informal, relaxed grown vegetables. A harmonious combination touches to the dishes. I that pays tribute to customers, chefs, breeders, well as Del Cambio products re-imagined Piazza Solferino 16/h. T: 011 535948/5136722. groundbreaking project that has given the atmosphere. Standouts include ‘Gelato al farmers and wine growers. Its cheeses, sourced by Matteo Baronetto. Informal, quick and www.vintage1997.com Aurora district a new look. Parmigiano Bob Noto’, ‘chickpea waffles’ and from the best local producers, with a few forays contemporary, amidst its intricately carved Inside, two areas dedicated to dining – the ‘Modenese Brioches’. Particular attention is paid into the rest of Italy, France or Britain for a taste of wood panelling you’ll find a fabulous Condividere restaurant and the Bistrot, open to desserts that are served in a separate area, Stilton, deserve a separate mention. Open Mon- selection of sweet and savoury products Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm- to employees and guests, transform mealtimes aptly named Dulcis in fundo. which can either be sampled on-site or 11pm. €€. ristoranteconsorzio.it. Via Monte di into a convivial experience. Thanks to the This change of space is designed to highlight Pietà, 23. T: 011 2767661. Map E3 ordered to take away. recreation of an atmosphere typical of Italian the dessert-tasting experience and the end- Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 546690. È Cucina Sunday lunches, everything at Condividere, of-meal coffee ritual. Here, guests can choose www.delcambio.it This charming restaurant owned by theatrical from its furnishings to its place settings, has from an array of different Lavazza coffee blends Florentine chef Cesare Maretti features brightly MAGORABIN been designed to make guests feel at ease. accompanied by original single-servings lit windows overlooking the street, contemporary Thanks to the magical culinary skills of A concept conceived by Ferran Adrià, with of desserts. décor and an open-plan kitchen, now a popular

ANDREA MARTIRADONNA contemporary concept in Northern Italy. The chef Marcello Trentini, Magorabin earned set designs by Dante Ferretti and cuisine by chef’s underlying philosophy is based on the a Michelin star. Its dishes feature a skillful Casa Vicina Modenese chef Federico Zanasi, focused on >> Condividere c/o Nuvola Lavazza search for premium-quality ingredients with a

highlighting raw materials. Via Bologna, 20A. T: 0110897651. PHOTO ©

32 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 33 DINING DINING

particular focus on organic fruit and vegetables Scannabue by now ubiquitous Baos, steamed buns filled with (all dishes are served with a side, at no additional Located in the trendy San Salvario district, pork or crab, artisanal ravioli in broth, and specials charge) and conviviality. In the evening, guests Scannabue is extremely popular thanks to its that vary from day to day. All the dishes featured can choose from a meat, fish or vegetarian menu, warm, laid back atmosphere and its traditional, on the menu are made from carefully selected, accompanied by homemade bread and focacce. affordable cuisine, especially among the city’s strictly Piedmontese ingredients. Open Tues Piedmont food glossary Open Mon-Sun 12.30pm-3am/8pm-11pm; Sun 12 young, hip crowd. In addition to classic regional 6.30pm-11pm; Wed-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/6.30pm- noon-3pm. €€. cesaremarretti.com. Via Bertola, recipes, including rabbit tuna, beef tartare and 11pm; Sun 12.30pm-3pm/6.30pm-10.30pm. Via 27/a. T: 011 5629038. Map E3 classic starters, it also serves a variety of fish Belfiore, 16bis/d. €. T: 339 6112705. Off Map From a gastronomic viewpoint, the region of Piedmont boasts some of Italy’s Filiberti-Vini e Fornelli dishes. Its wine list features a great selection of Oriental Daily by Kiki finest, most diverse traditional foods. It is therefore no surprise that the world- Piedmont labels including Arneis, Nebbiolo and A small bistro in the Quadrilatero Romano, In addition to classic sushi, sashimi and tempura, famous ‘Slow Food’ association, an international, non-profit organization Barbera. It’s advisable to book ahead. Open daily infused with a decidedly French atmosphere. The this fusion restaurant also serves spicy meat and committed to giving food back its proper value, was born here. It is also here 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. scannabue. menu is divided into small tapas-style antipasti fish curries, ramen, steaming noodles, Pad Thai, it. Largo Saluzzo, 25/h. T: 011 6696693. Map E7 that the Italian University of Gastronomic Sciences, the first, and possibly only, (referred to here as ‘minuterie’) including Bao steamed ravioli, tartare, tataki and other creatives ‘university of taste’ in the world, was established. The amazing raw materials buns topped with brisket and barbecue sauce, Stefano Fanti al Circolo dei Lettori dishes. Indulge your sweet tooth with one of the offered by the Piedmontese region include meat, cheese, wine and truffles, codfish cheek with chard and a meat consommé. This unique restaurant is located at the Circolo dei venue’s original desserts including Azuki bean ice Mains include pastrami or ‘plin’ re-interpreted Lettori, in the city’s 17th century Palazzo Graneri cream and sweet Chawanmush, an egg custard dish and are the basic ingredients used to create deliciously rich, tasty recipes. in a Mediterranean version with Provola cheese, della Roccia. Formerly a private members club, filled with cherries and wild berries. Excellent value We’ve compiled a list of several Made in Piedmont dishes that are absolute Piedmontese Mixed Fry eggplant and tomatoes, accompanied by an the Circolo dei Lettori was a meeting place for for money. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7pm- must-tastes. By Chiara Zaccarelli extensive wine list, including several natural Turin’s intellectuals, writers, poets and artists, 10.30pm; Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€. www.orientaldaily.it. varieties. Open Mon 7pm-11pm; Tues-Thurs seen in the rows of artist portraits that line the Via Cesana, 72. T: 011 4470067. Off Map 12 noon-2.30pm/7pm-11pm; Fri- Sat 12 noon- restaurant’s walls. Its traditional culinary offering BAGNA CAUDA AGNOLOTTI DEL PLIN 2.30pm/7pm-midnight. €€. is reinterpreted with a contemporary twist by PIZZA This typical winter specialty consists of a These small filled ‘pouches’ are made with a Vitello Tonnato www.filibertiviniefornelli.it. Piazza Emanuele chef Stefano Fantini. For an overview of regional Filiberto, 6/a. T: 011 19173730. Map E2 specialties, make sure to try its tasting menu and, A Casa di Pulcinella sauce made from garlic, extra virgin olive thin sheet of dough, stuffed with a filling of An informal locale which, as its name suggests, Le Vitel Etonné if you’re feeling bold, opt for the ‘Finanziera’. oil and anchovies, to which butter, milk braised meat (usually a mixture of beef, veal Open 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€€. serves a fabulous Neapolitan pizza, accompanied The standout at this restaurant located in the and chopped nuts can also be added. or pork) and Swiss chard, dressed with the www.circololettori.it/il-ristorante. Via Bogino, 9. by a wide selection of craft and other beers. heart of the centre is ‘vitello tonnato’, one of the Bagna Cauda is served in a terracotta pan juices of the braised meat, or butter and T: 011 4326828. Map G4 Thanks to a natural, slow-leavening process, the great classics of Piedmont cuisine, an absolute pizza dough is light, tasty and easy to digest. pot and used as a dip for raw or cooked sage. The name ‘plin’ derives from the regional must-try at its namesake restaurant. Other Ingredients include the classics for which seasonal vegetables. If, on the one hand, dialect for ‘pinch’ because to form each specialties include ‘tajerin’, a fresh pasta prepared ETHNIC CUISINE Neapolitan pizza is renowned but also those it encourages conviviality, on the other, agnolotto you pinch the two sheets according to a traditional recipe with 36 egg Hafa Storie of traditional Italian regional cuisine, ranging yolks per kilo of flour, served with an array of especially if you’ve overdone the garlic, of pasta together. A Piedmont Moroccan restaurant. In Turin, this is from a Margherita topped with Bufala Campana seasonal sauces, ‘tagliatelle’ with Bra sausage and fairly common because the city’s second largest mozzarella to a version with Moncalieri sausage. you might find people avoiding you ‘agnolotti al plin’. The locale’s 19th century cellar, foreign community is the Moroccan community, Open Tues-Sat 12pm-3pm/6.30pm-10.30pm. €€. because you reek of it! PIEDMONTESE GRAN BOLLITO MISTO featuring barrel vaults and open brick walls, hosts and the restaurant is located in Porta Palazzo, www.acasadipulcinella.it. Corso Rosselli, 82. This elaborate dish of mixed boiled meats more than 300 labels. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am- the city’s multi-ethnic district par excellence. T: 011 595457. Off Map midnight. €€€. www.leviteletonne.com. Via San PIEDMONTESE MIXED FRY is made from seven cuts of Piedmontese While the Piedmontese offerings are created Bagna Cauda Francesco da Paola, 4. T: 011 8124621. Map G4 Bakery Restaurant & Pizza This uniquely rich local specialty of veal, including the thigh muscle, shoulder by Christian Milone, a young, talented starred Tucked away in a peaceful area of the city, not chef hailing from Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo, Piedmont consists of a combination and breast, and seven ‘improvers’, tongue, Plin & Tajarin far from the Porta Nuova station, this pizzeria/ the Moroccan dishes are prepared by Aicha the of fried liver, lungs, brain, sweetbreads, musetto (a pork sausage made in part from This is small eatery resembling an artist’s studio restaurants boasts a wood-fired oven that cook. Between a seven-vegetable couscous A Bain Marie, or hot water bath, is a slow, rather than a restaurant. The kitchen turns out turns out a slow-rising, Neapolitan-style pizza, liver veins, a slice of veal, sausage, sweet a pig’s snout) and a game hen, cooked and a braise with polenta, this restaurant lays small masterpieces like ‘plin’ and ‘tajerin’, the featuring a soft, crunchy dough and high-quality semolina, amaretti biscuits and apples, for several hours in boiling water. It is natural culinary technique that is used to the foundations for a harmonious, productive staples of Piedmont’s culinary tradition, which ingredients. Diners can choose from among a cook delicate foods, over a low temperature, cultural exchange. Open Tues-Fri 11am-3pm/5pm- accompanied by pan-fried carrots or mixed accompanied by seven tasty sauces, and are available with numerous fillings and sauces, variety of classic toppings, with a few regional using the steam the Bain Marie creates. It 12.30am; Sat 10am-12.30am; Sun 11.30am-4.30pm. vegetables. Not a dish for the a side of vegetables. One of the favourite including vegan and vegetarian options. Before, references including sausage and ‘friarelli’ €€. hafastorie.it. Galleria Umberto I, 10/13. preserves the softness of the dessert and after or as an accompaniment, diners can order (broccoli rabe), or gorgonzola, pears and walnuts. faint-hearted. dishes of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, T: 011 19486765. Map F2 facilitates the formation meat from select Piedmont producers, delicious Its well-stocked cellar boasts a number of highly and Vittorio Emanuele, Piedmont’s ‘bollito ‘focaccia’ made with stone-ground flour and Kay Essenza Peruviana & Piscobar select labels from Italy’s best wine producers. misto’ even has its own brotherhood. of a delicious crust on its surface. traditional desserts, including amaretto ice cream. Located in the Crocetta district, this top- Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Open Mon-Sat 12.45pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 7.45pm- level Peruvian restaurant is helmed by a team Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. www.bakerytorino.it. Via 10.30pm. €€€. www.plinetajarin.it. VITELLO TONNATO of young, knowledgeable staff. The menu Avigliana, 47/a. T: 011 4337074. Map B3 Via G. Casalis, 59. T: 011 3828128. Map B3 This classic ‘antipasto’ of Piedmont cuisine embraces the traditional flavours of every Crudo fa la Pizza! region in Peru, from its coast to its mountains, is made from poaching the ‘girello’ cut of Porto di Savona Crudo is an award-winning food company, right up to the Amazonian forests, interpreted ‘Fassona’ veal (a prized Piemontese breed One of the city’s oldest restaurants, Porto di boasting two osterie and a bistro in the city, with a gourmet twist. Signature dishes include Savona opened in 1863 when Turin was the capital renowned for their fresh high-quality ingredients, of veal) in a stock with aromatic herbs and Fassona beef tartare with fried marrow bone of Italy. The restaurant is on the city’s beautiful sourced from only the finest producers. It has now white wine, sliced thinly and served cold with and spicy mayonnaise, marinated scallops and Piazza Vittorio, and the warm interior is laid out taken on the challenge of making one of Italy’s tapioca, ceviches and even a South American a traditional sauce made from tuna fish, egg like a 19th-century tavern, with Liberty-style best-loved dishes. Nineteen different versions interpretation of Piedmont’s classic ‘bagnetto yolks, capers, extra virgin olive oil, white wine, decor, wooden boiserie, mirrors, 1940s furnishing of pizza take diners on a culinary journey that verde’ (green sauce), accompanied by a carefully accessories and walls decorated with period encompasses the whole of the peninsula, from lemon juice, salt and pepper. selected choice of Piedmont wines. Open paintings and photographs. Its menu – don’t be Favignana with Siccagno tomatoes, anchovy fillets, Tues-Sat 12 noon-2.45pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sun 12 misled by its name – features classic Piedmont Mediterranean tuna fillets, capers and Sicilian BONET noon-2.45pm. €€. kayessenzaperuvianapiscobar. cuisine including ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘agnolotti’, olive oil to Aosta, with mozzarella, Fontina d’Aosta business.site. Via E. Torricelli, 59. T: 011 5096002. Bonet, pronounced bunet, is a soft, rich, homemade pasta, braised meat, ‘fritto misto’, Dop and hand-sliced artisanal ham. Open daily 12 Map F2 deliciously old-fashioned dessert that can ‘bolliti’ (boiled meats), ‘Finanziera’ (a hearty dish noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€. pizza.crudotorino.com. of veal offal and cockscomb cooked with Marsala Oh Crispa! Via Palazzo di Città, 7/d. T: 340 2494060. Map F3 be eaten with a spoon. Bonet is made from wine, vinegar and herbs) and, in winter ‘bagna If you’re looking for Chinese street food that’s as sugar, eggs, milk, cocoa, rum and dry amaretti cauda’. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm- Gusto Madre good as any you’ll find in Shanghai, then you’ve biscuits. An unusual feature of this recipe is midnight. foodandcompany.com. €€€. Pizza is experiencing a renaissance. From a dish come to the right place. The kitchen is headed Bagna Cauda Bonet Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 2. T: 011 8173500. of the people to a gourmet specialty, interpreted that it’s baked in a Bain Marie in the oven. by a Chinese/Asti couple who prepare Chinese Map H5 with numerous dough varieties, flours and crepes stuffed with meat, Tofu or vegetables, the ingredients. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all

34 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 35 WERECIT UIE N M DINING High-quality Renetta apple cake, Pastry shops Torteria Berlicabarbis traveler information

The traditional/age-old art of pastry making is deeply rooted in Turin, and the city’s confectionery is famous throughout the world. Sweet treats like ‘baci TORTERIA di dama’, marron glacés and ‘giandujotti’ were invented here and exported BERLICABARBIS abroad, while others, which are more inherently Piedmontese, are well worth In dialect, discovering. It’s therefore no surprise that the city is inundated with top-level ‘Berlicabarbis’ means pastry shops. Although it’s impossible to mention them all, we’ve compiled a to ‘lick your lips’. list of several that are rated top in town. By Chiara Zaccarelli A particularly apt name for a pastry shop that turns out approximately CAFFÈ PLATTI Torinese chocolate. www.platti.it 20 different cakes a day, including If you visit just one of Turin’s historic locales, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 72. cheesecake, tarts filled with custard and fresh then it has to be the illustrious, belle epoque T: 011 4546151. fruit, Renetta apple caked and ricotta and Caffè Platti. Opened in 1870, it soon became pear tarts. The venue is infused with a warm, a social and cultural reference point for GHIGO homely Provence-style atmosphere where, 20th century Turin. Here, amidst mirrors, This historic pastry shop, located just steps amidst cast iron teapots, French tin boxes, gilded stuccoes, inlaid walnut furniture and from the Mole, is famous for its hot chocolate, brightly-coloured cups and vintage trays, gold Louis XVI medallions, you can sample served with freshly whipped cream and you can purchase traditional Savoy biscuits, Piedmontese specialties like ‘bunet’, Meliga marrons glacés (a candied chestnut covered flower-based preserves, Leone candies and pastries, ‘bignole’ and Platti cake. with a sugar glaze). At Christmas, Ghigo fruit preserved in honey. Vegan options are Since 2017, the confectionery has been run by excels itself with its famous ‘Nuvola di Ghigo’, also available. berlicabarbis.com renowned patissier Guido Gobino, the king of a traditional ‘Pandoro’ covered with a butter Corso Moncalieri, 214. T: 011 2074508. icing and a generous sprinkling of icing sugar. Via Catania, 10. T:011 231032 www.pasticceriaghigo.it Via Po, 52/b. T: 011 887017. FARMACIA DEL CAMBIO A sophisticated Savoy-style ‘salotto’, PASTICCERIA VENIER created in the rooms of an old apothecary Pasticceria Venier, located in the heart of the established in 1883, in the city’s beautiful centre, is another go-to destination to start (or piazza Carignano. Here, you’ll find a fabulous SINCE 1936, WHERE® B AGA R O N end) your day on a sweet note. It’s famous for assortment of pastries by chef Fabrizio Galla AVAILABLE IN MILAN, CAM P A L T O WHERE M ILAN PRO IS ENDO JECT HAS HELPED RSED BY M its ‘marocchino’ (coffee served in a small glass M E STR E ILAN CIT including Veneziane, Sfogliatine, almond and Y GUIDE cup, with a dark chocolate base, topped with VENICE, FLORENCE ISOLA CARBONERA ® JU LEADING HOTELS 2018 orange cakes, bignès, ‘bonet’, fruit tartlets,

MILA N.WHE REITAL foamed milk and a sprinkling of bitter cocoa millefeuille, hazelnut cakes and croissants. IA.COM ACROSS THE WORLD AND FROM OCTOBER powder), but also its ‘briosche’, including its Also worth mention are the locale’s savoury Ev ery place in the f ashion ca DELIVER VALUABLE carries a pital custard-filled ‘torciglione’ with a hint of lemon, ALSO IN TURIN! s designe offerings which include sandwiches, savoury ignature r VENICE CITY GUIDE ® Parco San Giuliano ISOLA DI TESSERA and its Umbertino, a biscuit resembling a FLORENCE CITY GUIDE TURIN CITY GUIDE MILAN T snacks, crusty bread, bagels and more. A ® HROU INFORMATION ® LENS GH ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE Out tips for t cit p he best ortraits JU 2018 ENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM ‘bacio di dama’ but with, a double layer of N EW O ee PENIN A great place for lunch or an aperitivo. p up-to- GS d with t ate he latest luxur o penings TO THEIR GUESTS. JU 2018 FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM chocolate and two amaretti instead 2018 TURIN.WHEREITALIA.COM farmaciadelcambio.it. OUR FIRST ISSUE IN THE CITY Farmacia del Cambio SIGHTS The worlds preier nae EEI Welcome to NG | MU S in travel publishing EUMS | SHOPPI of shortcake. arrives in Turin NG | DIN ING Welcome | ENTE Piazza Carignano, 2. RTAINM the Art City ENT | M ALL THE ALLURE istory APS to OF PIEDMONT architectre Turin Several out-of-town Via Monte di Pietà, 22. T: 011 541592. destinations for a fun, and eaties relaxing experience ISOLA CAMPALTO Way T: 011 19211250. of enaissance we ST RAD A C RELIABLE, ACCURATE OLO R ATA C A L L E A N G E L O O Z A N T I O L N E V A N S O A EPLORING Cimitero Nuovo C C A L C WA ere T eggy A ggenheim L A E L L R E L C A M P O D C E O E L O L D V E I O . ES O RT N D E L E C A S E L M IA O C A G I AR L G M A IAN A N E A G I A O LE I THE SOUTHEAL RN D NOV E L C A C P L G I L I R I L A IN T VEN D O S T O C E PAOL LE V A AL R seenty years later C C R

A A E ' D L L O F L L L

C O E Z LAGOON A N A L E D S AM L C N A E L E N L E E N D R

N TA D L DO F I E OR C C E A O C A M P I E L L O R L V Each of the saller iO slands L L N L A IS C A L Santa Maria degli Angeli T D L S

I S A N G I U S E P P E O O A A F M M N O ’ A E N T I A TA R T S E L I S E P O C N E P ’ F B E P A S R A O IU E A R S G R O N N B M E D T A has a histor and a calling T S M A E M I A LE N O E N L S I TA N CA A E E C A R S L L A O D E B N R R L N U S O S S A O T R A F A E N N T Z ’ I R O IE V O R M U R A N O A C A M P O ALL THE ALLURE B Chiesa dei Santi E L L A O S A N B E R N A R D O C T Maria e Donato GUIDES AND MAPS. IS R F C O L E N D E L O OF THE REGION D L A ITALIAN-STYLE R C A M P O A C T M S I S A N D O N AT O E N M Several out-of-town T L N A A A I

D N I GIFT GUIDE V I T IN E O S R L U A N I IV E G destinations for a fun, V I . E G A O E R N C Our pick of the best L A L R A A C E M L A relaxing experience L T F A O N N E S A C C A C D seasonal trends A M M A E N D these options, there are places, like Gusto Madre, based batter, without eggs or milk, these mouth- that you can go wrong because they’re all supplied T A N O D O N A A L E F P O R TO M A R GHER A R U L L U M A M Ponte Lungo A A M D D U IO O L IZ M A IR A A N T ON S E R E N E L L A U A T I Q R E N O E M LL F O N D A A C C F O

I A

ALL THE ALLURE O A

C R

A N T

L Chiesa di San Pietro Martire E

I E

L V

E I E T

D D A

OF TUSCANY E A

T A T

R N N

I E O

T M

O G OLO A FOSC U O D Several out-of-town L G E U N LL T

A N I C C

. I

T O O L O

A F

A R R

G C T A B A L M I D C L A E I E L A destinations for a fun, L that will remove any doubt. Ingredients bestowed watering waffles are deliciously light and topped by historic Torinese bakery Andrea Bertino. Open C L Z A A E P M E N S R I C C P D E Ë D U IE E G D L T A R L L T O N O L I I E H L D A L E E A L L P N C L E I A S O relaxing experience P C N SIGHTSEEING | MUR SEUMS | SEHOPN PING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS S H A C I C A M P I E L L O H E A O M E R N N C V O A R IA IA L IA A P. B I G A G L I A R L O P B E I M I C E B R E N T R G A T A S O O E L L T I N L N IN N L I A I A C E C C A A M L S L L A E L E D A D E B L R T F N L’ E O N O O L S I F O I S E N A T G O M D I I O D A I M N A O I A C E F

M A N R L L LI L L O T E A E T Faro di Murano R M C N E I O B VE T

T E L I I L A A E C D by Mother Nature, processed to a minimum and with either sweet or savoury ingredients while you Mon-Fri 12 noon-3pm/7pm-10pm; Sat 12 noon- S A E T

R N

E E

N M A

V time-honoured dough-making techniques, are batter is mixed with cooked bacon and served bis. T: 333 7446737. Map F7 I Chiesa di San Michele in Isola A L E

D E A N D A I E N S O S T L O O N Parco R L A A A C Monastero L "Villa Groggia" A E G Ospedale Fatebenefratelli D Carmelitane Scalze R L E A AMO L L San Raffaele Arcangelo AN GIR OL L I ACCA S E E MENTA S A ONDA V L B F E C L V A O UO E Rio di Sant C U N

N C E V E NEZI A R A L S LE E S A CAMPO T LA RG A C 'Alvise A C SANT'ALVISE A E P I L EN Sant'Alvise L IT E ’ E E NT L I L D CAMPIELLO A F O CA T O Ri C ND o L PIAVE N . the reasons for the success of this healthy, easy- with rocket leaves and Philadelphia cream cheese. A A del E C L E AR T L LO la Se I M E CO P A LE D TT nsa A E D Santa Maria delle Penitenti I C L N F L

O O 7 F F E R F O F O 1 N O N D E POINTS OF INTEREST N N D _ E D A V D A M E E A R M N A V M E N TA F L I E T O L P N A D N O S E D A A T A N L E F G A O N C A M C N Madonna dell'Orto C G E N D R I R P A • T M T O R C1E L L O 5Museo Di Torcello A O U A A Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Z E Chiesa di Santa Fosca N L P Z N 100 m INA L AEROPORTO OS A R A S DA DEL I A N M N T STR O E E N A . AR S MA TORCELLO A A D C E ON G N M IO F O A DE MARCO POLO N V D L ISO L A A L D E I L A G H I M 'OR E N TO W FO San Girolamo ISO L A ERINA NDAME T CAT NTA D NTA I S D1I SA ANTA C 6 A ENTA ATER 1 M A Z Z O R B E T T FONDAM INA B

F O F N O I N VIA EI SQUERD D D S AMENTA A A ND A E N FO M M M O R AR E R A CO N E M T N E A T O T V E I I A A C A P F S M P I E CAR O O T O C R PAR N N O O IO T N D LI I L L A T C R N A E L I D I E E E N M D L E C U E C.ALZEVERD E A A R Q L L N D D A S O L T A A R M EI S O A T I R D T D N S C T I E E I SI A I S S I L O A E T T F I L R R V L A DO TO CA A I RND BOCALET IO AMC. T AFONDAMENTA SA A SEN IEC N MAURO INISTA MOO TR CA ELA CAO INI TE TI AO VANA DI E MOT LET DI A AT L B L I R

N CEN L E E N E I L T I I I M A V A O R DA CE S RN M A Z Z E O R B O TAD D A IA O A T ON E M F A O ENF L E B D C R L L E E R A R L M A L S A E DA C A L AL T IT N C D C T N IM FO R A C A A

S S

L L B A G A R O N I L A

S N D E D A IG A A R V T FO LA N AD N R E R D E DE M T A IA C A S ME G V AL D N A I LE N TA L NT GOB O U A B F ODE PIAI SZZAI E MALE LA PI BAIVA DELDASSARRE A O CAL PESCH GARLUPPI Street Fish ER IA S ANRIO TE MICH E L E RÀ DChiesa di San Martino FONDAM EL PIZ St. Mark’s Basilica Chiesa di Santa Caterina ENTA DE ZO C Rio d B U R A N O L PIZO C F C A M P A L T O 100 m BURANO E CAMPIELLO O M E S T R E B N e D ISOLA CARBONERA The most important Catholic church in the city an d one of the most l A E DEL SCARLATTO la M L F M PonteO dei Tre Archi EN E N a T prestigious monuments in Italy. The original church dates back DED D F d A A O on S AN FR ANCESCO CANNN A R EGI O C DEL D E SE RTO E M D CAMPO Venice Map O Codnevenl Detos dertoi San Francesco L E A M F n N L N CAMPO E N ON DEI MORI a d T to before the year 1,000, while its famous polychrome façade is T D AR ISOLA DI TESSERA A A TA A Parco San Giuliano C F M I M e S O DI GHETTO NUOVO E IN ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE A N S E N ll' I N D R TA Orto to-digest, multi-award winning pizza. Open from A E O I C D Open Mon-Sat 11.30am-7.30pm. €. a 13th-century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and M T T O E G E I R A I I N T T D T S M 14 T R E P O R T I OB T E I A O Canale dA R O R A B H IO I I C E R A transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and other treasures. E A V G E I MURANO R N H NA A , E N C H ISOLA CAMPALTO E I Rio della Miserico S CAMPIELLO R G TRADA COLORAT R O A CALE AN C GE O C LO T L ZANIOL EN NV SA EG T CO CA CimiterATo Nuovo EL CAL LA OR O D LE C EL V COL N CAMLE POELIO .D R IA ARIA ORTES A IA DE LAL E C MAGSE G R LE GIANM AD G C PI NO L I E i Cannar L CA R I NOVE L A E E LO VENII ST T O C AD E PAO C R V L L A R C CA A D L ' E L L O E C L L F A O L Z E S A C N L N A D L C N E L AM E E D E D N N R R L E O T I C D A L E A F O O C O Chiesa S. Erasmo A R C L V CAML PIELLO I L L N S I A O Santa Maria deL gli Angeli T T M D O ’ S A A Museo Ebraico I A I N T L FO T A M SAN GIUSEPPE R E C S ENTA S N O R A’ F EB PE E www.basilicasanmarco.it IB PA O ER O AS GIUSEP O RME T NDA TIA SAN AM A E NS RIO MENT N ALE V D DE LA LAVANDER R E CAL A SA O C C L N N A E BR L S US O O TA M U R A N O SA RE AN F E ’ NZ TI AROVIER O C A V A L L I N O T R E P O R T I CALE B ISTO SCAANM BPEOCRMahNiAreisaRa De d ODeoi naSatonti E E L FON EL CR D LE D O A CAL RT CAMPO M IS E M SAN DONATO C N E L T T A N T V A D IA O N V O I NI E L T M RI N E IUS E A VIA I G G L A. E N O E R A L LE RC D AL E A C L L M IA F A TA V , P O R T O M A R G H E R A SACCA NDAMEON C DAMEN S À E MURANO MULATA DELA Ponte LungFONo L SERENELLA RIZIO DA AMO DA MULA A ANTONIO QUI R MENT C L LE FONDA F CA O O L I N L

E D

I A

F O A

C R M N

E A T E

L Chiesa di San PietrI o E Martire V S A N T ’ E R A S M O

A L N E I

E T

D D A

L I

E A T T A R N N I O E T

egio M T

E O A O T G R U T D O A L N

LO T SCO N M I CO FO E

G T I LE U. O L O L CAL O F A E R A D R G B A T A C M I V T I A D L I EL CA LE A C A ’ S A V I O T L E S N PR CALE ZA D E Ë CI MPIE DE NET G L EONARDU LOLA TI I H E L D P N I CAL ELA PESC N N O N RA ESH I A OM CHER N CAMPIEV LLO ANO CA ERIAIA A O IPRI B LE M P. BIGAIGLIA C ER B G AN TO ERT A C E S L OL T N E L INI INI EN A CA C C S San Giobbe A A MAL L A LE LE A D D T T F EL B N R N R O O L’O ES D N F LI S E OI A D D T A IO G M A I M O NDA M NI RA CA LE FO E OLI T L AL I N ERT E E MI C Faro di Murano S T B V OT A LE EI I A S C D E A R NT A E F E N M E A E L D L N C O A A FO E F M 2 r ISOLA SAN GIORGIO 9 S dia C M E À LL N SUTA I R A T VIA FA R R L VI A Chiesa di San Michele in Isola A E EL E C D DA ANE L A EL TON SI L ParcoRO NO A Mona"Vsitellar LA oGA CAroggia" R L CarmelitanE DE e ARGScaOlzsepedale Fatebenefratelli L L San Raffaele Arcangelo I MOE L E B NTA SACA SAN GIROLAE V A L E E V FONDAM O C L O A E E U NU Rio C E N E d C R C E S i AL S A San T E A C CAMPO LA t'A A R C E lv GA I L is SANT'ALVISE L e P E Sant'Alvise P ’ ENIT L E N E L D NT A I CA TA LO CAMPIELLO C N FON Rio E PIAVE A E D.A d L M CARL ela PIT E A O D DE D COLET Sens CA Santa MarLiaN delleTI Penitentia E FOFO EL FO RN FOFON D VE NDAM ER NDAMEDAMENT LLE PIA L ENTA NTA SANA DE LE FONDAMCA FON RG Madonna dell'Orto T O C G C A E D A A IR P N AM L Palazzo Ducale and the Bridge of Sighs NAR OLAMOUZINE TA SENSA ENTA ADC. L EGIO FONDAMENTA San Girolamo MONA DELORTO' S A N M I CHE L E A L CARIE BATELO R EC io FO E V E LE BDCEALM SPFOCAIoEnLRteLOL AdTeTi TOre Archi dela MNDAME C LE D NDAM C A NFONDN A R E GCIAOMadonNTAP COO CAL ENTA CAMPAMEONTA FONDAMDEI Mna deNTARORI SAN FONDAM ITE TODI GHETT MISERICO NUOEANTAV DEO l'OrtINI IA GIOBCaENTA C ERT HETIO ORDIA ROS I MORI ol n A V G , A R L ER EaleN N CH I A HI R dAR O LEC T Rio G C CAMEPIELLO i CEG C LE T d R C E V MuseEo EbraicoA N C a IO A e L E DE LA LAVANDnER E C ll L A na L S I, a M E V L re AL R T is L E NA F E gi C A T e A T E ON San Gioobbe F r S E D SE icor C OR MA DAM L À dia C A E L R R N A LERIC E FA E L TE C ERA T D LE P L À a LE NO CA L O N i L V F E I R F A A E N Palazzo Nani E L MI FO M R T OND REVIS ord C O A CA NDAM ASE RIO AMENALE T AZIAric NA E N B I DEL LO NTA S A C Rio dFO TA MISC DE L’Aise ATER LE IE AVO ALE DEL P e ServN.DAN ER AbaPOz MiaTA C INI CAL E AL E R RGN ISTOR i IELE C ICO CAMla AN AR LE CATENE C L AN O ANAL CAMRdDPelIElaL MelLOisA SericSCordia CA ERÀ S. LEONARD SAFNIA MARdZINAG LE FO I O RIOTCAMPO NARIO T ON le LU Chiesa dei Gesuiti A NUOVA IS OLA SAN LEONBI EARÀ DRDOF DA DIAa LE LE Palazzo Nani LOM E LA ON ME ORn CAL A CAMPO Palazzo Labia C O MAD DAM NTA RICa C SAFFAROAPaSrcoalone del TiepolLEo ALENA EN TR MISEC FOND oli DEL TRONCHETTO SSavorgnanSaN, n LeonaCArdo TA AP . AME t N E RI D O ND NTA s IS P E R E L O S o U DIIO C IN F TA AN p LE CAMPOE Q ETRO LATERÀ La MaddAa' lena HE TA CAT A I I CACA SAN GELAL REM CIHIESA VEN RAC ERINA CAMti PO S L C SantaD Fosc a O L C R A F DEIn GESUITI dia San MarcuA ola A O L E L N a A L S M DA D L T I E E M S N E N D E E CAMPIELLO R C N T I E TA V C L A CAMPOR A L L ZE i N C A A A N DEL REMER A D E L N e E ’ C San Geremia G F F Z A D L G A A O T A I N A L N M SAN MAH RCUOLA d E L A N C D E L E . I OL E I A S. G E F A P S P T N AN Casino L O T E T S DR A S E o M A R N R R O O A C i G R I A A L D F L O A I V V T LE L A V E UP I M N C D di VenE eziaA N VOR DE L O C L E D E E T I S.Marcuola I I D N C B H A R TA M E I O T Formerly the residence of government centre of the Doges, Palazzo People MEover Venezia H L N T E I S O L A D E L L E T R E S S E D e A C E E I S d I I A R T C I I O C D CAMPFOND DLE L L O RI N T A A L an AL N Z . SAR E V L A D O OC V À r Museo LE O e TORI ENI A C R V G LE EZRBE E C E ALE TER anal Civico DEL A SF IULI FO POolc R DCEAI C O MLAP OCARITA’ L E V I G N O L E

M T C A TUA R ND O D E

TI IO Z P NO AM D ’ D CA R Z Di Storia E R EN a E L SIO A L O TA A C CORTEL LADEE BL

RivaIA dC e Biaso S.StaeSanA F eliPceG REMERL E

TO DI B Naturale CL RIUU o C A TE RL V E NEZ I A O À E E A C

T Santa MariaVA D L LI R i RIO LE D S EN E I R E E E R PaSlaazzOn oZan O E V R TERÀI L VO E DI T L L S

D TA E EG E L E BAR LTOL H N B

di NazarethE T T O H A L O A A I F R ParchegCgio Bus Turistici DAM DeON goGla AGT C E T RUATR AMO DEL CCORTE DEL N Gidoni S

O O E D R IO MORA F I F R N ZI CAA MP M O E O O POZETO

O AL R IT EL EL L T P L DE ORO C SALN ZAN DEGOLA’ A O R S A D .D A S O CAMA PIRELLO I I I L T EI S LE CALSan StaeC C P T ON DE TELA UEMADOFONNA L N L A D A LE L T S Q N Ca' Pesaro A N T C OTRO S E A E S D E N N T I SCA’MPIELLLO A D EPonte N E RSantaD DSo fiaNT CAL M PIELLOM M CAMPO À L Stazione dAi Venezia SantaRIO T LuciaR A Galleria InADternaRziAonVaAleALMCADRCEALN PEAESTRIN A ND I ERA’ DE FO ST A VE D R C.S AL D EN V FOdegliS SAcNal AzSRiIMON L’IS O N R COLE RTE San LTazzaro O R E I BC LA L N d'Arte MoOdernaA BAV TAGEIA A O E A O E Z T RI L T

IA TA A A D S Ca’D ’ DVA’OLro I SCO CLOtiRN TE N R GRASNL DO L O A N I A dei Mendicanti N C C L G E A ’ A I DI n O A A L C L D I CACMCOPRICETLELSOE A UFerrAovia L A F C R N a I V L L L E CALE CAZA AR . DA A C SO S B A STELLc DA E L EC IZ C . E i N E RA L L L C TA L COE RTE NOVA A O O MO A d A DE E T A a AN IO C C M P U N T A S A B B I O N I E n IS T L R LA VIDAL N S E CAL A S SG anti ApALostoli e I N U San S imeoLne TO U LE D OS n PO E LE CAMPDIEELLO A NG E CALE CA R R EI R a AM AR MO M SSanC SimeoC n T SAVIO G TIO EL l C CAMRPIWELIDLCOAMLi TANN A T A A P. rofeta I Z D GCà d'ONro DELLETA CAASGABLEOe NN CO PO TA PicLEcolo LA I INAT E LE I LE L r AN TI ST RIELI DME T O EITI EN LO NU RG RUGA San GiARMacA DoCTmoIOORZZCATEIANIE DaEnL C S.Canci TEanioODAospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo T O O A VEC T CAMPIELLRON A MRCA TE AM ICC. VA D CHIA dall'OA CriENo A CAMP deChiesa EvSanANgMANe CliDcaRAICALN LA CFOIANO T E D OE D ZIONE DE NDFeN PrRAGroSvANia I B CAMPOCAL LIZA DAM EGIN DEL Luterana LE WID LE SCUOLE DE AM IRE N O O H A LE A NSanta R MaLE ria CA E O D People MoLver Venezia F IMCET SIMPalFONazRI NzoARZUACGRAIDOE MEZ BSPEOFLA LA CAL CAMPAL O M A S AO EO DA SAURO O Mate DEr Domini S.MARC IA NOVA I L N L V NSorManzo SAN GIACOLEMO CAMPO DELNLA CA IBE A SA E DEECH E ENTA DCALL’ORCIOACALMPSOanERI CasPEsiSaCnoARI SANL CANZIAO LE LARGA G. Santa Maria del Pianto T Cap ello A Palazzo GrionT i DA N GA O R I IO G L SANTA MARIAS IZA R LI L N B GiardAino di PLalazzo O O SA O NA L E FR E MATER BDOMITNI RSanta Maria E TÀ P.le RomaM ER ONZ DCAMPO CAMI POO OP L FIO T Ferrovia O EL E B OR E D S A G SoraDnTzo Capp ello L A T E Basilica deiA D A AT TO TISAN BOLDSOAN D CAAMSL SPEGAON DE LA D I dei Miracoli C A E M L M C N O E N N M I AA C E E I A E ZLE T D D L IR E ORS E . L Z T N ET HO E L A N a O N N C S L I r F A A T .VE TI OR AN C A BELECN A LERISEan GAiovCanni Santi GiovanniS e Paolo S C A O C O C U C A E B CC L C L F CAL I e C L O A L D A L LE C E z AL E O A. B I D G D L ’ D CAMPO E CAMPO S L L L L U H E E A D BOE CE O CC BR FO Grisostomo A n I T C O N D A A C I RNO P R L Z CECSAROE BATTISTI L E VE A C T A P e A CH I U LE’ N H AL O M L N O E NCC T DU ’A GIEÀ M E CA SANTI GIOVAA NNI L S E L A C L L DO IN. T O ST A C A D L I E m A N I A A E L S C L S E E T I T L A DELLA E PonteE O L B D I T S S T o C E C O ’A E OT E T E L A E L O E PAOLO T FI O V T GD A T BELLA VTIEeNaNtroA Malibran A L ON Z E L H O N A DT S N A c S S E A A O R A I I LO M M U ’ L I I RE M CAMPO C E N A LT C C C N I O N R C E A TA S F R R A AL H L O della Co stituzione N NC LE N E S C E C N M A M C G D D S A E E L I L L E O S E. A SAN GIACOME LT OC A A N R E O I A A L E . R Chiesa dell’OspedalettoU A A T D M S R BE L A L O e C A V E C V . N N D A S D E U M C C ’ R V cor G E E A G T U OL A L IO . L I D G O N O A E L S S E CAMPO A . D L E E E D F T L RSL N EM L GPA S E I C CORTE SECONDA E A L E R O T D R L C LP A A L C D F L O AD A I N F I A E D A R R S C L San Giacomo E O E FR S C NRE DEL MILIOC N E E O A SANTC’AGIOSTINOL E A A E C C D L OCARAMPA AI NE D E T L B E e L E E N E L D l O S O V L I I O L T T S L N A V N E COERTE DEL L E R O G E . P E R L R L Z T D A a M D R À N I E I L E B A R L O AR C D O A E A BA A L R A D I H NdS i Rialto L L IA C E n C L E TEAETRO C I DE C Casa di MarcoL PoloL C A L A L A A E TO CAMPO R L E C C LEO C M a L S A M . C C I E C Z A L E AL C R A O O C A D C LE DSANALTA A N V Z E L M S A ' R E C L C E O E C T Z O A AF S A A E A S T O E GiaTrdino E M L A TIEGIUMSN TINA SE Sant'AndreaN Z G L R F C L CAMPIELLO ’ R N P A R RA AO E I A A LCAMPO U N San FGrNancesco Z AC R S T À N E N D U E U E I E DETTO DE M E L T CAMPIELLO S AD E S O LL E O R D T CO DOO ST L A D I A ALBRIZZI RIALTO I A C E A M N Fontego M E O R C Papadopoli E I BARBARIA RE

N CA C Z A L E C LE P DE LA LA DEEL STONLUOVO L E P C T I A F A

O A L della Vigna S O T ' L C ON T A L E A D L A S L CA D L A E L A A L N C E L M

L dei Tedeschi Z O i A L O P D P L A N C E

E C A N E L E L T R C C L A A A N L C

E E O E A D L O E

D A D AS E N D E E A D L O A L C L Z E AV L E E D LA NU E

N R E C S C L O A L O A C I C A C V P L . L E E E E C O O L

Sant. ’ADponal D L CAMPO LE

M D E O L C E S Ducale is a masterpiece of Gothic art, superbly decorated by artists P C I L D E D A O E

A M S A N P O L O AD N F C T I AI C. ET L ONT .MEL O L L IA L M D E Q L C O A H E A P L SANCTAMPIELLO DELLA DEI LEE A GI S U GO RIO E D A

E CAMPO U TINM E

C Z S A N T A C R O C E L L L G L L G T Ponte B CA A A R U E ENGO D E P GIUSCTOINANFRATERNITA

C A A E I F R C O D E L S P

N O Z SAN STIN L AL . A I L P L NF A R N I O S A R O O OI E N Z A E G L L GN R D I L E C F

I CAMPO di RLialto CORA TI E

A E N Z N OD R O CAMPO CAMPO A Z A I A V IZ Z CMORTEVA M RI D I Z O T A R C TCREVINMESAN L D E O H A E N IA R E D CAMPDOEEL NO E N San NicolaIO SAN APONAL A I I A T DELLA CELESTIA SAN BORTOLOMION L C C L P R D L A M T P M E E T T DEL VPORLETSOTRIN R O I R D IO E L ERA M E People Mover VenL ezia À S E V E A E A X D A A O L PIAZZALEN ROMA L CAMPO N A S ’ N I R U L T O L C da TRoIlNe LntinoTO A E NL L D A T E O A M CAMPCO O E A N S M A D M O À AOI T A C L O I C RiaAlto SA NL VR LOIO I EIS A L N R A B A O M O EL S L C D L T I CAMR PIL ELLO CORTARE C CAMPIELLO M DE E . O T IM SAN POLOSan Silvestro UD B DC LA A E VA E E E CAMPO O E S . DR SANITA MARIA D I N N N R ORIC S L B L AL CEF R D DEL ML ORION DEI D S I I DE I IZ A AL O FORMO. SA San LIZorenzo O I E . A E N L E ADLLP DA E U T O S C F E C R A Z ANT R L CORTE C A D R F A L L PC S EL FONDAMENTA GIUS A SAN SILVESTRO A À D ANA R TINA O E MELONI . E S C L D D L E A E L L A O B . L IOC D N R L A G . DEI PRETI TRONCHETTO T R I L CAMPO V ' I A Z DE LA C A E A C L E E N R B AC IA N A I D L Z L E Z R D A O CAMPO R E A i L L L SANTA TERNITA O E E C L o I ALE LARGA S LOR VIDA A A E A NEZO R T A O Fon tego Santa Maria I L L M L L R C A A I R Z M F d C A San RBaocsciloica E F R E . S O L G E A Z I B e C R C ChiesaD RettO oriale G A A A N SAN LOREO NZO T A l D R MRCGORSTaEn DtaLI E MaL ria e O DolfiAn Manin Z C C E N ZE A ForPmaloas SazAN LORzo I L NZO R A O A BORGOLCOE T M Palazzo RaZM vTa L C L dei Frari L INSACBAIOMNPDOCORTE I A S F E di S. PE olo I I A H F u I O R T O i n I M E della S DFaEvLa MONDO R N CAMPO P CORTE NOVA o D N CAMPOIELLOCDE LA FAVA I e D. D A GrimanN i A T A RialtCoO RELTE F S GIO M O M C NUOVO O T i ’ A I g R D C . AL N D DE L DE LA PASINACE O o E A I A N H E O A MC L A T E C A N h T A N CORE SACAL AL R C L R C C AC I T T (PalaSAzzoN CSaAvLaVlAliID) OR M A e DEI FRARI N I B L ZA o della ConsolMazion e A Although this might seem strange in a city like i O O O D Z C M TA o E RI I t A E S A L R M A O S N A A A N D e A ZO L RIC E eINO B V N S COROTCAENDE E M N D L E a O B l E O AL T S BA E T A D A R T V CONRT E E N A E O F u M M L A TA EL D N A E T DR ’A E CALS D n A T ENT agO CAMPO S.SilveBstELro ORUBTB OILE D LE TA S E N LORENZO E D A N C O L A M LICNINAI L R o D O a C A S R DA z A T CPAalMCaPzIzEoLLN O L A N O TeatEro S A A L E FO A e SAN ROCCO L S San GiSovanni n L O v L S C L LE S QUERRI N I G I A C A C L U U S O o A NO C A S T E L L O L L I C A A M STAMG PAE LIR A G o E O L T IZ E Querini r A A P A S L C L A V E E R N D San ESalvaLdor E e . DA N E CCaC rloR GoMAl DdonIABIi A C G R N di Malta M e N A i E C A Z E S A R L L S I O n L E C A AN SA BA LI Palazzo L LCORo TEZAR D MEELUA S UF O ALCA v C N P L L E S I Z Z B E StamF paliaz CL C A E A O E O A DO NE LECORTAE CORTLEE o N L I IP CD TR a TEE R o A a ZIO RI IAC TALON CAL E DE TAL Querinei-PDauCALlabCALzzoiORNEL CATsoEEL TEAATn SaRB ALOL CAPITE NA SCAL IAFRUCTOARITOELI DELLED E L’A GA NuTE La Biennale di Venezia ’ R m RE EI PENSIE S B AL STRE and LE G LE C ER PRBOALE DAC lvad DE LECLOORSICI TE NCUOAOROZIVTAE DCALE LIOENL CALE DEI FURLANI CANMZOL PIEta LLO ti DI TERÀ D LE CAL C LE SACANM TPOMÀ Gr GriRIMAmAVLaISCOPnNCi AN LUCALE or ALE C.DEL T RLUCATELOPMONTMEIDION PORONSALIZAD ZZOETI CROAMVEPROSIOECLDLUOE POen ZZI Arsenale dEi dVuenecatziiona al Arsenale RIO F A E DEI P CA al NI LI IA E S DE CCAGIA MAR L RE CO LE DEI PR DE LA AL m O C C RE L I .DP Z E A CA E i N ALE B TI an CAL FA E L IERAC. DARISan GiuLED lianoEL FRATERN DAC da r D ASEGO C SCAan TomàC B BAL EI P SA CAL C. D EG AL n T A A L NR O GI N L L L ZEI TE NO Z I E o a L E A LU A Z S M E AG I LI I LE DEL MAGEN C D C D San SBeann Letouca M AN CORSTanET GO iovanni CALNovo U EL F E R EL DEL C S D D La Biennale di Venezia San Pantalon CAM PIELLO E R C A B N i O T LEC R I IN e o L A LDEL FOR RA NO TA S DELALA A CAMPO d R C L L N I RS l E Sant'Angelo C I l T ei R A L L E N AR A M I M C T T CHIESA A L SAN ZUANE Giardino delle Vergini A E ol A G E O ’OS MI e CORTDE L E O e E S Teatro alle Tese O E S H E n R E D R N N t NOVO A i E Palazzo M L A A n Palazzo I T F A C O i CAMPO E N d R S S S E G U T G M GRAGOLINA A N D L A D S CORTE A I A A L D N A G A T P P L M O FO I O I U I A N Z E O C V R E NC E ZA RC I e IZ A N D C O . DA ’A C e T SAN BENEDTL EOL Z P L R Z A CAMPO A O O D S E A T S l

R D A H IA A E I D R N D A IO Giustinian L T NT A P T R Nervi R R E NE I N Z A I FORNO I E O TL N L R CALE DEL FIGHR OL a O E E E O R U A I O N L A n M O SAN PANTALON E E N IA A R San GiorNIgiCo I i A P D V N L O G O LI C o N CAMS VPEOCCHIO I N S D O n D O . A E O M d I I C F I R E U AG E R C L SESTIERE e R R A C a Persico L N ScF attolin M I G L R le C A C o Z A N . L AN PalazzT o FortuI ny C S O E R A E dei Greci L A MAN. IN NE ’ G C V E E Z O R C e

i E N A L Z L A AT Z ELCOL L rg A D E

D DI SAN MARCO R A LA CERTOSA E L E L P D D L A I T L CAMPO i E E A C R O A I LL E n A T E À E C N C A z RA L S. Toma' SX. RA D TR L ANO i E O S N U A SE C L D C R L T O A C G OC E C L SAN I L B A O E E PR A R E O L L LEIO G D A L L CA E ER LE L O E I A A C T L A L LL E D C R a EN C I T T L A . O PROVOLO E A

E S M C R COR TE DDOELCL’AO LBCEORO NI NAT S A A T R O E IG

D L R C M L A N LC L L P

t N L A À A L A F TR O E M A O E N Arsenale di Venezia

S L O o F CAL R G V M INI O A EI B A D SI I T E E Palazzo V E GL O E a N D D L N CO N H I S . PIAZi ZETTA E O L L E

NTA S A AA N C O A P

R I I o IZ D L ER N E CAMPO I E I E A NA C CS A S A S m M S R D A S r Palazzo Balbi N S DEI LEON CINI S T E

Ri A A S A D A E D S Basilica di San Pietro di Caste

C T N E C E llo T À A

T L CORTE M L C E . E A LE L a

O ND O R L D C TER I SAN L F A . I A A l O Mocenigo E F N Z O R Z E L A O L E ER RAM A C F D T C F O O PRIMO DE LA

A O PERGO e A A LA O TORRETTA N

L C I e R O E R

C I N N E R R B o E B LORENZO

T A D T L O L B r CAMPOD R T L A o CAMPO l L

T I A C P L A A R L E

z R A E A A C E D C S A N E A R V M I P A e A L L C P M L N P C E R L L I A LE I C L L L O E E S E SAN GALLO D E DE C T E C O

D I L D E E . C O LA A T E C E San Zac Icaria L L I I A R PBANDIEE RA E S

M D F L F S C N D A ETA L A A

n O a V ’ R R A E A G L O L N M D ’

E O T C n E L TA OL E D E V E G GA O CORTE L E A D N I A T i N D N A T D I E N A E

F R E L I l E S Maran tino R E N M D L T CL O L A A

N A B a D E L RL S L C A A R A L C A E MORO O n A A N L’ E E A C A L O O DELLE ANCORE I D E F L A R A E Basilica C

D S L C S

A E L z A Z e P L P c L A O L L S C S V A E E FO a I E R L . A C

E E C A N G . L z C D

A A IO L A L A O L

M C S AR M

L S C S T A E

L L L P N U A C U E o A T E E R L FONDAMENTA ’ T F O I ser a L E E A . di San Marco A

V L EL T O A CAMPO DI L C D A S D R S

EM R D E T S S E N R E E m A E E e A C I L L O Santa Maria V N

E M U N E M A O A

T C L C E A C O LE U E D F M DEI d

C C L L D N

A I OH A D I B O SACANTMAPIELLORI S E E A N E L o CAMPO A SL an Giovanni Battista L A

TE . L V E Bacino L

C E D N O

RI R L S E o RC E E E A L V dellC a Pietà ARSENALOTTI E T H i L D G L D CAL Z A R o Z F I E O

A ONT DE LDAEI E DCS A N EMOAI R C O O N SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

c F a R T I A E C E S MARGHERITA O IE C TO R D N La Biennale di VenF ezia - Arsenale LE IZ S R IA OrseolRo L in IABEALragora S E L L MCA VIDASQUELINI L R CAMPAO ER A R L O C A A Z M A OE A Z A . S N F n I E S N C S E BD FR N C M R C E E A G O V N R D S A D . OLE A O S E R O I D N O I SANT’ANZCIOLRO C L . T C O B A A P S a E E San FISantin L L A ZE DEO P L C Z E IN R GIO A ZI HT E E A T ’O T E Z I D A I e L O D N E L O EG A Palazzo Ducale L F E D CAMPO D Palazzo E O O L T R G C L O l D ALE L ERNA R O LE H A L I IAV L E N ND C B L E I A L A LE l R D N L A P H L L C C A L M E E i E CA CA AU E C IESA S R L N E ENT like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The ‘Ponte dei Sospiri’ is a Baroque H L R A in E E C AO LA C LI IVA CA R S AR DEI R S G I L M T O S O i G I E D C O E U L m E O E DR C D E F NA E a r G GrDassCi E RT L G R LE U A R A A L L I a H C A VA I I G L TA ' A E RI SC A C N T CCAI RMINI L I E E L O L H R ’ L A A R IAl A D Santo Stefano L IAV D ’ A S A Museo A C C O V e E L n M N R E R T C I I A O D d V O A C L E F A B LC S A T E L L A MR T Z o r A N I L L E E E . A L N i A L T L A A TAR D R A A E CA IN a S E San CSamuele D C A D E d TA N N E N Ca' Raezzonico MOA RCorrer C E L P U R IIN G N E ’ E R A L C I I PAR V E Q M M L D A Teatro la FMOenicAe IDA A E A NT L D H D E AO A E N E T T RC O O D L O N F n E’ E A O L C N SantaP Maria RT C I M R L CAMPO S A L ALL O A S. Samuele C OI CO S N CA A AL R S A F Z A CAMP .IE MLLO C A S. Zaccaria (PEieMPta') LE O C D SA E O D L S I S d E CA D E A M dei CNCarmini Ca' RezzoSnAicNoTOD ESIT CEAFEL LACINEGNOHERINS M LA TN C I A Z O IS I N S. Zaccaria (Danieli) A A C S P O A A O A EZ e AR San MN oisè S ND RAMO DE A L AS Z San Barnaba E L TAN C. E San MauriTOzio C L FONDO AMENTAFO E TE N R RI R CAMPO F NDAM S N A EN I C L A TA RI A RD Palazzo Loredan L M O DE C C C L e S A A C LA N L TANA . R E DEI FORNI L O H C A A I E L LONG F GH L L IELO L SAN M OISE’ L O A AMP A CORTEA L C O T E C L O N V L O C DC E L C E S A R N M A E L A O L R ’ A C R Z E D R A O A L C P E N D E I O I N E I E MICHM IEL F C L E L FO R XI R L L VO A R LE E AX A D O N L C I D L OL A L I G T L A R EE L LAR R CH L A C E R S E L IC Z M A A O A A LE i I L I Santa Maria Arsenale T Z N S A L I O P B CAMPOC E E N A F L EG E E R o I D R D O AP N L S P E N N Museo Sto rico NaA vale di Venezia E E R I A N ZO L I S R E V E A D I N R SA C C T N R R I B L O R R A E N S U E TA AA D I O A A I A T E SANd MelA GUiRglIZioIO O San Francesco MA NC S C M T L T O C S N F A’ I E L C L ZA A a I A T I N D T I V H A A G L A E L OACC . LE C S O L ANGI L N R . S A L A N U E n D C CAMPO E N U P FO L I T C L

D G E di Paola E A E Angel o D I C L V C R S L A San Nicolò I SANS TA MARIA L CAMPO E E A A M I N A N G 'A E A M L NT C L T A L A S B E CAEMPO E R MENT E L F L ONDA DRIO IL R F T DEL G IGLIO I C L C RaffaeAle L U O T o D M A E San Vidal I E E N L A CORTE C dei MendicoliS N T R A A D L CIMITERO L I D L D A N T O D L E E T PISANI T A is F L L I E A P A E G I I B L BAROZZI A A E N RI R I B G D N e AC E P A H S. Marco (Vallaresso) A G C H ON E E A U Palazzo C L D V E P I G I E AE NUO CAMPO L P E L S T C L D C U C A AE A T A S L A C I E C I A L DE L’ANZOLO T G E E I G N R A L A O O I L CAMPO T Istituto Universitario V L E L C T 100 m orner O RAFAEL Ca' Giustinian L L N CAMPIELLO S D E L CAMPIELLO B C A E SAN SEBASTIAN L O ’ S L C A A F I L H SAN VIDAL CONTARINI E Di Architettura E O C E DO O R S ON D U R O dellaL I N T C A D C E P A G G C T N V E A e A I O E P O L A I I N D P T I V E O L Z O AZ ’ L G N S A C A L M A L L L I . A OA Ca’Granda I M R T A E R I E R A ED O T A A L I L S A P C E A C E E A O A T I L L San Sebastiano C A Accademia T L N T E S R O I E A T N E A A

R F N I O S F G I E ASIL Palazzo R ANB S A LE S E L C C CAL O I R Ponte P T A E SA B U O . P O N N L A IZ S S r A A CAMPO E S D E Pisani I R S A A N L S I I A T E INIZ N I G A B AZ E G DELLA CARITÀ D I AAM T dell'Accademia C CALEIEDTRO DSODURO BE N N O OR S M P AI O B NI O . N GIOA SAChiesa E di OgnA issanti L I CALE DE LA CHIE Gritti R P D S M O L N FON R Santa Maria O DAM E TA IV C E E N I E E L P N TA A del Giglio A C D N E N v E O T E Gallerie L G INC E GN N C I I IS D L R R A a C A L S T NTI E M nal Grande Salute A A L T M A M I E O CAMPO C R S A Abazia O A D AI CO dell'Accademia E T L D N PalazzoFO I S O E SAN LBESAGIO S B N O NDA E O F MENTA SAL E C U A T TE A R F CAMPO T E FO CA Genovese L L P T O T T ND L C EP . E D Collezione Peggy E D E L C D EL P DELLA O US I E IST I OR C I D C R i E OG .S M R G D NISAN San TrovasANTo'A GuggenheimSALUTE A A LTE EN SAN E T G Punta della Dogana L I I NE CAMPO DI R IEP E TA O L I S I T N E A F N E SAN VIO T SIE TE ME I C ON A CA IN CALE DEL BASTION I NT DA N N L R N DAME A E NANI R O CAL IR AO FOSan Giuseppe C FOD NTA B ENT CA R TIAN E DELA Basilica di AM ONLCAMMPOS IE SIN CHI San Gregorio R E INSAN TROO VAASOES F di Castello N I A N D A S. BasTA ilio D F VE EBGA O Santa Maria R N 100 m ZAT ON À A SA FOND. VENIER DAI LEON TE F R IN RR D RE R C IE B A della Salute L M I AL E SI ENTA CAMPEPOO C M T N V I S O P N E I NI VENEZIA O O N N A N I PNT IO TAE I ECUMEN O SA TO E B R CÀAT 'AN NAM T TER L SANÀ ITSEPO A IO R

R N on s O E A R E F A A D S T G N S L N S G M O I IO N O AO L S RDO E A F N R U D O L D I E A N O P D O R R E E E L A T T A L F L T Santa MaS ria E TE CA i R E E C N M R A T O N L O R D L Z A E E U L n G C C À Z A A A O A P N SA A Giardini P VIA del Ros' ariPUoSAL E i LE N IZ L N T ZA T T L X SantI ’AZIgDA nese D A XIV N D DEL F A L C AMG OR N E I N E O A A O O E F G L N Chiesa di d E S L O M A A C L I A AL E R LE D r Chiesa di SCaAnNMtaP MO aDE L NDIria A R bridge and one of Venice’s most romantic sights that can be accessed I B AV R N ORIO N SACNAT'AGN TERÀE SAN VIOSEF O San Giorgio Maggiore S T A N O F FO I a N P N C della ViDsitazione A E R E A AM i E M E N N i T S A A S. Giorgio R N ZA T A E D I B RE C N L G O A O I O I G E B M ES F L AT A E C I L N R A R l U V Giudecca Hilton U C E I N V e O T E O E Zattere N N L R I L E FON A A d O FOND DA H V A M C I ME E C M E NTO N L T B A C EATE G ZA CALE DELA CREA United S tates IU T U E LIA T E N E E A Z R o CAMPIELLO E L CAL A L E AL E MONTE P G i AS L L Pavilion UBIO DEL VAPORETTO O A P L SIR L A IT I O A I S A A V CAMPIELLO N C A O TO RussiaR T Spirito Santo R C T F D V C E ONDA Pavilion C t M I R EN Giudecca Hilton TA I A O ZATERE ISOLA DI N . M L P I F A E S A O V P O R N N P L U N E Spirito Santo TE I Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo A D SAN GIORGIO B Japan A D I V ESACCALCA N B S A L E DE F A E L LA S O N L PavilionC. M L AC A D A A N I EL B V C D C A E C A IO RSOO S M G T N E I IN A N T N A MAGGIORE N FISOLA T S O A A A T CAL S A della Misericordia ' S CALL LE L T E DEL ARGA D AN N E LA EI L E A CHIESA AVRANE B TO L N RI I M O N C AG A CHINA E D T IO N ALE L N PO O ER L ' D NTE F E GEN E A E LAV AL R L Ò L R C A E AN C. Sant'Elena L ERI S ZU N O L SACCA PA GNA A IC A A C F. O San Gerardo Sant'EGuiufemdeciaca Palanca ZiteLllee Zitelle LE 'ELENT N N CAMPIELLO L CA N D SAN BIAGIOCAMSPAIENL LOCATALDO FONDAME LLE Teatro Verde CA LE CA IALE SA SA N T R V SAN GERARDO TA SANT' ZIE NARO RA Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido I C EUFEMIA ENTA IE A R AL M V SAN MARZIALE LE A I N CONVERTI FOND V R E O FONDAMEN ParcIAo delle O G LI O TA PONTE PIC RimeLmE branze A S LO' ND COL IV E EL A G I UDE C C A CE TE VI NO Lido S. Nicolo' D R R OC MAR AL V L C LE FE BE PO DI E EM A L A M V

L A ca A LE C I A TA E R FONDAM NT O C IT BR D OSM IL C T LE O ENTA SAN RedentMEore IEL N T E SANT’ELENA . N O B E E GIAC A P O O E G OM M S O O D R D N ND CA A C R T N N T E U O O LE C M A I O I A S L L F CAL A LE L O S L E O L L A V R E R E A o T C E E A D G L C N OM L O N A L O E S Scuola Navale Militare when visiting Palazzo Ducale.p alazzoducale.visitmuve.it T I E A P C P E N M T C g O IA AN IZ T E R C G RM IO O À E O G n N C "Francesco Morosini" ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA M D N AL O I A A C IA A E DE RAM C N F S L D C E u A LA C LE H L E RO AL R F N C T L C C E E A L L N L Santissimo Redentore i CA FO E A t E CA R L C AM A R E O E L e ND QUER N T O CA FONDAMENTA PALAD FO ALE S GE NG CALE SC A n CALE MORE C LO LI UOL E Santa Croce K A o C C E O A A B R I O M ER P C L V I PO E IO A CA L RI L l R E J E SCU E ND U OL D A FO N A e CALE T A G E ALB l O L ERO N EL R I HA L E D E O A d M L N L U S C A CA D o ON i F LÒ F R O CALE ORTI IC CAMPO N T Hundertwasser' Garden AN VI L A S N A C R IP E IE RO V A Chiesa dei Gesuiti I o R O RIN R A b M D A IZIO À E OSP N I E LL' DE I D A L VIA SAN LEONARDO O R F D L IP u E VIA A C B FRA VI M L NCESC LA O R O DUO L S. Servolo DO ETTA V M A B IA IA ISA E M VIA EL IL . F F IA U OS RA P s AR Q CA NC N E O M A R E A I SC T IA IN O MA A ISOLA LA GRAZIA SAN V DU ERA OD

Wednesday to Monday. €€. www.gustomadre.it. O www.gofriemiassepiemontesi.it. Via San N U O V A I S O L A SAN SERVOLO I O C RIV VA N C MISIRNE FRIÀ M CAMPO D VA AURO L D I 3 C r D T E ENO R ONT COLO Z ZIO Palazzo Labia O ROP VI UN G A N A TempioNE Votivo R N Della Pace Di VA enezia A A IA VIA Z ' t V PA D L IA E M O V L L E GRAN OERIZ IE IALV S ZO ABR LO AEN G o C E AL VIA T MA RE DO RI A F G GE MIC A ELS TA M O RO HIEL ABIET OS GO S D TA G N N N A U Parco A E T O S M L i IA FA

I t V A A VI E N

l I N Canale della M i

SAFFA A R VIA O R R S SO PAR I VIA D TE P DA CIPAZI NDO L OR LO EN

M O V RICO

T I A

E I L

A V N E O P V A I C

A A I A A N R T V Salone del Tiepolo L A L T . M O M A . M s o OC MO ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI EN EL A IGO LI E UG P G Grand Canal A E R i D N A MA S O , G UN Savorgnan L San Leonardo T Monastero ArOmeno Mechitarista O N C EM D L LO N I A L D A V N A G IA N L J E O A O CO A S R PO I ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE I D NAN TR N I I IA A IS V S S A V L A I I V E V V O I R A D E L T RONCH E T T O G A A L P D LIP

I O R O I F N Convento DelleLI Figlie IE T C N A T Del Cuore Di Gesu' E

T T A AZIA

E s R ALM VIA D R I A L I D O D I V E NEZ I A VIA N The main waterway in Venice - and the most beautiful ‘street’ in the O O L O C U p RENZ AR

À i La Maddalena E C O M MAR O L CEL ELM LE A 100 m LO LI ' VIA G A DOMENICO GU A Q SELVOVIA C RE T O AND I A CAMPO L A L M

H r C A O

G NG E O U L V R L D N A A DI H R S N IA CA E V IA V Festival Danza Orientale g o I C C A M P O e Danza del Ventre Venezia r C A ES E IN LAZZARETTO VECCHIO L A N A A Pdaela Lzzidoo ddei lV ceinemzia SAN GEREMIA V L IA MO I A C i ROS o I S world - it is lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, D R ISOLA DELLE ROSE NI o I G A Santa Fosca V N l IA O P O RC t I L AM L ET AL L R G O V R O ROIAAN M Hotel Excelsior Venice F B E D E I G E SUI T I T I O U D O NIO L C RA AN LAM UG O S. AntonTT i So Di PBERTad Gova V I IA I E L A IA D. P V MAR IZZ O A N AMANO NG n VIA ANDR LU ®

L M San Marcuola C L D O EA CALM E T O M RIN O V A I S C A A I P. G A D VIA ARZO A M IV A.M NI a R O ROSINI VI AL f N I E VIA EONARD e E J.DI O LO D L T N E N EDO REDAN N CAMPIELLO O LL churches, hotels and other public buildings. CE r D T R I L S MA LD R A ISOLA SAN SPIRITO TO IVA I E C ET V N A O o O ED IO O C EN ON LL AR E B T A I M N G Z IVA A O O IA R M R V ND IEL E A L e E S UG A IA G V E V CAMPO L R C A N M L DEL REMER O T V G L IA CR UN A ISTO L s A i FORO D E N C COLOM

B h A R O A O L L F AL A G F O ’ DRO E AN S k S A e A VIA L I SAN D A N V P San Geremia I SAN MARCUOLA A L GAFETA D A LIDO M Z L VIA ON VIA SAN PIGA G GAN FETA L . IA r E N S T A C E IR D SP d A A . D W F O AN N E LI H L E EL ON I D S A L IN N O E V JE O D I I LA L a N L 3 N O A SE G N C G A VA I O N O E R I A R G VI ND P Casino S IVA VIA AN SA E R N D A T P RE I I P R A DAV A C A ASOL T O A 4 A G D R R T A L o R A V A I m L M A DE O V A I SESSA T E i I O L U I V D M VIA FRANCESC N S A O PEZOZANA C N E e I L AL O L U L an d L V E Q A di Venezia T R E PAS G L I O S.Marcuola A R R D IE AN E I V C I N R A S O I B V E V I E D IA DEL O ZA TA d H I T T e VIA C M DEI R VIA GI Turin, the best place to go for a good, fusion-style R D EMON OVAN A DI NI Scala Contarini del Bovolo T C T E NI PIVIDOR People Mover Venezia VIA E CO L C ET A A N E TI a E I D FO L n R CO À N C T CAMPO DE O D LE M L N A L r C i . E e D A I M O I A S I T C I A I AR V V L O d T L A L I L N OR E t O O A I D z n L N Museo Z L A V V a E LE ERBE IE E e R A R H D C r a The architectural beauty of Palazzo Contarini and its external ‘bovolo’ Z A E FO d G L C CAMPO O R I c L ISOLA POVEGLIA l L O l g VIA A L ALVISOPO e E C CO LI FO C L O a DE LA CARITA’ M Civico S ALA M I SOL A D E L LE TRESS E r P VIA E T n T U o a a U I N I

T A D e (snail-shell), combined with the view from the top, are well worth a O R O A D E C T C O t m I A P M N D A VIA FE I RU CIO PAR Di Storia E ’ L RI s L E VIG N O L E R D R Z E N L O CORTE DEL i I L O T a E ® E CO

S Z A OC A M LA 9 A MA L B A A S.Stae O I g REMER L V San Felice L e visit. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com Riva de Biaso I P C E B A A F R L L O I G R r

Naturale e I C E D C L U A A L

C L T R L CCO r T A L MO e E U E E ALA

o I M _1 8 A V I O D C S N VI Santa Maria I DE L i TE EL M ALA M O C C O

R R Chiesa S. Maria Assunta

T V I R V

A R D PIAZZA h

San Zan G

O DELLE ERBE Y

I À E À O

L A E E N ERÀ A O T N RIO T B I

Palazzo I D O I

T R AR C O V S O

I L N E N T L B O

Via G. Mazzini, 31/A T: 011 18894434. Map G6 R hoah Tommaso, 7. T: 349 3926090. Map F4 A A L E G E L E L F R ar e M R A A W E H A U M H di Nazareth A E O L T O D A Parcheggio Bus Turistici T I O EL C Degola C R D G I MO CORTE DEL

O emorial M 5 N T Gidoni E R G L A

C N A T O 5 E D F • CAMPO O R POZETO I T C R S N Z M E O of ilan F L P O I L L O DE ORO O A SAN ZAN DEGOLA’ A L E L

C T E T P CAMPIELLO R I

D A Teatro La Fenice S A A O L D . A R C S O L R F I A C San Stae C I DE LA MADONNA L E I E A I O T S L N E E L L M D E P T T L O U N S A T Ca' Pesaro T A R L T S N Twice destroyed by ﬁre and twice restored to its former splendour, it O L N Q D C N E W T CAMPIELLO O A A CAMPIELLO L S

Ponte ’ E D EN R I E A . L

N S T s M CAMPO R E - Santa Sofia I A VALMARANA A M O D DEL PESTRIN D A T R A Galleria Internazionale D N C L E D C R A A n A R À Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia T L E o ’ A E ND I D O S L has been for centuries Venice’s principal stage for world-class opera, E E CORTE l degli Scalzi A . L F S R E N A O R ’I O D o SAN SIMON A SOL N V C V F D A i R R BATAGIA San Lazzaro T V B A N d'Arte Moderna O R I L C I T Y M A P I E A t E S A A O V E A C T T E ’ A CORTE L O L T O A S S Z i N N GRANDO D L Ca’ D’Oro me l music, ballet and theatre. www.teatrolafenice.it D I I L I L A A I t

CORTESE A dei Mendicanti ca N C A ’ A D CAMPIELLO A O Ferrovia E A O

C C i L I I N n A CA G L D A C C C V ani iaggi -

L l LE CAZ . F AL A STELLA I L Z R A U L A R D L A C O B a E S E D A Fo r E E Z L L C R A S L CORTE NOVA c L A I ilan isitor M L A L N E O C C. T L DE L C A E

T e O LA A C N C C di 12 V E O A A t A O I enter D M A E N S L I A . S 6 L L S L n T a A Santi Apostoli I ) L T E n I R G L U E S O CAMPIELLO e San Simeone O E E r Pu b L D P N n o U E O E o NG S CAL R I M LE SAV A R M CAMPIELLO WIDMANN D fish dish is Street Fish, a venue renowned for its A IO R T A O C M a A E I L L P m C O C L A to S San Simeon C C G Cà d'Oro AR R G E A Z E DELLA CASON E A i T Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco Profeta T I l B A Z

N R a . I D T I à E L T T EL e N T A E G A I t L N

I g L L is i PO A L T E i I N O E D l Malpensa Airport A r Piccolo A I CORTE DEL L T E L IC San Giacomo S M A E r V A Renaissance complex consistinTg of a church and a palace, it was M I C a R D e IT N O N TIOZZI C E o A a RU G R N L A T c U V i O ECC A A CAMPIELLO D s T N E HIA (45km) A S.Canciano Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo A O O T P n N i

Chiesa Evangelica o N A dall'Orio C R o SAN CANCIANO N C

M ( B r T M C V N A D AL A l ERC A A d R L O A M IO E L

built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco. The interiors are ﬁlled with E , M E A CC . D A C D L F e

D e I I E E Ferrovia TR N W S CAMPO M C o g E A e v N P S C I Luterana U D E D EL v G A E O l IO A L Z A L L l I G E A D l Z LE L D E N N G N L D E E A a Mo r R ELLA LI D C ® numerous treaIsures. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org RUGA BELA E A R L a N D People Mover Venezia O H NAZARIO c O Santa Maria L E F A M S f

S e

A c E O E O A CAMPO L

F Z S I Palazzo r M T M R CAMPO O L C F s I N C L o T I E S.MARIA NOVA i S E D e A SAURO A c O D AM B Mater Domini s ON SAN GIACOMO i L CAMPO DELLA C d A C h N V Soranzo E LL L Rho Fairgrounds - E k h A E E L LA E E e DALL’ORIO San Cassiano N R r C N L I PESCARIA ZIA G W

N A Santa Maria del Pianto r S CAMPO A p 7 CA G B D C T R AN . A I C C E S O GA o A Capello A L a E H M1 Rho FierAamilano D Palazzo Grioni SANTA MARIA L d E T T IZA N IN I I G L S AL A r O ma S n N O Giardino di Palazzo A L O O R R B E MATER DOMINI T R L i P.le Roma F R B O O L e Santa Maria G E CAMPO F I E O D CAMPO P O an

T Z O E

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari R N E O Ferrovia M L D m O B R T d L EI y À Soranzo Cappello D T E E e A G T SAN CASSAN A S T E Basilica dei il A O SAN BOLDO D CAMPO DE LA L D I T L G a T I A b D A A C N E M dei Miracoli n A E C L O r M Z LL I E E E i C . V M L N OR H T D E D I A N S S L R t Known by the Venetians simply as ‘I Frari’, this landmark features 17 E E ET C L TI O BECARIE Z E N z A A A d V C L E N . O R L I O A N C N A E N L San Giovanni C Santi Giovanni e Paolo E A C T 0 ra T E C L A L A N F S B C O L I a A A L O F L d A L O A L E C L A C L E S L CAMPO D te e C C D L ’B L D D B E CAMPO C 2 A I L U A g

E e D O C E O . B FO I H E C O D A L R C N C R n E E C C N 0 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval T H E L A CESARE BATTISTI C O G r O I U a V Grisostomo i C A L ’ C A I R L O IN E M Z H LL E P 4

U D e O A E O C C E U N GIÀ E CA SANTI GIOVANNI A L T S P I T T O L N . ’A T t D D L I E m 2 C L A S L P r I A L A L N C N E I DELLA M A s L A B E A E O A C A Ponte T ’ L O I i

monument in Gothic-Venetian style houses the tombs and funerary A O D

S E ® C E T C G TA T S FO BELLA VIENNA V O E E T E PAOLO E N E N T T T S D O E L A g Teatro Malibran L E

D e S A S I M S L L E A E I CAMPO A R UO ’ L I L N T T A A T r M O C A

A H e N A R T AL O C C N L L A C E M R A della Costituzione S I N C C O D S R E r O N C E N SAN GIACOMETO I E E F N L A e E C I N E A monuments of famous people including Titian, Monteverdi and E . L C E H O U S E A R B E S O A D A R E D L O A T E R N Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto L I V S E R V M N E M C U C L h . D O e M G C A L L U A A A L A E A I N CAMPO IO O G C L L E D ’ . O E I r M A S LE CORTE SECONDA S C S D L M G T R L E L A R A D F A P L G P O T . R L C L N L G L S V E E . W R A E a N I D E C A A A S E A E C O R I D O E IO CARAMPANE L N R DEL MILION A E A D S Canova. www.basilicadeifrari.it SANT’AGOSTINO L A E S L A C D C F D O T San Giacomo C L L A F E T N A I R N T L C O C R delicious fish dishes and informal atmosphere. F I E E E Mollìca O T N O L S A CORTE DEL S E L R E E E I O P E E O G R B L E I À L E D V B D M D E R N A V A R T O E RB L D L I R A A L I . E A E R N E S IA C TEATRO A H N DE A E L L E L Z E D L diI Rialto C CAMPO O T A A E I OL D C C L E C Casa di Marco Polo LL R C C A C L A C L E L C L LL C R I A A . A E SANTA A C A A D O R D E A O EL LL M A M E C L C E A C A S O A E V C S Z FE A T M O M T S S L N N E CA IER GIUSTINA E A C Z 8 E N CAMPIELLO P L A FR SA C T Canale De Scomenz A CAMPO Sant'Andrea Z ' Giardino A L A G O R A N A N N O E T O Z G L C R S E À Z E E CAMPIELLO D DETTO DE M ES San Francesco A DO E L U E R C D G S L I ’ O N L RIALTO O T T S N E L A ALBRIZZI O R U IE en Tour ilan D U L C BARBARIA A R A E I N E T C 9 AL E Fontego T O LE D O R N I E LA LAC DEL SOL Z NUOVO C C Papadopoli A M M D F A A E T O - T E S A I N T

Gallerie dell’Accademia O ' L della Vigna D E I E CA L O A C C L L A A L P S E Z E M L H L O N A L ON E

C C o

A T N D A l D E L T dei Tedeschi P L A L A

A l L L L C R C A E O N L A C L E E O L N A E A DE S E E A C

10 e Z L L The Gallerie host the most important collection of Venetian and A E V O N E L D L A Z A L A U C D E A L E E O L R C A C C V P D L L E D E E I . L CAMPO L E D D N S E M C E C E D E m C A A C E D L C D S A F E O L T O Sant’Aponal . . I O . O I C T M L E r AI L E N N A E A PI SANTA L CAMPIELLO DELLA O M C D D T D O P E R

A 0 E H L

O I L Q G T I P E L E M G L D O A Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and the 18th ce nturies. CAMPO E IN O E L U B L L o LL L M S U E R I N O L GIUSTINA

CA A 1 O S AN P OLO E C A T Ponte G A CONFRATERNITA Z C G E O D F F A S E U C D D A E C L O SAN STIN A A . N F E G R L P P A L A O S A N T A C R O C E N S E E L G L L N

I N I A G L P A I D CAMPO O L O D e R I E CORTE I AL 20 O CAMPO A CAMPO Z R V A

R A A O Z I L CORTE A Z Z

Z Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, A t I D N di Rialto O M R N . M Z O I R Z A E TREVISAN E

C I V R E E A CAMPO N N F

O ) A I SAN APONAL I D DEL I y M T I A

O . R P C C L

P N A A SAN BORTOLOMIO A DELLA CELESTIA I T l D San Nicola T H L T C E L P PRESTRIN E A E o E R E DEL VOLTO O I E I R o M C À D O E N R L A S E u Venezia m People Mover I X N E N E R A CAMPO L M D Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by PIAZZALE ROMA M N L V O

S O E m J T T A O A R I A O I A P AL o L E

N ’ N T da TolentinoA M E L T C D R C CAMPO N D L À L L O N M Rialto SAN LIO à O N S c U E L A A O A O T 9 t

O E . E C A O L V RI I A S I ga D i L S CAMPIELLO M CORTE I

A B A 1 C I O C M L CAMPIELLO C R L l T r several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and n E . I R L L M L D R A A N SAN POLO CAMPO M E SANTA MARIA A V San Silvestro , A D L S D U A C O E D E A D a D B L

O e E O E L . R R S DEL MORION a R R S DEI I AL I I O E DE Z IZA T FORMOSA N I D l O I B L A F A A 3 C E S L c N N D E A T L D I A P NTA San Lorenzo G i E L CORTE O B I L IU R C E S FONDAMENTA ST E L O SAN SILVESTRO R C A D INA

U L L 5 TASTING EXPERIENCE À . F ( MC ELONI D N E o L I D S E Guardi. www.gallerieaccademia.it . A L P E L E .

A l A A L IO D DEI PRETI CAMPO O L Z N E G C F A D DE LA m T C C A C 4 L C .

R L 'A D A R I R , A I A e L A E V N I Z C L e E Z

D C . A L L O

e . R A R E LE O CALLE LARGA SAN LOR CAMPO SANTA TERNITA ENZO v E R L VIDA A Z

A v io D r

L E T R ONCH E T T O N O B Fontego A o E

R l T I E CAL Santa Maria R RI C. E I L L al e d L A L G A S A O E R G L San Rocco Basilica A R A R M A M e F SAN LORENZO N B L C CORTE DEL M c F Chiesa Rettoriale E A I h O L I l Z E O A R N I ca A C C R Z Santa Maria ENZO Z e M Z BORGOLOCO SAN LOR S

D Dolfin Manin A Z E

9 T G Formosa Palazzo o D O N A s C L IN SABION CAMPO CORTE L M A w Download OPEN CITYAPP, the one and only created to D i E Palazzo Rava I O

O E dei Frari . T T n

C R F A c T DEL MONDO di S. Polo L I O un I L S CORTE NOVA C i N CAMPO DE LA FAVA d L CAMPOIELLO . H N A I D S T Rialto E a

D CORTE L della Fava NUOVO w E IO O E C A F

A G l

R I Grimani O e M L ’

A h I io R IC R L Cooked salame from Monferrato, double lard, I O Options on offer include fish tartare served in a DE LA PASINA N M M D E DE i H E C F ACCA e gh P TE S E A COR L C A The Jewish ghetto S L T E R O N A A C (Palazzo Cavalli) A SAN SALVADOR L C w T Z r A N C p D A i change theRiow Deayto visit a city. Try a new experience to enjoy M A O C. I AB A T DEI FRARI L RI O N D A I et A O o O L M T A L - A o della ConsolazioneI O L S D A o A A a E Z I L M E C M N w C N O CORTE D E Z E I C A A e M S N .

R r B IN V AL ON C A M M A A A B B N ER V CORTE D n B T S E S 6 7 - E A O O AD L E D L O 0 The ﬁrst ever, it was established in 1516 in the sestiere of Cannaregio. l E A CA i N E E LL F M E b T L O D SA L D N N L O A R T M R RUBBI T ORENZO A N A E N G T CAMPO ’ L E E i S.Silvestro L A 1 O a N E a O L L T your visit, following your rhythm and interests. Become B LICINI A E E T L T C r T M uo gaze O A D A O D N CAMPIELLO A A D m T m

C n 0

D y C E A l A S R N Palazzo S T SAN ROCCO E O R S S i QUERINI A F Teatro L A L O S A A o 2 . n San Giovanni O b S L E E S Its magical, cocoon-like atmosphere brings to mind Sheakespeare’s N C C N

L A L R L N A MU STAMPALIA I V O A L G c v L C U S G C L L IZ I A E L A A o L G E e the key-player of your time and discover a completely O A O E C Querini P S M L V T M

D 0 o D C A eg R Carlo Goldoni A R DE San SalvadorA C A S T E L L O A E C R N E E R E C r di Malta E C I A G E . S N N A Z M A S R L C e io e I 2 A B R play ‘The Merchant of Venice’. E A Palazzo A CORTE DEL I N L an . A L E S O A I R U C N A L L I Z L L CORTE A L L A E Z v B F n - A P S L S O U A C L 0 E L Stampalia il O D CORTE N A L O E Z B E F O E unknown Milan in a innovative and immersive wE ay. TEATRO R a E EL A N e T mb r C A R z T L P D A T E FRUTARIOLI D 4 I I C n C N I E O A E E O A L A CORTE L DELLE GATE uo c L Querini-Dubois A m T C L o E C O L P e 2 I C L S L L Printe d I O A L I i S D A A R E A T ’A R A N A C E A t E C a B L e I I T Palazzo L N D A NUOVA N N Z L L C La Biennale di Venezia E A n e t S E l O CA Z L r N E L E L v E N CORTE DEL LLE LION B L R L CORTE I O E R d E E R L a ANI E L I E DEI FURL L P B Z CALL e A C a A E R e 10 I S T G C d POZZO ROVERSO O CAMPIELLO O e E A n C P O C C S Z S CAMPO C D LU I A A

D . s R U o TRAMONTIN C O D C R A IS N A E D A I A V C a L T P N Z F h Grimani I À E Educational Arsenale I E E R A E r I V C L r L L L D AL nt E LL L M A N L L LO E O S I DUE POZZI T L E SAN TOMÀ O A A T M R T CAMPOIELLO

L A 4 D D L A S E M PRE C e O L G C G E EI w I EI A L P O D N E C I A R LE A r R P I I D A L R C A 1 Arsenale di Venezia l L L C Rialto Bridge A RE C I A .D P Z DE LA L L E E F C E IE A A L me A T a A I D @ C L I L R C R L E O LE C F E A . I E L B n A D A L a B FRATERNA C AS A EI S L E D o N E C B P A A D A a L San Giuliano E f G San Tomà B O I d O C A G N C . G L N T L 0

N l de The oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand D A L E R E Z C 4

C E n Z O L n

U Wh e L L N A I L L AGAZE I G M i

L E CORTE EL 1 A E A I IA CALLE D S D

M o i D L N C E 2 M C E San Giovanni Novo . San Luca A CAMPIELLO L E San Beneto D I R U O F E C DEL FORNO N d T L 8 La Biennale di Venezia San Pantalon L Rio O CAMPO I C D B h L D E DELLA A A T 20 S d S T Sant'Angelo C A I A . Canal, it is lined on both sides by shops. IN R L R R R 1 E E c N L SAN ZUANE A S

ei CHIESA L MA o I R A C L A OS T R T E L’ M y ole A CORTE I lle t Giardino delle Vergini G E N E A I a T 0 D O m E NOVO N l 11 D C A n H T Teatro alle Tese A 4 N N A L O C tini E E r F R A e S O E CAMPO GRAGOLINA AM S n CORTE 2 Palazzo L N I E D E O Palazzo E S D M S N T S S A A

O U L L AM E O D F a R I C T P P C ZA C IN d A R . I E Ju R DEL A D N I A O A A . A ’ C G SAN BENETO V G L E P T CAMPO C R SA

IZZ L J A I G D A E

R A O C I N D IS R N N A A Z A IO FORNO A FIGHER T AN E P e n T CALLE DEL E L O H O T O L 9 N N A O O L Z Giustinian R N E R Nervi N A n.c o U A I

D C a O DU L R E T IN M L I R 11 I V SAN PANTALON VECCHIO IN A R

E e m Z O L R T San Giorgio i 1 DA D I E o CAMPO a A O O C

N l O I O E D e O I G L I O d N F SESTIERE A ARC , GA D P O E R C L

M r e R I S G . il N N L N E A p R Persico . A l M E S e 3 Scattolin O NI C C anal L C E NE L A I I R T R MANIN N G C Z Palazzo Fortuny Z E O d V A E S L L L R A R dei Greci A E T Z CO L p er A DI SAN MARCO E ’ L A C E 5 A D O R E O L A P U LL CA C g Palazzo Fortuny Z I E CAMPO I R A n T E À C N

F . L T N D T R O u i A C L n

A R N C

E S. Toma' SX l R N S 4 D R A E I i S E O A U A C L D . 8 L C O C E T A A L S A E E C L re m O L A D R L O E SAN . hand-massaged Parma ham, Toma d’alpeggio corn tacos, ceviches, fish balls, a Hawaiian-style fish a

E D R L L L LA CERTOSA L O P E A L I O E . I D A E L G E E C L L O 4 R : A A L C L A l

D e

A L G C R T L L o . E The museum boasts an extensive collection of pieces and materials N R L L A TE

PROVOLO r E I E T O E C I A C C C o

A M T CORTE DELL’ALBERO E D N O N e A E O B

h L O A L E N IG

L L t D L R A C P s I R A N N L C O N E A L B E I C M I O A A I D R A R À t

M F LL V O A E PIAZZETTA T Arsenale di Venezia A E E T E IN G E S A S

G Rio w C N I V L L .D D i O S S A E M a L L N N C E I S bi l T S C

Palazzo o F Z AR E I O A L I P . I S H A IN R A DEI LEONCINI O L r R O CAMPO

A A C E L A E S S O GEOLOCATION/GEOFENCING / AUGMENTED REALITY o commissioned by Mariano Fortuny for important project:s paintings, A C E S S D

L E N N T a Palazzo Balbi N C n A E E A c A . A D N L T CORTE E L

L O E L 1 O w D T D À TER L L I

A s T C N E Z Basilica di San Pietro di Castello S R S D SAN C N ZE A A s I A R RA a

O E I A C MO PRIM O O S O DE m . D E L T C A PE E S R

G l F F A OLA i A T Mocenigo F TORRETTA tal i L D E O De n

i O O A w A L C A I

E RI a F E LORENZO , N B O N

L R L l C CAMPO O E

O l CAMPO - lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. B L o R C E L A D I E R C

N I A A R R w M C r N e

A R A A P B E CA A N E C L o L LL L

T A I P E R T R T T I SAN GALLO D p L O E L V M l L L E C D

E A L r E D P T . D C A r R A C - PI 0 A E

E S A E C E A T L I L L A T I C L E A M M ’ A A S E BANDIERA s E F . L

O I A R R A D O R N A P E D San Zaccaria N

L M L C S L e G

E D L M 12 e L C G E TA F O L S O CORTE E A b D E T N D N E S E E O R i E C E a E E D A A O A www.fortuny-visitmuve.it N E O & STREET FOOD E D C L M I a L E L L h L i S D DI A L m B V A O R San Martino r E A R N

D L I A DELLE ANCORE ’ 11 A G C N N ’ C E E MORO N O C E O Re D SPECIAL P A V A F O L A C A L l E F SE A T

S R L R A L T L I T azz o D L L E A 20 1 Basilica N F O A A A

E E B V al O S

L R W E A

L C L N

I . P n A E A e D L O A D t I E c A A Z R S A C M L C A P L O L I r C E T I E E

M G U N e

C R L FONDAMENTA T a A . A F F L A A S C L A L ’ E C L E A L S C E O r

e: R U L L CAMPO DI V L D o A E C T S T A di San Marco . o

E eg

R e E

E P A E L L N S A A L L T r A D L t A N S M C R L A E U E L an . C I r C E O Santa Maria E b O E E L O DEI S C M t D C M I S R

12 E T E N D o C H M

O V A e il E L e F A O R I U t CAMPIELLO E A - I SANTA CAMPO T A S L A e I D i m

E I D . L San Giovanni Battista O C N O R N RC L

E r E

h E C d E T H S Bacino E ARSENALOTTI L V E A L CAL Bacino Stazione Marittima G n E R Z E della Pietà m F T L 2 L L

Z E e N N DE LA A C E A O DEI E L I F O D R E T R O E V a

E I L C t

e D O E O C o D D Di W E MARGHERITA A O C Ed

L l

Peggy Guggenheim Collection T i R I A

S t L S A N A Z I R in Bragora SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO C I N L E E La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale i A VIDA R Orseolo E A SQUELINI a R CAMPO E L S Z I L A S AN M A RCZ O E F L

AL e C E M A O R M A S I R R D F L M O C E A N B E N s D A O M G he r

R A C N

E L C A O 16 R . n The museum, boasting one of the most important collections of the E IN R S C A M S O SANT’ANZOLO C R O N R . B S A C V I I D

E S 4 C A e D O P IO C E E E L L I w San Fantin O ’OG T E Z P N T . E L I Z E D H D I E L r D Z E A Z 1 E A O E N F O a O I G C L D O A CAMPO G L ALL D O N R R A E C A Palazzo R A L V A D N Palazzo Ducale T H L A I @ L ER R LE E L A A e B T L M 15 5 C I l E A O L E E A P H E E ALL N S I N I L C C IE C L L N T D C H A E 20th century art in Europe, hosts the personal collection of American A S O T U A C R N A

i h D A L O o E A R DEI E L I I V e C T IO L E S E in l L O R A A R L E E M N D G A f E R E E D C G E T L E G L C O L E E L D R m S L D E A A D S C I Grassi F d L A I L R C C A V n L E S O W U T T CARMINI C I U L R I R 6 L E

H i R L A H 3 A Car G I A ' A I A A E A R A D V i Santo Stefano G L 2 M C I A I heiress Peggy Guggenheim. www.guggenheim-venice.it R O D N S 2 C V Museo . N O A R el F A I E L I ’ RA B ’ T O C A A L A A N E E A M D L A E T R L L L 8 A L L L h A SA C C N C A E I T T L L N S A Z D V 7 I A C O E A E T N Rio d E c . r San Samuele M A N I A L o d A P U N R N C A T E E R D I Correr E P R R

Ca' Rezzonico t M O A V D Q I I a ME T D E A M C I E A N G R A N a RA CO A E Teatro la Fenice r ND ’ N L E ST E n O ’ A A C O T L E D RT O M 20 1 F D A A SE O L E S. Samuele I T L R Santa Maria CAMPO C C LL a A A A O C A H E S M . ON UNTI L MAY 31 2018 M O A L S. Zaccaria (Pieta') n CAMPIELLO S P E O P R O L 13 C N F A L J FREE I Canale Scomenzera L C D A C A S A E A C . n L A A E cheese with pepper and creamy gorgonzola. At A D m e

bowl, Thai noodles and house specials based on the Z SANTO STEFANO IN E M T DEI CALEGHERI D A Ca' Rezzonico C N I N I a dei Carmini S S A E S. Zaccaria (Danieli) M d E I N e P S C C C C N L

A A R e I AM O O A Z S O DE L A Santa Maria della Salute A r S D TAN E A A A N S

San Moisè O San Barnaba e O L Z R E FONDAMENTA N F O T N L d Simply sign in to get your free code: D pp l L A M Z I T

E R C San Maurizio CAMPO N N TA E E

I O O C O R E D I O . R D E L L u e l . L A A R M R Palazzo Loredan A F TA Generally referred as ‘La Salute’ this jewel of 17th-century baroque S E R DEI FORNI B N A L C C f

L S I A H A O An GH G a N C

LO h C L O C A .

L L A R IE CORTE SAN MOISE’ A CAMP N F T E C . l

N o

A : O getmycode.opencitymilan.com/register t A L O ACC

A L r L O A M E L o Z L L D R V I L O

N A e ’ N N e P O L E S M , L L t C MICHIEL II C O O R F O X A E s D D R X L V 11 L E architecture proudly stands at an important point, almost opposite r LO R A IA E E L A G A L t E R C A I E H R O E I A A L C C C E p E L L i L LE Ri L S R C L A E A I Arsenale e I L A T A bi l A D F N M L C O L B F L L r CAMPO C G A N L Santa Maria D O RE R a R E E A E Z or scan the following QRcode E L E N DE a L A E A N E A . R I O S V I T N P o I E A L Z A D Museo Storico Navale di Venezia s

R S th

L R ali a the Piazza san Marco, where the Grand Canal empties the Lagoon. B L R N S A P r T P I

S m O N I is c A A L I T N 9 t E T C D E A A Z O Sa n

A A A N E C SAN MAURIZIO R C O M N S I del Giglio E I ’ R I s R e A I , O San Francesco RC C N E U R I I E LL S A IN

A l

D s M H

C o D C G T A A LE N T N GIO T O A O L A N e . S i D r A S N e CA CAMPO L C O T F C A U E A Z F L U I N I O 2 V L A r Designed by Longhena, it was consutucted to honor the Virgin Mar y R L E en Tour ilan c

E S

G h A L E n L L T Angelo di Paola SANTA MARIA L C

P is h A L CAMPO e S A E N N A t A I ' I T San Nicolò n A N R S C A E D A

T esp Moi l E D N

I a E E C M N D A M C L DRIO IL E CAMPO I F O h DEL GIGLIO S E B G A F L e

E R

C n A E b A U E T L CORTE R L L for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. A Raffaele CIMITERO E San Vidal i R L u L L S D I al i

C L dei Mendicoli L M W T O A

I e

E u E A E T T NT I D

PISANI N R BAROZZI L L A T A L A

L r C It q A A : I D

E n B A O N R E F I T A p se R E D B L E S. Marco (Vallaresso) I A P I

N e

N o O e

G G E E I L e www.basilicasalutevenezia.it E N o E

V r NUO CAMPO A P t I P C E A

S Palazzo s LL H r G CA H i P ALLE E t C e U A S E A D o

E t U DE L’ANZOLO C C

G I e T n C I G L t T e E h CAMPO A A I D A L C a V I A A RAFAEL h CAMPIELLO T t Istituto Universitario o G E I

Corner N L CAMPIELLO R Ca' Giustinian Giardini della Biennale E O

SAN SEBASTIAN A L T O L T c Linate City Airport f S N m CONTARINI E L D L SAN VIDAL Ed i Di r W

L B

A C r

O E L ’ L

Di Architettura S Gofreria piemonteisa ► e C H

A A 14 I della L E C F

E o O I (6km) N L N T D A C O h L C I f P A N n o I D O R S O G D U R O V Z E

AZ t G T G I C N E A A M P I O A A O L

O n R L V I o O ET Ca’Granda P I E T D D ’ 9 N O r

E i L L L L S CAL C A

I L A Murano A . Accademia A M E L R

R A A T San Sebastiano o O S I C A P E

e E 180418 SM PE2018 Where MAP - ANTA 86x211 copia.pdf 1 18/04/18 12:10 A L T L E wwwA .opencitymilan.com [email protected] Telom+39 02 83 123 903 C A

s L E

h S R O N I A L ET I O S T A N B E AN I Murano, one of the three small islands of the VenSetian arcipelago, t E F Palazzo n LL A A C A

N R I F G

S E C

Ponte f S R 8 o A O S L C I E I Z rmi ss i T . A CAMPO P D A U E

o E Mollica, in piazza Madama Cristina, you can choose A B catch of the day. Half of this small space is occupied N O S S Pisani si

A O

e N N N S A is famous throught the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal I DELLA CARITÀ S AZZIN A G E A A LE DIETRO AI M B I CAL E s URO dell'Accademia N R RSOD S 3 y DO T A L I S G B G I i E IO p O C A E SA N D IE B CH O T E LA

D c CALLE M Santa Maria L FChiO esa di Ognissanti R P . A Gritti N E N I O I D O

A m A D O e

M a R I P workshops still display glassmakers at work). Don’t miss the Glass ENT S C V M N A E del Giglio E DE A N o E E A O T h A N L G A L I C N E

I Gallerie t S T N R

A r L N C E

A G T E Salute N I N D A M I C cu r L E R

10 o M a I C CAMPO A O T n E Museum at Palazzo Giustinian. L a e C A l c C G nd I M a T r I E S A D dell'Accademia F R 12 s A O S SAN BESAGIO N O O D Palazzo AM a T N EN S D L T r A SA I LU O L N O TE E B C E F E o e F O CAMPO P C T A T A O F ALL P r N E th ou t E R D

D h T E Genovese L L S e . L . r P DELLA i D IS L U O T Collezione Peggy t E E O C I R 13 D f O C E G

C . h G S e N A O w I SALUTE M N I N I t

D C o S k A

15 R E A San Trovaso T N ' S A A E T G A T D I c A , Guggenheim e N N T Punta della Dogana d E E CAMPO DI R L N E S r

e E I E fo r E L I

P p F e T E M ON SAN VIO T L N C I CALLE DEL BAS A A TION I e L h I S T D E

L y A D A

Torcello E N a N R A N I E A I C T O c M t C N A N . N h E I L F

uc R

L i I N A R E r

T O l A A DE O San Giuseppe F A i N L o O B T L d O A A e D CAMPO Basilica di t Birthplace of the lagoon, one a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, N N C I C A s m L H E T San Gregorio o M IN S R IE S i E I SAN TROVASO S N E I A r

M n N I di Castello S. Basilio O A si b 100 m T D sh

A ces t A N h F B F p i A FOND Santa Maria e D E . VENI Z E ER DAI LEON t O l

A G n N V

Torcello is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents k T S T À A e on E O N A e R R R r a b

R n F

N E E B D p

I I i della Salute t R O A P u

N A C A M P O u L C A

e E E T s O P E I IS I S N I M I q

and two medieval churches. n O T N N V ME N N O n e If you feel like a quick, light snack while strolling U p

N N C b A T T P E CATE O S N

A E À r

R e E O O TER À 'A T M L o I L I RIO S A N I S E P O R T N A y E N i O N B t e

T e N R A E D SA S T O A G I O t

N I R ns e p S A b O M D h F A U A O L

L O t F e A o S s D R E ma P

15 E

E N N I R Ca' Rezzonico c c L f D O a

L ma O E A D c E R p C 16 E F T T C r h Santa Maria A o T A O S L E T e

A a

i L D E A a R R U

o C M L N

Z e A 16 t R A h NE P O f P S Giardini P V I A n

A r E L U L OZ À E t G E Z IZ C A m X

A o del Rosario Z DA L n X I T L V A D n I N A O M o E S Sant’Agnese' L a A A to have your sandwich filled with these or numerous by an open-plan kitchen that allows you to watch N Burano FO N G G I i R C r n i N A s O T O i T

E c L i N N D Chiesa di A

s o ADI O M n A

E e E

® h G C AL N A y

L s S E F CAMPO DI DE a d A L t L NA D s

I r VA L i

The island of Burano is famous for its artisanal lace work and

R h Chiesa di Santa Maria O O A R c L N RIO f T SANT'AGNESE ER RÀ San Giorgio Maggiore t S n N B A N VIO e R r E I A O

F r

A m O C F o v N N f T o D S F A e M I

della Visitazione N A t N E e O a particular kind of biscuit. Don’t miss the Lace Museum. N P o T E S. Giorgio

A si C

Z t E A R A T M i

T s E

E A y s R N is h

R pe r E S l A D l I pa r G I A c E N B S L U b I C e A O G mi a T hi I F O B o

E u M r

A o h

R E t N p Giudecca Hilton W

L r

U l cu

C t

E o Zattere N I OV c V e T u F E s

O a N L O N r

N o F D I A L ONDAM ME R A E N A E d MUSEUM PASS N o e TO T O h B A V E C DELA CREA A Z H CALLE T r E A L t GI T I

UL T United States h C

E i IANA R M r

E t CAMPIELLO A C E C A L L L E

L M e E O O U N T E P w S A S U Where Italia Editore E DEL VAPORETTO o B P Z I O I k R L Pavilion r IT G c

O E L T S i P A L A d N o e

T L O L I I f

A A Russia V A C Spirito Santo O R ce A combined ticket that offer s access to all the permanent y

R ch O C F t O N u D i T AM Pavilion l Giudecca Hilton EN D V

T C o E A i ZAT d T t ER I R I .

E around piazza Castello, then make sure to stop at N A o collections of Venice’s civic and afﬁliated museums. I S O L A D I ib

M r

n I s L e

O e A E F l

P k V

N O ﬁ ,

Spirito Santo rep a L l U T P The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per

n Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo pon t N E E

I e s

sr Japan a B D A C I D

A n LL S e E D N S A N G I O RGI O B b E a V E e L C r A A S F N i . A S ACC A A D L C l Pavilion A O A E y E L t museum site. Full price ticket: 2 4 euros. L e B L M N V Ur b C a A a I R O p b other ingredients, all sourced exclusively from small the chefs at work, while the other half features high A D O t S I O

I C A y E

C T e G S M s m

b I I c N E e .

N a N A

N r ) A c p T h T p O S M A GGIO R E N e

A a a

CA A C LL FIS O L A A a h e A E S t LL LA T T Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, MuseEo Correr, Museo RG A al y DE A r L D m t L E N o

N M A ' C I LA S

H I a

I V E W O ES RAN T E l

A n ER B ( T O A I M c i I N y

A a I L A H n Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca C A N h

G o

D y

n E b E L a I L t

i O N A r

P n R T E c ON L N O N f

d E e g T F a G E r '

E l

E o L A L E

Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, i

A ri L V A R e t ev R ne C Ò L A C r N A h M O

. t Sant'Elena

ER g

E L

i S Z s - I U is

l l Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and 4 S N

G pa i

S O

N e s 5 A A b A h

S ACC A P o

1 P d u C

I ) A 0 W p Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' PesarSano-Int eGerardornational Gallery Sant'Eufemia . N F g C Zitelle 2 A N M Giudecca Palanca r N , Le Zitelle E E L

o E

1 C

E ' of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, CAMPIELLO . L F A L T N O i N e L L N C A SAN CATALDO l E S

S A N B I A G I O D I A CAMPIELLO E d A A M L Teatro Verde C A LE SAN GERARDO E n C R S Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History. N L N IA M TA E N A V

E S T an ﬁ R A N I O A

Z V b Gofreria Piemontese. Based on a time-honoured T Bi o ' Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido

E r U F E A R T E o M I u i WHERE VENICE MAP - Editore: Where Italia srl. Supplemento di Where Venice N . E A R Y C z I A w LL M E E

Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it E E

A CO ® ® V WHERE magazine and WHERE logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. w H e

D I a

N l V , N i

E l

R w T ﬁ R

O r v W I ( Call center 848 082000 - From abroad +39 041 42730892 TE FO F s ND V I n AME CM NT Parco delle A L a A P a local Piedmont and Italian producers. The bread is O i counters with stools. Open daily 12 noon-3pm/7pm- N O

T l I E

P E rb ICC L O Rimembranze a O LO t

I U O I

V ' D

www.whereitalia.com y L N V N

E E e MY L T . Lido S. Nicolo'

I b A C R

O ) E A A r R M I V E y

G I UDECC A e R O L D

D l R C O E p

C P h

E E a A M M a L E A L A V t L F E B F T C

O B I C L N D A O I W Redentore N M O M L ( T A E R S N L M I A ER TA E E

S A l CY A T I N T O N G M P Ey C E I A O IL T C M O o D O S a L M O A O b B D A C A E E

R n N G E N E M SANT’ELENA L C O R in D N L I D C O O E a A A O T U C L N N F l T E L L g

L A i

S i I A L A L V O C L r E L E ne d E R E T O E CMY R A D L M O g G L C N M N O S i Scuola Navale Militare A E L O O

A E T 4 s

E P - T I P N A C T A I 5 R Z e A N O S M C I G O I 10 R C M O E C A O 1 E d "Francesco Morosini" G L

L P E O N D A M M D E R I A N L C L C K A I A E A A A

L g) C 20 ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA F R L S O

C A H r D E C A E C ,

Santissimo Redentore M E C L T

N E o L 1

L . A N L

O L i E N A e F E O M R A l CA C E d L A A FO Q U N ﬁ L N n DAM D S EN E L A TA P N L G o tradition, ‘gofri’ are the ‘relatives’ of the more I ALL L AD O A

C A an C CA C E L F LLE ALL MORE Bi M E L b

C r U E OL A Duomo-Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II C Via MontenapoleonSantae - Quad rCroceilatero E Via Torino O G Garibaldi-Corso Como I Corso XXII Marzo M Vercelli-Belﬁore-Marghera

LEGENDA E A o

SHOPPING u i . E

ENTERTAINMENT AREAS R

Navigli Brera Corso Garibaldi and Corso Como Arco della Pace-Piazza Sempione Isola Tortona CityLife z D C • • • • • • C E w

AREAS O E B A B Corso Vittorio Emanuele II D Via Dante F Brera-Solferino H Corso Buenos Aires L Navigli-Porta Ticinese N CityLife Shopping District E

R M E R

A w E I H P C C A R a L E O LE D E i O SC L N w U I O v ( J OL F W A R also heavenly! Whether you opt for the ‘spaccatella’, U CALLE A 11pm. €. Via Conte G. Bogino, 4. T: 389 0010612. A LB L N ERO L A E

G T D H E N A L L L E A N A C S C M

F 1910 12 Ò Rio del Ponte Lungo L CAL O LE ORTI C M Hop On Hop Oﬀ Tour I I N L V C A Hundertwasser' Garden on panoramic open-topped red double decker buses N I A N A A N 3 lines with 40 stops and multi-lingual commentary S A T O C L Your personal travel assistant now in the best hotels in Milan! A I P [email protected] www.milano.city-sightseeing.it R C U R R R E U I famous Belgian ‘gaufres’. Made from a yeast- I S O M ISE V L I ILAN OF G A ZANI VIAGGI - MILANO I S R V N D O DUO A A CITY CENTER: Largo Cairoli, 18 N N N I M FICES OPEN EVE by AutostradaleViaggi City Tours • Day Trips • R O and CASTELLO SQUARES O D D S (M1 Cairoli) M I A the ‘morbidoso’ or the ‘focacciona’, there’s no way Map F5 G M O A C Y H CENTRAL STATION: Ground level Shopping Outlets • Ticket Desk O I T T S E I D R (M2-M3 Centrale) Z FREE Choose from over 10 proposals every day I RY DAY at O C IP FREE CITY HOTEL INFO G I N S E +39 02 867131 P A Q B I N CALLS GUIDE & SERVICES INTERNET www.livemilano.com S L U O E Y G [email protected] ' C E T B Start exploring Take advantage of L N E R U Unlimited local Find out hotel L A C R S E O E unlimited connection D LO and international calls the city by information 48hours ON LINE RESERVATIONS The only "all inclusive" City Pass A I www.zaniviaggi.com - www.livemilano.com Get all Milan top attractions while saving V B E R both time and money www. l o o k m i - t ours . c o m N The best for less I N A www.themilanpass.com O +39.02.30089900 [email protected] R IP V C I A A F I R V A N C E S C O D [email protected] U O S. Servolo D O

TA T E V B I A A A I V I S M I A IL E . E L F F R I O AM S A R U C N A A C T Q R E A I S WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 A N C I O 36 www.wheretraveler.com A N 37 I A D ISOLA LA GRAZIA S V U A O R D I E O SAN SERVOLO I V R V E I A N F R R I À M M S A U I A R V O

O E N T Z E N O O O O L I P V I C Z O N R U Tempio Votivo G N E A N N R Della Pace Di Venezia A V A I I A ' V A P Z D A O L A E O I G R E R L V E A N I Z I V I A Z R L O E B S A A O N G L TA L V I M E A D A R A O G I A R G E A M E L A I C I S T M O H A I E B S R L E T T O GO D A G N N A U A L S M A A F VI A I V

V I A N O A R S O PA S V I A R I T E C D A N I P P A Z I D O L O O E

R N R I C O

O V

I A

L I

V E N V

P O

A I

A A I C

V N L R . A T M

O M O C O E M N L ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI I E G I O L G U G E R A M O G N U Monastero Armeno Mechitarista L O

E O L L I L

D A V I A G A J A L C O O P A O O I R N S A R I N ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE I T ND A S I A I V S A I A V I V V I A

G ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN choice of wines and liqueurs, accompanied by a presents an unrivalled range of classics, new plays AFTER DINNER fabulous selection of finger food, focacce and hot, and family entertainment. Open Tues-Sat 1pm- Hiroshima Mon Amour bite-sized pizzas. Open Mon-Thurs 5pm-to 2am; 7pm. www.teatrostabiletorino.it. Fri 5pm-3am; Sat 10am-3am; Sun 10am-2am. Piazza Carignano, 6. T: 011 5169555. Map F4 Founded in the Eighties, Hiroshima Mon Amour is a www.la-drogheria.it. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 18/d. go-to events space for lovers of music, theatre and T: 011 8122414. Map H5 Teatro Nuovo culture. Located near the Lingotto railway station, Teatro Nuovo is Turin’s temple of dance. In addition to over the years it has become a reference point for Lanificio San Salvatore the Teatro Nuovo Foundation, it is home to the Teatro events, music festivals, DJ sets, concerts featuring Located in the trendy, vibrant San Salvario district, Nuovo Company, the Regional Dance Academy, the Italian and international artists, exhibitions and this former wool mill serves high-quality cocktails Teatro Nuovo School of Fine and Performing Arts, clubbing. www.hiroshimamonamour.org. accompanied by a rich buffet of large, tantalizing Choral Music and Musical Theatre and the Valentino Via Bossoli, 83. T: 011 3176636. Off Map dishes that are also suitable for vegetarians. Cinema. Though mainly used to stage musicals, it Jazz Club Torino Highlights include an interesting wine list, including also hosts concerts, ballets and operettas. numerous organic labels, plus a good selection of Open daily. www.teatronuovo.torino.it. Located just steps from Piazza San Carlo, the Jazz classic cocktails. The venue also organizes themed Corso M. d’Azeglio, 17. T: 011 6500211. Off Map Club is justifiably one of Turin’s best venues for Italian evenings and live concerts. Open: Mon-Thurs 6pm- jazz. A meeting place for lovers of the genre, its offers 2am; Fri-Sat 6pm-3am; Sun 11am-2am. Teatro Regio a diverse program of concerts with an emphasis on Via Sant’Anselmo, 30. T: 011 0867568. Map F7 Located in the highly central Piazza Castello, Teatro contemporary trends and up-and-coming artists. The Regio is the ‘grande’ dame of Turinese theatres. The venue also hosts a restaurant and lounge bar where venue was commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II at guests can relax and enjoy a meal or a drink while THEATRES the beginning of the 18th century and designed by listening to the music. Open Wed-Thurs 8.30pm- Teatro Carignano Filippo Juvarra. The theatre’s history is inextricably midnight; Fri 8.30pm-2am; Sat 8.30pm-3am; Sun: see One of the most important theatres in Turin, it linked to several of the world’s most illustrious calendar. www.jazzclub.torino.it. Via S. Francesco da was the place where the king went to watch plays musicians including Arturo Toscanini, Giacomo Paola corner of via Giolitti. T: 011 882939. Map G5 (opera was only performed at the Teatro Regio). Puccini and Richard Strauss who conducted and Les Arcades Dating back to 1700, it is run by the prestigious staged their operas here. Today it presents an exciting international program of operas, ballets This informal locale in the Porta Nuova district, Teatro Stabile di Torino and located in the city’s and concerts. Open Tues-Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat made headlines a few years ago due to Tamango, beautiful piazza Carignano, opposite Palazzo 10.30am4pm. www.teatroregio.torino.it. a hallucinogenic cocktail, that everyone, including Carignano. Teatro Carignano has a reputation for Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 8815557. Map F3 the BBC, talked about. Based on a secret recipe producing theatre of the highest standards and and prepared with a mix of African plants and roots, Tamango gets its red colour from roselle leaves, a species of hibiscus, which apparently prompts a sense of euphoria and a desire to dance. Open Tues-Sat 9.30pm-4am. Via Fratelli Calandra, 10. T: 339 852806. Map G6 Piano35

MICHELE D’OTTAVIO Italy’s highest panoramic lounge bar is housed in the skyscraper designed by Renzo Piano to host the offices of the Intesa Sanpaolo bank. Here you can taste amazing cocktails created by multi-starred PHOTOS © bar tender Mirko Turconi accompanied by an assortment of delectable finger food. The venue offers breathtaking views over a winter garden and the city of Turin. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. www. grattacielointesasanpaolo.com. Corso Inghilterra, 3. A vertical journey amidst the ‘stars’ T: 0114387837. Map B4 Featuring a spectacular layout, this unique ‘vertical museum’, housed in the city’s landmark APERITIVI Mole Antonelliana, is dedicated to the history of cinema. By Elena Peverata Ballantine’s Established in 1971, this was the first American Bar ever opened in Italy. A reference point in the centre of the city for aperitivi, it offers a great selection of ne of the most important film museums ‘Rampa’ which, like a movie, unfolds to reveal >> Museo Nazionale del Cinema wines and cocktails but also fresh fruity non-alcoholic A workshop of culture in the world, the Museo Nazionale del the dome, offering a breathtaking view over www.museocinema.it drinks for teetotalers. Also a popular lunchtime spot. This is one of the landmark spaces of the new spirit of Turin devoted to contemporary OCinema is not only renowned for its rich the museum from above. The ‘Macchina del c/o Mole Antonelliana, via Montebello, 20. Open Mon-Sat 8am-noon; Sun 5pm-10pm. Corso G. art. The OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni (Major rail repair workshops) is an imposing Matteotti, 25. T: 011 5628849. Map D5 collection of exhibits, but also for its unique Cinema’ (+15) is dedicated to the film industry, T: 011 8138560/138561. late 19th century industrial complex that was transformed with one thousand days of location in the beautiful Mole Antonelliana, while the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ is located Beena construction work into a new multi-functional space dedicated to culture and creativity. one of the city’s most impressive historic on level +18. A major highlight of the visit is This venue offers a delectable Indian-style apericena A major rejuvenation for the city. Its story can be told through creative ideas – high-tech (more than an aperitivo and less than a dinner). landmarks. Featuring a unique, vertical layout, it the building’s panoramic elevator (currently solutions, environmental sustainability, the preservation of historical heritage, versatile Instead of a buffet, the menu includes a cocktail and spirals upwards, creating a spectacular display closed for maintenance from 17 September to seven appetizers, served at your table and cooked ADVERTORIALspace and total accessibility, or figures: 35,000 square metres, an investment of 100 million of its extraordinary collections through an 21 October) which takes visitors on a ride, up while you wait in a traditional Tandoori oven. A full euros, seating for 2,750 spectators and 99 for conferences rooms. However, nothing can evocative, interactive itinerary. Organized 85 metres, to the ‘Tempietto’, an observation immersion into the aromas and flavours of India.Open equal the actual experience of being there. In addition to serving as hub for visual and Tues-Sun 6pm-2am. www.beena.it. Via Lombroso, 22. by levels, not floors, in addition to a vast film deck offering a breathtaking view over the city performing arts, the OGR is a start-up incubator where you can admire semi-permanent T: 349 7078645. Map F7 library containing more than 7,000 titles, the and its surrounding Alpine range. The braver installations by William Kentridge, listen to a concert or purchase a book. It’s also where museum’s rich heritage includes collections of heart can also access the panoramic deck La Drogheria you can eat at any time of day or night, at the Snodo restaurant. Located just four Tucked away under the arcades of piazza Vittoria, La dedicated to the archaeology of cinema (level on foot from the ground floor to discover the minutes from the Porta Susa railway station, it’s definitely worth a visit! Drogheria is a stylish cocktail bar with an international + 5 metres), the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (+10), the focal places hidden inside the cavity of the dome. feel. The atmosphere is just right and created with OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni. Corso Castelfidardo, 22. T: 011 0247108. heart of the museum, with areas dedicated to Open Mon, Wed to Sun 9am-8pm (Sat until a mixture of vintage furnishings and contemporary www.ogrtorino.it the great genres of cinematic history, and the 11pm), closed on Tues. works of art. In addition to cocktails, it offers a wide

38 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 39 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ALL CONTRIBUTIONS RELATED TO Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo ticket office closes one hours before the museum. MUSEUMS AND EVENTS ARE BY This is a reference point and a meeting place for Matchday opening hours: see official site. Full ticket connoisseurs and lovers of contemporary art. The price: €15. www.juventus.com/it/stadium-e-museum. Elena Peverata foundation was opened to the public in 2002 and Via Druento 153. T: 011 4530486. Off Map is housed in the former industrial neo-minimalist Lifestyle & Culture Lingotto spaces of the Fergat factory. The building features Editor This complex of cream coloured concrete and glass a large space for temporary exhibitions, and its ® buildings, built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Where Italia modular structure was designed to host concerts, Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still performances, meetings and seminars. Open Thurs symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by 8pm-11pm; Fri-Sun Noon-7pm. Full ticket price: €5; Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it now hosts the pavilions Free entry on Thursday. www.fsrr.org. of Lingotto Fiere, the headquarters of major events Via Modane, 16. T: 011 3797600. Off Map including Automotoretrò (www.automotoretro. Allianz Juventus Stadium it) and the International Book Fair; the ‘8 Gallery’ Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, the Allianz GAM - Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e shopping mall, where you can admire the spiral ramp Stadium is the sixth largest stadium in Italy and the Contemporanea that leads to the autodrome (www.8gallery.it) and largest in Piedmont. Better known as the Juventus GAM boasts an extraordinary collection of 45,000 the ‘Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli’, a small Stadium, it is owned by the Juventus Football Club works by renowned 19th and 20th-century Italian art gallery packed with masterpieces. On exiting whose home matches have been played here since and European artists, including Balla, Severini the Pinacoteca you can visit the rooftop test track 2011, the year when the facility was opened. One Boccioni, De Chirico, Dix, Ernst and Klee. Highlights and admire the ‘Bolla’, the bubble-shaped, blue of the most avant-garde, eco-compatible facilities include paintings, sculptures, drawings, installations, glass meeting room. The old Carpano plants, lying in the world, in addition to being one of the two videos and photos, plus one of the most important adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied architectural symbols of modern-day Turin, the collections of video art. In addition to the above, by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. (www.eataly.net). Stadium is one of the city’s major hubs of tourist this must-visit museum offers a fabulous program of Lingotto: Via Nizza, 294. Off Map attraction. The complex also houses Area 12, a major exhibitions by Italian and international artists. The Art Library and the Photographic Archives of shopping mall featuring a hypermarket, shops and MAO - Museo d’Arte Orientale Turin’s Civic Museums are headquartered at GAM. several restaurants. The J-Museum, the first official Opened in 2008, in the 18th century Palazzo Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Monday. football museum of the ‘bianconera’ team is hosted Mazzonis, the museum houses more than 2,000 Museum full ticket price: €10. www.gamtorino.it. inside the east area. www.juventus.com/it/stadium- works from several Asian countries, dating from the Via Magenta, 31. T: 011 4429518. Map C5 e-museum. Corso Gaetano Scirea, 50. T: 899 999897. fourth millennium BC to the 20th century AD. The Off Map J-Museum (Juventus Museum) exhibition space is divided into five different sections featuring exhibits from different areas of Asia Basilica di Superga Located in the Allianz Stadium complex, in the including Southern Asia, China, Japan, the Himalayan Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II as a northwestern area of Turin, the J-Museum is region and Asia’s Islamic countries. Open Tues-Fri thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s dedicated to the history and triumphs of the 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Closed on Monday. deliverance from the French siege of 1706, the Juventus Football Club. Opened in 2012, it is one www.maotorino.it. Palazzo Mazzonis, Basilica is one of the many masterpieces by architect of the world’s best and most innovative sports via San Domenico, 11. T: 011 4436932. Filippo Juvarra, who designed it according to the museums. State-of the-art technology, memorabilia Map E2 style of the era with a colonnaded portico, cloisters and an adrenalin-filled atmosphere offer fans a unique, memorable experience. By purchasing a (the building still houses a friars’ convent) and a Mole Antonelliana combined Museum and Stadium Tour ticket you can dome. Situated on one of the hills surrounding The Mole has been an architectural landmark of the also visit several areas of the Allianz Stadium that Turin and framed by the Alpine mountain range, city since 1889. Named after its creator, architect are generally off-limits to the public. Open from the Basilica dominates the city and offers visitors Alessandro Antonelli, The Mole was purchased by 16 September to 15 March, Mon-Fri 10.30am-6pm; a breathtaking view that is even more stunning the Municipality of Turin and made into a monument Sat-Sun and Holydays 10.30am-7.30pm. Closed on 25 when viewed from the top of the dome (131 steps). of national unity. At the time of its construction it December and every Tuesday (unless matchday). The After visiting the tombs of the Savoy family, the was the highest brick building in Europe, standing Popes’ chamber and the royal apartments, you can walk around the building to see the memorial that A record-breaking museum pays tribute to the ‘Grande Torino’. In 1949, a plane carrying the entire Turin football team on their return TORINO + PIEMONTE CARD Turin’s Egyptian museum, founded in the early 19th century when collecting mummies and Egyptian from an away match crashed into the side of the church, killing all on board. Although the Basilica amulets was a fashionable pastime, is a star of the museum world. By Elena Peverata can be reached by car or public transport, one of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, an original 1934 tram which rattles the 3km ave you heard of Jean-François up by TripAdvisor, it was ranked number one to ancient Egypt (included embalmed animals) up the hillside. Strada Basilica di Superga, 73. Champollion? A French archaeologist among Italy’s most popular museums, ninth from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. T: 011 8997456. Tramway: Piazza Modena, 6. Off Map Hand Egyptologist and the director of in Europe and fourteenth in the world. The If you’re so overwhelmed that you don’t Castello di Rivoli - Museo d’Arte the Egyptian sector of the Louvre in Paris, British newspaper The Times listed it as one of know where to begin your tour, get an audio Contemporanea he is the man who deciphered the mystery the 50 best museums on the planet. Despite its guide. It’s free and allows you to choose and The headquarters of Turin’s Museum of Contemporary Art since 1984, the Castello di of hieroglyphics through the Rosetta Stone longstanding history and historic headquarters personalize your itinerary to suit individual Rivoli, a masterpiece of Baroque art designed in 1822. It is also thanks to Champollion’s – the imposing Palazzo delle Accademia delle requirements. A tip? The Restoration Area by Filippo Juvarra in 1718, is located outside the expertise that we owe the defining statement: Scienze, dating back to the 17th century – the on the first floor that allows visitors to watch city, at the entrance to Val di Susa. The museum “The road to Memphis and Thebes passes museum is extremely modern in terms of both animal mummies being restored. offers a rich collection of works documenting the This card can be purchased online or at Turin’s Tourist Offices. With this pass you get through Turin.” When mentioning Turin, he its layout and immersive visitor experience. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, Mon 9am-2pm. latest artistic trends. Highlights include works by free entry to Turin’s most important museums and exhibitions, castles, fortresses and Sol Lewitt, Richard Long, Michelangelo Pistoletto, was referring to its unique and extraordinary Remodelled by Oscar-winning set designer The ticket office closes one hour before the Transavanguardia, Maurizio Cattelan, Vanessa the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont for 1*, 2, 3 or 5 consecutive days. It also Egyptian Museum, the world’s first Egyptian Dante Ferretti, in 2015, the exhibition space museum. Museum full ticket price: €15. Beecroft, as well as new generation artists. Open offers reduced-price tickets to several other cultural sites in Piedmont, discounts on museum founded in 1824, the second in terms was doubled, following massive renovations, Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on Turin’s main tourist services, plus other benefits. of the value and number of artifacts (around and is now spread over four levels, three above >> Museo Egizio Monday, 1 January, 1 May, 24-25 and 31 December. For more information www.turismotorino.org Full ticket price: €8.50. www.castellodirivoli.org. 40,000) outside of Cairo, and the eighth most ground and one below ground, organized in Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. *The one-day pass is valid for a maximum of three entries to the Turin museum circuit. Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, Rivoli. T: 011 9565280. widely visited museum in Italy. chronological order. Here you’ll find mummies, T: 011 4406903. Off Map It’s so well-known that in a classification drawn tombs, papyrus sheets and everything related www.museoegizio.it .

40 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 41 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

at a height of 167 metres. Built according to eclectic Museum, the Savoy Gallery, Palazzo Chiablese fascinating museum documents one of the most ‘Macchina del Cinema’ (the Movie Machine), an area 19th century architectural techniques, the Mole is and, lastly, the Royal Gardens to be connected. studied objects in human history: the Sindone, the dedicated to the film industry and the ‘Galleria dei EDITOR’S distinguished by its unique shape. Set on a squat Visitors are now able enjoy a unique museum tour, famous ‘Holy Shroud’ a linen cloth which according Manifesti’ (the Poster Gallery). Open 9am-8pm, Sat TIP brick base, the Mole rises through layers of windows comprising a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. of to tradition Christ was wrapped in when deposed 9am-11pm. Closed on Tues Officina della Scrittura and pseudo-Greek columns to a huge ribbed cupola exhibition space and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. from the cross. The museum provides visitors with www.museocinema.it. Mole Antonelliana. Via and a needlelike spire. On the top, a twelve-pointed The origins of the Royal Museums date back to 1563, information about its provenance and history (from Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138560-011 8138561. Map H4 star is silhouetted against the Turinese skyline when Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the second half of the 5th century when it became Museo Nazionale del making the Mole a majestic, unmistakable landmark the capital from Chambéry to Turin. This marked the property of the House of Savoy), as well as Risorgimento Italiano attraction. Inside, a panoramic, glass elevator takes the beginning of a major urban transformation and the various theories and mysteries surrounding it. The museum is dedicated to the historic period visitors on a ride through the roof of the museum’s the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which Other highlights include the objects and paintings of Italian unification in which Turin played a vital vast atrium and up 85 metres inside the tower to the now include artifacts dating from the prehistoric displayed during Public Ostensions (cyclical role. Founded in 1878, the museum has been 360-degree observation platform at the top. The era to the present time. Between the 17th and 18th showings of the Shroud). Open daily 9am-Noon, housed in Palazzo Carignano since 1938 and is a view of Turin and its surrounding Alpine range is centuries, the appearance of the residence, with the 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price: €6. www.sindone.it/ stunning example of Italian Baroque architecture absolutely spectacular. Visitors can also access the imposing Royal Palace at its centre, was expanded museo. Chiesa del SS. Sudario, via San Domenico, and one of Turin’s most important buildings. It panoramic deck on foot by climbing the 573 steps and changed, thanks to the work of several of the 28. T: 011 4365832. Map E2 was used as the House of Deputies of Piedmont’s located inside the cavity of the cupola (by reservation era’s most illustrious architects. A Savoy Residence Parliament between 1848 and 1861. The museum from Monday to Friday, and without reservation until 1865, the Royal Museums are now owned by the Museo Egizio hosts an impressive collection of paintings, printed on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays). Since Italian government. On-site amenities include a food Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian documents, manuscripts and sculptures. At its heart 2000, the Mole Antonelliana has hosted the National court in the former Regia Frutteria. www.museireali. museum in the world and the second in terms of is the ornate circular chamber where Italy’s Subalpine Museum of Cinema. Via Montebello, 20. beniculturali.it. Piazzetta Reale, 1. Map F3 the value and quality of its treasures outside of parliament met; the only example in the world of a T: 011 8138563. Map H4 Cairo. It was founded in 1824, when king Carlo Museo Civico d’Arte Antica Felice of Savoy purchased the collection from art parliamentary room built after the revolution of 1848. Monte dei Cappuccini Founded in 1860, the museum is housed in Palazzo expert Bernardino Drovetti. It is housed inside the Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Monday. Full Located a short distance from the historic centre, Madama, one of the city’s oldest and most beautiful historic Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Scienze, built ticket price: €10. www.museorisorgimentotorino.it. this hill, whose notable features include the convent ‘palazzi’ (see listings). The building features multiple in the 17th century by architect Guarino Guarini. In Piazza Carlo Alberto, 8. T: 011 5621147. Map G4 and church complex of the Capuchin friars, offers a architectural styles, from Roman to the Baroque 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile 360 degree view over the city and its surrounding additions by Filippo Juvarra. The collection – was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 mountains. After a steep climb from the Vittorio featuring masterpieces and priceless objet d’art Dante Ferretti. The exhibition space is spread over and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. Emanuele I bridge, which can also be crossed by car, – includes more than 60,000 works of art, sculptures five floors and houses more than 37,000 artifacts The semi-circular building that hosts the museum, you’ll reach a panoramic square from which you can and decorative arts from the Byzantium age to ranging from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The overlooking the River Po, acts as a prelude to the enjoy a truly stunning view over the city. An absolute the nineteenth century. Open daily 10.00am-6pm. archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular must at sunset. Off Map Closed on Tuesday. Museum full ticket price: €10. Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and The Officina della Scrittura, located in a bookshop and a restaurant-cafeteria, layout designed by François Confinio, the brilliant www.palazzomadamatorino.it . Piazza Castello. Thebes passes through Turin’. Make sure to arm the historic ‘pen district’, is the first which is only open for lunch and offers Swiss French architect who designed the exhibition Musei Reali T: 011 4433501. Map F3 yourself with an audio guide: it’s free and enables space of the Museum of Cinema. www.museoauto.it. museum in Europe dedicated to the a small selection of tantalizing dishes at In 2014, in-depth restorations allowed all the you to tailor the itinerary of your visit according to Corso Unità d’Italia, 40. Off Map art of writing. Founded in 2016 at affordable prices. buildings in the complex, the Royal Palace, the Museo della Sindone your requirements. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, Armoury, the Royal Library, the Archaeological Housed in the crypt of the church of SS. Sudario, this Mon 9am-2pm. Full ticket price: €15. OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni the Aurora Factory, the oldest Italian Self-guided tours of the Officina della www.museoegizio.it. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. From a former rail repair workshop to a new manufacturers of fountain pens, the Scrittura take approximately one hour, T: 011 4406903. Map F4 hub of contemporary culture and innovation. museum offers visitors a tour featuring while guided factory tours last for 45 Opened in 2017, following a major renovation, this Museo Lavazza a blend of tradition and technology. minutes. Tours of the museum and factory majestic, late 19th century industrial complex in Lavazza is one of the most famous and oldest brands Interactive screens and avant-garde are available in English for foreign visitors. the heart of Turin has become a meeting place of Italian coffee. During its 120 years in the industry, for contemporary culture. The venue hosts a rich writing instruments are interspersed it has marked the history of Italy’s coffee culture with program of exhibitions, performances, concerts with typewriters and fountain pens that www.officinadellascrittura.it advertisements and celebrities that have become an – both classical and electronic – as well as events integral part of its public image. The museum uses a tell the story of Turin’s important role Strada da Bertolla all’Abbadia di Stura, dedicated to theatre, dance and the performing arts. circular route to focus on its creative collaborations in the information revolution. 200 (20 minutes from the city centre). Other initiatives include workshops, start-ups and and famous advertising campaigns and to explore presentations. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm; Fri 11am- Even if you’re not staying nearby, the T: 011 0343090. everything related to Lavazza’s history and coffee 8pm. www.ogrtorino.it. Corso Castelfidardo, 22. Officina della Scrittura production. In order to access the museum’s T: 011 4365832. Map G4 numerous interactive sections, visitors are provided is located just 20 with a Lavazza espresso cup at the entrance. This Palazzo Madama minutes by car, and iconic object is designed to activate the installations Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, this one hour by bus, and unlock multimedia content across the museum. marvellous ‘palazzo’ has always been a reference from the centre Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm (last admission 5.30pm). point in the city. An eastern gateway for Augusta of town, and is Closed on 15 August. Full ticket price: 10 €. museo. Taurinorum in Roman times, a fortified Medieval well worth a lavazza.com. Via Bologna, 32A. T: 011 2179621. castle, and later the residence of the Acaja Princes, Map H1 its name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of visit. This is France who lived here in 1600, before a second a unique Museo Nazionale del Cinema ‘Madame Royale’, Marie Jeanne Baptiste of Savoy The National Museum of Cinema, housed in the experience Nemours, took up residence here in 1675. In 1848, Mole Antonelliana, is one of the world’s most that will the palace became the headquarters of the first important film museums. Featuring a unique, Subalpine Senate before being transformed into appeal vertical layout, this ‘temple of cinema’ spirals the cultural and artistic centre that we know today. to both upwards through several exhibition levels, creating The eminent architect Filippo Juvarra designed a spectacular display of its extraordinary collections adults and its magnificent white stone Baroque façade and through an evocative, interactive itinerary. In addition children. staircase. Don’t miss the view over piazza Castello to a vast film library containing more than 7,000 At the end and the city from the palace’s Panoramic Tower. If titles, the museum offers collections dedicated to you need a break, head to the cafè on the first floor of the tour, PALAZZO CARIGNANO the archaeology of cinema, the ‘Aula del Tempio’ offering a breathtaking view over piazza Castello. you’ll find an (Temple Room), the focal heart of the museum, with A stunning example of Italian Baroque architecture, it is a part of the Royal Savoy Residences www.palazzomadamatorino.it. Piazza Castello. areas dedicated to the great genres of cinematic Aurora and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Palace hosts two museums, the Apartments of the T: 011 5211788/4433501. Map F3/G3 sales Carignano Princes and the National Museum of the Risorgimento. Its elliptically-shaped hall history. Don’t miss the ‘Rampa’ (the Ramp) which, like a movie, unfolds to reveal the dome, offering a was used to host united Italy’s first parliament. www.museorisorgimentotorino.it Parco del Valentino point, breathtaking view over the museum from above, the Located on the banks of the River Po, this is the city’s

42 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 43 | MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING ATTRACTIONS ESSENTIALS largest and most popular park. Spread over a surface of late Fiat head Giovanni Agnelli and his wife area of 550,000 sq.m, the park’s interior houses Marella. Here you can admire a unique collection numerous treasures including the Castello del of seven paintings by Matisse, a 1913 painting by Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site, now home Balla dedicated to the theme of speed, as well as to the Politecnico di Torino’s faculty of architecture; masterpieces by Severini, Modigliani and Tiepolo. Musei Reali the Medieval Village and Castle, faithful 19th century The collection also includes works by Canaletto, A Savoy residence until 1865, Turin’s Royal reconstructions based on the model of Piedmont Bellotto, Picasso, Renoir, Manet and Cano. In Museums are one of the largest and most and Valdostano castles, and the Botanical Gardens, addition to temporary exhibitions, the Pinacoteca diverse museum complexes in Europe. established in 1729 for educational purposes and hosts a centre for art education, a reference library, The sheer size of the complex and collections open to the public since 1995. Tactile tours of the offices and a bookshop. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm housed therein easily rival those of other facility for blind or partially sighted visitors are (last entrance 6.15pm). Closed on Monday and on 24 major European royal residences. A unique also available. Starting from Ponte Umberto I, you and 25 December. Open 10am-3pm on 31 December tour devoted to history, art and nature, can walk or cycle along the river, or stroll along and 3pm-7pm on 1 January. Full ticket price comprising a 3km route of exhibition spaces the park’s paths. The park is always open, but the (Permanent Collection + Temporary Exhibition): €10. and seven hectares of gardens. Castello del Valentino is not open to the public. The www.pinacoteca-agnelli.it. Entrance: Lingotto ‘8 Botanical Gardens can be visited from mid-April to Gallery’. Via Nizza, 230/103. T: 011 0062713. mid-October. Together with the Reggia di Venaria, Off Map ARMERIA REALE - More than 5,000 Villa della Regina, Castello di Moncalieri, Palazzina objects dating from the Prehistoric era to the di Caccia di Stupinigi and Castello di Rivoli, the Santuario della Consolata 20th century, one of whose most important Castello del Valentino is a part of the circuit of the This sanctuary stands on the site of the old Church of sections comprises an impressive collection Sant’Andrea, of which only the bell tower remains. Its Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO of 16th century arms and amour. hexagonal plan was introduced by Guarino Guarini world heritage site (www.residenzereali.it). The park BIBLIOTECA REALE – One of the city’s sometimes hosts events such as ‘Terra Madre-Salone between 1678 and 1704, and was based on the model of a rectangular Romanesque chapel. Other most important cultural institutions, del Gusto’ (Mother Earth Tasting Festival www. it houses over 200,000 books, antique salonedelgusto.com or the ‘Salone dell’Automobile’ additions to the sanctuary were made by illustrious maps, engravings and drawings, including (Turin Car Show) www.parcovalentino.com. Park: architects including Filippo Juvarra, who built the Corso Massimo D’Azeglio / Valentino Castle: Viale altar, and Carlo Ceppi who designed several of its Leonardo da Vinci’s famous ‘Self Portrait’. Mattioli, 39 / Town and Medieval Castle: Viale Virgilio, chapels. Particularly noteworthy is the people’s CAPPELLA DELLA SINDONE – Recently 107 / Botanical Gardens: Viale Mattioli, 25. devotion to the icon of Our Lady of Consolation: the re-opened after a long and complex Map G7 collection of ex-votives dedicated to the Virgin is restoration, until the 1990s, the chapel, a absolutely amazing. Once inside, make sure to visit Baroque masterpiece, housed the Sindone, Piazza San Carlo the Room of St. Andrew and the Chapel of Graces. Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, piazza www.laconsolata.org .Piazza della Consolata. now preserved in the Cathedral of Turin. San Carlo was commissioned by Marie Christine T: 011 4836111. Map E2 GALLERIA SABAUDA - Spread over of France in true Parisian style. It is a rectangle of four levels of exhibition space, the gallery perfect proportions with an equestrian statue – Teatro Regio showcases approximately 500 masterpieces the so-called ‘Caval’d Brons’ - of Duke Emanuele Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II and designed by Italian, Dutch, Flemish and European by Filippo Juvarra, the Teatro Regio was inaugurated Filiberto of Savoy at its centre and on its southern artists displayed in chronological order from side, facing the Porta Nuova Station, a twin pair of in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the the 14th to 20th centuries. Baroque churches, San Carlo and Santa Christina. GIARDINI REALI - Extending over The former was built in 1639 based on a project by only part of the original building that still remains approximately seven hectares of land, architect Amedeo di Castellamonte, while building is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. on the latter began in 1619 (its façade was designed Its unusual gated access from Piazza Castello, a and located in the centre of the city, these by Juvarra and dates back to 1715). Piazza San Carlo ‘bronze gate’ named Odissea Musicale (Musical beautiful gardens testify to the city’s history is flanked by seemingly endless elegant porticoes Odyssey) is a work by famous artist-sculptor Umberto and former opulent splendour. Due to housing big-name fashion boutiques. The square is Mastroianni. The Regio is one of the most important ongoing renovations, today only a portion of located in the middle of the partly pedestrianized Italian theatres on the European scene, and offers an the garden are open for public viewing. action-packed program of opera, ballet, symphony arterial road of via Roma which, with its arcaded MUSEO DI ANTICHITÀ - The most shops and cafés, connects the Station of Porta concerts and other cultural activities. Turin, the city of the Alps www.teatroregio.torino.it. Piazza Castello, 215. important archaeological finds unearthed Nuova to piazza Castello. Piazza San Carlo is home in the city and throughout Piedmont are The first capital of Italy, is a ‘drawing room city’ of elegant porticoes surrounded by green hills and, further to several of the city’s best-known cafés and pastry T: 011 88151. Map F3/G3 housed in the new underground space lying shops. Make sure to try the blends on offer at Villa della Regina afield, by majestic mountains. This is Turin, a city renowned for its history, culture and natural beauties. Caffè San Carlo, the pastries of Caffè Torino or the adjacent to the ruins of the Roman Theatre. The summer country residence of the House of PALAZZO REALE - Majestic staircases, chocolates and candies of Stratta. Map F4 Savoy was built at the beginning of the 17th century lavishly decorated rooms, carved ceilings, as the court vineyard of Prince-Cardinal Maurizio urin was a Roman colony, the first and its elegant squares have given Turin the system, extends for 13.2km and only includes Piazza Vittorio Veneto stuccoes, delicately gilded furniture and and Princess Ludovica. It later became known as capital of Italy and an industrial city. nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city. one line that connects the commune of Designed so that the king could access Piazza frescoes. An impressive feat of significant Vittorio from Piazza Castello, via Po is one of Turin’s Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when From its origins to the present time, With the exception of a few streets in the Collegno to the Torino Porta Nuova railway King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future bride artistic and architectural value, and the T most historic streets. After strolling under its Turin has had several different incarnations, centre, which are off-limits to traffic (including station (the city’s main railway hub) and the porticoes that house numerous shops and cafés, in 1714, and remained a royal residence until the 19th official residence of the Savoy family until each of which has left profound traces in its the Quadrilatero Romano and its shopping Torino Porta Susa station, before reaching the you’ll be delighted to find yourself in Piazza Vittorio century. After lengthy restorations it was returned 1865, the Royal Palace was expanded and Veneto, the city’s largest square, which opens to to its original splendour. Don’t miss a visit to this changed thanks to the work of several of architecture and urban layout. Extending streets), the remainder of the city is open Lingotto Fiere terminus. encompass a view over the River Po. The square ends magnificent residence where, in addition to admiring Turin’s most illustrious architects and artists over a surface area of less than 150 square to traffic and most landmark attractions are Turin boasts an enviable geographic position. the remains of its original 18th century decorations at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, which connects between the 18th and 19th centuries. kilometers, crossed by the Po, the longest easily accessible by car. However, beware of It is surrounded by green hills that stand and furnishings, you can stroll through its Italianate it to the square of the church of the Gran Madre di PALAZZO CHIABLESE - The rooms river in Italy, Turin is characterized by a access regulation ‘ZTL Centrale’, which is active 715 metres above sea level, and which, in Dio, renowned for its pantheon-like shape, and the gardens, amidst stairs, fountains, panoramic views on the ground floor of Palazzo Chiablese, checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes Oltrepò and Collina districts. Map H5 and areas of cultivated land. The Villa can be Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30am and prohibits the addition to their natural beauty, also offer reached by car or public transport. Together with the an 18th century building that, over the getting your bearings easy. circulation of private vehicles and parking numerous cultural and historical attractions. Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli Reggia di Venaria, Castello del Valentino, Castello centuries, was used as a residence for One of the city’s most distinctive architectural in the centre of the city. This restriction does They can be reached in just a few minutes Archistar Renzo Piano designed what he referred to di Moncalieri, Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi and members of the Savoy family, house features is its 18km of porticoes – mostly not, however, apply to taxis or chauffer driven by public transport, the Sassi-Superga tram as a ‘treasure trove’, a captivating space located on Castello di Rivoli, Villa della Regina is a part of the temporary exhibitions of the Royal the rooftop of Turin’s Lingotto building, formerly the the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Museums. located in the city centre – which house shops hired cars. As an alternative, you can use public or car. Turin is also an ideal base to reach headquarters of the first Fiat (now FCA) automotive Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site and cafes. Its porticoes, originally designed to transport to get around the city. These include several of Europe’s most renowned ski resorts. factory. This intimate gallery hosts a permanent (www.residenzereali.it). Strada Comunale Santa offer shade in the summer and shelter from the buses, trams and the subway (metropolitana). It is therefore not surprising that the city is exhibition showcasing the personal collection Margherita, 79. T: 011 8194484. Off Map rain, snow, and sometimes the wind in winter, The ‘metropolitana’, a fully automated subway described as the ‘Capital of the Alps’.

44 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 45 I LL E R RCE A VE S O O RS BRENT A T ORE C C E O

ULI

O E ND S T R A D A D RU D I D D I R U E N D A D A O S T R

BERGER A C

O V

Allianz Stadium R

O E IN R V A O S NS A C E C O R S O S O G R O S S E T O I A V ULI GI C O R S O G R O S S O E T O S R

C C O R S O G R O S S E T O C O R S O G R O S S E T O

V I A B O BOR GO V I T T O R I A T T I C E L L I

V I

E I A R L A B L S O T T IC E L L E C O C REGIO R C E

V R R E G IN A M A OG A L O S B O

C E R S O

O R A C A O R S O N R O T T O ON S O R N E G H R O S A V E I D R I I V A A S E R I D R C P A A O A T N TO R A O A E A S R I Z T EC R A N M L I O C E A Z OI I PE ELL A N V D U G A L BI I A A O A SV C U R B D E C OL S O E B R IA I N L A O S V O C H S F O G I VI C V O O OR I A O R I C O R S T I C PRINCI P G OM H RS O E A P P S A I N RS C I C O A O R O I E C L O R O O A U D I C O V S V I A S E R O ROV CO V V A I S C O C S O C V O O C O A I A O I R R R S O A C I A M R E G IN A M A S A I R I P R A V V R R T B A O ELL E I R O ' N A E S C D R CO E S U M B F O

BI R E I A V O A

A A A V N N AS IA I A C I G C P G

A E O ESI C V V O IA S A V S O I A C C O L R RA S S Giardino C OL R C I O L A V B E A Marino E R S E O I G H I NN I R C A Ferraro E A E A I C ' R I N A S S V R VI R S

N I A P I E T E V RN San Pietro in Vincoli O IA O C R I V O I B R C R I T E C A MPI DOGLIO T ON IN A S O I O D V A IS ALE FRA V B D I OTT I T R N T A E S C DR S D O E D V IA R I I P A R I L O A O O R M IA V I A O O SAN DO N A T O RIA D RL L ARGO V C

O O A A V AU Basilica di Maria Ausiliatrice N C I N SI O B RESCIA A V A A D I LI G GI O A R A U R O R A V E N U Ex Scalo Vanchiglia T T I G H C ORSO A B C D E F R A R R E R I L I N E R A C I A O O E S G P A A R C B O A P S S T I P E V E V I A R OL I I O P I A ZZA P I A B V V Lavazza I A EG M ARI A N A O VIT P A A R T I A V INCIP AUS I L I AT R I C E S O Nuvola I V A R C D O AP N V I N C E N IO SO V A A 14 Reggia di 12 Juventus I I R R A N CES O R S O S V D I . GI RE V O R Z P IS C Venaria StadiumO USE Chiesa di S. Gioachino A A A M Piccola Casa della N A R PPE O Divina Provvidenza I O G R I A E O C M I G L I P I A ZZA BEN Cottolengo L N

C A E EDE V E D E LLA T A O S T I E T T O I Z V L I F ORCA C M R O R O V O E GIU D P ARELLA Z T V 1 R 1 E TTO I O I I M A A

OS L E N V C A A O R M V I A E O P O R RI N O S O L O A CO S G M . A CC I C H I O S D S ENI . O R A R I AI A Turin Map . S O O S G E A L A Cimitero Monumentale di Torino R U R R N GI E P L E C C A A E G O R G V I P A A

E . O R O I P V C D A C O O GLI L E G I A . F A O I U A S INCI I C C V N V P R V EBB S A P O N C. C IA R O I A G S A A A V R R S MONT RS I F IR R O C O L M CO N Anagrafe M V T O A O V O C D C H A R G H E R I V I A CO O M I A C O RSO A R P A O A C A R L R P O I DA Centro Palatino A C C O X I A C N L Pala Fuksas A R R V H ESI O O S M I O R S O I A S R A A S A I E R G A P A N I A R M L P L V V I A T O C A Z I A V I O A E RI C S A O Mercato O I N B V A P I A ZZA N A G Alimentare T A R T I V COR N EG I U A C H T U L IA GI A O A DO A P I A ZZA A R V N S H S TATUTO I O AN A I A Mercato FR I N A A C SO R A SO O T R A OL PIAZZA DELL A NC S A A T E PIAZ Z A Santuario Ittico ESCO R S I C COR R S E E V E C V E L A MANUELE L O O della Consolata N IA R EPU B B LIC A FI U I O VI C M O A SA Museo della B O N A R FA FILIBERTO CH I ONE C E G SO R N BER NINI A P I A ZZA C N R TT V GG S NCI D CON Mercato O R O O R I F RA O O O N O E O ME Sindone L RS S TATUTO Alimentare S D L A PIAZ Z A CO V N E I O CO D IA IC L R O V R D C A E O L R E OR D L A O I A L A E Chiesa di E E G I A E L A CAD NCI I D D F RA CAR IN S O Santa Chiara F O EL T A

RIVOLI RS N R O R 2 P 2 O CO A D I MI D I S A R A C ORSO N I RAZI R PIAZZETTA V O M E O E E Chiesa di I S NZ G A A N E E DELLA o IR I A I Sant’Agostino AG VIA t R Z A GLI F V A VISITAZIONE r L RA C V G E A O RA NCI A T’ S e H UNG D F . b O A O N C G RS A E V I CO San Giovanni m UN A R I L AR P I A ZZA Z C Basilica ORS Chiesa del Battista V HIA U Porta Palatina I T O A P RR IA SA Z a Carmine IA R Mauriziana i A M R I LU Giardino r V A DO C VIA A NA NGO O S A V O I A N E le R IE DO I D Jan Palach l V O ORA S RA A a R O N D Ò RA I DO O D VO TE V I O Chiesa di Museo di Antichità A D GHER R ANCI ME LL V G LUNG A L F E SO C L A VI N San Domenico I A OR A I E R IVELL A S P N O C I G C D I O R C Museo O IEN A A G STR I U O E R EL R di Arte Orientale B O L B S E P T L A M C EL E E . A SO V I F N B A Area Archeologica C S GH D’ A O OR P E . C A A A del Teatro Romano O R O P S I R I A N N AL G PEL G LA L A ANCI I T O A I N S F R V I T T Chiesa di L C IE S O E R S SO P O A A S C OR N IO I B San Dalmazzo I MI Galleria Sabauda A O A I R AN O L D V O T B R A U ci C D I C A NTON C IT TORINO S E I O T O I R O Comunali O R G T V C N Campus Luigi Einaudi O O T O R LU A S L A LARGO E Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista D R I A SO R N OR O P V O A IA QUATTR R S O S Chiesa del NCI C R O MARZO O A M QUATTRO T O A C O O P R O SO FR O Municipio di Torino B R Santissimo R OR R O A A O C A I E AN S O T E G I Nome Di Gesù V E M V MARZO M 3 T O N I O F O N I S S A C S A E Giardini Reali Superiori N N P C E N P LZ I G A T A A R I Basilica Corpus Domini C CTI U S T Palazzo N M I A A O A N A I VI A E E V A O V N U AR P Chiablese Palazzo Reale di Torino I A R Chiesa dei Santi Martiri S A P V I S G R I O R E O A N H G N O A M A EL R O B O B O T E S O E G S O A R B A N SO S ZZ R I U XX I G I U I L E ER A S. Rocco T I N OR UNG A O B C R A S E P U L A L G N V A I MA I I A M Santuario di R O A L T 3 P E A Real Chiesa di San Lorenzo R Z I C 3 L M G MA Santa Maria U I V ANCHI GLI A V ANCHI GLI E T T A I A X L ARG O E CO A OM A A L I F di Piazza A I G V N T I S T A Chiesa SS. Trinita IE PA D A V T R M M ONTE B E L L O R R O O I I N O O N Z B O A I A O I Chiesa di N A O L V Stazione E O Z D AN A L D I E San Francesco D'Assisi M O O A OC S AN I I I S Porta L B C R L V V S P L E A E LLE I V I A L E PIAZ Z A A R A R PIA Z Z A E L D Susa LI T E M V AN VI O E A U I SR Giardino Andrea Guglielminetti B O O I T A RSO A L I EB A O P CUCC A N T M CAS TELL O N R ZAGLI Giardino V T C A O RR F. E E G V I A D RIANO G . N RI V E S N Lamarmora D O O I O A I A C A I G P 4 T A O BR I TE Mastio della Cittadella I Palazzo M I S R A A E 7 I VI R S F L I T M G A E OT C À I C O VI IA N B A A R I V E I O R Madama V T T O N I O F O N I SO C T N LU A V E I L S N Torre Littoria R Tribunale di Torino SO R A T Teatro Regio A G B O I C GH R M I C C I N E O I O R N I ETRO SS V I U T A I A P O I A E G I C O V I Auditorium Rai V L I I A A N Chiesa di S T O I A T A A V NO I OR M T A U C San Tommaso V N IO R T A A A Giardino O C V O MAS XX O R Z . ’ LL O R UNI M Nicola B V N M A A A I S. Giuseppe R A . V T Grosa S AN ANT E NT B R I A G A I G A A E I E C O F TO I I AS H L OC ON A S L N I CHINO E V G F LZ I O V V R NEL MONTE OR O O I U GU O R IA I Grattacielo Intesa Sanpaolo M C Galleria Chiesa di Santa Giulia EU C S V CHE T NT S E OA 1 A A C S V Teatro Carignano Subalpina IA O C IA P O C A V P E V MI E P O I I V ANT I A V V Teatro Stabile N C I A V I G I CE C E I IA O V S A N O PIAZZA A R O O B O A UNGO N S N V E R V IO P I A ZZA L E S S P ACCONIG I T T O A IO A Mole Antonelliana D E V L S N CARIGNANO A I B R E P VI A E R E G I N A A T E D Teatro Gobetti R RA A Galleria S. Federico R I G L I C S S I TPalazzo Carignano B NAP R F T E R OL M ARG HERI TA C A O R P I A ZZA V Chiesa di T O Museo Nazionale del Cinema E S A Museo Nazionale T A I O E I L A I 4N Santa Teresa D'Avila A 4 CO S O L FERINO S S T R 13 O N del Risorgimento Italiano A Museo I L T V R V Superga A E A E E I S T I S PIAZZA A A B A

R M Egizio I C 2 Biblioteca Radio Rai Palazzo I S I CENI S I A Museo della Radio EB L A L Ponte Regina Margherita L F A E O O A VI CARLO L A 9 Nazionale T Nuovo G N B E N U E R V e della Televisione C S O I Chiesa di Universitaria Chiesa I T O AV COR VI TT ALBERTO San Francesco N O R A O Museo del Carcere Le Nuove VI OR San Filippo Neri CH M A IO da Paola Dipartimento di Filosoa G L E S L E R 8 N A I A . A MO G L EMBR V U T T A FI e Scienze dell'Educazione S O A ’ MACCHI SA RS R I N E V V A L I D R I A A A E E I P I A ZZA B A LO POZZ O STR A D A O TT I V O O C A I O T T A O L A F L M A R I L I I Z O E V A RS B A O S A V IO O C I N N S S A N CARL O G NICC Copyright Where Italia srl. © 2018. Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.org Italia Urban Map © 2018. Original File by Where srl. Copyright CO I E Chiesa dell’Immacolata A A I U I E V EB PO F Concezione S I T T O P V I S N S O R VI O E C A N R X X Piazzale Aldo Moro P U N MAGEN A Chiesa della P E O T A A E UNG ’ R V L C I P SS. Annunziata NU L A I A P M A E R L Chiesa di A A TA A V V E I I IA D E San Carlo Borromeo O D O E O R IN R V ON I V E D VIA D I L T C I U P L’ C OGR - O cine Grandi Riparazioni A S I Z C O R R P E R Z I C Chiesa di Santa Cristina VI I E PROND A A V P I A ZZA E NAP E V A ES A M Z R I C O A O INCE UMB C V I PIAZZA A A V O CLN E I S V E A LB NC D I N U O AD E LI V LL ZO A O RD O G G CARLO O G V E Chiesa della A I A R E V L N O R LA R V HI E S O R Visitazione O A A F DA I T T O C I N N EMANUELE II D R O . B T N Parco AL A V FI C O L I L E T R LARGO VITTORIO S A L EN Ignazio S V I E VI O A ET R G I V V A R R S AG G P I A ZZA S EL MAGEN M B O V Michelotti I AI M A A A A HC S A I O EMANUELE II O A L L V I IA A A G U IDO NO I I A C A F I . O C T T V M T ST E RS M GO O B E N T I V I M A R . O I G O Z Z A N O A G R . Chiesa Ortodossa M UI O A A P P G L Q M I T A S I E C T rumena di Santa Croce I S A O VI N V A GI A A P R S A I E Camera di commercio di Torino T A CO I I C R I R S A N 5 O T T VI V 5 E D S V N U R P I A ZZA A T O INCE U V I T T O T I C A Chiesa di Santa Pelagia CO E V OR A I A I N P L I A VITTORI O Z E E A N T I L R E E O . A I I V L V A B I DEGLI E S G N M L E O VEN E T O A E Teatro Vittoria N E R CORSO C O R A I I I O G I LI I O S P Madonna degli Angeli I C V R V O RI A R P I V T A EMBR A A C L T ’ T M A S O E V A COR L L S C I A C A Politecnico di Torino S O TT C S A A N R VI A L O PIAZZA I V O O MAGEN E V E I U M M R RA D . PIETRO S S R A V A A T A A PALEOCAPA GIU R I Chiesa Ortodossa russa di San Massimo R I T I VI M AR I A A A O V I T I A X X V San Michele ArcangeVl Io P I A ZZA HE R M A D A E ASI A V TI T C A COR U N I T G CUCC ET VI I O S F PIAZZA V O O VIA A T N N R I RO I A A PIAZZA PIAZZA PIAZZA DO N I A CARLO LAGRANGE A L E G I FO VI A BODONI ELL A M M Conservatorio CAVOUR O S ONT A FELICE Statale di Musica Giardino Aiuola Balbo L I Ponte Vittorio Emanuele I O EO GEN T T N M E T "Giuseppe Verdi" I I VECCHI A NT Politecnico di Torino MASS V I IL Chiesa di San Secondo Martire I A U O C O Q A L V G IU S C IA R O A ASI S O A R E I E P P V CO Z S O VI TT V I A Chiesa Gran Madre Di Dio A A E I A PIAZZALE G C Z S N D A R O M A Z Chiesa di San Massimo E V O MONTE T A A CCH I DUCA D’AOSTA D A M IL U I A T I R Z IN R Stazione di Torino L S 6 E L 6 U N I S I E CO ON R O M O C O see pages 6-7 C Porta Nuova O RS T A O Top in Town E I E O S C OL R A V S O S D IA I A UC L S L E N P CC GNAN N A A V O AIRO 1 D OR 11 O V A I T T O L MOLE ANTONELLIANA 6 VILLA DELLA REGINA O MUSEO NAZIONALEIA DELL’AUTOMOBILE AN I ’ SA A R R C V V Z OS C ODOL I O B O T A T O R S A FO I Z R L R R M A I L C COR O ON O E E O T VI E E EVE A G V E D I V V I A I 2 L 7 IA IA 12 C N I S Tempio Valdese M O V C VI A L EGYPTIAN MUSEUM TEATRO REGIOAL PAST ALLIANZB JUVENTUS STADIUM H Comunità A di Torino U E IO N A N U R RAN GG RE P VI S N I G I IO NG Ebraica R IM BOR G O ER O R A E U VIA di Torino O L E A I Chiesa di IT E IN A L E O NCA D I G San Giovanni EN 3 8 13 U M NAN V V Evangelista I P ROYAL MUSEUMS VIA PO PROMENADE BASILICA DI SUPERGA I A I C O A O ME Z B . I G U A L L M A D EN 6 S AN P A O L O Z S I L I RE A ETT R R I B EL 4 9 14 O O CORSO PALAZZO MADAMA PIAZZA SAN CARLO REGGIA DIMAS VENARIA PIAZZA T I 5 GI

MADAMA SO L

BRU CS S O O CRISTINA 7 V IA 7 V IA V Z G PARCO DEL IA V A 10 GO 15 AL N O 5 E VALENTINO PARCO DEL VALENTINO LINGOTTO VE PALAZZINAGG DIE CACCIA DI STUPINIGI E RN OR IO COR H I OL Z S O NC C I L V Museo I 10 R 11 Lingotto ’A

G O dell’AutomobileD D I U G A I V IA O VI V E A ND C Parco G O 15 OVE O R S C C O C R OCE T T A RNO O F IU D Stupinigi C L 46 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 O O SE M www.wheretraveler.com 47

R E O S N IM O C A B C A D OE R S O F G H I G S S L E O R A

E E RS M A G U G L I N N IA O N V I A L O O O O R S

S R E R C O L M M A S P O E M

C T M O O I E M A D IL O

E L N I Z Z N E R R E C S M R O N

O I

S S PIAZZA O OR R A

O T MARMOLADA RI C C R VI

A A I RA BE V S IA R M EN TOM S AN SAL V A R I O Castello del Valentino S M E ASO U VA LPER U MAS GA C O F C C A I E LU R SO S O C A R L O

A N IA R V EO R E

I IL SO R E R S L N E

O L L O R A C G O O O S S D E S I O L L O I I S R U O L

O G G OR

U C A A L I G H I E C R I A

I ETIC I N I Z Z S V O I S A

N O E

E N VI S

O UNIO O O C N O O S P D A R I S S U A CO C O R G RB S O O B R A M A N T

A O E I RS

V CO I L

EL V

A N

E AGN G

MIR AFIORI NORD A IETIC I

NNI V OV A O V S N O E A I S S G A RB O O U N I O N RS O O O S O A C RS COR O PIA ZZA IC A A RUN C A S Z I B V P O LONIA R O

O IN Z Eataly Torino N I Z C

A N O G E N NTIMIGLIOspedale Regina Margherita O D A I

VE I N O I A V

O RS Z N V A O I SA V S C A B V I A Pinacoteca Giovanni R e Marella Agnelli

O V I A G I O R O S R Lingotto CO A Museo dell'Automobile di Torino C A VOR E T T O SOTTO LINGO T T O PA SS AGGIO O LING P OVIETIC A O A TT V S O O

I G E N

I NTIMIGLI LL U N I O N E V VE O Lingotto Fiere

A I RS V A AGNE O I

C AL

I NNI ' I A D V VI Ex Area Fiat Avio Lubricanti À O Stazione Torino Lingotto

GI IO

UNIT

P O NIZ Z A O C S RS O R S V I A O M I LLEFONTI

O COR C T R A IA N Torre Regione Piemonte

O A

Z Palavela

N I Z

V A A I O

V Giardino Corpo Italiano di Liberazione G E N

A I C A O V NTIMIGLI R S

O VE ALI I T T I R A I A I I V V A N D ' O A O

N E GN A PI

Palazzo del Lavoro UNITÀ

V OVIETIC SO

R MIR A FIORI SUD S Z VIA O CO AI . VIG LIAN L I E V I A O N O R A T O V I G CORS L I A N I P I AZZA O DU S U N I O N E F RAT O B E NGASI . ROSS E RS LLI D O C I

N I R A I V P O

E O

M A

A 5

5 U N

L E

A E

R C E R A I RO

O T R

M E

R OVIETIC E I

S VIA S

U N I O N E O

RS O C

BORGARE T T O T

O A IN GN R

O E T O N IN R Z E I TO A

AL L I V E IA V S N I CHELI N O DU O

C O O

T I D P R S

O B O G I N A I RO T R V I E

O N I S T E O M O N C ALI E R I O IN R IN A R 5 T O 5 A T O VI

AL I V STUPINIGI

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi

500 m ESSENTIALS

Emergency Your personal travel assistant now in the 112 > European Emergency Number created best hotels in Turin! to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police. PASSPORTS Questura Centrale di Torino, Corso Vinzaglio, 10. T: 011 55881 www.questure. poliziadistato.it/torino Taxi FREE FREE HOTSPOT In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special CALLS INTERNET WIFI taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be requested by phone. Main taxi parking Via Nizza (Porta Nuova Station), Corso Bolzano (Porta Susa Station), Piazza Castello, Piazza CLN HOTEL INFO CITY TICKETS & TAXI TORINO T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi.it : app available for iOS and Android, & SERVICES GUIDE by EVENTS it has more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers. Taxi fares Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin – Caselle Airport section starting from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). If the amount on the taximeter is less than €34 or €39 you’ll pay the amount of the taximeter. Trains The most important railway station is Porta Nuova, in the central Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 58; regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Turin offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Milan: 1 hour • Bologna: 2 hours 20 min • Florence: 2 hours 55 min • Venice: 3 hours 35 min • Rome: 4 hours 30 min • Naples: 5 hours 30 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www. trenitalia.com. ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. www.italotreno.it. Airports AEROPORTO INTERNAZIONALE DI TORINO CASELLE “SANDRO PERTINI” (TRN) - (16 km Getting around Turin Tourist Information from the centre of Turin). The airport, to the North of Turin, is easily reachable in 25 minutes by car GTT – Gruppo Torinese Trasporti/Local Public TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza Carlo thanks to the Turin-Caselle motorway junction. Transport Company - www.gtt.to.it Felice, in front of Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 535181 Information desk T: 011 5676361-2. Infoline Mon-Sat 6.30am-7.30pm. Green Line T: 800 Open daily 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm. www.aeroportoditorino.it 019152; from mobile (Toll Number): T: 011 0672000. TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza Castello • Connections to the airport GTT Info Point and ticket - Railway Station Torino corner of Via Garibaldi. T: 011 535181. Open daily Sadem (www.sadem.it) from Porta Nuova Station. Porta Nuova, in front of the track 20. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm. Every 15-30 min, travel time approx. 45’. One-way 7.15am-7pm. Sat, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. ticket: €6,50 - round trip ticket: €12. Lost and Found on GTT vehicles: Via Meucci 4. Special Tours Mon, Wed, Thurs, 9am-12am. T: 011 4430753. . Sadem provides a shuttle service also from Turin to Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus CITYSIGHTSEEING TORINO HOP ON-HOP OFF Milano Malpensa airport. or the tram.Ordinary ticket (€1.70) valid for 100 Hallmark red double-decker bus offering 3 routes: minutes on buses, trams or metro. Line A to explore the city center and the hill; AEROPORTO DI CUNEO LEVALDIGI (CUF) - (65 ZTL informations – Visitors traveling with their Line B to get to sites as the Automobile Museum, km from the centre of Turin). Information T: 0172 own car and staying in a hotel in the central the Lingotto, the Pinacoteca Agnelli, Eataly, the 741500 – 558. www.aeroporto.cuneo.it area can enter the ZTL for the day of arrival Olympic sites and the Officine Grandi Riparazioni; • Connections to the airport from Turin Lingotto and departure only, filling out a form at the Line C for Allianz Stadium, Reggia di Venaria and Station hotel reception (ask your concierge for more La Mandria Castle. BMC Bus - Shuttle service available in connection information). In the same way it is possible to reach 8 language commentary. Ticket valid 24h (48h if with departure and arrival of flights. €8 each way, paid public parking areas within the LTZ by filling you combine 3 lines). Combo tickets for top Turin we recommend buy ticket online. in the same parking lot with the request for transit attractions are also available. www.manetmobile.com www.aeroportocuneo.it authorization no later than 11am. www.city-sightseeing.it/en/turin. [email protected] 48 WHERE TURIN I OCTOBER 2018 Turin Via Roma, 290

BARI - BOLOGNA - CATANIA - FIUMICINO - LECCE - LUGANO - MALPENSA MANTUA - MILAN - PADUA - TAORMINA - VENICE

Rocca is the only high-end Italian jewellery and watch-making company that has distributed and proposed, for over 200 years, the most esteemed Brands in its Boutiques, in compliance with the concessions.