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INSPIRATIONAL WINE KNOWLEDGE AND THE PEOPLE BEHIND THE DRINK May INTERNATIONAL 2010 Concours Mondial PAGE 24 The Emigrants Part 2 PAGE 27 Domaine Duseigneur PAGE 31 INNEHÅLL > PAGE 4 Fréderic Brochet at Ampelidae PAGE 11 The latest cry from Spain´s world of fashion white wine PAGE 15 Waiting for the Barberas PAGE 19 The Beverage Auction Stockholm 1st June 2010 PAGE 24 Concours Mondial de Bruxelles in Palermo PAGE 27 The Emigrants part 2 PAGE 31 The Predecessor - Domaine Duseigneur PAGE 34 Sexual frustration at René Barbier´s PAGE 36 Fine Wine Guides: Madrid PAGE 39 Drinking wine out of a Plastic Mug PAGE 41 Verona - a week in the Service of Wine PAGE 43 Ornellaia guarantees its legitimacy with the help of RFID NEWS CHILEAN TOP PRODUCER TORRES EXpaNDS ITS EXpaNDS 400% IN TWELVE PRESENCE IN KINA YEARS The Spanish bodega Miguel Torres was The Chilean Bodegan Concha y Toro amongst the first commence wine cul- is bursting its seams. 12 years ago the tivation in China. However the project company was one of the biggest in cooled off after a series of administrative blunders. After this in Spain they decid- Chile with its 3000 hectares of wine cul- A NEW FINE WINE ed to invest in exporting the wine to the tivation land. This alone was impressive gigantic market in the East. PLayeR ON THE enough, but it is during the last 12 years Now follows the next phase of Torres’s SWEDISH MARket that great expansion has occurred in marketing strategy, namely a chain of Vinlusen (The wine louse) is the Chile and in Argentina as well. wine stores, where according to the name of a new player on the During this year they reckon with hav- Spanish press, the staff are trained in Swedish Wine and Spirits market. ing 12000 hectares of vineyards in wine’s Fine Wine to be able to give extra service Primarily they will be working own paradise as well In neighboring Ar- to the stream of Chinese customers. “We with Fine Wines and high quality gentina, where at the present time they started with distribution in 1997, which spirits. Amongst the products that own 1200 hectares of grape cultivation. ran at a loss, but now we’ve been in they represent we find the cognac This makes Conch y Toro to one of the the black for several years”, says Miguel Maxime Rijol and the bio dynami- absolute largest wine producers and Torres the company’s CEO. cally grown products from Trénel During 2009 sales of Torres wines in Chi- Fils from Bourgogne, Laurent Per- acreage owners in the world. The super na increased by 14%, which puts their raud in the Loire, Daniel Crochet, company makes a range of wines under turnover at the present time of approxi- Sancerre. Even the Domaine Gilles various brand labels amongst others mately 10 million Euros. At the moment Chollet, Poilly Fumét and another Casillero del Diablo, everything from Miguel Torres has 6 wine stores dotted ecological wine from the Chateau high to low, as well as some of Chile’s around China as well as sales through de Surande, Quarts de Chaume. iconic wines like Don Melchor and Al- the internet. maviva. For more information on Vinlusen JFC JFC call +46 70 471 19 66 WELCOME TO A NEW EDITION OF FINE WINE YOUR on-linE magaZINE IN A GLASS OF ITS OWN When Europe Rose from the Ashes of Winter like the fabled Phoenix Spring time this year has been unusual for a number of reasons. Up here in Sweden we’ve been caught in the iron grip of winter for four months of relentless snow, ice and sub zero temperatures. Even the southern latitudes of France and even as far down as Barcelona have received a good covering of snow. How is this likely to effect this year’s grape harvest? The producer’s that I’ve been speaking to are all agreed that the snow is a good thing, It all helps to get rid of a number of destructive insects and protects the vines against the cold. Let’s hope that they’re right! In this edition there is a lot of discussion about quality and investment, exciting developments and new endeavors. Naturally we’ll be covering the great beverage auction in Stockholm. Do You? http://www.auktionsverket.se/s.asp?s=online_10/online.asp Now with summer approaching we notice more and more that “good food” tourism is increasing more and more. A hot tip for anyone who’s on the lookout for a special culinary experience and has the wherewithal to pay for it, then Mathias Dahlgren’s Dining Room adjacent to the Grand Hotel. You’ll not be disappointed with either the food, the drink or the service. Allow us to wish you all a really pleasant summer. Welcome to a brand new and exciting number of Fine Wine International Ove Canemyr Chief Editor Fine Wine Magazine It is permitted to forward Fine Wine Magazine to friends and acquaintances interested in Fine Wines and are over the age of 18 years. Please let us know about anything interesting that you get to know about, people, events etc. We cannot be held responsible for any unsolicited material, manuscripts, photos etc. You’re welcome to please quote from Fine Wine Magazine,but always reveal your sources. EDITORAL OFFICE: Ove Canamyr: Chief Editor , Fine Wine Magazine/Trendsetter Box 24013, 104 50 Stockholm. Layout : Sophie L Slettengren, By Design AB, International Edition Translations: Roger Brett, Broadcasting Arts. [email protected] Front Cover photography: Anne-Marie Canemyr. 2 NOTICE FOR CHateaUNEUF DU PAPE TERROIR IS EVERYTHING Daniel Brunier made a guest appearance at Pontus’s one of Stockholm’s fantastic restaurants and he had this to say, “Wine is a 100% terroir! It is its personality. In my opinion we should interfere as little as possible in its development”. How does climate change affect production? “We are affected by it just like everyone else. Back in 2003 to 2005 we were re- ally frightened, there was an extreme drought but then came 2006-2009 where conditions were perfect. It seems that everything goes in cycles but we´re all affected by climate change. In which order should we consume the products? “If you’re asking me? Then I suggest you drink la Roquette and let the Vieux Télègraphe continue to age in peace.” For the enthusiasts, if you’re interested?, these wines are available at your nearest 4000 EUROS FOR WINE IN FINE WINES FROM WESTERN AUSTRALIA THE SAUCE David Hodgson of the 3 Oceans Wine Company in Australia has a dedicated goal, namely to make wines of European Pity the poor cook, who uses wine in caliber. The cultivations are situated on the Margaret River his cuisine. In Dubai, that sit reports in Western Australia and the Franklin River about 14 miles that owing to many complaints from inland. Here they produce amongst others, Palandri and restaurant guests that they suspect Baldavis. Thanks to the relatively cold winds off of the sea the chefs in their kitchens are using the reasonably low summer temperatures affords them alcohol to enhance their culinary a slowly ripening process not unlike the circumstances in creations. Devout Moslems do not Bordeaux. Apart from that they have access to water, some- consume alcohol, so the authorities thing which is unusual in other parts of Australia. have decided to impose a fine of the In previous years almost all of the prizes in the indigenous Australian wine com- equivalent of 40 000:- Swedish crowns petitions have gone to producers in the South and East. But now the wine world (approx 4000 Euro) on any cook who has started to raise an eyebrow since products from the western provinces are infringes upon the faith. Incidentally suddenly walking away with prize after prize. Having ambition is one thing, but turning your plans into reality is another. the ban is only on cooking. In between times however, one thing is sure. There are producers here that will enjoy great response at blind tasting events all over the world. Regular bars that have a license to Why don’t you try them yourself? They’re at an off license near you. (SystemBolaget serve alcohol may continue to do so. is the name of Swedish, state owned chain of off-licenses). JFC Support our operation and inform us about Fine Wines Take this opportunity to give yourselves and your friends Fine Wine throughout the whole of 2010. A present that will last a long time. Pay Sek: 200:- into the bank giro num- ber BG 721-1980 and add the E-mail address of the lucky recipient of this thoughtful and lovely present. (send to [email protected]) 3 fréderic brochet at ampelidae TEXT BRitt KARLSSON PHoto PeR KARLSSON, BKWINE.COM I HAVE met FEW wine producers who are as active as Fréderic Brochet. To own a vineyard that isn’t situated in a well known wine district, well hardly a wine district at all, demands a great deal of perseverance and tenacity to gain the attention and recognition that he indeed has received, but not without a struggle. >>> 4 FREDERIC BROCHET began his career as situated is in turn named after the an academic, after studying Biol- river Vienne. ogy and Psychology he doctored in “Of course Vin de Pays Loire is Oenology at the university of Bor- clearly more sellable”, says Fréder- deaux with a thesis entitled “Cog- ic. But never the less, not sellable nitive Aspects of Tasting”.