Inspirational wine knowledge and the people behind the drink

March INTERNATIONAL 2012

INTERNA Web Auction TIONAL special

iconic wines from the wine wine cultivation in The golden condor world’s paradise sid 6 new zealand is growing sid 11 sid 22

SID 6 iconic wines from the wine world’s paradise SID 11 wine cultivation in new zealand is growing SID 18 cautiously optimistic: the fine wine market in 2011 SID 22 The golden condor SID 25 fine wine producer of the year 2012 SID 29 “yes please, i´m driving!” SID 31 the swedish alcohol policy in europe SID 34 wine clubs are here to stay WebAuction Special: SID 36 on the Online Web Auction Stockholm 12th - 14th Ma rch 2012 SID 41 Online Fine Wine auctions SID 40 Online Fine Wine auktioner SID 42 SOTHEBY ’S HONG KONG 2012 SPRING SALESERIES SID 44 SOTHEBY ´s London March sale SID 45 INVESTERING ELLER NJUTNING? INTERNATIONAL news

The SystemBolaget to use Create Your Own Blend Ethical Displays Scott Zrna from Fox Creek in the famed McLaren Vale region of South Australia Finding ethical wines at the off-li- invited guests at the ‘My Kitchen Fair’ to a blending session. On each table stood cense is going to be easier from now four component wines of 2010 vintage. Two on. In addition to the green, ecologi- versions of Shiraz of course, because Scott is cal shelf displays there will a purple an Australian, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab- display to show that the wine is ethi- ernet Franc, as well as a blending tube, with cally approved. In this way the state a scale that measured up to a 100. For one retail chain has responded to one of hour those present were allowed to create the demands that the Campaign for their favourite blend of the aforementioned Fairness In Winestores ran last year. wines. The two different blends of the Shiraz This just shows that dedication and wines were the deciding factor. As usual the international cooperation pays off. Cabernet Sauvignon stood for the body of “Grassroots involvement on three dif- the wine, with the little Cabernet Franc to ferent continents, interacting with round it off at the top. A very pleasant initia- strategic communication has worked tive where at the end of the day everyone’s well!” says Gabi Bjornson, Secretary a winner. General of the Africa Groups. The campaign has encouraged the Sys- temBolaget monopoly, which is one of the world’s largest retailers of wine, as well as other Swedish wine import- ers, to assume a greater obligation for the farm workers’ situation. “Shelf displays of ethically labelled wines are a step in the right direction”, says a spokesperson for the organization. JFC

Welcome to a new edition of Fine Wine. Your on-line magazine in a glass of its own Online Web Auctions Open the way for New Global Auctions 2012 is going to be a very exciting year, especially for those looking for new opportunities for ROI (return on investment). There is reason to believe that the global investment market for fine wines will be shifting to the different web auctions around the world which are now accessible in real time. The first one out of the box is the Swedish SystemBolaget, the state owned off-license chain, together with Stockholm’s Auktionsverk. Last autumn they carried a three day trial in real time for a designated number of hours per day. The results were so promising that SystemBolaget made the quick decision to discontinue the public ‘under the hammer’ auctions in the future, so as to focus entirely on online Web auctions instead. To begin with they plan to hold four auctions beginning this spring. Added to this there will be discussion on topical Fine Wine auctions with Sotheby’s, Zach’s and Christie’s. There is also current information on the Whiskey auctions, which you’ll find in the web auctions supplement at the back of this edition. Also in this edition is an article by Ursula Hellberg on New Zealand wines and Johan Franco Cereceda on Chilean wineries. Christopher Jarnvall writes on the Swedish alcohol politics in Europe and Stuart George writes on the Fine Wine Market during 2011 and what’s going on in 2012. And, as is our tradition, we have chosen our Fine Wine Producer of the year. A warm welcome to a new and exciting year! Ove Canemyr Editor in Chief Fine Wine International

It is perfectly acceptable to send Fine Wine International to good friends and acquaintances who are 20 years and older and are interested in Fine Wines. Please tip us off about interesting events and occurrences, get together etc. [email protected] e cannot take responsibility to unsolicited material. Please quote freely from Fine Wine but always reveal your sources.

Editoral Office: Ove Canemyr: Editor in Chief , Fine Wine Magazine/Trendsetter Box 24013, 104 50 Stockholm. Layout : Sophie L Slettengren, By Design AB, English texts: Roger Brett, Broadcasting Arts. [email protected] Proofreading: Kris Bibby Omslagsfoto: Anne-Marie Canemyr

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The Wind Brings The Aroma The Classic Rioja Bodega Reingau was nearly destroyed at the end of WWII - there is launching wines made wasn’t much left of the vineyards. Many of the growers sim- from Chardonnay ply gave up or sold their land but the Leitz family wasn’t one of them. Johannes Leitz was only 18 years old when he lost his father and had to take over the family vineyard at a mo- ment’s notice back in 1985 and since then things have gone very well. Johannes has always run his vineyard with a clear understanding of the way forward towards better wine by constantly improving the quality and subsequent profitabil- ity. All vineyards are treated as separate entities meaning Johannes’ philosophy is very ‘terroir’ orientated. Each vineyard’s terroir and situation expresses its own elegance and finesse. Rieslings from Weingut Joseph Leitz have become highly regarded, particularly in the USA and the UK as well as Sweden and Norway. These are the largest export markets and represent 65% of his wine production. “You could say that my wines are grown, not made, and that the minerality from the soils appeals to the Scandinavian taste. Perhaps even more than the Ger- In recent times Rioja has been allowed man,” says Johannes with a wink. to grow Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo in order to attract wine- Johannes’ wines are available in the Swedish state owned off-licence chain Sys- makers to make exclusive white wines. temBolaget’s regular stock. It’s the classic Bodegas that are not so regular stock. If you’re interested then go to www.leitz-wein.de easily seduced by the sales potential in putting Chardonnay on the label. ”To be true – first a wine have to be good” There is an exception though - Bode- gas Faustino Martinez. Only a meagre At a recent lecture in Stockholm David Le Mire from Shaw 5% of the wine production in Rioja is & Smith has inverted this concept, which is the mantra of white wine. Everything is dominated the biodynamic growers in, amongst other places, France, by the mighty Tempranillo. Never- to mean: “To be good –a wine has to be true.” David’s state- theless Faustino’s wind-up has raised ment is in line with current trends amongst the Chardon- great interest in the international nay producers in Australia. The alcohol content is reduced wine press. The company began its resulting in a more crisp and creamy style with less vanilla. planting of Chardonnay in 1990, when The use of large French oak barrels has increased, some- the variety was permitted in the pro- thing that’s been going on in the Bourgogne for some time duction of Cava in the area. to reduce the residual taste of oak. How do we interpret this? Is this the beginning of a transition to an Old World But now in March the time has come. style of Australia? Or is this a flirt with some of the BRIC countries which are a bit The premier launch has been planned closer on the map? This new type of Chardonnay goes very well with Asian food, for London with the wine’s meagre so will the new markets be China and India? Where there soon won’t be any 25% Chardonnay; the rest is made up French wines to get hold of. This could be a new and interesting, not to men- of the indigenous grape variety Viura. tion expanding, market for Chardonnay producers Down Under. On the other There are many who judge this to hand what do the traditional Chardonnay consumers in Australia have to say be the prelude to a newly awakened about this? interest in the prestigious district’s white wines. We have a lot of exciting things to look forward to in the coming years. Read more on www.shawandsmith.com JFC

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Moët-Hennessy Are ”If they open a Restaurant on the Moon Cultivating Wine in the – we like to be there” Himalayas Stefano Leone from Antinori circumnavigates There was a time when terroir was the globe five times a year to maintain contact the talking point in quality wine pro- with the 140 markets where Antinori wines duction, now the new trend in the are represented. The above quote comes from World of Wine is high altitude culti- Stefano himself, and is an expression of the vation. This means quite literally to will to be present at all the new exciting mar- kets, large and small. For Stefano all markets grow grapes as high as 1000 meters are important, which is why in some countries above sea level, perhaps even more. they have even opened their own restaurants In this way the mainstay of the wine so as to ensure the perfect match between good food and their excellent wines. becomes its acidity and its freshness “We like to create a partnership with our customers in different markets and I believe - a feature that is growing in demand that quality of distribution and long term relationships are the ingredients to achieve nowadays by discerning wine con- just that.” Together with Guido Vannucchi, who’s responsible for the northern European sumers. markets, they recently visited their importer in Sweden. Where do you find the energy? “I usually say that I’m a happy man, I enjoy what I’m doing. And to be part of the entertainment business, makes work easy.” Which are the markets that attract you most at the present time? “The BRIC markets are of course interesting, but most of all, China will be our big- gest export market in a few years to come. Today USA, Germany, Canada, Switzer- land and Russia are the five biggest markets for Antinori Wines.” Generally speaking, how do you see the future for Fine Wines on a Global perspective? “The prize will grow, as the demand is growing. Some Fine Wine brands will grow a lot in the future for this reason. Of course a good vintage would raise the price on today’s global wine market. But you see when a new, interesting market emerges, we absolutely want to be represented there...even if it’s on the moon!”

It Is the Oceans That Influence Our Wines? The question is should we redefine what high altitude cultivation actu- Dave Guffy, the winemaker for Hess, was on a flying visit to Stockholm to explain ally means? Particularly as it is now to us the prerequisites and conditions needed to create elegant, well-balanced known that the luxury wine compa- and complex wines in the Napa valley. Hess has been producing its wines there ny Moët-Hennessy is growing grapes for more than 30 years. at 2400 metres above sea level up in “Our Chardonnay is affected by the cold, misty mornings and the afternoon breez- the Himalayas. Absolutely spectacu- es. It is an ideal climate for cultivating Chardonnay, coupled to the fact that the lar, but not entirely without controver- vineyards are situated on the bed of an old lake. We have the clay sy. According to the Chinese press the and limestone to thank for the intense fruitiness and the nine dif- contract has already been signed be- ferent clones we work with, which gives us a unique opportunity tween the autonomous region’s gov- to attain these apple, honey and nectarine flavours.T he malolactic ernment in China and the company. fermentation, carried out before aging in small oak casks creates the overall impression of acidity in the end, “says Dave. JFC Find out more: www.hesscollection.com

www.vinlusenab.se 4 INTERNATIONAL God news for Connoisseurs

This spring you have the possibility to buy rare bottles at Systembolagets online auctions in collaboration with Stockholms Auktionsverk at www.stadsauktion.se

12–14 of March starting at 1 pm 16–18 of April starting at 1 pm 21–23 of May starting at 1 pm

5 INTERNATIONAL iconic wines from the wine world’s paradise Words & Pictures Johan Franco Cereceda

Actually this is more a problem of semantics. After a wave of the best wines from Chile, we now have to contend with even better wines. But how shall we describe them, and what are we going to call them?

Initially it was Premier Premium, There aren’t many wine producing can. The question though, that and then it was Super Premium. countries that can boast they are many people are asking today is: Now, though, it looks as if they free of Phylloxera (an aphid that “How good can Chilean wine have decided to call them Iconic feeds off vines, ultimately destroy- actually get?” This is not a par- Wines, and there’s a whole lot of ing them) and still be called Wine ticular semantic dilemma, but the them, not least the ones from Er- Paradise by the world’s wine con- concept of the wines that followed rázuriz. noisseurs. Well, Chile certainly the initial surge of great premium

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6 INTERNATIONAL wines is! The solution was to pro- visionally call the wines Premier premium or Super premium, but that got to be almost ridiculous in the international arena, even though the Spanish language is not averse to using double superlatives to empha- size importance. But just when it seemed that there was no adjective that quite described these superb wines, they arrived at the expression Iconic Wines and everyone seemed happy with that. However there are many people that believe it’s re- ally all about producing good wines. And the fact that the expression more or less imposes certain obliga- “When I saw that two of our wines Chateau Lafite, even Italian wines tions upon the producer is good. were voted best, I thought it would like Sassicaia and Ornellaia. The be silly to hold any more compe- end result clearly illustrated that One company that works intensive- titions like this,” says Eduardo some of Chile’s best wines can defi- ly with quality orientation is the Chadwick, Errázuriz’s managing nitely hold their own against some Chilean giant Errázuriz. The firm director. More importantly the re- of the best wines in the world. Klaus is treated with great respect all over sult sent a signal to the conservative Schröder, the legendary oenologist the world and many wine stores wine world that there are exclusive and owner of Viña Alta Cima has that consider themselves ‘posh’ dis- premium wines in the New World, a proven track record on the Chil- play the wines boldly. We are fully and not only the Old. ean viticultural scene. His CV is aware that the wine company can impressive; there was a time when deliver the goods. Not least thanks In 2009 a comparable blind tasting he was connected to Errázuriz. He to the Berlin Tasting. It was a tri- was arranged in Sweden. It was is convinced today that Chile, as a umphal march around the world an event that attracted the entire wine-producing country, is on the where their house wines are in the Swedish wine elite and a few others right track when it comes to the same league as some of the world’s to the Grand Hotel in Stockholm. pursuit of excellence. (read France and Italy) very best Ten wines, five of them from Er- wines. We are talking about verita- rázuriz and five prestige wines from “We’re producing less but signifi- ble iconic wines. the so-called Old World were com- cantly better wines. Our emphasis peting against each other in a blind is on origin, and we’re producing The Berlin Tasting was held for the tasting. And the result? wine for wine lovers. At the same first time in 2004. Five Chilean time we must continue to exert wines were tasted blind against The experts rated the French entrant ourselves even more. We’re right at a few of the Old World’s prestige a winner. However later that same the beginning of our development. wines, amongst them a top Cha- evening, when the same tasting was It’s vitally important that we don’t teau Bordeaux. The result was carried out for wine enthusiasts, take our eyes off the ball. The last surprising, and naturally made members of the Munskänkarna 25 years have been very interesting, headlines, especially on the South Society, the results were differ- particularly the last decade, but we American continent. Two Chilean ent. Many of the house wines were still have a lot to do.” At the same wines ended up on top of what was placed ahead of wines such as Mou- time he stresses the importance of later to become an important an- ton Rothschild, Chateau Margaux, making wines that didn’t exist be- nual blind tasting. >>>

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fore in Chile. Not least to change of it and we’re relying on it more the Aconcagua, about a hundred the image abroad which he feels is and more.” kilometres north of Santiago, the pretty static. capital city. To say that the coun- Getting back to Errázuriz - today tryside here is beautiful is almost One method is to do as Errázuriz it is owned by the Chadwick fam- an insult. It is more like insanely does and travel the world with a ily, who are related to the previous pretty, nothing more, nothing less. conceptual tasting like the Berlin Errázuriz owners. It’s here that we Mount Aconcagua which gave the Tasting, though he admits that meet one of the country’s, perhaps wine its name is the highest in Chile’s international reputation is the world’s, greatest wine per- both of the American continents partly the Chilean wine industry’s sonalities - Eduardo Chadwick. and affords the grapes a reliable own fault. “We have incredible His passion for wine is renowned and favourable climate for grape opportunities to make great wines and his ability to innovate almost cultivation. Its peak rises majesti- - the climate, the soil, and above feared by his competitors. Already cally over 7000 metres above sea- all the desire among many grow- in the 1990’s when the country’s level and lies only 80 kilometres ers to succeed. We also have lots wines went under the epithet The to the east. The area stretches from of land for vine cultivation that’s Volvo of Wines (whatever you the foot of the mountain in the never been used before so we’re drank , there were never any sur- east, across country to the Pacific actually facing an exciting future. prises) he initiated a project to- ocean in the west. It doesn’t rain But only if we roll up our sleeves gether with another of the New very much - about 250mm a year and get stuck in!” Klaus Schröder World’s most respected wine per- - which provides ideal conditions and all the other producers in sonalities Robert Mondavi. To- for using the mineral-rich melted the 4500 kilometer long country gether they created a wine that ice water off the great mountains speak warmly of the terroir, that was to be something of a prelude to the east. Apart from that the air is to say the interplay between the to today’s iconic wines. The Erra- is very dry which prevents mould grape, the position, the soil and zuriz philosophy is best described diseases gaining a foothold in the the climate. For producers that by the late Don Maximiano Erra- vineyard. The Humboldt winds are concentrating on quality, ter- zuriz. ”De la mejor tierra, el mejor reach the district as well which roir has become increasingly im- vino. From the best soil, comes dries out the air a little bit more, portant. “It’s always been impor- the best wine.” This is something and brings with it a coolness from tant to us but nowadays there are the Errazuriz’s were aware of 150 the Pacific ocean. Here they main- many studies that show just how years ago when the vineyard was ly grow all of the big well-known important it is - we’re more aware founded. The property lies up in varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon,

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Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Shi- Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir clear indication of what Chile is raz, Carmenére and Viogner, as growing. The wines are marketed facing in the future. Wine pro- well as some of the varieties that under the collective name of Er- ducers look to the future with have helped achieve fame for the rázuriz Aconcagua Costa, which confidence. Grape varieties like country. They continue search- is another branch of the Errázuriz Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvi- ing for new areas suitable for wine Wine Company. We also find gnon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvi- production. Viña Arboleda, Viñedo Chadwick gnon Blanc, Shiraz / Syrah, as well and Viña Caliterra which in com- as the more unusual varieties like But it doesn’t stop there for Er- mon with the others are also in the Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Mar- razuriz - their ambitions are well the pursuit of excellence. sanne, Roussanne, Viognier and known. They want Chile on the their own indigenous and quite world map with emphasis as a So we’re back to just how good can unique Carmenère are just one quality producer. And maybe they Chilean wines get? The question of many competitive advantages. are getting closer to their goal be- isn’t an easy one to answer. But Maybe it’s all about what they’re cause a few kilometres away from after a while travelling around striving for. Well at least they have the Aconcagua river’s Pacific es- the country you can see that the the Errázuriz of course. tuary you’ll find Chardonnay, superb environment provides a

Fine Wines från Italen! Se själv på www.wineoclock.se

Att beställa vin från Wine O´clock är helt lagligt och bekymmersfritt. Sedan juni 2007 kan svenskar bestäl- la vin från utlandet och få det hemlevererat. Svensk Alkoholskatt och moms är redan inkluderat i priset.

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ÅRETS RÖDA NYKOMLING 2011 I ALLT OM vIN

Taurasi – rött vin från Kampanien Art.nr: 6282. PrIS: 150 kr 75cl. 13,5% VOl. ÅrgÅng 2006

Bästa ”Rik, komplex smak i mycket Köp ursprungstypisk stil med matkrävande ALLt OM VIn struktur och längd.” nUMMEr 1/2012

LÄS MEr OM FEUdI dI SAn GrEGOrIO

Att börja dricka i tidig ålder ökar risken för alkoholproblem.

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wine cultivation in new zealand is growing Words & Pictures Ursula Hellberg

The province of Marlborough on the South Island put New Zealand on the World Wine Map, a map that today is complimented by regions such as Nelson, Central Otago and Waipara, all in the South Island. But first, let’s take a look at how it all started.

Back in 1973 the Montana wine awards for his wines at the Sun- vintner, has run the company very company planted their first Sau- day Times Wine Show in London successfully and is known as New vignon Blanc vines in Marlbor- back in 1986. Here was proof that Zealand’s First Lady of Wine. ough. Although vines had been New Zealand’s Sauvignon Blanc, grown for decades, no one had and indeed other varieties, was up The Labels Are In Maori tried it on a large scale. In 1979 to world class standard. The fol- ‘Kaho Roa’ and ‘Miru Miru’ are the charismatic and enthusiastic lowing year, Ernie died in a car ac- a few of Hunter’s most popular Irish-born Ernie Hunter arrived in cident; he was only 37 years old. wines. These are Maori words that Marlborough. It was his passion Since then his widow, Jane Hunt- mean ‘stored on the wood’ and for wine that saw him take many er, who is herself an accomplished >>> 11 INTERNATIONAL

‘bubbles’. New Zealand’s Maori considered one of the pioneers in (formerly Montana) is now part culture has a history that dates Marlborough and has been run by of the Pernod Ricard company back to the 13th century and Phil and Chris Rose since 1978. and the well-known Cloudy Bay it makes itself felt in many con- Nowadays their five children also is also French through the LVMH texts. From the ‘Haka’ war dance work in the business, which is the Group. Highfield Winery, built that is performed traditionally largest family-owned vineyard in in the Tuscany style brings anoth- by rugby teams prior to a match, the district. er kind of European connection to the world renowned soprano to Marlborough . During lunch Dame Kiri Te Kanawa. Many of Despite the localized names, at the in the beautiful Highfield gar- the wineries in New Zealand bear present time there are many for- den I met wine maker Al Soper, Maori-inspired names. For exam- eign owners playing a large part who shared his highly prized El- ple, Wairau River Wines- ‘Wairau’ in the local wine industry. There stree Cuvee Brut with me. It’s a meaning many rivers. WRW is is some French interest - Brancott sparkling wine, partly fermented, >>>

A toast to NZ and the All Blacks! (Win- ners of Who Rugby World Cup)

Auntsfield Lucie and her daughters Mathilde and Madelaine on Aurum (Central Otago) In the Fore ground you can se the house Riesling, which goes perfectly with Asian food.

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made from equal parts Chardon- son-in-law took it over until it was Heritage in honour of the wine nay and Pinot Noir grapes. The finally abandoned in the 1930’s. pioneer. This wine also contains a wine is produced in cooperation After a kind of 70 year ‘Rip Van few drops from the only surviving with Drappiers, a French winery Winkle’ slumber it was brought bottle of David Herd’s last vintage with a long history of making fine back to life when Graeme and produced in 1905. champagnes. Highfield has also Linda Cowley bought the land in excelled with its white Sauvignon 1998. It was then that an old lady Nelson Blanc wines. of 101 told them about the vine- The Home Of Arts & yard’s history. She showed them Craftsmen and Wine Auntsfied & the Old Lady where the original old wine cellar Growers Whilst recognising the efforts of was situated, and where the win- Over an hour’s drive west from the last 40 years that has seen the ery once had been. The Cowleys Marlborough lies the Nelson wine Marlborough wine region expand, where somewhat dubious about district, so called after the town of there were some very early pio- the story, but once they started ex- the same name. I thought it South neers too, that shouldn’t be forgot- cavating, they discovered that she Island’s most beautiful city with its ten. One of these was David Herd was right. Under a great mound many hills and a wonderful coast- from Scotland. In 1873 he started of earth they found the cellar that line. The first Englishmen landed his own vineyard, the Auntsfield had been closed for 70 years. A here in the 1840’s and since those estate, which was Marlborough’s year ago they replanted the origi- early days the town has welcomed first winery. It was christened after nal vineyard with the same vari- immigrants from all over Europe, his home district back in Scotland. ety that David Herd grew. They who were predominantly English, When David became too old to have also started producing a German, Italian and Scandina- run the vineyard and winery, his very exclusive Pinot Noir called vian. >>>

The Vineyards of Marlborough

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Jeff Pierce at the Three Miners Pisa Range forms a beautiful back- Rudi Bauer has meant a lot to Cen- drop to the vineyards of Central tral Otago´s development. Here he is Otago. stands in the Quarz Reef Vineyard.

Many of them were skilled artistic winning aromatic white wines. to call it Sweet Agnes. The wine craftsmen - potters, silversmiths Their childrenC hris and Heidi itself is a real fruit bomb and con- and glassblowers of a very high continue the family tradition tains almost 250 grams residual class. Just outside Nelson is Hö- and are also winemakers. Their sugar. The taste is still fresh with glund Glass, where Ola Höglund Würzers, a cross between Gewür- clear elements of peaches and nec- cobntinues the tradition started ztraminer and Müller Thurgau, is tarines. The vineyard boasts its by his father Erik Höglund, one one of the most well-known. The own restaurant, the Petite Fleur. of Sweden’s most prominent glass well-matured Pinot Noir is also There you can order lunch planks sculptors. to be recommended. If you pre- served on original staves taken fer sweet, then I can recommend from oak wine barrels. Amongst those who came here to Sweet Agnes which is made in the work with wine, we find Her- style of an ‘Ice Wine’ by freezing South of the town of Nelson the mann Seifried. Together with the grapes after the harvest. Be- vineyards are grouped tightly to- his New Zealand wife Agnes, he cause they cannot rely on nature gether. Another prominent pro- is one of the region’s pioneers. to freeze the grapes they cannot ducers in the region is Neudorf Throughout his 30-year career market it as a true ice wine but , whose cask-stored Chardonnay he has produced many award- they allow the American importer with a taste of bourbon is avail-

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14 INTERNATIONAL able in the basic selection of the and ski. The area also has an ex- the biggest challenge was to adapt Swedish state-owned off-licence citing history. In 1860 it was in- the vineyard to its surroundings. chain SystemBolaget. I decided vaded by hopeful gold prospectors It wasn’t just a question of break- to visit Fossil Ridge and Green- in one of history’s biggest gold ing the soil and planting the hough Vineyard. At the latter rushes. Nowadays it’s not the gold vines. Water, electricity and an Andrew Greenhough and Jenny that attracts people, but rather the infrastructure had to be created. Wheeler produce exquisite wines rapid establishment of vineyards Today he cultivates Pinot Noir, with the best from their Hope in the world’s southernmost wine Chardonnay and Pinot Gris on vineyard. Their wine from Apple region. vineyards facing north. His Pinot Valley is very pleasant too, in par- Noir wines are particularly fa- ticular their 2010 Riesling. The We are on the 45th parallel south mous. Speaking for myself I am soil of both Greenhough and their in an extreme inland climate. equally impressed by his sparkling neighbour Fossil Ridge is rich in During summer the thermom- wines, impossible to distinguish limestone and fossils. There are eter can climb to 40 degrees cen- from champagne. Rudi is a per- even fossilized mussel shells, the tigrade, while the winters can see fectionist and his wines are crafted remnants of creatures that lived the temperature plunge to minus down to the smallest detail. He in the sea some 200 million years 20 degrees. Added to which it’s has twice won the coveted Win- ago. Today they give character to very, very dry, so you have to ask emaker of the Year award in New the wine. yourself, who had the bright idea Zealand – in 1999 and 2010. of investing in wine-making here? But he gets his rewards in another Central Otago way too, as he himself says: Queenstown is one of New Zea- One who didn’t hesitate was Rudi “In Central Otago every day is a land’s tourism adventure towns. Bauer from Austria. Since 1991 holiday. This landscape is so fan- It was here that bungy jumping he has created a 15 hectare vine- tastic and the whole region so from the Kawarau Bridge started yard he has named Quartz Reef strikingly beautiful. So it’s a bit back in 1980. Tourists come here due to the quartz rock that lies be- of a bonus to grow grapes here as from far and wide to ramble, hike neath the soil. According to him, well”. >>>

The excavated wine cellar at Auntsfield, that the 101 year old lady remembered from her childhood.

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On Mountford in Waipara, Cathryn Ryan invited her wine-producing neighbors for lunch and tasting. The wines were from Bellbird Spring, Franc Rest Estate and Crater Rim. As you can see the neighbourliness is very good.

that pioneering spirit and where The Place Where Gold Turns ‘Aurum’ is the name given to the cooperation is a prerequisite for Into Wine vineyard where Joan and Tony success. Together with a group This area in Central Otago is Lawrence, together with their son of Waipara growers I tasted some heavily dominated by its history. Brook and daughter-in-law Lucie wines from the Mountford estate. Many wine labels allude to that as have put down roots in more ways Waipara is an hour’s drive north well. For example the Three Min- than one. After leaving their jobs as of Christchurch and is one of ers and Aurum, the latin word for archeologist and dentist, they have the youngest wine regions. Sau- gold. Three Miners is run by Jeff become dedicated wine growers vignon Blanc, Riesling and Pinot Pierce and his wife Julie Mitchell. on a vineyard that is planted with Noir are the dominating grape Since 2000 they’ve been grow- ungrafted vines. They grow both varieties in this fledgling wine ing Pinot Noir, Riesling, Gewür- red and white varieties, and make region. The most famous winery ztraminer and Pinot Gris on sparkling as well as sweet wines in is Pegasus Bay but personally I about 15 hectares. The vineyard the Carat series. Lucie, the wine think the smaller producers are lies in the south western corner maker, is from Bourgogne, which more interesting. Mountford Es- of Central Otago, near Alexandra. explains why the house wines tate belongs to Kathryn Ryan and There used to be many Chinese have a French influence.S he has Kees Zeestraten, whose blind win- gold prospectors in this district named their Pinot Noir wines af- emaker C.P. Lin compensates for and one of the wines is named ter her daughters Mathilde and the loss of one of his senses with after them - Three Miners Chi- Madeleine – quite an honour for an unbelievable sensory memory. namen Stone Gewürztraminer. a five and a seven-year-old! It’s worth mentioning that they Chinamen Stone is a local stone still trample the red wine grapes that is often found where there’s Waipara and the Kiwi Spirit underfoot following the classic gold. The wine is elegant with a “The Kiwi spirit really does exist French example. When you taste fine spiciness. Natural yeast was in Waipara,” Di and Ian Holding Waipara wines France doesn’t used in the fermentation process from the Fancrest Estate tell us. seem so far away. resulting in a wine that offers that What they mean is the entrepre- little extra ‘something’ to make it neurial style that distinguishes a Fancrest only makes Pinot Noir. special. land where the people still have The vines have had a tough grow-

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Klipp ut och tag med Serrata Belguardo Art. nr: 22955 Pris: 99:- Alkoholhalt: 13,5%

www.johanlidbyvinhandel.se

Hälften av alla som drunknar har alkohol i blodet.

17 INTERNATIONAL cautiously optimistic: the fine wine market in 2011 Text Stuart George Foto Acker Merrall & Condit, Christie’s and Sotheby’se

With record totals and jaw-dropping prices achieved at auctions, the fine wine market was apparently in rude health in 2011. But the secondary market away from the auction rooms of Kowloon told a different story.T he London-based fine wine exchange Liv-ex’s Fine Wine 100 Index, which “represents the price movement of 100 of the most sought-after fine wines for which there is a strong secondary market and is calculated monthly”, fell by 15% in 2011.

The Auction Houses in 2011 wine auction house and a 12% in- expensive auction lot of the year Most auction houses had their crease on its 2011 total. Acker Mer- worldwide”: a 1952-2007 vertical best-ever year. New York-based rall claimed “more than 500 records of Romanée-Conti that sold for Acker Merrall & Condit achieved established in 2011”, including HK$5,200,000 ($666,666). $110,454,801 in sales (including the “biggest auction of the year”, 22% buyer’s premium) in 2011, which made HK$112,740,200 Sotheby’s 2011 sales reached the highest-ever annual total for a ($14,453,872) on 8th and 10th US$85,467,096 (including pre- December and included the “most miums of 15-21%), just behind >>> 18 INTERNATIONAL

2010’s total of $88.27 mil- Chicago auctioneer Hart Davis Lafite of clay lion. London wine sales realised Hart made $37,425,857 from Auctioneers continued to whip $27,191,060, the highest annual seven sales (including 19.5% up the Lafite “myth”. A 25-case total there since the wine depart- premium), a slight decline on its lot of Lafite 1981-2005 sold for ment was established in 1970 and 2010 total but still enough to be HK$3,500,000 ($450,648) at an increase of 30% on the 2010 the leading wine auctioneer in the Christie’s Hong Kong in Septem- total of $20.97 million. USA. ber but this proved to be its last hurrah in the Asian market. By Christie’s totalled $92,672,909 Bonhams’ Wine Department fin- October 2011 Hong Kong was (including premiums of 10-21%), ished 2011 with a year on year saturated. Overexposure, excessive from 29 sales conducted across increase in sales of over 40% for prices and forgeries led buyers to six salesrooms. Like Sotheby’s its the second year running, totalling look elsewhere. London sales totalled more than $17 million from its sales in the its New York sales. With London UK, USA and Hong Kong (in- Lafite, it has turned out, is just an- eight hours behind Hong Kong cluding premiums of 15-19%). other wine. The days of Chinese rather than New York’s 13 hours, paying whatever it takes to get bidders in China don’t need to Despite record amounts of wine that case of 1982 are over. Like stay up as late to bid by phone or being sold in 2011, the fourth gold and oil, it became overpriced Internet. Significantly lower buy- quarter saw the market slip. So- because of speculative buying. er’s premiums at London auctions theby’s 2nd October sale, which – 15% against 21% – also make had a clearance rate of 93%, end- The decline of Lafite doesn’t mean it an attractive place in which to ed a run of 16-consecutive 100%- the end of the fine wine market, buy wine. sold sales in Hong Kong. Volatil- though. Hermitage La Chapelle, ity often signals a change and this Le Pin, Latour and d’Yquem all Zachys’ worldwide gross for 2011 was confirmed at Christie’s tepid shone at various auctions in 2011. was US$78,969,614 (includ- 25th-26th November sale, which But figures and anecdotal evi- ing premiums of 21-22%), of had a poor clearance rate of 77%. dence show that the brightest star which $31,742,214 was from US- Its overall clearance rate at Hong in the current market is Domaine based sales, with the remaining Kong sales was only 82%, well be- de la Romanée-Conti. Intense de- $47,227,400 from Hong Kong low its other locations. mand in Asia for an already scarce sales. product will cause prices to spiral >>>

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out of control – and encourage dation problems mean that most The magnificent La Tâche 1962 forgers. But as the market matures are now past their best. is the finest possible way to en- buyers might look at other Bur- joy a 50th birthday. Tuscany had gundy estates for better value, just There’s no Pétrus available for 21st a good year, as did Champagne. as there is more interest in Super anniversaries – the Merlot failed Bordeaux wines are sound but Seconds and other Bordeaux Crus that year and none was made. But have always been overshadowed Classés. California was good. by the much superior 1961s.

Anniversary wines Nothing of significance was made There is plenty of choice for Queen The Mayans believed that the end in 1987. Bordeaux in particular Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee of the world would be in 2012. had a dreadful vintage. celebrations. Cheval Blanc and Happily there are some decent Pétrus 1952 are superb examples vintages available to those cel- Thirty years on, the 1982 Bor- of a much-underrated Bordeaux ebrating an anniversary in 2012 deaux vintage is as sought-after vintage. This year was the first – or winning an Olympic gold as ever. Champagne was also out- bottling of Romanée-Conti to medal. standing and Piedmont enjoyed a be made from the vines that were good year. This is a great Grange planted after the war. Tokaji and Overshadowed by the high-scoring vintage too. Champagne were both successful. 2000 and 2003 wines, 2002 is a very decent Bordeaux vintage and Release prices of the awful 1972 Bordeaux 1942 was better than relatively good value. Tokaji and Bordeaux vintage were notoriously 1941, which is not saying much. Port were more than acceptable in expensive. Burgundy was a bit bet- Yquem was a success, though, and 1992, though French classics are ter. But the best choice for a 40th Burgundy was quite good too. mostly terrible. White Burgundy anniversary is Tokaji, which had There is nothing worthwhile from was good but low acidity and oxi- one of its best ever vintages in 1972. 1932 or 1922.

VINBANKEN

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“Det här är Stockholms motsvarighet till Osteria Verona på Piazza Erbe fast listan på Primewinebar är bättre.” www.amaroneguiden.se

Primewinebar Östermalmstorg 5, Stockholm wwww.primewinebar.se

21 INTERNATIONAL the golden condor There are very few countries around the world that have the natural conditions for win- emaking that Chile does. It is here that the largest bird on the planet takes to the skies and becomes one with nature; it is part of the experience when you visit the Peteroa region and the beautiful Curicò valley. This is the realm of the condor!

Wine cultivation is part of a long not say that the wine produces tradition here that stretches back itself, nor does it mean that the to the time of the Spanish Con- work in the vineyard is any less quistadors. They were astonished demanding than normal. at the beauty and the optimal prevailing weather conditions. We are here at the Hacienda El They realized quite quickly that Condor in the Curicò valley in thanks to the abundance of wa- Peteroa. This vineyard was estab- ter, partly due to the sometimes lished 70 years ago. An Italian ferociously flowingM ataquito immigrant, José Canepa, bought River, they had the perfect envi- the Hacienda back in 1946 and ronment for planting the vines started to produce olive oil, fine they had in their baggage as well wine and fruit. In 1998 his am- as the historical knowledge of bition to expand and produce wine cultivation that the Span- a strong brand grew. The new iards had with them, that is still name was inspired by the tradi- alive today. In spite of the fact tional culture in the district and that today it is the Italians that Vina Millaman was born. The have their hands on the rudder, word Millaman comes from the but more about that later. local language called Mapudun- gun and means ‘Golden Condor’. The temperate climate also a cre- Symbolically the bird hovers over ates the conditions for a whole the vines, with great dignity, like range of species of both flora and a guardian angel. fauna, which together form a bi- odiversity, which in turn favours In 2002 a new production facility grape cultivation and eliminates was built on the same site as the the need for pesticides. This is original. The hundred year old

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walls were carefully renovated to ity to house more than 150 oak sist of Carménère and Cabernet recreate the former Chilean colo- casks, where various vintages are Sauvignon. Amongst the more nial style. The new winery has a stored for future requirements. unusual varieties we find Zin- capacity for a million litres and Millaman is produced from care- fandel. After fermentation the is adapted for production with fully selected grapes, handpicked red wines are stored on wood in variable capacity stainless steel from vineyards with a yield of French oak casks for between 12 tanks designed to take different about 6000kgs per hectare. The and 14 months. The resultant quantities of juice. Of course the wines represent the different ‘ter- wine is spicy in its aroma, packed quality of the wine is decided out roir’ from around Curicò, Maipo with red berry fruit with a hint in the vineyard, but the hi-tech and Casablanca Valley. They have of menthol and a well-balanced equipment plays an important a rich dark colour, individual long finish with hints of toasty part in the wine production here. character, good structure and the oak. The wine cellar has the capac- essential fruitiness. They con-

Facts: chicken with root vegetables and pickled beets, gnocchi Millaman Limited Reserve Carménère with lamb and mushroom ragout. Alcohol content: 14.5% Grape Composition: 85% Carmenère and 15% Cabernet Zinfandel Millaman Res 09 Sauvignon Order range at SystemBolaget Houses range in monopoly (The Swedish state-owned Off-License chain.) Part No. 6250 Art no 74797-01 Price 149: - Price: 149: - Goes well with roast lamb and potatoes, thyme-roasted Read more about it on www.millaman.cl

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BÄSTA KÖP

FYND!

BÄSTA KÖP!

FYND!

NYTT PRIS 1 APRIL 2011 STELLENZICHT GOLDEN TRIANGLE PINOTAGE 99:- 14%VOL, 750 ML ART.NR 22273, 112KR

www.janake.se

Alkohol i samband med arbete ökar risken för olyckor.

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fine wine producer of the year 2012 Once again this year’s competition was very The following won the title of Fine Wine exciting and was won by a photo finish. It Producer of the Year 2012: was the same in every category: Champagne CHAMPAGNE METHOD: Methode Traditionelle, White Wines, Red Philipponnat, Royal Reserve Brut. Art nr 2406014 Wines and Sweet Wines. Importer: Spendrups Vin AB WHITE WINE: As usual a blind tasting was carried out, and Domaine Weinbach, Clos des Capucins, Pinot Blanc Réserve the scoring was done according to the Parker 2010. Art nr 88035-01 Importer: Prime Wine scale. This year’s jury was made up of Susann Berglund-Krantz, Karsten Thurfjell and Bo RED WINE Patriksson. They had no idea what was in the Conch y Toro, Marques de Casa Concha Syrah 2008, Art nr glasses that were served up to them on that 7561701 Importer: Concha y Toro Sweden AB beautiful afternoon on 13th February. After all the scores had been added up a winner FOX CREEK Reserve Shiraz 2007., Art nr 92113 was chosen from each category with the ex- Importer: Stellan Kramer ception of the red wines where two of them SWEET WINES achieved exactly the same scores. Oremus, Tokaji Cuvée, Late Harvest 2007 Art. Nr 75820-02 Importer: Janakewinegroup This year’s competition was extremely even and according to the jury, attained collectively a very high standard of Fine Wines. Many thanks to all of the Importers who nominated the producers and their wines for this year’s contest. Welcome back next year! 25 INTERNATIONAL

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INTERNATIONAL wine DININGseptember 2011 INTERNATIONAL

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“yes please, i´m driving!” A conversation with Rebecka Blomberg and Märta Kuylenstierna from the SystemBolaget Off-Licence Chain

A little advertisement caught Which non-alcoholic drinks sell some restaurants have introduced my eye with this headline: “Yes best at the present time? please, I’m driving.” them onto their wine lists.” And it features a picture of a bot- 1. Non-alcoholic Strawberry wine tle of wine. You who are responsi- 2. Carlsberg’s non-alcoholic beer There a lot of people who are very health conscious and for them it’s ble for the non-alcoholic selection 3. Chapel Hill at the SystemBolaget, what’s your the obvious thing to do, to try new opinion of that? and better alcohol products that What’s the position on the sales really promise quality. Do you “We feel that promoting sales of of non-alcoholic beverages in the have anything you’d like to add to rest of the world? non-alcoholic beverages is posi- that? tive,” says Märta. “And it’s a re- “Here in Sweden we’re at a very “Non-alcoholic drinks is the minder that you can enjoy your- advanced stage with our range of group of products that is increas- self without alcohol,”Rebecka non-alcoholic products. I would ing the most in the entire System- adds. say that we are at the forefront Bolaget’s range of beverages. Sales “Today we have a broad range globally,” says Märta. “For exam- rose by 26 percent during 2011.” on offer, about 35 non-alcoholic ple, we’re going to introduce nine products - everything from beer different apple juices during 2012 and wine to cocktails. They all – eight Swedish and one French one from Normandy. Apple juice go very well in combination with >>> good food.” is very popular right now and

29 INTERNATIONAL the systembolaget will be launching the following natural wines from the 2nd april

Varuslag Land Namn Årgång Producent Oranget vin Italien NOT 2009 Az. Agr. Paraschos Oranget vin Italien Coste di Riavolo 2007 San Fereolo Rött vin Italien Dolcetto di Dogliani 2010 2010 Cascina Corte Rött vin Italien Barbera 2009 2009 Cascina Corte Rött vin Italien San Fereolo 2001 San Fereolo Rött vin Italien Barolo Serralunga 2007 Ferdinando Principiano Rött vin Italien Foradori Terroldego 2009 Foradori Rött vin Italien Amarone 2008 Corte Sant'Alda Rött vin Frankrike Gauby Calcinaires Rouge 2010 Domaine Gauby Rött vin Frankrike Gauby Vielles Vignes Rouge 2009 Domaine Gauby Rött vin Frankrike Morgon Cuvée Classique 2010 Jean Foillard Rött vin Frankrike Morgon Côte du Py 2010 Jean Foillard Rött vin Frankrike Morgon Cuvée 3.14 2009 Jean Foillard Rött vin Frankrike Matassa Cuvéede Romanissa 2009 Domaine Matassa Rött vin Frankrike Morgon 2010 Domaine Marcel Lapierre Rött vin Italien Brunello di Montalcino 2007 Santa Maria Vitt vin Italien Fontanasanta Manzoni 2010 Foradori Vitt vin Frankrike Pattes Loup Chablis 2010 Domaine Pattes Loup Vitt vin Frankrike Matassa 2009 Domaine Matassa

FINE WINE on your Reader Pad Now’s the time to fill up your reader pad with some content. You can download Fine Wine as a Pdf file and read it on the reader. Please pass this on to friends and acquaintences.

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the swedish alcohol policy in europe Words and Pictures: Christopher Jarnvall

It was like a self-fulfilling prophesy.T he very same day that I read that some Spanish regional police had caught one in every ten drivers dur- ing Christmas and the New Year for driving under the influence of al- cohol, I received a press release from our government’s information office. It said that the Swedish Infrastructure minister was going to Spain to attend a seminar on TrafficS ecurity and deliberations with her Spanish counterpart.

All well and good. I’m sure that quality. When it comes to beer On the other hand there are some the Spaniards can learn this and and spirits it’s a bit of a ‘Cinder- who starting to wonder if their that from the Swedes when it ella’ situation. They could use a operations are always so well comes to driving and alcohol. Or bit more PR to somehow counter- controlled and indeed restric- perhaps more realistically the ex- balance the importation of prod- tive. What I mean is, when the act opposite! However, I couldn’t ucts from Germany. Now that the SystemBolaget tried to move stop myself from thinking about Euro is valued quite low, this then into the Wine Club’s operation Swedish politics in a European is more than a certainty. System- sphere, and deliver goods to peo- context; they question our taxes Bolaget’s sales of spirits actually ple’s doors, there are those who which sooner or later leads you to fell during 2011. It’s not difficult ask themselves, How do we know the SystemBolaget chain of state- to guess where that shortfall was that there are only old and infirm owned off-licenses and their op- made up. The company does eve- people at home and not some al- erations - which is dependent on rything it can to maintain its po- coholic who’s found an easy way a reasonable price level as well as a sition, but the more they do the to shop? Most importantly is the good selection of products. I hap- greater the risk of drawing atten- question “what’s happened to the pen to think that the SystemBola- tion to themselves from Brussels SystemBolaget?” Has it become get works really well, particularly and undermining its own mis- a player on the market, just like if you’re interested in wine. Much sion statement, which is to run all the rest of the EU? Why do we of their operation is actually built a controlled, restrictive and legal need to retain our monopoly in around wine. Then the off-licence operation. The legality of the Sys- Sweden? Cannot other well prov- becomes a veritable Eldorado with temBolaget’s different activities is en companies do the same job as their wealth of knowledge and naturally clear-cut. the SystemBolaget? As I said, I like >>> 31 INTERNATIONAL

the SB and would like to see their stores remain a dominant factor in the Swedish alcohol marketplace.

I don’t necessarily mean as a mo- nopoly, but as a strong presence to maintain the level of know-how and the product range, in which case they should open up more stores all around Sweden. I am of- ten in the west of the country, at places close to the Norwegian bor- der. The stores there vary in size, quality of service as well as prod- uct knowledge. It is very pleasant to hold a conversation about wine with someone who understands and enjoys it. There is a place called Tocksfors, right up against the Norwegian border that doesn’t have an off-licence at all. During the last few years along route E18, a couple of farms have opened a barn to sell just about anything you want wine then you have to all the time. The SystemBolaget you can think of. They even sell make your way to a place called should really get its act together meat from the four corners of Årjäng 15 miles away. This is not here and see to it that these good the world - I found, for example, good enough; we should be show- folk get to enjoy a decent wine Capital deer and Zebra steaks. ing the public that wine and food with their venison instead of try- Now wouldn’t it have been nice belong together. I don’t think it’s a ing to pull the carpet out from un- to be able to buy a wine to com- question of demographics because der other people with initiative in plement the Zebra steaks, a South expectant Norwegian custom- the area, or even the Moonshiners! African Syrah for example? But if ers are swarming over the border

Världspremiär för En Värld av Vin på nätet All världens vinländer, regioner, viner och producenter i en dator nära dig. Registrera dig gratis på www.envarldavvin.se. Välkommen hälsar Mikael Mölstad.

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33 INTERNATIONAL wine clubs are here to stay by Christopher Jarnvall

More and more wine clubs have sprouted up in Sweden. Is it because of the wine consumer’s increased interest in wine and a desire for better service? Would you like wine delivered to your door? Or is it all about the importer’s way of getting around the state owned off-licens- es, the SytemBolaget, so that they pocket the mark-up themselves?

Well, I still think we should believe choose a lifestyle where good, se- for itself, and the customers get in the Swedish people’s interest in lect and reasonably priced wines their money refunded if the wine wine and opportunity to widen are part of the dining culture,” is not appropriate,” he tells me. the range of good wines and servic- says Mark Majzner. He points “That sounds very generous even es offered to them. The price differ- out that in general Swedes prefer if I personally have ordered wine ences when it comes to wine would the slightly more expensive wines from the club’s wine list and didn’t not be enough to shop outside the through the club, where they per- like it. Do I get my money back?” parameters of the monopoly. Of- haps would not have done so at I asked, surprised. ten the off-license’s wine prices are “Yes, we want the customers to unbeatable. Swedes like to shop at be satisfied. A bad wine can ruin the monopoly because the service is a whole meal, so we don’t want to good and the products reasonably be paid for the wrong selection,” priced. But we’re not opposed to Mark assures me. trying new ways of tracking down interesting wines. In spite of every- At the present time Mark’s Wines thing the SystemBolaget does have have 200,000 members over the its limitations, and the clubs actu- the off-license. If he or she is a bit whole of Sweden and offers eve- ally offer wines from lesser known pushed for time they may have to ryone individual advice as well as yet excellent producers. grab the first wine they can with- the satisfaction guarantee. Mark out bothering to consider wheth- Majzner is convinced that activi- Recently Sweden’s largest wine club er it goes well with the planned ties with Swedish wine clubs will changed its name to Mark’s Wines menu or not. continue to grow in Sweden. (previously the Australian Wine “But I know that the off -license “You don’t anticipate any prob- Club) and are a part of Antipodes staff are generally knowledgeable lems?” I ask, “Particularly from Wines. It was founded by Mark about their products, particularly the SystemBolaget monopoly?” Majzner in 2004. There is an in- the wines, regardless of where you “No I don’t see any problems at creasing demand for home deliv- buy it, north or south of this long all. We follow the Swedish legisla- eries of beverages in Sweden and country of ours.” tion and we feel our organization the market has expanded greatly is improving all the time. We’ve in recent years. Mark points out that Mark’s Wines got satisfied customers!” he tells focuses on being proactive when it me triumphantly! “Membership in wine clubs in Swe- comes to releasing information and For more information on Mark’s den is spreading like wild fire as not waiting until a customer asks. wine club go to: more and more Swedish people “Our growing membership speaks http://marksviner.se/

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35 INTERNATIONAL WebAuc tion special

Peter Thustrup om Welcome To on the Online the Web Auction Web Auction Special Stockholm A Fine Wine Magazine Project 12th - 14th March 2012

The year 2012 starts with the spotlight squarely on what is happening in relation to the online sales 120187 - 1989 Château Pétrus of Fine Wines and whiskeys worldwide in terms Château Pétrus 1989 of ideas and tips about investment. After having Pomerol gone through a number of years with poor equity Stored in private cellar markets, reduced growth or none at all, investors u. hf of all ages are now looking around for lucrative 1 bt opportunities for return on investment (ROI) and Full of wonderful fat creamy fruit while at the this includes the internet as well. In the coming same time good tannin structure. It’s making the editions throughout this year, we will continue to most of its journey but in the fullness of time will keep an eye on this development as well as moni- be much finer. The amazing world of the Petrus’s toring the sales of Rare Fine Wines and Whiskies plateau seems to be justifying itself, I expect much online. more finesse in the future. Bidding price 18000 Swedish crowns Would you like to join and be a part of this exciting Bidding price 18000 Swedish crowns new development? If you have any comments or 120197 - 1955 Château Lafite Rothschild ideas on this, please feel free to send an email to: Château Lafite Rothschild 1955 [email protected] Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé Stored in private cellar An exciting and interesting u. hs market for new investments Bin soiled label, will be opening up. 1 bt You’re most welcome to press One of the best wines I have ever tasted. A combi- nation of fruit from both red and black berries, Enter and join us. Ove Canemyr Editor in Chief coffee and old leaves. A fine tight structure, the Fine Wines International flavours alternate in the mouth, playing with the www.finewine.nu taste buds. This is a radiant wine with fantastic length - you couldn’t wish for anything better. But as always, the deciding factor is how the wine has been stored. At best it can be 100/100. The Estimate 5000 Swedish crowns.

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WebAuction special

120202 - Château Pétrus 120215 - 1979 Château Margaux Château Pétrus 1980 Château Margaux 1979 Pomerol Margaux, 1er Grand Cru Classé Stored in private cellar Stored in private cellar u. hf u. ts Slightly bin-soiled label 1 bt 1 bt An excellent, now mellow, Chateau Margaux. The This is one of my absolute favourites. It has always first really good vintage since Mentzepoulous been great, gentle, and full of fruit. Completely bought Margaux. Good, clean and sophisticated different from its cousin from the left bank. It’s with fine fruit and good length with a splash of frequently been a little dehydrated and angu- tobacco and black currant. lar. The last time I tried it was 2010 in Tokyo. Now 92/100 after 30 years it’s beginning to come to fruition. Estimate 1400 Swedish crowns It’s thinned out a bit, but still a beautiful wine. 90/100 120325 - 1989 Château La Mission The Estimate: 4000 Swedish crowns Haut-Brion Château La Mission Haut-Brion 1989 120203 - 1987 Château Pétrus Pessac-Léognan (Graves), Cru Classé Château Pétrus 1987 Stored in private cellar Pomerol 2 bts Stored in private cellar A real thunderously good wine, soft, smoky, full One slip label: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines, New York of the taste of berries and coffee, maybe even 2 bts dark chocolate. This is the wine to drink for sen- Unfortunately a wine that has become a little sual pleasure. A wine to remember. thin, slightly bitter. 100/100 No joy at all. Unfortunately I cannot recommend this at all. Estimate: 12000 Swedish crowns 81/100 Estimate 6000 Swedish Crowns >>> 37 INTERNATIONAL

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120373 - 1982 Château Mouton 120731 - 1981 Château Lafite Rothschild Rothschild Château Lafite Rothschild 1981 Château Mouton Rothschild 1982 Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé Stored in private cellar Stored in private cellar Stained labels 1 bt 7 A wine that is considered to be one of the best A really good classic Lafite, well-balanced, fine, they have ever made. quite complex fruit. One can sense a little smoke But I wonder if it is a really good wine. Balanced, and softness. Quite good length. Tasted 4 times. fine fruit and length, but I feel it lacks a little 90/100 complexity to be really worth a top grade mark. Estimate: 12600 Swedish Crowns 92/100 Estimate: 6000 Swedish crowns 121292 - Red France Vieux Château Certan 1983 120374 - 1988 Château Pétrus Pomerol Château Pétrus 1988 Stored in private cellar Pomerol One slightly scuffed label Stored in private cellar 2 bts 1 bt Soft and pleasant, nice ripe fruit. It opens up af- A tough year. Good fruit, a little bit square, it ter about 30 mins, and becomes rounder.90/100 would benefit from decanting at least one hour Estimate: 1200 Swedish Crowns before drinking. After this you have a really clas- sic Bordeaux. It can probably be compared to a La- 121472 - 1990 DRC Richebourg tour. Richebourg 1990 Estimate: 6000 Swedish crowns DRC, Côte de Nuits, Grand Cru Stored in private cellar Château La Mission Haut-Brion 1974 Soiled label Pessac-Léognan (Graves), Cru Classé 2 bts Stored in private cellar Typical Pinot Noir, with wonderful fruit, a little Stained labels spicy, and fine oak. 3 bts Soft, dense with a fine and fantastic balance, this Not bad but no “biggy”, it’s bit unbalanced and is a great wine. rough, with not enough fruit for the tannins. I tried a day later several times and funnily The last time I tried it was about 10 years ago. Per- enough it didn’t keep. haps it’s a little softer now, though the fruit has There was only acidity and roughness left, which almost disappeared. tells me that this is wine that should be drunk 83/100 now. It will not improve. Estimate: 2100 Swedish Crowns 93/100 Estimate: 20000 Swedish Crowns >>>

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123095 - 1959 Château Lafite Rothschild Château Lafite Rothschild 1959 Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé Stored in private cellar u. vts 1 bt It was more than 10 years ago, so this has prob- ably lost a bit since then, but still wonderful, finely balanced, and a length that is to be expect- ed. But this has already reached its top. To drink this today you really have to love old wines. It is probably lovely if it’s been well stored, but it’s more elegant than yummy! 94?/100 Estimate: 10000 Swedish Crowns

123098 - Château Latour Château Latour 1959 Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé Stored in private cellar u. ts 1 bt Unbelievable, perfect, fantastic body, pure, but it needs a whole two hours to open up. Long, su- perb, magic, intensive, but elegant and refined at the same time. 99/100 Estimate: 12000 Swedish Crowns

123108 - 1971 Château Lafite Rothschild Château Lafite Rothschild 1971 Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé Stored in private cellar u. bn Solied label Aristocratic, good fruit on the nose, tempting. Soft and fine on the palate, perfect balance. Finesse in the fruit and structure, should be drunk on its own. It’s too discreet to be drunk with, for example, cheese. 87/100 Estimate: 1600 Swedish Crowns

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Online Fine Wine auctions

Text Stuart George

Online wine sales are appealing to auctioneers because they facilitate 24/7, multi-lingual, multi-currency, completely anonymous trading to clients across the world.

Another advantage of the Internet is that it can be used for The estimate here is just £200-300 (SKR2,085-3,125). No expla- the sale of single bottles, less sought-after names and less nation is given for the bottle’s “recent capsule”. fashionable vintages that are not always suitable for a live auction. For example, at Zachys’ online sale that closed on From a much superior year, 1900 Lafite was sold mainly in 26th February there were Argentinean, Australian, Austrian, bulk and none was bottled at the château itself. Christie’s Chilean and Oregon wines – doubtless all very drinkable – sold a bottle in October 2011 for $4,000 (SKR26,290), which that would never be offered at a live auction. is close to the estimated £2,000-3,000 (SKR20,845-31,265) here. Zachys There is one great treasure available at Zachys, though – Sotheby’s Quinta do Noval 1931, one of the greatest Ports ever made. Despite being a mediocre vintage, 1902 Lafite made an It averaged about $1,600 (SKR10,515) from nine bottles sold unprecedented $18,730 (SKR123,100) at Sotheby’s offer- at auctions in 2011. ing of Lafite wines ex-cellars inH ong Kong in October 2010. Hitherto this wine had typically fetched $1,000- Acker Merrall & Condit 2,000 (SKR6,570-13,145) and is estimated here £500-700, Acker Merrall & Condit’s 3rd March live sale in New York or SKR5,210-7,295. The equally dire 1916 (£400-600) made City – with online bidding available of course – confirms $35,000 (SKR 230,034) at that auction and the much better the company’s move towards offering more Burgundy to 1918 $22,500 (SKR147,880). More recently the 1918 made its largely Asian client base. Bordeaux barely features in a $3,000 (SKR19,720) at AMC in NYC in December 2011.The sale weighted towards Burgundy, Champagne, the Rhône London estimate is £1,600-2,000 (SKR10,515-13,145). and California. The shift towards Burgundy is epitomised by the catalogues issued for February auctions from the major There are also bottles available of Cheval Blanc 1947, Mou- houses: they all have Burgundy lots on the cover. ton Rothschild 1945 and Latour 1961. But arguably the most desirable claret at this auction is Château Margaux 1900, de- Christie’s scribed by Michael Broadbent as, “The greatest Margaux of the period.” Christie’s London sale on 8th March – also with online bid- ding – offers 411 lots that include some very fine and rare The six bottles on offer, estimated at £3,000-4,000 wines from “a superb private collection” sourced in “Central (SKR31,265- 41,690) each, are a “1989 Nicolas release… Pil- Germany”. The old Lafites will be a test of that château’s let-Will labels… good appearance.” brand strength in a much-softened market. “Pillet-Will” pertains to Vicomte Pillet-Will, who in 1879 pur- Lafite 1882 comes from a dreadful vintage that was made chased the Margaux estate from Emily MacDonnell, a Scot- at the height of the Phylloxera epidemic. According to Wine tish lady-in-waiting of the Empress Eugénie and the wife of Market Journal, only three bottles have been sold at auction the son of the previous owner Alexandre Aguado, Marqués since 2003 – and always through Christies. The ’82 was last de Las Marismas. The Vicomte owned Margaux until 1920 sold in December 2008 for the equivalent of $1,200 (SKR7,890).

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and the 1900 is undoubtedly the finest wine made under SKR5,000 is sure to attract interest. A few bottles have made his stewardship. their way to Hong Kong over the last three years or so and no wonder – it is acclaimed as the greatest wine of an out- None has been sold at auction since November 2010, when standing vintage and remains probably the most sought- it made $14,500 (SKR95,300) at an Acker Merrall & Condit after of all Californian “cult” wines. The last bottle to be sold sale in Hong Kong, the highest ever bottle price for this at auction was at Acker Merrall’s January 2012 sale in Hong wine at auction. According to a 2008 Acker Merrall cata- Kong when it made the equivalent of SKR5,260. logue there are two château-bottlings of Margaux 1900, a “Premier Vin” and a “2ème Vin” – but I have never seen this Sotheby’s hong kong suggested anywhere else. The end of March and beginning of April sees Sotheby’s host two auctions in Hong Kong. “The Classic Cellar from Systembolaget- Auktionsverk a Great American Collector IX” is the ninth (ostensibly The extensive Systembolaget- Auktionsverk auction in anonymous) offering of wines from Aubrey McClendon, Stockholm on 12th-14th March includes many single- and co-founder of Chesapeake Energy, which today is the sec- mixed-bottle lots, which are often good value for money ond largest producer of natural gas in the United States. and – compared to full OWC cases – a relatively inexpen- McClendon made billions but he overreached in 2008 and sive way of acquiring fine wines. was forced to sell most of his shares in Chesapeake to meet margin calls. Ever since then he has been auctioning his Of particular interest and value is a four-bottle, four-vin- wine collection to raise much-needed cash. tage vertical (1996-1999) of Tignanello that includes the much-vaunted 1997 vintage. The combined value of these The sale of “Finest & Rarest Wines, Including Wines Direct wines would typically be SKR2,900+, so an from Château Angélus, Louis Roederer and Colgin Cel- estimate of SKR2,000 is likely to receive lars” on 1st April is a pleasant surprise because somebody plenty of bids. close to Château Angélus once told me, “Regarding an of- fering of Angélus from the château, … It is complicated as Not much Californian wine is seen at the château has very little stock of wine left…”. Doubtless sales outside the USA but the bottle of James Bond’s preference for Angélus in Casino Royale will 1974 Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Martha’s cause a stampede. Vineyard offered here at an estimate of

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SOTHEBY’S HONG KONG 2012 SPRING SALESERIES TO BE HELD FROM 31 MARCH TO 4 APRIL

AUCTION HIGHLIGHTS 31 MARCH & 1 APRIL Château Léoville Lascases 1982 (pictured above) The Classic Cellar from a Great American Collector IX (31 Est: HK$22,000 – 32,000 / US$2,750 – 4,000 (12 bottles) March) Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select 1994 The ninth offering from the Classic Cellar features some of Est: HK$24,000 – 32,000 / US$3,000 – 4,000 (12 bottles) the finest Bordeaux, Champagne and Californian wines. Im- portant quantities of mature Bordeaux from top Châteaux Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 1990 and great vintages such as 1982 are on offer alongside a Est: HK$12,000 – 18,000 / US$1,600 – 2,250 (6 magnums) spectacular range of prestige cuvée Champagnes and Cali- fornian legends to satisfy Asia’s thirst for an increasingly di- verse selection of wines.

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Finest & Rarest Wines Including Wines Di- Château Angélus – Vertical Lot of 6 Magnums (1989, 1990, rect from Château Angélus, Louis Roeder- 1998, 2000, 2005, 2009) er and Colgin Cellars (1 April) Est: HK$34,000 – 50,000 / US$4,250 – 6,500 Provenance is the key feature of this auc- tion with wines coming direct from the Château Angélus – Vertical Lot of 12 Bottles (1985, 1986, cellars of three world class producers. 1988, 1989, 1990, 1993, 1995, 1996, 1998, 2000, 2005, 2009) Highlights include young and mature vin- Est: HK$30,000 – 44,000 / US$3,750 – 5,500 tages from Château Angélus, one of the Louis Roederer Cristal 1990 (pictured at right) most desirable wines from Bordeaux right Est: HK$42,000 – 65,000 / US$5,500 – 8,500 (12 bottles) bank, pristine Champagnes from Louis Colgin Herb Lamb – Vertical Lot of 16 Bottles (1992 to 2007) Roederer, maker of the legendary Cristal Est: HK$34,000 – 50,000 / US$4,500 – 6,500 as well as a full range of wines including rare verticals and horizontals many with Colgin Cariad 2005 (pictured left) special edition wooden cases from Colgin Est: HK$9,000 – 14,000 / US$1,200 – 1,800 (6 bottles) Cellars of Napa Valley. + http://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/2012/wine-hk0395/over- view.html

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SOTHEBY´s London March sale

Sotheby’s March 21st Finest and Rarest Wines auction in London features three great collec- tions that together epitomise the appeal of buying wine at Sotheby’s. The Bordeaux Wine Bank Collection kicks off the sale with parcels of First Growth, Classed Growth, Second Wines and Right Bank Claret from 2000-2007. The Adrian Bowden Collection Part III gives buyers another chance to capture rarities and wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy, The Rhône Valley and Australia from this magnificent cel- lar. A stunning ensemble of Bordeaux, Bur- gundy, Champagne and German Wine comes from the aptly named Classic Collector’s Cel- lar whilst the remainder of the sale includes Burgundy from Domaine de la Romanée Con- ti and Henri Jayer, Rhône from Guigal and J. L. Chave and further parcels and mixed cases of Bordeaux from the last four decades. http://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/2012/ finest-and-rarest-wines-l12703/overview.html

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Business and pleasure?

These days it’s really important for people to invest their money wisely and in something that promises a good return. We all want to hedge our bets to shore up our old age or allow for that round-the-world trip, or buy the dream house we´ve been promising ourselves, or just make some dreams come true. Traditional investments have been stocks and bonds, real estate, and so on and these are areas that still attract interest. However, today’s investors have found new opportunities and have greater vision than to savour Single Malt Whisky.

I read in the FT (pink broadsheets) recently that for the 11th consecutive year Swedes have reduced their ‘Stocks & Shares’ investments and I’m left wondering why. One can ponder the cause of this, but more to the point is where or what shall we spend our savings on nowadays?...Malt Whisky? This Editor can recall back to the turn of the century, when the Millenium ticked over and The Macallan launched their 52-year-old, for €2000 a bottle (via the SystemBolaget off –license chain). This was something very new on the Swed- ish market. Sure, we´ve heard of expensive whisky before, but a pot of grain liquor that´d been on the wood since the postwar period was truly something special and Sweden purchased more than 50 bottles. You could say that after this the investment trend began to speed up. A few years later several producers launched some even earlier prod- ucts, marketing them as unique and rare bottles.

Today, 2012, the market has entered a new phase. Malt Whisky is on everyone’s lips. New whisky clubs are pop- ping up around the country, Whisky fairs abound and it has become good manners to enjoy a little “peg” whenever you feel like! We have become discerning, we have our fa- vourites, and we know pretty much where these expensive drams originate, how they´ve been stored and in what type of cask . select producers. Some distilleries have stopped burning You could possibly draw parallels to the great wine-explo- alcohol years ago. But there are still barrels in existence and sion of the 80`s.What should we invest in and how do we it is these golden drops that last for many years. Secondly, go about it? Think carefully about how much you want to operating distilleries, burning alcohol every day and there risk, and in what product - Port Wine, Champagne, top Bor- are even older barrels, that they empty now and again, to deauChateaux, watches, art, vintage cars etc. In general it´s supply the world’s whiskey aficionados with something usually older and limited-edition series, and from a very few they long for! To be blunt, it’s important to find 7-10 pro- >>> 45 INTERNATIONAL

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ducers with older casks which will generate interest in these Now back to The Dalmore. If you had bought their The Dal- delicious drops of single malt whisky. more 62 (released 2002), The Dalmore Sirius (2009) and The Now don´t go running off now to the first off-license and Dalmore 64 (2010), they would have cost you £ 129,500 in buy up the oldest bottles they have in stock! Read this care- total. Today, well into 2012, they have a market value of ap- fully first and decide for yourself how much you want to set proximately £ 265,000, an increase of a stunning 105% - for aside and also, how long are you willing to wait for your three bottles! ROI ? As in all other forms of investment, there is always a small chance that the world wants something else, but re- Investing in limited editions. member, nothing ventured - nothing gained! There is a dis- So that you have a fighting chance to make money on your tillery which regularly launches small limited edition series investment, the principle should be a so-called limited edi- of high-quality malt whisky, The Dalmore. In 2011 they sold tion, preferably as few bottles as possible, preferably cask- four of the most expensive bottles of whisky ever recorded, strength and a popular vintage. Keep up to date on the thereby gaining an unofficial world record.T he Dalmore 62 various distilleries’ web sites and see what´s in the pipeline. was sold for £125,000 and there were three bottles in the se- Another useful option is to go over to Scotland, visit their ries; The Dalmore Trinitas went for £120,000 and £ 100,000. favorite distilleries and select a locality. And be aware that many distilleries only sell their rare editions at the distillery Other renowned distilleries include The Macallan, Jura, Glenfarclas, Spring Bank and some others who periodically How do you keep track of your investments? There are quite release a series of limited editions. So is there a market for a few sites “in the know” that monitor the market regularly, investments in Scottish single malt whisky? The answer is a and here are a few: The Stockholm Auction Works in con- resounding YES. One shining example is, if you had invested junction with the state monopoly, Bonhams, Whiskybay, £ 100,000 back in 2008, in the 250 most sought-after bot- The Martin Green Whisky Consultancy, McTears, and Whisky tles of single malt Scotch whisky, these now have a mar- Auction. (Search online but check carefully to ensure you do ket value of £ 190,530. Had you done the same thing with not dispose of your goodies unnecessarily.) the Top 100 it would be worth £ 237,540. Finally - had you selected the 10 highest “ranked” bottles, they would have Finally don´t make the same mistakes that I and others are netted you about £ 400,370 (a remarkable gain of 300%), in constantly doing by purchasing a bottle when the opportu- only three or four years. nity arises! Buy two or more of course! Then with the great- est pleasure and anticipation you open one of them. Enjoy How to proceed? the expensive necetar knowing full well that there are more First and foremost, you must have a genuine interest, as bottles in the cellar, and when you’ve emptied your bottle a consumer, in whisky. If the market should roll over and a few weeks later, the value of your heirloom collection has collapse one day, you will have at least a full drinks cabinet increased all on its own while you were enjoying the Scot- with superb malt whisky to enjoy at your leisure! Patience tish gold safe in the knowledge that you have made a good is also a good feature - don’t expect your bottles to gain in investment! Twice! value overnight!

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