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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 1977 Volume.28 No.4

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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 1977 Volume.28 No.4 ISSN 0037-9832 VOL 28 NO 4 APRIL 1977 Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Contents Page ORIGINAL SCIENTIFIC PAPERS Measurement of biochemical parameters in the stratum corneum Michel Kermici, Catherine Bodereau and Guy Aubin 151 A new approach to the theory of adsorption and permeability of surfactants on kera- tinic proteins: the specific behaviour of certain hydrophobic chains J. Garcia Dominguez, J. L. Parra, Ma R. Infante, Carlos M. Pelejero, Francisco Bala- guer and T. Sastre 165 Evaluation of O/W emulsion stability through zeta potential— I Devraj Rambhau, D. S. Phadke and A. K. Dorle .............................................................................. 183 INDEX TO ADVERTISERS Journal o f the Society o f Cosmetic Chemists Voi. 28 No. 4 1977 We shape surfactants for industries ...and individuals. Organic surfactants a re the business of inhibitorsforcuttingoilsto skin-friendly foam Dutton &Reinisch. boosters for bubble baths. are constantly developing newderiva- If you wa nt the pu rest, most accu rately pre- tivesfor particular industries. Often we tailor-make' pa red compounds,tell Dutton & Reinisch your a compound fora particularclient who needs requirements. Maybe we already produce the sur­ specific modifications. factant you need. If we don't, well developa new And our products range from corrosion one specially foryou. Just call § D u tto n & Reinisch Ltd. Specialists in Surfacta nt Chemistry London Sales:130Cromwell Road, London SW7 4HB Tel:01-3737777.Telo;;:23254 ' -Yorks: Fiimby, M ar. port Gjmberland.Tel:Muryport3333.Telex:64217 ® s Cosmetic Ingredients Among our extensive range: Allantoin Preservative Bromochlorophen Oxynex-Antioxydant Dihydroxyacetone Sorbitol!! liqui. Eusolex®- UV- Filter Thioglycollic;c aci insect - Repellent Vitamin Active ingredients for cosmetics MERCK THE QUALITY YOU CAN TRUST Offers and technical information on request: E Merck, Darmstadt/Federal Republic of Germany Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists yol. 28 No. 4 1977 INDEX TO ADVERTISERS A merican C holesterol Products, Inc. iv D utton and R einisch Li m i t e d ....................................... Inside Front Cover M acfarlan Smith Limited ....................................... Inside Back Cover M e r c k .......................................................................................... i M erck, Sharp and D ohme iii N orda International Limited ii Sun C hemicals (S. Black) Limited Outside Back Cover \ / %J \ ; l\[ordaf International is proud to supply the cosmetic industry with quality fragrances NORDA INTERNATIONAL, LTD. Stirling Road, Slough, SLI 4TA Telephone Slough 26864-5-6-7. TELEX: 847236. Cables: Norda Slough ii Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Voi. 28 No. 4 1977 New books from Blackwell DERMATOLOGICAL PHOTOBIOLOGY: Clinical and Experimental Aspects I. A. M a g n u s m .d . f . r .c .p ., Professor of Photobiology, Institute of Dermatology, University of London. 1976. 288 pages, 35 illustrations. £9.75 The book is addressed first of all to clinical dermatologists and general physicians but should also be of interest and use to research workers in medicine, physiology, pharmacology, to pharmacists and to workers in the cosmetic industry. The basic requirements in physics and photochemistry are presented briefly and simply. THE MOLECULAR BIOLOGY OF SKIN P. D. M ie r a .r .c .s. p h .d . and D. W. K. C o t t o n p h .d . ; both of the Department of Dermatology, University of Nijmegen, The Netherlands. Foreword by A. R o o k m .d . f .r .c .p . 1976. 488 pages, 99 illustrations. £14.50 The book gives an integrated picture of the biology of skin. Its intention is to bring together the biologist who is interested in skin but who has no clinical background, and the dermatologist who wishes to extend his understanding of skin in molecular terms. Blackwell Scientific Publications _____ Oxford London Edinburgh Melbourne_____ The Merck Index 9th edition * World-renowned encyclopaedic * Cross-index of 50,000 work on chemicals and drugs synonyms * Approximately 2 0 0 0 pages * 500 organic ‘name’ reactions * Monographs of 10,000 chemicals, * Thumb-indexed for easy drugs, and biologicals reference A work of high-quality printing and binding, The Merck Index is available from scientific booksellers in most parts of the world. The UK price is £13.90. MSD MERCK SHARP DOHME Merck Sharp & Dohme Limited,|Hoddesdon, Hertfordshire 764569 iii The advantages of dealing with Amerchol are plain to see. If you are in the market for lanolin derivatives and Amerchol products chemical specialties, Amerchol is the logical a c e t u l a n * — Acetylated lanolin alcohols choice. We offer you a unique combination of a m e r c h o l * - Multisterol extracts great products and services. All backed up by our a m e r la t e * - Lanolin fatty acid derivatives worldwide network of distributors, as well as our a m e r o x o l * - Alkoxylated fatty alcohols manufacturing plant in Vilvoorde, Belgium. a m e r s c r e e n "— U.V. absorbers G LUCAM “ - Alkoxylated glucose derivatives This new facility lets us give you the same MODULAN'-Acetylated lanolin Amerchol quality while providing you with better, OHian” -Hydroxylated lanolin faster service. For a wide range of products: p o ly la n ” - Lanolin alcohol linoleate Emulsifiers. Solubilizers. Emollients. Moisturizers. SOLULAN- -Alkoxylated lanolin derivatives. Lubricants. Humectants. U.V. Absorbers. Get the best. Amerchol. For technical information o r sam ples in the ANSTEAD I United Kingdom contact: •- y D.F Anstead Ltd., Victoria House, Radford Way. Billericay, Essex CM12 ODE. England Telephone Billericay (STD.02774) 53131 Amerchol Park. Edison, New Jersey 08817 USA Telex 99410 SYNOPSES FOR CARD INDEXES The following synopses can be cut out and mounted on 127 X 76 mm index cards for referenc without mutilating the pages of the Journal. Measurement of biochemical parameters in the stratum corneum: Michel Kermici, Catherine Bodereau and Guy Aubin. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 28 151-154 (1977) Synopsis—The paper reports an original method to evaluate biochemical varia­ tions of the skin. From samplings of the stratum corneum upper layers, by stripping, enzymatic activities (lytic enzymes, deshydrogenases) have been quantitatively measured. The values determined by this method reflect the metabolic work present in the Malpighian layer. These enzymatic measurements, associated with the determination of other biochemical parameters (lipids, proteins, aminoacids) constitute an objective evaluation of the skin quality. A critical study of the method is given and some experimental results, as a function of different human skin areas and skin types, are presented. Results of experiments, on swine and human skin, will show the interest of the technique. A new approach to the theory of adsorption and permeability of surfactants on kera- tinic proteins: the specific behaviour of certain hydrophobic chains: J. G arcia D ominguez, J. L. Parra, Ma R. Infante, Carlos M. Pelejero, F rancisco Balaguer and T. Sastre. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 28 165-182 (1977) Synopsis—The sequence: detergency-adsorption-interaction-denature tion-perme- ability-irritation, caused by ionic surfactants on keratinic proteins such as stratum corneum has been studied. Adsorption and permeability of the protein or lipo­ protein structures have been investigated, and a five step mechanism is proposed to explain the way in which ionic surfactants can be transferred from the interface protein-water to the inner cells of the dermis, resulting in irritation. Two new theoretical approaches are proposed to justify the odd behaviour of the C12 anionic surfactants: solubility on hydrophobic sites, or a molecular con­ formation of the normal linear structure of the surfactant molecules in a more stable form, under conditions which give a minimum size for Cia surfactants. Evaluation of O/W emulsion stability through zeta potential—1: D evraj Ram- bhau, D. S. Phadke and A. K. D orle. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 28 183-196 (1977) Synopsis—Ageing of emulsions prepared with sodium palmitate or cetyltrimethyl- ammonium bromide under accelerated conditions such as elevated temperatures or higher centrifugal speeds resulted in an increase in mean globule diameter and decrease in viscosity and Zeta potential. A fair inverse correlation was observed between Zeta potential and ageing. The correlation between Zeta potential and mean globule diameter in sodium palmitate emulsions was not, however, as fair as v Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists VOL. 28 1977 THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS OF GREAT BRITAIN Hon. Officers and Council for 1976-77 President: D. F. W illiams, C.Chem., M.R.I.C. Immediate Past-President: F. G. Brow n, B.Sc., Ph.D. Vice-President: K. V. C urry, C.Chem., F.R.I.C. Hon. Secretary: Hon. Treasurer: A. H. N etherwood, B.Sc. G. L. Banks, B.Sc., C.Chem., F.R.I.C. Council: Mrs. L. R. Bonser, B.Sc.; Mrs. H. Butler, B.Sc.; D. R. M unden, B.Sc., C.Chem., M.R.I.C.; P. J. R othwell, B.Sc., Ph.D., C.Chem., M.R.I.C.; M. W. Steed, B Sc., C.Chem., M.R.I.C.; F. A. J. T alman, B.Sc., B.Pharm., F.P.S.; A. J. T yler, BSc., Ph.D.; Mrs. M. V. W eston, L.R.I.C.; P. J. W ilson, B.Sc., Ph.D. General Secretary : Mrs P. M. Salzedo, 56 Kingsway, London WC2B 6DX Tel: 01-242 3800 vi SYNOPSES FOR CARD INDEXES Vll in the case of emulsions prepared with cetyltrimethylammonium bromide. Changes in Zeta potential and viscosity on ageing showed a linear relation between them at all temperatures studied, in both the emulsions. Decay in Zeta potential with time at higher centrifugal speeds was linear and was dependent on speed of centrifuga­ tion. Mean globule diameter was linearly increased as Zeta potential was decreased at all centrifugal speeds studied. Emulsifier concentration studies revealed that at a critical concentration emulsions possess maximum Zeta potential.
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