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A Taste of Okinawa The 3 ‘R’s to good eating – Restaurants, Reviews & Recipes

8-page pullout STRIPES OKINAWA E OF OK DECEMBER 10 – DECEMBER 23, 2020 AST INAW A T 2 A dishes you didn’t kn anese ow abo p BY LUCIO MAURIZI, u Ja LIVE t!

he famous Land of the Rising Sun is known for so many things, it’s hard to even mention them all: culture, history, pop culture, manga, anime, T cosplay, sights, architecture...the list could go on and on. A big compo- nent of this host of things for which Japan is world famous is food. No matter where you’re from, or whether you’ve ever visited this country, chances are you’ve stumbled upon more than a few Japanese food restaurants. Many of us know of and , or . Yet Japanese food culture is much richer than that. If you’re among those who like to experience food, when you travel to another country, then, unless you’re already an expert, you’ll need some guidance to navigate through the sea of restaurants and dishes this country has to offer.

Butaniku no shogayaki The ingredients are fried in rigidly controlled by the Japa- Gyudon is a mouth watering Gyutan literally means cow 1 (ginger ) and a of chicken and nese government. Chefs who as- one-dish meal of over tongue and yaki means grilled. pig bones is later added. The pire to prepare this fish must un- (gyu = beef). Gyudon is a quick This is exactly what the dish result is a robust and satisfying dergo at least three years of very meal served in specific restau- is: grilled cow tongue. You can taste that is rarely the same. rigorous training to get their rants or in Japanese fast-food usually find this dish in yaki- In fact, not only can different license. Before being served, chains such as . niku restaurants, served with versions of this dish be found the toxic parts of the fish are re- A bawl of steamed rice is salt, or different sauces (usu- in many countries in Asia, but moved, making it safe to serve. topped with thinly sliced beef ally a lemon one) and . also within Japan. This creates An interesting fact is that and tender , simmered in The meat is thin, tasty and ten- a variety of unique styles and the liver is considered to be (a popular Japa- der. flavors that will keep you want- the tastiest part of the fish, but nese ingredient), and then sea- The dish originated in Send- ing for more! it’s also the one that can be the soned with and . ai where the owner of a Courtesy photos most poisonous. Serving Sometimes it’s served topped restaurant opened a new one, in This is one of the most com- liver was outlawed in Japan in with a lightly cooked egg. 1948, which served gyutanyaki. mon (and tasty) Japanese dish- 3 Edamame 1984. Should you try this dish, If you want to experience Since then the dish spread all es. Try it in many restaurants, you’ll certainly remain amazed a typical salary man’s over the country like wildfire. (traditional Japanese by its taste, but do careful re- lunch break, enjoy this quick Try it and you’ll know exactly restaurant/bar), in fast food search before ordering it in a and tasty dish and get back to why. chains, and even as a box restaurant (and never try to your tasks (although you prob- (a pre-prepared Japanese style prepare it by yourself). ably won’t be needing to go to lunch) found in many grocery work, you’ll definitely enjoy 9 stores and convenience stores. having more time to sightsee The word yaki means liter- 5 Gyoza and explore on a full and satis- ally “grilled”. This dish is pre- fied stomach). pared by grilling thin slices of pork dressed with a delicate Okay so they’re not really sauce of mirin, soy sauce, 7 Gyukatsu (beef ) a dish, but they are a wildly (Japanese ), granola popular food in Japan. These oil mixed with sliced are not yet mature soy beans, and ginger. still in their pods. They can The dish makes for a great be served hot or cold (at times quick and tasty meal and it’s grilled instead of boiled) and As soon as you set foot into perfect for any season. are dressed, usually, only with Japan, you’ll start seeing the salt. They make for an amaz- Gyoza are moon shaped typical Japanese style fried foods (Karaage). Karaage usu- ing appetizer. Try a few and . Another one of 2 you will find yourself reaching those dishes that can be found ally refers to chicken, but it can for more and more before you in almost every Japanese res- be found as a variety of meats, A wonderful beef varia- know it. They usually accom- taurant, regardless of their or . tion of the popular pork-based pany a meal in all izakaya, but style, but that many people The meat or fish are lightly (which we also recom- they are almost always part of miss. Although Chinese in ori- coated with wheat or po- mend you try), this is a dish of the menu in the vast majority of gin, the varieties you’ll discov- tato and deep fried in oil. deep fried breaded beef, usual- Japanese restaurants in Japan. er during your Japan stay are Sometimes the ingredients are often quite distinct from the ly served with cabbage, barley marinated prior to the coating. original. rice, soup, potato salad, It’s usually served with a slice 4 Fugu Gyoza come in several vari- and pickles. of lemon on the side, but you eties in Japan. One of the most The preparation makes for can enjoy it with or without it. popular is “yaki-gyoza”: the a tender and crunchy texture, The chicken variety is espe- This dish may look like ra- dumplings are prepared with and for a very flavorful but not cially common to stumble upon, men at first sight (and you could a filling of minced pork meat, overwhelming taste. You won’t in restaurants, street-food say it belongs to same group of cabbage, , onion, and gin- find this dish as easily as it’s carts, izakaya, convenience dishes) but it’s different and ger. They are then lightly fried, pork counterpart, but if you do, stores (and pretty much any- unique. If you want to taste until they become crunchy and you’ll be happy! where else). Karaage is cheap, something really traditional, of a nice dark-gold color. tasty and fast. Only downside? don’t miss out on this dish. Enjoy them with a dip made So good, it’s addictive! Champon is originally from 8 Gyutanyaki with soy sauce, , as it first appeared and spicy oil. there in a Chinese restaurant For those of you looking not 10 during the Meiji era (1868- only for an amazing dish, but 1912). Unlike the many differ- also for a thrilling experience, 6 Gyudon ent kinds of ramen, its fugu is the dish to try! (specifically made for this dish) The fugu is a pufferfish which are boiled in the soup itself, in- is yes, delicious, but it can also stead of being added at a later be lethal due to the presence time. of a toxin in some parts of its A great seasonal dish, Cham- body. Fugu is usually served as pon’s ingredients vary slightly sashimi, or in certain kinds of Depending on your country depending on the season (pork, Japanese nabe hot pots. of origin, this dish may appear, seafood, , or any The preparation of this fish, at glance, too atypical, but bear combination of these). due to its characteristics is with us and keep reading. DECEMBER 10 – DECEMBER 23, 2020 E OF OK STRIPES OKINAWA AST INAW A T 3 A enjoy with the rest of your food. If you’re visiting the coun- children! Once again we see dashi be- 14 Natto try you’ll want to try one of the ing one of the main ingredients. many kinds of this staple dish. Similar to gyudon, but pre- This stock is mixed with miso Hard to compare to other dish- 18 pared with pork, this is another ou d ( produced by fer- es, can be consid- es y idn popular and often neglected (by ish ’t kn menting soy beans) paste cre- ered the Japanese frittata, or d o foreigners) dish that is as cheap se w ating the famous soup. Other pancake. e a as it is fast and tasty. Perfect n b ingredients are then mixed ac- The etymology of the name a o for those of you who are on the p u cordingly to preference. itself (meaning what you like or go, you can enjoy this meal in Ja t! Very often will be how you like + grilled) hints at specific restaurants, and in all served with , scallion, and the number of different ingre- Japanese-style fast food chains. . Other items, dients that can be used to pre- A bowl of rice is served with such as , shrimp, fish, pare this savory dish. a topping of deep-fried pork Known as a kind of food dis- mushrooms, potatoes, onions, The most popular varieties cutlet, egg, vegetables and con- liked by most foreigners, natto or meat can be added. of Okonomiyaki are the ones diments. is daily and widely consumed Who hasn’t seen in anime, Particularly recommended from the , and the It’s a standard dish in Japan, by most Japanese people. movies, videos, or documenta- during cold winter days, you one from Hiroshima. but you can find several kinds, The reason why most for- ries, the famous can’t leave Japan without try- like the one served with tonkat- eigners seem to not be able to Kansai okonomiyaki: ball, the onigiri? While not very ing this evergreen dish! common as a menu item in res- su sauce, the demi katsudon (a eat natto is because these fer- This is probably the pre- taurants, this is the king of the specialty of Okayama), shio- mented soy beans have a very dominant version of the dish in on-the-go dishes. You’ll find it katsudon (flavored with salt), powerful smell that most find Japan. The batter is prepared in virtually every grocery store or the miso Katsudon (original- 13 Nabe unpleasant. Furthermore, its with flour, nagaimo (a kind of and convenience store. ly from ). stickiness makes it a little weird yam), dashi (or water), eggs, The onigiri can be a simple Regardless of the variety, for many non Japanese. It is, cabbage, pork belly, octopus, rice ball flavored with spices, you’ll love this dish! though, definitely worth trying, , shrimp, or cheese, or it can be filled (and it usu- as it’s a truly Japanese food. and . ally is) with a variety of in- Natto is often served with Osaka is particularly re- gredients from vegetables, to rice (there’s also a rolled vari- nowned, in Kansai, for oko- 11 meat, fish, seafood, and more. ety you can easily find in con- nomiyaki, as it seems the dish It’s sometimes wrapped in a venience stores and sushi res- originated from there. taurants) and dipped in a few sheet of flavored or unflavored drops of soy sauce. Alternative- Hiroshima okonomiyaki: (seaweed), depending on ly it’s served with a spicy Japa- In this version (also known the region, and on one’s prefer- Nabe means cooking pot. It’s nese called . as Hiroshima-yaki or Hiroshi- ence. sometimes referred to as nabe- We will admit that it may be ma-okonomi) the ingredients Many people visiting Japan mono (literally things in a cook- hard to get used to this dish, and are not mixed, but arranged in eat mainly onigiri while sight- ing pot). The name already tells it’s a bit of an acquired taste, layers. Usually noodles such seeing given its very cheap you everything there is to know but we recommend you give as , or as well as price (usually around 100 yen) about preparation, but it can’t natto a shot, as you may find eggs and lots of sauce are add- and its availability and simplic- begin to paint a picture of the you have more of a Japanese ed as a topping. ity. This dish, known also as immense variety of nabe one palate than you had thought! kushiage is crunchy deep-fried can find in Japan. This dish can Many other kinds of this dish skewered meat, fish, or veg- Ramen be found all year round, but it’s exist in several areas across 19 etables. The etymology refers 15 ideal during cold months. Japan (Tokushima, Hamamat- to its preparation with kushi Popular both in Japanese su, Okinawa, and more), but referring to the that nabe restaurants and at home, if you’re visiting Tokyo, you’ll are used and katsu meaning the the dish is prepared by boil- have to stop by Tsukishima dis- of a cutlet of meat. ing in seasoned or unseasoned trict, famous for both okonomi- Some of the more interest- water a variety of ingredients: yaki and . The main ing kinds are the ones prepared meat, fish, shellfish, vegetables, street of this area has been re- with shoots, lotus root, and tofu. named Monja Street. You will cartilage (nankotsu), and giz- Nabe is also famous as the want to visit it to try monjanya- zard (sunagimo). All of them favorite dish of Sumo wrestlers. ki, a dish similar to okonomiya- though, are certainly worth In particular, when talking ki, but with a less dense texture Most people know ramen, tasting. Oden is a tasty, light, hot about sumo nabe, we are refer- and with different ingredients. especially for it’s world fa- On top of the different ingre- dish, you’d especially enjoy on ring to “chanko nabe.” mous instant variety, but when dients that can be used, there those cold winter days. This is Chanko nabe usually in- in Japan, you’ll be surprised are also several geographical another variety of one-pot dish- Omuraisu cludes meatballs, chicken, veg- 17 by its amazing taste (definitely varieties, such as Osaka; Tokyo es consisting of several ingredi- etables, and noodles. It’s de- not even comparable to its cup (serving also pork rib kushikat- ents (usually eggs, konjac, fish signed to be served with more counterpart) and huge amount su), where the meat is prepared cakes and daikon) served in a ingredients, in order for the of different choices. slightly differently and dressed dashi and soy soup. wrestlers to gain weight. The broth can be based on with brown sauce; Nagoya is fa- While some restaurants spe- Another notable name in the chicken, pork, beef, fish, veg- mous for its doteni (a rich miso cialize in the preparation of this nabe family is shabu-shabu. etables, and flavored with soy based dish with beef tendons, dish, you can commonly find Shabu-shabu’s name springs sauce, miso, dashi, and many intestines, and daikon (radish). oden in many Japanese fast from the movement one makes other . Usually scal- Here you can order Kushikatsu food chains, and in convenience when dipping thinly sliced lion, seaweed, tofu, and bam- with this staple dish. The re- stores. meat into the boiling pot. The boo shoots are added, but it’s gion also uses different sauces Oden can be prepared in dish is served with meat (usu- The name of this flavorful impossible to list all the differ- and batter. many different ways (and ally beef and pork), as well as sometimes even its name is dif- dish derives from the contrac- ent combinations in which this vegetables and tofu. The food ferent. In Nagoya, for example, tion of the words and dish can be served. is then enjoyed with a it may be called Kanto-ni). The rice. Omuraisu, as the name Not only each region, but 12 Miso soup dipping sauce or (a lem- in which the ingredients suggests is an omelette filled even each restaurant can have on based dressing), or with a are boiled also change depend- with and usually a different recipe, sometimes mix of the two. ing on the region. topped with ketchup. creating very original and tasty is a variation of Oden is a great, cheap, and The dish seems to have origi- meals. shabu-shabu in which the in- original dish that will never nated in Tokyo, in a western- The noodles are specifically gredients are stewed in sweet- bore you, especially if you’re style restaurant, roughly 100 made for ramen and have a ened water and soy sauce, and travelling through different cit- years ago. very distinctive texture, being enjoyed with a dip of raw egg. ies in Japan. You’ll find this dish in most soft but with a bit of a bite. Yose nabe (yose=putting to- Japanese cafes that also serve The most common soup gether), as the name implies, Okonomiyaki food, as well as in several res- stocks are miso, salt, soy sauce, is a variety of nabe in which 16 taurants. and . all things, meaning meat, fish, If you’re staying with friends Ramen is probably the most When talking about Japanese vegetables and tofu, are cooked from Japan, chances are they’ll popular shime (the last meal at food, we cannot avoid mention- together at the same time in the know how to prepare it, as it’s a the end of a day or night out). ing miso soup. This dish, served pot. It’s usually based on a soup common dish among Japanese It’s considered to be fast food, in almost any combination of of miso or soy sauce. people. and, while some kinds can be , lunch, and dinner The types of nabe available Once again, a filling, cheap, served cold, it’s usually hot, meals, is truly a staple of Japa- in Japan is truly staggering, so and tasty one-dish meal that and a godsend on cold days. nese cuisine. Simple and flavor- go look for some, experiment, will certainly be popular ful it’s an amazing side dish to and enjoy! among adult visitors, as well as SEE DISHES ON PAGE 8 STRIPES OKINAWA E OF OK DECEMBER 10 – DECEMBER 23, 2020 AST INAW A T 4 A Taste 2021 the right way STRIPES OKINAWA the eye as they are the palate. I can’t “But ever since Okinawa was returned when people, say that I liked them all as a child. But to Japan (in 1972), New Year’s foods especially the elderly and ew Year’s is Japan’s biggest these days, I find that their tradition- have caught on. Nowadays, many peo- small children, have severely and longest holiday. People take al meanings as well as the childhood ple eat Okinawan and Japanese foods choked on this densely chewy NDec. 29 through Jan. 3 off from memories they bring back make this for New Year’s.” treat. So watch out when you work to celebrate the first three days a feast that I look forward to all year Local dishes you should be on the eat mochi for the first time. But of the year praying at temples and long. lookout for in restaurants include “ra- once you try really good ozoni, shrines for the coming year. It is our You could say that, traditionally, the fute” (pork belly), “taamu” () and you will be obsessed with the awe- Christmas and Thanksgiving – a time feast really begins on New Year’s Eve, “inamuruchi” (white miso soup with some taste. This is, by far, my fa- to relax with family and friends over or “Oomisoka.”On this day, it is cus- chopped pork). While at the same time, vorite New Year’s dish. special foods and sake. tomary for Japanese to clean house to stores across the island will have tra- Then there is , which literally When I was a child, every year my bring good fortune in the coming year. ditional ’s fare on means beginning a new season and family would go to my grandfather’s (OK, this part is not a fond memory; I offer. represents the start of the new year. house in the Oita countryside to cele- always wanted to play with my friends The first three days of January are This is a set of selected dishes. It’s kind brate New Year’s with relatives. It was while my mom made me clean my called “oshogatsu.” During oshogatsu, of like a fancy bento box for the entire an important time of year when we room.) Then we eat “toshikoshi,” or “ozoni” and “osechi” are the main family that is eaten during oshogatsu, enjoyed a traditional New Year’s feast passing-year, noodles at night. dishes on a typical Japanese family’s sometimes for all three meals. around the “kotatsu,” a low table with According to tradition, we eat long table. Ozoni is a clear soup that con- They are designed to nourish and a heater underneath to keep thin noodles in hopes of a long healthy tains “mochi,” a glutinous ; wish the family well, while expressing us warm and cozy. life for the whole family in the fish cake; chicken; leafy greens; car- thanks for the new year. The foods are There are tradi- coming year. Some people eat rots; mushrooms; and maybe beautifully arranged in a “juubako,” tional Japanese homemade soba or, on Oki- more. which is traditional lacquered food box foods to ring in nawa, Okinawan soba; The soup stock varies from region with three or four tiers. the new year others eat a cup of in- to region. In most of mainland Japan it Osechi consists of foods that can be that are as stant soba noodles. may be flavored with seaweed or “bo- prepared in advance and keep for a pleasing to It does not matter, nito” (dried fish flakes). People make few days without spoiling. Traditional- Ozoni as long as it is soba miso-based ozoni in western regions ly, it ensured everyone got a three-day noodles. like Kansai. In Okinawa, instead of break, even mothers and wives who If you are lucky ozoni, people eat “nakamijiru,” a soup wouldn’t have to cook and wash dishes. enough to be in made with chitterlings. Also, most stores and restaurants used Okinawa for New From ancient times, mochi has been to be closed during oshogatsu. Year’s you’ll find a celebratory food in Japan represent- These days, some stores open Jan. elements of two ing fortune. Today, you can still see it 1 because business can be good. It is culinary traditions at traditional events and elsewhere in believed that osechi started during the to sample. Because the form of white, stacked, circular Edo Period (1603-1867) when coming of its Ryukyu King- cakes (or packaged squares at grocers) up with a variety prepared foods that dom history, Japan’s – especially this time of year. You’ll would keep for three days was a pretty southernmost islands also see a lot of mochi pounding events amazing feat. have their own indig- where large mallets are used to pound For those who don’t have a lot time or enous dishes as well as steamed rice into mochi. Although mo- desire to prepare osechi, you can order those from mainland Japan. chi is not a traditional ingredient in na- them from companies at supermarkets “In Okinawa, families gathered kamijiru, nowadays it may be added to and online. You can even order one to celebrate New Year’s with special this Okinawan dish just like at the nearest convenience store and foods that were served at ceremonies ozoni. It’s tasty but be pick it up. There is a wide variety and feast year round, not just foods for careful. available, including tradition- New Year’s,” says Yayoi Kohagura, of There have al Japanese as well as Chi- the Okinawa prefectural government. been cases nese, Western and even

Kurikinton

Nishikitamago Kazunoko Get to know your ‘osechi’ dishes Kombumaki STRIPES OKINAWA descendants. The texture is chunky and the eggs are not loose. They are marinated in a broth of bonito sechi is a decorative set of dishes eaten on New soup stock, sake and soy sauce. You can often find OYear’s. Each traditional them at sushi restaurants. Japanese dish has a special mean- Kuromame (sweet simmered black beans) is soft ing, expressing well-wishing for the and sweet. You may also notice a bit of soy sauce fla- coming year. These osechi can be found voring. Kuromame represents good health and dili- at department stores or supermarkets. Here gent work. are some of the classic dishes. Tazukuri are small sardines that have been dried Kazunoko (herring ) are tiny yellow fish and cooked in a sweet sauce of sugar, sweet rice eggs. The many eggs signify prosperity for your wine, soy sauce and sake. These are rich in calcium. DECEMBER 10 – DECEMBER 23, 2020 E OF OK STRIPES OKINAWA AST INAW A T 5 A Taste 2021 the right way Okinawan delicacies when people, as nakami pieces. especially the elderly and Nakamijiru 2. Put konnnyaku into boiling water and small children, have severely (pork guts soup) cook it for 2-3 minutes and slice them. choked on this densely chewy 3. In a bowl, put wet nakami with water treat. So watch out when you and add flour. Rub nakami with flour eat mochi for the first time. But Nakamijiru is popularly known as and rinse with running water. Repeat once you try really good ozoni, celebration food from Ryukyu King- 2 to 3 times until nakami to take out you will be obsessed with the awe- dom. The key of cooking this soup is the grease. some taste. This is, by far, my fa- you need to prepare well to take out 4. Put nakami into boiling water and vorite New Year’s dish. the smell of pork guts. The soup taste cook for 20 mins. Change into fresh Then there is osechi, which literally simple yet rich. boiling water and cook for 20 mins. means beginning a new season and Repeat three times. This is to take out represents the start of the new year. Ingredients for 4 servings: the smell of guts. This is a set of selected dishes. It’s kind Osechi Photo courtesy of Kibun Foods Inc. • 10.6 oz pork intestines and stomach or 5. When nakami is soft, drain the wa- of like a fancy bento box for the entire nakami ter. Slice nakami into 5-6 cm by 1 cm family that is eaten during oshogatsu, Disney-themed osechi. Prices range is chicken. I was also not too thrilled • 3.5 oz konnyaku pieces. Boil nakami pieces in a sauce sometimes for all three meals. from the equivalent of about $150 to about eating the same food for a couple • 4 dried shiitake mushrooms pan again. Drain and dry nakami in a They are designed to nourish and $200 for a three- to four-person osechi. days. But times, and I, have change. • 4 cups bonito flake soup stock bamboo basket or strainer. wish the family well, while expressing “This traditional Japanese food was Now I really enjoy and appreciate • 2 tbs salt 6. In a pot, boil dashi (bonito flake soup thanks for the new year. The foods are recognized on UNESCO’s Intangible osechi. It comes from the wisdom of • small soy sauce stock). Add nakami, shiitake mush- beautifully arranged in a “juubako,” Cultural Heritage list in 2013,” says my ancestors. The colors and designs • small grated ginger rooms and konnyaku. Mix soy sauce which is traditional lacquered food box Fumitoshi Kumagai, a spokesperson of each dish are works of art with • flour and salt. Simmer in low heat for 10 with three or four tiers. for osechi maker Kibun Foods Inc. meanings intended to bring good for- minutes. Osechi consists of foods that can be “Since then people have been paying tune in the coming new year. I guess 1. Soak shiitake mushrooms into water 7. Serve in a Japanese soup bowl with prepared in advance and keep for a more attention to traditional osechi. my sense of taste has grown – grown until soft. Slice them to the same size grated ginger to taste. few days without spoiling. Traditional- So they are quite popular this year. for a taste of Okinawa. ly, it ensured everyone got a three-day But character-themed osechi such as break, even mothers and wives who Disney are also popular with families wouldn’t have to cook and wash dishes. who have small children.” Also, most stores and restaurants used It’s too bad they didn’t to be closed during oshogatsu. have those fancy kiddy These days, some stores open Jan. osechi when I was 1 because business can be good. It is growing up. Hon- believed that osechi started during the estly, I was not a Edo Period (1603-1867) when coming big fan of osechi up with a variety prepared foods that as a child be- would keep for three days was a pretty cause a lot of amazing feat. the traditional For those who don’t have a lot time or foods were kind desire to prepare osechi, you can order of bland veg- them from companies at supermarkets etable dishes and and online. You can even order one I would have pre- at the nearest convenience store and ferred something Kubuirichi” • 4 tbs mirin pick it up. There is a wide variety like steak or fried • 4 tbs sake available, including tradition- (stir-fried seaweed) • 6 tbs soy sauce al Japanese as well as Chi- • 4 cups of bonito flake soup stock nese, Western and even Toshikoshi soba Okinawa is one of the most sea- weed consumption prefecture. Oki- 1. Rinse seaweed with running water, nawan have loved seaweed from wipe with kitchen towel and slice it Kurikinton long time ago. The combination of about 1.1 inch width. Boil the sea- seaweed and pork makes very rich weed for a minute and take it out. Kuromame flavor. Seaweed contains lots of di- 2. Soak shiitake mushrooms into water etary fiber which helps to clean in- until soft. Cut into pieces. testine system. 3. Put konnnyaku into boiling water and cook it for 2-3 minutes and slice them. Ingredients for 4 servings: 4. Cut fishcakes into pieces about half • 0.44 lb seaweed inch width. • 1.25 lb pork belly 5. Cut pork belly into pieces. Put oil • 7 dried shiitake mushrooms into frying pan and cook pork until • 0.44 lb konnyaku cooked. • 0.22 lb fishcake 6. And then add konnyaku, seaweed and shiitake mushrooms and stir fry. (Sauce) 7. Add sauce and cook with low heat for Get to know your ‘osechi’ dishes • 4 tbs sugar 20 mins. descendants. The texture is chunky and the eggs are Tazukuri represents praying for a large catch and a not loose. They are marinated in a broth of bonito good harvest. Don’t be afraid to eat the head! soup stock, sake and soy sauce. You can often find Kombumaki is kelp roll and stuffed with salm- them at sushi restaurants. on or chicken, which has been cooked in a Tazukuri Kuromame (sweet simmered black beans) is soft -based sauce. The name and sweet. You may also notice a bit of soy sauce fla- of kobumaki is a play on words, which voring. Kuromame represents good health and dili- mean joy in Japanese, so it’s eaten for gent work. good luck food during New Year’s. Tazukuri are small sardines that have been dried Datemaki is a Japanese-style and cooked in a sweet sauce of sugar, sweet rice CONTINUED ON PAGE 6 wine, soy sauce and sake. These are rich in calcium. CONTINUED ON PAGE 6 STRIPES OKINAWA E OF OK DECEMBER 10 – DECEMBER 23, 2020 AST INAW A T 6 A

Datemaki CONTINUED FROM PAGE 5 Tanmu Dengaku (mashed taro potato)

It is sweet mashed taro potato, which is popular as a cerebration snack or easy cerebration food in Okinawa.

Ingredients for 4 servings: • 0.9 lb taro potato OSECHI: A yearly tradition • 1 cup of hot water • 8 tbs sugar CONTINUED FROM PAGE 5 pickled in vinegar. cause it has long whiskers. • 6 tbs mirin no awazuke is spot- Also, shrimp curls when it is Kohada • small amount of salt omelet with fish paste. Be- ted shad pickled in foxtail mil- cooked like an old person. It cause the shape of datemaki let. People started using this is considered good luck be- 1. Used the steamed taro potato that you can buy at store. If resembles a scroll, it stands in osechi because it is pick- cause you will live until your it’s raw, you need to steam it. Peel the taro potato and cut for cultural development. led and can keep for many. To back bends like an old per- into pieces about 1 inch width. is sweet pota- get rid of all the small bones, Kurikinton son’s. 2. Put water and taro potato into a pot. And cook it until taro toes and chestnuts, which the fish is cut into three slices potato become soft. And add sugar. can look something like yel- and salt is added to the pickle 3. Mash with wooden stick or spoon and add mirin. Add salt low mashed potatoes. This is mixture. to adjust the taste you like. a child favorite. Kurikinton is Ebi or shrimp represents – Okinawa Information Service believed to bring you wealth long life because the color looks like be- gold. Kamaboko is a dense Kohada cake of fish paste. The combination of red and white is used on happy occasions in Japan. Another red-and- white food you’ll find is called nama- su, which is daikon radish and carrots

Seaside serves up tasty food, gorgeous views Seaside at Kadena Marina has the winning combination of excellent views and even better food! This month they are featuring a Seafood Plate with lightly breaded red cod, tossed with garlic shrimp and , and topped with a yummy sea urchin sauce. Seaside is a must-see restaurant to put on your Okinawa bucket list, whether you are a brand new or regular customer. The menu keeps old favorites but adds new limited-time specials all the time. The Seaside is an excellent option for a nice dinner out or a casual lunch! See you at the Seaside! DECEMBER 10 – DECEMBER 23, 2020 E OF OK STRIPES OKINAWA AST INAW A T 7 A

Start the year off with a Japanese tradition

STORY AND PHOTOS BY SHOJI KUDAKA, STRIPES OKINAWA

lthough there are many “good luck foods” for the new year in A this world, the majority of lo- cals on Okinawa have only one thing on their mind every New Year’s Eve: . Dec. 31 is a day for “soba joogoo,” which means soba lovers/maniacs in Okinawan dialect. It is a day when a “soba joogoo” like myself can eat as much as possible without feeling Ingredients: pork loin (1 10. Pour sweet cooking guilty, because you eat for good luck. block, 227g), pork picnic rice wine, soy sauce, Since the local is one the (1 block, 321g), pork belly and cooking sake in (1 block, 393g), raw noo- most common menu items at lo- the pot. For each con- dles (3 bags), minced and diment, make two cir- cal eateries, and there are so many steamed fish, green onion, guidebooks and websites dedicated cles around the pot as ginger, red pickled ginger, you pour. (The amount to the best soba restaurants on the soy sauce, sweet cooking of is up to island, finding a place to eat soba on rice wine and cooking sake. individual’s prefer- Dec. 31 shouldn’t be a problem. ence.) 1. Fill two pots with water. Better yet, for those planning on 11. Cover the pot with 2. Put pork loin and pork having a New Years’ Eve party at a lid and heat on a picnic in one of them and home, or just in the mood a hands-on stove about 20 to 30 experience, you can try cooking your heat it up on a stove for about 50 minutes. minutes. Make sure own Okinawa soba. 3. Roast the pork belly skin you stop before the For many Okinawans, soba made at on a grill. When it’s lightly liquid dries up in the home is just as popular as it is in res- burnt, take off the stove. pan. Sample the taste taurants, and especially so on Dec. 4. Shave the skin with a ra- and add sugar if you 31. Local supermarkets are flooded zor to remove fuzzy hair. prefer to make it taste with people planning to serve the 5. Put the pork belly in the sweeter. good luck food to their families. And other pot and heat it on 12. Put two handfuls of although it takes time and effort to a stove for about 50 min- dried bonito flakes in prepare, Okinawans are more than utes. the broth left in the willing, because having homemade 6. While heating up the two pot for pork loin and pots, skim off foam and Okinawa soba on New Year’s Eve is picnic, and heat on a cover the pots with a lid, stove. When the broth part of the family bond. Homemade but leave a small gap to Okinawa soba is to Okinawans what comes to a boil, take let heated air out. the pot off the stove homemade to Italian families. 7. From time to time, check and strain the broth Each family on Okinawa has its own on the softness of the with a net. port loin and belly by flavor and style of soba. Some prefer 13. Put the broth back piercing with a stick. pork bone as opposed to bonito flake- in the pot. 8. After about 50 minutes, broth. Or some may chose thick and 14. Wash the soba noo- take out the pork loin, straight noodles over thin and twist- dles in hot water. ed. And when it comes to toppings, picnic and belly from the pot and cut them into 15. Heat up anything goes. small pieces. Leave the the broth, and combine with noodles, Although Okinawa soba looks like broth of pork loin and pork loin and bellies. Top the a simple dish on the outside, there picnic in the pot, and soba noodles with grated is a good variety and depth to it dump the broth of pork ginger, red ginger, sliced that you can play with. There is no belly (or put it in another green onion, and Kooree one golden recipe. But I would like pot or bowl). Goose ( liquor to share a recipe I learned from my 9. Put the pieces back in flavor with hot chili). mother. I hope it will give you some one of the pot which was 16. Enjoy a tasty meal ideas. (Please note that the recipe is previously used for heat- and good luck for 2020! for a family of three.) ing up pork bellies. [email protected] STRIPES OKINAWA E OF OK DECEMBER 10 – DECEMBER 23, 2020 AST INAW A T 8 A (wasa). This is one of those Jap- Tonkatsu is a very popular on a hot plate or grill usually DISHES: So many flavors to discover! anese dishes that, depending on and easy to find dish of breaded embedded within the table. You your cultural background, may pork cutlet deep fried in veg- can then add sauces such as CONTINUED FROM PAGE 3 popular in summer, when a dish appear weird. Do try it out! etable oil. lemon, bbq, and many others, of somen chilled with ice cubes Takowasa is a common appe- You can find this cheap, tasty or simply salt and pepper. is all you need to recharge, fill tizer in many restaurants, and dish in several chain restau- 20 Robatayaki up, cool off, and take a break especially in izakaya. It’s very rants and in bento boxes in gro- from the brutal Japanese sum- popular and for good reason. cery and convenience stores. mer heat. It’s tasty, unique, and a true You can even make it yourself! symbol of Japanese popular Season the meat with salt and 23 Sushi and sashimi food tradition. pepper and cover it with flour. Then dip it into beaten egg and add a layer of panko (Japanese 25 flaky crumbs). Deep fry, and serve with cabbage, potato salad and some brown sauce or Robatayaki (or robata) is a karashi. Yakisoba as the name sug- Japanese unique kind of food Tonkatsu is perfect also for gests is a variety of grilled soba preparation in which food is on-the-go sandwiches, making (or noodles in general). You can grilled on an irori style fire- for a great quick meal. also prepare yakisoba by stir place (wide, flat, open fire- frying the noodles. You can add place) over charcoal. Of course we all know these pork, fish, or vegetables and This kind of food is usually dishes, but we can’t avoid men- 28 Udon with seaweed powder, found only in specialized res- tioning them in this guide. Su- ginger, and fish flakes. Give a fin- Tempura is a great dish all taurants, so you may have to shi and sashimi are among the ishing touch with sauces such as year round, especially for those look/ask specifically for it. foods at the pinnacle of Japa- oyster sauce and thank us later! of you who enjoy sharing a few The list of food at robata res- nese staple cuisine. drinks with friends. taurants is everything you can While very famous world Tempura consists of shell- Yakitori think of, although traditionally wide, many fail to understand 30 fish, fish, chicken, or vegetables it is a combination of seafood the variety of cuts, and prepara- covered in a flavorful batter and vegetables. tion that can go into preparing and deep fried until they reach Most visitors miss on this this food. Sushi chefs are regard- a perfect level of crunchiness. amazing food. Make sure you ed as artists and most of them You can enjoy tempura as is taste a real slice of Japan by have to practice as apprentices or with dipping sauce. looking for a good robata (there for years (and at times decades) Of the huge variety of noo- While many restaurants are many in Tokyo and all over before they too can be called su- dles you can find in Japan, serve this dish, there are sever- Japan). shi and sashimi masters. udon, similarly to ramen, is one This doesn’t mean though al which specialize in it, where of the most popular. Udon is a that it’s impossible to find good you can find a larger choice for thick noodle that 21 Soba quality sushi or sashimi at a an even more amazing dive into you can enjoy in its simplest Although the word yakitori fair price. Japan offers options traditional Japanese food. form (broth made of dashi, mi- literally means grilled chicken, for all palates and all pockets. rin and soy sauce), or in a vari- this concept encompasses all A particularly fun experi- 26 ety of combinations. kind of skewered meat (and ence is that of the rolling sushi Try it with tempura, for a vegetables) prepared on a grill. restaurants, in which you order robust meal, or with tofu, for a This is a simple and flavorful from a small computer at your more delicate taste. dish with a never-ending list table and the sushi is served di- Udon can be served hot or of combinations, which can be rectly to you via a rolling mat. cold, depending on the season found in several restaurants The food is very good, and it’s (and on one’s taste) and it’s pre- (specialized ones as well) and only 100 yen per dish (these pared in many styles depending which is especially recommend- Soba is a noodle restaurants are usually called on the region you’re visiting. ed to experience another one specialty of Japan. It’s ex- 100 yen-sushi, or Sushiro). While the word udon re- of the true Japanese popular tremely popular, and it’s served Something missing outside fers to the noodles themselves, dishes. both in general noodle restau- there’s no limit to the flavors, of Japan is usually the so called Teppanyaki is one of the rants, and in specialized (often soups, and ingredients that can temaki zushi (lit. hand rolled less known (but still delicious) expensive) ones. be added. As a matter of fact, Yakizakana sushi). You can certainly find styles of Japanese cooking. 31 It’s also relatively simple to challenge yourself to try out restaurants in which this dish is Teppan means iron plate and prepare at home, by getting the as many styles of udon as you served, but you’ll love making yaki means grilled. noodles and the soup in which can during your visit in Japan, your own at home (if you have Teppanyaki is a term that they are dipped at a grocery and not only are you going to be Japanese friends, it’s pretty encompasses a large variety of store. satisfied, but also nowhere near much guaranteed they’ll know dishes, including okonomiyaki, Soba can be enjoyed in a cold the end of the list of possible how to do it). The preparation yakisoba, and monjayaki, but dip, or in a broth, as . dishes! is simple. You’ll need sushi it’s usually used to refer to a This dish appears in differ- rice, cuts of your favorite fish particular kind of preparation ent varieties depending on the (thin slices, usually), seaweed of western-influenced food. season, and the region you’re Yakimono sheets, and whatever other in- Typical ingredients for tep- 29 visiting. Don’t forget to ask for gredients you’d like to add, ac- panyaki are beef, shrimp, veg- Being in Japan, we can’t a soba dish, next time you visit cordingly to your taste. Often etables, chicken, and scallops. leave out grilled fish. a restaurant in Japan! used ingredients are cucumber, They are prepared on a hot- Yakizakana may not be as , avocado, and . plate, usually with oil. popular as sushi outside of 22 Somen Spread the rice on a sheet of Some of you may be familiar Japan, but in this country it’s seaweed, add fish and other fill- with this kind of cooking, as in arguably much more common ings, roll the seaweed in a cyl- the U.S. these restaurants are than raw fish. inder or cone, and enjoy with pretty popular (although known Usually a whole fish is soy sauce. as hibachi). grilled and served with side If you’re in Japan, propose a If you come to Japan and you dishes of various vegetables “temaki zushi party” and you’ll want to taste amazing food that and rice. Try it in specialized surely get amazing approval. This term literally means espouses Japan and the west, grilled stuff. Virtually anything restaurants for a fully immer- you’ll really want to give teppa- can be grilled, but some yaki sive experience, or in chain 24 Takowasa nyaki a shot. dishes in Japan are a must-try. restaurants for a tasty, cheap, means grilled and fast meal that will keep you going for the several hours of Somen is the Japanese ver- 27 Tonkatsu meat. These restaurants are sion of a very popular kind wildly popular and you can find sightseeing ahead of you! of noodles across Asia. Made a number of high-end ones, as out of wheat flour, it’s usually well as more budget-friendly You’re now on the way to be- served cold. These very thin ones (many of which offer also come a true expert on are served with a sim- all-you-can-eat menus). food! Yet there’s much more to ple cold dipping sauce, or with In yakiniku restaurants you that can be a sauce flavored with onion, order the meat, or vegetables discovered! While visiting this ginger, and (a different that you prefer (seasoned or amazing country and taking in kind of ginger). Takowasa is raw octopus unseasoned). The selection is all the sights, the fun, and the This dish is particularly (tako) served in a wasabi sauce huge. Then you grill it yourself culture… Don’t forget to eat!