©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Bolivia
Amazon Basin p286 The Cordilleras & Yungas p107 Lake Titicaca p88 La Paz & Around p46 Santa Cruz & Gran Chiquitania Central p253 Highlands p179 Southern Altiplano South Central p142 Bolivia & the Chaco p232
Isabel Albiston, Michael Grosberg, Mark Johanson PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD
Welcome to Bolivia . . . . . 4 LA PAZ Around Chulumani. . . . 126 Bolivia Map...... 6 & AROUND...... 46 Guanay...... 128 El Camino del Oro . . . . 128 Bolivia’s Top 12...... 8 La Paz...... 48 Around La Paz...... 81 Sorata...... 130 Need to Know...... 14 Valle de la Luna ...... 81 Aucapata First Time Bolivia. . . . . 16 & Iskanwaya ...... 134 Muela del Diablo...... 81 If You Like...... 18 Mecapaca ...... 82 Cordillera Apolobamba ...... 135 Month by Month...... 20 Valle de las Ánimas. . . . 83 Charazani ...... 135 Cañón de Palca...... 83 Itineraries ...... 22 Área Natural de Manejo Bolivia Outdoors...... 28 Cerro Chacaltaya. . . . . 84 Integrado Nacional Tiwanaku...... 84 Apolobamba...... 139 Eat & Drink Like a Local...... 35 Cordillera Quimsa Cruz...... 141 Travel with Children. . . . 40 LAKE TITICACA. . . . 88 Copacabana ...... 90 Regions at a Glance. . . . 42 SOUTHERN Copacabana to Yampupata...... 98 ALTIPLANO. . . . . 142
JESSKRAFT/SHUTTERSTOCK © Isla del Sol...... 100 Oruro & the North. . . 143 Isla de la Luna ...... 105 Oruro ...... 143 Huatajata...... 105 Around Oruro...... 153 Islas de Wiñaymarka. . . 106 Curahuara de Carangas ...... 153 Isla Kalahuta...... 106 Parque Nacional Isla Pariti...... 106 Sajama...... 154 Isla Suriqui ...... 106 Uyuni & the Southwest Circuit . . . 156 THE CORDILLERAS Uyuni ...... 159
LAKE TITICACA P88 & YUNGAS...... 107 Salar de Uyuni ...... 167 Cordillera Real . . . . . 109 Los Lípez...... 169 Huayna Potosí...... 110 Tupiza & Around. . . . . 171 Condoriri Massif...... 111 Tupiza...... 171 LOVELYPEACE/SHUTTERSTOCK © Ancohuma...... 112 Around Tupiza...... 177 Illimani...... 112 Chachacomani...... 113 CENTRAL The Yungas ...... 113 HIGHLANDS. . . . . 179 Coroico & Yolosa ...... 114 Cochabamba...... 181 El Choro Trek...... 120 Around Takesi Trek...... 122 Cochabamba...... 194 Yunga Cruz Trek. . . . . 123 Parque Nacional Tunari...... 194 Chulumani...... 124 LAGUNA HEDIONDA P170 Contents
UNDERSTAND
Eastern Samaipata...... 269 Bolivia Today...... 320 Cochabamba Vallegrande...... 274 Valley...... 194 History...... 322 La Higuera...... 276 Tarata & Huayculli. . . . 194 Life in Bolivia . . . . . 331 Gran Chiquitania . . . . 277 Incallajta ...... 195 Jesuit Mission Indigenous Totora...... 196 Circuit...... 278 Culture...... 333 Mizque...... 196 Music in Bolivia . . . . 337 Parque Nacional Torotoro...... 197 AMAZON BASIN. . . 286 The Natural World ...... 339 Sucre ...... 201 Chapare Region . . . . 290 Around Sucre . . . . . 213 Villa Tunari...... 290 Tarabuco ...... 213 Parque Nacional Carrasco ...... 292 Cordillera de SURVIVAL los Frailes...... 214 Puerto Villarroel. . . . . 293 GUIDE Potosí...... 219 Western Bolivian Amazon ...... 294 Rurrenabaque...... 294 Directory A–Z. . . . . 344 SOUTH CENTRAL Parque Nacional Transportation . . . . . 352 BOLIVIA Madidi ...... 301 Health...... 359 & THE CHACO. . . . 232 San Borja...... 302 South Central Reserva de la Biosfera Language...... 364 Bolivia ...... 234 y Estación Biológica Index...... 376 Tarija...... 234 del Beni...... 303 El Valle de la San Ignacio Map Legend...... 383 Concepción...... 246 de Moxos...... 305 Reserva Biológica Eastern Bolivian Cordillera de Sama . . . . 248 Amazon ...... 307 Padcaya & Chaguaya. . . 250 Trinidad ...... 307 The Chaco...... 251 Northern Bolivian Villamontes...... 251 Amazon ...... 313 Santa Ana de Yacuma...... 313 SANTA CRUZ Barba Azul Reserve. . . . 314 & GRAN Guayaramerín...... 314 SPECIAL CHIQUITANIA. . . . 253 Riberalta ...... 315 FEATURES Santa Cruz...... 255 Riberalta to Cobija. . . . 318 Around La Paz City Walk. . . . 59 Cobija...... 318 Santa Cruz...... 266 La Paz Markets...... 62 Buena Vista...... 266 Parque Nacional Andean Camelids. . . . 157 & Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró. . . . . 267 Salar de Uyuni & Southwest Circuit Tours...... 162 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 22
Itineraries
Lake
Titicaca Coroico
•# É É •#
É É #_ LA PAZ PERU •# Tiwanaku
Cochabamba BOLIVIA É •#
É
É
#_ SUCRE Potosí •#
PA C I F I C CHILE O C E A N É Salar de Uyuni •#
É
•# Tupiza
2 WEEKS Best of Bolivia
This bare-bones itinerary will take you to the best of Bolivia – from colorful markets to stark salt plains to a city in the sky – at a head-rattling pace. Start with a day of acclimatization in La Paz, visiting the markets. History buffs can take a side trip to Tiwanaku. From La Paz, head to Lake Titicaca. Allow up to three days on the lake to take in the sites of Copacabana and Isla del Sol and continue acclimatization. From there, circle down the altiplano (via La Paz) to the Salar de Uyuni for a bone-chatteringly cold three-day jeep tour. Extend your trip to the for- mer territory of Butch Cassidy in the pleasant cowboy town of Tupiza. Swing up to Potosí, a starkly beautiful Unesco World Heritage city, situated at 4070m, where you can visit the mint and mines. After a day or two, head to the white city of Sucre to hang out with students in grand plazas. Return to La Paz via Cocha- bamba, taking in the views along the way. On your last day in La Paz, consider a day of museum-hopping or take a mountain-bike ride down the World’s Most Dangerous Road to Coroico. 23 JOHANNLOURENS/GETTYIMAGES © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es RAFALCICHAWA/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top: Parque Nacional Sajama (p154) Bottom: At the Fiesta de la Virgen de Guadalupe (p207) 24
Lake Titicaca
LA PA Tiwanaku •# É #_