©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Bolivia

Amazon Basin p286 The Cordilleras & Yungas p107 p88 & Around p46 Santa Cruz & Gran Central p253 Highlands p179 Southern Altiplano South Central p142 & the Chaco p232

Isabel Albiston, Michael Grosberg, Mark Johanson PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Bolivia . . . . . 4 LA PAZ Around . . . . 126 Bolivia Map...... 6 & AROUND...... 46 ...... 128 El Camino del Oro . . . . 128 Bolivia’s Top 12...... 8 La Paz...... 48 Around La Paz...... 81 ...... 130 Need to Know...... 14 Valle de la Luna ...... 81 First Time Bolivia. . . . . 16 & Iskanwaya ...... 134 Muela del Diablo...... 81 If You Like...... 18 ...... 82 Cordillera Apolobamba ...... 135 Month by Month...... 20 Valle de las Ánimas. . . . 83 ...... 135 Cañón de Palca...... 83 Itineraries ...... 22 Área Natural de Manejo Bolivia Outdoors...... 28 Cerro . . . . . 84 Integrado Nacional Tiwanaku...... 84 Apolobamba...... 139 Eat & Drink Like a Local...... 35 Cordillera Quimsa Cruz...... 141 Travel with Children. . . . 40 LAKE TITICACA. . . . 88 Copacabana ...... 90 Regions at a Glance. . . . 42 SOUTHERN Copacabana to Yampupata...... 98 ALTIPLANO. . . . . 142

JESSKRAFT/SHUTTERSTOCK © Isla del Sol...... 100 Oruro & the North. . . 143 Isla de la Luna ...... 105 Oruro ...... 143 Huatajata...... 105 Around Oruro...... 153 Islas de Wiñaymarka. . . 106 Curahuara de Carangas ...... 153 Isla Kalahuta...... 106 Parque Nacional Isla Pariti...... 106 Sajama...... 154 Isla Suriqui ...... 106 Uyuni & the Southwest Circuit . . . 156 THE CORDILLERAS Uyuni ...... 159

LAKE TITICACA P88 & YUNGAS...... 107 Salar de Uyuni ...... 167 Cordillera Real . . . . . 109 Los Lípez...... 169 Huayna Potosí...... 110 Tupiza & Around. . . . . 171 Condoriri Massif...... 111 Tupiza...... 171 LOVELYPEACE/SHUTTERSTOCK © Ancohuma...... 112 Around Tupiza...... 177 ...... 112 ...... 113 CENTRAL The Yungas ...... 113 HIGHLANDS. . . . . 179 & Yolosa ...... 114 Cochabamba...... 181 El Choro Trek...... 120 Around Takesi Trek...... 122 Cochabamba...... 194 Yunga Cruz Trek. . . . . 123 Parque Nacional Tunari...... 194 Chulumani...... 124 LAGUNA HEDIONDA P170 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Eastern Samaipata...... 269 Bolivia Today...... 320 Cochabamba Vallegrande...... 274 Valley...... 194 History...... 322 La Higuera...... 276 Tarata & Huayculli. . . . 194 Life in Bolivia . . . . . 331 Gran Chiquitania . . . . 277 Incallajta ...... 195 Jesuit Mission Indigenous Totora...... 196 Circuit...... 278 Culture...... 333 Mizque...... 196 Music in Bolivia . . . . 337 Parque Nacional Torotoro...... 197 AMAZON BASIN. . . 286 The Natural World ...... 339 Sucre ...... 201 Chapare Region . . . . 290 Around Sucre . . . . . 213 Villa Tunari...... 290 Tarabuco ...... 213 Parque Nacional Carrasco ...... 292 Cordillera de SURVIVAL los Frailes...... 214 Puerto Villarroel. . . . . 293 GUIDE Potosí...... 219 Western Bolivian Amazon ...... 294 Rurrenabaque...... 294 Directory A–Z. . . . . 344 SOUTH CENTRAL Parque Nacional Transportation . . . . . 352 BOLIVIA Madidi ...... 301 Health...... 359 & THE CHACO. . . . 232 San Borja...... 302 South Central Reserva de la Biosfera Language...... 364 Bolivia ...... 234 y Estación Biológica Index...... 376 Tarija...... 234 del Beni...... 303 El Valle de la San Ignacio Map Legend...... 383 Concepción...... 246 de Moxos...... 305 Reserva Biológica Eastern Bolivian Cordillera de Sama . . . . 248 Amazon ...... 307 Padcaya & Chaguaya. . . 250 Trinidad ...... 307 The Chaco...... 251 Northern Bolivian Villamontes...... 251 Amazon ...... 313 Santa Ana de Yacuma...... 313 SANTA CRUZ Barba Azul Reserve. . . . 314 & GRAN Guayaramerín...... 314 SPECIAL CHIQUITANIA. . . . 253 Riberalta ...... 315 FEATURES Santa Cruz...... 255 Riberalta to Cobija. . . . 318 Around La Paz City Walk. . . . 59 Cobija...... 318 Santa Cruz...... 266 La Paz Markets...... 62 Buena Vista...... 266 Parque Nacional Andean Camelids. . . . 157 & Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró. . . . . 267 Salar de Uyuni & Southwest Circuit Tours...... 162 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 22

Itineraries

Lake

Titicaca Coroico

•# É É •#

É É #_ LA PAZ PERU •# Tiwanaku

Cochabamba BOLIVIA É •#

É

É

#_ SUCRE Potosí •#

PA C I F I C CHILE O C E A N É Salar de Uyuni •#

É

•# Tupiza

2 WEEKS Best of Bolivia

This bare-bones itinerary will take you to the best of Bolivia – from colorful markets to stark salt plains to a city in the sky – at a head-rattling pace. Start with a day of acclimatization in La Paz, visiting the markets. History buffs can take a side trip to Tiwanaku. From La Paz, head to Lake Titicaca. Allow up to three days on the lake to take in the sites of Copacabana and Isla del Sol and continue acclimatization. From there, circle down the altiplano (via La Paz) to the Salar de Uyuni for a bone-chatteringly cold three-day jeep tour. Extend your trip to the for- mer territory of Butch Cassidy in the pleasant cowboy town of Tupiza. Swing up to Potosí, a starkly beautiful Unesco World Heritage city, situated at 4070m, where you can visit the mint and mines. After a day or two, head to the white city of Sucre to hang out with students in grand plazas. Return to La Paz via Cocha- bamba, taking in the views along the way. On your last day in La Paz, consider a day of museum-hopping or take a mountain-bike ride down the World’s Most Dangerous Road to Coroico. 23 JOHANNLOURENS/GETTYIMAGES © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es RAFALCICHAWA/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top: Parque Nacional Sajama (p154) Bottom: At the Fiesta de la Virgen de Guadalupe (p207) 24

Lake Titicaca

LA PA Tiwanaku •# É #_

er É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN IIa

É •# Oruro

# – É

olcán Tunupa (5432m) É •# Potos R É It araa É i nerar

Salar de Uyuni •# É

É É •#

Uyuni É i es Ie

•# Los Lpe

•# Disierto de Dal olcán Licancabur É (5960m) R arentIna

1 WEEK Altiplano Highlights

With one week to play with, this itinerary allows time to get a taste of life in an Andean city and take in the awe-inspiring scenery of the Salar de Uyuni. Fly into La Paz and spend two days exploring the city’s museums and galleries while you acclimatize. Soak in the atmosphere of the Andean markets, dine at La Paz’s excellent restaurants, and dip into the city’s coffee and bar scene. Zip up in the teleférico to see the unusual architecture of the neighborhood of , then visit a peña (folk-music venue) in La Paz’s Casco Viejo neighborhood. If you have time, consider a day trip to see the ruins at Tiwanaku, where you’ll find carved monoliths, archways and arcades, and two museums. From La Paz, take a flight to Uyuni to pick up a three-day jeep tour to the salar (salt desert). Get your camera and your plastic dinosaur ready for photos that play with perspective on the endless white crusty sur- face of the salt flats, and for snaps of spectacular sunsets. Brave the cold to gaze at the stars in the dark night sky. Continue via the colored lakes of Los Lípez, with stops to spot flighty flamingos and geysers, and to take a dip in some thermal springs, before looping back through the otherworldly landscape of the Desierto de Dalí to Uyuni. If you can cope with the altitude, consider adding a volcano climb to your itinerary; custom tours can include a hike up Volcán Licancabur (5960m) or Volcán Tunupa (5432m). Spend a night in Uyuni to rest after the tour, before catching a bus to Potosí. Take a day or two to wander the streets and check out the city’s museums and mines. If you have time, take the bus back to La Paz, breaking the journey in Oruro. This gritty mining city has some quirky museums and there are opportunities for day trips to neighbor- ing villages. Alternatively, catch a flight from Potosí to La Paz. 25 É ÷# Rurrenabaue

•# Parque É É Trinidad Nacional •# Madidi raI Lake Titicaca É Cerro É

Chacaltaya IIa TRIP YOUR PLAN Copacabana •# É R •# Coroico

Tiwanaku •# #_ É •#alle de la Luna Jesuit LA PA Parque Nacional

er rea de Uso Mission É Mltiple Ambor Circuit •#

Curahuara Cochabamba ÷# É

de Carangas É •#

É

É •# É Santa

÷# É •# Cru É

Samaipata It Parque

Nacional i nerar Sajama #_ SUCRE

Ie Potos •#

araa i es

É

Salar de Uyuni •# É

Tupia •# •# Taria

5 WEEKS The Whole Country

Set aside five weeks to acclimatize to the high altitude, take in one of Bolivia’s signature treks, climb a peak, do a mountain-bike trip or simply dive into Bolivian culture. From La Paz you can choose from a variety of day trips, including a visit to Tiwanaku or hiking in nearby Chacaltaya or Valle de la Luna. The adventurous can take on the Takesi or Choro treks, or ride a bike (or bus) down the World’s Most Dangerous Road to Coroico in the Yungas. Next head north to Rurrenabaque and the famous Parque Nacional Madidi – depending on your time and budget you can get here by land, air or boat. Take the time to explore this wild, little-trodden utopia. From ‘Rurre,’ take a bus to Trinidad, where you can kick back for a few days, eat- ing river fish and seeing a museum or two, before heading by plane or bus to Santa Cruz. From here you’ll kick off a multiday road trip through the Jesuit Mission Circuit, curling back around via Santa Cruz to the unique ruins near the hippie vil- lage of Samaipata and the spectacular Parque Nacional & Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró. Head up to Cochabamba for good market buys. From there you’ll start gaining some altitude as you pass through the culturally charged towns of Sucre and Potosí. After you’ve had your fill of these colonial masterpieces, cruise down to wine country near Tarija for a few days of warm weather, wine and chilled-to-perfection zen. You can then loop across to Tupiza for a day or two of mountain biking, while you arrange your four-day Salar de Uyuni trip, going the back way to avoid the crowds. On the way back toward La Paz, adventurous spirits may wish to stop near Curahuara de Carangas, before heading on to the high-plains wonderland of Parque Nacional Sajama, where hot springs and wildlife watching await. If you still have time, continue through La Paz to Copacabana for a day or two of beachfront fun on Lake Titicaca. Cruise over on the ferry, stopping at Isla de la Luna for an afternoon on your way to Isla del Sol. It’d be easy to spend five days here, trek- king to lost valleys, ruins and small indigenous villages. 26

Parque

Nacional Reserva de la Madidi É Biosfra y Estacin ÷# Biolgica del Beni PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN •# ÷#

Rurrenabaue

É •# El Porvenir Trinidad É •# •# San Ignacio de Moos It

i nerar É i es

Santa Cru •#

4 WEEKS Exploring the Amazon

More than half of Bolivia’s territory lies in the Amazon, and yet this is one of the least visited parts of the country. Waterway adventures here are good (and wet) in the rainy season, but if you plan on any type of road travel you should stick with the dry months. Start in Santa Cruz, a sophisticated and cosmopolitan city with a dreamy (some- times steamy) climate and tropical atmosphere. Dip into the urban culture for a while and party with the rich kids in the discotecas, or take a day trip to nearby gardens or waterfalls. From here fly or catch the overnight bus to Trinidad, a growing town with a pretty plaza. Stay in town for a bit, whirl around on a motorcycle for a local fish meal, take a visit to a museum or two and have a much-needed siesta or three – it gets hot. A three-hour bus ride will take you to the Jesuit mission village of San Ignacio de Moxos – if possible, plan your trip around the town’s colorful, not-to-be-missed fes- tival in July. From here, wildlife watchers should make a detour via El Porvenir into Reserva de la Biosféra Estación Biológica del Beni, where the trained eye can spot up to 500 unique species of birds, including a cornucopia of herons and egrets, along with prayerful cormorants, with wings spread in apparent supplication. There are around 100 different mammals in the reserve, which is also home to the Chimane tribe. It’s a long slog from here via San Borja to Rurrenabaque, hammock country, from where you can set out for a couple of days on a jungle or pampas tour. One option is to get your jungle fill at the San Miguel del Bala ecoresort, just upriver from Rurre- nabaque. Whatever you do, don’t miss a trip to Parque Nacional Madidi. Bolivia’s best-known national park offers a week’s- or a lifetime’s-worth of adventures in over 1.8 million hectares. The park’s remarkable biodiversity is best enjoyed at a slow pace and you should leave enough time to stay in the highly regarded, community-run Chalalán Ecolodge. 27

Cordillera Apolobamba The Cordilleras & Yungas •# Southeast Bolivia

É É Sorata

•# É É Cordillera Real

•# TRIP YOUR PLAN

•# Coroico É er #_É •# Chulumani

LA PA Parque Nacional Jesuit É

rea de Uso Mission É Mltiple Ambor Circuit ÷# É

•# É Santa Cru Samaipata •# It i nerar IIa

Ie É i es

araa

Taria Reserva Biolgica •# Cordillera de Sama ÷#

The Cordilleras 2 3 Southeast Bolivia WEEKS & Yungas WEEKS

Trapped between the heights of the This trip will get you away from the main and the Amazon, this fascinating area is tourist track and into Bolivia’s warm south- a trekking, climbing, hiking and biking ern comforts. Along the way, there are a few wonderland. hiking options, interesting cultural centers Getting here is half the fun. Trekkers and energetic cityscapes. can start from outside La Paz, traveling by Start with a few days of partying in foot via the Takesi or Choro treks into the Santa Cruz, Bolivia’s second city. It’s heart of the Yungas. You can also get into great fun just wandering around the the Southern Yungas on a butt-busting streets as you soak up camba (lowland) daylong mountain-bike ride down the culture. Next make your way out of the World’s Most Dangerous Road. Be sure to city for a week-long dusty adventure spend a few days at the end of your descent through the Jesuit Mission Circuit, a in the pleasant Yungas villages of Coroico series of beautiful missions where baroque or Chulumani, both of which offer plenty music and faith meld with the chilled- of day hikes, swimming options and a out culture of the Guaraní. Cruise back chilled-out traveler vibe. From there, it’s through Santa Cruz on your way to the back to the capital and on to climbing and pre-Inca ruins at Samaipata and wildlife trekking in the Cordillera Real, stopping watching at Parque Nacional & Área de in the cool-air, soft-spirited Andean town Uso Múltiple Amboró. From the park of Sorata. Adventurers could take on any (backtracking via Samaipata and Santa number of treks from Sorata. There are Cruz), make your way down to the relaxed also good mountain-bike adventures or wine-country town of Tarija. After a few you can head up to the glaciated peaks of days in town, you can customize the tail the Cordillera. If you have the time, extend end of your adventure, with hikes along your journey to the seldom-visited Cor- the Inca Trail in the Reserva Biológica dillera Apolobamba for visits with lost Cordillera de Sama or in any of the tribes, wildcat miners and loads of deep numerous national parks and reserves wilderness trekking. unique to the Chaco region. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 374

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Michael Grosberg I’m so grateful to all of the many people who Many thanks to the travellers who used helped me along the road, including Hector, the last edition and wrote to us with help­ Jaime and Edith in Tarija; Daniel, Zulma and ful hints, useful advice and interesting Bismark from Condor Trekkers in Sucre; Rene anecdotes: Alain Verhasselt, Aleksandra Ur- from El Mundo Verde Travel in Cochabamba; and banowska, Dennis Hamann, Eileen Finkelstein, Vincent and Julia from Valle de los Condores; Filip Vandamme, Gaëtan Coatanroch, Hannako as well as other travelers along the road. And Bakker, Iris Bos, Jeanne Marie Thomas, Johan- always to Rosie and Carly and Boone for their na Grau, Kim de Oude, Laura Halbach, Lucie support. Dabos, Mariska Helmus, Michael Bech, Nicolas Combremont, Ole Brederlau, Olga Cirera, Peter Mark Johanson Dullnig, Ramón de la Rosa Steinz, Robert Mar- Muchas gracias to all the Bolivian people who tyniecki, Sean Romero, Siu-yin Cheung, Stela warmed my heart and filled my belly. Thanks Prodanovic, Susan Spronk, Tim Laslavic to Felipe Bascuñán for allowing me to be gone from home for so many weeks and to Tomas Sivila, María Fernanda Alandia, Alex Villca Lima- WRITER THANKS co, Raul Mendoza, Augusto Aruquipa Coromi, Isabel Albiston Rosa Maria Ruiz and Jose Antonio Diaz for being fountains of knowledge along the way. Huge thanks to everyone who helped me on the road, especially Juan Carlos Vargas, Natasha Gamboa, Daniel Cahill, Paula Nina, ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Leo Lino, Gonzalo Sandoval, Goyo Surriable, Sandra Gilbert, Inez Daza, Javier Huarachi and Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Nick, and the many others whose names I don’t Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated recall. Gracias also to Bailey Freeman, Michael World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Grosberg and Mark Johanson. It was a great Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System project to work on! Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Cover photograph: Murals and women wearing traditional clothing, Aldo Pavan/4Corners © BEHIND THE SCENES

Shona Gray, Anne Shona Gray, Assisting Cartographers Anita Banh Laura Bailey, Researcher Cover Parker Naomi Thanks to Jenna Kathryn Mason, Myers, Rowan Assisting Editors Michelle Janet Austin, Bennett, Jacqueline Danam, Victoria Harrison, Kellie Jodie Susan Langdon, Martire, Maja Vatrić Paterson,

Corey Hutchison Corey Saralinda Turner Saralinda Carto­ Senior Regional grapher Product Editor Hannah Cartmel Designer Book Jessica Rose was was This a contributing author. by produced was guidebook following: the Destination Editor Freeman Bailey Editor Product Senior - - guidebook was was guidebook Bolivia Michael Grosberg, Brian Michael Kluep Grosberg, fel and The Paul Smith. 8th edition was written by Greg Benchwick and Paul Smith, Henry and S Professor Klein researched and written by by written and researched Michael Isabel Albiston, Gros berg and The Mark Johanson. by written was edition previous THIS BOOK This 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 376

Index

Parque Cretácico (Cal boat travel 129, 354, see cathedrals 4WD tours 32 Orck’o) 204 also kayaking Cochabamba 185 de Monterani 154 boat trips Concepción 280 Quila Quila 218-31 Puerto Villarroel 293 Copacabana 91 A Sea Fossils 198-9 Trinidad 309, 311 Abra Chucura 121 La Paz 55 Tiwanaku 84-7 books 320 accessible travel 344 Potosí 223 area codes 349 border crossings 352, 353 accommodations 344-5, Riberalta 316 see also individual Área Natural de Manejo Argentina 178, 248 Sucre 203 Integrado Nacional locations Brazil 284, 317 Tarija 237 Apolobamba 139-40 activities 20-1, see also Chile 167 Trinidad 309 Argentina, travel to 248 individual activities Paraguay 251 caves art 19 addresses 348 Brazil, travel to 284, 317 Caverna de Umajalanta artisan crafts 18-19 adventure sports 18, 28-34 budget 15 198 Atlantis 103 Afro-Bolivian people 127 Buena Vista 266-7 Cavernas del Repechón ATMs 347 Aiquile 198 bus travel 353-4 292 Aucapata 134-5 air travel 352-3, 354 business hours 347-8 Gruta de Lourdes 99 alpacas 157 Aymará people 87, 90, 336 Gruta de San Pedro 130 Amazon Basin 44, 286-318, language 369 Icla 207 C 288-9 religious beliefs 334 Las Cuevas de Cala Cala 153 accommodations 286 Miserendino 279 camelids 157 climate 286 Las Cuevas del Rio San B camiones 357 Cristobal 130 food 286 Barba Azul Reserve 314 Candelaria 207 cell phones 14, 350 history 287 basilicas, see churches, canoeing, see white-water basilicas, chapels & Cementerio de Trenes 159 travel seasons 286 rafting convents cemeteries travel to/from 287, 290 canyoneering 34, 57, 116, beaches Cementerio Municipal Ancohuma 112 290 Cha’lla (Isla del Sol) 100 205 Andean condors 250 canyons Copacabana Beach 91 La Paz Cemetery 49 animal sanctuaries Cañón de Palca 83-4 Central Highlands 43, 179- La Senda Verde Wildlife La Pajcha 272 Cañón de Torotoro 198 231, 180 Sanctuary 114 Río Surutú 266 Cañón del Duende 178 accommodations 179 Santiago de Okola (Isla animals 340 El Vergel 198 de la Luna) 105 climate 179 api con pastel 62, 63 Pilcomayo Canyon 252 Benedición De Movilidades food 179 archaeological sites, see 95 Valle de la Luna 81 history 180-1 also Inca sites, ruins biking, see cycling Valle de las Ánimas 83 travel seasons 179 Batea Q’ocha Rock car travel 32, 354, 356-7 Paintings 199 biodiversity 303 Cerro Chacaltaya 84 Carnaval 20 Coquesa 169 bird-watching 34, 312 Cerro Rico 224, 228 Oruro 151 Dinosaur Tracks 197 Area Protegida Municipal Chachacomani 113 Aquicuana 316 Santa Cruz 259 El Fuerte 270 Chaco, the, see South Bird Bolivia 259 Tarija 244 Central Bolivia & the Incallajta 195-6 Conservación Loros Cassidy, Butch 176 Chaco Llanos de Moxos 306 Bolivia 309 castles & palaces Chaguaya 250-1 Lomas de Arena 261 Palacio Portales 184 Cha’lla 102 Map Pages 000 Reserva Biológica Palacio Quemado Cha’llapampa 102 Photo Pages 000 Cordillera de Sama 250 (Burned Palace) 48, 55 Chapacos people 239, 244 377 Chapare 290-4 Iglesia y Convento de entertainment 191 counterfeits 347 charangos 198, 19 San Francisco 185 festivals & events 186 courses Charazani 135-8 Iglesia y Museo de San food 188-90, 192 language 58, 147, 186, Lorenzo de Carangas Chichas people 172-3 history 183-4 206, 346 223 children, travel with 40-1 shopping 191 music 58 Jesuit Mission Church yoga 58 Chile, travel to 167 (San José de sights 184-6 INDEX INDEX people 158, 323, Chiquitos) 284 tourist information 191-2 credit cards 347 336 Jesuit Mission Church tours 186 Cristo de la Concordia 184 people 278, (San Miguel de travel to/from 193 cultural centres C–E  285, 336 Velasco) 282 travel within 193 Casa Melchor Pint 255 Chochís 283 Jesuit Mission Church  Colchani 168 culture 320-1, 331-2 (San Rafael de chullpas 153 Concepción 280-1 Curahuara de Carangas Velasco) 284 153-4 Chulumani 124-6 Condoriri Massif 111-12 churches, basilicas, Portada del Beaterio currency 14 147 conquistadors 324 chapels & convents, cycling 28, 354, see consulates 345 see also cathedrals Santuario de la Virgen also mountain biking del Socavón 143 convents, see churches, Basílica de San Copacabana 94 Francisco 235 Santuario Mariano de basilicas, chapels & la Torre 283 convents Tarija 238 Basílica Menor de San Trinidad 310 Lorenzo 255 Templo Nuestra Señora cooperative mines 224, 228 World’s Most Dangerous Capilla de Lajas 242 de la Merced 205 safety 227 Road 117, 33 Capilla de Nuestra Torre de la Compañía Señora de Jerusalén de Jesús 223 Copacabana 90-98, 92, 99 223 cinemas accommodations 94-5 D Capilla de la Virgen de Cochabamba 191 border crossings 98 dance 335-6 Guadalupe 203 La Paz 74 drinking & nightlife 97 Carnaval 151, 244 Capilla Sixtina del Oruro 150 festivals & events 93-4 tinku 230 Altiplano 153 Potosí 229 food 96-8 departure tax 353 Colonial Church (Quila Santa Cruz 263 history 90-1 Desierto de Dalí 171 Quila) 218 Sucre 211 information 97-8 Día de los Muertos 64 Convento de San Felipe climate 14, 20-1, see Neri 203 14 shopping 97 drinking water 360 also individual regions Convento de Santa sights 91-2 drinks 35-9 climbing & Teresa (Cochabamba) tours 92 mountaineering 28, 184-5, 187 travel to/from 98 29, 31, 58 E Convento de Santa Coquesa 169 Ancohuma 112 eastern Bolivian Amazon Teresa (Sucre) 205-6 Cordillera Apolobamba 307-13 Andes 34 Iglesia de la Merced 224 135-41, 136-7 economy 320 Cerro Tunari 194 Iglesia de los Santos Cordillera de los Frailes Ekeko 66 Desposorios 266 Cordillera Quimsa 214-31, 216-17 Cruz 141 El Alto 76 Iglesia de San Francisco tours 215 Cordillera Real 109- El Angosto 178 (La Paz) 49 Cordillera Quimsa Cruz 141 10, 111 El Camino del Oro 128-30 Iglesia de San Francisco Cordillera Real 10, 109- (Sucre) 206 Curahuara de Carangas el chaqueo 342 13, 10 154 El Choro trek 120-2, 121 Iglesia de San Ignacio Cordilleras & Yungas, the 281 La Paz 58, 60 El Valle de la Concepción 43, 107-41, 108 Iglesia de San Juan 237 Museo Antropológico 246-8, 247 climate 107 Iglesia de San Pedro Eduardo López Rivas electricity 346 147 highlights 108 195 embassies 345 Parque Nacional Sajama history 109 Iglesia de San Roque environment 339-42 154-5 travel seasons 107 237 environmental hazards Sucre 206 travel to/from 109-41 Iglesia de San Xavier 362 tours 357-8 Coroico & Yolosa 114- 279 environmental issues Iglesia de Santa Ana 283 volcanoes 165 20, 115 154, 340 Iglesia de Santa Mónica Cobija 318 accommodations 116-19 el chaqueo 342 206 coca 118, 291 activities 114-16 endangered species 341 Iglesia Indígena de San Cochabamba 181-93, 182 drinking & nightlife 120 Lago Poopó 154 Pedro 52 accommodations 186-8 food 119-20 Lake Titicaca 90 Iglesia Parroquial de drinking & nightlife 191 sights 114 Río Choqueyapu 64 S.I. 305 tours 116 378 events, see festivals & gardens, see parks & Parque Nacional & Incallajta 195-6 events gardens Área de Uso Múltiple Inca sites, see also exchange rates 15 geology 340-1 Amboró 268-9 archaeological sites, geysers Parque Nacional ruins Carrasco 293 Parque Nacional Sajama Copacabana 91 F 155 Parque Nacional Sajama El Fuerte 270-1 festivals & events 20-1, 155 INDEX INDEX 337, see also religious Sol de Mañana 170 Incallajta 195-6 Reserva Biológica festivals Gran Chiquitania, Isla del Sol 102 Cordillera de Sama see Santa Cruz & Aymará 61, 87 248-9 Llamachaki 199

E–J Gran Chiquitania Cochabamba 186 Reserva de la Biosferay Templo de las Vírgenes Gran Poder 21 105 Copacabana 93-4 Estación Biológicadel  guanacos 157 El Valle de la Beni 304 independence 326 Concepción 247 Guanay 128 Independence Day 21 food 291 Guaraní people 258, 333, 279 indigenous culture 333-6 336 La Paz 61-2 Sorata 131 indigenous reserves Guayaramerín 314-15 Mizque 197 Sucre 206 TCO Tsimané 304 Guevara, Che 274, 275, 277 music 239, 259, 305 Takesi Trek 122-3, 124 indigenous groups 336, Ruta del Che 276 Pachamama 225 tours 257-8 see also individual groups Parque Nacional Yunga Cruz Trek 123-4 Torotoro 199 H historic buildings Chichas 172-3 Potosí 225-6 haciendas Casa de las Tres Chipaya 158, 323, 336 rodeo 240 El Picacho 235 Portadas 224 278, 285, 336 San Ignacio de Moxos Hacienda Cayara 231 Castillo de Moisés Guaraní 258, 333, 336 305-6 Hacienda El Cafetal 266 Navajas 238 Kallawaya 137, 138, Santa Cruz 259 La Posada del Inca 104 El Cabildo (Potosí) 221 335, 336 Sucre 206-7 Samay Huasi 219 Los Ingenios 225 Tacana 294, 299, 302 Tarabuco 213 health 359-63 Palacio Consistorial 195 infectious diseases 359 Tarija 239-40 Heyerdahl, Dr Thor 104 Villa Albina 188 insurance 346, 359 theater 259 hiking & trekking 10, 18, history 18, 322-30 internet access 346 Tiwanaku 87 28-9, 31 Hospital Señor de Malta internet resources 15, Totora 196 Ancohuma Overnight 274-5 349, 362 Trinidad 310 Hike 112 Parque Histórico Santa Cruz la Vieja 285 Iskanwaya 134-5 Uyuni 159 Chachacomani 113 Quebrada del Churo 277 Isla de la Luna 100, 105 Vallegrande 275 Copacabana 94, 99-100 hitchhiking 357 Isla del Sol 10, 100-5, 101, Villa Tunari 291 Condoriri Massif Overnight Hike 111-12 holidays 348-9 5, 10 wine 247, 239 Coroico & Yolosa 114-15 horseback riding 34 accommodations 102-4 Fiesta de la Cruz 20 Cordillera Apolobamba Reserva de la Biosferay food 104-5 Fiesta de La Virgen de 135 Estación Biológicadel travel to/from 104 Candelaria 20, 23 Cordillera de los Frailes Beni 304 travel within 105 Fiesta del Santo Patrono 214-18 Tupiza 173-4 Isla Incahuasi 167-8 de Moxos 21 Cordillera Quimsa hot springs Isla Kalahuta 106 fishing 252, 290, 293, Cruz 141 305, 316 Parque Nacional Sajama Isla Pariti 106 Cordillera Real 10, 155 films 320 Islas de Wiñaymarka 106 109-13, 10 Tarapaya 226 flamingos 139, 154, 170, itineraries 22-7, 22, 24, El Camino del Oro Termas de Charazani 248, 2 25, 26, 27 128-30 Phutina 137 food 35-9, 346, 37, 39 El Choro Trek 120-2, 121 Termas de Obrajes 153 forests 156 Huayna Potosí Overnight Termas de Polques 170 J four-wheel driving 32 jaguars 281 Hike 110-11 Huatajata 105-6 Jal’qa people 218 Illimani Overnight Hike Huayculli 194-5 112-13 Jardín Botánico 65 G Huayna Potosí 110-11 galleries, see museums & to Ocabaya Day Jesuit Mission Churches galleries Hike 126-7 San José de Chiquitos Isla de la Luna 105 I 284 Isla del Sol 100 Icla 207 Map Pages 000 La Paz 58, 60 Illimani 112-13, 19 282 Photo Pages 000 Lagunillas to Agua immigration 352 Blanca Trek 139-40 Inca empire 323-4 284 379 Jesuit Mission Circuit 13, markets 62-3, 62, 63 micros 357 Museo Arqueológico 271 278-85, 13 orientation 75 minibuses 357 Museo Arqueológico de planning 48 mining 129, 143, 170, 224 la UMSS 185 safety 77 environmental issues Museo Casa Arte Taller K Cardozo Velasquez 147 Kalasasaya 86-7 shopping 75-6 321 Museo Casa Natal Kallawaya people 137, 138, sights 48-57 nationalisation of 320

German Busch 279 INDEX 335, 336 travel seasons 46 tours 224, 227, 228 Museo Cerámico 87 kayaking 32-4, see also travel to/from 79-81 Mizque 196-7 Museo Comunal La white-water rafting, travel within 80-1 mobile phones 14, 350

Higuera 277  J–M individual locations Mojeño people 336 walking tours 59, 59 Museo de Arqueología y languages 14 money 14, 15, 17, 346, 347 Paleontología 237 L Aymará 369 monuments Museo de Arte La Ceja 57 courses 147, 346 Cerro Corazón de Jesús Contemporáneo 255 173 La Festividad de Nuestro Quechua 369 Museo de Arte Indígena Señor Jesús del Gran Cristo de la Concordia 201 Spanish 364-73 Poder 21 184 Museo de Etnografía y Las Islas Flotantes 94 La Higuera 276-7 Faro de Conchupata 147 Folklore 53 legal matters 346 Lago Poopó 154 Monumento Escultérico Museo de Historia LGBT+ travelers 346-7 Lake Titicaca 42, 88-106, Virgen del Socavón Natural Alcide 89, 2 lithium 170 143 d’Orbigny 185 accommodations 88 llamas 157, 41 Morales, Evo 321, 329-30 Museo de Historia climate 88 Llanos de Moxos 306 coca and 109, 118 Regional 255 food 88 lomas 306, 309 indigenous people Museo de Instrumentos Musicales 55 highlights 89 lookouts, see viewpoints and 333 Museo de Kusijata 91 history 89 Los Lípez 169-71 national psyche and 331 Museo de la Coca 49 travel seasons 88 lustrabotas 72 motorcycle travel 354, 356-7 Museo de la Recoleta travel to/from 90 mountain biking 31-2, see 203-4 lakes, see also Lake M also cycling Museo de la Revolución Titicaca macaws 277, 312, 9 Cerro Chacaltaya 84 Nacional 55-6 La Angostura 185-6 maps 347 Coroico & Yolosa 115-16 Museo de Mojos 305 Laguna Colorada 170 Marka Pampa 103 Huayna Potosí 110 Museo de Santa Clara Laguna Hedionda 170, 2 205 markets 11, 62-3 La Paz 57-8 Laguna Huañakota 155 Museo de Textiles El Mercado de los Mizque 197 Laguna Isirere 305 Campesinos 235 Andinos Bolivianos 53 Sorata 130-2 Laguna Normandia 303 La Cancha 185 Museo del Charango World’s Most Dangerous 198 Laguna Verde 171 Mercado 16 de Julio 63 Road 117, 23 Museo del Che 274 Lagunas de Kari Kari Mercado Camacho 62-3 mountaineering, Museo del Poncho 91 226 Mercado Central see climbing & San Jacinto Reservoir (Potosí) 228-9, 37 mountaineering Museo del Tesoro 201 236-7 Mercado de las Brujas mountains 339-40 Museo Eclesiástico de Sucre 203 Tajzara Lagoons 248 63, 63 Cerro Calvario 91 Museo Elsa Paredes de La Paz 11, 42, 46-87, 47, Mercado Lanza 62, 62 Muela del Diablo 81-2 Salazar 49 50-1, 54-5, 61, 83, 11, Mercado Negro 62, 17 museums & galleries 258 62, 63 Museo Etnoarqueológico Mercado Uruguay 63 Calle Jaén Museums 53 accommodations 46, Kenneth Lee 307-8 Sucre 212 64-8 Casa de la Cultura Museo Ferrocarril 159 Tarabuco Sunday Market Simón Patiño 146 activities 57-8 Museo Franciscano 213 Casa de la Libertad 201 Fray Francisco Miguel climate 46 measures 348 Casa Dorada 237 Mari 235 courses 58 Mecapaca 82 Casa Nacional de la Museo Gutiérrez drinking & nightlife 72-3 medical services 359 Moneda 221-2 Valenzuela 205 entertainment 73-5 Mercado Central (Potosí) Fundación Solón 49 Museo Ictícola 308 festivals & events 61-4 228-9, 37 Mamani Mamani Gallery Museo Lítico food 46, 68-72 Mercado de las Brujas 53 Monumental 85 highlights 47 63, 63 Municipal Museum 173 Museo Militar 153-4 history 48 Mercado Lanza 62, 62 Museo Arqueología y Museo Misional (San information 76-9 mestiza dress 335 Antropológico de los Xavier) 279 internet resources 79 Mi Teleférico 78 Andes Meridionales Museo Misional 159 (Concepción) 280 380 museums & galleries Barba Azul Reserve 314 P propane heaters 345 continued Lomas de Arena 261 Pachamama 90, 225-6, protests 77, 184, 321, Museo Misional de Parque Nacional & 334 332, 349 Ignacio de Velasco Área de Uso Múltiple Padcaya 250-1 public holidays 348-9 282 Amboró 267-9, 267 palaces, see castles & Puerto Villarroel 293-4 Museo Nacional de Parque Nacional palaces Pujllay 20 Etnografía y Folklore INDEX INDEX Carrasco 292-3 Paraguay, travel to 251 201 Pulacayo 166 Parque Nacional Madidi parks & gardens Museo Nacional de 9, 301-2, 9 Arqueología Tiwanaku Biocentro Güembé 261

M–R Parque Nacional Sajama Q  56 Jardín Botánico 65, 261 154-6, 155, 23, 35 Quebrada Palala 177 Museo Nacional del Parque Bolívar 205 Quebrada Palmira 178 Arte 53 Parque Nacional Serranía del Parque El Arenal 258 Quechua people 336 Museo Pacha Uta 91 Aguaragüe 252 Parque Pantanal 308 language 369 Museo Sacro, Folklórico, Parque Nacional Paseo Turístico La Arqueológico y Minero Torotoro 197-201 Costanera 316 146 Parque Nacional Tunari Parque Nacional & Área de R Museo San Francisco 49 194 Uso Múltiple Amboró radio 348 Museos Universitarios Reserva Biológica 267-9, 267 rafting 32-3, 116 205 Cordillera de Sama Parque Nacional Carrasco tours 60 Museo Tambo 248-50 292-3 Villa Tunari 290-1 Quirquincho 49, 52 Reserva de la Biosfera y Parque Nacional Madidi 9, religion 321, 332 Museo y Convento de 301-2, Estación Biológica del 9 religious festivals San Francisco 223 Beni 303-5 Parque Nacional Sajama Alasitas Festival 93 Museo y Convento de Reserva Nacional de 154-6, 155, 23, 35 Santa Teresa 222-3 Fauna Andina Eduardo Exaltación de la Santa Parque Nacional Torotoro Vera Cruz 226 Museum (San José de Avaroa 170 197-201 Chiquitos) 285 Reserva Nacional de Festival de San Antonio Parque Nacional Tunari 291 Pachamama Wasi 199 Flora y Fauna Tariquía 194 250 Fiesta de la Cruz 93 Pipiripi 55 peñas Reserva Privada de Fiesta de la Virgen de Salar Galería de Arte 49 La Paz 73-4 Patrimonio Natural de Candelaria 93 Templete Semisub­ Corbalán 252 Potosí 229 Fiesta de la Virgen de terráneo & Museo al photography 348 Aire Libre 56-7 Santuario Chuchini 307 Guadalupe 207 planning 16-17 music 320, 335, 337-8 Serere Eco Reserve 300 Fiesta de la Virgen de Bolivia’s regions 42-4 Urkupiña 186 Afro-Bolivian saya 127 nature 339-42 calendar of events 20-1 Fiesta de las Flores 240 baroque music festival newspapers 348 305 northern Bolivian Amazon children, travel with 40-1 Fiesta de Moxos 305 Festival de Música Misi­ 313-18 itineraries 22-7 Fiesta de San Roque ones de Chiquitos 259 Núñez del Prado, Marina plants 341-2 240 instruments 18, 75, 239 73 population 321 Fiesta del Señor Santiago 199 La Paz 73-4 nuns 187 post 348 Día de los Muertos (La Potosí 13, 219-31, Las Flaviadas 73 220- Paz) 64 1, 13 Museo de Instrumentos O La Festividad de Nuestro Musicales 55 observatories accommodations 226-7 Señor Jesús del Gran peñas 73-4 Santa Ana Astronomical drinking & nightlife 229 Poder 64 Sucre 211 Observatory 235 entertainment 229 Santa Veracruz Tatala Tarija 239, 244 opening hours 347-8 festivals & events 225-6 186 Oruro 143-52, 146-7 food 227-9 Semana Santa accommodations 148-9 history 219-21 (Copacabana) 93 N Todos Santos 207 national parks & nature drinking & nightlife 150 shopping 229 reserves 342 entertainment 150 sights 221-5 Reserva Biológica Cordillera de Sama tourist information Amazon Basin 287 food 149-50 248-50 229-31 Area Protegida shopping 150-1 Reserva de la Biosfera y tours 225 Municipal Aquicuana sights 143-7 Estación Biológica del 316 tours 147 travel to/from 231 Beni 303-5 travel to/from 152 travel within 231 Riberalta 315-18 pozas Map Pages 000 travel within 152 river dolphins 340, 341 Villa Tunari 290 Photo Pages 000 outdoor adventures 28-34 Puerto Villarroel 293 381 Reserva de la Biosfera y San Cristóbal 171 highlights 144-5 festivals & events Estación Biológica del San Ignacio de Moxos history 143 239-40 Beni 304 305-7 travel seasons 142 food 242-4 tours 295 travel to/from 143 history 234-5 Trinidad 307, 309 281-2 Southwest Circuit tours sights 235-8 river travel 129, 309, 311 San José de Chiquitos 162-3, 174 tourist information 245

284-5 INDEX rivers Spanish conquest 324-5 tours 239 San Lorenzo 242 Amazon 26, 311 Spanish language 364-8 travel to/from 245-6 San Miguel de Velasco Inter-Andean Valleys sports 332 travel within 246

R–T  282-3 240 statue of Christ 121 taxis 357 Río Choqueyapu 64 San Rafael de Velasco 283-4 Sucre 11, 201-13, 202-3, 11 TCO Tsimané 304 Río Coroico 116 San Xavier 279-80 accommodations 207-9 teleféricos Río Huarinilla 116 San Xavier 279-80 drinking & nightlife Cochabamba 184 Río Surutú 266 210-11 283 La Paz 78 rock climbing, entertainment 211 Oruro 143 see climbing Santa Ana de Yacuma 313-14 festivals & events 206-7 telephone services 349-50 rodeo 240 Santa Cruz 255-65 food 209-10 Termas de Obrajes 153 ruins 94, see also shopping 211 archaeological sites, Santa Cruz & Gran Termas de Polques 170, 30 Inca sites Chiquitania 44, 253-85, sights 201-6 textiles 334-5 Akapana Pyramid 85 254, 256-7 tourist information 212 theaters Cerro Kopakati 91 accommodations 253, tours 206 International Theater 259-60 Chari 137 travel to/from 212-13 Festival 259 climate 253 El Fuerte 270 travel within 213 Teatro Adela Zumudio day trips 261 191 Horca del Inca 91 Sud Lípez Lakes 171 drinking & nightlife 262 Teatro al Aire Libre Intikala 91 swimming entertainment 262-3 Mauro Nuñez 211 Iskanwaya 135 Buena Vista 266 festivals & events 259 Teatro del Charango 74 Isla de la Luna 105 Cañon de Torotoro 198 Teatro Gran Mariscal de food 253, 260-2 Isla del Sol 100-2 Club Náutico 316 Ayacucho 211 orientation 263 Kantatayita 86 El Cairo 266 Teatro Municipal Alberto shopping 263 Llamachaki 199 El Chorro 294 Saavedra Pérez 74 sights 255-8 Teatro NUNA 74 Megaphones 85 El Encuentro 114 tourist information El Vagante 114 time 350 Puerta del Sol 86 263-4 El Vergel 198 Tinku 230 Pukara 135 tours 258-9 Inter-Andean Valleys Tiquipaya 196 Puma Punku 86 travel seasons 253 240 Tiwanaku 12, 84-7, 12 Putuni 86 travel to/from 264-5 La Pajcha 272 toilets 350 Templete travel within 265 Semisubterráneo 86 Laguna Isirere 305 Totora 196 Santa Teresa convent Paso Retamas 129 totora-reed boats 104 Templo de las Vírgenes 184-5, 187 105 Piscina El Mirador 294 tourist information 350 Santiago de Okola 105 Tiwanaku 84-7 Riberalta 316 tours 357-8 Semana Santa 20 Rurrenabaque 129, 294- Rurrenabaque 294 4WD 32 Serere Eco Reserves 300 301, 296-7 Villa Tunari 290 bird-watching 259 shopping 349 Copacabana 93 smoking 348 Coroico 116 S snakes 363 T safety 349 Tacana people 294, 299, Huatajata 105-6 sopa de maní 39, 243, 37 Salar de Chiguana 169-70 302 jungle 295 Sorata 130-4, 132 Salar de Coipasa 163, 168 Takesi Trek 122-3, 124-5 La Paz 60-1 South Central Bolivia & pampas 295 Salar de Uyuni 9, 167-9, the Chaco 44, 232- tap water 360 168, 8, 30 52, 233 Tarabuco 213-14 Salar de Uyuni 162-3 tours 162-3, 164 accommodations 232 Tarata 194-5 Sorata 131-2 salt flats 167 climate 232 Tarija 12, 234-46, 236-7, Southwest Circuit 162-3, 174 salt hotels 169 food 232 247, 12 wildlife watching 309, Samaipata 11, 269-74, travel seasons 232 accommodations 241-2 , 310 270 11 Southern Altiplano 43, 142- activities 238-9 wine tours 239 Sampaya 98 78, 144-5 drinking & nightlife Yolosa 116 San Borja 302-3 climate 142 244, 245 382 train travel 358 vicuñas 157 W wine 12, 249 travel to/from Bolivia viewpoints 81 walking, see hiking & El Valle de la Concepción 352-4 Cerro de la Cruz 173 trekking 246-8, 247 travel within Bolivia 354-8 Convento de San Felipe walking tours festival 247 trekking see hiking & Neri 203 La Paz 59 tasting 12, 12 trekking El Sillar 177 water 360 tours 239 INDEX INDEX Trinidad 307-13, 308 Mirador Laikakota 55 waterfalls work 351 trufis 357 Mirador Loma de San Cataratas del Suton 285 World’s Most Dangerous Tupac Amaru, Andrés Juan 235 Chorros de Jurina 240 Road 117, 33 T–Z 130, 324  Mirador Palla Khasa 102 Coimata Falls 240 Tupiza 12, 171-7, 172, 12 Mirador Wila Kollu 130 El Chorro 294 Y TV 348 Observatorio de Aves El Chorro Grande 252 Yampupata 98-100 248 Incacancha 140 yellow fever 361-2, see Parque Histórico Santa Inter-Andean Valleys also vaccinations U Cruz la Vieja 285 Uyuni 159-67, 160 240 yoga 57, 58, 238 Plaza del Folklore La Colina 279 accommodations 160-3 Stairway 147 Yolosa, see Coroico & La Pajcha 272 Yolosa border crossings 167 Tupac Katari Mirador 57 Las Cuevas 272 Yunga Cruz Trek 123-4 drinking & nightlife 164 Villa Albina 188 Yungas, the see Cordilleras festivals & events 159 Villa Tunari 290-2 weather 14, 20-1, 14 see also individual regions & Yungas, the food 164 villages weights 348 medical services 165 Chari 137 shopping 164-5 western Bolivian Amazon Z Colchani 168 294-307 sights 159 ziplining San Buenaventura 294 white-water rafting 32-4, tours 159 Rurrenabaque 294 Sicuani 99 116 travel to/from 166 zoos Titicachi 98 wildlife 340-2 Zoo El Refugio 271 Totaizal 304 wildlife reserves Zoológico Municipal Yampupata 99 V Parque Machía 290 Fauna Sudamericana vaccination 17 Yumani 100 wildlife watching 18, 34 258 Brazil, for 284, 317, 353 Villamontes 251-2 Riberalta 316 Valle de la Luna 81 visas 14, 350-1 Tarija 238 Valle de las Ánimas 83-4 volcanoes 165 Trinidad 309 Vallegrande 274-6 volunteering 351 Yunga Cruz Trek 123 Valles de Rocas 171 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 383

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Subway/Subte station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS Isabel Albiston Southern Altiplano, Santa Cruz & Gran Chiquitania After six years working for the Daily Telegraph in London, Isabel left to spend more time on the road. A job as writer for a magazine in Sydney, Australia, was followed by a four-month overland trip across Asia and five years living and work- ing in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Isabel started writing for Lonely Planet in 2014 and has contributed to 10 guidebooks. She’s currently based in Madrid, Spain. Isabel also wrote the Plan, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

Michael Grosberg Central Highlands, South Central Bolivia & the Chaco Michael has worked on over 50 Lonely Planet guidebooks. Other international roles have included development work on Rota in the western Pacific, and teach- ing in Quito, Ecuador. He has also worked in South Africa, where he investigated and wrote about political violence, and trained newly elected government repre­ sentatives. He received a Masters in Comparative Literature, and has taught literature and writing as an adjunct professor.

Mark Johanson Lake Titicaca, The Cordilleras & Yungas, La Paz & Around, Amazon Basin Mark Johanson grew up in Virginia and has called five different countries home over the last decade while circling the globe reporting for British newspapers (The Guardian), American magazines (Men’s Journal) and global media outlets (CNN, BBC). When not on the road, you’ll find him gazing at the Andes from his current home in Santiago, Chile. Follow his adventures at www.markjohanson.com

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 10th edition – June 2019 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 786574 732 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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