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A & GUIDE TO THE

by TIM ROCK Diving and Snorkeling Guide to The Philippines

by TIM ROCK

www.itsmorefuninthephilippines.com

Jack school - Dimakya Island Welcome to the World’s Best Diving Destination

reetings and welcome to the best diving in the world. In the Gfollowing pages you will see amazing underwater dive sites full of healthy reefs, beautiful fish, seascapes, sunken wrecks and much more. The Philippines is a wonderful combination of diversity. Our many islands and large landmasses provide an amazing array of habitats under the that attract some of the most unusual and sought after creatures in the world.

SCUBA diving is a highly-developed industry in the Philippines. Divers and non-divers will enjoy the facilities and amenities available in the wide choice of special destinations. Couple this with the exceptional quality of service and unpretentious hospitality of the Soft coral crab Filipino people and a visit to The Philippines becomes a sublime experience.

Some amazing reefs - like those in , Calamians and islands - are just a shore entry away. Visit Coron, Apo and Tubbataha for clear water, healthy and extreme dropoffs. Take a trip to to see rare thresher sharks. Numerous Marine Protected Areas provide a look at tiny and rare macro and muck creatures sought by divers worldwide.

The country has amazing geographic attractions. Combine this with a welcoming and outgoing culture and wonderful cuisines and you have a destination that truly “has it all”. Your Philippine Dive Team welcomes you to this wonderful world.

2 Baby sea turtles in Photojournalist & Author From the Author Tim Rock

have been fortunate enough to Ilive in close proximity to the Philippines and have visited this amazing country numerous times over the last three decades. I have written numerous diving guides for Lonely Planet and I shoot for Getty Images. This has taken me all over the world. I find the variety and diversity of I hope through these pages you will the undersea world in the be educated and thrilled at the great Philippines is really like no other diversity of the Philippines. I also place on the hope you will be planet. Whether Author and inspired to work it be a sandy whale shark to preserve and plain that is protect these home to myriad undersea odd and treasures that are unusual marine part of the rich creatures, a Coral Triangle. I wartime know from firsthand holding secrets experience, the of the past or a shark-filled dropoff Philippines is a special place. into the deep, of the sea, I am constantly and pleasantly Author Tim Rock has written over 50 surprised and rewarded every time I books about -Pacific diving make a trip to this vibrant country. destinations. He is an internationally published photojournalist, a Getty And I have watched as the dive Images Lonely Planet Collection industry has grown into a world- photographer and frequent visitor to class offering. the Philippines. He uses Nikon, Ikelite It is my pleasure and honor to and Aquatica photographic equipment. present to you this diving and snorkeling guide to the Philippines. Front Cover Photo © Jerome Kim

4 The PHILIPPINES

Luzon Sea

Southern

Palawan The

Tubbataha Reefs

Mindanao

Celebes Sea

5 CONTENTS

Welcome P. 2 and Environment P. 34 20) Bobby’s Garden P. 59 From the Author P. 4 Using This Guide P. 36 21) Alea Beach P. 60 Map P. 5 Dive Icons P. 37 22) Pasil Reef P. 60 Contents P. 6 23) San Miguel P. 60 Philippine Whale Sharks P. 61 Overview P. 8 Dive Destinations P. 39 History P.9 P. 62 Diving History P.10 Luzon P. 39 24) Clam City P. 64 War Remnants P 11 P. 39 25) Coral Gardens P. 65 Geography P. 12 1) Oryoku Maru P. 40 26) Alma Jane P. 66 Climate P. 13 2) USS P. 40 27) Sabang Wrecks P. 67 Language 3) El Capitan P. 41 28) West Escarcero P. 69 and Culture P. 14 Wreck Safety P. 41 29) Hole in the Wall P. 70 The People P. 16 4) San Quentin P. 42 30) The Canyons P. 70 Practicalities 31) Sinadigan Wall P. 71 Getting There P. 17 32) Washing Machine & Getting Around P. 17 33) Visas P. 18 Wall P. 72 Customs P. 18 Clothing P. 19 P. 74 Accommodations P. 19 34) Napantao MPA P. 76 Safety/Security P. 20 35) Padre Burgos P. 77 Money P. 20 36) Tangkaan MPA P. 78 Tipping P. 21 37) Turtle Rock P. 79 Health P. 21 38) Sunok P. 79 Electricity P. 22 Frogfish Shopping P. 22 Romblon P. 80 Communication P. 23 39) Alad Island and Time P. 23 Anilao P. 44 Sanctuary P. 81 Travel Insurance P. 23 5) Kirby’s Rock P. 45 40) Three P House P. 83 Philippine Diving P. 24 6) Sombrero Isl. P. 46 41) Lunas P. 84 7) Bajura P. 47 42) Magnificat P. 85 Diving Summary P.26 8) Sepok Wall P. 47 43) Agpanabat Marine Visibility 9) Mapating P. 48 Sanctuary P. 86 Water 10) Spring Bubbles P. 48 44) Logbon Coral Bring 11) Secret Bay P. 49 Canyon P. 87 Weather 12) Mainit P. 50 P. 50 The Visayas P. 88 The Best Dives P. 27 13) Twin Rocks P. 51 Boracay P. 89 Photography P. 28 14) Elmer’s P. 53 45) Cathedral Cave P. 89 15) Cathedral Rock P. 53 46) Yapak P. 90 Dive Courses P. 29 16) Basura 1 P. 54 47) P. Bonga 1 & 2 P. 90 Fitness P. 29 17) Basura 2 P. 55 48) Friday’s Rock P. 91 P. 30 Donsol/Ticao/ 49) Crocodile Isl. P. 91 P. 33 Masbate P. 56 50) Laurel Isl. 1 & 2 P. 92 Snorkeling P. 34 18) Manta Bowl P. 57 51) Nasog P. 92 Conservation 19) Bobby’s Wall P. 59 52) Dog Drift P. 93

6 107) Pinnacle Point P. 154 Juvenile batfish P. 128 108) Marissa 1,2,3 P. 154 Anda P. 129 109) Malipano Japanese 79) Panorama P. 131 Wrecks P. 154 80) Wonder Wall P. 131 Siargao Jellyfish 81) The Caverns P. 132 Lake P. 155 82) Coco White 110) Linosutan Coral South & North P. 132 Gardens P. 155 83) Snapper’s Cave P. 133 84) Dap Dap P. 133 Palawan P. 156 85) Birhen E & W Calamians P. 157 House Reef P. 134 111) Club Paradise 86) Neptune House P. 135 House Reef P. 158 Calaiut Island P. 160 Cabilao P. 136 112) Dimipac Isl. P. 160 Malapascua P. 94 87) Gorgonian Wall P. 138 113) Kyokuzan M. P. 161 53) Chocolate Isl. P. 95 88) Lighthouse 2 P. 138 P. 162 54) Gato Island P. 96 89) Lighthouse 1 P. 139 114) Apo Reef Sites P. 162 55) North Point P. 98 90) Fallen Tree P. 139 56) Lapus Pinnacle P. 98 91) Pangangan Wall P. 140 Coron P. 164 57) Bantigue. P. 99 92) Cambaquiz P. 140 Coron War 58) The Sand Patch P. 100 93) South Point P. 141 History P. 165 Thresher sharks P. 101 115) Okikawa MaruP. 166 59) Monad Shoal P. 102 Balicasag P. 142 116) Akitsushima P. 167 Malapascua 94) Black Forest P. 142 117) Lusong Wrecks P. 104 95) Diver’s Heaven P. 143 P. 167 118) Olympia Maru P. 168 Mactan & Cebu P. 106 Panglao P. 144 119) Irako P. 168 60) Tambuli Fish Feeding 96) Napaling P. 145 120) Tangat Wreck P. 169 Station P. 107 97) Doljo SanctuaryP. 145 121) Tangat 61) Kon Tiki Reef P. 107 98) Doljo Point P. 146 Gunboat P. 169 62) Marigondon P. 108 99) Gak Ang P. 146 122) Black Island 100) Tawala Sanc. P. 147 Wreck P. 170 P. 110 El Nido P. 171 63) Copton Point P. 111 Mimic 64) Panagsama Beach 123) Dilumacad P. 172 House Reef P. 111 124) Tres Marias P. 172 65) Pescador Isl. P. 112 125) Miniloc Island P. 172 66) Tongo Point P. 113 67) Talisay Wall P. 113 Tubbataha P. 173 126) Tubbataha /Dumaguette P. 114 North P. 174 68) Mainit P. 117 127) Tubbataha 69) Yapak P. 117 /Misamis South P. 176 70) Pura Vida House Oriental P. 148 Reef P. 118 101) Agutaya Reef P. 149 Index P. 178 71) Bonnet’s Corner P. 118 102) Medina U/W 72) Banca Wreck P. 119 Springs P. 150 Medical Facilities 73) The Car Wreck P. 120 103) Jigdup Slope Recompression 74) Dauin N & S P. 121 & Wall P. 150 Chambers P. 180 75) Masaplod Norte 104) Sunken Sanctuary P. 122 Cemetery P. 151 Inside Front/Back Covers: 76) Rock Pile P. 124 105) Old Volcano P. 151 77) Masaplod Norte Contacts for Philippine Sanctuary P. 125 P. 152 Department of Tourism 78) P. 126 106) Ligid Caves P. 153 Offices Worldwide

7 Overview

he Philippines has always been a dive destination favorite and with Tnew resorts on new island destinations popping up along with the tried and true, it is becoming one of the most popular places in the diving world to visit. Toss in reasonable prices and a normally favorable exchange rate for most of the world’s leading currencies and you have a real gem dive destination to explore. It is one of the most diverse countries in Asia. Sitting along the eastern reaches of , it has the (Philippine Sea) at its lengthy east coast. Malaysia and Indonesia are south and southwest and the is to Eating green mango the west. To the north are Taiwan and China. This convergence of sea and various landmasses has formed the richest area in the world. Known as the “Coral Triangle”, the Philippines is at the northern point of the triangle that also includes Papua New Guinea and Indonesia/Malaysia. In this cradle of diversity more species of both corals and fish can be found than any other place on the planet. Then within the vast Philippine isles are smaller … the Sibuyan, Sulu and Visayan. Each has its own biosphere and characteristics, many odd and unusual creatures thriving in their own special worlds. The country has remained stable and a favorite for travelers. Above water is as luxuriant as below creating a natural sensory overload. And, there are cultures within cultures here. It is a fascinating country Bringing cattle to market to dive and visit.

8 Sunset over Bay by Mall of Asia

History

he first people in the Philippines were hunter-gatherers. However Tbetween 3,000 BC and 2,000 BC people learned to farm. They grew rice and domesticated animals. From the tenth century AD, Filipinos traded with China. Then in 1521 Ferdinand Magellan landed in the Philippines and claimed the islands for Spain. The Philippines is named after King Philip II of Spain (1556-1598). It was a Spanish colony for over 300 years. Friars converted the Filipinos to Catholicism. In 1898 came war between the USA and Spain. Spain lost and ceded the Philippines to the USA. Then, in 1942 in White Beach, Puerto Galera WWII, the Philippines were in Japanese hands. American troops returned and recaptured Manila in February 1945. The Americans left Subic Bay in 1993. Fidel Ramos became president. He improved the infrastructure in the Philippines including the electricity supply. Industry was privatized and the economy began to grow more rapidly. Today there is reason to be optimistic for the future. The population of the Philippines is now a robust 103 million.

9 Diving History

n the Philippines, the birth of is generally said to have taken Iplace in Anilao, which is still a popular dive destination to this day. The pioneering Aquatropical Divers opened in 1966 and scuba tourism was born. That makes sport diving here one of the earliest founded anywhere on the globe. Since then, the sport has blossomed, expanding to areas like Puerto Galera and now pretty much all across the country. Divers used small traditional outriggers back then to get to the dive sites and many beach dive areas were found. The Philippines was also at the forefront of the technical diving revolution in the mid 1990s. Puerto Galera, well placed logistically from a gas and equipment point of view and with deep water just off shore, was the starting point. Other dive centers followed soon after. meccas such as and Subic Bay opened up to tek. took the world scuba depth Finishing a dive record in 2001 off Puerto Galera. That put the Philippines on the radar of technical divers internationally. Now, the Philippines still offers outriggers, but these are custom-made for diving. They are quite large and comfortable with plenty of room to relax, to walk around, to put dive and camera gear and to get dressed. These boats have modern safety features as well as toilets, small kitchens and covered cabins. And modern dive boats are being introduced. While growing in spurts over the decades, the industry in the last ten years has seen phenomenal growth. Modern facilities and beautiful resorts combined with excellent multi-lingual training beckon divers from all over the world. Many local guides are highly certified, excellent marine life spotters and extremely qualified and instructors.

10 Diver exits a jail area of Olympia Maru, Coron

Wartime Abound

he WWII years and even earlier 1944, when US Navy strike Thave left an undersea legacy attacked a Japanese supply fleet at that now benefits divers. Subic Bay, anchor in Coron Bay and north just north of Manila, is a popular . wreck diving spot. The American Today some of the ships are quite WWII victim USS New York and shallow and snorkelers can enjoy many others, including remnants their coral-laden hulls. Others are from Spanish Manila Galleon days, large freighters that attract all sorts are covered in marine life. of marine life and are adorned in Following the exit of US troops after brilliant soft corals and black coral. the eruption of Mt. Pinatubo, the Time has turned them into shipreefs bay is now open for exploration and and divers can explore the reef hosts wreck divers, deep tek and aspects above and also penetrate to lots of training. see the artifacts of a wartime ship. Subic has provided shelter for Malapascua also has a few wartime ships for many decades. The first coral-laden wartime wrecks. major naval base was Spanish. On top of this, some places like Another very popular area lies Puerto Galera have purposely sunk south in Coron. For diving, Coron's shipwrecks which attract shoals of history started on September 24, fish and are good for wreck training. Mt. Mayon, Luzon

Geography

here’s a saying that the Philippines “has it all” and this is certainly true Tabove the sea (as well as below). Northern terraced mountains give way to steamy southern rainforest. In many parts of the country rice fields sit in the shadow of volcanic cones (some still active). Their past eruptions have created some extremely fertile making farming popular for nearly half of the Philippine land. And the Philippines boasts over 7,000 islands (official count is 7,107) and some stunning, coconut covered atolls. 2,000 of the isles in the Philippines Limestone cliffs, Coron have inhabitants. In contrast, it is said 2,500 don’t have names. Luzon and Mindanao are the largest islands making up two-thirds of the country’s landmass. 66% of the country’s land is found on these two islands. In fact, most of the islands here were formed from past and volcanic and tectonic activity. The Philippines is a huge archipelago stretching 1,850 kilometers (1,150 mi) from the 15th to the 20th parallels north latitude. Landmass is 300,000 square kilometers (115,831 sq mi).

12 Climate

here are two seasons in the Tcountry, the wet season and the dry season, based upon the amount of rainfall. This is dependent as well on your location in the country. The average year-round temperature measured from all the weather stations in the Philippines, except Baguio City, is 26.6 °C (79.9 °F). Cooler days are usually felt in the month of January with temperature averaging at 25.5 °C (77.9 °F) and the warmest days, in the month of

May with a mean 28.3 °C (82.9 °F). Anilao sunset Dry season is November into June and this is considered the best time to visit for diving, although diving can be done year ‘round. In fact, during rainy season in places like The Visayas, the sea flattens out and makes it easy to get to most any site. The rains are dictated by the amihan (northeast monsoon) and the hagabat (southwest monsoon). The southwest monsoon sometimes brings winds with it and that can make some sites inaccessible, so check with your dive operator about his particular and how it is affected. The Philippines are in the typhoon belt and occasionally get storms that blow across the western Pacific. Weather in the Philippines is monitored and managed by the Philippine Atmospheric, Geophysical and Astronomical Services Administration (PAGASA). Snorkeling, Calamians

13 Language & Culture

Language - A total of 182 native languages are spoken in the country and four languages have been classified as extinct. There are 13 indigenous languages with at least one million native speakers: Tagalog, Cebuano, Ilokano, Hiligaynon, Waray-Waray, Kapampangan, Coastal Bikol, Pangasinan, Maranao, Maguindanao, Kinaray-a, and Tausug. One or more is spoken natively by more than 90% of the population. he good news for visitors is that English is also very widely spoken. So Tcommunication in the Philippines is normally very easy. Menus are in English at restaurants and hotels and stores have English signage and English-speaking staff. Thus, the Philippines is considered one of the most visitor-friendly countries in Asia.

Culture - The Philippine culture is famous worldwide for its colorful dances, songs and tasty cuisine. The culture of the Philippines has been heavily influenced by both Asian and Western cultures. The Philippines was first settled by Melanesians. Today, few in numbers, they preserve the traditional way of life and culture. After them, Austronesians, or Malayo- Polynesians, arrived on the islands. Today the Austronesian culture is very evident in the ethnicity, language, food, dance and almost every aspect of the culture. While dance, cinema, music and indigenous art are strong, travellers are most likely to encounter the many Filipino food dishes. Rice is a staple. Popular dishes such as adobo (a meat stew made from either pork or chicken), lumpia (meat or vegetable rolls), pancit (a noodle dish), and lechón (roasted pig) are popularly served and should be experienced. Also, some spicy dishes, like the ceviche called the “Bicol Express” are not to be missed by seafood lovers. The

Spicy peppers lively culture and cuisine of the Philippines add to any holiday visit.

14 Traditional dance, Manila Rice paddies, Bicol

The People - According to the 2010 Census, there were 92,337,852 in the Philippines and about 10 million living outside the Philippines. The Filipino identity, with its Austronesian roots, was developed with Malay, Indian, Chinese, Japanese, Spanish and American influences. Today, this very eclectic culture creates a welcoming and friendly people. Over 80% of the Philippines is Catholic. The name Filipino was derived from the term "las Islas Filipinas" ("the Philippine Islands"). Many Filipinos refer to themselves as "Pinoy" for a man or "Pinay" for a lady. This is slang formed by taking the last four letters of "Filipino" and adding the Y. or visitors, Filipinos offer a very Finteresting and proud culture that they are happy, even eager, to share. This natural hospitality makes visitors return frequently, whether it be for diving or just for a pleasant holiday. Visitors will find a great range of education and wealth in this country. Education is becoming a priority in order to stem poverty and improve the standard of living Donsol kids of all Filipinos. 16 Practicalities diver friendly with allowances for dive gear. Getting There - Manila and Cebu Not all destinations have daily City are the major international flights. Schedules and routes gateway cities to the Philippines. frequently change, so plan ahead, They host major and lesser airlines especially during peak seasons like coming from all Asia airports, the Christmas, Chinese New Year, Easter , , the USA and and Philippine summer vacation Guam. Philippine Airlines (PAL) is (April, May). pretty much considered the country’s national airline with a Visas - Nationals from 156 route network that spans 35 foreign countries that have diplomatic cities and 29 domestic points. relations with the Philippines may enter the Philippines receiving a Getting Around - There are car Tourist Visa upon arrival. This allows rental companies but for visitors for a maximum of thirty (30) days, using local transport is usually the provided these entry regulations are best option. Public transportation is met: cheap and one can avoid trying to 1) your passport is valid for at least fit in with the local driving style. 6 months beyond your period of One can take tricycles and taxis to stay in The Philippines local eateries and stores. For long 2) you present a return or outward coastal trips to new dive bound ticket to your country of destinations, there are experienced drivers in spacious, air-con cars and vans are available. For getting from a major air hub to your destination in- country, there are numerous daily flights to Philippine cities and islands. For divers, Philippine Airlines is Tricycle, Cebu

17 Watermelon stand, Bohol origin or to a next country of divers like to visit. So just wear light destination. A few countries have breathable clothes and comfortable special arrangements allowing for shoes. Sandals or jogging shoes longer stays. Chinese Nationals, work well for shopping and beach require a special permit. If planning walking. Wide-brimmed hats are to stay longer, extensions must be handy when island hopping and out arranged with the Bureau of on dive boats. Wear beach attire Immigration. Tourist visas from 7 to only around the resorts. Dress as 59 days are also available at the Philippine Embassy or Consulate in some countries. For your particluar country/nationality see: www.dfa.gov.ph/consular- services/visa-information

Customs - For the latest in passenger guidelines for Customs regulations and Duty-Free allowance, visit the website of Philippines Bureau of Customs at: www.customs.gov.ph

Clothing - It is generally warm and tropical in the Philippines, especially for destinations that Busuanga

18 you would at home when away from the tourist hotels. Filipinos place a high priority on appearance. Wearing appropriate clothing to formal occasions and when visiting places of worship is appreciated.

Accommodations - Once Vida Homes Condos, Dauin considered a budget destination, that has all changed in dive destinations. One can truly the past couple of decades. Small, pick the place for any travel budget. reasonable hotels are still available but the level of service and rooms Safety & Security - Negative news has risen to five-star in many abroad sells and sadly has an Philippine destinations. Boutique impact on one’s perception of safety hotels catering especially to divers in the Philippines. However, with excellent international fusion incidents are rare. Overall the cuisine, spas, spacious rooms and Philippines is a safe country for reliable and fast internet can now travellers. Visitors, however, should be found in many of the popular be aware that there continues to be

Amun Ini, Anda

19 a risk of politically motivated violence in parts of the country. Travel to some portions of Mindanao, in the Southern Philippines, should therefore be avoided. In particular: Sulu archipelago, Basilan, Lanao del Sur/Norte, North Cotabato, Maquindanao and parts of the . Visitors should also use common sense: don’t get involved with drugs or drinking or go places you are unfamiliar with late at night. Do not argue or criticize and avoid public scenes. If needed, the emergency Puerto Galera number is 117.

Money - The Philippine currency is for some transactions. Upon the Philippine Peso (PHP). It is internationally arriving in Manila, divided up in 100 Centavos. The US the airport offers foreign exchange Dollar is the most recognized counters. Banks are open from 9 foreign currency and can be used am- 3 p.m., M-F 5 days-a-week.

Cabilao sunrise

20 Automatic Teller Machines are available in the major cities. Money changers are open nearly 24 hours in the big cities. Credit cards are widely accepted, sometimes with a 3 - 3.5% a charge. A passport or similar I.D. may be required.

Tipping - Tips of 10% of the billing amount are common practice. Whether or not to tip is a personal decision. Taxi drivers may try to get their cut by saying they have no change. In most restaurants and hotels, a 10% service charge may Market onions be included.

fever vaccination is required if you Health - No immunization is come from infected areas. Ask your needed for The Philippines. Yellow doctor for advice about malaria prophylaxis. It is recommended only for a few isolated islands. Dengue fever is prevalent in some dive regions as well so mosquito repellent is recommended. Be wise and carry health insurance and a small medical kit with the mosquito repellant. The more you go off the beaten track, the more necessary it is to take additional precautions. Hospitals are available in Manila, Puerto Princesa and Cebu. Ladies should bring sanitary supplies as usually only “napkins” are available locally. Drinking bottled water is also advised as many areas do not have Cowboy, Matapalay potable water supplies.

21 diving liveaboards. In Evening market most resorts there are plenty of sockets in the rooms to charge camera and strobe batteries and work on the laptop editing photos.

Shopping - A visit to a busy and bustling Shopping Mall like Mall of Asia, Ayala Center, SM Megamall, Electricity - Power is generally 220 Shangri-La Plaza or Greenhills Volts, 60 Hz. and luxury hotels in Shopping Center is worth the Manila and Cebu may have 110 experience. Opening hours are Volts. For divers, laptops, tablets, normally 10 am-8 pm. Prices are set camera chargers, smart phones, etc, and most have camera and/or usually can be used in the electronics stores in case an extra Philippines, as in most other SD card or power adapter is countries of the world. Look for the following statement on the charger: 'INPUT: 100-240V, 50/60 Hz'. The actual wall female plugs can vary from the US style two flat pins to the flat pins with a round ground. And sometime a Type C socket with round pins is found. You will need an adapter for European chargers. Power fluctuations are less frequent these days, however, still common in The Philippines. Blackouts occasionally do occur, so pack a flashlight. Many dive centers have camera rooms with charging areas as do Fresh lechon

22 needed. Visiting public Computer center, Donsol markets is fun and there is usually one in every village great and small. Be prepared to bargain in these places. Look for wooden carvings, tribal items, religious figures, dried fruits, musical instruments make buying a general travel and woven pineapple/banana insurance policy a part of the travel fabrics and baskets. plan before departure. Generally liabilities and insurance coverages Communication - are basic and limited in the There are 3 major mobile phone Philippines. For divers, DAN diving providers: Globe, Smart and insurance has a travel option and Suncellular. One can get a SIM card your local insurance provider may and go prepaid. One can also use also offer travel insurance through one’s phone as a mobile hotspot for your home policy. WiFi. All are available in cities and major tourist places such as Boracay Island, Mactan Island (Cebu), Puerto Galera ( Or.), (Bohol) and some places in Palawan. Internet cafés are around but slowly disappearing as cell phones get more powerful. Call for directory assistance in Manila 114 or 112 in the provinces.

Time - Local time is GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) + 8 throughout the Philippines.

Travel Insurance - It is smart to Bahura pool

23 Philippine Diving

ivers come to the Philippines sunken seascapes, war wrecks and Dfor a number of reasons but secluded bays that offer it all, from tops on the list are three items. First, intro diving, to basic certification to they come for dive training. This specialty dives (like wreck diving, country has such a variety of rescue and ) to

24 Thresher shark, Monad Shoal

instructor training and special tek various frogfish species. Nowhere in training can all be done here. the world but in this Coral Triangle Divers also come to see a vast can these creatures be seen in such array of macro creatures. These are abundance. It has evolved into a highly unusual fish, invertebrates specialty and highly-trained like shrimps and crabs and even divemasters have sharp eyes that odd cephalopods like mimic can spot the proper habitat and pick octopus and blue-ring octopus or these creatures out. Some make

25 amazingly colorful and unusual have equipment for rent and most photographs. dive shops have a decent selection Thirdly, divers come here just to of mask/fins/ should you enjoy the diversity of the reefs and want to buy your gear upon arrival. marine life, relax in the fine Check ahead and reserve your gear. facilities and enjoy the amenities and cuisines and friendliness of the Weather – You can dive year-round Filipinos. in the Philippines, but there are three distinct seasons that affect Diving Summary dive conditions. December through March is the northeast monsoon Visibility – Depending on the that can bring strong winds. April location and the weather, visibility through June is usually dry with can range from 15-150 ft. (5-45m). warm days and little wind. July Water is generally clear and warm through November is the southwest in most locales. monsoon, which is wet but the water is warm. Air average 25-32°C/78- 90°F with high relative humidity.

Courses – With walls, currents and wrecks, it’s a good idea to take Deep Diver, Drift Diver and/or Wreck Giant frogfish Diver courses. Technical diving on Water Temperature – The the deep wrecks requires special Philippines has nice warm water, training. Many dive centers offer varying between 23-30°C/73-86°F certification now and that depending on the area and season. opens up diving in special situations, like extending bottom Bring - Anywhere from a times on deeper wrecks or at deep to 3mm usually covers water cleaning stations. The every situation. If of luggage Philippines is one of the most active is a problem, most dive operations dive training countries in the world.

26 Gorgonian sea fans

The Best Dives

The Philippines has thousands of Dive – Tubbataha is dives to choose from but some the premier marine park in this stand out. Here are some of the country. Isolated far out to sea, it highlight dives: can only be visited during calm periods when the sea is flat. Big Beach Dive – It is hard to beat the marine life like manta rays and walk-in dive at Busuanga’s Dimakya hammerhead sharks can be found Island. Sea turtles, swirling jacks along sheer, coral-covered dropoffs. and dugongs are always a possibility. Plus the macro critters WWII Wreck Dive - The Okikawa are diverse and abundant. Maru lies in a currenty area that keeps the ship bathed in water Shark Dive – While has movement. So the coral growth is consistent whale shark action, lush. The bow is mangled but holds Monad Shoal at Malapascua Island a forest of black coral. is the one place in the world where divers consistently see thresher Macro Dive - The Rockpile in sharks at cleaning stations. Dauin has small steel pyramids, cars, and steel crates and is home Reef Dive – The Black Forest at to many critters like frogfish, ghost Balicasag is a haven for hundreds of pipefish, spiny seahorses and even sea turtles of all sizes and ages and harlequin shrimp. Sandy and full of a tornado of bigeye jacks. tiny surprises. Apo Island

Photography

bove and below the Using an app like Vivid-Pix also APhilippines has an amazing aids achieving proper color in post variety of landscapes, seascapes, production editing. creatures and people to GoPro cameras are quite popular photograph. Taking a camera along now with many travelling divers. should certainly be part of any Using a dedicated color filter gives Philippines holiday. best results with GoPro. For divers, look for shops that Most boats now have camera offer courses like the PADI Digital freshwater buckets and most dive Underwater Photographer and shops have dedicated camera rinse perhaps combine that with the areas too. Coral Reef Conservation and/or Fish Identification to be able to understand and to capture the beauty of the marine life in these waters. There are not many high end camera stores outside of Manila. For serious photographers, it is best to bring everything needed including back-up batteries and chargers. If one edits while traveling, bring a laptop as well. Rinse tank SSI and PADI are especially well- represented here. To take courses during a dive holiday, check ahead as the better dive centers offer course in many languages and a broad range of specialties.

Fitness - Diving properly and safely requires a certain good fitness level. Proper fitness will reduce risk of injury and accident. Remember, divers operate in a water world somewhat foreign to humans. Take some time to start a fitness routine prior to a dive trip, get a medical check-up and Yoga, Malapascua remember to stay hydrated and rested while on a dive holiday. One can also help prevent things fitness programs that may fit well like cramping by doing yoga and with a diving regimen. other stretching moves. Many hotel Spas also offer relaxing massages spas in the Philippines now offer that soothe sore muscles after a yoga courses and other such light long dive day.

Pool session at Asia Divers

29 Checking NITROX levels

Philippine Technical Diving

hile most people think of penetration and diving Wcolder, deeper waters as and all the way up to places for technical diving, the instructor through a series of skill warm, clear waters of the development courses. Even cave Philippines are ideal to learn one or diving has taken root in places like more aspects of technical diving. Siargao Island. At least five Deep walls, sharky points and certification agencies are numerous WWII shipwrecks are all represented with classes held in venues that beckon some sort of venues like Subic Bay, Puerto technical experience. Starting from Galera, Malapascua and many the use of NITROX in recreational others. diving, which extends bottom times For many, technical diving opens in places like Monad Shoal’s up a whole of undersea thresher shark viewing area, to exploration, providing new planned penetration into the deeper challenges and learning shipwrecks in Subic Bay, tek diving experiences. Each tek discipline has has found a place in the different course pre-requisites with Philippines. different aims and goals. Divers can learn proper deep Discuss specific tek needs and diving techniques, staged deco, goals with the suitably equipped double tank, sidemount, wreck dive centers. Coleman shrimp in fire urchin Batfish and diver, Anilao briefing

Liveaboards - There are currently good, featuring both international many liveaboards operating around and some savory local specialties. the Philippines and their popularity Check with your operator to see if seems to be growing with new any extras are offered like free routes and venues being offered NITROX, airport transfers and that every season. It pays to do a bit of sort of perk. Do a bit of research to research to see if the liveaboard trip find the best fit for you and what you envision is actually the one you want both above and below the being offered. Some can be quite water. luxurious while others can just be a notch above camping. Snorkeling - Most of the popular The liveaboards provide a very reef diving destinations also have convenient way to see the far away good house reefs and shallow bays sites and visit the diverse natural that offer snorkelers a place to parks like Apo Reef and Tubbataha. spend long hours enjoying the reef A liveaboard trip is highly and its inhabitants. As the water recommended for the hard-core here is normally very clear, diver who wants to see a lot of the especially at morning high , and Philippines’ undersea world. They shore access is easy at many normally offer the usual dive until beachside resorts, snorkeling is a you drop agenda of three or four very popular pastime. daytime dives and a night dive Many local people come to the interspersed with ample meals and venues with their families, naps. Food can be varied and very especially on weekends, just for the

33 snorkeling alone. The corals in the Philippines are healthy due to current flow, so be well aware of the currents in the area you wish to snorkel. Also, some places have a lot of small boat traffic. Its very dangerous to snorkel around these lanes and the fishermen really don’t look for or expect snorkelers to be there. Carry a flag or a float or, better yet, just Snorkeler & baby sea turtle avoid the high traffic banca areas. Snorkeling can be especially rewarding at wild places with clear another as currents can come up water like Apo Island and quickly here. Tubbataha (along the tops of the dropoffs). But make sure your Conservation /Environment - This boatman knows where you are and country is making great strides to you both keep an eye on one protect it’s marine environment. It is still far from perfect as there is no

Jack school & snorkeler Dynamite damage on the left, healthy reef on the right

federal agency that really has the tourism business due to it’s far- resources to police the vast seas of sighted decades old program of reef the islandy country. But incidents of protection. reported dynamite fishing are Small marine preserves are being becoming less frequent as established and being looked after fishermen become educated about by villages, resorts and locally the long-term damage this and formed conservation groups. The other forms of detrimental fishing economic gain translates into can do to the world of the coral community prosperity. There are reef. many marine preserve success People are also seeing how they stories now in the Philippines as can benefit from using conservation this philosophy gains in popularity. as an ally. Donsol’s whale shark viewing industry has Dugong conservation made the entire region there properous. Malapascua has seen the same thing happen with people coming from around the world to see thresher sharks. Apo Island enjoys a brisk

35 Green sea turtle

Using This Dive Guide

his guide, produced by the and, most importantly, be safe. TPhilippine Department of Have proper training, conditioning Tourism, cannot fully cover all of and well-maintained equipment to the dive sites and underwater venture into this amazing offerings in The Philippines. With so underwater world. many beautiful, natural and diverse It is the hope of the Department dive destinations in the country of Tourism that every diver will both (and more being found every week) enjoy and respect our natural that is an almost impossible task. attractions. We ask that you help us But this guide attempts to present a to preserve, protect and conserve broad spectrum of what a visiting the ocean and its resources by diver may see above and below the taking care not to grab, break or surface of Mother Ocean. kick coral. Please do not harass Through this book, readers can marine life or marine mammals. enjoy the many regions of the And take only pictures and leave Philippines to help plan for the only bubbles. That way our amazing perfect dive holiday. Philippine reefs will be around for We ask that divers remember that generations of divers to appreciate the ocean is a beautiful place but a for many years to come. strange environment for humans. In the following pages please find Please always respect the ocean regional descriptions, a brief

36 The Dive Site Icons

ach of the 126 dive sites listed diver may or may not see or Ein this book comes with a set of encounter. Talk to your local guide icons for quick visual reference as to ensure that you are able to see to what each spot has to offer. These and do what you want and what are just suggested visuals of what a your skill level dictates.

Good Marine Life/Preserve Large marine life and pelagics Snorkeling/free diving areas Deep dive Rock, wall and/or cave(s) Shipwreck or remnants Good for macro photography Possible currents/drift dive Good for wide angle photos Shore/beach dive summary of sites found in the for the information provided here. various regions and short selected Please do the homework and dive site descriptions of what a book with a reputable . diver may encounter when going Many can be found contacting: below the waves to see the beauty www.divephilippines.com of the Philippine reefs. The information in the site descriptions ranges from brief to detailed. The dive sites described include some known favorites dived frequently by many divers for decades. Also, there are newly described sites only dived a few times by a few. Most information provided is based on the author’s observation at the sites. Information is provided without prejudice but is not guaranteed accurate or complete. Use it at your own risk. The Shallow boulders, Philippine Department of Tourism Sinadingan Wall, Puerto Galera and the author assume no liability

37 Clownfish & purple tip sea anemone Philippine Dive Destinations

Luzon Dive Sites infrastructure, as well as accommodations ranging from anila is located on the huge modest to luxurious. There is a sea Misland of Luzon and as a park with , sharks and result, this may be the first island in turtles and a number of dive shops, the Philippines that divers many offering technical training and encounter. While some of the areas wreck diving certificates. around the city are not suitable for Most of Subic Bay’s best diving is diving, sites to the north, south and in the harbor, on the historic in Subic Bay are quite interesting. wrecks. For visibility, the best time Manila holds dive and travel centers to go is February through May but where one can book trips, get new the bay has little in the way of gear and get repairs. If travelling currents and can be dived year from afar, Manila is a good place to ‘round. Visibility ranges from 100 ft. rest and get rid of jetlag before (30m) to very low so ask about the continuing on to your resort. best season. Once out of the big city, there are Snorkelers will like The Canyon popular dive areas like Subic Bay off Grande Island and there are and Anilao. The relative newcomer some other coral spots in the bay is Bicol which features Donsol and for both snorkeling and diving. Ticao Island and its mantas and With all the wreck and tek, Subic whale sharks. Other dive areas also has a fully-functional outside of Manila include La Union recompression chamber staffed by and Bolinao. experienced professionals. Subic Bay

longopo, on Subic Bay, is a O2.5 to 3.5 hour drive northwest of metro Manila. One 1 can more easily take a 20-minute 2 flight from Manila. Or take a local bus if time isn’t a big deal. It is a Subic Bay free port (duty-free) zone with a Airport number of hotels on offer and a good night life. Nearby you’ll find 3 several fair beaches with basic 4 39 Goby in wire coral polyps

1) Oryoku Maru fish, including a resident shoal of Icons: , butterflyfish and Location: Off Alava Pier sweetlips. It also features some soft Depth: 50-90 ft. (15-27m) and hard corals, sponges and hydroids. The current can pick up he Oryoku was leveled after the here, and the visibility, which can Twar as it sits in the shipping vary from 10-50 ft. (3-15m), is channel and posed a navigational usually better just after high tide. It . It is not much to see and isn’t a real deep dive so there is visibility isn’t usually all that good. time to explore. Divers like this wreck for its bloody history. Sunk in a U.S. air attack 2) USS New York during WWII, it was subsequently Icons: discovered that more than 1,600 Location: 15 min from Alava Pier U.S. prisoners of war were onboard, Depth: 50-92 ft. (15-28m) all of whom perished in the attack. Not much is left to suggest it was Not far from the Oryoku is a dive once a Japanese passenger vessel, on a US considered a but it’s now home to a variety of must dive for those diving the

40 vessel. The huge aft propeller is also Wreck intact. The battleship is easy to penetrate Wreck diving can be safe and for those tek and wreck trained. It is fascinating. Penetration of best to have an experienced guide shipwrecks, however, is a skilled as the vessel is massive (360 specialty and should not be ft./109m long) so one could easily attempted without proper training. get lost in the maze of corridors and Wrecks are often unstable; they passageways. can be silty, deep and disorienting. The New York holds sponges, Use an experienced guide to view hydroids and a variety of soft corals wrecks and the amazing coral with their soft coral crabs. Lionfish communities that have developed are ubiquitous. Other fish life on them. includes sweetlips, fusiliers and batfish. Look inside the main wrecks of Subic Bay. The battleship interior passageway for groupers. was commissioned in 1899 as the There is a shoal of USS Rochester and subsequently cruising around the wreck at times. renamed New York. It saw action in Divers sometimes see bluespotted Manila Bay during the Spanish rays, especially along the muddy American War, in China during the bottom of the bay. Chinese Revolution and throughout Visibility on the wreck varies from the Pacific during WWI. 10 ft. - 50 ft. (3 - 15m). To best She was decommissioned in 1932 enjoy the ship, plan two or more and was stripped of most fittings dives to see it all properly. and lay at anchor for 10 years off Alava Pier. In early WWII, retreating 3) El Capitan U.S. forces scuttled her to prevent Icons: the massive guns from falling into Location: Ilanin Bay the hands of the advancing Depth: 16-65 ft. (5-19m) Japanese army. Today USS New York rests on her Easy, shallow, a great history and port side in 100 ft. (30m), relatively marine life make this a very popular intact. The hull has the large holes wreck in Subic Bay. El Capitan is the demolition experts blasted in it certainly one of the better wrecks to sink her. The large guns have for photography. Visibility, as with escaped salvage and are still most sites in Subic Bay, ranges from mounted along both sides of the

41 fair to good. Try to hit it just after 4) San Quintin high tide for the best vis. Icons: This is a small freighter. It had a Location: Near Grande Island major role in WWII and, even Depth: 40-53 ft. (12-16 m) though damaged, served throughout the war and was awarded a Battle Most of the wrecks here were Star for service. It sunk during a sunk during World War II, but the storm after the war. oldest known dive site within the It is actually the USS Majaba (AG- bay is the resting place for this 43) and was built in 1919. This is a steam-powered galleon sunk during penetrable wreck sitting on the port the Spanish-American War in 1898. side with the bow at 65 ft. (20m). The Spanish scuttled the San Marine life includes soft corals and Quintin at the mouth of the bay to sponges, hydroids and clouds of hinder American warships from small tropical fish. Around the entering Subic. wreck are tropicals like glasseyes, The wreck is now little more than , tangs and gobies. Due to rubble but surrounded by marine the depth, this is an excellent life, much of it larger than is found novice wreck dive site. within the bay itself. Look for wrasses, gobies, glasseyes, tangs, spotted sweetlips, lobsters and crabs. Go with a local guide who understands currents as this is one spot in the bay that has them, thus the marine life. But, one can get swept off the wreck and into open water. The site is somewhat exposed so sea conditions can pick up quite quickly, making waves and complicating exit and entry a bit. However, the currents make visibility better here than in the bay. Other good wrecks in Subic include the Seian Maru, the Japanese Patrol Boat, the Sakura Maru and the deep wreck LST. Lionfish in hold

42 Soft coral crab

43 Anilao

ust south of Manila is 16, 17 Anilao JProvince with some of the best underwater diversity in the Mabini Philippines. This place is very 15 popular on the weekends as it is 7 13, 14 Batangas 6 11 only a couple of hours drive from 5 Bay 8 12 Manila. Traffic can be forgiving and 9, 10 you can make the trip quickly on a Maricaban mostly good tollway road. Be warned, on the way back, if you’re heading into Manila, traffic can be Philippine diving and there are well heavy to gridlocked, so give over 60 sites in the area from Janao yourself plenty of time and leave Bay, around Bagalangit Point, in the Anilao very early, especially if flying Maricaban Island area and spilling out of Manila the same day. into Batangas Bay. There are some At the area, the port showcase marine preserves full of village of Anilao appears and the fish, sea turtles and big jack road meanders through hilly and schools. And Anilao is famous for its lush terrain dotted with weekend rare small creatures seen while retreats, dive centers and resorts. doing macro and muck diving. This is considered the birthplace of The hillside and beach locations are open to nice sea breezes and most face the western sunset but there isn’t really a central tourist area, so pick a nice place to stay with good food and entertainment. While the weekends are big here, during the week it can be quiet. Check for midweek deals. The water gets cooler in January and February, around 25C/77F. The best months are November thru May. Visibility is consistently fairly good. There are a number of marine sanctuaries and Seahorse that trend is growing.

44 Anilao area coastal village

5) Kirby’s Rock normally heads straight down to the Icons: deepest part of the dive that is a Location: North of Maricaban stunning sunken pinnacle at 65 ft. Island’s western point (19m) to 100 ft. (30m). Healthy Depth: 10-130 ft. (3-40m) corals, plenty of anthias and shoaling fusiliers highlight this deep irby’s (sometimes called Kerbis) oasis of life. Be careful as this area Kis a nice combination of deep is healthy due to the strong currents and shallow. It can be two dives in that sometimes roll over it. But you one with a deep sea mount full of can usually hide on one side away life at the start and then a mini-wall from the current if its bothersome. and shallow pinnacle a bit farther Then head back up to the mini- on in the dive. You don’t have to go wall starting in 70 ft. (21m), keeping to the deepest part of the dive to see the reef on the left. Here you will the beautiful sunken mounts or find plenty of nudibranchs, hiding rock. The top of it is at 65 ft. (19m) lionfish and small, brilliant yellow but the sand below is at 125 ft. sea cucumbers. (37m) or so. As the dive ends, head into the Divers enter the water at a buoy shallows where a pinnacle pokes shrouded by the high cliffline of the out of the water. Between the elongated Caban Island. One pinnacle and the Caban cliffs,

45 there’s a crack full of sea life Large claw lobster and more of the colorful anthias. Look also for a good selection of nudibranchs, juvenile batfish and lots of silvery baitfish near the surface. They are good entertainment and well-lit as photo subjects as divers explore and decompress from this dive. that further enhance the illusion. It’s 6) Sombrero Island home to some great diving as well, Icons: notably at adjacent Beatrice Rock. Location: North of Maricaban Crevices, tunnels and piles of Depth: 20-90 ft. (6-27m) large boulders are scattered off Sombrero Island’s northern cliffs, Sombrero looks exactly like its and the dropoff delves to 90ft. namesake. A sombrero is Tagalog (27m) on the island’s western side. for a high-crowned hat with a wide One should follow the guide as brim. Bancas like to pull up to the currents are usually strong here and white sand beach where divers, a good guide can keep a diver out snorkelers and beachgoers can get of trouble and still allow for off, eat lunch and have a surface viewing of pelagic action. Rainbow interval. Explore the beach and runners and yellowtail fusiliers and snorkel the shallows and the rocks lots of anthias play in the currents here to see some nice table corals and blue water column. There are and an occasional sea turtle. some beautiful staghorn coral The island has some impressive gardens and lots of bright yellow drop-offs falling away from its edge crinoids at shallower depths.

46 The reef itself is festooned with soft corals and crinoids. Follow the gorgonians, black coral, shells and guide to avoid any current problems lots of soft corals. Jacks, snappers for a rewarding dive. and, with some luck, hawksbill turtles will be on the reef. 8) Sepok Wall Icons: 7) Bajura Location: Westernmost Point of Icons: Caban Island Location: Caban’s North Point Depth: 14-100 ft. (4-30 m) Depth: 40-121 ft. (12-36m)

Bajura reef, just off the northern point of Caban Island, is more than a half mile (.5km) long. When it is calm (low current), snorkelers Soft corals and barrel sponges will share the area with fishermen who move in for a chance to catch something from their small Sepok Wall, also called Philip’s outriggers. Garden, is covered in a variety of Bajura’s fish life is similar to soft and hard corals and drops off Sombrero’s but more prolific. Lots impressively from west of Sepok of caves and overhangs provide Point to the southwest. This is a resting places for whitetip sharks, good place for macro photography, and the reef is also home to although there are opportunities for parrotfish, sweetlips, snappers, wide angle. But nudibranch lovers angelfish, batfish and an occasional will find this site rewarding with eagle ray. The current is usually many various and colorful members strong here, which keeps the coral of the Chromodoris family making vibrant and healthy. These include this site home. It does get its share table, staghorn and smaller of pelagics cruising by so it doesn’t mushroom corals, as well as a lot of hurt to look off in the blue for the

47 Sea turtle at Twin Rocks

occasional dogtooth tuna or knowledgeable guide. schooling yellowtail fusiliers. Turtles Divers often see an impressive like the sandy plain below the wall parade of pelagics, including large and there are small corals. Look for rays, whitetips and other shark nice coral-covered bommies a bit to species. The shallower portions of the north halfway into the dive. the reef are festooned with nudibranchs going about their 9) Mapating business surrounded by prolific soft Icons: coral and some hard corals. On the Location: Maricaban’s west point tek side, for qualified deep divers, Depth: 36 - 140 ft. (11 - 42m) the entrance to a massive cave lies below 144 ft. (43m). There may be This is not a sea mount so much large marble rays. This should only as an open ocean rock coming up be done with proper technical prep. to fairly shallow depths just southwest of Sepok Point and wall. 10) Spring Bubbles It is known for strong currents and Icons: has its share of corals at the reeftop Location: SSW of Sepok Wall along with a wall that drops to deep Depth: 10-130 ft. (3-40m) sand and then keeps dropping. This is a site for experienced divers only A fascinating and unusual dive and should not be done without a site, the main feature is... you

48 guessed it... hot springs. They nudibranchs and the occasional big percolate beneath the sea creating frogfish. The sandy area at the wall’s bubbles flowing up to the surface. bottom and toward the north At 33 ft. (10m) at the north end of attracts whitetip sharks and bluespot the site, volcanically heated fresh and marble rays. Because of the water gushes from cracks in the sea unique , floor. The area is covered in unusual the visibility is almost always good. bright green, yellow and pastel- A further bonus is that one can hued soft corals. The hot water prepare lunch while diving. Simply merges into the cooler seawater, place an egg over one of the hot creating a naturally heated water vents. It will be hard-boiled underwater pool. Unlike similar and ready to eat by the time the dive sites around the world, this dive ends. water is pretty hot so “feel the heat” with gloved care. 11) Secret Bay The reeftop slopes down to an Icons: area that promises anything from Location: Caban Island sea anemones to sea snakes at the Depth: 10-100 ft. (3-30m) 40 to 50 ft. (12 to 15m) area. From there you can drop over the edge of This sandy slope also features a a small wall that is home to few hot water vents down deep and attracts a great variety of macro creatures. Boat traffic is light, making this the kind of dive that starts out deep and goes up the slope to the shallows for a nice, long mucky session. Photography conditions are quite nice with the bottom sandy but not too silty. There’s a current that sweeps away fin wash. Sand anemones, halimeda algae and sea pens sprout from the sea floor. There’s a bit of debris here and there and one may find a coconut octopus or seahorse attached. Schooling bigeye jacks Other oddities include fire urchins

49 with Coleman shrimp, blue-ring Muck Diving octopus, fluorescent urchins plus lots of gobies and their bulldozer The term “muck diving” is shrimps. It is a great macro spot that attributed to Papua New Guinea also has some very photogenic dive pioneer . He bobtail shrimp and hiding spotted found that there were unusual, crabs on the sand anemones. exotic and juvenile critters near his wife’s home at Dinah’s Beach at Milne Bay. These odd and unusual creatures make their homes in the volcanic black sand, sediment and even trash that the popular sites seem to have in common. Lucky divers may find colorful nudibranchs, frogfish, blue-ringed octopus, scorpionfish, seahorses and a host of other strange and hard-to-find marine creatures in these habitats. While not as pretty as corals reefs, the muck dives are fascinating and require a sharp eye

Hypselodoris nudibranch and a knowledge of how a fish or invertebrate uses camouflage. Perhaps those that enjoy muck diving the most are the macro 12) Mainit photographers. The normally calm Icons: and shallow water provides Location: Off Cazador Point amazing opportunities to Depth: 16-115 ft. (5-35 m) photograph the creatures and the dives are normally longer, This rocky point is one of the providing plenty of bottom time. better dives for variety and fish life. Anilao is considered one of the Mainit means “hot” in Tagalog and better muck diving regions in the nearby onshore there are hot Philippines. springs. You can bring eggs and boil them here too! There are no springs underwater but there is a good variety of terrain

50 Flamboyant cuttlefish at Elmer’s

along a rocky, boulder-strewn, shallower areas hold much more to ridged and sloped reef. The dive see so one can make a nice long starts in a protected eddy and, dive looking for small stuff like keeping the reef on the right, gets nudibranchs and cowries. There are progressively better as you head also a couple of nearby submerged into the currenty point. There are pinnacles at 70 ft. (21m) that offer a lots of soft and hard corals good vantage point from which to including big clusters of salmon see the passing parade of pelagics. colored tubastreas that have bright yellow polyps that open to feed 13) Twin Rocks when the current is strong. There Icons: are stonefish and lots of lionfish Location: NE of Babalangit Point about as well. Depth: 53-100 ft. (16-30 m) Look also for big, green tree tubastreas, big plate and vase corals A marine sanctuary, this site has and lots of crinoids. There are many even seen Philippine president big, healthy barrel sponges along Gloria Macapagal Arroyo make a the dropoff. Although the rocky, few of her dives here. The site only sloping wall goes quite deep, the allows 20 divers at a time according

51 good new here is divers will have the place to themselves, although it is a very popular site. The fish here are used to being fed so batfish head to divers as they descend. Other fish like damsels and butterflyfish will join the fray. The dive is normally started at the south buoy and divers can feed the fish, look at the corals and check out sea anemones and some well-placed giant clams. There are some tridacna clams near the remains of a wreck and Anthias at the Twin Rocks other wreck remnants sit at 100 ft. (30m) but aren’t much to see. to a sign on the beach and does not Go a bit deeper down the sloping allow training or checkout. So the bottom and there may be a large school of bigeye jacks. Look for

Coastal Anilao Islands

52 hawksbills resting on the bottom purple Chromodoris (Hypselodoris including a large, old male. bullocki) can be found. Toward the end of the dive the There are also some nice plume twins appear in the shallows. They worms, the occasional blue ribbon are just two similar looking rocks eel and lots of anemones split by a small canyon in the throughout the dive including middle but they are smothered in bubble tip anemones with marine life. Pink anthias are spinecheek clownfish. everywhere. Yellow and orange crinoids nestle on balls of the pink 15) Cathedral Rock tubastreas. If there is some current, Icons: the tubastreas open their yellow Location: NE of Babalangit Point polyps giving the twins even more Depth: 53-100 ft. (16-30 m) color. Anemones and all kinds of hard corals cover the rest of the A marine sanctuary, this site is a rocks. The twin rocks are a great popular weekend haunt for Manila place to make colorful images. divers. Nudibranch lovers flock here for macro photography. 14) Elmer’s There are a few other sites around Icons: the country named the same thing, Location: NE of Babalangit Point but this Cathedral Rock site is, Depth: 30-100 ft. (9-30 m) without a doubt, the most famous. It’s actually a flourishing artificial This is a great macro site almost reef developed in 1967 by scuba adjacent to the Twin Rocks Marine enthusiast Dr. Tim Sevilla. This Sanctuary and it is good for nice sea pioneer transplanted the now- anemones, corals and a variety of prodigious live corals onto the nudibranchs including quite a few previously barren twin rocks. At the from the Nembrotha sp. family. Its time this was an act thought to be very good for macro photography. impossible. These rocks are now What’s nice is that this area isn’t teeming with fish awaiting a dived much as its known as a site handout from divers, who for years that “only photographers enjoy”. have been feeding them. This has The reason they like it is that such spurred a few other endeavors. colorful oddities as flamboyant There is a nice in the cuttlefish, pygmy seahorses, Spanish making at the end of Basura 1, for dancers and nudis like the beautiful instance.

53 Octopus in a bottle shard

This is also one of a handful of is plentiful and includes sites in the area that are both nudibranchs, Moorish idols, protected and allow fish feeding. butterflyfish, clownfish hanging This makes getting fish photos pretty around some large anemones, easy. Just don’t throw out too much angelfish, triggerfish, wrasses, food at once or there could be a parrotfish, damsels, puffers, frenzy of damsels, surgeons and surgeons and even, in the shallows, batfish creating havoc. juvenile batfish. At around 48 ft. (14m) there is the small cross from which the site 16) Basura 1 gets its name. The cross was blessed Icons: by Pope John Paul II and placed Location: NE of Babalangit Point here in 1983 by then Gen. Fidel V. Depth: 53-100 ft. (16-30 m) Ramos, who went on to become president of the Philippines. This is one of the more famous It is possible to go deeper than critter dives in Anilao as far as sheer 100 ft. (30m), but there isn’t much variety of strange muck creatures to see below the Cathedral’s area. goes. Some divers say Enjoy the diverse marine life which here is best and they do three dives

54 running into the night and then they This site is a continuation of the rest by day. Others think the site is first dive and extends almost into good any time of the day. Anilao town. The terrain isn’t as Photographer Scott “Gutsy” Tuason sandy. Its scattered with more coral produced a very nice hard cover bommies and holds a different host book called “Anilao” that features a of small fish. It’s known to be a very lot of Basura’s macro critters. good place to find ribbon eels. Basura means “trash” Yellow spiny seahorse in Tagalog and you will see that the prevailing currents seem to carry junk here and leave it. It is quickly converted into habitat by octopi, seahorses, frogfish and scorpionfish. There are also a lot of naturally occurring sand anemones But there are also a lot of rare with clownfish, crabs and shrimp. and unusual nudibranchs including There are also small frogfish, hammerhead nudis. harlequin shrimp, Bobbit worms, Look for striped fantail pipefish in ghost and ornate pipefish, crocodile the urchins, cardinalfish schools, snake eels, commensal shrimp and plumeworms, and plenty of the list goes on. guardian sand gobies with their bulldozer shrimp. There are also 17) Basura 2 many roaming shoals of juvenile Icons: catfish scouring the bottom. This Location: NE of Babalangit Point can be another long and shallow Depth: 53-100 ft. (16-30 m) dive for great macro shots.

55 Donsol/Ticao/Masbate 23

he popular whale shark and Donsol Tmanta ray viewing area around Donsol and Ticao Island is called 20, Luzon Manta Bowl and has become a 21 22 19 destination for those wanting to see Ticao large marine life, big fish schools 18 and even pelagics like marlins and Masbate sailfish in the open sea. Donsol is reached by flying in to southern Luzon via Legaspi. The Masbate in the Bicol region of the “perfect volcano”, imposing Mount Philippines. The Province of Mayon, looms over Legaspi City Masbate comprises three major and the surrounding countryside. islands, Masbate, Ticao and Burias. The airport is out of town so divers There are coastal resorts here as head for the hour ride through the well and Ticao Island is a short ferry surrounding countryside into the ride away. Manta Bowl is quite Province of Sorsogon. Most stay at close to resorts along the eastern the resorts a few miles out of town Ticao coast. along the beach where there are The best time to visit is October also some very good little eateries. to June. After that, the north Make sure you try the Bicol Express. monsoon, “habagat”, blows in and Or, one can fly or take a ferry to makes water rough and creates low Masbate City on the Island of visibility in the bay.

Donsol whale shark art on town wall

56 Mt. Mayon from Donsol area

18) Manta Bowl variety of open water marine life. Icons: Divers bring reef hooks, hook in Location: Ticao Island Channel and wait for the large creatures to Depth: 55 to 80 ft. (17 to 25m) show up. This is a tricky dive, however, and should be done only This is one of the major pelagic with an experienced guide. dive sites in the Philippines and is From Donsol, its about an hour normally current swept and full of a ride in calm seas to the dive area. Much shorter from Ticao dive resorts. There are no moorings and Manta Bowl manta an open water fast descent is required to get down to the reef top. Since the reef is only 55-60 ft. (16- 18m) in many spots, this is done fairly handily. he Manta Bowl Shoal is a Tsubmerged atoll covering around eight hectares. There are five different dive sites here ranging from 55 to 105 ft. (14 to 29m) and all offer the chance to see Mr. Big. Manta Bowl lies in the and . This area is known for plankton-rich water and a

57 consistant current. These traits make imperative you have a good guide the waters of Ticao an alley for to show you where to hook in and other pelagics like big oceanic observe. Also, some of the better mantas, marble rays, tiger sharks, spots are a bit deeper at 80 ft. (24m) great hammerhead sharks, thresher as the reeftop slopes gradually sharks, oceanic whitetips, great down with the current. barracudas and seasonal whale Trips usually start early to take sharks. The strong currents also advantage of morning tide. This bring out the schooling fish and it is incredible show of marine life common to see blackbar barracuda depends on good currents, shoals, schooling bigeye jacks and so don’t shy away because of even beautiful yellowfin tuna. currents. Fish life decreases Stick close to the guide and be significantly at slack tide. weighted enough to be able to After watching the action, avoid being swept away. The top of unhook the reef hook and do an the mount has some scattered open ocean drifting deco stop, corals but most of it is open reef again following the guide and the flat. These coral stations usually safety sausage. Because this is really hold sea anemones with clownfish, out to open sea and it has currents, lots of crinoids and a few other each diver should have a safety small fish like hawkfish. sausage in case he or she gets swept The cleaning stations are not all off and is separated from the group that obvious so it is again or guide.

Anemones on Manta Bowl reef flats

58 19) Bobby’s Wall Icons: Location: South Point of San Miguel Island Depth: 30 -100 ft. (9 - 30m)

long the west side and Athe far point of San Miguel island there is a drift dive along a wall that is fun and full of surprises. This is normally a drift dive with a manageable current running along the steep cliffs. These cliffs are nice to see above the surface as they hold caves and have rugged formations.

Below they also offer Linkia blue starfish exploration as can enter any one of three caves boat dive that can be done on the at about 70 ft. (21m) and look for way back from Manta Bowl or as a inhabitants. second dive after the nearby Inside and along the wall and sea Bobby’s Wall. Both were found by bottom you can find boxer shrimp local guide Bobby Adrao and are a in the cave, banded sea snakes, couple of roughly a dozen dives stonefish, spotted stingrays and found around San Miguel. This many kinds of nudibranchs. features lots of small coral heads, The wall and caves also have table corals and undercuts. nice arrays of soft corals. This site is The bonus is that this seems to be good for macro and wide angle. a area as well and an occasional manta ray is seen 20) Bobby’s Garden around the table corals at 40 ft. Icons: (12m). Look also for eagle rays. Location: SE tip, San Miguel Island The corals hold various anemones Depth: 10 to 60 ft. (3 to 18m) and spinecheek clownfish, spiny puffers, lots of variety in This is a relaxing and shallow 59 Depth: 0 to 30 ft. (0 to 9m)

Pasil Reef is right in front of Ticao Island Resort and is a great third dive and it is generally reserved as a night dive. Look for San Miguel cliffline the usual suspects including sleeping nudibranchs, shrimp, crabs and lots whitetips, mantis shrimps and of other small critters. This can be a marauding crabs looking for a meal. good macro dive and it is shallow enough to allow for looking around 23) San Rafael for small things in the shallows. Icons: Location: Off San Rafael Village 21) Alea Beach Depth: 5 to 30 ft. (1.2 to 9m) Icons: Location: W. San Miguel Island This is a shallow and mucky dive Depth: 0 to 10 ft. (0 to 3m) with just enough current to sweep the silt away, making photography This is a private beach and rewarding despite silty conditions. permission to use the beach can be This is the kind of dive where two is gotten in Donsol. But even if you a crowd as silt gets kicked up easily don’t go ashore, snorkeling from and visibility lessens quickly, so your anchored banca is very nice. divers should spread out to avoid It's a shallow open bay and the making too much of a mess for one bottom has small coral heads, brain another, especially if macro corals and sea feathers. Lots of photography is the goal of the dives. starfish are also found in the area. Among the creatures seen here Look for pufferfish and lizardfish in are hairy frogfish, waspfish, lots of the sea feathers and trumpetfish aggressive little saddleback hiding in the fronds. anemonefish and their anemones, mantis shrimp, nudibranchs, small 22) Pasil Reef red or orange frogfish and lots Icons: more. One can see Mount Mayol Location: Ticao Island Resort from the boat on the ride back. 60 Whale shark feeding at Donsol

Donsol’s Whale Sharks weigh 8 -13 tons. So these aren’t that big at 13-20 ft. (4-6m) and 2 hale sharks are the biggest tons. But they are bigger than Wshark and also the biggest anything else swimming around the fish found in the sea. And Donsol’s bay. Thus, their dark forms can be big claim to fame is that they come seen cruising just under the surface to feed fairly consistently in its in a tasty layer of Donsol Bay’s waters. They are in the highest plankton, small fish and crablets. numbers from mid-February until The spotters have great eyes as the the end of March but they can start sharks rarely break the surface. to appear much earlier and leave in There is an association of whale May when the hagabat winds start shark watching boats and the crews coming in and make the bay murky. are trained in spotting and They may actually start to show up approaching the sharks. Everyone as early as the start of December or must get a license and take a course late November if there have been to see the whale sharks which is no big rains. A couple of years the done at the Department of Tourism. plankton the sharks seek has shown The quick course is on video and is up elsewhere and the sharks have well done. World Wildlife Fund not come, but that is not the norm. guidelines for whale shark The ones that show up are young interaction are generally followed males and not huge by whale shark in Donsol waters. Snorkelers are not standards. Whale sharks reach 60 allowed to touch the fish and ft./18m and average 40 ft./13m and everyone pays a conservation fee. Puerto Galera 33 his very popular diving, holiday Tand nightlife destination offers great diving by day and lots of 32 partying by night. Good local food stands line the beach and fine dining can be found in the hotels. Accommodation is plentiful, 30 31 ranging from simple beach cottages 28, 29 27 to air-conditioned resorts. The 26 shoreline is the home of the famous 24 The Point Bar. Here many dive 25 stories are both created and then greatly embellished. Food and revelry aside, there are dive shops that are very advanced and equipped well for anything from basic instruction all the way up to actually a bigger non-tourist city a advanced technical diving. bit southwest of Sabang. Generally, The northeast tip of beaches and the whole area just gets called bays of Mindoro Island is actually Puerto Galera but the divers mostly referred to commonly as Puerto hang out around Sabang’s beaches Galera. Puerto Galera town is which include Monkey Beach, Big

Puerto Galera

62 La and Small La Laguna. The coastal waters of Puerto Galera were declared a marine sanctuary several decades ago. As a result, the reefs have become amazingly diverse and prolific over the years. Folks who fly into the Philippines usually take a two- hour bus ride from Manila to Batangas followed by a one- hour crossing of the Verde Island PG kids eating ice cream Passage. Puerto Galera is easily out. This area is also a huge accessible. Most resorts and dive technical diving area. This book centers can arrange transfers from deals with just the major sport anywhere in Manila. Boat transfers diving sites but there is an array of to and from Anilao are also deep (150 ft.+ 45m+) sites that are common and take anywhere from regularly done with mixed gas and 40 minutes to two hours depending . Accessible snorkeling is on the type of boat and the just offshore, where marine life currents. Diving is possible at PG abounds even in shallow water. year ‘round. Currents can be quite strong at In the gorgeous coves and bays some of the sites, and unwary divers east of Puerto Galera you’ll find have been swept out to sea on more than 40 excellent dive sites occasion. Always dive with a within 20 minutes of most diving knowledgeable local guide, of services, and more dive sites farther which there is no shortage.

63 Giant clams at Clam City

24) Clam City one doesn’t have to go any farther Icons: than 35 ft. (11m) to see plenty of Location: Puerto Galera Harbor macro life. Most of the clams are Depth: 10 to 80 ft. (3 to 24m) situated near reefs and a few are out in the sand. Since they feed by A fun site for macro that has its photosynthesis, they are in open, own local guard is Clam City. sunny water. Most are in 20 ft. (6m) Located in the channel southeast of or even less so snorkelers can enjoy Sabang, in Muele Bay, many giant them too. Thus, there is a lot of boat tridacna clams have been placed for traffic. So divers need to surface at a snorkelers to see and also to help mooring line or next to your guide’s reseed the area with giant clams. safety sausage. This was done by researchers from In the clam area there are many the University of Manila over a jawfish. Sometimes two even share decade ago. As these can be tasty, a one hole. Look to see if any are guard is posted in an anchored incubating eggs in their mouths. outrigger to ensure no one tries to There are blue linkia starfish with get the clams for dinner. small commensal shrimps, bubble The shallows are interesting and anemones, snake eels, bluespot

64 stingrays and bulldozer shrimp doing their thing as the sentinel goby watches warily. Deeper in the channel look for roaming schools of catfish, seahorses, plumeworm colonies, solar powered slugs, lizardfish and many other unusual critters. Fish life swirls overhead. This whole area is beautiful above the water and has some unique marine life down below. Sites like Coral Gardens, The Hill (which is considered to be the shallower snorkeling area at Clam City) and even the populous White Beach all Snake eel offer venues for sea critter hunts.

beaches northeast of Puerto Galera, 25) Coral Gardens one passes this attractive site on the Icons: way out of the harbor channel near Location: Batangas Channel Long Beach. Depth: 10 to 50 ft. (3 to 15m) It has prolific hard corals and tube and encrusting sponges that grow in If heading by boat to any of the the shallow water here. This is normally an easy dive that is frequently used for training and is also a great snorkeling spot. Staghorn and basket corals are prolific and shell fanciers will appreciate the variety of cowry species, clams, morays, lionfish and the occasional frogfish. Photographers will also like this site as the shallow reef makes it easy to play with light for wide angle scenes. Soft and hard corals make colorful backdrops for fish Sabang Bay and macro work.

65 Snapper school on Alma Jane

26) Alma Jane love having such an easily Icons: reachable ship. Photographers love Location: Off Asia Divers pier it even more, especially for wide Depth: 40 to 100 ft. (12 to 30m) angle work.

Almost directly off the Asia Alma Jane bow Divers’ pier in Sabang Bay is a scuttled shipwreck that is a great fish magnet. It’s the most substantial wreck in the bay and can be dived from shore or the pier but is best done by boat as it is deep. The actual ship is a 60-ton, 115-ft. (33m) steel-hulled cargo ship. It was built in Japan in 1966. It was purposely sunk in March 2003. It landed upright, making it a great wreck to photograph. With a variety of marine life taking up residence in and around the wreck, wreckies and tekkies

66 Hull of a Sabang Awencha

There is usually a buoy aft and Snapper and batfish like the divers can descend all the way to outside of the wreck and a school of the back prop area. The sand is at the yellowtail snapper is usually in about 100 ft. (30m), the deck 80 the bow area. The batfish seem to (24m) and the upper bridge-type follows divers as a curiosity. Do an structure is 55-60 ft. (18m). The open water drift ascent and look for prop has been removed but there is a very large, flowing school of a rudder still intact and spotted batfish. Divers can play with them sweetlips, snappers and batfish like and drift with them as they slowly to hover here. make their way up to a deco stop. Most of the wire and stuff that This is a high boat traffic area. Have could entangle a diver has been a large visible safety sausage and removed, but not all, so be aware. ascend close to the guide. Cardinalfish hide here. The lionfish are always in full attendance as 27) Sabang Wrecks there are large baitfish and fusilier Icons: schools that form thick shoals inside Location: East of Sabang Point and give them plenty of food. Aside Depth: 10 to 130+ft. (3 to 40+m) from the fish, the holds are open and empty and easy to explore. This dive has some reef and wreck

67 Sabang sea grasses

action and can be either a wide leveled due to the years and a angle or a macro dive. This can be a typhoon, but the ship’s ribs are still walk-in from the sea grasses in the present. Crinoids, rope sponges and shallows, but its easiest to grab a anthias are all over this one as well. banca ride out to a buoy that’s Also look for white-eye morays, attached to an anchor and descend frogfish and cuttlefish. to about 70 ft. (21m). Moving on, normally with a Nearby is the stripped out hull of batfish and surgeonfish entourage an old sailboat named “Awencha”. following, there’s another wooden The ship rests on it port side and wreck that was once a Taiwanese may have some macro critters fishing junk. Now the remnants are inside to shoot. Be careful of the home of a good number of scorpionfish that inhabit the wreck. cardinalfish and anthias. This There are lots of cardinalfish inside attracts the beautiful coral groupers as well. Outside, lizardfish, and lots of small damsels. There’s encrusting sponges, soft corals and still and old, encrusted engine, the other invertebrates and clouds of ballast stones can be seen aft and anthias have made the hull home. there’s part of the stern. From here swim south to find the Look for cuttlefish around the tossed remains of a Vietnamese wreck, some butterflyfish and wooden vessel. Its pretty well puffers. Frogfish also conceal

68 themselves well in the aft ribs. 28) West Escarceo Now comes the critter and macro Icons: search. Start heading into the Location: West of Escarceo Point shallow part of the south bay where Depth: 10 to 100 ft. (3 to 30m) sand and sea grasses hold snake eels, stargazers, helmet gurnards, This site is a photographer favorite sea pens with small commensal for its normally calm waters at crabs, ghost pipefish and arrays of reeftop that hold beautiful hard chocolate chip sea stars. brain, boulder and table corals and This productive and interesting lots of small marine creatures. area is only 15-20 ft. (4-6m) deep The dive then goes into a sharp and divers can do a long deco slope that bottoms out at 100 ft. stop/critter search by scrounging (30m). Bring a local guide to point around. This is a high boat traffic out some of the critter haunts and area so make sure to follow a guide also to be able to tell if the current up a safe mooring. The sandy area is changing in any way. down to the Taiwanese wreck One can dive around and return makes for a very interesting night back into the eddy area or elect to dive and then chances of seeing a drift and follow the current which stargazer are pretty good. may go by a couple of sites.

Flying gurnard

69 29) Hole in the Wall along several drop-offs festooned Icons: with hard and soft corals. This Location: Off Escarceo Point brings you to the namesake hole at Depth: 30 to 60 ft. (9 to 18m) around 45 ft. (13m). The hole itself Range: Novice is about 5 ft. (1.5m) wide, which allows a fully equipped diver to The table corals below at this site easily pass through. Be careful not are healthy and they are in to brush the side as it’s covered in consistently clear water. Drop down soft corals and invertebrates. to 30 ft. (9m) and then slowly head The wall falls away, so keep an down the reef. This site off Escarceo eye out into the blue for large Point is renowned for its sometimes pelagics. Local divers have from ferocious currents and riptides, time to time reported seeing whirlpools and eddies. But that also mantas, whale sharks and other big accounts for the healthy coral cover fish here and the nearby Canyons. that flows down this terraced and Head back up around a point at seemingly landscaped layered drop. about 50 ft. (15m) and through a That said, again, take an series of coral heads and sand and experienced guide. finish up for deco at the same pretty This is a popular dive and the table top coral area entry point. “Hole” itself is not that deep but is found under a ridge and can be 30) The Canyons missed if you don’t follow the Icons: guide. You get there by swimming Location: Off Escarceo Point Depth: 25-130 ft. (8-40 m)

An advanced site, The Canyons, has always been one of the popular adrenalin dives. Local knowledge of the currents is imperative here, as you must rely on the prevailing current to sweep you into position on this dive. After racing with the current over several small drop-offs festooned with big, golden gorgonians and past thick schools of The Canyons golden anthias, soft corals and

70 shallow end-of-dive swim-throughs that make great photos. Start by entering at about 15 ft. (5m) and then slowly head down the reef slope. There is an interesting little coral valley that leads to the first wall in about 45 ft. Blue spot ray (13m) of water. This dive has some nice wide angle possibilities but is sponges, you’ll find yourself in an famous for its nudibranch diversity. area with several crevasses (the There are lots of Chromodoris, canyons) that are cleft into the wall. Nembrotha, Glossodoris, These afford some respite from the Hyselodoris, Flabellina and usually raging current. flatworms and lots more. Expect to see large schools of The second wall is about 45 ft. trevallies, snappers, sweetlips, (13m) deep up to 20 (6m) or so. barracuda and sometimes whitetip There are snapper schools and sharks. Lionfish, surgeonfish and yellow damsels, lined angelfish are also often cucumbers and lots of anemones. present. There’s lots going on as the The cliffs fall right into the sea with currents always seem to make the big boulders and swim-throughs. ocean creatures come alive. This upper area has sun rays The usual end point of this dive is beaming through the clear water. a large anchor embedded in the reef. Open ocean deco is the Starfish commensal shrimp norm. Follow a guide, use a safety sausage and look out for boat traffic as it is a main shipping lane.

31) Sinadigan Wall Icons: Location: SW of Escarceo Point Depth: 10-130 ft. (3-40 m)

This is an interesting dive with two walls, a wide variety of marine life from tiny nudibranchs to the occasional pelagic and some

71 32) Washing Machine Icons: Location: Verde Island’s West Tip Depth: 10-50 ft. (3-15m)

Verde Island is a small island across from Puerto Galera between Chromis at Verde Wall the provinces of Batanagas and Mindoro. is a out of the sea off the island’s very busy shipping lane. Bamboo southeast point. Drop in south of covers most of the island. them, then head north. The visibility This dive is located at the island’s is usually excellent. The wall itself northwest tip and is great for big has lots of cracks and crevices to barrel sponges. As the name duck out of the current, but implies, the current here can be remember that it falls away to great pretty wild and mixed-up, putting depths. Most divers remain above the diver through wash and rinse 80 ft. (24m) and there is no good cycle during the course of the dive. reason to descend any deeper. While this site may not be The wall itself is festooned in an everybody’s cup of tea, when the impossible array of colorful corals. current is running at full tilt, the Whitetips and other sharks, Washing Machine is like a crazy occasional mantas, eagle rays, tuna amusement park ride. For those and jacks, rainbow runners, wahoo who would like to slowly explore a and Spanish mackerel are among nicely decorated reef with big the pelagics along with Napoleons, barrel sponges, spiny pufferfish, lots parrotfish, unicornfish, batfish, of colorful crinoids and a bunch of tangs, sweetlips and emperors sea anemones, go at slack tide. throughout. There are clouds of anthias everywhere making the 33) Verde Island Wall whole place move with color. Icons: At the safety stop on top of the Location: SE Point of Verde Island reef, there are some very nice Depth: 15-100 ft. (4-30 m) shallow coral gardens with chromis in thick clouds. Also, the reef This is one of the best dives in the belches occasionally, literally! Look country. The wall itself is easy to for the bubbles of volcanic gases find: Look for the two rocks jutting escaping from cracks in the reef.

72 Batfish school off Alma Jane Southern Leyte Southern ogod Bay is a large bay in the Leyte Sogod Ssouthern part of Leyte Island and Bay an extension of the . It is 34 fully surrounded by the province of 37 Southern Leyte. The municipality of 35 Sogod is located at the head of the 36 bay so the bay has that moniker. For divers, the waters are home to 38 a profusion of beautiful marine life. recently been the focus of As it is a bit off the beaten diver swimming with the biggest of fish as path in the Philippines, the reefs are whale sharks are known to considered to be uncrowded with seasonally frequent the area. spots waiting to be found and The bay has coral gardens, steep explored. It is known for having dropoffs, cascading shelves and some great macro sites with lots of walls, as well as black sand, which rare and unusual invertebrates and is what macro buffs seek for the small fish like tiny pygmy seahorses, prolific macro life. nudibranchs, frogfish and pipefish Local dive resorts are dedicated to to turtles, Napoleon wrasses and marine conservation and have reef sharks. The bay has also sponsored marine protected areas (MPAs) throughout Sogod Bay. The bio-diversity of the marine ecosystem offers visitors an unforgettable and unique experience. Divers will find certified PADI instructors and the knowledgeable Filipino divemasters. Over 25 unspoiled dive sites are now regularly dived. Underwater photographers and videographers are welcomed. For instance, at Sogod Bay Resort, within ten to Ribbon eel thirty minutes of the resort there are over 20 dive sites, including some

74 Juvenile whale shark interesting wide angle spots. from Ubay, Bohol, to Bato and ivers get to this area a couple Hilongos in Leyte. The land transfer Dof ways and there is some from then takes around 45 driving and flying involved. minutes. International flights can arrive at Not all operators take part in the both Manila and Cebu. reef restoration and marine preserve There are a number of ferry services programs. Those who do plant and from Cebu to Leyte. Contact your grow live corals on the reefs. They resort to check the schedule of do this work with the help of the ferries as they can change local marine biologists. Ask as they seasonally and without notice. allow guest divers to help so divers Usually transfers by car from Leyte can give back to Mother Ocean. ferry terminals in Bato, Hilongos, Leyte is a big area and there are Ormoc or Maasin can be made. parks, beaches and waterfalls for From Manila, a number of flights people to visit if not just there for are available to Tacloban, Leyte, diving. Padre Burgos town is the (TAC) pretty much daily. From jump-off point because of its Tacloban to most dive areas by car of dive shops and then takes about three hours. lodging facilities. Check Napantao From Bohol, ferries are available Marine Protected Area sanctuary.

75 The best time to dive Napantao is Table corals mid morning. The colors can be tremendously nice with the right sunlight on the upper reef. There are two walls with the major one shaped like a horseshoe. It has a big and deep crack past 140 ft. (42m) full of sweetlips and spotted groupers. It is normally dived with 34) Napantao MPA the prevailing current and divers Icons: zig-zag up the wall. At the top of Location: Near San Francisco town the wall there is an abundance of Depth: 10-140+ ft. (3-40+m) marine life and hard and soft coral. Look for the occasional whitetip apantao is the oldest marine reef sharks in the limestone caves. Nprotected area in Sogod bay. There’s also a second almost mini- Coral Cay Conservation is based in wall that is also very colorful and the area and as a result, there is not drops down deep. Look for batfish a lot of illegal fishing in the schools and hiding frogfish on this sanctuary. It is said to be one of the wall. Divers can do both walls in top 10 wall dives in South East Asia. one dive if the current is strong. Napantao is a fantastic wall dive Napantao is a must to dive when starting at around 45 ft. (13m) and visiting Sogod Bay. drops down past safe diving limits to 160 ft. (50m). Currents can be a Mandarinfish bit tricky but this is a plus as when currents are strong pelagic fishes are often seen. Tuna, wahoo, devil rays, rainbow runners and midnight snappers all school in the area and can be seen with the fusilier masses in the blue water. The wall is covered with red soft corals gorgonian fans and green Tubastrea sp. tree corals that open their polyps when the currents are strong for a burst of reef color.

76 35) Padre Burgos Pier Icons: Location: Padre Burgos Town Pier Depth: 15-20 ft. (4-5m)

he Padre Burgos Pier Tis a popular night dive in shallow water and local operators bill it as “the ultimate night dive”. Photographers will love it as there are seahorses, frogfish, nudibranchs, eels, octopi, stargazers, razorfish and many types of crabs calling the pier home. Padre Burgos jetty or pier is one of the best night dives in the Chromodoris nudibranch Philippines but day dives can also be bottom. It is a good site for productive. Located in the town of nudibranch lovers as well. A true Padre Burgos, divers can use the muck dive, the pier has its share of pier on Monday, Wednesday and junk and trash but these seem to go Friday nights and by day when not hand-in-hand with the habitat for in use by larger ships. the odd and unusual. Three dive operators in the area Macro is the key here but the dive this site on a regular basis. many pillars under the jetty let light Maximum depth is around 15 to 20 in for wide angle work for the ft. (5m) and visibility is good and creative shooter. They are covered 50-70 ft. (15-22m). Things to see in soft corals and ascidians. The include stargazers by night and the sandy area around the jetty has tiny blue-ringed octopus to flying sand dwellers like stargazers and gurnards scurrying along the snake eels and ubiquitous lionfish.

77 Saddleback anemonefish

to about 100 ft. (30m). There are plenty of barrel sponges, green tree corals and big tables corals as well a number of big gorgonian fans. There is an abundance of marine life along the wall and reef. Black frogfish are often seen perched on the forest green tubastrea coral trees. Divers see macro life like pygmy seahorses and 36) Tangkaan MPA nudibranchs and larger critters like Icons: batfish, turtles and the occasional Location: South of Padre Burgos whale shark. Tankaan is a marine Depth: 10-100 ft. (3-30m) protected area. Nearby Medicare North and angkaan is situated on a South have been sanctuaries for Tpeninsula south of Padre over five years, named from their Burgos. It has both a wall dive and adjacent position to the Padre a angled coral slope. It drops down Burgos medicare facility.

Surfacing to a banca

78 sand around the rocks is a large garden eel colony. Midnight snappers, longnose emperors and unicornfish abound and the hard corals are outstanding.

38) Sunok Icons: Location: S. Padre Burgos Depth: 10-100 ft. (3-27m)

Known locally as Ihotiki, whale sharks are found in Sogod Bay from November to April. Whale sharks annually gather at the southeast tip of Sogod Bay at a place called Sunok in the southern part of the bay. While encounters are never guaranteed, if a diver stays Ornate ghost pipefish for at least a week chances increase of seeing one or more whale sharks. 37) Turtle Rock Sunok is also a fish sanctuary and Icons: dive site an hour ride from Padre Location: South of Padre Burgos Burgos. Sunok Point has a wall Depth: 10-100 ft. (3-27m) similar to a terrace that drops down to 65ft (20m,) then, at the end, falls Turtle rock is a spectacular dive away deeper. One side of the site. Situated on the outside of terrace is a sloping coral reef with Sogod bay on the peninsular of beautiful soft corals, fans and Tankaan. It has four large rock barrel sponges. The currenty other formations starting at 45 ft. (13m) side of the terrace is a nice wall and dropping down to around 130 with huge fans, sea whips, ft. (40m). On the second rock there Napoleons and reef sharks. is a massive Gorgonian fan. In the

79 Romblon 39

xisting in relative isolation from 40, 41, 42, 44 Romblon the rest of Luzon, Romblon E Sibuyan retains much of its Spanish legacy 43 Tablas and its natural attractions are largely unexplored. Some say it is like the Philippines of 20 years ago. Lining the shores of the province’s three major islands – Romblon, Sibuyan, and Tablas – are some of the best, coast of Romblon boast over 30 most unspoiled beaches in this part dive sites that are producing some of the country. Ringed by palm- amazing results for the hardcore fringed white sand, these beaches macro diver looking for such elusive boast a wealth and variety of creatures as the barely discernable marine life offshore. Inland, there green algae shrimp, many rare and are a number of waterfalls and an extremely cryptic nudibranchs like inland salt lake. the tiger butterfly (Cycerce nigra) For divers, Romblon is becoming and various pygmy and sea grass synonymous with macro seahorses. photography and super macro There are five marine sanctuaries photography. The coasts around in the three-island area. There are Alad and Logbon and the west also some beautiful reefs here.

Romblon sunset - photo ©Monika Pirdzuns

80 39) Alad Island and Sanctuary Icons: Location: Alad Island Depth: 18-85 ft. (5-25m)

Alad is an inhabited island close to Romblon Island. On the west coast you find wide fields of soft and leather corals with abundant hydrozoans and colorful sponges. On the east coast there are large table and staghorn corals. Known well is Alad Marine Sanctuary for its high biodiversity and its big barrel sponges. Bobtail shrimp Alad Marine Sanctuary is located in a marine protected area and is known for its vast fields of numerous marine species like soft and leather corals. Near the marble snake eels, sea moths, beach the soft corals gently move in frogfish, dragon shrimp and lots of the surf. There are large barrel Durban shrimp. This dive site is not sponges and hydroids. This special only suitable for scuba diving but coral community is a habitat to also for snorkeling and swimming.

Glassfish at tubastrea tree coral - photo © Jerome Kim

81 many reaching impressive sizes larger than a diver’s length. Look under the corals for snappers and sweetlips and also eels, lobsters and sea turtles. The site Alad South has a more varied terrain. There are stretches of sand and large coral bommies and fields. Various coral species compete and intermingle here making the entire reef structure fascinating. The usual entry point is a sandy plain with a large field of garden eels. Then the coral life takes over. This site has plenty of places for fish to hide and divers

Brown & green Nembrothas should look under the corals. Also found here is the Alad Channel. This drift dive runs Also within the Alad Marine between the two islands Logbon Sanctuary is the Alad Sanctuary and Alad. Here you can see lots of Garden. This large wall is covered coral bommies teeming with marine in soft and leather corals, sponges life. Large shoals of small fish like and hydroids. Divers look for small chromis and anthias give the reef marine life along the wall and find color and action. Look for various nudibranchs, various crabs, frogfish rays here too and also reef whitetip and shrimps. Look into the blue for and blacktip sharks. schooling fusiliers and others fishes. Painted Phyllidia nudibranch Alad North is a site with a huge cover of healthy and large table corals. Spread over a wide sloping plain, these table corals are found in many colors and with

82 Melibe colemani nudibranch photo © Jerome Kim

40) Three P House Reef characterized by sandy areas, sea Icons: grass and big coral bommies Location: Lonos providing excellent habitat. Divers Depth: 10-67 ft. (3-20m) find a great variety of marine species including rare tiger shrimp, round Romblon Island there mandarinfish (best at dusk) and Aare various dive sites: walls, marble shrimp. This site is also cliffs, soft coral spots, muck dive suitable for snorkeling and perfect sites for macro fans, giant for night diving. Photographers gorgonians, marine sanctuaries, prefer macro and super macro here. underwater canyons and much The Three P Resort is named after more. The Three P Holiday & Dive three brothers whose name starts Resort house reef is just that, a with P, but of great interest walk-in dive that offers an amazing worldwide is the Facebook page ID amount of macro subjects. It can be Please! created by Kati Hachenberg, entered directly from the beach and the wife of one of the brothers. Odd then the search for the odd an creatures worldwide are identified unusual begins. This dive site is at this site. Try it! Great responses.

83 Butterfly sea slug photo © Jerome Kim

41) Lunas deadly blue ring octopus and also Icons: mimic octopus. Look on the smaller Location: Barangay Lonos black coral bushes for beautiful Depth: 10-67 ft. (3-20m) sawblade shrimps. At night and even by day one can also see the This is a true muck dive with a humorously named Bobbit worm. sandy-muddy bottom that is one of This is one of the more popular the better critter sites in the country. critter dives in the area and even While it might not look like much, though the sandy bottom seems to trained eyes it is heaven. There endless, it is constantly changing so are lots of rare creatures that macro go with a good macro guide. There and super macro buffs constantly is usually a brisk current that rolls look for. Found here are the over the sand and small reefs here reclusive wunderpus, the beautiful so be weighted properly and flamboyant cuttlefish, small but prepared for a bit of current.

84 42) Magnificat Icons: Location: Barangay Lonos Depth: 10-115 ft. (3-35m)

This dive site is known for large sea fans and beautiful coral reef. While the site may beg for wide angle, divers find pygmy seahorses here. Hippocampus denise and Hippocampus bargibanti are found in the gorgonians that line the Soft corals on wall photo © Jerome Kim walls and outcrops. This is also a great sites for colorful nudibranchs and soft coral formations that thrive in beautiful scorpionfish. For wide the consistent ocean currents that angle, look for coral clusters and feed this site.

Arrowcrab in black coral

85 protected and diverse terrain. Various fish schools like the protection of the corals and look for sea anemones of all kinds and their accompanying anemonefish swimming in their tentacles. Anemone crabs can also be seen as can glass shrimp. Also within the sanctuary are the Agpanabat Caves and Canyons which is a site Spinecheek anemonefish marked by a rugged terrain as 43) Agpanabat Marine Sanctuary the name suggests. The area is a mix Icons: of steep walls, coral laden Location: Off Barangay Agpanabat overhangs, small caves and deep Depth: 18-84 ft. (5-25m) gorges. The coral diversity is quite nice here but a lot of the dive is just his dive spot is characterized by swimming in and out of the Ta series of very large, towering different terrains. coral bommies covered in all sorts Fun to explore and great habitat of marine life. Sandy channels and for fish like snappers, sweetlips, plains mark the bottom between lobsters, the craggy rock formations each coral head so divers can make Agpanabat a unique scuba expect almost anything in this diving experience.

86 44) Logbon Coral Canyon corals and the occasional stand of Icons: whips. Location: Barangay Logbon Expect to see clouds of anthias, Depth: 9-131 ft. (3-40m) schooling fusiliers, possible bigeye jack shoals and more. Sea turtles One of the great things about like this reef and can be found Romblon and the surrounding area resting on the corals. is that there are some sites with For the smaller species, critters varied terrains and diverse marine like ornate ghost pipefish, spindle life. Logbon Coral Canyon is one cowries, coral crabs and other such dive site. crustaceans and a wide variety of As the name might suggest, there colorful and rare nudibranchs can are mountains, valleys and ridges all be seen on dives here. all densely covered in a broad The site also has swim-throughs variety of corals and sponges. This for divers to play with. underwater scape is habitat for many marine creatures both large and small so photogs can choose betwen macro or wide angle set-ups. This is the kind of dive that can be done many times so one dive can be close-up subjects and the next go for the wide ones like grogonian sea fans, clumps of soft Crab on sea pen

87 The Visayas the most famous. It is two miles (four km) of white, powdery fine fter Boracay was named one of sand dotted with resorts, shops, dive Athe best island destinations in shops and restaurants. the world by Travel & Leisure Because the waters off White Magazine in 2013, this area no Beach are calm during Amihan longer is a best-kept secret. season (November to May), tourism It has been a favorite of Europeans is at its peak during these months for decades but now Asia has also when the northeastern winds blow. discovered the various Visayas Conditions reverse during the rainy destinations with their wide range season, when the Habagat or of accommodations, great variety of monsoon winds blow. cuisines and numerous activities There’s a room for every type of and famed beaches. traveler here. Boracay gets tourists Divers fly into and from from different parts of the globe, there branch out to their favorite thus a wide variety of food choices: dive areas looking for thresher Chinese, Indian, American, sharks or rare macro critters or Mexican, French, Italian, Swiss — shipwrecks or all of the above. even Moroccan food! Fresh seafood Some of the best snorkeling sites is a given. in the Philippines are also here. There’s no shortage of activities The iconic photos of Boracay hail for you at this island paradise. from White Beach. There are quite a Boracay has around 25 dive sites few White Beaches in the that cater to all levels of experience. Philippines, but this one is, by far, Training is a big deal here and all sorts of courses can be taken to Morning at Dauin advance skills and certificates. After all the sports, indulge in a luxurious massage right on the beach or at one of the health spas.

88 Boracay 45) Cathedral Cave Icons: Location: West Carabao Island San Jose Depth: 82-130 ft. (25-40m)

This is a favorite that can be a bit of a boat ride to get to this Carabao 46 Island site. The dive features walls 48 47 and caverns and crevices and one large and somewhat deep cave. Boracay This huge cavern starts at 80 ft. (24m) and extends far into the reef 49 50 wall. Its not so deep and dark that 45 training is needed, but bring a good light. The blue hue of 51 the entrance is always in sight. Poke around the walls and cracks Panay to see what’s in there on any given 52 day. Fish swim upside own, orienting themselves to the cave walls. Tubastrea and black corals grow from the ceiling.

Clown triggerfish

89 two separate walls but both begin at 100 ft (30m) and drop down past safe sport diving limits. To see whitetip and blacktip sharks, Blackbar barracuda hammerheads and even an This is the largest but not the only occasional cave or crevice along this wall. whale shark look off the walls into Look for nice coral growth along the blue water. A smorgasbord of the walls and schools of barracuda, pelagics, there are also yellowfin snapper and others in the blue and dogtooth tuna, jacks, wahoo, water off the wall. blackbar barracuda, Spanish mackerel and all of those current 46) Yapak loving blue water fish. Even mantas Icons: have been seen passing by. Location: North of Boracay This is more for experienced divers Depth: 100-130 ft. (30-40 m) only who have had deep diving training and practiced deep dives. Yapak can be an exhilarating deep Punta Bonga also offers good drift dive that is best done on a pelagic action at shallower depths. rising tide. The site provides divers the opportunity to see the larger 47) Punta Bonga 1 & 2 marine life of Boracay. This can be a Icons: very colorful dive as the wall is full Location: North of Friday’s Rock, of Gorgonian sea fans and soft West Boracay corals. The barrel sponges and Depth: 26-130 ft. (8-40 m) clouds of smaller fish are part of the attraction as the current runs past This site is the start of a series of the terrain. The walls are deep and walls which connect to Yapak. There there are actually two different dive is a shallow start to the dropoff. It is sites at Yapak. Yapak 1 and 2 are pocked with holes and crevices that

90 hold moray eels, triggerfish and friendly and come in close. There other reef residents. At the wall are two different dives here. One is bottom, there is sand and marble at Friday’s Rock, a submerged rays like to lay here. mount with lots of fish living in and Punta Bonga 1 is the shallower of around a big coral boulder. Nearby the two dives. Look for a nice, a coral garden rises up (Friday’s healthy selection of hard corals, Reef) into the shallows and can be a swaying soft corals and lots of second dive or part of the first. smaller fish. Plentiful marine life can be found Punta Bonga 2 has similar cover on the rock. But also look at the but is ledgy and cascades down in sandy areas and patch reefs broad steps to deeper water. Look surrounding the rock for abundant for more pelagics here. fish and beautiful invertebrates.

48) Friday’s Rock 49) Crocodile Island Icons: Icons: Location: Off Balabag, W. Boracay Location: Off Boracay’s SE Tip Depth: 23-60 ft. (7-18m) Depth: 16-82 ft. (5-25m)

This is a well-used site for dive This is an uninhabited island that training and for photography as the looks like a big croc. Since the reef fish are fed here so the fish are starts in the shallows, snorkelers

Diver and sea turtle

91 Lionfish love the site for its nice corals and many corals come very close to the variety of fish life. And just over the surface at both sites. wall are gorgonians and lots of This is a beautiful wall dive with colorful anthias. feather stars, sponges and healthy Divers like it for the marine life coral varieties, especially table and the currents attract. Known for its soft corals. Many different types of sea snakes, it is likely there will be nudibranchs can be found here and banded sea snakes on most every this site is great as a dive for macro dive. Reef fish include fusiliers, photographers. Moorish idols, sweetlips, snappers Laurel Island 1 has a special and parrotfish. For macro shooters feature. There is a tunnel about 25 there are nudibranchs including ft. (8m) long that is full of tubastrea some of the Chromodoris family. corals that blossom into bright colors in fast current. Laurel 2 has 50) Laurel Island 1 & 2 similar corals and great fish life. Icons: Location: SE of Crocodile Island 51) Nasog Point Depth: 10-65 ft. (3-20 m) Icons: Location: NW Panay The big attraction here is also the Depth: Surface to 115 ft. (0-35 m) fish life and nice coral growth. This is a good spot for snorkeling as This is a good snorkeling site

92 when the current is not too strong. diver won’t encounter a dog. This is Nasog Point has an interesting usually a drift dive with plenty to bottom composition of massive see when there is current. This boulders and canyons with some relatively small wall has lots of good coral cover, including sea fans caves and crevices to explore, some and soft corals. of them with painted lobsters. This There is better chance of seeing wall is only about 300 ft. (90m) but swim by. Dogtooth it is packed with many caves, tuna, barracuda and even an eagle crevices and holes. Look also for ray may make an appearance. resting sea turtles and lots of rather Nasog Point is a regional favorite colorful soft corals. and Boracay dive centers like to Look into the blue as pelagic fish combine this with nearby Dog Drift. are known to drift into the water column to have a look at divers. 52) Dog Drift The reef is very nice like nearby Icons: Nasog Point, but the fish life here is Location: South of Nasog Point more prolific. Groupers, snapper Depth: 16-100 ft. (5-30m) schools and some batfish are among the residents. The cracks and As the name implies, this is crevices hold moray eels as well. normally done as a drift dive. It is a Lionfish can be seen here too. It's a pleasant drift dive but chances are a slow and easy drift.

Jack school in shallow water

93 Malapascua the island. There are no cars; not even a lot of motorbikes and not a

Dona Marilyn lot of pavement. All the “streets” Wreck and walkways are sand… sometimes very thick, slog-through

54 56 Monad sand. And Long, white sand Shoal 55 beaches adorn a good part of the 57,58 Malapascua 59 island. There are some trendy little Island hotels perched on rocky overlooks and beach bars. Beachfront cabins Kimud abound and guest houses and 53 Shoal boutique hotels can be found hidden inside the maze of

Cebu walkways that make up the heart of Island Malapascua. You do have to get used to having sandy feet. It is just part of the he huge towering palm trees are lifestyle here. The going can be a bit Ta bit scarce on Malapascua slow along the beach walk. And, now. But after a supertyphoon the sand is hot as the sun gets high. flattened the island in 2013, the Always wear at least zoris (flip- island has rebounded nicely, thank you, and is a beehive of diving and Thresher shark carver beach activity. Known as one of the few places on where divers fairly consistently can see the unusual and rare thresher shark at deep cleaning stations along the walls of Monad Shoal, the island has a variety of diving to offer divers including the early morning (usually around 5 a.m. departure) thresher shark dives, some incredible macro diving, shipwrecks, deep and tek dives, dusk mandarinfish spotting and critter-fueled night dives. One has to visit Malapascua to really appreciate the rustic charm of

94 Chocolate Island flops) to keep the hot sand at bay. Location: East of Malapascua However, this inner maze in the Depth: 10 -70 ft. (3-21m) center of all the local and tourist housing, with the less sandy more This may be the most amazing trampled paths, may be most macro site in the Malapascua area interesting after dark with stalls of (and there some other good ones). food, fruits and carved thresher This rocky outcrop is closer to the sharks. Also tucked away are Maya pier than Malapascua. It is a restaurants and small pubs offering long, shallow dive mainly at 40-55 Filipino, seafood and Western/Euro ft. (12 to 16m) looking at small dishes and plenty of cold beer and bommies and coral rubble and the ubiquitous karaoke. Many bars finding a bonanza of nudibranchs, offer some great music and a flatworms and cuttlefish, including relaxing place to tell those tall flamboyant cuttlefish. diving tales. For those who have It seems like every few fin kicks done a successful 5 a.m. thresher here brings something new dive, one can enjoy the late night including some nudis laying eggs life and local people, who are both and mating and cruising the sea friendly and fun. bottom. For nudibranch lovers, this site is especially good with a huge 53) Chocolate Island variety ranging from tiny to quite Icons: large. As the site is shallow enough,

95 are good and full of diversity. The island is a marine reserve and designated as a sea snake sanctuary. There are about five dive sites with varying terrain and marine life. The macro life is Smoothies and local fruit particularly good and this divers should make this a slow and island has a unique novelty feature easy dive and look closely at the in that it has a tunnel that runs rocks, small coral clusters and sea through the entire island. Divers floor to find an array of photogenic can drift along the high rock walls macro prizes. here, explore the undercuts and Even the deco area near the small caves, swim between the island is productive. Leather coral rocks and hide in the lee for cowries can be found as well as leisurely exploration. There are other tiny critters. many options and wide photography may be good for a dive 54) Gato Island while macro is good for all of the Icons: dives. The sandy bottom flattens out Location: 40 mins NW of around 80 ft. (24m) but the dives Malapascua can be done shallower with great Depth: 16-82 ft. (5-25m) success. Its not necessary to go deep to see a lot. ato Island sits off in the Look for the banded sea snakes, Gdistance a little northwest of of course, as well as cuttlefish. The Malapascua and is a popular all day undercuts hold large black coral destination. Two dives are normally trees. In these you will find arrow done here or else one at Gato with crabs, anthias, lionfish and lots of a first deeper one at the Dona other creatures taking refuge in the Marilyn wreck north of Gato. wispy coral. Look for many different Whatever the plan, the dives here

96 cave does get a bit deeper as one goes through it and the blue glimmer of the entrance disappears just before the blue glimmer of the exit appears. You need a guide and a light and its about a five to ten minute swim totally through to the other side of the island. This 100ft (30m) long tunnel houses all the usual cave dwellers like decorator crabs and painted lobsters and usually some large pufferfish. The cave is also home to whitetip sharks which seems to add Soft coral on overhang to the thrill factor. The whitetips like to sit inside or near this exit and rest type of Antipathes sp. around the and let the current run over their island including the beautiful white gills. The sharks will begrudgingly bottle brush black coral. move from resting. There are cat The big novelty dive is the one and bamboo sharks as well as the swim-through that goes completely whitetips. across the island. The cave dive site Macro buffs will like poking normally starts by entering on the along the walls of the island for island’s west side. It is a really long small prizes to see and photograph. tunnel. The shallow part of Time out for massage the dive starts by at Buena Vida Spa swimming between some big boulders that are up shallow. More than a pair of divers can fit side by side in the big entrance. There is also a rope at the tunnel roof. The

97 the current to feed and are really beautiful. It is completely different at slack tide. In the current, the beautiful soft coral really opens up and the reef is more colorful. But the current is strong and it’s a bit of work getting to the habitats of some of the varied small marine life including giant and clown frogfish found in many colors, fire urchins with their commensal crabs or shrimp, nudibranchs and a couple of sea fans with pygmy seahorses. Whether the current is running or

Yellow spotted gobies not, end the dive at the large coral garden. Puffers rest in the huge leather corals and the healthy reef stretches for a nice swim or drift up 55) North Point into the shallows for a deco stop. Icons: You may find yourself drifting at Location: North tip of Malapascua deco here. Follow the guide and the Depth: 18-70 ft. (5-22m) sausage and look for some big jellyfish that sometimes blow into This dive requires roughly a five- the area and have small jacks minute boat ride from Bounty hiding in their tentacles. People can Beach and is an interesting dive site snorkel here as well. with varied terrain and a variety of sea creatures to see. A series of 56) Lapus Pinnacle ridges lead to sandy plains. The Icons: ridges are undercut and covered in Location: East of Malapascua brilliant soft corals. There is also a Depth: 40-80 ft. (12-24m) large boulder near the mooring adorned in brilliant orange soft Small enough to circumnavigate coral and a coral garden of leather in one dive, this current-fed corals that stretches over a wide pinnacle has some mini walls area. covered in beautiful soft corals, As it is at the point, when the tide wire and whip corals and small is changing, the corals open up in fans. The cracks and crevices along 98 Bounty Beach parts of the wall are well worth pair of mating nudis. exploring with clusters of huge This is a great second dive that is catfish inside. One part of the dive not overly deep and best with is shallower with a more sandy, current to make the soft and wire rubbly slope where one can find the corals open up. Currents can get a beautiful flamboyant cuttlefish or a little strong here and the dive usually starts and ends at the anchor line, so conserve accordingly.

57) Bantigue Icons: Location: North tip of Malapascua Depth: 18-65 ft. (5-18m)

This is considered a muck dive locally but is also a good wide angle and fish dive. This fascinating area has a bit of everything stretched across a rolling plain with a mini-wall, tons of anemones, a Mandarinfish sandy slope full of the filamented

99 kind of odd and cool macro critters. This area is normally protected with not much in the way of currents. It is shallow so long dives can be made and you never know what will pop up next. The sand holds an assortment of nudibranchs, guaranteed smashing mantis shrimp in tiny and not-so- tiny holes, comical looking devil scorpionfish, wire coral shrimp, pipefish, decorator crabs and anemone hermit crabs, Pegasus sea Nembrotha nudibranch moths, chocolate chip sea stars and juvenile catfish schools. elegant sand divers and lots more. There are a number of sand Look for sponges and sea fans and anemones with lots of clownfish a small cave that sometimes holds a and shrimp that may try to clean a giant frogfish, lionfish and a mass of curious diver. sweepers. Then swim across a sandy This is also a good place to see a plain to a ridge dotted with some variety of gobies and their bulldozer cotton candy corals, curly wire shrimp. Mimic octopus have also corals and sea fans. The gorgonians been spotted here. This is a place hold pygmy seahorses. for a nice slow and easy dive. End the dive looking at the many sea anemones, cotton candy gorgonians, various nudibranchs and other marine life going up into the shallows.

58) The Sand Patch Icons: Location: North tip of Malapascua Depth: 18-65 ft. (5-19m)

This shallow dive is like a treasure hunt across sandy plains Cuttlefish at Lapus Pinnacle and into sea grasses that hold all 100 Malapascua’s Threshers

he thresher shark cleaning separately. Tstations at Monad Shoal have Thresher sharks grow to a become world famous. First seen by maximum of 12 ft. (3.3m). With Malapascua fishermen, early their long, sweeping tails and pioneer divers worked the shoal to bulbous bodies, threshers are easy find out if they could be seen and it to differentiate from other species. turned out threshers have cleaning Their tails may make up 50 percent stations on the sea mount. By now, of their body. Not generally the behavior has been carefully regarded as a threat to man, divers observed. This is about the only should not get too close as it could place in the world where they interrupt their cleaning behavior appear with any predictability and and they just swim away. scientists have come to study them Threshers, as with other members here on more than one occasion. of the mackerel shark family, give Threshers are a wary shark. Divers birth to live pups, usually between should not get in their way. They are two and four at a time. The sharks not seen schooling here but are have also been observed leaping usually solitary. They sometimes from the sea. They use their tails to circle the cleaning station in twos swim through shoals and stun prey, and threes, but they arrive and leave returning to eat the victims. maneuverability Boats at sunrise at Monad Shoal and a flowing whip of a tail that can snap through a shoal of fish, rendering some fish senseless to be gobbled up by the 59) Monad Shoal returning thresher. Icons: They are also known to leap from Location: East of Malapascua the water… probably to dislodge Depth: 50 -130 ft. (15-40 m) remoras from their silvery bodies. When seen doing these leaps they new series of cleaning stations usually jump three or four times so Ahave been found that afford a grab a camera if you see the first much more predictable chance of jump. It will probably happen a few seeing the amazing hydrodynamic more times. thresher shark appear from the open There is a protocol for diving the sea and glide in to a cleaning sharks. Divers must stay behind station. The ribbon-like tail flowing certain lines placed on the bottom as the shark moves gracefully over so as to not encroach on the the station, striped cleaner cleaning station. Photographers and fly up from the protection of the videographers are not allowed to reef to nip parasites from these use flashes or lights as these may beautiful creatures. These sharks are one of nature’s most impressive creatures with huge eyes for hunting in the depths, broad, paddles of pectoral fins for Thresher shark incredible pelagic

102 Thresher shark getting cleaned at Monad Shoal

disturb the sharks natural cleaning light will be better. rhythm. And divers should stay low Oceanic mantas (Manta alfredi) to the reef, kneeling in the sand to can also be seen at Monad Shoal keep a low profile. Floating in the and the occasional whale shark. water column near the cleaning Manta Point on Monad is the station is a surefire way to drive off favored place to try for the pelagic the somewhat shy threshers. mantas which are noticeably larger Although shy, they can also be than their location-oriented cousins, curious and elusive. So occasionally the Manta alfonso. Nearby Kimud look overhead and even behind as Shoal also has hit and miss sighting one might be swimming by. of scalloped hammerhead schools. Most cleaning stations are at 100 The wall here also has some nice to 110 ft. (27 to 32m) and NITROX large bushes of black corals with is the best way to do an extended hawkfish and lots of anthias in their dive. Thresher veterans say that branches. Up top in the deco area while early morning is the most at 55 ft. (16m) is a rubbly bottom. productive time to see them, they Along the dropoff look for also come later in the morning anemones and clownfish and wire when the light is much better with a coral gobies. In the rubble there are strong overhead sun. By the second nudibranchs and there are signal dive it may be less crowded and the gobies in their hole homes.

103 Malapascua’s Shipwrecks

he combination of attractions at TMalapascua includes reef, dropoffs, pelagics, great muck dives and both modern and World War II wrecks. Most of these war victims can be seen without much difficulty and they have become great artificial reefs, attracting an array of marine life. The Dona Marilyn wreck is one of the more popular wrecks but it is in open sea northwest past Gato Island. Conditions must be fairly solidify a land gun emplacement on calm to dive this wreck. She is a the island. The wreck is mostly in passenger ferry that went down shallow water with remnants of the more than 20 years ago in a hull, which has broken in two. typhoon and is now covered in The Tapilon Wreck freighter hasn’t marine life. The Dona Marilyn is been identified but the wreck at 300+ ft. long (90+m) and held a lot Tapilon was hit by torpedoes and of passengers. The sinking was a sunk in 90 ft. (27m) of water. It’s major disaster and many people lost broken up but its still recognizable their lives. It is now lying on its as a large ship. The resulting starboard side at 105 ft. (31m), scattered wreckage has created amazingly intact. great habitat and the currents feed The corals on the wreck provide a soft corals making it very colorful. nice overswim at about 65 ft. (19m) There is another famous war along the port side. wreck at Malapascua but it’s a Lighthouse Wreck is a shallow technical dive only. The Pioneer WWII Japanese landing craft and is Wreck sits north of the island in one of three known war wrecks in 140 - 170 ft. (42m- 54m) and is in the area and is available for long good shape. A gunboat, the guns dives and for snorkeling. It was sunk are still pointing upward and can be before it could land and went seen on descent. This is deep and in straight down with a load of cement open water and for mixed gas that was destined to be used to tekkies only on calm days. Thorny-back cowfish

105 Mactan and Cebu City dropping off along its length. Mactan is also the jumping-off point for many sites in the Visayas, several of which are less than an hour away 60 by banca boat. Most resorts and Mactan Island dive centers throughout Mactan 61 offer dive training, much of it is PADI oriented. 62 Cebu City, a short taxi ride across either of the two bridges, has no dive sites. But it does have several retail dive centers that supply the t is hard to believe that such a region’s many dive operators and Idensely populated small island their customers. Mactan also has a like Mactan is a dive Mecca, but it small, family-style aquarium. has a huge number of dive centers Cebu’s harbor is a convenient (more than 100 at the last count) boarding point for live-aboard boats that service divers from all over the and to catch fast ferries to outlying world doing everything from having islands like Moalboal, on the relaxed holidays to getting southwest coast of Cebu Island. advanced dive training. Oslob is a small municipality in Both international and domestic the southern tip of Cebu Tan-awan flights land at the Mactan-Cebu village, where the whale shark International Airport. Mactan is a feeding occurs. Divers also embark densely populated island located on the whale shark tours from just a few kilometers from Cebu Dumaguette and Bohol. Island in the Philippines. The island is part of Cebu Province and it is divided into Lapu-Lapu City and the municipality of Cordova. The island is separated from Cebu by the Mactan Channel which is crossed by two bridges. The resorts offer a wide range of accommodations. Somewhat spread out, the resorts are mostly on the island’s eastern side, which has a Flatworm fringing reef with an impressive wall

106 60) Tambuli Fish Feeding Station depths. But this is normally done as Icons: a shallow dive in usually clear Location: Off Tambuli Beach Club water with minimal current. Depth: Surface to 100 ft. (0-30 m) Also, there is an airplane on this site. Tambuli Beach Club anchored ambuli has always been a an old twin-engine Bonanza aircraft Tpopular dive training site. to the sea bottom. It is now home to Tambuli Beach Club is a long- a variety of marine animals and is established dive resort at the quickly being covered by small northeastern end of Mactan. The hard and soft corals and barnacles. site is known not so much for great To permit easy penetration, the coral cover as it is for fish life. doors were removed. It is a high

Banded pipefish

This is a good place for traffic site so listen for the sound of underwater photographers to shoot banca motors before ascending. the willing fish. Tambuli is also known as a great macro diving site 61) Kon Tiki House Reef for close-up work. Divers encounter Icons: nudibranchs, anemone shrimp, tiny Location: Kon Tiki Resort anglerfish and beautiful juvenile Depth: 10-100 ft. (3-30m) angelfish. The reef slopes down gently to the Kon Tiki is a dedicated dive resort lip of a wall which then falls to the that is a pioneer property developed

107 along the coast. The owners have guarded the reef, which starts right off the seawall (there is no beach here). Kon Tiki House Reef is a showpiece of marine conservation and small sanctuaries have Barber pole shrimp popped up in other areas due to the success seen at 62) Marigondon Cave Kon Tiki. Kon Tiki is situated in Icons: between the other sites of Tambuli Location: East of Marigondon to the north and Agus to the south. Depth: 16-115 ft. (5-35m) The top of the reef is covered in coral bommies and it gently slopes Marigondon Cave is one of the to a wall. This wall falls down into most famous dive spots of Cebu, the depths of the Hilutugan strictly for advanced divers only. Channel that separates Mactan from Usually divers drop in well before nearby Olango Island. Thus, these the cave and drift with the current waters are often visited by large to the cave mouth at 90 ft. (27m). pelagics, including occasional The cave entry area stretches from whale sharks. The shallow part of 90 to 130ft. (27 to 39m). There are the reef offers corals and sea lionfish at the mouth and some grasses. There is an artificial reef black corals growing as well as that is a giant iron clam which was encrusting sponges and bottom- sunk by Kon Tiki in the ‘90s. The oriented fish. And the highlight is clam is now totally overgrown with deeper inside there is a school of hard and soft corals. flashlight fish blinking in the Other good diving areas that are darkness. The cave is also known to local marine sanctuaries are have some very large crabs crawling Shangrila Marine Sanctuary, Talima about or hiding in the crags. Marine Sanctuary and Hilutungan NITROX is strongly recommended Marine Sanctuary. The Hilutungan for this dive. Divers must watch Marine Sanctuary is one of the bottom time as it is necessary to oldest in the area, and fish descend several meters to get out of populations have thrived there. the entrance. This is a dive for Talima has a small shipwreck. experienced divers.

108 Lionfish in black coral

109 Moalboal resorts and restaurants are established. Further north on the peninsula is yet another White Beach that is now developing and Copton 63 gaining in popularity. There are Peninsula plenty of accommodations near either beach, although Panagsama has the most bars, restaurants, people and dive shops. Since the resorts in the area cater 64 Panagsama mostly to divers, entertainment is Beach laid back and more of a chilled out pub style atmosphere. is the main tourist activity in Moalboal. The reefs along the west 66 65 67 coast of the Copton Peninsula are oalboal means “bubbling home to a great variety of diverse Mwater,” referring to the area’s marine life. freshwater springs. To get there from Other popular tourist attractions Cebu City cross the mountainous such as waterfalls, caves and spine of Cebu Island by arranging canyons, are found within 12 miles for a private car and driver with the (20k) of Moalboal. Ahead of its destination resort. time, Moalboal was a ragged Since the 1970s, Moalboal has collection of cheap cottages and developed a tourism industry based restaurants... a backpackers’ on recreational diving and beaches. paradise. Times have changed. Panagsama Beach is where most Moalboal is now an internationally recognized center of diving excellence, with high-quality dive centers teaching reasonably priced courses to all levels of divers. Aside Territorial parrotfish from visiting

110 local sites, Moalboal dive centers organize dive safaris to parts of the Visayas, including nearby Apo Island.

63) Copton Point Icons: Location: West Copton Peninsula Depth: 0 to 130 ft. (0-40 m)

This can be two different dives. Copton Deep starts with an airplane wreck that was sunk in 1993 as a dive attraction. The slope changes at 75 ft. (23m) into a beautiful wall covered with sea fans, barrel sponges and soft corals. With lots of Wire coral shrimp fish life it is easy to miss the macro but the site has nudibranchs and transportation savings on to their various shrimp and anemones. customers. The wall stretches quite Copton Shallow might even be a way along the coast. Divers and fishier. Divers start at 15 ft. (4m) and snorkelers may enter from several work their way down to 80 ft. areas between Panagsama and up to (25m). There are many table corals, Bas Diot. soft corals and huge variety of fish This is an excellent dive for like scorpionfish, sweetlips, puffers, beginners and for the divers who titan triggerfish, sea turtles, love small things. It starts at 50 ft. nudibranchs and more. (15m) and slowly ascends to 35 ft. (10m). The chances of seeing an 64) Panagsama Beach (House Reef) immense school of resident sardines Icons: being chased by tuna, jacks or even Location: Off Panagsama Beach thresher sharks is high. Depth: 50 to 35 ft. (15-10m) Photographers and videographers love this action. Morays and The reef is a popular training sometimes sea snakes prowl this ground, and its shore accessibility area, and there are lots of species of allows dive centers to pass the colorful crinoids .

111 65) and snappers, and much more. Icons: There is a magnificent cave that has Location: West of Panagsama Beach a heavenly view of the surface Depth: Surface to 130 ft. (0-40 m) which is why it's called the Cathedral. At midday, shafts of light escador is considered one of dapple the corals and illuminate the Pthe best dive areas in the interior in an ethereal light show. Philippines with a number of sites There is also another smaller cave, around the island. Easily seen from known as Lionfish Cave, and some Moalboal’s Panagsama Beach, dive large boulders. boats head here on a daily basis to At Pescador Island East the dive bring divers to take in the walls, starts at a plateau that turns into a gardens and reefs. Local dive operators have Feather duster worms effectively placed mooring buoys at several locations around the island to protect the reef from anchor damage. It’s possible to swim around the entire island in one dive, but Pescador deserves several dives to slope covered with hard and soft be fully appreciated. corals. Scorpionfish, razorfish, Currents are usually strong, but sweetlips, potato cod, snappers, the visibility is frequently great as a schools of tuna and barracuda all result. Snorkelers can swim over the come in here. The dive ends on a shallower sections of the reef to the plateau with a lot of small marine wall. There is plenty to see, but life as well. This spot is great for a watch out for banca traffic. night dive and night diving at Pescador Island Cathedral has a Pescador, with all of its soft corals, wide coral variety, frogfish, lionfish is a colorful experience that squadrons, barracuda shoals, tuna compares to few other night dives.

112 Twin spot goby

66) Tongo Point 67) Talisay Wall Icons: Icons: Location: South Copton Peninsula Location: Pescador Island Depth: 10-100 ft. (3-30 m) Depth: 10 -100 ft. (3-30m)

ongo Point is a good site year- The dive starts with a slope going Tround, though currents are to 40 ft. (12m) and then it becomes sometimes strong and a flat wall with a deep ledge at 115 unpredictable. The corals are ft. (35m). The wall has vertical exceptional with staghorn forests at canyons with wide deep slopes. The the reeftop and sea fans along the profile of this area is diverse wall. Some healthy soft corals grow changing from slope to wall and here too. The dive starts and ends giving divers plenty to look at and along a deep wall with small caves fish and marine critters plenty of that can be explored all along the habitat. Some caves are deeper than dive. Some parts of the reef are other and a light will help to see exposed during low tide. At dusk, farther inside. Look for gobies in the mandarinfish can be found in the sandy bottoms of the caves. shallows in the staghorn. Razorfish, Divers will also see big stuff in the sea turtles, lots of fusiliers some blue like batfish, mackerel, occasional barracudas are all on barracuda, turtles and yellow this site. The shallows are also home margin triggerfish. The shallows to harlequin ghost pipefish and have mandarinfish (Synchiropus many colors of the ebbing and splendidus) so dives can be made flowing leaf fish. here at dusk to see mating. 113 Dauin/Dumaguette buy beautiful penthouses and use them for their personal getaways Dumaguette while others buy to rent to visitors, 68 using their income properties as 69 their accommodation when diving 70 in Dauin. 71 Dauin No matter what way a diver 72 chooses to go, the dive experience 73 here is bound to be pleasant. Most 74 of the dives here are sandy or rocky 75 bottoms sloping into the deep. Most 76 sites are considered marine 77 preserves and a fee is charged per day for use. This money is supposed 78 to go to the patrolling and care of the preserve. hen divers say they are going As a result, one doesn’t see the Wto Dumaguette they are most big bamboo fish traps across the sea likely referring to a week or two of floor that are retrieved using large diving in Dauin. Only 30-60 belts of rubber that drag across the minutes from the Dumaguette corals. Fish life is plentiful. It seems airport, this is the longtime macro fish, turtles and inverts somehow hotspot rivaling Anilao for the odd, know they are safe in the confines rare and wonderful. While still of these various coastal MPAs and retaining it’s beachy charm, this can been seen contentedly living area is becoming a rather trendy place with a mixture of laid- back hotels and now more upscale dive boutique hotels, condos and residences. Some people Dauin coast

114 Giant frogfish blending with sponges

115 jacks pursuing Cattle for Malatapay market day, Apo Island in background clouds of silvery baitfish or perhaps a small raft of Sargassum weed floats by. These kind of weedy rafts can produce bonanza unmolested around Dauin and of critters like Dumaguette. Marine life is easier to seahorses or the well-camouflaged approach, observe and photograph. Sargassum frogfish. Dauin is also a The dive sites vary and each has a good place to plan a day for bigger certain set of critters to offer divers. marine life. Divers take a day trip to In all there are at least 60 known Oslob for whale sharks and then a dive sites between , stop at Sumilon Island to see reef Dumaguette City, Dauin and Apo sharks and then a stop at Apo Island Island. One site may be known for for a big jack school. There are the elusive mimic octopus while countless possibilities with all of the others may be great for a herd of major dive sites in the area. Or seahorses or for seeing zebra crabs spend an entire day exploring the living in the spines of colorful sea corals, sea turtles and big fish urchins. While much of the terrain schools at Apo Island. may look the same, its marine life is Dumaguette and Dauin sit in the dictated by currents that flow over shadow of the impressive, cloud- the seabed or by rivers and streams shrouded dormant volcano Mt. that may feed various runoff and Talinis. Set aside some time to visit nutrients into the site. the very busy and bustling market For the macrophotography nut, in Malatapay. This barrio becomes this is heaven. Secure a guide with alive with livestock, fruits, produce good knowledge of the local Dauin and lechon starting Wednesday habitat, give him or her a wish list morning and runs all day. and have a blast getting wonderful Dumaguette is the lively capital of photos or checking the odd and the Oriental Negros province on cool off the macro . . It is reliably served But don’t forget to look up and daily by domestic airline flights see what’s happening in the water from Manila and Cebu City. Flights column to see feeding mackerel, take less than an hour.

116 Hairy frogfish

68) Mainit many coral bommies. The dive Icons: ends with something special, an Location: North of Dumaguette underwater hot spring source. Depth: 20-65 ft. (6-1m) Warm water percolates through the sea floor making it a fun way to Mainit is located north of Dauin spend the end of the dive at 15-20 near Dumaguette and it is one of ft. (5m). This can be a nice, long the larger sanctuaries in the area. relaxing dive as it is usually done at The site has a long, sandy slope a depth of 60-65 ft. (18m). with big coral heads all around. There is enough current that it feeds 69) San Miguel Point leather corals and some beautiful Icons: soft coral formations. Location: North Dauin This is a very fishy site, so wide Depth: 15-82 ft. (5-25m) angle photography can be as rewarding as macro. Look for big Sand, sand and more sand! This schools of fish like blackbar site is known as a good macro spot barracudas, striped sweetlips, and there are corals scattered across surgeonfish and yellow snappers. It the sand at this buoyed sanctuary. is usually done as a drift dive all But it is mainly a macro heaven along the slope and around the with seahorses, frogfish, octopus,

117 now an artificial reef consisting of several wrecks, interesting concrete blocks and a steel pyramid. It has attracted many of the usual suspects like lionfish, seahorses, blue- spot stingrays, Frogfish & tunicates snapper schools and juvenile bobtail squid and pygmy cuttlefish. batfish. This is an Most of the diving around the easy walk-in so the site is quite corals and sandy areas is in the 30 suitable for night diving. to 60 foot range. The sand is both deep and shallow. 71) Bonnet’s Corner Take a good guide as the oddities Icons: like devil scorpionfish (Inimicus), Location: North Dauin harlequin and robust ghost pipefish, Depth: 15-100 ft. (4-24m) twin eye goby, double-spot lionfish, flasher scorpionfish, blue ringed Named after the nearby Pura Vida octopus and Spanish dancers (you can often see the egg ribbons) are all found here.

70) Pura Vida House Reef Icons: Location: Pura Vida Beach Depth: 15-80ft. (4-24m)

This site is located just in front of the popular dive resort Pura Vida. Local guides say what used to be an underwater “Sahara” is now a small Juvenile emperor red snapper in fire urchin oasis for marine life. This area is

118 dive center crew member, Bonnet’s creatures. Both blue ring and mototi corner is a dive site only for the are considered quite poisonous. macro enthusiasts. The site consists Other creatures like flamboyant of a broad sand plain. There are cuttlefish, snake eels and frogfish some sparse grasses, small basins can also be found. but no corals to speak of. But the sandy indents in the reef sometimes 72) Banca Wreck hold surprises like hairy frogfish and Icons: juvenile sweetlips. Location: North Dauin The guide will usually move Depth: 15-100 ft. (5-30m) slowly through the shallows here and look for any sign of movement. Two sites sit pretty much side by That’s because this site has some side, the Banca Wreck and the Car very special critters like mimic Wreck, and are great for seeing the octopus, wonderpus, blue-ring many odd and unusual critters that octopus and mototi octopus that this area has to offer. The first is a just peek above the sand floor. They sandy plain leading to a slope. can be very elusive, so move slowly Down the slope at 70 ft. (21m) are and watch carefully to see these the remnants of a large banca boat. special and somewhat dangerous Its starting to fall apart but that

Cardinalfish with eggs

119 doesn’t keep it from being a great snapper. On the banca, look for artificial reef and lots of critters more cleaner shrimp that will come have been attracted to it. The site is out and clean a diver’s teeth if given home to seahorses, ghost pipefish, a chance. Juvenile sweetlips, sea moths and frogfish. The site gets angelfish, mantis shrimp and others the name from a deep remnant can be seen here. Keep and eye out for stonefish and scorpionfish that can be found in the sand and in the Ornate ghost pipefish catches prey old wreck. Make your way back up the slope and you will find thorny seahorses, pygmy cuttlefish, harlequin ghost pipefish, beautiful male elegant sand divers, roaming nudibranchs, juvenile lionfish and lots more. The shallows have sea grasses good for even more small stuff and look out for the possibility of a mimic octopus which has been seen here.

73) The Car Wreck Icons: Location: North Dauin Depth: 15-100 ft. (5-30m) down the sand slope at 100 to 110 The Car Wreck site actually ft. (28m to 30m). Here rests an old adjoins the Banca Wreck. Go down Philippine-made outrigger boat. to 90 ft. (27m) and there are the Although there is not much coral wrecks of two cars that are now life to see, marine diversity is quite encrusted in marine life. Look good. It is an excellent spot for around to see what is living in the macro lovers, photographers, vehicles now. advanced and NITROX divers. In this sandy area, there are robust Nearby is also an artificial reef of ghost pipefish, crabs, sea moths, old tires. There are hingebeak moray eels and other creatures. Two shrimp of all sizes found in this cars are surrounded by concrete cleaning station and schools of pipes and steel boxes. This makes it

120 Open mouthed frogfish a perfect hideout for many This is another one of the small, creatures, especially frogfish and buoyed marine sanctuaries found cardinalfish. along the coast and can be done as This is a good dive to use NITROX a shore dive or by boat. As the small as a diver can then slowly work sanctuaries go, it is actually one of back up the sandy slope catching the bigger ones and divers can split all the macro action on the way. their dives into an exploration of There will be frogfish, flamboyant north and south. But it can be done cuttlefish, pipefish, dwarf lionfishes in one dive. and lots more. A good guide can Divers enter and find a sandy make you feel silly here as they see bottom to about 15 ft. (4m). Then things a normal diver tends to they are greeted by some amazing overlook. hard coral cover that runs across the sanctuary and down past 75 ft. 74) Dauin North and South (24m). Large fields of staghorn coral Icons: hold clouds of sapphire chromis. Location: Poblacion Dauin Big cabbage corals hold refuge for Depth: 15-100 ft. (4-24m) small puffers and the occasional

121 depths here is also interesting to see. Near the sandy area on the north is a pile of used tires that serves now as an artificial reef. Check the mouths of the cardinalfishes for eggs. There are also other juvenile fishes like sweetlips here. There is also some sea grass that holds some interesting small creatures. You may see some razorfish flitting Spiny seahorse gathering around. Because there is not much current present in this area, it is an ideal scorpionfish. site for Open Water divers, refresher Swim around and through the courses and for orientation dives. various formations looking at crinoids, rope sponges and sea 75) Masaplod Norte Sanctuary anemones. These coral formations Icons: are great habitat for smaller fish. Location: North Dauin The variation in coral species by

Sheep leaf nudibranch

122 Harlequin shrimps

Depth: 15-80 ft. (5-24m) coral formations in the shallow area as well as in the deep make it home The Masaplod Marine Sanctuary to schools of small jacks, trevallies, is divided into two sections and sweetlips and snappers. There are those are Masaplod Norte and also triggerfish, big turtles, and Masaplod Sur. They are not groupers. connected and have somewhat Enter on the south and swim different terrain although you may down a coral ridge to 70 ft. (22m) see some of the same inhabitants. or just explore shallower. There’s an The northern section of the open sandy area with interesting sanctuary seems to be synonymous creatures in the shallower sea with bluespotted stingrays. It is also grasses. Scattered coral heads lie home to a good variety of fish. And deeper. Look for such reef dwellers these have become accustomed to as double-ended pipefish, the blue divers and are approachable so they spotted stingrays, yellowtail make great photo subjects. Big snappers and even nudibranchs

123 making their way across the sand. 76) Rock Pile North has another large coral Icons: section that runs down the slope Location: South Dauin and sweetlips, batfish, bluestripe Depth: 15-80 ft. (5-24m) fusiliers and bigeye jacks swoop in. End the dive by swimming up into One of the newer dive sites in the the sea grasses just outside the area takes advantage of the fact that buoys where seahorses and a river empties into this part of the pufferfish are often hiding in the coast and creates a unique blades of grass. environment great for nudibranch hunters and those seeking some nice Longnose rock shrimp macro images. Rockpile also has an artificial reef of small steel pyramids, cars and steel crates and is home to many critters like juvenile clown frogfish, ornate ghost pipefish, seahorses and even harlequin shrimps have been spotted here. The site is also next to a dry riverbed where large boulders and rocks have naturally gathered during heavy runoffs over the years. These form perfect shelter for fish, crabs, eels and urchins. This is a very good spot for nudibranchs like Nembrotha sp.

124 Burrowing crab

crawling along the sea floor and hard coral formations is much more also nudis in the various grasses and dense than Masaplod to the north weeds. There is also a nice and it continues down past 80 ft. assortment of flatworms. (24m) and far into the center of the Check the sand for small sanctuary waters. scorpionfish and burrowing crabs. This dive is fishiest at the south Rock Pile has lots to see. end. Look around between the corals at 60 ft. (18m) where lots of 77) Masaplod Sur Sanctuary schools like snapper, sweetlips, Icons: rabbitfish and others have taken Location: South Dauin residence in the valleys between the Depth: 15-60 ft. (5-18m) coral heads. About three-quarters of the way A bit down the beach from Rock across the sanctuary there is a sand Pile is the Masaplod Sur Marine plain and then some more coral Sanctuary, which is also very fishy cover at the end of the dive. Look and is better known for its nice for mantis shrimps, stargazers and coral variety. Again enter here at the thorny cowfish. Again exit outside south buoy and head down the the sanctuary buoys in the sea sandy slope to 30-40 ft. (9 12m). grasses. It is also a good site for fish Here the coral cover of table and macro photos and not too corals, staghorns and lots of other deep.

125 Mamsa at Mamsa

78) Apo Island tours are organized by some dive Icons: shops to observe the five species of Location: SE tip of Negros Island whales and six different Depth: 10-115 ft. (3-35m) species that have been sighted here. Apo Island is home to the first Apo is one of the big conservation community-run marine sanctuary. success stories in the Philippines. It Small resorts are based on the has been a well cared for marine island and daily visitors come to sanctuary since 1982 when the dive and snorkel. There are nine residents made a wise decision to buoyed sites and a snorkel preserve. care for their resources. The result The island has some very has been good for the economy and impressive rock formations good for the Philippines. scattered out into the sea from its Apo is a volcanic island that juts 72 hectares, fine white sand out of the endless blue depths of the beaches and coves, some high Tanon Strait trench. The channel cliffs, a lighthouse and diverse reefs. between Dauin and the island is There are at least 650 documented also an important migratory route fish species and 400 kinds of corals. for dolphins and pygmy sperm Although it did suffer some recent whales. In season, marine mammal typhoon damage, the reefs are on

126 Hawksbill sea turtle the rebound and the reef life is is protected most of the time. Sea robust. Chapel Point, for instance, turtles love it here and there are big has a small wall that starts shallow elephant ear blue sponges. Rock going down to 80 ft. (25m). Along Point West leads to a point atop a the wall are nudibranchs, leaf fish, flat plain that sometimes attracts frogfish and ribbon eels. There is a manta rays when there is current. small silvery baitfish-filled cave at Rock Point East is situated at the 60 ft. (18m). A beautiful coral island’s eastern end with a large reef garden can be found at the shallow up top and a wall. Very fishy. The plateau on top of the wall. list goes on. Also make sure to go Then you go around the island to ashore here. The people are Mamsa and the diversity, fish life charming and the little village and terrain are completely different, quaint and clean. Bring a lunch to more like that seen on Malapascua. eat on the beach. Divers aren’t allowed to wear gloves here. The island has some no fishing areas. It also has a couple of no diving areas. Conservation rules are enforced and there’s a fee, usually covered through the dive shop, to use sanctuary reefs. Katipanan Point is generally Baitfish at Chapel Point blessed with just light currents and

127 Bohol shaped and surrounded by 72 smaller islands, the largest of which Chocolate Hills of Bohol is the Panglao Island facing Taglibaran City in the southwest. Most of the people speak the native dialect Boholano. Cebuano, Tagalog and English are also widely spoken and understood. Numerous waterfalls and caves are scattered across the island of Bohol, including the beautiful Mag- Aso Falls in Antequera. The water is cool and often creates a mist in humid mornings which can hide the falls. Bohol is also known for the Philippine tarsier (Tarsius syrichta), ohol may be best known as the the smallest known living primate Bhome of the Chocolate Hills. dating back 45 million years. This island treasure is a series of Alona Beach is on Panglao. This undulating hills over a vast plain centerpiece of the island is a one sometimes considered an “Eighth mile (1.5km) stretch of glittering Wonder of the World”. Bohol has at white sand. Divers flock here but least 1,268 perfectly cone-shaped, also to Balicasag, Cabilao, simially-sized hills scattered newcomer Anda and other costal throughout the municipalities of retreats for some great diving Carmen, Batuan and Sagbayan. experiences. Alona Beach is a They are covered in green grass, jumping-off point for dive safaris which turns to brown during dry throughout the Visayas. Visitors season, making them look like arrive through Taglibaran City. chocolate mounds. But for divers this lovely island of Crinoid shrimp Bohol is another well-kept secret. A home to proud and independent people, Boholanos take care of the many natural wonders of their land and also those undersesa. Bohol is the tenth largest island in the country. Mainland Bohol is oval-

128 Anda Dive resorts and retreats are situated along the coast where limestone cliffs, separated by sandy beaches and some scattered rock islands, cater to divers in a quiet and natural surrounding. 79 Boutique resorts like Amun Ini are 80 84 dedicated dive resorts that 83 specialize in finding macro 81 82 creatures and the guides even know 85 86 the names of these odd and unusual marine critters by their Latin names. he Anda area is a relative Thus, they are popular with all Tnewcomer to the diving scene levels of diver and also with but is being developed with tourism photographers and videographers. and conservation in mind. Getting For miles along the shore, shallow to Anda from Taglibaran is a reef flats are covered in beautiful pleasant oceanside ride along the corals that extend to dropoffs that southern coast where fruit stands end in sandy slopes that extend into line the road and rice paddies the depths. The upper reef ranges flourish. Or a trip through the from scattered coral heads with soft Chocolate Hills can also be made and hard corals and lots of sandy to get a glimpse of this Bohol patches to some sites that have famous natural attraction. every inch covered in thick coral

Amun Ini beach

129 Sargassum frogfish

patches of healthy leather corals zebra crabs. and many soft corals. This area has only been The limestone walls present some thoroughly explored in the last half- canyons, cracks and crevices and decade and it seems every macro even small caves. These walls and critter on a diver’s bucket list can be overhangs hold plenty of sponges, found here. There is truly amazing large soft coral trees and gorgonian diversity for those wanting to see sea fans. small reef life. Then below these varied dropoffs Go to the points where there are are sandy flats ranging from areas currents to find schooling fish. with various coral heads and Fusiliers, striped snappers, cleaning stations to deeper sites occasional grouper, big puffers and with huge black coral gorgonian the odd turtle may all swim by. The bushes. Divers can see hawkfish in points that have current can have the big black corals and the odd very good action. Many dives are sawblade shrimp in small black circular back to the anchorage with corals. The beautiful Coleman nice deco stops at reef top. Drift shrimp pairs live in fire urchins and dives are also done. The area is still so do the wonderfully patterened largely undeveloped and quiet.

130 that stretches as wide as 100 ft. (30m). With the wall to a diver’s back, it gives a dramatic and panoramic view of the open water. In the open water, look for barracuda and the odd reef shark.The wall has nice coral growth and has lots of marine life including leopard sea anemones.

80) Wonder Wall Icons: Location: South Dauin Depth: 15-90ft (5-27m)

Pregnant pygmy seahorse The main attraction of Wonder Wall is a small wreck and a ts location in the northern corner freshwater source at 90 ft. (27m) at Iof the Coral Triangle puts Bohol in the bottom of steep wall. The site one of the highest marine has some natural grottoes deep biodiversity hot spots in the world. along the wall. While the urge is to In layman’s terms, a diver’s go down and see the small paradise. shipwreck, a shallower dive exploring the wall makes for a 79) Panorama much more interesting dive. Icons: Also, there is a sandy valley with Location: SW Anda Peninsula coral heads and even fluorescent Depth: 20-100ft (6-30m) mushroom corals. Look for ornate ghost pipefish in the crinoids. This Bohol dive site is especially appealing for Commensal shrimp advanced divers but can be enjoyed by all. Located along a wall at western Anda’s peninsula, Panorama is specially protected and has only been open for diving since 2001. It is named because of its steep wall

131 Mating Nembrotha cristata

81) The Caverns Icons: Icons: Location: South Dauin Location: South Dauin Depth: 12-70ft. (3-21m) Depth: 15-100ft. (4-30m) Coco White South is a relatively dive site in Bohol within a simple dive site in Bohol with a Ashort boat ride of most dive steep wall suitable for any diver. centers, the Caverns is a simple dive Lots of sponge growth can be found site that nevertheless boasts of a here and it is good for nudibranchs stunning variety of fish, many as well. Look for skeleton shrimp natural underwater grottoes, a steep too. Aside from nudis including the wall…plus a chance to encounter graceful Spanish dancers, there are “Bruno”, a resident giant octopus! also shells and lots of blennies and gobies. Occasionally a barracuda 82) Coco White South & North school will also swim by.

132 Barrel sponge hairy squat lobster

Coco White North has similar 84) Dap Dap features with good sea fan and Icons: sponge growth, schooling fish and a Location: South Dauin good chance of finding unusual Depth: 15-60ft. (4-18m) nudibranchs and shrimps. This is a relatively shallow boat 83) Snapper’s Cave dive and is a great way to spend a Icons: second dive as a long time can be Location: South Dauin Depth: 15-90ft. (4-27m) Bohol coast and corals

This is a very well-adorned and steep wall starting shallow and going down to 100 ft. (30m) There is a large gorgonian tree and a wide cave entrance at 90 ft. (27m). This is a good preparatory dive for Neptune House, as it is normally not as currenty. The dive connects to dive site Paradise Garden. Experienced divers with a proper light can enter the cave. There are snapper schools along the wall. The reeftop here is very lush with leather and hard corals.

133 Blue-ring octopus

taken looking around the reef. minutes) to get to the reef. But the It’s also a great site for beginning site is a good spot for all kinds of divers or even as an intro dive for creatures including sea turtles, total newbies trying out diving schools of fusiliers and snappers during their vacation. There’s so and nice coral growth. The fish much to see at Dap Dap, including come to Birhen East because it has the occasional shoals of barracuda, some currents but not usually a good collection of colorful anything too stiff. Birhen West nudibranchs, sea spiders hiding in features steep underwater walls black coral trees and marauding, filled with vibrant corals. This is crunching schools of big bumphead another one of the sites that has a parrotfish. The corals are both hard lot of fish due to good current flow. and soft with nice leather corals Occasionally, a lucky boat of and their flowing tentacles. divers will happen onto a floating mass of Sargassum weed. These 85) Birhen E. & W. House Reef thick carpets hold all kind of sea Icons: creatures from a special kind of Location: Amun Ini Resort frogfish that is well-camouflaged Depth: 15-100ft. (4-30m) with this weed, seahorses and cryptic nudibranchs. It is possible These are the sites in front of the April through June or whenever the Amun Ini dive shop and they are a prevailing currents decide to bring very short boat ride (like two this floating mass in close to shore.

134 a bit north of the town. The average depth is fairly deep at 82 ft. (25m) or so. This dive has coral walls and reefs and is done as a drift, so divers must keep and eye on current strength and look for up and down currents. It is great for the numerous pygmy seahorses that can be found on the various sea fans. This site also has a special feature that is for advanced divers and guides usually only let experienced diver try this. At 105 ft. (31m) there is an entrance into a cave. Having a light source is obligatory to go inside. The wall Anemonefish guarding eggs here isn’t so pretty but divers are usually allowed a maximum of 8-10 minutes inside the cave to explore. 86) Neptune House Look for lobsters, schools of fish Icons: and bluespot stingrays! Location: N. of Anda Town After that head back up the wall Depth: 82-118ft. (25-35m) to look for more small stuff like the various pygmies and anemones. This is a high quality drift dive along Nudibranchs also like to crawl the eastern part of Anda's reef quite along this wall.

Black coral shrimp

135 Cabilao easily walked. People are friendly and the island has a charm that 89 90 endears repeat divers. The lack of 88 91 roads also means that everything on the island has to be brought in by 87 Cabilao banca including building materials, Island 92 wood, food (except fish caught locally), and, during periods of drought, fresh water for drinking and bathing. 93 The triangular shaped 2.8 sq. miles (7.2 sq. km.) island sits at the his small limestone isle is a west side of Bohol, facing Cebu Trelaxed place with five nice Island. Cabilao has about 5200 villages, a nice range of beachfront friendly inhabitants who survive on hotels and good dive operations. It fishing, tourism, some small is so chill here that there are no agriculture and weaving of bags. cars. The only motorized transport is The island is the home to Bohol’s in the form of a few tricycles and a only natural lake, Lake Lanao, near couple of motorcycles, which also the barangay Pantudlan, which also serve as so-called ‘habal-habal’. serves as a small bird-sanctuary for Most of the distances on Cabilao passing migrant birds. island are quite short and can be Divers love this place as it has a

Cabilao beach

136 great variety of diving with 20 sites all around its shores as well as a couple of nearby sites on other islands. It is for all ranges of diver with most sites offering easy step diving starting deep and having interesting terrain all the way up to the shallows. here are nice, current-fed Tpoints with batfish, barracuda and surgeonfish schools. Large and small sea turtles are also seen. It was once a place to see scalloped hammerheads but they were fished out a couple of decades ago and Bubble coral shrimp have not returned... a sad reminder of the need to sustain the ocean’s displays along the walls a well as resources. But, there are some large gorgonian sea fans that have absolutely stunning soft coral both H. denise and H. bargibanti pygmy seahorses and very large Anthias fish and corals Muricella sp. sea fans. The macro is surprisingly good for white sand outer reef slopes. The reefs and sandy plains hold frogfish, harlequin ghost pipefish, sea moths, a very nice variety of nudibranchs and orangutan crabs and soft coral shrimps. Some sites, like Lighthouse 1 & 2, are very good for wide angle, video and macro and are good for repetitive diving. Some resorts also have spas and offer a nice massage after a diving day with shiatsu, Swedish or harmony massages or a hand and foot reflexology treatment. Great way to end a dive day.

137 Soft corals at Lighthouse

87) Gorgonian Wall 88) Lighthouse 2 Icons: Icons: Location: NW Cabilao Location: NW Cabilao Depth: 18-140ft. (5-42m) Depth: 15-65ft. (4-20m)

This beautiful wall runs the length This site is on a very nice slope of a football field out from shore. It with sandy bottom, which is starts at 18 ft. (5m) and goes down partially overgrown with sea grass to the depths past sport diving and individual coral formations. It limits. This is a rich wall that is gently declines from shore to the completely covered with different wall to a depth of approximately 65 kinds of corals, giant Gorgonian sp. ft. (19m). It is also home to a great sea fans and sponges. It also has variety of species like devilfish, leaf great topography with many small fish, robust and harlequin ghost caves and overhangs. All along the pipefish, sleepy little sea moths, wall is plenty of hard and soft coral, stonefish, moray eels, sea kraits, the fish, rare nudibranchs, frogfish and beautiful harlequin shrimp, mantis pygmy seahorses. shrimps and an extraordinary Also, this is the sign of a healthy variety of nudibranchs. To add to reef, occasional mature Napoleon that, occasionally eagle rays will wrasses cruise by. For nice light this also swim by. This is also a good one is especially recommended for spot for large sea turtles. And back afternoon dives. in the macro category, divers also

138 of shrimp and crabs and the fascinating “disco” file shell are all regularly sighted. This very productive site, which also has some big elephant ear sponges, is a great night dive spot as well.

90) Fallen Tree Icons: Location: W Cabilao Depth: 15-140 ft. (4-40m)

Yep, there’s a fallen tree on the shore here. This dive is along a Guide points out gradual slope from the shore to 55 hairy squat lobster ft. (16m) and then a steep wall which slopes down deep. There can find both blue-ring and mimic be a gentle current feeding the soft octopi and two different kinds of corals and that makes this a great pygmy seahorses. drift dive. Off the wall and into the blue look for schools of large 89) Lighthouse 1 blackbar barracuda or cruising sea Icons: turtles. All along the site, frogfish Location: NW Cabilao and nudibranchs are to be found Depth: 15-80 ft. (4-25m)

Next to Current View Point Red frogfish is a slope covered with sea grass and corals going down to 70 ft. (21m). This is an excellent site for underwater photographers as it has a great variety of rare marine life. Several kinds of scorpionfish, different ghost pipefish, pegasus, stargazers, crocodile snake-eels, sea snakes, many different kinds

139 and pegasus sea moths are seen on that like to blend into the rope and the slope. At the end of the dive, in encrusting sponges. It is also home the shallows, are the beautiful for pegasus sea moths, devil pyjama cardinalfish and other scorpionfish and various colorful fish in the hard corals. Look nudibranchs. There are also soft and for the cardinalfish to be incubating hard corals along the steep slope eggs in their mouths. area. Look for undulating ribbon eels, juvenile batfish and more 91) Pangangan Wall nudibranchs. Occasionally, a few Icons: whitetip reef sharks and eagle rays Location: Pangangan Island also pass by. As there is a lot to see Depth: 10-60ft. (3-18m) in shallow water. This is a great third dive where one can take This is a short boat ride across the plenty of time to look around. channel to the island of Pangangan. It is a white sand muck diving area 92) Cambaquiz in the shallows and also along a Icons: sloping wall of crevices and sand Location: Pura Vida Cabilao beach patches. Lots of small stuff like this Depth: 20-100ft. (5-30m) site including various harlequin and robust ghost pipefish and frogfish This wall at the northeastern tip just

Gorgonian sea whips

140 occasional wonderpus and many different crabs and shrimps.

93) South Point Icons: Location: N. of Anda Town Depth: 30-140ft. (9-42m)

This is an excellent wall with overhangs and caves and very lush coral growth. The wall drops past safe sport diving depths into the blue abyss. The dive site is located at a “corner” where some currents occur. It has spectacular formations of old growth hard corals at shallow Spindle cowrie depths that have been growing here undisturbed for centuries. One can see the competition for space and in front of Pura Vida Cabilao Resort light here. The dive is also home to and Spa dive center and goes from an abundance of fish. Along the reef 35 ft. (10m) down to very deep. In schools of mackerel and many other some of the many caves there are fish patrol. Down about 70 ft. (21m) baby whitetip sharks and at 100 ft. some small caves hold resting (30m), there is a large cave that whitetip reef sharks. divers can enter. A light is needed to see the inner walls Elephant ear sponges properly. A gentle slope on the east side of the wall is rich with reef fish and quite often has turtles. There is also great night diving in the area with stargazers,

141 Balicasag the guide. Balicasag’s marine sanctuary status has helped it to flourish. Despite the volume of 94 divers, neither marine life species nor coral growth has diminished. It has pretty blue waters with sandy Balicasag flats running to deep drop-offs. 95

94) Black Forest Icons: Location: East side of Balicasag Depth: 15-130 ft. (4-40m) his marine protected area is Tpopular with every dive The site is named for large black operator in the area. Day boats coral stands but best part of the dive galore show up from Panglao and is not deep but in the shallows also Cabilao and even Dauin. There where turtle grass grows. This area is a dive operator and hotel on the is a sea turtle meeting, breeding island too. And little bancas selling and feeding area. It has large tracts trinkets and jewelry zip from dive of sandy grasses and clear waters. boat to boat. This is a busy place so Many turtles from young to very old always use a safety sausage and can be found feeding on the surface with care or go up close to shallow sea grasses so the dive can

Scenic Balicasag

142 Green sea turtle

be long and relaxed at 20-45 ft. (6- 95) Diver’s Heaven 13m), although many divers go Icons: down to the currenty depths to see Location: NE side of Balicasag the black corals and the large fish Depth: 15-130 ft. (4-40m). there. Expect to see frogfish, large groupers, large snappers and other This is an amazing dropoff with big reef fish not seen commonly in underhangs, cuts and crevasses. some of the other destinations. There are lots of small fish like Watch for mating action with the anthias and fusiliers along the wall. sea turtles. Some are used to divers The site is also known for its large and can be slowly approached. bigeye trevally tornado. Barracuda schools are also sometimes Playing green sea turtles seen. The upper reef shallows is very rich hard corals with lots of chromis and anthias. It is very pretty. And there’s the occasional sea turtle that swims by. The island also gets visits from whale sharks so divers should keep an eye out into the blue. Every site on the island is a good dive.

143 Panglao dive shops, the beach is a hangout for divers and snorkelers but can have quite a bit of boat traffic so a Bohol safer option might be to take a trip 96 to a less active dive or snorkel site rather than always be on the

97, 98 Panglao lookout for boats off Alona. There are a variety of great 100 restaurants right on the beach. Pizza joints, Swiss, Italian, Thai and 99 Filipino dishes are all available. Although there are a lot of divers anglao Island is a favorite haunt and dive shops, Alona Beach is not Pof divers and has a number of generally known for crazy nightlife. dive sites around it. It is also a It can be a quiet, romantic place at jumping off point for dive safaris, night. Restaurants set up candle-lit trips to Balicasag, Cabilao, tables on the beach and couples Pamilacan and Maolboal, dolphin and groups gather to eat good food watching tours, trips to the and listen to live acoustic music Chocolate Hills and a number of right on the beach. other activities. Divers going to Alona Beach, can Alona Beach is the hotspot here. arrange pick up at the Somewhat crowded with hotels and airport or pier.

Heading to Balicasag past Panglao

144 moray eels, Moorish idols, giant frogfish and anthias. The reeftop runs a fair distance and is quite shallow and excellent for snorkeling. Find razorfish, damselfish, butterflyfish, parrotfish and a large shoal of anthias. The wall and overhangs are quite impressive, covered with a good selection of hydroids, gorgonians, sponges and crinoids and lots of soft and tubastrea corals.

97) Doljo Sanctuary Icons: Soft corals Location: NW Panglao Island Depth: 18-130 ft. (5-39m) 96) Napaling Icons: This dive spot at Doljo Beach is a Location: NW Panglao Island marine sanctuary. The reef top starts Depth: 10-65 ft. (3-19m)

Denise pygmy seahorse This is shallower dive with lots going on and some great places to snorkel. It is around to the north side of Panglao maybe an hour boat ride from popular accommodations at Alona Beach. Because of the frequent current, Napaling is often dived as a drift dive. The reeftop is at around 10 ft. (3m). A vertical wall stretches down deep with many holes, crevasses, overhangs and caves. Look out for juvenile barracudas, bannerfish,

145 at around 10 ft. (3m) and slopes a combination vertical wall and down to a wall at 40 ft. (12m), with steep slope starting at 25 ft. and many table corals on it. down to the depths. The vertical wall goes down to Giant sea fans, leather corals, past 130 ft. (40m). Many crevasses, elephant ear sponges and barrel black corals and whip corals can be sponges decorate the steep slope. seen along this wall. Keep an eye Look out for giant frogfish that like out for colorful cardinalfish to sit in the green leather coral. including pyjama cardinalfish that There are also many angelfish and like to hover over the reeftop table butterflyfish. corals. There are also a lot of sea This is a good site to keep looking anemones with a variety of into the blue as big pelagics like anemonefish like spinecheeks and Spanish mackerel, barracudas and one-stripe anemonefish. eagle rays all swim by.

98) Doljo Point 99) Gak Ang Icons: Icons: Location: NW Panglao Island Location: West of Panglao Island Depth: 18-130 ft. (5-39 m) Depth: 18-80 ft. (5-24m)

Doljo point is about 40 minutes Gak Ang sits off southwestern away from Alona Beach by boat. Panglao and is a great dive for The reeftop starts at 18 ft. (5m), with macro shooters and wide angle

Soft coral on dropoff

146 buffs as well. The vertical wall reaches about 80 ft. (24m) and starts at 18 ft. (5m). Divers will see an abundance of beautiful soft corals and sea fans along this pleasant wall. There are giant frogfish, tiny clown frogfish, bannerfish schools and a lot of other macro life.

100) Tawala Sanctuary Icons: Location: East Panglao Island Depth: 18-70 ft. (5-22m)

The relatively new Tawala sanctuary has a varied reef formation with short wall Table corals sections starting in shallow water. There are also some beautiful terraces which have lots of corals and nice fish life. Robust ghost pipefish This is often used for newer divers as it is not a deep site and there is plenty to see. Look for lots of schools of fish including the feeding mackerels, large yellowtail barracudas and ubiquitous surgeonfish. Schooling bigeye jacks also come by in large schools. The site also has a nice selection of macro critters like nudibranchs, shrimp and crabs. Sea anemones are also well-represented at the sanctuary. Make this a nice slow and easy dive to take in the diverse marine life.

147 Camiguin/ interesting above and below water natural formations. In the late 101 103 1800s, for example, the eruption of 102 Mt. Vulcan submerged the old town 104 105 Camiguin of Catarman, pushing it below the sea, leaving behind the ruins of a church and its bell tower. The Sunken Cemetery dive site, now marked with a huge cross, was also one of the areas in this old town. The isle has over 20 sites. Popular White Island, a sandbar, amiguin is charming and small and Island, a smaller Cin both area and population. It island off the shores of Camiguin, is just 14 miles (23 km) at its are great for swimming, snorkeling, longest and just a bit more than 8.5 and diving. Cool, refreshing waters miles (14 km) at its widest. And amid trees, ferns and boulders can within this small area lie an be found at waterfalls like amazing seven volcanoes. Lovely Katibawasan Falls or the more little Camiguin is the island “born remote Tuawasan Falls. Just as of fire.” As much of the island was refreshing is a dip in the Santo Niño formed through earthquakes and Cold Spring. It offers waters at volcanic eruptions, it has some 68F/20C and small fishes

Diver and green sea turtle

148 Jack school

that will give you a unique divers often visit Camiguin on dive massage! In contrast, there’s Ardent safaris coming from Alona Beach, Hot Springs’ 104F/40C waters which isn’t far away. Domestic heated by Mt. Hibok-Hibok, still an flights come in to Camiguin’s quaint active volcano. airport. Many modest family, dive Located off the coast of the and eco resorts dot the island. Misamis Oriental province in , it is technically 101) Agutaya Reef a part of Mindanao. But Bohol Icons: Location: Off White Island Depth: 16-130 ft. (5-40m)

Hibok-Hibok Volcano towers over this idyllic sandy cay that is a great place for snorkelers and divers alike. The large, shallow Agutaya Reef has some healthy corals and lots of small reef fish darting around, and some larger specimens are holed up in the

Saddleback anemonefish nooks and crannies of the corals. The eastern portion of the reef

149 drops away and divers can have a Descending to around 100 ft. leisurely and fairly shallow dive (28m), Paradise Canyon’s walls are going along the reeftop and see decorated with plenty of cracks and nudibranchs, anemones, angelfish, holes, home to a wide variety of triggerfish and an occasional big marine life. Take a as grouper. Or a deeper dive can be there is a cavern that divers can done looking in the cracks, caverns enter and explore. and crevices that are home to a A second dive in the area, known variety of larger fish. as The Aquarium, is (as the name implies) well endowed with corals 102) Medina Underwater Springs and assorted marine life. This is an Icons: excellent training site and Location: Off White Island snorkeling spot, as it’s relatively Depth: 20-108 ft. (6-33m) shallow 30 to 70 ft. (6 to 20m) deep. There are two dives here, both interesting and unusual, that feature 103) Jigdup Slope & Wall cold freshwater springs (known Icons: locally as alibuag) bubbling out of Location: 2 km from the seafloor. These sites are both Depth: Surface -130 ft. (0-40m) about 300m west of White Island’s beach and are at the edge of the Teeming with all sorts of marine coral reef. life, this reef is a wide-angle photographer’s dream with big stands of green tubastrea corals, soft Ribbon eel corals and gorgonians. There is usually some current varying from mild to quite strong. There are actually a couple of dives to be had here with one slope dive and another a wall. The tropicals are out in and macro photography subjects like frogfish, leaf fish and nudis make this a favorite repeat site. The currents also bring in blackbar barracuda schools, tuna, sharks and seasonal

150 manta rays. Chromodoris nudibranch 104) Sunken Cemetery Icons: Location: NW Camiguin Depth: 25 -70 ft. (5-20 m)

This is a former land cemetery site that was pushed into the sea during an 1800s volcanic 105) Old Volcano eruptions. Now marked by an above Icons: the surface white cross, underwater Location: NW Camiguin the reef is alive and well with a Depth: 25 -120 ft. (5-35m) good variety of huge brain and table corals and a great diversity of A fitting dive for an island with tropical fish life. The slope has nice seven volcanoes, this site has sharp hard coral cover interspersed with undersea pinnacles formed by the soft and leather corals. Cuttlefish volcanic lava flow of years ago. The like this site as well as anthias. This varied terrain has small walls and is also quite popular with black sand chutes. This can be both snorkelers. There are a couple of a wide angle dive and macro dive. 1800s grave markers still visible Gorgonians on the deeper area underwater here. hold pygmy seahorses. Look at the crinoids to see if there are ornate ghost pipefish or check White-eye moral eel the sponges for hiding frogfish. The areas with current flowing over the sand are home to garden eels. Whitetip sharks also patrol the reefs. Also a bonus, usually when there is some current is the appearance of eagle rays. Manta rays and even mobulas also come to the Old Volcano site seasonally.

151 Mindanao proven safe for divers and any kind of visitor. Divers will be happy to learn that 106 some outstanding dive sites are within reach of these cities and Samal 107 amenities are in place to facilitate Island training and diving once there. There are good hotels and resorts at reasonable prices and a choice of dining and entertainment all in a safe environment. Davao is a genuine year ‘round diving destination; something that is Talicud Island not lost on local dive entrepreneurs who visit sites around nearby Samal 109 110 108 Island. Two Japanese ships lie in 40m (130ft) in the Malipanao his destination has suffered anchorage of the Pearl Farm Resort. Tsome bad press over the years There are caves, walls, sea mounts due to its association with extreme and other outstanding topographic insurgent groups in the south and offerings in the Davao region. There west. But some parts of Mindanao, are roughly 20 dive sites and particularly , Davao sanctuaries that hold a great and General Santos, have become amount of marine life and the area popular with visitors and have is usually uncrowded.

Sand-covered stingray

152 Baitfish at reeftop

106) Ligid Caves Davao (right between Big Ligid and Icons: Samal Islands), this sanctuary Location: NE Samal Island affords the perfect habitat for a Depth: 26-115 ft. (8-34m) leather-coral carpeted reeftop. The site is named after two Located at the extreme northeast curious looking caves starting of Samal Island in the Gulf of below 80 ft. (24m). At the entrance there are crabs, scorpionfish, tunicates, rabbitfish and lionfish, moray eels and razorfish. One of the caves actually has three entrances that all lead to a rocky corridor. They are filled with amazing numbers of reef fish, sponge crabs and black coral trees and soft corals. Due to its location at the tip of Samal, the cave occasionally has some reef sharks. Pelagic sharks and bigger fish swim outside in the

Facelinid nudibranch blue water. At a depth of 60 ft. (18m) Ligid

153 Cave dive site shows interesting Southeast of the point are three deep sea life all the way down to reef formations where schools of the cave entrance areas. The current pennant butterflyfish, surgeonfish, is normally relatively calm due to jacks and several types of angelfish the bay of Davao Del Norte, Davao are frequent visitors. The center City, Samal and Big Ligid acting as structure is covered in lush pink soft barriers. Night diving is corals, while the leeward side is recommended, especially for macro festooned with large gorgonians, photography. Nearby are the sites black coral and a host of anthias Balet Wall and Tagpopongan. For and tubastrea. underwater spelunkers the Ligid Cave dive site will prove rewarding. 108) Marissa 1, 2 & 3 Icons: 107) Pinnacle Point Location: South of Samal Island Icons: Depth: 26-60 ft. (8-18m) Location: SE tip of Big Ligid Island Depth: 26-115 ft. (8-34m) Almost everyone from snorkeler to experienced diver can enjoy this Pinnacle Point southeast of Big site. Marissa is good for training and Ligid, an islet near Samal, is not a bad night dive either. The actually an imposing pointed rock Pearl Farm maintains three reefs as formation. It has fascinating pink a marine sanctuary, so there is corals and is surrounded by two plenty of life. The coral heads, other lower pinnacles. The three undercuts, small walls and drop-offs rock formations stand at 30 to 65 ft. are interspersed with gentle slopes (9 to 19m) high. The Pinnacle is for divers and snorkelers. surrounded by tubastrea corals, anthias, black corals, gorgonians 109) Malipano Japanese Wrecks and scores of deep sea Icons: invertebrates. Location: Off Pearl Farm Resort Head southeast along the wall, current permitting, taking in views Painted triggerfish of the gorgonians and sea whips. Check out the cracks and crannies in the wall for bigeyes and cardinalfish. Some octopi and morays also dwell in the holes.

154 Siargao Jellyfish Lake

iargao is known for its great surf but Ssnorkelers and divers may want to make a stop at this idyllic isle as well. Located in the province of , it has some beautiful limestone formations at Sohoton Cove. Of interest to Non-stinging jellyfish divers and snorkelers is the Jellyfish Lake. A rare find, these marine lakes are known only to Palau and one site in Indonesia. The isolation and lack of predators has caused the jellyfish to effectively lose the sting in their tentacles. The jellies are most plentiful April through June. Outside the cove is a fan- covered wall great for diving and snorkeling. The cove has clear water, stalactites, bats, wild orchids and some climbing adventures too.

Depth: 60-130 ft. (18-40m) Divers are treated to submerged sand dunes, hard and soft coral These wrecks are only about 130 beds, tropical fish, wrasse, garden ft. (40m) apart, allowing divers to eels and parrotfish. Anemones here visit two wrecks on the same dive. have lots of shrimp, damsels, The lack of currents has prevented anthias and fusiliers. much coral from growing on the This is a great all-around site for two hulls of these Japanese ships photographers and divers levels. that sunk in WWII. Sponges and tunicates, whip corals and the odd shell or two Goby beneath feather duster decorate the wreck site.

110) Linosutan Coral Gardens Icons: Location: SE Talicud Island Depth: 16-130 ft. (5-40m)

Found west of Talicud Island, this attractive dive site in Davao is also fondly called Linosutan by local diving folks of Barangay Linosutan.

155 Palawan many islands and bays created a sheltered and hidden anchorage Coron limestone cliffs near Coron that the Japanese used to hide ships during WWII. The ships were discovered and sunk by the U.S. on its quest to retake the Philippines. Now they are coral laden mini-reefs full of marine beauty as well as war history. Divers can fly into El Nido, Puerto Princesa and Busuanga. Busuanga is for those going to both f the 7,000-plus isles in the the and Coron. OPhilippines, it is said Palawan While most of the Philippines is has 1,768 of them. Many are idyllic heavily populated and sectioned sandy beaches with coco palms and out for farming, Palawan has wide lush jungle. Others are stunning open spaces. It holds untouched limestone cliffs shielding untouched sandy beaches, high limestone cliffs coves and native plant and animal and large tracts of land set aside for life. It’s a very pretty and diverse cattle grazing. There is still wild place. And, on land, visitors might jungle here and some rare animals even find a giraffe or a zebra!! Yes, on land and in the sea. The there is an island with both African freshwater crocodile, an extremely and Philippine wild animals. endangered species, is found here. Divers have a bonus here as the

Passing over dugong and turtle sea grass beds in the Calamians

156 Calamian Islands same grasses. Many of these islands are incredibly photogenic and 114 uninhabited and romantics can arrange for a day with a special 111, 112 someone on a desert isle, getting a 113 taste of Robinson Crusoe existence Busuanga (albeit with a well-packed cooler, liquid refreshment and adult beverages). Snorkeling is generally Coron Bay good with minimal currents at most beaches. ne of the most interesting dive Busuanga is served by frequent Oareas in Palawan, and at times flights. Get a window seat as on a overlooked due to the fame of the sunny day, the flight over the islands Coron shipwrecks, is the Calamian is like a special tour with stunning Group. These islands have a variety tropical colors. of formations that include powder Most hotels and spas have white sandy beaches, rocky package deals that can include outcrops and towering trees full of diving. Instruction, daily dives and fruit bats. They are found along the special charters can all be arranged. northern shores of Busuanga Island The island group holds great fish and out into the north and eastern diversity, an array of coral life and reef systems of the Mindoro Straits. one of the war wrecks. The water The outer banks include the famous here is generally quite clear and the Apo Reef Natural Park and sites presence of the resorts and their around the Tara Islands. group of Coast Guard reserve Scenic and diverse, this is a main habitat area for the rare and endangered dugong, a sea cow Dimakya flying foxes at sunset that looks somewhat like a manatee but has a forked tail like a whale or dolphin. They graze on the sea grasses that grow on the slopes and up into the shallows of many of these islands. Sea turtles, especially green sea turtles, also nest in the islands and munch the

157 volunteers has assured dynamiters found along the reef in a couple of and poachers have not had a places and it’s a great spot for presence here. It’s a special area in macro oddities like sleepy sea this vast country of islands. moths, ornate ghost pipefish, jawfish (at times with eggs), frogfish 111) Club Paradise Housereef large and small, nudibranchs and Icons: flatworms. Location: Dimakya Island The corals are varied and a great Depth: 16-56 ft. (5-17m) variety of hard corals and sponges can be seen along the southwest The site cleverly named Housereef slope. Look also for larger fish like at Club Paradise on Dimakya Island barracuda and mackerels. Diving is one of the most interesting sites in here is normally a walk-in and can the region. That’s because the reef be done pretty much any time of has been protected as the resort’s day from the Club Paradise dive kind of personal preserve for two center. Instruction is done in the decades now. And it shows. Turtles pool but also in a natural bowl right graze the sea grass beds and lay off the beach. eggs on the beach. A virtual tornado The main attractions here are the of schooling bigeye jacks can be grass munchers. From March to May found just offshore in 10 ft. (3m) of the area is frequented by dugongs. water. Look also for big bumphead They like the grass beds directly in parrotfish. Giants clams can be front of the resort. The other

Nudibranch crawling on a lionfish at Dimakya Island

158 attraction is the constant parade of sea turtles who like the same grasses. A couple of beautiful green turtles with unblemished shells have become quite accustomed to divers and are like the Housereef pets. They like to have their shells stroked and cleaned and will eat sea grass if fed by a diver. They are very good photo subjects. Many dives can be made at this fascinating reef with varied sites for wide angle and macro photography. Anemone shrimp Dimyaka also has some fascinating birds and land creatures after a mandarinfish dive. like monitor lizards and a colony of Eagle rays and other pelagics do fruit bats that fly at night at late come by here on occasion. The dusk. Its makes quite a sight to see island has some other sites as well if you are just getting into the water that are no more than ten minutes for a night dive or just getting out

Green sea turtle eating sea grasses

159 Calauit Island

n the 1970s days of the Ferdinand Marcos Ipresidency, the president was friendly with Kenya and was gifted with a number of African animals. Now they thrive on the Calauit Island Game Preserve and Wildlife Sanctuary. So for over 30 years now the herds have roamed this vast island. It is the Nocturnal Philippine bearcat Philippines major conservation showcase for wildlife habitat and has the distinction of being the first successful wildlife translocation experiment in Asia. Seeing giraffe tracks going down the beach or seeing one towering along with the palms is not unusual. Rangers will let visitors hand-feed the giraffes. Other gazelles, zebra, local Calauit deer, mousedeer and a range of wildlife can be seen on these plains. There are also some cages near a rest area with local porcupines, freshwater crocodiles (highly endangered) and the reclusive nocturnal bearcat. Pythons and some other colorful snakes are also found here but are wild so not guaranteed. It’s great fun and takes only about a half day for a visit. by boat and have their merits. are mainly sea grasses with scattered coral heads and sponges. 112) Dimipac Island Look for Cassiopeia andromeda Icons: (upside-down jellyfish) laying in the Location: NW of Dimyaka Island sand. Sometimes decorator crabs Depth: 6-50 ft. (2-15m) carry these jellies on their shells. There is a nice path reef system A new dive site that doubles as a with tube sponges, nice sea dugong watching spot is Dimipac anemones, lots of roaming juvenile Island, a short ride northwest of catfish packs and many small Dimakya. The island is uninhabited things. The big bonus is that a and has a very nice beach. The dugong may be nearby grazing. sandy beach continues down into Keep an eye out for clouds of sand sea grass beds and the dugongs as they really stir things up. If they have been seen here grazing. are eating they usually can be In front of the beach, the slopes approached and photographed.

160 113) Kyokuzan Maru Icons: Location: East of Busuanga Depth: 35-130 ft. (10-40m)

This is one of the best wreck dives in the Coron area as the water here is generally clear with good visibility. The ship is upright with Kyokuzan stack hole little in the way of currents and it sits in a sheltered area off Dimalanta Island. normally two dives are done here. This Japanese freighter was Starting aft, the mast and cargo scuttled by its crew when the crew booms are covered in corals, zigzag got word of the attacks in nearby clams and sea anemones. The holds Coron. After the ship the are open and the hold behind the crew is believed to have gone to bridge, on the port side, has the nearby Dimalanta Island. remnants of a fancy car, complete The ship has two buoys on the with whitewalls. The majority of the two masts of this five-hold freighter. ship was salvaged after the war. But They are at the fore and aft, so there is still a lot to see. One room under the bridge leading to the engine room holds the remnants of bowls with the Japanese Navy insignia on the shards. The engine room is open and one can exit through the stack hole. It is believed the engine was salvaged through this hole. The stack lays on its side leaning to starboard. For the second dive head up to the massive bow. Swim under the gun emplacement area and down into the holds where there are more car remnants, truck parts and some odd bales that may be asbestos. Up Whitewall tire in hold top around the bridge is more of Kyokuzan Maru marine life. Batfish are ubiquitous.

161 Apo Reef

ne of the most popular and Oisolated protected marine areas of the Philippines, Apo Reef is said to be the second-largest coral reef area in the world. The sites are now visited from all over this region including Pandan Island, Apo Reef Club south of San Jose, Mindoro, (perhaps the closest venue) and by speed boat from Spotted puffer at cleaning station Dimakya Island in Busuanga. Dives such as Shark Ridge, Binangaan park” and is one of the premier dive Dropoff and North Wall are some destinations in the area. Not to be of the many attractions. confused with Apo Island, also a well-kept undersea national park 114) Apo Reef near Dumaguette, this reef is in Icons: open ocean just like its southern Location: Mindoro Straits counterpart, Tubbataha. This is a Depth: 7-130 ft. (2-40m) reef system that offers many dive sites and is good for anywhere from This is referred to as a “natural one to five day liveaboard trips.

Apo Reef Natural Park Photo © Arthur Kraft

162 Area dive shops do make the visit jack shoals and even apex predators as a day trip and try to squeeze in like tiger sharks. 400+ species of three dives. With a fast boat it is not fish and 500 corals have been so bad. With a slow banca, it is a identified here. The reef is now long day. well-protected and a park fee is Also like Tubbataha, there’s little charged to keep the rangers in food protection from the elements. It and supplies. On the whole, it is a must be dived during calmer very healthy reef system and the months. December to May is walls are spectacular. considered the season for this area Bainangaan Dropoff is an although some nearby dive shops amazing wall that eventually drops will go if conditions look to be calm away into the abyss and is best in the off season. One small island, known for its scalloped Apo Island, has a lighthouse and hammerheads and manta rays. the reef is a dual lagoon system Apo Island has soaring walls divided by a narrow channel that covered in swathes of soft coral and runs west to east. sponges with seas turtles grazing Dive sites include Shark Ridge, along the wall and resting among Binangaan Dropoff and North Wall the ledges. are some of the famous sites and at Shark Ridge has black and these and others a diver can expect whitetip reef sharks and often an to see big fish like dogtooth tuna, encounter with manta rays. It is whitetip/blacktip/gray reef sharks, peppered with shallow caves and wahoo, Spanish mackerel, overhangs with roaming groupers. Napoleon wrasse and bumpheads. Apo 29 is a sea mount with Flowing currents can bring in currents and lots of pelagic action. mantas, barracuda schools, bigeye Normally done with a long blue water drift in. Once atop the mount divers can hold Dogtooth Tuna on or hook in and watch for thresher sharks and various reef sharks, possible scalloped hammerheads, mantas and shoals of schooling pelagic fish. It is an advanced and very exciting dive.

163 Coron visibility can Busuanga 115 vary greatly, but most sites 116 are accessible 118 year ‘round. There are a 119 number of dive 117 120 centers to 122 choose from. 121 Tech diving is popular with f flying into Busuanga, one takes a many courses Ileft for a scenic drive through offered. The relative lack of currents cattle country past plains and down on most wrecks and the depths of winding hills and jungle to Coron. some of the wrecks means they are This town has become the wreck perfect for training and the practice diving capital of the Philippines. of technical diving. All of the ships The town has a newly remodeled, have mooring buoys and lines going eco-oriented waterfront, a wide down to the wrecks. selection of hotels, dive centers and There are also new sanctuaries various tours. Look for locally here with great soft corals, hard designed T-shirts and traditional corals, macro life and fish life. handicrafts at Corong Galeri Lokals. Coron Bay is a large sheltered that was a perfect sheltered anchorage for Japan’s ships during WWII. The drawback of this sheltered area is that there isn’t much water Coron Bay - Seven Lakes area movement so

164 The Skeleton Wreck

Coron War History

n September 1944, United States launched their planes. In all, 24 INavy Admiral “Bull” Halsey’s fleet bombers and 96 fighters were was heading north toward Luzon. ordered to sweep by on the bay Having no accurate charts of the area. After a three-hour flight they area, he sent reconnaissance planes surprised 15 Japanese ships in the ahead to map out a route. As they bay, the Coron Passage, the area just flew over Coron Bay, they west of as well as discovered an auxiliary Japanese three more vessels in a fleet at anchor in the bay. He remote anchorage at the northern immediately ordered an air attack. coast of Busuanga. The sortie was to cover a chart Ships attacked ranged in size from distance of 350 miles (564km) from small freighters to 15,000 ton the carriers east of Leyte to Coron tankers. To date, nine of these Bay. This became one of the longest wrecks have been discovered bombing missions in the history of around Coron and are regularly U.S. Naval aviation. visited by divers. The others Action reports show that just believed to have been hit await before dawn at 05:55 hrs. local time discovery. Corals and fish life now on September 24, the carriers thrive on the ships and many are Lexington, Intrepid and Cabot shallow enough for snorkelers. 115) Okikawa Maru Jellyfish in rock islands Icons: Location: SW of Concepcion Depth: 33-85 ft. (10-26m)

The Okikawa Maru, (sometimes called the Concepcion Wreck) is a huge ship at over 550 ft. (168m) in length. This is a civilian oil tanker pressed into military service. Sunk during the 1944 air raid, its most remarkable feature is the bizarrely particularly deep at 85 ft. (26m) to bent and disfigured bow with black the sand. Currents here can be coral trees and lionfish. This may be strong as it sits in a channel. Divers in part due to the huge ship sinking can hide by staying in the lee. nose first and crashing to the sea A shoal of barracuda often circles floor. The deck lies between 35 divers and divers are likely to ft.(11m) at the bridge down to about encounter sweetlips, groupers, 50 ft. (16m) towards the bow. batfish, lionfish, surgeons and Divers can enter one of the upper feeding mackerel. Large Jellyfish deck cargo areas and swim through often drift by this wreck in the the bow wreckage. It is not prevailing currents.

Bent bow of the Okikawa

166 Coron harbor area

116) Akitsushima And check out the engine room as it ( tender ship) escaped the salvors and has its big Icons: engine. Location: SE of Pompion Caye This wreck is known particularly Depth: 60-125 ft. (18-37m) for the huge school of batfish that hang around the ship. Tuna, Although this is one of the barracuda and yellowfins frequently deepest wrecks in the area, divers patrol the wreck. Lionfish, groupers, can see plenty without descending sweetlips and snappers hide inside. too deep. This ship was a seaplane The wreck also has some nice tender ship. There is no sign of any growths of large, fish-filled black planes, but the crane that was used coral trees. to lower the planes into the sea sits off the port aft and stretches out into 117) Lusong Gunboat the sandy sea floor at 118 ft. (35m). Icons: This is the only actual warship Location: South of Lusong Island sunk in the attack and one can see Depth: Surface to 33 ft. (0-10m) the anti-aircraft guns midships and forward. The wreck is penetrable Both the wreck and the reef through a huge crack midship. adjacent to this small gunboat are Divers can enter here with a guide an easy dive and an excellent and see lots of twisted metal and snorkeling site. At low tide, the clouds of glassfish. Very photogenic. jagged stern of the small 140-foot

167 Baitfish in the Tangat Gunboat

ship actually breaks the surface. and even enter the bridge through This is a perfect introductory wreck the hold nearest. The engine is also dive because of its shallow depth. open for inspection. Its also a good choice for a second There are lots of anemones and or third dive of the day. And its great clownfish, as well as resident for snorkelers who want to see a batfish, a couple of large groupers war wreck. and many smaller ones, goatfish and fusiliers. Look for a variety of 118) Olympia Maru nudibranchs on the ship. Icons: Location: Between Lusong & Tangat 119) Irako Depth: 40-82 ft. (12-25m) Icons: Location: Between Lusong & Tangat Lying on its starboard side, this Depth: 100-138 ft. (30-42m) wreck features black coral, finger sponges and a variety of soft and This wreck is deeper than most in hard corals encrusted along its 400 the bay and experiences strong foot-long (125m) hull. There currents at times so its for the more appears to be what is the damage advanced diver. It sits upright with hole that sunk it on the port side its deck sloping from 80 ft. at the below the bridge. Divers can bow to deck level at 100 ft. (25 to inspect all of the open cargo holds 30m). The Irako was a refrigeration

168 ship and you can see the cooling Sea turtle and black coral pipes in the holds. on the Tangat Wreck For those with excellent due to the heavy siltation on the wreck, penetrate to see the pots and pans in the galley and the inner bomb damage. It is a tricky but interesting penetration. The hull and deck are quite well covered in a variety of soft corals and sponges. Again, the current can get quite strong here, so plan the dive well.

120) Tangat Wreck Icons: Location: Off SW Point of Tangat Depth: 60-100 ft. (18-30m) glassfish in the black coral trees along with lionfish in their midst. Another good site for underwater photographers is the Tangat Wreck. 121) Tangat Gunboat It is also known as Sangat Wreck as Icons: its just a 10 minute boat ride from Location: East of Tangat Island the Sangat Resort. The ship is about Depth: 7-60 ft. (2-18m) 400 ft. (121m) long and is covered with lots of soft corals, purple and Tangat Gunboat is another great blue sponges and some hard corals. snorkeling site and an easy diving Those wanting to penetrate can site. The bow is about six ft. from enter the aft hold and swim through the surface. This 110-foot long to the next hold. You can then head vessel lies just off the rocky east through the room and you’ll coast of Tangat Island. It’s easy to exit midships near the bridge. find, as you can see the wreck Several large, friendly pufferfish clearly from the surface. This is a make for accommodating photo popular site with kayakers, subjects. Cockatoo waspfish can be snorkelers and divers. It lies right seen here. Cuttlefish like this ship. next to a reef as well. Look for clouds of photogenic Not a lot of coral grows on the

169 wreck, but some lettuce sponges sweepers, shoals of snappers, and a few small reef fish including fusiliers, several different species of harlequin ghost pipefish and striped angelfish including the beautiful pipefish call this home. six-banded angels and the emperor. The wreck also has groupers and 122) Black Island Wreck scorpionfish and lionfish. Sponge Icons: life is also nice. Location: West of Malajon Island Other Coron dives include The Depth: 55-115 ft. (17-34m) Skeleton Wreck (there are 11 wrecks in all), Barracuda Lake Not far offshore from Malajon (Cayangan Lake), Seven Picados Island, Black Island Wreck sits Reef which is one of many marine upright on the sloping sandy protected areas, Barracuda Lake bottom. It is sometimes called the Cave and Cathedral Cave. The Nanshin Maru although there seems Sangat Housereef is a favorite night to be some controversy about the dive and has big and active jawfish exact name of this ship. It’s on a and Dynamite Reef is good for slope with the stern at 65 ft.(20m) macro photos. and its bow at 100 ft.(30m). This is the northernmost of Batfish on the Nanshin Maru the Coron wrecks. Unlike most of the region’s wrecks, this one wasn’t sunk during the September 1944 air raid and may not even be of Japanese construction. Like Palau’s Helmet Wreck, it may be a spoil of the war from another nation and converted for war use. The visibility is generally good, making it popular with photographers. Named for the black rocks of adjacent Malajon Island, the wreck is home to lots of

170 El Nido life. The clear waters are home to hundreds of species of ocean life, from the smallest nudibranchs to

123 the gentle whale sharks. There are 20 dive sites near Miniloc Island Resort and Lagen Island Resort in Bacuit Bay, El Nido, and ten dive 124 sites near Apulit Island Resort in Taytay Bay, Taytay.

125 The dive sites range from gradual slopes to drop-offs, wall dives to reef flats. Visibility is generally good lessed with extraordinary especially March until May. Bnatural scenery, El Nido is one El Nido resorts have mainly PADI of the country’s main natural dive centers and offer open water attractions and has been hosting recreational diving and a variety of tourism for a couple of decades. dive courses. Night diving can be Being one of the most important arranged. Cave diving, however, is sites of biological diversity in the not allowed. country, the El Nido-Taytay The accommodations range from Managed Protected Area in standard to some new, eco-luxury Northern Palawan has one of the resorts. Numerous exciting, low- country’s richest reserves of marine impact activities are offered.

Chromis & table corals

171 Snorkeler and blue linkia starfish

123) Dilumacad and snorkelers starting in about 15 Icons: ft. (4m) of water and presenting big Location: N. Dilumacad Island boulders and rocks for the divers to Depth: 33-82 ft. (10-25m) play in and explore. Expect to see lots of fish both adult and juvenile This popular site has one feature hiding among the cracks and that makes it very popular. It has a crevices. And lobsters really like tunnel big enough for a pair of this habitat. They are sometimes divers that starts at about 40 ft. found in groups with their antennae (12m). The tunnel opens to the wall waving curiously. at 70 ft. (21m) after narrowing down a bit. The sandy bottom holds shells 125) Miniloc Island and crabs and some gobies. After Icons: exiting, divers rummage around Location: SW Bacuit Bay moving slowly shallower among the Depth: 42-70 ft. (13-21m) large rocks. This has two sites, South Miniloc 124) Tres Marias and Twin Rocks. South Miniloc has Icons: lettuce corals, sponges and blue Location: Tabago Island, Miniloc ribbon eels. Twin Rocks is different Depth: 16-92 ft. (5-28m) terrain with big table corals, sponges, tunicate colonies, hard This site is good for both divers corals and colorful sea whips.

172 Tubbataha White sand slopes of Tubbataha

126 North Tubbataha

South Tubbataha 127

esignated by UNESCO as DWorld Heritage Site, one of three in the Philippines, this is a superb destination for diving. That’s good news for divers as this is Despite its remote location from one of the finest Indo-Pacific dive Puerto Princesa City, Tubbataha has destinations in the Coral Triangle. become a popular site for the The seasonal diving runs from liveaboard crowd. March into June when the seas are It was proclaimed Tubbataha normally flat and calm. There is National Marine Park in 1988 and is little weather protection for ships as a special series of sunken atolls and the few islands are just sand spits. sea mounts in the Sulu Sea Liveaboard ships are normally protected from local and foreign pretty full so it pays to book in poachers and dynamite fishermen. advance, although there can be some good deals due to last minute cancellations. The ships normally leave at night from Puerto Princesa in Palawan and arrive in the morning. Trips average five days. Each visitor to Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park pays a Liveaboard and Tubbataha sunset conservation fee and

173 South Tubbataha lighthouse

this is usually included in the start at Shark Airport and run from liveaboard fee. This revenue is used North Tubbataha to the south, to manage, maintain and improve diving at sites along the way kind of the park. depending on what the wind is This is an important site doing. The ship will normally biologically. The area is a spawning anchor in the lee. and grow-out sanctuary for corals The north end of Tubbataha has a and fishes. This spawn may be sandy islet that is a sea bird carried by oceanic currents to sanctuary mostly as a nesting spot replenish coastal reefs and as far as for boobies and egg laying beach Papua New Guinea, Malaysia and for sea turtles. It is called Bird Islet. Indonesia. Shark Airport and South Shark The official website for Tubbataha Airport have a series of sandy is: www.tubbatahareef.org channels leading out to a wall. This is a great spot to see sea turtles, 126) Tubbataha North eagle rays and lots of various jack Icons: species. Whitetip reef sharks rest in Location: 180km or 110 miles SE of many of the sand valleys like planes Puerto Princesa , Sulu Sea on a tarmac, thus the name. Depth: Surface to130 ft. (0-40m) The wall has schooling bannerfish, bigeye jacks and A week of liveaboard diving may unicornfish. Look for some great

174 undercuts with soft corals and sea coral gardens as well as masses of fans along the wall areas. Huge schooling tangs. On all of these barrel sponges start shallow from sites, look for shallow schooling about 40 ft. (12m) to the depths. bigeye jacks. Often you will see Look closely at the sponges for the giant trevally harassing the school. tiny hairy squat lobster (Laurea There’s an old wreck here dubbed siagiani) that lives in the deep folds the Malayan Wreck. Right now it is of some of these giant sponges. pretty well broken up and is quite The South Shark Airport has a shallow at low tide. It has become a manta ray cleaning station where large cleaning station and attracts a divers can see mantas cleaning. wide variety fish both resident and The Washing Machine is a current passing through for a cleaning. It drift starting almost under the boat has two kinds of sweetlips, groupers mooring and following the current. and even a mature resident The term refers to the surface chop Napoleon wrasse. seen here, not the conditions Shallow and a bit jagged in places, beneath the surface. Lots of the wreck has a couple of swim- Napoleon wrassse can be seen throughs but mostly it is a great fish along the wall and in the upper refuge. The nearby reeftop is a

Tubbataha water so clear the ship and sky can be seen

175 habitat for red-speckled blennies. and South Wall is a popular and Also, there is a resident and large prolific area that produces sightings crocodilefish lurking. of cool pelagic life like spinner This is also the site of a blue water dolphin pods and whale sharks dive at sunrise to sneak a peek at most every diving season. There’s an schooling scalloped hammerhead area called The Valley in this area sharks. Divers get up when its still that is marked by sea whips. It is in dark and try to be in the water at here that the big guys are seen. If first light. The boat crews say there there is some southern moving is about a 70% success rate. current, drop in north of the Delsan for the most fish life like rainbow 127) Tubbataha South runners and blackbar and yellowtail Icons: barracuda and bigeye jacks. Location: SW of North Islet The shallows and sandy upper Depth: Surface to130 ft. (0-40m) reef is called Staghorn but some have suggested a name change to There are many notable sites at the Turtle Town. Multiple sightings of southern end of this reef system green sea turtles can be seen here, plus the old lighthouse sits bravely especially on the afternoon dives. on an inner reef sandbar with trees, Manta rays are also reported to sea birds and bushes. It is off limits frequent this area near the end of to visitors. the diving season in May and June. Delsan Point and the area Black Rock’s currents attract a heading south past Staghorn Point goodly population of sharks and other pelagics. like the occasional tiger shark. Ko- ok is beautiful in places. It is good for jacks, barracuda and has a sheer wall with golden and square spot The Malayan Wreck anthias.

176 Baby sea turtle swimming for open sea

177 Index Baby sea turtle Ferdinand Marcos, 160 Fish Identification, 28 A

G Accommodations, 6, 19, 39, 88, 106, 110, 145 Gato Island, 96, 104 AFP Medical Center, 180 General Santos, 152 Agnay Marine Sanctuary, Geography, 6, 12 87 Alad Marine Sanctuary, H 82 Alma Jane, 66, 73 Health, 6, 21, 88 Alona, 128, 144-149 23 Hibok-Hibok Volcano, Amun Ini, 19, 129, 134 Consulate, 18 149 Anilao Is, 44, 50 Coron Island, 165 Hippocampus, 85 Apo Reef Natural Park, Coron War History, 165 History, 6, 9-11, 40, 41, 157, 162 Culture, 2, 6, 14, 16 156, 163, 165 Customs, 6, 18 B I D Bacuit Bay, 171 Inimicus, 118 Balayan Bay, 44 DAN, 23, 180 Barracuda Lake,170 Dauin North, 121 J asterra, 174 Davao, 7, 152-155 Batangas, 44, 63, 65, 80, Department of Tourism, Japanese Patrol Boat, 42 Bicol, 14, 16, 39, 56 61 Black Island Wreck,170 Dimakya Island, 1, 27, K Bohol Island, 131 158, 162 Bounty Beach, 95 Diving History, 6, 10 Kyokuzan Maru, 161 Busuanga Island, 11, 157 Donsol Bay, 61 Dugong, 35, 156, 157, L C 160 Dumaguette, 106, 116, Legaspi City, 56 Calamians, 2, 7, 13, 156 117 Liveaboards, 6, 33 Calauit Island, 160 Luzon, 39 Cayangan Lake, 170 E Cebu 106, 110, 136 M Chocolate Hills, 128, El Nido, 7, 156, 171 129, 144 Environment, 6, 34, 49, Mactan-Cebu Climate, 6, 13 124, 152 International Airport, 106 Clothing, 6, 18, 19 F Makati Medical Center, Communication, 6, 14, 180

178 Sogod Bay, 6, 74, 76, 79 Mating squid South Tubbataha, 174 Sulu Sea, 8, 20, 173 Sumilon Island, 116

T

Tacloban, 75 Tagbilaran, 128, 144 Tangat Wreck, 169 Ticao, 6, 39, 56-58, 60 TRIMIX, 30 Tubbataha National Marine Park, 173

U Malatapay, 116 Pamilacan, 144 Manila Bay, 41 Panagsama, 110-113 UNESCO, 173 Maolboal, 144 Pescador Island, 112 USS New York, 40 Masaplod, 122, 123, 125 Philippine Embassy, 18 USS Rochester, 41 Medical, 21, 29, 180 Philippines Customs, 18 Mindoro, 6, 7, 23, 62, Puerto Princesa City, 173 V 72, 157, 162 Pura Vida, 118, 140, 141 Monad, 25, 27, 30, 94, Verde Island, 63, 72 101-103 R Visas, 6, 17, 18 Mount Mayon, 56 Visayan, 8, 174 Recompression Visayas, 7, 13, 88, 106, N Chambers, 7, 180 111, 128 Romblon Island, 81, 83 Nanshin Maru, 170 W Negros Island, 116 S NITROX, 7, 26, 30, 33, WWII, 6, 9, 11, 27, 30, 103, 108, 120, 121 Sabang, 62, 64-68 40-42, 104, 155, 156, San Miguel, 59, 60, 117 164 O Sangat Resort, 169 Okikawa Maru, 27 Security P., 6, 19 Y Olympia Maru, 11, 168 Seian Maru, 42S Oslob, 7, 27, 106, 116 Seven Lakes, 164 Yapak, 90 Siargao Island, 30 P Sibulan, 116 Z Sibuyan, 7, 8, 80 Padre Burgos Pier, 77 Small La Laguna, 63S Zamboanga, 20

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TOKYO Phone: +3 5562 1583 Phone: +8621 6281 8580 Email: [email protected] Email: philtour@philcongenshang- hai.org OSAKA Phone: +6 6251 2400 BEIJING Email: Phone: +8610 6512 8809 [email protected] Email: [email protected] PHILIPPINE DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM OFFICES WORLDWIDE

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AUSTRALIA SEOUL Phone: +612 9279 3380 Phone: +82 2 598 2290 Email: info@morefuninthephilip- Email: [email protected] pines.com.au INDIA & MACAU Phone: +852 2806 3261 MUMBAI Email: [email protected] Phone: +91 22 2200 0263 Email: [email protected] INDONESIA Phone: +62 21 8378 2203 NEW DELHI Email: [email protected] Phone: +91 11 4166 9575 Email: [email protected] MALAYSIA & THAILAND Phone: +603 5638 7288 PHILIPPINES Email: [email protected] DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM SINGAPORE DIVE-MARKET DEVELOPMENT GROUP Phone: +65 6293 8488 Phone: +63 2 459 5200 x. 520 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]

TAIWAN PHILIPPINE COMMISSION ON SPORTS Phone: +886 2 2507 6664 SCUBA DIVING (PCSSD) Email: [email protected] Phone: + 63 2 459 5200 x. 310 Email: [email protected] VIETNAM Phone: +848 3551 2202 TOURISM PROMOTIONS BOARD Email: [email protected] Phone: +63 2 525 9318 Philippines Has It All from the smallest critters to large pelagics, from shore dives to shipwrecks Explore the world’s epicenter of marine biodiversity and evolution. The Philippines is the world’s most diverse diving destination with shipwrecks, dropoffs, remote islands and lush coral reefs teeming with incredible marine life. Add to this the amazing geographic attractions, a welcoming and outgoing culture and wonderful cuisines and it is a destination that truly has it all.

PHILIPPINE DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM Dive-Market Development Group 351 Senator Gil Puyat Avenue Makati City 1200, Philippines Phone: +63 2 459 5200 to 459 5230

TOURISM PROMOTIONS BOARD 4/F Legaspi Towers 300, Roxas Boulevard, Manila 1004, Philippines Phone: +63 2 525 9318

www.itsmorefuninthephilippines.com