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Sri Lanka 14 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 342 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. Jim Robertson, Joanne Antonetti, Joe Lim, OUR READERS Joyman Lee, Julia Lawrence, Julie Woods, Kaye Many thanks to the travellers who used Kent, Keith Liker, Lars Sander-Green, Louis de the last edition and wrote to us with help- Moor, Luuk & Marion Sommers, Maarten van ful hints, useful advice and interesting Krimpen, Malcolm Skinner, Mandy Kellagher, anecdotes: Adam Grubb, Adam Krigel, Adrie Pouwer, Aishling Middelburg, Alex Smith, Alex Mark Thamel, Marta Cardoso, Martin Abra- Wharton, Alexandra Forest, Aline Pabst, An- hams, Martin Wyss, Mary Pelton, Matt Garner, dreas Rohner, Anja Biedermann, Anja Stumpf, Meaghan Philpott, Mehves Evin, Melanie Annalisa Cavallini, Anne Klier, Anthony Redden, Luangsay, Michael Gurney, Michal Rudziecki, Astrid Lenz, Becca Lumley, Bernhard Bouzek, Milena Artner, Mogens Frandsen, Mollie Jones, Brian Jones, Caroline Schouten, Chen Xiaoqin, Neil Passmore, Nils Klahr, Noah Impekoven, Chloë Eelen, Chris Bachmann, Chris Rowland, Noelia Rivas, Ole Nielsen, Paul Reynolds, Peter Chris Sutton, Chris Tuck, Christopher Rowland, Phillips, Peter Svensson, Petra O’Neill, Petra Clare Foxon, Colin Stevenson, Darius Bazazi, Sigrist, Piotr Suffczynski, Rachael Glazier, Dennis Walker, Donald Ross, Elaine Cadzow, Robin Daus, Ruben Baumgarten, Rutger van Elicia Murdoch, Elizabeth Miller, Femke Koek, den Groenendaal, Sam Fenning, Sarah Meixell, Filip Tanay, Francis Lu, Frank Höppener, George Sarah Phillips, Sheila Miller, Silvia Durrsperger, Barrow, Gerrie Bakker, Greg Kiriakou, Gregory Stefan Schmidt, Stephen Drewe, Tahira Sher- Rose, Heather O’Callaghan, Herman Fuglest- iff, Tamar Drori, Tatjana & Teodora Gazibara, vedt, Hollis Burbank-Hammarlund, Jack Clancy, Verena Pietsch, Willemijn Brouwer, Willem-Jan Jamie Witton, Jane Havell, Jan-Willem Over- Altena, William Hall, Zubair Khawar beek, Jaymini Shah, Jean-Philippe Castellani, Jeremy Dodd, Jessi Johnson, Jhone Guken, 343 WRITER THANKS Iain Stewart Ryan Ver Berkmoes It was a utter pleasure to revisit Sri Lanka, such a very special country. Thanks to Somey, Thanks to all those who won’t let the appall- my friend, driver and guide in the South and ing events of 2009 be forgotten. And thanks Hill Country, Nisha for the motorbike loan to all those who have made the last 20 years and company in Kandy, Juliet Coombe for her at Lonely Planet an incredible run, with help and tips in Galle, Herman, the Bedspace BEHIND THE SCENES life-changing travel, remarkable creativity boys around Mirissa, the Chill team in Ella and more than 100 fabulous books. But most and Joe Bindloss and all the Lonely Planet important are the life-long friendships with crew. some magnificent people. And then there’s love: without LP, no Alexis Ver Berkmoes! Finally, because he’s been there from the ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS start, Samuel L Bronkowitz has been an in- Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, spiring muse. Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Bradley Mayhew Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Many Sri Lankans helped out with the logis- Sciences, 11, 163-344. tics of research, especially Dimuthu Priyadar- shana in Giritale, and also A Malik in Kandy, Cover photograph: Buddhist monk on Weliga- and Mali and Niksan Peiris in Alankuda. ma beach, Tuul & Bruno Morandi/4Corners © Thanks to Roy in Sigirya for letting me drive the tuk-tuk and to Martin Fullerton for his generous help. This guidebook was produced Janice Bird, Anne Mulvaney, THIS BOOK by the following: Saralinda Turner, Simon This 14th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Joe Williamson, Maja Vatrić Planet’s Sri Lanka guidebook Bindloss Assisting Cartographer was curated by Anirban Ma- Product Editor Grace Dobell Diana Von Holdt hapatra and researched and Senior Cartographer David Cover Researcher Naomi written by Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Kemp Parker Bradley Mayhew and Iain Virginia Thanks to Katherine Marsh, Stewart. The previous two Book Designer Moreno Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, editions were written by Stuart Lauren O’Connell, Kirsten Assisting Editors Imogen Butler, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Rawlings, Amanda Williamson Amy Karafin and Iain Stewart . Bannister, Michelle Bennet, ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 344 Index A Polonnaruwa 215-25 Dutch Bay Beach 263 Horton Plains National accommodation 20, 320-1, Sigiriya 209-13 Galle 108 Park 182 335, 337-8, see also indi- architecture Goyambokka 136 Kandy 157 vidual locations colonial 25, 78-9 Hikkaduwa 101 Kitulgala 169 activities 26-8, 39-45, see Geoffrey Bawa 69 Hiriketiya 135 Knuckles Range 167 also individual activities area codes 19 Kabalana Beach 125 Kokkilai Lagoon 269 Adam’s Bridge 291 art galleries, see museums Kalkudah 260 Negombo 90 Adam’s Peak 12, 170-3, & galleries Kallady Beach 258 Sigiriya 213 12, 178 Arugam Bay 13, 246-51, Kalpitiya Beach 96 Talaimannar 292 adventure sports, see also 248, 13 Keeri Beach 291 Tangalla 138 individual activities ATMs 323 Kirinda 144 Waikkal 94 Colombo 68 Aurudu (New Year) 26 Lighthouse Point 252 boars 47, 140, 174, 182, Negombo 90 Ayurveda 13, 20, 25, 100, Manalkadu Beach 284 196, 198 Ahangama 125-6 333, 13 Manayaweli Cove 263 boating 43, 327, 328 air travel 326-7 Amaya Hills 166 Marakolliya Beach 137-8 Batticaloa 257 airlines 326-7 Anuradhapura 236 Marble Beach 264 Bentota 98 airports 326 Beruwela 100 Matara 132 Kandy 157 Aluthgama 97-101 Colombo 68 Medaketiya Beach 137 Nilaveli 267-8 Ambalangoda 104 Ella 193 Midigama Beach 126 Panama 253 amoebic dysentery 332 Habarana 214 Mirissa 130 books 294 Ampara 254-5 Hikkaduwa 104 Munai Beach 283 Galle 114 Ancient Cities 54, 202-42, Kandy 166 Navalady Peninsula 258 wildlife 48 203 Mirissa 130 Negombo 89 Borella 64-5 accommodation 202 Negombo 92-3 Nilaveli 267 Bridge on the River food 202 Kwai 169 Unawatuna 121 Northeast Shore 284 highlights 203 Buddhism 298, 313-14 Okanda 253 animals 46-7, 309-11, see Buddhist sites, see also Panama 253 also safaris, wild- B Buddhist statues, life-watching, individual Badulla 194 Passekudah 260 Buddhist stupas, species ballooning 206-7 Pottuvil 251 Buddhist temples Anuradhapura 10, 228-37, Bambalapitiya 74, 72 Rekawa Beach 138 Athagala 242 230, 10 Bandarawela 187-8, 187 safe swimming 40-1 Aukana Buddha 208 accommodation 234-6 Baobab Tree Pallimunai 291 Talalla 134 Buddangala Rajamaha festivals 234 bargaining 21 Tangalla 137 Viharaya 255 food 236 Batticaloa 255-60, 256 Thalpe 123-5 Buduruwagala 194-5 history 228-9 Bawa, Geoffrey 69 Unawatuna 118, 119 Getabaruwa Raja Maha information 236 Viharaya 198 beaches 8, 14, 23, 39-45 Uppuveli 265 sights 229-34 Isurumuniya Vihara 234, Alankuda Beach 96 Waikkal 94 tours 234 2, 10 Arugam Bay 246-7 Weligama 126 travel to/from 236-7 Japanese Peace Pagoda Bentota 98 Whiskey Point 252 travel within 237 255 Casuarina Beach 288 bears, see sloth bears archaeological sites Kataluwa Purwarama Chaatty Beach 286 Belihul Oya 183-4 Kuchchaveli 269 Temple 123 Chempiyanpattu Beach Bentota 97-101 Kudumbigala Forest 284 bicycle travel, see cycling Hermitage 253 Colombo 67 birdwatching 47-8, 198 Madukanda Vihara 289 Map Pages 000 culture 41 Arugam Bay 247 Maha Saman Devale 200 Photo Pages 000 Dikwella 135 Habarana 214 345 Malwatte Maha Vihara Lankatilake Temple 165 Dutch Reformed Church yoga 155-6 Mahiyangana Dagoba 109 kitesurfing 43, 90 Nagadipa Temple 286 168 Our Lady of Madhu lace-making 117 Pathma Vihara 246 Muthiyagana Vihara 194 Church 292 meditation 62, 68, 166 Seruwawila Rajamaha Natha Devale 153 Our Lady of Refuge papermaking 117 Church 276 Viharaya 264 Padeniya Raja watersports 98 Our Lady of Sorrows 257 INDEX Sri Maha Bodhi 229 Mahavihara 242 windsurfing 43 St Andrew’s Church 63 Wewurukannala Vihara Pattini Devale 154 credit cards 323 135 St Anthony’s Church Rakkhiththakanda Len cricket 82, 109 Buddhist statues, see also Viharaya Cave Temple (Colombo) 68 B-D Buddhist sites, 191 St Anthony’s Church Crocodile Rock 253 crocodiles 91, 97, 132, 141, Buddhist stupas, Ridi Vihara 241-2 (Velanai) 286 Buddhist temples St James’ Church 276 145, 196, 213, 226, 247, Seenigama Vihara 101 252, 254, 311 Monaragala Viharaya Temple of the Sacred St Lucia’s Cathedral 68 Buddha 241 cultural triangle 206 Tooth Relic 152, 12 St Mary’s Cathedral Samadhi Buddha 232 culture 294-5 Tenavaram Kovil 134 (Batticaloa) 257 Buddhist stupas, see also currency 18, 323 Vatadage 217, 219, 220 St Mary’s Cathedral Buddhist sites, (Jaffna) 275 customs regulations 321 Vishnu Devale 153 Buddhist statues, St Mary’s Cathedral cycling 327-8 Yatagala Raja Maha Buddhist temples (Trincomalee)
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