KLWines.com | 800.247.5987 August 29, 2016 SPIRITS K&L’s exclusive imports and single ​ barrel selections are rolling in.

AUGUST 29, 2016 FEATURES 1 Exclusive Malt and Grain 7 Spirit of Italy 4 Le Est Arrivé 10 Rum by Way of Scotland

Getting Back to Basics—at Cask Strength By David Driscoll

As my colleague Jeff Jones and I sat on the plane to Scotland this past told him. Not only were the fundamentally classic in style, they March, I said to him, “I’d like to find some alternatives to the standard were reasonably priced. Hunter Laing is the brand of the Laing whisky heavy peat, heavy sherry formula that we seem to have fallen into. dynasty from whom we purchase our Hepburn’s Choice-labeled malts, Rather than respond to the market, I’d like to start guiding it.” I don’t as well as several of our Faultline Scotch and rum selections. Joining think I’m alone in my appreciation for nuance, subtlety, complexity and us for the first time this year was Hunter Laing’s master blender Tom delicacy when it comes to classic . While I’ve enjoyed the Aitken, who used to blend for Dewar’s back when Bacardi first bought last decade of fashionable trends as they pertain to single malt, I don’t the brand. Tasting samples with a veteran who understands the inner know anyone out there who cut their teeth on bold, brash whiskies like workings and the history behind some of these lesser-known distilleries the heavily sherried, cask-strength Aberlour A’Bunadh or the incredibly is invaluable. For example, when Jeff and I tasted the first cask—a 1998 peaty blast of pepper that is the Bruichladdich Octomore. Most of us Royal Brackla—we were completely taken aback. The whisky was a started with old-fashioned Scotch like Glenlivet 12 or Glenmorangie 10, light straw color, but on the palate it was heavy, rich, mouthcoating and then worked our way forward from there. Lately I’ve been feeling a little supple. “I’ve never tasted a Royal Brackla sample like that before,” I said nostalgic for those early days of drinking, so I decided to make that a to Tom, who responded by explaining that used the theme for this year’s trip: getting back to basics. That not only meant the distillery as a sort of experimental lab during that time. basics of classic Scotch whisky enjoyment, but also a time when whiskies They made all sorts of different styles back then, and the were interesting, dynamic and much more affordable. Of course, we’re quality could be wildly varying. not in control of pricing when it comes to supply. All we can do as a But the hits didn’t stop there. We moved through similar retailer is find creative ways to work backward once we know the costs. styles of whisky, each rather light and unassuming As someone who’s spent the better part of two years reeling from the in appearance, but chock-full of character. A young housing costs of the Bay Area, I was even more determined to alleviate Macallan glided like silk over our tongues. A 1991 some of the frustration that has resulted from the rising price of fine in second-fill sherry showcased a perfect Scotch whisky. How we were going to do it, I wasn’t sure, but come hell balance between fruit and vanilla. Other unpeated, or high water I was going to find a way. unsherried selections from distilleries that can’t be When we finally arrived at the Glasgow office of Hunter Laing late in the named were also spectacular. The peated selections afternoon, it was as if Andrew Laing had read my mind. There on the we did find were classic in style, nothing young or table were dozens of different samples, of various ages, all in precisely experimental, just good, old-fashioned Scotch. the style I was looking for. “It’s like you tapped into my subconscious!” I (Continued on page 2)

Cover: Somewhere in the department of Allier, a unique single-grain spirit mellows in Tronçais oak barrels. phenolic elements at play, very subtle hints of peat that work as an undercurrent to all the sweet stone fruit and vanilla. The combination of grain and fruit is like a burst of classic malt goodness, but on the finish

SPIRITS it turns savory with hints of sagebrush and white pepper. All in all, this is an incred- ibly dynamic malt for the price and a great introduction to the distillery for newcomers. Bacardi has since turned Royal Brackla into its own single malt brand that should be on American shelves soon.

1991 Glen Keith 24 Year Old “Hepburn’s Choice” Single Sherry Barrel Cask Strength Whisky ($89.99) This single sherry butt cask of Glen Keith is another K&L “refill” selection, meaning An array of samples at the Glasgow office of Hunter Laing & Co. we purposely looked for whisky matured in sherry casks that had been used previously for the same purpose. The result of refill (Continued from page 1) aging is that the whisky still takes on some Tasting and finding great whiskies are one thing—arranging for of the richer, fruity, sherry-esque flavors, but much more mildly, their transportation, price and labeling is an entirely different task. helping to maintain the integrity of the inherent malt character. In However, I’m happy to report that after several months of logistical looking for delicious Scotch whisky that tastes like old-fashioned ping pong, we’ve brought some of these fantastic whiskies from Scotch whisky, we came upon this outstanding Glen Keith: a Speyside Glasgow to K&L and they’re ready for your approval. distillery that’s part of the Chivas portfolio. The whisky is classic Highland in style. The nose explodes with cereal grains, apricots Hepburn’s Choice Selections and pear, vanilla and the faintest hint of almond. The palate shows a 1991 John McCrae (Balvenie) 24 Year Old “Hepburn’s Choice” bit of rich Oloroso character, briefly, before giving way to the more Single Barrel Cask Strength Blended Malt Scotch Whisky ($129.99) standard dried stone fruit flavors and supple, malty deliciousness. It’s While it’s become common practice over the years for independent the price, however, that really grabs your attention: 24-year-old, cask bottlers to label their single malt whiskies by distillery, there are strength, single barrel, for $89.99?! Sherry aged, a handful of producers who do not want their brand name to be no less! Thank goodness it was a big barrel, because we’re sure this is mentioned or utilized by a competitor when selling casks to a third going to be quite popular. party company for blending use. To prevent that from happening, Stay tuned for more selections from Hepburn’s Choice, as we expect some producers practice “teaspooning,” meaning they add a teaspoon to have more incredible values available as fall arrives. of a second whisky into the cask, instantly changing the whisky from The other half of the Laing empire is Douglas Laing, the original a “single” malt into a “blended” malt. Once the whisky is “blended,” family business with whom we bottle the K&L Old Particular single the name of the distillery can no longer be used on the label, because cask selections. The nice part about purchasing from both sides of it’s technically no longer a single distillery bottling. However, when the Laing operation is that each has its own set of whiskies, with you taste this John McCrae blended malt whisky (aka teaspooned stocks that represent a wide spectrum of distilleries and styles. Balvenie), we’re pretty sure you’re going to be as thrilled as we are. To We met Chris, Fred and Kara at the company’s Glasgow office to get a single cask of Balvenie is almost unheard of, and getting one this sit down and taste a number of old-fashioned whiskies from both good for this price is a rare treat indeed. The nose is candied ginger, the malt and grain family. What’s interesting about grain Scotch round vanilla, and sweet malty grains, and the palate builds into whisky is that because it’s so misunderstood, the prices are quite more cereal grains, dried fruits, honey, resin and a beautiful, classic, reasonable in comparison to malt. Grain whisky is what’s combined old-fashioned Highland Scotch finish of sweet, biscuity malted barley. with single malt to created blended Scotch whiskies like Johnnie Royal Brackla 17 Year Old “Hepburn’s Choice” Single Barrel Walker or Dewar’s. It’s generally distilled from corn, rye, wheat or Cask Strength Single Malt Scotch Whisky ($59.99) We’d of course unmalted barley and aged in neutral casks to create a soft, rich and heard of the Bacardi-owned distillery, known for its role in blended easy-drinking canvas for the malt whisky to play upon. When bottled whiskies, but we’d never tasted one quite like this. This particular as its own entity, the results can be rather run-of-the-mill. However, cask was absolutely stunning. It is straw colored and light to the eye, if you leave grain whisky to sit in wood for four-plus decades, the but packed with so much flavor it’s incredible. There are definitely flavors begin to congeal and concentrate, and the wood turns into

2 Get up-to-the-minute inventory at KLWines.com SPIRITS

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because still we a few have tricks our up It’s notIt’s easy to tune out a bagpiping busker of Glasgow. This will surelygo down of one as the great single malt deals the of and year, appears it to be even a deal of more considering the new $900 price tag the distillery is asking the for particular This release. official iteration is like a tropical daydream the on nose: fresh peach and sugar cane float lazily across the surprisingly sweet palate. aged in It’s and hogshead, however, there’s no sherry and little to smoke no in this expression. Its brilliance, at work:at orange zest, candied sugar and apricot. A whisky classic in the making and a piece of history, to boot. 1990 Bunnahabhain Old “Old 25 Year Particular” K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Scotch Whisky ($149.99) Check out more staff product reviews at KLWines.com at product staff reviews more out Check nonetheless, is a testament to the inherent fruit the of whisky and the benefits of slow, steady maturation in fine cooperage. The finish is all sweet grains and malted barley with touchessalt of and the sea. Islay fans will be thrilled. Bunnahabhain want fans won’t to miss it. And get you all that of goodness at cask strength thanks $149.99 for to our Direct Import pricing. supposed were to three have We other Old Particular selections to share with 18-year-old Auchentoshan, (an you 28-year-old Glenturret, and 19-year-old Arran), upon discovering but their incredibly pricing low online, our customers snatched every up last bottlebefore could we get this newsletter just out. It goes that to show our effortsbring to value back to the category are beingwell received, and couldn’t we be happier about it. Make sure keep you your eyes peeled to the K&L website, sleeve. There are some incredible deals in works the for later this fall. -

Tasting whisky samples with the staff at Douglas Laing in Glasgow. ering the price and theprofile, flavor expectdon’t thisone to last long. Only 247 bottles available. Garnheath1974 Old “Old 42 Particular” Year K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Grain Scotch Whisky ($249.99) In yet another our of lost whisky collection (meaning distilleries that have since closed and/or been demolished), bring we an you absolutely stunning cask 42-year-old of , a grain whisky from the once-active distillery site inside Moffat site, Inver of House’s located just east Glasgow of the on road to Edinburgh. The distillery was located next to another closed malt-producing site, Glenflagler. Closed in the mid-eighties, just now a memory and a story to share among friends, the spirit Garnheath of lives (literally) on in this single barrel, cask strength edition bottled just K&L. for only Not is the Garnheath a lost legend, this 42-year-old edition is the of one smoothest, roundest, most luxurious whiskies ever had we’ve the pleasure selling. of rolls It across the tongueeffortlessly, coating the palate with rich waves caramel, of honey and maple syrup. In classic grain whisky style, maltiness no there’s just smoke or four here. It’s glorious decades of barrel maturation Last year sold we a 50-year-old grain whisky $300 for and sold it inout less than 24 hours. This time around managedwe’ve to shave $20 off price the tag withoutreducing qualitythe or bit! one age The 50 is alive well and afterfive decades, with loads of toasted oak, butterscotch, marzipan and honey flavors that easeover the palate with a delicate and lithe profile. Casksof long Invergordon, Scotland’s of one stalwarts grain for whisky production, are readily available, few with but this level maturation of and depth. Consid Old Particular Selections 1966 Old “Old Invergordon Particular” 50 Year K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Grain Scotch Whisky ($279.99) decadent syrup, layers honey, of molasses and caramel. As luck would it, have the folks Douglas at Laing sitting were some on very nice, mature casks both of grain and malt. SPIRITS 4 Alsace to drive to decided I’d (it’s malt Switzerland), not in single great next for the Switzerland of scouring days unsuccessful three After the hook. off ring to seemed phones the and gone unnoticed had website the to My emails distillery. the with contact making actually ever without town in arrived I’d shut. were sealed doors distillery the confirmed: were fears my worst Uberach in arrived Ifirst When Uberach Othenin-Girard By David Le French Est Arrivé Whisky products exclusively at K&L. at K&L. exclusively products special these now proud offer we to are and world whisky, of French wide the from offerings compelling most best, for the year last the over We’ve on asearch been distinctiveness. their ensure to whisky of types other from influences avoid specifically to as far so going even region, their to unique completely are that products crafting to committed large, by and have, distillers new these whisky, of Scotch consumption astronomical countrymen’s their despite impressive, Even more category. the to fully have committed but some business, standard of their part as bit of whisky atiny make who distillers artisan small, often are up. These have opened distilleries whisky French 40 nearly years, 20 last over the that no surprise be It should spirits. consume and distill love French to the region, other or any Normandy Alsace, in Whether distillation. of lovers well-known also are The French year. every there consumed are of Scotch cases 13 million More than volume. by whisky of Scotch world’s consumer top the is France that know to surprised But you be may French. distinctly are that things are these cheese— brandy, Wine, for whisky. its known not aplace is France Get completeGet tasting notes at KLWines.com The picturesque area of Hérisson, home to an unusual French whisky. French unusual an to home of Hérisson, area picturesque The is tiny, so he couldn’t guarantee that anything would be available. available. be would anything that guarantee he couldn’t tiny, so is production and batches small in made was no. Everything certainly almost he said available, be would tried we had malts of the any if guide my asked I When aging. sherry fino of a effects the to similar somewhat mushroom, flinty some bringing jaune vin the and pipes port like acting Rivesaltes and Rasteau the quality; sherry Oloroso almost an giving Banyuls oak; or virgin bourbon with correlating oak French used and new with Scotland, in options aging the to similarly very function regions, wine French from sourced all of casks, range the Stylistically, lineup. the me through walked who worker distillery a to me introduced and shop gift asmall me into ushered she and there, American have an to surprised quite was she Ithink woman. elegant very by a staffed office alittle Ifound until building the my around way Imade sunlight. the in shining stills alembic antique beautiful, the exposing open, were wide doors front the time, this By distillery. the to my back way Imade Forêt, la de Restaurant at lunch exceptional my After at ease. my worries put chanterelles with veau de noix the and Pinot local of the A glass trip. whole the had I’d food exceptional most enjoy of the some and of wine bottle a order restaurant, this into walk to by noon work day their stopped had all professionals, young businessmen, workers, Construction restaurant. little that inside gathered was town entire the desolate: so seemed had streets the reason the realized quickly and bistro little the into up. open to Iducked distillery by the be eventually would someone that me assured shopkeeper the store, wine the Ileft As done.” love well of ajob the through perfection “Seeking quality: to commitment of the indication agood founder’s motto their ago, some years 150 started Distillery Bertrand the That’s how vies. de eau quality superior producing began and growers best their with relationships developed best The very growers. the to it back selling and orchards from local fruit excess the distilling neighbors, their off living their made mostly distillers recently, Until of France. basket fruit the be to consider many what create climate and soils finest The fruit. of fresh abundance incredible an with blessed is you see, world-class home two to fact in Alsace, distilleries. was stature, small its despite Uberach, whisky. malt of course, and, vie de eau Alsace, about shopkeeper the quizzing hour next the Ispent corner. the in shop wine small a but I noticed silently, sat brewery organic local The of life. no sign but again there, erected been had buildings modular modern Some town. outside just area industrial asmall across I came streets sleepy the through Isaw. Idrove As were all distillery desolate this and bistro aminiscule boulangerie, Atiny area. the in villages other as picturesque not as and modern rather of them most homes, of several agrouping Just it. missed nearly and really, road the in abend not more than hamlet, sleepy small, the in early arrived I’d blend together. to start all they villages; Alsatian small the between darting aflash, gone by in had Basel from drive beautiful strikingly The unassuming. is Uberach about everything fact, In years. in used it hadn’t been like looking distillery little unassuming the and gleaming sun Alsatian bright the Istood, But there on achance. ​ We’d have to wait for the owner, Mr. Metzger, he said. Demoralized, less peaty versions from earlier distillations. It’s clear that there’s but not defeated, I thanked the generous staff, left my card and prayed been a massive improvement in the base spirit over the last 13 years. for the best. As I was walking out, Isabelle called down from the This new spirit is full of sweet malt and earthy peat playing perfectly SPIRITS office, “Wait, wait, I have Mr. Metzger on the phone.” I rushed back together. While it doesn’t feel like a young Islay (it is malted on locally to the office and took the phone to hear a gruff voice ask me what I sourced peat, of course), the closest thing I can compare it to is the planned to do and why I was there. I said that I worked for one of wonderful young spirit coming out of Kilchoman. the best stores in the States and that we would be honored to be their partner in California. Seeming surprised, but not at all shocked that Unfortunately, due to many factors, the distillery can only produce I’d loved his whisky, Mr. Metzger said that I was the first American a few weeks out of the year. With his small stills and bootstrap to ever visit the distillery. He then informed me that he won’t allow attitude, he’s filling less than 30 barrels a year. We’ll be lucky if we see his product to be sold on just any shelf in just any store. He selects his any of Mr. Metzger’s exceptional single cask products this year, but in partners exactingly for their commitment to independent producers, the meantime you can check out his wonderfully unique and utterly quality and integrity. I smiled and said, “You sir, I believe, are a quirky assemblage he bottled for especially for us. perfect fit for us.” Uberach “Assemblage” Alsace Single Malt When I returned to Alsace this year, I finally got to meet the Whisky ($59.99) Using organic pilsner malt, about proprietor of the spectacular Bertrand Distillery. Jean Metzger is one-third of which is very lightly peated, Metzger unflappable and direct, but also kind and gracious. He’s a total local, adds the purest water in France, sourced from but loves to go surfing in Sri Lanka and works as a lifeguard at the the legendary Vosges Nature Reserve. The beer local pool to make ends meet. He’s first and foremost a wine lover, is fermented using the brewer’s yeast from the wine before whisky without a doubt. It was this passion for wine that organic brewery down the way to about 6% ABV. ultimately led him to attempt something special in the burgeoning It is then meticulously distilled twice in tiny, category of Whisky d’Alsace. The AOC classification is finally done traditional Alsatian copper pots before being filled after nearly a decade of work (a big deal here in France), but distilling into either vin jaune, Rivasaltes, Rasteau, new beer is not a new thing here. In fact, the distillery has a shared French oak or Banyuls casks. Each of trademark (with two other local distillers) for an eau de vie of beer these unique barrels provides a completely called Fleur de Biere that goes back many years. His first distillation different flavor after maturation. This small of single malt (a wort containing no hops and 100% malted barley) batch is a selection from some of the distillery’s was in 2003. While it was not the first malt whisky distilled in Alsace, older stocks (around 6 years old), of reused Jean figures it was likely the second, and he makes a point of the fact French oak barrel and a second-use Banyuls that it was the first to be distilled with beer brewed in the same place cask, selected and bottled by hand exclusively as the distillation. The organic brewery next door is responsible for for K&L Wine Merchants. Expect big, powerful mashing and fermenting. This is why he calls it Uberach, homage aromas of ripe pear, candied yellow plum and to the place he feels is an essential element to the spirit’s character. malty grains. Only 160 bottles. Other than the sense of terroir that he’s trying to capture, the other Hedgehog element that is essential—as is true with almost all whisky—is the The next wild French whisky that we stumbled upon is the very élevage, or aging. unusual Hedgehog whisky from the commune of Hérisson in Allier. That brings us to the barrels. Oh, God: the barrels he has are just The Hedgehog is unlike any other whisky in the world. It comes silly. It’s a veritable Rolodex of France’s finest wine producers. It out of one man’s passion and determination to make a truly unique should be noted that while Metzger does work with some of France’s regional whisky without the influence of any other production most renowned and exciting wine producers, he does not feel that style or method. I mean, this guy—the whisky is distilled under the the intensity of the wine influence necessarily means better whisky. pseudonym Mr. Balthazar—literally didn’t do any research on other Certain casks, like the first-fill Banyuls (a fortified wine something ways to make whisky. akin to port), turn out rich, inky whiskies that are obviously heavily Located in the department of Allier, the center of France and the marked by the flavor of the wine. Jean prefers those same casks on historic realm of the Duke of Bourbon, Hérisson (which means the second or third fill. He’s concerned with highlighting the malt and making sure the flavor of the spirit is not completely overshad- “Hedgehog” in French) is a popular summertime destination for owed by the cask influence. theater lovers. Whisky lovers who venture behind the famous Church of St-Sauveur will find the workshop where Hedgehog was first I think that his most impressive whiskies are the oldest, with the most produced in 1983. And on the wall inside the workshop is an old intense cask influence, but perhaps that will change as the quality of joke of W.C. Fields, slightly modified to fit the circumstances of this spirit and the average age improve. On that note, I did get a chance whisky: “One should always carry a small bottle of Hedgehog in case to taste a two-week-old spirit peated to 40ppm that has replaced the of a snake bite. And one should always have a small snake handy.”

Online auctions are LIVE at KLWines.com 5 SPIRITS kind. Couvreur is the only producer producer only the is Couvreur kind. one of a is at Toro 1950s the in Albalá started asolera from butt ultra-saturated This bottlings. modern in not available simply that’s away in of Jerez wine great of redolent that is whisky this casks, the freshest possible Montilla-Moriles of butt one single in Matured needed. as for consumption drawn and estates great Scotland’s and England of cellars the in on hand kept were both Scotch and sherry when atime era, Victorian of the whiskies malt legendary the of recreation ($219.99) Whisky Malt Exclusive K&L Sherried” Auld “Blossoming Couvreur Michel whiskies. Couvreur exceptional on these country the in anywhere selection and pricing best we’ve got the meantime, way. the of the In step every there be we’ll that fact You on the count brand. can whisky idiosyncratic for this plans big has and Mr. Couvreur as whisky about passionate as bit every is him, call we affectionately as J.A., Frantzen. Jean-Arnaud successor and protégé work of his masterful the through Bouze-lès-Beaune, beneath caves the on in lives legacy his ago, away years afew passed himself man the Although price. better even at an whisky great you this bring and importer the from directly buy to able we’ve been that recently only it is years, for producer this we’ve with worked While fandom. whisky French of flames the fanning that’s whisky K&L final the to us leads This CouvreurMichel a t fine of this purveyor in anywhere available spirits unique most result The matures. and barrels ex-cognac into years of three for aminimum transferred is whisky the casks, new these in year one After industry. the in sought-after most the are producers, cognac and wine by used barrels, These oak. Tronçais famous the from fashioned at 60%ABVthespiritf Af over a10 slowly 14 to fermentation. day w entire of amount asmall with mixed and barley malted of miles within grown the with begins Mr. Balthazar whisky! times: produced hadn’t been that something make ingredients two Together these oak. and grain products, for two ($44.99 Whisky French Grain Single Hedgehog 6

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Moscato grappa. Moscato Get complete tasting notes at KLWines.com at notes tasting Get complete Elisabetta, Antonella, and Cristina Nonino with a bottle of their There is a massive consumptionof amaro happening in the In London, yes, because that’s the most important place are excited! a great We thing. It’s I think also it’s the best Yes, I do. I remember I do. seeing Yes, Manhattans made with Amaro Are seeing you bartenders in Europe follow suit? As someone with family a long tradition producing of after- source. them: I told think But I don’t so. I think coming it’s from the US, especially the Coast. West Starting about eight to ten years ago saw interestwe in San Francisco, Seattle and Portland amari, for so I think started it there. agree? you Don’t David: Nonino instead vermouth of back in 2007 when I first started exploring the Bay Area bar scene. Elisabetta: American cocktail scene. They are pioneers, the opinion.my in If you study the history American of cocktails before and during Prohibition when alcohol was illegal, I think that’s the origin mixology. today’s of The beauty is that Europe—and especiallyItaly with amaro—has a traditionlong classic of liqueurs. In Italy make we amari, liqueurs and bitters—we use all three terms. They have always beenveryof a high qualityand a veryWe used precise to drink flavor. them straight,but the American mixologists shown have that possible it’s to use them in a different way withvery good results. David: Elisabetta: cocktailsfor in Europe In right Berlin, now. too, from what heard. I’ve There of lot a are famous bartenders in London right now who are Italian, so they understand the tradition and the history vermouth of and bitters from Globalization Italy. has helped to spread these ideas, I think. What noticed, I have is that however, in Europe often we use fewer ingredients in our cocktails than normal what’s in the US. David: dinner spirits, what does your family think about this new trend of drinking Nonino products as part a cocktail of before dinner? Elisabetta: way to introduce younger people to spirits, so that eventually—when they are adults—they can appreciate grappa and amaro itself. by When I was young and just starting to drink grappa a glass or wine, of I didn’t really like it. I think I was like most young people—I wasn’t - It’s doing very very, It’s well, both in the United States and I was just Yes, the of Tales at Cocktail in New Orleans. It’s Are visiting you with more bartenders and sommeliers these I just tried Amaro to order more Nonino yesterday and I was days rather than with retailers and supermarkets? Elisabetta: in Canada.big a amaro There’s trend Northin America rightnow, especially with the mixology scene. David: funny because in Europe the bartenders are saying that London is the origin this of new interest in amari. had we a meeting On Monday, because they’re starting a new mixologist fair and event in so Italy, there a few were bartenders the at meeting saying that London was the tion a category of once associated with older generations past. long It’s also opened the door new for developments in casting Italy, a wider spotlight distillers on who are branching into out whiskey and even gin. I caught once up again with Elisabetta Nonino this past week to pick her brain about the recent explosion and findher how family out is adapting to the trend. David: the by told distributor that the product has back-ordered because— once again—it’s sold from out the This supplier. is becomingregular a thing! must be seeing You record sales in the United States right now to ourdue county’s current fascination with amari. Elisabetta: A few years ago, back when I still ran a regular podcast and did interviews with distillers from all the over world, I conducted an audio interview with the Nonino sisters—the three famous (and beautiful) heirs the to Nonino family distillery in Italy’s Friuli region, the of one country’s most famous grappa producers. We hopingwere to bring attention to the traditional and regional spirits Italy—aof blossoming category thought we would be immense of interest to our cocktail consumers who couldn’t seem to get enough Campari and sweet vermouth to satiate their thirst. however, In 2016, that message is in longer no need broadcast. of The vast and complex Italian of world spirits is a secret. longer no word Theout: is the cat is completely the of out bag. The category is all the rage with curioustoday’s cocktaildrinkers, and bartenders across America are continuing to innovate andcreate exciting new drinks from the country’s and long-held spirited traditions. If thought you there were few Italian cocktails beyond the ubiquitous Negroni and Aperol Spritz these days, think again. find You’ll Nonino the family’s amarorecipe drinkon menus across the nation mixed with whiskey, rum, Cognac, tequila, cachaca and even mezcal. The combinationof sweet spices with bitter herbs adds an incredible depth to a number different of libations, matter no what the base ingredient. Amaro means “bitter” in Italian, and as America seems to lost have its sweet tooth as it pertains to alcohol the over last decade, has it developed a real taste for Italy’s unique category bitter of liqueurs known as amari. Spirits that oncewere sipped neat as a way to settle the stomach after dinner are movingnow to the forefront the of meal. As the awareness Italy’s for historic regional spirits has continued to spread, brought with it’s it a new renaissance distillation of in the country old and the resurrec A New Renaissance of the Italian Spirit DavidBy Driscoll SPIRITS 8 my father was about twenty. My father learned how to distill from his his from how distill to learned My father twenty. about was my father until by herself distillery the ran Nonino Sylvia my grandmother so old, years eight he was when father his lost My father grandmother. Elisabetta: at Nonino? innovation to lead might spirits Italian traditional with David: hand-in-hand. go innovation and Research things. good see to continue we’ll Ithink so well, as quality in increase an usually is there research, is there When cocktails. classic make to today required knowledge of level There’shigh a involved. tradition the and history the about and more more learning love after in fell they but at first, spirits in weren’t interested they Maybe well. as cocktails of background historical the and ingredients the loveto research They history. the in interested very are they thirties—and early and twenties their people—in young very all are mixologists and bartenders The number, but it’s increasing. small US it’s the avery to Compared bars. Elisabetta: well? as spirits traditional country’s David: thing. agood is globalization case, way.this In adifferent but in doing, is Italy of what quality high the appreciating are People everywhere spirits. in quality on focus arenewed see to nice It’s also tradition. proud of our very us US makes the in popular become that like spirit To aregional see base. abrandy with of ingredients amix is amaro the grappa—whereas and distillation—brandy and spirits on pure focused very were always My parents product. aregional It was Friuli. in just sold and produced originally but 1945, it was since amaro our We’ve producing been but disappeared. all had Italy, they In back. advertisements—come the from Iremember my youth—that from Iremember that amari many so It’s see to nice amari. the now, right especially spirits Italian with Elisabetta: way? anew in spirits traditional family’s your mixing bartenders young these all see and America to you come How when you do feel spirits. these drink did grandparents your because cooler almost David: drink. would grandparents their that something merely to or amaro grappa not linking and spirits appreciating people more young see to It’snice years. five last the in been moment has real But the for time. some cocktails grappa in interested have been we so grappa, our with Rome made in bar Hotel Grand at the develop helped my mother that We have acocktail cocktails. in grappa Elisabetta: now? cocktails in grappa you using David: perfectly. works evolution same this way. cocktails, With traditional the amaro and grappa appreciate to start you can forties, or thirties in your are slowly. flavor when you Then, the understand to start abit and alcohol the dilute however, it, you can by mixing start If you spirits. to comes it when quality that appreciate to it’s difficult twenties early your in you are but when products, good very drinking and eating to used we are my family, in and Italy In it to yet. used Get completeGet tasting notes at KLWines.com Do you think the resurgence and research we’re seeing now we’re seeing research and resurgence the you think Do their now embracing Italy in bartenders and people young Are It’s Ithink. tradition, by that fascinated US are the People in Are amaro? as path same the follow will grappa you think Do Yes, we may look back at some old recipes from my my from Yes, old recipes at some back we look may more cocktail see to we’re starting cities big Yes, the in love in really are people US, the in because It’s incredible use to pioneers one proud of the be Yes, to we are and cocktail glass. cocktail a into strain and ice with Shake 3/4 lemon juice oz. 3/4 Aperol oz. Nonino 3/4 Amaro oz. or rye 3/4 bourbon oz. Plane Paper The are!). parts those what (so you remember long as parts equal it’s all because remember to easy is aNegroni, like that, Plane, Paper the called showed me once someone drink another There’s Add acherry! ice. or without with glass acocktail into strain and well Stir of bitters 2 dashes Nonino 3/4 Amaro oz. or bourbon rye 2 oz. Manhattan Nonino Amaro The way: it this trying since vermouth with aManhattan made ($44.99) Amaro Nonino the using try to looking drinker you’reIf awhiskey same. it’s the spirits, with region; the and variety, the vintage, the know to now we want but or white, red was wine then Back more to specialization. survival on based needs fundamental we’ve from moved then Since you like. if day have it every now you have can it; to you were lucky and a week once meat eat you might ago years Sixty anymore. at lunch meal big a don’tneed differently—they eat they so office, the work in people Now aliving. make to jobs physical did people Most conditioning. or air home, their in have heat didn’t people many ago years Sixty weren’t before. that possible ways in drink and food appreciate to We’re we way live. the and able we way dress the we way eat, of the Elisabetta: change. that to adapting are spirits Italian traditional however, It’s see, to that evolution. nice this around practices drinking our alter we would that sense it makes so meals, for multi-course down did. We’re sitting not generations previous than today differently David: alcohol. less but with grappa, of the aromatics fresh the sense still can she that loves She health. for overall her it’s better thinks she and doesn’tShe have a headache cocktail. a after day next the better feels she says She of wine. instead tonic and grappa aNonino drink my to mom loves we go out arestaurant, when to Nowadays it’s great. so appreciation, traditional to gateway the is this that realized they Elisabetta: cocktails? Nonino of trend David: innovation. but also tradition, to linked recipes—something those of at some look and go back probably We will distillation. on pure My however, father, more focused was amari. and of liqueurs selection abig we had Iremember school elementary in Iwas When mother. Lower alcohol drinks are really becoming the norm. We norm. eat the becoming really are drinks alcohol Lower new the about think at Nonino generation older the does What in a fun cocktail, here are a few options. Personally, Ihaven’t Personally, options. afew are here cocktail, afun in For sure. That is the beauty when you look at the evolution evolution the at youwhen look beauty the is That For sure. However, convinced. were not really they beginning, the In

Brown Spirit from the Boot: K&L Exclusive Italian Brandy By David Driscoll SPIRITS

I’ve been waiting a long time for this day, the moment when we one that does not require coloring agents or added sugar to soften the could start talking about Italy’s potential as a serious source of mouthfeel. The brandies are impressive and all-encompassing from distilled spirits beyond the ubiquitous vermouth, amaro and the very first sip. But, if you’re a whisky fan, wait until you taste that herbal liqueur selections that are sweeping the cocktail culture. concentrated flavor at 59.7%. Distillation has been practiced in Italy since the early days of grappa On the nose, the aromas meander between stewed fruits, oak spice and medicinal remedies. Unlike what’s happening with the craft and burnt vanilla. On the palate, the flavors continue to evolve along distillation scene in America, many of the “new” labels we’re seeing the same track, but what shocks you is the richness and the power. from Italy come from companies established in the 1800s. In many I have to imagine that bourbon fans will be drawn to that sheer cases these producers have not only generations of knowledge as it strength and Scotch fans to the maturity and the concentration. pertains to spirits, but also plenty of back inventory. Take the case of Again, my favorite part about this whole deal is the price. Our very, Guido Zarri as an example, the man behind the Villa Zarri brand. very best Cognacs typically retail in the $90 to $150 range, and that’s at In addition to his fantastic amaro, his delicious nocino and his the watered-down 40% ABV. Here we’ve got single barrel, unadul- dangerously drinkable ciliegia, Guido has mature stocks of Cognac- terated brandy at full proof with 24 years of age at $99.99. It doesn’t style brandy (distilled from Trebbiano, basically Ugni Blanc grown matter what you like to drink: Scotch, bourbon or Cognac. If you’re a in Italy) dating back to the late 1980s. As if his incredibly well-priced fan of brown spirits, you’re going to love this. The proof? Our owner 10- and 21-year-old brandies weren’t enough to persuade you of his just bought a bottle, and he drinks about one glass of brown spirits per prowess, I decided to dig a little deeper into his cellars. year. Looks like we know what this year’s selection will be. Don’t wait “I want to do a single barrel, and I want to do it at full proof. Is that for a better Armagnac or Cognac to come later in the year. There’s OK with you?” I asked Guido during a phone conversation earlier nothing better than this bottle on the horizon. this year. Villa Zarri 24 Year Old “K&L Exclusive” Single Barrel Cask “Yes, I actually think it tastes better that way,” he replied, almost as if Strength Italian Brandy ($99.99) Nestled in the hills of Emilia- he was embarrassed by that admission. Romagna is the Villa Zarri distillery, a small production run by Guido Zarri with a stunning portfolio of traditional Italian recipes and I laughed and reassured him: “So do a lot of other people.” impeccably aged brandies. The Cognac-style brandies are distilled Last month I decided to do a little survey with some of my most on an alembic pot still from Trebbiano (the Italian version of Ugni knowledgeable whisky customers. At a private dinner event, I poured Blanc, same as Cognac) and aged in French Limousin oak for at least each person a small glass of the 1991 Villa Zarri K&L single cask from 10 years. They are unadulterated, have no added caramel or sugar, an advance sample I had received from Guido, then I bid everyone and are like fuller, richer, more interesting versions of their French adieu. The next morning I had multiple emails from these guys asking cousins. I was absolutely smitten with the 10- and me just what in the hell they had tasted that evening. Most of them 21-year-old brandies the first time I tasted them, were shocked to discover it was brandy. All of them were stunned so much so that I immediately requested barrel that it had been distilled in Italy. It was when I told them the potential samples to hopefully purchase older, higher price that the excitement really got going. I was hoping to sell it for proof selections directly for K&L in the future. just under a hundred bucks. Guido was excited about working with us on Emilia-Romagna is a beautiful place. Located just north of Bologna, a project and provided us with an incred- the Villa Zarri estate is set in between rolling hills of green. The ible 1991 vintage 24-year-old brandy at cask property itself dates back to 1578 and has hosted scores of parties, strength, combining the richness and the concerts, exhibits and events over those many centuries, but distilla- finesse of great Cognac with the power and tion at the site is a rather recent development in context. Everything depth of a finesingle malt Scotch. It’s not Guido Zarri does in the distillery is exactly as is done in the only one of the best brandies I’ve ever tasted, Charentes: the grapes are the same variety, the stills are the same it’s one of the most reasonably priced spirits shape and size, and the strength of the spirit comes off just over 70%, I’ve ever tasted for the quality involved. At as it does in Cognac. It’s in the barrel room, however, that Guido nearly 60% ABV, there’s a lot of heat, so a changes direction. Rather than age his brandies in used Limousin drop or two of water really helps open up the oak, he starts each distillate off in new oak casks to impart color and fruit. Underneath all that power is plenty of intensity before transferring them into refill barrels over time. He also rich vanilla, sweet oak, lush stone fruit and does not top up the barrels to prevent evaporation, instead choosing to Cognac-like finesse, but without all the sticky transfer the brandies into fewer and fewer barrels as they begin to lose additives. What you get here is almost like a volume. The result is a richer, darker and more oak-influenced spirit, Glenmorangie version of brandy.

Online auctions are LIVE at KLWines.com 9 And a Barrel (Or Two) of Rum By David Othenin-Girard

For more than the 10 years that I’ve been in this industry, the rum category has been the “next big thing.” There have been some successes, some great products sold, but honestly that prediction has never come to fruition. While other brown spirits like bourbon, Scotch and tequila have soared in popularity, rum has remained relatively less explosive. Sure, there’s a vibrant tiki culture and a huge amount of very fine rum available, but the category follows the leader, and right now it’s walking in circles.

I won’t dive further into that hornets’ nest here, but the way to break out of the cycle is to find and present world-class products that just happen to be rum. Instead of pigeonholing a category, we need to bring you rum that transcends the ubiquitous, syrupy sweet style and present a picture of rum that’s completely new and fresh. We’re lucky in that respect because while traipsing through warehouses in Scotland, we occasionally stumble across a barrel that looks starkly different from the others. We always taste the rum when it’s there. The very best become Faultline, and we ask local artists to design labels for us.

After a few years of not being able to offer any rum under the Faultline label, we’re excited to announce the arrival of two very special casks from one of our partners in Scotland that we believe will change your mind about rum forever.

Faultline 15 Year Old “K&L Exclusive” Nicaraguan Single Barrel Rum ($59.99) This monstrous little cask comes from a distillery, located outside of Chichigalpa on the western coast of Nicaragua, that is widely considered to be one of the finest Spanish-style distilleries Faultline 17 Year Old “K&L Exclusive” Caribbean Blend Single outside of Cuba. In fact, many have speculated that this distillery is Barrel Rum ($79.99) This is Caribbean rum in the Spanish style. We responsible for much of the expansion of Cuba’s rum exports, due cannot confirm the source, but it’s absolutely delicious. In fact, I have to the stark similarities in style and unprecedented growth in that been unable to confirm any details of this rum other than that it comes category. Regardless, we never see this stuff as a single cask, high proof, from the Caribbean and it was distilled in 1998. The flavor profile unadulterated product, and this does remind me of the most old-school is very much in the old-school, drier style. A big dusty mineral note Spanish styles I can remember. Big nose of fudge, caramel, sweet earth, framed by tropical pineapple, overripe banana and powerful baking slight barnyard and fresh cut wood. After some time, more coffee and spice. On the palate, fresh grassy cane, touches of mint and anise, darker fruit flavors. On the palate, it shows great richness with a tiny bit and dried fruit. This is a totally heady and unique style that won’t be of rum funk to balance out the elegant, sweet, dark flavors. available anywhere else.

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