Go Your Own Way NEW YORK — with More Than 20 Years in the Business, Jerome Jessup Is Starting from Scratch
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WWDMILESTONES: GUESS AT 25/SECTION II WWDWomen’s Wear Daily •WEDNESDAY The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • April 18, 2007 • $2.00 Sportswear Go Your Own Way NEW YORK — With more than 20 years in the business, Jerome Jessup is starting from scratch. The former executive vice president of design for Gap Inc. and Ann Taylor is launching his own line, Jessup, for fall. “I have something different to say,” he notes of going solo after such high-profi le gigs. “It’s about creating a brand, becoming known for certain things.” If he has his way, Jessup will be identifi able by its classic looks jazzed up with quirks of detail, like the ruffl ed jabot on this silk cotton jersey top worn with a silk skirt and Hogan shoes. For more on Jessup and other new labels, see pages 6 and 7. California Dreamin’: AYTE ALLENDE AYTE Bloomingdale’s Lands In South Coast Plaza By David Moin loomingdale’s is finally opening in BSouth Coast Plaza and has created a showcase it promises will stand out in a crowded, competitive landscape. The unit is the upscale department store’s second major assault on California in six months; it opened a downtown San Francisco flagship in September. With a facade that glows at night, two four-star restaurants and an impressive array of designer shops and vendors, the retailer’s 291,000-square-foot, three-level unit in South Coast Plaza is expected to generate $80 million to See Bloomingdale’s, Page13 PHOTO BY PASHA ANTONOV; MODEL: MIA ROSING/TRUMP; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY JUSTIN ST. CLAIRE FOR AARTIST LOFT USING JOICO; STYLED BY M USING JOICO; STYLED BY LOFT CLAIRE FOR AARTIST JUSTIN ST. MODEL: MIA ROSING/TRUMP; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY ANTONOV; PASHA PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, APRIL 18, 2007 WWD.COM Gap Design Edition Bows Across U.S. WWDWEDNESDAY was that the clothes are cut large. Small sizes were By WWD Staff Sportswear in limited supply at some stores. On the Web site, here appeared to be little fevered frenzy over the Doo.Ri pleated shirt and belted dress, Thakoon Tthe launch of Gap Design Edition on Tuesday, petal-skirt dress and Rodarte trapeze shirt and FASHION but company executives were nonetheless pleased bow-pocket dress were sold out in sizes extra small A new crop of designers is popping up for fall, delivering a dose of with consumer reaction to the collection, which is and small. The Rodarte bow blouse was sold out in 6 eclecticism, embellishment and edginess. being sold in 100 stores nationwide. sizes 0 though 10. The spokeswoman said that sizing “We’ve had a pretty amazing customer response for Design Edition is true to the regular Gap sizing. to the collection,” said a Gap spokeswoman, refer- Meanwhile, the Gap store on the corner of GENERAL ring to the limited edition takes on Gap’s iconic crisp Broadway and 42nd Street featured the black-and- Bloomingdale’s is fi nally opening in South Coast Plaza and has created a white shirts by Doo-Ri Chung, Thakoon Panichgul white ad images on its exterior, as well as a large 1 showcase to stand out in a crowded, competitive landscape. and Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy. “Several print of Vogue’s May cover with 10 emerging models The launch of Gap Design Edition failed to ignite the frenzy of other of our stores have pretty much been a mob scene in pieces from the limited edition collection. Three 2 designer collaborations, but did generate some interest from shoppers. today, including [in Manhattan] 18th Street and vignettes of mannequins in the white clothes wel- Fifth Avenue, 42nd Street and Broadway and Fifth comed shoppers on the main fl oor, and the line was Five more retailers have revealed the compensation packages of their Avenue and 54th Street. Women sold on three racks in a central 2 top executives in fi lings with the Securities and Exchange Commission. An ad for Gap’s Design Edition. were peeling the shirts off the area in the women’s depart- Generra has struck a licensing deal with Mitsubishi and Sanyo to mannequins, trying to get the last ment on the second fl oor. At 8 produce and distribute Generra apparel and accessories in Japan. sizes, which is pretty exciting for lunchtime, the store was rela- us. I heard customers were head- tively quiet, and only about 10 MAINSTREAM: A cool start to spring is helping sell sweaters and heavy ing to stores further uptown to try women were rifling through 10 rains have spurred interest in novelty trenchcoats. to get away from the crowds.” the Gap Design Edition racks. Second-half revenues at Burberry rose 19.3 percent, to $886 million, on Design Edition is available in a A sales associate said there strong demand for spring runway looks, outerwear and handbags. majority of Gap’s Manhattan units. was a defi nite interest in the 12 The men’s area of the Gap pieces across the board, though Retail prices on women’s apparel fell 2.3 percent in March, but were up unit on the corner of 59th Street Doo.Ri’s designs appeared to 14 1.2 percent from a year ago, according to the Consumer Price Index. and Lexington Avenue was quiet be selling slightly better than Rep. Charles Rangel said Democrats were prepared to extend a restricted and women’s, on the second fl oor, the rest. fast track authority to President Bush to negotiate a Doha accord. was only slightly busier. Several Joyann King, 24, who works 16 racks of all-white Design Edition for Glamour magazine, bought WEST: Vendors and buyers at the Los Angeles Majors Market predicted merchandise were featured at the all but three pieces from the 17 wide-leg jeans in trouser and fi ve-pocket models would be hot for fall. top of the landing fl anked by large entire Design Edition line. black-and-white images of the de- King said all three designers Obituaries..........................................................................................16 signers with models. A trio of sales offered great staples, but high- Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................18-23 associates hovered around the lighted Thakoon for offering display, waiting for customers. particularly beautiful pieces. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. “I think it’s nice when a design- “I tried on everything and it’s [email protected], using the individual’s name. er takes risks,” said Sarah Ecton, amazing,” she said. “The col- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT an administrative assistant, who left empty-handed. lection is beautiful, but it does run big.” ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. “Some of the pieces I liked, but some I felt were Kristine Ocampo, 34, said she was familiar VOLUME 193, NO. 82. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one very constructed for streetwear. I don’t know about with the three designers and defi nitely considered additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three some of the necklines. Today, I was just looking.” them the draw for the collection. “The styling is additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Vivienne Nakash, who reports on fashion trends great and the price points are not too high,” she Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive at retail for a hedge fund, was taking photos of said. “And the quality is not so bad either.” Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Design Edition displays in the windows. The hedge The collection retails from $68 to $88. Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail fund wants to keep Gap’s latest developments The Gap at the Hollywood & Highland Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return on its radar, she said. Despite being on the job, shopping center in Los Angeles is sell- undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: Nakash bought the petal-skirt dress and tie shirt ing Design Edition items by Thakoon, SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA by Thakoon and the bow-pocket dress by Rodarte. Doo.Ri and Rodarte, but an hour after opening, a 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE “Everything looks kind of similar, so how much are sales associate said no one has specifi cally asked INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit you going to buy?” she said. “I never buy anything for the limited edition pieces. “But it’s too soon to www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new at the Gap. I go to H&M. It’s a lot more fashion-for- tell how well it’s selling,” he said. subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017.